Footwear Plus | October/November 2021

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021 VOL 31 • ISSUE 9 • $10

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OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021

F E AT U R E S 12 Restoration Software Mark Parsley, CEO of Earth Shoes, is the lead architect behind the company’s extesive rennovations and building projects.

By Greg Dutter 18 Great Expectations Amid an unprecedented labor shortage, here are ways retailers can attain and retain good employees.

By Michele Silver 22 No Laces Required Men’s office shoes redefined for the new normal.

By Ann Loynd Burton 24 Prairie Chic Clog silhouettes add structure and detail to the simple life aesthetic.

By Ann Loynd Burton

D E PA RT M E N T S 4 Editor’s Note

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Emily Beckman Associate Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Ann Loynd Burton Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Tim Regas Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptil Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director

6 This Just In: Milan 8 Scene & Heard 20 A Note to My Younger Self 36 Shoe Salon 38 Upclose Athletic 40 Last Shot

WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO OFFICES

On cover: Naot metallic snakeskin print clogs; felt clogs with braided detail by Aetrex.

PA G E

24

Wool clogs with cork footbed by Taos.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss; Styling by Nancy Campbell; Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; Models: Rebecca Hanobik/Fenton Model Mgmt., Linnea Turner/Supreme Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/Ray Brown Pro; Photo assistant: Tara Campbell.

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.

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2 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

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E D ITOR’S NOTE

Go the Distance

IF YOU BUILD IT...

WILL THEY COME? That’s a pretty wide-open question, and not only when hauntingly whispered by a baseball-loving deity from the shadows of an Iowa cornfield. It applies to anything that’s created, be it a brand, a store, a shoe, a baseball field, etc., etc. The answer is relatively easy: Only if what you build is worthy.

Achieving that lofty standard, of course, is the hard part.

But it can be done. Take, for example, the photos featured here. They are of Shaker Mill Books and adjacent Shaker Gristmill in West Stockbridge, MA. (My wife came across this gem of a store during a reunion weekend with old workmates and gets the photo credit.) As its website states, the two spaces house an eclectic collection of more than 30,000 used, rare, antiquarian, out-of-print and new books.

There are subjects for all ages, and the shop’s photography and art book sections, as well as local history titles, are particularly noteworthy. The Shaker Gristmill, housed in a landmarked building, serves as an art gallery of oversized books and whimsical literary-themed displays, including owner Eric Wilska’s typewriter collection (which children are encouraged to experiment with) and museum-worthy book art displays, like local artist Deb Carter’s Read Dress gown created with thousands of pages from the Oxford Dictionary.

Even the sales counter is a work of art, built entirely of books. The big picture point: What Wilska built is definitely worth visiting.

Books provide an ideal tactile shopping experience—just like shoes. You can feel and smell the leather. You can skim a book jacket and try on shoes before purchasing. You can hear from sales experts about why it’s a good read, or a good fit. And while you may not want to taste a book or a shoe, offering customers a seasonally themed, complimentary beverage can round out an entertaining shopping experience. Best of all, if you find what you’re looking for, you can avoid the hassle of having to ship back returns.

This issue is filled with exciting “if you build it…” efforts. They include Birkenstock’s announcement of its plans to invest approximately $100

million to expand one factory and build a new one to meet its rapidly growing demand. CEO Oliver Reichert discusses (P. 10) why the substantial commitment is worth making. Specifically, the exec explains why outsourcing production from Germany is simply not an option.

Another noteworthy new building project (p. 8) is Pensole Design Academy’s plans to become the Pensole Lewis College of Business and Design in partnership with the College for Creative Studies in Detroit. This is a big deal. When approved by state officials, Pensole founder Dr. D’Wayne Edwards, in partnership with cofounders Target and the Gilbert Family Foundation, will be reopening the state’s sole Historically Black College and University and what, he says, will be a destination for sneaker design and many related studies. Even better, tuition for the majority of students will be free! Edwards, who has a growing track record of making the unheard of a reality, is to be commended for his tremendous building efforts.

Last but surely not least on this issue’s building theme is our Q&A (p. 12) with Mark Parsley, CEO of Earth Shoes. The veteran exec is heading up a comprehensive renovations and new building plan—one that’s highlighted by the repositioning of Earth into a lifestyle brand. Parsley believes the sky’s the limit for the entire company and goes into convincing Shopping detail on why. For starters, he too for books is has a career track record proving it FUNdamental can be done. Beyond that, his canat Shaker Mill Books do-now attitude is refreshing at a and Shaker time of epic industry disruption and Gristmill. paralysis brought on primarily by the pandemic. Parsley admits there’s never been a more challenging time in his 30-plus years in the biz. Not. Even. Close. The supply chain woes are truly a nightmare, one that looks to last at least until next spring. It’s easy to want to stick your head in the sand and wait for this pandemic to hopefully completely blow over. But Parsley is a born builder and doer, and knows well that a building never builds itself. So kudos to him for keeping at it at a time of unprecedented obstacles, one brick at a time.

Along those lines, I’m confident the world will build a better supply chain…soon. And when it does, from a shoe industry perspective, it could very well unleash a pent-up demand that dwarfs the one generated by a few months of store closures last spring—at a time when there was plenty of inventory available. So, if we build the shoes (and deliver them), will consumers come? Definitely!

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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6 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

SCENE & HEARD

Pensole Design Academy Planning Huge Step Edwards is excited about Pensole’s relocation to Detroit—the only THE PENSOLE DESIGN Academy is going to college! The Portland, U.S. city that has been designated a UNESCO city of design. “If you OR-based sneaker design school has petitioned the state of Michigan to haven’t visited Detroit in a while, take a trip,” he offers. “You’ll see a become the newly formed Pensole Lewis College of Business and Design in lot of growth, innovation, creativity and, of course, pride.” The school partnership with the College for Creative Studies (CCS). When approved, will be located in CCS’s state-of-the-art A. Alfred Taubman Center for the Detroit-based institution will be the state’s sole HBCU (Historically Design Education until its permanent home in Detroit is selected and Black College and University) when it reopens for classes on Detroit Day, developed. That aside, Edwards hopes Pensole won’t be leaving Portland Mar. 13, 2022. Enrollment is expected to open in December. entirely. “We’re in talks with Portland State University to continue to offer Dr. D’Wayne Edwards, founder of the Pensole Design Academy Pensole programming,” he says. “Portland is where we were founded, and majority shareholder of the Lewis College of Business, along with and it’s important for us to always have a footprint there, and PSU is cofounding partners from the Gilbert Family Foundation and Target, the right partner for us to do this with.” will offer free tuition to a majority of students, supporting aspiring Speaking of partners, Edwards says none of this would be possible Black creatives, designers, engineers and business leaders. The school without the cofounders generous support. The Gilbert Family Foundation’s will be the first HBCU to focus on design. It’ll also be the first HBCU involvement, in particular, is part of its $500 million joint commitin the country to officially reopen. ment to its hometown of Detroit to drive access to economic and social Edwards says the school will mark a big step forward for sneaker opportunity and increase equity design, as well as additional fields of for residents. It’s a collective effort, study. “This allows us to show Black Edwards hopes, that will help turn kids globally what is possible for other the tide on low enrollment and design careers on a product creation graduation rates among Blacks team,” he says, noting that Pensole attending traditional design colalready teaches color and materials, leges in universities nationwide. functional apparel and 3D design.

Edwards cites a lack of exposure “With College of Creative Studies and to design careers as well as high new corporate partners, we’ll expand tuition costs as key factors fuelinto graphic, brand, packaging, UX ing those negative statistics. “Our and even furniture design.” goal is to work towards improving Indeed, the college will be like those numbers by removing barriPensole on steroids. Edwards says ers so we can provide a future for the partnership will provide more the students who will be responaccess to faculty, equipment, facilities sible for creating it,” he says. “Our and structure than ever before. “In intentions are so needed, and I’m addition to new footwear company blessed to have some amazing partnerships, we’ll be able to offer Dr. D’Wayne Edwards in front of the future home of founding partners in the Gilbert more variety in the areas of footthe Pensole Lewis College of Business and Design in Detroit.

Family Foundation, Target and wear design instruction, ranging College for Creative Studies, who believe in me and the entire Pensole from performance, lifestyle, casual, dress, outdoor and luxury,” he team to go on this journey with us.” says, adding that future designers need to be more diverse in their Edwards is also tremendously excited about what the new college abilities to meet changing market needs. “Since they are dictating represents, personally. Not only were HBCUs first established because the future of our industry, we need to prepare them to be the leaders most colleges and universities used to prohibit Blacks from attendour industry needs.” ing, he notes that the schools are now inclusive to all races. Notable For Target, the collaboration is part of its Racial Equity Action and HBCU graduates include Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., Oprah Winfrey, Change (REACH) strategy, formed in 2020, to accelerate the retailer’s Kamala Harris, Thurgood Marshall, Spike Lee and Samuel L. Jackson, work to advance racial equity and its five-year, $100 million commitamong many others. Edwards is looking forward to adding the next ment to fuel the economic prosperity of Black communities. “With notable names to this list. a deep history in democratizing design, Target is proud to support In the meantime, the Pensole Lewis College of Business and Design Dr. D’Wayne Edwards and aspiring Black designers through the Pensole now sits at the top of Edwards’ list of career achievements. “I’ve had an Lewis College of Business and Design,” states Amanda Nusz, senior amazing 32-year career as a designer and educator that continues to vice president of corporate responsibility at Target and president of the evolve, but I never in my wildest dreams thought this would be possible,” Target Foundation. “This partnership represents an important part of he says. “What we’re attempting to do has never been done before, which our broader commitment that aims to support the next generation of gets me excited. This is another reminder for me to dream bigger, simply Black talent, expand the impact of Black-led movements and voices, and because dreams are free and we constantly limit ourselves.” create economic opportunity in Black communities across the country.”

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

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SCENE & HEARD

Birkenstock Investing $100 Million to Meet Growing Demand Gore-Tex to Debut More Sustainable Membrane

tk

IT’S BEEN IN the works for more than a decade, but that’s just how W. L. Gore & Associates, makers of Gore-Tex waterproof linings, rolls. A new innovation doesn’t hit the market until it meets the company’s stringent performance standards. Now its ePE material is ready, beginning with a limited introduction for Fall/Winter ’22 in lifestyle footwear and outdoor garments from select partners (but not limited to) Adidas, Salomon, Arc’Teryx and Patagonia.

What makes ePE a big deal? In a nutshell, strength and sustainability. The material is a thinner yet equally durable and waterproof as previous Gore-Tex membranes, but its production involves a lighter environmental footprint. Achieving the latter, says Matt Schreiner, consumer fabrics sustainability champion, is a company cornerstone. “Our founders (Bill and Vieve Gore) built into our culture an obligation to not just make the best products, but also protect the planet and the communities we operate in,” he says, adding that it’s what the company’s brand partners also demand. “Our customers are working hard to improve their own planetary impacts, so they set the bar high for us.”

What makes the ePE lining more sustainable is its physical properties of being thinner and lighter, as well featuring recycled and solution-dyed performance textiles and no PFCs used. Matt Decker, global technical leader for Gore’s Consumer Apparel, Fabrics division, notes that new membrane is “roughly half the mass and thickness” of its current materials, but with the same mechanical strength and toughness. “We knew we were really onto something after our laminates were put through the rigorous field evaluations and still performing similarly to our existing laminates,” he says. Thus, ePE meets Gore Tex’s tagline: “Guaranteed to keep you dry.” Decker adds, “It’s more than a tagline. It’s a promise that we make that our customers expect.”

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

conditions under which the products they IF YOU BUILD it, more sandals will come. buy are made. “The fact that we own the That’s the gist behind Birkenstock’s recent vast majority of the supply chain gives our announcement that it is investing about $100 customers the confidence that they can rely million in the expansion of its production facilon our products being manufactured to the ity in Gorlitz, Germany and opening of a new highest environmental and social standards factory (focused on EVA and PU product) at in the industry,” he says. a to-be-determined location in the country in As for the announcement that the new 2023. When it’s all said and done, Birkenstock factory will be focused on EVA and PU CEO Oliver Reichert says the company will products, Reichert says the growth potential ramp up production from its current 30 milin the segment—even before the pandemiclion pairs annually to 40 million to possibly induced new normal trig50 million pairs. gered a wave in popularity “As a democratic brand, for such styles—certainly we want our consumers to warrants the investment. have access to our product, “The EVA category is quite which was a challenge in substantial, and having more recent years,” Reichert says. capabilities to expand dis“We see so much growth tribution just helps us bring opportunities—not just in our our unique benefits to concork sandals but also in our sumers,” he says, adding that closed-toe shoes, orthopedic Birkenstock’s entrance into insoles and our very successful the category a few years back EVA and PU products—that broke new ground. “Until having the ability to better we did our version, no one scale the business will allow ever incorporated a design us to continue this amazing that is anatomically correct growth trajectory.” He adds, Oliver Reichert, and has true orthopedic “As a brand with a 247-year CEO of Birkenstock benefits,” he says. “So while history, these investments an EVA sandal is considered an entry-price are made with the next 247 in mind.” tier, it provides similar foot health benefits But why not just outsource production to to the wearer.” meet the growing demand? Reichert says What’s more, Reichert believes the EVA that’s simply not an option for Birkenstock, and PU categories are 100 percent increwhich demands the closest control on its mental to the brand’s cork-based business. quality standards. In fact, the exec says “Someone who may own multiple pairs of the decision to basically double down on Birkenstocks may now have a version for its European-based production is another casual wear, for outdoor/adventure, for the example of how the company is an outlier beach/pool/spa and on and on,” he says. in the industry—in a good way, he believes.

Specifically, Reichert says its EVA sandals “Investments on a scale like this in the heart are for athleisure-oriented wear and are of Europe are an absolute exception in an easy to throw in a beach or gym bag, while industry that has largely outsourced prothe outdoor sandals feature a cork-latex duction to third-party suppliers in Asia,” he footbed and sturdy PU soles suitable for confirms. “This is a statement that we will campsites and trails and the professional never compromise our brand DNA and the safety clogs meet the needs of the medical, quality and the workmanship that people value food handcraft and gardening markets. “All in all things Birkenstock.” This Europeanthree premium plastic product lines are based heritage, Reichert believes, is one that part of a 360-degree lifestyle of our brand also resonates well with a new generation fans,” Reichert says. of consumers, who are more sensitive to the

SCENE & HEARD

FDRA Introduces Sustainability Guide IT WAS NINE months in the making, involving a collaborative effort from across the industry spectrum, and now it’s here: the first-ever shoe sustainability guide for brands and retailers so they can collectively make more ecofriendly decisions. Specifically, the guide enables companies to make better, faster and easier choices when it comes to a range of sustainable materials chosen and sourced. FDRA (Footwear Distributors & Retailers of America) worked with dozens of suppliers for months to develop the guide with a key focus on providing much-needed clarity and targets—both of which have been lacking and hindering sustainability efforts.

Andy Polk, FDRA’s senior vice president, says the guide will immediately help clear up the muddy waters on what is and isn’t sustainable materials, so companies can source better materials with greater ease.

“There’s a lot of decision paralysis with many companies because they don’t have benchmarks or targets, and this should help get more of the industry moving forward faster,” he says. “It provides a roadmap and strategy so many companies need now.” Looking further out, Polk says FDRA’s Green North Star targets will help align the industry so it can lower development costs and increase sustainable material innovation.

“It should also help foster more collaborations to solve complex and costly challenges around sustainable materials,” he adds.

Polk says putting the guide together took a village—an industry-sized one. “It was the largest collaboration on any project, other than fighting tariffs, FDRA has seen from the industry,” he says. “We had group calls with nearly 200 shoe experts, brands and suppliers sharing ideas. There were also probably 50-plus major companies with input and comments

over a nine-month period.” Notable shoutouts for making the guide a reality, he says, go to Caleres’ team for helping craft the overall vision, and Wolverine Worldwide, Steve Madden, Keen and several other major companies that helped with some of the more intricate work on percentages and practices.

Speaking of which, the guide is focused on providing environmentally preferred material (EPM) thresholds that companies can use to benchmark current sustainability efforts against the industry average; help with choosing more sustainable materials; and aligning companies on goals to increase overall impact and lower costs. The guide also informs retailers about material requirements that are tailored to shoes instead of clothing or other products that do not meet the industry’s product performance levels.

As Polk says, there’s a lot of noise and confusion surrounding sustainability—a lot of “you should” instead of “how to,” as well as little benchmarking on eco-friendly efforts. The guide helps the industry head collectively in the right direction, i.e. there’s strength in numbers.

While Polk notes a lot of progress has been made on the sustainability front, especially of late, much of it remains piecemeal. “Most companies still lack an overarching strategy to tie efforts together, and their departments are not always fully aligned to maximize efforts,” he says.

“This guide helps designers to development to sourcing teams share a common idea on sustainable materials so we can choose the right one from the start and align across departments to execute accurately.” He adds, “We want to make a sustainability roadmap to help people navigate the journey better.”

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BY GREG

DUTTER

RESTORATION SOFTWARE M a r k Pa r s l e y, C E O o f E a r t h S h o e s , i s t h e l e a d a r c h i t e c t b e h i n d t h e c o m p a n y ’s extensive renovations and building projects.

MARK PARSLEY HAS been quite busy.

Since joining Earth Shoes in February 2020 as president (he was named CEO this July), the veteran shoe exec has rolled up his sleeves to reimagine, redesign and rebuild the entire operation. It involves an all-hands-on-deck effort spanning brand repositions, product extensions, portfolio additions (the first is the Tamaris license for North American distribution beginning this fall), a complete overhauling of the ecommerce platform and a customer service department revamp and relocation, to cite a few projects. Not even the pandemic and its epic industry-wide disruption has put the brakes on Parsley’s vision to transform Earth Shoes into what he sees as the company’s vast untapped potential. And he’s not the only believer: Private investment firm Windsong Global and Hilco Brands’ recently acquired a majority stake in the company that, Parsley says, will provide the financial foundation to make his vision a reality.

“My intent from day one was to find a partner that will enable us to do all the things that need and could be done, and Windsong Global is definitely that partner,” Parsley says. “They aren’t just investors.

They want to be both an investor and an operator.” Parsley adds that Windsong will provide the baseline of financial support, in good times and bad. “I don’t care how strong or how bad your businesses may be, it’s all about cash flow,” he says. “Companies need that consistent level of support, and this investment makes us a strong company so we can be around for another 50 years.”

Parsley believes the investment is a win-win scenario for all parties involved. First, Earth Shoes’ founders, the Meynard family, get to unburden themselves of day-to-day fiscal responsibilities. (Current chairman Philippe Meynard remains on the company’s board of directors and will work on special development projects.) Second, Windsong can tap into Earth Shoes’ extensive footwear-making capabilities for its portfolio. Third, Earth Shoes can tap into Windsong’s lifestyle product expertise for what Parsley believes is a brand name 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

Q&A with limitless lifestyle potential, especially given consumers’ increasing concerns about sustainability and social good.

“Windsong’s expertise in accessories, apparel and sportswear will give us the opportunity to build the Earth brand beyond footwear,” Parsley says, noting that the lifestyle brand repositioning is based on three pillars: community, hope and action, as well as finding ways to build a better Earth. “I can’t think of a better brand name to talk about matters related to sustainability and community.

I believe we can check off all the boxes and help build a better Earth—a call to action in whatever we make to have some sort of purpose that’s good for the planet,” Parsley says. “We want consumers to be part of the conversation so we can all work together to find a better way.”

In some regards, Parsley started on his Earth Shoes’ journey even before he officially arrived in early 2020. He always saw the potential. “I knew the power of this brand and what it represents,” he says. “I’m excited about the future because I have a great partner in Windsong, and they believe in us and support us 110 percent. The future really looks bright for us.”

Of course, the pandemic’s dark clouds are still thick. Until those skies clear, Parsley expects business to remain challenging for everyone.

Sourcing, shipping, pricing…it’s all upside down and epically unpredictable. “It’s just been nuts,” he says. “These last 18 months have been the most challenging of my career, on all fronts.” Parsley says there’s no playbook; everyone must do their best to pivot and find ways to source and ship shoes.

“We’re trying to figure our way out of Asia because of the problems with logistics, all the craziness with the ports and just what’s going on in the world in general,” he says. “It’s unbelievable how many companies are trying to look elsewhere to source right now—Mexico, Brazil, Portugal, Spain and Turkey are now big hot spots for footwear.”

Parsley says navigating the disruption is a workin-progress for Earth Shoes, but he awards high marks to the company for weathering the storm.

“For us to overcome all the hurdles—even before Covid—and put this company on the right track… it’s amazing what we’ve accomplished,” he says.

“I’m really proud of that.”

The way Parsley sees it, he’s already got the solid foundation in place. Having spent nearly 20 years working at Jimlar Corp. and Mark Fisher Footwear, he knows that’s the key. “One thing I learned at those companies is that it’s like building a house,” he says. “If you have a really good foundation, then you can start putting that second, third, etc. floors on. Earth Shoes has the foundation to do what I was part of doing during 20 years of brand acquisitions and license deals.” Parsley adds, “I know how that process works, and that’s the vision for Earth Shoes.”

In addition to a solid foundation, new investors and a hand-picked team joining the effort, Parsley points to another factor that bodes well for Earth

OFF THE CUFF What are you reading? I wish I had time to read right now.

But when I do, I love James Patterson and John Grisham novels.

What was the last show you streamed? Ted Lasso. I’ve been looking forward to Friday nights when a new episode comes out.

In what way has the pandemic changed your life most?

It made me realize the importance of social interaction, which I think I sort of took for granted before. Zoom is fine, but it doesn’t replace that

one-on-one interaction. And email, in my opinion, is just kicking the can down the road. None of it comes close to being in-person, and when you’re not able to collaborate in-person you lose purpose and that can create negativity.

I’m a big believer that positive energy gets positive results.

What is your favorite hometown memory? I’m from Charleston, WV, and it’s Sundays going to church with my family followed by big meals at my grandparents’ farm. I’d be in the yard playing with all my cousins before our big dinners together. It was like Thanksgiving every Sunday.

Any business wisdom you’d care to bestow? Create your

Shoes going forward. Despite all the logistical chaos and macro shifts in how consumers shop and what they are buying, demand overall for shoes and, in particular, for Earth Shoes’ brands remains strong, he reports. “Our customers love our shoes and are very loyal to our brands,” Parsley says, noting sales are up this year and bookings for next spring have increased significantly. “Our product reviews are amazing—they’re our golden ticket.”

The biggest challenge now is meeting demand.

“We really don’t have the inventory we normally have, and that’s a problem,” Parsley admits. Of course, that’s a relatively good problem to have.

“We have to look at the glass as half full,” he says.

“We have to be proactive, not reactive. We have to take it one day at a time and do what we can to make a positive difference in our business. We’ll get through this. We’ll find a way to survive and to succeed.”

Despite the industry-wide disruption of late, you appear to be executing a sound plan to transform Earth Shoes.

We are, and I think that’s a big reason Windsong not only liked owning the IP of Earth, but they saw the infrastructure already in place with a team of seasoned footwear executives. It’s a winwin. There’s going to be a lot of opportunity for

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

own opportunities. No one is going to knock down your door.

What are you most proud of?

My three kids, for sure.

What is your favorite word?

Excited. That’s just how I look at life. I’m excited about the opportunity life brings.

What is your least favorite word? No. What is your motto?

“Salesmanship begins when they say no.” I never, ever give up.

Anyone can take an order, but the real challenge is getting a no and then figuring out how to still get the sale.

us to learn from each other, and we’re looking at other footwear companies, whether it’s through a license or an acquisition. Of course, no one planned on the pandemic but, despite everything that it’s unleashed, we’re moving forward with our plans—from the lifestyle reposition of the Earth brand to all the other extensive plans to reinvent and build this company. On that note, we just introduced our first lifestyle brand extension in the form of an Earth Origins sock that features 20 percent recycled fibers. It’s made by Windsong’s Daytona Apparel Group division. Going forward, we can assist in making footwear for some of their brands. We have the platform already in place.

The brands currently in the portfolio are now more distinct from each other, correct?

Yes. Before I came aboard, there was Earth, Earth Origins and Earth Sphere. The latter being our Walmart brand that we’ve been doing for 28 years.

However, Earth and Earth Origins were the same shoes, just priced differently. So we decided to reposition Earth and then we’ll relaunch it properly this spring. Meanwhile, Earth Elements is now our better, more sustainable brand that’s sits between Kalso and Earth Origins, price-wise. Elements is sold at better-grade independents as well as department stores like Nordstrom and Dillard’s,

ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST A look back on Mark Parsley’s three-plus decades of building sales, brands and, now, an entire company.

June 2022 Pier Sixty, New York City GALA CHAIR skechers RIck graham svp corporate Sales and visual marketing

t. kenyon holly memorial award cliff sifford

ceo and vice chair, shoe carnival

a.a. bloom memorial award glenn barrett

founder and ceo, ortholite

ONE TEAM

june, 2022

ALL I N

AS A CHILD growing up in Charleston, WV, Mark Parsley dreamed of becoming an architect. And while a career in structural design didn’t pan out, the veteran shoe exec never lost his love of buildings—and building businesses.

“To this day, I’m obsessed with architectural design,” Parsley says. “When shopping the market, I’m looking at the buildings as much as shoes. And if I walked into your house, I’d probably suggest knocking down a wall or something.”

Parsley credits his ability to “see through things” as a talent that serves him well in building shoes and brands. “I can look at a sketch or a prototype and visualize what that shoe could look like completed and why it could be successful,” he says.

“It’s a structure, just like a building.” The same goes for brand building.

Parsley’s building talents have served him well in other facets of the business. It started with his knack for building impressive sales numbers and solid relationships— first as a rep for Allen Edmonds, followed by successful runs with Bostonian and Timberland. During this period, Parsley built quite a reputation: His name increasingly came up in C-suite circles discussing potential managerial up-and-comers. Industry trailblazers Larry and Jim Tarica, former owners of Jimlar Corp., were two such Parsley spotters. They hired him as a senior vice president in 1998. But, as shoe lore goes, it wasn’t that simple. Parsley had just accepted a position managing East Coast sales for Ecco when Larry Tarica called, out of the blue, with a job offer. Parsley initially said thanks, but no thanks. The Taricas persisted, luring him with an offer to learn the business from the ground up.

“Larry wouldn’t take no for an answer,” Parsley recalls. He finally agreed to meet in-person in Great Neck, NY. “He told me I’d learn everything about the business—sourcing, product, design, sales, marketing, financing…all of it. I realized that I could learn a lot more than just being a sales guy. I was sold.”

And Parsley did learn the shoe business inside and out, as the Taricas promised.

What’s more, he adored his employers. “Larry and Jim are two of the most wonderful people you’ll ever meet,” he says. “They’re like family.” In fact, the only reason Parsley left—in 2007—was because the Taricas wanted him to relocate closer to their Long Island headquarters. A born Southerner, Parsley refused to move his family from their home in Charlotte, NC. “It wasn’t about money,” he says. “I simply didn’t want to move.”

His next career move felt like a case of déjà vu all over again. Out of the blue, Mark Fisher called Parsley with an enticing offer to join his start-up team.

Parsley cut right to the chase. A move to the Greenwich, CT, area would be a non-starter. Fortunately, “Mark didn’t care where I lived,” Parsley says, noting that he was the only non-Nine West veteran on the team. Over the next decade, Parsley helped introduce an array of new brands as the operation grew into a multi-branded conglomerate. “It was a great experience,” he says. “I learned from another one of the industry’s best, who learned from the best in his father and Vince Camuto.”

Having built such a solid foundation in all facets of the business, it was only a matter of time before Parsley would be entrusted with running a company. That opportunity came this summer when he was promoted from president to CEO of Earth Shoes, a family-owned business launched more than 50 years ago by another industry legend, the late Michele Meynard. Parsley sees this as his dream job—one he believes he’s been preparing for all along. Call it shoe destiny. “I’ve been very fortunate throughout my career to have worked with some of the best people and brands in the industry,” he says. “I couldn’t have scripted it any better, and now I’m putting a team together that I believe represents some of the best in product and sales to help grow a company with enormous potential. I’m the luckiest guy in the world to have this opportunity.” —G.D.

Details to come! twoten.org/gala

Q&A

while Earth Origins has a much broader distribution. Kalso is a premium brand (SRP: $200-plus) aimed specifically at consumers who seek the negative heel construction. Most importantly, they all look distinct now. There’s also a white space in women’s at the $100-$130 range that we’re targeting with a Fall ’22 capsule collection within Earth Origins. We’re calling it Made on Earth. It’ll be a sustainable-driven collection that I believe has the potential to turn into something big. I love it so far. These are the kinds of opportunities that we have to look at in this business going forward.

conversation so we can start building the brand.

Like the repositioning of Earth into a lifestyle brand?

Yes. As part of that overall effort, we’re in the process of designing a new collection under the Earth name that will serve as a brand halo. We’ve been working on the collection for about a year and a half now. The lead designer worked previously for Nike and Puma. When you see these shoes, they’ll blow your mind. The renderings are incredible!

What are some other seeds being planted?

We’re always looking to expand into new categories. For instance, we’re introducing a new Trail category under Earth Origins for Spring ’22. As everyone well knows, the pandemic has led to a lot of consumers hitting the trails to exercise safely. We don’t see that trend slowing down any time soon.

We also think trail is a perfect fit with our brand name. However, this isn’t the same crossover approach of a men’s style so commonly found in this category.

The color palette and specs are aimed at what women want. It’s a trail shoe that serves a purpose and features partially recycled uppers and outsoles, but the shoes are really cute. We’ve gotten a good initial reaction—we opened Sun & Ski at the recent Outdoor Retailer show.

For example?

Think of it this way: When you see concept cars at a show and you immediately think you’d drive that car today. Well, these shoes (a runner, a casual and a slide style) look as original and cool as those concept cars. They’re new, innovative and different. So many shoes in this industry are just not original looking.

These are. They’ll be manufactured in Portugal and priced $200-plus. It’ll be a very focused distribution to start, where we may partner with one key retailer in addition to drops on our site to get started. It’ll be a go-to-market strategy backed by an MVP website to get the consumer engaged into the

Who is this Earth target customer?

First off, they’re unisex styles. We broke the brand down into three buckets within the Gen Z and young Millennial demographics. Specifically, we’re targeting the professional, the yogi and the creative. They all look at things a little differently, and we’ve identified what each of those customers represent. That’s part of our go-to-market strategy as we plant the seeds to launch this collection.

How are you getting the word out about the Trail collection?

To help get Trail off the launch pad, we’re planning a cross promotion with a subscription box company for dog owners that has 1 million subscribers. We’re going to create an Earth Origins Trail shoe chewy toy as a promotional >37

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S P E C I A L R E P O RT

Great Expectations During an unprecedented labor shortage, retailers must find innovative ways to attain and retain employees that go above and beyond just offering better pay. By Michele Silver

THE UNITED STATES has weathered a number of “great” historical events. The Great Fire of Chicago (1871), the Great Earthquake in San Francisco (1906), the Great Depression (1929-’32) and, of more recent times, the Great Recession (2007’09). The country is now in the throes of two more: The Great Resignation and the Great Realization, a one-two psychological, Covid-connected phenomenon causing millions of people to leave the work force entirely or look for greener pastures, be it in the form of better pay, benefits, perks, location, flexibility, etc. In short, they have greater expectations when it comes to employment.

According to the U.S. Department of Labor, during April, May and June 2021, a total of 11.5 million workers quit their jobs. Voluntary unemployment is happening across all industries, especially retail and restaurants, and there are myriad reasons for it. “The pandemic led to a mass reassessment of priorities on the part of workers,” says Carol Spieckerman, president of Spieckerman Retail, a consulting company. “As businesses shut or slowed down, workers took time to reevaluate.” Many employees realized they saved endless hours of commute time, were able to spend quality time with their families and perform their work responsibilities on a more flexible schedule.

“Unemployment benefits and government-issued benefits aren’t causing labor shortages so much as enabling new thinking about risk, benefit and reward,” Spieckerman says.

CEO Adam Beck and COO Julia Gomez of Beck’s Shoes, a California-based chain of 15 stores, saw this firsthand. “The world stopped for a few months, and that gave people a moment to pause and take stake of their life and legacy,” Adam Beck says. “People have started to look far more at the satisfaction or gratification that comes out of their

work life.” Beck adds, “Life is just too short to be miserable doing something you don’t either get fulfilment or a huge paycheck from.”

If these macro trends aren’t hard enough on retailers trying to find and retain talent, a recent study by Accenture noted a growing pressure from consumers that retailers should treat their employees better. The study found that 49 percent of 120 retail executives surveyed feel increased pressure to provide career growth opportunities for their employees, and 51 percent feel pressure to offer permanent roles to holiday season temp hires. Consumers, in a sense, have store clerks’ backs, and many might prefer to shop in stores that treat their staff well.

Mark Jubelirer, president of Reyers in Niles, OH, also blames the government, in part, for the increased difficulty in finding good help. Namely, the extended unemployment benefits have discouraged people from working. “They got paid by the government not to work,” he says. “This, plus the fact that Americans were enjoying their freedom summer was the main drivers of why jobs have gone unfilled.” Jubelirer expects, however, job hunting will pick up leading into this winter.

Gary Weiner, owner of Saxon Shoes in Richmond, VA, says it remains “hard to get applicants,” which isn’t primarily due to a fear of catching the virus working in a store setting. He says Saxon Shoes must simply do more to compete for good talent.

Aspects like flexible schedules, training, room for advance and a friendly environment are key, because “we cannot match many on wages, signing bonuses, etc.,” he says.

PERKS OF BEING A STORE CLERK National chains have been upping their game big-time to woo candidates and retain staff. For example, Walmart, the biggest employer in the world, announced earlier this year that it would cover college costs for its 1.4 million U.S. employees.

Amazon also introduced a pay for college policy this

18 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

year for its 750,000 hourly U.S. employees, while Target is doing the same for its full and part-time employees at 40 designated institutions. Target is also paying employees an extra $2 an hour for peak days during this holiday season as an added appreciation and retention strategy for its workforce.

The discount chain also cut down on the amount of seasonal holiday hires, instead offering current store employees 5 million more hours, resulting in more than $75 million more in pay.

Amid the Great Resignation/Realization, offering a mere employee discount surely won’t cut it. Shoe Carnival, for example, offers full-time workers paid time off for vacation and sick days; an employee assistance program; and medical, dental and vision benefits. DSW’s healthcare benefits are similar, but the chain offers an even more inclusive program that specifically covers the transgender community as well as familyfriendly support such as fertility benefits and paid parental leave.

For those (smaller) retailers who find it difficult offering such enticing employment benefits packages, Bob Phibbs, CEO of the Retail Doctor in New York, says there are still ways to compete.

“Independents can teach employees how to be an entrepreneur, buying and selling skills, and how to leverage social media,” he says. Still, he notes, better pay is a starting point in today’s uber-competitive climate of attracting qualified candidates. “You’ll have to poach the good ones from other stores and pay more than you ever have,” Phibbs says.

In addition to training, room for advancement and treating staffers as family members are other ways to compete beyond better wages. Such is the employment philosophy at Beck’s Shoes, where management is continually on the search for ways to recognize employees and bring them further into the company fold. “The human connection that we strive daily to create with our team is invaluable,” Beck says. “We want them to be a part of something bigger than their one store or department, and know

S P E C I A L R E P O RT

that we care about them and their circumstances.

Our environment and flexibility have really been what has kept people with us.”

And just because a large chain can offer a tempting incentives package doesn’t necessarily mean employees will stick around long enough to partake fully in those benefits. A desperate need to fill positions coupled with a failure to train properly often leads to disappointment for both the employer and employee. Think high turnover, for starters.

For example, Jubelirer says a department store at the Eastwood Mall, where Reyers recently moved to, is in the process of hiring more than 200 employees for the holidays. Sstarting wages are at an attractive $14 per hour plus an additional $3 per hour through Christmas. But, Jubelirer believes, the jury remains out on whether this approach will work, as the new hires will have to perform to higher metrics. In addition, the job may not be all what it’s cracked up to be. “The department store schedules salespeople according to algorithms that predict when the store will be busy, which means that the staff works on floating, bi-weekly schedules,” he says. “They also demand that every salesperson act as their own cashier in closing the sale.” As such, Jubelirer predicts that

by November, a “whole slew of those would-be

department store employees will come to Reyers looking for jobs.”

Loyalty can also go a long way to retaining employees. Peter Hanig, co-owner of Hanig’s Footwear in Chicago, says that in addition to a “decent” salary and good benefits, including a matching 401K plan, he offers “tremendous” loyalty to his employees—even to those who may be well past retirement age. In fact, Hanig cites one employee, now 78, who has worked at Hanig’s for decades. “The customers love him, and I love him,” he says. “As long as he is willing and able to come in work for us, he’s more than welcome.”

A safe and welcoming environment can be another employee incentive. Flexible schedules are another. So is just being consistent. “Aside from the Covid protocols and an increased starting wage level, we haven’t changed a thing regarding staffing, which is why most of our staff has been here for decades and generations,” Jubelirer says.

“A job at Reyers offers fair pay and good benefits, as well as stability.” Now add in a dose of daily fun and genuine respect, and he says one might just unlock the secret to loyal, long-term employees—even with competitors dangling offers of free college tuition. “Personal job satisfaction may rank higher than anything else,” Jubelirer says.

EMPLOYEES WANTED Now where to find and vet potential employees?

Phibbs says a good place to start is to canvas the local neighborhood and find people who look you in the eye—a good indication that the individual is personable and will connect with customers. “You can train people to sell, but they have to be trainable,” he says. Phibbs also recommends advertising on social media and targeting competitors with a line such as, “Tired of working for X company?

Come check us out.” Another new hire marketing idea: create a postcard with a QR code that can be passed out at events, in-store and to anyone who can help you build a winning team. A little cash incentive never hurts, either. Beck’s Shoes gives $20 gas cards to interviewees who show up and a $1,000 hiring bonus if the candidate gets through its 60 hours of training.

Afflink, a leader in supply chain and strategic procurement services, recently posted “tips, tricks and suggestions” on finding the right candidate.

They include: Don’t hire warm bodies (they usually never pan out). Begin with a third-party screen (often it’s best not to have the decision-maker on the first call). Interview several people for the position (less is not more). Do due diligence (read their social media posts and conduct a background check). Take final candidates to lunch (watch how they treat the waitstaff, because that’s probably how they’ll treat customers). Lastly, have an employee in a similar role interview the candidate (they usually know instantly if the candidate has what it takes).

As for retaining good employees, most experts agree that money—as in the ability to earn more of it—is the top draw. A sales contest and/or a bonus plan can both motivate and reward employees. Beck’s Shoes, for example, gives away hundreds of dollars a day for “meaningful” accomplishments. Beck says that based on the ROI of this incentive program, the goal is to give away more money each day. Additionally, team members who remained loyal to the chain during the pandemic received raises.

Whether the pandemic has brought on a paradigm shift that puts employees in the driver’s seat for the foreseeable future remains to be seen. In the meantime, though, the Great Resignation/Realization means employers have to treat workers better across the board. It’s not just about money. If the past year-anda-half has shown employers anything, money isn’t everything. Workers are seeking a better work-life balance, more purpose in what they do and want to work for companies with a strong social conscious.

This is precisely the vibe Beck’s Shoes aims to create. “We very much treat each of our team as one of our family,” Beck says. “We want them to feel supported and know that we care about them and their circumstances.” •

2021 october/november • footwearplusmagazine.com 19

A N OT E T O M Y Y OU N G E R S E L F

I MUST BE DREAMING Fa b r i z i o G a m b e r i n i , g l o b a l c h i e f b r a n d o ff i c e r & p r e s i d e n t o f V i b r a m C o r p o r a t i o n , l o o k s b a c k o n a l i f e fi l l e d w i t h a d v e n t u r e .

having a ton of fun (fútbol is life!) during that time.

Then, in 2008, it’s time for your next big adventure: making the leap to the top of the corporate ladder as CEO of Marcolin USA. Over the When I look at this picture, I see a young and, maybe a little scared, boy. next eight years, you oversee record growth for the innovative eyewear But it touches my heart to know that you’re about to embark on an company, introducing successful collections from an array of the world’s amazing and successful life journey. One that begins in Bologna, leading brands, including Tom Ford, Balenciaga, Emilio Pucci, Guess, Italy, where you hail from a family with few resources and reside in Zegna, Mont Blanc, Kenneth Cole and Skechers. You also supervise the a city where “moving” usually means traveling from the post office to acquisition of a second company working with the grocery store. But, rest assured, great private equity. It’s here that you look to two adventures await after you graduate the more childhood heroes, Captain Kirk and University of Bologna. You’ll soon travel the Ed Straker, for management inspiration. world and live in some of the grandest cities— Notably, it’s the strong teamwork bonds Kirk San Francisco, Boston and New York, to name develops with his key lieutenants, Dr. Spock a few—working for leading corporations, and Dr. McCoy, as the Starship Enterprise such as Hewlett-Packard, Nike, Marcolin boldly goes where no man has gone before. and, since 2018, Vibram Corporation.

And it’s the strategic way Straker, as SHADO’s Credit your strong inner drive and a desire supreme commander, protects earth from to emulate your heroes, both real and fictional, sinister aliens—all while sporting nifty vests! for bringing out that adventurous spirit and (You will sport your share of those, too!) ability to succeed. Like James Bond, a charBy late 2017, your love of the shoe industry acter who exudes that elusive, inner drive calls you back—first for a brief stint as CEO to accomplish the mission impossible every of Geox North America, followed by jointime—all while traveling to exotic locals to ing Vibram Corporation a year later, where ensure On Her Majesty’s Secret Service keeps you are currently leading all facets of the one step ahead of the world’s most diabolical brand, only this time on a global scale. You villains. Bond’s daring dedication inspires Boy wonder: A young Fabrizio Gamberini oversee wholesale, DTC, marketing, sales… you to take on challenges as you climb the with a full and exciting life ahead of him. the works. It’s your dream job! You get to corporate ladder—the first rung, in 1995, as use all the experience you’ve gained over the course of your 30-year a sales development manager for Hewett-Packard in Boise, ID. Despite career, working for an Italian-owned company, while living in the initially fearing if you’re worthy to work for one of the world’s top tech adopted country you adore. What’s not to love? companies, believe in yourself. You’ve done the work and preparation.

Now back to the photo of this charming young boy. Those innocent Just show them who you are! freckles hide your steely determination to always be learning. It’s a drive And you do! Over the course of the next decade, you climb to the that will serve you well throughout your life. You can always get wiser, position of Commercial Director for HP’s Design-Jet product line, and you can learn from your mistakes. Gathering knowledge builds based in San Diego. It’s where you’ll get married and your daughter confidence, one learned lesson at a time. It’s why you always embrace is born! Speaking of that wonderful city, you made the right choice new challenges. In fact, it’s what makes you happy. moving to America—even though all your friends warned that you Before I let you go, the most important advice I can bestow upon you shouldn’t. You’ll find it to be a very good life, where you’ll make loads is: trust your gut. Don’t think too much. Don’t spend nights reviewing of great friends while keeping your roots in Italy. moves and countermoves. Don’t worry so much. If something isn’t workYour next career adventure marks your first step into the footwear ing out, it’s easier than you think to get out and start again. Just continue industry, first as DTC General Manager for Nike Italy and then movto pursue your dreams, even if sometimes life gives you lemons. Like the ing to the company’s HQ in Beaverton, OR, to serve as DTC General time you move to San Francisco during your HP days, accepting a job to Manager of its Retail Americas region. There, you help develop many work for a friend, who then resigns two months later! Still, you have the in-line, factory stores and shop-in-shop concepts. You pick the locabest time living there—and the best oysters! Often, such bumps in the tions, design the stores, oversee visual merchandising and serve as road of life lead to grander adventures! Enjoy the ride! leader of a large team. You introduce many new stores over these two years, most of which achieve double-digit growth during your tenure.

Take care, Then you are promoted to Nike’s General Manager Americas Football Fabrizio (soccer) division, where you again lead growth in the category while Dear Fabrizio,

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

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November 3 & 4, 2021 • Tucson, Arizona The registration deadline for 2021 has already passed. This acknowledgement is in appreciation of the brands exhibiting at our premier education event of the year for NSRA members.

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Twisted X.

From left: Koolaburra by Ugg; Taos.

22

OFFICE

S HO ES

R E DE F I N E D

From left: Birkenstock; Spring Step.

FO R T H E

NEW

N O RM A L From top: Rieker; Quoddy.

PHOTOGRAPHY

BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

23

Modzori reversible clog with faux fur lining and stud detail.

25

26

Kalso denim clog with signature negative heel construction inspired by the mountain yoga pose. Opposite: Suede stacked-heel mules with adjustable buckle

by Rag & Co. 27

28

Taos wool clog with faux fur lining and cork footbed, platform EVA clog with wool upper

by Fly London.

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Earth Origins convertible mules; rubber garden clogs by Joules. Opposite: Birkenstock suede clogs with cork footbed.

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31 31

Alegria leather patchwork clogs with slip-resistant faux wood outsoles.

Opposite, clockwise from top: Gabor leather clog with rivet detailing; Rieker leather Mary Jane slip-on with Antistress insole; tooled leather clog by Bella-Vita.

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33

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Skechers clogs feature Arch Fit Insoles for podiatrist-certified comfort and support.

Opposite: Asportuguesas slip-on with boiled wool upper and cork and latex outsole; suede platform clogs by Chinese Laundry.

Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; models: Rebecca Hanobik/Fenton Model Mgmt.; Linnea Turner/Supreme Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/Ray Brown Pro; photography assistant: Tara Campbell.

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TA N I S E H I L L • G LO RY G O L D

36 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

Think!

L’Artiste

T HERE ’ S S O MET H I NG A B O U T… Mary Janes. The iconic school girl silhouette scores high marks.

frequency in requests,” she adds.

Hill’s goal going forward: to continue to develop deep connections with customers and gain broader distribution. Meanwhile, she is living out her childhood dream.

“There’s a void in the market for a brand that resonates with a broad range of diverse women like myself and my peers,” she says.

“A brand that offers versatile, comfortable, timeless and seasonless styles.”

Who is the Glory Gold woman? She’s a professional from all walks of life, classically styled in American sportswear or evening wear. She seeks footwear that feels good in timeless silhouettes with unique designs to add elegant flair to her outfit.

Are high heels part of the new normal?

Variety makes fashion fun. If the new normal takes away variety, then there will be no fun. So while women may be wearing flats more of late, heels are a classic, feminine alternative that will come back.

Has the pandemic impacted your approach to design? I’ve become more mindful of

the casual/loungewear mood and how to infuse that into classic looks. That said, my designs are always created with versatility to dress up or down, so there hasn’t been a huge shift in my overall approach.

Who are some designers you admire?

Sergio Rossi was influential when I first developed my interest in designing shoes. I admired his fun, vivid style. His designs always displayed creativity and individuality. I admire the effort it takes to be different, which I aim to do in all of my designs.

What was the best design advice you ever received? To find art in everyday objects.

Use your imagination to turn the world around you into your canvas of creation.

What do you love most about designing shoes? I love how my designs have a positive impact on the way my customers feel about themselves. I’m honored to know that my efforts make women feel confident and empowered. It’s a privilege to create designs women love.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

Naot

TANISE HILL DREAMED of becoming a shoe designer as a kid. But in order to achieve that dream she knew it had to begin with a solid foundation. Thus, her earning degrees in fashion and footwear design from the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising followed by years of honing her skills at Restricted Shoes—a brand known for its trend-setting fashions. It’s there that Hill developed her design intuition, a gut instinct on what the key materials, colors and silhouettes will be for a season.

“I’ve grown to sense what will work and what won’t, especially when working with the factories,” Hill says. “I know the best fit, what’s comfortable, what looks good and what women want.”

Hill long held another dream: her own label, which came true with the launch of Glory Gold in 2013. The name harks back to her days of dreaming to be a designer. “Glory Gold promotes positivity for women to be inspired and confident,” she says. “Give all of yourself to your purpose and, despite any obstacles, keep the faith, persevere and you’ll achieve your goals. Give all the glory and you’ll achieve the gold.”

That positivity theme translates into an overall design aesthetic that, Hill describes, as “elegant, distinct lines and intentional patterns that flatter the foot.” Think versatile styles “suitable from the boardroom to the red carpet,” she says. An example is the Deluxe high heel mule pump (SRP: $269) that features an instep strap.

“It’s my modernized spin on the slingback, but the strap holds your ankle in the front,” Hill explains. “The sleek, elegant design can be worn at work and effortlessly paired with evening attire.” She adds, “I like to create unique patterns, new seams and functional closures to make something original—like the use of curved buckles and our signature royal blue insole.”

That story continues for Spring/Summer ’22 with a mixed media minimalism themed sandals collection. “It’s all about letting the texture shine,” Hill says. “I like to mix materials in a simplistic yet beautiful ways, like a sharply designed modern home.” Key colors span shades of red, orange and blue with plenty of woven textures, block heels and sculptured wedges.

Ever the entrepreneur, Hill recently opened a flagship in the Oak Park Mall near her base in Overland Park, KS. In addition to expanding Glory Gold’s following, the store serves as a design laboratory. “Women are specific about their footwear based on the occasion, and I’m learning exactly what they’re looking for each of these occasions,” Hill says, adding that the store presents custom design opportunities as well as serves an events space. “I’m also gaining knowledge about sizing and noticing the

Q&A continued from page 16 add-in to the box. Their subscribers—75 percent of whom are women—are right in our demographic wheelhouse. We also want to tie it into our one tree planted with every pair sold campaign and have it timed around Earth Day. We’ll also send an email to our customers and engage them possibly with a giveaway for a box subscription. So, ideally, our customers will subscribe and their customers will buy shoes. It’s a win-win. Bigger picture: We need to think outside the box to expand our business where we have opportunities to do so and that make sense. To that end, we have to look at new categories and customers to build our business.

We’re confident we can achieve that.

It’s hard enough to predict what a consumer might want 90 days in advance.

How do you have any idea if the lead time is more than double?

You don’t know. You have to take a lot of risks. You have to gamble. The only thing going for everyone right now is that there’s just not a lot of inventory available, so retailers have to buy something. Fortunately for us, we have a long history and we have a very good idea what our consumer wants and is likely to buy from us. We’re a commodity-based business. We’re about comfort, fit and value. So it’s probably a little easier for us than for some other brands to predict what will sell.

“OUR DISTRIBUTION

CENTER IN SOUTH HAVEN, MS, IS ABOUT 200,000

Why is Tamaris a good fit for the portfolio?

First of all, it’s one of the biggest shoe brands in Europe. They sell about 30 million pairs annually in that market.

You see its presence on pretty much any street corner. It’s also a step above of what we do in the comfort space and it has a little more of a fashion twist to it. So, we see Tamaris as a great opportunity to build business in some better distribution channels where we can’t take Earth Origins. And Tamaris is excited about the partnership because they tried to enter the U.S. market about five years ago but struggled to gain traction. Like a lot of Euro comfort brands that have tried to break into this market and failed, you have to have boots on the ground.

We have all the infrastructure already in place. Our distribution center in South Haven, MS, is about 200,000 square feet. It’s not third-party run. We can A sport sandal from drop-ship roughly 12,000 pairs a day.

Earth Origins’ new That’s a lot. Another great thing about Trail collection for the Tamaris deal: We don’t have to do Spring ’22. any development. We just merchandise the collection on what we think is best for the U.S. So, all in all, Tamaris is very excited about what we bring to the table and the opportunity it brings for us both. We are too.

SQUARE FEET. IT’S NOT THIRD-PARTY RUN. WE

CAN DROP-SHIP ROUGHLY 12,000 PAIRS A DAY. THAT’S A LOT .”

How has the reaction been to Tamaris’ fall collection from retailers?

Phenomenal. Although, we were late, not surprisingly, delivering shoes. Nordstrom was our first customer. They’ve done well. We just need more inventory. I’m sick of saying that, but it’s the truth.

Do you see supply chain problems improving anytime soon?

We thought last spring that this fall would be much better. But it’s gotten worse, unfortunately. I think next spring will still be difficult. I keep asking our COO (Al Gervais), who I worked with at Mark Fisher for years, how do we hedge our bets pricing shoes and predicting deliveries with lead times so much further out than normal? Before, you could turn something around in 90 days. That’s not even remotely possible now. So, to answer your question, I think it will get a little better, but it won’t be until Fall ’22 that we see a light at the end of the tunnel. Then again, who really knows? It’s so unpredictable right now.

How much is Earth Shoes still producing in China?

We still have a lot of development there.

You just can’t just walk away from it that easily and ramp up production elsewhere.

That said, we’re sourcing in Cambodia, Vietnam and Myanmar, although the latter was a disaster with the coup. We had 250,000 pairs sitting in trucks, but they never made it onto a boat because the government seized everything. Every wholesaler will tell you similar horror stories. I mean, look at Nike. Because of Vietnam’s issues, Nike won’t be able to make 160 million pairs. And that drives up prices for everyone because Nike will take over other factories trying to make up for the shortfall as much as possible.

It’s just gotten out of control and every vendor is frustrated.

Care to share an example of frustration?

I heard about one vendor that had an Aug. 1 delivery date for a national chain.

The date has already been pushed out a few times, and now the shipment isn’t expected until November. Normally that retailer would have just cancelled the order. But now they initially asked for a 20 percent discount followed by 15 percent and 10 percent. They were rebuffed each time until they said they’ll take the shoes. The have little choice, because another retailer will snap them up at that initial price. Worse, if they cancelled the order, they may have empty shelves. Everyone is struggling to find inventory. That’s why the industry is so upside down right now. And that’s why everyone is looking at other countries to source. For example, we recently took a couple of shoes to Mexico where the speed to market plus NAFTA outweighs the higher factory costs, which is a little more expensive than Asian countries. The lower logistics costs and duties alone will offset whatever those factory increases are. If that works, that could be a great opportunity for us. We’re also looking at going back to Brazil.

What is the main goal for the rest of this year?

Real simple: deliver shoes and fulfill every order that we possibly can. Everyone is feeling that pinch now. A year ago, some discount majors had the pick of the litter, buying tons of inventory at ridiculous prices. Now the tables have turned.

They can’t get inventory, and there are no close-outs, which means they’ve got to make up shoes. We can do that for them, but we’re not going to compromise

U P C L O S E AT H L E T I C

Ollie Gray Debuts Maternity Sneaker A style that meets the changing needs of pregnant and postpartum women.

IT’S WELL-DOCUMENTED that feet can swell over the course of a day. But that pales in comparison to the size fluctuations bought on by pregnancy and postpartum. Thus, the need for a shoe that can flex, mold and accommodate such changes with proper comfort and support—so says Kate and Bryce Rech, cofounders of maternity wear maker Ollie Gray. But as novices to the shoe biz, the husband-and-wife team brought in the services of renowned sneaker designer, Jeff Henderson (Nike cred), and his New York-based creative agency AndThem, to turn their design vision into reality.

“We always dreamed of a maternity shoe, but we started small with Jeff ’s team by bringing them in on some print and art design projects for other products,” Kate Rech says. “With two-plus years of work completed, we finally pitched the idea of a maternity footwear line and, lucky for us, he loved it and jumped all in.”

Dubbed the OG, the sneaker (SRP: $135 and available in whole and half sizes 6-11) is an all-purpose design that Rech says focuses on genuine comfort features that she believes so many sneakers today fail to address. “There’s such a high focus on the look that comfort becomes an afterthought—cue Gucci, Saint Laurent and LV,” she says. In contrast, the OG is all about comfort, starting with the outsole.

Think: not squishy. “Moms need support for the changes their bodies are going through during and after pregnancy, and the foot doesn’t react well to an overly cushioned sole,” she explains. “It wants a strong, supportive sole, and Vibram is one of the most trusted sole manufacturers in the world.”

Rech says the OG sole provides extra support, comfort and stability throughout the foot and arch as the body changes and weight fluctuates during pregnancy and postpartum.

Next up: a knit upper designed to adapt and mold to changing foot sizes. “Our focus group participants all mentioned one common complaint, aside from their feet hurting: that they couldn’t fit into many of their shoes due to weight gain and swollen feet,” Rech says. “So we designed an upper with stretch and give that can expand and contract

Kate Rech, cofounder, Ollie Gray, makers of the OG maternity sneaker

to mirror the changes the foot goes through during this time.” In addition, an elastic lateral and medial lacing system provides better flexibility, support and comfort, while the tightening pull tab is longer for easier reach and enables wearers to slip the

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

shoes on and off with ease. Rech adds that the knit material is also lightweight and breathable, which suits all-day wear from the home to the doctor’s office to the gym and errands in between.

Last but not least, Rech says great attention has been paid to style. “We created a sneaker that could be worn with leggings, a maxi dress or a favorite pair of mom jeans,” she says, noting that the three colorways (rose, cream and black) are designed to blend into wardrobes seamlessly. “This is not a shoe only for pregnant women; the OG is a sneaker for Moms, period,” Rech adds, again paying homage to the design credibility of Henderson. “Jeff has designed shoes for Nike, Under Armour, Converse, Allbirds, KOIO and Everlane. I’m six years removed from having a baby and I am wearing my OG sneakers every day!”

Beyond all these reasons, Rech believes the time has come for a maternity-specific sneaker.

“Moms deserve better,” she says, adding that with more than five years of customer feedback and consumer insight, Ollie Gray has a proven track record on introducing what is missing in this space. “We could have slow churned and focused on common product line extensions like tank tops, camis and sleep bras, but that doesn’t fit into our brand DNA,” Rech says. “We want to change the way consumers view maternity, which is not to sell the same drab, nonconforming pieces our competitors seem to focus on.”

On the note, Rech says look for new shoe styles soon. “We have two more styles currently in design, as well as colorway extensions for the OG,” she says.

“Our design team would kill us if we spilled the beans, but we recognize the working mom needs options, and who doesn’t love an around the house shoe?” Rech believes that the market demand is there for a maternity shoe category, noting the approximately four million new moms in the U.S. annually. “We’ve had pregnant moms test the OG and the feedback has given us the confidence to go all in on footwear,” she says. “We’re high on the idea of maternity footwear being a staple category.” —Greg Dutter

Q&A our product just to lower the price. The reason being: If a customer were to buy an inferior shoe and have a bad experience, she’ll likely never buy our brand again. But if she has a positive experience, then I can keep her no matter where she shops. So those retailers have to take a hard look at their business model—just like everybody else. It likely means price increases. And I believe it’s high time they do. I’ve been doing this for a long time and retail prices for shoes have never really gone up, but manufacturing cost have risen quite a bit. So, this disruption is actually giving the industry an opportunity to correct itself. We have to elevate prices. We can’t continue to sell $39, $49, and $59 shoes. It’s just not profitable. If the price of a 40-foot container before Covid was $3,000 on average and now it’s as high as $22,000, you can’t make a profit without raising prices. You just can’t absorb those kinds of extreme logistics cost increases, not to mention the 8 percent duties on leather goods made in China, plus another 7.5 percent tariff.

Any resistance to Earth Shoes’ price increases?

No. And that’s the point I’ve been making to our wholesale customers: Our consumers are willing to pay more for the shoes than what you’re charging.

This is an opportunity for you to take advantage of this. Our customer is willing to pay $80 for that shoe, rather than going to Nordstrom Rack and maybe buying it for $59.99.

They don’t need to match that.

That’s why I think we have to keep pushing our retails up. We’ve also been running less sales than ever before on our ecommerce site, and our business has remained very strong. Our pricing for Earth Origins has really elevated. We have a lot of shoes at the $90$100 range, which is where it should be for that type of footwear.

And our Earth Elements is in the $150 to$180.

How has the shift to running fewer sales gone?

Very well. When I got here, the company was heavily promoting, which only got worse once the Men’s casual kicks are essential to pandemic hit because everybody Earth Elements’ spring collection. freaked out thinking that they had too much inventory. But last summer I turned that sales switch off. I went back to a regular priced model and increased retails where they needed to be. We only had one sale (Memorial Day) this spring. What’s more, every time we had the opportunity to put something on sale, we substituted it with an offer of free shipping, and our business exploded!

We also shifted our email marketing approach. Instead of talking about price, price, price, we now talk about fashion and the product. It’s working really well—our emails now represent 35 percent of our online revenue.

So, less sales have meant more sales overall?

Yes. Remember when Nordstrom only had two sales a year? As a consumer, you were conditioned that if you saw something you liked, you’d better buy it because it may not be there by the time one of those sales came around.

That’s how we need to be thinking about our business. Daily emails touting sales aren’t really effective. In contrast, I love the emails Todd Snyder sends.

I instructed our team to mimic their frequency and content. So, for example, we’ll talk about a new boot’s features and benefits and fashion in general. We

don’t just talk price. Since we started doing that, customers have been coming more to our website and buying more shoes. The ROI is amazing. Along those lines, before I got here, the company was spending money on ecommerce like a drunken sailor. So last summer I hired a consultant to conduct an audit of what we were doing right and wrong. Basically, the audit revealed that if we did the opposite of what we had been doing, we would be ok. So, we’ve flipped the script and it’s made a big difference in our ecommerce business.

Props to Todd Snyder, then.

Yes! His messaging is spot-on. His customer service is excellent, as well. That’s another thing we’ve done: We built a new customer service team and moved it to Memphis, TN, near our distribution center. I’ve set the standard really high. In fact, I don’t even call it customer service anymore. It’s customer loyalty, because it’s important that when a customer reaches out to us, whether it’s by email or phone, that it’s one touch. We’ll solve the problem, right then and there. If a shoe doesn’t fit right and they want to return it, let’s speak directly with that customer about what can we do to make it right for them. Those are the little things that will continue to pay dividends as we grow this business.

What do you love most about your job?

I love that every day is a new adventure. It’s just exciting to be in this position, and that I get to make decisions in all facets of the business to keep us moving forward. It keeps me on my toes. That’s the fun part of this job: creating opportunities. I always say, just make a decision. I don’t care if you make the wrong one, because that’s better than not making any decision. Just don’t make the wrong one twice. The definition of insanity is to keep doing the same thing and expecting a different result. We just have to keep thinking outside the box. •

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Prints Charming

Garden Club 40 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2021

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From top: Sanita, Joules, Western Chief.

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