Bangkok101 Magazine April 2017 by Talisman Media

9-11 M AR CH 2018

RPMIEC • ROYAL PHUKET MARINA PHUKET • TH AILAND T he inau g u ral Ph uke t Food & W ine 2 0 1 8 is t he food eve nt of t h e y e a r . He l d at t he award -w i n n i n g Royal P hu ke t M a r i n a , t he Eve nt w il l s howc a s e t h e ve ry b e s t in g ou rm e t c ui s i n e , w ine s and s p i r i t s , l u xu ry kitche n p r od uc t s and s e rvic e s .

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H o s t V e n ue s

O f f ic ial M ed ia Par tn er

Publisher’s Letter

t’s hard to stay in Thailand for any length of time and not be impressed by the art and artistry that goes into daily life here—both on the grand scale, and in some of the smallest details. Stunning landmark structures in Bangkok such as the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) are jaw-dropping and eye-popping at the same time, but even the humble market merchant displaying fried fish for sale often presents his or her wares fanned out in artful precision, as though they too are objects of beauty. The scope of Thailand’s art milieu extends in many directions, encompassing textiles, handicrafts, tattoo artistry, costume design and, of course, fine arts. Even modern architecture is able to flex a few muscles in this town, as evidenced by the pixelated deconstructivist façade of the recently unveiled MahaNakhon building, and the futuristic sci-fi swoop of the soon-to-be-opened Park Hyatt hotel (scheduled to begin operations in mid-May). However, one of the best ways to get a sense of what’s truly going on in the minds of Bangkok’s creative cadre is to dive into the local gallery scene. To help, our special arts coverage feature (starting on pg. 14) takes an in-depth look at the various museums, art and photo galleries, art showrooms, and pizza parlours(!) that showcase artists—both local and international. Our sister publication, the Bangkok Art Map (www.facebook.com/bangkokartmap) provides info about the city’s art scene, and this month BAM celebrates its 10th anniversary (see our cover)! Of course, we also have many other informative articles in this issue, including a travel showcase on Isaan (pg. 42), and a special Songkran holiday feature (pg. 62). All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101. Enjoy. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence Publisher info@talisman.asia.

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

A PR I L 2017 | 5

CONTENTS 22

CITY PULSE 10

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in and around Bangkok

My Bangkok Meet Jeremy Opritesco, the man behind YenakArt Villa

Best of BKK Exploring the city’s ever-evolving art scene

Gallery Profiles BACC; MOCA; The House of Lucie; Kathmandu Photo Gallery; River City Gallery

Making Merit How Sathorn 11 Art Space and Gallery Pizza support local artists

Out & About Exploring the creative environment of Khlong Bang Luang Artist Village

Made in Thailand Opera Siam pushes artistic boundaries

SNAPSHOTS 32

Tom’s Two Satangs On Kuhn Chang Kuhn Phaen, a work of classical Thai literature

Bizarre Thailand The Masseuse Murders—a true crime TV doc profiling a Thai serial killer

36 38

Joe’s Bangkok Urban development puts the squeeze on the Hokkien Chinese Cemetery Very Thai Gates & grilles—marking boundaries beautifully

40 Heritage A look at P. Tendercool’s design showroom and Bangkok’s new Creative Arts District

On the cover

As the Bangkok Art Map celebrates its 10th Anniversary this month, this colourful collage looks back on some of the amazing art shows that have been “covered” by BAM over the past decade. Design by Thanakrit Skulchartchai

TRAVEL 42

Isaan 101 In this special 20-page travel destination feature we explore Thailand’s Northeast

Focus on Isaan It’s an enigma why Thailand’s vast Northeastern region is a place most tourists never visit

46 51

Focus on Loei Open spaces, mountain greenery, and two annual ghost festivals

Focus on Buriram Thailand’s new sports capital

55 58

Focus on Nakhon Phanom & Sakon Nakhon Two provinces exhibiting many Indochinese influences

Upcountry Now Songkran celebrations across the Kingdom

Focus on Korat Historic remains and groovy 70s temples

Focus on Khon Kaen From performing king cobras to life-size dinosaurs

ART & CULTURE 64

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

Cinema Scope This month’s film news and screenings

Photo Feature Thai postage stamps as an art form

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | A PR I L 2017

bangkok101.com

CONTENTS 82

FOOD & DRINK 76

Food & Drink Updates

Meal Deals Special Easter and summer promotions for diners

Hot Plates The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn

Special Feature Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017 awards

Restaurant Reviews Aldo’s; Nowhere BKK; Nippon Kai

Breaking Bread With Jeriko Van der Wolf from Cocotte Farm Roast & Winery

Eat Like Nym Joom Mango Sticky Rice

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE 96

Nightlife Updates

Bar Reviews Comparing Thai-brewed beer at Goldencoins Taproom and 3 Bears Craft Brewery

100

Connoisseur’s Corner Wine news and events in and out of Bangkok

102

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

ART DIRECTOR

Narong Srisaiya

LIFE+STYLE 106

Lifestyle Updates

108

Spa Products Protect your skin with these natural skincare brands

109

Spa Review Lavana Grand

SIGNING OFF 118

Did You Know?... The Muse Pass offers access to 40 museums and learning centres across Thailand

Tom Vitayakul, Annaliese Watkins, Nadia Willan

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Thanakrit Skulchartchai

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

PUBLISHER

STRATEGISTS

Mason Florence

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Parinya Krit-Hat

Jim Algie, Robin Banks, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwell-Smith, Stan Gayuski, Ralph Kiggell, Chris Michael, Gary Anthony Rutland, Trevor William Scott, Lekha Shankar, Marc Schultz, Samantha Proyrungtong, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Craig Sauers, Dave Stamboulis,

MANAGING EDITOR

Bruce Scott EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings WRITER & DIGITAL EDITOR

Julia Offenberger EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Phen Parkpien Anansit Sangsawang

Sophie Badens, Marc Schultz GENERAL MANAGER

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

109

SALES MANAGER

Orawan Ratanapratum SALES AND MARKETING

Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon SALES EXECUTIVE

Thipthida Sorrapim Hatsawan Nontapadol DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Pimpimol Leetrakul

PUBLISHED BY

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CITY PULSE | metro beat

APRIL’S HOTTEST TICKETS April 7

SONGKRAN

British rock royalty Coldplay are coming to Bangkok this month as part of their Head Full of Dreams tour. This will be the band’s first visit to Thailand since 2003, and they will be playing for one night only at Rajamangala Stadium (286 Soi Seri, Hua Mak). Formed in 1996 by vocalist and keyboardist Chris Martin, along with Jonny Buckland (lead guitar), Guy Berryman (bass) and Will Champion (drums), the group has won seven Grammy awards and sold over 80 million records worldwide throughout their career, making them one of the world’s best-selling bands. They are best known for their massive hits including “Yellow”, “Viva La Vida”, “The Scientist”, and “Hymn for the Weekend”. Tickets are priced at B1,800, B2,500, B4,500, B5,500, and B6,500. www.thaiticketmajor.com

ITALIAN FESTIVAL IN THAILAND April 13-15

The world’s wettest and wildest water fight is back! It’s time once again for Songkran, the Thai New Year, to take over the Kingdom. Get ready for three (at least) days of fun and games, and lots of watery shenanigans. In Bangkok it will no doubt be party central on Khao San Road and on Silom Road near Lumphini Park, but don’t be surprised if the celebrations are just a tiny bit subdued compared to previous years (due to the King’s passing last October). See page 62 for more on the history of Songkran.

COMIC CON April 21-23

If you can’t afford tickets to Coldplay (see above) you can make up for it with plenty of “cosplay” at the Thailand Comic Con 2017. The location for this year’s gathering of anime enthusiasts and comic book geeks will be the Royal Paragon Hall at Siam Paragon (991 Rama 1 Rd). For three full days, starting at 10am and continuing till 9pm, get ready for a mall full of heroes, heroines, and various caped crusaders. www.thailandcomiccon.com 10 | A PR I L 2017

April 4

The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (939 Rama 1 Rd) hosts Massimiliano Finazzer Flory who will present Being Leonardo Da Vinci. An Impossible Interview. Witness Leonardo Da Vinci’s true life portrayed on stage, and discover the story and secrets behind the famed painter, scientist, and inventor. Through the format of the “impossible interview”, the playwright becomes Leonardo “physically”, wearing period costumes and makeup that presents a true reconstruction of the face of this infamous Renaissance genius. Start time is 7pm and admission is free.

April 26

Music fans will appreciate a rare appearance by the Marco Guidolotti Jazz Quartet, who will be performing a free concert at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Marco Guidolotti is an excellent saxophonist and in this performance he will pay tribute to the great music of Gerry Mulligan and trumpeter Chet Baker. Don’t miss the evening of joyful, swinging jazz. Showtime is 7pm.

April 28

The Chulalongkorn University Music Hall (254 Phayathai Rd) will be the scene of an experimental musical performance by Cristiana Pegoraro, performing solo piano with virtual background by Mino La Franca. Pegoraro is considered one of the best role models for a new movement in classical music, and her recitals draw huge audiences worldwide. She will collaborate with award-winning photographer, artist, and illustrator Mino la Franca who will accompany her music live with a series of images that create a virtual scenography. Start time is 7pm and admission is free. For more information about upcoming Italian Festival in Thailand 2017 events visit the official Facebook page at: www.facebook.com/italianfestivalthailand bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

RIVER CRUISE April 8

The Karma Klique team are back, spreading good vibes along the mighty Chao Phraya River. Drifting past ancient temples and Bangkok’s shimmering skyline, this month’s sunset Karma Kruise will present a soundscape provided by some of the best DJ talent from across Southeast Asia—including Ocean Lam from Hong Kong, and Sunju Hargun from Thailand. In addition, proceeds will go towards the ‘Stop the Smoke’ campaign, working to tackle the devastating effects of burning crop waste in Chiang Mai. The cruise runs from 4pm to 8:30pm, and tickets are priced at B1,100 (includes one drink, and admission to the after party at Whiteline, on Silom Soi 8). www.facebook.com/karmaklique

EDM MUSIC FESTIVAL Wankelmut

April 22

Party people take note: get set for a sound that will make your body wobble and a light show that will take you to another dimension when the Kolour Warehouse Party touches down at Tigger Twins Studio (5, Ramkhamhaeng Soi 32, Ramkhamhaeng Rd, Hua Mak). This spectacular indoor/outdoor 10-hour event features an Oktoberfest beer garden, food trucks and craft beer, and unlimited free Singha beer between 3pm and 4:30pm. Scheduled acts include Wankelmut (Berlin), and Breach (UK), as well as local acts Alex Fischer, Chote, Coran, and Gramophone Children. The event runs from 3pm till 1am, and tickets are B800 in advance and B900 at the door. www.eventpop.me/e/1022-kolourwarehouse

HEALTH & WELLNESS April 22

Yogatique (Sukhumvit Soi 23) welcomes Rhodielyn Padilla to Bangkok to share her expertise on nutrition. Rhodielyn is certified in Holistic Nutrition, a graduate from the Canadian School of Natural Nutrition, and her workshop promises to change your perspective on food and holistic dietary practices. The class runs from 2pm to 3:30pm and admission is B1,000 per person. www.facebook.com/yogatiquebangkok

SPOKEN WORD PERFORMANCE April 29

The folks at Bangkok Lyrical Lunacy present SoulVilla, a theatre production featuring Bangkok’s most prolific poets, collaborating with the best of Bangkok’s musical talent, bringing a fusion of poetry and music unlike any seen in this city. The focus of this production, directed by dancer-poet Aarti Saikia, will be the ancient, but familiar, tale of unlikely love and peace blossoming between two enemies. The show takes place in the auditorium of the Alliance Française de Bangkok (179 Witthayu Rd), and showtime is 8pm (pre-show cocktail reception at 7pm). Tickets are B750. www.ticketmelon.com bangkok101.com

EASTER SUNDAY April 16

Although it’s not a major event in Thailand, there’s still enough of a European expat community in Bangkok to make Easter Sunday a “slightly” big deal. Look for meal deal specials— featuring ham, turkey, and chocolate treats for the kids—at some of the big name hotels and international restaurants (see pg. 78 for more).

FOOD & WINE April 2

Bring an appetite to the charity cookout at Smokers Grill & Bar in the Rot Fai Night Market Ratchada (behind The Esplanade shopping centre on Ratchadapisek Rd). The event will help raise funds for Courageous Kitchen, a small non-profit organization providing direct aid for survivors of trauma and torture, many of whom are asylum seekers with little or no access to healthcare, employment, or schooling. The group also hosts monthly pop-ups and weekly cooking classes open to the public. www.courageouskitchen.org

April 2

The first ever Bangkok Natural Wine Festival will be held at About Eatery (Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit Soi 21) from 11am to 7pm. This event will feature the most exciting collection of natural, organic and biodynamic wines ever assembled in Thailand. Tickets for the festival are B500 (limit of 200 tickets) and admission includes 50 wine selections to taste, along with fine artisanal food products to sample. See more about this event on pg. 100. www.abouteatery.com A PR I L 2017 | 11

CITY PULSE | my bangkok

Jeremy Opritesco

Born in France, Jeremy Opritesco was raised in a family of artists but spent 15 years of his professional career as a French diplomat, with postings in Berlin, Tel Aviv, New York, and Bangkok. Nowadays he pursues his twin passions—cuisine and art—and his stage is the beautiful YenakArt Villa gallery. When did you open YenakArt Villa and why did you choose that space? YenakArt Villa opened in 2015. My business partners and I were looking for the kind of space not yet existing in Bangkok—a beautiful building, with strong character and a garden, and not just a room to hang artwork. My opinion is that an art gallery needs to offer an “experience”. The building we found offered plenty of open space, and with the large glass façade you don’t have the impression of being in a bunker. In daylight artworks look different, sometimes revealing a different aspect of the talent of the artist. Another important aspect is the five meter high ceiling and the 180 sq.m of surface space. It’s the perfect size… not too big, not too small. What do you look for when choosing an artist to exhibit in your gallery? I am always looking for a mix, for a balance. On one hand, the artwork has to be modern, new, edgy, and it has to add something to the history of art. On the other hand, I like the artwork to be aesthetically pleasing, to evoke emotions, and to be inspiring. All of this is, of course, very subjective, but in one sentence I would say I like to exhibit art that I would show in my own home. The second point is the link to Thailand. The priority for me is Thai artists because the gallery is in Thailand, and because one of the main goals of the gallery is to support Thai artists and the Thai art scene. However, exhibiting only Thai artists would be a bit artificial. Art has no boundaries, and I like the idea of mixing cultures and backgrounds. That’s why the gallery is exhibiting international artists as well. But I insist on the artworks having a connection with Thailand: mediums, inspirations, techniques, place of creation, etc. 12 | A PR I L 2017

Another important point for me is my personal connection with the artist. An exhibition is not a one-night stand, but a long term relationship between the artist and the gallery. Neither can grow alone. That’s why I especially like to plan a series of exhibitions with the same artist, and in-between to keep a tight contact.

Where in Bangkok is the best “public art”? The best public art in my opinion is, without a doubt, at the BACC. This institution is getting better every year. It is offering some very edgy exhibitions, sometimes with very big international names. The Jim Thompson art center is another major contemporary art place in Bangkok. In addition, the new Alliance Française building at Lumphini—which initially was not conceived for art exhibitions—is now organizing regular shows, showcasing mostly young and talented Thai artists. The institution also has a very professional cinema, and is hosting all kinds of concerts and events. They’re even starting to organize Michelin star-powered popup dinners. That’s exactly the kind of multi-disciplinary cultural place that a city like Bangkok needs.

What does the future hold? Apart from upcoming shows, there are several ongoing projects I would What do you think of Bangkok’s art like to implement at YenakArt scene in general? Villa. Firstly, a frame, canvas, and I think the potential for contemporary stretcher boutique, with the highest art is huge in Bangkok. All the international standards, which I think ingredients of the cocktail are on the is missing in Bangkok. Secondly, a table: energy, creativity, history and small coffee shop where visitors can culture, serious collectors, artists and leaf through art books and spend art schools, and lots of tourists. The some time on the spot after visiting number of international artists who the exhibition. Thirdly, the garden are making their artist studios here is growing as well, because they find here will become a sculpture garden, with sculptures from different artists, the perfect conditions for creating. There is also a sizeable audience for art including light-sculpture which I exhibitions. I am always surprised to see especially like. Finally, I plan on more than 100 people at every opening having occasional pop-up dinners with different chefs and cuisine. at YenakArt Villa, with very little PR. All these projects will enlarge the And there are always new faces. In my experience of visiting the gallery. opinion the local authorities should interview by Bruce Scott invest in contemporary art. It could be a very important asset for Bangkok’s www.yenakartvilla.com international image. bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Art Appreciation

The Bangkok Art Map (BAM) celebrates its 10th anniversary this month—a fabulous decade spent covering this city’s vibrant art scene

s the late, great Marshall McLuhan once said, “Art is anything you can get away with”. Here in Bangkok the gallery and museum scene lives up to that credo whole-heartedly. Thailand’s taste for eye-popping visuals is evident everywhere you look—from the fanciest Buddhist temples to the vibrant graffiti street art that livens up many a derelict building.

The city’s local art scene has grown impressively over the past decade and the Bangkok Art Map (BAM)—our sister publication here at Bangkok 101—has been there every step of the way. We’ve watched as galleries in the ritzier parts of town began more and more to showcase some fairly “out there” artists, while several fancy hotels started giving over floor space to numerous creative endeavours, such as boutique galleries and art shops. Another notable development has been watching the dozens and dozens of unused and underused buildings in Chinatown prove fertile breeding ground for gallery owners and artists alike who take a more bohemian approach to things. In these tiny quarters the crumbling plaster walls and splintered wooden staircases just add to the overall aesthetic, which makes venues like Cho Why, and Soy Sauce Factory such hip hangouts for Bangkok’s art crowd. And in the past few years “Chinatown” has literally become the byword for those seeking out the city’s artistic beating heart. Alongside these groovy galleries Bangkok is also blessed with a multitude of museums, ranging from the serene and stately, such as the Rattanakosin Exhibition 14 | A PR I L 2017

Hall, to the brazenly bizarre (the Songkran Niyomsane Forensic Medical Museum comes to mind). Meanwhile, institutions such as the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), and the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) bridge the gap between museum and gallery, offering large scale spaces for exhibiting a kaleidoscope of art and artistic styles—often showcasing renowned international artists alongside equally respected Thai artists. Add to this the occasional outdoor art fair, and numerous art and music weekend festivals—such as Wonderfruit, which was staged back in February—and you have no shortage of visual stimuli to choose from. Of course, the artistic mileu in Bangkok, and across Thailand, isn’t restricted to just paintings and sculptures in galleries and museums. Buddhist temples far and wide are bursting at the seams with a breathtaking array of beautifully crafted adornments—from exquisitely carved doorways, windows, and façades, to intricately detailed

Grand Palace mural (detail) wall murals. If you’ve never taken a close look at the magnificent wall murals found at the Grand Palace, then you’re missing out on one of the city’s most impressive art displays. Other art forms are also regarded highly in this country, especially music and dance (see our feature on Opera Siam on pg. 30). Add to that the vibrant colours and patterns found in traditional textiles—including Thailand’s renowned silk industry—and the homespun beauty of traditional handicrafts—the pottery makers of Koh Kret are not to be missed—and you have a kingdom that is a welcoming place for art and artists. All you have to do is open your eyes and look around you. And don’t forget to pick up a copy of BAM to get a head start each month on all the not-to-be-missed art events going on around town. www.facebook.com/bangkokartmap bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

A Galaxy of Galleries Exploring Bangkok’s ever-evolving art scene By Ralph Kiggell

owever much we might wish to package both Bangkok and its art scene, they are slippery organisms that defy easy categorization. And to make any rounded definition of how the current times influence art is problematic, too. As for an identifiable art locus in Bangkok, someone new here would have a tough time knowing where to start. There is no Lower East Side, or Chelsea, or South Bank, or Cork Street, with a concentration of galleries that allows the visitor to stroll pleasantly from one space to the other. Even a glance at the indispensable Bangkok Art Map, while proving that much is happening, might daunt the faint-hearted. The galaxy of galleries and art spaces sprinkled across a vast network of roads and sois carries a sense of impenetrability, especially with the city’s odd transport system to negotiate first. However, what could be said to define the Bangkok art scene is its very scattered nature, not just its physical distribution, but its thematic looseness and its diverse aspirations. Above all, it is the massive multinational, multilayered, multiclass, multivalent metropolis itself that makes the art—when and where you find it—potentially exciting. If one constant of the Bangkok art scene is its amorphousness, then its irrepressibility, even in times of

Alex Face at CityCity Bangkok trouble and strife, is another. According to the vagaries of expectation, fashion, and taste—and more seriously of politics and economics—the scene swells, shrinks and morphs quite dramatically, with galleries closing and opening, alongside stalwarts that stay afloat with generally strong programs and a sustainable cash flow. Brian Curtin, curator and author of the forthcoming book Contemporary bangkok101.com

Art in Thailand, to be published by Reaktion Press, notes that the nascent dynamism of the 1990s art scene which saw the introduction of the lively About Studio/Café, and a citywide staging of the roving international exhibition Cities on the Move in Bangkok, was disrupted by “the 1997 economic crash [that] stalled everything in the city for a few years, including the art scene.” That pattern of disruption has continued over the last 10 years with the wavering, often intensely divided, political situation after the coup in 2006 that ousted the populist oligarch Thaksin Shinawatra, and following further coups in 2008 and 2014 (the latter which now sees the kingdom under military rule). Most importantly, the passing away of a deeply loved and respected king last year has left a sense of vulnerability and greyness that can affect in many ways what artists may want to or wish to describe. Art collector Tom Vitayakul remains upbeat, and admires the fact that so many galleries can continue the business of art. “In the last 10 years the same people keep supporting the art, but there are new collectors, too,” he notes, “and there are art or craft fairs and hotel art fairs that make people approach art, and not just the people who see art regularly.” Others despair, however, that the growing dominance of Thai political life and the economy, by tycoons and Tom Vitayakul the military, only moves the city further towards a bland forgettable cultural milieu— focused primarily on luxury tourism and consumption— which is squeezing out the lifeblood of the city. But upheavals make for interesting times, too, and the art scene here continues to pulse… albeit quietly. With the often-intense political fluctuations of the last decade, there is a lull now where artists have withdrawn to their respective camps to take stock of what is happening. The growth of the right wing has created “a sort-of meltdown”—as Brian Curtin puts it—in relation to the politics of national governance and Thai history and tradition. Presumably, he adds, this is a consequence of the “explicit authoritarianism that has emerged out of the on-going problems of a national history riven by the failures of democratic policies”. A PR I L 2017 | 15

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Jittapoom Aryapitak at Tentacles Henry Tan, director of Tentacles—a collaborative exhibition and art residency—was too young in the 1990s to have experienced About Café, but bemoans the recent closure of Chulalongkorn Art Gallery. He feels that because artists today “have less freedom to express themselves, their works are less political”. Trained as an economist, Tan also knows that output is determined by market support. “Every gallery is trying to reach new audiences, and new collectors and every agent is trying to shake up the art scene,” he says, while noting that even if artists wished to be free of financial constraints, the art scene is always dependent on money. “Because art is a career, you can’t avoid the economy behind it. The gallery needs a business model, and it chooses artists to represent in order to sell art to keep its business going.” Through these odd disrupted times, it is vital that young artists receive the right support to keep the art scene fresh and interesting. A few galleries are altruistically supportive of young talent, but without support from schools, the government, and the media, only a small percentage of art students will succeed as professional full-time artists. “Thailand rarely lacks talented artists,” Tom Vitayakul is quick to point out. “But you have to nurture them.”

THE ART SCENE STALWARTS Despite the ebb and flow of gallery openings and closings, Bangkok has many long-running art institutions. As a civic art space, the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) is an absolute success story for the capital (see our feature story on pg. 20). Close at hand, down a nearby soi backing onto Khlong Saen Saeb, is Jim Thompson House. Built in 2004 its art centre has a mixture of exhibitions—some that describe costume and textile art that have relevance to the silk industry associated with the entrepreneur Jim Thompson—and a series of often pertinent and highly contemporary shows. One of the most interesting exhibitions last year was the superb three-video installation by Korakrit Arunanondchai, which “grappled with big issues, and tried to answer all these big questions about art that might seem outdated, about how an artist speaks to a global and a local audience at the same time”, as one visitor put it. 16 | A PR I L 2017

Several prominent private Bangkok galleries, without access to funding, have successfully negotiated the last decade’s pitfalls to remain comfortably afloat, even thrive. 100 Tonson Gallery is a titan of the Bangkok art scene—a minimalist, modern building centred around one vast white cube with walls big enough for huge art. Over the last few decades, through astute management and with an eye on the international scene, this gallery has survived Bangkok’s ups and downs, and is famously the first one from Thailand to participate in Art Basel, the prestigious, high-end international art fair. Having hosted shows by internationally prominent Thai artists—including Chatchai Puipia, Pinaree Sanpitak, Sakarin Krue-On, and Rirkrit Tiravanija—it also supports emerging talent such as Yuree Kensaku, a Thai-Japanese artist whose attractive cartoonish works (currently on display, until May 21st) successfully pun on popular East Asian imagery.

Yuree Kensaku at 100 Tonson Gallery Numthong Gallery, founded in 1997 by Numthong Sae Tang, originally began as two small rooms in a modest housing cooperative in the Dusit area. With the local and international success of several of its artists, such as Natee Utarit, the gallery has gone from strength to strength with exhibitions representing sometimes controversial giants of contemporary Thai art, including Michael Shaowanasai, Niti Wattuya, Vasan Sitthiket and Kamin Lertchaiprasert. Now housed in a vast hangar of a gallery in the trendy Ari district, the gallery continues to be a “meeting point for co-exhibitions by local and international visual artists”. Numthong Sae Tang Over in the city’s Sathorn area, in a 120-year-old wooden schoolhouse, H Gallery is arguably one of the most beautiful art spaces in Bangkok, and has proven resilient since its establishment nearly two decades ago. With an impressive program that has introduced many young Thai artists to bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE the Bangkok art scene, the gallery has also maintained a solid stable of appealing, sellable art with a roster that includes Sopheap Pich, Somboon Hormtientong and Jakkai Siributr.

Pichit Tangcharoen at Ardel Gallery Further afield, the Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, founded in 2006, is situated on the western side of the Chao Phraya River, nearish to Silpakorn University’s new suburban campus. It’s a spacious modern white-walled art complex that features a generally conservative program serving an established Thai academic coterie, including the owner Thavorn Ko-udomvit. But it has also exhibited the work of several international artists, such as a series of large haunting portraits by Australian artist Godwin Bradbeer in 2009. Ardel has a sister space, the Third Place Gallery (closer to downtown, on Sukhumvit Soi 55) that mounts interesting exhibitions as well. Tang Contemporary Art is an international concern with galleries in Beijing, Hong Kong and Bangkok, where it was first established in 1997. The mothership gallery used to be on Silom Rd, but they’ve recently moved to a large white space on Rajadamri Rd (near Chidlom). Tang states that it is committed to promoting contemporary Chinese art regionally and worldwide, and encouraging a dynamic exchange between Chinese artists and those abroad, but at the same time it collaborates with some of Thailand’s most famous contemporary artists, such as Rirkrit Tiravanija, Navin Rawanchaikul, Sakarin Krue-On and Preeyachanok Ketsuwan. Worth mentioning too—in the context of survival—is the large Sombat Permpoon Gallery, founded in 1979 (it’s one of the oldest in Bangkok). Situated blandly on one side of a parking lot, it has evolved from a bangkok101.com

LIFESTYLE ART VENUES Bangkok is famously a city for purusing pleasure, and Thai socialites enjoy seeing art while they have fun—perhaps trying a new cocktail, listening to music, or even shopping. Gallery openings can be convivial, even glamorous, social events that draw crowds. Tapping into the cachet of art, several entertainment venues in the city double up as cultural spaces featuring art on their walls. This need not be a bad thing at all, in the sense that any encounter with art is better than no encounter. Duke, a whisky-and-cigar members-only club in Gaysorn Plaza, is one of the newest glamour venues showing art. It was founded by a collaboration of Thai entrepreneurs including Tawatchai Somkong, editor in chief of Fine Art Magazine, and has a permanent collection of Thai art dotted around its various spaces, including a large woodcut by Kriangkrai Kongkhanun, and Sakarin Krue-On’s large kitsch sculpture of dancing women. Duke hosts temporary shows as well, such as the recent ‘Selfie’ with jolly accessible paintings by Parichart Suphaphan and Verapong Sritrakulkitjakarn. Meanwhile, the expansive, expensive walls of Eat Me restaurant (Soi Pipat 2) have been given over to Ernest H. Lee, owner of H Gallery, who has, for many years, helped curate exhibitions. The less traditional wall-art of the young Thai artist Patcharapol Tangruen (aka: Alex Face) represent a different type of accessibility. Portraits of a cartoonish rabbit-hatted child named Mardi (inspired by the artist’s daughter), now appear on countless public and private walls around the city. They may lack the grander political motivation of Banksy, on the one hand, but they’ve become well enough known to a lot of people who might otherwise have little exposure to art. Ecstatic Facebook posts attest to Face’s popularity, and in late 2016 his exhibition ‘Alive’ consisted of several paintings, sculptures, and a large mural on the wall of one of Bangkok’s newest galleries, Bangkok CityCity. First founded in 2005, HOF Art is now part of the W District lifestyle mall in the Phra Khanong district. Wichai Poolworaluk (left), founder of W District and president of Woraluk Property Company, set up a project for HOF Art to “saturate this downtown area with artwork, with the aim to bring in not only art schemes created for artists to show their work, but also calling on a local community to devote a space to Thai society at the same time”. Amongst several activities, HOF offers residencies, art and craft workshops, play areas and shopping. Bangkok is also home to several quasi-art spaces—particularly in the riverside Chinatown area—that revolve around drinking and socializing as much as art. Jam Factory (across the river), shophouse-gallery-bars such as Soy Sauce Factory and Speedy Grandma, and the warehouse-style Whiteline (which also holds special screenings of film and video work) are just a few notable names. But perhaps the most interesting shophouse-gallery-bar is WTF in Thonglor. Run by Somrak Sila (right), it has not been afraid to host provocative exhibitions in spite of the prevailing political climate.

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk shop selling framed pictures into a gallery of sorts. Its 2nd floor often has exhibitions, while downstairs are stacks of paintings depicting firm favourites for conservative collectors, such as Thai beauties, Buddhist scenes, and folky landscapes by artists such as Niroj Jarungitvittawat, Pornchai Jama and Panya Vijinthanasarn.

HOLDING THE FORT, PUSHING ABROAD Many Bangkok galleries have been carefully consolidating their home strengths over the last few years, but have also cultivated an overseas presence through programmes of exhibition and exchange, and committed attendance at international art fairs. Only a couple of years old and an impressive giant of a gallery, the Subhashok Arts Centre (SAC) represents a new wave of venues that are moving in on the scene. SAC is a large contemporary space sited in the bosky hinterland of Sukhumvit Soi 39, and fortunate to have the backing of its wealthy eponymous founder, an art collector, who employs well-educated curators to present quite interesting exhibitions. In spring this year, for example, the gallery has the work of rising young artist Thidarat Chantachua, a Silpakorn master’s student, on display till the end of April. Stitched out with a needle and bright threads, her linear descriptions of mosque interiors reference Islamic art and appear at first as dazzling geometric abstractions. One of SAC’s curators, Linjie Zhou from China, says they are keen to have an international presence and that Subhashok actively participates in overseas fairs and shows. She’s positive about the reception of Thai art abroad, and believes that it is increasingly drawing the attention of foreign buyers. “We try to cooperate with other countries, like [those] in Southeast Asia,” she says. “In May, we are going to have a group exhibition Linjie Zhou with four Thai artists and four Indonesian artists. Our short-term future plan is more looking towards Southeast Asia, and getting Thailand included in a Southeast Asian art scene. And promoting Southeast Asian art to the world.” La Lanta Gallery, in a handsome converted townhouse, has survived the bumpy ride of the last ten years, often by energetically pitching works by local and international artists to foreign buyers—both in Bangkok and at art fairs abroad. In 2010, gallery owner Fon Ostick launched the admirable ‘Young Programme’, an initiative “to seek, discover, and promote the work by young artists from countries in Asia”, and “provide a platform for art experiments and new ideas”. The gallery has gone from strength to strength, launching successful careers for artists such as Thanawat Promsuk and Chamnan Chongpaiboon. 18 | A PR I L 2017

Krissadank Intasorn at Number1 Gallery Another gallery that woos foreign buyers is Thavibu Art, which has been selling colourful Thai, Vietnamese, and Burmese art since it was established in 1998. It is now separated into a physical gallery, located in south Silom Galleria, and an online consultancy. The latter’s mainstay are paintings by Thai artists such as Jirapat Tatsanasomboon and Thaweesak Srithongdee, but it also sells paintings by well-established Vietnamese and Burmese artists at overseas auctions. Number 1 Gallery has a large attractive space in the same building as Thavibu Art. Founded a decade ago, it has also participated in regional art fairs and declares a similar mission to bring Thai and international artists together and to promote Thai art abroad. In addition, following its focus on art that is “spiritual and neo-contemporary” it shows well-known Thai artists, including Sutee Kunavichayanont, and Thaweesak Srithongdee, alongside established ‘Senior National Artists’ such as Pichai Nirand, Thawee Ratchaneekorn and Preecha Thaothong. A new ambitious art space in Bangkok, the elegant Nova Gallery in Rajadamri, opened in 2016 under the cultivated guidance of Sutima Sucharitakul, who has spent the last ten years between London and New York studying art and management. Nova has already hosted several gritty exhibitions, with an unusually high concentration of non-Thai artists and non-Thai Sutima Sucharitakul bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE curators. Sucharitakul hopes to more actively exhibit Thai artists and introduce them to both “a growing number of Bangkok’s youth interested in art and culture” as well as to an international art community. Nova’s most recent exhibition is ‘Leaf Walk’, which explores landscape art through collage, sound and mural painting by the young American artist Brendan Lynch. Two other galleries that are happily bringing artists and the public together include Pandora Art Gallery and Kalwit Studio & Gallery. The former, a surprisingly large gallery, is situated on Convent Rd. and shows a mixture of fine art, photography and sculpture by local and international artists—Wipoosana Supanakorn from Thailand, and Jean-Marc Louis from Belgium, to name but two. By contrast, Kalwit, on Soi Ruam Ruedi, is a modest family-run exhibition space that shows paintings and drawings, and is the only venue in Bangkok with an onsite press and a potential emphasis on printed art on paper.

PUSHING BOUNDARIES The incentives to present art in Bangkok swing widely— from an awareness of art as a commodity, to a sincere desire to elevate the cultural life of the city. It’s almost impossible for any project to survive without access to cash, but with or without piles of the stuff, many galleries and organizations seek to promote art regardless. Myrtille Tibayrenc is the initiator and tireless organizer of the city’s ten-day street Bukruk Festival event Bukruk, last held in January of 2016, which features graffiti and wall art, music, and animation. Tibayrenc’s intention to get contemporary art out to a wider public and to bring Bangkokians together is admirable. But Brian Curtin, who runs H Project Space, says that “newer well-funded galleries in Bangkok are (or seem to be) working with a very loose idea of ‘contemporary art’. And there is no dialogue with venues and events in neighbouring countries. This probably speaks to Thailand’s historical degree of independence and a local preoccupation with what it means to be international. “But even in terms of promoting Thai artists, a coherent agenda is difficult to discern,” he adds. “A major gap here, I believe, is the rudimentary use of accompanying education programs, where they exist, and also including gallery-sponsored publications; there is no sense of the discursive life of exhibitions and what it means to mediate and cultivate diverse audiences.” bangkok101.com

Henry Tan, of Tentacles, organizes residencies, exhibitions, cross-cultural discussions, projects, and collaborations, and is part of the N22 venue. “At Tentacles, we invite friends and anyone who is interested to experiment with a project and use our

Peeraya Suphasidh at H Project Space space as a platform, host activities,” he explains. “We want to support young artists and build community with diverse programs and we try to approach institutions to support our residency program so we can send Thai artists abroad. We try to initiate a residency network with other Thai cities, and we are also connected with residency programmes in the region. The network is slowly building.” Part of the current fracturing of art in Bangkok has seen the interesting development of an organic underground movement where artists might take it upon themselves to organize events, such as film screenings. “The underground scene remains interesting and Jam Factory remains, for me, the best, most dynamic space in Bangkok,” remarks Curtin. “I began H Project Space in 2011 because there were no experimental venues then. Today, Cartel and Ver would be the current outstanding spaces in terms of programmes that remain compelling, whether as platforms for experimental Thai artists or unpredictable formats.” To this Tan adds, “I see many galleries coming up with quite interesting shows, interesting in the sense that there is a good vibe, [they are] trying to produce good exhibitions. We see an attempt to reach a wider audience, rather than the same art audience. With a social network platform, young people are more interested and are starting to go to exhibitions. Many interesting projects see artists starting to work with designers, musicians and other professionals, so the processes and outcomes are very fruitful.”

GALLERY GOING Other art galleries not mentioned in this article, but included elsewhere in this issue of Bangkok 101 include: YenakArt Villa (pg 12); Sathorn 11 Art Space (pg. 27); River City Bangkok (pg. 26); House of Lucie (pg. 24); Kathmandu Photo Gallery (pg. 25); and the Museum of Contemporary Art Bangkok (pg. 22).

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre

How this civic haven for contemporary art owes a debt of gratitude to the Thai Artists Network and its supporters

he Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), which opened in 2008, has become the surprising success story of the Bangkok art scene. Visit it any day of the week (except Monday) and you’ll see gaggles of people—locals, tourists, children and students— milling about contentedly viewing art or enjoying the space. It has the cool, light-filled ambience, and soft murmuration of visitors that any civic gallery around the world could wish for. A casual observer might assume this was all par for the course in a city such as this, but in fact, BACC’s existence today is a miracle of perseverance. That there is any

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kind of public art centre in downtown Bangkok is due to the great, great determination of the Thai Artists Network and its supporters. In its modern era (the last 100 years or so), official Thai interest in the arts has been sporadic, or completely absent. There is a national gallery in Sanam Luang, but since it was first mooted in the late 20th century, if not before, the very idea of a municipal art gallery has received fragile or very little state support. How could an affluent metropolis such as Bangkok not have a representative art centre for its citizens, with publicly accessible exhibitions of local and international art and photography? The Thai Artists

Network fought long and hard at every level to get the government to understand the vital importance of art to a society and its ‘intellectual development and creativity’. The story of the BACC reflects the same recent narrative as elsewhere for the arts in Bangkok: setbacks after the stockmarket crash in 1997 followed by years of political upheaval. For the BACC, the situation was compounded by the 2001 appointment of Samak Sundaravej as Bangkok governor, a reactionary with no interest in art, let alone an art gallery for the people. In fact, his intention to have the land already set aside in Pathumwan used instead to build a commercial retail bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

space was the very nadir of state philistinism and corporate narrowmindedness. It was not until the appointment of Apirak Kosayodhin as governor, in 2004, that the art centre was given the green light, with BACC finally opening four years later. A declaration was agreed between the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration and the Art and Culture Alliance, which summed up its perception of the value of art for Bangkok in the final statement: “BACC visualizes itself as a centre of cultural diversity for a sustainable social development.” The building was designed by the regional architect firm Robert G. Boughey, with the specifications that it should “be modern in every respect but … should reference historic or generic Thai forms”. These are vaguely referenced in some sloping walls, slit windows here and there, and “curved profiles on certain roof elements and bangkok101.com

sun screens”. The finished building has 10 floors with the top three being the main galleries and part of the 4,000 sq.m of exhibition space. On five of the floors there are shops, a library, conference rooms, cafés and bookstores, and two further floors underground. But some argue the architecture leaves a lot to be desired. It bears a poor similarity to the spiraling Guggenheim in New York City, several design features could be improved, and it’s a crass case of “enter” through the giftshop, rather than “exit”. However, these are truly churlish points when you remember the remarkable achievement of simply having anything as good as this. The gallery spaces are huge, with suitably high walls to show the biggest paintings, installations, and sculptures—if necessary—and there are powerful industrial lifts hidden at the back to bring up the works.

The central atrium neatly unifies the whole space, and is crowned by a vast skylight that casts a holy glow down to the ground floor. And, most useful of all, it connects directly to the BTS skytrain at National Stadium. The calibre of the BACC’s shows is often excellent, particularly when the centre hosts biennales, travelling exhibitions, and ‘blockbusters’ curated by the likes of Apinan Poshyananda. The most recent show—Sebastião Salgado: The World Through His Eyes—is a wonderful retrospective of the legendary Brazilian photographer, whose extraordinary socialdocumentary works fill the largest gallery. The exhibition drew steady crowds of visitors, and as one visitor said, “The success of this show at BACC is something we should all take heart from. BACC is the highlight of the Bangkok art scene, by no grand design but through happy accidents and interventions.” by Ralph Kiggell A PR I L 2017 | 21

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Museum of Contemporary Art New York has its MOMA, but Bangkok has its MOCA By Lekha Shankar

ot all the art-lovers in Bangkok have been to see and experience the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), which is easily the largest and most comprehensive repository for contemporary Thai art in the city. The reason is, for the most part, its distant location— in the north end of the city near the Don Mueang airport. But after my recent trip there (by the convenient bus No. 13/29, to Kasetsart University) it’s my hope that the museum will become frequented by a lot more people.

MOCA is the brainchild of DTAC telecom magnate Boonchai Bencharongkul, and this magnificent museum is a delirious labour of love for an industrialist who once dreamt of becoming a painter but became an art-collector instead. The space houses more than 800 pieces from his art-collection, including paintings, photographs, and sculptures. And it’s been said that he has several thousand more artworks in storage, which could possibly be displayed on a rotating basis in the future. The billionaire bought the land several years back for B200,000, and spent at least B600,000 constructing this one-of-a-kind art zone (and each of the works on display could cost anywhere from a million baht upwards). The striking design of the milk-white building includes diamond-shaped openings on the walls, a large reflecting pool outside, and full marble “jasmine buds”—which some liken to an explosion of buxom breasts—drooping over the reflective surface of the water. The pieces are both diverse and meaningful, but also ripe with conjecture. Where else would you find arresting side-by-side images of Heaven and Hell, Buddhist monks 22 | A PR I L 2017

and nubile nudes, Hitler and Gandhi, or Obama and Mao? This duality is part of the exciting, multi-layered dimensions of this five-floor museum. But at heart it is totally the vision of one man, with a broad outlook, diverse tastes, and an irresistible sense of humour. There are not too many museums in the country with this tripartite combination. As Boonchai himself has stated, he wanted to “share both wisdom and entertainment, to the audiences!” And so the museum, with its dazzling sense of space and light, takes visitors on a rollercoaster ride of “wisdom and entertainment”. However, Boonchai admits that the current highly unstable political period is “the worst period for Thai art, due to lack of support”. His museum, on the other hand, is proof of the ample support for Thai art, as well as a totally independent outlook and openness of vision—which is why this is a must-see venue.

The first two faces that one encounters, upon entering the museum, are diversely different from each other. The first is Corrado Feroci, the Italian ‘Achan’ who became Prof Silpa Bhirasri (1892-1962), and is described as the “father of Thai art”. The second is the ‘Achan’ of surrealism Salvador Dali, who entices all the viewers to take a selfie with him. This is the starting-point for many selfies ahead. The surprises continue on the 1st floor of the museum. The first figure you encounter is Adolf Hitler(!), and just behind him is the pacifist Gandhi. Nearby—side by side—stands a bewildering mixture of notable names: Stalin, Mao, Ho Chi Minh, Winston Churchill, and Saddam bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE Hussein. That’s when you realize that they are fiberglass Hum Lakorn Lek puppets, showcased under the quizzical title Body Mind Peaceful. At the other end of the huge room are the first images of a Buddhist theme, including the marvellous Nirvana and Three Kingdoms by Chiang Mai’s own Thongchai Srisukprasert. There are also bronze sculptures, a striking mixed media panel called Abacus, and a big red panel by National Artist Kamol Tassananchalee (which was the first artwork purchased by the owner of the museum). These eclectic styles and subjects are what one witnesses on every floor of this unique building. And while Boonchai felt that Buddhism was intrinsic to Thailand, he also believed that it was a religion that had many surrealist overtones. That’s why one encounters so many divergent representations of Buddhism. Images of a serene Heaven and swirling Hell are often juxtaposed side by side, as with the work of National Artist Preecha Thaothang. Another highlight of the museum is its marvellous collection of female nudes, from the ornate Devi series— from nubile contemporary belles, to wrinkled old crones. The subjects of the paintings are as limitless as the artists, and range from Preecha Pun Klum’s Glamorous Night in Bangkok, to Hem Wechakorn’s exclusive paintings of the classic Thai tale Kuhn Chang Kuhn Phaen. The mediums, meanwhile, encompass everything, from oil on canvas to oil on metal, pencil and crayon on canvas, tempera on sa-paper, acrylic on wood with gold leaf, and ink and brush drawings.

There are at least 100 paintings of the owner’s favourite painter, the world-famous Thawan Duchanee from Chiang Rai. Similarly, another section is devoted to Chiang Rai’s other famed painter, Chalermchai Kositpipat (creator of the illustrious Marble Temple). The latter’s traditional and satirical images of Buddhism are well worth a look. Special spaces are also reserved for Chalood Nimsamer and Paitun Muangsomboon, two muchrevered Thai artists. The museum also boasts of many gigantic images, including the largest painting created by Vorasan Supasat—which has a 3-dimensional visage—and the mega artwork entitled Milky Way Gateway by famed artist Alongkorn Lauwathana. Possibly the most striking work in the museum is the one in the last room, entitled Three Kingdoms, which the owner himself commissioned. It’s a bangkok101.com

gigantic triptych by Chalermchai Kositpipat, showing the three worlds—Heaven, Earth, and Hell. On a different note, a painting that interests all viewers is the one of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, entitled The Travelling of King Rama IX, which captures the King’s famed travel procession around the country in 1963. On a personal note, the museum displays a small, lovely portrait of actress Bongkoj Khongmalai, Boonchai’s latest wife. While MOCA displays the works of almost all the Kingdom’s top National Artists, there are also works by painters trained abroad, self-taught artistes, bright young talents like Weerasak Sassadee (with the most striking nude), as well as female artists such as Lumphu Kansanoa. Many of them have had solo shows around the world, some are based abroad, and others are professors in top art universities. The artists also hail from every part of the country—Surin, Chanataburi, Singburi, Pattani, etc. MOCA is, indeed, the repository of the ‘Who’s Who’ of the Thai art world, and should be visited by anyone interested to view the boundless variety of art this country has to offer. The 5th floor, by contrast, is devoted to ‘international’ art, but it’s almost more of a namedropping section. The museum has a few rotating exhibitions and an auditorium for art-talks. Most of their visitors come by word-of-mouth publicity, or through travel websites like Trip Advisor. It is truly a jewel in Bangkok’s artistic crown. And it’s said that the owner visits the museum every month, to check if all the conditions for his artworks are in order— temperature, humidity, and even security—so who knows, you may bump into Thailand’s greatest art patron.

Museum of Contemporary Art, Bangkok

499/50 Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd. | Open: Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm Tel: 02 953 1005 | Admission: B180; Students: B80; Children: Free www.mocabangkok.com A PR I L 2017 | 23

CITY PULSE | photo galleries

Moving Images

Bangkok’s two most pre-eminent photo galleries turn out to be “same same, but completely different” By Trevor William Scott

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Photo © Steve McCurry

s Bangkok continues to grow apace, so does its arts scene. I recently visited two local photo galleries—one relatively new, and one established more than 10 years ago—and came away both excited and amazed at the diversity this city has to offer, and enthused by the respective owners’ differing, yet ultimately shared, vision. Vibrant cities attract vibrant people and Hossein Farwani (pictured) is a prime example of a passionate individual contributing to the ongoing upsurge in Bangkok’s cultural landscape. This personable, Iranian-born philanthropist—who in 2003 founded The Lucie Awards, the Oscars of the photography world—is on a mission to share his love and passion for all things photographic with his adopted home city and its residents. Make your way to Ekkamai BTS station and walk up Sukhumvit Soi 63 until you reach Alley 8, where you will easily spot the gold nameplate and sliding door entrance to The House of Lucie: Center for Photography, Mr. Farwani’s recently opened photo gallery. A flight of stairs takes you up to a veritable ‘Hall of Fame’, as framed prints of many of the 140 recipients of previous Lucie Awards adorn the walls of the first floor hallway that leads up to the gallery proper. Many of the most famous names of 20th century photography are to be found here, including Henry Cartier-Bresson and, perhaps surprisingly for the uninitiated, Jessica Lange (yes, that Jessica Lange). Here lies the non-profit organization’s major role as the “keeper of the flame” of the world’s true photography greats, honouring them and their achievements in changing the world through their collective lenses over the past century. But that’s only part of Mr. Farwani’s goal. “Having fallen in love with Bangkok and its people, I sensed a thirst for knowledge in all its forms and wanted to bring some of my own knowledge and passion here,” he explains. “And in the process, help focus some attention on Bangkok itself.” Another facet of that vision is to make The House of Lucie a true centre for all things photographic, providing a meeting place for people to hang out, exchange ideas,

share and gain knowledge (and look at some of the best the photography world has to offer as well). “Photography changes lives,” he enthuses, “it opens your eyes and nurtures a creative mind.” As he warms to his subject it is difficult not to be caught up in his passion, enthusiasm and positivity. He also believes we are on the cusp of a new wave, one that will integrate East and West. “Thais are coming to the gallery, eager to learn,” he continues, adding that it’s not just tourists and expats who are flocking to see the gallery’s current exhibition of renowned photographer Steve McCurry (an exhibit which has been extended till the end of April). McCurry is best known for the now-iconic National Geographic cover shot of the ‘Afghan Girl’ with the piercing green eyes, and the 2nd floor of the gallery is given over to his work. After bangkok101.com

photo galleries | CITY PULSE viewing it I defy anybody with a beating heart to remain impassive to the images on display. I literally had shivers down my spine as I looked at the stunning, dramatic array, and I challenge anybody to spend 5 minutes in the company of these masterworks and not be moved— possibly even changed—as a result. “We’ve had so many requests from schools in particular,” he beams, rightly proud of the impact this first show at his new gallery is having on the local populace. “Photography is more relevant than ever. Boundaries are broken with photographs.”

work artfully arranged to contrast black and white with vivid coloured prints to provide maximum visual impact. Toward the back of the room is a couch where one can lounge and flick through books or the files of photos with titles that include: Nepal 2007, Italy 1999; Bangladesh; Bangkok; and Chiang Mai.

In Nowhere Land, by Didier Mayhew

Manit Sriwanichpoom, Pink Man series And while The House of Lucie and its passionate, committed owner are certainly helping to break boundaries along the Sukhumvit line, a trip to the Surasak BTS station, followed by a short walk up Pan Road—towards the heart of Bangkok’s colourful, bustling ‘little India’ area—leads to the Sri Mariamman Temple, where you can also find the aptly named Kathmandu Photo Gallery. This little gem of a ‘shop’ has been here since 2006 and is owned and operated by Manit Sriwanichpoom, one of Thailand’s pre-eminent photo-artists (best known for his legendary ‘Pink Man’ series). However, we actually owe Manit’s wife a debt of gratitude for this oasis of creation and contemplation. According to the softly spoken welcoming owner/ curator, it was his wife’s vision and drive that saw them purchase the building shortly after a trip to Nepal over 10 years ago, thus combining their jointly-shared passions for photography and spirituality. He’d never had a desire to open a gallery himself, as he was happy to concentrate on creating rather than curating. “If I was going to have a gallery, I wanted somewhere with a homey feel,” he reveals, unwittingly reflecting his own persona. And Kathmandu is certainly homey. The eye-catching pastel green coloured narrow façade, with its carousel of postcards next to the doorway, draws the eye and positively encourages investigation. Once inside, the welcoming ambience invites further enquiry. An antique table and bookcase occupy the majority of the right-hand side of the room—displaying spiritual books and binders of Manit’s photos—while the wall on the left is crammed with different sized shots of his bangkok101.com

A steep narrow staircase at the back of the shop requires the divesting of shoes, and leads to the 2nd floor which is a delightfully airy loft space. Like the downstairs, the room positively encourages loitering, which is handy as it’s used exclusively for exhibitions, each of which runs for two months. Currently on display is ‘In Nowhere Land’ by Nepali resident Didier Mayhew (running until April 29th). His show is a first for the gallery, as they don’t normally exhibit documentary photography. “I felt that Didier’s bond with the children of the nomadic families from the ‘Terai’ region showed total empathy,” Manit explains. “They are outcasts living on the edge of Nepalese society—shunned but still proud.” As co–founder of the Photo Bangkok Festival, first held in 2015, Manit is now busy planning next year’s 2nd Festival, working closely with BACC. Their mutual aim is to promote creative thinking through photography, an idea which echoes his own mind-set, as well as demonstrating his optimism about the future of photography. When pressed for one piece of advice for aspiring photographers he had more than a few pointers. “Look around, take photographs, find your own way, develop your own style,” he begins, pausing thoughtfully while warming to his theme. “That’s how the world progresses, by people doing something different. Make your own footprint, don’t just follow in others. See the world, change the world… create! More than ever, people communicate through photographs and they help promote understanding between cultures.” Two galleries, two owners. Same philosophy, different delivery. Both galleries are treasures Bangkokians can be proud of and share in, and both are testament to the passion, drive and creativity currently coursing through our effervescent city’s artistic veins. www.facebook.com/houseoflucie www.kathmanduphotobkk.com A PR I L 2017 | 25

CITY PULSE | gallery profile

River City Gallery

he River City Bangkok shopping complex is a mall that specializes in fine arts and antiques. Its Galleria Zone on the second floor provides space for public art exhibitions, such as the recently completed La Femme exhibit, which was held to commemorate International Women’s Day and featured eight female artists from seven countries and three continents. Part of the Ithalthai Group, River City opened its doors in 1984, and is one of the longest running art showhouses and galleries in Bangkok. The art gallery started off as Bangkok’s most reputable antique market as well as an antique auction house, but as younger generations of art lovers have gravitated towards modern art, River City has expanded to include contemporary art as a central part of its offerings. From art, to porcelain, to antiques—and just about every other fine art form—there are over 50 different shops and types of displays located in the various gallery rooms that you will find here. Antique auctions are still held here as well. For over 30 years running, on the first Saturday of every month, over 400 auctions with 100,000 plus transactions have taken place—to the

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tune of over 700 million baht. Shop owners here are well respected as they are some of the pioneers of the Thai art and antique trade, having been here since its inception, and genuine experts on all antique and modern products, enthusiastic about showing off their passion and knowledge on their specific fields of expertise. The events held at the art gallery are put on both by River City and other organizations who occasionally rent the space, making it an accessible spot for lots of different groups and mediums in the art community. Another unique feature about the River City gallery is that at many of the art exhibitions the art on display is also for sale. Marketing manager Anusorn Deeraksa says that those coming to purchase art are a mixed range of customers. “We get buyers who are art collectors or individuals who appreciate art and want to buy it for home decoration or personal pleasure,” he says. Collectors, investors, and art dealers all come here, which is no surprise given that River City also is known by its nickname, ‘The Living Museum’, due to the vast quantities of fine pieces—a fact that isn’t lost on connoisseurs of fine art.

Deeraksa also thinks that River City puts itself in the forefront of the Bangkok art curating scene due to its longstanding track record. He remarks, “Our location on the banks of the Chao Phraya is quite special and unique, and we have been in the art industry for more than three decades now, so potential buyers can rest assured in our expertise.” An additional bonus is the collection of fine eating and drinking establishments at River City. The majority have outdoor dining terraces overlooking the Chao Phraya, and the site is always quite vibrant in the evening, as many river dinner cruises leave from the pier here, making it a bustling hub of activity. Regardless of one’s level of art expertise or interest, it’s worth making a sojourn here, as you’ll undoubtedly learn something new, and might even surprise yourself and end up bringing an objet d’art back home. by Dave Stamboulis

River City Bangkok 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng Si Phraya Pier, Yota Rd. Open daily: 10am-10pm Tel: 02 237 0077 www.rivercitybangkok.com

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making merit | CITY PULSE

Pizza & Paintings Sathorn 11 Art Space & Gallery Pizza By Julia Offenberger

he combination of an art gallery and a pizza delivery operation might seem odd at first, but the success of both Sathorn 11 Art Space and Gallery Pizza proves that the guys behind this unique concept know exactly what they are doing. The common denominator?... Supporting local Thai artists by providing a creative space and platform to pursue and exhibit their talent. When New York expat and founder of the gallery Marc Greene came across the empty shophouse along Sathorn Soi 11, a low-rise street in Bangkok’s CBD—he realized the potential of turning it into something special. “I thought this would be great for something, I just wasn’t sure what,” he admits. “And then I was down in Chinatown, and I saw this little girl drawing on the sidewalk—super talented—and I just thought this would just be a great thing to give back to the community.” He consulted Chaiyaporn ‘Mike’ Boonmahanark (pictured), whom he’d met during a six-month program at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in Bangkok 10 years prior. Originally born in Thailand, Mike spent nearly 25 years living in the US, and, contrary to Marc, had a professional background in art. Partnering as curator and director, they launched their first residency program about two years ago—offering creative talents from across Thailand a temporary place to stay, work, and exhibit their art work. One such residency session lasts between 3-6 months, and currently there are five artists in residence—two on site, and three outside. The call for the next program was launched in March and recipients will be announced in June, giving artists enough time to prepare a portfolio on which the decision will be made. Though, there sure is no lack of applicants—last time there were about 60 candidates—not everybody is able to afford to focus solely on their art career, which led to the idea of Gallery Pizza. The wildly successful pizza delivery service catering to Bangkok’s late night hordes (it’s open until 4am) was launched last year by Marc’s son, Shane. Unsatisfied with Bangkok’s pizza options, he spent four months in Italy learning how to make real pizza, and on his return set up the delivery service, with the aim of providing job opportunities—as delivery dudes or pizza makers—to the resident artists who need extra income. “Now we can also offer them a job,” Marc explains. bangkok101.com

“We give them free paint, we give them a place to stay, and we give them the studio for free. It’s very beneficial, and we are getting more talent because of that.” The exhibitions on show are, for the most part, group exhibitions, displaying the resident artists’ works as well as those of some more well-known, and established artists. This helps draw a larger audience, and exposes the resident’s work to local and international visitors, collectors, and art lovers. On the topic of running an art gallery in Bangkok—or anywhere for that matter—Mike explains: “It’s a passion of love because you’re not here to make money, you’re here to contribute to society and to the community and to something you love which is art. Marc started this because he wants to give back to the community, and to help out young artists, and I got into this because I love art and I know there’s huge disadvantage in Thailand for Thai artists, so this is why I agree with his principle of the mission statements of helping the artists to get recognition.” Their quest seems to be successful—just a few months ago, they raised half a million Baht at an exhibition for two young artists—and their future plans are varied, including a cocktail bar at the back of the gallery. As for Gallery Pizza, Shane tells me about his plans to expand to a second location in the near future, most likely around the On Nut area.

Sathorn 11 Art Space 404, Sathorn Soi 11 Tel: 02 004 1199 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-6pm www.sathorn11.com

Gallery Pizza

404, Sathorn Soi 11 Tel: 02 041 1044 Daily delivery: 11am-4am www.gallerypizzabkk.com A PR I L 2017 | 27

CITY PULSE | out & about

Creative Excursion

Exploring the arty environment of the Khlong Bang Luang Artist Village Words and photos by Julia Offenberger

ity dwellers looking for a quick, yet culturally significant escape—away from the frenzy of urban Bangkok—will find the Khlong Bang Luang Artist Village an ideal destination to while away a peaceful afternoon in a creative environment. Located to the west of the Chao Phraya River, this laidback neighbourhood is just a short taxi ride from Talad Phlu BTS station, and is hidden at the end of Charan Santiwong Soi 3. From here, a narrow footbridge (watch out for the motorbikes racing over!) leads visitors into this small village which, despite its close location to the city, feels like a whole world away. Traffic-clogged roads and shiny skyscrapers are replaced by well-preserved, stilted wooden houses, clustered along one of Bangkok’s old canals in a scene reminiscent of the days of yore. The narrow alleys are home to several art galleries, studios, shops, restaurants, and cafés, as well as a handful of barbershops. Along the khlong runs a rickety boardwalk where locals and visitors—immersed in the calming and creative atmosphere

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of the community—let their feet dangle above the water and enjoy iced coffee or a bite to eat, perhaps while doing some painting. It’s the perfect place to let the world, as well as the odd longtail boat, whiz by. The main draw for visitors to this community is the two-story teakwood house Baan Silapin, also known locally as the ‘Artist House’. The century-old structure is owned by Chumpol Akhpantanond, a Bangkok-based artist and conservationist, who bought and restored the building—turning it into an artist centre and attracting many other professional artists and art students. The house is open every day, though hours vary (Mon-Tue, 10am-6pm, Wed-Fri, 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun, 9am-7pm). On the ground floor Baan Silapin is home to a great coffee shop, serving hot and cold beverages, as well as a small souvenir shop-cum-museum with postcards and khon puppets and masks. Out front, several painted sculptures are interspersed among the seated visitors along the walkway, while on the upper floor, there’s bangkok101.com

out & about | CITY PULSE

a small gallery, showcasing paintings, drawings, and photographs from local artists. Sitting in the centre of the house is a 300-year-old chedi, a relic of the Ayutthaya period, which doubles as the backdrop for the traditional Thai puppet theatre that performs here every day except Wednesdays at 2pm. Each day different scenes of the Ramakien, Thailand’s national epic, are acted out by skilful performers and their colourful and intricatelydesigned khon puppets, with a cast of characters featuring the monkey god Hanuman, and the mermaid princess Suvannamaccha. The performers—three operating one puppet—are clad head-to-toe in black, and cover their faces with expressionless black masks. The 15-minute show—which is free of charge, although donations are “encouraged”—is in Thai only, with an emcee translating parts of the scenes into English. It is a fun way to spend an afternoon and is recommended for children and adults alike, as the puppets—particularly the mischievous Hanuman— interact in humorous ways with the audience. Inspired by this creative atmosphere, visitors can colour their own khon mask or, for the more adventurous, small canvases and paints are available for budding artists to paint their own waterside masterpieces. bangkok101.com

Among other sites of interest in the area are two ancient temples worth visiting. Upon entering the village, take a right until you come across the temple complex of Wat Khuhasawan Worawiharn, a royal monastery that was renovated under King Rama I. Likewise, if you wander along the narrow alleyways away from the canal, you’ll pass a small (tourist) market selling food and drinks, as well as souvenirs. Behind this market is where you’ll find Wat Kamphangbangchak, an ancient and beautiful temple, most likely dating back to the Ayutthaya period. The mural on its front wall shows a large standing Buddha, framed by floral stone carvings, while the walls inside are covered in beautiful mosaics, in varying states of decay, depicting scenes from Buddhist mythology. As Bangkok keeps on growing and modernizing, many of the city’s ancient canals are disappearing—fast being replaced by roads, and concrete structures. Khlong Bang Luang, by contrast, is one of the last remaining treasures still to be found on Bangkok’s old network of canals and rivers. The neighbourhood is a throwback in time, with crumbling temples and wooden homes on stilts adorning the canal-side. But even more important is the magic artists create, whether it’s timeless moments captured on canvas, or carefully crafted puppets coming to life. A PR I L 2017 | 29

CITY PULSE | made in thailand

Operatic Opposites

Opera Siam pushes artistic boundaries with a series of ambitious performances Words by Stan Gayuski Photos courtesy of the Bangkok Opera Foundation

ack in January, at the Thailand Cultural Center’s Main Hall, the tireless Opera Siam managed to produce two operas within the span of a single week; a monumental world premiere of a Buddhistthemed epic, and an intimate monodrama about the Holocaust. The former, entitled Chariot of Heaven, is the 5th installment in Somtow Sucharitkul’s DasJati: Ten Lives of the Buddha marathon (for which he is the writer, composer, and director), and was premiered to mark the 100th day since the passing of His Majesty King Rama IX. As such, it could not have been a more appropriate subject as it deals with the story of a King so pure in his pursuit of the Dharma that the gods themselves summon him to heaven to preach to them. The four performances of Chariot of Heaven—the 4th in the 10-part series—were very well attended, with audiences that ranged from ambassadors and high society types, to tourists, students, and young people (affluent and working class). It truly was an astonishing phenomenon, made possible by the confluence of Buddhism and opera— an exotic treat for the tourists and a new educational approach to Thai tradition and philosophies. “Some of the operas are going on tour this year,” revealed Somtow. “The first one, The Silent Prince, recently premiered in Germany and Czech Republic. 30 | A PR I L 2017

Number three, Sama: The Faithful Son is being revived at the Thailand Cultural Center in the first week of August, and then will (hopefully) go on tour in India. Number five, Architect of Dreams, will premiere in Thailand in October. “I’m composing this sequence of 10 full length operas of which five have been produced so far. Each one can be performed as an individual work, but when finally strung together it will actually be the biggest such work in the history of classical music. The idea is that all ten will eventually be done in a weeklong cycle and that this will become a regular Ten Lives of the Buddha festival, akin to the Bayreuth Festival where Wagner’s four-part Ring Cycle is performed.” Of the five DasJati operas produced so far, Chariot of Heaven has the least sheer plot elements. Its theme is the strength of adithan, a firmness of purpose that can see through to an ultimate end generations away. A total of 84,000 generations pass in the first ten minutes of the opera, which also takes us to the depths of hell and to the height of the Tavatimsa heaven. In this opera’s 90-minute run time, I felt I’d experienced as much as a four-hour Wagner opera. Making up for the relative thinness of plot, Somtow has poured a lifetime of experience and technical brilliance into this work. Moments of orchestral felicities abound, and there’s an unusual use of instruments—from the bangkok101.com

made in thailand | CITY PULSE

emphasis on the piccolo trumpet, to exotic Asian sounds like the pi java and tanpura, and even the sci-fi twang of a Theremin. Then there are the musical “firsts”. Somtow depicts the 33 Gods of Tavatimsa with 33 simultaneous soloists— creating a size of operatic ensemble without precedent in the entire history of opera—while building his climax on only three chords. Another operatic first is the ‘March of Time’ sequence in the first act, in which Somtow portrays, through music, the entire history of mankind—from the Stone Age to a futuristic post-holocaust world and back again. The portrayals of heaven and hell both stretch the classical music envelope tremendously. Conductor Trisdee na Patalung kept the huge operation together (sometimes as many as two hundred people were involved in the pit and on stage), cementing his reputation as the most accomplished Thai conductor of his generation. Mention should also be made of the astonishing coloratura performance of Chinese soprano Sen Guo, filling in at the last minute for Stacey Tappan who was unable to make it owing to a scheduling conflict. Guo’s deliciously floated high E in the first act alone was worth the price of admission (a moment of impossible beauty). Meanwhile, Puntwitt Asawa, as the charioteer, showed a rare “heroic” side to the countertenor voice and is destined to become one of Thailand’s international opera stars. Opera Siam regulars Damian Whiteley (the King of Heaven), Jak Cholvijarn, and Barbara Zion, all filled their roles with élan, and the chorus was amazing—perhaps the best opera chorus yet heard in this town. Special mention should be made of soprano Kaleigh Rae Gamaché, who though she only had a small role bangkok101.com

in Chariot of Heaven, appeared three days later at a completely packed Bangkok Art and Culture Center in the title role in the one-woman show The Diary of Anne Frank. This performance, a revival of the successful Somtow-directed production from last year, was brought back to mark Holocaust Memorial Day (January 27th). With an ensemble of only nine instrumentalists, Grigori Frid’s forces were directed with laser precision by Trisdee, demonstrating in a single week his command of vastly different musical idioms. Where Chariot was open and lush and colorful, Anne Frank was claustrophobic and dark. Two more different productions could not have appeared side by side. Yet they both, in their different ways, were triumphs for both conductor and director. Although Opera Siam’s productions have an international veneer and use many imported soloists, these twin programs have shown the remarkable versatility and vitality of opera in Thailand. European and American critics have been raving for a while now, and this reviewer feels that it’s time for the local crowd to notice the treasure it has in its grasp. NOTE: You can become a subscriber to the entire series, and a membership will get you VIP seats. Donations— from music lovers, corporations, the Buddhist community, and so on—are also readily accepted to keep the project going (and a recently enacted 200 percent tax break for people who contribute to arts and culture projects should help). In addition, some of the productions use large numbers of cast members. These operas have international-standard primary casts, local singers and actors can find out how to participate by visiting www.dasjati.com. A PR I L 2017 | 31

SNAPSHOTS | insight

Bruce Gundersen’s ‘Sisters and the Moon’ (Pimphilalai and Saiithong, her chaperone), digital photomontage 32 | A PR I L 2017

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insight | SNAPSHOTS

On Kuhn Chang Kuhn Phaen

f art imitates life as well as life imitates art, then Kuhn Chang Kuhn Phaen—one of the best-loved works of classical Thai literature—whole-heartedly reflects this sentiment. Originating from folklore legends, and partly based on a true story, this epic is a mélange of heroism, romance, adventure, and tragedy. It’s also spiced up with farce, horror, magic, and eroticism. Unlike Ramayana, which depicts the fantastical world of gods and demons, Kuhn Chang Kuhn Phaen voices a story of ordinary Siamese folks and their lives during the early Ayutthaya Period. It’s believed that this multigenerational saga was based on true events that took place around 1,500 AD, during King Ramathibodi II’s reign. An Ayutthayan memoir mentions Kuhn Phaen’s name in an account of a military campaign against Chiang Mai, modelled after wars and battles in the Ayutthaya and Lan Xang chronicles. However, Kuhn Chang Kuhn Phaen is more likely to be a blend of oral history, local tales, and true stories embellished by storytellers. It first developed in oral form for Khub Sepha, a genre of Thai poetic storytelling that had its origin in the performances of troubadours who recite the verses by singing, accented by the clapping of ghrub, a pair of wooden clappers,

Tom’s Two Satang

Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com

for rhythm and emphasis. Some old episodes were unrecorded and lost, while new ones were written, compiled, and incorporated in the 19th century. Among its many contributors are King Rama II, King Rama III, and their entourage of poets, who composed notably beautiful passages of key scenes. The first half of the story involves three main protagonists—Chang, Phaen, and Pimphilalai (or Pim)—from Suphanburi. The main plot revolves around their love triangle and its tragic outcome. The second half repeats the theme, with one man and two women— Phra Wai (Phaen’s and Pim’s son), and Srimala and Soifah (his two wives). The story unfolds through Chang and Phaen’s childhood and adulthood, as both are in love with Pim. After his monkhood, Kuhn Phaen—Kuhn was a junior feudal title royally bestowed for male commoners—successfully woos and marries Pim but then he has to go to war. Kuhn Chang seizes the opportunity to take Pim by lying that Kuhn Phaen died in battle. But Kuhn Phaen returns and they all end up in the ensuing squabbles. Decades after, the tragedy culminates when Pim is condemned to death by the king for failing to choose between the two men. Phra Wai asks for her pardon, but arrives at the scene too late. These well-drawn characters reveal universal human traits. Kuhn Chang is bald, ugly, paunchy, crass, and unscrupulous but wealthy. He uses all kinds of schemes to trick Pim into marrying him and also tries to kill his step-son, Phra Wai. Although often seen as a scoundrel, he actually loves and cares about Pim very much. Meanwhile, Kuhn Phaen, a Thai version of Casanova, is suave, brave, clever, silver-tongued, and philandering but poor. After ordained as a novice, he is trained in martial arts, mantras, and formulas for supernatural power which he uses for his advantages. The sorcery helps him through challenging situations and in charming women. In a famous passage, he acquires a Kumar Thong, or “golden child”, a powerful spirit from the still-born foetus of his own son (with Buakhlii, one of his wives)!

Both men serve in the court of Somdej Phra Punwasa, modelled after King Ramathibodi II. But nothing is ever fair in love and war for these two. They keep outsmarting each other as well as competing for Pimphilalai’s love. However, they treat her poorly, like their property. Pimphilalai, the leading lady, is pretty, kind-hearted, and strong-willed but sharp-tongued. Due to her sickness when Kuhn Phaen was at war, a monk recommends her a new name— Wanthong. Caught in this bizarre web of debauchery and deceits, Wanthong is hardly a damsel in distress, but a victim of the male chauvinistic society. Feminists would criticize her as an indecisive and compromising heroine, while men view her one-sidedly as an unfaithful two-timer. Under social pressures, she can’t seem to win. Failing to determine the course of her life, she boldly accepts her fate, destined by men around her, from her two husbands to her son, and, ultimately, her monarch. Although these plots deal with immoral conduct and tawdry affairs, the story is taught in school for students can learn about human nature and culture. These archetypical characters become metaphorical for popular colloquial sayings and expressions. Besides being a literary gem, Kuhn Chang Kuhn Phaen is full of sociological and anthropological details about Siamese customs, beliefs, and rituals. It teaches us about how we lived through birth rites, marriages, ceremonies, costumes, feasts, funerals, house building, entertainment, travels, arms, court cases, superstitions, animism, the supernatural, and black magic. Like many classics, this tale keeps inspiring other artistic creations, such as theatrical performances, paintings, novels, songs, cartoons, films, a longrunning TV series, and even shrines and amulets. In 1917 Hem Vejakorn, a Thai artist and illustrator, produced a set of drawings from celebrated scenes. No matter whether art or life came first, these distinctive personalities and touching stories become immortalized in various art forms. A PR I L 2017 | 33

SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand

The Masseuse Murders Taking part in a true crime TV documentary profiling Thailand’s “second” serial killer By Jim Algie

n early 2005 the body of a masseuse was found strangled to death in a luxury hotel in Mukdahan, a provincial city overlooking the brown Mekong River in Northeastern Thailand. Over the next few months, the cadavers of more masseuses and karaoke singers turned up in other parts of the country in what may be only the second case of serial murder in the history of Thailand. The first such serial killer was See Ouey Sae Nguan, a Chinese immigrant who went on a carnage and cannibalism spree in Bangkok’s Chinatown and the eastern seaboard around Rayong province in the late 1950s. His preserved corpse is on

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display at the Songkran Niyomsane Forensic Medical Museum in Bangkok. Since I wrote about him in the non-fiction collection Bizarre Thailand (2010) and later in a fact-wedsfiction novella called “The Legendary Nobody” in The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (2014), the directors of a true-crime show about the “masseuse murders” contacted me to serve as a consultant. For the program—entitled The Masseuse Murders and originally aired on the Asia Crime Investigation channel—the producers also did a series of interviews with many of the investigating officers, who discuss how the investigation proceeded and how

they caught a couple of very lucky breaks that broke the case open. In-between the restaged murder scenes are clips of police file footage that show the crime scenes, next to CCTV footage of the killer entering and exiting various hotels—with enough forensic details to keep CSI geeks happy. Between these parts, I am asked some of the usual questions about Thailand on subjects like prostitution and more unusual topics, like the traits associated with serial killers, such as pathological lying (think John Wayne Gacy), the swapping of identities (think Ted Bundy), and a delusional belief that they can never be caught (think Jeffrey Dahmer) which inspires more bangkok101.com

bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS and more reckless behaviours that often gets them caught in the end. Those parts of the program are okay. I don’t always agree with myself, though, or the way that these parts are edited together. After appearing in a host of TV shows and documentaries I often wish that I could edit my conversations myself. For me, the real highlights of The Masseuse Murders are the interviews with the different women talking about their deceased friends. In Mukdahan, a colleague of the slain karaoke singer, Warunee Pimpabutr, talks about the difficult life she had and yet remained such a cheerful and lively soul. Her boss, and the owner of the bar, Imchit Paklau, relates how Warunee—just 25 at the time of her death and the only person in her family with a job—had five brothers and sisters who had to walk many kilometers to school every morning. One of the reasons she was working in the karaoke bar was to buy a motorcycle for her siblings so they could drive to school instead of walking. Far from being portrayed as passive victims, these women are framed as fighters and survivors. During a police reenactment of one murder, a masseuse says, the serial killer Somkhit Pompuang is attacked by a female colleague of the slain woman. And Imchit makes no bones

Bizarre

Thailand

Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the non-fiction collection, Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic (2010) and On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Twin Tales of Rock ‘n’ Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway (2016). Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com

about it when she says that the killer deserved the death sentence he got. It’s easy to glorify, or to moralize about the sex trade in Thailand, but the reality is more banal. Imchit says, “I spend so much time with these girls that I know nobody is here by choice. They do it for their parents and siblings. So please be sympathetic.” The documentary’s writer and director Mayurica Biswas took that advice to heart. Serial killers are notorious for debasing their victims in some way, either physically or emotionally, or through sexual acts like sodomy intended to make these pitiful characters feel superior to those they slay. That’s another reason why so many of them, like Somkhit, enjoy using their bare hands to kill. Then they can feel the victim’s pulse throbbing in their throats, savour the fear in their eyes, watch their death throes stop and their bodies go limp. In taking lives they have granted themselves the godlike powers of life and death—powers they have so often been denied in their own wretched lives on the margins of society, like this chronic scammer who pretended to

be a talent scout for a big music label, among other guises. Best of all, The Masseuse Murders—which bears the fingerprints and hallmarks of a woman’s surehanded and sympathetic touch—goes a long way to restoring the dignity of the women who died at the hands of a remorseless serial killer and conman. NOTE: Now available online, The Masseuse Murders is a true life crime documentary that features interviews with Thai policemen, and an appearance by author Jim Algie, who stands in as the token farang expert on serial killers and the flesh trade. You can watch the program in its entirety here: www.dailymotion.com/ video/x2egdw9_crime-investigationasia-the-masseuse-murders_tv

This tale and many others come from the author of Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Sex, Crime and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourist attractions.

A PR I L 2017 | 35

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Walking with the Dead Urban development squeezes a hallowed Chinese burial ground By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

“

hen I was little, I used to come here all the time with my parents, but by the time I was a teen I didn’t want anything to do with Chinese customs anymore.” Thai filmmaker Waraluck Hiransrettawat is talking about the Hokkien Chinese Cemetery off Silom Road, where her great grandfather Ko Bien Teit was buried long ago. “I stopped coming, and forgot it even existed until one day not long ago when I was visiting a restaurant on Sathorn Soi 12, and recognized the neighbourhood. I couldn’t remember where the old cemetery was exactly, but after walking around a bit, I finally found it.”

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Waraluck was stunned when she saw the graveyard—wedged in between Silom Soi 9 and Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Road—for the first time in over 30 years. “I wasn’t sure if it was even the same place, because it looked so different,” she says. “I remembered large, tidy, and well-kept grounds from my childhood. It was sad to see the old graves covered in overgrowth, and falling down.” Waraluck’s great grandfather left China’s Fujian province, an area vulnerable to catastrophic floods and drought, for a new life in Thailand in the late 19th century. From 1882 to 1917, up to 35,000 Chinese entered Thailand every year, mostly settling in Bangkok

and along the Gulf of Siam coast. In 1961, the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration banned all burials within city limits, and since then no graves have been added to the Hokkien Cemetery, which is administered by Thailand’s Hokkien Society. After the opening of the BTS Silom line in 1999, and subsequent construction of Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Road, the cemetery became an embattled piece of real estate. Today, the land holding these graves is worth well over a million baht per square wa (4 sq.m). The Hokkien Society stands to make over a billion baht if they can convince descendants of the people buried here to move them out. bangkok101.com

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS

Since 2000 there’s been a steady push to have families shift graves to a new and more spacious cemetery in nearby Chonburi province. The Hokkien Society offers new burial lots at the Chonburi grounds for free, and will pay B100,000 for each grave taken out of the old cemetery.

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

Enough Chinese Thais have accepted this offer to reduce the size of the Hokkien cemetery by half. Where once there were around 180 graves, today roughly 90 remain. Looming over the old cemetery like an ascending dragon is the MahaNakhon building, a 77-story luxury mixed-use skyscraper that was conceived in 2009 and is still under construction. Asked whether it was bad luck to build next to a cemetery, MahaNakhon’s managing director Kipson Beck recently stated that they sorted it all out in advance by organizing Buddhist, Christian (a nearby Christian cemetery was also affected), and Brahmin ceremonies to ensure the spirits will be on their side. “According to our spiritual advisors, the spirits are strong, very powerful. They can be powerful to help us,” said Beck. The Hokkien Society rents out adjacent land to MahaNakhon as a base for their work force for an estimated B800,000 a month. The society also earns money from owners who pay to park their cars in an empty space in front of the graves. Starting last year, the society adopted a policy in which anyone who neglects to pay respect to their ancestor’s graves—signing a registry each time—for three years running will lose the right to the graves.

Among those who dutifully tend to their ancestors’ graves, the biggest holdouts at the Hokkien Cemetery are wealthy Chinese-descended Thais— owners of banks, oil companies, and other large businesses—who believe their success may be due to the cemetery’s powerful feng shui. The future of the cemetery, at least for the short term and in a reduced size, thus seems assured. Khun Yai, the resident caretaker, sleeps every night in an old reception hall in front of the graves. He says he sees ghosts occasionally. “I’ve seen the reigning spirit here several times,” he says. “She’s a Chinese woman, wearing a blue top and a white bottom. She walks around like a landowner, or a guard. I’m not afraid, but when I see her, I don’t stare. I usually close my eyes for a while, and when I open them, she’s gone.” Other spirits make appearances as well. “Once in a while there’s a short lady spirit standing in front of the grave belonging to an ancestor of [banker and former finance minister under Abhisit Vejjajiva 2008-2011] Korn Chatikavanij,” he goes on to say. “She usually wears either pink or yellow.” “If it were me, I’d cremate like the Thais rather than bury my family members,” he adds. “But I’ll stay here till the end. There’s something here— worth memory and respect.” A PR I L 2017 | 37

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Gates & Grilles Marking boundaries beautifully

survey conducted several years ago identified a need for Thailand to catch up with regional rivals in academic prowess. Except in one respect. Thailand boasts Southeast Asia’s best—and most expensive—school gates. The proportion of funding poured into plaques, pillars, and ironwork seems to outpace that spent on teaching. Travel the country’s roads and it’s apparent this status symbol isn’t exclusive to schools, but conspicuous evidence of pride in progress, from civic compounds and factory gates, to gaudy mansion railings and golf club archways, complete with clocktower. Architectural one-upmanship is nothing new. Temples (wat) have long had their porches adorned to soar gloriously above plain timber housing. Historically, temples had far grander construction materials, such as glazed roof tiles in the distinctive pattern of green and orange oblongs derived from cloth covers on the tented roof of a royal barge. With wealth generally increasing, the human impulse to upgrade has seen commoners cover everything in shiny ceramics: roof, railings, walls and, yes, gleaming, wipeclean gateposts. Now condominiums look like 40-storey bathrooms, accessed via towering screens of gilded wrought iron, twice the height of the security guard heaving them ajar. Gates, of course, are a building’s face. And face must be built up, burnished and bowed to. Each social class has its own way of shouting about how impressive they’ve become, with the nouveau riche shouting the loudest. Hence the neo-classical embellishments found in suburbs, where builders erect vast gated housing estates, industrial parks and country clubs with towering arched sentry posts and engraved marble name placards. Amid all the glamour and exuberance lurks the prime reason for gates in the first place: security. Communal trust still keeps open the gardens of ordinary villagers, perhaps edged simply with planks or planted thickets. But those with status want walls and railings, gates and guards. Ironwork solved the resulting dilemma: how to shield what you’ve got while also showing it off.

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 38 | A PR I L 2017

The Thai sense of riab roi (decorum) underlies this impulse for tidy enclosures. Gates are not just a superficial frontage, they order, control and beautify. Ornate doesn’t equal ostentatious when extravagant decor is the prevailing social standard for what’s considered proper. Restrained design is less likely to gain acceptance into the ranks of the exclusive and may cause puzzlement, like ‘dressing-down’ does in clothing. Security in many countries can lead to the grimmest of environments, but in Thailand even defences are cheerful and succumb to carefree fashion. Patterns in the sliding gates and window grilles preserve an archive of design since the 1960s. Echoed in cement block tracery, modern metalwork makes Wallpaper* magazine swoon. Diamonds and honeycombs tessellate, ovals and circles overlap, while long stepped rectangles replicate the format of traditional teak panelling. Over time, railings became integrated into the sunshades until balconies were fully enclosed, with roof gardens typically capped by oppressive metal cages. What keeps people out, though, also keeps people in. As Thai firemen impotently lament, residents burnt behind their bars forgot what’s most precious to protect. Temples aren’t immune to such conspicuous protection of possessions. Historically open to community use, they were also liable to antiquities theft. So since the mid-20th century, when raids on artifacts became an industry, wats have kept their treasures safe behind metal bars. And in doing so they invented an art form. Vihaan shutters open onto strip-metal outlines of angels. Typically painted in vivid hues, temple gate ironwork may depict chakras, chariots and the lotus at various stages of blooming. Metal grilles thus have the power to preach anything their owners wish: materialist grandeur in the suburbs or heavenly splendour at the wat. Surface in Thailand can be much of the substance. And so gates can be a gateway to the culture.

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Chavanich Company headquarters

Realistic Redevelopment A brand new creative arts district is being built around the P. Tendercool design showroom Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

here’s a small soi running off Charoen Krung Soi 30, whose illustrious history began with some World War II era warehouses built by the Japanese. Then came the Chavanich Company building, a twostory pale grey minimalist geometric structure built in 1946. It’s a typical ‘Khana Ratsadon’ inspired building— Khana Ratsadon was Thailand’s ‘People’s Party’ in power during the leadership of Field Marshal Phibul Songran—and it is testament to the craze at the time for late Art Deco style. The building belongs to the Chavanich clan, a Chinese-Thai family

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of traders present in the area for more than 70 years. And because it has been meticulously renovated, passersby tend to take notice of it. “My grandfather started his operation here, as he traded along the Chao Phraya River, especially technical goods from Japan,” explained one of the family members. “In 1946, they built this beautiful structure that we are keen to preserve, as it is not only part of our family heritage but also part of the district’s heritage.” Although it is still, to this day, the headquarters of the Chavanich company, a glance inside reveals a

majestic staircase, a pure art deco jewel, while the first floor—not open to the public—has still a fine collection of late 1940s furniture. There is even a small museum dedicated to the family’s business which might be opened to the public in the future. In the meantime, visitors can also pop into the beautiful showroom and art space of P. Tendercool, which belongs to Belgian designer Pieter Compernol. Together with his wife they run an exclusive shop which manufactures bespoke fine furniture, designed and executed by the craftsmen in their studio. bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS “We were looking for a large space seven years ago. And we found this wonderful place with its fabulous beams,” says Stéphanie Compernol, Pieter’s wife. “We kept it just as it was, took away some of the shelves, and transformed the space to give the feeling—to visitors and to ourselves—of an apartment home. We were very lucky to find such a structure in Bangkok that has not been demolished. But the Chavanich family is very much in love with this building.” P.Tendercool is a company that specializes in designing and creating wooden furniture made from old planks. The planks mainly come from Thailand (some from Vietnam) and are patiently cleaned, restored, and finally assembled and turned into unique pieces. In addition, three to four times a year this design duo are inspired to organize art exhibitions, as a complement to their furniture production business. “We don’t work as art specialists, but instead just organize art events according to our instincts, and also when friends introduce us to some of their artist acquaintances,” explains Stéphanie. “The sole criteria is that the

works of art should match and blend with our furniture collection.” This little design paradise—also just a short distance from the Portuguese Embassy—might soon see more people coming in. Both Soi Captain Bush and Charoen Krung road are poised to change dramatically with the opening of the new Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) to be housed in the former Grand Central Post Office, thus transforming the entire Charoen Krung area into Bangkok’s new ‘Creative Arts District’. A Creative District Foundation (CDF) has been created by private citizens as a non-profit organization to look after the responsible development of the designated areas of Bangrak and Klongsan, turning them into a single district that encourages artistic expression. “We view this creativity as a resource that can be channeled to fill needs, or solve problems in the city, and it gives back to locals and visitors a piece of the history of Bangkok,”

explains David Robinson, the CDF General Manager. “Soi 30 will actually be redeveloped as it will stand just behind the new TCDC. It will become a pedestrian area with some of the warehouses being converted into a design and art market, with a few cafes and restaurants as well. There is also a project involving a giant fresco from a Mexican artist, and a small park too.” The vision of the entire area will be to sow the seeds of creativity within the district, bringing in art and cultural events to raise awareness and support, as well as to promote existing communities, preserve local heritage, and even bring innovative concepts in food, design, and digital activities. Robinson and his team are also working on an inaugural new event called the Brilliant Bangkok Festival of Light and Ideas, and promise more special events in the future. In short, it’s yet another great way to nurture civic heritage and raise awareness of one of Bangkok’s oldest districts.

Historic

Bangkok P. Tendercool showroom and art space Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

P. Tendercool bespoke tables

Chavanich building staircase A PR I L 2017 | 41

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Dancers in the Phi Ta Kon Parade, Loei 42 | A PR I L 2017

bangkok101.com

ISAAN 101

| TRAVEL

n January of this year the American news station CNN rated ISAAN as one of the top places to visit in 2017. It stated: “Those looking for a piece of Thailand that’s still largely unexplored by the international market should head for the Northeast region.” The news item went on to say that “it’s impossible to see it all in one visit so you’ll have to pick and choose”, which is an apt warning. The area referred to as Isaan consists of 20 separate provinces, and almost two-thirds of Thailand’s population resides here. Unfortunately, however, it remains the poorest, and perhaps most misunderstood region in the kingdom. But the influence of Isaan can be felt throughout the Kingdom, as the people from these various regions have formed a massive diaspora—many migrating to Thailand’s urbanized areas after abandoning farms and fields in favour of factories. The undeveloped rural areas that make up much of Isaan are subject to all sorts of hardships—droughts, famine, and so on—and the inhabitants are sometimes written off as country bumpkins, often viewed as unsophisticated and poorly-educated. However, this part of the country was the cradle of civilization, as archaeological sites at Baan Chiang in UDON THANI and Pha Dtaem in UBON RATCHATHANI have shown. In the history of Siam, Isaan only recently became a part of the kingdom, when the sub-regions joined Thailand during King Rama V’s reign. People from this area represent a diversity of ethnicities, mixing sub-groups of Tais, Laotians, Mons, Khmers, and, of course, Chinese, as well as minorities such as the Suai or Kui, who are elephant mahouts in Udon Thani SURIN and SISAKET. These cultures have, in turn, richly influenced the rest of the country. Loei Sakon Nakhon Isaan is also much greener than its stereotypical image of desolate, dustblown farming communities. In fact, its national parks Nakhon Phanom are spectacular, especially in the dry season Khon Kaen when the wildflowers bloom. Art and crafts thrive Roi Et here as well, and textile lovers actively seek out Korat Ubon Ratchathani silks from the lower Isaan provinces, as well as Sisaket indigo-dyed cotton from SAKON NAKHON. On BANGKOK radio stations across Thailand Isaan folk music, Surin such as molam, plays regularly, and when it comes to food the delicacies from this region are among the kingdom’s most popular staples. Seemingly simplistic, they balance flavours and spices in a miraculous culinary collage, although some dishes, such as pla raa and pla jaew (fermented fish), soup nhor mai (spicy soup of fermented bamboo shoots), and ant larvae salad, are only for acquired tastes. Interestingly, in som tum, the ubiquitous spicy papaya salad, the main ingredient—papaya—comes from Central America, making it but one of many hybridized Thai foods. In this issue we highlight a handful of Isaan locales, but it’s merely the tip of the iceberg. There’s much more to this region and we encourage readers to explore the wealth of attractions this humble heartland has to offer.

bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | focus on isaan

The Isaan Enigma

We’ve given up trying to figure out why so few international visitors to Thailand—on average about two percent of per year—make it to Isaan, the vast northeastern region bordering Cambodia and Laos By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

saan eventually works its way into the hearts of Thailand’s more discerning repeat visitors, and also among expatriates who know the Kingdom well and who have had enough of the traffic jams of Bangkok and crowded sands of Southern islands. The slower pace of life, the chilled people, and lower prices found in Isaan are a primary draw, along with the region’s rich historical and cultural heritage. Geographically, the northeast sits apart from other regions atop the immense Khorat Plateau, which extends right across Isaan and into parts of Laos and Cambodia. The Phu Phan mountain range divides Isaan into two wide drainage basins, one fed by the Mekong River and its tributaries in the upper northeast, and another fed by the Chi and Mun Rivers in the lower northeast. These large, shallow bowls offer fertile territory amidst what is otherwise one of Thailand’s least productive regions—agriculturally speaking—due to longer, hotter dry seasons. Sakon Nakhon Basin, in upper Isaan, boasts Southeast Asia’s longest history of habitation, beginning with the 4,000-year-old bronze culture of Ban Chiang, which predates both Mesopotamia and China as a metallurgical and agricultural site. Although today part of Thailand, most of Isaan remained autonomous from early Thai kingdoms before the French arrived in the 18th century and created the Indochinese state of Laos, thus forcing Thailand to define its Northeastern boundaries. In the 20th century, poverty-stricken Isaan proved to be fertile ground for Southeast Asia’s widespread communist movement. Ho Chi Minh spent 1928-29 proselytizing in Udon Thani, Sakon Nakhon, and Khorat, and in the 1940s a number of Indochinese Communist Party leaders fled to Isaan from Laos and helped build the Communist Party of Thailand. Thus from the 1960s until 1982, Isaan was a hotbed of guerrilla activity, especially the provinces of Buriram, Loei, Ubon Ratchathani, Nakhon Phanom and Sakon Nakhon. Following Prime Minister Prem Tinsulanond’s amnesty of 1982, the Northeastern strongholds of the Communist Party dissolved rapidly. This process was hastened by a decade of economic growth that drew large numbers of Isaan peasants from the forests and rice fields to Bangkok and various provincial capitals. Today peaceful Isaan offers a rich blend of Khmer and Lao influences. Rising above the high plains of Northeastern Thailand, man-made stone peaks today bear witness to 4 4 | A PR I L 2017

the half-millennium reign of a powerful Khmer state which flourished from the 9th to 14th centuries. Although mostly known to today’s world as Angkor, another historical name for the civilization that extended from southern Laos and into western Cambodia—as well as much of Thailand’s lower northeast—was Isanapura. Meaning ‘Abode of Shiva’, in tribute to the principal religious tradition of the area for many centuries, the name was shortened to ‘Isaan’ by later generations of Siamese. Often erected on hilltops, the extraordinary towers of Isanapura were part of a temple architecture that

Khmer ruins at Prasat Phomphon, Surin province

symbolized Mount Meru, the mythical peak at the center of the Hindu-Buddhist universe. Surrounding Meru, this universe unfolds in concentric circles or squares representing seven continents alternating with cosmic oceans. Beyond the seventh continent stretches an infinite ocean interrupted solely by four ‘corner’ continents. In more advanced Khmer temple complexes, moats and ponds around and amongst the towers and pavilions were intended to represent the oceans in this cosmic universe. Sometimes referred to as ‘high Cambodia’, the provinces of Buriram, Surin, Nakhon Ratchasima, Surin, and Sisaket became a choice locale for the development of these Meru microcosms. Although Thai folk belief once held that the larger, cruciform-plan monuments served as palaces for Angkor’s all-powerful kings, in fact they were designed as worldly abodes for Shiva, Vishnu, Maitreya, and other Hindu or Buddhist deities called to earth via religious ritual. To the east of Isaan’s templebangkok101.com

focus on isaan | TRAVEL dotted plateaus lay the river valleys of ‘low Cambodia’, the monarchical capital of the Angkor civilization. Although often overlooked in favour of the famed Angkor city complex in Cambodia, the Khmer monuments of Isaan represent key architectural milestones in the development of Angkor design and ritual. Every Angkorperiod monument played a role in an elaborate cosmology that linked the entire network, half of which lies in what is today Thailand. The grand Prasat Hin Phimai temple complex in Nakhon Ratchasima served as a Tantric Buddhist center in the early 12th century. Meanwhile, in the more elevated terrain around Prasat Hin Phanom Rung, Isaan’s second most significant Khmer temple, Hinduism prevailed. A sacred “superhighway” linked Prasat Hin Phimai with 12th-century Angkor Wat, the largest and most complex of the Khmer temples. Angkor rulers were at the time considered to be devaraja or ‘god-kings’, and to maintain that vaunted status they and their priests periodically traveled between key monuments to perform complex ceremonies involving fire, water, and linga (sanctified stone sculptures representing Shiva’s phallus). These structures became so important to the sanctity of the Angkor Empire that some 300 Khmer shrines were erected between the 7th and 13th centuries. Monuments en route offered spiritual and temporal support along these potentially arduous journeys. In today’s Thailand, that includes 102 temples which were dedicated to ritual and 121 used as places where pilgrims could rest and receive medical attention. Meanwhile, along the Mekong River border with Laos, several Lao-style temples are found, including famed Wat Phra That Phanom with its gilded lotus-bud stupa. Many of the people living in this area speak Lao—or Thai dialects which are very close to Lao dialects spoken in Laos—and in fact there are more people of Lao heritage in Isaan than in all of Laos. In parts of lower Isaan, Khmer is the most common language. Isaan food is famous for its pungency and choice of ingredients. Well-known dishes include kai yaang (grilled chicken) and somtam (spicy salad made with grated papaya, lime juice, garlic, fish sauce and fresh chilies). Northeasterners eat glutinous rice with their meals, squeezing the almost translucent grains into wads with their hands, and then dipping the rice into the main dish before popping it into their mouths. Meals are communal affairs that traditionally take place on the floor. The music of Northeastern Thailand is highly distinctive in its folk tradition, using instruments such as the khaen, a Spicy Isaan delicacies bangkok101.com

Isaan dancing

reed instrument with two long rows of reed pipes fastened together; the ponglaang, a xylophone-like arrangement of short wooden logs; and the phin, a small three- or four-stringed lute played with a large plectrum. The most popular song forms are molam—a highly rhythmic style in which these instruments accompany vocalists singing in Isaan dialects. The best Thai silks are found in the northeast, particularly in Khorat, Khon Kaen, and Roi Et. Visitors to the Northeastern silk-weaving towns will uncover lots of bargains, as well as learn about Thai weaving techniques. Cotton fabrics from Loei, Nong Khai, and Nakhon Phanom are highly regarded, especially those woven using mat-mee methods, in which cotton threads are tie-dyed before weaving. Diving further into antiquity, Udon Thani province offers prehistoric cave drawings at Ban Pheu, south of Nong Khai, and a look at the ancient ceramic and bronze culture at Ban Chiang to the east of Udon. There was a time when tourist accommodations were relatively rare in Isaan, but today every provincial capital offers a variety of two-, three-, and four-star hotels as well as numerous guesthouses, villas, and semi-boutique hotels. One of the Colourful Isaan clothing most enjoyable ways to circulate through Isaan is to simply follow the Mekong River from Loei to Ubon, whether by local bus or rented car. Train travel is another convenient way to see the region, with three trunk lines operated by the State Railway of Thailand from Bangkok to Nong Khai, Ubon, and Aranya Prathet. Thai Airways, Nok Air, and Air Asia also offer flights to many of the larger towns of Isaan. A PR I L 2017 | 45

TRAVEL | focus on loei

In Love with Loei Come for the ghosts, stay for the guesthouses Words and photos by Bruce Scott

ituated on the upper and outer Western edges of Isaan, flush up against the Laos border, Loei is one of the kingdom’s undiscovered gems. It’s one of the least populated provinces in the country, but that relative obscurity works in its favour for travelers seeking wide open spaces, mountain greenery, and an overall laid-back pace. It also is home to two of Thailand’s most bizarre and colourful annual ghost festivals.

LOEI CITY If you fly to Loei province from Bangkok you’ll land in Loei City which, to be honest, is not the main draw of this province. However, if you do have some time to kill, there are some local attractions worth seeking out. WHAT TO DO: The Phapu Caves are mildly interesting, and inside there are several Buddha statues, two of which are in completely un-illuminated, pitch black alcoves (you won’t know they’re there until you shine a light on them). Outside, in the trees that surround the cave, you’ll see plenty of monkeys, most of whom are pretty used to visitors so it’s easy to get up close to take photos. If you’re feeling fit, you can also try hiking up the well-marked trail at Phu Ba Bid, a smallish mountain on the outskirts of Loei City. Make it to the top and you’ll be rewarded with some spectacular views. WHERE TO EAT: For a pleasant sampling of delicious Thai dishes, plus an elaborate Phi Ta Kon themed décor, visit the spacious Lanchang Garden Bar & Restaurant (777 Moo 9, Maliwan Rd), which offers indoor and outdoor seating and lots of photo ops. For tasty Vietnamese visit the Loei Danang Vietnam Food & Homestay, which has a lovely outdoor garden, a relaxing lounge and, as the name suggests, accommodations. WHERE TO STAY: Don’t get your hopes up too far if you’re checking into the Loei Palace Hotel (167/4 Charoenrat Rd), which is a 3 star 46 | A PR I L 2017

property, verging on 2.5 star status. But when you’re in rural Thailand there’s only so much you’re gonna get, so enjoy the comfortable beds, air-conditioning, proximity to the airport, swimming pool, and mountain views, and look past the rest (including the un-ironically kitschy 1970s architecture). The hotel is also home to the Wine de Bay Café, a pretty decent bistro that serves wine from Chateau de Loei—a local winery that is not worth visiting but definitely worth sampling. www.mosaic-collection.com/loeipalace

DAN SAI The main tourist draw for the city of Dan Sai is the annual Phi Ta Kon festival—an absolute must-see if you get the chance. But even if you can’t coincide your visit with the festival itself—which takes place in the 4th lunar month, usually June—you won’t escape the year-round ‘Phi Ta Kon’ branding during your stay. The elaborately crafted monster masks and costumes are everywhere and, at times, it verges on overkill. However, it’s an important part of the tourism industry here and a visit to the Phi Ta Kon Museum (open 9am till 5pm, Tel: 04 289 1094) is worth the effort. It doesn’t offer much back story on the festival itself, but it does do a half decent job of showing how to make the masks—which basically entails attaching a rice basket to a large piece of coconut bark, and then painting the whole thing to resemble a sardonically grinning monster.

BIKE TOUR: Dan Sai is a pretty laid back town and biking around is a nice way to experience it. One local attraction to seek out is the Phra That Sri Song Rak Pagoda, which was built in the Ayutthaya period, in 1560 AD. Just watch out for the “No Lady” signs (apparently some sites are too sacred for female visitors), and don’t wear red when you visit (it’s bad luck). Another temple worth checking out is Wat Neramitt Dressing in traditional costume at the Tai Dam Cultural Village bangkok101.com

focus on loei | TRAVEL

Phapu Cave monkey

Buddha statues in the Phapu Caves

Phra That Sri Song Rak

Wat Naramitt Vipatsana

Phi Ta Kon dancer

Phi Ta Kon parade

Phi Ta Kon mask

Phi Ta Kon Museum bangkok101.com

Mudmen A PR I L 2017 | 47

TRAVEL | focus on loei Vipatsana, which sits majestically on a forested hillside, just a short distance away from Sri Song Rak. The beautiful hall and pagoda here were both constructed of laterite (reddish clay), but the European-style lampposts, fountains, artfully pruned trees, and intricate carved detail are what really sets it apart visually.

ABOUT PHI TA KON: With the help

of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), we managed to make a visit to the studio of Mr. Apichart Kamkasem, who is regarded as the city’s pre-eminent Phi Ta Kon mask maker. He explained how the fearsome masks and costumes used to be much more basic. The elaborate modern masks only date back to the late 1930s, when horror movies first arrived in Thailand. Thais have a particular fascination with ghosts—and horror movies—which explains the evolution and enduring popularity of this particular festival. Meanwhile, the masks themselves are mini works of art and Apichart’s collection was eye-popping to say the least. The festival’s name roughly translates to “ghost with human eyes”, and the celebration is linked to the harvest season. The origins are traditionally ascribed to a story of the Vessantara Jataka in which the Buddha, in one of his past lives as a prince, embarked on a long journey but was presumed dead after so much time had passed. Upon his return, the celebrations were so raucous they could “wake the dead”. The dates for the 3-day event are selected annually by the local mediums—in 2017 it will be June 24th to 26th—and on the first day the town residents invite protection from Phra U-pakut (the spirit of the Mun river). The opening day celebrations also include a series of games and races, followed by a long and lavish parade. Many in the procession are wearing the infamous monster masks, patchwork clothing, and bells (some also wave bizarrely fashioned wooden phalluses—of all shapes and sizes), but the parade also includes dancers in traditional costume, musicians, and the “mudmen” who walk the parade route covered head to toe in dried mud. The second day incorporates a ‘Rocket Festival’—homemade rockets fired into the clouds to bring rains—plus costume and dance contests and more parades. On the third and final day, the villagers listen to sermons from monks.

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Phunacome Resort

WHERE TO STAY: For the eco-minded, a stay at the Phunacome Resort is highly recommended (it’s part of the Green Leaf Hotel program, among others). The Deluxe Rooms here are tastefully decorated and supremely comfortable, although you can also opt to stay in one of the more lavish stand-alone Isaan Houses on the hillside. The view from the outdoor swimming pool is lovely— overlooking a lush green mountain valley—and meals in the on-site Nacome Restaurant are quite delicious (although the breakfast and morning coffee left a bit to be desired). The owner is also helpful in organizing bike tours. www.phunacomeresort.com

CHIANG KHAN The town of Chiang Khan—right on the border with Laos—is a big hit with Thai tourists but is making a name for itself with Westerners too. It’s the kind of quaint riverside town that you can still find in Thailand, and (thankfully) many of the original wooden homes and shophouses of yesteryear have been left intact, which is the whole charm of this place. There are other highlights as well, the foremost being the fact that the town is built along the Mekong River, with numerous cafes and guesthouses overlooking its banks and a bike/footpath

Baan Supichaya bangkok101.com

focus on loei | TRAVEL

Phi Kon Nam

Phi Kon Nam mask

Main street of Chiang Khan, perfect for cycling (right)

running parallel to the undulating waterway. The main drag of the town is a hodgepodge of t-shirt stalls, souvenir shops, coffee shops, restaurants, guesthouses, and anything else that feeds the tourism machine. WHAT TO DO: Making your way up Phu Tok—470 meters above sea-level—to watch the sunrise is one of the big tourist highlights here. You have to get up pretty early (obviously) and once there you pay a B25 entry fee and ride in an open-back truck the rest of the way. Luckily, there’s virtually no further climbing once the truck lets you off. Expect crowds of diehard photographers when you arrive, all anxious to capture the sun coming up over the mountain ridge as the morning mist slowly dissipates to reveal the valley below. Phu Tok is located about 3 km SE of Chiang Khan (follow Route 211 in direction of Nong Khai). FESTIVALS: Loei’s second most popular ghost festival is Phi Kon Nam—roughly meaning “spirit who carries bangkok101.com

water”—and it’s meant to bring good rains for the growing season. Believing that the souls of departed cows and buffaloes wander the area, villagers wear elaborately painted horned masks and vibrant patchwork costumes to commune with the animal spirits. In true Thai fashion it’s loud, noisy, and colourful, and everyone gets involved (young, old, male, female, or other). The festival takes place in Ban Na Sao, 7 km south of Chiang Khan, and everyone gathers in a main outdoor area in the searing heat of May (the festival coincides with Visakha Bucha). Here, different “teams”—representing different villages— get their turn to dance before the mayor, governor, some elder monks, and other assorted local VIPs. CULTURE TOUR: Visiting the Tai Dam Cultural Village & Museum is a must-see while in this region. The village is home to an ethnic minority—Tai Dam—who came to Thailand from Laos in the early years of the 20th century. Their traditional lifestyle has been maintained A PR I L 2017 | 49

TRAVEL | focus on loei

Greenery and mountains

Tai Dam Village and Museum

Tai Dam weavers Kaeng Khut Khu

Tai Dam handicrafts

Tai Dam traditional costume

Riverside lunch

through their arts and crafts and the village centre offers a range of items for sale produced by the villagers. Visitors can also see demonstrations of their centuries old weaving process. The museum is a dusty 2nd floor area in the main house, and nothing much is explained in English, but it’s easy to get the gist of it all. In the other main house you can try on traditional outfits, although they are made of heavy thick material, and extensively layered, so be prepared to overheat. For more info call 081 048 2000.

WHERE TO STAY: The Baan Supichaya (183/1, Moo 2, Chaikhong Rd, Soi 14) is a great little guesthouse, with beautiful polished wooden floors and a pleasant, overall vibe. Try to secure one of the riverview rooms with the oversized balconies that extend far enough to accommodate a daybed (although the smaller riverside rooms are pleasant enough as well). The hotel’s restaurant is adjacent to a small coffee shop which is where guests have their breakfast. www.baansupichaya.com

SIGHTSEEING: Located at a particular bend in the Mekong River, Kaeng Khut Khu is one of those strange Thai tourist spots that gets more crowds than it seems to deserve. It’s not far from Chiang Khan, so it makes an OK day trip—but only when you’ve run out of other things to do. It’s interesting at certain times of the year, mainly around February to April when the water recedes and it looks like you can almost walk across the riverbed to Laos. After a walkabout to inspect the souvenir stalls, take in a meal in one of the outdoor Thai restaurants overhanging the river.

PHU RUEA

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Phu Ruea is a 1,365 meter-high mountain—part of the Phetchabun mountain range—and is the focal point of the Phu Ruea National Park. It’s also the highest peak in the province (Phu Kradueng at 1,316 meters is a close second, and both are popular with hikers). This part of the province is particularly scenic, and if you’re passing through you can check in overnight at the lovely Casa De Pandao Resort (located along the main road of route 21), which is built in faux Italian renaissance style. Tel: 081 260 1826 bangkok101.com

focus on korat | TRAVEL

From Classic to Kitsch

Korat’s hidden gems include historic remains and groovy 70s temples Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

Praying at the Thao Suranee Monument

et’s face it… Korat is not what travellers would call a historical jewel. The city is like many large urban areas in Thailand—there are a few old temples, but the town is mainly dominated by rather architecturally insignificant concrete buildings, mostly dating back to the 1970s and 80s. Like many cities in the centre of Thailand, Korat (also known by its full name, Nakhon Ratchasima) had been the target of bombs during World War II. The few interesting historical buildings, mostly made of wood, burned and were later replaced by quick-built structures. But does down this broken link to architectural history mean that Korat is not worth a visit? Far from it! Korat is, geographically, the closest Isaan city to Bangkok, however its relaxed old-fashioned style—where food and temples seem to determine the life of locals—is the antithesis of the chaotic capital (making it a great chillax destination). There is, in this city, a kind of pride about the past; about a glorious history which stretches as far back as the Khmer Empire and Ayutthaya Kingdom. bangkok101.com

In fact, the city used to be an important border post on the outskirts of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. The various gates and parts of the ancient wall, which still runs along the traditional moats in the city centre, are a reminder of this historically strategic position. Visitors should take a day to stroll at leisure around the town, starting with the Thao Suranee Monument, located in the heart of the city. The centerpiece is a statue, finished in 1934, which is the work of Italian sculptor and painter Corrado Feroci (aka: Silpa Bhirasri). But did this female figure, the wife of the deputy governor of the town, really exist? Thais believe she was a real character, but Laotians—who fought in the early 19th century against Siam annexation—think she is only a legend. Either way, she is credited with having fought against Laotian armies, and is fervently admired by locals. Korat inhabitants come to pray day and night in front of her statue, while small sala pavilions nearby feature traditional local song performances called Pleng Korat. In the evenings, the A PR I L 2017 | 51

TRAVEL | focus on korat

Wat Sala Loi

The Terminal 21 mall in Korat is even bigger and better than the one in Bangkok, and visitors are allowed free access to the 30-storey ’Control Tower’ which offers spectacular panoramic views of the city, especially at night.

marble area around the statue has become a favourite hangout for skateboarders. Around the monument is the city’s old wall, built by French engineers in the 17th century, and while the Chumpon Gate is the only original structure remaining of the wall, the rebuilt Yao Mo Gate is by far the most impressive bit, with its sophisticated and elegant wooden watchtower (two other gates were rebuilt north and south of the old town). Few traditional wooden Thai houses survived the wartime bombing, but a couple of nice buildings are still visible in the city’s Chinatown (Mahathai, Chakri, and Chumphon roads), where a small night market exists. However, two temples reconstructed in the 1970s are definitely worth a look. Located near to Yao Mo Gate, the Wat Phayat temple compound has a massive grey marble 52 | A PR I L 2017

Ya Mo Gate

temple which reinterprets, in a contemporary style, a Thai traditional wat. Opposite the main ubosot is an artificial grotto with Buddha figures surrounded by stalactites. By contrast, Wat Sala Loi is a masterpiece of contemporary architecture, and won an award from the Siam Architects Society for its avant-garde design. Constructed in 1973, it’s shaped like a Chinese Junk boat with triangle windows and stylized, minimalist gable-end finials on the temple roof. Around the temple a garden offers a sharp contrast to the minimalist wat, complete with life-size cartoon figures (including Spiderman and Captain America), kitchy statues, and brightly coloured real—and plastic—flowers. bangkok101.com

focus on korat | TRAVEL

AN ‘ANGKOR’ PASSAGE : ROAD TRIP THROUGH THE RUINS

Travel from Korat to Buriram while stopping along the highway at some of Thailand’s most spectacular ancient Khmer temples

Phnom Rung

Some 60 km north of Korat, one of the most important ancient roads exists, beginning at the site of the former city of Viyamapura, the western outpost of the Khmer empire. The complex here known as Prasat Phimai can be considered Thailand’s largest, and best preserved, Khmer temple. The structure was built at the end of the 11th century—a century before the masterpiece of Angkor Wat in Cambodia—and was inventoried in 1901 by Thai and French archeologists and scientists. The temple complex is part of the Phimai Historical Park and has been superbly restored. Most spectactular is the central sanctuary with its delicately sculpted façade bearing a giant Garuda on its western face (late afternoon is the perfect time to visit, when the temple is bathed in golden light). Meanwhile, a visit to the Phimai Museum reveals an outstanding collection of sculpture, jewellery, and statues coming from Southeast Isaan. Phimai is located on an ancient 400 km long highway which linked all important Khmer cities to the centre of the empire in Angkor. Heading east from Korat, the next large temple complex along the route is Phnom Rung, probably the most spectacular Khmer temple in Thailand. Located 135 km southeast of Phimai, this temple is a majestic introduction to Buriram province, and benefits from a stunning location. Perched on a small

bangkok101.com

Prasat Phimai

hill, at a height of 400 metres, the pinkish sand stone temple is a peaceful place to visit. The construction period stretched from the early 10th to the late 12th century, and the result is a magnificent structure with decoration and iconography that pays respect to the local ruler’s family, the Mahidharapura dynasty. A paved causeway leads to a stairway, flanked on either side by snakelike naga sculptures, which provides a pictorial access to the central sanctuary and its delicate carvings. Early morning is the best time to see the sun rising on the temple, as it turns from a dark pinky orange to a lovely pale pink. Too bad so few visitors witness this spectacle.

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TRAVEL | focus on buriram

United We Stand

Buriram positions itself as Thailand’s sports capital

ike hundreds of others cities in Thailand, Buriram is of middle size, has its fair share of temples, as well as a market and a few nice restaurants to enjoy Isaan specialties. For history buffs there is a small information centre at the campus of Buriram Rajabhat University telling all about the history and culture of Lower Northeastern Isaan. Buriram is also not part of the ‘Big 4 of Isaan’, a term given to the industrial powerhouse cities of Korat, Khon Kaen, Ubon Ratchathani, and Udon Thani. But despite its demure disposition, this lively locale has definitely gained more fame than its counterparts thanks to its position as Thailand’s capital city of sports, with the presence of its famous football club—the Buriram United F.C.—as well as the Chang International Circuit motorsport racetrack.

However, the road to this sporting success was not always smooth. Back in 2011, skepticism greeted the decision of former politician and businessman Nevin Chidchob—who had been an owner of the local Buriram football club since 2009—to build a giant stadium and invest massively in the city’s football team, with the aim of turning it into a champion club both in Thailand and across Asia. In 2011, after a year under construction, the I-Mobile Stadium—known as the Buriram Thunder Castle—opened its doors. The investment reached US$30 million, and created Thailand’s largest stadium, with a capacity of 32,500 persons. “The stadium has not only transformed Buriram, injecting a new dynamism in its economy, but it also changed the perception of the city in the eyes of most Thai people,” says Mr. Mod Dang, the stadium’s managing director. “This would represent roughly 850,000 visitors a year to the stadium. We receive on average 3,000 visitors per day to the stadium while football events attract some 25,000 spectators on average. 54 | A PR I L 2017

“The more trophies for Amari Buriram United Football Club, the more followers and friends,” adds Mod. “The reputation of the club now stretches far beyond Thailand itself with Cambodia and Laos turning into new markets.” Capitalizing on sports is turning Buriram into Thailand’s largest sport events destination, and that reputation continues to grow with the 2014 opening of Nevin Chidchob’s newest “baby”, the Chang International Circuit motorsport racetrack. It is the first FIA Grade 1 and FIM Grade A circuit in Thailand for motorcycle races. “The investment topped US$60 million but it has paid off,” explains Mod. “We’ve already hosted two major events. The Japan Super GT Autobac race attracted over 130,000 viewers over three days, while the Super TT race was followed by 100,000 spectators last January. We want to organize three to four major events per year, and many national competitions too.” This facility offers to viewers an almost complete vision of the race. It is also designed to promote private events with a function room able to accommodate 7,000 people and private rides for car testing. “This is not the end of it and we have a lot of new projects coming which is turning the area between the stadium and the circuit into an event and leisure city,” Mod points out. “A mall with a garden has been open since 2016, and we are currently working on the construction of a cinema complex. There is also a “box” hotel, with 80 rooms, being built next to the circuit.” Due to its exposure nationwide, Buriram is turning into an increasingly attractive destination. Tourism is now booming, fuelled by direct flights from Bangkok by both AirAsia and Nok Air. In 2015, the total number of visitors reached 1.3 million, while revenues hit US$40 million. Not bad for a “little known” city! by Luc Citrinot bangkok101.com

nakhon phanom and sakon nakhon | TRAVEL

Indochinese Influences

Nakhon Phanom and Sakon Nakhon were influenced in their development by French Indochina, which left a surprising legacy in both provinces Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

National Library (former City Hall)

y sharing a border with nearby Laos, along the Mekong River, both Nakhon Phanom and Sakon Nakhon have been influenced in their development by French Indochina. The often authoritarian colonial regime in Laos and Vietnam, as well as the more recent Vietnam War, both brought a wave of Vietnamese emigrants. This, in turn, left a surprising cultural legacy in and around both provinces. And although neither locale is likely to become a priority destination for foreign visitors, a few intrepid souls might find them just the right places to enjoy a laid back holiday. Nakhon Phanom, nestled along the Mekong River, is a peaceful pretty corner of Isaan. For local Thais, the city is perceived as an important Buddhist pilgrimage destination. Following Thai Buddhist rituals, the province and its eight temples incarnate all seven days of the week (one temple represents the entire week), and to get good bangkok101.com

luck Thais go to the temple corresponding to the day of the week on which they were born. The most revered temple is Phra That Phanom, which contains major Buddha relics. The temple was rebuilt after its Laotian style stupa collapsed following heavy flooding in 1975. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always been considered the spiritual centre of Isaan, and Laos people. For foreigners, Nakhon Phanom embodies certainly a certain quintessential Thai way of life, with its wellmaintained riverfront, as well as a string of ancient buildings alternating with elegant wats along the Mekong River. But the city also offers history buffs a fascinating plunge into Indochinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tumultuous past. While colonial French rule influenced life across the border in neighbouring Laos, and on into Vietnam, Nakhon Phanom represented, for opponents to the French presence, a welcoming refuge. Many Vietnamese feeling oppressed by the French resettled on the Thai side of the A PR I L 2017 | 55

TRAVEL | nakhon phanom and sakon nakhon Mekong, and their influence is still detectable to this day— not only in local food, with distinctive Vietnamese flavours, but also in some of the buildings. Echoing French Indochinese architecture on the Laotian side of the Mekong, Thai governors ruling over Nakhon Phanom asked Vietnamese craftsmen to help in designing administrative structures. The former Governor’s House, with its tiled roof and wooden shutters, would certainly not look out of place in Takhek, the Laotian city across the border. The old residence was built between 1915 and 1925, and employed the skills of a certain Kuba Jaroen, a Vietnamese local craftsman. The beautifully restored house is today a museum where many ancient photographs of the town, as well as some old furniture, are on display. In another part of town the Suntorn Wichit School, with its long arcade, evokes images of French schools in Saigon, while the St. Anna Church, built in 1926 and destroyed during the Vietnam War, was constructed by

importing materials from Saigon. The modern church built in its place offers less interest, but the priest’s seminary in the church compound still has a typical French Indochinese style. Another beautiful colonial style structure is the current Queen Sirikit National Library. Built between 1915 and 1919—again by Vietnamese craftsmen—the building was previously the City Hall and has a distinctive neo-classical Palladian style. Partially bombed during World War II, it was reconstructed according to the original plans. Its dark yellow colours, fountain, and manicured flower beds give the area an Italian feeling. In addition, along Gubartavai and Suntorn Wichit roads, and around the Vietnamese Memorial Clock Tower, one can find many French Indochina style buildings obviously constructed by Vietnamese immigrants. Just a few kms from the city centre, another surprise awaits history lovers. The village of Ban Nan Chok was

Governor’s Residence

Indochinese house (detail)

Memorial Clock Tower

Governor’s Residence (interior) 56 | A PR I L 2017

Mekong River

Phra That Phanom bangkok101.com

nakhon phanom and sakon nakhon | TRAVEL

French house, Tha Rae

St. Michael Church Ho Chi Minh house

St. Anne Church

Building detail (Sakon Nakhon)

home, for a period of four years, to none other than Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam’s most emblematic leader (he lived there from 1927 to 1931). His small wooden house is surrounded by a huge garden, and the guardian of the property is proud to tell that ‘Uncle Ho’ himself planted some of the trees there. Inside the house is a museum dedicated to the father of revolutionary Vietnam. It’s almost like a pilgrimage stop, with its numerous banners, and flowers surrounding a shrine dedicated to this historical figure. It’s a piece of communism history in the midst of Thailand, and that should be unusual enough to generate some well-deserved curiosity! Meanwhile, some 65 km west of Nakhon Phanom airport, and 23 km north of Sakon Nakhon city, stands the old village of Tha Rae (in Sakon Nakhon province). The village is home to a Catholic community, most of whom emigrated from Vietnam. The first Christian Vietnamese immigrants settled in the village around bangkok101.com

Ho Chi Minh house

1884, and rapidly prospered, eventually becoming Thailand’s largest Catholic community. Today, 11,000 people live in the area, but back when the area was being first settled the community recreated their conditions in French Indochina with a city layout inspired by European standards, with the St. Michael Church representing the heart of town. Tha Rae has some of Thailand’s most beautiful arcade villas and houses, constructed in the same style as in Vietnam. A dozen of these houses survived the usual damage inflicted by passing time, including humidity and general lack of maintenance. Due to its strong Catholic traditions, Christmas celebrations here are probably the most beautiful in the Kingdom, with trees and houses decorated with brightly lit stars. A star festival is then organized on December 25th, with a procession along the main road. The Christmas star parade is part of the celebrations throughout the Muang district since they believe the “star” is the symbol of Jesus. A PR I L 2017 | 57

TRAVEL | focus on khon kaen

Time Travel

Khon Kaen: the land that time forgot… for now Words by Gary Anthony Rutland Photos by Bruce Scott

o you like time travel? Of course you do. Well, you’re in luck, as just a short plane ride from Bangkok is all it takes to journey back in time—yet still enjoy all the delights and comforts of the present day. The destination in question is Khon Kaen, the largest and wealthiest city in Isaan. It boasts a highly respected university and is considered by many to be the regions most sophisticated urban centre. And despite the recent addition of a trio of dull grey, cookie-cutter skyscrapers, it’s still mostly refreshingly free from the blight of 21st century “urban renewal”, bestowing it with a latter-day rustic air that is increasingly difficult to find as bulldozers race to erase anything remotely aesthetically pleasing in Thailand’s cities and towns.

riguer photo-ops so important to attractions of this kind. Among the performers was a tiny toddler (probably three years old at most) who came onstage draped in a python roughly the same size as himself. It provided yet another moment of head-shaking bemusement, something you’ll probably experience more than once when visiting this most singular, but fascinating, attraction.

Real live silkworms

Seeing eye-to-eye at King Cobra Village

KING COBRA VILLAGE: For a more carnivalesque attraction, travel about 50 km Northeast to Ban Knok Sa-Nga, or ‘King Cobra Village’ as it’s more commonly known. One certainly takes a trip back in time when visiting this isolated, rural community. There’s a link here with mankind’s primeval past that seems to conjure up spirits both animal and human. Watching septuagenarian men “boxing” venomous cobras provides visitors with a sufficiently surreal spectacle, and on the afternoon I visited a crowd of mostly young schoolchildren were there as well, ghoulishly lapping it all up. At the end of the 20-minute performance more slithery reptiles—nonvenomous pythons this time—were carted out by their handlers and offered to audience members for the de58 | A PR I L 2017

SILK WEAVING VILLAGE: Another example of the local desire to retain, and promote, old practices can be found when visiting the Baan Huafai Mudmee Silk Weaving Group headquarters in Hua Fai Village (46, Moo 2, Pordang, Chonnabot, which is about 2 hours south of Khon Kaen City). Over 200 households here are involved in some way with the production of traditional mudmee silk. The group is led by the charming, English speaking Nidda Phlaenkee, and you will receive a typically warm Isaan welcome when you visit, along with a fascinating introduction to the ages old silk-weaving practices that have made the silk produced here famous throughout Thailand. After observing a pair of local women practicing a new form of painting on silk—which adds to the existing tradition of creating patterns and colours—Nidda brought out a woven basket filled with real live silkworms and I got to touch one of these intriguing insects (quite strange in a non-eventful fashion). Anyone visiting this village will get a truly “authentic” Isaan experience, and homestays are available for those wanting to learn more (and although plain the accommodations look like an excellent value at B200 per night). For more info call 083 656 5644, or email jnidda@hotmail.com. bangkok101.com

focus on khon kaen | TRAVEL

TEMPLES: Khon Kaen City derives its name from Prathat Kham Kaen, a Laotian-style Chedi built in the 1700s. It’s situated about 20 km northeast of the city, on a site made sacred by the vast tamarind tree which can be seen flourishing in the immaculately kept grounds. The tree is the source of the legend behind the temple’s origin, and the Buddha relics contained within. Northwest of the city, at Ban Sawathi, you can find Wat Chai Si, a tiny but fascinating Sim or Ubosot (ordination hall) covered inside and out with dilapidated murals that are some of the few examples remaining of early 20th century rural Buddhist folk art. Crudely drawn, and often horrifically graphic in nature, they depict—in their own unique fashion—the usual Buddhist scripture stories, and are of particular note for their inclusion of a variety of local customs. This temple has been a designated National Ancient Monument since 2001, and there’s also a folk museum close by to visit with rare Northeastern folk equipment and utensils. Within the confines of the city itself the most striking landmark is the Nine Storey Stupa (pictured), which can be found at Wat Nong Waeng, a royal temple on Klang Mueang Rd, on the edge of Kaen Nakhon Lake. The view from the 9th floor is breathtaking—as is the walk up all those stairs—and the carvings on door and window panels are strikingly ornate. This stunning monument was built to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the revered late King Bhumibol’s accession to the throne, as well as Khon Kaen’s 200th civic anniversary, and at night the temple’s 80 metre spire is illuminated, providing a pleasant addition to the evening skyline. On the morning I visited, a pair of elderly musicians were playing hypnotic soothing molam music on traditional instruments—a phin (a lute-like cross between a violin and guitar), and a ranat-ek (Thailand’s percussive version of a xylophone). The delicate sound added to the wonderfully natural and timeless atmosphere.

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TRAVEL | focus on khon kaen PHU WIANG DINOSAUR MUSUEM: In 1976 the geologist Sudham Yaemniyom discovered a piece of dinosaur bone in the bed of a stream, and his discovery subsequently added a whole new chapter to Thai history. Since that time four new species of dinosaur have been discovered and catalogued in and around Phu Wiang mountain—among them the wonderfully named Siamosaurus, a seven-meter-long water dwelling fish eater. Today, reptile buffs can visit the Phu Wiang Dinosaur Museum (Tel: 043 438 2046), which is located near to the site of the first discovery. This excellent modern museum is well worth the drive, and once you’ve finished the informative, interactive tour—complete with a collection of elaborately detailed, scale-model animatronic prehistoric beasts—you can visit the nearby recreational area known as Sri Wiang Dinosaur Park. Here you can take a few fun photos as you walk and play outdoors among an array of life-size replica dinosaur statues. NAM PHONG NATIONAL PARK: This 197 sq.km park, situated in and around the Ubolratana Dam, is a must for nature lovers. Follow the 2146 Highway (off Highway 12) which is a long and winding narrow forest road that leads to one of three entrances to the Nam Phong National Park. From there it’s a short stroll along an easy to follow path—past a handful of humungous weird and wonderfully shaped rocks—that ultimately delivers you to a breathtaking covered viewpoint overlooking a massive reservoir to the west, and Khon Kaen to the east.

The gargantuan rocks, which seem to have been scattered here by the hands of giants, were used in the past by wild elephants for “flank-scratching”, and many bear traces of their prehistoric past as well. Several of these building-sized boulders are fitted with handrails so they can be ascended, providing further spectacular views. During our visit we were informed by a typically friendly group of underpaid, danger-dodging Park Rangers that they will soon erect a new 3-storey viewpoint, and improve the existing ones as well. Later, as we followed the rangers along a spectacular forest path close to a cliff edge, we saw a lone eagle—one of Thailand’s largest eagle species—effortlessly gliding on thermals, and lazily looking for supper hundreds of feet above the still water below. The sighting capped an unforgettable nature experience that had me reluctant to leave, and desperate to come back for a much longer visit. Home to wild boar, barking deer and wolf, the thought of spending a night camping in the interior still has appeal although I suspect one would have to be accompanied by rangers as the park is still completely wild and untamed in many places. It’s worth noting that rangers in parks all over Thailand have an exceedingly difficult task, but most are in it for the love of the job (and the environment). They often run the risk of being attacked by poachers, but an even bigger risk here is sunburn and dehydration. So don’t forget your sunscreen and bring plenty of water if you visit. Isaan is brutally hot throughout most of the year, and the nearest 7-11 to these scenic surroundings is a long, long way away.

Actual dinosaur bones unearthed near Phu Wiang mountain

Fun and games at Sri Wiang Dinosaur Park 60 | A PR I L 2017

Thanks heavens it’s only a model bangkok101.com

focus on khon kaen | TRAVEL

Panoramic views at Nam Phong Nation Park

Weird rock formations

Family-friendly nightlife at Ton Tann

Ant larvae stew

Murals at Wat Chai Si

WHERE TO EAT: Khon Kaen’s predominantly Laoinfluenced cuisine is well represented by a plethora of cheap eateries that offer famous Isaan specialties—from palate scorching Som Tam, to lime-infused Laab—at ridiculously reasonable prices in settings redolent of the 50s, 60s, and 70s. You’ll also find a surprising amount of fish and seafood on offer, as the area is blessed with numerous fish farms helping to satiate the locals borderline obsessive love for aquatic feasts of every stripe. Bamboosteamed Snakehead fish seemed to be particularly popular, and this appropriately named water creature is served in dramatic fashion at Beer Woon Restaurant (Tel: 04 333 2719), where the waiter arrives with a steaming bamboo pipe that is then emptied onto the plate to reveal a perfectly cooked fishy main course. And if that’s not culinary adventure enough for you, why not try some ant larvae? Available in a variety of entrees—including omelette and soup form—these wee white worms have a slightly crunchy texture (similar to that of raw garlic) and sort of burst when chewed, but the best news is… they don’t wiggle! You can try them at Praprai Restaurant (Tel: 081 544 6628), which is located close to the airport. NIGHTLIFE: Once the sun goes down the Ton Tann Green Market lights up the night. This new night market— located in the heart of Khon Kaen City off Mittraphap Rd— bangkok101.com

Dedicated Park Rangers

is somewhat similar in design and feel to Bangkok’s W District. It’s an ambitious project aimed at promoting the arts, and creative culture in general, to the town’s inhabitants. Home to five “performance stages”, an open air cinema, a free art gallery, and countless shops, drink spots and restaurants, Ton Tann is a great place to spend a pleasant afternoon and/or evening—whether watching elephant and crocodile shows with the kids, or having a drink with a date. For more information about travel in and around this area of Isaan, visit www.tourismthailand.org/khonkaen

WHERE TO STAY Located in the city centre, just a short drive from the airport, the Pullman Khon Kaen Raja Orchid is one of the city’s premiere luxury upscale hotels, designed for business travelers and holiday makers alike. The spacious rooms are well-designed, and there are six restaurants and four bars to choose from. The property also offers a fitness centre, an outdoor pool, a day spa, and it’s also close to the noisy nightlife action on Pracha Samran Rd. www.pullmanhotels.com

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TRAVEL | upcountry now

SONGKRAN April 13-15

In April, in Thailand, there’s really only one festival on everyone’s mind and that’s Songkran, the Thai New Year, which officially runs from April 13-15. Traditional merit making rituals, such as sprinkling scented water on Buddha images, are celebrated in grand fashion at Bangkok temples such as Wat Pho and Wat Arun. However, more raucous revellers take to the streets—particularly around Khao San Road and Silom Road—for unparalleled water fights using pistols, buckets and high-powered cannons. Prepare to get very wet (and stay that way).

THE ORIGINS OF SONGKRAN: The cultures of the Mekong region—Thailand, Laos, Yunnan, Myanmar, Cambodia, and Vietnam—share an affinity for water that goes beyond their shared geographic link to one of the world’s mightiest rivers. Over a thousand years ago the peoples of this region first began forming settlements centered in river valleys along the Red River in southern China and northern Vietnam, and as far west as the Salween River in what is today eastern Myanmar’s Shan State. At one time, two migrational flows predominated: a northern terminus focused around the Yuan Jiang and Guangxi provinces, and a southern terminus along Thailand’s Chao Phraya River. Among the many intermediate migrational zones, the Mekong River valley through China, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam formed the largest. Beginning as early as the eighth century AD, but most certainly by the 10th century, local meuang (“principalities” or “city-states”) were formed. Wherever these meuang sprang up, waterways natural and man-made served not only as sources for nutrition, bathing, agriculture and transport, but as important cultural adjuncts. The most important festival in the entire region is the celebration of the solar-lunar New Year, when the sun passes from the sign of Pisces into the sign of Aries in the zodiac. Called Samkranta (Sanskrit for “fully passed over”), this festival demands that people take a few days out of their normal work schedules for spiritual cleansing and renewal. Believers hold that during this short period the spirit of the previous year departs and a new one arrives. Hence, on the first day of the festival, people give their homes a thorough cleaning to welcome the New Year 62 | A PR I L 2017

spirit. New clothes will be worn, and in many households there is a ritual disposal of old clothing and other dispensable household possessions. Water, representing the principal agent for this cleansing and renewal, plays a central role throughout the festival. Buddha images receive a ritual bathing as faithful Buddhists take turns pouring water over them. The faithful will also pour water over the hands of older Buddhist monks, and at home will perform the same ceremony for elders in the family. Although the original meaning of the water festival is kept alive by ceremonies such as these, nowadays it’s also very much a festival of fun. In most of the Mekong region, this is the height of the hot and dry season, and residents revel in being able to douse one another with water to cool off. In Bangkok, and a few other populous cities, the festival has escalated to a full-scale water war, involving pump-action water rifles, hoses, and virtually anything else that can deliver water with force. However, as the period of mourning is still underway for the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, festivities might be a bit more subdued than in previous years.

SONGKRAN AROUND THAILAND: In Chiang Mai the New year celebration is extended by two days (April 12-16), and the streets also serve as a venue for an international tribute to the shared cultures of the Mekong Basin, with processions along Tha Phae, Ratchadamnoen and Suthep roads showcasing the traditional costumes and dance traditions. In Nong Khai the festival runs one extra day (April 12-15), with most activity centering around Wat Pho Chai. In Ayutthaya, at the city’s UNESCO Historical Park, visitors can take part in Songkran festivities with elephants (in front of the TAT, Ayutthaya Office). Find out more about Songkran in Thailand at: www.tourismthailand.org. bangkok101.com

ART

| ART & CULTURE

Mode of Liaisons

A collaborative art project with curators from Japan and select Southeast Asian countries

his exhibit at the BACC is part of THE CONDITION REPORT. For those who may not have heard of The Condition Report, it is collaborative art project that includes curators from Japan and select Southeast Asian countries, with the objectives to incubate young curators through working in collaboration with senior curatorsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;planning projects across the region. The last exhibition by senior curators is the one that will be presented to Bangkok audiences. It is being staged under the title of MODE OF LIAISONS, a concept that is rooted from a biological standpoint, employing the works of art from each of the senior curatorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; previous selections in other cities, the end result stemming out with the new artworks selected to reach the conceptual whole. Mode of Liaisons aims to look at the meaning which is not only embedded in the artworks, but also the ecosystem in which the artworks are vitalized. This concept views a work of art as a living organism with appendages that move and adapt the meaning of its own existence. Moreover, it aims to explore the essence hidden in the point of interaction between networks of each different work, which can, in turn, lead to the exploration of further meaningful relationships. MODE OF LIAISONS runs until JULY 2 at the BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE (8F, 939 Rama 1 Rd). Viewing hours are Tuesday to Sunday, from 10am to 9pm. For more information, call 02 214 6630. www.bacc.or.th

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

UNTIL APRIL 29 See Saw Seen VI

Ardel’s Third Place Gallery Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10:30am-7pm, Sun, 10:30am-5:30pm Tel: 02 714 7929 | www.thirdplacebangkok.com/gallery

With the collaboration of Sony Thai Co. Ltd., Ardel’s Third Place Gallery is presenting a new edition of their celebrated photography exhibitions. This one showcases 13 Thai artists and photographers: Pishnu Supanimit, Dow Wasiksiri, Thavorn Ko-udomvit, Rachot Visalarnkul, Kanok Suriyasat, Surin Banyat-piyapoj, Nitikorn Kraivixien, Wasinburee Supanichvoraparch, Taweechai Jaowattana, Somsak Pattanapitoon, Tul Hirunyalawan, Urasha Jakkachaphol, and Charit Pusiri. Audiences will be met with a new series of remarkable works of art that reflect each artist’s personal vision.

UNTIL MAY 15 Hot Summer by the Klong YenakArt Villa

69 Soi Prasat Suk, Yen Akat Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Fri, 2pm-7pm, Sat, 12pm-4pm Tel: 02 235 9800 | www.yenakartvilla.com

In this show, Andrew Stahl will exhibit his paintings made during a recent residency near Bangkok’s Chinatown (where he spent most of the summer 2016). The new paintings reflect on the experience, memories, and thoughts of this time spent working intensely through the heat, as well as his brief foray to Italy. The exhibition will consist of both large and small works, including drawings and a large sculpture made in situ in the garden of the gallery. Andrew Stahl is Professor of Fine Art and Head of Undergraduate Painting at the UCL, Slade School of Fine Art in England.

UNTIL MAY 21 Made by Microwave The Gallery

36F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G Viewing hours: daily, 10am-5pm Tel: 02 352 4000 | www.pullmanbangkokhotelg.com

The collection was inspired by the daily life of artist Kanitharin Thailamtong, which revolves around a traditional shophouse and a round Chinese dining table. For generations, the artist’s family have lit incense and prayed in many locations around the shophouse. She was told that her ancestors travelled from mainland China in a traditional junk sailing boat. Today, reunions with family are important and celebrations always include feasting together at the round table. The work on show explores changing narrative within the family home and which is better—the round Chinese dining table-style of eating or microwaved meals? 66 | A PR I L 2017

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

UNTIL MAY 21 Val

S Gallery Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. Viewing hours: daily, 10am-10pm Tel: 093 582 6588 | www.facebook.com/sgallerysukhumvit

The ‘Val’ in the title of this exhibition is French artist Valérie Goutard, who was born in France in 1967. She came upon sculpture for the first time in 2001, and followed her inner journey—immersing herself in the observation of nature. In April 2016, she installed three sculptures, made of concrete, bronze, and coral, in an underwater site on Koh Tao island in Thailand. Unfortunately, in October 2016, Val died in a tragic road accident in Thailand. A few days before, she had just finished a monumental sculpture project for a Taiwanese private collector.

UNTIL MAY 31 A New Interpretation of the Paradoxical World Nova Contemporary

Soi Mahadlek-Luang 3, Rajdamri Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 11am-8pm Tel: 090 910 6863 | www.novacontemporary.com

Even though we live in a high tech world with vast amounts of information at our fingertips, we are still searching for answers to age old questions: “what is the meaning of life?” and “why do we feel lonely?” When artist Narissara Pianwimungsa looks at people she can sometimes see their unhappiness emanating from within. These feelings are both abstract and personal, so she uses the animal form to represent them, thus linking to our subconscious. She also uses embroidery to remind people of feelings they may have forgotten.

UNTIL JUNE 18 People, Money, Ghosts (Movement as Metaphor)

The Jim Thompson Art Center, Bangkok 6, Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd. Viewing hours: daily, 9am-8pm Tel: 02 612 6741 | www.jimthompsonartcenter.org

This exhibition, curated by Roger Nelson, features the artists Khvay Samnang, Amy Lien & Enzo Camacho, and Nguyen Thi Thanh Mai. It explores how the travel and migration of populations and industries, ideas and spiritual beliefs, aesthetics and technologies—and artists themselves—are continually remaking our world. All of the exhibited pieces were created not in the “home” cities of the artists, but rather in distant sites charged with locally specific meanings. The works consider movement both as an experience, and as an object of artistic research. bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | cinema scope

King Cobra

CartelLand

What a Way to Go!

Mundane History

Afterimage

Film News & Screenings I

By Bruce Scott

t’s another busy month for this city’s film fans. On Sunday April 9th, Bangkok’s historic Scala Cinema will be showing Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, the classic 1953 musical comedy starring Marilyn Monroe. The screening is part of the ongoing ‘World Class Cinema’ series, which presents a different classic film each month. Showtime is 12 noon, and tickets are B100. Call 02 251 2861 for more information. For meatier fare, head to the Foreign Correspondent’s Club of Thailand (FCCT) where April’s line up of documentaries begins on April 3rd with CartelLand (2015), from Mexico, which tells the tale of a citizen uprising against a violent drug cartel. On April 10th catch The Wolfpack, a 2015 doc about two brothers in New York who learn about the outside world solely through the films that they watch. The final screening—this time not a documentary—will take place on April 24th, with Dark Fortune (2016), a Swiss film about a young boy with a dark secret. The evening includes a discussion with director Stefan Haupt. Admission is B150 for FCCT non-members (free for members). The Bangkok Screening Room is also presenting a wide range of interesting titles this month, starting with King Cobra (2016), which takes a deliciously dark, twisted plunge into the behind-the-scenes world of the pornography industry. Other notable titles include: Imperium (2016), in which FBI agents go undercover in order to infiltrate a group of dangerous extremists; Mundane History (2009), a Thai film about a young man—paralyzed from the waist down—and his male nurse; and What a Way to Go! (1964), 68 | A PR I L 2017

a musical comedy starring Shirley MacLaine. In addition, on two separate days in April—the 1st and the 9th—the BSR will present a marathon of four classic films that have won an Oscars for ‘Best Picture’; namely Rebecca (1940), The Sound of Music (1965), Around the World in 80 Days (1956), and My Fair Lady (1964) On Saturday, April 29th, the ‘Contemporary World Film Series’ at Thailand Knowledge (TK) Park—located on the 8th floor of CentralWorld (999/9 Rama 1 Rd)—presents the 2016 film Afterimage by director Andrzej Wajda. It was the last film made by Poland's most famous filmmaker before he died in October of last year. Set in the years from 1948 to 1952, the film follows a painter and art professor, beloved by his students, as he fights a losing battle against Poland’s Soviet-controlled Communist government, while at the same time never compromising his ideals. The screening will take place at 4pm, and will be followed by snacks and refreshments provided by the Polish Embassy in Bangkok. Tickets are only B20 each. For more information, visit www.tkpark.or.th. Finally, on April 30th Signal Flair presents the Seen By Scene Festival, BKK which is taking place at Mustache Bangkok (an über-hip bar and dance club on Ratchadapisek Soi 7). It’s part of a larger film contest called ‘Poetry In Motion’, in which filmmakers have submitted 2-3 minute short films. There will be a B10,000 cash prize for the best film awarded during the festivities. Things get underway at 7pm, and tickets are B400 (all tickets come with complimentary drink). www.facebook.com/signalflair bangkok101.com

BANGKOKARTMAP

Art & Culture Photo Feature

Art can come in many forms, including the humble postage stamp Words and photos by Marc Schultz/Black Star Publishing

For dedicated philatelists—stamp collectors—the beauty of Thailand’s magnificent postage stamps is one draw, but the fascinating history of the Siamese Postal Service, which dates back more than 133 years, is an equal attraction. Nearly half a century before neighbouring Southeast Asian countries had their own postal services, the visionary Siamese people knew that a postal system, together with interprovincial delivery routes, would lay the foundation for the future of Thai communications and trade. Through the institution of a simple paper-gummed label, Siam would establish a means of developing greater social unity amongst Thailand’s indigenous peoples, who at the time were still largely separated from one another by long distances. Siam’s first set of postage stamps was issued on August 4th, 1883, to inaugurate the commencement of the Siamese Postal Service on the same date. William Ridgeway, of Waterlow and Sons Ltd. in London, England, had been commissioned to design, print, and issue this first set of Thai postage stamps, which consisted of six different steel plate-engraved designs with the highest value worth 0.25 baht (known locally as a salung). The set—named the ‘Solot series’—was issued in six vivid colour tones, with each stamp

featuring a left-facing portrait of H.M. The King Rama V. Back then, a solot was one of the currency units in Thailand prior to the decimalization of the Thai baht (one solot was equal in value to one sixteenth of a fueang, and a fueang was equal to one eighth of a baht). Thailand puts great effort into instilling beauty and high quality design work into its stamps. Almost all of the artwork used is taken from original oil and watercolour paintings by local artists, which gives Thai philately a rich artistic value. Through the decades, the design work of Thai stamps has taken on various styles, all of which showcase the colourful beauty of Thailand’s rich and varied culture. A few of the many picturesque Thai stamp issues over the last two decades include ones depicting samlor (three-wheeled vehicles), Muay Thai kick-boxing, local handicrafts, Thai mythological murals, and a set with detailed paintings of some of Thailand’s most famous historical temples and national heritage sites. As a stamp enthusiast, I was truly inspired when I discovered that Bangkok has its own institution for Thai stamp preservation—the Sam Sen Nai Philatelic Museum. Here, one can see more than 1,000 Thai stamp issues on display, from the first Solot issues through to the present day varieties.

Sam Sen Nai Philatelic Museum

2 Phahonyothin Rd, Saphan Kwai BTS station, Exit 1 | Tel: 02 271 2439 | Open: Wed-Sun, 8:30am-4:30pm | Admission is free

FOOD & DRINK |

Chef Thierry Renou at Park Society 76 | A PR I L 2017

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| FOOD & DRINK

AROY from the patio to the park

From March 31st to April 4th, PARK SOCIETY—on 29th floor of SO SOFITEL BANGKOK hotel—welcomes some champion star power to its kitchen in the early part of this month. Renowned French chef THIERRY RENOU, from the Michelin-starred Le Patio in Arcachon, France, will be wowing local gourmands with a series of exclusive dinners. Renou is known for leaving a trail of stars behind him, including the ones at Le Rivage in Gien and La Guérinière in Gujan-Mestras, so discerning diners will be in expert hands. The dinners are priced at B3,900++ (5-course), B4,500++ (7-course), and B5,100++ (9-course). For more information, or to make reservations, call 02 624 0000, or e-mail: h6835-fb3@sofitel.com.

michelin man-ia The buzz that Thailand would finally get its own MICHELIN GUIDE has been in the air for a while now, but late in February it was confirmed that by the end of this year it will indeed come to pass—helping cement the Kingdom’s status as a world-class food destination. The Thai government confirmed that the cabinet has approved a B143.5 million budget for the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) to work with Michelin in a five-year contract to publish the famous food guides. The hope is that Michelin accreditation will help promote foodie tourism in Thailand, but the TAT reserves the right to withdraw the contract if the venture doesn’t live up to expectations. Thailand will be the sixth country in Asia-Pacific to have its own Michelin Guide following China, Hong Kong, Japan, Singapore, and South Korea.

namaste saturdays Fans of Indian cuisine will be glad to hear that the SKYLINE RESTAURANT, at the AVANI RIVERSIDE BANGKOK HOTEL (257 Charoennakorn Rd) has introduced a new Saturday evening Indian buffet—satiating curry cravings and the need for naan. Chef KARAN RAWAT, who hails from Northern India, has created a contemporary Indian menu full of authentic flavours, with a focus on healthy, fresh ingredients. Vegetarian options include akhroti pumpkin kebab and dal makhani, but meat-centric favourites like Kashmiri lamb rogan and chicken tikka masala are also represented. The buffet is available from 6pm to 10:30pm, and is priced B1,200++ per person.

connoisseur’s corner Local artisanal food purveyors VIVIN recently opened a mini boutique outlet at EMQUARTIER (693-695 Sukhumvit Rd), in the GOURMET MARKET section on the ground floor. The company prides themselves on carrying a select range of gourmet products that are produced in Thailand—locally sourced, and 100 percent natural—as well as top-end food products from Europe and Asia, including Kampot pepper from Cambodia and imperial quality caviar from Italy. So the next time your hankering for some foie gras terrine, dried duck magret, cow and/or goat cheese, you’ll know where to look. Open daily 10am to 10pm. www.vivinmaison.com bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

A Taste of Thai Summer at Up & Above Restaurant

The Okura Prestige Bangkok | Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com Khao Chae, a traditional dish with a regal history, is the perfect way to beat the heat of the hot summer season. Eaten only during the summer months, the dish is comprised of rice steeped in iced jasmine-scented water, accompanied by a selection of side dishes, including shredded sweet pork, shredded sweet beef, fried fish with shrimp paste balls, and sweet peppers stuffed with pork and encased in an egg wrap. This seasonal Khao Chae menu is priced at B525++, and available daily until April 30th, from noon to 10:30pm.

Easter Celebrations by the River at Feast

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotels & Towers | 2 Charoen Krung Rd, Soi 30 Tel: 02 266 9214 | www.royalorchidsheraton.com Enjoy Easter Sunday Brunch on April 16th from 11:30am to 3pm, with a buffet featuring live-cooking stations and selection of local and international delicacies as well as seafood specialties and a lavish dessert buffet. Adults and kids alike will be enchanted by the many Easter-themed activities as well, including an egg painting workshop, a magic show, and a balloon animals display. The promotion is priced at B2,000 net, including free flow blended fresh fruit juices, or you can add B800 for additional free flow house wine, sparkling and beer.

Contemporary Italian Cuisine by Chef David Tamburini at La Scala The Sukhothai Bangkok | 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 | www.sukhothai.com Chef David Tamburini and his team have created a contemporary tasting menu, redefining regional tastes by celebrating both the past and the modern day delights of Italian dining. The tasting menu offers a selection of appetizers, pasta, mains and desserts. Highlights include Fiori Di Rapa (white and red radish “flowers”, colonnata lard, broad beans, and pecorino romano), and Maiale Amaro E Piccante (roasted organic pork tenderloin, white endive, and spicy horseradish). These menus are priced at B3,400++ per person, and served for lunch—from noon to 3pm—and dinner—from 6:30pm till 11:30pm.

Rustic Ravioli at Loop Italian Restaurant, Terrace and Bar

Pathunwan Princess Hotel | 444 MBK Center, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02-216-3700 | www.pprincess.com Loop Italian Restaurant’s Italian Chef de Cuisine Roberto Panariello has created a delicious blackboard special for the month of April. Come and try his renowned homemade ravioli—filled to bursting with a pear, blue cheese, walnuts and special sun-dried tomato blend—which delivers a unique sweet/savoury flavor sensation that will delight the most discerning diner. Available every day throughout the month, the ‘Roberto Special’ is priced at just B460 net per serving. This special promotion is available for both lunch and dinner seatings, from 11am to 10:30pm.

The Best of Earth and Sea Buffet at Brasserie Europa

Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok | 991/9 Rama I Rd. Tel: 02 162 9000 | www.kempinski.com/bangkok This month the Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok is set to reveal its tasty new ‘Earth and Sea’ dinner buffet concept, available daily from 6:30pm to 10:30pm. The succulent evening buffet includes an amazing array of gourmet treats, including fresh seafood on ice, sushi and sashimi, as well as a varied selection of Asian and European favourites. This new concept buffet dinner, with à la carte main dish options that include quality meat and fish dishes, is priced at just B1,800++ per adult, and B900++ per child (aged 6 to 12 years).

Buffet Lunch Special Deal at Food Exchange

Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 | 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Tel: 02 009 4999 | www.novotelbangkoksukhumvit20.com The Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 offers buffet lunch daily—from noon to 2:30pm— throughout the month of April, with a variety of favourite local and international selections. Choose from freshly rolled sushi, organic salad, Thai papaya salad, soups, fresh seafood on ice, and Food Exchange’s very own noodle station. The weekend buffet lunch also adds extra options, including grilled steak, chicken, or rack of lamb (all made to order). Weekdays the lunch buffet is priced at B450 net per person, and weekends it is priced at B599 net person (both prices include tea and coffee).

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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK

The House on Sathorn Award-winning restaurant takes diners on a sensory journey

night dining at The House on Sathorn really does feel like an experience, a memorable event that cannot be replicated in Bangkok. The entrance from Sathorn Road—past a fountain to an 1889 colonial mansion lit up for all in the city to gawk at—merely whets the appetite. After serving as the Russian Embassy, the property, a registered building under the Archaeological Act, was purchased by W Bangkok and spent three years being renovated. The result is stunning, and it is worthwhile to walk around and take it all in. The Dining Room, which recently placed 36th on the prestigious Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017 list, is a riot of canary yellow with columns, tapestries, a long wooden bar— behind which the chefs work—and kaffir lime green shutters. There is also a separate bar, and a huge courtyard in the back that serves lunch and high tea. Chef Fatih Tutak is Turkish native, with an extensive background. His culinary journeys have taken him around the world, picking up different bangkok101.com

influences along the way. These journeys are available in his monthly tasting menus (B3,800), each created to evoke Fatih’s specific sensory memories—which the chef, or expert wait staff, can explain in full detail. Two amuse bouches started the meal, offering an enduring impression. First, a Hokkaido clam, served on the half-shell with blood orange foam, began with a fresh citrus zest but finished with umami, an almost MSG-like burst. Then came a duck egg yolk, uni (sea urchin), and black winter truffle chantilly topped with shaved black truffle and served in an egg shell, nesting in a trunk of wood. The journey stayed in Japan for the Tsukiji Market: tai-madai (sea bream) served with umeboshi (salted plum) and sudachi (sour citrus), topped with caviar. During his time in the country, Chef Fatih learned to wrap the sashimi in a special leaf and salt it, leaving it for seven hours to bring out the flavours. The result is subtle and slightly bitter. The adventure can also overwhelm the tongue with velvety richness, as happens with cauliflower

that’s been lovingly coated with butter for 45 minutes, paired with macadamia nuts and cheese fondue and black truffle. But for all his panache in the kitchen, my greatest memory is probably the chef’s as well—the comfort food of his mother. A Turkish dumpling called manti is served with an intense tomato paste (made from three kinds of the fruit), eggplant, and kaymak (a dairy product similar to clotted cream), leaving a pleasing sour tanginess to envelop the mouth. From the cocktail menu the aged Negroni (B420) is thick and herbal, redolent of star anise, while the Diva (B420) is a refreshing mix of Belvedere vodka, Patron citronge, coconut water, a rose petal, jasmine syrup, and egg white. by Robin Banks

The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn 106 Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.whotelbangkok.com/en/ thehouseonsathorn

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FOOD & DRINK | special report

And the Winner is…

Bangkok’s own Gaggan restaurant claims the No.1 spot yet again at the 2017 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards By Bruce Scott

hen the No.2 spot was announced on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017—sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna—a cheer of triumph erupted from the audience. Not only was the crowd cheering for Singapore’s André restaurant, the runner-up recipient, they were also anticipating the announcement that a certain restaurant, by process of elimination, had obviously clenched the top spot… none other than Bangkok’s own Gaggan! For Chef Gaggan Anand it was his third consecutive 1st place finish, and as he and his business partners made their way up to the stage—to the strains of the Guns’n’Roses version of Live and Let Die—the joy on his face was plain for all to see. “I’m humbled,” he said, “and I wish I could break this award into 50 pieces and share it with all the chefs in this room. This is not for me, this is

80 | A PR I L 2017

for Asia!” He also acknowledged his dedicated staff, adding: “All of the 67 people in the restaurant are the best team that I’ve ever worked with.” The awards ceremony was held—for the second year in a row—at the W Bangkok Hotel, and invited guests included a mix of industry VIPs, international media, and some of the region’s most celebrated chefs. This year, the number of Bangkokbased restaurants on the list totalled nine, a notable increase from last year (interestingly China, Japan, and

Singapore also secured nine spots on the prestigious list). Of the Bangkok bunch, David Thompson’s Nahm took the #5 spot (up from #8 last year). Closing in on the top ten, the modern German restaurant Sühring, a new entry this year, took the #13 spot, while Bo.lan claimed the #19 spot (after not appearing on the list last year). Issaya Siamese Club, helmed by superstar Chef Ian Kittichai, came in at #21, while Tim Butler’s Eat Me clocked in at #31. Other newcomers amongst the BKK

ABOUT THE ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS LIST The list is created by tallying the votes of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, a group of over 300 influential leaders from the restaurant industry across Asia, each selected for their expert opinion of Asia’s dining scene. The main sponsors of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants are S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, the leading natural still and sparkling mineral waters of the fine dining world.

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special report | FOOD & DRINK

The big winners of Bangkok

May Chow (left)

Team Gaggan

Team Locavore

entries this year included The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn (#36), where Turkish Chef Fatih Tutak’s multicuisine creations continue to turn heads, Chef Thitid Tassanakajohn’s modern Thai cuisine resto Le Du (#37), and L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Bangkok’s branch of the French chef’s worldwide chain (#40). Aside from the top 50 spots on the list there were also several individual awards being handed out, including Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017 which was claimed by Chef-restaurateur May Chow of Little Bao (Hong Kong and Bangkok).

Meanwhile, the Chefs’ Choice Award was given to Dave Pynt from Burnt Ends (Singapore), the Highest Climber Award was earned by Locavore, Bali’s best sustainably sourced local ingredient restaurant, and celebrated Italian chef Umberto Bombana, of 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana (Hong Kong), walked away with this year’s Diners Club Lifetime Achievement Award. “Each year the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list welcomes a host of new entries and 2017 is no exception,” remarked William Drew, Group Editor of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. “In its 5th year, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants

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is proud to showcase the region’s diverse cuisines, introduce gourmets to innovative dining concepts, and celebrate Asia’s emerging talent”. Immediately following the awards, at the lavish after party, The House on Sathorn’s outdoor courtyard was the scene for plenty of hand-shaking and back-slapping. There was lots to celebrate, and the free-flow festivities continued until almost midnight. Once the witching hour had struck, the after-party moved to Gaggan’s own restaurant where the entire side street the restaurant is located on had been taken over by an army of raucous revellers. It was a no-holds-barred event, with enough food, drink and music to keep everyone going until the wee hours. It will no doubt be remembered by those who attended as the most “off the hook” foodie event of the year. Amazingly, despite all this success, Gaggan has made no secret about his plans to close his flagship restaurant in 2020. But that doesn’t mean he’ll be fading into obscurity. He will continue to invest in new restaurants, and provide financial backing for new and upcoming talented chefs—he’s one of the backers behind the wildly successful Sühring, and his Bangkokbased Meatlicious restaurant is also doing exceedingly well. In the coming months and years he will put his name and money behind three young Gaggan alumni, each of whom will open a restaurant within a stone’s throw of Gaggan HQ.

THE BIG WINNERS The top 10 entries at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards 2017 are as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Gaggan (Bangkok) Andre (Singapore) Amber (Hong Kong) 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana (Hong Kong) Nahm (Bangkok) Narisawa (Tokyo) Nihonryori RyuGin (Tokyo) Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet (Shanghai) Odette (Singapore) Burnt Ends (Singapore)

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FOOD & DRINK | review

Aldo’s Bistro Welcome to the encore

fter falling into mediocrity with the mid-oughties departure of its original designer and kitchen Meister, French restaurant Aldo’s Bistro has risen from the ashes and is again making waves with founding chef Hervé Frerard back in charge at the Ascott Sathorn’s 7th floor venue. Chef Hervé is both the classic French bistro’s founder, and the agent of its rebirth—having been called back into service after a 9-year hiatus. Now back at the helm and just a few months into a complete makeover, he has created a refined and welcoming dining atmosphere and a menu to match. With a collection of intriguing artworks by namesake painter, Argentine-born Aldo Luongo setting the room’s aesthetic tone, the 82 | A PR I L 2017

ambience here is one of a rich uncle’s library that has been given a bit of a modern tweak—a theme which is echoed in the creator’s approach to kitchen-craft. From the house’s revolving amuse-bouche selection (dinner only, complimentary), we drew a sea-dairy pairing of French-imported Yuzu double cream with hints of Chervil and the tart Japanese citrus fruit. Presented as a pedestal of rich dairy goodness, the cream’s load-bearing texture easily buttresses a hefty flake of smoked haddock and premium Oscietra caviar. A dish one can easily fall in “l’œuf” with is the Organic egg with smoked cod espuma (B850), which is slow-cooked at precisely 63°C, and served with butternut squash

purée, salmon roe and seasoned with Szechuan pepper, making this brunch-y, smoothly textured dish a dinnertime must. Sourced from the clear, chilly waters off France’s Brittany coast, the Dover sole with shallot and fresh dill (B2,100) boasts a mild flavour and firm, flaky texture which is ideally suited for the butter-searing meunièrestyle preparation, and is served with a portion of exquisitely tender imported baby spinach. For this dish, sommelier Jaruwan Kaset paired a 2013 Hubert Brochard Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc— one of over 300 labels from the house’s extensive wine bar. Those with a penchant for poultry will most certainly appreciate the Roast guinea fowl (B1,650), a timeless staple of French cuisine. Sourced from a generations-old supplier in Auvergne, it’s served as de-boned breast and thigh portion, with savoury, oven-crisped skin. The plating is invitingly busy with a velvet-smooth mash of French ratte potato with black truffle jus, and an eclectic mingle of diversely-sourced produce, including baby zucchini and beetroot from Vietnam, and fresh figs from a boutique grower in Chiang Rai. A dessert of Hazelnut Soufflé (B350) dazzles the olfactory sense with a luxuriant bouquet of top-end Sicilian hazelnuts, served with a soul-mate accompaniment of Vanilla Tahiti ice cream, by premium house brand Below Eleven, in which Chef Hervé is a founding partner. Meticulously sourced, high quality ingredients? Oui. Obsessively unique and supremely satisfying French cooking sans pretentiousness? Oui. A visit in order? Absolument! by Chris Michael

Aldo’s Bistro

7/F, Ascott Sathorn, 187 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 676 6982 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.aldosbistro.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Nowhere BKK Fusion from nowhere is now here

ombining elements of different cuisines into a single dish is not an easy task. Not only is it difficult to find flavour palettes that complement and enhance each other, but mastering the right balance can be equally as challenging. One restaurant that has managed to perfect the marriage of different cuisines is Nowhere BKK, a newly opened venue on top of the THA City Loft Hotel (only a short walk from Ekkamai BTS station). It’s the latest venture of Virunpath ‘Prae’ Kasemsri Na Ayudhaya, a 30-year-old restaurateur and co-owner of the casual Thai eatery Kram Café & Thai Kitchen on Sukhumvit Soi 39. Inspired by the positive feedback of her customers, Prae came up with her “Eurasian” concept of infusing European dishes with Asian (and other international) flavours and ingredients. One such example, the Moo-Ping Pate (B260), is a delicious, and smoothly blended version of Thai grilled pork, served with toasted English muffins and pickled vegetables. The restaurant’s slogan, “You ain’t going nowhere, but you are now here”, plays on the different bangkok101.com

separation of syllables of its name. This dual perspective is equally reflected in the interior of the eatery, where several staircases criss-cross the room and, though leading nowhere, they are utilised as tables, shelves, and part of the bar. The minimalistic, raw-style interior is the work of the Stu/d/o Team, the architecture firm behind the Naiipa Art Complex in Phra Khanong. The design includes a dozen wooden tables circling the large bar and an outdoor terrace with a 180-degree view, as well as several green highlights, including an entire wall covered with plants (testament to the design team’s focus on sustainability). Just as thoughtful as the interior is the presentation of the Heirloom baby carrot salad (B310), in which the roasted vegetables are artfully plated with grilled orange slices, bread crisps, and dollops of garlic mayonnaise. Sprinkled with almonds and thyme, the dish is seasoned with a lemon paprika sauce—bearing subtle hints of Tom Yum flavour. Meanwhile, the Watermelon salad (B210) is a dish for more acquired taste buds. Here, the sweetness of

the red fruit is balanced with a sumac vinaigrette, spinach, and basil, and topped with parmesan shaves as well as bonito flakes (wafer-thin, dried fish). This daring starter was followed by a much more comforting plate of Shrimp and chorizo linguine (B265). And while I love that combination on the plate, it was the accompanying signature cocktail—Julep from Nowhere (B320)—that received most of the attention. This fresh, and fruity concoction, featuring chorizo-infused bourbon, was specifically created to be paired with the spicy pasta. A highly recommended option for non-alcoholic drinks is the 1001 Arabian Night (B135) mocktail. The iced Moroccan mint tea is topped with a scoop of sweet pear and ginger sorbet, which, by slowly melting, gradually adds sweetness to the drink. by Julia Offenberger

Nowhere BKK

6F, THA City Loft Hotel, Ekkamai Soi 6 Tel: 094 516 6663 Open: Tue-Thu, Sun, 5pm-11pm, Fri-Sat, 5pm-midnight www.nowherebkk.com A PR I L 2017 | 83

FOOD & DRINK | review

Nippon Kai

Finding Fusion in Siam Paragon’s Gourmet Market

ince when did “fusion” become such a dirty word for chefs? Just try pitching someone’s dish as fusion and you’ll likely get the chef foaming at the mouth with a smattering of expletives. However, not only is Nippon Kai—located in the Gourmet Market at Siam Paragon— daring to drop the “F” bomb all over their menu boards, their sushi bar stands in the middle of a grocery store. It’s a bizarre experience at first, but once you settle in, the vibe is infectious. Along the U-shaped counter are a mix of gentlemen, tourists, and hipsters, all enjoying chilled mugs of Asashi, eating sushi, and taking photos. On the other side of the counter is Nippon Kai’s fresh Japanese seafood service area. There’s no banquette seating, or complimentary edamame here. Instead you’re almost rubbing elbows with your neighbour and there are no cold refresher towels in sight (God forbid). But seeing first-hand the freshness of your seafood, along with such extreme proximity to the chefs, makes all that other stuff seem trivial.

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Chef Jakkapan Thongman, the mastermind behind the ‘Sushi Fusion’ menu, is young, bright, and bubbling with enthusiasm. He relishes in the details of his original creations, most of which use paste and sauces made from scratch, like the incredible homemade ume (Japanese plum) paste which the chef cooks down with sake as part of his best-selling ‘Dynamite’ sushi. We started with the Tokujoe sashimi (B1,200), a mini mountain of the usual suspects—salmon, hamachi, maguro etc.—which all tasted just as one would expect, yet it was the scallops that felt outrageously fresh and mildly sweet, albeit the truffle sauce threatened to overpower the delicateness. Meanwhile, the Japanese clam (B500), a revered delicacy known as Akagai, came out looking like an elaborate science project and tasted just as alien. With the texture of a chewy mussel it delivers a fishy, metallic taste which is not for the faint hearted (but worthy of a one-off experience). To heighten the experience to our already challenged palates, Chef

Jakkapan presented us with a beautiful piece of sushi topped with kiwi fruit, tabiko and torched cheese (B80). I dreaded trying this sushi abomination, but was floored by how savoury and well married it was. We finally met our match with the chef’s pièce de résistance Sushi Fusion (B380). It’s an artful construction of unagi (eel), torched toro salmon, foie gras, engawa (fish fin), and avocado, topped with salmon skin, sea urchin, salmon roe, and a sauce of red wine, foie gras, tsukudani (seaweed), and ume paste. Most foodies would laugh at such a monstrosity but somehow, in some way, it actually worked. As you bite down on each element, the flavour hits you singularly then melds together all at once like a mini explosion or, more accurately, like “dynamite”. by Samantha Proyrungtong

Nippon Kai Sushi Counter GF, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 610 7622 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/nipponkaigroup

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FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Jeriko Van der Wolf

Farm-to-table fare with a Michelin star touch

unday, 6pm, at the beginning of the month, and there is a closeto-the-end-of-the-weekend lull even by Bangkok standards. Yet, as you round one of the many twists and turns along Soi Phrom Chit (off Sukhumvit Soi 39) lo and behold there sits Cocotte Farm Roast & Winery— just what the food doctor ordered! Even at this early hour the buzz of happy dining is in the air and the tempo rises as joyful diners feast on tomahawk steaks and rotisserie

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chicken. For those not familiar with Cocotte, “yes”, it is absolutely fabulous and “yes”, you are missing out. For someone in his early 20s, Executive Chef and Partner Jeriko Van der Wolf comes from good stock—Michelin star restaurant stock that is. Grand as that may be, what is more impressive is how this French gourmand has created dishes that are not in the style of a Michelin restaurant, instead putting comfort food at the heart of his menu.

“It’s difficult to do a tasty dish in a fancy way, and for the sake of flavour you sometimes have to present simplicity,” he says. “When you create a dish, 50 percent is visual but you have to be careful as the aesthetic can take over the taste and you lose flavour. When I first created the restaurant’s salmon and chorizo dish, I wanted to barbeque the ingredients, which means you cannot cut them into neat cubes. The dish kind of looks a bit messy, but you cannot compare bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

the taste. I had to challenge myself and choose to change the way I cook. If I make a new dish, and it takes too long, then I do it again and simplify it. However, behind the simplicity there is sophistication too.” The BBQ-baked truffle camembert, with truffle vinaigrette salad and char-grilled bread, is a head-over-heels love affair for foodies. Royal Project vegetables with truffle gouda cheese and roasted corn mousse—another appetizer—is a dish that brims with uplifting new flavours, while the side of truffle mashed potato is quite simply a sublime experience. “Truffle is a signature ingredient mainly because Thais love it and also because I grew up in Perigord, the home of the truffle in Southwest France,” Chef Jeriko explains. “I also love to cook with my special ingredient, a charcoal Kamado Joe BBQ. You keep it closed and it smokes the food. It’s incredible!” The locally sourced free-range chicken is perfectly prepared with a special marinade before being turned to crispy-skinned perfection on the rotisserie—tender and moist. Meanwhile the cauliflower cheese gratin and asparagus are satisfyingly moreish. In this restaurant side dishes bangkok101.com

are not merely main course support acts, but shine in their own right and are presented beautifully in little saucepans. The Stockyard Wagyu rump steak is as soft as expected, but with a wonderfully barbequed edge. Whilst fusion seems far too “fussy” for Cocotte, the paella-style risotto with Hokkaido scallops is an outright standout—a stand-up-andtake-a-Facebook-photo dish that is better than paella and actually better than risotto too. The sum here is definitely greater than the parts. Chef Jeriko cooks up dishes that are made with love, organic ingredients, a sense of fun, and some downright sophisticated understanding of what Bangkok diners want. The use of sous vide and complex techniques demonstrates the real cooking skill behind a menu that shouts “flavour, flavour, flavour”. The chicken, for example, spends six hours steeped in a special marinade before being dried and cooked, while the restaurant’s separate delicatessen open kitchen serves up the best Iberico ham. “The farm-to-table concept is popular, and we source locally where we can, but we are not doing ‘clean food’,” he points out. “When you come to Cocotte we are not here to make

you skinny, we are here to make you happy; to have a great time and relax in a more European style with good food and drink. Part of our philosophy is to create dishes that ultimately sell, that people want to eat, and to create an enjoyable experience as well as a great working environment for our team.” Certainly, a 70 percent dark chocolate lava cake is not exactly a dieter’s choice, and yet Chef Jeriko’s mischievous insistence that it was the best he’d ever tried (a tribute to his former pastry chef) and it would be a shame to miss it, led to my sweet indulgence, with an exquisite banoffee pie chaser. Cocotte can be a blow-out extravaganza, with some extravagant steaks and wines on the menu, however it is equally appealing as a casual drop-in spot (although you may want to book ahead) where you can chow down with good friends over a glass or two of vino. With an open kitchen, chrome stools, higher-thanhigh-ceilings and funky design details, the vibe is akin to a busy, hip Spanish bistro you might find in Madrid or Barcelona, with seriously excellent food prepared by a chef who is serious about being a fun-time-foodie. interview by Nadia Willan M A RCH 2017 | 87

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

Joom Mango Sticky Rice P ad Thai and Tom Yum Koong are maybe the two most famous dishes in the Thai food pantheon, but when it comes to sweet things, there is nothing that compares to the queen of desserts: mango sticky rice. Summer is the season for mango and April is the time, specifically, for ripened yellow sweet mangoes. This hottest month of the year might come close to killing us, but I prefer to think of it as the month that can cure us. In short, it’s the month of the greatest mango. Of course, we can eat mango all year round now, but in my experience, mango vendors say that April is the month for the ripest, most delicious examples of this iconic tropical fruit. In Bangkok, we have several places for good mango sticky rice, but lately I have found myself going back to the same place over and over. It’s a street vendor named Joom, and she sets up her stall at the corner of Soi Saladaeng on Silom Road. I was suspicious about the place at first, because its location is in the middle of a hugely popular tourist area. And I don’t want to be fooled

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 88 | A PR I L 2017

by a business attached to tourism. However, one day I decided to give it a try. Not once but twice, and then a third time, and now I’ve lost count! Khun Joom’s mangoes have a genuine taste and touch because she selects them from the local mango vendors she knows, usually very early in the morning. You can find her open for business just after the dinner hour, continuing on until after the midnight hour. I normally eat at the blue tables on the edge of the street. You don’t need to pick out the mango yourself because she will always choose the best one for you. I like watching her sharp knife move across the mango peels, as if she were revealing a secret within. This little process requires a perfect touch, and Joom holds the beautiful yellow fruit firmly—always being careful not to press too hard in order not to bruise the mango’s tender flesh. Her mangoes never disappoint me. Instead, their nectar’s sweetness lifts me up. And she will always be honest with you if her mangoes that day are not their usual sweetness. In short, this is simple, honest, delicious food. Her sticky rice, the other half of this famous Thai dessert combo, is slightly softer than al dente, which I prefer over the wet variety that

is all-too-common. She uses real coconut milk, and cooks the aromatic concoction to a perfectly creamy texture. It’s so delicious I want to drink it separately! And unlike many places, she doesn’t use flour to make the coconut milk thicken. She even garnishes the dish with a sprinkle of crispy, crunchy yellow lentils. I am floored by the quality of it all! After eating at her stall, I spoil myself each time by buying an extra one or two to take home. I’d advise you do the same if you, like me, want to be a little bit spoiled.

Address: Joom Mango Sticky Rice is at the corner of Soi Saladaeng and Silom Road. She can be found there daily, from 8pm until 1am. bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE

3F, Conrad Bangkok 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com

GREEK

FRENCH Bai Yun

Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com

Liu

A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes.

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Chez Pape

The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be disappointed. 2/7, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 255 2492 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 5pm-11pm www.chezpape.com

Le Boeuf

The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: high-quality steak liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core. GF, Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair 60 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 672 12 30

Avra

Avra Greek Restaurant

Rising from the mid-Sukhumvit culinary clutter like a Parthenon of Hellenic delights, this charming eatery offers an impressively expansive menu that includes all the perennial favourites prepared with thoughtful touches. GF, Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit 1 Soi Daengudom, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open: Tue-Fri, noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm,

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listings | FOOD & DRINK Sat-Sun, noon-11pm, Mon, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 258 2877 www.avrabkk.com

INTERNATIONAL

Eat Me

Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town. Trust us! Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

7F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Park Society

Bunker

Classically trained in French cuisine, and committed to the Slow Food movement, Chef Arnie—a new devotee of Thai cuisine—is a one-man melting pot. Take cover from ho-hum cuisine. 118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com

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Excite both your taste buds and eyes with a cutting-edge, elegant dinner overlooking Lumpini Park and the amazing skyline of Bangkok. Perfect for a romantic evening or a friendly get-together. SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: Kitchen, 6pm-10:30pm, www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Red Oven

Styled as a World Food Market, this 7th-floor all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. On weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet.

Up & Above

This 24th floor restaurant in the five star Okura Prestige Bangkok hotel boasts a brunch to rival all others—delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: noon-10:30pm Sunday Brunch: noon-3pm www.okurabangkok.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings

INDIAN

Bawarchi

The kind of curries you’ve been missing— rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious. Check out any one of Bawarchi’s Bangkok four locations. 20/11, Sukhumvit Soi 4, Tel: 02 656 7357 BF, Intercontinental Chidlom 973 Ploenchit Rd, Tel: 02 656 0101-3 1F, Ambassador Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 253 2394 India-Thai Chamber of Commerce Building, Sathorn Soi 1, Tel: 02 677 6249 www.bawarchiindian.com

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Gaggan

A must-visit for foodies, this resto has been voted number one for three consecutive years—2015 to 2017—on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Try one of the recommended tasting menus to experience the breadth of progressive, molecular Indian cuisine. 68/1 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 652 1700 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.eatatgaggan.com

Il Fumo

Combining high-grade beef and traditional wood-charcoal grill cooking methods, the emphasis is on delicious smoke-flavoured Italian fare. Go for the charcoal, stay for a cocktail. 1098/2 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 286 8833 Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am (kitchen 11:30pm) www.ilfumo.co

JAPANESE

ITALIAN Don Giovanni

The menu is full of home-style recipes, the concept rarely straying from traditional Italian. Along with neoclassical décor, the culinary approach lends this restaurant a decorous air befitting its operatic name. Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd. Tel: 02 541 1234 Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, 8pm-10:30pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Shintori

If you’re looking for a dinner that will impress on all fronts, the combination here of a thrilling setting and equally exciting food, is hard to beat.

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listings | FOOD & DRINK 18F, Zen World@Central World Tel: 02 100 9000 Open daily: 5:30pm-11:30pm www.shintoribangkok.com

Yuutaro

Sushi and sashimi purists take note, a staggering 90 percent of the seafood is selected from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. 5F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloenchit Rd Tel: 02 160 5880-1 Open daily: 11am-10.30pm www.yuutaro.com

its original roots. Reliability and customer satisfaction has made it one of the best seafood restaurants in town. 4F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 610 9244 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.laemcharoenseafood.com

THAI

MEXICAN

Backyard by Baan

Backyard By Baan

The Mexican

It’s worth the journey down Sukhumvit Soi 2 if you’re looking to find some of Bangkok’s most authentic Mexican food and drinks. The interior is also an eyepopping delight, with a huge mural of the Aztec Goddess Mictlantecuhtli (the First Lady of the Dead) dominating the room. Try their Jalapeno Tequila. 18, Rajah Complex Sukhumvit Soi 2 Tel: 094 330 0390 Open daily: 11am-midnight www.themexicanbkk.com

SEAFOOD Crab and Claw

Ensconced on an upper curve of the EmQuartier mall, this popular restaurant features “New England-style” lobster, clams, crabs and plenty more. 7F, Helix Bldg, EmQuartier Tel: 096 197 5769 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/crabandclaw

Laem Charoen Seafood

Offering a wide range of other seafood delicacies—all straight from the sea—this seafood restaurant has been growing in stature while staying true to bangkok101.com

Like Baan, this place serves authentic Thai comfort food and local ingredients, albeit with a few contemporary twists. Variety of drinks are offered as well including wine, craft beer, and Thai cocktails. GF, Jas Urban Mall Sri Nakarin Soi 46/1 Tel: 02 386 7339 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm facebook.com/backyardbybaan

Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant (and cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Erawan Tea Room

Known for its amazing high tea, this place also serves traditional Thai cuisine in a nostalgic setting that overlooks the consistently crowded Erawan Shrine. Packaged products and a wide selection of teas from India, China, Sri Lanka, and Thailand are also available. 2F, Erawan Bangkok Mall 494 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 6250 Open daily: 10am-10pm, Afternoon Tea: 2:30pm-6pm www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com A PR I L 2017 | 93

FOOD & DRINK | listings

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients. The Rose Hotel 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Steve Café and Cuisine

Given the number of mass-produced seafood gardens and tourist coffee shops exploiting the romance of the Chao Phraya river, what’s remarkable about this restaurant is that they come pretty close to authentic homemade. 68 Sri Ayuthaya Rd. Tel: 02 281 0915, 02 280 2989 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.stevecafeandcuisine.com

CAFÉ

1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex 57 Wireless Rd, Tel: 02 108 2200 www.deandeluca.com/thailand

Kiosk Café

Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boite is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cake-and-chat, or a hot coffee. 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 259 4089 Open: Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com

D’Ark

Suan Bua

Located in the busy area of Bangkok, this athai restaurant offers comfortable and relaxing atmosphere with a focus on natural and organic ingredients and encompasses traditional dishes from all over Thailand. LLF, Centara Grand, Ladprao 1695 Phahonyothin Rd. Tel: 02 541 1234 ext. 4068 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm; 6pm-10:30pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com

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The stylish interior and furnishings embrace a coffee-coloured palette, offset by abstract artwork and tasteful lighting. The coffee machines are manned by world champion baristas and roasters, and the kitchen whips up some amazing Mediterranean-inspired fare (3 locations). EmQuartier, Tel: 02 003 6013 Piman 49, Tel: 02 662 7900 Central Festival EastVille www.darkoffee.com

Not Just Another Cup

Dean & Deluca

Not Just Another Cup

This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients. GF, MahaNakhon Cube, Tel: 02 023 1616 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, The Waterfall Quartier, Tel: 02 261 0464

This cozy cafe, suitable for early birds, serves a variety of brunch menus, while the drink menu covers everything from coffee to cold-pressed juices and infused water. 75/1, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 635 3464 Open daily: 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup

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CUISINE ART Water: Plenty, Prosperity, and Play Ruen Urai’s Thai gourmet journey explores the natural elements that have signiﬁcant meanings in Thailand. Water is abundant all over the country and plays many roles—as a source of food, a mode of transportation, and in ceremonies and festivals such as Songkran. Fish also have folkloric connotations, and Thais believe that a carp mobile made from plaited palm leaves is a symbol of wealth, fertility and productivity. It is often hung above a baby’s cradle to encourage luck and abundance. Enjoy a crispy-fried pomfret with garlic and pepper, one of rich resources from the Gulf of Siam, and experience ﬁne Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Open from noon to 11 p.m.

Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

A LAWN BEING SPRINKLED: inspired by the painting by David Hockney

WEEPING WOMAN: inspired by the painting by Pablo Picasso

AUTOMAT: inspired by the painting by Edward Hopper

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE artistic inspiration

With award-winning mixmaster SUPAWIT ‘PALM’ MUTTARATTANA now at the helm, VESPER (10/15 Soi Convent Rd) not only has a talented new group bar manager, but also three additions to their creative cocktail menu ‘The Art Book’, which features a number of unique, art-inspired alcoholic concoctions. Palm, the former Brand Ambassador for Diageo Reserve Thailand, has interpreted three of his personal favourite paintings—see opposite page—and turned them into a trio of delicious cocktails (vodka-, gin-, and bourbon-based, respectively), proving his skills and continuing the bar’s creative approach to imbibing. www.vesperbar.co

raising the bar On April 23rd THE BAR AWARDS—Asia’s most influential bar and beverage awarding body—will be in town for an awards party celebration honouring Bangkok’s best drink establishments and personalities. Launched in Singapore in 2014, these awards have grown to become Asia’s most respected accolades acknowledging the bar and beverage industry’s best. Winners will be spread out amongst a total of 12 award categories, including: Best Cocktail Bar; Bartender of the Year; Best New Cocktail Bar; Best Hotel Bar; Best Hospitality Team; Best Beer Bar; and Best Bar Food. In the days leading up to the awards show, there will also be a line-up of international guest bartenders shaking it up at the best cocktail bars across town. www.thebarawards.com

chugging in chinatown Chinatown just got itself a new hipster craft beer joint with the opening of PIJIU BAR (16 Soi Rammaitree-Nana), a tiny but welcoming hole in the wall with a selection of brews curated by the good folks at BEERVANA. The emphasis here is on beer—the word pijiu is Chinese for “beer”— and imbibers can expect bottle brands from such notable exporters as Tuatara Brewery in New Zealand, as well as Stone and Anderson Valley microbreweries from the USA. There are also five taps to choose from, for some “craft draft”, but if you really want to go full immersion ask for a cold Tsingtao (from China) fresh out of the beer fridge. www.facebook.com/pijiubar

it’s the sh*t! BLACK IVORY is the most expensive coffee in the world, and with good reason. The coffee beans used are “naturally refined” by rescued elephants—part of the GOLDEN TRIANGLE ASIAN ELEPHANT FOUNDATION in Chiang Saen—which means they are ingested by these mighty mammals and then released out the back end much later. Earlier this year, the good folks at MIKKELLER (26, Ekkamai Soi 10, Lane 2) released BLACK IVORY COFFEE STOUT, with the special purpose of helping raise awareness of elephant abuse and mistreatment. Available by the bottle—or on tap at the bar (B300 a glass)—this dark brown beverage is anything but “crappy”, with fabulous coffee flavour infused throughout. And at 8.3 percent alcohol by volume it packs a pachyderm-sized punch. www.mikkellerbangkok.com

bangkok101.com

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NIGHTLIFE | review

Goldencoins Taproom & 3 Bears Craft Brewery Two new bars help to build the momentum behind Thai craft beer, but in decidedly distinct styles By Craig Sauers

On an alfresco patio, a few stools face a white wall with six silver taps. Out of these six, which are pretty much within arm’s reach, Pieak says he’ll serve four core beers at all times: a well-balanced pale ale, a hoppy amber ale, his chestnut-laced Happy Stout, and an easydrinking IPA he beefs up with a bevy of hops, including Simcoe and Centennial. The other taps will rotate, showcasing any of the 20-plus styles he’s playing around with—from a smooth, sweet cream ale that’s redolent of vanilla, to a caramel toffee stout, and what should be a throat-tickling triple IPA that goes through secondary fermentation with oak chips. Each beer comes in between B150 and B180, dropping to B100 for the 5pm to 7pm happy hours.

GOLDENCOINS GOES FOR BROKE Fans of defunct craft beer bar Let the Boy Die may have been relieved to find a familiar face manning taps in Ekkamai. Pipattanaphon ‘Pieak’ Pumpo, a leading figure among Bangkok’s legion of rebel brewers and co-founder of the aforementioned Chinatown bar, has returned with a new project, Goldencoins. And while the former architect’s taproom doesn’t stray from the script, it does send a more personal message—Goldencoins is his bar, his beer, and his brand. Like Let the Boy Die, this new venture is low-lit and intimate. Wood and brick loom large in the interiors, and chalkboard menus list the kitchen’s comfort food, including pork and beef ribs from the Meat & Bones team (B360/B550), fish sauce-battered chicken wings (B180), and a platter of different Thai sausages (B180). The focus, likewise, is on craft beer and conversation. Long tables encourage chatter, and you actually have to talk to the bartenders to get your beer. But unlike the previous bar, which opened its taps to any brewer trying to catch a break, Goldencoins is Pieak’s pet project, a bar featuring his brews only. 98 | A PR I L 2017

The beer is so affordable it might raise eyebrows, but it remains affordable for a couple of reasons. “I don’t care about legal or illegal, everybody should be able to drink good beer,” Pieak says, referring to the draconian laws that have turned homebrewing into a shadow operation in Thailand, as well as his unabashed passion for craft beer. “It shouldn’t be expensive, either,” he adds. To keep prices down, he and his partner have set up a 1,500-litre fermenter in Ho Chi Minh City. Since bangkok101.com

review | NIGHTLIFE Vietnam is a member of ASEAN, and small-batch brewing is legal there, Pieak can legally import his beers back into Thailand without incurring the sky-high tariffs levied on European and American alcohol. Many accomplished Thai homebrewers have turned to this tack in recent months, and while it’s not an ideal arrangement, it does give brewers like Pieak—who started from scratch—the liberty to challenge the Thai beer market’s monopoly on styles and flavours. The Goldencoins taproom might feel like a work in progress, but it’s safe to say Pieak is in the right place. “I want to brew beer,” he says. “That’s my job. It’s what I want to do.”

imported into Thailand—a perfectly legal operation. The team says the Goldilocks Blonde Ale is the most popular, and it’s easy to see why. The beer goes down smooth and has pleasant tropical undertones that play to the local palate. Those who prefer more potent brews, however, should turn to the Hunter’s IPA. Liberal amounts of Cascade hops give it a mildly bitter profile and beautiful citrus aroma. And do try the Gorilla Stout, a full-bodied dark beer with roasted coffee and bittersweet chocolate notes. It’s the best of the bunch. While those brews sound relatively benign, the team does take some risks. The Summer Snow Champagne Ale is a rare style for a local brewer to attempt. It’s a Berliner Weisse, a sour white ale that is something of an acquired

3 BEARS IS JUST RIGHT

taste (you either love sour beers or hate them, for the most part). In the hotter months, the beer can be quite refreshing, and it’s worth a taste, if nothing else, especially during happy hours from 4pm to 7pm each day, when beer prices drop from B240 to B190 (there are nightly deals, too, including a weekly beer buffet). The food menu features brewpub favourites, like piquant tempura-fried calamari (B260) and fried chicken wings (B260), as well as fancier offerings, including spaghetti vongole (B280), ox shank Bolognese (B320), and char-grilled New Zealand lamb (B780)—the latter options the brainchild of the chef-partner, of course. Between the unique craft beer, the bistro-quality food, and the cool interior design, 3 Bears feels a world away from Bangkok. The team might not fight for notoriety, but they don’t need to—their sweet spot is simply supplying consistent products in a great social atmosphere.

As Goldencoins was opening this winter, another Thai craft beer bar nearly flew under the radar. In August of 2016, 3 Bears Craft Brewery officially opened in a brick-clad building at the bend of Sukhumvit Soi 22. Unlike Goldencoins, Let the Boy Die, or even the shortlived Mystic Rooftop Bar, 3 Bears wasn’t outwardly emboldening the underground homebrewing movement. Rather, this slick setup brought to Bangkok the craft beer bar vibe common in the West, and other cosmopolitan Asian capitals, such as Hong Kong and Taipei. Now, half a year after opening, 3 Bears has started to hit its stride. The bar is a collaborative project launched by an architect, a sound engineer, and a chef from Seven Spoons, and stands out both for what it is and where it is. A sort of industrial design defines the interiors, with red brick walls, dark wood accents, and pods of Edison bulbs dangling from a lofted ceiling. There’s a stage set up on one end for live music, and a well-lit minimal bar at the other. Unlike many of the soi’s more upmarket offerings, 3 Bears offers a retreat for both socialites and beer geeks, where the hair can be let down and the sleeves rolled up. On the tap list are five kinds of beer, each a different style, all brewed and kegged in Taiwan before being bangkok101.com

Goldencoins Taproom

Ekkamai Mall, Ekamai Soi 10 Open daily: 5pm-midnight Tel: 082 675 9673 facebook.com/goldencoinstaproom

3 Bears Craft Brewery

1154, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Open: Mon-Fri 4pm-midnight, Sat-Sun 11am-midnight Tel: 095 456 8298 facebook.com/3bearscb

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NIGHTLIFE | connoisseur corner

Wine News & Events By Bruce Scott

n the days following the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant awards (see pg. 80 for the full story), several of the list’s superstar chef hung around town, taking part in pop-up dinners and other food related events and parties. On Friday February 24th, chefs Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava and Dylan Jones of the restaurant Bo.Lan—which placed 19th on the list this year—joined forces in their famous kitchen with Chef Luca Fantin, from Bulgari’s Il Ristorante Luca Fantin in Tokyo, for a fantastic wine-paired multi-course meal. A large number of the wines, supplied by FIN Wines (www.fin-wine.com), were from Thailand’s own GranMonte Vineyard, and matched beautifully with the gastronomic delights the chefs had prepared for that evening’s select audience of diners. Another highlight of the Luca Fantin meal was the presence of Andrea Petrini, the man who wrote the introduction to Chef Luca’s recently released art book La Cucina di Luca Fantin by Bulgari. Another grand wine event was the special luncheon given by Gambero Rosso, the renowned Italian food and wine magazine and publishing group founded in 1986. The event took place at Gianni Ristorante, one of the city’s best Italian eateries, and featured 12 mouth-watering courses—each one paired skillfully with a beautiful Italian red, white or sparkling vino that the Gambero Rosso wine guide had awarded top marks. The elegantly mustachioed Marco Sabellico, Senior Editor at Gambero Rosso, acted as the emcee for the afternoon, introducing both the wines and some of the producers who had travelled all the way from Italy to attend the event. Some of the initial highlights included the 2009 Bellavista Franciacorta Pas Operé, a fresh and fizzy prosecco that could easily stand in for a true champagne, and the 2014 Livon Braide Alte, an unforgettable blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Moscato and Picolit. When the reds began to arrive it was hard not to be impressed by the 2013 Petra, a Cabernet/Merlot blend with a distinguished tannin finish, as well as the deep and delicious 2014 Ciccio Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Chronicon. However, my heart ultimately went to the 2012 Velenosi Rosso Piceno Roggio del Filare, which is regularly available at Gianni Ristorante. At the conclusion of the meal, Marco Sabellico presented Chef Gianni Favro with Gambero Rosso’s ‘Top 10 0 | A PR I L 2017

Marco Sabellico

Italian Restaurant, Bangkok’ award for his restaurant— which is just one more reason to visit this exceedingly elegant and enjoyable eatery (located at 34/1 Soi Tonson). As for upcoming wine news, About Eatery (Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit Soi 21) is hosting Bangkok's first ever Natural Wine Festival on Sunday, April 2nd. The event runs from 11am to 7pm and promises guests the most exciting collection of natural, organic and biodynamic wines—free from unpleasant chemicals and/or preservatives—ever assembled in Thailand. The team at About Eatery, led by owner Giulio Saverino, have long been dedicated to these wine movements, and anyone who has visited this gem of a restaurant knows exactly what a fabulous product line they bring to Bangkok’s dedicated oenophiles. Tickets for the festival are B500 (limit of 200 tickets), and the price includes 50 selections of wines to taste, along with fine artisanal products to sample. Wine by the glass or bottle and food plates will be available for purchase at special prices. And, if all goes according to plan, the Bangkok Natural Wine Festival will be a regular annual event in Thailand. Natural wines at About Eatery bangkok101.com

NIGHTLIFE | listings

BARS Duke

Although it’s in a mall, this high-end whisky and cigar lounge—full to bursting with paintings and sculptures—feels more like a SoHo warehouse loft space owned by an eccentric millionaire. 1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 094 647 8888 Open daily: 11am-midnight facebook.com/pg/duke.gaysorn

Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.pullmanbankokgrandesukhumvit.com

Gypsy Spells Bar

A themed bar, focusing on fortune telling and Thai legends, offers a unique cocktail menu, as well as live gypsy jazz music on Friday nights and blues on Saturdays. 2, Sukhumvit Soi 29 Tel: 02 662 3060 Open daily: 5:30pm to midnight www.mahanaga.com

Inblu Bar

Located on the hotel’s lobby level, this stylish drink spot offers an extensive selection of beers, whiskies, cocktails, and wines, plus tasty nibbles and great live music seven days a week.

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The Living Room

Home to one of the finest live jazz venues in Bangkok, this nightspot is tastefully decorated, and includes a sweeping bar, comfortable armchairs and sofas, and subdued lighting—not to mention fine whiskies, cocktails, and cognacs. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

1F, 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily: 9am-midnight Tel: 02 649 8353 www.thelivingroomatbangkok.com

Vogue Lounge

This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and formerly chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks. MahaNakhon Cube Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 001 0697 Open daily: 10am-late www.voguelounge.com

ROOFTOP SKY BAR Above Eleven

A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack.

bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE 33F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel 38/8, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 207 9300 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.aboveeleven.com

amBar

Located on the 8th floor rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, this pool bar offers an inviting and relaxed lounge atmosphere. Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3288 Open daily: 4pm-midnight www.ambarbangkok.com

Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.minorhotels.com/en/avani/riversidebangkok

Char

Located on the 26th floor of the Hotel Indigo, visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Cielo Sky Bar

Attitude

This sky-high drinking and dining spot boasts an inventive cocktail menu, delicious tapas-sized nibbles, and Instagram-worthy desserts, but the view overlooking the river is what really commands the attention here. 26F, Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 431 9100

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A rooftop bar, with a business-casual ambiance and unbeatable views of Bangkok, serving a wide-ranging and impressive list of cocktails at fair prices. 46F, Sky Walk Condominium Sukhumvit Soi 69 Tel: 02 348 9100 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.cieloskybar.com

Moon Bar & Vertigo

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Hotel offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for honeymooners. 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars, perched dramatically above the heart of the city, offers light bites and drinks such as the signature Imperial Mojito and Martini-infused cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Sky On 20

At this new, and very stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok. Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok

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NIGHTLIFE | listings

The Speakeasy

One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts, wines at solid prices, and cocktails (some crafted from homemade vodka infusions). 24/25F, Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.hotelmusebangkok.com

7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-1am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com

Zoom Sky Bar & Restaurant Meet, sip, and dine overlooking the city at this well-designed venue, offering innovative culinary experiences and 360Â° cityscape views. 40F, Anantara Sathorn Hotel Bangkok 36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd. Tel: 02 210 9000 Open daily: 6pm-1am bangkok-sathorn.anantara.com

CLUB Zest Bar and Terrace

Zest Bar and Terrace

Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails, and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips.

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Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/8oneleven

8 on Eleven

A gastro bar with a modern industrial twist and a 2nd floor dance area, this newest addition to the Sukhumvit Soi 11 nightlife scene offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes with a modern twist. 14, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 093 421 1991

Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best sound systems. You can be yourself hereâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com

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listings | NIGHTLIFE

Cé La Vi

Cé La Vi Bangkok (formerly Ku De Ta Bangkok) is one of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. 39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair, one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

The Australian

A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. 37, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 0800 Open daily: 9am-late www.theaustralianbkk.com

The Drunken Leprechaun

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

LIVE MUSIC Bamboo Bar

Narz

Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance crowd moving for over two decades with their wild party atmosphere. Perfect for groups who want to make it their playground for the night. 112, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 4805 Open daily: 9pm-3am www.narzclubbangkok.net

PUBS Mulligan’s Irish Bar

A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com bangkok101.com

A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com

THE BEST of

Brown Sugar

Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com

Queen Bee

A great place to hang out and meet up with friends while enjoying great live music. Come play some pool and check out Bangkok’s best rock’n’roll and blues cover bands. 25/9, Sukumvit Soi 26 Tel: 092 446 4234 Open: 10:30am-2am www.facebook.com/QueenBeeBangkok A PR I L 2017 | 105

One-of-a-kind pieces from Why Don’t You concept store

| LIFESTYLE

LIFE+STYLE unique boutique If you want to add some artistic flair to your wardrobe with some extraordinary, yet affordable pieces, look no further than the recently opened WHY DON’T YOU concept store at the 9:53 COMMUNITY MALL in the Thonglor area (Sukhumvit Soi 53). Nicknamed an “Eccentric Bohemian Laboratory”, this quaint boutique is a collaboration between SAMRONE, a stylish fur brand, and ROSEBUD, makers of a range of luxurious and flamboyant leather bags and jewellery—all created by French artist and designer ARMELLE COHEN. Each bag can be customized, and the special designs are only available in limited edition, making them truly unique pieces of art. www.facebook.com/whydontyoustore

intriguing travel KKDAY, Asia’s holiday and travel experience expert, is now in Bangkok. Since its official launch in Taiwan, in 2014, the company has expanded to Hong Kong, Malaysia, Korea, Japan, and Singapore before touching down in Thailand. Currently, the platform provides over 6,000 travel experiences, from 53 countries and 174 cities across the globe, with all kinds of unique experiences to choose from—scuba diving, rock climbing, cooking classes, secret sights, full day tours, and more. Their team of travel addicts assist in curating the best local experiences for travellers, which could come in handy if you’re new to town, or if you’re a long-time resident with visiting guests. www.kkday.com

parks and recreation As of March 26th, downtown Bangkok now has a tiny bit more green space with CHULALONGKORN UNIVERSITY officially opening CU CENTENARY PARK, under the auspices of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. Measuring 30 rai—about onetenth the size of Lumphini Park—the split-story green is the centrepiece for a huge redevelopment of the Samyan neighbourhood, which in turn is being redeveloped to (hopefully) one day become Bangkok’s version of Silicon Valley; a “smart city” full of innovative startup businesses. At any rate, enjoy the virgin park while you can, because a shopping mall, office tower and condominium unit are soon to come to the area too.

get well soon The Art Deco-inspired WELL HOTEL BANGKOK (10, Sukhumvit Soi 20) is celebrating its first anniversary, and from now until the end of April they’ll be wowing guests with special promotions. Get an 11 percent discount on room rates by entering the promo code ‘1WELL’ when making online reservations, or just drop by and take advantage of the ‘1 Baht Promotion’ on food and drink, and spa visits. At TWIST BAR & BISTRO and EAT WELL CAFÉ, order one dish (and/or drink) at the regular price and get the second for just 1 Baht. Meanwhile, at the WELL SPA, purchase a 60-minute treatment at regular price and get a Well Classic Partial Massage (30 mins) for just 1 Baht. www.wellhotelbangkok.com bangkok101.com

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LIFESTYLE | spa products

Protect the Skin You’re In Harnn, Thailand’s prestige natural spa, body care and skin care product line, is known for its unique blend of natural scents and pure essential oils from selected Asian herbs, spices and flowers.

Founded in 2000, Erb is the brand that brings a touch of bliss to modern life—fusing traditional wisdom and modern femininity, and presenting the power of natural ingredients and the latest scientific innovations. Its product line delivers exceptional health benefits along with delightful sensorial experiences.

ERB UP IN ARM UNDERARM DETOX MASK

Made of a variety of ingredients, including white clay, guava leaf, and tamarind, this detox mask is meant to be applied to the underarm area 5-10 minutes before showering, for a gentle, nourishing cleanse. After a few weeks your skin should feel entirely revitalized. Priced at B750 this product is available at leading department stores such as Central World, Siam Paragon, Siam Discovery, and Central Chidlom. www.erbasia.com

HARNN BATH & MASSAGE OIL

Formulated with rich vitamin E and high Oryzanol rice bran oil, to soften and nourish your skin, this product line is available in three different formulas: Concentration, a combination of vetiver and cardamom that aims to ease tension and improve focus and concentration; Pleasure, made of bergamot and sandalwood to induce relaxation, calmness, positive thoughts, and pleasure in mind and soul; and Awakening, whose main ingredients—michelia and lemongrass—will uplift your spirit and fight depression with fresh floral scent. Priced at B1,950 this product is available at many leading department stores as well as the Harnn online shop. www.harnlifestyle.com Botanique is famous for its natural fragrances, produced from 100 percent natural raw materials. Since 2016, the brand has launched its new product line covering a wide range of skin care products, including bath gel, body lotion, hand cream, and sun protection.

BOTANIQUE MELON PONY BODY LOTION Just recently introduced, this product protects and moisturizes your skin with natural ingredients such as Beta-Glucan, a yeast extract that was proved to slow down cell deterioration and resist anti-oxidants. Keep your skin hydrated throughout the hottest month with this lotion that contains natural vitamin E and a rich lotus extract. Priced at just B850, this lotion is available at leading department stores throughout Bangkok and online as well. www.botaniqueshop.net

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spa review | LIFESTYLE

Lavana Grand

olished, reliable, and often a little lifeless seems a fair description of high end hotel spa facilities. Though frequently wonderful, there are few surprises or off-script moments to be found, making for a relaxing if not predictable visit. But for your next spa appointment, I encourage you to think outside the box. Beyond the big name chains sits a hotel spa that surprised me at every turn. The recently opened Lavana Grand sits nestled within the Hotel Eugenia, a stunning colonialstyle building on Sukhumvit Soi 31. If you take the BTS to Phrom Pong or Asok, just call ahead and reception will send a free tuk tuk to collect you. It’s the second facility to be launched by the owners, and quite different to its more traditional sister spa on Sukhumvit Soi 12. It’s dark when I arrive, but the Eugenia is lit up by amber spotlights beautifully highlighting the old world-style architecture of this late 19th-centurystyle house. Walking through the doorway is like stepping back in time, into a room adorned with antique furniture, rich tapestries, and luxurious fabrics. Though grand, the décor is charming and homey, and I’m put at ease by the friendly staff. bangkok101.com

My experience begins with a cup of hot beal fruit tea in the lobby—a museum of art and teak furnishings— before being taken to my treatment room. Situated on the first floor, a set of wooden steps surrounded by intricate balustrades and twinkling chandeliers leads me there, past a landing of carefully curated ornaments and objects. I make a mental note to feed my Instagram with shots of this beautiful venue on the way out. My room is a vast space, simple but elegant and perfectly in keeping with the colonial style of the property. It even has its own bathroom, complete with a broad, copper, freestanding tub, which is filling with warm water as I arrive, in preparation for the Secret Healing Herbal Bath (B800). Though the therapist can’t tell me exactly what ingredients go into their secret mix, I’m enjoying the relaxing soak nonetheless, my first chance at a proper bathe in months. I take advantage of the “medicinal and herbal qualities” of the herbs for 30 minutes, before hopping on to the massage table for a Balancing Four Hand Massage (B2,450 for one hour). Exactly as the name suggests, this treatment utilizes four hands—that’s two therapists—to unknot tight

muscles and reduce tension. Hands gliding and kneading in-sync, they each focus on a different area, able to dedicate a little more time on problem zones than they would working solo. I’m checked on throughout to make sure I’m comfortable, but this is no superficial, fall-asleep-on-the-table massage. My masseurs work on my knotted shoulders tirelessly, often painfully, to rid them of their gnarled muscles. I flinch, but they persist, telling me gently, “Just one more time.” When the hour is up, one masseur remains to complete my treatment with some chiropractic techniques. Bones click from my shoulder blades to my spine, but suddenly I feel looser, more open. In fact, my whole body feels great, awake, in a way I’ve never experienced post-massage before. The momentary pain was worth it, and I find I walk a little taller, straighter than I did before. When my muscles grow weary once more, I will be back. by Annaliese Watkins

Lavana Grand

1F, Hotel Eugenia, 267, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Open daily: 9am-10pm Tel: 088 083 7300 www.theeugeniaspa.com A PR I L 2017 | 109

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

id you know that for one small price you can purchase a Muse Pass, which can be used for visits to 40 museums and multiple learning centres across Thailand? The pass costs only B199, and can be purchased at most participating museums from now until September 30th, 2017 (valid for one year from date of purchase). When you buy the Muse Pass, you also receive a foldable map that lists all of the free museums and learning centres (however be aware that it is in Thai only). First introduced five years ago, the card has been upgraded from the previously used paperstamp style to a plastic card that can be scanned at each museum. There are also an additional 19 museums added to the list from last year, as well as the inclusion of a map and discount coupons for various partnered shops. The majority of these institutions are located in and around Bangkok, but the pass also encompasses museums and learning centres in Pattaya, Phuket, Phitsanulok, Khon Kaen, and Chiang Mai (including that city’s recently opened MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum). For more information— including a full list of participating museums and details on where to purchase the Muse Pass—visit the websites or call 02 225 2777 ext. 123. privilege.museumsiam.org www.facebook.com/musepass

King Prajadhipok Museum

PARTICIPATING MUSEUMS IN BANGKOK INCLUDE: • Museum Siam • King Prajadhipok Museum • The Queen’s Gallery • Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall • Baan Mowaan • Pipit Banglamphu Heritage Museum • Silapa Rattanakosin Resource Center & Sai Suddha Nobhadol Building Museum

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• Police Museum Parusakawan Palace • Anti-Corruption Museum • GIT Gem and Jewelry Museum • Krung Thai Art Gallery • Investment Discovery Museum • Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage • Art in Paradise Bangkok Museum • Sam Sen Nai Philatelic Museum • Chulalongkorn University • Batcat Toy Museum Museum of Natural History • Bangkok Sculpture Center • Phayathai Palace • Royal Thai Air Force Museum • Siriraj Medical Museum • Suksasom Museum • Bangkok Folk Museum • Khon Village

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