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Reelin’ in the Years
MY GOOD NEIGHBORHOOD
friend growing up became an anesthesiologist. Early on in his medical career, as a member of the U.S. Army, he served on a base during the Bosnian War. He also spent part of his residency working in an emergency room in Chicago, which he said felt like being in a combat zone on many nights. We call each other on our summer birthdays, and I remember the one when I turned 30—the age at which “I could no longer be trusted by those younger than me.” I wasn’t thrilled about this mile stone. He, being two years older and a lot smarter, snapped me out of my funk instantly. He said, “Be happy you made it to another year.” His work and his time in the war had shown him that far too many people don’t get to celebrate their 30th. That sentiment has stuck with me every birthday since.
end is the Maine family chain Lamey Wellehan, clocking in at 110 years, and Birkenstock shattering the longevity expectancy ceiling at 250 years! In the middle is our Lifetime Achievement recipient, Tarek Hassan, founder and CEO of CNCPTS. He launched the revolutionary sneaker-meets-streetwear-meets-luxury chain nearly 29 years ago (not a round number, I know), but his career in retail and branding spans 40 years.
All of our Plus Awards Milestone recipients are trailblazers. Zappos (p. 22) invented online shoe shopping. Birkenstock (p. 28) invented comfort footwear and, according to some sole historians, right and left shoes. Lamey Wellehan (p. 31) didn’t invent the family shoe store sit-and-fit format, but it sure has perfected it over its century-plus in business and set an example on how community engagement breeds generations of customer loyalty. Fly London (p. 34) didn’t invent the wedge or a lot of other styles in its line of men’s and women’s edgy comfort collections, but its steadfast commitment to making comfort cool season after season has generated a lot of buzz (pun intended), and its irreverent marketing has transformed a pest into a powerful brand mascot.
Which brings me (naturally) to some opinions on aging from Springsteen. When Bruce turned 30, he received a birthday cake during a performance at Madison Square Garden. Apparently, he wasn’t thrilled about the milestone, either. He threw the cake into the crowd and sneered, “Send me the cleaning bill!” Decades later, however, when asked how he felt about turning 70, his sentiments on aging were quite different. He seemed at peace with the process. He said, “You’re gathering.” So, it’s drag getting old. In other words, you gain as you age. Experience. Wisdom. Memories. Life. You don’t just lose (hair, hearing, health, etc.). That has stuck with me, too. Each year is a new milestone to be celebrated. I I die before I get old.
We humans, though, do like making more of a fuss over birth days when they’re multiples of 10 and 25. Our 25th anniversary of the Plus Awards, celebrating excellence in design and retail, is no exception. In recognition of our silver anniversary, this special issue features five milestone profiles across a wide age spectrum. On the younger end, there’s Zappos marking its 25th anniversary, followed by Fly London hitting the Big 3-0. And at the opposite
As for Hassan ( p. 12 ), he is one of the OGs of the sneaker boutique format and the multi-billion collab market. He is also widely regarded as the first to combine the worlds of sneakers, streetwear, and luxury under one store format. His list of industry firsts run deep.
Above all, Hassan is a curator of cool. I’m talking cool like LL Cool J meets Johnny Depp meets Tom Ford. CNCPTS serves as a mecca for coolness, and Hassan is its Axl Rose–like frontman.
I hope you enjoy reading these Plus Awards Milestone profiles as much as our team enjoyed writing them. ShoutNew York Times best-selling author Kathy Passero (Birkenstock and Zappos), Footwear Plus alum and Maine native Petra Guglielmetti (Lamey Wellehan), and our up-and-coming reporter Kiernan McCormick (Fly London). Having written about Hassan since he launched CNCPTS in 1996, that profile is mine—along with any opportunities to visit the inner workings of CNCPTS HQ and hang out with the “cool kids.” That’s a backstage pass I’d never pass up.
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
Socks Rock!
Ankle to knee-high, sporty to sheer, that other accessory is having a moment. Photography by Marcy Swingle
A PERFECT PAIR
CONGRATULATIONS TO ZAPPOS FOR 25 YEARS
We’re honored to be partners with the company that’s been innovating the online shoe-shopping experience for a quarter century. Here’s to the next 25 years.
NEW Men’s & Women’s
Camino Walker
Where the Buyers Are
The Atlanta Shoe Market draws record attendance.
THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET (TASM) has been on a roll post-pandemic, consistently racking up biggest-show-ever stats in terms of exhibitor and retailer attendance. A few peeks into appointment books were proof that buyers were at the Cobb Galleria Centre in force, across all tiers, and from all corners of the country as well as from abroad.
“This is definitely the most retailers we’ve seen at this show in many years,” confirms Laura Conwell O’Brien, executive director, noting attendance was up nearly nine percent and exhibitor attendance was up 24 percent. “Many are asking that we expand to a fourth day.” (Extended hours are being considered for the Feb. 15-17, 2025, edition.)
At 1,100 exhibitors and 1,800 lines, give or take a few, there was plenty to see across the industry spectrum. It’s why Peter Hanig, owner of Hanig’s Footwear in Chicago, was making the rounds. He’s always on the hunt for the next big thing. “This show brings in the most new vendors,” he says. “We saw some really interesting technologies and more experimental fashion concepts while there were too many sneaker copycats and sandals with the same bases.” But the good outweighed the bad for the retailer celebrating its 80th anniversary. “We reviewed spring lines with current vendors and sought out new vendors with interesting ideas,” Hanig says, adding, “Innovation moves our industry forward.”
John Daher, owner of Shoebox and Co. in Kennebunkport, ME, was also on the prowl for brands and styles not sold everywhere else. He was also looking to flush out his current comfortmeets-cool merchandise mix. Booth stops included All Black, Rieker, Back 70, and Fly London, among others. “You have to keep digging,” he says. “There’s unique brands and shoes out there.”
One such quirky brand is 4CCCCEES. Founded in 2019 by Sang-Min Park, former head designer of United Nude, the brand premise is confidence, comfort, contemporary, and curiosity (four Cs). Buyers took notice, says Art Abenoza, U.S. sales agent. “Atlanta was a whirlwind! Traffic stayed super busy all weekend,” he says. “We saw over 60 retailers, including Free People and Nordstrom.” Abenoza says metallics did well, as did tonals and tan shades. “Our S/S ’25 collection has some bright pops of color as well, especially greens and pinks.”
Rick Rask, president, Rieker Shoe Corp., was equally impressed by the breadth and quality of buyers that were at TASM. The appointment books for Rieker and Remonte were packed with quality, quantity, and consistency of retailers that Rask considers “unpar-
alleled.” That clientele gravitated to lifestyle hybrid sneakers and unique sandal wedges with adjustability in multi-color and material combinations.
TJ Kelly, senior director of U.S. Sales for Birkenstock, was similarly proud of its jam-packed appointment book. “We had about 130 appointments—even the last day we were booked straight through,” he reports.
“And while we’d prefer TASM is held a couple of weeks earlier for production reasons, it’s still very important.” Kelly notes a general sense of optimism among buyers, despite the uncertainty surrounding the election, the economy, and wars in Europe and the Middle East. “Our business is solid,” he says.
“We’re a reliable partner, and we continue to deliver fresh collections that sell through.”
Bruce Kaplan, chief revenue officer for Impo Intl., reports a similar upbeat vibe despite the headwinds.
“The traffic and energy were amazing, almost nostalgic of the old WSA Show days. I saw major players from virtually every channel of distribution,” he says. Kaplan reports a strong reaction to Impo’s dress offerings. (Might the sneaker trend finally be peaking?) “In each category, buyers were carefully carving out significant space and budget to this group,” he says. Another bright spot: stretch sandals. “We’re known as ‘the house of stretch,’ and our sandals and wedges should serve our customers well for the upcoming season,” he says. As for Kaplan’s biggest show takeaway, it’s seeing what TASM has become. “Laura, Justine and their team have turned other shows on their heels. The attendance, value, ease of movement, and all the amenities offered are top notch.”
Sam Spears, president of Ara North America, offers similar praise for TASM. “I didn’t leave our booth once during business hours the entire three days,” he says. “We had a record number of ‘shoes on table’ meetings.” And while Spears heard murmurs that the aisles weren’t as bustling as usual, he reasons that TASM’s expansion spread the crowd out. “It was an extraordinary show, and if the casino night party was any way to judge attendance, I’d say it was way up,” he says. “That party was hopping!”
On the business side, Spears singles out the strong response to Ara’s new Mariana technical walking shoe. The high-performance shoe was developed with the German Sport University Cologne over 18 months and has received Germany’s equivalent of the APMA seal of approval. “There’s so much technology in this shoe from the fall/gait motion to the instability/core muscle group activation. But retailers are also buying
From top: Black Star; Gabor, Rieker; Mjuss, Twisted X.
it because it looks fantastic,” he says, noting that the orchid/royal/kiwi/ white/silver combo was on almost every order.
The Woolloomooloo booth was hopping, too, says CEO James Rowley. “The quality of traffic was great,” he says, citing a strong interest in color. “This remains our No. 1 show in the country by a long shot, including from an ROI perspective.”
Most execs interviewed say buyers came to buy. The prevailing mood was optimistic. Despite a cold and wet spring for large swaths of the country and the aforementioned headwinds, retailers keep marching forward. “While there’s so much going on in the world that makes you want to curl up in a ball and hide, the independent retailer, in particular, is a fighter, visionary, and take names dynamo,” Spears says. “They understand long-term planning, business cycles, and the need to invest. They aren’t reactionary, and their resiliency and can-do attitude are my biggest takeaways from this show.”
Optimism was the prevailing mood at the Ecco booth, too, reports Matt Thibeau, channel director. “We didn’t sense the same trepidation about the election’s commercial impact that we have in past cycles,” he reports. “Retailers were optimistically looking for new trends and less patient to accept another season of color-ups on existing styles. That’s a good sign for the industry.” Show highlights included Ecco’s new Offroad Roam sandal and updates in the Biom program. “Both speak to the heritage of the brand with new modern styling,” Thibeau says. “The reaction to our S/S ’25 collection emboldens us to continue to innovate, add color, and push styling envelopes.”
It’s all music to Conwell O’Brien’s ears. “I just love sitting back and watching exhibitors and buyers engage and feeling the positive energy that radiates our industry’s vibrancy,” she says. “Attendees left with a sense of excitement, gaining new insights, connections, and inspiration. That’s what TASM is all about.”
Meet Mykos
Lâmo rebrands to reflect the year-round business it has become.
WHAT’S IN A is name? For Lâmo Sheepskin, Inc., founded in 1995, it’s everything and why the company has rebranded to Mykos (pronounced “meekos”). Its origins as a seasonal-driven sheepskin boot and slipper brand have evolved to include sandals, sneakers, slip-ons, and moccasins. The new name, along with the tag line, “Explore Comfort,” is designed to reflect that.
“We can explore a broader range of products with less constraints as long as it speaks to comfort,” says John Pierce, vice president of sales. “We’re no longer pigeonholed to ‘fur’ products being what the customer only expects from us. Those products will still be part of our mix, but we can do so much more.”
Mykos represents a fresh start, says Edna De Pamphilis, marketing director. And that, she adds, will involve much more than a name change. For example, the brand is introducing ARO (Advanced Response Outsole), a patent-pending comfort technology for S/S ’25. “The foam material is an injected phylon that’s more durable than standard EVA, and the heel pod is a semi-transparent TPU material that can absorb shock and provide energy return,” she says, adding that the rebranding starts a new chapter. “It allows for much more opportunity to experience something new from us and to be seasonless, while continuing to invest in an enhanced comfort story.”
After 29 years as Lâmo, the decision to rebrand wasn’t made on a whim. Pierce says internal discussions began about six months ago and were driven by how to become a year-round business. For starters, the sheep icon made it difficult to view sandals and canvas shoes as part of the brand DNA. That had to get the flock out of here, so to speak. Then the team tossed around several names, conducted focus groups, did internal surveys, and finally settled on Mykos. “The new name adds a level of sophistication and uniqueness,” he says. “It allows us to elevate the experience for retailers and consumers.”
While there’s always risks with change, Pierce believes Mykos essentially represents a blank canvas to build new products with or without fur linings while maintaining affordable price points at a great quality and value. Internally, it also aligns well with the recent appointments of Head Designer Kamaria Davis, formerly of K-Swiss and Chinese Laundry, and Todd Bennett as creative director, who spent the past 15 years in a similar role at Bearpaw. “We’re committed to hiring the best in the industry and doing whatever is necessary to continue building a successful brand and business,” Pierce says. “Plus, we’ll celebrate our 30th anniversary next year while creating excitement around our new name.”
From top, left to right: All Black, Clarks, Dingo, Jambu, Samuel Hubbard, Popa.
IR Show Beats the Odds
The move to Las Vegas proves to be a good bet.
THE IR SHOW had to roll the dice on moving its summer edition from San Diego due to that city’s Comic Con takeover in late July. A handful of destinations were discussed of which Las Vegas won out. First, there was the nostalgia factor of a “shoe show” returning to the heydays of the WSA Show in Sin City. More importantly, there was the greater number of direct flights, affordable hotels, and plenty of entertainment options. Vegas was a good bet.
“The move was very positive,” reports Gary Hauss, show director, noting that the IR Show will return to Las Vegas July 22-24, 2025, following its Jan. 22-24 show in San Diego. “That’s because of Vegas as a draw as well as the increased traction we’re getting.”
The deck, though, seemed stacked against IR at first. The day before the show started a massive truck accident left motorists stranded in the desert (literally) on the main artery from Los Angeles. It turned a four- to five-hour drive into a 14- to 16-hour odyssey. “Despite the universe being against us with that accident, we were thrilled with the increase in show traffic,” Hauss says. “Many reps said it was their best IR Show yet, and we’ve since received numerous calls, texts, and emails from both retailers and wholesalers saying they’re thrilled with the growth of the show.”
Josh Habre, distributor of Django & Juliette and Ziera, is one such satisfied exhibitor. “We opened 10 new accounts, and our existing accounts added a significant number of SKUs,” he reports. Fun uppers, cheerful colors, and transitional styles received a strong reaction.
Traffic was also on the upswing at Mykos (formerly Lâmo). John Pierce, vice president of sales, says it was better than previous IR shows. “There were many great retailers from a wide range of the country,” he notes. “We met with potential new customers as well as with many existing ones.” In addition to unveiling a new name, Mykos debuted ARO (advanced response outsole), a patent-pending comfort technology, and a cork footbed collection featuring fun colors and upper materials. “The reaction was solid,” Pierce says, adding, “They’re excited to see what’s next for additional opportunities.”
Bill Langrell, COO of Taos Footwear, says
IR surpassed expectations, adding that Vegas is the best venue for long-term success of the show. “The show was very good for us, and much better than we expected,” he reports. “We were surprised by how many walk-ins we had, and our reps did a great job of booking appointments.” Lifestyle sandals and leather and canvas cup sole sneakers received a strong response. “Our Active/Outdoor package that includes waterfriendly sandals and outdoor-inspired casuals were also well received,” Langrell says, adding that the general mood among buyers was “very optimistic and upbeat.”
Retailers were in good spirits, even with business in June and July tough, concurs Rusty Hall, CEO of Mephisto USA. “Most feel the upcoming election and economy are holding customers back, plus a wet, cool spring has made business challenging,” he says. “But we were surprised by how positive most retailers were.” Hall says traffic was steady and buyers reacted well to new women’s styles like the Leandre, Hariana, and Foline sandals—all with strong buckle stories—and the Witney and Walie low-profile sneakers.
Newcomer Soleni Shoes, a fashionable orthopedic brand, rolled the dice on IR, and while Founder Lindsey Carmichael says passerby traffic was a challenge (her edge aisle location didn’t help), the networking was invaluable. “I knew one person going into this show, and ended with many names, numbers, and introductions,” she says. “Plus, I had positive feedback on my line; I’m learning that my personal story is a key aspect.”
Carmichael, a former athlete and orthopedic physician assistant, developed the collection to alleviate common foot-related ailments minus the fuddy-duddy aesthetics.
“Organic browns, mustard, and black from my fall collection got a nice response, as did a loafer featuring bright pinks and greens for S/S ’25.”
Django & Juliette, DK by Fluchos, Propét, Soleni, Haflinger, Wonders.
THE REAL TEAL
The soothing tropical tone surfaces.
Gola
Revolutionary retailer and brand whisperer Tarek Hassan, founder and CEO of CNCPTS, |has spent his 40-year career looking into the future to introduce cutting-edge shopping formats, legendary collabs, and trajectory-changing branding expertise. His quest to imagine, innovate, and inspire is relentless. By
Greg Dutter
VISION QUEST T
HE BURTON SNOWBOARD reps thought Tarek Hassan was nuts—at first. It was 1996 when the early twentysomething, had reached out to the Vermont-based company to visit his new retail concept (fittingly dubbed CNCPTS and pronounced as Concepts), housed inside The Tannery in Cambridge’s, Harvard Square. It’s where Hassan and his brother worked since arriving in the United States about a decade earlier from war-torn Lebanon. Hassan desperately wanted to add the hottest snowboarding brand to CNCPTS’ eclectic mix of skate, snowboard, streetwear, and luxury brands, but he had some major hurdles to overcome—starting with getting the reps to agree to visit his store-within-a-store.
As shoe industry lore goes, Hassan arranged a meeting for the reps to see the new, 500-square-foot space which was located all the way in the back of the 10,000-squarefoot store located below street level. To experience this space, one would have to meander through a maze of brown shoes from the likes of Dansko, Rockport, Ecco, Clarks, and Mephisto, to name a few. In fact, The Tannery was so antithetical to Burton’s edgy snowboard vibe that the reps did a 180 and left. They dismissed the store as a place that the parents of Burton’s target audience were
likely to shop. “They literally made it halfway through and headed back out,” Hassan recalls, admitting to a brief crisis of confidence. “The first thoughts that came to my mind were, ‘This was a huge mistake! What in the hell was I thinking?’”
Hassan, though, quickly regrouped. He believed in his vision and he was determined to have the reps experience CNCPTS the way he intended. He wanted them to become immersed in the vibe and format he had worked so diligently to create. Above all, he hoped they might see what he envisioned—a revolutionary retail “concept” that Hassan believed would attract legions of trend-setting consumers. Back then, if you wanted to buy a snowboard or skateboard, you went to a ski, skate, or sporting goods store. To purchase luxury brands, you went to specialty boutiques, chains, and flagships. CNCPTS was a first, and a testament to Hassan’s visionary approach.
Flash forward to today and Hassan’s vision has been realized. Over the past 30 years, CNCPTS outgrew its repurposed stockroom space and has become a worldwide retail chain with locations in Boston, New York, Dubai, Shanghai, Beijing, and, in fall 2025, Riyadh, Saudia Arabia, not to mention its booming online business. Along the way, Hassan achieved his dream of building a standalone brand widely lauded as a purveyor of cool. CNCPTS has helped trailblaze the sneaker boutique channel. It has been at the forefront of the collab craze, transformed sneaker drops into rock concert–like events, and helped fuel a resale market where coveted styles go for thousands of dollars. The brand has also introduced groundbreaking retail concepts—like pop-up shops built
Tarek Hassan
“When I joined BIRKENSTOCK in 2013, Tarek was one of the first partners I called. He saw in BIRKENSTOCK exactly what I did. A one-of-a-kind brand with iconic styles that were ripe to have new creative energy breathed into them. These Boston clogs from years ago are a great example of our partnership and helped plant the seed for what the Boston has since become in the industry. On behalf of our entire team, we congratulate Tarek, a true visionary and a dear friend, on this much-deserved Lifetime Achievement Award.”
DAVID KAHAN PRESIDENT / BIRKENSTOCK AMERICAS
Clockwise from top: Birkenstock Boston Felt, CNCPTS NYC; Nike SB Dunk Low/CNCPTS Red Lobster and packaging; Asics Gel-Lyte III Boston Tea Party on display in CNCPTS New York pop-up store.
entirely around a specific collab and a co-curated Adidas/CNCPTS boutique in Boston. CNCPTS has also introduced and helped establish brands that have come to define what is now a macro sneakermeets-streetwear-meets-luxury movement. Hassan is one of the godfathers of this entire culture, a culture he sensed was coming in the mid-’90s. He was not nuts.
“CNCPTS was one of the first independent sneaker boutiques. But even more important, Tarek was the first to bring a luxury mentality to the category,” says David Kahan, president of Birkenstock Americas. “He brought a level of innovation and storytelling no one else has.”
Bob Mullaney, CEO of RG Barry Brands and fellow New England shoe mafia capo, singles out Hassan’s relentless drive to be at the tip of the spear, all while making it look effortless. “He epitomizes cool and sees the future while making it look easy, which it isn’t,” he says. “Tarek moves forward with organic consumer research and doesn’t pay homage to yesteryear. His authentic passion, competitiveness, and willingness to take risks in his work stand out.”
Indeed, CNCPTS has come a long way, driven by Hassan’s relentless quest to push boundaries and serve as a curator, tastemaker, and confidant
for generations of discerning customers who look to the brand for what’s next. As for those Burton reps, Hassan convinced them to take a closer look at CNCPTS and they came away impressed. The store began carrying the brand’s snowboards a few months later. Hassan’s vision and determination paid off that day—as it has ever since.
Scott Schaefer, CEO of Zappos, an investor in CNCPTS as of 2018, says Hassan defines the streetwear/luxury culture. For him, it’s not just a profession but a passion. “Tarek is unique in terms of being the whole package as a retailer,” he says. “He’s got both business and brand savvy, is always a step ahead of what’s next, and his intuition is spot on when it comes to his brand’s best interests.”
Schaefer adds, “Tarek has great insights, relationships, and overall style that can’t be replicated. He’s been a great partner in all aspects of our two brands’ relationship.”
Hassan appreciates the accolades, but that’s not
why he’s in this game. Back in 1994, when Tarek first took up snowboarding, he fell in love with the culture. He desperately wanted in. Becoming a professional snowboarder wasn’t a likely option. But his retail and branding skills could give him access to this exciting world. To paraphrase the tagline of one of CNCPTS’ longtime collab partners, Tarek just did it. “When you believe in something and you have a vision, you go for it,” Hassan says. “And while the odds of succeeding back then were very small, I believed in myself. I was super-passionate about it all and I knew I’d do anything to make it work. And nothing’s changed as I’m the exact same way today.”
BORN THIS WAY
One might assume that Hassan is a born merchant. His love for retail, brand building, product, and consumer research seems baked into his DNA. It’s who he is and what he does 24-7. He’s constantly
“(RIYADH) IS AN UP-ANDCOMING CITY, AND THERE’S A HUGE FOLLOWING IN SNEAKERS AND STREETWEAR CULTURE.”
—TAREK HASSAN
learning, adapting, evolving, planning, dreaming, risking, and seeking to break new ground in footwear and fashion retailing and brand building.
That said, Hassan had no visions of becoming a retailer while growing up in Beirut. It was the early ’80s and he was a typical teenager, playing goalkeeper for his local soccer team and attending school. What wasn’t typical, though, was his daily struggle to survive. “The only thing I did know is that I wanted out of Lebanon and away from a raging Civil War,” he says.
Fortunately, Hassan had family living in Belgium and Boston. His first stop, at age 15, was Europe. He stayed for a brief period with his family. He then obtained a U.S. visa and moved to Boston to live with his brother, Talal, who had moved there a couple of years earlier and was working at The Tannery, then a two-store business. The day Hassan set foot on American soil his retail career began. Basically, he landed in a shoe store.
“I remember being picked up from the airport and driving straight to the store where my brother was working.” Hassan says. “Forty-five minutes in America and I was standing behind a cash wrap, learning the ropes of retail.”
The fact that Hassan only spoke French and Arabic at the time was just one of many hurdles he’d overcome as he took on more responsibilities in the store. For example, there was the three-month intensive English course he enrolled in at Boston University. On his lunch breaks, he’d take the train back to the store located on Boylston Street to help with the mid-day rush. “This was the pre-online era; our store would be jam packed with customers pouring in on their lunch breaks,” he says.
Hassan went on to finish high school and then enrolled in college, all while working at the shop as much as possible. A trip to the FFANY show in New York is when Hassan officially caught the shoe bug. “I fell in love with the showrooms, the product, the branding, engaging with the energy of the business…I wanted to be part of it all,” he says. “I knew 100 percent then that this was my passion.”
Around this time, Hassan began doing deep dives into various shoe brands. He learned everything he could about their histories, approaches to design, and branding strategies. He also pondered on what he might do different. “I became obsessed with the entire business,” he says. “I felt like I could make a meaningful difference with some brands, and that’s when I realized I wanted to have my own brand and stores one day.”
THE SALAD DAYS
First up: shop-in-shops, which The Tannery introduced in the late ’80s and were a first of its kind in independent shoe retailing. Hassan wanted to make shopping experiential and not just transactional by conveying individual brand stories in an immersive and exclusive way. “Before that, it was just showing product generically; there was no emotion between the brands and the customers,” he says. “We created tailored experiences for each brand.” The shops were a huge hit. The brands and customers
Hit Parade
The roster of CNCPTS collabs is deep and all-star worthy
IN 2006, CNCPTS was one of a few select sneaker boutiques invited to take on New Balance’s Super Team 33 retro jogger—their first collaboration as a brand. It was a real dud.
“It wasn’t our best shoe, for sure,” says CNCPTS Creative Director Deon Point. “It was humbling; we could have done a lot better.”
That first swing (and miss) was a great learning experience, though. It only made the team hungrier to knock it out of the park on the next chance. And, boy, did it ever with the 2008 Nike SB Dunk Low/CNCPTS Red Lobster, considered by many sneaker purists to be one of the greatest collabs ever. (That version in original packaging is priced at $12,000 on StockX; a follow-up Yellow version, of which only 44 pairs were made, was recently priced at $85,000.)
Success, though, wasn’t preordained. The pressure was on the CNCPTS team to prove it had the creative muscle to make a meaningful collab so leading brands would partner with them going forward. Rather than just design a shoe that fused luxury, Boston, and streetwear, Hassan raised the bar with lobster trapthemed packaging complete with claw cracker, fork, bib, and rubber bands around the toe boxes. They also put the word out about an impending sneaker drop, which led to hundreds of kids camping out in front of the store for days waiting to buy this yet unseen shoe. The buzz grew to a boil. This was no longer just a sneaker. This was an event.
“Tarek loved the shoe, but said we had to do something else,” Point recalls. “I suggested a billboard. He came up with the packaging. No one was thinking along those lines back then. All the bells and whistles we put into that collab story left no stone unturned, and when it all came to fruition, it was a massive hit.”
“We lost money on the project, even though we sold out in seconds,” Hassan says. “But the story we created behind that shoe put us on the map. I knew that the world had to see this shoe. It wasn’t about the volume. We were making a statement about what CNCPTS could do.”
The Lobster series, now in its fifth iteration, did just that. The CNCPTS team has been knocking it out of the park on a regular basis for years. A few home runs include: Nike Kyrie 6 Khepri (2019) and Air Max 1 Far Out (2022), Asics Gel Respector Coca and 8-Ball (2015), Birkenstock Boston Felt (2013) and Kyoto City Connection (2023), Vans Old Skool Rat Hunter (2014), New Balance 997 Rosé (2014) and 999 Kennedy (2017), Mephisto Match (2017) and Apple (2019), Sorel Joan of Arctic (2009), Red Wing 8820 (2016), Timberland Black Epi Leather 6-inch (2009), and Sperry Dawn to Dusk (2024). CNCPTS has also collaborated with Canada Goose, Arc’teryx, and New
Era on coats, jackets, bags and hats respectively as well as teamed up with Burton on snowboards and Alien Workshop on skateboards. To date, the number of collabs is in the hundreds. But the team, headquartered on two floors on Boylston St., never rests on its laurels. The next collab and activation must be bigger, better, and bolder. The bar must be raised on creativity, uniqueness, and excitement every time. The overriding goal is to outdo itself to keep CNCPTS at the crest of the streetwear wave.
“What I learned the most from Tarek is that when it’s time to swing, we always swing big,” Point says. “We just keep trying to crack the piñata again and again to make the biggest statement for our brand, our partners, and our customers. It’s an insatiable appetite for finding what can we do next to shake the market up.” Adds Hassan, “It’s all about the next one. We never sit back and say we’re done. It’s about what we’re doing next; what can we do differently. CNCPTS as a brand never remains in place for too long.” —G.D.
Sperry Dawn to Dusk
Vans Old Skool Rat Hunter
Nike Kyrie 6 Khepri
Asics Gel Respector Coca
Nike Air Max 1 Far Out
Arc’teryx
Clarks Originals Past and Present
Canada Goose/ A Bathing Ape
Red Wing 8820
New Balance 999 Kennedy
loved them. The first was with Bass. Timberland, Reebok, Dan Post, Ecco, Birkenstock, Zodiac, Sebago, Rockport, and others followed. “At 10,000 square feet, we had the room to create beautiful shops, which we updated seasonally and as the brands evolved,” Hassan says. Sales spiked, too. “We saw a jump in success,” he says. “We were passionate about it, and we connected with customers on a much deeper level. It was way ahead of its time, and it also fed my vision to do so much more.”
Next up: Special Make-ups (SMUs), later known as collabs and now a multi-billion-dollar industry. This is when the young retailer began to make a name for himself. Hassan had a talent for transforming run-of-the-line styles into something special. First off, he did the homework. “I lived these brands, and I figured if I knew as much, or more than they did, I’d see something that they might have missed,” he explains, adding, “We came at the shoes with a different lens and understanding of what our customers wanted, and I loved figuring out ways these brands could break out of their comfort zones.”
These exclusive styles blew out of stores and would often rank as the brands’ top sellers for that season. In fact, they’d often create a halo effect, boosting sales of the entire brand. Meanwhile, Hassan relished his burgeoning role as brand whisperer. “It
came from a passion to create” he says.
Hassan understood the power of exclusivity and its power to create consumer demand. When Hassan debuted CNCPTS in 1996 it quickly became the busiest part of The Tannery. Hundreds of kids would wait in line to get first dibs on the latest collabs. “We carried exclusive styles, like Clarks Originals and Nike SB, just to cite a couple,” he says. “They were coming to find the color and/or silhouette that they couldn’t get anywhere else. That’s when I realized that CNCPTS could be its own brand.”
Word quickly spread beyond Boston. People came in from around the world looking for this store in the back of a traditional shoe store where they’d find sneakers, skateboards, snowboards, streetwear, and luxury items from brands like A Bathing Ape, Nike, Gucci, Prada, Canada, Goose, and New Balance. But Hassan didn’t just rely on word of mouth in those early years. He capitalized on Harvard Square’s appeal as a tourist destination, making deals with tour bus operators to drop off their busloads so they could shop the store. “It was an incredible amount of business; we became one of the largest dealers for Coach handbags in the country,” he says. The strategy also taught him about the shopping preferences of people from far beyond Boston. “I learned what brands they sought, what colors and styles they liked, how they
expected merchandise to be displayed, how they interacted with our staff, and what type of shopping experience they preferred.” Hassan adds, “I was on the floor every day and was experiencing every piece of the business. I did the marketing by handing out flyers on the sidewalk, I worked in the stockroom, I did the buying…I wanted to experience everything I could in order to create my own brand.”
Kahan considers Hassan in a class by himself as a retailer. “He has vision. Most retailers think day to day, week to week, even season to season,” he says. “Tarek thinks in terms of generational shifts in consumer interests and brings a creative energy and taste level unlike anyone else. Also, he has 100 percent trust from brands that everything he does will be respectful and maintain the highest equity of the brand. He won’t try to make it what it isn’t or shouldn’t be.”
Kahan cites the Birkenstock Americas division’s first-ever collab, the Birkenstock/CNCPTS Felt, released in late 2013, as an example. At the time, very few pairs of Boston clogs were sold in the U.S. It was considered a niche shoe. “The orange felt version sold out in a day and created buzz that still reverberates today,” Kahan says. “It’s hard to believe that 10 years before the Boston became so popular, Tarek had it as his key style. He planted the
>21
The unapologetically pink New Balance 997 Rosé/CNCPTS.
BLOOD BROTHERS
Tarek Hassan and Deon Point are a dream team.
THERE IS NO “i” in team. Atop most great business success stories there is a key figurehead (think Steve Jobs, Jack Welch, Tom Ford) and a team of talented people working underneath to help bring the vision to life. Oftentimes, this structure includes a consigliere—a right hand man for the leader to trust and ensure his directions get carried out. It’s that way at CNCPTS. Founder and CEO Tarek Hassan has Deon Point, creative director and 20-year veteran of the company, as his trusted lieutenant.
“I’m usually the voice of reason on expenses and will warn him if we’re in danger of losing money on a collab activation,” Point says. “Whereas Tarek is the one always pushing to take it to the next level, focused on the long-term benefits to the CNCPTS brand. We make a great team.”
Will Campbell, senior director of sales for Converse and previously with Nike, has collaborated with the CNCPTS team for 15 years and pinpoints the chain’s success to Tarek and the entire team. “Tarek is an industry icon, but his legacy is not simply the stores and products he’s
sold, it’s the people he has around him,” he says. “A great leader surrounds himself with a great team, and T has built a team of the best of the best.”
How the team of Hassan and Point came together only adds to the chemistry. Hassan hails from Beirut and Point from the gritty streets of Brockton, MA. Point, as a teen, made regular pilgrimages to Harlem to find the latest kicks. Meanwhile, Hassan was building out his destination sneakers-meets-streetwear-meets-luxury emporium. Point became a regular customer at CNCPTS in 2001. The two developed a bond over the latest streetwear trends.
Hassan would often hold sneakers for his preferred customer. Point finally ditched his construction gig to work full-time at CNCPTS.
Hassan can’t recall exactly when Point went fulltime. It just evolved organically. “We got along, we had similar tastes in fashion, and he understood the sneaker world very well,” he says.
Point says he and Hassan had a sit-down. While construction paid the bills and he was fortunate to be in the union, Point had a genuine passion
for sneakers and fashion. And he could learn a lot from Tarek about retailing, marketing, and branding.
“If I was changing out of filthy construction clothes and washing up in the back to work there part-time, clearly I liked something about this business,” Point says.
In the years since, the two have held a running discourse on what to do next and, whatever the decision, to make it a memorable one. Hassan and Point, the visionary and the streetwear purist, balance each other well. For example, when Hassan said CNCPTS was going to do a collab with Birkenstock in 2013, Point initially thought the idea was way off-brand. “We argued for a while like brothers do. I thought we’d get a ton of flak from our core customers,” he recalls. “But Tarek has that vision. He was way ahead on that trend. People just want comfortable shoes.”
Tecnica Moon boots was another example. In 2002, Hassan saw that classic boot as an ultimate statement in Italian ski luxury. But from Point’s perspective, it didn’t exist on the streets where he came from. Same goes for Ugg and Red Wing boots. Again, Hassan was ahead of the curve on what would become huge trends. “He’d wear it, then start selling it, and then everyone would be wearing it,” Point says. “I realized early on that Tarek really knew what he was doing. That’s why CNCPTS is so unique.”
The partnership and friendship have grown stronger over the years. Both are perfectionists and workaholics, in a good way. “We’re family now. I’m the one who can give him advice he might not want to hear, and vice-versa, but that’s ultimately better for the CNCPTS brand and product,” Point says.
The duo continues to write the sneakers-meetsstreetwear-meets-luxury playbook. “There was no job description for a collaborator for a sneaker boutique, nor were there social media execs, and agencies didn’t get what we were trying to do,” Point says. “So we did a lot of it ourselves, building the CNCPTS brand every step of the way.” He has no regrets. “It’s been a fun and wild ride,” he says. “Do right by the brands we partner with and our consumers, and we know the CNCPTS brand will only grow stronger.”
Hassan isn’t about to take his foot off the gas pedal now. “I’m very competitive,” he says. “It’s my nature to be distinctive and ever-changing. I’m just blessed to have a team of very talented people to help me get us there.” —G.D.
What makes Tarek Hassan one-of-a-kind.
Talking Tarek WHAT’S IN A NAME?
TAREK HASSAN IS an icon in the sneaker and comfort segments after 40 years of retailing, advising, and partnering with leading brands. His name is also widely known in the luxury tier and, increasingly, the apparel world. As much as CNCPTS is a brand, so is Tarek.
And for good reason. Tarek knows his stuff. But he’s the furthest thing from a know-it-all. He never forces his opinion on anyone. In fact, he often finishes statements with his favorite turn of phrase, “Correct?” He’s not saying he’s right. He’s asking if you agree. It’s classic Tarek. A fashion retailer, by definition, is a curator. And Tarek is that to a T. He is a perpetual student of retail and fashion. He’s always learning, always eager see what’s next on the horizon, always on the hunt for the next big trend. And that’s fine with him.
RG Barry Brands CEO Bob Mullaney, who first got to know Tarek in the mid ’90s and is now a close friend, has attended many conferences with him over the years. These events often feature a lot of “experts” espousing their wisdom, particularly on what brands need to do. “Tarek mostly stays quiet, not having to advocate,” he says. “He focuses on what he needs to do, and the rest takes care of itself.”
Gary Champion, president of Clarks Americas, wholeheartedly agrees. “Tarek has quietly become one of the leading voices in the fashion industry. He is humble in the way that he operates, but confident in his abilities to attract his target consumer.” Champion, whose working relationship with Tarek dates back to the late ’80s, adds, “It’s been a pleasure watching Tarek grow as a person and see him transform his retail visions into successful endeavors.”
Tarek is very balanced, says Felix Zahn, director of merchandising for Ecco Americas. “He’s never forgot where he came from, recognizes the past, has as a great understanding of the present, and a clear vision of the future,” he says, noting that such an all-around bundle is extremely rare. “Having this great gift allows him to constantly find and pick the next winner.” Speaking of which, Zahn says his all-time favorite Ecco/CNCPTS collab was the exclusive U.S. launch of the Exostrike boot in 2018. “It was very progressive at the time, featuring a highly futuristic look, Dyneema-fused leathers, and our latest Fluidform platform innovation,” he says. “I knew that Tarek was the right partner for this and would help us reach consumers who typically didn’t interact with Ecco. We sold out within days and, shortly after, followed up on the next version with CNCPTS.”
Will Campbell, senior director of sales for Converse and previously with Nike, cites a number of “incredible” collabs over the 15 years he has been involved in with CNCPTS. A few personal favorites include the Nike Lobster series, Converse Southern Flame series, which paid homage to the history of basketball in New England, and Nike SB Dunk High When Pigs Fly, which he believes was “ahead of its time and exemplified a wonderful sense of humor and a depth of storytelling.” The one constant through all the collabs: Tarek’s magic touch. “He and the team have done an incredible job
amplifying brand stories, whether it’s through in-person retail experiences, brand activations, and collabs,” he says. “They stand out like no other in that regard.”
That distinction applies to CNCPTS physical stores, as well. Alex Ditmas, a designer of several CNCPTS stores, including the latest on Boston’s Newbury St., says much of that stems from Tarek’s steadfast belief in brick-and-mortar—something increasingly rare in the “fast-food digital era.” Tarek, in contrast, believes in the human connection that a store can foster. “No one cares for the community like Tarek does,” he says. “This is why the spaces we’ve designed together aren’t traditional stores. They always seek to bring the community together through spaces to sit and discuss, to share the passion for sneakers and music, to share a coffee…to share a moment. This is why he’s a retailer like no other; his approach is from the heart.”
Tarek possesses immense industry knowledge. Call him the Oracle of Boston. “When I first joined Birkenstock (2013), Tarek was one of the first I engaged to really determine how much bandwidth this brand may have beyond our heritage consumer,” says David Kahan, president of Birkenstock Americas, noting their relationship begins years before during his Rockport days. “He knew Birkenstock better than I did at that time, and his guidance and insight helped shape the path to where we are today.”
Similarly, Mullaney recalls the time he was studying for his MBA degree while working as a sales manager at Timberland. Watching Tarek launch CNCPTS inside the back of The Tannery was like earning a PhD in retail. “I learned quite a lot observing his actions and lessons,” he says. “It encouraged me to be a student of consumer behavior.”
Kahan considers himself and Tarek enteral students of branding. “We both share a real dedication to doing what’s right, serving the customer by exciting them with innovative product,” he says. “More than anything, we’re brand people. We share the same belief that brands have equity and must be nurtured at all times.” —G.D.
When people are asked about Tarek Hassan, the answer is a whole lot.
“Cool, organic, consumer research, and savvy.”
—Bob Mullaney, CEO, RG Barry Brands
“Pioneer.”
—Scott Shaefer, CEO, Zappos
“Sage. He’s a kind, humble, creative, and visionary person with a deep understanding of the world.”
—Felix Zahn, director of merchandising, Ecco Americas
—Will Campbell, senior director of sales, Converse
Nike SB Dunk Low/CNCPTS Blue Lobster packaging.
is
continued from page 18
seeds for the broad success Birkenstock now enjoys.”
Rusty Hall, CEO of Mephisto USA, cites two CNCPTS collabs, the Match and Rainbow, for having a similar halo effect on the brand. Like Birkenstock at the time, Mephisto was hardly the first brand to spring to mind for a cool streetwear collab in 2017. But CNCPTS was the ultimate curator of cool. Its bold mint and magenta takes on the Match, Mephisto’s best-selling walking shoe, turned heads. They followed up in 2019 with the Apple sneaker, a premium update of the iconic Rainbow style, which Steve Jobs wore. “Tarek was the first to introduce other materials (mesh) to the Match, which has since led to a greater resurgence of that style in the U.S.,” Hall reports, adding that the relationship stretches back 25 years. “Tarek has a very creative mind and sees trends earlier than most do. He also knows which brands will meet his objective with the trends he sees.”
BEANTOWN AND BEYOND
CNCPTS had been in business less than a year when Hassan realized it needed to graduate to a standalone location. Eight years later it finally did—near The Tannery’s Cambridge location. Though the store quickly proved itself financially able to stand on its own, there was a much bigger reason for the delay in moving into its own digs: being part of a family
business. Sometimes internal decisions move like molasses. Hassan, undeterred, continued to build the CNCPTS brand one killer collab at a time. Meanwhile, brands regularly urged him to expand beyond Boston. “They wanted to continue to grow with us because they trusted us,” he says. “It wasn’t pressure so much as an invitation.”
The Big Apple was the first CNCPTS outpost. Located in Tribeca, the space debuted as a rotating pop-up shop—another shoe retailing first. The entire store was built around one collab and then redesigned for the next. Hassan, now fully on his own, saw it as next level interaction between brands and consumers. The debut exhibit was the New Balance/CNCPTS 997 Rosé. The 6,000-pairs blew out in-store and online in minutes.
The sneaker collab also broke new ground by being “unapologetically pink,” says Deon Point, creative director of CNCPTS. “Back then, a pink shoe was unheard of,” he says. But there was a method to the risk. As luxury was part of the DNA for CNCPTS, it was only right that Moét was brought in as a co-sponsor for the pop-up. “It took a year and a half of planning, but customers and New Balance were blown away,” Point says. That location eventually evolved into a permanent CNCPTS store, which later moved to its current spot on University Place near NYU.
In 2016, CNCPTS opened an outpost in Dubai, followed soon after by stores in Beijing and Shanghai. “We became global, which is a dream I always had,” Hassan says. “The strength of the brand had been established; customers in those cities understood what to expect when they came into our stores.” Hassan believes Riyadh is the natural next step for CNCPTS. “It’s an up-andcoming market, and there’s a huge following in sneakers and streetwear culture.”
There are other cities on Hassan’s radar, so stay tuned. His drive to grow CNCPTS remains as strong as ever, through new locations, collabs, brands, categories…whatever the target consumer craves and, more importantly, doesn’t yet know they will crave. Hassan, the curator in chief, is on the job with the rest of his team assisting in every step of the way. That’s CNCPTS in a nutshell: Never reacting. Always staying ahead of the curve and creating new markets—just as it did when it was the first to merchandise luxury brands like Gucci and Balenciaga alongside Vans, Nike, and snowboards by Burton. Hassan dreamt it and built it, and consumers have been shopping CNCPTS ever since.
“If there’s a will, there’s a way,” Hassan says. “If you believe in yourself and trust your instincts, then nothing is impossible.” •
CNCPTS
located on Newbury Street, the Rodeo Drive of Boston.
HAPPY DAYS
Zappos ushered in the online age and reinvented the way the world buys shoes with their inventive blend of vision, genius, exceptional service, an irrepressible desire to spark happiness…and a splash of weirdness for good measure. Two and a half decades later, it’s still a superb combo. By Kathy Passero
TO FULLY APPRECIATE the seismic impact Zappos has had not just on the footwear industry but on the way the world shops, it helps to do a little time travel. The year is 1999. Ecommerce is in its infancy. If consumers can’t find shoes in the right size, style, and color at a retailer in their area, they’re generally out of luck. But that’s about to change, thanks to a frustrated shopperturned-entrepreneur and a visionary investor-turned-partner.
It started with a pair of Airwalk Desert Chukka boots—or, rather, the lack of them. Software engineer Nick Swinmurn got so frustrated about being unable to find the boots he wanted at a San Francisco mall that he quit his day job and created an ecommerce concept he called shoesite.com. Swinmurn felt sure online sales were the next big thing, but the venture capital firms he approached for backing were skeptical. Would people really buy shoes through the World Wide Web? Not likely, they reckoned.
Then he met Tony Hsieh and Alfred Lin, two Harvard grads who’d made a bundle in Silicon Valley selling an online banner ad platform called LinkExchange to Microsoft and founded a VC firm called Venture Frogs. Hsieh’s first instinct
was to agree with the other VCs who’d turned Swinmurn down. “Selling shoes online seemed like a poster child for bad internet ideas,” he once recalled. Swinmurn countered by pointing out that shoes were a $40 billion market in the U.S. and five percent of them were already being sold by mail order. Venture Frogs decided to invest, and Hsieh became co-CEO of the company, which was rechristened with the catchier name Zappos, short for zapatos, or shoes in Spanish.
Of course, Hsieh did more than fund Zappos. He was the architect of the company’s legendary high-touch, customer-first culture and beloved polices like free shipping, free returns (up to a year after purchase), and an ultra-phone-friendly business model. The business’s 800 number popped up on every Zappos web page; shoppers could call it 24/7 and reach a team member who would answer questions and patiently provide assistance. (One legendary call lasted almost six hours.) Hsieh also ushered in a quirky, egalitarian, happiness-first work environment that embodied one of the brand’s core values: “Create fun and a little weirdness.”
Scott Schaefer
FRONT RUNNER
Zappos proved to be far more than a business innovator; the company radically reinvented the footwear shopping experience. Their warm-fuzzy, customer-is-always-right approach took the fear out of an unfamiliar format for millions of people buying shoes online for the first time—and their loyalty-building shipping and return policies became industry standard for countless other etailers (at least for a while).
“It’s easy to forget that there was no Amazon as we know it now when Zappos was founded, so it was a foreign concept to sell shoes online. They were trailblazers,” says Steve Mahoney, senior vice president at Samuel Hubbard, who has worked with Zappos for more than two decades (beginning at Clarks) and says the company is still one of his biggest customers. “Couple that with Zappos’ unique approach to customer service, and you have a sort of historical landmark in footwear.”
“Florsheim has partnered with Zappos since its launch 25 years ago, back when Zappos was based in San Francisco,” says Beverly Goldberg, vice president of Florsheim. “Despite doubts about the viability of e-commerce, particularly for shoes, we joined in, and Florsheim has enjoyed steady growth with Zappos ever since.”
“I remember the first meeting with the Zappos buying team early on when I was working for
Not only has Zappos redefined the shoe shopping experience, it has done the same for what it means to “work in an o ce.”
Candie’s,” says Gary Van Ackeren, now national sales manager for Dingo. “Three former Nordstrom buyers visited our New York office during FFANY. They were dressed in three-piece suits and had a set of business plans to try to convince us that selling product from a photograph online was going to be very big.”
How right they were. Retail ecommerce sales in the U.S. reached $289.2 billion in Q1 2024, according to U.S. Census Bureau data. Globally, ecommerce is expected to hit $6.3 trillion this year, per data from the forecasting firm EMarketer.
But in the quarter century since Zappos helped to pioneer the online age, countless etailers have come and gone. Meanwhile, Zappos is still going strong as it celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2024. It’s quite the feat, or should we say feet?
That success has a great deal to do with holding true to the company’s original values of delivering happiness and treating customers right, says CEO Scott Schaefer. Service is still Zappos’ north star. “When we started out, we were the sole footwear retailer online. Now, virtually every brand has an online presence, but Zappos is still around doing what we do best—provide exceptional customer service and sell shoes,” says Schaefer, who has been with Zappos since 2008 in roles from operations to strategy to finance. “This milestone is a testament to the value of consistently putting our customers
first. We’re customer-obsessed. We go above and beyond to bring added value to them and to online shopping as we evolve and innovate.”
And customers aren’t the only ones who benefit from the Zappos mindset. “We deliver exceptional service to our brand partners, vendors, and of course, each other—Zappos employees,” Schaefer adds. While prescience and business savvy fueled the company’s meteoric rise, in many way the good vibes approach is what sustained its flight path and made the brand iconic.
“The Zappos culture was so profound that big corporations would schedule field trips from all over the country to visit the Zappos campus,” Van Ackeren recalls. “Tony was deeply passionate about Zappos’ culture and the mission of delivering happiness. He ensured that everyone in the organization felt supported in a fun and engaging work environment.”
“The leading attribute to me is a constant theme of kindness,” says Mahoney. “From the top down and bottom up, you deal with nice people who mean well, work hard, and strive to do the right thing.”
TRIAL AND ERROR
Proving that even brilliant business minds don’t get everything right the first time, Zappos’ leadership team took a few missteps before they hit their stride. In the early days, the company
CONGRATULATIONS
fulfilled orders with drop shipments, relying on brands to send products directly to Zappos customers. Unfortunately, the brands didn’t give Zappos up-to-the-minute information about their inventory, so the shoes customers ordered weren’t always available. Result? Annoyed customers. Compounding the problem was the fact that brands’ warehouses were scattered around the country, and they all had different shipping times, so customers couldn’t be sure when they’d receive their order. Result? More annoyed shoppers.
To solve the problem, Zappos abandoned drop-shipping and started buying inventory from manufacturers. At first, they outsourced warehousing and shipping. It was a cost-effective approach, but the firm was slow to fill orders, which further alienated shoppers.
“As an ecommerce company, we should have considered warehousing to be our core competency from the beginning,” Hsieh wrote in a Harvard Business Review article in 2010. “Trusting that a third party would care about our customers as much as we did was one of our biggest mistakes. If we hadn’t reacted quickly by starting our own warehouse operation, that mistake would eventually have destroyed Zappos.”
Zappos survived the dot.com crash and overcame a number of challenges to reach merchandise sales of $70 million in 2003, but it was still a startup in many ways—long on growing pains and short on cash. In 2004, the business found itself was at a crossroads. Providing top-notch customer service had always been Zappos’ lodestar, but attracting staff for call centers was a constant struggle in the San Francisco Bay Area because the cost of living was too high to make that kind of work sustainable. They’d been burned by outsourcing already, so subcontractors were out of the question.
VIVA LAS VEGAS
After much debate, Zappos made a bold move: Headquarters would relocate to Las Vegas, where all-night work was common and applicants for call center jobs were plentiful. (The work paid quite livable wages by the city’s standards.) The executive team broke the news to the staff and offered to pay moving expenses for anyone who agreed to come along. To their delight, 70 of the 90 team members agreed.
Zappos also made it a policy to train every new hire, regardless of job title, as a call center rep. This helped the entire team develop an appreciation for the work the call center did and underscored the value the company placed on phone interactions. The way Hsieh saw it, most customers called at some point, so why not seize the opportunity to create a “WOW” moment? A positive interaction with a rep would leave shoppers feeling good about Zappos—and that would likely build loyalty as well as referrals (a.k.a. free word-of-mouth marketing).
Bucking the standard approach, Zappos had no pre-written script for its reps. Nor did they push anyone to upsell or pressure reps to field as many calls as possible in a shift. On the contrary, Zappos encouraged team members to take as long as they needed with each caller. And reps were free to let their personality shine through. They could be creative. And funny. The goal was to make an emotional connection with the person on the other end of the phone.
The plan worked. In true Zappos fashion, call center reps did everything from sending a sympathy bouquet to a customer who missed the window to mail back a pair of shoes due to a death in the family, to figuring out where one could order pizza at 3 a.m. in Santa Monica. (Hsieh shared the latter anecdote, an impromptu “test” he and some other attendees at a sales conference cooked up to gauge how stellar the call center really was, in his 2010 book Delivering Happiness: A Path to Profits, Passion, and Purpose.)
Zappos’ headquarters, in the renovated former Las Vegas City Hall, became
Zappos on 25 remarkable years
Tarek Hassan’s Lifetime Achievement Award
as iconic as the call center. “I vividly recall visiting the Henderson office when Zappos relocated to Nevada. The layout was astonishing—Tony’s ‘office’ was right in the open, situated in the middle of everyone else,” Dingo’s Van Ackeren says. “The building featured dedicated rooms for new moms, spaces for people to recharge, areas to embrace new ideas, and even game rooms scattered throughout. At times one would have to dodge golf balls rolling down the halls.”
“They were just so unique. When you would visit their office, it was fun, buzzing, and interesting. I never saw anything like it prior to or since,” Samuel Hubbard’s Mahoney recalls.
Zappos’ brand partners have fond memories of the firm’s epic parties.
“Every August during the shoe show, they hosted an incredible party, inviting everyone who played a role in their success,” says Van Ackeren. “My favorite was a circus-themed event that featured live animals roaming the area, multiple stages for circus acts, and Tony himself greeting everyone at the entrance, dressed as an animal, always delivering happiness!”
Headquarters is still a wonderland of whim-
The Four Es
Experience, efficiencies, energy, and each other—or “the four Es,” as they’re fondly called internally are the cornerstones Zappos uses in business planning and execution, as CEO Scott Schaefer explains. Here are a few examples of the Es in action.
Experience and Efficiencies: “To help customers shop as smoothly as possible during the busy back-to-school season, we recently rolled out an onsite experience to simplify size selection on kids’ footwear across Zappos’ desktop and mobile website,” Schaefer explains. “With this launch, it’s easier for customers to select a kid’s size and add it to their cart because they are no longer required to select their preferred gender first.”
Energy: “We recently energized employees through our summer company picnic, which we held at an indoor adventure park for local employees,” says Schaefer. “We sent charcuterie boards to remote folks to partake in the warm weather together virtually.” Nothing gets the energy up at Zappos like time together creating fun—and maybe a little weirdness (See sidebar, p. 26, on Core Values.)
Each Other: “When Zappos folks learned that the family of Jake Luxemburger, a 10-year-old boy who played baseball for the Lyndon Bananas team before he tragically lost his life in fall of 2023, was searching for tickets to the sold-out Savannah Bananas game as a way of celebrating his life, a group of Zapponians surprised them with 10 tickets together,” says Schaefer. “We came together as a community to help them enjoy the event and celebrate Jake’s passion.”
“There’s always a new example to share with the 4 E’s,” Schaefer concludes. “They’re ongoing. That’s the beauty of them!”
sical amenities designed to brighten the work day and inspire happiness. There’s an arcade, an auditorium for movie screenings and game watch parties, a nap room with recliners surrounded by a giant aquarium, a collection of massage chairs, a gym, and a rooftop patio with mini golf, among other quirky perks. (It’s possible to book virtual and in-person tours.) The building is also LEEDGold certified, reflective of Zappos’ commitment to sustainability. Employees are encouraged to leave campus and explore downtown Vegas, and events are often held at local restaurants and clubs.
FORWARD THINKING
In 2008, Zappos hit $1 billion in gross merchandise sales. But with expenses outpacing revenue, the company was forced to reduce workforce by eight percent. The following year, Amazon—an upstart online bookseller back in the shoesite.com days, but now a colossus—offered to buy Zappos for a reported $1.2 billion, the largest acquisition in Amazon’s history. Hsieh agreed. The deal gave Zappos access to Amazon’s considerable resources while allowing Zappos to keep being Zappos, operating largely independently and maintaining its own headquarters. (Hsieh remained CEO until 2019 and died in a house fire in 2020.)
For its part, Amazon—which had tried and failed to develop its own shoe and accessories site—took several pages from the Zappos playbook, adopting the company’s quick shipping and frictionless return policy as well as its customer-first mentality. At the time, Jeff Bezos told the press, “Zappos has
ZAPPOS 10 CORE VALUES
a customer obsession, which is so easy for me to admire….I get all weak-kneed when I see a customerobsessed company.”
As an Amazon subsidiary, Zappos expanded and diversified product offerings, adding apparel and other goods. (Today, the platform features millions of products from more than 1,500 brands.)
In 2017 came the launch of Zappos Adaptive, a program catering to customers with special needs. The concept originated with a call from a grandmother in search of shoes for her grandson, who was unable to untie shoelaces. Research revealed an underserved community in need of functional, fashionable products, so Zappos started offering footwear tailored to the adaptive market, with products like easy-on and orthotic-friendly shoes, footwear for customers who needed a single shoe or two shoes in different sizes, and more. The mix includes products from well-known brands like Nike, Converse, and New Balance.
“We’ve also gotten more committed to the performance footwear space, and with that, had a lot more on the ground time with folks at races nationwide,” Schaefer adds.
Zappos has upped its philanthropy game, too. “One of the highlights of Florsheim’s partnership with Zappos is the Zalloween events,” says Goldberg of Zappos’ annual Halloween-themed golf event, created in 2009 to raise money for charity. “They’ve been a fun and memorable way to team-build and increase vendor community camaraderie over the years.”
“Zappos mission is still to deliver WOW,” says Schaefer. “We’ve always experimented and pushed the
envelope, and our eyes are always open for chances to surprise and delight our customers.” He cites the company’s partnership with the Savannah Bananas exhibition baseball team as an example. “It was an unexpected sponsorship move that has resulted in unique, fun merchandise for the team and its fans, including the Savannah Banana–branded Crocs available on Zappos.”
Efficiency and shipping speed are also focal points. “We’ve streamlined our warehouse and shipping and receiving network to be closer to more customers than ever before, allowing us to reach them in the timeliest way possible,” Schaefer explains.
Technology, too, is key. “I see more advances in the onsite experience thanks to our tech team and all the advancements coming the industry’s way on that front,” he continues. “We’re experimenting with AI for shoe pairing and outfit recommendations, and we’ve dipped our toes in Virtual Try-on technology. I’m excited to see what additional service offerings we can bring to our customers through the site as we push more boundaries.”
But no matter how high-tech Zappos becomes, the human touch will always be at the heart of the business. “Tony Hsieh cared about people and put them first,” says Schaefer. “Zappos is still a people-first company and always will be. In a time when people are still feeling the effects of distance and potential isolation, Zappos and our amazing Customer Loyalty Team are a constant, there for you 24/7—to tell a joke, be a friendly voice, maybe order you a pizza and, of course, help with all your Zappos customer needs.”
Happiness 101: Zappos conducts virtual and in-person tours of its downtown Las Vegas headquarters.
COURT REPORT
The classic tennis silhouette aces it for guys.
YY Nation
In 250 years, Birkenstocks have been called everything from tree stumps to hippie chic to couture cool. In truth, they transcend labels—and time.
By Kathy Passero
A ’STOCK MARKET
T 250, BIRKENSTOCK is older than the United States of America. The venerable Germany company also predates many of its home country’s most famous landmarks, including Neuschwanstein Castle, the Brandenburg Gate, and the Berlin Cathedral. And it has been in the design business longer than fabled heritage brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Givenchy, with which it shares a connection through L Catterton, the private equity arm of luxury goods giant LVMH. These are all remarkable feats, especially when you consider that the average lifespan for a business is somewhere between 10 and 20 years, depending on the data you source.
During its long life, Birkenstock has been everything from a Haight-Ashbury hippie accoutrement to a Bushwick hipster essential. It has been the favorite shoe of brainy tech dudes (an old pair of Steve Jobs’s brown suede Birkenstock Arizona sandals sold not along ago for over $200,000) and the darling of haute couture, gracing the feet of Kate Moss, Heidi Klum, and—most recently—Margot Robbie in Barbie. Through it all, Birkenstock has stayed true to its mission—crafting comfortable, ergonomically designed, flat-bottomed footwear with care and high-quality natural materials.
“The 250-year milestone is a privilege and a special moment,” says CEO Oliver Reichert, now in his 15th year with the brand. “In a world where consumers spend their money more and more intentionally, it’s getting difficult for brands that have no real purpose. Birkenstock is a pure, purpose-driven brand. We’re not a footwear company; we’re a footbed company selling the experi-
ence of walking as nature intended. Our products serve a primal human need and offer a real functional benefit to consumers. We’re selling a purpose that never goes out of style.”
Another key to Birkenstock’s longevity is its passion for innovation, says Andrea Schneider-Braunberger, managing director of the Society for Business History, and official historian for the brand. “From the outset, the Birkenstock family focused on transforming their expertise as traditional shoemakers into pioneering advancements in foot health to improve their customers’ daily lives.”
David Kahan, president Birkenstock Americas, calls “Birks” the ultimate symbol of democracy. “Birkenstock resonates with people of all walks of life,” he says. “It has universal appeal that transcends cultural and social boundaries. What other brand has such a diverse and loyal following that includes Michelle Obama and Tucker Carlson? Despite representing opposite ends of the spectrum, they share an appreciation for the comfort and quality. That widespread appeal is a testament to our commitment to creating products that prioritize quality and timeless design.”
When Kahan joined the company 12 years ago, he was still a self-proclaimed sneaker guy. “Birkenstock was the only nonathletic brand I had ever worn,” he says. But he recognized that if a dedicated few could love the brand so deeply, then millions more could too. “Our task was to unlock this potential and broaden our appeal without losing our core values and the essence of what makes Birkenstock special,” he says. “Over the years, we’ve done just that, transforming the brand from an outsider in the footwear industry to a global icon.”
HOW IT ALL BEGAN: A CRASH COURSE
Of course, back in the 1700s, when cobbler Johannes Birkenstock was honing his craft in the small village of Langen-Bergheim, not far from
Oliver Reichert
David Kahan
Frankfurt, he would have been stunned to learn that he was laying the groundwork for what would become one of the world’s best-beloved and most enduring companies. The earliest recorded mention of Johannes is in the archives of his local church, listing him as a shoemaker in 1774. He taught his nephew, who shared his name, how to handcraft shoes, and so began the family tradition of passing the craft along to successive generations.
In the second half of the 19th century, the Industrial Revolution swept through Germany, bringing with it factory-made goods and shrinking the demand for traditional crafts as well as the skilled tradespeople who made them. Fortunately, Johannes’ great grandson, Konrad Birkenstock, was not a man to be sidelined. A born inventor, he opened a workshop in Frankfurt and introduced a series of breakthroughs in footwear, including anatomically shaped lasts, shoes designed differently for right and left feet, rounded heels, and malleable soles that allowed the foot to roll. Later, he created an anatomically shaped insole, contoured for arch support. Eventually he combined the inner and outer pieces into what he called the Birkenstock Health Shoe. His design flew in the face of the thenwidespread belief that the best way to ease foot pain was to wear shoes that kept your feet firmly in place. Konrad’s ingenious—and effective—Health Shoes were intentionally flexible, which helped wearers walk more naturally. He continued to experiment with design and material, and, in 1913, introduced flexible insoles that he called Footbeds, made partly from cork. He and his son Carl set off traveling through Europe to educate fellow shoemakers about the benefits of Birkenstock’s anatomically shaped lasts with flexible insoles.
Carl took a page from his father’s book and introduced more innovations. He opened his own company with his brothers and set up a series of podiatry courses he called the System Birkenstock in 1932, followed by a podiatry textbook in 1947.
Carl’s son Karl joined the family business in 1954 and created what he called the Original BirkenstockFootbed Sandal, featuring the company’s trademark flexible cork-latex footbed and an adjustable strap. He debuted it at the 1963 shoe trade show in Düsseldorf, but the fashion world scoffed at
the odd-looking product. Undeterred, Karl changed course, directing his outreach efforts to doctors, who could help promote the shoe’s health benefits. Before long, Birkenstock sandals had developed a loyal fanbase among healthcare workers.
COUNTERCULTURE BABY
In the 1960s, an American tourist named Margot Fraser found her feet aching during a visit to Germany. She bought a pair of adjustable singlestrap Birkenstock sandals (now known as the Madrid) and was so impressed that, after she got home to San Francisco, she bought the rights from Karl to import and sell them in the U.S. Unfortunately, shoe retailers reacted much like the Düsseldorf crowd had. When they refused to carry the strange-looking shoes, Fraser approached health food stores instead. Her timing couldn’t have been better. It was the height of the hippie movement, and countless flower children who came into the stores to stock up granola and wheat germ were suddenly besotted with Birkenstock sandals. Natural materials? Earthy colors? Unpretentious, comfortable styling? The shoes seemed tailor-made for free spirits. When Birkenstock introduced a new model with a second strap (the now famous Arizona) in 1973, the hippies dug them too.
Tip Top Shoes in New York was among the first to board the Birk bandwagon. “My father was of German heritage and he knew about Birkenstock,
so we ordered the Zürich in taupe and the Arizona in sand in the Woodstock era,” says owner Danny Wasserman. “People came in and tried them on, and they started to sell. We started running a postage stamp–sized ad in the back of The New York Times with a photo of the Arizona, and more people came in to buy Birkenstocks. Retailers started to ask me what they were because 99 percent of them didn’t know. Next, we ran ads in The Village Voice and Rolling Stone. Soon we’d have six or seven people outside waiting for us to open so they could buy Birkenstocks. It was amazing. Then we did a trunk show with Margot Fraser and Karl Birkenstock, and we sold 100 pairs that day!
“They looked weird on everybody,” Wasserman says with a laugh. “We used to run ads that said, ‘the ugly shoe that makes you smile.’”
Seemingly overnight, Birkenstocks became a counterculture icon. To wear them was to make an anti-establishment sartorial statement. It was the first of many times fringe groups, underground movements, and rebels would be drawn to the brand and co-opt it as a political fashion statement.
Perhaps inevitably, as the flower power culture fell out of favor, Birkenstocks dropped off the pop culture radar, too. The medical profession, eco warriors, and older buyers in search of comfort were still enthusiastic (the closed-toe Zürich style was a particular favorite), but by the 1980s, the brand was finding it hard to shake off the Woodstock generation association. Preppies and punks dismissed them as “Jesus sandals.”
Then an extraordinary thing happened: The fashion world started to discover Birks. In 1985, British Elle featured them in a fashion shoot. Five years later, The Face magazine showcased Kate Moss (then 16) wearing Birkenstocks. Admittedly, not everyone embraced the idea. Perry Ellis famously fired Marc Jacobs after he put Tyra Banks in Birkenstocks on the runway as part of his groundbreaking spring 1993 grunge collection. Despite the critics—or perhaps because of them—the collection cemented Jacobs’ reputation as a visionary and kickstarted Birkenstock’s popularity with Seattle musicians, So Cal skaters, and college kids, who liked both the comfort factor and the anti-establishment vibe.
FASHION MEETS FUNCTION
As the new millennium dawned, Birkenstock’s appeal broadened. Stars like Gwyneth Paltrow and
Clockwise from top: Ads from the past; Tokio clogs; U.S. Birkenstock pioneer Margot Fraser.
Jude Law were spotted wearing the brand in 2002. The following year, the company partnered with supermodel Heidi Klum, inviting her to put her own spin on the Arizona, Madrid, and Amsterdam as part of a special Glamour Collection. Klum’s interpretation—blinged up with studs, rhinestones, and frayed and faded denim—was such a hit that it paved the way for many more collaborations (including several follow-ups with Klum). The most headline-making was arguably Céline’s Phoebe Philo in 2012, when she lined Arizonas with mink and put “Furkenstocks” on the runway. Additional collaborations have included CNCPTS, Jil Sander, Maison Valentino, Proenza Schouler, Rick Owens, and Stüssy. Adding to the brand’s star power: Celebrities like Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid have turned out in Birkenstocks recently.
“In the early years, our strongest demographic was women in their 50s with foot problems, but we don’t really have a demographic profile anymore,” according to Frank and Toni Budworth of Birkenstock Midtown in Sacramento, CA, now marking its 38th year of carrying the brand.
“Right now Birkenstocks appeal to everybody,” agrees Wasserman of Tip Top, which carries approximately 50 styles of Birkenstock these days in colors from turquoise to burgundy. “The Boston in taupe suede was the hottest shoe on the market both this year and last year.” Wasserman links the brand’s current fashionability to the fact that, “since Covid, everyone is looking for comfort, and the brand is famous for it.”
Kahan believes Birkenstock will always transcend trendiness. Once people get hooked on the comfort of the footbed, “they become lifelong fans,” he says. “They don’t see us as a flavor of the moment.”
He should know. Kahan himself was an unlikely convert long before joining the company. “After suffering a running injury and being diagnosed with plantar fasciitis, my podiatrist recommended Birkenstock for recovery. I was skeptical. Coming from Brooklyn, I saw it as a brand associated with freaks, hippies, and outcasts, far removed from my personal style,” he says. His perception changed dramatically when he experienced the transformative support of the Birkenstock footbed. “After wearing them at home for a few weeks, my injury improved almost magically. I became a missionary for the brand, wearing my Arizonas everywhere.”
Troy Dempsey, owner of The Heel Shoe Fitters in Green Bay, WI, sees proof of the Arizona’s lasting popularity every day. “Our back room is a sea of blue boxes that say Arizona on them,” says Dempsey of the shop, which has carried Birkenstocks since the ’70s. He estimates that the store has sold more than 250,000 pair over the years, culminating in a recent 250th Anniversary Celebration of Birkenstock at The Heel. “We sold almost 400 pairs at full price. It was our most successful event to date,” he says.
EYES ON THE HORIZON
Of course, incredible success stories like Birkenstock’s are never quite as simple as sticking to a winning formula. They demand brilliant foresight and careful stewardship. Reichert was brought aboard as chief advisor in 2009, along with Markus Bensberg (who has since stepped down), in the hopes that they would bring the external perspective and manage ment savvy needed to lead general change. One of Reichert’s first insights when the family handed him the reins was that “Birkenstock was a sleeping giant with all the essential ingredients of a super brand—a rich heritage, an unyielding approach to craftsmanship combined with an obsession for quality, a vast product archive with an impressive variety of iconic silhouettes, a steadily growing global following sharing similar values and beliefs, and a uniquely democratic approach to innovation, pricing, and distribution,” he says.
expanding production here allows us to uphold the high-quality standards that define our brand. Our workforce possesses the expertise and craftsmanship to produce footwear that meets our rigorous standards. By expanding locally, we maintain greater control over our production processes, ensuring that each product embodies the quality that Birkenstock is known for.”
Reichert has made it his mission to turn the sleeping giant the global super brand he knew it could be. “From the first day, we turned over every stone and pushed every button to release the energy and create momentum for the brand. In some areas, it was quite tough to reach our goals, but we’ve done a lot right in the last 10 years,” he says.
One smart move was selling a majority stake to L Catterton in April 2021. The brand continues to operate its business independently, but now has access to L Catterton’s global network and resources. Another was last year’s IPO, which put the company in the hands of a broad, international audience and “gave our global fan base the opportunity to invest in their favorite brand,” Reichert says.
Though Birkenstock now boasts distribution to over 100 countries and offers approximately 800 styles, manufacturing is still based in Germany. At press time, construction was underway on a new production facility in Pasewalk.
“We engineer and produce 100 percent of our footwear in the European Union, one of the safest and most reg-
These days, the company is balancing veneration for its rich 250-year history with intense focus on the chapters ahead.
“It is much more important for us to look ahead and ignite the future,” says Reichert. “The risk of a cultural heritage is that you suddenly find yourself as the keeper of your own museum surrounded by old masters that nobody wants to see anymore. I will not allow that to happen. If you want to remain relevant as a brand today, you have to allow for creative and meaningful new interpretations through the lens of the next generation of consumers.” And that is exactly what Birkenstock is doing.
With sound leadership and continued innovation that doesn’t sacrifice authenticity, SchneiderBraunberger firmly believes Birkenstock “has the potential to thrive for another 250 years.”
Not bad for what began with a humble cobbler’s shop and innovated products that were once derided as “tree stumps” but went on to win hearts world over, becoming a multi-billion-dollar brand and a legend for those famous, fabulous “ugly shoes that make you smile.” •
Clockwise from top left: Birkenstock goes couture; shearlng-lined classics for the cool months.
NORTH STAR
You don’t make it to age 110 without conducting business the right way. This Maine chain has held its ground through the decades with an approach as pragmatic and purposeful as its Yankee clientele.
By Petra Guglielmetti
I
F YOU GREW up in Maine, you probably know the family shoe chain Lamey Wellehan. I got my back-to-school penny loafers there every year as a kid in the ’90s. It was as sure a sign of fall as the leaves beginning to turn. Lamey Wellehan is an institution—one of those “Maine names,” like Moxie, Oakhurst, Jolly John. (Mainers know what I mean). So when I moved home to the Pine Tree State a few years ago, after a decade or so in the New York Metro area, and I needed to outfit my three kids in proper winter boots, I headed to the nearby Lamey Wellehan in Scarborough. The large, bustling store greeted us and got right to work. Everyone’s feet were expertly measured, which was a refreshing treat after a pandemic of shopping mostly online. We left with three pairs of Bogs boots that had enough wiggle room to accommodate wool socks and would last more than a season. I’d expected our shopping excursion to feel nostalgic, but it also felt much more efficient—not to mention eco-friendly—than having six to nine boxes shipped to our home and then returning some (a back-and-forth hassle we’ve dealt with multiple times).
Lamey Wellehan is shoe shopping the way it used to be: a genuine sit-and-fit experience. Some things never get old as the now six-store chain, based in Auburn, proves by celebrating its 110th anniversary this year. The multi-generational family business has survived two world wars, the Great Depression, Great Recession, big box stores, Retail Apocalypse, personal tragedies, the rise of online shopping, the pandemic, and everything else. Today, Lamey Wellehan’s six locations, dotted along the state’s coastal corridor, do about $14 million in annual sales. Stores have opened, moved, and closed over the
decades, but the chain has hovered between four and seven locations. The past four years was no picnic. But like the challenges it has overcome before, the retailer found a way. Of late, business is healthy. Yet Lamey Wellehan’s story of longevity isn’t really one about a business that’s changed with the times, rather it’s much more about how it has managed to stay true to itself and to its customers. The more the world changes, the more Lamey Wellehan stays the same. That’s its secret sauce.
“For us, it’s all about relationships—with our guests, our associates, our vendors, and our community,” says Chris Stanley, president, who joined as a department manager in 1988 and named president in early 2022. “That’s what we’re always striving for, and when you go into our stores, you feel it.”
Stanley’s use of the word guest is intentional, as is associates versus employees. “You’re always a guest before you’re a customer,” read a sign that founders Charlie Lamey and Dan Wellehan hung over the door of their first store, in Lewiston, before its grand opening on St. Patrick’s Day 1914. (Guests were given shamrocks). Treating customers like friends and employees like family have been core Lamey Wellehan values from the get-go, and the store’s tight connection with its communities has generated tremendous loyalty. Many of these stores have served generations of families. They’ve fitted customers with their first pairs, watched them grow up and head off to college, and return to raise families. That level of connection isn’t transactional. Customers have plenty of alternatives to buy shoes, but they choose to shop here. The chain’s consistency, expert customer service, quality selection, and extensive community outreach efforts matter. Lamey Wellehan plays the long game.
“Lamey Wellehan is a very conservative, Yankee-values operation,” says Barry Ryan, a Blundstone rep who’s worked with the retailer for 35 years involving various brands. “Service and fit are the key ingredients to their success.”
Allison Frazier, a rep for Oboz, describes Lamey Wellehan as a unique, premium class of footwear retailer that has stood the
Chris Stanley
PLUS AWARDS MILESTONE: LAMEY WELLEHAN
test of time. “They are the benchmark for success,” she says. “Their model is shockingly simple: high-quality customer engagement, education, attentiveness to the fitting process, and care and loyalty to the communities they’re in.” Frazier adds, “You can feel these elements from every staff member in every store, and that consistency of experience is testament to their longevity.”
Many say the chain’s people-first approach stands out moreso as other stores cut back greatly on service. “I recently stopped into a boot store by the Maine Mall and the salesperson wouldn’t even come out from behind the desk,” says Jeff Church, who started working with Lamey Wellehan as its Avia rep in the ’80s and now reps Frye and several other brands. “You walk into a Lamey Wellehan and you get service, service, service!” That focus on building strong relationships applies to the business side, too. “They treat everyone with respect, from customers to the people they work with,” Church says. “In all these years, I’ve never had Lamey Wellehan be late paying a bill, ever.”
Indeed, Lamey Wellehan owns a solid reputation for being one of the industry’s good guys. “They’ve maintained their heritage but are also very modern and progressive in terms of their employee training/ retention, community outreach, and environmental impact,” says Jeff Martin, a Dansko rep, who began working with the retailer during his Timberland rep days in 2011. “They’re an extremely well-run company, and they have very bright people. It’s clear they’re passionate, engaged, and enthusiastic about their company, their brands, and their careers.”
BY THE NUMBERS
Lamey Wellehan may come across as old school in its format but there is nothing archaic about its approach to business. It’s a buttoned-up operation. The chain stocks around 200 brands and carries 100,000 pairs in inventory. The staff numbers around 70. Any and all data is collected, analyzed, and acted upon.
“Numbers are important, and we have to watch our KPIs and metrics,” Stanley says. “We need to know when to mark down, when to get things in. Converting rates, multi rates, and average tickets helps us to survive tough times. If you watch the numbers, you’ll get out of a tough situation, and we’ve been able to get out of a lot.”
Other key metrics include seeing what website visitors search for and tracking which categories associates are selling strongest. “We share as much data among the staff as we can,” Stanley notes. That includes its Daily Dashboard email, which lays out company-wide stats from the previous day in a digestible format complete with comics. In addition to by store stats like total sales, average sale per slip, total number of slips, and guest traffic, it ranks top-selling associates and brands. One recent edition cited a big win: “Thursday’s top sale came from Crystal in R04. She had a great seven-item, $686 sale! It included not one, not two, but four pairs of Aetrex memory foam insoles. It also had two Brooks running shoes and a Timberland work boot.”
Lamey Wellehan leans heavily on face-to-face data collection, as well. It knows what guests want because associates find out the old-fashioned way:
by chatting with them. When it comes to marketing, it leans on word-of-mouth and a strong community presence fostered by charitable initiatives. Current examples include The Maine Difference, an annual scholarship awarded to three students studying at Maine colleges with a focus on the state’s economy or ecology. The program tripled in size when the company, in 2015, began putting the $8,000 it saved yearly on plastic bags toward the program. Also, since 2010, its Shoes for Families program has collected customers’ gently worn footwear and redistributed tens of thousands of pairs to local organizations serving people in need.
Goodwill is ingrained in Lamey Wellenan’s culture. Jim Wellehan, who became president in 1976, and his wife Kathy, have long been the torch bearers. They view it as key to the chain’s success. In 2014, Lamey Wellehan was honored with a Family Business Award for “treating employees like family” and having a “customer-first” mentality. It was also recognized for its sustainability efforts, which include a company-wide recycling program, introduced in the ’90s, that recycles more than 90 percent of material that enters its stores. Since the early 2000s, the new stores have been outfitted with recycled-plastic carpeting, enhanced insulation, and rooftop solar panels. In 2014, Jim and Kathy Wellehan received the National Resource Council of Maine’s Conservation Leadership Lifetime Achievement Award. In 2020, Lamey Wellehan achieved its goal of reducing its carbon emissions by 50 percent.
The goodwill reflects inward, as well. By retail standards, there isn’t much turnover at Lamey Wellehan. Stanley credits it being a “comfortable” place to work. “We enable associates to be free thinkers, and every store is slightly different,” he says. “We don’t have a lot of corporate rules and procedures; just standards we try to meet. Being trusted to handle things the way you want is really refreshing.” The company also operates a unique bonus/commission system that allows associates to earn more during periods of increased productivity. Wellehan has also long been a proponent of increasing minimum wage. In 2014, he appeared in a video by the nonprofit Organizing for Action regarding the issue.
Another way Lamey Wellehan maintains a content and cohesive team starts at the hiring process. Managers focus on attitude. Skills can be taught on the job. Training is centered around three Fs: feet, footwear, and fitting. “We have our own educational program covering biomechanics, shoe construction, and proper fitting, which gives our associates a little more street cred—they earn the respect of guests who come in,” Stanley explains. Associates are also trained on its foot scanners that takes the shopping experience to another level.
Clockwise from top left: Kathy and Jim Wellehan; collecting shoes for those in need; scholarship program; employees pitch in on local trash pickup.
inflation. Hopefully, we’re getting back to the norm.” But there’s no rush. “I always joke that we’ve been around 110 years and have six stores, so at this rate of growth, in the year 2097, we should be pretty close to 20,” he says.
LOOKING AHEAD
Might there be more stores on the horizon? It’s finally feeling at least possible. “Things have been tricky since 2020,” Stanley says. “First it was Covid, the next year it was supply chain, then finding staff, then
In the meantime, business keeps chugging along. Staples like New Balance, Johnston & Murphy, Birkenstock, and Dansko form a strong base, as do foot-health products by Aetrex and Superfeet as well as work boots by Carolina, Skechers, and Keen, among others. “We have accounts with many businesses in the area who send their employees to us, and we’ll get them properly fitted into the right shoes for the job,” Stanley says, adding that the recent spike in sneakers has given the chain another revenue stream boost via brands like Hoka, On, and Brooks.
Stanley is optimistic about Lamey Wellehan’s future. He’s investing in new categories and brands to test, plus upgrading some stores. “We feel like it’s a good time to be bullish, because retail in general hasn’t been bullish for years,” he says. “It feels like time to get back to being proud of who we are and making things grow.” Stanley believes the chain has the support of the communities it serves to make investments in the future. “We’re part of our communities, part of something bigger, and are always trying our best to uphold our side of that bargain,” he says.
Lamey Wellehan’s long-running success boils down to old-fashioned Maine scrappiness and fortitude— and some luck perhaps, too. (The original owners did dole out shamrocks that first day.) Whatever the reasons, the chain is as vibrant as ever. Same goes for Wellehan, who at age 86 is purportedly retired, but still pops in regularly to check on things. “Jim likes to compare Lamey Wellehan to a bumblebee,” Stanley shares, noting that scientists have said the insects shouldn’t be able to fly. “It’s the same with Lamey Wellehan. We carry almost 200 brands and 100,000 units spread across our six stores, stretching ourselves in many directions. That’s a little heavy, but 110 years later, we’re still flying.” •
Time sure flies: opening day at the Lewiston store in March 1914; a newspaper ad from April 1981; 100th anniversary cake.
BUZZWORTHY
Celebrating its 30th anniversary, Fly London has taken flight by making comfort cool.
By Kiernan McCormick
WHEN MOST PEOPLE come across a fly, the instinct is to swat the little pest or stomp on it with a shoe. Flies are creepy and by all accounts (think Jeff Goldblum in The Fly ) downright gross. Thus, one would assume the hairy, bug-eyed insect doesn’t scream suitable logo for a footwear brand.
Unless you’re Fortunato Frederico, founder and coowner of Fly London. Because, as the brand’s origins go, he and then junior partner, Amilcar Monteiro, came across an oversized black fly logo on a booth at the GDS show in Düsseldorf, Germany, and instantly fell in love. Well, love might be a strong word, but Frederico saw big potential in Fly London. He was intensely intrigued about the possibilities. The name was catchy and irreverent. The huge black fly logo was striking. The fact that there weren’t even shoes on display—the owners had a falling out—didn’t matter. For Frederico, it was all about that name and logo. The shoes would come next. He made an offer to buy the brand on the spot. Deal!
So what if the design team at his Kyaia factory in Portugal had only made private label since opening in 1984. Frederico was chomping at the bit to make that leap into the branded arena. He reasoned that if the team could make great shoes for the brands it served, then it could for Fly London, too.
“I liked the idea that from then on, we could ‘fly,’ after 10 years of working on private label,” Frederico says. “As the logo and image were suggestive, we felt that we could explore international markets and saw a great opportunity to grow exponentially, which has been the case.”
Thirty years later, Fly London is sold in 57 countries, having made a name for itself offering comfort with ’tude styling in men’s and women’s. Its edgy collections of boot and sandal wedges have become the brand’s calling card and are perennial best-sellers. Some silhouettes, in fact, have been in the line
for 15 years, selling year after year with fresh color and material updates. Not bad for a brand that started out as a tight collection of men’s styles and moved into women’s five years later. An early hit was a multicolored lace-up boot that had a retro alpine ski vibe. (It’s been updated, pictured above, as part of the 30th anniversary celebration.) It was the brand’s first success in women’s. Frederico sensed even greater potential going forward. “A storm is usually preceded by a strong breeze,” he offers. “When we went to market, we felt this breeze and knew that the storm was just around the corner.”
Fly London caught on fast in Portugal and then quickly took hold in Germany and England, attracting a young, cutting-edge crowd in love with its chunky soles and rounded toes. Think punk-meets-grunge-meets-club goers. “It’s always been an irreverent brand with an absolute commitment to creativity,” Frederico says.
A few years into its flight, Fly London took another big leap. Frederico reached out to one of its private label customers, Bos. & Co., about distributing the brand in North America. The Canada-based company had been steering its private label customers—like Dockers, Johnston & Murphy, and Stacy Adams—to Kyaia. Kevin Bosco, president, liked what he saw from the get-go—the name, the logo, and the shoes.
“Fortunato tapped me on the shoulder at a WSA Show in Las Vegas and said, ‘We have this new brand called Fly London. Do you think you guys are set up to distribute in Canada and the United States?’” Bosco recalls. “I said, ‘Yes,’ and 30 years later, here we sit.” (Bos. & Co. has since added Kyaia’s Softinos and Asportuguesas brands to its roster.)
Fly London was exactly what Bos. & Co. was searching for at the time. Namely, a brand that fit its target distribution of higher-grade independent boutiques and chains. The consumers shopping these locations sought something edgy, yet comfortable, and wouldn’t shy away from the premium price point. Bosco was confident Fly London had long-term potential based on these
key attributes. Plus, there was Kyaia. “What we liked, first and foremost, was that we already knew the factory and the people involved,” Bosco says. “We had been working with them for several years with high-level brands, and we knew their attention to detail, quality, and reliability. Basically, we knew the shoes would be well-made.” He adds, “That made it an even easier decision.”
A GOOD BUZZ
Fly London sales have grown steadily over the years, peaking in 2019 at 100,000 pairs in North America and 1 million pairs worldwide. The distribution, for the most part, hasn’t changed, nor its target customer. It’s middle- to highgrade independents, small chains, and select department stores such as Von Maur and Nordstrom. “Macy’s and Dillard’s aren’t in our stratosphere,” Bosco says. “They’d love to have our shoes but probably at about 50 percent of the price.”
Fly London’s consumer sweet spot in North America skews 35 and up. “It’s a wide and varied group who want fashion but aren’t willing to give up comfort,” Bosco explains. The challenge is to keep the brand fresh and exciting without alienating its core audience. “We can’t go too young because then we lose the buying power,” he says. “At the same time, our target customer demands comfort aspects without looking like a typical comfort shoe. That’s not an easy recipe to cook, but we’ve got good chefs in our factory.”
Sandra Bodnarchuk, owner of Zig Zag Fashions in North Vancouver, Canada, has stocked Fly London for 25 years. Not only is she a loyal dealer, she’s also a long-time wearer. The wedges, she discovered early on, relieved her foot pain. “As you get older, the fat goes off the ball of your feet and it hurts to walk in flat-soled shoes,” she says. “Fly London’s wedges keeep my feet off the ground. I’m not pounding the pavement with every step, and the gradient is comfortable.” Bodnarchuk sartorial choice serves as effective brand marketing. “Customers often comment on my ‘cool’ shoes,” she says, adding that the Bos. & Co. “Fly Days” have been another effective tool to get the word out. Twice a year, the brand reps present the new season collections to customers along with some giveaways in her store. Shoppers who purchase Fly London on those days also receive a bright yellow shopping bag with the iconic fly logo. “That’s another strength of this brand,” Bodnarchuk says. “Their yellow shoe boxes and bags…everybody knows it’s Fly London with that big fly right in the middle. You can’t miss it.
Marketing buzz: Fly London ads from over the years celebrate its namesake in a variety of attention-grabbing ways.
Their marketing has been key to keeping them in business for 30 years.”
Fly London has great brand elasticity. It’s not pigeonholed by a particular style, category, or aesthetic. While renowned for wedges, it is one of those rare brands that sells a broad range of styles, including boots, flip-flops, slides, mules, trainers, loafers, and Mary Janes. It can even pull off Western booties without a hitch. Paulo Monteiro, product manager, says offering a wide variety is a necessity in today’s world. “Women don’t necessarily need shoes, so we need to create styles that make them think, ‘I don’t need to buy shoes, but I need to buy these shoes,’” he says. “That’s what we’re always looking for—creating shoes that women keep falling in love with.”
Great designs are a must. Equally important is Fly London’s quality construction and sustainability aspects. Kyaia uses traditional manufacturing techniques and the finest materials—all powered by 100 percent green energy and by producing minimal waste. The level of craftsmanship and care for the environment is part of the brand’s story. For example, Andre Noujaim, owner of Shoe Be Do in New Orleans, appreciates that, unlike many brands, Fly London sews on its heels instead of using harmful glues. “It extends the life of the shoes,” he says. “If someone falls in love with a pair that they can’t part with, they can be easily repaired.” Bodnarchuk adds that the Fly London’s quality is consistent. “There are no surprises. The collections evolve
over the years, but the quality of the shoes is always the same.” Adds Ricardo Esteves, sales manager of Fly London: “What’s most important for us is that even if our best-seller is 17 years old, the goal is to always reinvent it by introducing new materials, colors, and solutions—like maybe making it more sustainable.”
That commitment to excellence extends to the customer service offered by Kyaia and Bos. & Co. It has enabled Fly London to build long-lasting relationships with its retailers. Noujaim describes Fly London’s support and staffing as fantastic. “As a merchant, if there is an issue, it’s quickly resolved and there’s no complications,” he says. “Their customer service is parallel to their quality products.” Gary Malkin, president of Kaufman Shoes in Memphis, TN, a carrier of Fly London for 10 years, puts it simply: “Their culture of doing business is admirable. They’re just good people!”
FLIES IN THE OINTMENT
No brand survives 30 years without having to overcome obstacles. But the pandemic has been Fly London’s toughest challenge by far. Not only did it bring on a macro athleisure/ slippers movement seemingly overnight, it upended supply chains that Kyaia is still grappling with. The brand is still trying to recapture the momentum it had in the years leading up to 2020. The war in Ukraine also hits much closer to home for the Portuguese company. “Ukraine is something we see on TV here, but we don’t really experience the effects of it on everyday life like they are in Europe,” Bosco says. “It’s quite a different story. It’s having a negative effect on business. Costs are up, as are the fears of the war spreading.”
All one can do is keep fighting the good fight. The sentiment harkens back to the Kyaia’s founding. As legend has it, Frederico, at age 14, started working at Campeão Português, a textile company that eventually became one of the country’s largest footwear businesses. At age 24, he went on to complete his military service in Angola, near a fire base atop a mountain named Kyaia. That’s when he made a deal with God that if he ever gets out of there alive, he’ll call his shoe factory Kyaia. A picture of the fire base hangs in the factory’s main sample room.
“The path to success has always been risky, but one I have sought to follow,” Frederico says. “In the early days of Fly London, taking risks and foreseeing the future were the reasons that made us grow.” He sees no reason to change course now. “We must continue to be innovative, fashionable, and fresh.” That blueprint lies at the core of Fly London’s long-running success. “Our destiny is to grow and strengthen,” Frederico says. •
Patrizia laser cut stretch slides.
WARM SATURATED HUES PAINT A PRETTY PICTURE.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS • STYLING BY MARIAH WALKER
Platform wedge sandal by Spring Step Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Ecco lightweight jogger; mod Mary Jane by All Black; Azura acrylic heel pump; rubber wellie by Xtratuf
Clockwise from left: Elizée ruched leather strap sandals; Seychelles lark’s head knot slides; hurrache sandals by Diba True Opposite page: cowboy boots by Twisted X
Soleni Shoes orthopedic flats with adjustable ankle straps. Opposite page: mesh ballerinas by Aerosoles
Naot leather sandals. Opposite page: cork footbed sandals by Taos
Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; model: Ashley Strohein/Fenton Model Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/Ray Brown Pro; photo assistant Raymond Collette; photo and styling assistant: Eileen Viglietta. Paintings by Lawrence M. Monat.
4CCCCEES
The frst 3D foot scanning experience designed just for children. Kids shoe shopping is fnally fun!
