Issue 08 | The Roots Issue
The Essence of Living Locally
www.tellnewengland.com
- A MAGAZINE FOR NEW ENGLAND -
THE ROOTS ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM MANAGING EDITOR Mandi Tompkins FOUNDING PARTNERS Jenn Bakos & Ashley Herrin
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS, PHOTOGRAPHERS, RECIPE CRAFTERS Jacin Page Fitzgerald Steve Depino Photography Erin Heath & Rose Mattos Kristina O'Shea Emily Kanter Erin Costello Smith Katherine Hysmith Nick Devine Lauren McGrath Stephanie Pilk Lennie Newman Foxfire Buck
A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO... Page Hardware Cambridge Naturals Hey Empanรก Foret Design Studio Fivefork Farms Snug Harbor Farm Of Note Stationers Repeat Press
GET IN TOUCH SUBMISSIONS submit@tellnewengland.com GENERAL INQUIRIES info@tellnewengland.com MANDI Mandi@tellnewengland.com ASHLEY Ashley@tellnewengland.com JENN Jenn@tellnewengland.com
A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR
WE
New Englander’s are a hearty bunch, with toughness and determination
running through our veins. A look to our roots makes it clear how we became this way. Since the day the Pilgrim’s landed on this harsh landscape, this determination has been tested. With each challenge, our ancestors learned how to better cull the landscape, build homes, and survive brutal winters. But they didn’t just survive, they built a community to be proud of and a culture that is recognized around the nation for its perseverance, stubbornness, and courage. This winter has been a reminder of our roots and a true test of our resolve. To have roots in a place is to be established deeply and firmly, and to believe that you truly belong to a place. Those with genuine New England roots — new or old — know that winter has helped shape the people we are. The brutal cold and snow never stopped our ancestors, and nothing will stop us. We feel that now, at the tail end of one of the harshest winters on record, is the most relevant time to celebrate our roots. After all, if we didn’t love this land, why on earth would we be willing to trudge through snow banks, spend hours on the “T” trying to get to work, and risk getting frostbite on a trip to the store? It takes a true New Englander to survive a winter like this, and in this issue we celebrate those people — the artists, makers, family business owners, and more.. On behalf of the t.e.l.l. New England team,
Mandi Tompkins, Managing Editor -7t.e.l.l. NEW ENGL AND
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PAGE HARDWARE : A FAMILY LEGACY ON THE GREEN
FINDING OUR ROOTS WITH FORET DESIGN STUDIO
HEY EMPANA: MERGING CUISINE AND CULTURE
76
90
96
NEW ENGLAND'S HISTORIC RUM TRADE
COMMUNITY GUIDE: SNUG HARBOR FARM
INDULGE: 24 KARAT GOLD CARROTS
52
62
66
IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS
INDULGE: ROOT VEGGIE CHOWDER
CAMBRIDGE NATURALS: AT THE ROOT OF WELLNESS
THE ROOTS ISSUE: TABLE OF CONTENTS 102
104
108
A NEW (ENGLAND WOMEN
PORTRAIT OF A NEW ENGLANDER: SHE-WOLF
THE ART OF LETTER WRITING: OF NOTE STATIONERS
"A people without the knowledge of their past history, origin and culture is like a tree without roots."
PAGE HARDWARE: A FAMILY LEGACY ON THE GREEN
STORY BY JACIN PAGE FITZGERALD PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEVE DEPINO
Some of the Page Hardware family, left to right: Andrew Page, Stephen Page, Roger Tucker, Hayden Page, Harrison Page
WHEN I was a kid, I always wished I could be a lifeguard in the summer. I loved the idea of being outdoors and achieving that perfect summer glow to show off when school started again – plus, it seemed like a “cool” job to have. On the contrary, I grew up working at my family’s hardware store, Page Hardware, located on a quintessential New England town green in Guilford, Connecticut. The hardware store resides in three buildings, the first of which was built in 1857 and initially housed the town post office, a general store, an ice cream parlor, a meat market and a restaurant. In 1896, a gentleman named E.H. Butler purchased the building and moved his hardware business into the storefront. Mr. Butler ran the hardware store until 1939 when my grandfather, Harry L. Page Jr., purchased the building and business. Since then, the store has been owned and operated by the Page family (my uncle, father and cousin being respective owners in succession) and while I didn’t always necessarily understand or appreciate the tiny role I was playing in my family’s legacy when I was a kid, I get it now. Sadly, these days it feels as though we are living in a world brimming with more and more big chain stores, Walmarts and Home Depots galore, along with an increasing number of online giants where the e-commerce really does take away from the brick and mortar experience. All the while, the mom and pop shops are seemingly few and far between, a dwindling reminder of the days when times were different, life was enjoyed at a slower pace, phone calls were made instead of texts, and letters were hand-written instead of emails. But as bleak as these days may seem sometimes, I feel a glimmer of hope knowing that stores like Page Hardware still exist, and that small New England communities still support these family businesses despite the newly-constructed and online discount competition. »
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The crew stands in for their morning meeting before the day begins.
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“
The mom and pop shops are seemingly few and far between, a dwindling reminder of the days when times were different, life was enjoyed at a slower pace, phone calls were made instead of texts, and letters were hand-written instead of emails.
Unloading the ice melt in preparation for yet another winter storm.
Page’s holds a special place in my sentimental heart, and I’m not just saying that because I happen to be part of the family. Tradition is a big thing at Page’s; since 1939 they’ve started the day just like the last, arriving around 6:30 in the morning to meet and discuss the day’s tasks, then taking the stock out, one shovel (or rake), gas grill, and sled (depending on the season) at a time. At some point someone will make a breakfast run for bacon, egg and cheese sandwiches on hard rolls from the Guilford Food Center just across the green, just as the early morning construction and lumber workers start strolling in to pick up materials for their day’s work. Roger Tucker is a staple in the store – he’s been working there for 60 years and knows just about every person in town. They know him, too, and look to him for the “do you know what this thing is” and “ how do I fix this” questions on a daily basis. My father, Stephen Page, who recently received the “Golden Hammer” for 50 years of service in the hardware industry, has been telling us for years he’s going to “retire”, but he still goes in every day. Ray Murphy has been working the cash register since before I can even remember, before I even entered this world. My grandmother, Hazel Page, brought in a homemade cake every single Friday until just a bit before she passed away. These cakes were even more reason to look forward to Fridays, and some of the best you’d ever taste. Even the customers knew what Fridays meant, and they all somehow ended up in the office just in case a cake might have arrived. My cousin, Andrew Page (current owner) runs a tight ship and never let us get away with slacking off or being lazy on the job – trust me, we tried every trick in the book with him. He and my father made me proud to represent the family business when I worked there, and even more proud and protective of it after I left. You see, the real difference between family-owned stores like Page’s and the big chains comes down to more than just the creaky wood floors, the galvanized nail bins and huge wooden Santa’s Mailbox that gets placed out on the front sidewalk every holiday season. » - 19 t.e.l.l. NEW ENGL AND
Stephen and Andrew Page, two of the store's owners since the Page Family bought the business in 1939.
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Roger Tucker, dedicated and beloved employee for over 60 years.
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The real difference is the people who make up the fabric of Page’s legacy – the hardened New Englanders who know how to survive the next snowstorm and trust from experience that spring will return each season, just like fall comes back every year to offer a reprieve from summer’s heat. These hearts and souls still believe in the mom and pop shops, and continue to treat customers the way they deserve to be treated. This consistent customer service sets the small businesses apart for sure. Having just celebrated their 75th year in business, Page’s continues to evolve and grow with the trends but still remains the same place you’d remember if you visited thirty years ago or last week. While I never did get to lifeguard in my younger days, I wouldn’t have traded my experience at the family store for the world. Not only do I know the difference between Phillips and regular screwdrivers, but I can build a Weber grill in less than thirty minutes, too. That’s a real life skill, people! Besides, who said you can’t get a tan while you wash the outdoor hardware store windows in the summer? That beats the lifeguard gig any day. ◊◊◊
Learn more about Page Hardware at www.pagehardware.com
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Page's employees bring the stock out every morning, rain or shine.
FINDING OUR ROOTS WITH FORET DESIGN STUDIO
AN AFTERNOON WITH ERIN HEATH & ROSE MATTOS, FORET DESIGN STUDIO PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENN BAKOS
"We all have roots. Trees, cities, villages, families, humankind, and even simple things, like flowers. Both biological and historical. The fauna that grows from the earth has physical roots. These roots serve many purposes - some can create wholesome, sustainable meals and others have great medicinal properties. The roots of a plant are one of it’s lifelines, collecting water and nutrients to nurture and support health and new growth. Plants and flowers also create stability and bind the earth together with their roots after heavy rain."
Forêt Design Studio has become a staple to the New England floral landscape. Erin and Rose have effortlessly worked to create some of the most stunning flower arrangements we’ve seen. Their care and attention to detail that goes into each piece of work is reflective of the passion and influence they draw from the raw materials used: flowers. We’ve been ever-so-anxious to collabrote with this talented duo, and finally were given the chance shortly after announcing the theme of our 8th issue, The Roots Issue. We excitedly opened an email from Erin, that described a deeply moody yet beautiful arrangement accentuated by the very name of this issue, roots. It was something we’ve never seen done before, but we could not wait to document these ladies as they crafted and created such an emotional centerpiece. »
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We met Erin and Rose at Fivefork Farm, a flower farm located in Upton, MA and also a feature in t.e.l.l. Issue 05.
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Roots were used to bring this floral arrangement to life.
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"When thinking about the history and the function of roots, we thought about how we could make them the stars of the show for an arrangement. Who says it always has to be a stunning café au lait dahlia or the perfect garden rose? We set out to Fivefork Farm in Upton, Ma., where many of our flowers are born and raised. It felt only appropriate to arrange collected gomphrena roots and other foliage in a space that is so deeply rooted in the origins of our own product. While keeping these sentiments in the back of our mind, we thought about what other materials related to these gomphrena roots. Kale, a local species, felt like a perfect pairing along with barren branches. Using an aged terracotta urn bearing marks and history, the story was bound together simply and almost without effort." Watching Rose and Erin work was inspiring. They have an effortless and uncomplicated grace that is something to admire. Their affinity for nature’s blossoms indicates an unwavering understanding of nature and a deeply rooted commitment to showcasing its true beauty. To say it stops there is an understatement.
Our business even has a lineage. It began with a deep rooted friendship and a passion for being in touch with nature. Often, when describing our business, we use a flower's life as a metaphor: creating roots, building and nurturing growth (the stem), and allowing the flower to blossom. Roots, for us, are the beginning. The origin. The birthplace. ◊◊◊
Learn more about Forêt Design Studio at www.foretdesignstudio.com
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ForĂŞt Design Studio is a floral and event styling company based in Somerville, MA. Co-founders and best friends, Rose Mattos (L) and Erin Heath (R) are pictured right.
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Melissa & Sebastian from Hey Empanรก. Their empanadas infuse their roots with the present: traditional South American flavors with a modern mix.
MEET THE MAKERS
HEY EMPANA: MERGING CUISINE & CULTURE AN AFTERNOON WITH HEY EMPANA PHOTOGRAPHS & STORY BY ASHLEY HERRIN
HOLDING on to your cultural heritage is incredibly important. Our roots, our history and our culture influence and shape us as individuals, and as a larger community. Cultural heritage is evident in the clothes we wear, the religions we follow, and in the foods we eat. Hey Empaná is a blossoming small business that revolves around the latter and is influenced in a big way, by their cultural heritage. Hey Empaná was started in 2012 by Sebastian Galvez and Melissa Stefanini. Merging cuisine and culture, Hey Empaná brings magic to the dinner table in the form of empanadas filled with traditional Latin American flavors or eclectic twists on some of the dishes we can’t live without (see the ‘Cordon Bleu-ish’). An empanada is a breaded pastry filled with ingredients that range from traditional savory fillings to delectable sweets. With empanadas and what you choose to use for fillings, there really are no limits. You can use whatever leftovers you may have in the kitchen, which is traditionally how empanadas were made, or you can creatively combine ingredients to make new flavors. For Hey Empaná , they enjoy the best of both worlds. >>>
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In the kitchen with Hey Empanรก. Their from-scracth empanadas are oven-baked & made with only the freshest ingredients.
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The Latin American staple ‘The Chilean,’ stuffed with seasoned beef, caramelized onion, black olive, hard-boiled egg and raisin, pairs perfectly with ‘The Return of the Mac,’ a nod to our blue-box childhoods and stuffed with a gooey three-cheese mac and beef short rib. When selling their empanadas at events, the team typically likes to bring one traditional flavor and one modern flavor to the table. The result is a sold-out batch and a lot of happily stuffed customers. Hey Empaná brought their South American roots to Boston in 2013 when they moved from Los Angeles. But their story starts much earlier. Melissa and Sebastian were both born and raised in Miami, FL. They attended the same high school, years apart, and as it goes, didn’t actually meet each other until they were out of school. Sebastian owned a skate shop, Melissa stopped in for a visit, and the rest is history. A move to Los Angeles spiked their entrepreneurial spirit. With Latin American cuisine and empanadas such a central part of their upbringing, Hey Empaná was born. And, Los Angeles was the perfect incubator. An overabundance of fresh produce at the farmer’s markets year-round gave them the opportunity to craft and create amazing stuffed treats. And because all of their empanadas are made with only the freshest ingredients, it was the perfect location to jump-start their new business venture. A new job opportunity and a curiosity to explore a new region sent Hey Empaná east to Boston. They have not only built a sense of community around the products they offer with great success, but they have also been welcomed into the Boston community with open arms. Today they operate out of the kitchen of KO Pies, an East Boston staple. Co-owner, Sam Jackson has been incredibly supportive in helping Hey Empaná put down roots in the city. And their roots have grown immensely in this new location. Boston is a melting pot of cultures and cuisines. » - 43 t.e.l.l. NEW ENGL AND
Empanadas are a very versatile food and can be filled with a variety of items, from traditional savory fillings to decadent sweet fillings.
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Empanadas can be sealed in a variety of ways such as folding or even braiding. A fork is also a quick way of doing it.
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For being such a small city (in comparison to New York & Los Angeles), we have some of the most incredible dining opportunities. But one thing we have been deprived of for so long is one of the reasons Hey Empaná has been so successful thus far: empanadas…and not just any empanadas; fresh, fromscratch and baked empanadas. Good empanadas. When I met with Sebastian at the KO kitchen to interview him for this issue, he was in the process of making a fresh batch of empanadas for lunch the following day at an advertising agency in downtown Boston. Overall, it was one of those experiences where you walk away truly appreciative of the quality in the product that you are receiving as a customer. The ingredients were purchased at a local organic food store – and are typically sourced from local markets when they can be…of course, we need to melt a few feet of snow before we see those pop up again. The filling was fine-diced by hand, mixed, baked, seasoned and scooped. The dough, which was pre-made earlier in the day, was rolled out onto the industrial counter, dusted with flour and filled with the vegetable medley. He then folded each empanada and “cut” them out of the dough, and sealed them (also by hand), a process I found incredibly interesting. Sebastian explained that each style of empanada is sealed differently, and that typically varies culture to culture. Crimping the edges with a fork is pretty common practice. For places where a large variety of empanadas are served, a repulgue, or pattern, is applied to the pastry fold. Overall, the “by hand” process stood out the most and something Hey Empaná takes pride in. Though they would like to automate to make certain things a little easier in the kitchen, they will never minimize the importance of a homemade empanada. Which overall, ties right back to their roots. Recounting stories of indulging in from-scratch empanadas made by family members when growing up, you are immediately aware of the importance this food has, not only their past, but in their present and in a blossoming future. ◊◊◊
Learn more about Hey Empaná at www.heyempana.com - 46 t.e.l.l. NEW ENGL AND
Empanadas are a great way to use seasonal or fresh fruit and vegetables in the filling. Traditionally, they were made with whatever was left over in the kitchen.
ROOT MEDLEY EMPANADA The Root Medley is made with seasonal root vegetables, so this filling varies depending on what's available at your local grocer.
2-3
DOZEN EMPANADAS
The empanadas featured here are made with yucca, sweet potatos, russet potato, onion, garlic and ginger. As dough varieties and preferences vary greatly, follow your preferred empanada recipe.
PEPARATION TIME 20-30 MINUTES
COOK TIME 45-60 MINUTES
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
1 medium yucca
Prep dough as outlined in your preferred method.
1 regular sweet potato
Fine dice all the bigger vegetables. Mix in a bowl
1 russet potato 1-2 yellow onions
with a light coating of oil. Add salt and pepper and a light coating of maple syrup. Add Herbs de Provence, red pepper flakes, paprika, and garlic
1 head garlic, minced
powder, all to taste. Spread the mixture on a baking
2 Tbsp. minced ginger
sheet lined with parchment paper and roast in the
1 Tbsp. turmeric
oven at 380°. Cook until golden and toasty or till
1 Bunch green onion (Save these for after roasting)
or stir throughout to prevent burning the edges).
roots are soft, but not too soft. (Make sure to rotate
Vegtable oil
Once the vegetables are roasted, cool and add
Maple syrup
green onions. Dust the mix lightly with flour and
Herbs de Provence
add a light drizzle of oil and maple syrup (this helps
Red pepper flakes Paprika
bind the mixture and keep it moist) and give everything one last mix. The filling is ready to be put into your dough once it’s cooled.
Garlic powder Salt and pepper Flour
Fill and fold empanadas. Place on a baking sheet and brush with beaten egg. Bake at 400-425° for about 30-40 minutes, rotating about halfway through.
IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIN COSTELLO SMITH
The Monte Rosa trail up Mount Monadnock is considered the "road less traveled" for today's hikers.
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WHEN climbing Mount Monadnock, I like to think of myself as following in the footsteps of the great Transcendentalist writers and philosophers, Thoreau and Emerson. However, if you've ever hiked the popular White Cross trail with its swarms of visitors, you may find that climbing the mountain is far less of a transcendental escape and far more of an experiment in trying to keep your cool while irritable thoughts along the lines of, "is she seriously wearing flip-flops?" loop painfully through your mind. In order to embrace the Thoreau way of life, to "live deliberately,” to "suck the marrow out of life," you know, basically carpe diem to the fullest, my husband and I head to another side of the mountain. We start with the Old Toll Road, continue up to the peak of Monte Rosa, and reach the top of Monadnock via the Smith Summit Trail. Honestly, I have no idea if Emerson or Thoreau took these particular trails. I could probably look it up, but I don't want to know. I prefer to think that I am both symbolically and literally hiking in their footsteps. On this October day, between deep breaths as we hurried up the Old Toll Road, my husband and I couldn't stop remarking on the vibrant blue hue of the autumn sky, the brightness of the changing leaves, and the scent of earth that filled the air. Once on the Monte Rosa trail, we no longer saw other hikers, and were able to descend into the peacefulness of the woods. From the peak of Monte Rosa – well worth the bit of additional effort — we watched the specks of people moving in the distance along the top of Monadnock. Looking down, the immediate evergreens contrasted the colorful changing leaves stretching out across the background. The rolling hills were broken up only by the beautiful lakes, which reflected the cloud-studded sky. A rusted weather vane indicated an elevation of 2,540 feet and spun around at the whim of the wind. After sitting on a warm, craggy stone to appreciate the view, we climbed down a short way before continuing our ascent of Monadnock itself. Blueberry bushes dot the summit trail in late summer and year-round there are golden grasses that push their way through the massive rocks. The peak was no longer in sight, but our excitement was building. » - 55 t.e.l.l. NEW ENGL AND
“
I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived. I did not wish to live what was not life, living is so dear; nor did I wish to practise resignation, unless it was quite necessary. I wanted to live deep and suck out all the marrow of life, to live so sturdily and Spartan-like as to put to rout all that was not life, to cut a broad swath and shave close, to drive life into a corner, and reduce it to its lowest terms.
We were reunited with throngs of people at the summit. It became a rather anxious journey to find somewhere to sit, navigating through the masses of people and jumbles of rocks. It was those rocks that did me in. We were about to head back down, and I wasn’t paying enough attention. As is often the case, I didn't even know I was falling, but suddenly my body was down, partly in a puddle, and I felt embarrassed and in pain. I tried to get up, but, feeling a sharp pain, recognized quickly that my ankle had twisted awkwardly. With a sinking stomach, I realized that my ankle was sprained and that I had to hike, or rather, hobble, down a mountain with an hour of sunlight left. I distinctly remember noticing the setting sun and really beginning to worry about halfway down the mountain. We had a flashlight, but my pain-laden steps were already a tricky balancing act. Yet, just as those fears rushed in, I felt myself pausing and truly appreciating the beauty of the sight before me. I became absorbed in this moment of watching the light surge through the paper-thin leaves, turning them into glowing jewels. So this was how Thoreau and Emerson must have felt. Here was my reminder of Emerson’s now, but very true, statement that "life is a journey, not a destination." It's never about getting to the peak of the mountain, it's about the hike itself. It’s about conquering some fears, about finding yourself, slowing down and noticing nature, about that call to be a part of something bigger than you. I was going to make it down that mountain because I had to, and that was that. In the meantime, I was going to let my worries be overtaken by my awe for nature. We arrived at the Halfway House lookout in time for the end of the sunset. Shades of amber and pink flooded the sky. We stayed and we watched, soaking it all in. And then, we picked up our bags, took one last look, and made our way down the Old Toll Road, my husband shining the flashlight ahead. ◊◊◊
"You must live in the present, launch yourself on every wave, find your eternity in each moment." — Henry David Thoreau
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It is said that Mount Monadnock is ascended by over 125,000 hikers yearly. It is believed that Monadnock is the second most hiked peak in the world, after Mt. Fuji in Japan.
Sunset at the Halfway House Lookout. In 1858, the "Halfway House Hotel" opened on the south side of the mountain, about halfway from the base to the summit. The Toll Road was built to provide service to it.
INDULGE: ROOT VEGGIE CHOWDER
RECIPE AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY KRISTINA O'SHEA
ROOT VEGGIE CHOWDER This simple bowl of chowder is full of deeply earthy, satisfying flavors - it craves a brisk walk in the steely sunshine and a thick cut
4-8
SERVINGS
slice of dark brown bread.
PEPARATION TIME 10 MINS.
COOK TIME 45 MINUTES
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
1 ½ pounds parsnips
Melt ghee in a pan. When it starts to bubble, add
1 ½ pounds turnips
the chopped onion, thyme and a pinch of sea salt.
2 sm.-medium sized potatoes
Sweat the onions until they are translucent. Stir in the garam masala, toast until fragrant, then add
1 large yellow onion. chopped
the bay leaf. Stir everything together then add the
3 sprigs of thyme
washed and chopped parsnips, potatoes & turnip.
1 bay leaf
½ tsp. garam masala
Stir together until well coated in the ghee & spices. Let it cook a few minutes more to blend all flavors. Add your liquid, just covering most of the vegeta-
4 c. whey, water, or light stock
ble tops. Bring to a boil and reduce heat. Simmer
2 c. milk
for about 15 minutes or until turnips, parsnips and
knob of ghee or butter sea salt & fresh black pepper
potatoes are very soft. Liquid should be reduced. Once veggies are done, remove pan from the heat and let cool a few minutes. Using your preferred method, blend into a smooth but still quite textured mixture. Return pan to low heat and add the milk. If you like your chowder a bit thicker, add less milk. Heat milk through but do not scald or boil the milk. Salt & pepper to taste.
COMMUNITY GUIDE
CAMBRIDGE NATURALS: AT THE ROOT OF WELLNESS WORDS BY EMILY KANTER PHOTOGRAPHS BY ASHLEY HERRIN
ONE of my earliest memories is of tearing up and down the aisles of my family’s natural foods grocery store, spray bottle in hand, looking for unsuspecting prey. The spray bottle’s functional purpose was to keep the organic produce fresh and hydrated, but in the hands of a threeyear-old, it was an appropriate tool for eliciting shrieks of surprise from the store’s many staff people, who were like family to me. Growing up, that family business was always the fourth child. My sister, brother and I knew that vacations could be cut short at any minute if say, the store’s refrigeration system broke down, or a manager abruptly quit. We discussed the daily business at length over dinner every night – analyzing everything from the minutia of customer and staff interactions, to what new trends we needed to be following. My parents, Michael and Elizabeth, founded Cambridge Naturals in 1974, when they were just 23 years old. They were pioneers in a burgeoning industry, and developed an intensely loyal customer base over the years. We carried everything from organic produce to bulk foods to vitamin C. The store became known for high quality, gourmet and “real food” ingredients that were harder and harder to find in the 1970’s and 80’s. We created a market for local, organic farmers and natural product makers. Julia Child was a frequent customer. » - 66 t.e.l.l. NEW ENGL AND
Cambridge Natural's mission is to provide the best choices in nutritional supplements for health and wellness, clean body care products & organic foods.
Cambridge Naturals was founded in 1974 by co-founders Michael and Elizabeth (second right, far right). They were both 23 when the store initially opened its doors.
Cambridge Naturals is committed to sourcing products locally, organically and ethically via fair trade and direct trade channels.
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Their commitment to local is very visible within the store. Products made in New England are marked with "Locally Made" signage.
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In the late 1990’s – in part due to intense competition – we shifted the store’s model to focus on natural health and wellness products and removed nearly all the grocery items. The pivot turned out to be exactly the right move, and the business continued to grow and flourish. As we grew, we continued to curate our selection – focusing on as many unique, local, artisan products as possible in order to differentiate ourselves from the chain stores. My parents gained significant industry-wide recognition over the years for their success at keeping a small, local and independent business alive and thriving. As a young child, I loved the business and all intricacies that came with owning it. The staff members were like family, and the store was my playground. As I grew up, however, it started to become a source of personal embarrassment – everything from the “hippie” food I brought for lunch everyday to the fact that we didn’t have the resources for nice clothes or lavish vacations. So much of our energy and money went back into making the business a success. I withdrew from my roots and focused outwards – traveling across the world to find my passion – anywhere but home. It wasn’t until 2008, when a friend handed me a battered copy of Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma, that I truly understood the incredible social and political context that my family’s business fit within – and how my parents were part of a larger, important movement to stem the tide of industrial food and agriculture. Though small in size, the business was an amazing platform for important change.
»
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I didn’t know it at the time, but I would spend the next seven years working my way, across continents and careers, back to Cambridge Naturals. In 2014, my husband Caleb and I moved from our home in Portland, OR to reclaim our New England heritage and transition into ownership of the family business.
If you open any major newspaper to the business section today, the stories focus almost exclusively on two types of companies — giant, multinational corporations, or “disruptive” start-ups. In this day and age, it is a radical thing indeed to return to the city of your birth and work with your parents to grow their thriving, 40-year-old independent business. And yet, every day I am more inspired by the work we do and the opportunity we have to grow the business, increasing our impact over the next 40 years of local, independent ownership. Our relationships with many of our suppliers go back decades, and I see the way those companies honor our longevity. As the maker movement continues to grow, we are also creating new relationships with dozens of independent businesses to sell their unique, artisan goods – everything from local food items to candles to natural body care. As a business owner, I get to tell the stories of those New England makers to our customers, and tap into each maker’s passion for the products they’ve created. We may be small ourselves, but our connection to our local community runs deep and wide. ◊◊◊
Learn more about Cambridge Naturals at www.cambridgenaturals.com
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Emily Kanter and husband Caleb moved home from Portland, OR in 2014 to transition into ownership of familyrun Cambridge Naturals.
NEW ENGLAND'S HISTORIC RUM TRADE
STORY BY KATHERINE HYSMITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY NICK DEVINE
Long characterized by a patriotic distrust of tea and the Imperial shackles that accompanied each sip, New England has, in fact, a more significant relationship with a much stronger spirit. Kill-Devil. Oh be Joyful. Rumbullion. Demon Rum. There were as many names for the spirit as there were ways to drink it. Rarely consumed plain – or neat as we say today – rum was often combined with all manner of tonics including spring water, citrus juices, freshly grated spices, small and dark beers, warmed through with cream, hot butter, or whipped into a frenzy with eggs. And recipes varied from tavern to tavern and house to house. A stone-fence combined rum and hard cider, a rattle-skull with porter, lime, and nutmeg. A flip was made with rum, beer, molasses, and eggs, and stirred altogether with a red-hot fire poker. A callbogus mixed cold rum and beer, a drink called blackstrap was sweetened with more molasses, while switchel, made with vinegar, molasses, and water, became a stronger drink when liberally fortified with rum. Recipes for infamously intoxicating punch were handed down through the generations with a few simple lines of rhyme: “one of sour, two of sweet, three of strong, four of week.” While hesitant to admit to any similarities to their English ancestors, the colonists inherited an insatiable sweet tooth that was cheaply satisfied with molasses purchased from foreign plantations in the West Indies. Molasses – that dark, smoky byproduct born from refined cane sugar – was a ubiquitous flavor of New England life and found in everything from baked beans to humble brown bread. And, of course, rum. »
By the middle of the 17th century, Rhode Island boasted more than two dozen distilleries and Massachusetts had over sixty. Essentially, stills were built wherever molasses was brought to shore. Tied up with the unsavory market of the infamous Triangle Trade, the production of New England rum was both a turning point in transatlantic commerce and a brazen step towards liberty. Using methods handed down from our European ancestors and ingredients procured from the New World, colonists created a profitable niche in 18th century spirit sales. At the peak of its popularity, colonials supposedly consumed more than 5 gallons of rum per person each year, paying mere shillings per gallon. Threatened by this new line of economic independence, the British Parliament imposed a tax of six-pence per gallon on imported molasses, an act that ruffled feathers decades before the Sugar and Tea Acts were ever drafted. Throughout the area, bans and legal measures were passed to limit or halt distillation, but New England’s thirst proved more powerful than the law.
Colonists happily adopted their patriotic posts as rum runners and smugglers, helping the spirit to spread like wild fire and firmly fix itself into New England culture. By the end of the century, it wasn’t tea, of course, that helped light the fire in Paul Revere on that historic night, but a swig of strong Medford rum. All good things must come to an end. Westward expansion into America’s Great Plains eventually gave way to the rise of whiskey. »
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Prohibition hammered another nail into rum’s untimely coffin, leaving New England distilleries dry and locals parched for the spirit that once united them. But something is brewing along the New England coastline once again. From the shores of Portland, Maine to the rocky cliffs of Newport, Rhode Island, and dotted along the historic springs and river valleys throughout the area, rum distilleries – both old and new – are popping up once again, taking full advantage of our Nation’s affinity for heritage libations and crafting spirits like its 1792. That is, they employ the same methods that their forefathers once used – cane sugar or molasses base, copper pot stills, and barrel aging. Firmly grounded in history with detailed backstories, honorific titled rums, and founders set on doing things the hard way, many of these distilleries are producing their spirits with New England agricultural products and returning any byproducts, like mash, back to local farmers to complete an economic and environmental cycle older than our own nation. A feat worthy a toast or two. »
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TURKEY SHORE DISTILLERIES IPSWICH, MA
BULLY BOY DISTILLERS BOSTON, MA
23 Hayward Street, Ipswich, MA
35 Cedric Street, Boston, MA
Make: Lab & Cask Reserve Rum (86 proof), Old Ipswich “White Cap” Rum (80 proof), Old Ipswich “Tavern Style” Rum (80 proof), Old Ipswich “Greenhead” Spiced Rum (80 proof), Old Ipswich “Golden Marsh” Spiced Rum (80 proof).
Make: White Rum (80 proof), Boston Rum (80 proof), Hub Punch (70 proof)
PRIVATEER IPSWICH, MA 28 Mitchell Rd, Ipswich, MA
GANDTEN BOSTON, MA 383 Dorchester Ave., Boston, MA Make: Medford Rum (80 proof)
Makes: True American Rum (90 proof), Silver Reserve Rum (80 proof)
NEW ENGLAND DISTILLING PORTLAND, ME
DUNC'S MILL ST. JOHNSBURY, VT
26 Evergreen Drive, Portland, ME
622 Keyser Hill Road, St. Johnsbury, VT
BERKSHIRE MOUNTAIN DISTILLERS SHEFFIELD, MA
Makes: Maple Rum (70 proof), Elderflower Rum (70 proof), Backwoods Reserve Rum (80 proof)
Makes: Eight Bells Rum (90 proof)
356 South Main Street, Sheffield, MA
MAINE CRAFT DISTILLING PORTLAND, ME 101 Fox Street, Portland, ME Makes: Queequeg Spiced Rum (90 Proof), Ration Rum (90 Proof), Tashtego White Rum (80 proof)
Makes: Ragged Mountain Rum (80 proof)
SEA HAGG DISTILLERY NORTH HAMPTON, NH 135 Lafayette Road, North Hampton, NH Makes: Sea Hagg Silver Rum (80 proof)
TRIPLE EIGHT DISTILLERY NANTUCKET, ME 5 Bartlett Farm Road, Nantucket, MA Makes: Hurricane Rum (88.8 proof)
NEWPORT DISTILLING COMPANY NEWPORT, RI 293 JT Connell Road, Newport, RI Makes: Thomas Tew Single Barrel Rum
FLAG HILL DISTILLERY LEE, NH 297 North River Road, Lee, NH Makes: Flag Hill White Rum (80 proof), Flag Hill Spiced Rum (80 proof)
RYAN & WOOD DISTILLERIES GLOUCESTER, MA 15 Great Republic Drive, Gloucester, MA Makes: Folly Cove Rum (80 proof)
INDULGE: DRINKS FROM THE PAST
RECIPES SHARED BY KATHERINE HYSMITH PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENN BAKOS
RUM FLIP 1
It's said that the Flip started appearing in Taverns in the 1960's and quickly became a wildly popular drink shared by Colonials
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in Taverns across the land. The most revered Flips were typically mixed in a pitcher and then whipped into a frothy liquid by plunging a hot fire poker into the pitcher...though we don't recommend the use of fire & alcohol. You can get a similar texture and mixture
PEPARATION TIME 5 MINS.
by repeatedly pouring the drink back and forth between glasses.
COOK TIME 5 MINS.
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
2 oz rum
In a small bowl whisk together the rum, egg, and
1 egg 1 tablespoon molasses 12 oz. ale Freshly grated nutmeg
molasses. Pour into a tall heat-proof drinking vessel (like a glass beer mug) and set aside. Set a small saucepan over low heat, add the ale and gently bring to a low simmer. When the ale is heated through, gently pour over the rum-egg mixture in the glass, then pour the same mixture back into the saucepan. Continue pouring back and forth to create a frothy consistency, ending with a final pour back into the glass. Top with a bit of freshly grated nutmeg and drink.
STONE-FENCE This simple drink dates back just as far as rum has been produced in the states, and is really a staple from the times of America's
1
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earliest settlers. This beverage is said to have been established because of the foul tasting alcohol home-stills produced. Simply cutting the rum with cider improved the drink ten-fold.
PEPARATION TIME 5 MINS.
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
2 oz rum
In a chilled pint glass, add the rum and bitters and
Splash of bitters 12 oz. hard cider, chilled
top with the hard cider to mix. Serve immediately and enjoy!
RATTLE SKULL The term Rattle Skull is said to be English slang for a "chatty person." We can guess this is so named because of the proportations
1
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of alcohol to non-alcohol that make up this beverage. One drink and you'll likely be talking up the whole bar. PEPARATION TIME 5 MINS.
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
3 oz. rum
In a chilled pint glass, add the rum, brandy, and lime juice and top with the porter to mix. Top with freshly grated nutmeg. Enjoy!
1 oz. brandy (optional) Juice from half a lime 12 oz. porter or other dark beer (we’re partial to Mayflower Brewing Co. Porter), chilled Freshly grated nutmeg
COMMUNITY GUIDE
SNUG HARBOR FARM WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS PROVIDED BY STEPHANIE PILK
DRIVING
along Route 9 in Kennebunk, you might just miss Snug
Harbor Farm. But if you look closely, you’ll catch a glimpse of it’s historic outbuildings or one of the ponies grazing, and you’ll know instantly that there is a bit of magic on this farm. As you wander the property, including five greenhouses, a shop, a barn, nursery and growing fields, you’ll immediately feel the past all around you. The farm goes way back and there's evidence everywhere, including photos and notes scrawled on the boards of the milking shed walls. The farthest back current owner Anthony Elliott has been able to trace the farm’s history is 1850, when a retired, Dutch sea captain, built the barn and house which currently is inhabited by the shop (and perhaps a ghost or two). At the turn of the nineteenth century, the Dutchman sold the property to Clifford and Belle for one dollar. It was a gentleman's farm where they raised their family. Clifford added the milking shed and two porches off the front of the house. The roadside stand was also built and was used to sell some of their vegetables, milk, as well as Belle's pies. Tony Elliott found his way to Maine after studying agronomy, the science of raising plants as food, at Ohio State University. He felt immediately at home here and found himself far more interested in landscape design than feeding people, at that time. He was enthralled with the natural topography and used his designs to reflect the most compelling elements: stone and looming woods across wild fields, from highly cultivated into the wild. » ◊◊◊
Traces of the past: notes scrawled on the boards of the milking shed walls.
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Snug Harbor Farm is made up of five greenhouses, a shop, a barn, nursery and growing fields. The farm dates back to 1850 when the barn & house (now the shop) was originally built.
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Elliot, who humbly calls himself a “landscape gardener”, purchased Snug Harbor Farm in 1998 from Clifford and Belle's grandson to raise and collect unique plant material for his projects and clients. Elliott's reputation as a skilled designer grew out of his love of the very classic English garden, which has evolved and morphed into his own New England Farm Garden style. Immersion into the tough climate and tricky growing seasons has informed his designs. He utilizes indigenous stone and more defined structure close to the buildings they surround, featuring halls and rooms, established with heirloom and privately cultivated plants, that lead out to wilder, more organically planted spaces. In addition to developing greenhouses he has also brought beloved birds and animals back to Snug Harbor Farm. Elliot has collected decorative peacocks, there are several varieties of chicken, ducks, pheasants and an aviary in the office that houses a flock of songbirds. Tony jokes about being a “birdaholic”. . “Hi, my name is Tony. It's been three weeks since I last bought a bird.” One needs a good sense of humor when staking your claim on working the land and raising animals. »
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There is a palpable sense of humor at Snug Harbor Farm. Visually, it lives in the fanciful topiaries, miniature horses, and a lively pack of poodles that devotedly follow their master around. Never one to rest on his laurels, Elliott has broadened his horizons by raising bees and making his own delicious honey at nearby Ward Brook Farm. And he lovingly restored another house and barn for himself and a f lock of Suffolk sheep. It turns out he does like a landscape designed around the function and beauty of a farm, most of all. It can be heart-stoppingly beautiful and provide all kinds of nourishment for the body and soul. It just takes a tight team and a little bit of time, blood, sweat and tears. The future holds great possibilities and excitement at Snug Harbor Farm. The coming year is stacked with workshops and art openings featuring a wide variety of work appreciated by the unique eye of Tony and his well-chosen staff. They will teach lessons in bonsai, building mixed containers of plants, f loral design, as well as paintings and pottery, making Snug Harbor Farm it's own cultural salon where art meets the land. Good things are growing at every turn. ◊◊◊
Learn more about Snug Harbor Farm at www.snugharborfarm.com
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24 KARAT GOLD CARROTS RECIPE BY LAUREN MCGRATH PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENN BAKOS
24 KARAT GOLD CARROTS 4-6
This recipe pays homage to the carrot; a root vegetable that is rich in beta carotene, a compound that may reduce cancer and
SERVINGS
heart disease. It's also packed with Vitamin A, which helps boost vision and bone growth, among other benefits. In addition to being healthy and nutritious, this recipe is also hearty, delicious and rich in flavor!
PEPARATION TIME 10 MINS.
COOK TIME 25-40 MINS.
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
24 small carrots, tops removed, cleaned and dried
Clean and dry carrots, remove tops and set aside.
¼ cup coconut oil
bowl of hot water to soften. In a small bowl, mix
1 Tbls sea salt
Put rubbed carrots onto parchment lined baking
¼ cup raw honey 2 teaspoons turmeric powder
½ inch grated fresh ginger
Melt oil in microwave or put glass jar of oil in a oil and sea salt. Rub carrots with salt and oil mix. sheets and roast in a 400 degree oven for 25-40 minutes until tender and just starting to brown. While carrots are roasting, make the sauce. Com-
(or 1 tbsp. ginger powder)
bine honey, turmeric, ginger and lemon juice in a
Juice of 1 lemon
mason jar in a mason jar or bowl. Stir or shake to combine. When carrots are done roasting, remove from oven and transfer to a side dish. Spoon sauce over hot carrots. Season with additional sea salt if needed. Serve warm or at room temperature. Enjoy!
TO A NEW (ENGLAND) WOMAN POEM AND ILLUSTRATION BY LENNIE NEWMAN
Pour a glass and toast to our youth. A glass for the years of desperate sisterhood, helpless romance and endless love, twilight epiphanies, the downward scrape to the bone, gleeful stamping on the grapes of our wrath. A glass to celebrate the infamous, the tortuous. Remember the tremendous heat of running naked through the fields at dusk. We found shelter in the clipped woods, mesmerized by our skin, the hollows of our armpits, the shapes of our breasts. Remember Paris— a cafe tucked in a teeming square, where a girl brimming with lust crushed three pills with the back of her spoon. The world was impossibly clear. We ran through parks, carpeted corridors, Spanish churches, slamming doors, the tips of our fingers screaming for help. We plunged deep into love with boys who hid behind jerseys and foul mouths.
Evening strolls before curfew bred the wild creatures of the night, stifled moans from the depths of bushes pulsing with heat. Steeped in wretched glory, we lost our minds and our bodies. They splintered into page numbers, sweat, magna cum laude. Raise your glasses. Smell the elixir of our past, as we now decipher the nose, note, flavor, finish. Raise them higher. Wink with the wobbling of the flesh under your arms, lick the razor’s edge of the gold sunk at the knuckle. Now, friends, vestiges of a thousand futures shimmering with the gravity of success, let us toast these seasons of divine youth, let us drown our tongues.
PROFILE OF A NEW ENGLANDER
SHE-WOLF WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS PROVIDED BY FOXFIRE BUCK
I am four years old, and I’m lying on a pile
alternative way of life – running barefoot
of old, damp life jackets. I’m half asleep,
through the small town of South Bristol,
lulled by the smell of the salt and the
Maine, or playing in a secondhand pink
rocking of the ocean beneath my mother’s
dress on the turquoise painted, plywood,
wooden skiff – the She-Wolf, it’s called.
living room floor, content with nothing
Equipped with nothing more than an old
more than a live lobster as my baby doll.
Johnson 8 horsepower outboard motor
This life I come from, this rugged, Maine
and a set of questionable emergency
life, has never left me. When my mom
oars, this boat is my second home. Every
moved from South Bristol to a small
morning at four o’clock, my mom gently
island off the coast of Portland – Cliff
picks me up and carries me to the black
Island, the farthest out that Casco Bay
beat-up Ford pickup that serves as our
Lines services – I left my childhood in that
transportation to and from the shore,
small house on the gut, on that insular
the grocery store, my dad’s house. She
peninsula in Maine, but found growth
smells like herring. Her white boots and
and expansion in a new island life.
her orange Grundens bibs are her work uniform, and we are on our way to the
I didn’t leave all that I had learned from
office. Her office is the ocean, my daycare.
those early stages of my childhood – my independent ideals, my unique upbring-
These formative mornings on the sea
ing, my strong mother, my resilience.
with my mother, a native Maine lobster-
There has been a gentle tug, pulling
woman, have shaped me in intangible
at me, ever since I left Maine. After six
ways. My mother, really, has shaped me.
long years away from my home, I could
Strong, independent, well-educated…dif-
no longer ignore what has turned from
ferent. She named me Foxfire – an action
a tug in a gentle breeze into a full-blown
indicative of her nonconformist tenden-
Nor’easter. Roots are funny that way,
cies, I would say. People would judge our
always pulling you home.
◊◊◊
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THE ART OF LETTER WRITING: OF NOTE STATIONERS AN AFTERNOON WITH KATE & ISABEL, OF NOTE STATIONERS STORY BY MANDI TOMPKINS PHOTOGRAPHS BY ASHLEY HERRIN
SINCE the time when pen and paper were our only means of correspondence, receiving a letter has been a celebrated affair. To this day, there is a thrill in opening the mailbox to find a letter with your name on it. Not a bill or junk mail, but a true letter sent from the heart. There is something about the time spent on these notes, the anticipation in receiving them, and the personal nature that makes them so special. Today, there is still a small but dedicated community of sentimentalists who embrace the true art of formal, hand-written correspondence. Two such people are Isabel Bonenfant and Kate Kellman, the co-founders of Of Note Stationers. The two grew up writing and receiving letters, and over the years have fallen in love with the sentiment behind each one. Kate fondly remembers the fine calligraphic letters she would receive from her Grandfather in the mail, and credits him with the dedication she has today to keeping the tradition alive. All the way through the mid-nineteenth century, letter writing was commonplace in our society. But as new forms of technology have established themselves in our culture, the roots of traditional letter writing have slowly withered away. Communication today is overwhelming, with information constantly flowing through e-mail, but in large part it’s “here today, gone tomorrow.” A message from a friend, or a sweet love note is too quickly forgotten when it becomes buried under spam, bills, and career-related e-mails. Enter Of Note, modern day pioneers of the handwritten word, who are determined to keep the art of letter writing alive. They believe that letter writing is a mindful act that allows people to “slow down, appreciate the little things in life, and share the appreciation with others.” Their mission is to connect people and deepen relationships through the handwritten word.
»
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Pieces of handwritten history: Kate finds inspiration in the letters and hand-written notes that her Grandfather once penned.
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Of Note Stationers are modern day pioneers of the handwritten word and determined to keep the art of letter writing alive.
“Our goal is to brighten someone’s day, and to connect with people through letter writing. The act of sitting down and noting something is very reflective and therapeutic. You’re saving a moment, and then sharing that moment as well. Letter writing has a strong power to connect people and deepen relationships through the written word,” says Kate. Of Note was born in Boston, after the two women met through mutual friends at the Massachusetts College of Art and Design. Kate, originally from California, and Isabel from Guatemala, discovered their mutual hobby of sending notes “just because” and collecting the many notes they had received. Both were in dire need of a creative outlet outside of their day jobs. The company originally started as an Instagram account, where they chronicled all the letters they sent and received. This passion then transformed into a business designing custom cards, and soon after into a full-blown, one-of-a-kind stationery shop. A key partner in Kate and Isabel’s mission to keep the art of letter writing alive is Mike Dacey of Repeat Press in Somerville, Massachusetts. Repeat is a letterpress studio focused on bringing everything from packaging to business cards to life using centuries-old production methods and machinery, and a “dash of modern technology.” They were a natural fit for Of Note, bringing their simple, stunning cards to life using traditional presses. All of Repeat’s presses were built between 1920 and 1960, and all have origins within New England, from Rhode Island to Western Massachusetts, and even one press purchased from an art teacher at a Brookline, Massachusetts school. »
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Of Note Stationers found a fitting business partner in Repeat Press, a letterpress studio in Somerville, MA.
All of Repeat’s presses were built between 1920 and 1960, and all have origins within New England, from Rhode Island to Western Massachusetts.
Combined with their local printing partner, Of Note has already begun to make an impact on the New England community. They currently sell their stationery in Black Ink, a shop with locations in Beacon Hill and Harvard Square, and all of their designs are available on their website. (www.ofnotestationers.com). Most recently they collaborated with Kristin Texeira to create one-of-a-kind, hand-painted letterpress-printed memory cards. The cards truly bring the mission to life, using letters to “illuminate and preserve the magic of every day.”
“
Our goal is to brighten someone’s day, and to connect with people through letter writing. The act of sitting down and noting something is very reflective and therapeutic. You’re saving a moment, and then sharing that moment as well. Letter writing has a strong power to connect people and deepen relationships through the written word.
As our culture continues to develop new, impersonal technology, and we move further away from our roots, Isabel and Kate will continue to encourage their community to embrace the art of letter writing. It is through this correspondence that only letter-writers will stay authentically connected and preserve memories. ◊◊◊
Learn more about Of Note Stationers at www.ofnotestationers.com
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Isabel Bonenfant and Kate Kellman, the co-founders of Of Note stationers.
“The wine of New England is not a series of successive vintages, each distinct from the other, like the wines of France; it is more like the mother-wine in those great casks of port and sherry that one sees in the bodegas of Portugal and Spain, from which a certain amount is drawn off every year, and replaced by an equal volume of the new. Thus the change is gradual and the mother wine of 1656 still gives bouquet and flavor to what is drawn [today].” – Historian, Samuel Eliot Morison
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Issue 08 | Winter 2015