PARADISE Explore SalzburgerLand SUMMER & WINTER GUIDE
ASK THE FAMILY A special holiday to suit everyone’s tastes
Summer highs
TIME TO RELAX AND ENJOY A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE
Passport to fun
HOW A BARGAIN CARD CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE
City adventure
GET THE BEST OUT OF EUROPE’S CULTURAL CAPTIAL
IN COOPERATION WITH magazine
WONDER WORLD Water falls, caves and gorges
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SNOW TIME
Family fun on the slopes
TAKE A PEAK
The new mountain attraction
06/01/2012 11:27
map
SalzburgerLand Helsinki 1930 km
Stockholm 1640 km
Tallinn 1840 km Moskva 2160 km
Riga 1530 km
London 1250 km
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SalzburgerLand Tourismus Ges.m.b.H. Wiener Bundesstr. 23, A-5300 Hallwang bei Salzburg Web: www.salzburgerland.com ■ Tel: +43 (0) 662 6688-0 ■ Fax: +43 (0) 662 6688-66 ■ Email: info@salzburgerland.com
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CONTENTS
Welcome to Paradise Come and explore the wonders of SalzburgerLand with your complimentary 68-page guide to this fabulous holiday destination. Discover both the delights of the natural world and the sophistication of one of Europe’s cultural capitals. Prepare for winter fun in the snow, or investigate what summer has to offer. SalzburgerLand has something of wonder for everyone!
Contents ■5 A few of our favourite things...
■ 25
lakes & mountains
Salzkammergut • Lakes District • Zell am See
■ 44-48 SALZBURG CITY & CULTURE
Golf Alpin – the largest golf playground in Europe • The Golf Alpin Greenfee Card
UNESCO World Heritage Site • Shopping with style • Residenz State Rooms • Salzburg Museum • Mozart • Mirabell Palace • Hohensalzburg Fortress • Hellbrunn Castle • Advent • Festival
■ 13-14 Spas and wellbeing
■ 29-31 national park
■ 49-53 Food AND DRINK
■ 15-18 HIKING
■ 32-36 NATURAL wonders
■ 6-12
ALPINE SUMMER
Summer huts • Farm Holidays • Family Summer in SalzburgerLand Spas in Gastein, Kaprun and Altenmarkt
The Salzburger Almenweg • The Seven Summits of Saalbach-Hinterglemm • Summer lifts • Spiritual walks • Nordic walking
■ 19
AIRPORT
Flying with style – what to know
■ 20-24 BIKING
Tauern Cycle Path • Mozart Bike Trail • Mountain Biking • Park Life • E-Bikes
■ 26-28 GOLF
Explore one of Europe’s largest national parks World of Ice Giants • Liechtenstein Gorge • Grossglockner Road • Krimml Waterfalls • Alpine Reservoirs, Kaprun
■ 37-39 salzburgerland card How to get the best out of this great-value deal for your family
■ 40-43 THE SOUND OF MUSIC
Hotel Hubertus, Filzmoos • Schloss Fuschl, Lake Fuschl • Hangar-7, Salzburg • Hoagascht, Flachau • Bräustübl Tavern, Mülln
■ 54-55 VIA CULINARIA
A selection of gourmet trips to savour
■ 56-66 Winter Sports
Winter in Paradise with almost 2 dozen ski resorts in SalzburgerLand • Interview with Chemmy Alcott • activities off the piste
Take the tour in the footsteps of the von Trapps
Published by Syon Publishing, 1.17 Q West, Great West Road, Brentford, Middx, TW8 0GP, 020 8332 8410 ■ Printed by Polestar, Colchester, Essex C04 4HT ■ Edited by Joanne O’Brien ■ Designed by Becca Higgins ■ © Syon Publishing 2012 ■ Images throughout, unless otherwise marked: SalzburgerLand Tourist Board and participating partner regions
NEWS
NEWS
TRIPLE TEST
FROM 2012 Ironman 70.3 is coming to SalzburgerLand. The daunting mix of a 1.2mile swim, a 56-mile bike race and a 13.1mile run is one of the fastest-growing triathlon races. The event being held at Zell am SeeKaprun, Bruck, and Piesendorf Maishofen on 26 August 2012 will be part of the World Series.
Home coming
ART ATTACK
THE EXTREME COOL Art on Snow extravaganza has landed a new base. The eclectic mix of paintings, photography, graffiti and much more, all jumbled up around a winter sports theme, is heading for the Gastein Valley. From February 2012 until at least 2015 the villages of Dorfgastein, Bad Hofgastein and Bad Gastein are going to be the home for Art on Snow. For full details of this lively cultural explosion, go to www.artonsnow.com.
World class
THE MOST IMPORTANT event in the mountain bike racing calendar is being held in SalzburgerLand. The UCI Mountain Bike & Trials World Championships will take place in 2012, from 29 August to 9 September. Unlike other UCI events, teams are grouped by nationality. Four disciplines – Downhill, Four Cross, Cross Country and Trials – are passionately fought over. The downhill and four-cross competitions will take place in Leogang from 31 August to 2 September, and the Olympic cross-country, cross-country eliminator and trials specialists will confront each other in the region from 6-9 September. A newly designed cross-country route has been created for the event.
VICTOR LUCAS
STEPHEN MCKAY/ WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
AT LONG LAST the Sound of Music has come home. While tens of thousands of tourists have flocked to Salzburg over the years to follow in the footsteps of the famous von Trapp family, the actual musical had never been performed in its home city. There have been more than 2,000 performances in New York, a few more in London, but until now the glorious Rogers and Hammerstein musical had not reached a Salzburg stage. Now, though, you can see the original show at the Salzburg State Theatre – not to be missed!
WALSERHAUS/ STEFFEN KORNFELD STEFFEN KORNFELD
Three-day card
The ever popular SalzburgerLand Card is now being offered for three days as well as the usual six- or 12-day passes. The card gives you free admission to more than 190 sights and attractions across the region, plus discounts on many others. It also provides a range of free and discounted public transport deals. The three-day pass will cost €38 for adults and €18 for children (6 to 14). The cards are a great deal for families, as the third and any further children are free. The card includes a 24-hour City Pass which gains access to all the major attractions in Salzburg and free city-centre transport.
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the best of
A few of our favourite things... Ice skating winter wonderland Get your skates
on and swap the Christmas rink at Hampton Court to join the locals at Mozartplatz Square in Salzburg’s Altstadt, with a backdrop of baroque churches and palaces in a UNESCO world heritage site. All set off by sparkly Christmas lights and market stands selling punch and mulled wine.
Speciality teas are becoming big news everywhere. Award for best presentation? Hangar 7’s Carpe Diem eatery with its chichi Japanese tea sets and chef-created biscuits.
Ancient and modern
Austrotel Salzburg on Mirabellplatz in a 1653 palace is a family- and business-friendly hotel – and perfect for visiting rock stars with its its eyeopening Rockstar Amadeus exclusive suite with penthouse views.
such a small city, and you get to peer into lots of little interesting shops and gardens and really appreciate the architectural detail.
Amazing views of the Altstadt and the river and
Children always welcome Every museum, every
outing, every activity really is childfriendly. Whether is be winter or summer, whether it it is swishly upmarket or a rustic retreat, children are always welcome!
Being able to walk everywhere because Salzburg is
Schnapps with its clean, clear taste and exquisitely sharp flavourings, from our favourite (blackberry) to the newly-fashionable distillations from beer, championed by top distiller Siegfried Herzog for the Stiegl brewery.
rooftops of Salzburg to the Alps beyond, from the terrace of the stylish Restaurant M32 on top of the Museum of Modern Art at the Mönchsberg mountain. And you don’t have to climb every mountain – take the lift.
Flowers everywhere We
Brits may be brilliant at gardens but when it comes to gorgeous flowering windowboxes, Austrians win.
Mozartkugel sweets in their Traditional dress
Even the young and trendy still wear dirndl skirts and white blouses.ss
Gorgeous accessories at Gössl Great detailing and fabrics from this trad-design house. Scarves and wool-silk wraps you’ll want to wear forever, and stylish, cute bags.
Cycling along the river
The perfect summer pursuit, on a sunny evening, stopping for beers or a picnic on the benches alongside the River Salzach as it winds its way through and out of the city.
Austrian bread… always so
fresh, so pretty, so much to choose from…
distinctive silver and blue packaging are little balls of deliciousness, filled with nougat and marzipan and enrobed in rich, dark chocolate. They caused a sensation when Salzburg sweet-maker Paul Fürst created them in 1890 and won a gold medal at the 1905 world exhibition in Paris. The red and gold ones called Mirabell and produced by Kraft are pretty good too!
High point Perched on the top
of Kitzsteinhorn at 3,000m is this stunning new attraction – Peakworld 3000. Ouside are the awesome views of the Hohe Tauern National Park. Inside, a cinema and fascinating exhibition.
Efficiency at the airport Everything clean, shiny, smiley, with lovely shops and nice food. A traveller’s delight. And it’s only 10 minutes from the city centre.
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alpine summer
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ALPINE SUMMER
A MAN FOR ALL SEASONS
Alpine summer huts are situated in some of the most spectacular locations and really open up Austria’s Alpine world to visitors, providing a beautifully authentic experience in a modern way without sacrificing the environment. Each autumn the Almsommer Hütte awards are decided, with strict criteria, and hill farmer Thomas Mayr at the Steinalm took the top award in 2010
Tom Mayr relaxes in front of his award-winning summer hut
>
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alpine summer
Above, left, rustic decoration at the Steinalm alpine farm; above centre, a typical farm meal and above right, the unusual karst rock formations found on the journey to and from the hut
I
t has to be one of the nicest jobs in the world. Remote, maybe, though as proprietor of the Steinalm alpine farm at Saalfelden, at 1,268m up in the mountains, Tom Mayr does find the world takes the trouble to come to him, even though it’s a hike of nearly an hour (much more if you’re stopping to enjoy the scenery and take pictures). One minute you’re setting off by car from the bustle of Salzburg, negotiating a bit of traffic. and an hour and some 65km later you’re in pure nature. A typically hot, sunny, July afternoon, you leave your vehicle in the small parking area by the painted wooden Steinalm sign, swap city shoes for hiking footwear, smear suncream and pick up a bottle of water and then head up through the forest to the Steinernes Meer. The Steinernes Meer is a high karst plateau in the Northern Limestone Alps – the name means Stony or Rocky Sea, given that the plateau is rocky and flat, and the site belongs partly to Bavaria and partly to Salzburg, on the Austrian side forming part of the Limestone Alps Nature Reserve. Karst is a distinctive topography in which the landscape is largely shaped by the dissolving action of water on carbonate bedrock, in this case limestone, over many thousands of years and leaves a landscape with unusual
features above and below ground, with caves (around 800 have been identified), sinkholes, vertical shafts and disappearing streams and springs. The journey down offers an alternative path for more experienced walkers, slightly hair-raising in places, but with some wonderful examples of the karst rock formations. There’s also the mysteriouslooking 14th century Schloss Lichtenberg, The hike to Steinalm begins in the district of Bürgerau and takes visitors along a nature trail through the forest. Walking at a Nordic pace with poles, you can probably do it in 45 minutes. But why would you, when there are gorgeous butterflies to examine, pretty wild flowers to marvel at, illustrated information boards telling you about the creatures you’re likely to encounter – such as the strikingly coloured Eurasian jay (Garrulus glandarius) or Paris quadrifolia, the typically limestone-based woodland plant romantically nicknamed ‘Lover’s Knot’? The idyllic location, with its breathtaking views, constantly inspires Mayr, who exemplifies the new era of enthusiasts who are passionate about mixing the traditional with the modern and making a business that doesn’t damage nature but works with the environment. He is a man who appears at one with his environment, and it is hard to imagine him in an office in front of a computer. Born in Saalfelden at the dawn of the 1970s, he loves the mountains, and in winter he offers ski touring, cross-country skiing and free riding and also mountain guiding trips, mountain bike and rafting instruction in the summer. He is also a passionate free skier. He lives at the hut from May to October and in summer,
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Make a note!
as well as caring for the cows and the daily running of the mountain hut for the increasing numbers of thirsty and hungry guests, along with a couple of staff, he also finds time to act as an alpine guide. The hut is closed in winter, as it is impossible to get up there in the snow. When Mayr took over eight years ago the hut – which would once have been used for milking the cows – was very run-down. Built in 1869, the date still visible on the roof, the wooden building was originally owned by the church and any food and materials needed had to be laboriously carried up the narrow path by beasts of burden, until 1990 and the installation of a small cable car. A cooperative of 15 local farmers took over the hut in the 1960s and it was used as an Alpine farm with summer cattle. Immediately prior to Mayr’s arrival it had a brief incarnation as a mountain pizza hut. Mayr totally renovated it, documenting the work in a photo album which also includes some stunning photography of the scenery. No mean feat, bearing in mind everything had to be brought up and brought down the mountain. He put in new water pipes, a new kitchen and guest room. There are no overnight facilities for guests – the farm is small and the guest room is for sitting in. It’s very cosy – his talents include professionally building stone fireplaces. And there’s a great, simple menu showing off the fresh produce of the area such as meats, cheeses, breads and vegetables. His aim: ‘I try to come back to the roots, to give people their regional food and products.’ The Steinalm is now extremely popular, with weekends understandably busiest. May and June, August and September are popular with local and Austrian visitors, who
find the sunny but cooler days perfect for walking. It’s the hotter days of July, though, which locals find too much, but when we heat-starved Brits increasingly love to come: there can be few experiences to match a companionable hike with the sun beating down in a strong blue sky, the only sounds the buzzing of insects, trickling of streams and the occasional call of a bird high above in the trees, and the sparkling golds and greens of the flowers and leaves and earthy smell of the damp ground. The farm, says Tom, is completely organic. As well as the cows, the famous Pinzgauers, there are chickens, a cockerel, a goat, cat and a horse. The bread and jam are home-made and he buys cheese from farmers around the area. It’s been hard work, but he enjoys the life. ‘It’s a peaceful, nice place and there’s good contact with people – they are relaxed when they come up here,’ he points out. Somewhat incongruously, the Steinalm is also one of the venues each year for the International Saalfelden Jazz Festival at the close of August (you can check it out online, if you don’t believe it), part of the ‘Alm Concerts’ programme combining contemporary jazz and pristine mountain scenery. What a venue! ■ www.steinalm.at, www.saalfelden-leogang.at Another highly recommended former award-winner is the Königsbergalm at Dienten, again an authentic family-run mountain hut that has been renovated, is easy to reach, with beautiful mountain views and a terrace where visitors can enjoy food from the pastures and farm products. Königsbergalm, Sonnberg 1, A-5652 Dienten am Hochkönig. Tel/Fax: +43 (0) 6461 450, www.hochkoenig.at
There are about 150 certified Alpine summer huts in SalzburgerLand hill country and they must meet specific criteria based on factors such as having animals grazing close by or producing regional specialities of food, for example. Also that the venue meets strict safety and hygiene standards. A recent move has been for them to specialise according to different types of guests: Pram Huts, which are easy to reach via forest paths, even if you’re pushing a buggy; Kids’ huts with petting zoos and play equipment of natural materials, and perhaps a water feature; Mountain Bike Huts reachable by designated mountain bike trails; and Art and Culture Huts, which host events linked to literature, music, theatre or the visual arts. www. almsommer. com
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alpine summer
THE LOVELIEST FARMS
There is no better way to experience the true rhythms of country life in the Alps than spending time on a working farm… The best meal of the day is said to be breakfast. What would be a fantasy breakfast, to set you up for a day in the mountains with healthy air, sun in your hair and perhaps a walk, a swim and relaxing on a deck chair? The taste of fresh milk, warm homebaked bread spread with newly-made butter or jam, eggs however-you-likethem from the henhouse only a few paces away, tasty bacon that hasn’t been vacuum-packed, herby cream cheese..? The saying ‘Breakfast like a king...’ couldn’t be more apt for the healthy feasts provided for guests at farms up and down the province of SalzburgerLand. Yes, you can have a vacation on a working farm in the UK, but the farm holiday experience is down to a fine art in Austria, honed over decades to give visitors not just a healthy break in glorious scenery, but the chance to sample life in an environment far removed from noise, cars, pollution and stress. And for children it’s a traditional experience with the joys of farm animals, collecting eggs, riding a tractor and simply spending sunny days running free in a safe, beautiful environment. Parents can relax whatever the weather – the occasional rainy day simply provides an opportunity
to learn to make bread or join the children to watch how butter and cheese are made at somewhere such as the Bambichl farm in the Lake Fuschl region. Other farms specialise in organics, health and herbs. There are 300 Farm Holidays members in SalzburgerLand, offering 700 beds, all of a certified standard. Ecological and fair-pricing standards make this a fantastic-value, fun way of holidaying responsibly and a perfect example of ‘green tourism’. Putting the goodness back into lives and bodies is taken so seriously here that there are stringent standards to ensure farm holidays don’t disappoint. They’re not pretend farms, but real people’s working homes and livelihoods. Visitors can enjoy watching what goes on, whether it’s gazing on as the farmer sows his fields or as the farmer’s wife tends to the vegetables. You’re more than welcome up onto the tractor, or to help with the harvest. By taking part, you get to feel part of the whole rhythm of life, but it’s entirely up to you. Some farms are particularly good for guests with a special interest or hobby, like the owners – so there are farms geared to cycling holidays (Ortnergut Farm, Eben im Pongau),
others with stables and on-site riding instructors (Hallmooshof Riding Farm in Filzmoos). Travelling with babies and children, especially a combination of both, can be so tiring that many parents need a holiday once they’re home. And there’s nothing worse than arriving at your destination to find you’ve forgotten the bottle-warmer, or that there aren’t enough high chairs, or the place simply isn’t properly childfriendly. A great many Farm Holidays venues are especially geared to babies and small children – not just with the basics, but providing thoughtful extras such as prettily-painted child-pleasing pine furniture, or giant trampolines (with safety nets, of course). Try the Baby & Children Hotel Scharrerhof, near Hollersbach. They’re divided into two, three and four-flower categories, according to their amenities and services, and there’s a free, comprehensive brochure available with photographs and details of all the venues. ■ www.salzburg.farmholidays.com +43 (0) 662 870 571-341
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Family Summer in SalzburgerLand Zell am See-Kaprun
Lake District, Fuschl
This is one of the favourite areas for Brits coming to SalzburgerLand in summer. It has everything from the beautiful blue water of Lake Zell to the summer snow on the high glacier. All the traditional holiday sports such as hiking, sailing, golf and biking are first class and there are new twists such as the Maisiflitzer – an alpine rollercoaster for you to whizz down the mountain on, and the recently opened Tauern Spa (see page 14). Peakworld 3000 opened in 2011 and has a stunning panorama platform and a cinema and gallery inside the mountain. The area has more than 700 places to stay from five-star hotels to private farms. Hang-gliding and paragliding are popular around the peaks of Schmittenhöle (2,000m) and Kitzsteinhorn (3,203m) – which is also the area for the only summer skiing in SalzburgerLand. ■ www.zellamsee-kaprun.com
The jewel in the Salzburg region’s Lake District has to be Lake Fuschl, whose clear, ultra-clean waters and pretty inlets and bays offer ideal swimming and watersports. The main, gently-sloping shingle beach is perfect for families with children, while the Lake Fuschl public lido, Beach Club Fuschlseebad, is not far away and a huge attraction since a major renovation in 2008. There’s a natural beach with lawn and trees, a sandy bay for chidren, giant water slide, children’s pool and a lap pool. Add volleyball courts, a climbing tower, mini golf, tennis courts, beauty therapy and saunas, equipment rental (windsurfing, rowing boats, roller skates) and restaurant, and it may be a struggle to fit in that must-do Salzburg visit. There’s also Hintersee lake. ■ www.fuschlseeregion.com
High roller
Wagrain-Kleinarl Outstanding family resort
A stunning venue for a family summer holiday, with pretty flower-bedecked family homes (not to mention garden gnomes!) and picturesque church set amid a beautiful backdrop, this compact town is small enough to walk everywhere but big enough to offer plenty for families. There’s the spacious all-weather waterpark, with indoor pool with currents, sauna, mother and baby area, huge water slide with light, sound and video effects, a whitewater canal and a turbo slide with top speeds of up to 40km an hour, as well as a restaurant. New are the tennis courts which are open to guests at most hotels, the challenge of the bike park, and some great places to eat. Take the Flying Mozart cable car up the mountain for some great views and then have fun in the childsplay construction site at the top, with junior-sized hard hats. Oversized brightly-coloured plastic armchairs and beanbags make for great sun-lounging for parents. There’s also a special mountain map of children’s attractions, with cooking courses on certain days. Add in good value in the all-inclusive 7-day Wagrain card, from the tourist office, which includes visits to a variety of attractions. ■ www.wagrain-kleinarl.info
Water fun summer
Flachau
Teen high spirits
Adventures and outdoor fun are bywords for summer season in the Flachau mountains, with a huge range of activities which have the emphasis on the ‘active’ – action pursuits such as zorbing, where you roll around in a giant ball, or potholing, high-wire climbing, and – newest and possibly most exciting – the first Alpine rollercoaster in SalzburgerLand. Open all year round, it’s basically a 1,080m two-seater toboggan run on rails which gathers speed to about 40km per hour through the scenic natural surroundings down to the valley, dropping a total of 123m from start to finish. Highlights are the built-in waves, jumps and loops, and at its highest point you’ll be 11m above the ground. Flachau also hosts a wide range of summer events and festivals, including several with live music. Your vacation and activities can be fully planned on the website of the Flachau tourist board. ■ www.flachau.com
Hochkönig Mountain magic
Hochkönig or High King is the apt name for the highest mountain in the Berchtesgaden Alps in SalzburgerLand (2,941m), and the three picturesque family-friendly villages around it are as bustling with activity in summer as in the snowy season. From guided hikes to mountaineering tours with Alpine guides, from local kids’ events to splashing about the pool, a game of tennis and a chance to try your hand at golf, rafting and canyoning, there’s lots on offer. Maria Alm, the largest, with the Steinernes Meer completing the backdrop, also claims the highest church tower in the region at 76m. Gorgeous little Dienten is famous for its flower decorations and Mühlbach is strong on its heritage and folk traditions – Harvest Festival is a huge celebration. ■ www.hoechkoenig.at SalzburgerLand | 11
alpine summer
Radstadt
Radstadt
living history
This medieval town with its historic walls and towers, between Dachstein massif and the Tauern mountains, is perfectly placed both as a summer base for visits and somewhere with plenty going on – a big attraction is the large heated swimming pool on the hillside with a 48m-long water slide, with separate pools for smaller children and sunbathing areas. If you walk or take the scenic drive up to the top of the 1,800m-high Rossbrand, you can see more than 150 alpine summits. Easy excursions are to Liechtenstein Gorge, the great ice caves and the Dachstein glacier, and there’s no shortage of activities in Radstadt with car rallies, children’s festivals, the delicious Dumpling Fest and, in early September, here as elsewhere the golden days of the Harvest Festival with its many traditions and a highly regarded crafts market. ■ www.radstadt.com
Saalbach-Hinterglemm roped in for adventure
These two ski resorts at either end of the Glemm Valley share a major attraction in summer – the Hochseil Park high-ropes course, at 1,300m above sea level, which offers six separate stages depending on how challenged family members are feeling. You can get an idea of what it’s like on YouTube with Matt Carroll’s Hidden Austria (Episode 3), where outdoors sports journalist and film-maker Matt gives it a go. It is also a great area for hiking, with magnificent views along the valley and plenty of mountain huts for refreshments. Not far from the high ropes is a small children’s park with farm animals, and the Devil’s Water (Teufelswasser) theme with pools for splashing, a Kneipp hydrotherapy pool for the grown-ups (knee-deep, freezing, good for the circulation), a fish pond, rock pools, grotto and it’s all free. There’s also the main open-air pool in Saalbach
Hinterglemm, renovated a few years ago. Harvest festival as usual is a great highlight, and an opportunity to see the manufacture of arts and crafts such as felt-slipper making. There’s a whole other level of vacation for sporty adults who feel the high ropes aren’t enough of a challenge – why not tackle the ‘Seven Summits of Saalbach Hinterglemm’ (see page 17), new from summer 2011 – it’s a hiking tour for those who are in good physical condition, sure-footed and experienced mountain hikers and takes in almost 24km of rugged alpine track and ascents over the highest summits of the Glemmtal, at 1,413m in altitude. ■ www.saalbach.com
Sankt Johann-Alpendorf Shopping, spectacular sights and all things spooky The perfect summer-holiday destination for absolutely everyone. The shopper in the family gets a smart town (capital of the Pongau district) with good shopping-centre credentials. A major attraction for even the most ardent shopper is the nearby legendary Liechtensteinklamm (see page 34), the longest and deepest (800m) accessible white-water gorge in the Alps. Perfect for even the most blasé teenager and fast-growing pre-teen, who will probably be intrigued by the new Geisterberg/ Spooky Mountain adventure park with its ghost train and spooky hiking trails – the opening ties in with the Alpendorf cable car times. There are all kinds of children’s programmes and the ‘big playground’ is a great meeting point for visiting younger children, with the mini-train, a big slide, a large jumping mat, petting zoo, boats, karts, a climbing wall, skating… At 800m above sea level, it’s green and pretty hill country, with walking, hiking through the hills, meadows and mountains of Hohe Tauern national park, golfing, swimming, and sightseeing in St Johann, with its stunning Pongauer Dom church. www.sanktjohann.com There are all kinds of summer programmes for children and families at the resorts and there are various hotel packages and offers such as the Joker Card which make entry to attractions free or at reduced prices. Contact the tourist office, check online or with your hotel before you go. There’s also the Family SalzburgerLand card which offers benefits and discounts on attractions and travel and is also for school and youth groups. ■ www.salzburgerlandcard.com
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Spas and wellbeing
wish you were here?
Felsentherme Gastein
Austria has long been renowned for its high level of expertise in the area of wellness and health-focused holidays. SalzburgerLand in particular, with its famous hot springs at picturesque Bad Gastein, is a major destination for skilled pampering with luxurious treatments and stateof-the-art facilities in idyllic, tranquil surroundings. Leading wellness hotels whose levels of excellence are judged outstanding are given the ‘Alpine Wellness’ seal of quality. Here are three of the region’s top health, fitness and wellness venues…
Gastein valley
The town of Bad Gastein is the very, grand, mother of all spa resorts. A 19th-century delight of higgledypiggledy streets with belle époque villas clinging precipitously to the slopes. The hot, radon-loaded waters have been considered a miracle cure since silver miners in the Middle Ages noticed their arthritis fading away while they worked. The Gastein Heilstollen galleries deep inside the mountainous slopes of the valley are considered one of the best therapies for rheumatic and respiratory complaints.
The area is also is one of the coolest ski resorts in Europe, part of the vast 860km ski amadé area Take the glass elevator from street level in Bad Gastein up to Austria’s oldest spa, Felsentherme Gastein (www.felsentherme.com) to enjoy the waters. The spa has wonderful grottoes and an adventure pool for children. Relax in the outdoor thermal bath while soaking up the mountain views and the radon. Lots of luxurious and wonderful treatments and excellent massages also available. The Alpentherme spa (www. alpentherme.com) in Bad Hofgastein is great for children, with lots of slides. ■ www.gastein.com, +43 (0) 6432 3393-0
Bad Gastein
SalzburgerLand | 13
Spas and wellbeing
Tauern Spa, Kaprun
This vast, space-age complex of glass and wood was only opened in 2010 and contains an ultra modern spa and wellness centre. There are 17 treatment rooms providing a mind-boggling array of ways to be pampered or pummelled. Add to that 12 pools, both indoor and outdoor; 13 different saunas offering infusions of herbs, honey and glacier ice (three with swimwear, the rest challenging you to throw off your British reserve); a children’s spa, and a kids’ 124m-long slide with a pirate ship to explore. You can stay here or come as a day visitor, joining hordes of Austrians of all ages, bristling with health on a ‘journey to the inner realms’, as the brochure enthuses. The adjoining four-star hotel is the perfect base to enjoy the spa and explore the area. You can try a whole range of watersports on nearby Lake Zell. There are also two championship golf courses within range. In winter, Zell am See offers 138km of ski runs. And, of course, there is the glorious hiking to enjoy in the Hohe Tauern National Park when the snow melts. ■ www.tauernspakaprun.com, +43 (0) 6547 2040, www.zellamsee-kaprun.com
Tauern Spa Kaprun
Therme Amadé
The latest in family health: Therme Amadé in Altenmarkt One of the newest and most exciting family spas in the region is Therme Amadé in Altenmarkt, near Flachau and Radstadt, one of the most popular wintersports holiday destinations in Europe’s largest ski region, ski amadé. With its mountainous backdrop and beautiful situation in a pretty, wide valley, the new swimming and spa complex reflects that this is a very family-friendly ski area indeed. Opened in October 2010, a joint venture between Altenmarkt and other ski resorts in the area, the building itself is architecturally eye-catching. At 30,000 square metres, the huge health and leisure centre cost €23 million and its facilities are among the best on offer anywhere. A highlight is the full looping water slide, the only one in Austria, with a ‘rocket launch’ and tunnel slide. Then 14 | SalzburgerLand
there are 11 different pools, with two larger ones outside (kept at warmer temperatures throughout the year) which swimmers can reach via a canal from the inside. The ‘Black Hole’ slide is bound to thrill, with a 50m trip through the darkness. Apart from the sports, children’s and the wave pool (the only one in the region), the relaxation pools are enriched with different concentrations of saline, which is increasingly used as a form of therapy, regarded as beneficial for the skin and respiratory system. For fitness there’s a 25m lap pool and daily water aerobics classes in the wave pool, free for all guests. Children’s entertainment includes organised games, races, foam ‘noodles’ to play with, and children’s parties can also be organised. The central restaurant faces the pool.
For wellness there is the sauna suite, with five different types of saunas, and a bar and loungers for relaxing. There’s a steam bath and Jacuzzi for a real all-round spa experience and a therapeutic hammam or Turkish bath, made of Styrian marble, with special black mud treatments. Facials and massages and other therapies are on the menu and full pamper days are also on offer. The venue also offers other courses – such as scuba diving and snorkelling. For more R & R in unrivalled surroundings, the huge sauna area provides panoramic views of the mountains of Altenmarkt and its fellow ski resort of Zauchensee. ■ www.thermeamade.at +43 (0) 6452 20 888
Make a note! The Alpine Wellness seal of quality guarantees a hotel meets extremely high standards. the building and setting must meet the Alpine Character standard and its facilities must excel in at least one of three other areas – ‘pampering’, ‘fitness’ or ‘health’. www. alpinewellness. com
HIKING
Take the trail take your time
&
W
When the snows melt and spring comes to the mountains, you can pack away your ski boots and pull on your hiking boots to explore the Alpine scenery at a more leisurely pace
e hurtle down the slopes in winter, but in summer, on foot, we have time,to really breathe in everything that makes the mountains so wonderful. SalzburgerLand has more than 7,200km of designated and marked hiking trails – many of them highlighted with the red/ white/red Austrian flag colours, while many of the trails have their own signs. Some 30 per cent of the province is protected nature reserves, of which the biggest and most important is the National Park Hohe Tauern – home to ibex, marmot, vulture and eagle. Hiking across colourful alpine meadows and through forests, past mountain tarns and waterfalls, pausing at chapels and trail-side crosses, is what makes summer in the Salzburg hill country such an uplifting experience. From late spring the herdsmen fan out from the valleys to spend the summer on the higher pastures. It’s up here, amid the wild flowers and lush green grass, that SalzburgerLand has evolved its own distinct welcome – in the shape of the many alpine huts that dot the landscape. SalzburgerLand is home to more alpine huts than any other Austrian province. There are some 1,800 of them – and 550 open their doors to hikers, treating their guests to an array of hearty hillcountry favourites – such as fresh milk, cheese, butter, cream cheese, yoghurt, bread, bacon and home-distilled schnapps. Hiking here is a visceral experience. Quite apart from tasting the delicious local food and drink, you spend the days walking through a landscape that seems more colourful and more sharply defined than ‘normal’ countryside. The greens glisten and sparkle, while
if you lift your gaze you’ll mostly be greeted with a stunning backdrop of mountains set against the deepest blue skies. The air is clean, sharp and has that freshness you only get at altitude, and it’s filled with the scent of wild flowers and the hum of insects. Butterflies are everywhere. Enter the forests and woodlands, and you’ll breathe in that dense mossy smell, particularly after a shower of rain. And then there are the bells. The gentle knocking of cowbells is a sure sign that you’re nearing a hill farm or alpine huts, but do watch where you tread, as the cowpats – known as alpine pizzas – are another sure sign of approaching habitation. And you’ll never go thirsty here in the mountains. The water pretty much everywhere, from the bubbling streams to the impossibly blue lakes, is wonderfully pure – and it’s tested annually to ensure that it’s fit to drink. Obviously, you have to do the actual work of hiking, but it’s made as easy as possible, with clear signposting. It’s here that a few words of German would help, as there are many signs telling you about the flora and fauna you can see, and while steps are being taken to extend the use of English, many are still in German only. And if you don’t fancy walking all the way up, more than 50 of the region’s ski lifts remain open during the summer, so you can ride up in comfort and enjoy a stroll at high altitude, before either walking down, or returning via the cable car. Many car-free side valleys are served by reliable public buses and hiking shuttles. Practically every village will have its own selection of trails and treks to follow – just check out the tourist offices, or log on to the region’s local websites – but we’ve picked out a few that showcase the best of SalzburgerLand.
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Hiking
From alpine hut to alpine hut, on the trail of the gentian THE SALZBURGER ALMENWEG Length: 350 km Stages: 31
Difficulty: Mostly easy/moderate
If SalzburgerLand hiking has a flagship trek, this is it. The 350km Salzburger Almenweg connects all 25 communities of the Pongau region, and you can gain access to it from any of these towns. Individual stages are highly suitable for less experienced hikers or families with children. The trail – marked by signs displaying a blue gentian violet – takes in 120 staffed alpine huts, while along the way you’ll enjoy magical sunsets, fabulous scenery and enchanting encounters with chamois and marmots. The peaks of the Bischofsmütze, Dachstein, Tennengebirge and Hochkönig, as well as the 3,000m peaks of the Hohe Tauern, blanketed in ice, are constant companions of hikers along the Almenweg. Ninety per cent of the trail is at especially healthy elevations, ranging from 1,000 to 2,000m. The alpine huts are a real highlight. In every one you’ll find a heartfelt welcome – and some mouthwatering delicacy to try. They all serve a Brettljause, a country platter including cheese, bacon, sausage, butter and bread. Summer in the Hills huts offer homemade or regionally produced items, including local specialties such as Fleischkrapfen, Blattlkrapfen with sauerkraut, Bauernkrapfen, Wetzstein noodles, French toast, blackberry dumplings, cheese noodles, hash, pressed-cheese dumpling soup, cured beef, wild game, pork roasts cooked in a charcoal oven, mushroom dishes, cheese spreads, a wide variety of cheeses, homemade pastries, fresh milk, buttermilk, goat milk, homemade juices such as elderberry, apple and pear and home-distilled schnapps.
Make it personal
If you would like to design your own personalised tour, visit the website www.salzburger-almenweg.at where you will find all 31 stages of the Almenweg, including 3-D views and even aerial photographs. As well as details of the Almenweg’s own theme paths, hikers can also customise their 16 | SalzburgerLand
own tour experience. Simply enter the number of hours you want to walk and how much you can handle in the way of elevation gains, then the automated route planner will take care of the rest. All tour data can be downloaded to all current GPS devices. Furthermore, all stages are also integrated into Google Earth. For junior hikers, there is also information about how to earn the coveted Almenweg hiking pins. Being able to collect hiking stamps is really exciting: complete five stages and you will be awarded the bronze hiking pin, and so on, up to a diamond pin for completing all 31 stages. You can request your stamp passbook from SalzburgerLand Tourist Board, though it is also available at tourist offices in the 25 Almenweg towns and villages.
And for mountain goats
For more experienced walkers, a challenging tour to the top of the Hochkönig leads from the Arthurhaus via the Mitterfeldalm, and on up to the summit. Via the Ochsenkar, Ochsenriedl and Kniebeisser, hikers make their way up along the edge of the Übergossene Alm glacier where, at 2,941m above sea level, they are greeted with vast open views. There is an opportunity to spend the night at the top, and enjoy an amazing sunrise the next morning.
Natural wonder
The hiking path through Flachau is one of the most glorious sections and you can take in a number of the region’s natural wonders. Meditate atop the Hochgründeck, walk along the Peace Path, or learn how these mountains were first created as you hike to the shores of the Rupertisee in Wagrain-Kleinarl. As ski superstar Hermann Maier says: ‘I enjoy the summer in the mountains of my native region, the Flachau. The fantastic scenery of the Pongau and the glorious countryside reenergize me. I highly recommend getting started with a relaxing ride up on the lifts. I hope you enjoy this place I am so proud to call home. Maybe we will see each other out on the trail!’ ■ Further details about these tours can be found online at www.salzburger-almenweg.at.
Fuschlsee – it gives you wings Head east from Salzburg towards the Salzkammergut – Austria’s Lake District – and you’ll first reach Lake Fuschlsee. A popular spa destination since the 19th century, the lake town of Fuschl has another claim to fame besides its scenery and many hotels and B&Bs – it’s the headquarters of energy drink firm Red Bull. Hiking around the lake – 4km long, by1km wide – takes an energetic four hours and offers many stunning vistas of the surrounding mountains. The Fuschlsee is also one of the cleanest bathing lakes in Austria – but be warned, many locals love to skinny dip in its numerous bays! It’s also good enough to drink – but from deeper below the surface, which can be prone to bursts of algae growth. From Fuschl you can try the testing climb to the top of Mount Schober – for stunning views deep into the Salzkammergut – or the easier option up to Mount Filbling, stopping off for a dip (skinny or otherwise) in a picturesque little lake en route, both owned by Red Bull’s multimillionaire founder Didi Mateschitz. Hiding in a quiet side valley is the wild, romantic Hintersee lake – undisturbed by most visitors. Its clear water is fed by the many mountain streams which surround the Hintersee. Fuschlsee offers a range of family-friendly theme hikes, including the Gnome Path, the Fairytale Path and the Hofspur Nature trail, while from Hintersee you can follow the Magical Forest and Water Wonder trails. ■ For further details, see www.fuschlseeregion.com
Hiking
Essential checklist
The magnificent seven
❑ Good shoes/ boots
THE SEVEN SUMMITS OF SAALBACHHINTERGLEMM
❑ Rain gear
❑ Underwear that wicks away sweat ❑ Lightweight trousers
❑ Hiking socks ❑ Hiking boots ❑ Head covering
❑ Sunglasses
❑ Sun cream – high factor!
❑ Rucksack (padded straps, plenty of back ventilation)
❑ First-aid kit ❑ Cereal bar, drinks
❑ Hiking poles ❑ Whistle ❑ Mobile phone
SUMMER highs
There’s nothing more exhausting than trudging up a
mountain in high summer and that’s where SalzburgerLand’s
Length: 23.9km stages: One
difficulty: Hard
Sure-footed and experienced hikers looking for a new challenge can rise to the occasion by tackling this newly marked one-day mountain hike over the highest peaks of the Glemmtal – each marked with a huge cross. There are no rest stops in pretty alpine huts – this is hard-core hiking for the physically fit, so a good preparation is essential. Don’t start this tour lightly; ensure you are well-equipped, with sufficient food and water in your pack, and planning concerning weather or alternative options of descents. The start of The Seven Summits Tour is easily reached from Saalbach by the Schattberg xPress cable car. The wellmarked path leads from Stemmerkogel, before hitting the first high spot of the day with the 2,249m Hochkogel. From this summit there are magnificent views to the south of the Hohe Tauern and to the north of the Alps, a panoramic pattern that is repeated with some breathtaking views along this whole route. After a short descent from Hochkogel, the third peak is the technically more demanding Hoch Saalbach Kogel. Sure-footedness and a head for heights are essential on this stretch. Summit number four is the remote Barensteigkogel, then Manlitzkogel at 2,247m and Mittagskogel, before the final ascent to the hike’s highest point at Geißstein (2,363m). Make sure you have something left in the tank for the difficult descent of the Birgl to the end of the valley at Lindlingalm. All in all, allow about 8.5 hour’s walking time – without a break! ■ Further details: www.saalbach.com/sevensummits
excellent programme of summer lifts saves the day. The lift takes the strain and you can enjoy the downhill walk.
This is the perfect way to explore the mountains whether it be
for families looking for an easy stroll or serious hikers looking for a challenging trek into the high glaciers.
The summr lifts are grouped into eight regions:
• Abtenau – the Kargogel Gondola runs daily through the
summer from dawn to dusk. The round trip costs €9.80 for adults and is free with the SalzburgerLand Card
• Kitzsteinhorn, Kaprun – the lift up to the glacier at 3,029m
runs daily from 8.15am to 4.30pm. Adult’s round-trip fare €22.70
• Leogang – Bike park, alpine slide, water park, summer tubing.
One round-trip free with SalzburgerLand Card, adult return €16
• Maria Alm - includes the Aberg Hinterthal lift and the Aberg Cabin lift. For schedule and price check www.hochkoenig.at
• Rauris – Daily July and August, Sunday/Tuesday/Thursday in
June and September. Free with SalzburgerLand Card plus a free bird of prey show. Adult round-trip €14.
• Saalbach Hinterglemm – includes the Reiterkogel lift, the
Kohlmais lift, the Zwölferkogel lift and the Schattberg xPress
• Wagrain-Kleinarl – the Grafenberg lift (adults €15.50) and the Flying Mozart Gondola which goes to the Wagrain bike park (adults €15.50) both free with SalzburgerLand card
• Zell am See – includes the Schmittenhöhe lift, the Sonnenalm lift, the Sonnkogel lift, the cityXpress and Areir lift.
For further information on the SalzburgerLand Card, see page 37
make a notE
It’s a good idea to carry a whistle with you. In an emergency, blow the whistle six times per minute, taking a one-minute break in between. Continue this pattern until you receive a response of three whistle blasts per minute. In an emergency, your mobile phone can prove very helpful, though you can’t always rely on having reception. You can reach mountain rescue 24 hours a day from anywhere in Austria, by dialling 140 on your phone. (emergency calls can be made without use of a SIM card)
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Hiking
Stick with it…
The peaks of the Gastein valley
Sole to Soul
Throughout the history of the world’s many religions, pilgrimages have been undertaken by the devout to places that hold deep significance for their beliefs. In these hectic modern times, pilgrimages are experiencing a renaissance. But it is not always religious reasons which prompt the journey. It is as frequently a voyage of reflection into the traveller’s own interior, as it is a trek to a shrine or other physical destination. Discovering tranquillity and renewed inner strength is the motivation of many of today’s pilgrims who still, nevertheless, find themselves drawn to the old spiritual paths. In the SalzburgerLand, people have embarked on pilgrimages for centuries. Four different major pilgrimage trails follow historic routes through the region: the Arnoweg, St James’ Way (Jakobsweg), Via Nova and St Rupert’s Pilgrimage Path, leading hikers and pilgrims through beautiful countryside. There are a number of abbeys and ‘Houses of Reflection’ for travellers to rest and pause and take time for inner reflection.
ST JAMES’ WAY
The Jakobsweg, one section of what is probably the most famous pilgrimage trail in Europe – St James’ Way, which leads to its ultimate destination in Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain – makes its way through SalzburgerLand and Southeastern Bavaria. The blue and yellow scallop signs of St James’ Way take you in four stages totalling 100km from Frankenmarkt in Upper Austria to Pass Strub on the border with Tyrol. Along the way, pilgrims cut through the Salzburg Lake District, pass by Maria Plain church and through Salzburg City, before continuing along the banks of the Saalach via Unken and Lofer to Tyrol. The stretch around Salzburg is a lovely landscape of gentle hills, little farmhouses, pretty villages, and lakes. The 192-page guidebook On the St. James’ Way Through Austria can be ordered online from info@SalzburgerLand.com. ■ Further details: www.jakobsweg.com 18 | SalzburgerLand
Hiking in SalzburgerLand, one thing you are sure to notice is the growing number of people who are walking with poles – a technique known as Nordic (SPACE) walking. Nordic walking uses poles to add two major benefits to walking: the upper body muscles are used, as well as the legs, and the poles help to propel the walker along – this means you work harder than usual yet the support given by the poles makes it feel easier! Nordic walking is hugely popular in Austria – there are even magazines aimed solely at Nordic walking enthusiasts. More and more areas are offering Nordic walking as part of their programmes, including the resorts of Flachau, Wagrain, St Johann-Alpendorf and Radstadt. They have special Nordic walking routes and comprehensive programmes for beginners, intermediates and the advanced. ■ For further details on Nordicwalking go to: flachau.com, wagrain-kleinarl.info, sanktjohann.com and radstadt.com
THE ARNOWEG
This circular hiking trail, named after Salzburg’s first archbishop (Arno in 798), takes walkers on a 1,200km, 63-stage journey through SalzburgerLand. Highlights include the famous pilgrimage churches of Maria Kirchental, Maria Alm and St Leonhard bei Tamsweg, along with the stunning Krimml Waterfalls at the western edge of the trail, and the Zittelhaus on the Sonnblick, in the south which, at an elevation of 3,106 metres, marks the highest point of the Arnoweg. The Dürrnberg salt mine and its wooden slides are also a lively diversion en route. Because there are so many places where you can access the trail, hikers are able to set out on a huge variety of one- and multi-day tours. However, along the high stretches of the Krimmler Törl, Granatscharte and Rauriser Sonnblick, glacier equipment (including crampons, ice axe, rope and harness) is essential. ■ Further details: www.salzburgerland.com
With Nordic walking you work harder but it feels easier
What to wear
Hiking in the mountains often demands surefootedness and you must be comfortable with heights. It’s vital to have the right clothing and footwear: choose sturdy shoes/boots with a high ankle and soles that provide good traction, as well as protection against the rain and cold. For shorter walks, casual leisure or sports gear will do – but check the weather forecast and be prepared. In any case, it is advisable to wear something that has high breathability, is wind-resistant and water-repellent. Walking poles are popular, especially where the routes get trickier underfoot. Hiking packs should be comfortable and not too heavy. Extra clothing, a first-aid kit, shades, sun cream, and adequate snacks including drinks are a must in your field pack.
salzburg airport
HIGH FLYING
The dating game In 1926 the Salzburg Municipal Airfield was opened nearly at the same site where the airport stands today, with a wooden terminal and grass landing strip. The current passenger terminal was inaugurated in 1966. 1984 saw the first Air France Concorde landing at the airport.
T
he largest regional airport in Austria takes its name from the first musical son, but W. A. Mozart Airport has come a long way from its beginnings getting on for a century ago. Salzburg Airport, as it’s more commonly known, is a thoroughly modern and busy airport (1.63 million passengers in 2010) and has a new website to match (in both English and German), making for seriously joined-up travel whether you’re flying with babies and buggies, on business or require special treatment, whether your VIP stands for ‘very infirm’or ‘very important’. There are also some clever touches, such as a passenger-pleasing postal returns service for confiscated items such as toiletries that don’t fit regulation size (the returns service is only for travellers flying from and returning to Salzburg, for a small fee). And some fun ones, such as a celebrity photo gallery (the legendary Ringo Starr on a recent visit), a page of airport cartoons, and a fascinating link where you can watch air traffic live over Europe and the rest of the world with Flightradar24. Really handy is a 360-degree interactive tour of the airport. Mobile phone users now have a new web version (again, in English and German) with info such as arrivals
and departures, the weekly timetable, tips for airport access, parking fees, check-in, shops and restaurants. So handy for the city, at just two miles (3.1km) away, Salzburg Airport is also only a mile from the German border and a gateway to some of the best skiing on the continent, including the ski amadé region, the largest network of linked ski resorts in Europe. In 2004 a second terminal was opened, used for passengers in the busy winter season and during the rest of the year the huge space is used as an event location – amadeus terminal 2 finds itself regularly transformed for smart awards dinners and other occasions. Jointly owned by the City (25 per cent) and the State of Salzburg (75 per cent), the airport is an important contributor to the economy, bringing tourist Euros into the area and providing stable jobs. There are well-organised public transport services into the city of Salzburg – take trolleybuses number 2 or 8, both of which arrive every 10 minutes, and you’re at the main station and the inner city in around half an hour or less (you can download a route map from the website). Car drivers have access to just over 1,900 indoor spaces, with another 1,230 in around five minutes drive of the terminals. Inside the airport, there’s a leftluggage service, particularly handy if you want to eat and shop at the
terminal without being weighed down with cases and bags. For those with children, there’s baby changing and a children’s play corner in each terminal. There’s also free wireless Internet service, a post office, bank (open Sundays too), bakery, newsagents and restaurants. A news section on the website regularly updates on new airport developments, and the airport management say their plans are always governed by ‘professionalism and efficiency’. Their motto? ‘Quality before quantity’. ■
Flight connections from the UK to Salzburg
The magical figure of a million passengers annually was reached in 1993. In 1996 the airport adopted the name of its most famous son – W. A. Mozart. Budget carrier Ryanair made Salzburg its very first Austrian destination, in 2001, and was the first lowcost carrier to start flights to the city.
• London Gatwick – British Airways, easyJet, Thomson Airways • London Stansted – Ryanair • Bristol – easyJet • Manchester – Thomson Airways • Birmingham – flybe • Glasgow – BMI • Newcastle – Thomson Airways
Tour operators offering charter
flights include Crystal, First Choice, Inghams, Neilson, Thomas Cook UK, Thomson, Topflight, TUI UK.
Salzburg Airport W. A. Mozart Innsbrucker Bundesstraße 95, 5020 Salzburg – www.salzburg-airport.com, +43 (0) 662 8580-0 SalzburgerLand | 19
Biking
Wheels of freedom
Cycling is all about freedom, about exploring at your own pace and under your own power. And SalzburgerLand is a pedaller’s paradise, with more than 6,000km of well-marked bicycle routes and mountain-bike trails, great events to take part in or watch, and even official e-bike regions, for those who don’t want to work quite as hard!
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Biking
Cycle tours
I
t’s little surprise that SalzburgerLand is one of the world’s most popular cycle touring destinations. It has around 2,000km of dedicated cycle paths, from popular multi-day routes such as the Tauern Cycle Path, Salzkammergut Cycle Path and Mozart Bike Trail, to shorter, more leisurely, family routes that are ideal for a day or half-day excursion. Salzburg City has won the accolade of being Austria’s most cyclist-friendly community. The city and its surrounding towns are part of an exceptional network of bike routes – all of which are clearly marked in both directions with green signs, so getting your bearings couldn’t be easier. And, not having to hunt for a parking space, you will be able to reach the most beautiful places and sights – and generally avoid the busy traffic routes. Throughout the region you will find countless cyclist-friendly hotels, guest houses and inns where you are welcome to spend single nights, with your bike stored securely. Many also have repair facilities. You can also book guided tours and, if you don’t want to bring your own bike, there are many places where you can rent, such as the Old City Rental Centre. With so many great cycle tours to choose from, it’s a good idea to plan your visit. Here are three ‘unmissable’ routes to investigate...
TAUERN CYCLE PATH
Krimml – Bruck – Salzburg – Zell am See/Bruck Distance: 270km
Suits: Lightweight touring or
trekking bikes Starting points for a bike ride in SalzburgerLand don’t come more dramatic than the thunderous Krimml Waterfalls – the highest in central Europe and the fifth highest in the world – with a drop of 380m. Plunging from a mountainside in the Hohe Tauern National Park, the falls themselves attract around 350,000 visitors a year, and it’s worth spending some time to view this impressive natural wonder before getting into the saddle. The Tauern Cycle Path is one of the most delightful in Austria, taking you along the banks of the Salzach and Saalach rivers. Due to the drop in elevation from Krimml (1,076m) to Salzburg (425m), the route is mostly downhill, with only two climbs on central sections of the Salzach river. Most of the route is paved, with about a quarter on a surface covered in fine sand. Around 90 per cent is on dedicated bike paths or low-traffic side roads. And you don’t have to just ride the route – along the way there are many opportunities for diverting
side trips to take in castles, palaces and towns, as well as other natural sights. To help you make the most of such ‘diversions’ don’t forget your SalzburgerLand Card (see page 37). Finding accommodation along the route is also easy. There are more than 60 cycle-friendly hotels, inns and guest houses which offer rooms for one night only, secure bike storage and repairs and, for around €9.50 a piece, will also transport your luggage to your next night’s lodgings!There are a number of organisers running bike tours along the Tauern cycle Path, including Austria Radreisen, Pedalo Tours and Eurobike. You don’t have to start at Krimml, of course – you can join the route at various points along the way, and it also intersects with the Mozart and Salzkammergut Cycle Paths. ■ www.tauernradweg.com
The route
From the Krimml Waterfalls, you skirt the fringes of the Hohe Tauern National Park, cycling along the Salzach to Bruck, where detours beckon to the Alpine Reservoirs, Kaprun and the mighty Grossglockner, and then on towards the reservoirs of the Pongau region’s Salzach power stations. En route,
the wild and romantic Liechtenstein gorge, the world’s biggest ice cave and Hohenwerfen Castle will also lure you into visits. Then it’s on past the beautiful Golling Waterfalls to Hallein, an historic salt-mining town (don’t miss the visit to the salt mine!) and site of ancient Celtic settlements. Continue past Hellbrunn Palace towards the famous Hohensalzburg Fortress, the landmark which towers over Salzburg’s historic old town with its broad squares and winding lanes. The Tauern Cycle Path Loop leaves Salzburg, via the Salzburg Outdoor Museum in Grossgmain, and heads southwest over the border into Bavaria, through Bad Reichenhall, upriver alongside the Saalach, undulating gently to the town of Lofer. Here, a new stage of the path leads to the Saalach Valley natural wonders (Seisenberg gorge and Lamprecht’s cave), before reaching the Zeller Zee and rejoining the Tauern Cycle Path proper along the Salzach river. For the return stretch back to Krimml and the National Park – or to reach the start in the first place, if you are based in Zell am See, you can take the train, the Pinzgau Railway from Zell am See. SalzburgerLand | 21
Biking
MOZART BIKE TRAIL
Salzburg – Laufen/Rosenheim (Bavaria) – Salzburg Distance: 450km
Elevation change: 2,000m
Suits: Touring and trekking bikes
It’s hard to go far in and around the city of Salzburg without seeing places where the city’s most famous son, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, left his mark – and the Mozart Bike Trail links the best of these. As well as the main circuit, which begins in Salzburg and winds its way anti-clockwise through Bavaria, before returning to Austria via the Tyrol, there are three shorter connecting trails which allow you to take several different routes on the trail of between five and 14 days’ duration – tailoring the experience to your personal taste. About 90 per cent of the route is on paved bike paths or relaxed lowtraffic side roads. Most of the route is relatively flat, with the bulk of the climbs and downhills coming in the southern section on the stretch from Inntal to Salzburg.
Mountain biking
The route
We start in Salzburg, appropriately, at the house where Mozart was born. The trail runs past the pilgrimage church of Maria Plain, for which he composed his Mass in F Major, then goes along the old Ischl railway line to Eugendorf. A detour to the ‘Mozart Village’ of St Gilgen is recommended before the bike trail proper wends its way through Salzburg’s Lake District, past Schleedorf – the Open Village, past Mattsee with its abbey and past the Silent Night Chapel in Oberndorf. The Bavarian section of the tour begins at Laufen, linking more Mozart landmarks and some wonderful Lakeland scenery before returning to Austria at Niederndorf. The route hugs the shore at Walchsee, and continues via Waidring, Lofer and Bad Reichenhall, where the composer always concluded the first leg of his Italian journeys. The final stretch takes in Berchtesgaden and past Hellbrun Palace before coming full circle back to Salzburg. In practically all the towns along the trail there is good cycle-friendly accommodation – look out for the signs ’ Radfahrer willkommen’ – cyclists welcome. ■ Further details at www.mozartradweg.com 22 | SalzburgerLand
If you are looking for the perfect terrain for a mountain-bike holiday, then SalzburgerLand is an absolute paradise. With more than 4,000km of cross-border mountain bike trails, families can explore this picturesque Alpine hill country along easy bike routes, while more experienced, thrill-seeking mountain bikers will chalk up countless vertical metres as they explore some of the most beautiful mountain-bike routes in all of the Alps. Hard-core fans will doubtless already have one date in their diary: the 2012 UCI Mountain Bike World Cup in Leogang. The best pro athletes from every corner of the globe will gather at Bikepark Leogang from 29 August to 9 September, competing to be the first
to cross the finish line on the downhill course, or on the four-cross track built especially for the event. www. saalfeldenleogang2012.at Here, the creation of Austria’s first bike park on the Asitz four years ago kicked off the current boom in mountain biking and today the whole Rad & Bike Pinzgau region is one of the hottest spots for mountain bikers. You’ll have 720km of fantastic trails, incorporating some tricky descents and exhilarating downhills. Plus, hours of fun at the Leogang Bike Park. www.bikepark-leogang.com Some of the best of SalzburgerLand’s trails are to be found in Salzburg Sports World surrounding Wagrain -Kleinarl. The village of Wagrain -Kleinarl is located on the threshold of
Biking
Calendar
Out of Bounds Weekend
Includes the famous Dirt Jump Contest, which draws many of the world’s elite freeriders 24 to 27 May 2012, Saalfelden-Leogang www.outofbounds.at
Freeride Festival
Europe’s newest freeride event makes the most of the area’s 400km of mountain-bike trails. Add in a great party atmosphere, and you’ve got yourself a date! 13 to 15 July 2012, Saalbach Hinterglemm www.freeride-festival.com
Bike Infection
A top-flight competition and sports for the masses, plus plenty of live music and parties. Highlights include the Kitzsteinhorn Snow Climb, up to the glacial ice 3 to 4 August 2012, Kaprun www.mountainbike-kaprun.com
Bike Night Flachau
Floodlit cycle race on a 4.5 km circuit with integration of the Hermann Maier World Cup course. Spectacular not only for participants but for spectators. 11-12 August 2012, Flachau www.flachau.com
UCI Mountain Bike & Trial World CHAMpiONSHIP
The 2012 championships will be held over two weekends and the week in between. The downhill, four-cross competitions cross-country, cross-country eliminator, crosscountry Olympic and trials will take place in Saalfelden-Leogang 29 August to 9 September. www.saalfeldenleogang2012.at
world games of mountainbiking Saalbach Hinterglemm 6 to 9 September 2012 www.worldgames.at
this vast biking region, just 67km from Salzburg – and easily accessible from there by car or train. At the Wagrain -Kleinarl Tourist Office you can pick up a detailed cycling and mountainbike map for the entire Salzburg Sports World region with its 600km of mountain bike trails between the Dachstein Massif and the Radstädter Tauern. You can also ask about guided bike tours. Whether you are looking for extreme physical challenges or just want to take things at a laid-back pace, you and your family will be constantly flanked by breathtaking panoramas of the Salzburg Alps. Following perfectly signposted bike trails, you will make your way to Alpine huts, mountain lakes and many
other attractive family highlights. Relaxing valley paths along the Rivers Enns and Salzach add even more colour. With a bit of planning, you will be able to use the cycle paths and mountain-bike trails to discover some of the region’s most beautiful attractions. One unmissable highlight has to be the Wagrain BikePark (see On the trail of a legend, page 24). www.bikewagrain.com Bike Circus in the Pinzgau mountains of Saalbach Hinterglemm is one of the leading mountain bike regions in the Alps. It has 400km of marked mountain bike trails to make everyone from novice to expert, from cross-country fans to freeriders and downhill pros, happy. For bikers who don’t really appreciate major
climbs, it has five cabin lifts, saving your legs more than 4,000m of tiring ascents. There is now direct access to the Tauern Cycle Path, meaning that there is a total of 720km of cycling and mountain bike routes to explore. There are cross-country marathon and half-marathon routes to hone your skills on and you can join daily guided bike tours. Bike Circus also has hospitable mountain huts and what are known as the Bike´n Soul hotels for the perfect bike-friendly accommodation, There is an indoor bike arena with dirts, kickers and a foam pit and specialists provide regular technique training sessions. For much more information including a 3D bike map go to www.bike-circus.at.
SalzburgerLand | 23
Biking
Park life
Salzburg Sports World
• 600km of mountain-bike trails • 400km of bike paths • Tours with elevation changes of as much as 1,480m • 95% of MTB tours along gravel paths and forestry roads • Paved bike paths for families and casual cyclists • MTB and Slopestyle Park in Wagrain • Vacation bike packages
Card sharp An essential ingredient of any holiday in the Wagrain -Kleinarl area is the €42 Wagrain Card which provides: • Unrestricted use of the Wagrain mountain lifts (Flying Mozart and Grafenberg) • Free daily admission to the Amadé WaterWorld • Mini golf • Weekly children’s programme (Mon-Fri) • Guided hikes • Admission to the Waggerl Museum • Walk in the herb garden • Slide show about Wagrain
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Bike Park Wagrain
• Freeride trails and single track • Downhill lines • North Shore trails • Skills Centre – practice makes perfect • Extra-high flow factor • Countless obstacles such as banked curves, tables, drops, moguls, root passages, jumps, rollers, logs, see-saws • Speed and balance stages • Lines for newcomers, experts and pros
E is for E-Bike
There are seven designated Movelo e-bike regions in SalzburgerLand – the most in Austria. Movelos are bicycles that support the normal pedalling motion with a virtually silent electric motor, which makes it possible to tackle tough stages and steep climbs with very little effort. Official e-bike regions in SalzburgerLand include the Hohe Tauern National Park, Zell am See-Kaprun, Saalbach Hinterglemm, Saalfelden Leogang, Flachau, the Salzkammergut Region and Salzburg City. A great family e-bike tour is from Flachau to Altenmarkt to Radstadt and back to Flachau along the Enns bikepath. You can hire e-bikes from both Flachau and Radstadt. Power is stored in lithium-ion batteries and the bikes have a 40km range. E-bikes are a great idea if your family has a mix of abilities – more experienced bikers can enjoy a whole range of top quality routes and exciting challenges and other family members can join them on shorter or more sedate parts of the itinerary on their e-bikes. With so many other holiday options to enjoy, from wellness centres, hiking, rafting and lakes, there is something for all the family. ■ See www. movelo.com, www.flachau.com & www.radstadt.com
On the trail of a legend The largest ski resort in the world is home to the largest and most highly rated mountain bike park in the world. And the person behind that park is also behind the small but perfectly formed and maintained bike park at Wagrain. Canadian Jason Roe, 40, was at Whistler Blackcomb for 12 years, where he was a manager at the leading resort’s ski school and outside the snow season had a mountain bike tour company. He co-founded and managed the Whistler bike park for nearly four years. Then Jason moved to Austria and set up Wagrain. He plans to extend the vertical drop from just over 300m to just under 900m. The Canadian set-up hosts 130,000 bike enthusiasts on its trails between May and October and Roe sees the Austrian park with huge potential as it attracts more each year, from the 6,000 seasonal visitors at present. His wife, Tatiana Holzer, was a member of the Austrian ski team, and he came to Wagrain to be with her. Now they have two children, sons Noah, 6, and Tristan, 4, and live in her parents’ Pension Panorama, which offers special biker-friendly accommodation nearby. A committed biker, his other love is skiing and his other ‘day job’ is as the business director with leading wintersport equipment firm Atomic of Salzburg, responsible for ski boots, protection and accessories. His background combining mechanical engineering and business proves ideally suited to both areas. From the beginning, he says, they tried to model the Wagrain course and business as a smaller version of the Whistler one. ‘You have to make specific trails – you can’t just use a hiking trail. If you do, you are going to fail. You have to have the right formula of trail design and that only comes from experience.’ He means the pitch of the trail, the radius of the turns, the types of features, and always with something new and thrilling. ‘The challenge is when you make a mountainbike park, the guest expects it to be in the same best condition possible each day. A ski resort can bring out the groomer every night so it looks perfect the next morning. Our challenge is to have that high level of maintenance. We try to take care of what we have.’ First thing every morning and last thing at night, tying in with the Flying Mozart gondola hours which take bikers up to the trail’s start in minutes, his affable righthand man Tony Kriesche, 29, walks the whole course, checking everything. ‘We offer a park that everybody can come and ride and get a complete buzz from. There was nothing here before this and we’re very proud of it.’ His ambition for the bike park? ‘To get it to the top and at the same time I would like to earn it the title of being the best bike park in Europe.’
lakes & mountains
The land of lakes and mountains A large number of lakes, rivers and waterfalls are dotted across the Salzburg region in the city of Salzburg and its surroundings, as well as in Salzkammergut and the numerous mountain valleys. The sunshine in summer gives the water a particular sparkle. A refreshing bathing session, a relaxing boat trip at one of the crystal-clear lakes or a walk to one of the waterfalls shows off the Salzburg region in summer at its most beautiful.
Salzkammergut
Overall, Salzkammergut comprises 76 lakes, rivers and brooks distributed across three federal states. Among the most impressive lakes on the Salzburg side is lake Fuschlsee (see page 11), one of the purest bathing lakes in Austria and the Wolfgangsee lake with the resorts of St Gilgen, St Wolfgang and Strobl. You can explore this area by ship along the waterways with the Wolfgangsee Schiffahrt company. Unique views across Salzkammergut can be enjoyed from the Schafbergbahn cable car, Austria’s steepest steam-powered cog railway. Depending on the weather, as many as 13 lakes can be seen from the peak of the Schafberg. ■ www.fuschlseeregion.com
Zell am See – Kaprun
The Zell am See – Kaprun region offers pure mountain air, clear water and Alpine highlands. The best way of observing the mountains and landscapes in comfort from the water is on a panoramic boat trip on the crystal-clear Zeller See lake. From here, unique views of the Kitzsteinhorn mountain can be enjoyed – a real highlight of the Salzburg region with its 3,203m altitude and glacier. The Mooserboden and Wasserfallboden reservoirs (see page 36) are also located in the Kaprunertal valley at around 2,000m between the imposing cliffs of the Hohe Tauern range, making this a very special destination. ■ www.zellamsee-kaprun.com
Above, Lake Fuschl; below left, Zell am See; below right, Lake Wolfgangsee
Salzburg Lake District
The Salzburg lake district is just a 20-minute car drive from the city of Salzburg and offers a wide range of natural treasures. The Wallersee, Mattsee, Grabensee and Obertrumer See lakes, all of drinking water quality, are set beautifully within the gently rolling hills between well-tended meadows and rich woodlands, making this an ideal holiday destination in SalzburgerLand. ■ www.salzburger-seenland.at SalzburgerLand | 25
golf
Golf hits the heights Creatively designed courses alongside beautiful lakes, amid gently rolling hills and with spectacular panoramic views of the breathtaking Alps, Austria is undoubtedly a golfer’s paradise
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golf
G
olf holidays in Austria? Surely all those lakes and mountains just get in the way? Think again. Once voted the world’s best undiscovered golf destination, Austria is now firmly on the global golfing map and offers superb golfing holidays, from short breaks and golf weekends to weeklong packages throughout the summer months.This is the largest golf playground in Europe. There are golf packages for every taste and level – you can choose between hilly and alpine courses, and flat fairways with a view of the alpine surroundings. Here are just a few of the great golfing regions and courses awaiting you in SalzburgerLand… SalzburgerLand | 27
golf
Region: SAALFELDEN LEOGANG
Golfclub Gut Brandlhof, 18 holes, par 72, mid April to late October, www.brandlhof.com A championship course embedded in the fascinating mountain landscape of the Pinzgau region. The 18 holes of GC Brandlhof are located along the Saalach river, which has to be crossed several times. While the course is quite flat and requires not too much physical fitness, it still never fails to challenge players. Golfclub Urslautal, 18-hole, par 71, end of April to mid November, www.golf-urslautal.at Surrounded by an impressive mountain panorama, at a high plateau between Saalfelden and Maria Alm, this is one of the most beautiful championship courses in the Alps. All 18 fairways are very flat. Facilities also include a threehole academy course and one of Austria’s largest driving ranges with 60 tee spots. The golf course is located directly at the four-star Superior Hotel Gut Brandlhof, 5 km from Saalfelden.
Region: RADSTADT
Golfclub Radstadt, 18 holes, par 71, late April to late October, www.radstadtgolf.at The main features are a well-kept 18-hole championship course, a 9-hole compact course and a generously canopied driving range – surrounded by mountain scenery, deep forests and with a medieval city panorama on your doorstep. The unique, exclusive golf-gondola-lift ‘Birdie Jet’ beats any golf buggy hands down.
Region: Salzburg & Fuschlsee & LAKE DISTRICT
Golfclub Waldhof, 9 holes, par 60, Golfclub Salzburg, Romantikcours Schloss Fuschl, 9 holes, par 60 www.golf-alpin.at Surrounded by a unique scenery, the golf courses are located with a view of Fuschlsee Lake and the impressive Alps. The courses require a precise game as well as tactical course management.
CHIP ONTO THE GREEN The Golf Alpin Chip Card gives you the opportunity to choose from among 28 Golf Alpin partner clubs in SalzburgerLand and in Tirol. On top of that, you will find 16 ‘play-only clubs‘ (at these, the Golf Alpin Card can be used but not bought). There are two types of Golf Alpin Card – one for five rounds and one for three. The ideal low-cost version is to book one of the many golf holiday packages offered by Golf Alpin Hotels – such packages often include the uses of spas and other facilities. All packages include one of the cards, and the combination of hotel and Golf Alpin Card is more economical than booking your holidays and buying green fees separately.
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Golfclub Gut Altentann, 18 holes, par 72, www.gutaltentann.com The 18-hole golf course is the first Jack Nicklaus-designed 18-hole golf course in Europe. In the years 1990 to 1992, the “Austrian Open” were played here. Gut Altentann is a joint product of nature and combines international friends of golf in the heart of Europe. Professionals and leisure players appreciate this place just 20 minutes from Salzburg. GC Am Mondsee, 18 holes, par 72, www.golfclubmondsee.at Golfclub Drachenwand, 9 holes, par 68, www.gcdrachenwand.at These two very close golf courses are located in the heart of the Salzkammergut region, between Thalgau and Mondsee. These golf gems offer a panorama, which is unique: a breathtaking view of the Drachenwand mountain, the Salzkammergut region and the lake of Mondsee.
Region: GASTEIN
Golfclub Gastein, 18 holes, par 71, April to November, www.golfclub-gastein.com This is one of the oldest and most traditional golf clubs in Austria. The course lies in the middle of the Hohe Tauern National Park in stunning scenery.
Region: ZELL AM SEE–KAPRUN
Golfclub Zell am See-Kaprun, Schmittenhöhe, 18 holes, par 72, April to October, www.golf-zellamsee.at Greg Norman, the late Seve Ballesteros and Bernhard Langer are among the big-name pros who love playing this wonderful course. The Golfclub Zell am See-Kaprun has the largest and most imressive golf facilities in the Austrian Alps. Embedded in flat, park-like terrain are two immaculate 18-hole championship courses, meaning that even on tournament days, there are almost always free spots for green fee players.
Your Golf Alpin Card benefits (example: card with 5 green fees): • Valid at all Golf Alpin partner clubs and 6 ‘play-only‘ clubs in SalzburgerLand and in Tirol • Total points of the card can be used flexibly, for instance: • 5 rounds on 18-hole courses or • 3 rounds on 18-hole courses plus 4 rounds on 9-hole courses or • 10 rounds on 9- hole courses, ... • Valid also on weekends and public holidays (no surcharge) • Valid from the date of purchase to the end of the subsequent season • From the hotel to the tee in a few minutes or playing different, fascinating golf courses day after day. Golf Alpin offers you top hotels, all of which have committed themselves to the demanding Golf Alpin criteria. ■ Full details of these and many more courses and golfing packages in SalzburgerLand at www.golf-alpin.at
HOHE TAUERN NATIONAL PARK
T
Into the wild
he Hohe Tauern National Park is the high point of SalzburgerLand in every sense of the word. The vast tract of mountainous terrain is Austria’s largest nature reserve and the biggest in Central Europe. It encompasses 300 peaks with heights of over 3,000m and several glaciers – the Pasterze is the longest and most spectacular. Towering over everything is Austria’s highest peak, the 3,797m Grossglockner. The park is considered one of the most successful conservation stories in Europe. Uniquely, it is virtually all on private land and it has combined the economic needs of its inhabitants with the
conservation needs of a beautiful landscape and its fragile ecology since its inception in 1981. With a total area of more than 1,800 square metres, the park covers parts of the three provinces of Carinthia, Tyrol and – the largest section in SalzburgerLand. It is dotted with more than 150 lakes left in the mountain corries after the retreat of the last Ice Age. These, combined with the glacial melt and the annual snow-melt, produce a vast torrent of water which pours down the mountains forming stunning waterfalls such as the Krimml Falls (see page 45). This is one of nature’s grandest playgrounds.
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Hohe Tauern National Park
To help you enjoy the wonders of the National Park there is a network of highly skilled park rangers. They run an amazing array of events, walks and tours across the whole of the park. The walks appeal to everyone, from the very experienced to the complete novice, from the superfit to the young child. Each Monday morning the rangers are available in one of the 13 tourist offices in most of the key villages and towns in the park to give advice and provide details of the courses and walks they have organized. Besides day-long or shorter walks, they arrange longer excursions into the wilds of the park. Every day during the summer something is going on. Go to www.hohetauern.at to get the latest details. Here are two examples of the sort of things provided...
Primeval Forest
This could be a trip back in time – back to the age of the dinosaurs roaming through primeval forests: a landscape of ancient spruce trees and scattered peat bogs crisscrossed with vast fallen logs. An experienced ranger leads small parties into the wild, ancient forests surrounding Rauris. Here you will be introduced to the forces that shape the natural beauty of the national park. The forest is what binds the 30 | SalzburgerLand
park together. It is the building block which has created the environment we appreciate today. It conserves and protects the physical shape of the land. It acts as a buffer against natural hazard such as landslides, rockfalls, avalanches, and floods. It also acts as a vast lung keeping the air pure and filtering the water that flows through it. The ranger will explain how the dynamics of the forest actually work and show how individual trees contribute to
conserving the whole eco-system. The forest is also the habitat for a vast number of animals from tiny insects to large mammals. This ever-threatened mountain environment is key to preserving the balance of nature and the vast park is one of the few places left where such an ancient eco-system can still thrive. With luck the ranger will introduce his walkers to some of the endemic species of the area including butterflies, birds and plants. Who knows what you
may encounter during a walk in the ancient forest – the dinosaurs may be long gone, but there are still some big beasts lurking in the mountains. ■ The two-hour hike is run every Monday from July to September. You can register up until 12 noon on the day of the walk, which leaves in late afternoon. It is considered to be of medium difficulty but children as young as six can join. The cost is €6 for adults
Hohe Tauern National Park
The park rangers have a whole range of skills and specialist knowledge. Here, head falconer Peter Krizan talks about his passion: People have always been fascinated by birds. When we watch them closely we see personalities we recognize from our own lives. I love them and wish – through my job – to show all our visitors the fantastic skills which our birds possess. My aim is to bring you closer to these wonderful and graceful birds of prey. Through daily shows and exhibitions, I try to teach the audience a bit more about the world of the birds. During the show wild birds come to watch our tame birds of prey – I’ve seen golden eagles fly around watching our show! Peter is based at Rauris. www.raurisertal.at
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Birdman
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Left, part of the Krimml Falls, the largest waterfall in Europe; above, head falconer Peter Krizan talks to children and, below, rangers take small groups into the mountains to experience the full wonder of the National Park
and €4 for children under 14. Contact the Rauris tourist office +43 (0) 6544 20022.
Glaciers, geology and gold To understand the mountains you have to understand the geology that formed them. The fundamental forces which created the gigantic mountains towering over the park and the steep ravines cutting through the landscape also formed the delicate and tiny crystal
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formations an experienced eye can discover. They also formed the precious metals such as gold and copper for which man has been seaching the Tauern mountains for thousands of years. What better way to learn about how the natural world evolved than to see the forces in action, to see the impact of geology over time. The ranger will escort small parties up to the glaciers near Rauris and during the course of the hike introduce you to some
of the geological treasures the park is so richly endowed with. ■ The all-day trip is run every Friday from July to September. You can register until the day before the excursion (no later than 4pm). This hike is over difficult terrain, but experienced children over eight can join. The hike leaves in the morning and returns late afternoon. It costs €9 for adults, €6 for children under 14.
Going for gold In the 14th century the area around Rauris accounted for 10 per cent of all the gold mined in the world. For thousands of years people have been searching for gold in the area. In the Middle Ages 130km of tunnels and shafts were dug deep into the Tauern mountains and an industry of global significance was centred on this isolated area sitting 2,000m above sea level with waterpowered engines, mountain forges and a population of more than 3,000 people. Mining ended more than 100 years ago, but today you can still give panning a go at one of three gold-washing bays. Visitors receive expert tuition and then are let loose with their pans – you never know your luck! There is a small charge to enter one of the centres – Bodenhaus, Heimalm and Sportalm – which includes the rental of a pan and shovel. You can, for an extra charge, have expert tuition which is well worth the investment as it includes a guaranteed find (a bag of sand already secreted with a tiny amount of gold). The centres are open from June to September daily from 9.30am to 5pm. Contact: +43 (0) 6544 20022, www.raurisertal.at
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natural wonders
Wonder
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natural wonders
World World of Ice Giants So far 45km of this dramatic ice cave system just south of Salzburg has been explored, revealing stunning galleries and weird ice formations. You wander through narrow passageways burrowing deep into the heart of a glacier. A magical experience. But remember, this is a frozen wonderland and even if it is blazing hot outside it will be distinctly chilly once inside – wear warm clothes!
■ Including cable car it costs €19 adults, €9.50 children (6-15). Open May to November, the last guided tour, which takes 75 minutes, leaves at 15.30. Contact: +43 (0) 6468 5248, www.eisriesenwelt.at
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natural wonders
Liechtenstein Gorge You can’t help but feel you have been transported to Middle Earth in Lord of The Rings as you explore one of the deepest and longest gorges in the Alps. The chasm, 4km from St Johann im Pongau, was gouged out during the last Ice Age and during the 19th century Johann 11, Prince of Liechtenstein, spent a small fortune building the paths and walkways which now make it accessible. Rainbows dance around the trail as it weaves through the 300m slate cliffs – late afternoon is the most spectacular, with the sunlight glowing a strange opal blue. ■ Entrance is €3.50 for adults and €2.20 for children (6-15), free with the SalzburgerLand Card (see page 37) 8am to 6pm, April to October. Contact: +43 (0) 6412 6036, www.liechtensteinklamm.at, www.sanktjohann.com
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© GROHAG
natural wonders
Grossglockner Road Possibly the most impressive drive in Europe, the 48km highway is not only an engineering marvel, but threads through jaw-dropping scenery. ■ Open during daylight hours from April to October, the toll per car is €28, motorbikes €18. Contact: +43 (0) 6546 650, www.grossglockner.at
Krimml Waterfalls
The biggest waterfall in Europe (and fifth largest on the planet) is also one of the most stunning sights in Austria. Tucked into the northwestern fringes of the Hohe Tauern National Park, the falls cascade down from about 3,000m in three giant leaps, with a total drop of 380m. There is a wonderful walk that reveals all their glory and takes an afternoon to complete – the higher you go, the thinner the crowds. Nearby is the Wonder World of Water theme park with loads of hand-on activities. ■ Walk: €2.50 for adults and children (6-15) €0.50. Free with the SalzburgerLand Card (see page 37). Open from mid April to November. Contact: +43 (0) 6564 7212, www.wasserfaelle-krimml.at Theme park: Adults €7, children €3.50 SalzburgerLand | 35
natural wonders
Alpine Reservoirs, Kaprun FROM THE village of Kaprun a bus takes you to the start of the Lärchwand elevator, Europe’s longest diagonal outdoor funicular, which heads up to 1,640m through some of the world’s most stunning scenery. At the top you can catch another bus around both the Wasserfallboden reservoir and the Mooserboden reservoir. Guided tours are available around 36 | SalzburgerLand
the impressive hydropower unit and dams started during the Second World War and completed as part of the Marshall Plan. There is a good educational visitors’ centre. ■ Day trips to the reservoirs are among the most popular outings from Salzburg. Contact: www.zellamsee-kaprun.com, +43 6542 770
happy families
Passport to fun
T
he first thing everyone should buy on arrival in SalzburgerLand is this incredibly useful and excellent-value piece of plastic. The SalzburgerLand Card gives you free admission to nearly 200 sights and attractions, free use of key public transport including mountain lifts, and great discounts and deals on a stack of other great days out. The card, which can be bought at most tourist offices, numerous hotels and on the Web, covers the whole region and is valid for either 12, six or – new from 2012 – three days at a time. Included in the price is a one-day City card that allows you free access to all the major attractions in Salzburg plus free transport and other great discounts. The 12-day card cost €55 (€27.50 for children aged six to
15), the six-day €46 (€23 for children). The three-day pass costs €38 (€18 for children). What makes this an even better deal for families is that the card for the third child, and all additional cards, are free! The Hohe Tauern Card is a useful version if you are not going to explore the city of Salzburg during your holiday, because instead of a 24-hour Salzburg City pass you get free access to the jaw-dropping Grossglockner Road (see page 35) for one day. The toll for access to this high Alpine road is normally €29 per car and the experience is not to be missed – a winding, 48km marvel through some of the most stunning scenery in the world. ■ For a full list of all the attractions covered, go to www.salzburgerlandcard.com SalzburgerLand | 37
HAPPY FAMILIES
Three days of adventure Take one family – mum Sarah, dad Dominic and children Alex, 14, Kathy, 8, and four-year-old Daniel. Add a three-day SalzburgerLand Card and prepare to have fun! Sarah tells us how it went… Day 1: Gastein Valley
This was the day we were going to find out if any of the family didn’t have a head for heights. The location for our test was Europe’s highest suspension footbridge on the Stubnerkogel at 2,300m – stunning views across the Alpine valleys and a 28-metre drop to the mountain floor below. First, a ride to the summit on the Stubnerkogel lift, which is always great fun. Once at the top, we all made it across the footbridge but I must admit my legs were a bit wobbly – the kids weren’t fazed at all, even Daniel. On the other side we could have strolled along a hiking loop and soaked in the amazing Alpine scenery, but instead we decided to stop in at the summit restaurant for a short break and a snack. There, the kids (and Dom) discovered their own version of heaven in the basement, where there was a PlayStation, Internet corner, Wii, table soccer, and even an indoor climbing wall! While they all had a blast, I got to treat myself to some irresistible Austrian coffee and cake. After the ride back down the mountain, we left our car at the lift car park and headed to Felsentherme Bad Gastein (there’s a covered pedestrian walkway over the road). The Felsentherme is a spa resort. Dom and I enjoyed a little peace and quiet and the kids got to have the time of their lives on a great water slide. After indulging ourselves for almost four hours at the Felsentherme, we ended our first day by going bowling at the Eggerwirt. Alex won – again! The owner was really nice, and we all enjoyed the pizza. We couldn’t wait to see what tomorrow would bring!
Day 2: St Johann and Mühlbach am Hochkönig
We’re off to Ghost Mountain in St Johann. And later in the day we plan to cool down in the outdoor adventure pool, or perhaps visit the historic mine in Mühlbach. The gondola lift carried us up Ghost Mountain – the higher you go, the smaller the surrounding villages become. And as we stepped off the gondola, the ghost train was waiting for us just above the lift station. We enjoyed the ride, then walked along the path to Ghost Village, where all kinds of adventures were in store for us. Accompanied by Ghosty and Spooky, we entered the ‘ghostly’ worlds filled with the spirits of earth, fire, water, and air. Daniel loved the delightful characters along Gnome Way, while Kathy discovered the air swings and a fab dragon to climb on. Alex joined other teenagers on a guided nature hike before we all got together to enjoy splashing around
in the excellent Water World. After three hours of fun and games, the kids had finally managed to work off some of their youthful energy, which made it a great time to cool off a bit, so we headed to Mühlbach. While we admired the view of the Hochkönig Massif, the children made a beeline for the outdoor adventure pool. The water slides were their first stop. At the sports pool, Dom and I were finally able to kick back, too, and recharge our batteries with snacks, coffee and cake at the snack bar. Browsing our SalzburgerLand Card guide, Jack noticed that the nearby Johanna Mine in Mühlbach was still open. We headed to the mining museum and took the walking tour led by a former miner. As we explored Europe’s oldest copper mine, the kids got really interested when they could actually see what hard work it must have been for the miners.
Day 3: Salzburg City
On our final day using our cards we were going to explore Salzburg City – the SalzburgerLand Card also includes the 24-hour Salzburg Card – and we had planned out our day very carefully. We left our car at one of the Park&Ride car parks outside of the historical downtown area, and took the O-Bus into the city – a good idea, since parking is scarce and parking garages are expensive. That meant we could relax and enjoy a stress-free (no traffic jams) ride into the city centre. Inner-city transportation is included and we remembered to write the date and time on the card for the day we spent in Salzburg, which made the card valid on the buses. We got off the bus at Mirabellplatz and walked through Mirabell Gardens in the direction of the Staatsbrücke bridge. Personally, I would have loved to have had a look at Mozart‘s home, but the children only had eyes for the ‘Amadeus’, the pride and joy of the Salzburg City River Cruises fleet. So we went to the counter and got our tickets. We chose Tour 2 and took the 11am cruise upriver to the Hellbrunn landing (this tour is offered again at 1pm). Children get special treatment on board – Daniel was dressed up like a pirate and even got to take the helm! He had the biggest grin on his face! The cruise took us to the south of Salzburg and after a short walk we reached the special London double-decker bus, which took us to the trick fountains of Hellbrunn. We all got soaked trying to dodge the fountains – I’m really pleased that I packed some spare clothes in our backpacks. Then we split up – Kathy and I headed for the zoo and Dom took the boys to the Haus der Natur – the natural history musem. Later, after dinner, we took the tired kids on the O-Bus back to our car. What a day! What a series of days! ■
Clockwise from above: the Stubnerkogel footbridge; ; a dragon climbing frame at Ghost Mountain; family fun at Ghost Mountain, Salzburg Zoo; and all aboard a Salzach river cruise
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happy families
Family hotels
There are 24 specially selected hotels across the province that specialize in family stays – both winter and summer. Hotels such as the Salzburgerhof in Dienten – perfect for either a family ski holiday or a summer in the mountains. Special family activities such as tractor rides and climbing are laid on and the family-run hotel is expert at catering for little ones. Whatever you fancy, one of the family hotels will be able to meet your needs – whether it be summer toboggan runs, learning to horse ride or just chilling out around a children-friendly pool. ■ For further advice and a full list of hotels, go to family.salzburgerland.com or phone +43 (0) 662 66880
Top tips Here’s what other card users recommend: Grossglockner Wildlife Park ‘We saved €7 each on admission here and it made a lovely day out. There are animals, birds, a large playground and lots to do. Great fun – we have many fond memories.’ Jane Gold, Edinburgh Bathing at Zell ‘There are three different locations around the lake and you can visit as many times as you want, saving €6.50 each time. The three areas have excellent facilities, with changing booths, children’s playgrounds, snack bars and pedal boats for hire. We used them all the time and saved a packet.’ Jeff Green, Essex Alpentherme Gastein ‘This amazing spa would normally cost €22.50 but is free with the card. The complex includes three slides, outdoor pools, a swimming pool cinema, saunas and steam room,s. After the spa we took the cable car up the mountain for the even more stunning views – normal cost €21.’ Philip Jones, Oxford Leogang Cable Car ‘The card gives you one free ascent and descent of the Asitz, saving €15. At the summit are walking paths, a children’s playground and the best mountain restaurant we have ever visited – the Alte Schmiede. Great food and an indoor waterwheel!’ Polly Oakford, Surrey
THE SOUND OF MUSIC
A TOUR to the Sound of ... 1
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THE SOUND OF MUSIC
The Hollywood film became a phenomenon that has made the city of Salzburg a pilgrimage destination for millions worldwide. Now, with The Sound of Music returning home for the first time in a new musical production, Joanne O’Brien looks at the film sets and the city on a Sound of Music tour
C. 20THC.FOX/EVERETT/REX FEATURES
sound Sight andedral at Mondsee
1. The cath ia and the Baron where Mar film wed in the church where the 2. St Peter’ssww in the graveyard family hide Convent – where 3. Nonnberg a nun Maria wasGardens – where 4. Mirabell the children sing Maria and Do-Re-Mi bus 5. The tour
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nter The Sound of Music into a Google search and you get 128,000,000 results. Astonishing for a 46-year-old Hollywood movie about a nun, set in Second World War Austria with a cast of largely unknowns, and children to boot. Yet such is the appeal of the film worldwide to this day – and it’s growing – that it is one of the major reasons visitors head for Salzburg, only trumped by Mozart and the Salzburg Festival of music. Not bad for a low-budget film with six weeks of location filming, which overran to 11. Each year it is estimated that more than 300,000 visitors head to Salzburg purely because of the film, and around 50,000 of them embark on a Sound of Music tour. Each day, fans and other visitors are to be found gathering by the kiosk along the Rainerstraße between St Andrew’s church and Mirabell Gardens in the centre of Salzburg, for a four-hour extravaganza of singing the songs and seeing the sights so familiar to millions from the 20th Century Fox film which won five Oscars. The tour, one of several on offer in the city and one of the oldest, takes visitors from Mirabell and its 18th century baroque gardens and the Pegasus fountain, where the children run around and sing Do-Re-Mi and afterwards run up the steps to the rose hill, through and out of the city and into the countryside to see the locations which have given Salzburg an unexpected tourism goldmine. Outside the church, on one of the hottest days of the year, I meet New Zealanders Marina and Richard Taylor and Marina’s sister Sarah Paea. Richard, says his wife, ‘didn’t want to come’. The women have come in part as a tribute to their mother, who died recently, and like them loved The Sound of Music. They came last year and, back home, get a regular fix of the film via DVD; pausing it at significant moments to bring up photographs they took of venues on their trip. The coach is air-conditioned and on board are cold beers and soft drinks, including the refreshing Almdudler (‘Alpine yodeller’) the national drink that’s a cross between ginger beer and lemonade. There’s also a coffee and snack stand at the bus departure point, and we’re told we’ll have a stop-off for refreshments during the tour. By the time we depart, the 48-seater coach is full. A cheer goes up when Naomi, our English-speaking tour guide, SalzburgerLand | 41
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THE SOUND OF MUSIC
welcomes us to ‘the one and only Sound of Music tour!’ Naomi, born in the UK but brought up in Austria, brings the history of the city alive as she links it in with the filming in 1965 and the stories associated with the production. As we settle into our seats she informs us that ‘This is a singalong bus!’ and the first of the Richard Rodgers and Oscar Hammerstein II numbers fills the coach – appropriately, as we’re starting at the very beginning, the jolly Do-Re-Mi. As we head through the city, Naomi points out a palepink building (all Austrian buildings are painted prettily, it seems). This is the Marionette theatre, where Julie Andrews’ character Maria and the children in the film learned how to work the puppets for their show to entertain their stern father. Today, the Salzburger Marionettentheater offers performances of The Sound of Music alongside Strauss’s Die Fledermaus and Mozart’s The Magic Flute. Each landmark from the film is marked on our coach trip by its relevant song from the film. For The Lonely Goatherd, we’re instructed in how to yodel. My fellow passengers, a mixture of ages but mostly younger, with couples, groups of friends, babies in buggies and some older children, take a bit of warming up with the singing. Naomi also points out locations that weren’t in the film but involved with the filming, such as the elegant Hotel Bristol, where Christopher Plummer ‘ran up a bar bill that was legendary!’ Other anecdotes include the child actors being bored while the grown-ups are partying and swapping all the shoes left for cleaning outside guests’ doors with those on different floors. In Cathedral Square we note where Maria, the novice nun, boarded her bus for the journey to meet her new employer, the Captain, and the children for whom she’d be governess. The vast yellow-coloured Nonnberg Convent, in Salzburg’s Altstadt or Old City, where Maria in the film and the real-life Maria Augusta von Kutschera were novices, is high on a hill overlooking the river. As with many of the locations, no filming was actually done inside there, but either in a studio on location in Salzburg, or back in the US on the 20th Century Fox lot. As with most films there is a certain amount of poetic licence with the Hollywood story. The gist of the real story was that Baron Georg von Trapp, the Austrian Navy’s most successful submarine commander, married Agathe Whitehead, whose father invented the submarine torpedo, in 1927. They had five children, Agathe died (of rheumatic fever), circumstances prompted a move to Salzburg from the Vienna area and the motherless children were put into the daily care of an inexperienced governess who was finding it hard to fit in as a young novice in the disciplined world of the local convent. The Baron and the governess, Maria, ended up marrying and had two more children. The family took up singing under the guidance of a local priest, started winning competitions, and as The Trapp Family Singers won first prize at the 1935 Salzburg Festival. They used their singing fame to help them emigrate to the US when Hitler annexed Austria. For the film’s purposes, distances are changed and locations are substituted. For example, when the family is crossing the mountains (cue Climb Every Mountain) at the end of the film to go to Switzerland to flee the Nazis, Salzburg’s ‘home’ mountain of Untersberg actually stands in for Switzerland. And they would actually have been going straight into Germany, in real life! On the flanks of the mountain were also filmed the opening scenes of the film to the strains of The Hills are Alive. The eyecatching little Art Nouveau Mozart Bridge or Mozartsteg, across the city’s Salzach River, has the claim to fame of the children walking across it on the way to
their picnic, having stopped to dress in their cut-up flowery curtains, courtesy of Maria and her sewing skills. We head out of the city, passing pretty painted houses with flower-bedecked balconies, and soon arrive at the Leopoldskron Palace, used as the von Trapp villa in the movie. Although the façade facing the lake was used in shots, all the terrace scenes including the memorable moment where the children fell out of the boat and into the lake, were shot in an adjacent property. You can actually stay in the beautiful rococo palace today, with its stunning views over the lake to the mountains. One-time owner of the palace was Max Reinhardt, the founder of the Salzburg festival. There’s a pretty café, and many tourists stop for a stroll along the lakeside and to take photographs. It’s peaceful and romantic, too, and was the setting for two of the film’s main love scenes, in particular the one between eldest daughter Maria and her soldier beau Rolf in the glass gazebo. Originally situated here, only the exterior was used in the film, with the interior shots taken back in Hollywood. The gazebo can now be seen in the beautiful Hellbrunn Palace park, just outside the city. It isn’t open to the public any more as fans of a certain age presented health and safety issues when they tried to dance from one to the other of the benches inside! But you can pose outside for photographs. Here, we also stop to look down the tree-lined avenue where Maria sang I’ve Got Confidence… Further out into the countryside and there’s a timeless quality about the landscape, with its lush green meadows, undulating fields of wild flowers, improbably blue lakes and russet-coloured cows. At the pretty town of Mondsee, we are mesmerized by the stunning Moon Lake of its name, whose usual dark blue or dark green depths are given a milky appearance after a shower, with the chalk from the limestone Alps stirred up by the rain. We stop for coffee and delicious light Esterhazy cakes and the chance to see inside the glorious Collegiate church of St Michael, where Maria
Clockwise from top left: the unicorn statue at the Mirabell Gardens which the children dance around; the Mirabell Gardens; the Summer Riding School where Edelweiss is sung; the Untersberg mountain where they sing Climb Every Mountain; the gazebo in Hellbrunn Palace gardens where Liesl and Rolf sing a duet
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The Sound of Music
A home premiere
and the Baron married in the film (much grander than the church where they wed in the real-life story). We head back to the coach and the dirndl-wearing, irrepressible, governess-like Naomi, who at all times has impressed upon us getting back to the coach on time so that she won’t have to worry about anyone being left behind and interfering with the four-hour packed schedule. On warning us that it’s a long walk back to Salzburg from Mondsee, she asks, smiling: ‘Do you know the difference between a passenger and a pedestrian? Two minutes!’ We head back to Salzburg, admiring the traditional wooden houses and balconies decked out in bright pink and scarlet pelargoniums and typical of the Salzkammergut lakes region. We’re all happily refreshed but quieter now, and the songs are swapped for a Sound of Music documentary on the coach tv screen, with lots of interesting background information about the making of the film, introduced and voiced by the actress who played Liesl. At one point our guide asks if anyone on the coach has never seen The Sound of Music. A farmer from Northern Ireland, whose solicitor girlfriend says she loves the film, puts up his hand. The rest of us are in shock. An Indian family talk about how it’s on television there every year at Diwali. A Canadian family of two generations talk about how it has always been part of their lives. We are a friendly bunch, with a feel-good film in common, and everyone takes the trouble to say goodbye to fellow Sound of Music tourists as we’re dropped off the coach back at Mirabell gardens, after a rousing singalong of The Cuckoo Song and a more poignant So Long, Farewell… Naomi presents each of us with a parting gift of a packet of Edelweiss seeds. I ask one of my fellow passengers, a girl who tells me she’s nine (so born when the film was already more than 30 years old), what she enjoyed most. ‘Everything’, she sighs. I wouldn’t have called myself a fan of the film before this, but now I can’t wait to get the DVD, pause the scenes and compare it with my photos. ■
Make a note Another treat for children not to miss is a matinee at the enchanting Salzburger Marionettentheater which stages wonderful puppet versions of leading operas. Contact: +43 (0) 662 872406, www.marionetten.at Tickets €18 to €35
Sound of Music lovers from around the world will head for Salzburg in autumn 2011 for the premiere of the musical, finally, in its home city. Originally a book, the memoirs of Maria Augusta von Trapp in The Story of the Trapp Family Singers, the first theatrical production was in 1959 on Broadway, with music by Richard Rodgers and the libretto by Oscar Hammerstein II. New York saw around 2,000 performances, London 2,400, and on October 23, 2011 Salzburg, where the Sound of Music is set and where much of it was filmed on location, is finally hosting the production at the city’s Landestheater. Although it did play in Germanspeaking countries in the Germandubbed version called Meine Lieder, Meine Träume (‘My Songs, My Dreams’), the film and the worldwide fuss and excitement it has caused have largely gone unknown and ignored in Austrian popular culture until now. The basic ticket price is €40, but special ticket packages include a guided backstage tour for €65; and, for €100 visitors get the backstage tour, have their photograph taken with the performers, a glass of sparkling wine, a ‘sweet surprise’ and a Sound of Music giveaway. You can even organise a private Sound of Music performance, taking over the entire 680-seat theatre.
■ Bookings on gruppen@ salzburger-landestheater.at ■ Further information about the theatre: www.salzburger-landestheater.at or www.salzburg.info
further information For more info on The Sound of Music, go to: www.salzburg.info or www.SalzburgerLand.com • Salzburg Panorama tours, daily at 9.30am and 2pm, lasting four hours. Email: sightseeing@panoramatours.at www.panoramatours.at Other Sound of Music tours are also available, including the Segway Sound of Music Tour daily at 5pm where participants travel on Segway machines, minimum age 18 to ride the machine (12 to 18s must be accompanied by an adult). Tour includes training and helmets.
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culture
SALZBURG
City of culture
It is hard to believe that Salzburg is such a small and intimate city, when you consider the phenomenal extent of its cultural importance. It is famous as the birthplace of Mozart and it has created one of Europe’s most important arts festivals that is of global significance for opera, classical music, drama and much more. The baroque grandeur of the Residenzplatz is now complemented by some of the finest and most radical of modern architecture. As you wander the cobbled streets of the medieval old town you can suddenly be confronted by demanding, right-up-to-date public sculptures. No wonder that this is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Here is a guide to some of the cultural experiences you can’t afford to miss…
Shopping with style There’s some gorgeous shopping to be had in Salzburg (the perfect preChristmas trip), the artfully created window displays beautifully set off by the often very grand buildings that house them, in particular in the famous shopping streets of Getreidegasse and Judengasse in the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site of the Altstadt or Old City. Salzburg also has the modern and award-winning Europark shopping centre with its 130 stores. Many of the deeply rooted traditions behind the small shops and manufacturers reflect the passion of the owners for continuing quality and include leather goods, custom-made shoes, porcelain, metalwork, chocolate shops, goldsmiths, even the Doll Doctor with antique and reproduction dolls for sale and hospital for sick toys. And here are some of the highest-quality clothing shops you’ll find anywhere in the world. One of the very best is Gössl, selling high-end traditional clothing which Austrians still wear on a daily basis – for women in particular, wearing the pretty dirndl skirt and white blouse has become very on-trend in recent years. Today the company is run by Gerhard Gössl (pictured above),the son of its 1947 founders, from a beautiful saffron-coloured building which today also houses a stylish museum, shop and restaurant, all open to the public. There are also 35 Gössl shops, new collections twice a year, and fans around the world include the renowned designer Vivienne Westwood, singing star Tina Turner, King Juan Carlos of Spain and Arnold Schwarzenegger. ■ Gössl Gwandhaus, Morzger Strasse 31, 5020 Salzburg, www.gwandhaus.com
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Salzburg Residenz Palace
This baroque masterpiece was the centre of power for the province, first for the ruling archbishops and later as the secular seat of government. The lower floors are still used for administration. The upper floors are occupied by opulent state rooms and public galleries. You can see the rather splendid room where Mozart gave his first public performance at the age of six. The art gallery features a very good collection of Dutch and Flemish works including masterpieces by Rembrandt and Rubens. The audio guide takes about 45 minutes. ■ Residenzplatz 1, 5020 Salzburg Contact: +43 (0) 662 8042-2690, www.salzburg-burgen.at Open 10am to 5pm daily, January to December. Final admissions 4.30pm Adults €8.50, children (6-14 years) € 2.70. Free with Salzburg Card.
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culture
Salzburg Museum
This is the benchmark by which you can judge modern museums. Opened in the Neue Residenz palace in 2006, it uses the most up-to-date methods to display historical objects and engage the visitor. It looks gorgeous and delights you as you discover yet another wonder. You start beneath the cobbled courtyard in the carefully lit Kunsthalle, where there are rotating exhibitions of modern art. On the first floor ‘Salzburg Personalities’ focuses on the people who have shaped the city through the ages, including the alchemist Paracelcus and the performer Richard Mayr. Make sure you get your photo taken in a periodstyle portrait that you can email home. The next floor celebrates the city as a source of artistic inspiration over the centuries. Don’t miss the videos made by bemused Asian tourists. Mozartplatz 1, 5020 Salzburg Contact: +43 (0) 662 620808-0, www.salzburgmuseum.at Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 5pm, adults €7, children €3. Free with Salzburg Card – online booking www.salzburg.info
Mozart at home Few people actually warrant the description of genius. But Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, born in Salzburg in 1756, indisputedly does and the city resonates with his incredible drawing power. He was one of the first artistes to be what we now call a celebrity and today that fame is even bigger. The logical place to start is his birthplace in the heart of the historic city centre. It has been a museum since 1880, but recently has been meticulously reorganized into a wonderful gateway into his life and times. There are three main themes: his life as a child prodigy, the staging of his operas, and how his family helped create the enduring myth that surrounds him. The detail is fascinating, from his first violin to the minutiae of his daily life as a travelling superstar. Then you must visit his next home which is also a museum – the Dance Master’s Hall in Makart Square, where he composed much of his mature work and which was the centre of his exuberant social life and is still the venue for intimate concerts. It focuses on his adult life and also looks at his musically gifted sister ‘Nannerl’. Don’t miss the audiovisual show at the end of the tour, called ‘Mozart and Salzburg’. ■ Mozart’s Birthplace Getreidegasse 9 Contact: +43 (0) 662 844313 www.mozarteum.at Daily from 9am to 5.30pm (July & August until 8pm) ■ Mozart’s Residence Makartplatz 8 Contact:+43 (0) 662 874227-40 www.mozarteum.at Daily from 9am to 5.30 (July and August until 8pm) SalzburgerLand | 45
CULTURE
Mirabell Palace
THE SITE OF the present palace was originally used by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich to build a modest mansion for his mistress, who is said to have borne him 15 children. The archbishop arrived in the quiet medieval city of Salzburg in 1587 determined to create a city north of the Alps that would rival Rome in its architectural splendour. He commissioned Italian architects to design a grand cathedral and five squares. It was one of his successors, Archbishop Franz Anton Harrach, who had it rebuilt as a sumptuous royal palace in 1727, which was damaged in a later fire. But it was rebuilt to the plans of Peter Nobile in the early 19th century. Lunchtime
Hohensalzburg Fortress THE FORTRESS, which dominates the city from its perch high on the rocky peak of Festungsberg, was built in the 11th century during the wars between the Holy Roman Empire and the Papacy. It took the shape we now know in the 16th century during renovation by Archchbishop Leonhard von Keutschach. It is easy to spend half a day wandering around the ramparts enjoying the wonderful views across the city’s spires and on to the imposing Alps. This is one of the biggest and best preserved castles in Europe. Highlights include the Golden Hall with its gold-studded ceiling designed to imitate a starry night; the Eiserner
Wehrmann soldier encrusted with 328,000 iron nails, and the extremely creepy torture chamber (it was used as recently as 1893). It is a steep 15-minute walk from the city centre, or a relaxed and speedy ride in the glass Festungsbahn funicular. ■ Contact: +43 (0) 662 8424, www.salzburg-burgen.at Tickets: With funicular, adults €10.50 and children €6. Using footpath, adults €7.40 and children €4.20. Free with Salzburg Card (including funicular). Open 9.30am to 5pm, January to April & October to December; 9am to 7pm, May to September
and evening concerts are a great way to get the atmosphere of the palace. It is surrounded by glorious gardens where the von Trapp children sang the famous Do-Re-Mi around the Pegasus statue. It can get crowded in the middle of the day. ■ Mirabellplatz Contact: +43 (0) 662 80720, www.salzburg.info. The palace is open on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from 8am to 4pm and Fridays 1pm to 4pm. Admission free. The Angel Staircase open daily from 8am to 6pm. The gardens are open all year from 6am to dusk. Orangerie open all year from 9am to 4pm.
Hellbrunn Castle WATCH OUT for the wonderful trick fountains which drench you when you least expect it. The gardens were a wild retreat for fun-loving clerics and the glorious yellow-painted schloss was a place for 17th century rulers to let their hair down. Check out the Neptune Grotto and the Mechanical Theatre. Today’s tourists seem to have as much fun as the naughty prelates. ■ Fürstenweg 37 Contact +43 (0) 662 8203 720, www.hellbrunn.at Open:9am - 5.30pm, May & June, 9am - 10pm, July & Aug Ticket: Adults €8.50, children (6 to 15 years) €3.80.
SHUTTERSTOCK
SHUTTERSTOCK
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culture
Advent Krampus
Advent is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful seasons in the city. The first snowflakes fall, children build snowmen in the Mirabell Gardens and the scent of mulled wine and chestnuts permeates the cobbled streets. It is the most romantic time to explore Salzburg.
Concerts
The Salzburg Advent Concerts held in the Great Festival Hall in front of 40,000 people each year are a traditional telling of the nativity story with 150 singers, musicians and actors. They were founded in 1946 by Tobias Reiser and seem to grow in popularity each year – book your tickets well in advance. Each year there are a number of other concerts and special events including traditional Alpine folk concerts. Candle-lit dinners with a seasonal concert are held in the Fortress Hohensalzburg. Another great venue is the vaulted Romanesque Hall at St Peter’s Monastery, where string quartet recitals can be heard. The hall is specially decorated for Christmas and features classical seasonal music. The programme changes each day and
features internationally renowned musicians. Contact: www.salzburg.info
Christmas markets
The Christmas Market in Domplatz (Cathedral Square) and Residenzplatz is held from the end of November through December and is one of the best in Europe. Others to check out include: • Mirabellplatz Mid Nov to 24 Dec. Daily • Hohensalzburg Castle In castle courtyard on the weekends before Christmas • Hellbrunn Mid Nov to 24 Dec In the palace gardens. Daily
At the beginning of December the streets of the city and most villages and towns in the region are stalked by age-old monsters – Krampus and Perchten. These shaggy, terrifying spirits symbolize Perchta, a pagan Alpine goddess. If you touch them or get swatted, consider yourself fortunate – they are thought to bring good luck. Children run around screaming with delight and grown-ups have an excuse for an early Christmas party.
Silent Night - A song from Salzburg to the world It is no surprise that the city where the much-loved carol Silent Night was written and first performed should have a special connection with this time of year. It was first performed in the chapel in Oberndorf near Salzburg on Christmas Eve in 1818. The lyrics were written by the Salzburg pastor, Joseph Mohr, the music by Franz Xavier Gruber. Mohr was born the third of four illegitimate children and was baptized in the same font in Salzburg Cathedral as Mozart. If you want to continue your Silent Night tour, head to Steingasse, where Mohr grew up with his mother and three siblings. He wrote the poem Silent Night during his tenure as a priest in Mariapfarr. The original text was not discovered until 1996 and is on display at the Salzburg Museum. The carol has become part of the fabric of the city, in fact in March 2011 it was offically declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. UNESCO said the song is ‘an essential contribution to the preservation of cultural diversity and sustainable development’. ■ www.stillenachtland.at SalzburgerLand | 47
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CULTURE
Festivals Salzburg
© HERMANN UND CLÄRCHEN BAUS
THE MAIN FESTIVAL in summer is one of the most important arts festivals in the world and it was started in 1920 to honour the work of Mozart. The city’s artistic genius is still at the heart of the festival but it has since grown to encompass a very wide range of the very best in opera, theatre and music. It was founded by the leading writer Hugo von Hofmannsthal, the composer and conductor Richard Strauss and the theatrical innovator Max Reinhardt. Over the decades it has steadily grown in stature and importance and now hosts nearly 200 different events over 35 days in July and August staged in 14 wonderful venues, many of them open air. Key performances are held in the former court stables converted into two theatres, Makartplatz theatre and Schloss Mirabell. Since its inception the festival has opened with a performance of von Hofmannsthal’s morality play Jedermann (Everyman). For nearly 30 years the outstanding conductor Herbert von Karajan was the festival’s musical director and creative driving force. The city is transformed for the summer with an influx of cultural tourists and most of the performances are sold out months in advance, but it is always worth checking for cancellations. You can see the full programme from November of the previous year on the festival’s excellent website – www.salzburgfestival.at. Prices range from €5 to €250 – the cheapest seats are standing-only. There are discounts for under-26-yearolds and deals when booking more than one event.
Calendar... JANUARY: Mozart Week APRIL: Easter Festival, Saturday before Palm Sunday to Easter Monday – chamber music, opera & concerts MAY: Concerts & opera (25-28 May) JULY: Alternative arts festival – dance, concerts & exhibtions JULY/AUGUST: The Salzburg
Festival. Opera, theatre, readings, chamber music, soloists & concerts (2012, 20 July to 2 September) OCTOBER: Salzburg Culture Days. Opera & concerts NOVEMBER/DECEMBER: Winterfest in the Volksgarten, vaudeville show in a circus tent DECEMBER Christmas markets, Advent concerts & folk concerts
Contact The festival’s website is an excellent place to find out about all the performances as soon as they are annnounced and to book tickets in advance. WEBSITE: www.salzburgfestival.at TICKET OFFICE: +43 (0) 662 8045 500
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FOOD AND DRINK
Food drink
&
With fresh, tasty food and intriguing menus and venues, eating out in and around Salzburg is a pretty and rewarding experience. The region is renowned for the remarkable density of award-winning restaurants – there is a cluster of worldclass chefs in the area, producing some of the most exciting contemporary food
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food and drink
Two of the very best
Hotel Hubertus, Filzmoos & Hotel Obauer, Werfen Johanna Maier has been described as the best female chef in the world. Hard to believe that she found her way into the kitchen almost by chance but then seized the opportunity so strongly that her talents were quickly acknowledged. Today she and her husband, Dietmar, and their three sons attract visitors and foodies from around the world to their gourmet restaurant and family hotel Hubertus in the ski village of Filzmoos half an hour from Salzburg. As well as having been awarded two coveted Michelin stars, Maier, who has celebrity status in Austria and is famous for her feminine version of ‘chef’s whites’ (a white dirndl) is also currently the only Gault Millau four-toque woman chef in the world, with the four toques or chef’s hat symbols being the French guide’s highest honour. She’s also a Relais and Chateaux Grand Chef. Her lauded dishes espouse elements of French, Asian and Austrian cuisine, but for the Radstadt-born chef, taste is all, and she is famed for her unique flavours and light touch. Fresh fish, in particular trout, has become one of her key ingredients – the hotel has two fish ponds and 24 miles of streams in the vicinity. She remembers celebrating their first successful season with her husband at another of Austria’s top restaurants, Restaurant Obauer in neighbouring Werfen, a meal that was a formative experience. The brothers Karl and Rudi Obauer (pictured below with Johanna) concentrate on using seasonal produce from regional vendors with influences from around the globe and since opening their restaurant in 1979 have won numerous awards, including currently two Michelin stars and four toques. Considered by some to have the top restaurant in Austria, and still trend-setters, Maier remembers of her celebratory meal: ‘It awakened my desire to offer fine cuisine of a high standard.’ ■ Hotel Hubertus, Am Dorfplatz 1, A-5532 Filzmoos, +43 (0) 6453 8204, www.hotelhubertus.at, restaurant closed Mondays and Tuesdays, closed annually during April and November ■ Restaurant-Hotel Obauer, A-5450 Werfen, Markt 46 +43 (0) 6468 5212-0, www.obauer.com
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Luxury lakeside hideaway resort Schloss Fuschl restaurant, Lake Fuschl The Fuschlsee area is well known for its crystal-clear lakes, and Lake Fuschl itself is an astonishing, almost unreal turquoise colour. And the unique five-star castle, hotel, resort and spa on a peninsula at its shores has gained a reputation for its exquisite fish dishes – yes, the fish come direct and fresh from the lake’s rich stocks. In this super-kitchen, specially designed by chef de cuisine Thomas Walkensteiner in a shiny colour scheme to match the Austrian flag (red and white), there is a large tank and a fishing net, and staff help themselves as required. Everything at this fairytale environment has to be perfect, from the pink polyanthus roses in the cosseted gardens, to the bespoke shoes in the gorgeous shop, to coloured underfloor lighting in an event area, set to match whatever scheme a particular special occasion requires. Thomas, (pictured, right, at his fish tank) who is also kitchen director and responsible for the cooking at the adjacent sister hotel Sheraton Jagdhof Fuschl, worked for several gourmet restaurants earlier in his career, including renowned venues in Vienna
and Munich and also Osaka and Bangkok. It was these latter experiences that inspired and continue to inspire his cooking, he says. Asian cuisine, with its herbs and its wide variety of flavours, ‘is a philosophy’, says Thomas, originally from western Austria, whose third and latest cookery book focuses on just those aspects. ‘For me, cooking is [about] eating well. It’s about lifestyle, wellness, more of an holistic approach. Asian cuisine for me is the right and correct handling of food.’ The regional/local/seasonal mantra is one he practises, and nothing could be more fresh than the trout, renke (from the salmon family) and Arctic char from Lake Fuschl. He works closely with Gerhard Langmaier, Salzburg fishmaster and responsible for all the lakes in the SalzburgerLand region, who is out every day in the boats.
food and drink
High-flying food Hangar-7, Salzburg
Luigi Captuto/Red Bull Photofiles
Guests can also go out for trips on the lake, with gourmet picnics on board. The Schloss Restaurant includes Austrian specialties, Austrian wines from the castle’s wine cellar and something no other restaurant can rival, views from the legendary lake terrace. There’s even a tea ‘sommelier’. For less stellar food, rather than the more heady experience of the award-winning main restaurant (Thomas won a prestigious Gault Millau Shooting Star of the Year award in 2003), head for the nearby Sheraton Jagdhof Fuschlsee, also with a terrace, and a choice of Austrian or Italian-influenced menus. The hotel, linked with politicians and the rich and famous through the ages, (the castle’s tower was built in 1461), has provided discreet luxury for the likes of Prince Charles, Gene Hackman, Roger Moore, Billy Wilder, Clark Gable and Richard Nixon. It underwent a massive renovation programme from the beginning of this millennium. The rooms, decorated lavishly in a variety of styles according to various epochs, are also hung with museum-quality paintings from the company’s collection of old masters, and guests can even hire from the huge collection of around 200 classic cars and take themselves for a spin. Salzburg is only 15km away, and you can picnic in style in a vintage Rolls-Royce. ■ Schloss Fuschl Resort and Spa, +43 (0) 6229 22530 www.schlossfuschlsalzburg.com
Taking airport food to a whole new level is Hangar-7 at Salzburg Airport. It’s right across from the boarding gate area on the other side of the main airport runway, but a destination in itself that you’ll be reluctant to leave. A vast glass oval whose construction is a marvel in itself, with no visible means of support, it is a shrine to the aeronautical collection of Red Bull founder Dietrich ‘Didi’ Mateschitz, with planes, racing cars and other speed paraphernalia on show, and all open to the public. Also an enormous exhibition space, it houses three eating areas where the food is just as out of the ordinary. Up a long diagonal tube walkway of glass to the apex of the roof is a circular space with seating and tables which serves as a private dining room for VIP clients and can be privately booked. Then there’s a glamorous first-floor restaurant, Ikarus, with kitchens presided over since 2003 by a succession of top visiting chefs. Each month, one of the world’s most distinguished chefs is invited to take charge of the menu to give their interpretation of ‘fusion cuisine with a difference’. The year 2012 sees internationally renowned chefs like Nuno Mendes (Viajante / London), Ryan Clift (Tippling Club / Singapore) Daniel Patterson (COI / San Francisco), Pascal Pardot (L’Astrance / Paris) or Peter Gilmore (Quay / Sydney). The resident team at Hangar-7, under the patronage of Gault Millau ‘Chef of the Century’ award-winner, Salzburg’s own Eckart Witzigmann,
and young hot-shots executive chef Roland Trettl and chef de cuisine Martin Klein, get to capitalize on all that expertise in the month of August each year. The influences and knowledge they’ve absorbed with the visiting supremos, who this year brought with them 21 Michelin stars, are passed on to diners in a culinary adventure around the world. Trettl, who like his staff eschews chef’s whites for all-black outfits topped with Hangar-7 black baseball caps, says his philosophy is that the only tradition by which he is bound is the quality of his creations. He also oversees a second restaurant, the Mayday bar, not at gourmet level but with beautiful and unusual food combinations with a fun set menu, reasonably priced, where you can choose for example ‘Brain Food’ or ‘Beauty Food’ depending upon the ingredients! Popular with locals and visitors in the know, especially before a flight, is the chic but casual eaterie on the ground floor, with views into the airy, light-filled hangar. The Carpe Diem name no doubt reflects the ‘seize the day’ philosophy of the marketingsupremo founder, who still owns around half of the Red Bull company, the name familiar also for sponsoring extreme sports such as motor racing. Don’t even think about eating and drinking during your flight. For breakfast, for example, you should opt for something like a tenderly poached egg atop a gorgeous confection of warm cottage cheese seasoned with herbs; a pretty assortment of breads; or a continental selection which mixes fruit and other items, all stunningly presented on a pretty tiered china cake stand. To drink, there are the new Carpe Diem natural fruit drinks, such as quince, at the other end of the Red Bull energy drink spectrum, in pretty dark-glass bottles. And the extensive drinks menu also includes a selection of specialist teas, served in Japanese–inspired heavy metal teapots on trays, accompanied by something of a sweet and biscuity ‘amuse-bouche’ fresh from the oven. This airport experience definitely reaches new heights. ■ www.hangar-7.com SalzburgerLand | 51
food and drink
A rustic surprise Hoagascht in Flachau
From the outside, in the main street at the busy ski resort of Flachau, this is what it seems – a typical Austrian restaurant with very nice, ‘high-end’ traditional cuisine. But once inside it gradually dawns that we are not at all in a conventional restaurant. For a start, although the surroundings might at first seem rustic, the drinks section in the centre is very sophisticated and hi-tech. In fact, the building started life as a cowshed 248 years ago. Chef and owner Hermann Oberreiter (see above right) found it and spent months renovating and extensively developing the interior into a supremely modern restaurant business. It’s pretty without being kitsch, though there are little touches that stop you in your tracks – like a framed Michael Jackson autograph, personally addressed to the charismatic owner. Tables and chairs are rustic, Hansel and Gretel style, with hearts carved into the wood, and the décor is cream and gold, with long, comfortable cushions on the wooden benches, embroidered with the restaurant’s signature deer motif. Add fresh flowers, candles, alcoves for privacy if required, and laid-back music mixed especially for Hermann by a friend, the latter really setting a relaxed mood and pace for the place. The menu is a mix of traditional Austrian home cooking, Sunday lunch food if you will, with a foodie twist and sometimes with more a proper bow than a nod to Asian cuisine, such as cabbage curry served in a stone pot together with Nishiki rice and prawns. Hermann, 37, originally from the nearby village of Reitsdorf and with a significant cooking pedigree, spent two years honing his skills at a serious
level in South Korea, (Hermann cooked for Michael Jackson for a few days while he stayed here, special sushi alongside the usual Kentucky Fried, and MJ left the autographed note on his bedside table). At 22 he was the youngest chef in Austria to receive a coveted 16 points in the Gault Millau rankings. Dumplings here are delicious and come in various guises, such as potato dumplings made with starch flour or cornmeal, or the cheese dumplings in soup which typically begins a meal in the SalzburgerLand area. A great foil is the white cabbage mixed with little pieces of smoked ham and dressed with oil and vinegar. Why not try the spring rolls with sour cream, gherkins and orange chilli dip or carpaccio of Highland beef marinated with rucola and parmesan chips? Most requested dishes are chanterelles ravioli, Pongauer tomato fish soup and the stunning puddings, such as chocolate Toblerone and nougat. Hermann is hot on his ingredients being organic, regional, top quality and absolutely fresh, so the fish comes from the restaurant’s own ponds a few kilometres away, and the beef comes from his ‘own’ farmer, via his ‘own’ butcher…. And all the carefully chosen wines are Austrian. In recent years, restaurant cooking in Austria, as elsewhere, has undergone various foodie trends and influences, including fusion and Italian-style, but from the late Nineties it has been fashionable for chefs to create and diners to enjoy dishes using traditional Austrian methods and home-grown ingredients. The Schnitzel, for example, made a comeback, and can be found created with chicken, pork and beef, as well as the traditional Viennese breadcrumbed veal dish. Hermann is keen on unusual, more experimental combinations. Asked if he has a particular favourite among London restaurants, he immediately mentions the Fat Duck at Bray in Berkshire. Undoubtedly he is cut from a similar culinary cloth as the UK’s Heston Blumenthal (and with similar haircut and zeal for ploughing a likewise individual furrow). His
vision, he says, after two decades of cooking at top levels, is that ‘the most important thing is the ingredients, that they should be regional and from here and authentic.’ Except for those from the Far East, of course, which would be impossible to source locally. His aim, he says when pressed, is to have everything perfect – ‘the food, kitchen, service, bar….’ And his future plans? ‘I have to keep this quality.’ For diners who fume at not being allowed to smoke indoors any more, there’s a bonus in a special smoking menu here with suggestions such as a cigarillo and a coffee and other ‘smokes’ paired with digestifs such as a malt whisky or selection from the extensive Schnapps menu, capturing perfectly the essence of fruits such as blackberry in a single sharp mouthful. ■ In ski season there’s a free bus shuttle from the city of Salzburg to Flachau in the mornings and returning after lifts close in the evening, check for times. Open 9am – 2pm and 5.30 – 11pm. Hoagascht, Flachau 14, Flachau. +43 (0) 6457 32490 www.hoagascht.at
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FOOD AND DRINK
Prost! A centuries old delight Bräustübl Tavern at Mülln
easier when you know the system. From the silent cobbled sloping street outside you’ll suddenly see the swinging sign up high and a door takes you through into a wide corridor. There is a closed door at the end on the left, with no sounds coming from it and no sign. But turn the handle and push and you’re in a glorious, huge stairway with old statues and a painted fresco of the brewery. Down the stone stairs, turn left – and the place is buzzing, the high ceilings and thick walls adding echoes and a distinct chill. Along one wall is the delicatessen arcade with large, ornate serving hatches, each one selling a different kind of food, with many regional specialities: breads and cakes, cheeses, fish, hot food with noodles, sauerkraut, dumplings, multicoloured salads; hot sausages, ribs and much more. You should also have picked up a tray along the way and everything is served either on paper plates or in paper bags. Portions are not small, but the prices are. If you’re not into beer, you can also get a coffee, tea or a soft drink here, and then head to one of the timeless-looking refectory dining rooms with their dark wooden tables and chairs and stained-glass windows. You can also take your own food along, but the only beer to drink here is the malty house brew. To get your beer, first go to one of the beer counters (there is one inside one outside, under the main stairway to the beer garden). You take a stoneware mug from the shelf and clean it with water from the fountain’s copper spout, then queue at the nearby cashier’s and pay for a half or a litre (a half litre costs €2.80). You’ll get a receipt, which you take to the counter, and your beer is drawn fresh from wooden barrels. The brewery was founded by Augustinian monks in 1621, later handed over to the Benedictine order of monks when the old order died out, but has always kept the name. The beer is still brewed here according to the Purity Law of 1516, without preservatives and using only malt,
water, hops and yeast, and is stored in traditional wooden barrels. Most popular are Märzen beer (malt), ‘Lenten beer’ (from Ash Wednesday to Easter) and ‘Christmas Bock beer’ (from November to December) – both typical kinds of stout. At the souvenir shop (also online) visitors can buy one of the drinking pitchers in various sizes to take home, as well as bottled beer with its distinctive vintage labels and great little antique-looking gizmos for just a few pounds, which attach to your opened but unfinished beer bottle to keep it fresh. Sunny afternoons and early evenings are the best times to go, as well as for special events such as live music evenings and for live football broadcasts. There’s parking for 400 cars and coaches, but you’re probably better served by bus, with half a dozen routes going past the door. Regulars can get a special loyalty deal which includes a taxi voucher! There’s a small play area for children in the beer garden. ■ The Bräustübl Tavern is open every day – Monday to Friday, 3pm to 11pm, Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays from 2.30pm to 11pm sharp. Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülln Lindhofstrasse 7, 5020 Salzburg +43 (0) 662 431246 email: info@augustinerbier.at www.augustinerbier.at
Make a note! Stiegl is Austria’s leading privately owned brewery, located in Salzburg. At its connected Stiegl-Brauwelt (‘World of Brewing’) guests can enter Europe’s largest beer experience with museum, beer tasting, restaurants and more. Bräuhausstrasse 9, 5020 Salzburg, www.stiegl.at +43 (0) 662 8387 1492
(C) STIEGL
THERE’S ONLY one Austrian word you need to know at the Augustiner brewery, one of Salzburg’s funkiest meeting places yet most traditional drinking and eating houses: ‘Prost!’ as you clunk old-fashioned drinking pitchers as jovial monks may have done over the centuries. Take a walk across the pretty Salzach river from Mirabell Palace and park, and head for the Mülln area of the city. Here, on a warm summer’s evening, the tables under the huge horse-chestnut trees in the garden are packed with hundreds of earlyevening drinkers and diners in what must be the archetypal beer garden. There is seating for 1,600 outside (the largest beer garden in Austria), 1,400 in the restaurant and beer hall indoors. The Bräustübl beer, which has been brewed in this former monastery for centuries and is still produced according to traditional methods, is hugely popular. The whole experience, from arrival at the vast building, through the steps you take to actually get your food and drink and to finally sit down, is pretty much the same as it has been for hundreds of years. If you’re a first-timer, it’s a lot
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Via Culinaria
The only way to holiday for food-lovers
Courtesy Magazin
With more than 200 essential stops on the ultimate foodie tour, the Via Culinaria guide is the secret to savouring SalzburgerLand
A
ustrian cuisine is among the most delicious in the world, not to mention extremely healthy. Organic produce here is usually the norm rather than a unique selling point. And all those different kinds of dumplings don’t mean piling on pounds – you can’t fail to notice how Austrian women show off their great figures in their waisthugging traditional dirndls. Across the country, in towns and villages, from sophisticated cities such as Salzburg to the Alpine farms with their traditional methods of making bread, butter and cheese, eating well is part of the quality of life. SalzburgerLand is believed to have the highest concentration of award-winning restaurants in Austria, and many top chefs from other countries who practise their art in the region’s restaurants are also award recipients for their cooking. The badge of seriously good cooking, the Gault Millau ‘toque’, has been awarded more than 100 times to restaurants and other eating venues in SalzburgerLand. You hear chefs talking about how using the very best ingredients is what makes or breaks a great meal, and
A vinothek at one of the many trendy restaurants in Salzburg
the unpolluted pure air, clean waters and rich grass of the region virtually guarantee the high quality of the fresh herbs, fish in tip-top condition, organic vegetables, rich cheeses, superb-quality meats and wild game. SalzburgerLand has the highest concentration of organic cultivation in Europe (more than 50 per cent of farmland). Where a holiday can often delight or dismay with the randomness of choosing where to eat in an unfamiliar location, in SalzburgerLand visitors can eat out with the certainty of a great meal with a holiday itinerary tailored to their particular foodie tastes. A huge hit since its introduction in 2009, the Via Culinaria is a clever, carefully thought-out idea which highlights journeys which combine a holiday with an eating or drinking adventure, linking different types of food and drink producers and eating establishments with scenic routes. There are seven culinary tours, taking in all the tourism areas of the SalzburgerLand region. Before inclusion, each of the 200 or so stops on the foodie map – the number growing each year – is carefully selected by a top Salzburg gourmet journalist. There are routes for fish fans, meateaters, cheese freaks (lots of hill cheeseries), those with a sweet tooth, for beer and schnapps aficionados, and for
If you love... ...food markets, food journalist and author Doris Maier takes visitors on an insiders’ tour of Salzburg markets bringing the history to life and the opportunity to sample as you go. Details from dorismaier @aon.at
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Via Culinaria
hut-lovers in the winter (tasty winter comfort food of pies and cakes with crispy, healthy salads). Unsurprisingly, one of the most popular tours is the Culinary Pathway for Gourmets (‘feinspitze’ means gourmet, a good word to know!) which takes in the best kitchens in the province. There are 18 mouthwatering stops on this journey, including the exclusive luxury lakeside hotel resort of Schloss Fuschl under the renowned Thomas Walkensteiner (see page 50). Another highlight on the gourmet tour is the chance to savour the talents of double Michelin-starred Johanna Maier (see page 50), one of the world’s best female chefs. A choice selection of Salzburg’s top restaurants also includes Ikarus at Hangar-7 (see page 51) and another extremely stylish offering, Magazin, beloved of Salzburg’s trendsetters as an exquisite one-stop café, serious wine bar, trendy restaurant, boutique and delicatessen. An architectural conversation-piece in itself, the building with its modern glass gallery appears hewn from the mountain and the modern cuisine swiftly earned a Michelin star. Some destinations feature on more than one culinary pathway. Schloss Fuschl, for instance, famous for its fish dishes and with access to its own uniquely beautiful lake, is also on the list, for tours for fish lovers. With Austria’s lakes rigorously tested for the pure quality of their water, and as a consequence the fish quality first class, chefs pride themselves on creating new dishes that enhance the delicate flavours and take their fish preparation skills to even higher levels. And freshness? A sneak peek into the kitchens at Schloss Fuschl finds a tank of specially selected fish freshly replenished each day from the lake – the head chef and his staff simply help
themselves with a net, according to the dish. This culinary pathway consists of 11 highlights, including pubs and traditional fisheries, and visitors who take the Fuschlsee tour get a boat trip to the castle’s own fishery and enjoy a smokedfish tasting session on the turquoise lake. Another day-trip route takes you by bike around Wallersee, mixing fishy eats with lake, hotel and nature reserve visits. Meat eaters who probably already know of the world-famous Pinzgau beef will be well satisfied with the 14 addresses on offer on this tour. You can spend time with master butchers, award-winning chefs and regional cooks working with some of the best wild game, mountain lamb, hill-country pork and goat-kid. At the other end of the meal spectrum, pudding lovers get to visit cake heaven, stopping at a variety of beautiful patisseries and ice-cream parlours, including two of Salzburg’s most famously tradition-rich coffee houses, Café Tomaselli and Café Fürst. At Oberhintereggerhof Farm in Faistenau everyone can bake their own organic bread, make cheese and learn how honey is made. Another treat in the guide is Berger Feinste Confiserie, in Lofer. This is chocolate craftsmanship of the highest order (www.confiserie-berger.at). And the beer and schnapps tour is sure to delight everyone, highlights including a visit to the atmospheric brewery and former abbey in Salzburg, Augustiner Bräu (see page 53); and a memorable sampling of some of the best schnapps on the planet, courtesy of multi-award-winning Schnapps Distiller of the Year Siegfried Herzog, including the legendary rowan berry, raspberry, blood-orange, carrot, sour cherry and blueberry varieties. ■
Full guide The Via Culinaria includes 184 destinations, possible spin-off excursions, attractions, holiday packages and also background and contact listings. Full details can be found at www. via-culinaria. com
Master chef
Eckart Witzigmann was awarded ‘Chef of the Century’ in 1994 by the highly prestigous French restaurant guide Gault Millau. Only three other chefs – Paul Bocuse, Joel Robuchon and Frédi Girardet – have ever received the honour. Eckart was born 1941 and raised in Bad Gastein in SalzburgerLand. He has worked with the best in the world: Paul Bocuse, Paul Simon, Roger Verge, the Troisgros brothers, and Paul Haeberlin. Besides his time in France he gained international experience in Operakällaren in Stockholm, Cafe Royal in London, Villa Lorraine in Brussels and the Jockey Club in Washington DC. He is supporting thr Via Culinaria project.
The Alpine pastures produce rich milk...
...and some of the finest cheeses
Chocolate of the highest standards
Fine fish from fresh lakes SalzburgerLand | 55
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Obertauern: anyone who thought it necessary to cross the Atlantic to find topquality powder will soon find out that they were wrong – dry ice crystals create a perfect day of skiing for winter sports fans and freeriders in Obertauern from the end of November until the beginning of May 56 | SalzburgerLand
winter sports
WINTER In
PARADISE Most Austrians ski from a young age – they’d be mad not to, with great snow and an abundance of mountains and tree-lined runs. Add in pretty traditional villages, with mountain huts for great food, plus ski schools which regularly produce world champions, and there’s only one dilemma: where do you choose? Austria has more than 100 ski regions and SalzburgerLand offers almost two dozen of those…
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o b e rta ue r n
Fab for après ski
If you’re a skier, or boarder, a Beatles fan and keen on great après ski, Obertauern must be top of the list. This long-standing winter sports resort featured in the 1965 film Help! and hotelier Gerhard Krings was one of the four young local ski instructors asked to double up for the Liverpool lads in the ski scenes. Over the years he has built up a fantastic collection of Beatles memorabilia and created a huge, stylish and very cosy Beatles Bar in the lovely 4-star Hotel Seekarhaus, his family-run hotel at the resort. This is a purely winter destination, 58 | SalzburgerLand
with 100km of slopes created by the unique mountain massif that surrounds Obertauern. Most hotels, like the Seekarhaus, are right next to the slopes. Skiing is top of the list here (26 lifts, rarely big queues), followed by snowboarding. Because of the snow bowl, it’s possible to ski the circular route, the Tauern round, which runs clockwise and counterclockwise, with ski bridges to cross the main road. The quality of the snow is exceptional and many compare the resort to the delights you normally find on the other side of the Atlantic. Most
of the slopes (60 per cent) are easy blues, a third reds and the four per cent that comprises blacks include the Gamsleiten II, one of the steepest slopes in the Alps at 45 degrees. Also on offer is a sports centre, a large vitality centre with sports medical mentoring (Hermann Maier used to train here between races) and children’s snow-and-play centre with qualified nursery staff so parents can hit the powder worry-free. In the evenings, there’s a trendy mix of pubs, clubs and discos, with DJs from all over Europe. Sooner or later,
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Right start
Hoc h könig
most visitors find their way to the Beatles Bar, where Herr Krings, father of 2005 World Cup snowboarding winner Doresia, is happy to tell how he hung out with George Harrison, his ‘double’, playing guitar (see black and white photo below – Gerhard pictured on the right, next to George Harrison, second right.) After 46 years, by now aged 73, he met up again with one of the Beatles, in summer 2011, when Ringo and his wife Barbara Bach (whose own family was originally from Austria) visited Salzburg and invited Gerhard and his wife Thea to a concert in the city. Why Obertauern for the 14 days of filming? ‘They were looking for a resort in mid-March where there was still enough snow and people skiing around’, Gerhard remembers. ‘We liked it very much – it was great fun! We were very good friends together and they came to visit me in the bar I managed in the evenings.’ Now skiers come from all over the world to visit the Beatles Bar, for some unique après ski. And there is a lot of other après ski to enjoy in this lively resort. The party starts well before Christimas and runs to the end of the season with live bands, open-air concerts and big party promotions, such as Austria’s leading radio station Ö3’s annual thrash. Wandering from bar to bar is part of the fun and the centre is buzzing most nights and well into the early hours. ■ www.obertauern.com +43 (0) 6456 7252
Small and friendly village resorts are just the place to start a life-long love of skiing. Peta Loyd samples the delights of Dienten am Hochkönig
The history of skiing is rich in turning points and revolutionary technological breakthroughs. The fixed-heel binding, the clip-on boot, the chalet girl, the hip flask, the fat ski …. But if you ask me when skiing changed, once and for all, from masochism for the few to effortless downhill pleasure for all, I would nominate the installation of the first drag-lift, on a Swiss skijumping hill in 1937. Mastering the drag-lift is no less important a breakthrough in the career of every skier, and I was excited for my four-year-old son, Henry, as he made his way towards his first solo ascent, in a ski school class on the nursery slope at the small Austrian village of Dienten am Hochkönig. For my son’s first foray in the world of skiing, I had studied parents and instructors at work and sought the advice of many friends. When and how to do it? There seemed to be as many solutions as parents. ‘Don’t take him before the age of six’; ‘Start him off before he learns to be afraid’; ‘Don’t ski with him between your legs’; ‘Try reins and a harness’; ‘December is too cold …’; ‘Snow conditions are unreliable in spring…’, and so it went on. I need not have bothered because in the face of so much conflicting
advice I fell back on my own memory of family holidays in small Austrian villages, based in traditional hotels, with skiing technique dispensed in a few words of no more than two syllables by that mythic figure, the local ski instructor. Henry’s was called Rainer. ‘Isn’t that great, you’ve got an instructor called Rhino!’ I said to Henry, delighted with my joke. ‘His name is Rainer,’ said Henry. I was curious to see how Rainer dealt with the drag-lift, and made sure I was there to watch when Henry’s moment came. With surprise, I saw Rainer go up ahead of his class – a bit casual, I thought – leaving his six little charges in the care of a grizzled old bear of a lift attendant with 50 years of pipe tobacco and schnapps on his breath. Edmund, nearly six and formidably together for his age, went first. Before the old bear could lumber up to help, Edmund grabbed a bar as it swung past his head and sailed up the hill without so much as a steadying hand. It was Henry’s turn next. He tried to do the same as Edmund, but wasn’t tall or strong enough to pull it off. ‘Don’t fall!’ growled the bear, placing the next disk between Henry’s legs and helping him on his way. This is the moment for all parents to rejoice. Time to scarper and ski.
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ut H o c h kö ni g c ontinue d Between runs, I would return to the nursery slope to sneak a look at Henry’s ski group in action, from a safe distance. There were plenty of falls, of course, but remarkably few tears. When the children went head over heels, Rainer was always below them – but rather than scampering up the slope to pick them up and wipe their goggles clean, Rainer simply shouted: ‘Get up!’ And the amazing thing was, they did. I watched in bewilderment. Where was the snivelling child who required a shouting match and shameless bribery to dress in the morning? Why, when told by Rainer to get up, did he not writhe around on the ground whining ‘Why did you let me fall over? My leg hurts, pick me up, I hate skiing!’ like any normal four-year-old? Don’t fall. Get up. When you’re four, skiing is that simple. At least, it ought to be; and in a small Austrian village such as Dienten, it is. From the hotel, the walk to the slopes is a fun warm-up past the bakery. The ski hire shop and ski school office are close at hand and, if there are tears during the week, a quiet word to the owner of the ski school, will set off the necessary chain of phone calls to deal with the problem; immediately, effortlessly, and without stress. In a small community such as Dienten, everyone knows everyone
else, and they all understand that the most important objective, fundamental to their prospects of a comfortable old age, is the happiness of their customers. In a large international resort full of part-time instructors, unemployed graduates and sleepdeprived ‘seasonaires’ hell-bent on having themselves a good time, the basics are easily overlooked. Save such resorts for when your children are of an age to demand pubs and clubs. Until then, savour the intimate charm and total safety of Dienten. In my experience, if you ask a young skier such as Henry, he will tell you that skiing is all right, but other things are better. Food, for example. The breakfast buffet with all its cereals, smoothie juices, pastries and chocolate spread, is all the incentive Henry needs to leap out of bed at dawn. Then there’s the hotel swimming pool to look forward to after skiing; not forgetting the all-important pit stop to refuel with hot chocolate and chocolate cake, with a snowball of thick cream on top – all home-made of course. Skiing takes up so much time, it is hard to fit in everything else – toboganning, curling (not Henry’s favourite), snowshoe hiking, geocaching (definitely Henry’s favourite), games of ten pin bowling in the hotel…
No Austrian ski week is complete without the ski school race on the last day, and Dienten is a picture on a sunny day, with parents gathered at the foot of the nursery slope to ‘Hup! Hup! Hup!’ their little darlings through the finishing line. While the other classes are racing, Rainer keeps the little ones entertained with snowball fights until it’s their turn. Edmund comes down quite fast, but I think Henry might run him close. After a steady start, however, he surprises us all with a sharp left turn two gates before the finish and then traversing to the lift, where he helps himself and rides back up to the start without a backwards glance. Rainer has told Henry to ski to the bottom, but Henry knows better – he’s going for a second run. As for the prize-giving, it’s classmate Harry’s show – a happy gathering, with the whole village there to cheer the winners and losers. But what Henry likes the best is the wonderful firework display at the end. Half asleep, I carry Henry back to the comforts of our family hotel. In his half-sleep state he pipes up with one last special request at the end of the holiday. ‘Promise we can come back to Dienten next year! And every year. Please!’ Henry and I have discovered our own family ski paradise and we will be back year after year.
A friendly secret Situated 42km due south of Salzburg, and taking its name from the highest mountain in the Berchtesgaden Alps, the family-friendly Hochkönig area sits in a valley which attracts some of the highest snowfall in the country. Described as ‘Austria’s best-kept secret’, the 150km of pistes were hugely boosted last year with some serious spending on the lifts, snowmaking and high-speed gondola infrastructure to seamlessly link them up. As well as the new child-friendly six-seater Bürglalm chairlift, there’s also a ‘Chondola’, a cross between a chairlift and a gondola for beginners and children. The area has been awarded the ‘Welcome Beginners’ seal, with its 52km of blue runs. It’s also not bad for intermediates, with 83km of red runs, and there are 15km of serious piste for the more experienced skier. Marketed under the vast ski amadé
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flag, visiting skiers also benefit from the ski amadé pass, which gives access to 276 lifts and 860km of some of the best snowy pistes around. The area is built around a handful of villages, including Maria Alm (see right) in the west, Dienten at the centre and Mühlbach in the east. Pretty and traditional, they offer all the amenities a family might want. At the foot of the Hochkönig is the picturesque Maria Alm hut village, with 16 rustic log cabins, each uniquely decorated and with everything the modern skier could require in terms of cosiness and mod cons. Skiing is just minutes away, and if you’re wondering about where to go to eat, there are no fewer than 15 high-quality mountain Schmankerl Hütten restaurants serving alpine specialities. ■ www.hochkoenig.at +43 (0) 6584 20388
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Pick of the parks Bad Gastein: Snowpark with 2 boxes, 2 rails, 1 roller & 1 jibcan – www.snowpark-gastein.com Flachauwinkl: Absolut Park at 1.5km is one of the largest in the Alps. Four sections, but can be ridden in one go – www.absolutpark.com Kaprun: Kitzsteinhorn Mellow Park (includes Glacier Park, Easy Park, Central Park with halfpipe) & Freeride Area – www.kitzsteinhorn.at obertauern: Fun Park & Longplay Park, 15+ rails, boxes, jumps – www.obertauern.com St Johann: Betterpark Funpark, 675m (150m elevation drop). Great rails – www.sanktjohann.com LEOGANG: Nitro Snowpark has everything a boarder could want – www.leoganger-bergbahnen.at
gaste in valle y
Ski & spa
Where luxury meets rustic charm Alpine hut villages such as the one at Maria Alm are increasingly the winter holiday homes of choice for visitors looking for a more escapist experience. Small, romantic, rustic, cosy, offering the idea of a simpler lifestyle without foregoing the comforts of today’s world, these are full of character and the attraction is also in the charm and detail of what they offer. Luxury and style fit well with this idea of mountain vacation living at Bergdorf Priesteregg, situated on-high in Leogang at 1,100m above sea level. Antique wood, Swiss pine, natural stone and hand-woven country linens, a wellness tub, private sauna hut, gorgeous warming gourmet specialities served on your own terrace…. You get the picture. And it’s all about location too – impressive views of the surrounding Leoganger Steinberge, Steinernes Meer plateau and the Hochkönig in all their mountainous glory. Altogether there are 16 of these superior huts, geared towards luxury and wellness, which have been a huge hit with visitors from around the world since they opened in 2010. Others offer perhaps a private pool, wood-burning ovens, organic breakfast basket, Indian teepee-massages and even a tanning bed! ■ Here are some stylish hut villages to check out: • www.priesteregg.at • www.huettendorf.com • The Schmankerl Chalet www.schmankerl-chalet.com • www.almdorf-flachau.at
Skiing, mountains and spas were made for each other, and the 20kmlong Gastein Valley in the Hohe Tauern National Park is a magnet for those who want to combine their winter sports with feeling good. Comprising Bad Gastein, Bad Hofgastein and Dorfgastein, it is just an hour and 15 minutes from Salzburg. The elegant town of Bad Gastein, with its picturesque waterfall in the centre, has long been a byword for good spas and today the area’s 200km of slopes and five ski and snowboard schools are complemented by two top modern thermal spas. Bad Hofgastein is the main village, with an impressive selection of shops, while Dorfgastein, at the entrance to the valley, has the solar baths as a huge family attraction. Going as high as 2,700m, these slopes provide a broad range of challenges, whether for beginners, with 60km of easy runs, intermediates, with 117km of slopes, and for more experienced skiers, 24km of black runs. All in all there are over 200km of downhill skiing, including the high Sportgastein ski area (1,590–2,686m) with 44 lifts (not to mention nearly as
many mountain restaurants) – and as part of the SalzburgerLand ski amadé umbrella, your lift pass is valid for use at 25 different ski villages, offering the staggering total of 860 different downhill pistes and 270 ski lifts. The Gastein Valley is home to fewer than 15,000 people – who are visited each year by well over two million holidaymakers! On the slopes are the numerous chair and drag lifts. Links to other snow areas include the funicular to Kitzstein, cablecar to Schlossalm and, if you ski across to Skicentrum Angertal, there are links across to Stubnerkogel above Bad Gastein. The charming and quite grand resort of Bad Gastein has long been famous for its thermal waters and spa treatments, with 18 radon-rich springs rising up from the ground in the town centre (see page 13). The 19th century historic town of belle époque villas is one of the most delightful in the Alps and offers many pretty wooded trails for more cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. ■ www.gastein.com, +43 (0) 6432 3393-0 +43 (0) 6432 3393-114 SalzburgerLand | 61
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Atomic
Her stunning drive and energy helped downhill ski racer Chemmy Alcott to the top – and, as she tells Joanne O’Brien, it will get her back on track
M
ost of us find lugging a pair of skis to the Alps a bit of a bind – top British downhill ski racer Chemmy Alcott has more than 30 pairs to contend with. But she does get a bit of help from her sponsor Atomic. She signed a contract with the Salzburg-based firm in April 2010, to run for two years, to provide her skis and boots. However, she had a disastrous accident in December 2010, when she spectacularly crashed at 80mph during a training session on the eve of the opening women’s World Cup downhill race at Lake Louise, Canada. She landed heavily after a jump, suffering a multiple fracture of her right leg.
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However, you don’t get to become Britain’s top female Alpine skier, and be ranked eighth in the world before her accident, without vast reserves of determination and courage. Skiing from the age of 18 months, she broke her neck at 12, her left arm four times, and even her back. She began competing at the age of eight and, still not yet 30 (she was 29 in July 2011), Chemmy has competed in three Winter Olympic Games and six FIS World Championships. She is also the five-time Overall Senior British National Champion (2002, 2003, 2005, 2007 and 2008). When I meet her, in a park near her home just outside west London, she has been on a three-hour bike ride in Surrey woods and is now meeting friends for a game of tennis. A promising tennis player when young – she played for the South of England – she still plays regularly when she can and in 2010 took part in a celebrity tournament, which she and Australian veteran tennis partner Mark Philippoussis won. Her friends, she says, tend to be skiers, so she arrives with Ed Drake, of the British ski team and Britain’s No 1 male alpine skier, and her close friend Britt Janyk, of the Canadian ski team (Chemmy now trains with them, after getting fed up training on her own). The Surrey/Middlesex area west of London has always been her base in a career where much of the time is spent away from home. Chemmy comes from
a sporty family, with dad Tim strong on rugby, her late and much adored mother, Eve, a swimmer, and brothers Alex, 37, and Rufus, 33, both got to the England Alpine Squad. Sponsorship is crucial for worldclass sportspeople such as Chemmy, who says most of her ‘considerable’ programme costs come from her sponsors including Landrover and N Peal, the cashmere clothing company, and of course Atomic. Based in Altenmarkt in the Pongau region of Salzburg province, right in the heart of the Alps, the company dates back to 1955. It is noted for its innovative products and increasingly for environmentally friendly production methods, and Chemmy has made several visits to the factory. She says: ‘Atomic is the crème de la crème of ski racing. To have the biggest guys in the business come to me and say ‘We want you to use our kit’ was pretty much why I kept going. After the accident I wrote saying what had happened. They said: “We’ll stick by you”.’ She’s come to know a fair bit of Austria over the years, and says she is readily recognised in the country. ‘We’ve had the British championships in Saalbach a few times – it’s a good place to ski fast.’ Skiing in Austria and for Austrians, she says, is like football in the UK and going to football matches. ‘Soccer is our sport and in Austria they are passionate about skiing.’ She had an Austrian coach for five years, so understands some Austrian/ German but says she doesn’t speak it much, having chosen French and Latin at school. She’s also become
ATOMIC AUSTRA GMBH
Chemmy
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Meet the Herminator Taking a breather on the slopes, you may be lucky enough to spot a living legend – one of Austria’s greatest skiing names. Hermann Maier dominated Alpine ski racing in the 1990s and into the first decade of this century, and was a regular on the FIS training hill at Flachau before retiring in autumn 2009. Christian Jansky / Originally from Flachau, in SalzburgerLand, where his father wikimedia commons owned a ski school, he tried in vain to break into the Austrian ski team, putting his failure down to his slight physique. A summer stint as a bricklayer, more skiing practice and in 1997 at the age of 25 he won the World Cup. A reputation for being unbeatable and unbreakable – he survived a shocking fall in a downhill race during the Olympic Games in Nagano, watched on TV screens around the world – was massively enhanced when at the peak of his career Maier nearly lost his legs in a motorbike accident. He went on to make an astonishing comeback, retaking his all-over world champion title and by the time of his retirement at the age of 37, having won 53 World Cup races and being the second most successful skier in the history of the World Cup races. His apparent invincibility earned him the nickname ‘the Herminator’ – he even shared an interview sofa with The Terminator, aka Arnold Schwarzenegger.
very familiar with the ski resort of Lofer. ‘The British Olympic Association leased a winter base there, which was our base for about five years and in between World Cups we would go there for recuperation and training.’ Her ski idols include Hermann Maier, from Salzburg, who made an astonishing comeback after a serious accident. ‘I particularly admire him – his journey through skiing was epic, and how he overcame a horrible accident resonates a lot with me now!’ ‘In my early years I skied more in France. But when you think about skiing, you always visualise somewhere in Austria – it epitomises what skiing should be. And I think of the vibrant green scenery and the strong smell of pine!’ Unlike leisure skiers, pros like Chemmy don’t do après ski unless
you count eating and sleeping. ‘Our schedules are different in the year depending on whether we are on a training phase, which means up at sunrise, training for four or five hours until our legs give way, lunch, siesta, coffee, afternoon physical training, video analysis, meeting, physio, dinner, bed! In race season the days are shorter but essentially the same.’ She has picture-postcard memories of Salzburg, very close to Lofer, which she used to enjoy visiting, going up to the Hohensalzburg castle and having a coffee looking down on the old town. In all photographs, and in person, she always appears not just professional but sunny and positive, those gleaming white teeth something of a trademark. What gets her through, particularly after the devastating and unexpected sudden death of her mother (her name
is short for Chimene, named after Sophia Loren’s character in the old Hollywood movie of ‘El Cid’ and his wife, whom Chemmy’s mother was said to resemble). ‘I think I have a good spirit and drive. I think it’s because I have had to deal with some tough experiences in my life, so know how to see the sunny side of life and ‘carpe diem’ [‘seize the day’ in Latin].’ She says her goal is to ‘ski fast again.’ ‘It’s hard to set targets when, with support and a healthy body, you fight your way up to eighth in the world, then you have a horrific accident and have to adapt your life to your new leg. So it will be a challenge – I have less sensation in my leg now, and ten screws and a big plate, so I want to take my comeback day by day; having said that, those who know me know I don’t do anything 50 per cent!’
High energy: Chemmy Alcott in action and (insert) relaxing near her London home
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S a a l b ac h - H i n t erg l em m- L eo g an g
Seriously good slopes These three small towns of Saalbach, Hinterglemm and Leogang near the border with the Tyrol make up one of Austria’s leading ski resorts, with 200km of groomed hills, and boast a great snow record. A short drive from Salzburg (56 miles), the Skicircus Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang has been described as ‘Queen of the SalzburgerLand resorts’ and is ski heaven for intermediate skiers, though there are some exceptionally challenging runs and nursery slopes for the other ends of the ski spectrum (you can choose from 19 ski schools). In the last decade more than €234million has been invested in improving the skiing infrastructure. Just opened is a new 8-person gondola, the Bernkogelbahn, and a 6-seater lift with heated seats, the Reiterkogel-Ost. But it is not only the quality and quantity of the slopes which makes this region so special – don’t forget the fabulous food, with nearly 400 mountain lodges and restaurants vying with each other to offer you delicious warming snacks and proper sit-down lunches to provide energy for the afternoon shift on the slopes. The once unassuming farming town of Saalbach is now a bustling Austrian ski centre with traditional charm, whose cobbles and onion-domed church are also the backdrop to a busy nightlife – it has been voted best après ski resort in the
Alps. Hinterglemm, about 4km away, is smaller and quieter, and more geared to beginner skiers. Skiing here, with its lure of luxurious long, fast runs, can be found on both sides of the east-west-oriented Saalbach Valley. Head to the shadier, deeper snow of the south-side pistes for off-piste, where you only need to venture slightly off the main slopes for deep, untouched white stuff. The three-piste network also takes in Leogang, which offers more for experienced skiers and boarders in the worldclass Nitro Park there (and there is also a smaller snowpark at Hinterglemm). ■ www.skicircus.at, +43 (0) 6541 6800-0
Z ELL AM S EE -K AP R UN
Winter thrills in a vintage setting
The romantic, traditional resort of Zell Am See, with its peanut-shaped 68m-deep Lake Zell, is one of the oldest and best-loved ski resorts. The railway’s arrival in 1875 and the 1906 founding of the Zell ski club helped make the resort a huge success with tourists in its early years. Today, with its sister resort of Kaprun, the area offers 138km of slopes, with 18 ski and snowboard schools and 55 lifts. One of the biggest attractions is the year-round skiing on the glacier at Kitzsteinhorn at 3,203m. Also a huge attraction on the glacier is the 30,000 square-metre snow park area, with three snowparks altogether, a 5.5m halfpipe and a recently introduced freeride guidance system using a team of local experts to provide more safety on the five freeride ski routes. Another huge draw for snow enthusiasts at Kitzsteinhorn
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is the Volvo Ice Camp, an igloo village constructed each winter season from around mid-January until mid-April, offering icy accommodation where you can sleep, enjoy a drink, dine at a table of glass-clear ice, or simply relax, stretch out on a lounger, listen to a DJ and then snuggle down for the night under reindeer furs. Back in Zell and Kaprun, with its imposing castle, the nightlife and eateries garner great reviews, the cobbled streets adding to the charm and feel-good factor. Peakworld 3000 is the latest attraction, which includes a panorama platform, a cinema and an exhibition space. The National Park Gallery has been built inside the mountain and will run a range of exhibitions. The summit restaurant is also extremely impressive with its great views. ■ www.zellamsee-kaprun.com, +43 (0) 6542 770
Ski shuttle You can combine skiing with a Salzburg city holiday and get the best of both worlds by making Mozart’s birthplace your base and taking advantage of the FREE ski shuttle service straight to the resort of Flachau each day. There are various departure points in the city. The journey takes around an hour to the resort of Flachau in a comfortable bus. An on-board multilingual guide takes care of things like ski passes and rental equipment, and can also be used as a sounding board on other activities and where to go for refreshments. Return from Flachau is late afternoon and the journey back is also free – the whole service is part of your purchase of a lift ticket. skishuttle@ salzburg.info
.ST J O H ANN -ALPEN D OR F
Out-of-town skiers The major tourism centre of St Johann im Pongau, dominated by the impressive large parish church, is an attractive country town and has much more of an urban feel than some of the other resorts. Its skiing facilities are more recent and tend to be more purpose-built than at other, smaller villages. A mere 60km drive from Salzburg, the skier here will find demanding, long ski runs with variety for all abilities, a ski kindergarten and good practice areas for beginners. Snowboarders and more experienced skiers are well suited with a snowboard and freestyle ski park and a timed race track. Three ski schools, and a variety of cross-country ski trails at high and low altitudes, are complemented by easy access to other resorts in the ski amadé network, and some great après ski. ■ www.sanktjohann.com, +43 (0) 6412 6036
wag r a i n- Kl ei n ar l
F LACHAU
Fantastic for family fun Intermediates run free One of the top family resorts in the country, big enough to offer plenty but small enough not to feel intimidating. Wagrain is also part of the ski amadé alliance– Austria’s largest skiing network with 270 cable cars and 860km of runs. With stunning panoramas, long, broad slopes and some of the best snow
conditions, there’s also a huge arsenal of snowmaking equipment here as elsewhere in the amadé ski area. Great après ski, and an excellent museum (the Karl Heinrich Waggerl Museum, a massively popular author in Austria). The broad range of skiing opportunities it offers for families with children includes the Kids’ Ski World, with its programme of fun instruction and bunny lift, magic carpets, igloo, carousel, tubing hill and tepee. Great eating places too, in a very pretty, relaxed resort. ■ www.wagrain-kleinarl.info, +43 (0) 6413 8448 (Wagrain office), +43 (0) 6418 206 (Kleinarl office)
Partly famous through the spectacular skiing career of its legendary son Hermann Maier (which bodes well for learners!) of Flachau. Snowboard world cup stars the Riegler sisters, Claudia and Manuela, also hail from here and those keen to follow in their footsteps will find both a specialist snowboard school and a fun park. Spanning 930 to 1,980m, Flachau is part of the ski amadé alliance with 860 km of ski runs in total. The area has about 100 ski lifts which can take 60,000 skiers and snowboarders an hour. The huge choice of wide, blue pistes makes the destination also attractive for beginners. More demanding runs for the most experienced are also to be found. The nightlife might be described as ‘intermediate’ too – not as wild as in some resorts, not as quiet as others. ■ www.flachau.com, +43 (0) 6457 2214-0
RA D STA DT
For a special Christmas From state-of-the-art ski lifts to its thirteenth-century castle, Radstadt combines history and character with some great skiing. Its location providing shelter from prevailing winds, wide slopes and family-friendly size, make it stress-free too. Skiers looking for more adventures than the 34km of slopes on offer, can take advantage of the network of free ski buses to other nearby ski centres such as Flachau and Obertauern in the ski amadé network. Head to Radstadt in
the run-up to Christmas, with Advent a magical time in the Austrian calendar with special events to celebrate the season, emphasised by the historical setting. Enjoy contemplative Christmas walks along the torchlit Kaiserpromenade, with carols, a brass band and storytellers, and snowy trips into the woods. And take home some great food memories too – the town prides itself on its culinary offerings. ■ www.radstadt.com, +43 (0) 6452 7472 SalzburgerLand | 65
winter sports
There’s more to snow than downhill skiing... the Gnadenalm rink in Obertauern, opened for the 2011 season.
Snow tubing
One of the hottest trends in recent seasons (or should that be the coolest?), snow tubing is great for a family night out – you get pulled up the side of the slope, hauling your giant doughnut-shaped rubber tyre, climb in at the top and push off (or get a friendly hand to do it for you). If you all hold on to each others’ tubes, it’s multiple fun as you whiz down the specially prepared slide.
Tandem paragliding
When you consider the list of activities you can do and fun you can have in the white stuff, you wonder how you’ll find the time to fit in skiing. Here are just a few to whet your appetite… Tobogganing
The longest toboggan run in the world may or may not be the 14kmlong extended slide at Bramberg am Wildkogel in the Zell am See area (Switzerland claims theirs is a kilometre longer), but it’s surely the longest floodlit run. A huge attraction, there are also another 120 in the region, half of which are lit up or partially floodlit after dark. The tracks tend to be around 3km long – though Radstadt has double the fun at 6m – and you reach the start either by cable car or, more thrillingly, sleigh ride, and most take you past rustic mountain chalets for a hot drink. At Fuschl am See the pretty Elmau Valley provides some natural toboggan runs.The 1.5 km Gnadenalm run in Obertauern is fun for the family and well lit every evening.
Nordic sports
There aren’t many activities that so beautifully combine overall body exercise in a stunning environment with pristine, clear air. Key is the reliable, fantastic snow – then it’s up to you whether you opt for a scenic alpine trail, classic valley trail 66 | SalzburgerLand
or even tackling one of the World Championship courses. Around Saalfelden-Leogang, an area renowned for its cross-country schools and infrastructure, there’s a 150km trail network which also feeds into the World Championship trails around beautiful Lake Ritzensee. The Gastein Valley offers a floodlit trail and in spring you can still enjoy the snowy trails at 1,600m above sea level up at Sportgastein. The gym was never such fun.
Snowshoeing
There’s something timeless about snowshoeing, a link with our ancestors as we soundlessly plod through sparkling woodland and across lakes. These days our footwear has evolved from wooden tennis-racket-type contraptions to lightweight affairs. If you like to head for the hills, most resorts offer marked trails and there are often guided hikes to be arranged via the tourism office.
Ice skating
There is nothing better than skating in the open air, and SalzburgerLand has 68 rinks to enjoy. The latest is
Walking in the air: above, snowshoeing is a great way to keep fit. Even Olympic star Felix Gottwald finds the perfect conditions here in SalzburgerLand for his training
The sports of paragliding and hanggliding are far easier to master on skis when you consider take-off and landing in an updrift are practically done for you – you’re simply whisked away with an experienced instructor. There are schools offering courses to teach the basics. But a tandem ride is a pefect way to see if this is for you.
Snow kiting
There’s nothing quite like it – a cross between flying and floating, heading hard into the wind wearing a snowboard or short ski and holding on to a steering kite. You’re cruising at speed across the snow, taking wide turns, and then the combination of the wind and hitting a small hill gives you lift-off, an amazing feeling of weightlessness for a few seconds. A huge trend, becoming bigger.
Waterfall climbing
Ice climbers from around the world head for the waterfalls in SalzburgerLand in winter, their thunderous waters frozen solid and transformed into icy sculptures. From December to February you can give it a go with crampons, ropes and ice axes at the man-made ice towers, where beginners are guided under controlled conditions. The Uttendorf swimming lake at the resort of Zell am See offers a great climb, with its 10m-high towers. High-ho! ■ For more details go to www.salzburgerland.com
...reserved for your next holiday SalzburgerLand Tourismus Ges.m.b.H. Wiener Bundesstr. 23, A-5300 Hallwang bei Salzburg Web: www.salzburgerland.com ■ Tel: +43 (0) 662 6688-0 ■ Fax: +43 (0) 662 6688-66 ■ Email: info@salzburgerland.com
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06/01/2012 12:36
Stieglbrauerei, Salzburg
Step up to Stiegl The beer from the Alps
abV 4.9%
100 % Purity 100 % Quality 100 % Salzburg
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06/01/2012 10:47
