Footwear Plus | April/May 2024

International star appeal and female power for remonte

Elizabeth Hurley becomes the new campaign face of remonte r

emonte, a division of Rieker Shoe Corporation, is putting its best foot forward in true Hollywood style! Elizabeth Hurley, international actress and supermodel, will be the face of its worldwide “Great Women Wear Great Shoes” campaign, launching for Autumn/Winter 2024/25 in more than 10 countries.

With Hurley, remonte teams with one of the most famous British actresses and fashion icons in the world today. Her global popularity, as well as her pronounced fashion awareness, merge seamlessly with remonte’s coordinated branding to create a wide-reaching campaign that will inspire retailers and consumers alike. The overall goal being to generate more awareness among existing customers as well as introducing the brand to millions of potential new ones.

The concept of strong, fashion-conscious women—the embodiment of Hurley—is the perfect accompaniment to remonte’s range of high-quality fashion shoes. Eight exclusive looks will be highlighted in the campaign, which the actress will present in a film-like manner. Hurley’s esteemed fashion pedigree combined with her exclusivity will create desirability.

The “Great Women Wear Great Shoes” campaign will run in a variety of channels relevant to remonte’s target audience, including high-circulation print magazines, online platforms, social media, and TV. In addition, pointof-sale and digital advertising materials will be provided by remonte to ensure maximum presence in stores and online.

Stay tuned! Hurley and remonte are coming to you soon!

Rieker Shoe Corporation 800.960.0050

www.remonte.us

FEATURES

12 Ready to Pop

Rooted in sustainable design, Asportuguesas is spreading its lifestyle fashion wings.

By Greg Dutter

24 Green is the New Black

Why sacrifice style for sustainability when you no longer have to?

By Kathleen O’Reilly

DEPARTMENTS

4 Editor’s Note

6 This Just In: Paris

8 Green & Heard 16 Trend Spotting: Ballet Flats

A Note to My Younger Self

Trend Spotting: Eco Style

My Turn

Trend Spotting: Bold Soles

Upclose:

Upclose: Kids

Last Shot

On the cover: Chelsea boots made with LWG certified leather and midsoles featuring 30 percent sugarcane by Ponto

This page: Sanctuary boots feature vegetable-dyed goat leather uppers that require less water and chemicals and recycled rubber outsoles.

Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; models: Fekes/ Supreme Management, Hannah Krum/ Q Model Management; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli /Ray Brown Represents; photo assistant: Eileen Viglietta.

APRIL/MAY 2024

EDITORIAL

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Nancy Campbell

Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

Kathleen O’Reilly Fashion Editor

Rosemary O’Connell Art Director

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

Mariah Walker Style Director

Ann Loynd Burton Contributing Editor

Melodie Jeng

Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers

ADVERTISING

Noelle Heffernan

Publisher

Lizette Chin SVP/Group Publisher

Laurie Guptill Production Manager

Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director

Catherine Rosario Office Manager

Mike Hoff Digital Director

WAINSCOT MEDIA

Carroll Dowden Chairman

Mark Dowden President & CEO

Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO

OFFICES

ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656

Tel: (201) 571-2244

Ads: Noelle.Heffernan@ Wainscotmedia.com

Editorial: Greg.Dutter@ Wainscotmedia.com

CIRCULATION One Maynard Drive

Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244

Circ@Wainscotmedia.com

Milestones Matter

MILESTONES COME IN many forms. They can be personal—a big birthday, a weight loss goal, or, in my case, a cycling season’s total mileage, part of an ever-increasing lifetime milestone that recently hit 125,000 (Lycraclad) miles. Milestones can also come in the form of school graduations. For example, my daughter is receiving her BFA in Acting from Ithaca College this month. Please excuse the proud papa plug.

Milestones can also be experienced collectively—and sometimes unexpectedly. Millions of New Jersey and New York residents, for instance, felt their first earthquake in April. That’s one milestone I never want to exceed, thank you very much, Mother Nature. On the other hand, I’m all for witnessing another solar eclipse. That was a first for me, too. While it wasn’t a total eclipse from my perch in Riverside Park, it was totally cool! The bonus: standing among hundreds of people united in celestial awe. That’s a milestone of unity I wish we could enjoy far more often.

We regularly acknowledge industry milestones within the pages of Footwear Plus . Our Green & Heard section (beginning on p. 8) is chock-full of companies aiming for and hitting new milestones involving an array of sustainability initiatives. These efforts are as innovative as they are inspiring. And while the holy grail of circularity may seem a long way off, every step in the right direction is laudable. The alternative (not trying at all, giving up, or greenwashing) is unacceptable. Kudos to those who care, like Asportuguesas, our Brand Focus (p.12). The Portuguese company is driven to be as low-impact from an environmental perspective as possible. Chief Director Pedro Abrantes has been pushing the sustainability envelope ever since his clever flip-flop design won an annual contest sponsored by Amorim, the world’s biggest cork supplier. Over the ensuing eight years, Asportuguesas partnered with Kyaia (makers of Fly London) and North American distribu-

tors Bos. & Co. to steadily evolve into a quirky, comfy, eco-friendly brand. It stands out while standing for something. Over 31 years at Footwear Plus (another personal milestone), I’ve reported on my fair share of brands with potential, and Asportuguesas is one to take note of, if you haven’t already.

Then there’s our A Note to My Younger Self series, a collection of careers filled with milestones. This issue’s Note (p. 18) is no exception. Athletic/outdoor industry veteran Jim Van Dine’s impressive resume includes leadership positions at some of the biggest and most influential brands of the past three decades, including Reebok, Vans, Keen, Hoka, and Birkenstock. Those companies all hit mega-growth milestones during his tenure with them. He has the Midas touch for leading big runs.

Van Dine reflects on equally memorable personal milestones. He has interviewed more than 1,500 applicants over the course of his career, hired several hundred of them, and strived to give everyone an opportunity to succeed. There’s also Van Dine’s pre–shoe biz milestone: An elite runner in his twenties, he helped pace Bill Rogers to a world record for 25 kilometers. (That sure puts my cycling milestones into perspective.)

Of course, milestones can also take the form of recognition from colleagues. The Oscars, Grammys, and Tonys spring to mind, as do our Plus Awards recognizing excellence in design and retail. This year marks their 25th year. In honor of our own silver anniversary, we’re recognizing select major anniversary milestones in the industry. There are some real doozies, and some industry gamechangers that made me think, “Has it been that long already? I knew you when you were just a baby.” All will be revealed in our special 25th annual Plus Awards issue this September.

In the meantime, we’ll continue to feature all sorts of industry milestones in our issues because milestones matter. They deserve to be celebrated. They serve as a source of motivation, determination, and satisfaction. They inspire others to want to succeed personally and collectively. And they make for interesting, inspiring reading. That’s all for now. It’s time to clip in and log some more miles toward my next personal milestone.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Twisted X® is proud to partner with 4-H for the launch of our new 4-H Collection. 4-H demonstrates a strong commitment to environmental stewardship for the Earth and it’s inhabitants. Designed with tomorrow’s leaders in mind, this collection of footwear is constructed to tackle today’s biggest obstacles with Twisted X iconic comfort.

Tipping Point

Pointed-toe silhouettes look sharp in Paris.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

Fleks Footwear Makes a Splash

New sandal brand is made of 82 percent recycled foam. says, adding that the brand is finalizing details for a take-back program that will regrind old Fleks for use in other products. “All of that goes far beyond the greenwashed sustainability promises prevalent in so much marketing today, and all of it comes attached to a stylish product.” On that latter note, Larson says the sandal is a wardrobe staple that transitions effortlessly from day on the beach to night out. “It’s the perfect go-everywhere, do-anything slide,” she says.

LEAH LARSON HAS been in the shoe game long enough to sense when a new concept has big potential. The 30-year industry veteran and former Ugg creative director believes she’s on the cusp of that again with the founding of Fleks Footwear in partnership with Blumaka, the company that transforms foam footwear scraps from other brands into a durable, high-performance foam. All it took was for Larson to see that repurposed foam—and a lot of bugging of Blumaka Founder Stuart Jenkins, a former Deckers Brands coworker and dear friend.

“About three years ago, Stuart, the master innovator, shared with me his cutting-edge new manufacturing concept that would dramatically reduce waste, and I was immediately excited,” Larson says, noting that Blumaka’s initial focus was on OEM products and insoles. “But I saw a greater potential; I couldn’t imagine a better material for beach sandals than one that actually protects the oceans by diverting plastic from the waste stream.”

Larson had to be patient, though. Jenkins wasn’t ready to make shoes just yet. He was still finessing his manufacturing process as well as building out a 37,000-square-foot factory in El Salvador. “Once I had the idea in mind, I couldn’t let it go,” she says. “So, I did what any good friend would do: I kept bugging and bugging and bugging him. And finally, about a year-and-a-half ago, he was ready. Right then, Fleks was born, and I joined Blumaka as Chief Merchant and Creative Director.”

The debut East Beach slide (SRP: $65) is inspired by the surf culture of Southern California. The sandal’s deck and strap are made from over 80 percent proprietary FLEKSfoam, and the outsole is made with 15 percent recycled EVA. It takes just tablespoons of water per pair to manufacture. Indeed, Fleks’ sustainable design story is the difference maker for Larson. “Does the world really need another shoe company? Not necessarily,” she offers. “Does the world need more companies focused on innovation and responsibility that are willing to show their industries what is possible? Absolutely.”

Uniqueness is baked into the Santa Barbara, CA-based brand’s DNA—from the sleek shape to recycled materials to enhanced durability. “Our slides have been put through rigorous testing to ensure their cushioning holds up for over 1,000 miles, which is at least three times the industry standard,” Larson

Fleks’ blend of style, sustainability, and performance represents a culmination of Larson’s decades of industry experience. She has learned plenty along this journey. At Ugg, for example, she helped build a sense of celebration around the heritage of the product and the pure feel of wearing the shoes. “There’s an emotional element to all of that—the way the product feels and makes you feel every time you slide your foot into it,” she explains, adding, “We’re cultivating that same sense of joy and devotion with Fleks. Our slides are wildly comfortable, and they make the wearer feel comfortable in their skin, too.”

The values of fine craftsmanship and best-in-class materials—aspects Larson applied during her run with Ross & Snow—have also been baked into Fleks’ recipe. “We aren’t cutting any corners; we’re building entire new standards,” she says. “And we’re incorporating a sense of community and responsibility. Our sustainability initiatives are about the power of people working together to make a big impact, whether that’s us committing to more sustainable manufacturing and a longer-lasting product, or consumers valuing such aspects in the brands they support. We’re all in this together, and together we can build a better process, a better product, and a better world.”

Larson’s goal for this year is to get the word out about Fleks. Looking three years out, the aim is to be a recognizable brand nationwide and inspiration for other companies to raise their sustainability standards. It’s all an ongoing shoes love affair for Larson. As a kid, she recalls lusting after the latest must-have pairs. “Shoes represent something far more than just what we happen to have on our feet,” she says. “They are both a necessity and a powerful mode of self-expression.” Larson adds, “That’s what keeps me coming back to this industry: that marriage of utility and creativity.”

Leah Larson

Knock it Off!

Twisted X welcomes brands to copy its sustainability initiatives.

EARTH DAY IS every day at Twisted X Global Brands (TXGB), makers of Twisted X, Black Star, and Wrangler footwear. The Decatur, TX-based company is eight years deep in its constant pursuit to better its sustainability score across all facets of its business. That spans materials, manufacturing processes, eliminating single-use plastics in the home office, and everywhere and anywhere in between.

“We don’t consider Earth Day or Earth Month to be just a single day or month of celebration, because this is what we do 365 days of the year,” says TXGB CEO Prasad Reddy, adding that the company’s sustainability initiatives are introduced whenever they are ready, not just in April. “We don’t do it for the press, although we do appreciate any press we get as that will hopefully bring other brands into the foray and help the environment overall.”

On that note, Reddy wants Twisted X to be knocked off when it comes to its sustainability efforts. “Whenever we do something, we want to show it to others so they can also benefit from it,” he says. “We want to share all our efforts within the footwear industry, as well as any consumer goods industry. It’s for the good of the planet, so we don’t keep them proprietary to ourselves.”

TXGB’s green resume is extensive. It spans the incorporation of renewable and recyclable natural materials—such as merino wool, cork, molasses, bamboo, algae, and rice husk—into various designs. In addition, its ecoTWX

fabric is made of upcycled plastic bottles salvaged from landfills and oceans. Each pair is made of 13 bottles and, to date, more than 75 million bottles have been used. Then there’s the launch of its Zero X collection, in 2021, which is a unique, no-glue stitch construction.

Last but not all, TXGB recently rolled out its Circular Project, a new collection featuring midsoles and outsoles made from reground factory scraps that would have otherwise ended up in landfills. Each pair utilizes up to 85 percent excess foam scraps (Consumers can also return their worn-out Circular Project shoes to be reground.) “Whenever they’re ready to throw them out, we’ll recycle it into other products to continue its life cycle,” Reddy says, adding, “Someday, we hope all products can be recycled and not go into landfills or harm the environment. That’s what we keep striving for: to keep the planet as green as possible.”

That circles back to Reddy’s belief that when it comes to sustainability, there is always room for improvement. “Our goal is to keep on doing what’s right for the planet, our products, and our company,” he says. “Sustainability is an ongoing process for us; there’s no start and stop point. We must consider everything and aim for continuous improvements.” Reddy adds, “We must keep our planet clean for future generations and leave it better than we found it.”

Saucony Eco-friendly Style Set to Fly

Peregrine RFG trail runner loaded with sustainable attributes.

SAUCONY’S PEREGRINE RFG (Run

For Good) is the latest in a series of sustainable shoes released by the division of Wolverine Worldwide. Specifically designed for daily trails and casual treks, the shoe features responsibly sourced mesh, an Austin Rubber outsole made from a 50 percent blend of recycled tires, and PWRRUN BIO+ cushioning made of 30 percent sugarcane ethanol-based foam.

“The Peregrine RFG (SRP: $140) sets a new level of sustainability for Saucony by taking our award-winning Peregrine and creating a highperformance, all-trail specialist that meets our highest sustainability standards,” says Rob Griffiths, president of Saucony. “It has earned the RFG badge, indicating it has met our brand’s sustainability goals while continuing to deliver on the performance consumers need.”

The Peregrine RFG joins eco-friendly makeovers the Jazz Court RFG, crafted from seven natural materials and no plastic, and the Triumph RFG, the brand’s first performance-rooted sustainable running shoe. It’s all part of Saucony’s goal of 90 percent of all products containing organic, recycled, or renewable materials by 2025. Griffiths says the recent

introduction of its RFG Standard serves as a baseline measurement that indicates if a product meets the brand’s sustainability goals while continuing to deliver the performance consumers expect. “A product that meets these rigorous standards earns the prestigious RFG Badge, a testament to its sustainability and performance,” he says. It also informs consumers trying to decipher which products have sustainable design attributes.

Who is the RFG customer? Griffith says both performance and casual wearers are increasingly seeking products made with sustainable materials and climate-friendly business practices. That said, the eco-conscious movement is most obvious in younger generations, with Millennials and Gen Z showing a significant preference for buying such goods. And while Griffiths notes that most running lifestyle consumers will not sacrifice performance for sustainability, those who care about the environment shouldn’t have to make a choice. “The Peregrine RFG is proof that sustainability and performance can work in tandem with the added goal of ensuring that the product remains affordable,” he says. “You shouldn’t be penalized with a higher price for a product that includes sustainable materials or processes.”

Circular Project slip-ons are made from 85 percent foam scraps.

It’s a Real Kick!

Portland Art Museum celebrates cutting-edge and sustainable sneaker designs.

THE BATA SHOE MUSEUM exhibit, “Future Now: Virtual Sneakers to Cutting-Edge Kicks,” is going on the road, and the first stop is the heart of American sneaker innovation in Portland, OR. The collection of nearly 60 designs first debuted in Bata’s home base of Toronto, Canada, in May of 2022.

The exhibit pushes the boundaries of what footwear can be, spanning a mix of fashion, gaming, new media, architecture, and material arts as well as sustainable and collaborative practices. It includes works by Rem D. Koolhaas and Zaha Hadid, innovators Mr. Bailey and Salehe Bembury, designers Rick Owens, Stella McCartney, and Yohji Yamamoto, and top gaming companies like PlayStation and EA Sports. Highlights include the Nike Mag, conceived for Back to the Future Part II by Tinker Hatfield, MSCHF’s Big Red Boots, and EKTO’s One VR robotic boots.

“Each of the sneakers were chosen not only for what they’re doing today, but how their design might change what we wear in the future,” says Elizabeth Semmelhack, director and senior curator of the Bata Shoe Museum, adding that sneakers are a focus of innovation because of the requirements of elite athletes that have long driven designers to experiment with new ideas and materials. “Today the popularity of sneakers is driving innovation to meet broader concerns, such as more sustainable manufacturing processes and materials. The cultural importance of sneakers also inspires creatives to push the envelope of design. It has even brought them into the metaverse.”

Future Now features sections on innovation, sustainability, transformative design, and virtual shoes. It includes digitally designed and 3-D printed shoes made from renewable materials and reclaimed ocean plastics. Semmelhack says 3-D footwear, in particular, presents several sustainable design attributes. “First, 3-D printing produces less waste as it’s an additive rather than subtractive process, meaning that shoe components aren’t being cut out of material leaving cutoffs behind,” she explains. “3-D printing also offers the possibility of made-to-order production, reducing the potential for wasteful over production.” Semmelhack adds that another important part of the exhibit’s sustainability story is the use of eco-friendly materials like the featured Nat-2 sneakers made of mushroom leather. “Julian Zach’s

conceptual piece imagines us growing our own shoes using mycelium, the root structure of fungus, at home,” she adds.

Unique to this presentation of the exhibit is a collaboration with Doernbecher Freestyle, celebrating its 20th year of partnership between OHSU Doernbecher Children’s Hospital and Nike. This partnership pairs Doernbecher patient-designers with Nike designers to create footwear that brings each patient’s vision and story to life—with 100 percent of the sales profits donated to the children’s hospital.

“This exhibition expands the possibilities of what footwear design can be, presenting the future right at our feet,” says Amy Dotson, curator of Film & New Media for the Portland Art Museum. “The show is a love letter to all of the artists, storytellers, designers, and visionaries who dare to think differently—many who live and work right here in Portland, the shoe capital of the United States.”

As for a personal exhibit favorites, Semmelhack cites the Goodyear sneaker from the 1890s because it’s a “perfect example” of what the exhibition is trying to explore. “I love that it looks so humble, but in the 1890s rubber was a cutting-edge material, and in this seemingly unremarkable sneaker are the seeds of future sneaker culture,” she says. Another fave: Steven Smith’s Instapump Fury, released by Reebok in 1994. “It was such remarkable exercise in stripping away everything that isn’t necessary to achieve a lightweight, performance running shoe,” she says, adding that it’s still seen as a radical design 30 years later. Last but not all, Semmelhack cites the auto-lacing 2015 Nike MAG, a visionary movie prop that could only be made into reality decades later; the “marvel” that is Mr. Bailey’s Octopus shoe; and Scry’s digitally-designed and 3-D printed shoe that points to new directions for sneaker design. “(The latter) is fully wearable and opens our eyes to what could be brought to scale, if we dare,” she says, adding that, “I have a deep appreciation for each of the shoes on display.”

On that note, Semmelhack hopes visitors leave the exhibit (runs through Aug. 11, 2024) with a greater appreciation of the creativity and innovation taking place in the footwear space, as well as realizing that the future is already right at their feet. “I couldn’t imagine a better place than Portland for this exhibit, a city where so much innovation in sneaker design happens,” she says.

EKTO One VR robotic boots

Goodyear Manufacturing Company

Metapigeon K-Minus

Mr. Bailey Octopus

Nike MAG

Scry 3-D printed shoe

Dr. Martens Launches Circularity Initiatives

The goal: net-zero by 2040.

DR. MARTINS IS aiming to come full circle, one meaningful eco-friendly program at a time. The latest two circularity initiatives are the Genix Nappa collection (made from reclaimed leather) and ReWair, the company’s first resale platform in the U.S.

Genix Nappa leather is made from offcuts taken from tanneries that would otherwise be destined for landfills. The scraps are put through a process to separate the leather fibers before re-entagling them, producing re-engineered leather that the company claims produces a lower carbon impact than traditional leather and is just as durable and comfortable. The collection features remakes of original classics: the 1460 boot ($170), 1461 three-eyelet oxford ($140), and 2976 Chelsea boot ($170).

“We’ve been taking steps forward in our journey towards circularity, and Genix Nappa is a great example,” says Tuze Mekik Arguedas Schwank, global head of Sustainability at Dr. Martens. “It demonstrates that waste is a valuable resource and shows how we can think differently about our products into the future.”

Adds Adam Meek, chief product officer: “The innovation around this new material is pretty special, and we’ve challenged ourselves at every step of the process to ensure the durability Dr. Martens are so famous for isn’t compromised.”

Genix Nappa launched with 5,000 pairs on Dr Martens’ DTC channel to test consumer appetite. Depending on how it’s received will determine if the collection expands to retail partners.

Sustainability through longevity is also a key focus for Dr. Martens. Thus, the debut of ReWair, a resale platform aimed at restoring second-hand Dr. Martens footwear and bags to extend their usable life. The products come from returned, damaged, or defective items that reclamation and resale logistics services partner, Terra Solutions, authenticates, inspects, cleans (via its proprietary closed-loop liquid CO2 deep cleaning process), and restores. The items are then resold on rewair.drmartens.com. Products that can’t be resold will be sent to next best use, like donation or recycling. Wearers can also trade-in their worn Dr. Martens products for a $20 discount voucher on new purchases over $100 at company flagships in Portland, OR, and Los Angeles. The pilot program could expand to additional retailers as well as a mail-in program.

“ReWair is an exciting step towards a more circular future for Dr. Martens,” states Anna Wickes, recommerce director. “Timeless design and durability have always been core to our brand, and we’re passionate about offering resale to our U.S. wearers.”

OrthoLite Unveils Breakthrough Material

ORTHOLITE LAUNCHED CIRQL, a 100-percent biodegradable and compostable foam cushioning midsole alternative to EVA, to great fanfare in March 2022. It marked the start of addressing a really big industry problem: Every year, billions of shoes end up in landfills worldwide, most of which contain harmful, man-made plastics and glues that pollute the environment for millennia. There has to be more sustainable solutions.

OrthoLite is now taking that effort to the next level with the Q2 2024 debut of Cirql rTPU30, a patented material made with 30 percent post-consumer recycled TPU and manufactured through a chemical-free, super-critical foaming process. It includes a co-molded TPU outsole option, a glueless, single material bottom unit. (Cirql rTPU30can also be conventionally bonded to all current outsoles on the market.)

How big of a potential game-changer is Cirql rTPU30? Matt Thwaites, vice president and general manager of Cirql, believes it’s huge. “The challenge has always been to meet the required specifications for midsoles, which are very demanding with a product that contains post-consumer recycled materials,” he says. “We’ve worked hard to successfully bridge the gap with Cirql rTPU30, and there are new technologies emerging that will allow us to one day reach 100-percent recycled content while meeting the same performance specs as virgin materials.”

In the meantime, Cirql rTPU30 marks a big step toward that goal. Not only has the material received Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certification, the fact that it involves the midsole makes for a huge impact, according to Thwaites. Specifically, he says 30 percent recycled TPU by weight in the midsole is close to 100 percent by weight for an upper made of recycled content, like plastic water bottles. “That’s a lot!” he says, adding that the next step towards circularity will be to partner with brands on take-back programs and recycle the midsole and bottom units into a recycled polymer and back into midsoles. “This process will give us the closed loop circularity that’s been part of our vision since Cirql’s inception.”

Until then, every bit of plastic recycled and repurposed counts. “The common goal is keeping the waste out of the landfills and getting it to the recycling centers where they can process it into new materials for us,” Thwaites says. “We’re limited only by the amount of recycled material available.”

It’s one reason why Thwaites is confident many of OrthoLite’s 550-plus brand partners will opt for Cirql rTPU30 midsole/TPU outsole combination. It’s easier and cleaner. “One of the challenges of end-of-lifecycle recycling is dealing with mixed materials and adhesives,” he explains. “Our Cirql rTPU30 foam midsole molded to a TPU outsole is fully recyclable and eliminates the entire bonding process.” The durable TPU outsole should also last the lifetime of the shoe. “The manufacturing process uses less water and energy compared to conventional rubber, and it’s an automated process that reduces labor,” he adds. “We believe the co-molded outsole creates a lot of value for brands and consumers at a competitive price.”

OrthoLite is not blowing green smoke; all compliance standards and claims pass certified third-party tests. Cirql currently has 29 patents filed worldwide of which 16 are in effect. So far, so good on the feedback for Cirql rTPU30, Thwaites reports. “There’s a level of amazement that we can get this amount of recycled material into a high-quality and comfortable foam,” he says. “We’re expecting that the demand will be immediate.”

Matt Thwaites

READY TO POP

Rooted in sustainable design, Asportuguesas is spreading its lifestyle fashion wings.

By Greg Dutter

ASPORTUGUESAS STARTED WITH a cork-based flip-flop in early 2016. To be precise, the Portuguese brand’s origins date back a few months prior, at the drawing table of avid surfer Pedro Abrantes, then a recent architect graduate, and now the brand’s Chief Director. His Base flip-flop design won an annual contest run by Amorim, the world’s largest cork producer, seeking innovative ideas that used the natural, recyclable, and renewable material.

While minimal in design, that flip-flop held big potential. Not only would its cork/latex soles be fully sustainable, they’d be lightweight, comfortable, flexible, and water-friendly. Add Abrantes’ eye-catching wavy sole design, and this combination of unique attributes had potential appeal to a worldwide audience spanning all ages and demographics. After all, flipflops are a universal footwear language—most everyone has at least one pair. Abrantes fittingly named his brand Asportuguesas, which translates to “the Portuguese.” Hello, world.

But Abrantes’ prototype held much greater potential. His unique design had the DNA to evolve into a potentially much bigger, broader, sustainable-based, lifestyle fashion brand—and that is exactly what is happening at Asportuguesas. Back then, the stars were just beginning to align. Abrantes might not have envisioned this trajectory when he submitted that first design, but it’s clear to him now. “We make shoes that make our customers feel good about themselves when wearing them,” he says. “Not just because of the looks and comfort, but because they also have a lower impact on our planet.”

That clever flip-flop design quickly caught the attention of Kyaia, one of Portugal’s largest footwear manufacturers and makers of Fly London. In 2017, the company partnered with Amorim Cork Ventures to provide the necessary footwear expertise to take Asportuguesas global and expand the collection into a broader range of styles. That’s when Kevin Bosco, president of Bos. & Co.,

Clip

slip-ons feature elastic recycled knit uppers and cork/latex outsoles.

long-time North American distributors of Fly London, entered the picture. He too saw potential, and his interest grew exponentially when he caught his first glimpse of the closed-toe styles “City” and “Come,” which were in the pipeline.

“The cork flip-flops were an interesting idea about responsible sourcing, but what really piqued our interest was when Kyaia’s design team and Pedro came out with the next step—these boiled wool uppers on a wavy, thicker cork bottom with an offset toe last,” Bosco says. “That really caught our eye.”

In early 2018, Bos. & Co., makers of a namesake label and distributors of Softinos and Ambitious, signed on to introduce Asportuguesas to North America. The flip-flops made their debut that spring, followed by the closedtoe styles in the fall. Bosco’s product instincts were spot-on. The flip-flops received a nice reaction within a limited distribution, which might have also marked an industry first: a Canada-based company introducing a new flip-flop brand. Then the closed-toe styles popped at retail. “That’s when Asportuguesas caught on fire,” he says. “People loved the toe shape, the sustainability story, the colors, and the thick cork sole.” Over the next three months, the brand got a great deal of traction, and distribution across the United States spread. “Certainly, the Northeast and the Pacific Northwest, where many eco-conscious consumers reside, embraced the brand,” Bosco says. “With the initial sales and the turnover, we knew we had a tiger by the tail.”

Then fate, in the form of a pandemic, stepped in to fuel Asportuguesas’ growth. The seemingly overnight onset of remote workplaces and social distancing fueled a slipper craze. Sales of the brand’s closed-toe styles skyrocketed. “Despite our efforts to tell people that these are street-friendly shoes, they became de facto house slippers for many,” Bosco explains. “The comfort and coziness of those styles, not to mention their appealing sustainability angle, played well into that whole consumer mentality.” It’s a mentality, he adds, that is only getting stronger post-pandemic. “In 2019, our Asportuguesas customer was a very eco-conscious, granola type, but that has since expanded to include a much more everyday person,” he says, citing the overall shift to more casual dressing as a factor. “But we’re also gaining traction when we talk about sustainability. It means a lot more to many more consumers than it did five or 10 years ago.”

SECRET SAUCE

Sustainability, comfort, and the right shoe at the right time have been key factors fueling Asportuguesas’ growth to date. But there are other, perhaps less tangible, ingredients involved, too. Much has to do with the brand’s utilitarian chic aesthetic, a.k.a. the sweet spot between function and fashion. Or, and this is a compliment, Americans love “ugly comfort” shoes. Think Ugg, Crocs, Vibram FiveFingers, Hoka, Keen, Hunter, and Birkenstock, to cite just a few examples. First, they are conversation starters. Second, they’re (usually) designed to improve wearers’ lives, providing protection from the elements or injury prevention, pain relief, and improved performance. Consumers want

technology to offer solutions. And the sustainable design angle is a bonus, as growing numbers of consumers look for purchases that help to save the planet.

Asportuguesas is exactly what John Daher, owner of The Shoe Box in Kennebunkport, ME, was on the hunt for when he opened his doors two years ago. The long-time former product development director for Clarks North America and later Drydock Footwear had gone back to his retailing roots with the mission of making shoe shopping interesting and fun again. He focused primarily on European comfort brands with unique styling and interesting back stories to tell customers. Think more art gallery than stack ’em and sell ’em. Asportuguesas fits to a T.

“Asportuguesas checks all the boxes in our mission,” Daher says, noting that the brand has been in the store’s assortment from day one. “It’s been one of our best sellers year-round, and the brand has become a local favorite. It can be seen worn in coffee shops and to and from fitness classes all over town.”

Daher cites Asportuguesas’ quirky styling, fun colors, and textures as being the perfect complement/alternative to other, more mainstream brands that are currently trending, i.e. Birkenstock and Onfoot. “I believe the wool uppers provide more functional attributes than leathers and so-called vegan materials,” he says, noting that the eco-friendly aspects of cork and boiled wool are a key selling feature. “However, the product needs to deliver on styling, comfort, and price, as eco-friendly cannot be the only selling point,” Daher adds. “Asportuguesas delivers on all of those aspects. The brand is at the forefront—and is a great blueprint—for the future of sustainable footwear.”

Kamilah Muhammad, store manager at Street Feet in Santa Fe, NM, says the team was initially attracted to Asportuguesas’ quirky styling. Then weartesting sealed the deal. “We fell in love with the comfort; we’ve dubbed them the ‘sweatpants of shoes,’ and every staff member owns at least one pair,” she reports, adding, “Asportuguesas is one of those shoes that you reach for every day.”

Similar to The Shoe Box, Street Feet is on the hunt for unique merchandise with a focus on comfort lifestyle. That includes Arcopedico, Cydwoq, On, Naot, and Rieker, among others. The store brought Asportuguesas into that mix in the fall of 2019. “From the start, they were a hit in our store,” Muhammad reports. “The City wool clog is our number-one seller but, over the years, we’ve carried a variety of their styles (includes the Cana and Coly sandals), and have done well with all of them.” As for the Asportuguesas customer, she says the brand mirrors Street Feet’s diverse customer base. “Most of our customers are at least curious about the brand, and we’ve sold them to almost every type of person imaginable,” she says, adding that sustainability is a key selling point. “That’s definitely a huge bonus to our customers, and we love supporting brands that are socially and/or environmentally conscious.”

GREEN FOR GOOD

Unlike a lot of brands that may be dabbling in sustainability because it’s fashionable or, worse, others that are making false claims, Asportuguesas is all-in and transparent on its eco-friendly agenda. That isn’t going to change; sustain-

Pedro Abrantes, chief director, Asportuguesas

ability is the heart of Asportuguesas.

“Asportuguesas has been 100 percent sustainable right from the start,” Abrantes affirms. “Cork is the DNA of our brand, but our mission is to inspire people to live a more fulfilled and conscious life with every step. We’re determined to leave a mark—from the choice of materials to the way we produce and communicate our products—by using the least amount of natural resources and maintaining our carbon footprint as low as possible.”

Being green isn’t easy, nor is it getting easier, according to Abrantes. “Despite the offer of eco-friendly raw materials increasing in the market, brands have to be very careful and analyze the impact of the production of these materials,” he explains. “How are they made, where are they made, what are they really made from, etc.? All of this has an impact on our planet.” In addition, he says quality and durability are top concerns. “Our goal is to produce quality, eco-friendly footwear that lasts, because people have to realize that, now more than ever, they have to buy less and buy better.”

Like the new Close boot. It features a combined upper of boiled wool and water-resistant nylon made from 70 percent recycled cotton obtained from treated and reoperated textile remains. The remaining 30 percent is made of Ecovero, a special spin-dyeing process material in which color pigments are directly incorporated in the fibers. This can eliminate the need for additional downstream dyeing steps, resulting in up to 50 percent less energy and water consumption, while achieving up to a 60 percent reduction in carbon footprint compared to conventional dyeing. Additionally, the Lenzingmade Ecovero’s viscose dyeing process comes from certified renewable sources of wood. “This material goes hand-in-hand with our overall sustainability story,” Bosco says, adding, “The quality and performance of the materials are the same, if not better, than non-sustainable alternatives.”

Asportuguesas’ efforts are not made any easier amid all the greenwashing. That only confuses consumers and could turn many off to sustainable designs all together. For example, Abrantes cites brands that are launching one product in their line with some sort of sustainable material, or including an element of sustainable packaging. It’s often more a gimmick than a meaningful impact.

“While it’s good that some brands are realizing the need to become more ecofriendly, many of them do this just to catch the public’s attention,” he says. Abrantes believes consumers, overall, are slowly paying more attention to sustainable design, especially younger generations. However, he says there is still a lot of work to be done.

In the meantime, Bosco gives major props to Asportuguesas’ commitment to sustainability, which is not easy to do or communicate. “You’ve got to use waterbased cements and find sustainable materials that actually perform, and you have to back check all of your sourcing,” he says. That’s a lot of additional work, and with all the greenwashing going on that involves skipping many of those steps, it only makes it more difficult to inform consumers that we’re on the up and up.” Asportuguesas, Bosco adds, is fighting the good fight, and it won’t give up. “Every aspect of Asportuguesas features a sustainability component. That is our mantra, and we’re sticking to it. It’s not just one shoe, or one component in a shoe; it’s the entire brand philosophy, and it’s important to tell that story.”

NEXT CHAPTERS

The push now is to make Asportuguesas more of an outdoor brand. That includes this fall’s launch of the Oak, its first rain boot and made entirely of its proprietary cork/latex compound. “It’s an innovative project where we fully inject the material of our outsoles in one single piece,” Abrantes explains. “There are many options on the market, but all are made from PVC. This is the first sustainable rain boot.”

Bosco says the Oak joins a roster of outdoor-suitable styles that includes the Fluff boots collection made of recycled nylon uppers and the Cora knee-high boot made of boiled wool. In addition, there are casual sneakers featuring cork soles and cotton uppers, a boat shoe-meets-Wallabee wool lace-up, and a slew of eco-friendly slip-ons and sandals. “Taking the product out of the home is our main goal now, and where we see the brand heading,” Bosco says. “Certainly, it’ll take some time to do that over the next two to three years. We’re just getting started, having just introduced new boots for fall.”

Bosco is confident Asportuguesas’ has all the necessary brand ingredients to continue to flourish indoors and out. It starts with that proprietary cork/ latex outsole blend, which is more flexible than cork soles. “There’s no break-in period with our soles,” he says. “You can walk to your heart’s content right out of the box.” Asportuguesas is also more affordable compared to the leading cork-soled brand on the marketplace. “We’re miles below Birkenstock in price. Our City and Come close-toe styles, for example, are in the same league as Halfinger,” Bosco says. Last but not all, he cites Asportuguesas’ underground status—a fresher alternative to mainstream Euro comfort brands. “We’re younger, hipper, thicker, greener…we’ve got that quirky, funky, sustainable vibe going for us,” he notes. “It’s a great story to tell.”

Street Feet’s Muhammad believes Asportuguesas is just scratching the surface of its potential. “From the beginning, we’ve expanded the line year-over-year,” she says. “As long as they continue to update styles, colors, and sustainable materials, we think there’s strong growth potential going forward.”

Abrantes, for one, believes Asportuguesas holds huge growth potential in North America and beyond. And while he says the product speaks for itself, an investment in communicating the brand’s unique value proposition is needed. That story centers on cork. “We need to explain more efficiently the story behind this rich and noble raw material,” he says. Like, for example, how cork is a 100-percent plant tissue, a single cubic centimeter contains almost 40 million cells, and it takes each cork oak tree 25 years before it can be stripped for the first time. And how cork oak forests protect against erosion and desertification, and play an important role in the regulation of the hydrological cycle. And how cork bark is locally and manually extracted every nine years without harming the tree. And how these trees have an incredible capacity to absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. (One ton of cork absorbs 72 tons of carbon dioxide.)

“When we properly explain the unique characteristics of cork and all the sustainable processes behind the making of our shoes, the consumer immediately understands the value of Asportuguesas,” Abrantes says, adding, “Our unique designs may catch the attention of consumers, but it’s when they hear this incredible story that they fall in love with our product.”

Of course, that brand recipe is not complete without the comfort and quirkiness that has brought Asportuguesas to the dance. Abrantes, the head chef, isn’t changing those key ingredients. “We want people to look at our shoes and identify straight away that’s Asportuguesas,” he says. “And we’ll keep creating innovative designs and carrying on efforts to include mix in new sustainable materials and best practices.” Abrantes adds, “At the end of the day, our shoes have to look good, and consumers have to feel good wearing them.” •

Tree 2 trainers feature cotton uppers and cork/latex outsoles.

Valentina Rangoni

Manitobah

Chinese Laundry

Ponto

Sanctuary

Patrizia

RUNNING DOWN A DREAM

Industry veteran Jim Van Dine, looks back on a record-setting career with plenty left in the tank.

DEAR JIM… Well, you finally decided to move on from your dream of being a world-class distance runner. After nearly five years of trying to recover from that injury you suffered pacing Bill Rogers to a world record, your body never allowed you to return to a full training schedule. But that time wasn’t wasted. Perseverance is what Dad always drilled into you, and he was right. You would’ve wondered your whole life if you didn’t give it a shot. Pursuing sports at the highest level has been a wonderful experience and stimulated life-altering behaviors—like goal setting, discipline, hard work, and continuous improvement. And let’s not forget the many great friends made and tremendous fun had along the way.

Now you’re 30 years old and you’ve come to another major life decision: You’re not going back to social work or teaching. Instead, you’re moving across the country to become a Field Promotions Manager—and employee number 14—at Reebok. It marks the start of a long and successful career in the footwear industry. It will span C-suite stops at some of the most influential brands of the coming three decades, including Vans (VP of sales), Keen (cofounder/president); Ahnu (cofounder/CEO), Hoka (president); and, most recently, Birkenstock, where you come out of early retirement to help out. You have a knack for big runs. Perhaps it’s in your DNA? Still, you feel a bit guilty right now, chasing financial security rather than committing to improving the world. Remember when you used to flip-off the business building in college? Well, life changes you. But you’ll soon discover that a successful business can be a force for a lot of good in the world.

you can set an example that being successful in business doesn’t mean you’re selfish or uncaring. In fact, the more success you achieve, the more you’ll be able to share your success with worthy causes, as well as encourage others on your team to do the same.

The Company You Keep: You’ll work with many people over the course of your career. They’ll include great leaders, thinkers, and managers. Identify the most successful people, and learn as much as possible from them. You’ll also witness selfishness, short-sightedness, and some actions that border on evil. Learn from all of it.

Hire Power: You’ll interview more than 1,500 people and hire hundreds over the years. They’re some of the most important decisions you’ll make. Give them equal respect and opportunity. Don’t be afraid to trust your gut. Seeing hires grow and succeed will be your greatest business accomplishment—and what makes you most proud.

The business world is fast-paced, uber-competitive, and (often) team-oriented. You’re well-suited for the speed, smarts, and strength it demands. Sure, it’ll be overwhelming at times traveling the world, meeting all kinds of people, and facing challenges that you can’t imagine right now. But you’ll need to catch up quick to those who’ve had a big head start. Just run hard and try your best. You can do it! But a good coach helps, so here are some tips for the road ahead.

Father Knows Best: Dad was tough and controlling. But it turns out, he was right most of the time. Keep in mind the valuable life lessons he shared regarding perseverance, loyalty, fairness, humor, generosity, trust, and teamwork. And don’t let anyone push you around.

Fortunate Son: You’re lucky. Born in California to loving parents who provided a solid homelife, you’re white, male, and healthy. Off the blocks, you’re in the top tier of expected good fortune. Many lack such advantages. Don’t ever forget that. Do your best to provide opportunities to women, people of color, and all the under-privileged.

Give Back: You need not commit to a life of social work to provide great value to others. You can teach, share, inspire, and coach. And

Room to Grow: Focus on always improving. You can only do this if you’re honest in assessing your own skills, talents, and behaviors.

Yin and Yang: Your greatest strengths can also be great weaknesses. You’re smart, confident, love to tell stories, and have a great sense of humor. But those traits can be interpreted as smug or unfocused. The higher the corporate ladder you climb, the more a fine line this becomes. You also have a tendency to resist authority. That can be good in developing your own ideas, but it can be viewed as uncooperative. So always be respectful to company leadership. Lastly, the smartest people don’t always win. There are many other qualities to develop beyond industry knowledge. It’s not just about what you know; it’s also about what you do and how you treat people. EQ is as important as IQ.

Winning Pretty: You’re over-the-top competitive. It leads to much success, but you don’t have to make everything a competition, and you don’t have to win every time.

Team Works: Collaboration with stakeholders almost always provides the best solution. Never make unilateral decisions.

The Long Run: At times you’ll think the race is over, but major opportunities come later in life. Life is a marathon. Learn to pace yourself.

Family Ties: Stay true to the values Mom and Dad taught. Family is more important than anything. You’ll only succeed and enjoy life because your family is there to support and enjoy it with you. And you’ll get the best of both worlds: your future (lovely) wife will be a long-time work partner. You’re a lucky man!

Keep on Rockin’!: Stick with the guitar. You’ll get pretty good. You’ll even play professional gigs. Who knows where life might take us next!

Gotta run,

Jim

Jim Van Dine paces Bill Rogers on his way to breaking the 25 kilometer world record in 1979.

Supportive, Flexible, Innovative, Ultra Lightweight

We began the design of hälsa by anatomically designing an insole using Equilibrium+ technology to define comfort and support to a new level.

Every pair of hälsa shoes have cushioning for shock absorption, heel cups for proper alignment of ankle, knee, back and arch support to help relieve the inflammation and pain of plantar fasciitis.

The result is an innovative collection of lightweight, casual footwear that is supportive, flexible, and comfortable.

MR. CLEAN

Sustainable materials elevate seamless sneaker style for guys.

GODZILLA IS A SHAPESHIFTER

Mark Jubelirer, president of Reyers Shoes, on why the playing field between independents and internet behemoths may finally be leveling.

ONCE UPON A TIME in America, shoe retailers had a decision to make: to sell online or not?

Many of my brick-and-mortar brethren weighed the pluses and minuses as we could best envision them. Online retailing represented a new frontier of boundless customer reach and 24-7 operations, albeit fraught with many financial risks and unknowns. We did the math as best we could; was there an achievable non-zero ROI great enough to persuade us to take the plunge?

The historical calculus was of no utility here. Before Internet Godzilla, we more or less knew what we were doing. The variables were consistent: should we add a new vendor to our matrix, or a new color in a good-selling style, or take bigger markdowns on slow movers, or give this person a raise, or fire that slacker, and the like. This is what it meant to be a merchant. You made your best-educated guesses about myriad questions every day. You had to do the retail math, and the longer your doors have been open is a testament to having those skills. Collectively, we’d been fighting this Bottom Line Godzilla for a long time.

But Godzilla is a shapeshifter. Internet Godzilla is a completely different beast. He flipped the playing field on its end. For starters, few, if any, major online dealers charged for shipping. Consumers could buy as much as they desired—and send it all back for free if they weren’t satisfied! So let’s say a woman’s optimum size is an 8 medium but, just to be safe, she also orders that style in 7 ½ and 8 ½ mediums. And, while she’s at it, she adds a few extra colors in that style to see which shade works best with her outfits. Remember, it’s no cost to her, global footprint repercussions be damned! That carefree convenience became intoxicating. Additionally, Internet Godzilla offered seemingly unlimited inventories, low prices, and service that was just good enough. It bent the enduring arc of our brick-and-mortar universe. How could we compete? Would we all eventually be squashed by Internet Godzilla?

But the world turns. Times change. Internet Godzilla’s accountants are now convincing management that enough is enough on the free shipping perk. Now that much of the competition has been slayed, radical refinement is possible. It’s starting with shedding repeat return offenders. The number-crunchers are confident that ROI

will increase dramatically. That more profit can be achieved on less volume. Basically, they’re saying to these returns-happy customers: “We don’t need you; we don’t even want you!”

Indeed, free shipping has done its dirty deed. The enormous volume it helped generate has thinned out the competition. They own virtually the entire playing field now. But Internet Godzilla without the might of unlimited free returns may give us survivors a chance to get in the online game with only one hand tied behind our backs. And one day soon, Internet Godzilla might start charging for freight, too. That should loosen the restraints upon us little guys even more. Oh, happy day!

Internet Godzilla has dined upon our communal carcass for decades. He’s been ferocious and unrelenting. But the playing field is leveling, and it soon may be time for us to start nibbling at his ankles—if we’re still around.

BOY TOYS

Aerosoles moto boots featuring leather uppers by Be Green Tannery.

Cactus leather riding boots by O2 Monde

Opposite page: Twisted X cowboy boots featuing recycled foam footbeds and ecoTWEED recycled plastic linings.

Wildling waterproof hi-tops made from 100 percent virgin wool, 75 percent recycled plastic membranes, and synthetic rubber outsoles containing 15 percent recycled cork.

Responsibly sourced, full-grain leather waterproof riding boots by Ariat Opposite page: Green ReActives ankle boots with 100 percent recycled polyester and plastic bottles uppers, EVA midsoles injected with sugarcane, and non-marking rubber outsoles.

Asportuguesas boots feature natural wool knit and recycled nylon uppers with cork/latex outsoles. Opposite page: snow boots made with biodegradable insulation and RCS certified recycled textiles uppers by Ecco

Astral hemp and recycled polyester hikers. Chukkas featuring LWG certified leather and water-based glue by Manitobah

Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; models: Fekes/ Supreme Management, Hannah Krum/ Q Model Management; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli /Ray Brown Represents; photo assistant: Eileen Viglietta.

Passion Play

Ayelet Lax Levy, founder of Ayelet by Naot, takes heeled comfort to the next level. By

Greg Dutter

THE IDEA OF couture comfort in heeled styles has been simmering in Ayelet Lax Levy’s mind for decades. In fact, 20 years ago when Lax Levy was attending footwear design school in England, she developed a prototype line. But the idea went on the back burner after she joined Yaleet, U.S. distributors of Naot, then managed by her father, Steve Lax. Success got in the way. She rose through the ranks and, since 2019, has served as Naot’s President of U.S. Operations. Still, that original idea kept percolating. Lax Levy decided to go for it with the Fall/Winter ’24 launch of Ayelet by Naot, a fusing of the Israeli brand’s comfort aspects with high-end Italian craftsmanship and materials.

She believes the timing for her new line is ideal. “Women learned to embrace comfort during the pandemic, but now they’re wanting to dress up more,” she says. “They’re looking for the perfect shoe that combines both style and comfort, and I believe you shouldn’t have to give up one for the other.”

It starts with an old-world sacchetto construction, which offers a fit like fine leather gloves, Lax Levy says. Layered onto that are insoles featuring advanced materials and constructions found in many Naot styles. That includes breathable padding for enhanced heel support and shock absorption, arch support, and extra padding under the ball of the foot. Last but not least: all-weather ABS heels combined with TPU outsoles that are lightweight, flexible, and durable. Then there are the luxe finishing touches. That includes hand-selected materials and matching jeweled embellishments on the heel cups, zippers, and buckles. “It’s all about quiet luxury, which is classic, subtle design,” Lax Levy says. “Each heel, for example, matches in color to the upper. Every detail has been taken into consideration.” Indeed, it’s a blend of the best of both worlds. “We incorporated the knowledge of comfort from our Naot development team with our Italian team’s knowledge of craftsmanship and materials to create an ultimate luxury comfort feel,” she says. “It’s a unique level of comfort, and truly the perfect shoes.”

Just ask the women working for Naot, which Lax Levy describes as a tough crowd to please. “These women wear Naot all day, so their feet are pampered,” she says. “To get the look of a luxury fashion heel that also passed the comfort test was not an easy task. But our team made it happen.” Lax Levy includes herself in that test group. “My feet have been pampered by Naot comfort for as long as I can remember,” she says. “Putting on any other shoes has been subpar, especially dress heels. Not anymore.”

Ayelet by Naot received a similar positive response from consumers during a try-on preview at select stores. “Despite knowing the delivery would take a few months, lots of the consumers, mostly women in the 40s, pre-purchased shoes on the spot,” she reports, adding, “There’s this ‘wow’ moment when

women realize they can get the look they want with the comfort they didn’t know was possible.”

Lax Levy describes the debut collection as very classic. “We created a core line that we’ll build around—styles that can take you from day to evening,” she says. “For example, I recently wore our Margot pointed-toe pump with a 2.5-inch triangular heel in black classic suede with a pair of jeans during the day and then paired it with a black-tie dress for a wedding that same night.” Going forward, Lax Levy says the Spring/ Summer ’25 line will expand to a wider assortment of styles, including some more “pizazz and sparkle,” along with some new heel heights.

For something that took 20 or so years to come to fruition, Lax Levy is content to be patient. She is aiming for sustainable growth, which is how Naot became a cornerstone comfort brand in the U.S. “We want to crawl, walk, run,” she says. “Start small and build gradually. I believe this brand will foster a passionate and loyal fan base.”

What might a woman’s design perspective bring to Ayelet by Naot? Well, most of the designers of heel styles are men. In fact, I had a friend attend the MICAM show with me recently and she asked why is it that so many middle-age men make the decisions on women’s shoes? Having grown up in the industry, I’d never questioned it before. It’s just how it was. But her simple observation stuck with me. So having a team made up of multiple women allows us to bring a perspective not only from the design and manufacturing sides, but also from the consumer side. We know what we want, need, and love.

On that note, do you have a favorite style in the collection? While all our shoes are beautiful, I’ve been wearing the Margot pumps and Robin ankle booties often. I’ve been stopped on the street several times and asked where they can get these shoes. I can’t tell you how good that feels.

Who is the Ayelet by Naot woman? Someone who’s not willing to compromise. Her age spans from 35 to 70. She may have meetings at work, or is attending social events, and wants to wear an elegant, but comfortable, heel style. She’s also looking for shoes that will last, and when she finds something she loves, she’ll buy multiple pairs. Younger women, in particular, are prioritizing comfort and are willing to make that investment—if the shoe is right.

The Margot pumps feature a 2.5-inch triangular heel.

Ayelet by Naot styles feature high-end Italian leathers and craftsmanship.

How has the response been from retailers so far—any particular styles trending strongly?

Our Mary Jane and kitten heel styles have proven to be stronger than initially expected. Additionally, styles featuring metallic or burgundy elements have performed exceptionally well.

Where do you envision Ayelet by Naot in three years? I believe our shoes will end up on red carpets and we’ll have a devoted following. Great product sells itself. But some great marketing helps, too. We’re working on that now.

You already have full-time job managing Naot and you’re a full-time mom. Why take on more? I’ve always liked a good challenge, and I love to create. Also, having children inspires me to work and push harder. They were excited to see it come to life and are very proud of the line.

What are you most proud of about Ayelet by Naot? It’s about how we’re told repeatedly about things that we can’t have isn’t always true. I love that our line challenges that notion. You can wear a heel that makes you feel beautiful and sleek, and not have to kick them off the moment you step into the car. I can’t tell you how many times my friends have said they can’t wait to get home to take their shoes off. So I love offering solutions, and Ayelet by Naot hits personally.

What is the best business advice you’ve ever received? Crawl, walk, run, fly. Don’t try to make something huge from the beginning. Make sure it works and has longevity. Build a healthy business that functions properly. Every time a company grows 20 percent, it’s basically a new company. You must grow in a healthy fashion.

Any designers you admire especially? I’ve been watching The New Look series on Apple TV+. Although it’s historical fiction, I really admire Christian Dior. His vision and how he kept true to his creativity—and to his values in the hardest of times—is truly inspiring.

What shoe must every woman have in her closet? A simple black heel. You can dress it up or down. It goes with everything, and it never goes out of style.

What is your first shoe-related memory? I was born on a Kibbutz in central Israel. We didn’t get new clothes and shoes often. But I remember going to visit my aunt and uncle on Kibbutz Naot Mordechai and getting new sandals there. It was so exciting to go to the factory. It’s crazy that only a few years later my father was importing Naot into the U.S.!

What do you love most about designing shoes? I love that we can create shoes in so many different directions. We’re only limited by our imagination.

What do you love most about this industry? I adore the people. Even in the craziest times, we truly care about each other. For example, the amount of support and love that our company has received since the attack on Oct. 7 in Israel has kept me going on many hard days. Our Naot factories border the evacuation areas in the north, and most of our employees are still evacuated from their homes. The people who work in these factories are from different races, religions, and sects, and they have all come together in this difficult time. They all come into work and support each other daily. I’m still receiving calls and emails from people throughout our industry just wanting to know if everyone is ok. It means a lot.

Enjoyed this issue of Footwear Plus?

Emu Australia Teams with Kanner Group Chaco Marks 35th Anniversary

The goal: to expand the brand’s North American distribution.

EMU AUSTRALIA, THE 76-year-old sheep–skin-based brand, is currently found in 300-plus doors across North America. That includes influential retailers like Aritzia, Free People, Anthropologie, Browns, REI, and Simon’s. But Emu believes there are plenty more worthy customers out there. Thus, its new distribution agreement with Kanner Group, which counts more than 1,500 doors across its current portfolio of Gabor, Think!, and Haflinger.

Kanner’s extensive distribution is what first caught the eye of Coel Dart, international sales manager of Emu. Of particular attraction is its deep independent account base. Then there’s Emu’s and Kanner’s similar traits of being family-owned businesses that partner with many family-owned stores. It is a match made in, well, shoe heaven. “With more than 500 independent retailers in Australia alone, Emu’s commitment to supporting family-run businesses remains steadfast,” Dart says. “We’re poised to leverage Kanner’s relationships, expertise, and extensive reach across North America.”

Edward Kanner, CEO of Kanner Group, sees Emu as a brand with significant untapped distribution potential. And having distributed Birkenstock in North America for decades as well as introduced Finn Comfort, Gabor, and Think! to this market, he has a track record of success. “Sheepskin footwear is a substantial business, and Emu is a recognized category leader and very much on-trend,” he says. In fact, Emu’s “exceptional product” is what first caught his attention. “A core collection of superior, made-in-Australia product differentiates Emu from the competition,” Kanner says. “In a sea of sameness, it’s second to none.”

Similarly, Dart cites Kanner’s dual bases in Los Angeles and Montreal, a dedicated and sales team, and participation in 30-plus trade shows annually as attractive qualities. “That will amplify our visibility and accessibility in previously untapped territories,” he

says, adding that retailers will also benefit from Kanner’s investment in an extensive year-round stock program, ensuring rapid replenishment and sustained customer satisfaction.

Kanner believes the partnership marks a relaunch of sorts for Emu in North America, beginning with the Fall ’24 collection. “Emu has been successfully performing quietly under the radar for many years, and we’ll be raising brand awareness and rebuilding and strengthening partnerships with the leading independent retailers who form the heart of our business,” he says, adding, “We’re brand builders, specializing in comfort and wellness, and there’s a growing demand for high-quality, sustainably made footwear, which aligns perfectly with Emu’s values and offerings.”

Dart says the Fall ’24 collection, launching July 15, promises to captivate consumers with Emu’s signature blend of innovation, comfort, and style to elevate winter wardrobes. At the heart is its Australian Made Platinum collection, symbolizing luxury and sustainability through meticulous craftsmanship and premium sheepskin sourced from Australia. “Handcrafted with precision, each pair of Platinum boots and slippers undergoes a journey guided by over 15 skilled artisans, resulting in a product that epitomizes opulence and durability,” Dart says. “They’re built to withstand the test of time, promising wearers a blend of luxury and longevity.” Overall, Dart says, “Our approach is more than just making footwear; it’s a lifestyle to feel good at all times, unapologetically. We call it ‘the Emu way.’”

Kanner’s team is now leading the way for Emu in North America. He is confident that the right strategy and execution will see Emu flourish, capturing market share and becoming a go-to brand for premium natural footwear and accessories. “Emu’s unique positioning as a purveyor of Australian-made products resonates with discerning consumers seeking authenticity and craftsmanship,” Kanner says. “We’re excited to bring it into our portfolio of premium brands.” —Greg Dutter

Limited-edition Rivers Collection is part of a year-long celebration.

CHACO, A DIVISION of Wolverine Worldwide, is celebrating its 35th birthday in fitting fashion by going back to the watersport sandal that started it all. The brand’s April release of the Rivers Collection consists of two Z/Sandals featuring webbing patterns inspired by flowing rivers.

“We want to honor the legacy of our ‘Born on the River’ founding in a little garage in Paonia, CO, by a white water rafting guide,” says Jon Golub, senior brand director, adding that its river and landscape patterns have been a hit for long-term “Chaconians” and newcomers. “Our 35th birthday is a moment for us to empower individuals to embrace the moments that make them feel most alive and ignite their zest for life.”

On that note, Golub says the cheerful colors are intended to remind customers that life is a journey not to be taken too seriously. “The Rivers Collection are not only reminiscent of our river founding, but of the frivolous, adventurous, and sometimes dangerous moments we live for,” he says. An added design highlight, as with other Chaco special drops, is that this collection was manufactured at the ReChaco facility in Rockford, MI.

The Rivers Collection kicks off a year-long wave of celebration. That includes new product franchises, like the Rapid Pro Z/Sandal. The shoe brings Vibram back into the line with six times the grip of the competition. “The authenticity of the Rapid Pro reaffirms Chaco’s leadership in the outdoor water sandal market with rigorous testing on the trail, in the water, and in the test lab,” Golub says. Also on the slate: the fourth annual Chaco for Life tour. “Throughout the nationwide tour, in our vintage school bus, we’ll be connecting with Chaco Nation on their love for the brand, hearing their Chaco stories, and making repairs right on the bus,” he says. “Custom webbings will also be available to design and build a new pair right on site. Golub adds, “It’s about embracing the unexpected adventures and living life to the fullest.” —G.D.

Mintaro sheepskin boot, part of Emu Australia’s new premium Australian Made Collection debuting this fall.

Oobi is Where it’s At

The startup brand features an Apple AirTag imbedded into the right insole.

FIRST AND FOREMOST, Alexis Anderson is a parent. And like any parent, her child’s safety is a top priority. Anderson also hails from a shoe industry family. She is a sixth-generation descendent of the owners of Mason Companies, the 118-year-old multi-channel retailer based in Wisconsin that currently operates online sites ShoeMall, Mason Easy-Pay, and Maryland Square, among others. Combine the two and you get Oobi, the first Apple AirTag-compatible shoe.

“I’ve spent my career in corporate innovation, but shoes are in my blood,” Anderson says. “The idea for Oobi was inspired by my experience as a mom. I saw many people on social media and friends hacking their kids’ shoes by sewing AirTags into their linings. I loved the idea of an AirTag shoe and wanted to do it better.”

The patent-pending Nova sneakers feature an AirTag incorporated into the right insole that is trackable using Apple’s Find My App. (Oobi is not affiliated with Apple and is not responsible for the AirTag or the app.) The shoes, like the kids who wear them, are fit for a range of adventures. Features include zip tie laces, for sizes 6T to 10T, to encourage kids to engage with their laces before they learn how to tie them. The laces can also be removed, converting the shoe (available up to size 13) into a slip-on. Wholesale pricing is $29.99 and SRP is $59.99).

Hence, designing the entire shoe to adjust the outsole for the thickness of the AirTag in the insole. “Otherwise, it can leave the foot crammed,” she adds. “Our solution is made to be easy for parents and allows kids to wear our shoes in comfort.” Along those lines, Anderson says its research showed that parents also want aspects like stability and versatility, whereas kids want shoes that “make them go fast.” Thus, a shoe that is desirable regardless of if parents choose to use the tracking feature or not, she says.

As for the name, Oobi is a nod to the Latin word, Ubi, which means “where.” The brand’s website is whereisoobi. com and its social media handle is @whereisoobi. “This references the ability to track the AirTag in the shoe, and our cute planet mascot is also dual meaning in that there’s an AirTag depicted in the pocket,” Anderson says.

“We designed our shoes to meet parents’ and kids’ needs,” Anderson explains.

The main goal this year is getting the Oobi name out there via a mix of retail distribution and DTC sales. “By the end of this year, we’d like to be in households and stores across the U.S.,” Anderson says. “Looking further out, we hope Oobi becomes a household name—a lovable brand that parents choose for their peace of mind and kids choose for their daily adventures.” An added bonus for Anderson is being able to embrace her family’s deep shoe industry roots. “As a kid, I was so proud of our family’s shoe business,” she says. “That feeling of pride is something I hope my son will someday feel with Oobi.” —Greg Dutter

Valentina Rangoni

Twisted X

Sanctuary

Jambu

Featuring Aetrex orthotic support and memory foam cushioning for superior comfort