DECEMBER 2023
THIS JUST IN MARY JANES MANIA
VOL 33 • ISSUE 10 • $10
True Blue HUE GOTTA BELIEVE: THE COOL COLOR IS HOT
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WHAT A HACK MEET THE MAN BEHIND PSUDO’S BREAKTHROUGH CONCEPT
AMERICAN CLASSIC RED WING BOOT ENTERS OUR STYLE HALL OF FAME
LAST SHOT
PURPLES REIGN
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Every season we design, not to fit in but to stand out. With a commitment to luxurious comfort and artistic style, we strive to make high-quality shoes that feel as good as they look.
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DECEMBER 2023 F E AT U R E S
EDITORIAL
8 Meet the New Front Man Michael Rich, CEO of Psudo, is at the center of a unique and fast-growing casual sneaker concept. By Greg Dutter
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
14 Red, White, and Loved All Over Red Wing’s Classic 6-Inch Moc boot works its way into our esteemed Style Hall of Fame. By Kathy Passero
Rosemary O’Connell Art Director
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors Kathleen O’Reilly Fashion Editor
Kathy Passero Editor at Large Mariah Walker Style Director Ann Loynd Burton Contributing Editor
20 Sole to Soul Reflecting on how Hip Hop and sneakers have been thumping along together for 50 years and counting. By Sean Williams 24 Blue Crush Designers are loving the cool shade for spring. By Kathleen O’Reilly
Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING Noelle Heffernan Publisher Lizette Chin SVP/Group Publisher PA G E
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D E PA RT M E N T S
Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director
4 Editor’s Note 6 This Just In: Mary Janes
WAINSCOT MEDIA
18 A Note to My Younger Self
Carroll Dowden Chairman
22 Trend Spotting: Sand
Mark Dowden President & CEO
23 Trend Spotting: Block Heels 36 Shoe Salon
Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO
38 Upclose: Comfort 39 Trend Spotting: Court Sneakers
OFFICES
40 Last Shot
On cover: Propét running shoes with eco-friendly knit uppers, removable Dansko insoles for a custom fit, and cushioned metallicfoam outsoles. Durocloud suede sandals. Trevett McCandliss; styling: Photography: Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; model: Julia Oli/Supreme Management; hair and makeup: Sandradene Fearon/Next Artists; photo assistant: Eileen Viglietta.
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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, PO Box 300, Lincolnshire, IL 60069-0300. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.
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E D I TOR’S NOT E
REEL LIFE
Just Wait ’Til Next Year! APOCALYPTIC ORANGE wildfire skies. Red-hot wars in Ukraine, Sudan, Gaza Strip, etc. A steely cold stare-down between the U.S. and China. Fears of World War III igniting. A migrant crisis, an opioid epidemic, Covid lurking, natural and man-made disasters. RIP, sis… the steady stream of bad news throughout 2023 has been too much to bear. I mean, could it BE any worse? (RIP Chandler, too.) On that note, this year could sure use a Hollywood ending—a sentimental and simplistic movie with an improbably positive outcome. I want, to quote band manager Mr. White (Tom Hanks) in That Thing You Do, “Something peppy, something happy.” Now that the actors’ and writers’ strikes have finally been settled, perhaps there’s still time to crank out such an ending to a dismal 2023? In the meantime, I’ll continue to watch old favorite films as a temporary respite from a world playing out nightly like The Hunger Games. Three particular faves—Breaking Away, Stand By Me, and the original The Bad News Bears—feature variations on the classic Hollywood ending. The first, which takes me back to my bike racing days, is the traditional version. Four townies from Bloomington, IN, pull off the improbable upset and win the Little 500 race, besting the privileged college kids. What’s more, the tense father-son story line running through the film reaches a happy conclusion. It’s a feel-good movie ending, if ever there was one. Stand By Me features a slight twist on the Hollywood ending. While Chris Chambers (River Phoenix) eventually meets a sad fate—a case of art, sadly, imitating life—the coming-of-age adventure about four buddies going to see a dead kid’s body ends happily enough. None of our heroes are killed by Ace (Kiefer Sutherland) and his gang. And viewers understand the importance of friendship, however fleeting it may be. As an older Gordie Lachance (Richard Dreyfuss) types in the film’s final line: “I never had friends later on like the ones I had when I was 12. Jesus, does anyone?” The surprise Hollywood ending in The Bad News Bears is my favorite, though. Viewers are led to believe that a ragtag bunch of bumbling—and hilarious— Little Leaguers will overcome enormous odds and win the championship. Alas, no! They come up a run short on the game’s final play. None of that matters because Coach Buttermaker (Walter Matthau) has
learned the all-important lesson that winning isn’t everything. That’s followed by a timid Lupus (Quinn Smith), considered the worst player in the league, tossing the team’s puny second-place trophy into the dirt and shouting: “Just wait ’til next year!” Cue the Carmen opera music. What a rally cry. In the fighting spirit of Lupus, I shout the same at 2023! Sure, the present looks bleak and the world is collectively reeling, but one must never give up. We need to dig deep and not despair. Remember, hope springs eternal. We can—and will—do better in 2024 and beyond. You’ll see! I need only look to our latest issue for proof that talent and hard work fuel optimism about better days ahead. Take our Q&A (p. 8) with Michael Rich, founder/CEO of Psudo, a breakthrough concept that is gaining traction fast. In a Hollywood script–worthy storyline, after 30 years working for other shoe companies, Rich has stepped into the lead role. What a feel-good story. Then there’s our feature (p. 20) by Sean Williams, cofounder of the Obsessive Sneaker Disorder podcast and the recently opened SOLEcial Studies CommUNITY Academy in Brooklyn, NY, about the unbreakable bonds between Hip Hop, celebrating its 50th anniversary this year (a rare bright spot in 2023), and sneaker culture. Williams walks us through his life-long love affair with both genres—a journey marked by varied career pursuits, favorite artists, and killer kicks. It’s a fun trip down memory lane. What’s more, Williams’ goal of empowering minorities and women to pursue careers in the sneaker industry makes an uplifting subplot. It’s a potential pipeline of young, diversified talent that our industry desperately needs. Last but not all, is our latest A Note to My Younger Self (p. 18) participant, Dave Levy, owner of Hawley Lane Shoes. The mission of his third-generation, family-owned business is to change customers’ lives for the better, one comfortable and properly fitted pair of shoes at a time. That effort extends to supporting the five communities where the stores are based. Healthy community equals healthy retail. Hawley Lane is not in the transaction business; it’s in the business of building meaningful relationships. Of course, Levy warns his younger self of the setbacks and challenges that he, like his predecessors, will have to overcome. That’s part of the retailer script. There is no guarantee of a Hollywood ending—for any of us. But, as the movies teach us, there’s always hope. Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
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THIS JUST IN
Welcome to the Dollhouse Milan, Paris, New York...the classic Mary Jane is smokin’ hot. Photography by Marcy Swingle 6 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2023
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Q&A BY GREG
DUTTER
MEET THE NEW FRONT MAN After decades spent behind the scenes making shoes for other companies, Mi c h a e l R i c h , C E O o f Ps u d o , i s a t t h e c e n t e r o f a u n i q u e a n d f a s t - g r o w i n g c o n c e p t .
IF MICHAEL RICH was going to fulfill his dream of launching his own casual sneaker brand, he knew he needed think outside the box. Generic styles sourced overseas would never cut it in a hypercompetitive market dominated by behemoths. After nearly three decades of designing, sourcing, and selling shoes for such heavy hitters as Wolverine Worldwide, Rocky Brands, Steve Madden, and Skechers, Rich had become a behindthe-scenes guru and an expert in how it’s all done. He also knew that doing things differently in terms of design, manufacturing, materials, and turnaround times could give a new brand a way to traction in the market. Rich believed his best shot would be to “hack” into the industry with a completely unconventional approach—and that’s exactly what he’s done with Psudo. The brand debuted DTC at the beginning of 2020 and expanded into wholesale early this year. “We changed the way a casual sneaker could be made: in the United States, using sustainable materials, and featuring a comfortable slip-on construction,” Rich explains. “We also offer fast deliveries, low minimums, and quick fill-ins. That’s our hack. We’ve created something truly different.” Made in the U.S.A. is a key ingredient of Psudo’s brand recipe. “That was a big hit at the recent Atlanta show,” Rich says. “It’s a big part of our story, and people respond well to it.” Lots of people also respond well to Psudo’s commitment to sustainability, which includes recycled plastic knit uppers and, with its new Blu collection, outsoles and insoles made of repurposed foam scraps that would otherwise go into landfills. That product is manufactured in El Salvador. “The pivot to making shoes there is about the recycled materials, as well as a more affordable price point,” Rich says. “It’s also more of a cupsole construction, which is a nice complement to our U.S.-constructed jogger profile.” Rich, a self-proclaimed “product guy,” is all about the shoes. He spent three years perfecting his Psudo recipe, incorporating his decades of knowhow into designing the most comfortable and stylish shoes he could. His 8 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2023
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Q&A
“kitchen sink” approach includes sweat-wicking linings, colorful printed uppers, longer-lasting PU soles, cushioned insoles with high arch support, laceless construction, and machine washability. “It’s the culmination of everything I wanted to create in one great product,” he says. “We overdeliver on outsole and insole comfort, and the fabric uppers stretch just enough that you almost forget you’re wearing shoes.” Rich’s own 20,000-daily-steps tests have been met with resounding success. “It’s the shoe that you’ve never worn before, but it becomes your new favorite sneaker. They’re just uber-comfortable.” Of course, plenty of brands claim similar comfort attributes. But few, if any, offer Psudo’s other brand hooks—like its four-week turnaround times on orders, compared to the standard four-month minimum from Asian factories. Psudo also allows for much smaller minimums, enabling retailers to test and then fill-in quickly. This allows Psudo to stay nimble, rather than having to order thousands of pairs from an overseas factory and hope they sell and, if not, be forced to liquidate. “We might make only a few hundred pairs to test, react, and then make just what we need,” Rich explains. “From a hacking-the-industry standpoint, that’s the holy grail in terms inventory management.” He adds that manufacturing just enough to meet their needs means not overproducing, which works from a sustainability standpoint. “We can make just 72 pairs, and if a customer needs 36 pairs to fill in or wants a new style or size, we can produce just that. There’s no one I see producing shoes this way, which is another way we’re hacking the industry.” Many industry experts have long said such an approach isn’t possible, let alone sustainable. Psudo is proving otherwise. This year, sales have taken off—double last year’s numbers, and the outlook for growth is extremely strong. Rich reports a solid debut among a Who’s Who of leading comfort specialty independents nationwide. They include Hanig’s in Chicago, Wisconsin’s Chiappetta Shoes, The Shoe Mill in Oregon, North Carolina’s Tops for Shoes, and Karavel Shoes in Texas. Psudo has also opened select larger dealers—such as Dillard’s, Scheels, and Sun & Ski Sports—for next spring. What do these discerning retailers see in Psudo? Rich cites a combination of factors, but it starts and ends with product. In fact, he believes none of the brand’s other attributes would matter if Psudo fell short there. “At the end of the day the shoes must be comfortable, and they are,” he says. Rich also calls out Psudo’s colorful uppers with printed laces as a unique look that gets the conversation started. “Our most colorful styles have sold best,” he reports. “People are responding to our bright colors amid a sea of black, brown, gray, tan, and white sneakers on the market.”
Psudo’s success has resulted in a series of “pinchme” moments for Rich. They include seeing the very first styles produced in partnership with a Wisconsin company that makes tool belts and backpacks. Another was shifting production, about a year later, to “amazing” SAS factories in Texas to meet Psudo’s growing monthly demand that was at 3,000 to 4,000 pairs. Then there was the opening of Psudo’s own factory in Vernon, CA, in early 2022, which now makes upwards of 10,000 pairs a month. What began as a pet product project in 2016 is quickly evolving into a brand with extension potential into new categories, kids’, and licensing opportunities, Rich says. There’s also plenty of collab potential—like the green/yellow themed Packers styles Psudo has done with The Heel Shoe Fitters in Green Bay. (The store has already reordered.) There’s plenty of runway ahead, and Rich is excited like never before. “It’s been terrific so far,” he says. “I’m flexing my brain muscles to turn a product into a brand, which I’ve wanted to do for the end
consumer in terms of comfort, fashion, sustainability, and American made. I also wanted Psudo to have a fun vibrancy with a modern/retro feel. I think we’ve pulled it off.” Psudo has come a long way in a short time. Based in Hermosa Beach, CA, the company now employs 30 people. Rich’s years of hard work, travel to remote factories around the world, and working for others have culminated in running his own brand, his own unique way, on his own terms. He says he’s glad that he and his cofounder/wife (Kortney), who oversees marketing and operations, finally decided to turn his longtime dream into a reality. “Ultimately, it’s about creating a great product,” he says. “People always respond to new and fresh product, and Psudo is light, fun, unique, colorful, and comfortable.” What do you say to those who say sneakers can’t be manufactured in the U.S.? You can. But I didn’t just take a shoe that I used to make in Asia and try to do that here. Technical
O F F TH E C UF F What are you reading? Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Buisnessman, the biography of Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard. I read a lot of biographies, and I love reading about entrepreneurs because many companies, even huge ones like Tesla and Apple, started out humble and small. I always learn from that. What was the last series you watched? Succession. It’s the type of show you watch with your phone turned off. What might people be surprised to know about you? I’ve spent most of my career making shoes for other people, so people are surprised to see me now as the front man.
room for a new idea. That has always stuck with me. If, for example, you have a passion for coffee, there’s room for another coffee shop concept. Just because Starbucks exists doesn’t mean you shouldn’t start your own shop. There’s always room for something new and different, and consumers usually respond to that. Who is your most coveted dinner guest? Bono. I saw him and The Edge in a hotel lobby once in London. That’s as close as I’ve ever gotten. What is your least favorite word? No. I hate hearing that word. What is inspiring you right now? Psudo is coming to fruition. I’m inspired by the team that we’re putting together. I’m just so proud of what we’re building.
What is the best business advice you’ve ever received? My uncle, Charlie Cristol, who was a mentor of mine and founded Footaction, What was your first concert and best concert? U2 was my once told me there’s always
first during The Unforgettable Fire tour and probably my best. I’ve seen them a bunch of times and they just have a way of making any arena seem intimate. Prince had that same ability. He was always someone I thought I’d be able to see again. Where is your moment of Zen? Sundays walking the beach with my wife in California. There’s something just so peaceful and restorative about walking in the sand and listening to the waves. What is your motto? I don’t live through mottos, other than there’s always room for a new idea. What is your favorite hometown memory? I’m from Gaithersburg, MD, and it’s of being young teenagers riding our bikes 20 miles to Washington, D.C., to visit the Smithsonian as well as the cool shoes stores on 14th St. There was one in the Georgetown neighborhood that had a lot of the Hoyas basketball players, like Alonzo Mourning, working there. We loved shopping those stores.
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Q&A
athletic footwear is different. We simplified everything to recreate a new type of product, because trying to get multiple parts and components…that supply chain really doesn’t exist here. Instead, we take as much out of the shoe as possible to eliminate those manufacturing steps. But we put back in an overbuilt outsole and insole that offers support, high arch support, and extreme comfort. Plus, our PU soles doesn’t break down as quickly as other foams do. Did people tell you were crazy to even try making shoes in the U.S.? Of course. I respect all the companies that I’ve worked with, but I believe there is always room for a new idea. I just felt like we could wiggle in between those guys with something unique. Of course, it’s never that easy. People don’t just walk into your booth and say, ‘Wow, I’m going to buy 10,000 pairs.’ That doesn’t happen. You have to consistently be proving and improving yourself. Hopefully, they try it and, if it works, they order more. That’s why we want to be nimble, which is a key part of our DNA. We want to move fast and react. Why did you decide to expand into wholesale this year? My thought all along was that we’d eventually get into wholesale. While I respect Allbirds and Warby Parker, I believe that the pendulum never swings 100 percent one way or the other. So when everyone jumped on the DTC bandwagon and then, during Covid, people thought no one would ever shop in stores again…it’s human nature that it’d swing back more to the center. Now that we can travel again, we want to shop in stores and experience new things. We just needed to get our new manufacturing facility up and running to meet our growing demand. But we can also say that we’ve been selling shoes for three years DTC and know what consumers respond well to. It’s a good combination. Who have been some of your early retail adopters? We first sold into a few accounts in the Southeast, one of which was Tops in Asheville, NC. My wife and I did a trunk show, and their customers just loved Psudo from the get-go. We did a couple of giveaways and a contest. It was a huge success. Plus, being on the salesfloor reminded me of my younger retail days. I was getting shoes out of the back room and helping customers with try-ons. Being in that environment, with so many other great brands on display, was a memorable experience. It was definitely a pinch-me moment Are your retail partners looking to buy more immediately? At the Atlanta show, several retailers asked if we could produce styles that we were showing for Spring ’24 right away. We were able to ship those in September. As we pivot into wholesale, we’re learning what’s the best way to go about this. From my perspective, retailers want to work close to the vest, even though they need to place orders four to six months in advance for many of the brands they carry. So we’re figuring out how our nimble business model fits into that. That said, we’re working now on Fall ’24, which is the furthest in advance we’ve been on design to date. But we also launch new styles every month online, which is part of our secret sauce. We can react very quickly if any get a strong response. What is your turnaround time? We’re now quoting about four weeks for 72 pairs. Is Psudo ahead of schedule? We’re way ahead. We’ve more than doubled sales over last year, and with the knowledge and skillset of the team we’re building, we believe we’re in a really good position to grow a lot more. We have the capability and understanding. So long as we do our job on design and maintain our ethos as far as quality, fit, comfort, and sustainability, we’ll have our place.
A LIFE’S WORK Michael Rich on working in the industry he knows and loves. What did Michael Rich want to do when he grew up? Work in the shoe business, in some form or another. “I’ve wanted to be in the shoe business since I was a little kid,” Rich says. “I’ve just always loved shoes. When I was five, I’d sleep with my new sneakers. And my first paying job was at an Athlete’s Foot. I’d bugged the crap out of the manager to hire me for a year. When I turned 16, he finally relented.” During college, Rich worked at a Downtown Locker Room store and, upon graduation, thought about becoming a tech rep for one of the athletic brands he so adored. That is until his uncle, Charlie Cristol, founder of Footaction (a love of shoes runs in the family), steered him to Paul Cahn, his good friend/business partner and founder of Elan-Polo, Intl. “My uncle thought I’d learn a lot more about the shoe business working there, and he was right,” Rich says. “I moved to St. Louis and started at the bottom, and then moved into product design and development.” Rich says Elan-Polo threw him to the wolves—in a good way. “My first trip to Asia was by myself. I was given a business card contact, flew to Taiwan, was told to take a bus to a hotel, and don’t fall asleep, because I’d miss my stop. It was learning by fire.” Rich learned all about how to make shoes, primarily for Elan-Polo’s regional discount customers like Caldor’s, Payless, Target, and Walmart. “I learned how product was made, how duties changed depending on outsole constructions and the amount of materials on the uppers, etc.,” he says, adding that he traveled to factories throughout Asia. Rich then moved onto Brown Shoe, working in various sales positions. He describes learning how to work with retailers as the next phase of his shoe education. “I called on DSW, Meyer, and Walmart in Canada, among many others,” he says. After Brown he worked for LJO, Jimlar, Mercury, and then direct with factories as an agent designing, developing, and producing shoes for retailers and brands. “I primarily made sneakers and work/safety footwear. Basically, my 10,000 hours have been spent working behind the scenes making shoes for other people.” Now, with the launch of Psudo, Rich has stepped into the spotlight. It’s the culmination of a desire to launch his own brand, which began about 10 years ago. Although, one could argue that the fuse was lit when Rich was a kid. He didn’t know then exactly what a shoe career might entail; he just knew he desperately wanted one. His tenacity and talent have won out. It’s a happy and rewarding career story with more chapters to be written. “I always dreamed of working in this business, and I’m fortunate my dreams have come true,” Rich says. —G.D.
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Q&A
What do you love most about this industry? That it’s always changing. I also love the camaraderie, which I saw so clearly at the Atlanta show this past August. For example, I didn’t know Peter Hanig until three months ago. Doing business with people like him is just really rewarding. I love working with full-service retailers. They remind me of my retail days, where I’d learn everything there was to know about how the shoes were made and what customers would be the best fit for them. I loved learning all about that stuff, whereas the help at chain stores today possess none of that knowledge. That’s why I think many of these specialty retailers are thriving. I believe consumers still want and need to know about product. My wife, for example, loves going to our local specialty running shop, where she’ll try on five pairs and get the full-service experience that she can’t get anywhere else. She loves that. You just can’t get that level of service online or at a chain.
Would you say Psudo’s initial success runs contrary to the perception that people aren’t receptive to new brand concepts? A lot of people laughed initially at Ugg and Crocs. Now those brands are part of our nomenclature. I just think people always respond to new and fresh product. On that note, some of our retailers are telling us it’s been an extra sale. They may have come in for Ecco or Birkenstock, and after a try-on, they leave with a pair of Psudos, as well. Retailers love that. What are your key goals for next year? We have a lot of goals, and much of it is related to setting up the base of our infrastructure pyramid. We want to make sure that as we grow, we can properly execute orders seamlessly. That’s been the downfall of a lot of startups. We’ll do our best to be perfect, even if there is never perfection. So plenty more pinch me moments await? It’s a pinch-me moment whenever we get a reorder. But I try not to get too overwhelmed, and having a CFO on board now has been a huge lift. I want to spend as much time possible on product. There’s so much more we want to do, like more artist collaborations. We have to crawl, walk, run. Right now, we’re running a bit.
The new Psudo Blu collection features 85 percent recycled foam insoles and outsoles.
The Court style gives the look of a lace-up in the convenience of a slip-on construction.
It’s safe then to assume then that these retail partners will not be receiving a Dear John letter from Psudo? They will not. I really believe independent retailers are the fabric of their communities, and we’re very proud that they’ve embraced us. I couldn’t dream of a better place to have Psudo launch than with these types of stores, because they want full price and their salespeople are looking to engage with their customers and show them latest products. They want to have meaningful conversations about the brands they carry. It’s not just a transaction. That’s what Psudo needed for it to catch on. I’m also just inspired by how extremely nimble they’ve become—all the pivoting they’ve done during Covid just to survive. I’m proud to be working with Luckys, Shoefly, Little’s, Hanig’s, etc., and learning from them about what they need and how we can help. What do you love about your job? I’ve really grown into this role of CEO and managing and mentoring people, which I love. We have a dynamic team that understands what we’re doing and where we’re headed. They all want to be part of it. We have a great collective energy. I also love creating product. I have a bit of ADHD, and Psudo is a good fit for addressing that. I can switch from product to design to marketing to budgeting all in a day. I love that. •
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RED, WHITE, AND LOVED ALL OVER What do Ryan Gosling, Harajuku hipsters, and Middle America h a v e i n c o m m o n ? A n e n d u r i n g p a s s i o n f o r R e d W i n g ’s u n p r e t e n t i o u s , i n t r e p i d , a l w ay s - i n - s ty l e 6 - i n c h C l a s s i c Mo c b o o t . B y Ka t h y Pa s s e r o
R
ED WING’S 6-INCH CLASSIC MOC is as quintessentially American as the faded Levi’s and plaid flannels it’s often paired with. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more recognizable footwear silhouette or a more enduring one. After almost seven decades, the iconic boot from Red Wing, MN, has left its crepe-soled footprints on the hearts of everybody from Midwestern deer hunters to entertainment icons to Tokyo trendsetters. And it seems to have a sky’s-the-limit future, expanding successfully into women’s, new colorways, and a series of creative collaborations. Introduced by Red Wing in 1952 as a hunting boot, the Classic Moc was—and still is—handcrafted by skilled makers in the USA with leather from the now fourth-generation, family-owned company’s tannery. (According to Red Wing literature, it takes more than 230 steps to build each pair by hand.) “Moc” is short for moccasin, the Algonquin word for shoe, a nod to the fact that the toebox design was inspired by traditional Native American footwear. The Classic Moc soon found its way from the woods to the farms and factories of the heartland, hardly surprising since many of the men who hunted on the weekends spent their work weeks in those places. Laborers recognized
that the boots were durable, comfortable (after you wore them a few times to break the leather in), water-resistant, lightweight, and slip-resistant thanks to their crepe rubber outsoles. In short, they were a perfect fit for work. Red Wing realized this too and created a steel toe work version of the Moc (also available with an 8-inch upper) that became as popular as the hunting one. Classic Mocs became Red Wing’s #1 seller, a title the style still holds today. Over the decades, the company has sold millions of pairs of its OG favorite—a feat made more impressive by the fact that the boots are resoleable, durable enough that they’re sometimes handed down from generation to generation, and so sought-after as vintage finds that pre-owned pairs can command prices on eBay above the current $300 starting point for new ones. BIG IN JAPAN So how did the Classic Moc, with its unpretentious origins and salt-of-theearth DNA, become a thriving lifestyle brand, chic enough to show up in the pages of GQ and on the feet of David Beckham and Ryan Gosling? That’s the surprise twist to the story: Red Wing never expected its boots to become a style statement. It just sort of…happened.
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VINTAGE PINK BOOT PHOTO COURTESY OF NICK ENGLISH.
In the mid-’70s, Japanese youth fell hard for all things Americana—and one of the items they coveted most was Red Wing Classic Moc work boots. At home in Minnesota, people bought Mocs for function, but in Tokyo, they were the height of fashion. They remained a top selling lifestyle look in Japan for decades, but it wasn’t until the tourism boom—when Americans started flocking to Japan in the late ’90s and early ’00s—that the boomerang effect kicked in. Travelers from the U.S. saw what the Japanese were wearing and suddenly realized Classic Mocs were cool, so they came home looking to buy a pair, too. J. Crew picked up on the trend and approached Red Wing in 2007 with a view to buying 3,000 pairs of Classic Mocs. As the story goes, they sold out almost immediately and Red Wing realized it needed to create a lifestyle division in North America. Thus was born Red Wing Heritage. Clockwise from top: The Moc rocks: women’s silhouette in Mocha; Since its formation in 2008, Heritage men’s Alpine, vintage pink, and Oro Legacy colorways. has rolled out Classic Mocs in a rainbow of colors—50 to be exact—from Indigo Then there’s the Goodyear welt construction, blue to Alpine green, according to George a process that dates from 1869 and enhances the Curleigh, president of the division. They’ve also boot’s durability. “It’s very labor-intensive and overseen a number of highly collectible limitedrequires skilled workers,” Curleigh says. “You can’t edition collaborations ranging from dressing the just find someone off the street. It takes years to boot up in Woolrich plaids to inviting artists to put learn these skills.” their creative stamp on the uppers. (See sidebar.) Combine durable construction with a never-outof-style silhouette, and you get a sort of built-in SUBTLE UPGRADES sustainability: a boot that lasts for decades and is Along the way, Red Wing has made a number repairable, says Curleigh. (There are more than of invisible improvements to the Classic Moc’s 1,600 certified Red Wing cobblers, and the factory design. “It looks exactly the same, but every few repairs the boots of owners who mail or bring them years we tweak the rubber, the durability, the in.) You could even argue that the Classic Moc cushioning, the grip, the technology,” Curleigh is recyclable in the sense that so many pairs get explains. “Most people don’t know it, but the handed down in families and resold because age white sole is actually Vibram technology. That’s ups their appeal to much of the fanbase, he adds. why it has such good grip.” Other aspects of the process haven’t changed BETTER OVER TIME a bit over the years. Red Wing, founded in 1905 “Everybody likes the look of good quality leather and owned by the same family since 1914, still that has aged well,” says Nick English, owner of uses its venerable Puritan stitch machines, timethe boot blog Stridewise. “It’s got patina. It exudes tested workhorses that create the Moc’s durable timelessness, durability, masculinity, care taken, a triple-stitch detail. “Our biggest challenge is that ready-for-anythingness. There are a lot of leather those machines haven’t been made for decades, boots out there, but there aren’t many with the so we have to repair them and custom-make toolleather quality of Red Wing. ing,” says Curleigh. Likewise, the company’s S.B. “It’s not just the fact that the boots can be resoled, Foot Tanning Company in Red Wing, MN, dates but the fact that they look better with age. People from the 19th century and still uses old-fashioned like the look of a new pair of these boots; they love wooden drums.
the look of an old pair,” he adds. “You’ve gotta earn that age. They’re sort of like faded jeans in that regard. And for made-in-America, Goodyear-welted boots, they’re very reasonably priced, which has helped to cement their place in pop culture and footwear [fame].” English says Red Wing’s Classic Mocs hold a special place in his heart. “It was my very first boot,” he recalls. “I’m from the tropics of Australia, where boots aren’t really a thing. When I moved to New York I suddenly needed boots to manage the snow and the gutters. I did weeks of research and got the charcoal Red Wing Classic Moc in 2014. That boot started my whole career. I couldn’t find the informational resource I wanted, so I started my website. Now I travel all over the world learning about boots. And I still have my Mocs. I got them resoled with red stitching, which looks really good with the gray.” CULT FOLLOWING Most American members of Moc nation come to the brand the way Nick English did—organically. “Even though it’s been around for a long time, the Classic Moc is still an underground fashion in North America, and Red Wing is still a discovery brand,” says Curleigh. The cult of the Classic Moc certainly includes A-listers (Ryan Gosling is famously a fan), but Red Wing doesn’t seek out stars. “We don’t pay famous musicians to wear our boots at the Grammys,” says Curleigh. “People wear them because they want to. They’ve discovered the brand themselves.” In what might be deemed characteristic Midwestern understatedness, flying almost under the radar in its home country suits Red Wing just fine. “Our goal is to smoke but never catch on fire,” Curleigh explains. “As soon as you catch on fire, you become so popular you know that in a few years you won’t be.” Moreover, the company is proud of its deep roots in the work boot world. “The link to work gives the Classic Moc a lot of credibility,” Curleigh says. “We started from something real.” And that authenticity isn’t just a legacy: Red Wing is still known primarily as a work brand in the U.S. and Canada. Everywhere else, however, those famous Mocs are all about lifestyle. “If you go to one of the 500-plus Red Wing shoe stores in North America, it’s 80 percent work product. Outside the U.S., 100 percent of the product is Heritage,” Curleigh says. In fact, 2023 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 15
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RED WING 6-INCH CLASSIC MOC
more than half of all Heritage sales take place outside North America, in the company’s seven Japanese stores, 13 European ones, and through distributors in South Korea, Hong Kong, Malaysia, and Taiwan. MEET THE FANS Here in North America, the core audience for the Classic Moc has always been “the guy with the red plaid shirt and the beard,” as Curleigh describes him. But he’s hardly the only enthusiast. For years Red Wing made Classic Mocs and a handful of other core men’s styles down to size 4 for female shoppers in Japan. But in such small proportions, the heavyweight leather was so stiff it barely bent. Under the helmsmanship of Allison Gettings (great granddaughter of J.R. Sweasy, company president and CEO from 1921 to 1949), Red Wing launched a women’s Heritage line in 2016. Though still small, the globally sold category is the brand’s fastest grower. (Earlier this year Gettings became Red Wing’s president and CEO, the fourth generation of her family to run the company.) A younger generation of American men is discovering Classic Mocs, too. Curleigh saw this firsthand when one of his sons bought a copy of GQ in 2016 because Chance the Rapper was on the cover. Inside,
the musician was pictured on a scooter wearing Mocs. “I said, ‘Hey, there’s our boot!’ My son said, ‘Dad, those are so cool! Can I get some?’ I told him a pair had been sitting in the hall for eight years. He wore them all the time until his feet got too big and I had to buy him his own pair.” “The Classic Moc is a timeless, long-lasting heritage boot that people have a connection to,” says Chase Casillas, sales manager for STAG Provisions for Men, a Texas clothier specializing in contemporary looks with classic roots. “There’s no telling who it will appeal to. I’m constantly surprised at who seeks it out, from notable people to people you just wouldn’t expect who come in wearing sneakers. The Classic Moc is definitely our bestseller; it has the most name recognition out of the brands we carry.” FORWARD THINKING Unlike other iconic styles that ricocheted from cool kid to outcast and back again over the years, the Classic Moc never went through an uncool phase. “The only times we’ve gone backward have been due to capacity: We couldn’t make enough in the last few years, so we had to limit the number of colors by more than half, but we’re coming out of it now,”
says Curleigh. “Aside from that, every year we’ve sold more than the year before.” Speaking of colors, “We think of the Moc Toe as our Air Jordan: There are so many different versions we can come up with, especially on women’s,” Curleigh continues. “Our goal is to have a new color for women every season. For spring it’s a Dusty Rose inspired by a reddish pink leather from a boot one of our designers found after it sat out in the sun for three years and faded. We asked the tannery if they could make the same color. People are really excited on the women’s side, but what blew us away was that guys liked it too. We’re doing a limited launch of the heavier weight as a men’s moc and taking pre-orders from retailers. We’re scrambling to make enough leather.” It seems only fitting for a brand that has survived more than a century to take the long view, making slow, steady growth and gradually increased awareness the goal for both Red Wing and the Classic Moc. “Down the road, hopefully more people will know who Red Wing is when I say I work there. But the Moc won’t change significantly,” Curleigh concludes. “There may be interesting iterations, but the construction and materials will stay the same. We’re an iconic company and this is our icon style.” •
IT TAKES TWO: CREATIVE COLLABORATIONS As fans will tell you, Red Wing Classic Mocs pair well with anything. Since its launch in 2008, the Heritage division has taken that notion to heart, introducing a number of unique creative collaborations that run the gamut from 75 hand-painted special editions commemorating the opening of the Shinjuku store in Tokyo to 150 white tumbled leather Moc Toes with silver gun metal eyelets to celebrate Concepts’ 20th anniversary. Up next: The first women’s collaboration, scheduled to make its debut next year. Below are just three examples of unusual Classic Moc collaborations: • JXTA (2023): Red Wing teamed with Juxtaposition Arts, a not-for-profit arts school in North Minneapolis that provides a makers’ space and a path to creative careers for an underprivileged population, by inviting students to design a capsule collection including hoodies and custom Classic Mocs. The boots sold out online in 24 hours, and all proceeds benefited JXTA. As an extension of the campaign, students designed art inspired by the collaboration, which was showcased on seven billboards in the Minneapolis area. • Want Show Laundry (2021): Red Wing found inspiration in the elderly owners of Taiwan’s Want Show Laundry, who became Instagram famous by posting whimsical photos of themselves in customers’ forgotten clothing. (Their
grandson came up with the idea when business was slow during the pandemic.) The unique approach to circular fashion motivated Red Wing to search out its own forgotten boots and collaborate with the couple, who posed in boots from a special collection of 30 unreleased Red Wing prototypes, special editions, limited runs, and even a patchwork model Classic Moc made from leather scraps. The boots were put up for auction with proceeds benefitting the Want Show Redefine Project, which encourages laundromats to sell left-behind garments to cover unpaid cleaning bills along with supporting charitable causes. • Artists Editions (2023 and beyond): Red Wing recently kicked off a new social media–driven activation that invites artists to design custom versions of iconic Heritage boots. The first is a partnership with Gary Stranger, including 25 numbered Classic Mocs embossed with his “Scenic Route” artwork, each sold with a matching numbered art print signed by Stranger.
16 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2023
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O N E PA I R A T A T I M E Dave Levy, owner of Hawley Lane Shoes, looks back on a rewarding career of changing customers’ lives through the art of fitting them properly.
One of the proudest moments you’ll experience is helping a customer DEAR YOUNG DAVE, as I sit down to write this letter to you, who has faced a life-altering accident. She’ll walk into the store feeling I can’t help but reflect on the incredible journey that lies ahead. You’re self-conscious about her changed appearance. It’s your opportunity about to embark on a path that’s been paved by three generations to shine. Work tirelessly to find the perfect pair of shoes that not only of our family, a rich legacy of shoe store owners in Connecticut. accommodate her needs but also help restore her confidence. This is I want to share some insights and advice that I hope will guide another reminder that our work goes beyond selling shoes; it’s about you along the way. making a positive impact on people’s lives. First and foremost, I want you to understand the deep importance Now, let’s talk a bit about personal growth. You’re going to face of our family’s values. We take immense pride in our commitment plenty of adversity and, at times, you’ll to customer service and the art of fitting doubt yourself. But always remember that shoes properly. It’s not just about selling hard work and discipline can overcome footwear; it’s about changing lives, one almost anything. That drive is what will pair at a time. Never forget that a wellget you through Clark University and earnfitted shoe can make a world of difference ing a M.A. degree in Economics from the to someone. University of Kent. It’s what gets your foot Growing up in our store, you’re going to into the shoe industry, first as a product learn invaluable lessons. Pay close attention director for Keds, followed by stops at to the way we build relationships with our Converse, and Tommy Hilfiger. It’s also customers. Our (now five) stores aren’t just what leads to back to our family’s roots a place of transactions; it’s a haven where when you become owner of Hawley Lane people come for personalized attention. Shoes in 2000. Take the time to understand each customer’s Along your journey, you’ll encounter unique needs and preferences. Remember, moments when you’ll want to speak your it’s not just about selling what looks good, mind passionately. While it’s essential to but what feels good. have a voice, be cautious about doing so in You’ll witness the magic of our small-town public. Sometimes, it’s wiser to be strategic communities. We’re not just selling shoes; and less reactive. I wish I could be more we’re an integral part of our hometowns specific about what to avoid, but this lesson of Stamford, Norwalk, Shelton, Orange, will become clear as you grow as a person. and Danbury. Get involved, support local So when you attend that Tony Robbins events, and give back to these wonderDave Levy, circa age 16, on the cusp of entering seminar, absorb every piece of wisdom he ful towns. A thriving community is the into his family’s Connecticut shoe business. shares. Confidence and the belief that you foundation of our success. Be a force of can achieve anything will become your greatest assets. change, especially for young kids who want to go to summer camp. Finally, never stop believing in yourself. Your determination Mom, for one, will relish the results. and dedication will take you far in life. I mean, who would’ve In the world of retail, you’ll face numerous challenges. Fashion thought we’d own a successful, five-store chain and online busitrends come and go, and economic downturns will test your resilness? With regard to the latter, embrace those shoppers who ience. During those tough times, remember the generations before want to buy shoes through a computer! It may sound crazy to you who weathered similar storms. They’ve left a legacy of resilience you now, but it will happen—a lot. and adaptability. On that note, embrace technology to enhance the Of course, you’ll face some setbacks. (Who doesn’t working in shopping experience. Explore online reservations and virtual fittings. retail?) But never give up on your dreams for the many rewards The world changes rapidly, and we must change with it while staying that will come by fulfilling them. Stay focused, be strong, and keep true to our core sit-and-fit values. Just be careful of what may seem striving to make a difference in the lives of others. That’s your greattoo good to be true, like Amazon. To you that’s the world’s largest est reward. You can do it! river, but in the future it’s also the world’s largest retailer. Hawley Lane we’ll even be a business partner for a time. That is until their With respect and best wishes, definition of a partnership doesn’t align with our family’s values. Dave Live and learn—always.
18 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2023
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Sean Williams, Obsessive Sneaker Disorder podcast creator and cofounder of SOLEcial Studies CommUNITY Academy, reflects on why Hip Hop and kicks are soulmates.
WHO CAN THINK of Run DMC without thinking of Adidas? The rap supergroup’s 1986 Hip Hop anthem “My Adidas” inspired thousands of fans to hold their Superstars over their heads during concerts. Ditto for the Beastie Boys and Puma Clydes. The cover of the group’s classic 1992 album Check Your Head features band member Ad-Rock sporting the kicks, de rigueur footwear for breakdancers since the early ’80s. These are just two examples in a long line of iconic pairings of sneakers and Hip Hop, stretching back 50 years to the birth of the genre. Little did fans know then how influential the new sounds exploding from the streets of New York would become—or that the sneakers emerging hitmakers wore would become cultural touchstones, intrinsically linked to every new beat that followed. Sneakers and Hip Hop go together like peanut butter and jelly. And together they’ve conquered the world—two antiestablishment icons, bold, loud, and the epitome of cool. Sean Williams, a student of both sneakers and Hip Hop since his days growing up in Brooklyn in the ’70s and ’80s, traces the union of the two to the release of “It’s Just Begun” by the Jimmy Castor Bunch in 1972. The soul classic is about optimism, embracing the present, and taking charge of one’s destiny. “It’s a musical metaphor that represents the marriage of sneakers and Hip Hop culture, and what they grew into,” Williams says. “My lifelong involvement personally and professionally in sneakers and Hip Hop dances to that song.” Williams is a scholar as much as is he is a fan of both genres. After he and business partner Dee Wells created the first sneaker-focused podcast in 2007 (coinciding with the 25th anniversary of Nike’s Air Force 1 release), the duo went on to develop SOLEcial Studies, an educational platform focused on Ed the business of sneakers. Countless people told them no one would want
to listen to two guys talk about sneakers. How wrong they were. The naysayers were also mistaken about the pair’s sneaker-based educational platform: They have taught courses in colleges and universities around the world. This fall, Williams and Wells took a leap forward with the opening of the SOLEcial Studies CommUNITY Academy in Brooklyn, America’s first sneaker business and culture school. “In the spirit of Hip Hop culture’s creation and ascendance, we’re doing the same for sneaker culture—one pair and one student at a time,” Williams says. “The aim is to educate and
empower more minorities and women to pursue a career in the sneaker industry.” Williams never envisioned how influential his passion for sneakers and Hip Hop would become. With Hip Hop celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, it’s a time of reflection for him. It’s been a long, strange trip—with killer kicks at every stop. And he wouldn’t trade it for anything. “Here we are at Hip Hop’s golden anniversary, and both genres are as intertwined and influential as ever,” he says. Below, Williams looks back on loving and living the Hip Hop and sneaker life, starting with his early B-boy dreams and first sneaker crush: Puma Baskets.
THE SALAD DAYS
Before I understood how intertwined sneakers and Hip Hop were, I was already living the lifestyle, as Brooklyn’s urban landscape dictated. I had enlisted in the nascent Hip Hop army, even if I didn’t realize it at the time. My mother, Mary Elizabeth Reid (RIP), Sean Williams inside and I made a deal connecting my his SOLEcial Studies academic performance to her buying CommUNITY Academy me my latest must-have sneakers. in Brooklyn. Good grades equaled fresh kicks. Lesson learned. One of my first career goals, at age 13, was as an aspiring B-boy. I didn’t perform well in that camp, but at least the Puma Basket kicks I sported held up during all my attempts. I can still see those fat white laces smoothly flowing over each other, thanks to my meticulous lacing technique. I also remember the blue toothbrush I carried—at all times—to make sure the stripe logo stayed super fresh. Next up: aspiring graffiti artist. Being relatively decent at art, I thought I might have found my calling—along with the right kicks! I was 14 and digging Adidas Superstar and Campus styles. My shoes of choice stood up to the rigors of my new pursuit, which required climbing through the tough terrain of subway stations, train cars, and elevated tracks. My footwear had
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Top: Tupac Shakur wearing Fila Grant Hill 2s. Bottom: Sean Williams and sister, Sheree, kick
to perform. The hard rubber shells of my Superstars prevented quite a few mishaps that would’ve likely left me walking differently today or unable to walk at all! The soundtrack to my graffiti days came courtesy of Kool DJ Red Alert on 98.7 Kiss FM, and Mr. Magic (RIP) and DJ Marly Marl on 107.5 WBLS. Red Alert, now a good friend, rocked a signature military hat paired with whatever were the hottest basketball sneakers of the day. I sported Adidas Rivalry in the tried-and-true New York Knicks colorways. And on the days I ventured into Manhattan after school to work as a messenger, I donned fresh Nike Air Max 1s to make a good impression. I’ve always valued individual expression and my broad range of sneaker styles reflected that. On some occasions, I’d roll up in New Balance 574 joggers or Diadora Borg Elite tennis shoes. Showing up in kicks intended for sports I didn’t play was par for the course. For example, premium leather Bally Triumph tennis sneakers, circa 1986, was another style in my sneaker arsenal. It showed everyone that I rocked to my own beat. Being different was celebrated back then!
up their Aqua Air Jordan 8 heels in 1993.
basketball shoe. Tupac Shakur wore it on the All Eyez on Me album insert released in 1996. Hip Hop was edgy, and the shoes we sported were tough. Who cared if a sneaker weighed as much as a boot? Those days are long gone!
IT’S A WONDERFUL (SNEAKER) LIFE The new millennium marked the dawn of a new age for sneakers and Hip Hop. And1 crashed the party in 2000 as a brash new brand ushered in by Vince Carter’s NBA All-Star weekend dunk contest win for the ages. I’ll never forget that 360-degree, windmill monster jam with Carter sporting And1 Tai Chis. It put the brand on the map. Adding another pin to the map for Hip Hop was GhostFace Killah’s album Supreme Clientele. Even though Ghost was known as “Wally Champ” for his love of Clarks Wallabees, he wove sneaker and apparel references into his rhymes often. Sometimes I felt like we were shopping in the same places at the same time! His Wu-Tang Clan bandmate, Raekwon the Chef, also sparked a ton of footwear nostalgia in his 1999 song “Sneakers,” which name-dropped an array of classic styles. Other noteworthy Hip Hop albums released that year included Eminem’s The Marshall Mathers LP, The Dynasty: Roc La Familia by Jay-Z, and the incomparable Busta Rhymes’ Anarchy. Eminem has since partnered with Nike on 30 amazing collabs! As the aughts wore on, there was a shift from overbuilt shoes to retro styles led by Nike Dunk and Jordan Brand. This trend is strong to this day. Hit styles included Vans Authentics, Adidas Stan Smiths, Converse All Stars (they never go out of style), and Fila Disruptors, to name but a few. Songs like Nelly’s “Air Force 1s” became a soundtrack to a lot of ’hoods across the country. As much as I disliked that song, it’s an undeniable ode to that 20-year-old sneaker’s legacy. Still, I’ve never owned white-on-whites in any brand. I just can’t go there, stylistically. Hip Hop’s influence on sneakers and vice-versa is stronger than ever today. And while these days sneaker drops come at us faster than Buster Rhymes raps, I can never get enough. Every new sneaker is a story—just like every new Hip Hop track. And after 50 years of marriage, the bonds between sneakers and Hip Hop are tight. I expect they will stick together for decades to come. Thank you for the memories. Happy golden anniversary, Hip Hop, and long live sneaker culture! •
PH OTOS COU RT E SY O F S E A N W I L L I A MS .
THE DIDDY DAYS Around 1990, the sneaker wars were heating up and my role in Hip Hop’s growing army had changed. I jumped feet first into music production, owning my own indie record label. Puma and Adidas moved to the back of my closet, as groups like Audio Two, Eric B & Rakim, and Boogie Down Productions all rocked Nike styles. A new brand king had been coronated. MC Milk Dee and Giz of Audio Two made a bold statement on the cover of their “I Don’t Care” 12-inch release wearing Nike’s pump-controlled Air Pressure hi-tops. Soon after, Nike’s Air Max collection dominated my sneaker wardrobe, led by my alltime favorite, the Nike Air Max 1. My mid- and hi-top game also featured styles by Reebok, Air Jordan, Avia, Spot-Bilt, Adidas, and Converse, among others. I even got my younger sister, Sheree, in on the act with Aqua Air Jordan 8s, which we purchased together on the release date in 1993. The Hip Hop scene in New York was the epicenter of all things independent in the ’90s. That’s when artists like Eminem, Jay-Z, Snoop Dogg, Biggie Smalls, Nas, and others found fame. Sneaker-wise, we continued to embrace individuality. There was none of today’s lockstep “released on Saturday, everyone wears them on Monday” behavior. Fila took a turn in the spotlight, led by its iconic Grant Hill 2 Alex
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T R E N D S P OT T I N G
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22 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2023
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Ecco Azura
Sanctuary
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BLOCK PARTY
Raise the roof (a bit) in sturdy low heels. Aerosoles Halsa
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Diba True stack block heel boots with side zipper.
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Seychelles cross band slingback sandal. Opposite page: braided raffia slide by White Mountain.
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Left to right: leather sandals by Chris Donovan; Alegria slip-on sneaker; adjustable strap sandal by Patrizia; Teva stretch cord gladiator sandals.
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From top: Aerosoles quilted leather slide; Lug sole platform sandal by Azura.
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Aetrex leather sport sandals with adjustable strap and contoured footbed. Opposite page: waterproof suede and nubuck trail shoes by Dansko.
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Andre Assous lightweight flatform slides. Opposite page, from top: Remonte suede penny moc; sneaker with zipper detail by Taos; chunky jogger by Javi. Fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; model: Julia Oli/Supreme Management; hair and makeup: Sandradene Fearon/Next Artists; photo assistant: Eileen Viglietta. 34
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Intelligent Design Sarah Sclarandis, designer of her eponymous label, utilizes decades of shoe wisdom to make the grade. By Greg Dutter
S
CLARANDIS MADE ITS debut in 2017, but one could argue that the label has been in the making for more than 20 years. That’s because Founder/Designer Sarah Sclarandis has incorporated her extensive shoe wisdom learned during her tenures at Benetton, G.H. Bass, Banana Republic, Juicy Couture, Donna Karan, and Alice & Olivia, among others. Each stop, like her earlier years working alongside master craftsmen in Varese, Italy—as well as with factory partners in Spain, Brazil, Vietnam, and China—has been an invaluable learning experience that she has applied to her label. “When I’m delving into the design of a new collection or concept, I rely on my treasury of shoe wisdom to infuse creativity into my shoes,” Sclarandis says, noting that includes listening to and watching people in cities around the world. “My aim is to always embrace a perpetual sense of curiosity and optimism, because you never know what awaits you and the possibilities that those might bring to the design process.” The result is classic, well-made, and beautiful shoes designed to take women from day to night. Sclarandis, for one, is a customer. “For many years, I walked everywhere in crazy skyscraper heels,” she says. “Fast forward a few years and two foot surgeries later, I craved beautifully made shoes with timeless lines that I could actually walk in!” The designer adds, “Once I had kids, I wanted both comfort and style, and I wasn’t willing to compromise. Hence, Sclarandis was born.” For Sclarandis, it’s about how the shoes feel as much as they look. In fact, in all her years sitting in design meetings, she recalls how people rarely mentioned how the shoes feel. “I love building shoes from the inside out, using buttery soft leathers that feel light on the foot,” she explains. “I want the inside as much as the outside to be comfortable; it’s important to have extra cushioning in the insoles.” Signature Sclarandis styles include the Nina ballerina, Lara flat, and Stella pump, all of which feature a distinct and elegant V-neckline. “It’s been a wellreceived design feature since our launch,” Sclarandis says, noting the addition of new materials and colors have kept the styles fresh. That includes the Nina in a star glitter print that’s consistently sold out. “There’s definitely a little ’80s nostalgia to my designs,” she adds. Another signature design element are ankle ties, like the Ravello and Siena sandals and Silvia boot. “Adding a unique, distinctive design detail makes a shoe extra special,” Sclarandis says.
Sarah Sclarandis
Above all, Sclarandis says her approach is to reimagine classic styles with fresh touches. “Leather trends come and go, but soft leathers and suedes are always in style,” she says. “And I love pops of color, especially red and metallics, which are trending right now, as well as printed stripes.” She is her own muse. “I often consider what is lacking in my wardrobe, and I firmly believe in the principles of slow fashion over fast trends,” she says. “Sclarandis is about timeless style, well-made constructions, and long-lasting quality.” What have been some of the best takeaways from your previous design experiences? Designing doesn’t happen in a vacuum. When I worked at DKNY, our creative director always asked us to think about the end use and who the customer was. This was ingrained in my thought process as I looked for inspiration and began working on Sclarandis. It was very motivating. And what I learned from my experience helping launch Juicy Couture Footwear was to listen closely to the business partners and understand that the ultimate common goal often resulted in best-selling collections. How would you describe Sclarandis’s overall aesthetic? Growing up in Italy, I was surrounded by architectural wonders, art, design, and fashion. Design is part of Italian culture, and objects are designed to last. Their aesthetic is timeless and well-made. So I naturally gravitate towards beautifully made objects with clean lines that are simple, elegant, and effortless. In what ways has your multi-cultural background influenced your design process? My Italian father was a travel photographer and my Egyptian mother worked for a UN organization, so travel is part of my DNA. I grew up in Italy and later moved to the United Kingdom, where I studied footwear design at De Montford University, Ravello Leicester. It’s the only university in the world that 75 mm offers a BA Honors Degree in Footwear design. After wood heel graduating, I moved back to Italy, where I started my sandals career working for Benetton. When I moved to the in soft kid U.S., first to work for G.H.Bass, I had no idea what suede. Bucks or Weejuns were, but I wanted to redesign these iconic styles by giving them a more European flair, especially in the materials Who is the Sclarandis customer? Our clientele typically runs late 30s to older. She has a busy,
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Mara leather platform sandals with rubber soles. multitasking life, and needs shoes to match this lifestyle. She’s stylish and sophisticated, and possesses an admiration for luxurious shoes and accessories, not to mention a keen appreciation for Italian craftsmanship, quality, and fit. She loves clean and strong styles, and she has a collection of timeless fashion pieces in her wardrobe. How’s business been this year overall? There have definitely been some roller coaster moments. This year has been challenging and inspiring, at the same time! There are still post-pandemic effects, like higher minimums and shipping costs. Many suppliers in Italy have also closed, which has forced us to seek alternatives. That undeniably led to some bottleneck delays. However, the unexpected bright spot has been the incredible support and willingness from others to assist and help us persevere. What are key goals for 2024? My core objective is to draw more attention to our website and foster increased collaborations, be it pop-ups and trunk shows. The focus is on enhancing our visibility. Another goal is to find a business partner who has a well-established track record in sales strategy. I’m looking for someone who is enthusiastic about joining this venture and contributing to its growth in exchange for equity in the business. Where do you envision Sclarandis in three years? I see a future with a more significant ecommerce footprint on various platforms and a bigger presence in brick-and-mortar stores. Beyond that, it’s to continue creating shoes I love to wear crafted from sustainable materials and in collaboration with trusted factories and suppliers. We source our leathers from LWG certified tanneries and compliant Italian factories. I’m excited about the sustainable advancements in our ever-evolving industry that will contribute to a healthier planet. Furthermore, I’m committed to expanding our affiliations with charities, ensuring that we maintain our tradition of contributing a portion of sales to causes that are dear to us. What are you most proud of about Sclarandis? I look back with immense pride at what I’ve achieved, much of what’s been done on my own. The deep passion for my work has been a driving force. However, being a small startup can be challenging. It’s not easy handling everything from creative design to factory negotiations to logistics to event planning, etc. But it’s honed a multitude of skills. It’s all a part of my gathering shoe wisdom, which I treasure.
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Do you have a favorite style in your collection? That’s like asking a mother to pick her favorite child! I love our Greta boot in blue leopard, because it’s a classic silhouette in an unexpected material. Our Siena sandal and Mara flatform sandal in buttery soft leathers are like wearing a glove, and they complete an outfit. The Lara pointy flat is another favorite that we’ll be recoloring for spring. The Diana asymmetric sandal is a new addition that I also love.
Strategy + Content + Design
What is the best design advice you’ve ever received? Stay focused and true to yourself, keep an open mind, and listen to your gut. Who are some designers you admire? I’ve always admired designers who have a distinct style and stick to their creative philosophy, like Jil Sander, Dries Van Noten, Isabel Marant, and Martin Margiela. I’m also influenced by the iconic Italian designers Salvatore Ferragamo and Andrea Pfister. What style must every woman have in their wardrobe? Trends come and go, but certain styles never go out of style, like an almond toe pump, a round ballerina or pointy flat, a chunky lug sole boot, a dressy knee-high boot, and ankle bootie on a medium heel. And, for summer, an ankle tie gladiator sandal and a kitten or a straight heel sandal are wardrobe musts. What is your first shoe-related memory? I’ve obsessed about shoes ever since I can remember. When I was about five, I’d drag my mother around shoe stores and couldn’t wait to grow up and have my own money to buy whatever shoes I wanted. My dream came true!
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What do you love most about designing shoes? I love the entire process, from start to finish. Particularly, I love working with the last makers at Formificio Romagnolo near Florence, Italy. There are only a handful of these incredible artisans left. I also love that it’s a relatively small industry, and that someone knows someone who can point you in the right direction. We shoe people are a strange breed!
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U P C L O S E C O M F O RT
Green is Good Green Market Services expands portfolio with launch of a sustainable brand. FOR MORE THAN 50 YEARS, Green Market Services (GMS) has been a reliable sourcing partner for private label brands and licensors. And for the past 20 years, it has specialized in making slippers for the entire family. But as times change and the Brockton, MA-based company seeks new revenue streams, it pivoted, earlier this year, with the DTC launch of Green ReActives, a sustainably designed women’s brand that feels like comfortable slippers but with the support and stability of casual shoes. GMS’s first own brand is expanding into wholesale next year. Green ReActives (a mash-up of relax and active) feature soft knit uppers and laces engineered from 100 percent recycled plastic bottles, removable cushioned footbeds made of 30 percent recycled materials, EVA midsoles injected with biodegradable sugarcane, and chrome-free suedes. The shoes are also packaged in recycled carboard boxes that feature less material overall. Seeing how GMS owns exclusive rights to the word “green” within the shoe industry—and consumers increasingly wanting to buy sustainably made goods—it was deemed too good of an opportunity to pass up, according to Kosta Nicolopoulos, vice president of Brand and Business Development. “We already know how to design and manufacture comfortable shoes, and we think it’s time to explore a new line under our own name—one dedicated to using recycled materials and sustainable practices,” he says. “We believe the time—and the times—are right for Green ReActives.” Nicolopoulos believes the timing is also right in terms of dress codes and workplaces trends that reflect the brand’s hybrid concept. The fact is that five-day office weeks are still the exception, no matter how some financial titans long for a return to business attire weekly grinds. The remote working masses have dug their casual heels in on this lifestyle shift. “Green ReActives is targeted at moms with a busy lifestyle, where they may be working from home and have to run out the door to pick up the kids from school, do some errands, or pop into their office,” he explains. “They’re looking for footwear that supportive with more active styling. It’s a totally different look, and also a more premium price of $80 to $95 retail.” Tom Connelly, president/CEO of GMS, says the seeds to Green ReActives
uplifting messaging (often embroidered on the vamps of slippers) is resonating strongly with consumers, and they like the moderate price point.” While slipper sales may no longer be at their pandemic peak, Connelly believes the category is more established than ever before and has plenty of more growth potential. “A lot of people are still working in hybrid set-ups, and many have gotten accustomed to wearing slippers,” he says. “It’s become a staple in their wardrobes; no longer an item that they put on just when they get home. They’re wearing slippers during zoom meetings as well as running out to do errands. They want more versatility in their slippers, and they’re also often buying multiple pairs to accessorize with various outfits.” It’s why GMS is deepening its assortment beyond traditional categories, including outdoorfriendly, year-round, and spa styles. GMS has the sourcing relationships in place to produce a broader assortment and to meet a growing demand. Some of the company’s approximately 20 Chinese factory partnerships date back 40 years. “We also have sourcing partners in Vietnam, Cambodia, and, just recently, we added Laos,” Connelly says. “We have no problem meeting orders.” Thus, the CEO’s overall goal to do more business, period. “We’re expanding our product assortments as much as we can with the brand partners we have, and we’re forever looking for new customers,” he says, noting GMS is nurturing a handful of sizable new private label accounts as well as a couple of licensing possibilities that could launch in 2024. “We’re nimble and adaptable, and we have a great network of suppliers, design resources, and QC teams on the ground to make sure the product is right—and we do right by our customers. That’s all we can ever do.” Nicolopoulos says long-term success comes down to having great partnerIndoors and outdoors: ships with suppliers and customers— Life is Good and Green ReActives. and delivering. “We’re able to adjust up or down on orders, and we can accelerate or delay shipments to help our retailers manage their businesses better with regards to open-to-buys and inventories,” he says. “We always do our best to help them navigate any disruptions—all while delivering exceptional product.” —Greg Dutter
were actually planted in 2019—before the world was turned upside down by the pandemic. In fact, the brand would have made its debut a couple years ago, if it weren’t for all the ensuing supply chain disruptions. “The conversation started in an effort for us to get more business,” he says, noting that plans are in the Clarks works to expand the brand into men’s and possibly kids’ this coming year. “What were some steps that we’d never taken—like launching our own brand.” So far so good, Nicolopoulos reports. “We’ve received a good response with plenty of great customer reviews. Those who’ve bought Green ReActives, love it,” he says. “But the internet is a very crowded space, and you need to spend a lot of money to attract consumers’ attention. That’s why we’re excited to officially introduce the brand to retailers at The Atlanta Shoe Market this February, because today you’ve got to have both DTC and wholesale channels.” Other areas GMS is targeting for growth lie in its wheelhouse of making slippers for its Clarks (since 2010) and Life is Good (2021) licenses, as well as its stable of private label customers. Both Clarks and Life is Good have been performing well the past few years. “Our Life is Good slippers, water shoes, and rubber boots have been a real bright spot,” Nicolopoulos reports. “The fun and
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T R E N D S P OT T I N G
Ace Marks
COURT IS IN SESSION
A l l r i s e f o r t h e c l a s s i c m e n’s s i l h o u e t t e .
NeroGiardini
Gola
Rieker
Ecco
Sorel
2023 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 39
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L A S T S HO T
Pastel Perfect
Lamo
Giulia Taddeucci
Spring Step
Fly London Evaluna
Alegria
Corral Boots
Purple Gaze Lilac and lavender cover the field this spring.
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