Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2011 • February by Wainscot Media

THE SOURCE FOR RETAILERS • FEBRUARY 2011 • $10.00

TURNING HEADS

A FA LL PREV IEW WORTH PREENING A BOU T CATCH ON TO VIRAL MARKETING ROCKY BRANDS READY TO RUMBLE FIVE RETAILERS THAT USE GOOD SENSE— LITERALLY DESIGNER FORUM: FROM REFINED TO DECADENT

SOURCING IN ETHIOPIA DISCOVER WHY AN INCREASING NUMBER OF U.S. MANUFACTURERS AND RETAILERS ARE ESTABLISHING NEW SOURCING CONTACTS IN ETHIOPIA: QUALITY FACTORIES DEDICATED TO DELIVERING CONSISTENCY, CRAFTSMANSHIP AND SUPERIOR VALUE.

FOOTSTEPS AT MAGIC

BOOTH # 66625

PLEASE CONTACT FOR APPOINTMENTS Jordan Saliman bonjordy1@yahoo.com 303.808.5655

SECOND FLOOR SOUTH HALL LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER FEBRUARY 13TH - 16TH 2011

Visit Børn Footwear at FN Platform | TASM | WSA and at FFANY | 1441 Broadway, 14th Floor, New York, NY

EarthÂŽ Rebel

Follow the path to wellnessâ&#x20AC;Ś

. s s e n l l e wevated. el Earthies速 Montera

inc.

Earth速 Footwear (earthfootwear.com) and Earthies速 (earthiesusa.com) are trademarks of Meynard Designs, Inc. licensed to Earth, Inc. (Waltham, MA). 781.893.7474. 息 2010 Earth, Inc.

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LEONARD INTERNATIONAL - GIESSWEIN • RUGGED BY MASTERS • TANA ORLY SHOE CORPORATION • PEPPER GATE FOOTWEAR INC • PENNY LOVES KENNY • OSITOS SHOES • DAMIANI’S • Z-COIL • FANTASY SHOE COLLECTIONS Z-COIL PAIN RELIEF FOOTWEAR • PIU DI SERVAS • BONNIBEL • LOEN • THE ORIGINAL MUCK BOOT COMPANY • ZIRCONMANIA • GREAT SHOE CENTER INC TALLULAH BLU • ENVY FOOTWEAR • WEATHERPROOF • LINES OF DENMARK • RESTRICTED • LASONIA CHIC • POCKET TOMS • SPRING STEP PROFESSIONAL INVERSIONES TEXTILES PSG S.A.C. - SUMAQKAY • RASOLLI FOOTWEAR • BRUNO VALENTI • SONALI • ANNA ALMEIDA • PACIFIC SHOE CORP • SANO BY MEPHISTO AUCLAIR & MARTINEAU INC • MISS ME • RENEEZE • PASSARELA • GEE WAWA FOOTWEAR • MACHI FOOTWEAR INC • MUSHROOMS • GO MAX FOOTWEAR WEINBRENNER SHOE CO - THOROGOOD • ANTELOPE DINGO • JANICE • TEROX • KECOM U.S.A TRADING CO • TEROX • LUCITA • LUCKY TOP ECCO USA, INC DAN POST BOOTS • CHIPPEWA BOOT CO • ELEGANT FOOTWEAR INC • LAREDO WESTERN BOOTS • VIDA SHOES INTERNATIONAL • RIEKER SHOE CORP

“For years the WSA Las Vegas show has been a beacon for all brands, all categories, all countries of origin, and all types of retailers.... it has been the only venue where shopping for new and exciting brands in all categories has been available under one roof...”

JIM ISSLER / H.H. BROWN SHOE CO. “I’ve always believed that the shoe industry would be much stronger with one National Show. The new team David Kahan has put together to revitalize the WSA Show is both refreshing and exciting. That’s why the Earth brands have decided to join the new launch of WSA in February.”

GARY CHAMPION / EARTH BRANDS “We look forward to showing our exciting new product at WSA in February.”

JEFFREY CAMPBELL “Auri originally launched at WSA back in 2008. We’re so excited to be back again to debut our all new high technology meets high fashion womens Fall 2011 collection. Looking forward to seeing old friends and presenting all new products to all new customers.”

ORI ROSENBAUM / AURI FOOTWEAR

“As with the dynamic nature of the footwear industry, I feel conﬁdent that the new WSA show will mirror an evolution of a national footwear trade show.”

ROBERT MANGIONE / BIRKI’S “We’re excited about the new team at WSA and the renewed energy to build back this important trade show. Aetrex looks forward to attending!”

LARRY SCHWARTZ / AETREX WORLDWIDE

THE VENETIAN + SANDS . L AS VEGAS FEBRUARY 7.8.9 2011 WSASHOW.COM SALES@ENKSHOWS.COM / 818.379.9400 BUYER@ENKSHOWS.COM / 818.464.2352

Spot On! Like the leopard – and all that it inspires – we’re not changing our spots. The Atlanta Shoe Market is now America’s largest seasonal display of shoe styles. We’re still the most productive, convenient and affordable show.

February 19-21 2011

Cobb Galleria Centre | Renaissance Waverly Hotel atlantashoemarket.com | 706.923.0580 | February 19-21 2011

GEOX SHOES PATENT THE PERFORATED OUTSOLE

THE MEMBRANE

WATER VAPOUR MOLECULES

Children’s Club, Javits Center - New York City – January 23-25 WSA, Sands Convention Center – Las Vegas – February 7-9 Max Children’s Show, Deerﬁeld, IL – February 11-13 Atlanta Shoe Show, Cobb Galleria – February 19-21

FFANY, 29W 34th Street – New York City – February 1-3 Kids Show LA, Ayres Hotel – Manhattan Beach – February 8-9 Platform, Las Vegas Convention Center – February 14-16 Children’s Great Event, Elizabeth, NJ – February 22-24

For appointments, please call your sales rep or e-mail us at customerserviceus@geox.com

PLUS AWARDS : EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN FOR 2010

CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL NOMINEES!

WINNERS ANNOUNCED FEBRUARY 1, 2011 ATHLETIC PERFORMANCE c Brooks c Asics c Reebok c New Balance

RAIN BOOTS

OUTDOOR

c Hunter

c Merrell

GREEN Presented by LITE Leather

c Chooka

c Go-Lite

c Simple

c Tretorn

c Teva

c Timberland

c Aigle

c Sorel

c Patagonia

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE c Nike SB c Adidas c Converse c Vans

MEN’S DRESS c Florsheim by Duckie Brown c Cole Haan c John Varvatos c Harrys of London

MEN’S STREET c Red Wing c Clarks Originals c Camper c Sperry Top-Sider

MEN’S COMFORT c Ecco c Merrell c Clarks c Rockport

WOMEN’S DRESS c Isola c Charles Jourdan c Pour La Victoire c United Nude

WOMEN’S STREET c Steve Madden c Restricted c Bass c Jessica Simpson

WOMEN’S COMFORT c Dansko c Born c Naot c Gentle Souls

CHILDREN’S c Primigi c Skechers c Geox c Ralph Lauren

WELLNESS c MBT c Earth c FitFlop c Aetrex

BOOTS c Frye c Ugg Australia c Hunter c Nine West Vintage

WORK c Wolverine c Rocky c Red Wing c Timberland Pro

PRE-WALKERS c Livie & Luca c Primigi c See Kai Run c Trimfoot

c Reef

ITEM OF THE YEAR c Vibram FiveFingers c Ugg Australia/Jimmy Choo c Native c Hush Puppies 1958

Collection BRAND OF THE YEAR c TOMS c Ugg Australia c Hunter c Dansko c Clarks

COMPANY OF THE YEAR c Skechers c Deckers Outdoor c Brown Shoe c H.H. Brown c Jones Group c Clarks Companies N.A.

18 Flash Fame

Caroline Diaco Publisher

Marketing pros offer their top tips for crafting the perfect viral video campaign. By Audrey Goodson

Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Creative Director

20 Q&A: Rocky Brands

EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Audrey Goodson Meagan Walker Associate Editors Melissa D’Agnese Editorial Intern

Soon-to-be CEO David Sharp shares his strategy for surviving tough times: fewer, better, leaner and meaner. By Greg Dutter

CREATIVE Trevett McCandliss Executive Art Director Phong Q. Nguyen Brad Istnick Lenny Vella Art Directors

26 Trend Spotting After seasons of simplified silhouettes, designers revisit rich colors, luxe textures and utilitarian details. By Angela Velasquez

CONTRIBUTORS Michel Onofrio Style Director Kathy Passero Editor at Large Jamie Wetherbe West Coast Editor

44 Sense & Sensibility Five retailers reveal how they create a scintillating sensory experience for their customers. By Audrey Goodson

ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Advertising Director Rita Polidori O’Brien VP Business Development David Sutula VP Technology Leslie Sutula VP Account Services Laurie Guptill Production Manager

50 Designer Forum The industry’s top designers dish on not-to-miss trends and overall expectations for fall. By Angela Velasquez

12 Contributors 14 Editor’s Note

ADMINISTRATION Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager Julie Gibson Webmaster Theodore Hoffman Special Projects Director

Hokus Pocus crushed velvet flat, spectator by Franco Sarto.

16 This Just In 40 What’s Selling

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 8 West 38th Street, Ste. 201 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation Office 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@9Threads.com

64 Shoe Salon 66 In the Details 68 Athletic 72 Street 74 Comfort 76 Made You Look

On the cover: Earthies platform shoetie. Missoni sweater; Nanette Lapore blouse; vintage dress and hat; Tibetan textiles as sash. Photography by Cleo Sullivan at Ray Brown. Model: Lida Fox at Next.

54 Chamber Music

Old World vintage meets New World style for a symphony of soft, romantic Fall ’11 looks.

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) Vol. 22issue #2 The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by 9Threads, 8 West 38th Street, Suite 201, New York, NY, 10018-0150. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. 9Threads will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2011 by 9Threads. Printed in the United States.

CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO

INSPIRED BOOT STYLE

This season, our boot collections are bigger, more diverse and just as comfortable as ever with exciting new styles for men and women. Versatile must-haves, one-of-a-kind silhouettes and distinctive details all ďŹ nd their place in our Fall 2011 lines. Find your style at FN PLATFORM and ATLANTA SHOE SHOW

contributors i n s i d e t h e c r e at i v e m i n d

CLEO SULLIVAN, PHOTOGRAPHER The third time is most definitely a charm for Sullivan, who shot last month’s fashion story, “Pretty Furry Things,” and “Cut Above” in the August ’10 issue of Footwear Plus. This time around Sullivan lends her talents to our Fall ’11 preview, “Chamber Music” (p. 54). Her incredible eye for detail and ability to capture the mood was the perfect match for the eclectic melange of styling. Sullivan’s award-winning work has also appeared in Vogue, Elle, W, The New York Times, Blackbook, Newsweek, New York Magazine, Conde Nast Traveler and Entertainment Weekly. Other clients include Givenchy, Nordstrom, Sephora, Vera Wang, Judith Leiber, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Chanel, Barneys, Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue.

MICHELE ONOFRIO, FASHION STYLIST A frequent contributor to Footwear Plus, New York-based stylist and new mom Onofrio used her motherly instincts in giving birth to her “boho chic” look featured in “Chamber Music.” Onofrio says the inspiration melds Victorian elements with nomadic and ethnic influences. “If the three were to mate, this is what you’d get,” she says, adding the styling goes well with the season’s Old World vibe. Onofrio’s editorial work has also appeared in Blackbook, Zoo and A4. She has also styled for Rolex, A.B.S., Joan & David, W Hotels, and the footwear brands Born and Yellow Box.

DOROTHY HONG, PHOTOGRAPHER Another Footwear Plus regular, New Yorkbased photographer Hong used her keen fashion eye and budding journalism skills in this month’s This Just In (p. 16) style report: “Men With Hats.” Always more than a snapshot, Hong has the knack to capture that little something extra in all of her photos. Her other clients include Nike, Monocle, The Wall Street Journal and The Guardian.

Autumn/Winter 2011 Collection Visit us at PROJECT: February 14-16, or contact us at 800.365.5505.

sebago.com

editor’s note 7 T H E P O L I T I C S O F FA S H I O N

FLIPPING OUT? ACCORDING TO A scandalous article in the right-leaning New York Post, President Obama was caught flip-flopping. No, this had nothing to do with his decision to keep the Bush-era tax cuts in place for the wealthiest Americans. This particular flip-flopping incident had to do with the Commander in Chief being photographed in public wearing—gasp—flip-flops! Obama was caught wearing the übercasual footwear during his recent winter vacation in Hawaii, arguably the flip-flop capital of the world. A smattering of presidential historians couldn’t recall a time ever before when a U.S. president had been seen in public wearing a pair of thongs. That’s 44 presidents over a span of 234 years, in case you are keeping count, until the flip-flop finally got an in-public presidential seal of approval. Some pundits said the casual statement made Obama “look like a man of the people.” One even went so far as to suggest that the style was apropos in these recessionary times. “His advisors probably like that it’s an informal and inexpensive shoe,” he opined, not surprisingly, in a left-leaning publication. Really? It seems like a stretch to suggest that wearing flip-flops was an effort to subtly convey a message to all Americans that the president feels your pain. Moreover, I find the assumption to be insulting to those Americans who are finding it difficult to even afford a new pair of shoes. I have faith that President Obama has more class and tact than to stoop to such pandering. Rather, I believe Obama’s flip-flop choice is right in step with a macro fashion movement that has been sweeping America for the past two decades or so. Sheepskin boots, wellies, slipon clogs and flip-flops—they are all a part of footwear fashion’s growing Utilitarian party. It’s a platform built on versatility, comfort and practicality, all of which are in step with a casual revolution. Whether you’re a Tea Party member or chaining yourself to a Redwood, utilitarian footwear crosses party lines. These everyday footwear staples “play in Peoria” and are readily endorsed by those residing in deep blue states.

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

Such notable Utilitarian party members include former president George W. Bush, who has been photographed wearing Crocs. In this particular incident, Bush was wearing the brand’s black Cayman clogs after a mountain bike ride—an ideal lightweight, comfortable après sports shoe, if ever there was one. And let’s be real: Bush in Crocs is a far more authentic reflection than when the man with Connecticut blue blood roots sports cowboy boots. On the other end of the political spectrum, Oprah continues to be an advocate of the comfortable attributes of Uggs, and she has converted legions of her viewers to the brand by featuring it regularly on her annual Favorite Things list. Swinging back to the right, Sarah Palin has been filmed wearing wellies (Chookas, to be exact). During an episode of her popular reality TV show about life in Alaska, Palin wore the colorful waterproof boots while lake fishing. And now Palin’s polar opposite—the current leader of the free world—is a member of the same fashion party. Who would have thought that these two would ever be on the same page about anything? But that’s not to say the Utilitarian party doesn’t have its share of detractors. Plenty scoff (they’re members of what I call the Fashionista party) and consider the drawbacks to these styles to be self-evident: They are flat-out ugly and unsophisticated, revealing the underbelly of America’s general lack of fashion sense. Everyone is entitled to his or her own opinion; this is America, after all. I, for one, back President Obama’s most recent flip-flop statement. Would you prefer he replicate an infamous Richard Nixon footwear faux pas instead? Our 37th president was once photographed while walking along a beach wearing socks and wingtips. I don’t know about any of you, but I find that to be more telling about the man’s mindset than Obama’s practical decision to wear comfortable, breathable footwear while vacationing on a tropical island. No need to, er, flip out about this particular issue.

Greg Dutter, Editorial Director

THIS JUST IN

Kevin Richard, 33 Industrial Designer Hometown: Detroit Hat by: Topman, $40. Shoes by: Topman, $120. In putting together this outﬁt, which came ﬁrst—the hat or the boots? The boots, which are standard issue for knocking around the city.

Men With Hats Stylish men on the streets of the Big Apple top off their looks with ’40s-era fedoras and porkpies. By Dorothy Hong

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

How does your hat complement your shoes? I’d say the wool gives it a winter look. Underneath I’m wearing just a plain white T-shirt, so the hat really spruces up the outfit. Which shoes work best with porkpie hats? Any sort of wingtip that’s busted, vintage and well-worn. Why do you think hats are back in style? I’m not sure, because I’ve always worn them. I’m too lazy with my hair, and hats are now accepted indoors and at dinner, so you can rock them and not feel like you have to take them off. Except when I’m with my parents—then I have to take my hat off. What does your head-totoe accessorized outfit say about you? That I’m easygoing with an edge.

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SPECIAL REPORT

Flash Fame

Hoping their products will spread like wildﬁre on the web, footwear companies are going viral with eccentric, eye-catching videos. By Audrey Goodson

YOU’VE PROBABLY SEEN them: Laughing babies. Dirty dancing wedding parties. Antoine Dodson and his infamous interview-turned song. That blender that attempts to shred anything. Pretty much any cat that ever played the piano or rode a Roomba. Seemingly overnight, these videos were lifted from relative obscurity and went on to ubiquitous Internet fame, acquiring millions of YouTube views and thousands of water cooler conversations. Not surprisingly, companies like Nike, Reebok and Skechers were quick see the potential, releasing a slew of cool videos in hopes of going viral. Nowadays, the concept is becoming commonplace, but the secret to success is still a bit of a mystery. “The question is: How do you deﬁne success?” asks Josh Lauer, assistant professor of communication at the University of New Hampshire. “You can get lots of hits, but it’s questionable whether that translates into sales ultimately. The Old Spice campaign is doing a good job at getting a lot of positive attention but whether you have customers shifting to that brand and sticking with it over time is an open question.” However, it’s a question that’s getting somewhat easier to answer, notes Olivier Toubia, an associate professor of business at Columbia Business School, who recently conducted a study with cosmetics company OPI. For the launch of one of the company’s new products, OPI released a coupon in magazines, newspapers and virally online. The redemption rate for the online coupon was 10 times higher than traditional media. Not surprisingly, viral marketing must be having some quantiﬁable success, since companies continue to allocate more of their advertising budget to the arena: According to research by PQ Media, the amount spent on word-of-mouth marketing is expected to reach $3 billion by 2013. Want your store to become an online sensation? Here are some top tips from viral marketing pros:

KNOW YOUR GOAL “The ﬁrst step is to decide the objective. Don’t assume it will just work,” Toubia advises, noting “it’s easy for companies to rush into this without 18 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

thinking it through.” While experts tend to agree that the motivation behind any video should depend on the ultimate objective of each individual company and product, there are two different general approaches: building brand awareness versus advertising a specific product. Each approach has its own benefits and pitfalls, says Toubia. “It’s not a universal recipe. There are so many different ways of doing viral marketing that are relevant for different brands and products.” Companies looking simply to build brand awareness may have the most success with a viral campaign, says Jackie Mayer, director of marketing for Los Angeles-based Feed Company, a marketing agency responsible for creating and promoting some of last year’s most popular viral videos, including ones for Levi’s, Ford and Skechers. “If the company’s goal is to get the word out and get people talking about their video, it works great. Where companies get in to trouble is [creating] a conversation specifically about a certain product. Viral marketing really works well when the company is really looking to start buzz, to get users watching their video.” Companies like T-Mobile—with its recent campaigns featuring sudden crowds of people dancing and singing in London’s airports and train stations—have seen a lot of success with this method, says Toni Smith, managing director for The Viral Factory, a London-based digital marketing and media company whose clients include Google and Microsoft. Known as a “flash mob,” the approach is often a fun, whimsical way to utilize surprise by staging events in the public sphere, but it only works if it’s done well, Smith notes. “If you’re going to do a flash mob viral campaign, ensure that it is immaculately produced and big enough to create a lot of noise, at the time and later online. Also, due to the current popularity of campaigns like this, make it different than those that have been done already to attract attention.” Flash mobs aren’t the only way to generate buzz, of course. Reebok recently garnered quite a bit of attention for the launch of its ZigTech collection by “leaking” a set of viral videos featuring MMA fighter Chuck Liddell, NFL star Chad Ocho- >42

VIDEO MAVENS

BLENDTEC “WILL IT BLEND? What it does: With more than 10 million views on YouTube, Tom Dickson, CEO of Blendtec, shreds an iPad to dust. The video is one of the latest on the company’s YouTube channel showing Dickson blending everything from marbles to rake handles. Why it works: It’s authentic, just like the 2006 videos that shot the company to fame. “It was not planned. We didn’t say, ‘Aha , we’ll do this and be a YouTube sensation,” says Owens.

DC SHOES “GYMKHANA THREE” What it does: DC Shoes co-founder and professional rally car driver Ken Block acquired a huge Internet following for videos showing him maneuvering his Subaru Impreza WRX STI through a custom-built gymkhana course. “Gymkhana Three,” with more than 2 million hits on YouTube, adds the hip hop group The Cool Kids and scantily clad women for a neon-hued music video. Why it works: The ad begins with a humorous and honest disclaimer, targeted at its young demographic: “Warning! The following music video is actually an advertisement.”

R E A D Y

O&A

T O

David Sharp, president and COO of Rocky Brands, on how the streamlined, recession-tested company’s revised approach to shoemaking is right in step with the new business normal. By Greg Dutter

ABOUT FIVE YEARS ago when Rocky Brands decided to double its annual sales volume in one full swoop with the acquisition of EJ Footwear (led by Durango and Georgia Boot brands), it was viewed as a significant undertaking with plenty of risks involved. There was a healthy share of skeptics who viewed the approximately $100-million merger as a lot for a company of similar size to chew off as well as a potential duplication of brands targeting small, mature markets. The Nelsonville, OH-based company was entrenched in its primary low- to no-growth hunting market (as well as dabbling in work and western markets), and the decision was made to expand its footprint further into work and western. David Sharp, who will become CEO beginning July 1 when Mike Brooks becomes chairman of the board, says the move definitely turned out to be the right one—but that doesn’t mean it went seamlessly or relatively quickly. It took five years to fully digest the acquisition and realign the company for growth going forward. And then there was that little recession along the way that turned out to be a mixed blessing. “The recession made it very difficult for us, but it also helped put us ahead of the curve when it came to implementing cost savings,” Sharp says. In 2007, the company’s SG&A (selling, general and administrative expenses) was $96 million and this year it will come in around $70 million. “We’ve taken a hell of a lot of costs out of the business, but, at the same time, we have improved our operations,” Sharp maintains, noting the cuts include incorporating better technologies as well as employee efficiencies. Sharp believes the belt-tightening was a necessity. “We now have an organization seasoned by the recession and better able to negotiate the impending growth that we have planned,” he says. What’s more, Sharp says that if Rocky Brands had not made the acquisition it could have very likely been in “dire straits” today. The merger gave Rocky Brands a year-round base of business that was more reliable, even in a recession. “When we bought EJ Footwear, all of a sudden we became 60 percent work footwear, which is a far more dependable business than our seasonal third- and fourth-quarter hunting business,” he says. Sharp believes now is a very good time to be at Rocky Brands. “Having right-sized our organization, fine-tuned our operational platform and honed our solid balance sheet, we are now focused on growth,” he says. “We’ve been playing defense for the last three years and now we’re prepared for offense.” The company is coming off a solid 2010: through the first three quarters, overall sales are up close to 10 percent over 2009. Leading the way is work boot sales: Georgia Boot is up 12 percent and Rocky 31 percent. On the western front, sales have been flat, but Sharp is optimistic that its latest collections will be well received by retailers. In particular, he 20 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

R O C K

is excited about the prospects for Rocky’s “Long Range” collection, which he describes as incredibly durable work boots available in 6- and 8-inch cowboy and ranch Wellington silhouettes. “We are backing up our durability claims by offering consumers a six-month outsole, 60-day comfort and lifetime orthotic insert guarantees,” Sharp notes. While Rocky Brands may reside in low-growth markets where market share battles are inevitable, Sharp is confident the company’s stable can grow. “Our top-line growth year-on-year for the next three years is projected to be 10 percent, organically,” he reports. Beyond that, Rocky Brands is open to another, albeit smaller, acquisition that extends the portfolio into the casual market. It’s a no-brainer taking into account that the company currently plays in only 13 percent of the overall footwear market. “We are very interested in finding a complimentary brand and are in a financial position to do so,” he says. “We are looking for something that has a little girth from the get-go and doesn’t need to be incubated for a long period of time.”

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O&A is far better than having a dozen products that The other growth avenue is the international are maybe 80 percent there. Many brands, like market, which the company entered about three Rocky, were built on one great product. Ours was years ago. “We plan to double our international an all-Cordura fabric waterproof hunting boot. sales (outside of North America) in 2011,” Sharp says, adding that there are already strong indications that the goal will be met. “In Europe, the growth is very much built around Rocky’s hunting styles. We are also getting some nice penetration in South America with Durango.” What was the last movie you will be interesting as the tools Sharp says assuming the role of saw? “The King’s Speech.” and their capabilities are furCEO will enable him to become It was fascinating on many ther refined. more strategic and less operational different levels and it porwhich, he adds, is his dream job. trayed British life in the 1930s What person in history do It’s the culmination of a successextremely well. you most admire? I consider ful footwear career that began as a Winston Churchill to be the retail merchandiser at Mercantile What are you reading right most influential person in Stores and later crossed into wholenow? “The Complexity Crisis” modern history. Without his sale, starting with marketing stints by John Marriotti. In fact, it’s foresight, leadership and bullat Genesco, then Converse, Acme required reading for our senior dog tenacity during WWII, we Boot Company and H.H. Brown. management team. It’s about would all be living very differSharp joined Rocky 10 years ago in the pitfalls of chasing high ent lives today. the “unlikely, split-personality, dual growth in low- and no-growth role in manufacturing operations markets. It’s helping us focus as If you could hire anyone, and marketing.” Shortly thereafter, we construct our initiatives for who would it be? Mark he managed sales and eventually the next three years. Zuckerberg. I’d like to know became executive vice president everything he knows about his and COO. In 2005, when the EJ What are your three most Facebook users. Footwear deal went down he added visited websites? WSJ.com, the title of president to his business rockybrands.com and, most What is your motto? Focus on card. Sharp is quick to credit his recently, because I’m an iPad the consumer experience. The employees for helping him climb evangelist, iTunes.com. more we over-deliver, the lonthe corporate ladder as well as the ger we’ll keep our customers. example set forth by current CEO What is inspiring you most Brooks. “Mike is very tenacious and right now? Tablet computing. How do you define success? competitive,” Sharp offers, noting The commercial possibilities Success is something we should that sales have increased about 100via mobile and tablet computnever feel we have quite fully fold during Brooks’ tenure. “When ing are becoming very real and achieved. It should be redefined he came aboard, Rocky was a small, exciting. The next few years so we keep setting new goals. family-run business and now it’s a respected public company with a growing global footprint.” Sharp adds, “One can’t help but respect Nobody had done that before and we still do his humbleness, sense of community and insishundreds of thousands of pairs of similar boots tence on the long-term view for his company. today. So it’s all about getting the right product His achievements speak for themselves.” and about establishing consumer intimacy.

OFF THE CUFF

What do you think was the greatest lesson learned in this entire acquisition process? I don’t know whom to quote but it goes something like this: “Just because you can make and sell something doesn’t mean you should.” I think we learned the need for getting closer to the consumer and making our products more relevant. If you can do that with one product then that 22 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

When you think about it, an amazing amount of error gets introduced industry-wide each season. Yes. One of our internal operational themes going forward is fewer and better. Underneath that we have two objectives: First, to infuse the voice of the customer into our products. We’re working on getting much closer to the end consumer

so that our product development is better and more relevant. Second, [we want] to maximize our product portfolio, and by that we mean almost minimize it. We have the same amount of product development people working on a lot fewer products so they are able to spend more time getting those right. It’s a process of working earlier to weed out the bad ideas and focusing on the better ones so that [products] are fantastic by the time they reach the market. Isn’t this approach really common sense? It is. The temptation is to just make more when you are in low- and no-growth markets to try and increase sales. But what the sales guy often sees as the answer is not always the most profitable strategy. Instead, we are doing more with fewer. It’s really about product excellence. It’s better to focus on making fewer great products than a lot of OK ones. Less can be more—and that goes for designing as well as the number of brands and styles retailers carry. Exactly. When you shop, do you really have the time to search everything that’s on the market? I think the reason you shop specific retailers is because they are aligned with your lifestyle and taste level. They have already done a lot of the preselection for you. With what little time that we have available to shop today, we need someone to do that for us. There is a theory that, at some point, our brains kind of self-combust when looking at too much selection. We say, ‘Screw it, we’ll figure it out another day.” I do that in the supermarket all the time. When I first came to the States in 1972, the local ice cream aisle had 12 to 15 feet of brands on display. Now it’s a couple of aisles and there are tons of ice cream flavors and brands. As an industry veteran, have you seen it all before, so to speak? I’m a veteran but one thing’s certain: I definitely have not seen it all. I think the best and the worst are probably yet to come. What hasn’t changed is the need for creative and driven people, because products and brand communication are what it’s all about. Along those lines, I think the footwear industry navigated this recent downturn pretty well. Even in the most desperate months, we saw consumers respond to fashionable and

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functional footwear styles. Never mind the economic climate— great products and brand stories win every time. And that takes creative minds along with the right inspiration and leadership. Might your brands be more suited to succeeding in a difficult economic climate? For example, people don’t stop hunting because of a recession. And work boots are a job requirement for those lucky to still have a job. Exactly, they don’t stop hunting or working. As for us succeeding in this climate, we believe it’s all about getting the price/value relationship right. At their core, the Durango and Georgia Boot brands have always been about a great value for the working guy. I think that played well for us over the last couple of years. Maybe Red Wing was getting too expensive so they shopped for Georgia Boot. And Rocky has always had an aspirational appeal. The one great aspect about Rocky is that most people discover it for the first time while hunting—when they are in most need for a product to keep them dry, warm and comfortable. If the product surpasses expectations—at a time when they are doing something that they really enjoy—that’s when we hook them on Rocky. Also, there are a number of consumers that, during a downturn, actually seek out better-grade product because they seek longevity and more bang for their buck. The tradesmen, farmers and ranchers that know our brands generally live from day-to-day. They either are going to go down market or up, and we have both covered with Georgia Boot and Rocky, respectively. Where does Georgia Giant fit into this story? Georgia Giant is our lifestyle brand. We have high hopes for it as we leverage Georgia Boot’s all-American heritage and its reputation for great quality and value. The Giant collection is built to appeal to males who are enamored with the current authenticity trend. Unlike many competitors, however, we are priced at $99 to $119 retail, whereas Red Wing and Wolverine 1000 Mile products come in around $250 to $450. We believe our pricing is more in touch with consumer budgets today. In addition, we see a lot of poorly executed product in this niche. We’ve been making these kinds of boots for almost 80 years, so it comes naturally. Finally, we are much more focused on growing the brand. We are more organized, the line has been upgraded and we now have a sales force on the road. We expect to make it happen a little quicker now. What’s your take on the western market? In the States, we’re seeing a sustained undertone of western fashion in footwear and apparel for the last three or four years. Based on this, we’ve had a pretty good run on our Durango women’s collections and have expanded them to respond to this demand. About a year ago, we defined two new segments: Flirt by Durango and Crush by Durango. Flirt attempts to reach new consumers in the core western market with colorful, fun, lightweight boots (features include an EVA outsole construction) to wear with skirts and jeans. Crush defines edgier, urban looks with tattoo-inspired details. Both collections sold in well and are performing well at retail. We are following up with new collections for fall. Also, having Durango in our portfolio allows us to offer a more moderate price point than Rocky. It’s the same thing with Georgia Boot and Rocky in work. It gives us a two-tier approach in the marketplace. What are the leading factors behind a consumer’s purchase decision today? Today, integrity and authenticity are very important. When >73

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After several years of buying and selling sneakers from his friends’ personal collections, owner Jay Lindberg decided in 2005 to open his 1,500-square-foot space and ﬁll it with some of the most unique kicks on the market. “We try to focus on the stuff that you can’t really ﬁnd at Footaction or the department stores,” Lindberg says of the store’s eclectic brands, including Supra, Greedy Genius, Lacoste and JB Classics. “I’ve always been into sneakers,” Lindberg explains. “It kind of turned into a hobby, which turned into a business.”

Self-professed sneakerheads, Julio Rodriquez and his wife Fabby opened their airy shop in 2008 after noticing that San Antonio seemed to be lacking in the stylish sneaker boutique department. Located in a former high-end shoe store, the shop’s gleaming hardwood floors make a striking contrast to the local artists’ murals that showcase the shop’s brands, including Puma, Saucony, New Balance and PF Flyers. “The store is very elegant,” Rodriguez explains, “but it has the essence of street culture in it.”

Current best-selling brand: Creative Recreation; the boots have been doing really well. Followed closely by Supra. Current best-selling shoe: At this point of the year, it’s boots. Year-round, mid- and hi-tops are best-sellers. Creative Recreation’s Solano, in particular, has been doing pretty well. Best new brand added in the past year: PF Flyers. They have the Converse Chuck [Taylor] look, but are a little more classy. Have your customers’ shopping habits changed since the recession kicked in? Most deﬁnitely. They want to get something at a really good price; I think that’s why PF Flyers have done so well. If someone can get a nice shoe for $50 to $80, they’re good with that. How would you describe your average customer? They’re an urban 19- to 22-year-old sneakerhead, who wants to stay fresh and is looking for something to wear to the club that weekend. Our customer isn’t someone’s dad looking for a new pair of tennis shoes. Has sneaker culture changed in the past few years? Yeah, with the introduction of a lot of these new brands. When I was in high school, you wore Nike Air Jordans. I think people are a lot more open to rocking a new brand, even if they’ve never heard of it. Are there any sneaker trends on the verge of breaking big? Wing-tipped sneakers. Best selling accessories: New Era hats. You always want a hat to match your shoes. What’s the coolest promotion your store has done recently? An in-store party for Famous Stars and Straps [new shoe collection]. They did a pre-release to six stores in the U.S., and we were one of them. We had people driving from as far away as Indiana to get that shoe. Is there a perfect sneaker and, if so, what is it? My favorite sneaker would be a black sneaker with a black sole—because it’s easy to keep clean—with a mid-top I can pop the tongue on.

Current best-selling brand: Adidas. The Nike Quickstrike always sells out quickly, too. Current best-selling shoe: We always do well with the running silhouettes, the indie-style shoes and, of course, the basketball models. The cranberry Nike 1/2 Cents did very well. The Adidas Originals and its Star Wars collection did very well for us, also. Projected best-selling brand in 2011: Nike, because they have a lot of Quickstrikes coming out. Are your diehard sneakerheads still willing to camp out waiting for the latest must-have styles? We had people camp out for the [Nike Air Max LeBron 8] South Beach Edition. We’ll probably have them camp out for the Royal Blue Nike Air Foamposite One that drops this month, too. Has sneaker culture changed at all in the past few years? More people are getting excited about it. In addition, diehard Nike fans are starting to explore other brands versus to being dedicated to just one line. Any sneaker trends on the decline? Hi-tops have faded out across the market. Our styles other than sneakers a growing portion of your business? I would say it is. For example, we carry PF Flyers, which really are dressier than a sneaker. Our customers can dress it up or down. Best selling accessories: Nooka and G-Shock watches. What would you say is the coolest in-store event your store held recently? We had [rapper] Biz Markie do a meet-and-greet. What is the biggest challenge facing your business right now? I would say just being creative and trying to ﬁnd ways to separate our products from the big mall stores. We really try to put an emphasis on getting product that those stores don’t carry. Is there a perfect sneaker and, if so, what is it? I’m going to be biased here and say our special makeup collaboration we do with Saucony, the “Shadow 5000.” —Audrey Goodson

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Puma

Creative Recreation

Nike

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40 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

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SPECIAL REPORT continued from page 18 cinco and actor Dax Shepard training in the nude except for ZigTech sneakers. “If you can capture the attention of your consumer, you can build your brand,” explains John Lynch, Reebok’s head of U.S. marketing and merchandising, on the brand’s motivation for the videos. “We think viral offers a creative platform to do more with our brand, and especially with the target consumer we are looking to hit, this is the perfect way to do it.” On the other hand, advertising a speciﬁc product may be the way to go if a company has a truly unique item that can be promoted in an innovative way, notes Jonah Berger, an assistant professor of marketing at Wharton, University of Pennsylvania’s business school. “There are a number of brands that have used the space well, but those that have used it particularly well do something interesting that relates to the brand itself,” he says, pointing to the famed 2006 Blendtec “Will it Blend?” videos, featuring the company president shredding golf balls, marbles and cans of soda in his blender. Combined with a road show advertising campaign, the videos helped the company’s sales spike 700 percent, says Blendtec Marketing Director Julie Owens. Berger points to Vibram’s FiveFingers as a footwear product perfect for the viral marketing arena since their distinctive design means you can easily see people wearing the product and often gets people talking.

CREATE A CONVERSATION Simply posting a clever video on YouTube isn’t the road to success anymore, Lauer cautions. “I can tell you that now the novelty is wearing off and ad execs are starting to think about how you can make it something that’s longer lasting and that cultivates a relationship over time, rather than just generating a spike of hits.” This was the approach Fila took when it launched several viral marketing campaigns this year, says Lauren Mallon, senior global marketing manager. The brand recently co-sponsored a match between tennis Grand Slam Champions Kim Clijsters and Svetlana Kuznetsova, playing Raquet Sports on Nintendo Wii. The event streamed live on Fila’s website, while the company tweeted back and forth with watchers and later had the athletes answer questions submitted via Facebook and Twitter. “It’s [about] building a relationship with our customers and really creating a community online—making ourselves relevant, fun and really interesting,” Mallon explains. The brand also combined video with social media for the launch of its women’s body toning apparel collection, by casting its “real women” spokesmodels in an Internet video campaign featuring celebrity judges. 42 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

The videos were supplemented with Facebook pages for each of the women, and the women were given a flip camera to record themselves wearing Fila in their daily lives—videos which were later posted on Facebook and Fila’s website. “We’ve created a community of people who are fans of these women and this collection,” Mallon says of the campaign’s success. Of course, “these things work in both directions,” notes Lauer. “An ad campaign that doesn’t work very well can generate negative buzz on blogs. It’s tricky and it can be a dangerous game,” he warns. Lynch at Reebok agrees: “The pitfall is if you don’t execute a properly entertaining video or one that is overly commercialized, it can lead to backlash against the brand. Social media is a double-edged sword—you have to realize that you lose some control over where it is posted, how it is shared and what the comments are about your work.”

KEEP IT REAL “It has to seem authentic,” advises Lauer on the secrets of a successful viral video. “If it seems not to have authenticity, it’s a problem for viewers. If it smells of a corporate product being hyped, people will turn away. A lot of videos that go viral are promoted in some way, but it has to be done in a very quiet, sophisticated way.” Therein lies the catch 22 for many retailers and brands looking to advertise online: Viewers have caught on to the fact that brands are using clever videos to capture their attention, and they may feel “deceived” when they realize a video has a corporate message. On the other hand, how are companies supposed to garner attention without any mention of their brand or product? The key is “being honest,” Mayer says. “There are ways to creatively include the brand later on, without feeling like you’re deceiving users or their fans.” And in terms of branding, less is more, she advises. “There are ways you can incorporate your branding or message, but it doesn’t have to be thrown at the user.” She points to the company’s Skechers videos featuring Joe Montana as a good example, since the Skechers logo was left out for most of the campaign. Mayer also says popularity can also be ensured by something “as simple as having a positive message” and Berger advises that “emotional things are more likely to be shared.” But there’s also something to be said for pure old-fashioned entertainment, notes Owens on Blendtec’s amazing online success: “Even if you get the word out, you have to have the people to pass it on. And if the people like it, they pass it on. And if they don’t like it, they just pass.” •

SKECHERS SHAPE-UPS What it does: The ads began with videos featuring the legendary quarterback hitting passing targets, cars, a maintenance guy and ﬁnally, the video camera that seemed to be “secretly” recording him, fueling rumors of a comeback. In the ﬁnal videos, including a Super Bowl ad, the videos revealed that the athlete was promoting Skechers Shape-Ups. Why it Works: “The brand wasn’t up front in your face, and it came out very naturally,” says Mayer.

REEBOK ZIGTECH What it does: For the launch of its ZigTech collection, Reebok leaked three commercials featuring MMA ﬁghter Chuck Liddell, NFL star Chad Ochocinco and actor Dax Shepard training in the nude, wearing nothing but ZigTechs. Why it works: “The videos were leaked to websites and went viral shortly thereafter with over 1,000 links being propagated around the Internet,” says Lynch. “The campaign was augmented with a partnership with “Jimmy Kimmel Live” late night show where Kimmel discussed all three videos the day that they broke and hosted the three stars the day that the shoes hit stores. We felt that those three hit the target demographic that we were looking for with the new shoes, so we decided to hit them where they consume their media and can easily share cool and fun new videos.”

Sneaker fiends in Philadelphia head to restaurant-themed Abakus Takeout.

Burn Rubber in Detroit tempts buyers with a colorful array of kicks and classic hip-hop tunes.

SENSE & SENSIBILITY In today’s crowded marketplace and stifling economy, stores are luring shoppers by creating a stimulating, emotional experience. Five footwear retailers share their secrets to tempting consumers with alluring sensory elements. By Audrey Goodson

Forget dusty old shelves. Shelve generic displays and bland elevator music. Listen to your customers and customize a space perfectly in tune with their tastes and desires: It may sound like new age mumbo-jumbo, but marketing and retail experts agree that today’s shopper is seeking something more than just the actual purchase. “Consumers are looking for experiences that connect with them on an emotional level,” explains Brian McKinley, vice president of marketing for DMX, a company that specializes in creating customized scents and playlists for retailers—including Reebok, Adidas and Foot Locker. Sue Phillips, president of custom-scent company Scenterprises, agrees: “Because the economy has been so bad, consumers are looking more for an experience. Because they are watching their disposable dollar, if retailers are able to offer these wonderful experiential aspects, people will stop by and stay longer.” Not to mention, today’s shopper is frequently seeking an escape from the frenetic pace of everyday life and the impersonal world of the Internet. Retailers that create a “full sensory experience,” as McKinley’s company calls it, build brand loyalty and keep their customers coming back for more. “Consumers use their experiences to draw conclusions and make judgments 44 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

about a store, and this determines whether or not they want to make the store a part of their lifestyle and become a loyal consumer or choose someone or something else,” McKinley explains. So what makes for a memorable shopping experience beyond knowledgeable and courteous salespeople as well as a terrific selection of merchandise? What stimulates the senses beyond everyday low prices? As the footwear shops featured here show, unique décor, tempting aromas, the right tunes, delectable treats and putting the product at your customers’ fingertips all help lure shoppers and boost business. These retailers intrinsically understand exactly what their customers are looking for—and that’s the key to keeping them happy, says Marc Elfenbein, president of Mood Media, which helps retailers create customized in-store audio, video and media. “We basically develop a prototype person we’re trying to appeal to and build a program around that specific persona,” he says of the company’s methods for creating the perfect ambiance. These five retailers have mastered the art of identifying their customers’ desires and have created unique ways to please with an immersive, multi-sensory experience. Dive in.

Out of the box decor at Abakus Takeout.

The Chocolate Shoe Box in Seattle dishes out shoes and sweets.

SEEING IS BELIEVING :

abakus takeout

Located in the heart of Philadelphia’s Chinatown, Abakus Takeout appears at ﬁrst to be exactly what its name implies—a tiny Chinese takeout shop. It’s even got the obligatory Chinese characters on its bright yellow awning and roasted ducks swinging in the window. So newcomers to the neighborhood stop in their tracks when they notice multicolored sneakers swinging next to the ducks. “Even while we were opening, everybody around the

Shoe laces are served up in deep fryers and sneakers swing next to roast duck replicas (above) at Abakus Takeout.

neighborhood was curious,” says co-founder Jackson Fu. “They were like, ‘Oh no, not another restaurant to compete with us.” So it came as a surprise to locals to discover the store wasn’t serving up lo mein, but vintage sneakers. “We felt that just having a plain old wooden floor, white walls and normal display rack didn’t add to the whole retail experience. You have to have some type of concept,” Fu explains. He and his co-founder Ky Cao were inspired by famous stores like Dave’s Quality Meat in New York and Johnny Cupcakes in Massachusetts— sneaker and T-shirt shops that were set up resemble butchers and bakeries, respectively. Just like those stores, Abakus Takeout’s unique theme doesn’t stop at the door. Inside, bright red walls and golden dragons on the ceiling transport visitors to a Shanghai noodle shop, while the back of the store is a dead-ringer for a takeout kitchen, down to the industrial mat, stainless steel wall paneling, deep fryers and woks—holding tennis shoes and laces, of course. “You’re really experiencing everything as a whole: shoestrings in the deep fryer, red and yellow laces in ketchup and mustard containers and takeout boxes with laces inside,” says Fu, who was so meticulous, the store’s website even looks like a takeout menu. Abakus Takeout’s funky décor is perfect for its clientele, who don’t mind paying top dollar to sport some of the shop’s hard-to-find vintage Nike, Adidas, Reebok and Puma kicks. “In Philadelphia, no one would ever catch themselves going into Chinatown to shop, so our shop kind of brought a different type of crowd into the neighborhood.” february 2011 • footwearplusmagazine.com 45

The duo also makes sure to support local musicians by hosting in-store events, posting promotion posters and sponsoring concerts around town. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The bottom line is we stay completely in tune with the music scene, and not just hip-hop,â&#x20AC;? Colt says, noting itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a necessity for keeping customers coming back. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It gives them that extra sense of security that we represent them, that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re cool and that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re up on the things that theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re up on. We relate to our customers and they relate to us 100 percent.â&#x20AC;?

Rick Williams (right) and Roland Colt, also known as rapper Ro Spit, stay in tune with the Detroit hip-hop scene.

LISTEN UP :

burn rubber

The Motor City hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t gotten much credit for music since the Motown days, but locals will tell you Detroit has a very active hip-hop scene. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so important that owners Rick Williams and Roland Colt only play the latest and greatest hip-hop at Burn Rubber, the 680-square foot sneaker boutique they took over in 2007. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all big fans of the music, and we have to be playing it in the store because thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what the kids come here looking for,â&#x20AC;? Colt says. Picking a playlist to please their customers is never a problem, since Colt and Williams are already tuned into the hip-hop world. As popular local rapper Ro Spit, Colt has opened for national acts Wale and Talib Kweli, and regular visitors to the store include everyone from singer Mike Posner to rappers Big Sean, Rick Ross and Wale, who held an in-store meet-and-greet before his concert last July.

Flip Flop Shops lure customers with the sweet scent of coconut suntan oil.

ON THE SCENT :

flip flop shops

Think of ďŹ&#x201A;ip ďŹ&#x201A;ops and you think of warm sand, bright sun and cool ocean breezes. But Flip Flop Shops CEO Darin Kraetsch and President Brian Curin knew that recreating the beach experience would take more than evocative

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visuals when they rebranded and took over their chain in 2008. That’s why every visitor who walks into a Flip Flip Shops (now at 87 stores and counting) is greeted by the sweet scent of coconut suntan oil. “It’s fun to see them smile and actually see that memory recall happen on their faces. It just recreates a memory of a beach vacation or tropical experience,” Kraetsch says. “We really believe [scent] is one of the most significant parts of our branding,” he adds, noting that the beachy aroma is a perfect fit for the brand’s laidback vibe and “free your toes” motto. “When we were designing Flip Flop Shops, we paid attention to all the different senses. Believe me, if they had an edible flip-flop, we’d have it.”

TASTEMAKER :

the chocolate shoe box

Women love shoes and women love chocolate, so why not combine the two? That was Sadaf Hussain’s reasoning when she opened The Chocolate Shoe Box in Seattle’s Phinney Ridge neighborhood last April. A vegan, Hussain had always dreamed of opening a vegan chocolate shop, but she noticed that Seattle—full of quality chocolate options—was seriously lacking in vegan footwear. The 650-square foot boutique caters to locals and tourists seeking a guiltfree indulgence, offering many local, organic, fairly-traded sweets and a wide array of women’s and men’s vegetarian and vegan shoe brands, including Novacas, Birki’s, Neuaura, Jambu, Cri de Coeur, Autonomie Project, John Fluevog and Beourgeois Boheme. Hussain often lures visitors into the store with free samples of the shop’s tasty chocolates, caramels and cookies. “To me, shoes and chocolates are the perfect pairing, just like a veggie burger and French fries,” she says. “These are passions for many women and unlike dress sizes, you can eat as many chocolates and goodies as you want and it won’t affect your shoe size. It’s the perfect pick-me-up, and people often come to our store to celebrate good times or to give themselves a lift.”

Vegan shoes and chocolate make a perfect pair in Seattle.

A TOUCH ABOVE :

roxanne’s birkenstock

With over 50 comfort brands in stock, Roxanne’s Birkenstock in Fresno, CA, never has a hard time matching visitors with seriously comfortable shoes. But getting busy clientele in the door isn’t always easy—especially when locals work 20-hour shifts at nearby hospitals. So when the shop was approached by a local hospital and asked to bring some shoes, it seemed like a perfect solution to manager Shawna Trujillo. The busy hospital staff would get a chance to relax and shop while on the job, and Trujillo would get the opportunity to convince a new crop of customers that her shoes were the perfect solution for their aching feet. The first event was so successful, the shop’s employees soon found themselves visiting up to 15 hospitals a year and traveling as far as five hours away to Mission Viejo, CA. “We’re providing healthy footwear that people may not otherwise have a chance to get. It’s rewarding for everybody,” she explains. By reaching out to the community—and giving customers a chance to feel their shoes firsthand— the shop cultivates lifelong customers. “They can’t believe they lived without the shoes for so long,” Trujillo says of the folks she converts to comfort wear. •

DE S IGN E R FORU M : FA L L ’ 11

THE

NEW RULES Reﬁned, versatile, practical, realistic, original and a dose of welcomed decadence: all key themes in our exclusive panel of leading designers’ fall collections. By Angela Velasquez Fiorentini + Baker

Deborah Baker, founder and designer, Fiorentini + Baker.

50 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

Even with Fiorentini and Baker’s A-List clientele—Anne Hathaway, Tom Cruise, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sarah Jessica Parker and Nicole Kidman are just a few loyal devotees—and a chic New York flagship store in the works, Fiorentini and Baker founder and designer Deborah Baker remains humble and dedicated to her product. In terms of quality, she says, “There’s so much rubbish, but designers who stay true to their roots are doing well.” For example, Baker lauds Marni for staying focused on what the company does best and delivering a line that’s identifiable, but not loaded with branding. “For educated consumers, it’s less about fashion trends and more about finding designs they can live in. We have a good clientele because we create styles that go with a variety of outfits,” Baker explains. With an emphasis on shorter boots (Baker says, “They just feel right.”), the Fall ’11 collection delivers leather styles in rich antique green, purple and dark teal similar to the opulent tones in Derek Jarman’s film Caravaggio, a movie that inspires Baker. “I’ve had the same icons forever,” she says, adding that people and places stay in her memory and resurface in collections. “People are receptive to everything.” Other styles range from flat utilitarian boots to feminine tall-shafted boots with 4-inch heels to one of Baker’s favorites, the Mellow, a comfortable and edgy boot with a 2.5-inch heel. As a brand signature, boots are accented with brass studs, buttons and buckles that serve a function. “I like things that work and have a purpose,” Baker adds. The designer doesn’t foresee a major shift in apparel trends—except for more detailed coats, longer skirt lengths and wide-leg trousers, which she says will complement the fall line’s group of lace-up brogues. “It could be just my personal preference, but I think fashion is leaning toward the elegance of the late ’70s,” Baker says.

United Nude United Nude lives up to its reputation for the unexpected with the addition of Fall ’11 styles that are less architectural in nature. “We do this not only to surprise our clientele, but also to show our capabilities,” says Rem D. Koolhaas, founder and creative director. The designer recognized high-end retailers’ demand for such creations: i.e., affordable with strong sell-throughs. “It’s funny how trends work, but it’s just something that moves in circles,” he says.

Is the market oversaturated with any particular silhouette? There should be fewer oxfords and clogs. Personally, I also think there are too many fur boots, but at the same time, this trend has legs.

What are the leading design themes this fall? The majority of Fall/Winter collections will need to be practical, as the climate simply dictates this. We’ve had some extreme weather in Europe and America recently, so making shoes warmer and more comfortable—like lowering the heel height and widening the last a bit, so that socks can easily be worn—are wise decisions. In addition, adding a thicker structured outsole will keep shoes drier and improve the grip, while giving a tough, rugged look at the same time. This educated customer demands a bit more of our industry than just good looks.

Are there any leather treatments on the rise? Waxed suede, nubuck leathers (including sliced nubuck), buffed vintage leathers and craquelure metallic suedes. We’re also mixing leathers with velvet and wool tweed.

Rem D. Koolhaas

Are wedges still a big story? Wedges will continue to be a big player for fall. The shape gives designers a lot of material to play around with. They’re stable, and therefore easy to wear. What’s the “it” color pop for the season? Papaya—a beautiful, rustic dark orange. What’s the new neutral? Taupe, which coordinates with anything.

What’s your favorite shoe in your collection? I have more than one favorite, but the Eamz Zip boot and the Fold Lite are worth another mention. Both are well-balanced, and will appeal to many people. The Lo Res in transparent wine red is a real jewel, and the Hollow Zip boot for men is something that I’ll be wearing all of the time.

Steven Dann

When it comes to shoes, what do women really want? Something original. We have come to an age where people don’t have to wear what everyone else is wearing. Our freedom in the modern world is something that we have built up and that we are proud of. People should deﬁnitely diversify. After seasons of “classics,” will consumers be ready to spend on trendier items? People will still buy classics—which are also their basics—but on top of that, they’ll buy that one other shoe that has ‘wow’ effect. Maybe it’s that boot that makes the woman adore herself in the mirror just a bit more. People deserve a little more, and with today’s broad selection of shoes, this is a good way to do so. Will boots continue to be a big story? Ankle booties remain popular—they vary from a short boot to just over the ankle. Short boots in general will be even bigger than before. Over-the-knee styles will still exist, but a bit less. Retailers don’t like to be left with stock of big, expensive merchandise. One of the problems that we see with boots is increasingly high price points. The general price of leather has gone up a lot over the years; therefore, boots will have to be designed smarter to stay more affordable. What are United Nude’s key styles this season? The Fold Lite, an update of one of our best-selling shoes, comes with a lower and slimmer heel. We gave our Bubble boot a zipper and a zipper pocket, making it multifunctional. The Block shoes have new uppers and a slightly wider last, with a small platform for the highest heel. The latest Eamz zip boot is the style’s coolest ever! We used the ﬁnest calf leather and a luxurious metal zipper slanted across the upper. And we have some exciting new styles such as the Cross, which has a cross-shaped aluminum heel, and the Spat boot with an integrated spat covering the calves. Are zippers and closures becoming a bigger design element? Yes— there are hardly any lace boots or booties left without a zipper. The last thing people want to do is waste their time tying up their shoes!

Fall ‘11 continues in military mode.

Designer Steven Dann knows a good plea when he hears one. “The luxury market—from retailers to their clientele—are hungry for real luxury,” he asserts. During the last three years, the designer has seen high-end and ambitious footwear designs take a backseat to pareddown styles and basics. “The product my customers want has not existed,” he explains, adding it’s a good sign for the entire footwear industry if luxury retailers seem ready to pick up a higher price point. Along with a stable of classic riding boots, Dann brings forth decadence this fall with styles like an über-luxe ﬂat caramel suede overthe-knee boot (a Steven Dann ﬁrst) lined with chinchilla. He describes the boots as “to die for.” Still, Dann says women can get a lot of wear from his collection: “They’re chic and go from day to night.” Red carpet-worthy looks—many with high wedge heels, pops of bright blue and military-inspired details—drive the rest of Dann’s line. The designer, who launched readyto-wear last spring, says he dislikes how brands are designing for the recent slew of reality-television starlets. “These girls are not style icons,” he pronounces. (Editor’s note: We couldn’t agree more.) And despite

february 2011 • footwearplusmagazine.com 51

DE S IGN E R FORU M : FA L L ’ 11 the return of “practical heel heights,” Dann believes there’s still an audience searching for glamorous shoes. “What could be worse than seeing a beautiful girl at a club wearing a kitten heel?” he asks. “Women still want a sexy shoe.”

Gourmet Contemporary, classic—call the label what you like, says Gourmet co-founder and designer Jon Buscemi. The fall line is a solid representation of the brand’s Old World Italian charm and all-American good looks. “The beauty is, when you see a new style from us, it feels like Gourmet. The design DNA is evident,” he explains. Buscemi believes his customers still look to celebrities for fashion guidance, while designers are inspired by their memories. “I think more than ever, most designers look to past inﬂuences or prior decades and time periods for inspiration. I think Steve McQueen is more of a trendsetter than, say, Justin Timberlake,” he offers. “We’re designing in a sort of nostalgic way. All of the ideas are in our heads.” How would you describe the industry’s mood for fall? In general, Steve McQueen: Gourmet’s King of style. footwear retailers, salespeople and designers seem to be fairly jovial. I’m predicting Fall ’11 will be a happy season. We’re lucky to be able to talk about and actually physically work in this industry. What do men want in their fall footwear purchases? Each winter, we always have two go-to designs: a solid waterproof boot and a casual high-top for those cold but dry winter days. A high-top in full-grain leather will keep you warm and looks good with a suit or denim. We also love to buck the trend each year and have a bright white-on-white shoe of some nature for those sunny winter days. There’s nothing more surprising than a white-on-white casual low-top, paired with a duffel coat or trench on a freezing but sunny day in New York. Are consumers willing to splurge on trendy shoes again? I think there’s always room for the fast, trendy pieces. We always sneak in a snake or a cheetah print. There’s always someone out there who wants a little extra. What are the key silhouettes for men this fall? This season is deﬁnitely about outdoor boot models. Our 21 model was a crowd favorite, and we’re updating it with imported Italian leathers and laces. Another standout will be the Tredici, a low-top hiker updated with an EVA midsole to make it super lightweight and functional. New styles include the Dignan, which resembles an early ’90s running shape with a nylon rip-stop gator upper. Also new for us this season is the SK8 model, inspired by late ’80s skateboarding footwear. We renewed this look with gun rubber panels and accents that tell a story unique to the design. Do you think any styles are on their last legs? Of course, but there are customers who repeatedly go back to something they love.

52 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

I have friends who still wear Nike Air Force Ones all spring and summer, and 6-inch Timberland boots when it’s cold. Can you imagine if they didn’t make those anymore? Chaos! Which colors will be important for fall? We’re big on collegiate, varsity colors: navy, maroon and golden yellow. We call it Harry Potter for the ’hood. And the best accent color is red. Season after season, we offer variations in fire engine, ruby and chili—it will always be there. Any key neutrals? We’re partial to cream, eggshell, winter white or marshmallow. It’s important each season to have cream in the line. What are some key materials you’re using in the line? We included Italian camouflage suede. Camo comes and goes, but it felt right for this season. We’re also big on combining materials, so we paired a lot of suede and full-grain leathers. The contrast always finishes a shoe perfectly—like when a collar, heel and eye stays are suede and the body of the shoe is smooth full grain. It’s a complete look. Will embellishments be big for Fall ’11? We’re using mountaineering hardware and D-rings on a few styles to tell an outdoor story, but they’re also functional at the same time. We’re also using seam sealed elements—a nice touch. What’s your favorite shoe in the fall collection? It has to be the 21— a waterproof rain boot lasted on a white running sole with a supersoft, vegetable tanned leather. What’s better than that? Not only is it perfect for the season—it tells the story of our entire brand.

Candela Candela designer Gabriela PerezuttiIsacson is eager to introduce her Fall ’11 collection, which she describes as slightly cleaner and sleeker, but still exciting to wear. The stud and lace embellishments from Candela’s previous collections are toned down in favor of utilitarian footwear with nontraditional materials. “Our customer doesn’t look to us for basics. They want something special,” she explains. Along with co-designer Natalia KuksJacobs, Perezutti-Isacson believes the brand will deliver the wearable styles that the U.S. market demands—together with the quality, detail and Animal magnetism: beauty that drive women to the checkCamel and gray are key neutrals for Candela. out counter. Similar to the vibe in Fall ’11 apparel, Candela’s latest collection tells a story of modernized ’70s classics with rounder toes, stacked heels and thinner lasts. “It’s less about architectural platforms and more about wearable designs,” she says. Even with less ornate yet exaggerated details, Perezutti-Isacson says the line has an edge with pony hair, python-printed leathers, animal prints and unusual colors. Elephant gray and camel lay the foundation for pick-up colors such as blue, emerald green and dusty rose. “Our color palette isn’t shocking, but it’s uncommon,” the designer explains. Perezutti-Isacson says she and Kuks-Jacobs like to play with feminine and masculine looks. That aesthetic is represented in key silhouettes: scholarly T-straps and loafers; pumps with extreme-distressed leathers; mountain-inspired boots and Perezutti-Isacson’s favorite, >71

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STYLE DIRECTOR : MICHEL ONOFRIO FASHION EDITOR : ANGELA VELASQUEZ

Wolverine 1000 Mile button boot. Vintage floral dress; shirt and scarf by Notify; vintage Tibetan textiles; Falke socks.

chamber music

Sumptuous velvet, shades of blue and hints of shimmer brew a decadent story for Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;11. Photography by Cleo Sullivan

Bacio 61 platform pump. Etro dress, vintage jacket; stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scarf. Opposite page: Loafer by Nicole. A.P.C. floral blouse; Nanette Lapore skirt; vintage bloomers, jacket and hat; Falke tights.

From left: Etienne Aigner suede loafer. Free People shirt; Notify dress; Nanette Lapore vest; Tibetan textile head piece. Vintage coat; striped blouse by Paul & Joe Sister; Kenzo skirt; Nanette Lapore vest; Tibetan textile head piece. Poetic Licence jewel peep-toe. Etro kimono sleeve blouse; Kenzo dress. Candela dress; skirt by Nanette Lapore; Tibetan textiles worn as a wrap; vintage hat.

Plenty by Tracy Reese bootie. Kenzo blouse and quilted jacket; vintage skirt, belt and hat; Falke over-the-knee socks. Opposite: Messeca bootie. Nanette Lapore skirt; vintage blouse, bolero, sash and headscarf; tights by Falke.

From left: Kelsi Dagger velvet flat. Vintage dress and skirt; over-the-knees socks by Falke. Brocade flat by Jellypop. Missoni sweater; vintage blouse and skirt; Falke tights. Opposite page: Pour la Victoire oxford. Missoni sweater; Nanette Lapore blouse; vintage dress and hat; Tibetan textiles worn as sash. 62

Makeup: Tamah K @ See Managment. Hair: Yoihi @ See Management. Models: Ali Stepka, Img; Lida Fox, Next; Shannon P. , New York Models 2; Francesca Vuillemn, Fusion Models. 63

Designer Chat: Leifsdottir

64 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

Clockwise from top: Madeline stiletto boot, canvas boot by Bronx, Caressa shoetie, Impo ankle boot.

E D I T O R’ S P I C K S

Going Undercover

What lies beneath offers a layered allure for fall.

Who is the Leifsdottir woman? She’s a real woman of today, with a strong personal style. She’s feminine, cultured, informed and understands our design references.

Which footwear designers do you admire most? Roger Vivier is able to make a strong artistic statement with a simple silhouette.

What is your dream shoe? Something versatile and comfortable for my travels, so I can enjoy the adventure.

Who is inﬂuencing fashion most today? A single style icon isn’t important as it once was. Stylists and bloggers are having a major impact. I’m also inﬂuenced by everyday encounters.

Which pair of shoes in your closet is getting the most wear at the moment? A very old pair of short boots I pulled out from the back of my closet. They never went out of style. What shoe style will never be found in a Leifsdottir collection? Never say never, but loafers. I think they are awful.

What is missing currently in the U.S. footwear market? On the contemporary level, we’re losing uniqueness. There is more innovation in Europe. European designers and women are willing to push the envelope. —Angela Velasquez

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN POWELL

DIRECTLY OUT OF the gate, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue added Leifsdottir to their list of sought-after footwear brands—quick successes that validates Creative Director Johnanna Uurasjarzi’s artistic DNA. The Scandinavian design veteran headed Anthrolpogie’s fashion, accessory and home design departments for 10 years before establishing her namesake apparel line three years ago. Footwear makes its debut this spring. “It’s always exciting to encounter a new category,” Uurasjarzi explains. “With footwear, I get a chance to slow down and take time to focus on construction.” Handbags are expected to debut this year, too. “The collections inspire each other,” Uurasjarzi says, noting that she instinctively considers footwear silhouettes while designing skirt lengths and vice-versa. The brand has an undeniable Scandinavian feel with details that reﬂect the design movement’s distinct modern shapes as well as an emphasis on form and function, not to mention Uurasjarzi’s personal love of fairy tales. Slightly more eclectic than spring’s softer natureinspired shoe designs, Uurasjarzi says the Fall ’11 collection echoes Istanbul’s “opulent melting pot of a culture.” Crinkled patents, brocades and a lush palette of sepia brown, red, saffron and teak enliven comfortable silhouettes, which Uurasjarzi says will present a more minimalist aesthetic with mid heels, shorter boot shafts and Mary Janes with architectural heels.

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Dear Friends, I want to share two important items. Two Ten Scholarship applications for the 2011-2012 academic year are now available at www.twoten.org. The K-Swiss Super Scholar Scholarship will be awarded to one student who displays exceptional academically and personally abilities and substantial financial need. â&#x20AC;˘

Annual award up to $15,000 renewable for four years

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Preferential consideration given to children of independent retailers

For information, please contact the Scholarship Department: Phone: 1-800-346-3210 Email: scholarship@twoten.org

Warmest regards,

Peggy Kim Meill President, Two Ten Footwear Foundation

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IN THE DETAILS

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Laces Hiking-inspired styles break ties with traditional shoe strings.

66 footwearplusmagazine.com â&#x20AC;˘ february 2011

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN POWELL

Simple

INTERNATIONAL EVENT FOR SHOES & ACCESSORIES

MARCH 16-18 ★ ★DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY

The New News

New Designers’ Area, new days and new visitor registration system on tap for the upcoming GDS show.

To better meet the needs of both manufacturers and retailers, organizers of GDS, the international event for shoes and accessories, and Global Shoes—the leading trade show for sourcing— have moved its dates to March 16-18, (a Wednesday through Friday instead of the traditional weekGet to Germany! end format) at the fairgrounds in Düsseldorf, TT Travel Inc. offers convenient hotel and travel arrangements. For details, Germany. Also new is a revised visitor admiscall (866) 674-3476, fax (212) 674-3477 or sion management system: When attendees e-mail contact@traveltradeint.com. register online in advance (at www.gds-online. More information is available at www. com) they’ll receive a free e-ticket. traveltradeint.com. For additional About 1,190 exhibitors from 41 countries and show information, go to GDS-online.com. visitors from around the world are expected to attend the two shows. Speciﬁcally at GDS, approximately 780 exhibitors will showcase 1,850 shoe, handbag and accessory collections, offering a comprehensive market overview of Fall/Winter 2011/2012. Helping navigate it all, the unique “Follow the Trend” concept will lead visitors through the various halls to experience the latest trends and market themes. Fashion shows will present the new styles, while trend installations will provide product details and inspiration for store displays. In addition, a seminar series will inform about key ordering trends and sector-speciﬁc topics. The new Designers’ Area, in cooperation with the British Footwear Association, will feature select labels, including Esska, Five By Rio Ferdinand, House of Harlow, Miss L Fire, Modern Vintage, One True Saxon, Shellys, Strutt London, Ted Baker and Unleashed. It will be located directly adjacent to the Upper Style Zone and White Cubes designer showcase. The 400 exhibitors from 21 countries at Global Shoe will showcase volume business, including a wide range of women’s, men’s and children’s as well as athletic, casual and wellness-oriented footwear.

ATHLETIC COMFORT DRESS KIDS OUTDOOR

Renaissance Man Heyday’s Darin Hager is an army of one in building a lifestyle brand.

WORK

Mass Appeal Creative Recreation’s designs attract a diverse crowd. CREATIVE RECREATION’S YOUTUBE video “Life with Style” first appeared on the brand’s blog, The CR Journal, in mid-December and tells the company’s story. Set to electronic artist Toro y Moi’s easy-listening, retro-esque track “Talamak,” each scene captures the feet of someone wearing Creative Rec in the subway, on a hike at sunset, with their feet propped up on a desk, on a motorcycle, pushing a swing and on the red carpet. The message: Creative Rec is everywhere and worn by everyone—new moms, celebrities, musicians, sneakerheads, regular folk and company execs. “The brand has done an incredible job staying away from being placed in one particular market or genre,” says Julie Van Daele, marketing manager. It’s what most marketers would deem brand suicide—avoiding defining who they are and who they’re for. “It has developed a sense of ambiguity, creating a shoe for every kind of consumer, whether it be a skate, surf, urban, trendsetter or preppy consumer.” In fact, being broadly accepted while still being held in high regard among alpha sneakerheads is arguably an industry first and a testament to the brand’s classic design sense and general wearability. The brand’s versatile aesthetic will continue this fall, according to Van Daele. For men, new styles merge the elements of a dress shoe, sneaker and boot, allowing for many different uses in one shoe. On the women’s side, two new ankle-height styles hit the shelves in denim, gray cotton and a black suede/leather combo. —Meagan Walker

68 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

HEYDAY FOOTWEAR IS a one-man show—literally. Darin Hager designs, markets, communicates with factories, processes orders, pitches to venture capitalists and angel investors, attends industry conferences, answers the phones, blogs and Tweets—a lot. That’s why his title is CEO—Chief Everything Officer—of Heyday Footwear. Hager says three things (and an asterisk) set Heyday apart: original design, premium materials and comfort constructions. As for the asterisk, Hagar says it’s about building a personal connection with individual customers; something he sees as a non-negotiable in today’s world of hyperconnectivity. “In a way, my entire set-up enables me to forge that connection,” he offers. When a customer calls with a question, Hager answers. “For the average kid buying sneakers, they’re never going to talk to Mark Parker [CEO of Nike] on the line,” Hager says. “That’s how I build this connection with my fans: Having an amazing product is one component; customer service is the other.” Hager calls his design approach “shoe math.” He sees it as taking different constructions or trends—not necessarily in footwear—and combining them to create something unexpected. For example, the soon-to-be-released Super Shift Premium in black python is made of calf leather, which is embossed and hand-finished. “You may see that leather on a women’s handbag, but not on a men’s sneaker,” he says. “Sure, other people have used snakeskin, but it’s never been leather like that.” The Heyday customer is someone flashy who wants to be comfortable and original. Perhaps that’s why such celebrities as Jay Sean, Tre Songz and Flo Rida have sported the brand. Hager has his own philosophy on the (unpaid) celebrity endorsements: “Shoe business, not show business,” he says. “At the end of the day, I’m here to sell shoes. My shoes aren’t fantastic because Jay Sean wears them; Jay Sean wears them because they’re fantastic.” —M.W.

Great Danes Shoe The Bear founders offer their take on Scandinavian sneaker art. HAILING FROM AARHUS, Denmark, Shoe The Bear is the brainchild of Thomas Frederiksen and Jakob Fuglsang. The brand was launched in 2007 under the notion that these weren’t just sneakers, but something larger—an “extra layer and universe,” as Frederiksen describes it. Simplicity and consistency coupled with artist collaborations are Shoe The Bear’s trademarks. The brand ﬁnds a new collaboration partner with whom they develop a line of unique art sneakers for each collction. This past season, the brand brought SHFT, two creatives who run a design agency in Copenhagen, on board to dream up three new

Easy Does It Somnio facilitates safe entry into natural motion running. FIRST THERE WAS Vibram FiveFingers and Ecco BIOM. Then Saucony, New Balance, Merrell, Newton Running and a host of others released their interpretations of what natural motion running footwear design should look and feel like. Amid the growing stampede was also the launch of Somnio (means “dream” in Latin), which hit the ground running in 2009. The brand was founded by Sean Sullivan, an avid runner who was experiencing chronic pain hitting the pavement. While being treated at the Boulder Center for Sports Medicine, Sullivan learned that the problem was not his body, but rather his shoes. He quickly realized he wasn’t the only one suffering. People, he says, were lacing up shoes that amount to nothing, hitting the rock-hard streets and winding up hurt. Inspired by the belief that shoes should work for the individual, Sullivan founded Somnio. Created to adapt the the user, Somnio shoes use stability and support to correct biomechanical problems caused by running. Led by the brand’s exclusive F.E.A.T. ﬁt system, three interchangeable components can be customized to ﬁt individuals running style, arch support and foot and leg alignment. With the help of musculoskeletal therapist,

styles. “We made some very cool kicks together,” Frederiksen offers. “Hand-sewn leather patches, a tribute to trees and a simple message of remembering to have fun.” The founders pride themselves on not getting carried away and keeping their designs wearable. “We just want to design shoes for people in the streets (and bars) and not get stuck on a big white board with crazy designs that will never work in real life,” Frederiksen says. “It’s good to think big thoughts about mind-blowing, extravagant sneaker design, but it’s always a relief to get out in the world and see what really works on the people.” What works for Shoe The Bear is a classic, just-below-the-ankle cut with laces that either blend nicely or add a color pop. And since each season features a new collaboration partner, the classic silhouette is updated with fresh looks that become one-offs. Having previously worked for Levi’s and Diesel, Frederiksen has the expertise to make the line ﬂourish. The company’s big break came in 2008 when it was asked to represent Scandinavian design at Tokyo Fashion Week. Shoe The Bear was received with open arms in Japan and caught on from there. The brand is now sold in 13 countries, with Japan, Australia and Germany as the largest markets. As for the U.S., Shoe The Bear ships directly to consumers via its website, www.shoethebear.com. “The United States could be one of the next big milestones, and we would love to supply American retailers with cool Scandinavian sneakers,” Frederiksen says. “But we are not in a hurry. For us, the most important thing is the people we work with, so we’ll wait until the right partner in the U.S. comes along.” —M.W.

Phil Wharton, Somnio developed the Nada (Spanish for “nothing”). The Nada weighs in at 3.5 ounces (“People pick up the box and think it’s empty,” Sullivan says) and each pair comes with an instructional DVD developed by Wharton. The 14-minute video takes the customer through a series of ﬂexibility and range of motion exercises that gradually prepare the foot for minimal shoes. “People don’t realize how fragile the foot is,” Wharton attests. “Minimal is great long-term, but it takes time to learn correct form.” In addition to its performance and wellness attributes, Sullivan believes the new Nada style will be a hit aesthetically, especially with the female market. He’s heard from dealers that women seem to be uninterested in Vibram FiveFingers because of how they look. “Unintentionally, I think we have a nice-looking shoe that speaks to people who are interested in that wellness beneﬁt.” —M.W.

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Talking Points Reebok enlists ESPN’s Erin Andrews to endorse ZigTech. FIRST MEGA-STARS Peyton Manning, Sidney Crosby and Chad Ochocinco endorsed Reebok’s popular ZigTech line, a trio that will be back this spring hawking the ZigDynamic for men. Meanwhile, the company has enlisted the services of ESPN reporter and former Dancing With the Stars contestant Erin Andrews to endorse the ZigFly SE for women. Andrews is the first female face of the campaign. “I have been athletic all my life, and I’m thrilled to be working out in the same footwear and apparel that helps these athletes perform at the top of their game,” Andrews states. ZigFly, which Reebok refers to as the “energy drink for your feet,” provides a combination of energy return and cushioning that minimizes leg muscle wear-and-tear by up to 20 percent, especially in the shins and hamstrings. “The design influence was to put a stretched-out horizontal slinky under your feet,” says Bill McInnis, head of advanced innovation at Reebok. “The ‘Zigs’ are designed to help transfer energy from Zig to Zig, from heel strike all the way to toe off.” McInnis says the design is unique in the footwear market—that usually a consumer either finds a soft, forgiving shoe with poor energy return, or extremely firm sneakers (like track spikes), that get good return but aren’t comfortable. “ZigTech is a mechanical design that’s made of foam,” he explains. “This provides the best of both worlds—you get the energy return of a mechanical system and the comfort of foam.” —M.W.

continued from page 52 ite, a group of quilted pumps and boots. “We’re moving away from over-the-knee styles,” she adds. “It’s exciting to see other heights like below-the -knee and just above the ankle ﬂourish.”

Belle by Sigerson Morrison For Fall ’11, designers Kari Sigerson and Miranda Morrison share a single vision for their diffusion line Belle by Sigerson Morrison: a focus on strong lines and rich materials that women can play with and incorporate into their personal style. For example, the ladies say many styles can be worn cuffed up or down, or can project an entirely different look depending on how the shoes are styled with hosiery. Quintessential fall silhouettes— booties and the increasingly popuBelles of the ball: Morrison and Sigerson lar outdoor-inspired high heel— remain a strong story, while updated materials like shearling, crepe and textured metallics inject newness into the collection. Which trend should retailers most take note of? Fall ’11 will be a mix of punky utilitarian tomboy and clean feminine modern classics. In terms of pop culture, who are the leading trend setters? Alexa Chung, Erin Wasson, Sienna Miller, Rihanna, Florence and the Machine, Lykke Li, Emma Roberts, Emma Watson and Cat Powers.

Eyes on style icons: Florence Welsh and Alexa Chung.

tallics, abstract animal prints and pony hair calf. The season is less about embellishment, and more about rich materials and textures. What are your favorite shoes in your latest collection? A silver bootie with a crepe sole that’s lined with grey shearling and can be worn cuffed up or down. It’s chic, sporty and casual but sexy; it’s tough but girly and ﬂexible. It has a lot of interest without being overly done. We also like a silver kiltie design, as well as a pointed-toe ﬂat and crepesoled shoetie and a peep-toe shoetie with triangular cutouts. •

What do women seek in their fall footwear purchases? Women are increasingly interested in great pieces with longevity, which also feel true to themselves. They lead full lives—from casual hanging out and running errands to more demanding occasions, both socially and at work. Everyone has a closet to ﬁll, and every facet of life may reﬂect a slightly different image. What tempts women most to buy these days? Special details—styles that consumers can make their own—and rich materials are important. The trend seems to be for fresh takes on timeless pieces—from the ladylike pump to utilitarian combat boots.

Back To School 2011 Market

What’s the status on boots next season? After over-the-knee boots, plus many seasons of booties and perennial classic tall boots, we think women are more interested in new heights. They’re more open to higher booties and mid-shaft boots. What about wedges? We’re interested in a scope of shapes, from blocky to more edgy, but we have less of a feeling for architectural heels and wedges right now. We still love wedges and have some great new ones this season, but they’re less Le Corbusier and more organic. How will apparel and footwear complement each other this fall? It seems like there is a very strong feeling for minimal designs and a long and lean silhouette inﬂuenced by the ’70s. Great shoeties and booties will work with wide leg pants and longer skirts, while the taller boots work with mid-length or shorter skirts. Which colors and details are you anticipating to be strong? Colored neutrals (bordeaux and clay), still loads of black, patterned me-

Website: www.tcgess.com

ATHLETIC COMFORT GREEN KIDS OUTDOOR STREET

Wicked Idea Eco-friendly wood pulp construction crosses categories. WHEN MATT MAHMET, co-owner of Wicked Hemp, sees a wood chip, he envisions a shoe. The Alton, NH-based company is introducing Wicked Footwear Wood Pulp, a group of eco-friendly men’s footwear crafted with recycled wood uppers—a first in the green category. “The idea is based on an old Chinese technique,” Mahmet explains, which was used for basket weaving. Using nontoxic chemicals, hemlock, pine and spruce, wood chips are compressed into fiber strands and dyed with eco-friendly paint. The final material is fashioned into a tight crisscross woven upper that protects the foot while still allowing air to flow inside the shoe. Mahmet says the process underwent extensive testing to ensure longevity and quality. “These are tough shoes that can compete with any canvas or leather style,” he affirms. Over time, the upper conforms to the foot’s shape and wears like denim with a faded look, he adds. Style wise, Mahmet describes the shoes as a hybrid—shoes that can go from city to country. The two debut styles, a slip-on and lace up in black and brown (suggested retail $72 and $75, respectively), feature removeable insoles that help tone feet and a deep cushion hidden EVA midsole for comfort and support. A multi-colored natural rubber outsole handles urban and light trail use. Women’s hiking styles are still in development for Fall ’11. For now, Mahmet reports that men’s styles are gaining traction with select boutiques and outdoor specialty retailers. Through grassroots marketing, Mahmet and his team are also reaching out to consumers directly to spread the word about the line’s benefits and unique manufacturing process. “Social networking has been essential,” he explains, adding it’s been a good way to tell consumers where they can purchase the shoes. —Angela Velasquez

72 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

Less Is More

Coogi Footwear steps up with streamlined styles for fall. AS A BRAND that earned its fashion reputation in 1969 as a notable knitwear house, Coogi has transitioned with the times and into footwear with a decidely more bold hip-hop aesthetic in recent years. However, Trevor Delmore, vice president of sales for Geoffrey Allen Corporation, licensor of Coogi Footwear, says the strategy behind the Fall ’11 collection is a less-is-more approach. Conscious of consumers still watching their spending as well as retailers that are reluctant to take chances on edgier products in this current economic climate, Delmore describes the latest offerings as clean and classic. “Retailers are still cautious and they are still going with what has worked for them in the past. They are buying quality, fashion-right goods that have a distinct freshness,” Delmore explains. “Consumers want something stylish to buy but at a reasonable price,” he adds. “In order to be successful today, you have to design with these things in mind.” Specifically, Delmore says Coogi’s latest fall collection will feature basic constructions with clean-cut detailing. “We felt that we needed the line to speak about balance and cohesiveness,” he explains. With cues from high-end luxury fashion houses, the line brings forth solid foundations (chukkas and boots) and an earthy color palette of mostly chocolate brown, tan and olive with hints of wine, red, navy, black and gray. “We may go as far as a multi-tone shoe, like a dark brown upper with tan and olive mesh details lined with red,” he explains, but packaged in a simple construction. For men, Delmore says, “We use an array of leathers, nubucks and canvas with mesh call outs.” Top sellers, like the Profile, which Delmore describes as “part old-time Bally, part Miu Miu” returns in lo- and hi-top versions. “For seasons, retailers had tunnel vision for hi-tops, but it’s beginning to diversify,” he explains. Lugged soles are added to casuals for ruggedness. As a trademark of the brand, styles are detailed with polished hardware, ornamentation or embellished with an enamel medallion on the tongue. The women’s line includes classic athletic sneakers—the Michelle, a vulcanized low-cut kick and the Nicole, a leather shoe with a “Chanel flavor” in earth tones, black and purple. The brand is also presenting a collection for dress with 4- to 6-inch wedge heels decked out in colorful overlays, animal prints and sequins. Cozy boots lined with faux fur round out the women’s line. A mid-cut boot and a hi-top with multi-color sweater prints are new additions. Delmore is optimistic about Coogi going forward, reassured by the fact that several current fall styles continue to be reordered. —A.V.

continued from page 24 consumers part with their hard-earned dollars, they have to feel like they are getting the “real McCoy.” And, for many people, this authenticity is something they work hard at portraying. Our brands play into this trait. For example, Rocky is all about instilling confidence. Ruggedness, temperature control, waterproof, durability, surefootedness in any environment—all are important concepts to that consumer. And there are many consumers who would rather purchase fewer, better, products—products that stand the test of time. Rocky has always delivered on this promise. We just conducted a market research project for Rocky last year (Durango and Georgia Boot are on deck) and it affirmed what we suspected all along: Rocky inspires confidence in people. It’s one of the reasons why we just completed a $27-million military contract—about the third largest contract we’ve been awarded in the last seven years. As a result, more consumers are learning about the performance benefits of our brand. We also do about $20 million annually in tactical police and paramilitary boots around the world. Again, it’s product that inspires confidence; being sure-footed is really important to those wearers. We actually got a new Rocky tag line as a result of the study: “Confidence in Action.” Would you say we are now in a recovery mode economically? Yes, we are in a snail-paced recovery. It seems that we’re taking two steps forward and one step back but, overall, we’re moving forward. However, I don’t think the alleged recovery has impacted us positively to date. So those stimulus funds designed to create “shovel-ready” jobs didn’t factor into your sales increases in work boots this year? We really don’t attribute any of our growth last year to shovel-ready

THE MAY EVENT CLASS OF 2011

USRA invites you to enroll in the fun!

Stay on course in footwear retailing!

jobs. We don’t think there were too many of those jobs created. The unemployment needle hasn’t moved much and, in particular, the building trades have been especially hit hard. What we have been doing is affecting the business at the point of sale. We think that we have compelling product—better actually—than our competitors. We’ve got to tell consumers and the retail associates who interact with them why our products are better. We’re spending a lot of resources on trying to make that happen. We’re being very proactive with our better dealers, helping them to create in-store excitement around our products. It’s a combination of well-informed retail associate brand champions and compelling point-of-purchase materials. We also will reward our retailers for being loyal to our brands. Along these lines, we’ll be expanding our successful Rocky Brands University educational program by making the information available to all our dealers. In addition, we plan to hold more actual events for retailers and select consumers. Have consumers really changed since the recession and are these long-term changes? Today, 60 percent of our business is generated from consumers who work with their hands in the building trades or as farmers and ranchers. Footwear to them is equipment, and we are seeing that they are using this equipment a little longer than they used to. And when they do buy new equipment, they want to go back to brands they know well and trust. They want good value. As for this being a long-term trend, I think our consumer has always been conservative—he’s always lived pretty much paycheck to paycheck. If the economy improves, which we think it will slowly, then perhaps his wallet will open a little easier. >75

It’s Back to School at Footwear U! The Wigwam Resort, Phoenix – May 3-5, 2011 You’re invited to enroll in Footwear U at The 18th Annual USRA May Event, May 3-5, 2011. Our “Back-to-School” curriculum will get you back to basics and back to the future of footwear retailing. Learn how to stay at the top of your class! The May Event is the biggest footwear pep rally of the year! Three cheers for your continued success! • Higher Education Keynote “professors,” scholarly panels and Interactive Workshops! • Earn Extra Credit CPEDs earn Continuing Education Points! • Golf Course Our courses include fun! Golf tournament at one of the top-rated gold resorts in the world. • Pep Rallies Party and mingle with new friends and alumni, enjoy “keggers,” group dinners, “rushing”, games and maybe even a toga party! We’re all in a very special fraternity/sorority of footwear retailers! • Score Discounts Many leading footwear brands will offer “alumni” merchandise discounts. Call or email the USRA office for Membership info or a May Event package. Phone: (818) 703-6062

Email: Linda@USRAonline.org www.USRAONLINE.ORG

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ATHLETIC COMFORT GREEN KIDS OUTDOOR STREET

Pleasantly Posh Naot introduces its ﬁrst-ever pump collection.

Dialing it Up Earthies blends comfort with luxe styling and increasingly retailers are hearing the call. OPTIMISM DRIVES EARTHIES’ first fall collection, following its successful launch last spring. “We are on the right track,” says David Aznavorian, vice president of marketing for Waltham, MA-based Earth, Inc. As the fashion-forward sister line of wellness brand Earth, Earthies’ debut collection attracted a high level of initial buzz that was verified by strong sellthroughs. The success validates the brand’s premise of combining legitimate comfort constructions in dressier, stylish silhouettes that allow wearers to look and feel great from day on into the night. An added bonus, Aznavorian says, is how Earthies is opening new retail accounts as well as helping reintroduce the benefits of the Earth brand. “Wellness is here to stay. Retailers are just looking for the right brands,” Aznavorian maintains. For Fall ’11, Earthies embraces a variety of vintage themes. “We love the appeal of aged-leather,” Aznavorian explains. Vintage-looking black and almond leathers are carried throughout the fall’s range of retro wood sole shoes. Silhouettes include a short multi-strap boot and two clogs with hardware details. It’s an aesthetic Aznavorian hasn’t seen executed well in the market, noting rarely are these shoes as wearable as they are fashionable. Along these lines, Aznavorian says women today are shopping with a more “European attitude” when it comes to boots. “It’s not just about a basic boot anymore. Women want fashion boots, and they’ll wear them year-round,” he explains. For Fall ’11, Earthies addresses the category with varying shaft heights. The mid-calf Lintz and tall Minsk boots pair soft leather with fabric and equestrian-inspired brushed metal buckle treatments. The short Montera boot in pleated, traffic-stopping deep red leather features a functional and trendy front zipper. Versatile styles include a mix media granny boot and the Raphaelle, a slouched suede boot with a wedge heel, which is an early hit with retailers, according to Aznavorian. The same blend of comfort and fashion design was applied to dressy and casual platform silhouettes that complete Earthies fall line. “Visible and hidden platforms give the height and balance Earthies’ wearers ask for,” Aznavorian explains, adding it is the premise the brand was established on: designing footwear for women with a high taste level and who want a whole body comfort experience. “We want to be the Mercedes of footwear—with sleekness, precision and comfort.” The Fall ’11 collection retails for $159 to $299. —Angela Velasquez

74 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

CONTINUING TO FORGE the comfort road, Naot, a subsidy of Yaleet Inc., will debut a new line of pumps this June. Coined “Prima Bella,” the collection aims to bring style and comfort together harmoniously. “In these economic times, women want a shoe that can be multi-purpose and that will withstand time,” says Ayelet Lax Levy, Naot’s project manager. “This is the type of shoe that can replace two shoes with one by combining the shoe they wear at work with the shoe they walk to work in.” The line is the result of a collaboration between Naot’s design director, Hagit Ronen, and a leading design professor in Israel. Together, they developed the silhouettes and comfort constructions, which is highlighted by the market’s first-ever pump featuring a removable cork footbed. The option to remove the footbed gives consumers the freedom to slip a slim orthotic into the heel. From there, the duo sourced Italian leathers to up the elegance factor. Stylewise, Prima Bella touts classic Mary Janes as well as a champagne-toned metallic pump with laser-cut teardrop detailing for a little more flash. Due to large initial demand from retailers, Levy notes that Prima Bella will be Naot’s first line available in half sizes. According to Levy, half sizes are a must for ensuring the success of a pump collection. “Retailers have been really excited by the possibilities of this line,” she says. “Many commented that this collection brought their customers a much more refined look that they have been asking for from Naot.” The Prima Bella pumps are set to retail for $190, and some boot styles in the collection are priced at $220. —Meagan Walker

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What has been the biggest change you have seen of late at the retail level? I’m still amazed by the decade-long consolidation in the sporting goods and farm and ranch channels. The expansion of Dick’s Sporting Goods, Bass Pro Shops, Cabela’s and Gander Mountain and Tractor Supply Company has been phenomenal. Despite their growth, the resiliency of some independents proves that there is still a place for single store and small chain operators that offer specialized assortments and enhanced services.

Flashy Fingers Vibram FiveFinger sticks a toe in the casual market waters. FUNKY, PERFORMANCE-BASED Vibram FiveFingers will make its first entrance into the casual market, answering what the company says is an overwhelming retailer and consumer demand for something less aesthetically athletic and more laidback. Initially, four styles will be released: the Trek LS and Bormio for men and the Cervinia for women, as well as a retro unisex sneaker, the Speed. “The fabrics and aesthetics are different, versus the technical features,” says Georgia Shaw, Vibram FiveFingers marketing manager. “What we’re trying to do here is offer something that is extremely comfortable but not necessarily designed for an athletic use.” Adds Tony Post, CEO and president of Vibram USA: “Our primary goal is to provide a safer and healthier alternative for fitness training and running, while changing the way people think about and engage in sport. Our new casual footwear introductions complement this initiative by offering our dedicated consumers more alternatives for all aspects of their daily lives.” Specifically, the men’s Trek LS is made of distressed kangaroo leather and fastens with a casual tie lacing system, rather than the speed lacing commonly featured on FiveFingers performance styles. The shoe has a 4mm, slightly cleated Trek outsole and a 4mm midsole. The Bormio is an ankle-cut boot built on the same Vibram base as the Trek. Side zip closures make pulling the boot on and off easy. Both styles come in black and tan. The women’s Cervinia is the brand’s first cold-weather lifestyle shoe. The calflength boot comes in black and features a cozy knit upper with rubber button detailing. The 5.5 mm EVA sole makes this model as light as it is warm. In addition, strategically placed Vibram TC-1 performance rubber pads add grip and durability to the sole. The Speed model looks like a vintage running sneaker. Aimed at the casual wearers, this shoe has traditional laces and is available in black and white for men and blue and white for women. While optimistic about its foray into the casual market, Shaw says FiveFingers focus is on performance. “Fitness and running remain our key markets,” she says. “But there’s certainly potential for people to add to their collection, or for the non-athletic walker to have something that works perfectly for them.” The line begins at $100 retail for the vintage sneaker and tops out at $160 for the Bormio. —M.W.

How would you describe the current mood of your retail partners? I think our retailers are moving beyond ultra-conservatism and seem to be more open to new ideas. They still want to see that we have done all of our homework and be assured as best they can that the product will sell through before they commit. Overall, I’d describe them as cautiously optimistic. I was a retailer once and you can’t always be a pessimist and run a store. You’d shoot yourself, otherwise. It’s been a long time since you were an actual retailer. Are you still an optimist? I’m very optimistic with what’s going on right now with our company and the opportunity to still retire some day (laughs). The textbooks say that whenever there’s a recession, the spoils for the survivors are increased market share and enhanced margins. I saw a presentation recently where the margin enhancement is generally one to two points. Moreover, our company is in far better shape than it was going into the recession. We have a much better sense of how to run the company and what we are capable of. Where do you see Rocky Brands in three years? Larger yet more agile, competitive, technologically enabled and capable, and, certainly, a great deal more proﬁtable. We will have a much larger global footprint and be sought after by the investment community for our operational excellence and creative branding and product development. Lastly, a company where all of our associates’ career aspirations can be met. What do you love most about your job? It’s always been working with our team and providing that opportunity for growth for our employees. The other aspect that I love is when I’m out of the ofﬁce and I see someone wearing a pair of our shoes. That never gets old. •

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Clicks for Kicks Foot Locker launches Sneakerpedia to satisfy sneaker addicts’ ﬁxation.

Polaroid shots of guests’ shoes at the website’s launch party.

DJ Clark Kent (left) and Bobbito Garcia get the party started.

The Sneakerpedia homepage.

76 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2011

THE MAKING OF what’s to be the world’s largest digital sneaker archive is now underway. Powered by Foot Locker, Sneakerpedia sprung into beta mode on Dec. 8, supplying the most fanatic sneaker lovers with an ever-growing database to search all things sneaker related as well as a forum to upload images of their personal favorites and tell the respective epic stories—like how long the wait in line was—behind those coveted purchases. A limited number of registration codes were doled out to bloggers, collectors and enthusiasts around the world, with the idea that these individuals will initially populate the site with a sizeable number of kicks-ology and lore. When the site goes live this month, Sneakerpedia will open to fans everywhere. Sneakerheads just need to register an e-mail address and log in to start making entries. After that, the simple search engine makes it a cinch for users to look up everything from rare limited-editions to celebrity affiliations to iconic kicks through the years. Users (registered or unregistered) can search by brand, style name, materials, linings, colorways and even the stitching detail on the toe. Like Internet information source Wikipedia, the information entered will be continually updated and build exponentially. A launch party was held in the heart of London’s East End at the Queen of Hoxton to celebrate the debut of what sneaker experts are calling the most comprehensive sneaker library on the planet. Two members of sneaker culture royalty, DJs Bobbito Garcia and Clark Kent, were in attendance. They took turns spinning tunes before the exclusive gathering of bloggers, esteemed collectors and a few lucky fanatics in attendance. “Sneakerpedia is going to be madness!” Garcia says. “I love the idea that anyone can participate, from serious collectors to casual wearers to legendary designers to fitness junkies.” As for the expected passionate debate from purists as to whether Sneakerpedia is really some Big Brother-esque plot by the world’s largest sneaker retailer to capture e-mail addresses and turn the site into a vast money-grabbing sneaker mall, well, we’ll just leave that up to the multitudes of sneaker bloggers and their legions of fans to discuss. But for the conspiracy theorists out there, Foot Locker was unavailable to officially comment on the launch of Sneakerpedia. —Meagan Walker