Bangkok 101 Magazine Mar-Apr 2020 by Talisman Media

Publisher’s Let ter

B WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

angkok 101 and Bangkok Art Map (BAM) would like to extend sincere condolences to those who lost their lives to the Novel Coronavirus and in the shooting incident at Terminal 21, Nakhon Ratchasima. Moving forward, we hope that Thailand will turn the page to a new chapter where things change for the better. We had the opportunities to enjoy long and intriguing discussions with remarkable characters. First, we had a chat with Max Simpson of Steps with Theera, the social impact enterprise offering life skills and employment training for those with learning difficulties (pg.12). We also spoke to the creator of Chul Farm on the community garden at T77 (pg.14). Then a dynamic interview with British designer, Alexander Lamont unfolds (pg.26), as well as with a humble photographer Tim Russel and his work in Faces of Khlongtoey (pg.30). We continue to explore the up-and-coming foodie hot spots in Ari (pg.16) before breaking down the ins-and-outs of Chao Phraya River and Khlong Saen Saep Express Boats. This might just be very useful when one needs to find a shortcut through Bangkok traffic (pg.22). Also, Bangkok Art Map (BAM) and Bangkok 101 would like to congratulate every gallery and all parties involved in another successful edition of Galleries’ Night 2020. Get in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond, visit our archive online at www.bangkok101.com. Enjoy. We always strive to bring the best and most valuable content to you, and if you feel there are things we’re not covering but should, please drop Mason Florence us a line at info@talisman.asia. Publisher

BANGKOK 101 PARTNERS

4 | MAR /APR 2020

bangkok101.com

42 Dr Tom Vitayakul

A Bangkok-born and internationally bred aesthete, Dr Tom Vitayakul brings the best stories of creative minds and artistic souls to life from traditional to contemporary, to avant-garde about their visions, inspirations and creations. FB/IG: @tom.vitayakul

Joe Cummings

Award-winning writer Joe Cummings created the first Lonely Planet Thailand guidebook and later became deputy editor for the Bangkok Post magazine. FB/IG: @joecummings

Rosalind Yunibandhu

Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. She believes that food offers much more than just means of sustenance, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

Our roving roadside gourmand, she knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. IG: @nymster

Samantha Proyrungtong

Australian-borne entrepreneur with Thai roots, founder of Bangkokfoodies. com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community who has become a well-known voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. FB: @bangkokfoodiesthailand IG: @bangkokfoodies

Chris Watson

Chris is a former Michelin Guide Inspector, following an international career in hospitality spanning 30 years in both the Middle East and Asia, has now settled in Thailand and contributes to ‘Into the Hood’ column in Bangkok 101. IG: @xmichelinman

City Pulse 10 12 14 16 18 20 22

Metro Beat My BKK Steps with Theera, a social impact enterprise My BKK PYO Vegetables at Bangkok’s New Farm Best of BKK Into the Hood: Ari Best of BKK Thailand’s Splish Splash Festival 101 Best of BKK Baan Silapin Best of BKK Beating Bangkok Traffic by Boats

Snapshots 26 30 32

Now New Next Alexander Lamont Joe’s Bangkok Faces of Khlongtoey Very Thai Sanuk-On-Sea

Travel

34 Krabi101

Art & Culture 40 42 46 47 48 52

Art Opening Museum Feature The Royal Barge Museum Cultural Heritage Bank of Thailand Museum Galleries’ Night 2020 Photo Feature Indigo Monsters Return at La Lanta Fine Art Exhibition Listings

Bangkok 101 is available at:

rowning the Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld on the 59th ﬂoor is an exquisite rooftop bar. CRU Champagne Bar showcases a perfect blend of classic and contemporary design. It features the breathtaking 360-degree vistas of Bangkok skyline where guests can indulge in an international choices of a la minute snacks with an extensive range of G.H. Mumm champagnes. The bar recently welcomed Mumm Olympe Rose (B999), the latest creation by G.H. Mumm Champagne. Made from a combination of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, it is aged using the liqueur de dosage method in cognac barrels. This results in pale salmon pink colour with intense yet smooth ﬂavours completed with subtle gourmet notes. The selection of Pinot Noir comes from some of the most prestigious crus in Champagne which lends an air of sophistication to the mix.

British designer, Ross Lovegrove created the bottle to have a more slender bottleneck to preserve the aroma. The bottle is decorated with a signature red sash, the highest honour given to G. H. Mumm by Napoleon the first of France. A more expressive number is G.H. Mumm Grand Cordon Brut, Reims NV (B999). The ﬂavour reﬂects the House style of Pinot Noir grape, chosen from over 300 varieties and combined with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier based blends. The Grand Cordon Brut is selected from over 100 different crus and aged for 20 months in the Maison’s cellars. It expresses the rich aromas of ripe peach, apricot and pineapple chased by hints of vanilla, caramel, yeast, dried fruit and honey.

CRU Champagne Bar

62 Food & Drink

54 Aroy Upcoming food events and news 56 Kitchen Backstories Rice: The Unsung Hero 57 Eat Like Nym Hidden Chinese Herbal Soup in the old park 58 Bitchin’ in the Kitchen Roses are Red, Violets are Blue, Where the Hell Are You? 60 Restaurant Reviews Pizzeria Mazzie, Thiptara Thai Restaurant, Saffron Cruise, Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, Decanter 66 Meal Deals Best dining deals in the city 68 Food & Drink Listings

Nightlife

74 Nightlife Updates 76 Reviews May Rai Pad Thai Wine Bar 78 Nightlife Listings

Signing Off

92 Signing Off—Did you know? The Department of Marine and Coastal Resources

74 Publisher Editor-in-Chief Associate Publisher Managing Editor Editor-at-Large Associate Editor Art Director Graphic Designer Strategists

Mason Florence Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond Tipparnee Prajakwit Morgan Thanarojpradit Joe Cummings Sithasa Kanchanavijaya Narong Srisaiya Thanakrit Skulchartchai Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

Contributing Writers

Samantha Proyrungtong Korakot Punlopruksa Tom Vitayakul Chris Watson Rosalind Yunibandhu Amy Poulton

General Manager Senior Sales Manager Distribution

Vittoria Dell’Anna Ornuma Promsrikaew Pichet Ruengjit

Contents Table of

Mar/Apr 2020

On the cover

Krut Hern Het Royal Barge (pg.42)

PUBLISHED BY Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 | Fax: 02 286 7829 | bangkok101@talisman.asia ©Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2020. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CUISINE ART Ghunchiang Bpoo Pad Chaa Ghunchiang Bpoo Pad Chaa is blue swimmer crab paddles wok-tossed in aromatic Thai herbs. Hand-picked and selected hind legs or paddles of blue swimmer crab have plump and juicy meat. They are lightly sautéed with aromatic herbs and spices such as chillies, Thai basil, green peppercorn, and ﬁnger roots. This is one of Ruen Urai’s “Aquatic Treasures” menus, inspired by abundant food from the rivers and the seas of Thailand. Experience ﬁne Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Open from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

CITY PULSE | Metro Beat

Mar/Apr

Music

Niki

Mar 14

VERY Festival Spring Break is back. It is an international music festival by The VERY Company which gathers world-class music acts at Thunderdome. The lineup stars Joji, Niki, Bruno Major and three more artists. The Phase 1 tickets are at B2,800 and Phase 2 at B3,200. www.facebook.com/veryfestival

Apr 11-13

Held at Urban Bangkok RCA for three days and nights, Siam Songkran Music Festival 2020 returns with a concept of Southeology: the Mysterious Kingdom. It is famous for the twoin-one music and water festival experience where artists and international DJs and Thai culture meet. From Afrojack, Andrew Rayel to Zomboy and more, there is also a stage takeover by Barong Family & Friends and Q Dance. Tickets start at B1,700. www.siamsongkran.com

Craft

Mar 25-Apr 5

The 41st Bangkok International Motor Show is held under the theme of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Inspiration Unlocks The Futureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; at Impact Challenger 1-3 Muang Thong Thani. The public day hours are Monday to Friday from 12pm to 10pm and Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 10pm. This is the largest event in Thailand to exhibit new and recent car and motorcycle models, promotions as well as accessories. www.bangkok-motorshow.com

Sport

Mar 21

Atelier Rudee is hosting a cuttlebone casting workshop (B3,200) from 1pm to 6pm. This is a rare opportunity to learn the method and process of jewellery casting and make moulds for the creations. Students will get to prepare and carve the mould as well as casting their personal pieces using 10 grams of silver. www.atelierrudee.com 10 | MAR /APR 2020

Automobile

Apr 18-19

WWA Wake Park World Series Stop #2 is taking place at Zanook Wake Park and bringing into view both pro and amateur divisions. The 2020 Thailand Wake Park World Series Stop is the first to give equal prize money to Pro Men and Pro Women riders in both Traditional and Features-Only divisions totalling to over B1,000,000. The audience can expect to see new installed features. www.thewwa.com bangkok101.com

Metro Beat | CITY PULSE

Culture

Travel

Apr 13-15

For those who are in the mood for Songkran, head to Wisutkasat Road, Under the Rama XIII Bridge for Songkran Wisutkasat. The festival is best known for the original Miss Songkran Beauty contest. For the 77th anniversary, several other cultural activities such as merit making, purifying Buddha image, paying respect to the elders, and colourful parade are also arranged. In addition, the Bank of Thailand Museum (Bangkhunprom Palace) is open to the public for free. For those who want to get a gist of Songkran that’s a bit milder than other districts like Silom, opt for Songkran Siam Square. This year’s themes are Pha Khao Ma or Thai men’s multi-purpose loincloth and Safe Songkran in which attendees are encouraged to celebrate without Din Sor Pong powder, alcohol or inappropriate outfits. Main cultural activities involve purifying Buddha images from four ASEAN countries, musical performances, folk market and water-based amusements. www.luxurysocietyasia.com

Apr 19-21

Phra Pradaeng is one notorious area in Bangkok for roughness during the annual Songkran festival. It is recommended, for locals and tourists alike, to avoid Phra Pradaeng City Hall at all costs. Unless you have the urge to observe Mon ceremonies and different New Year traditions which are celebrated later than the rest of Thailand, go with caution. bangkok101.com

Benefits for Your Business from Cathay Pacific Cathay Pacific is offering Business Plus Programme to assist companies in managing business travel bookings by saving cost while rewarding both the employers and employees. Many privileges attached are ticket discount, upgrade and lounge access subject to point accrual on a yearly basis. www.cathaypacific.com/businessplus

Spa

Until Mar 31

Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok unlocks the staycation package that comes with an unlimited body massage treatment for B12,899 net. The guests will spend a night in the Garden Villa, receive the Complimentary Club Lounge Access for breakfast, all-day refreshment, and evening cocktails for two. They will also earn a Complimentary B500 F&B credit to be redeemed, valid during the stay only, and finally be pampered in a private spa villa. www.grandhyatt.com MAR /APR 2020 | 11

CITY PULSE | Best of BKK

Steps with Theera Providing steps to sustainable independence, employment and equality by Morgan JT

teps with Theera, established by Max Simpson and Theeta (Uang) Hotrakitya, has an ambitious goal from the start. It is a social enterprise created to provide a real-life training facility for trainees to learn life skills and accumulate work experience at the coffee shop while offering space for the community to learn more about autism and those with special needs. Max came to Thailand over nine years ago and worked as a teacher at an international school for those with learning difficulties. However, one thing she realised

12 | MAR /APR 2020

is that most of the adult students here had no employment opportunities after they finished school. “I first came to Bangkok to work in an international special needs school... I saw the students from age 2 to age 35 in the same environment. And the older guys never had the opportunity to move on from the education setting. At the same time, their parents are also quite worried about that, whether it is safe. So I went to a coffee shop in the same soi as the school, called Theera, and spoke to the owner (Uang). It turned out she has a son in the autism

spectrum, so she was very open to working with us. I used to take groups of students from school to the coffee shop to gain experience. “And then I had an early midlife crisis, I asked her, ‘If I quit my job, will you open a full project to do this with me,’ because I believed so much in it. She said yes, so here we are,” Max said. Steps with Theera has a main hub on Ekamai Soi 10. The multipurpose coffee shop is open to the public daily from 9am to 6pm. The menu items on offer here are all-inclusive and suitable for all dietary needs from meat lovers to gluten-free to vegan. bangkok101.com

Best of BKK | CITY PULSE

The vocational training centre is on the upper floors where trainees come to learn and develop life skills and employability to move into a work environment. The training centre uses an accredited training programme from the UK, adapted to suit Thai culture. Each trainee will follow their personalised programme guided by their interests, whether it is art or computer programming. They will, in turn, create their portfolio with diary entries, completed tasks and photographs demonstrating their skills as proof of their employability. The curriculum aims to offer independence to trainees and eventually make them employable. “My background is in special needs education. We came together as a team. We had no idea whether it would work... “We thought we needed to have a customer environment because it offers the opportunity for the public to see people with disabilities living capably. bangkok101.com

Hopefully, once they make it outside of the shop, they will change the perception. “Coffee shops are hard. But we did it. Three and a half years and now we have three coffee shops, two in Bangkok and one in Phuket. We have two training centres, one here and one in Phuket. And we have two zero-waste shops, one here and one in Phuket. So it grew very quickly, too scary, but it means that it’s working. We have about 13 employment partners who we work with. So when our guys graduate, they get to go to sustainable employment, paid employment, elsewhere.” Some of the current employment partners include The Commons, Roast, Roots, El Mercado, Hyatt Regency, Rembrandt, Verasu, Vegan Crush and more. “That’s been one of the key success factors in the programme, that it’s not just isolation here. I’m very much an advocate for this. I never wanted to do a charity because disabilities are already shoved under this umbrella,

you know, ‘Na Song Sarn,’ and I wanted to move away from that.” As for the Bangkok branch, they are considering moving to a new location to accommodate the programme’s rapid growth. Steps with Theera offers both full-time and part-time training courses. Students may join at any time since the enrollment is ongoing. There are 15 full-time employees, three of them have special needs and ten full-time trainees. The team comprises of a speech therapist, counsellors, psychologists and job coaches. The art and computer programming teachers are on a volunteer basis. For partnership information, visit www.stepswiththeera.com/ our-partners

Steps with Theera

29/8 Charonmit, Ekamai Soi 10 Tel: 02 381 6590 Open daily: 9am-6pm www.stepswiththeera.com MAR /APR 2020 | 13

CITY PULSE | Best of BKK

PYO Vegetables at Bangkok’s New Farm An urban community farm project for Bangkokians by Amy Poulton

pick a basket off the post and duck under the green vinesentangled archways—bursts of purple butterfly pea blooms and ballooning pumpkins. Laid out between neat rows of lettuce and cabbage is an Alice-in-Wonderland hopscotch pathway that leads to bushes of reddening and yellowing peppers, and to a wooden sign buried in the ground labelled, ‘zucchini.’ 14 | MAR /APR 2020

Examining the legumes, some engorged and others still growing, I select the perfect one which makes a crisp crunch when plucked from the plant. Birds hop and dance on the ground as I place the courgette in the basket and straighten myself before heading to the chicken coop. The sun is going down and everything smells green. Did I mention that this is in central Bangkok?

Chul Farm at T77 is the capital’s most recently opened and unlikely green space, located between BTS On Nut and Phra Khanong. It brings rural and organic living to the T77 community and the city’s population in general. “My grandfather was originally from Bangkok but loved agriculture. He moved to Phetchabun to start his own bangkok101.com

Best of BKK | CITY PULSE

farm,” explains Jongsarid Cunvong, CEO of Chul Farm and head of the farm’s new project at T77. “Last year we were approached by Sansiri (the real estate developers behind T77) to bring bangkok101.com

Chul Farm to Bangkok and thought it was a good opportunity to show how green space can go together with city living; opening a green space next to a community, so that people can learn about the food they eat and be inspired.” The farm officially opened in late December 2019. The timing couldn’t have been better as Thailand’s supermarkets and 7-Eleven stores announced the ban of single-use plastic bags, starting 1st of January 2020, after increased demand from consumers conscious about plastic waste. “In the past two to three years, more people have become aware of plastic packaging, organic food and environmental topics— they are ready to follow and join the movement,” Cunvong agrees. “Our mission is ‘Way to Happiness,’ which includes three things: health, quality of life and the environment.” These values are certainly present at Chul Farm at T77, which isn’t just about growing organic produce, but also providing opportunities for visitors to learn about the food they consume and enjoy themselves in the process.

The self-harvest is a fun novelty for city folks as well as a zero-waste option for those who don’t need or want unnecessary packaging. The ‘egg hunt’ is playful and appeals to children; while the melon carving activity is all about patience, understanding of growth and appreciation of the time and effort it takes to grow plants well. In the latter activity, visitors carve a pattern into, or write onto the skin of a growing melon, then wait three to four weeks for it to expand to its full size before it’s sent to the visitor’s home—the polar opposite of the convenience of ordering a meal via Grab or FoodPanda, and more personal, too. Chul Farm is also a partner of the neighbouring Sansiri Backyard, a café where visitors can buy the farm’s organic products. They can tuck into snacks and dishes made with the organic ingredients grown next door and enjoy a healthy meal outside in the whimsical garden. If you’re looking for a (literal) breath of fresh air in the city centre, head to Chul Farm at Sansiri Backyard T77. www.kamnanchul.com www.facebook.com/ChulFarmAtT77 MAR /APR 2020 | 15

CITY PULSE | Into the Hood

Into the Hood: Ari

Hipster haven with more restaurants and street food stalls to be discovered

f we were to undertake a survey of Bangkok residents as to which city suburb immediately springs to mind when we say ‘Instagram-worthy hipster hangout cafes’, the answer would probably be Ari. This charming neighbourhood, located less than ten minutes from Siam, with its very own BTS station. It has long been known for countless cafes and bars. It is a firm favourite for both expats and locals to hang out and chill, whilst

providing eminently insta-worthy or Instagrammable (are these really words?) locations. Filled with a unique mix of upscale residential developments and trendy bean-to-bar outlets offering all-day breakfast fare, hidden within are some truly authentic offerings for lunch and dinner, and yes, even some unrivalled street food and several world-class bakeries. Exiting BTS Ari, proceed towards the Esso station and just beyond, you will reach Thanee Chris is a former Michelin Guide Inspector, Khao Moo Daeng (1) offering following an international career in legendary crispy pork, stewed hospitality spanning 30 pork and melt-in-the-mouth pork years in both the Middle belly truly to die for. Turning right East and Asia, has now into Phahon Yothin Soi 5, you will settled in Thailand and come across a vintage café, Tham contributes to ‘Into Ma Da (2). Then walk towards Ari the Hood’ column in Soi 1 and turn left, you will see a Bangkok 101. neon light indicating the modern IG: xmichelinman Cantonese Dai Lou (3) and before 16 | MAR /APR 2020

reaching the second Chinese outpost, Mae Yui (4), a short detour to the right will reveal Landhaus bakery (5), a homey white house with raw-cement walls, natural wood furniture, and a giant wooden table loaded with freshly baked German and Austrian goodies. Almost opposite of Mae Yui, turn right into Rama VI Soi 30 and you will reach the elegant Khua Kling Pak Sod (6), the Ari outpost of a Southern Thai restaurant, popular with hi-so and worthy of their Sukhumvit Michelin Bib Gourmand, curiously absent from its sister. Continue walking for a few more minutes, you will stumble across a wonderfully engaging aunty serving up deepfried tofu, taro and corn from her unnamed street stall (7). Take a slight detour down Ari Samphan Soi 6 and discover bangkok101.com

Into the Hood | CITY PULSE

11 1 6 10

and Som Tum. A short walk further and well worth a visit is the truly 8 Ari Soi 3 authentic Thai dessert shop, Kanom 14 Pan Sib–Khun Tik (11), located in Phibun Wattana Soi 5, near the 15 Ari Soi 2 6 Ministry of Finance building. 5 17 16 Now we grab a tuk-tuk for a 18 20 19 short ride to Phahon Yothin Soi 7, 4 2 3 Ari Soi 1 popularly referred to as Soi Ari. Get 1 off between Soi 3 and Soi 4, you Phahon Yothin Rd will find two firm neighbourhood favourites, Salt (12) and Joha (13), Yoong Chang (8), describing itself both serving up a popular fare. The as neo-Chinese and serving up one former is Korean, and the latter is of the best handmade noodles in Japanese/Italian. Bangkok. Continue past Soi 3, Returning to the main road, Ari specialising in Som Tam, Hua Hin institution of Pla Dib (9) is located seafood and Isaan influences where it has been for the past lending a kick to certain dishes is decade. The owners grow their Lay Lao (14), a deserving recipient produce on their local farm to of a Michelin Bib Gourmand. provide the freshest ingredients Further along, on the corner of for their fusion of Thai, Japanese Soi 2, Pad Thai and Kuah Gai are and Italian cuisine. served up from an unnamed At the corner of the main collection of stalls (15). These road with Ari Samphan Soi 9 is an are both truly yummy and, in unassuming street restaurant, Lert themselves, well worth a visit. Ros Kai Yang (10), which serves Carrying on down Soi Ari is up super tasty Isaan grilled meats a plethora of street food stalls 9

Ari Soi 4

Phahon Yothin 5

bangkok101.com

12 13

Phahon Yothin 7 (Soi Ari)

Rama VI Soi 30

Ari Sampan 6

20 (16), offering a multitude of Thai snacks. These stalls sit in front of three hidden gems, the first, Guay Jub Ratchawong Ming (17), the second, Ong Tong Khao Soi (18), a hotspot with unending queues. It originated in Chiang Mai and justly awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Lastly, One Dee (19), a tiny two-storey café serving up Thai-inspired coconut desserts and homemade ice creams. Before boarding the SkyTrain home, do take a right turn into Soi 1 to visit V’lacha Siam Dessert and Tea Room (20), a cosy traditional tea parlour where one may enjoy authentic Thai desserts in a tranquil and comfortable ambience. Ari has proved to be a pleasant surprise. Being known as the leading suburb in numbers of fashionable cafés is not necessarily a bad thing, however, with a little effort, one can find a burgeoning tally of authentic restaurants and street food stalls, perhaps not so insta-worthy, but definitely yumworthy! MAR /APR 2020 | 17

CITY PULSE | Best of BKK

Baan Silapin

A community of creatives for creatives on the riverbanks

18 | MAR /APR 2020

bangkok101.com

Best of BKK | CITY PULSE

aan Silapin, literally meaning Artist’s House, is a lesserknown community situated along the old Bang Luang canal. Hidden away from plain sight on the Thonburi side of Bangkok by the contemporary development and growth, it primarily serves as a workspace, exhibition hall, café and souvenir shops. Moreover, it aims to preserve the arts, culture and promote the traditional Thai puppet theatre by converting a part of the 200-year-old family house into a cultural centre. Established in 2010, the wooden structure of Baan Silapin has been renovated and maintained in pristine condition by the four co-founders. It is an L-shaped, two-storey Manila home surrounding an ancient goldsmith family Chedi. Visitors can admire the local way of living in the neighbourhood as well as pay respect to the pagoda dating back to the Ayutthaya period. Fish feeding activity is also available. Both the Artist’s House attraction and traditional Thai puppet theatre are free of charge. The gallery regularly hosts art exhibitions, creative activities and workshops. These include jewellery-making classes and mask painting for children.

bangkok101.com

The small coffee shop offers a general selection of hot and cold drinks with some simple Thai dishes available on the weekends. At the back of the shop, there is a wooden staircase leading to numerous local artist shops where visitors can buy paintings and drawings. The puppet show is held four days a week on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday with one show per day at 2pm. The show could be abruptly cancelled due to off-site performance, so make a phone call in advance. There are a few ways to reach Artist’s House including public transportation, personal vehicle and boat service. Baan Silapin is a short taxi ride from Tha Phra MRT station. It is open from Monday to Tuesday, 10am-6pm; Wednesday to Friday, 9am-6pm; and Saturday to Sunday, 9am-7pm. Puppet shows are held every Tuesday to Sunday at 2pm, but it’s best to call and confirm ahead of time.

Baan Silapin

309 Phet Kasem Soi 28 Rd Open daily: 10am-6pm Tel: 02 868 5279 www.facebook.com/pg/Baansilapin MAR /APR 2020 | 19

CITY PULSE | Best of BKK

Songkran

Thailand’s Splish Splash Festival 101

ne of the hottest and driest times of the year in Thailand is typically from March to June. April is supposedly the warmest month of summer which marks the 13th every year as Songkran or Thai New Year’s national holiday until the 15th. The festival has long been celebrated nationwide by Thais and foreigners residing in the country or visiting for vacation. While some traditions are still preserved, it’s fair to say that new practices have reinterpreted the initial meaning and purpose of Songkran. History & Origin Since the Ayutthaya period, the original purpose of Songkran has been to celebrate the Thai New Year. The celebration changed in 1940 when the New Year date 20 | MAR /APR 2020

was officially shifted to 1 January. The traditional Thai New Year is celebrated as holidays since. The word ‘Songkran’ comes from the Sanskrit word ‘sam . krānti,’ meaning movement, indicating the motion of the sun passing from one zodiac to another. For this reason, Songkran occurs every month in Sanskrit definition. In the Thai context, the Maha Songkran period signifies the motion of the sun turning from Pisces to Aries as the beginning of a new year according to the Indian solar calendar. There are also beliefs that Songkran activities might be influenced by Holi festivities in India where people throw coloured powder at one another. Locations The four main regions in Thailand

keep a variety of traditions during Songkran, some are different and others share similarities. In the north, people organise Buddha statue parades. Guns are shot and firecrackers are lit up to expel evil spirits and negativities. The locals also clean their houses and cleanse their bodies. No bad words shall be uttered and no arguments or fights shall take place. In the central part of the country, people gather at homes to feast on Khao Chae or rice soaked in cold water paired with a number of specific side dishes adapted and modified from a Mon recipe. Some side dishes include Kapi balls, stuffed shallots, stuffed sweet peppers, stir-fried sweet pickled Chinese turnips with eggs, raw mango, fresh cucumber, wild ginger, chillies and spring onions. bangkok101.com

Best of BKK | CITY PULSE

interior and exterior of their houses to welcome the new year. Since Songkran is considered as the Buddhist Holy Days, Buddhists attend the ceremony and pray at nearby community temples, make merit and give alms to monks as well as attend the evening prayers.

In the northeastern region (Isaan), temple fairs are held for three days straight with urban plays and dances. And in the south, people stop all kinds of work and get ready to welcome a new City God. All these locations pay respect to the elders as a top priority. Traditions Songkran is a time of change and also a time of cleansing, ridding of the bad and welcoming the new and the good. It is also a time to show respect and humility to the elders. This is usually held on the first day of Songkran with an old custom called ‘Rod Nam Dum Hua’ (rót náam dam hŭa). The younger family members pour rose- and jasminescented water into the palms or feet of their parents and elders and offer them flower garlands. They also ask for blessings on the occasion of the Thai New Year. This is to help wash away the bad bangkok101.com

things in life and welcome good fortune. Another ritual is the bathing of the Buddha statues or ‘Song Nam Phra’. The words literally mean to ‘pour water over monks.’ It is an essential ceremony where Buddhists gently pour scented water over the Buddha images on the altar dressed and decorated with flowers and offerings. This can be done at home or at temples. There are also many altars set up at various locations such as in the department stores, in the lobby of condominiums or hotels, and in numerous locations around town for the public to pay their respect. Songkran is also seen as a spring cleaning time and many Thais would take this opportunity to thoroughly rearrange the

Cultural Importance In terms of religion, Buddhists make merit and use water as a medium to show gratitude and good intentions towards each other. Families bring food offerings to the temple for the monks, keep the right conduct and morality and baste the Buddha statues for luck, health and prosperity. On this occasion, the merit they make often goes to the deceased ancestors. The water-pouring ceremony reflects the importance of family bonds in Thai culture. The youth take this chance to honour their parents and grandparents, likewise, Buddhists to the monks and the junior to the senior. Modern Context Water throwing and Songkran entertainment have escalated in recent years. People previously threw clean water at each other in public with water dippers to beat the heat of the weather as well as to create unity and protect the cultural heritage. Now, many bring water guns into play in which the dangerously powerful ones are banned along with excessive use of the off-white powdery clay, ‘Din Sor Pong’, that could cause sewer blockage. In some districts, water throwing becomes warlike to the extent that cars are involved. The splashing also carries on in annual music festivals during the celebration.

Reference: www.m-culture.go.th arts.tu.ac.th/culture/Book_Songkran2016.pdf en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Songkran_(Thailand) MAR /APR 2020 | 21

CITY PULSE | Best of BKK

Beating Bangkok Traffic by Boat Another way to cut across the city by Morgan JT

22 | MAR /APR 2020

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Best of BKK | CITY PULSE

Wat Sawet Chat

Baan Krua Nua Sapan Hua Chang

Pratunam

Chitlom Wireless

Nana Nua Nana Chard

Asoke-Petchaburi Prasanmit

Italthai

Wat Mai Chonglom

Ban Don Mosque

Soi Thonglor

Charn Issara

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of beautiful, fresh or clean waterways, but rather black, trashfilled and dirty water accompanied by a very unpleasant smell. Khlong Saen Saep is a well-known and well-traverse system with daily running transport boats. The canal connects Chao Phraya River to Prachinburi and Chachoengsao provinces. Khlong Saen Saep Khlong Saen Saep or Saen Saep Canal is one of Bangkok’s main drainage arteries. The canal is 72km long, passes through 21 districts and connects to more than 100 smaller canals. The khlong system begins at Khlong Mahanak in Bangkok and flows

Vijit School

Saphan Klong Tan

Wat Mall Ram

Wat Noi

Ramkhamhaeng 29

Wat Thepleela

Ramkhamhaeng University

Mahadthai

Wat klang

The Mall Bangkapi

Bangkapi Wat Sriboonreung

Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat Route

angkok metropolis is divided by Chao Phraya River, the longest river in Thailand. It is 370km long and empties into the Gulf of Thailand. The river and the canals are the veins and lifeblood of the city. It has been the main commute and commerce since the founding date. Many have come to know Bangkok as the ‘Venice of the East’ with Chao Phraya River known as ‘The River of Kings.’ Aside from the river commute, smaller still is Bangkok’s ‘khlong,’ meaning 'canal' in Thai. King Rama III built the canals to transport Thai soldiers, supplies and weaponry to Cambodia in the years before the Siamese-Vietnamese War (18411845). Today, the word ‘khlong’ doesn’t conjure the image

MAR /APR 2020 | 23

CITY PULSE | Best of BKK

into the Bang Pa Kong River in Chachoengsao province. The construction of the canals began in 1837 and completed three years later. It was once filled with lotus flowers. During King Mongkut’s fourth reign (1851-1868), he ordered the construction of Sra Pathum Palace in Siam District. The lotus-filled canals lend the name to the palace and today’s Pathum Wan District. Through the years, the water becomes heavily polluted. The current Prime Minister, Prayut Chan-o-cha initiated a two-year effort to clean up the canal in 2017-2018. The authority has confirmed an improvement in the water quality in June 2019. Bangkok Boat Transports Travelling along the river and canals can be a great alternative. There are two primary boat services in Bangkok: Khlong Saen Saep Express and Chao Phraya Express. Khlong Saen Saep Express is a transport company. Established since 1990, it offers express boat services for the general public. The 72km-long canal passes 24 | MAR /APR 2020

through 21 districts and connects to more than 100 smaller canals. While Chao Phraya Express offers riverine transportation between Nonthaburi province and Bangkok. Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat Service T he Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat operates like water buses and has been serving since 1990. It runs on the Khlong Saen Saep between Pom Prap Sattru Phai and Bang Kapi Districts. The northern route (Golden Mount) runs from Panfa Leelard to Pratunam. The southern line (NIDA) runs from Pratunam to NIDA or Wat Sriboonrueng, parallel to Petchburi Road. The boats run daily from 5.30am-8.30pm on weekdays and from 5.30am-7pm on weekends and public holidays. They run roughly every 20 minutes, but they can run as often as every minute during rush hours. There are up to 100 boats in operation serving approximately 60,000 commuters daily. There

are convenient transfer locations from the BTS, MRT, Chao Phraya Express Boat, Khao San Road, MBK or CentralWorld. The fare is from 8-20 baht depending on the distance. Chao Phraya Express Boat Services Ruea Duan Chao Phraya or Chao Phraya Express runs between Bangkok and Nonthaburi. The company serves both local commuters and tourists since 1971. The river tourist boats, weekend boat tours and charter boats are also available. Chao Phraya Express has up to 65 boats in operation along the 21km route and serves approximately 40,000 commuters and travellers daily. There are five service routes for Chao Phraya Express: local line (no flag), orange flag, green flag, yellow flag and the tourist boat or the blue flag. The Local Line (no flag) It runs from Nonthaburi (N30) to bangkok101.com

Best of BKK | CITY PULSE

Rama V

Wat Khian

Wat Tuek

Rama VII

Nonthaburi (Phibun Songkhram 3)

Phibun Songkhram 2

Wat Khemaphirataram

Phibun Songkhram 1

Wat Soi Thong

Bang Pho

Kiak Kai

Khiao Khai Ka

Royal Irrigation Department

Phayap

N N

Rama VII

Rama VI

N N

Thep Nari

Krung Thon (Sang Hee)

Krung Thon Bridge

Thewet

Rama VIII Bridge

Phra Athit (Bang Lamphu)

N N

The Orange Flag Boats run from Nonthaburi (N30) to Wat Rajsingkorn (S3) daily from 6am-7pm. The fare is B15. The Green Flag Boats run from Pakkred (N33) to Nonthaburi (N30) and to Sathorn (Centre) on weekdays. The morning service runs from 6:10am8:10am, the afternoon service runs from 4:05pm-6:05pm. Fares range from B13-32 depending on the distance. The Yellow Flag Boats run from Nonthaburi (N30) to Sathorn (Centre) on weekdays. The morning service

is from 6:15am-8:20am and from 4pm-8pm for afternoon service. The fare is B20.

Rama VIII

Somdet Phra Pinklao

Traveller’s Best Practices Boarding the boat can be a challenge, a feat of acrobatic of sorts. The boats will only stop long enough for passengers to transfer on and off before swiftly taking off again. The boat drivers may not take kindly to the slow-moving passengers. If you hear the words, ‘reaw reaw’ that means ‘quick quick.’ The piers can be slippery or wet, do be careful while boarding and wear proper shoes. If you are new to the boat and boarding system, it is best to ask the staff to assist you. Once boarded, take a seat or find a spot to stand and the boat’s porter will find you to sort out the tickets.

Somdet Phra Pinklao Bridge

Rot Fai

Wang Lang (Siriraj)

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Tha Chang (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Tha Tian

Rachini

Saphan Phut

Ratchawong (Yaowarat)

Habour Department

Si Phraya

Wat Muang Khae

Oriental

Memorial Bridge (Saphan Phut)

Phra Pok Klao

Taksin

CENTRAL

Wat Sawet Chat

Wat Worachanyawas

Wat Ratchasingkhon

Krung Thep

Rat Burana

Sathon (BTS: Saphan Taksin)

Rama III

Reference: www.transitbangkok.com/khlong_boats.html www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com

Chao Phraya Express Boat Route

Wat Rajsingkorn (S3). It runs twice daily. The morning round is from 6:45am-7:30am and the afternoon round is from 4pm-4:30pm. Fares range from 9-13 baht depending on the distance.

MAR /APR 2020 | 25

SNAPSHOTS | Now New Next

Alexander Lamont

Merging western vision and eastern artisanship, a Thailand-based English designer has his concepts beautifully crafted into objects of desire

enowned for elegant and contemporary designs of furniture, lighting and accessories, Alexander Lamont expresses his dedication to meticulous workmanship of rare materials and an aesthetic taste refined by a life lived between East and West. Exposed to various global cultures since his childhood, he has lived his life in exotic locales. He recalls, “I talked with my mother, who was a psychologist, about my first 10 formation years. I wanted to know about our thoughts, connections and choices that we have made. An idea from this is in Aristotle’s and St Ignatius Loyola of the Jesuit Order’s saying ‘Give me a child until he is seven and I will show you the man.’ Your vital structure was built since you’re young. “I spent my first three years in Kenya and then Bangalore following my dad. We lived in a house isolated miles away from a village and travelled in Somalia and Ethiopia. My dad was a project coordinator for

26 | MAR /APR 2020

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Now New Next | SNAPSHOTS

intermediate technology and a photographer, seeing all the places in Africa. I grew up in a small environment but at four or five, I returned to the UK from India. I was too young to attend school but for trying out, I spent about five hours a day at playschool, singing English national anthem, playing with other white kids and going to church. It was a huge excitement. I had never been in such situations where there was so much stimulation. I kept asking questions in class. “I have pieced the jigsaw of colourful, fascinating places. I came from religious and traditional families but I have a lot of enthusiasm and love jumping in and experiencing the world. During the long and dark winter, the village is very quiet and still but when working with my dad every Saturday or holiday, I saw exotic folk art, antiques and handicrafts. In 1976, he opened his company called Global bangkok101.com

Village Crafts. Upon opening the wooden crates, I experienced these smells, colours, textures, forms and expressions from all the goods and where they come from. He imported papier-mâché from Mexico, horn carvings from Nigeria, wood carvings and ivory from India and so many materials made in traditional ways. Working with him, I went on my first trip to New York City when I was nine. We travelled a lot and also went back to India. The world just kept getting better. When I was 11, we visited Thailand and I somehow fell in love with this place. After Bangkok, we went to Chiang Mai. It was a gorgeous adventure in a human’s life. Back at school, I led my normal life with nothing special and kept these experiences to myself.” Alexander continues, “When I was young, I wanted to become a mountaineer scaling the heights. Then I wanted to be a butcher, touching and feeling up animal

flesh like a cow’s tongue. And then I wanted to be a criminal lawyer or a journalist. I didn’t want to do what my dad was doing. Working with my dad is difficult. Through growing up and separation, I studied anthropology at SOAS University of London (the School of Oriental and African Studies). I came to learn Thai and live with a Thai-Chinese family in Bangkok for six months. My Thai became good very quickly and this gave me a break from my families. “Then I no longer wanted to be at the peak of the mountains but down in the valley, learning about the people and traditions. In Sociology, there are macro connections as well as micro societies developing their own kinship, hierarchy, conflict resolution, environment and sustainability within itself. Focusing on Thailand and Bali, we studied northern Thailand and an Indonesian island about their contemporary society. White MAR /APR 2020 | 27

SNAPSHOTS | Now New Next

people like to study about tribes and try to understand them but I didn’t want to be an academic or an anthropologist. I’m interested in material culture—what and how they made traditional crafts.” After graduation, Alexander managed a carpet company. He explains, “With handmade products, you have a physical relationship with them. I open, unfold and sell them. I have a lot of contact with it. I love carpets but it was very tough economically. I moved to Hong Kong and was happy to be back in Asia. It is a fun, active and beautiful place to be. I had a

Kong, I started my own business in Thailand with my wife, who is a lawyer. Thailand is quiet, polite, sophisticated and has a deep cultural level. What are the most beautiful materials in the world—shagreen, parchment, mica, straw, bronze, lacquer, etc.? These materials allow artistic expressions for centuries and even beyond. When you look at things in Musée des Arts Décoratifs Paris or in books, they become more beautiful as they age. A sustainable product can last a long time for us to cherish it, like oil paintings. Now the industry creates things that are disposable and last for a few

Thailand has been very good at making beautiful things. People have patience, generosity and a good life. Thais accept and revere handmade things. These genuine pieces have gone through hundreds of hours of creation. They are sources of energy around you.” Alexander employs over 100 artisans in his ateliers for shagreen, parchment, natural lacquer, eggshell, gesso, straw marquetry, gold leaf and bronze finishing. His designs are infused with vitality, soul and character and with a sense that, like their creators, they have come on a journey

proper job selling antiques that I had to research and learn a lot. Selling important pieces requires knowledge and you have to go into the story. I’m totally enthusiastic and love the pieces. Clients have a genuine interest, even more than I have. It’s a lovely experience. These pieces are accessible, not like in museums. They are made from natural materials, by hand and displayed in a refined environment. Through interest and passion, I absorbed this.” Alexander’s story of his business emerges from luminous materials and refined craftsmanship. He ponders, “In 2000, after five years in Hong

years. It’s planned obsolescence with weak and poor materials for clothing, furniture, etc. It’s incredible that we have to change them every ten years. With better materials, things look better, take time and effort to last and grow more beautiful. I’m also concerned about the environment because when making these handicraft works, we have to be careful with toxicity. “During the first seven years, in our feeling, we found colours, textures, interests and stimulations that connect human pulse in the creation of objects, its vibrancy and energy at the world’s heart of luxury and quality. With acceptance and tolerance,

of discovery. The exploration and innovation of materials is a powerful force that drives the creative direction of his company. He muses, “I’m interested in the meeting point of natural materials, time and form. The resulting works contain a vibrancy of surface created by the hours, hands and eyes that nourished them. When I started the business, it’s like a dream to make nice things. It’s the process of finding the materials, working, looking at the design team and craftsmen making things. Now, what I see is a precious group of skills matched with the materials. I have seen many people going into these paths which become their vocations.

28 | MAR /APR 2020

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Now New Next | SNAPSHOTS

“The design part is drawing details for prototypes and letting the team battle with those things. The staff in the workshop from local design schools are incredibly loyal, dedicated and smart—even more than me. I’m a creative director pushing the execution, like a magician. In a wider chain of the industry, we need schools to train people at higher degrees, like seamstresses and furniture makers. It’s a missed opportunity to not have technical colleges for good apprentices and artisans. We also need good resources for the industry like teak or strong, stable and solid wood. The sheets need to be properly dried, with good joinery, hardware, hinges, veneer as well as a sanitary certificate.” On his business, he thinks, “I would really like Thailand to see this as a Thai business. Everything is made in Thailand with love and respect. As a farang, I’m here contributing, living and making it a vibrant place. I’m proud of the works and the Thais. We have to push for higher quality but Thailand is not happening where luxury moves to, not only in materials. I have about 25 international representatives in Los Angeles and New York City and plan for London and Russia in our 20th year. We are building our brand and structure. “I love what I’m doing and my internal direction guides me to be the best. My dad is demanding and has high expectations. It’s like a steel rod in me not to be the second-best. He said don’t stop until you can get beyond it. It’s the perfectionist side—to be the master and in control. When my dad saw the business development, he said ‘Don’t do it so well, it’s too difficult!’” In the future, he says, “At this point, the 20th year is to consolidate and focus more on our retail which gets more difficult. We are broadening our categories to allow customers bangkok101.com

to meet us at different price points with products like smaller gift items and strengthening our furniture and lighting collections. Over the last 10 years, crafts are disappearing. I have to be more creative, thinking of new ways and new things. “For a tiny company like mine, it’s hard to fight at every level. We strive for high quality. My biggest challenge is being creative, to come up with new designs and the new full collection. It’s like putting yourself out there. Is it good enough? Being copied is also frustrating. We provide creative ideas and can’t protect them. Many are eager and willing to copy and forget about greater quality at

a higher price. The bottom line is the budget.” Alexander concludes, “You can’t take Thailand out of these pieces but you can put them in a totally modern interior in Italy and they blend in. People are curious about where it’s made. With great materials, craftsmanship and design, products like the hammered bowls with gilding fit in any environment. I have huge benefits for not being Thai because I don’t have to represent it or to bring Thailand, religion or anything into it. These are modern objects from my own inspiration. They give East-West energy, experience and my personal love that shine through.”

NOW NEW NEXT

SNAPSHOTS | Joe's Bangkok

Faces of Klongtoey

Intrepid shooter Tim Russell documents an endangered Bangkok community

interviewed Tim Russell nearly two years ago while researching a story on Port FC, one of Thailand’s longest-established premiere football clubs, and one which draws much of its fan base from the densely-populated working-class Khlongtoey district. Russell runs The Sandpit, an extremely informative Englishlanguage website devoted to Port football culture and devoured by expat football fans. Originally from Coventry in the UK, Russell moved to Bangkok in 2012 after a decadelong stint in Vietnam where he developed a keen interest in street and travel photography. These intersecting pursuits, Port football and photography, eventually led him and his camera into the heart of the Khlongtoey community. Here, roughly 100,000 people live in simple houses and shanties built on former swamplands bordering the busy river port. Many work on the adjacent docks or in nearby 30 | MAR /APR 2020

Khlongtoey Market, Thailand’s largest fresh market. Over the last four years, Russell has accrued an astounding collection of black-and-white images he shot in Khlongtoey. Many photographers, Thai as well as international, have covered the colourful neighbourhood before, but Russell’s scenes and portraits bring out a character and soul that other shooters have, at least in my opinion, rarely achieved. Recently, the photographer— he insists on being called an amateur though the quality of his work says otherwise—launched ‘Faces of Khlongtoey’, a website devoted to his self-curated photo selection. Divided into Street Life, Market Life, Portraits, and Kids of Khlongtoey, the website so impressed me that I asked Russell if he could take me through his favourite Khlongtoey haunts. We arrange to meet one late afternoon in front of a rustic car wash under the elevated

freeway running parallel to the neighbourhood. Vibrantly coloured clapboard-and-chickenwire structures partially fill the space beneath the freeway, offering a bold contrast with the skyscrapers and shopping malls of Silom financial district nearby. “I don’t really like to use the word ‘slum’ about this area,” says Russell as we head down a narrow alley entrance. “It’s what people call it, and it’s probably about as close as Bangkok gets to such a thing, but it’s not like in Mumbai or Delhi. “Yes, it’s a low-income area, there’s poverty, there’s alcohol and drug abuse and even a little bit of squalor in places, but you always see people out cleaning the area in front of their homes. There’s a sense of community pride. I’ve never seen or experienced anything approaching violent crime.” Russell says his camera explorations of the Khlongtoey bangkok101.com

Joe's Bangkok | SNAPSHOTS Tim Russell

community over the last four years number nearly 40, but he’s never felt unwelcome. “I don’t want to glamorise or romanticise it, but it’s not what people tend to think,” he says. “People have invited me into their houses to share drinks and food. The only dodgy moments I’ve had have involved stray dogs.” As if on cue, a dog ahead of us in the alley runs straight for Russell, obviously recognising him from previous visits. The creamcoloured soi dog is anything but hostile, leaping in joy while he strokes the fur on its back. Asked whether he’s met with any resistance from would-be subjects, Russell explains how he takes time to develop a rapport before whipping out the camera. “If I’m thinking of putting my lens in front of someone’s face, I always talk to them first, to make sure it’s ok. And 99 times out of a hundred it is. If I sense any reluctance at all, I just move on.” bangkok101.com

house shrine—every 100 metres or so. Banyan trees are carefully preserved and swathed in gold lame. Wind chimes decorate doorways, their quiet song reverberating down the alleys. Somewhere towards the middle of the ‘slum’, Russell points out a well-equipped children’s playground. “This used to be a festering garbage dump, but the community got together and cleaned it up,” he says. “I think a local NGO supplied funds for the playground gear.” Homes along the narrow I remember a Bangkok Post walkways vary from abandoned headline from last year quoting a shacks caving in on themselves to deputy transportation minister: freshly painted two- and three“Khlongtoey Slum Must Be Erased.” bedroom houses fronted by The city administration says it will rows of well-tended flower pots. remove Khlongtoey dwellers—an I noticed lots of sak yan, sacred estimated 15,000 families—from Thai tattoos, on the arms, chests the area to make way for more and faces of older men. Among condos and mega-malls. the hordes of smiling kids playing “We’ve been hearing these the alleys, I see two whose scalps claims for years,” Russell says. have been carefully shaved around “Some locals say it will definitely long topknots following Thailand’s happen next year, while others old-fashioned kon juk custom, a say it will never happen, because tradition rarely seen elsewhere too many refuse to move. Some in Bangkok nowadays. A sense families have been here 40 or 50 of the spiritual hovers in the air; years.” it seems like we pass a guardian www.facesofkhlongtoey.com deity shrine—not the normal

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings created the first Lonely Planet Thailand guidebook and later became deputy editor for the Bangkok Post magazine. MAR /APR 2020 | 31

SNAPSHOTS | Very Thai

Sanuk-on-Sea Life at the beach

eachbumming used to be a holiday from the humdrum; now people take their lifestyle on vacation with them. As Thais grow more affluent, mobile and stratified, their beach culture reflects the global consumerist trend for individualist spas, bars and pool villas over guidebooks, sightseeing and package tours. When the world thinks of Thailand, it still thinks beach. Thailand earns billions pandering to tourist fantasies about the four Ss of beachcombing: sun, sand, sea and sex. Local beach culture is distinctly different. Thai beachgoers avoid the sun, censor

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 32 | MAR /APR 2020

the sex, and focus on five other Ss: sand, sea, snacks, sanuk and status. Beachgoing has status, because, as in the West, it originated as an elite retreat. A holiday tan looks healthful and prestigious in the West, yet to Thais loses status. Pale ‘Sunbakers’ risk getting melanoma by roasting their oil-basted flesh to resemble the golden glow of Siamese skin that Thais disparage in themselves or others as Piew dum (black skin). Whiteness implies outsoot work escaped, status accrued, merit earned. So tanning harms both your face and you ‘face’. Seaside pastimes also differ. Farang savour the shushing of

waves as they quietly sizzle in solitude. Languid swims punctuate chapters in ‘airport novels’ with embossed covers. Besides rousing for the occasional parasail, dive or frisbee-toss, there’s rest to recoup, salads to nibble, cocktails to sup, Lycra to adjust so tan lines blur. Thai group beach activity involves non-stop picnicking, whisky sharing, card dealing, guitar strumming, singing, larking, and photographing each other. Locals are as coy as Thai beachgoers in dressing up to swim. It’s not just about the sun, but modesty. Stripping down offends many Thais.

“Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture and an influential must-read among foreigners and Thais. It guides you on an unconventional technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand Thai. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic and snap up a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

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Maya Bay, Phi Phi Islands, Krabi

KRABI 101 A

small yet attractive destination that offers much more than rustic jutting limestone formations, bustling lives in the thick mangrove forests and the crystal clear waters as far as the eye can see. Although most visitors would instantly head for the beaches and the islands offshore, this 4,709sq km little province has much more to offer. The busiest commercial centres in Krabi province have to be Krabi Town, the provincial capital, and Ao Nang beach. It is situated at the mouth of the fivekilometre-long Krabi River, connecting with Yuan and Chi Lat Rivers. Meanwhile, Ao Nang beach is the most popular gateway point for travellers to visit other beautiful islands in the nearby areas.

TRAVEL | Up Country Escape

Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Andaman Beauty Embrace of the sun, the sea and the sand by Morgan JT

36 | MAR /APR 2020

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Up Country Escape | TRAVEL

Krabi Town Fishing used to be the primary industry here, but commerce, the government and tourism have been influencing significant changes. Today, resorts, hotels, guest houses and hostels of all sizes and ranges populate the town. Since the town has no beach, popular activities in this area include kayaking in the mangrove forests and caves exploration at Khao Kanab Nam. Weekends belong to the Walking Street night market which is strewn with an array of handicrafts, beautiful clothing, souvenirs and street food stalls that line the Chao Fah Pier. Walking Street night market opens every FridaySunday from 6pm-11pm. There are also intriguing public art, traffic light sculptures strategically placed on the streets featuring pieces like a flying hawk, a prehistoric apeman, an elephant raising the sword with its trunk and the giant Black Crab Monument along the Krabi River banks symbolising the local reverence for the mangrove forests. Ao Nang Beach Ao Nang beach is a popular mainland destination where vacationers spend the least time. It is one of the busiest hop-off points to famous offshore islands including Koh Hong, Koh Poda, Koh Kai (Chicken Island), Koh Phak Bia, and many more. The beach is vast, and the expansive area is populated with resorts, hotels, guesthouses and hostels of all sizes. There is a wide variety of dining choices here from local street food stalls to food markets to fine-dining restaurants on both sides of the roads towards the Ao Nang Walking Street. The night market opens daily from 5pm-11pm. Some of the most popular activities in the area include sailing, snorkelling and kayaking. There are many eco-tours and trekking excursions available in the national parks located further inland such as rock climbing actions in Railay Beach.

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MAR /APR 2020 | 37

TRAVEL | Up Country Escape

Photo by Bruce Scott

Phi Phi Islands

Phi Phi Islands Phi Phi Islands are a group of islands dotted between Phuket and the Straits of Malacca with 12.15sq km area. The islands were registered as a national park under Hat Noppharat Thara-Mu Ko Phi Phi in 1983 by the Department of National Park Thailand (DNP) covering 387sq km of land and ocean. There are six islets in the Phi Phi Islands, and the most visited are Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Le with Phi Phi Don being the larger and more popular of the two with beautiful Ton Sai Bay and Lodalam Bay. The Phi Phi Le Island has no beaches and is uninhabited though the scenic coves are some of the favourites among snorkelers and divers. One of the most surveyed locations is the beautiful Maya Bay. Over 4,000 visitors are flocking to this pristine strip of white sandy beach daily. This is the reason why Maya Bay is closed to tourists and boats for 120 days a year, from June to 38 | MAR /APR 2020

September, to allow the corals and sea lives to recover and regenerate. Visitors can travel by boat from Chao Fah Pier or Khlong Jilad Pier to Phi Phi Islands. It takes about 1.30 hours to 2.30 hours from the pier to the islands.

of Krabi Town with the local economy focusing around taking visitors on the longtail boat rides or guided kayaking trips in the surrounding mangrove forests. The main attraction here is the Tham Phi Hua To or ‘Ghost Head Cave.’ Prehistoric human remains were excavated in the 1950s along Than Bok Khorani National Park with the 238 cave-wall paintings Around 50km north from Krabi found throughout the complex. Town is Than Bok Khorani National The only known fact is that these Park. It encompasses over 100 cave dwellers inhabited these sq km of majestic and jagged parts about 3,000 years ago. limestone mountain ridges and One wall features Khun Lai coastal mangrove forests. The Sen, a kangaroo-like horned figure area is famous for its breathtaking with a striped body. The painting scenery and is very suitable for most likely depicts a shaman kayaking. wearing a costume and conducting A nature trail from Ao Luek rituals of some sort. The cave visitor centre leads to the Than is believed to be an ancient Bok Khorani Waterfall which is the cathedral used mainly for religious park’s main attraction. purposes. Both locals and visitors stop The mystic figure can be by this location for both relaxation seen throughout this area of and a good swim in pools that Krabi province and has become are believed to have therapeutic something of an unofficial mascot qualities. for the city. Baan Bor Thor is a small village Other cave painting subjects located a few kilometres south include birds, lizards, fish and bangkok101.com

Up Country Escape | TRAVEL

Photo by Bruce Scott

Emerald Pool

Photo by Bruce Scott

Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam

a pair of human hands—one of them with six fingers. The park opens daily from 8:30am-4:30pm and has no accommodation. However, there are small resorts and homestays nearby with a few floating seafood restaurants close to the kayak rental offices.

the park and take a break by dipping their feet into the clear water to fully enjoy the leisure trek. There is a small natural pool perfect for a swim in the middle of a peaceful oasis of greenery.

Emerald Pool This pool of emerald green water is located in the Khlong Thom to Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam the south of Krabi Town near the These coastal areas of Krabi Khao Phra Bang Khram Nature Reserve. province are populated with a network of winding waterways. The main draw here is a series of thermal hot springs emerging One of the most popular is Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam or ‘Two from underground volcanic chambers, perfect for taking a Water Canal.’ It is on the southern side of the dip. It’s usually quite crowded and Than Bok Khorani National Park noisy. covered with abundant mangrove Khlong Thom Hot Springs is another reputable site in the area forests and banyan trees. The main feature is the freshwater with a series of naturally formed hallowed-out bathtubs in the that pours off a nearby limestone mountain mixes with salt water smooth stone. These ‘bathtubs’ as it flows towards the ocean, are filled with fresh running spring creating crystal clear, emeraldwater at a temperature of 35-42 tinged river water flowing through degrees Celsius. The nature reserve opens a course of twisted tree roots. Visitors can walk along the daily from 8:30am-5pm and the raised wooden walkway through admission is B200 per person. bangkok101.com

National Parks: • Khao Phanom Bencha National Park • Namtok Huai To • Phanom Bencha Mountain • Khaopra-Bangkhram Wildlife Sanctuary • Emerald Pool hot spring and mineral bath • Tiger Cave Temple • Than Bok Khorani National Park • Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam Top Attractions: • Maya Bay • Phi Phi Viewpoint • Ban Si Raya • Hat Tham Pra Nang • Hat Nopparat • Phi Phi Islands • Lanta Islands • Wat Tham Suea • Tham Khao Maikaew • Viking Cave • Sa Phra Nang MAR /APR 2020 | 39

From 8am exhibition by Thamarong Wanarithikul

FROM A 2 BKK Dale Konstanz, Sompot Chidgasornpongse, Thamarong Wanarithikul

Art exhibition about Bangkok by people of Bangkok for people of Bangkok

he photographs of taxi interiors taken by Dale Konstanz are the results of his exploration in Thai beliefs and culture. During his daily routine commute to work and other places, the artist captured talismans, inside of the taxis and even faces of the drivers in order to reflect personal faith tied to this particular career in Bangkok. Meanwhile, 8am exhibition by Thamarong Wanarithikul portrays details that represent an angle of life and transportation in Bangkok. The artist photographed a crowd in the same pickup truck from the same spot on an overpass every day. Finally, Sompot Chidgasornpongse’s 16-minute film titled ‘Bangkok in the Evening’ profoundly narrates the chaos and pace of Bangkok. Each evening, Bangkokians suddenly stop whatever they are doing for a brief moment which surprisingly shows unity among diversity. March 20-April 18

Palette Artspace Thonglo 1057 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 064 587 6788 Open daily: 7:30am-9pm www.palettebkk.com

facebook.com/bambangkokartmap

Photo by Jessica Boisson

ART & CULTURE | Museum Spotlight

The National Museum of Royal Barges

On the north bank of Khlong Bangkok Noi lies a museum where eight principal royal barges reside by Morgan JT

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Museum Spotlight | ART & CULTURE

rief History: The Royal Barge Procession The river has always been the most used transportation and commutes in Thailand. The Royal Barge Procession began over 700 years ago. It is a ceremony with both religious and royal significance. It does not only showcase the traditional Thai craftsmanship and traditional art, but also marks the nation’s significant cultural and religious events. During the Ayutthaya period, the royal barges have more use than just being a part of the royal processions. They were used for major religious occasions, receiving and transporting foreign delegations, in boat races, royal ceremonies and even battles where river warfare was more common than sea battles. Unfortunately, these barges were mostly burnt and destroyed after the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767. Though once King Rama I ascended the throne and established Bangkok as the new capital, he revived the tradition and ordered the construction of the new barges. However, after World War II and a period of political turmoil during King Rama VII’s reign, the royal barges’ services were disrupted and the unused boats were destroyed by air bombardment and neglect. That was until King Bhumibol Adulyadej (19462016) initiated an extensive restoration of war-damaged vessels. The dock and barges were restored by the Fine Arts Department in 1949 as part of the Thai cultural heritage preservation. The first procession after the

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ART & CULTURE | Museum Spotlight

restoration took place in 1959 to present Royal Kathin robes to monks. During the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej which spanned over seven decades, the procession occurred 16 times. All processions brought out an immense crowd to both banks of the river. Today, the Royal Barge Procession comprises of 52 barges: 51 historical barges and one Royal Barge, the Narai Song Suban, which was ordered by the late King Rama IX in 1994. It is the only barge built during His Majestyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reign, which takes up to 2,802 oarsmen to row the barges in the procession. The Royal Barge Procession proceeds down the Chao Phraya River from the Wasukri Royal Landing Place in Dusit District, passes the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and arrives at Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn).

The Royal Barges Museum Today, the museum is under the care of the Royal Thai Navy and the Royal Household. In 1972, the dock became the National Museum of Royal Barges after the repairs were completed. Once arrived, visitors are required to pay for the admission fee and camera permit. Stepping inside, each wall of the building is lined with photographs and illustrations, preserved original decoration pieces, remains of previous vessels and pictures of past processions. One can also read the operating techniques for the barges.

Getting There

There are two ways to reach the museum. One is by boat. Take the Express Boat service on Chao Phraya River to Pinklao Bridge Pier and then make your way through a maze-like winding walkway following the periodic signs along the path. Or take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Wang Lang Pier, which is a short walk to the museum. One can also hire a longtail boat tour to visit the museum. Another way is by car. Take the Arun Amarin road and look for a small Navy Station under the Arun Amarin bridge. Request for a parking space at the gate and the officer will direct you. The Royal Barge Museum is in the back of the station. 44 | MAR /APR 2020

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Museum Spotlight | ART & CULTURE

The museum houses eight principal vessels from 52 barges for the procession. Each vessel is exquisitely carved from teak wood with engraved prows and beautifully gilded mythical creatures as figureheads. Each barge has a specific figurehead and name. Royal Barge Narai Song Suban (Rama IX), with Vishnu God mounted on a garuda holding Nagas as a figurehead, requires 50 oarsmen and 2 steersmen. Anechatbhuchong, adorned with a pattern of small nagas gilded with colourful glass pieces, requires 60 oarsmen and 2 steersmen. Royal Barge Anantanagaraj, boasting seven-headed nagas decorated with gold lacquer and glass ornaments, requires 54 oarsmen and 2 steersmen. Ekachai Hern How Barge, featuring Naga-headed dragons on the prow, requires 38 oarsmen and 2 steersmen. The smaller Krabi Prab Muang Marn, showcasing a white monkey Hanuman in a gold finish and glass as a figurehead, requires 36 oarsmen and 2 steersmen. Asura Vayuphak Barge with an ogre-faced bird as a figurehead requires 30 oarsmen and 2 steersmen. Krut Hern Het Barge comes with a garuda clutching a naga on the prow, requires 34 oarsmen and 2 steersmen. Among them, the most elaborate and significant is the Royal Barge Supannahong, a majestic 50-metre long barge carved from a single piece of teak wood with a golden swan as the figurehead. It is considered the King’s barge, which requires 50 specially trained oarsmen and 14 additional crew members to operate.

Admission Fee

Admission to the museum is B100 Baht per person. If you want to take pictures, there’s an additional fee of B100 for a camera (whether it’s a proper camera or mobile phone camera) or B200 for a video recorder. This fund goes to the restoration and maintenance of the vessels and the museum facilities.

The National Museum of Royal Barges 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd Open daily: 9am-5pm Tel: 02 424 0004

Note: The barges might not be in the museum during the preparation for the special ceremonies. bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | Cultural Heritage

Bank of Thailand Museum A curious historical discovery awaits by Luc Citrinot

ne of the most intriguing royal structures in Bangkok is mansions of the Bank of Thailand. The grand villas in Bang Lamphu District face the Chao Phraya River. King Rama V built the Bang Khun Phrom Palace to serve as a residence of Prince Paribatra Sukhumband. The structure has a unique blend of multiple European styles. Tamnak Yai, designed in 1906 by Italian Mario Tamagno, is reminiscence that of baroque, rococo and classical European styles with its large windows underlined by elegant stuccos. Tamnak Yai offers an extravagant interior with its stucco ceilings, velvet curtains, frescos painted by Carlo Rigoli. The main showpiece of the palace is a grand staircase reminding one of the palaces in Austria or South Germany with its marbled stairs. 46 | MAR /APR 2020

Tamnak Somdej is a mansion in a completely different style, a masterpiece of a German architect, Karl Döhring. He was famous for Jugendstil style in Germany between 1890 and 1910. The residence has a vast symmetrical façade. Prince Paribatra offered the palace to his mother, Queen Sukhumala Marasri, in 1913 as her residence. The third palace was a commemoration on the occasion of the marriage of Prince Paribatra and Princess Prasongsom Chaiyant in 1903. It was later dismantled and rebuilt inside Vimanmek Mansion complex. Devavesm Palace, built by a British Architech, Edward Healey, served as the residence of King Rama V’s younger brother, Prince Devawongvarophakarn. It features neoclassical façade with magnificent Greek columns

and is not always open to the public. Since 1945, Khun Phrom Palace hosts the headquarters of the Bank of Thailand. The museum was inaugurated in 1993 by the late King Rama IX. Visitors will find ancient Chinese coins, Siam first currencies made of seashells or ‘Bia,' currencies used in the Dvaravati and Srivijaya kingdoms and first modern coins and notes. There are rooms dedicated to Prince Paribatra Sukhumband, including apartments and musical activities.

Bank of Thailand Museum

273 Samsen Rd (next to King Rama VIII Bridge) Tel: 02 283 5286, 02 283 6152, 02 283 6723 Email: museum@bot.or.th Open: Tue-Sun 10am-4pm, close on Monday and public holidays bangkok101.com

Special Report | ART & CULTURE

Galleries’ Night lays bare the artsy side of Bangkok One hop away from your next art exposure by Fha Kanch

ne of the biggest and not-to-be-missed annual art events in Bangkok is, without a doubt, Galleries’ Night. For the record, it convenes more than 70 art galleries and at least 250 artists to introduce special exhibitions and installations to the public, free admission. For two nights straight from 5pm until midnight, the signature free tuk tuk rides remain up for grabs. Taking the BTS SkyTrain, taxi and walking may be convenient, but about 80 dedicated tuk-tuks can also take the passenger(s) to a few galleries in a particular area before returning to the original stop. The use of tuk tuk as means of transportation emphasises on Thainess and locality. Galleries’ Night concept is a clash between timeless cultural elements and new emerging recognition of contemporary art. It also enables bangkok101.com

great collaborations among international and local individuals in the fields of art, culture, media and foreign affairs. Despite the current air pollution known as PM 2.5, hot and humid weather, heavy evening traffic and risk of contagion, Galleries’ Night 2020 takes precaution to expose as many of Bangkok’s art destinations as possible within two nights. This is a chance to get close to the people behind each gallery name as well as creators of up-andcoming masterpieces and even engage in curiously interesting conversations with the industry key players who are present throughout the night. Night owls, art enthusiasts and serious collectors are invited to roam the city streets and go art gallery hopping while learning and exploring the local contemporary art scene in different

neighbourhoods proliferated with old and new art spaces. In addition, 80 volunteers are standing by at different locations to provide visitors with further details and in-depth information as well as answer any relevant questions. During the event, directions are available for independent hoppers both via printed maps distributed at each point of attraction in the neighbourhoods with free mobile app to download for both iOS and Android. Galleries’ Night 2020 is hosted by La Fête, Embassy of France in Bangkok and Alliance Française Bangkok. See the shared content of this year's event and stay tuned to next year’s edition. www.facebook.com/galleriesnight www.french-highlights.com MAR /APR 2020 | 47

Chazilla series by Shin Koyama

Art & Culture

Photo Feature

INDIGO MONSTERS RETURN a group ceramic exhibition February 14-April 10 by Vipoo Srivilasa Shin Koyama Pepijn van den Nieuwendijk The three international artists first met in Jingdezhen, China, the capital city of blue and white porcelain where they collaborated to celebrate their shared passion for porcelain and the colours of white and blue. The first Indigo Monsters project first debuted in La Lanta Fine Art, Bangkok in 2012. Due to the strong traditional and local connotations and a powerful global contemporary resonance, monsters are chosen as the subject and presented in indigo colour. In contrast to the previous edition, this time the artists use porcelain with native clay from Australia, Japan, and the Netherlands as a medium instead of watercolour and ink on paper. Indigo Monsters Return explores ways to exchange ideas among the three distinctive cultures by revitalising some historical connections. It also responds to the ongoing seismic power shift from the West to the East and acts as a model to address the emerging economic, cultural and environmental monsters. La Lanta Fine Art 3F Unit B, N22 Art Warehouse 2198/10-11 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 22 Rd Tel: 02 050 7882 www.lalanta.com

"Friends Are Like Flowers. They Fill The World With Beauty" and "My Best Friend Is the One Who Brings Out The Best Blue In Me" by Vipoo Srivilasa

Le Blue de Caraque series (Elephant Seamonster) and Turtle Squirtle by Pepijn van den Nieuwendijk

ART & CULTURE | Exhibitions

Until Mar 15 ANCESTRAL FACADE

S.A.C. Subhashok The Arts Centre Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 | Tel: 02 662 0299 Open: Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6pm www.facebook.com/sacbangkok The creations from this collection by Songwoot Kaewvisit were inspired by nostalgia, warm touches from family and simplified daily practices in childhood interwoven in this nostalgic recall so hard to truncate. All of these are considered to be great motivations for Kaewvisit in delivering one of the best art piece series of his life which marks that the wanderer is back to his hometown once more and be able to retrace the route of his Chinese ancestry.

Until Mar 25 NAKED BEAUTY

Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) 499 Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd | Tel: 02 016 5666-7 Open: Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | www.mocabangkok.com Sylvie Blum’s Photography exhibition of 300 images is the very first of its kind in Thailand, including 100 original prints from her Naked Beauty Series, her world famous "Big Cat Series" and her "Animal Series” as well as 200 Polaroid images showing her very own diary over the past 20 Years. Her strong connection to the human form is visualised in a timeless context. Every single image is a witness of her knowledge of the photographic process and endless possibilities.

Until Mar 28 NEW AND RECENT PAINTINGS BY GALLERY ARTISTS

H Gallery 201 Sathorn Soi 12 | Tel: 085 021 5508 | Open: Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Tue by appointment | www.hgallerybkk.com The exhibition stars paintings by some of SE Asia’s most prominent artists and addressed the themes of social, religious and political commentary. Artists included are: Jakkai Siributr; Mit Jai Inn, Sawangwongse Yawnghwe; Somboon Hormtientong; and Sopheap Pich.

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Exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

Until Mar 29 EXAGGERATE

Green Lantern Gallery 1045 Sukhumvit Soi 55 | Tel: 080 994 6683 | Open daily: 1pm-10pm | www.greenlanterngallery.business.site This solo photography exhibition by Pongtawat Paeungchaitananont opens on 22 February. He is interested in painting and photography especially of the human body as a subject. Like a unique canvas, each body has its own textures, lines and curves to convey the story. Body painting and tattooing are beautiful and valuable for the owner, however, they sometimes make others jump to conclusions. The artist finds some answers to his belief through his camera lens.

Until Mar 29 A CITY AGLOW

Serindia Gallery 1-2F O.P. Garden, Unit 3101, 3201 4, 6 Charoen Krung Soi 36 | Tel: 02 238 6410 | Open: Tue-Sun 11am-7pm www.serindiagallery.com A City Aglow is a warm, dizzying, up-close and overwhelming portrait of Bangkok. Japanese streetphotographer Shunji Dodo photographed Thailand’s capital city during numerous visits between the mid-1980s and 2019. Dodo became fascinated by Bangkok and the warmth, liveliness and ingenuity of its residents. Focusing on a single city, Dodo’s exhibition provides an encompassing, unweary look at life’s universal force to continue, no matter the circumstances.

Until Mar 31 INVENTORUM NATURA A JOURNEY IN A MAGIC GARDEN

Ananta Kama Yen Akat Soi 1 | Tel: 086 633 0300 Open daily: 11am-9pm | www.ananta-kama.com Share a glimpse of the marvels of Southern Thailand. Through the works of Thai artist, Abdhulhakim Yusof, a fantastic flora and a blooming paradise captured during his promenades around his hometown will be discovered. Looking at his drawings evokes the same feeling as discovering the sketchbook of an artist in the Italian Renaissance. bangkok101.com

MAR /APR 2020 | 53

Alaskan King Crab | Mango | Saffron Moringa | FumĂŠt at Nadodi pop-up at Banyan Tree

AROY

(means tasty)

The St. Regis Bangkok bids farewell to Jojo and welcomes IGNIV from Zürich Many regulars might miss the Italian fare at Jojo, especially the burrata salad, the sauce-filled homemade pasta and the hot melted cheese stuffed pizza bread not to mention the imported hazelnut chocolate in giant Toblerone shape with rich vanilla sauce. But it’s time for a new chapter. After the success of The Peak pop-up dinners by Europe’s youngest Michelin three-star Chef Andreas Caminada and owner of Schloss Schauenstein, one of his fine dining restaurants from Switzerland will be relocated to The St. Regis Bangkok where Jojo used to be. At IGNIV, guests can expect fresh and light modern delicacies overseen by Head Chef David Hartwig who has also gained numerous Michelin starred experiences. www.stregisbangkok.com

Mad Face Food Festival 2020 returns with the Last Meal On Earth theme For three days from 13-15 March 2020, the annual Mad Face Food Week is back so get your wacky, first date-ruining face ready to eat. About 50 up-and-coming food vendors around the city are gathering at Sermsuk Warehouse to serve new menus as if they were their last supper. The list of stalls isn’t created by being the best in Bangkok’s dining scene but by characters, community and mouth watering food. Pay B100 to get one drink from 3pm until 12am. www.madfacefoodweek.com

Nadodi’s Engaging Nomadic Pop-Up at Banyan Tree Bangkok Nadodi modern Indian fine dining restaurant from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and Vertigo TOO are having a crossover pop-up dinner on 13-14 March 2020. Head Chef Sricharan ‘Sri’ Venkatesh reinvents familiar Southern Indian flavours found in Malaysia and Singapore in a 9-course tasting menu of Nomadic cuisine (B4,900++ per person). Nadodi ranks among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Seating is limited. www.banyantree.com www.nadodikl.com

FOOD & DRINK | Kitchen Backstories

Rice: The unsung hero

he three of them lie side by side, beneath the dim light of a flickering bulb, somewhere in Bangkok. Each has journeyed hundreds of miles to be here, from distant provinces across the country. The smallest has a petite, but round, figure, with a firm, pearly white complexion; the middle one is tall, slender and tan; the largest, thick and heavyset, with unevenly dark skin. The unsteady illumination issues forth from the table lamp–and the subjects of this insomniac examination are individual grains of Thai rice of different types: bue poh loh, a small-grained white rice from the higher altitudes of Chiang Mai; paka umpul, a brown rice indigenous to the northeastern province of Surin; and kam noi, a purple glutinous rice from neighbouring Sakon Nakhon. All share a common ancestor, oryza sativa japonica (said to have been first domesticated in the Yangtze River basin around 9,500 BCE), but–much like wine grapes–each have their own distinct appearances and characters, borne from uniquely different terroirs in the land they now call home. I’d met with Richa Tantisirivat of Hatch Goodies, a purveyor of specialty Thai rices. In between our comparisons of the carnaroli rice grains in our risotto with bue poh loh, she shared with me that Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. She believes that food offers much more than just means of sustenance, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods

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it’s this rich diversity of Thai rice varieties that she deeply wanted to surface and share with the world– and not least with Thai people themselves. “For Thai people, rice is much more than just a staple food; it’s fundamental to our culture,” she remarked. “We eat it up to 3 times daily, and even instinctively greet each other by asking if we’ve eaten rice yet (‘kin khao yang’). And while we Thais love all kinds of food, rice reigns supreme; in fact, we have a saying that ‘if the rice isn’t delicious, even the tastiest gab (accompaniment) will fail to satisfy.” She went on to lament, however, that most know very little about Thailand’s rich rice heritage. The decline in production–and awarenessof heirloom rice varieties is widely attributed to advent of the Green Revolution of the 1950s and 60s–the large increase in crop production in Thailand and other developing countries through the use of fertilisers, pesticides, and high-yield crop varieties. The well-known Jasmine variety is a relatively new invention, having only been created in 1959. Thai rice and its cultivation date back to as early as 3,000 BC–and, since then, over 20,000 varieties have been documented in Thailand alone, with around 3,500 being actively grown. Many rely on rapidly decaying local wisdom to cultivate well. Each has its own unique aroma, texture and taste when cooked. “Rice is truly the unsung hero of our culture and society–and I want to change that,” Richa resolved. “The best way to preserve heirloom varieties is to grow them-and the best way to ensure they are grown is to eat them,” she advised. “I truly believe that our joy of eating can create real, positive change.” bangkok101.com

Eat Like Nym | FOOD & DRINK

Hidden Chinese Herbal Soup in the old park

angkok is undergoing major gentrification of late. It has crept across the lesser-known Thonburi side where older communities and more authentic lifestyle thrive. Suan Somdej Ya community by the memorial bridge on the Thonburi side was once vibrant and active. But it fell into decline as roads replaced rivers and canals. Until recently, the largely forgotten neighbourhood has changed as river life is booming again. I just returned here for a creative event which provided me with an opportunity to reconnect with this hidden gem. The alleyway in front of the park’s entrance leads to the community where a street food cart operated by a lovely old couple is located. They make ‘Guay Jab’, fresh rice noodles in a dark aromatic Chinese herbal soup. People crowd around waiting patiently for their bowl of guay jab. The ‘operation of deliciousness’ starts around 4pm when the sun has softened and parents take their kids home. Guay jab is a unique herbal soup. The noodles are thicker but soft and full of creamy rice flavour. Normally, the soup is dark in colour seasoned with five spices. There are a lot of goodies in the soup. Pork is always the mainstay: boiled pork, sliced pork Nym, as our roving roadside gourmand, she knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. IG: nymster bangkok101.com

skin, pork liver, crispy pork and pig blood with juicy tofu and hard-boiled egg to add breadth and depth to this delicious noodle soup. Grandma measures the noodles into each bowl then slowly selects cuts of meat, laying them carefully on top of the noodles. Then she pours the aromatic soup into the bowls before handing them to the hungry customers. When my bowl arrives, I catch the aroma of star anise, cinnamon and other Chinese herbs. I taste the soup which is perfect without further seasoning except for a pinch of roasted chilli. People around me wait to see the expression on my face, I smile and nod my head in satisfaction. They smile back with pride as if it was their food! As I devour the dish, the grandma keeps on preparing and serving, and never pausing even for a moment. Before I finish my second bowl, she announces to newcomers, ‘today it is finished’ and invites them to return tomorrow. I’m happy I didn’t miss my chance, though I do feel a pang of guilt at the privilege of having two bowls. Beyond the wonderful guay jab is the feeling of being here, being embraced by the community. I realise that it is not only the authentic flavours that I love but also a sense of being in the ‘real Bangkok’. The world that still exists in spite of modernisation and development that has transformed so much of my city.

Address: Guay Jab Suan Somdej Ya is at the entrance of the park. Opens Monday to Friday, around 4 pm-7pm. MAR /APR 2020 | 57

FOOD & DRINK | Bitchin’ in the Kitchen

Roses are Red, Violets are Blue, Where the Hell Are You?

n the last episode of Bitchin’ in the Kitchen, we already covered the New Year’s aftermath. But rarely discussed is the aftermath of St. Valentine’s Day, a day highly anticipated by many overzealous lovers yet a nightmare for some, namely restaurant business owners, F&B managers and chefs. We asked Saki Hoshino, chef and partner at 80/20 Bangkok, Nicola Bonazza owner of Enoteca Bangkok (Michelin Plate) and Thitid Tassanakajohn (Chef Ton) of Le Du about their professional Samantha Proyrungtong, and Australianborne entrepreneur with Thai roots, founder of Bangkokfoodies.com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community who has become a well-known voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. FB: BangkokFoodiesThailand, IG: BangkokFoodies 58 | MAR /APR 2020

experiences with overbooking, no-shows and how they combatted the challenges. We even discovered how the Valentine’s Day booking debacles have influenced major changes in booking systems in the restaurant industry. Please give me an example of a nightmare booking or no-show for Valentine’s Day that you’ve experienced in the past. Nicola: Luckily, it’s been a long time. I haven’t had any experience as bad with no-shows, but yes, of course, every year there is a certain amount of them. But actually, cancellations and no-shows are becoming more and more annoying on a normal day. Valentine’s Day, however, is especially risky! Saki: Two years ago, before we renovated the restaurant, we were fully booked on Valentine’s Day, bangkok101.com

Bitchin’ in the Kitchen | FOOD & DRINK

Nicola Bonazza

Saki Hoshino

but on the day almost half of the bookings didn’t show up. Fortunately, we got some walk-in guests but we were not happy with the situation. Most of the guests didn’t call for no-show, too. It sucks not just for us but for the team because we prepared the special menu according to the bookings. Ton: A while ago on Valentine’s Day, we reconfirmed the reservation at 4pm, still they didn’t come after being a half-hour late of their reservation, we called them again. The lady just said, “Oops! Sorry, we are in the other restaurant already. We forgot to call you…” What have you done to combat Valentine’s Day booking or no-show issues, if at all? Nicola: What I do is a reservation through the webpage or on Facebook. I have an automatic system that asks for a deposit of B500 per person. Plus, on this, I go into overbooking. So, I take more booking counting on the fact that some of them will not show. Saki: Valentine’s Day or normal days, we started taking credit card guarantee since we reopened. We offer a tasting course meal, order ingredients and prepare everything fresh according to the number of reservations. Not only is it hard work, but it’s also about the wasted ingredients, too. Food waste happens based on no-shows especially in fine dining. Ton: Now we use a credit card guarantee system. No more phone bookings! bangkok101.com

Thitid ‘Ton” Tassanakajohn

How have the changes to booking systems improved your situation and how have some people reacted to the new system? Nicola: The situation improved, yes. Many who try to book via the webpage and discover that they have to pay B500 of deposit, don’t book. The majority of those are from overseas. Saki: We know some guests don’t want to put credit card guarantee or deposit but it’s fair for restaurants to do so to avoid issues like food waste and be willing to give seats to other guests who really want to come to dine. Otherwise, we just pray that all the guests will show up every day. Ton: It helps a lot. 95% better! For real! Did you learn anything from that nightmare Valentine’s Day no-show experience? Nicola: We learned to be prepared, for all cases of bookings. Saki: The situation on Valentine’s Day two years ago made us think of the solutions for no-shows for sure. But no-show applies to normal service days, too. I think many restaurants are having the same problems. Ton: This sh*t will not happen again! (laughing out loud) What about your Valentine’s? MAR /APR 2020 | 59

FOOD & DRINK | Review

Bangkok’s Brooklyn by Dr Jesda M Tivayanond

hen a successful American corporate executive decides to follow his dreams to do something he loves and opens an authentic New York style pizza parlour in Bangkok, and within a year it becomes one of the best pizzerias in this region, you would think this is a premise for another Woody Allen movie. Well, it should be. Jonathan Spearman and his wife Celina arrived in Bangkok just over two years ago. Before, he was running a luxury leather

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goods brand from Hong Kong and Celina was a practising Chinese medicine doctor. They were living the high-flying global executive life with their beautiful young daughter, Isabella or ‘Mazzie’. But soon after, a quieter and more relaxing lifestyle came calling, and here is where this quirky Woody Allen-esqe storyline of Brooklyn in Bangkok begins. Jonathan or Jon has always loved the science and art of food, especially cuisine based on a rich history and premised on using only the best ingredients and

always made fresh. He grew up in Brooklyn NY, capital of Italian Americanisms, and in particular, the iconic neighbourhood pizzeria that is loved and trusted as the local hangout – a place where you get reliable and great food with a cool and comfortable ambiance. And this is what he has created with Pizzeria Mazzie. So, how did it become Bangkok’s hottest pizzeria within such a short time? Obviously, it’s the food. While there is no such thing as bangkok101.com

Review | FOOD & DRINK

‘diet pizza’ this thing comes pretty close. It was while growing up in Brooklyn where Jon absorbed the dough making and pizza baking skills from NY’s finest master bakers. Jon doesn’t use yeast in his dough, which is made fresh daily. It’s naturally leavened dough, based only on flour, water and salt (no additives or preservatives). So it’s light and tangy. Think the dough version of Wagyu beef–so light it melts in your mouth. The menu is only one page, but everything is done really well-from the two ranges of pizza (one type has tomato sauce as a base, the other type has a selection of cheeses), the light and flavourful salads, other zesty Brooklyn starters, to the unique selection of interesting wines and bottled craft beers. But it’s also the real feel of the NY neighbourhood pizzeria that Jon and Celina have perfected here. Both are there every day to ‘catch up’ with the bangkok101.com

people, keeping it casual and cosy. Then there’s Miles Davis and John Coltrane playing in the background, sometimes even Pavarotti to bring on the global village setting, hence that unique ‘Brooklyn in Bangkok’ vibe. The best seats are the leather stools at the bar, where you can see Jon work. He makes the pizza on the custom-made oak wood prep area and is always happy to tell you about each carefully selected item. (Ask him for a sniff of the fresh Sicilian oregano if you get a chance–makes you think of a food scene in one of The Godfather movies.) He uses the wood fire Acunto oven made by a Napoletan family oven baker, and the pizza cooks perfectly in under two minutes. The common reaction from customers upon the first bite is that muted hidden smile expressing the much anticipated “so light, so good, so balanced” feeling.

Pizzeria Mazzie is cosy in feeling and in size. It’s not big (only 30 seats) and Jon is looking to expand as soon as he can. While the place does get famously busy from Fri-Sun, the other weekdays are good times to go. Pizzeria Mazzie is about honest and good food, which reflects Jon and Celina’s creed to doing something they both love and enjoy. They have brought the unique sense of a local Brooklyn pizzeria to Bangkok and to that, we can aptly say “jeet yet?’… which in NY lingo means: “did you eat yet?”

Pizzeria Mazzie 18 Ekamai Park Lane Mall Sukhumvit Soi 63 Open daily: 5:30pm-10:30pm; Sat-Sun open for lunch 12pm-2:30pm. Closes on Mon Tel: 02 060 8822 www.pizzeriamazzie.com MAR /APR 2020 | 61

FOOD & DRINK | Review

Thiptara Thai Restaurant A Thai home-style dining experience like no other by the River of Kings by Morgan JT

nder the cooling shade of a majestic banyan tree in the lush foliage of The Peninsula Bangkok is Thiptara restaurant. The word, ‘Thiptara,’ meaning ‘heaven on water,’ refers to a blessed location where all worries disappear. The restaurant offers traditional Thai charms with friendly and personal services. Diners who order items from the ‘Thiptara Tid Lor’ menus can witness live cooking actions at their dining table. First up was Miang Kham (B360). The bite-sized betel 62 | MAR /APR 2020

leaf-wrapped appetiser is a combination of roasted peanuts, crispy roasted coconut matches, dried shrimp, diced shallots, ginger and unpeeled lime cubes with a thick and savoury blend of sweet-sour, salty palm sugar and tamarind sauce. They are packed full of flavours, richness, textures and aromas. The ‘Tid Lor’ experience began with Yum Som-O Goong Phao (B620). A serving of organic pomelo from Nakhon Chaisri province with a sweet, sour and savoury dressing made from a combination of palm sugar, fish sauce, tamarind juice, coconut

cream and roasted chilli paste. The menu is served in a half coconut roasted and topped with succulent large grilled then torched river prawns for an additional kick. An order of Yum Nua Yang (B1,250) followed. Fresh romaine lettuce, tomatoes and mint in the spicy and sour yum dressing accompanied the beautifully grilled medium-well Wagyu striploin meat. Guests can choose the meat marbling from M5 (B880), M7(B1,250) to M9 (B1,700) on the menu. The Chu Chee Lobster (B1,920) arrived. The grilled giant Boston Lobster meat is added to a rich and creamy red curry which contains a paste of diced peppers, red chillies, chopped garlic, shallots and shrimp paste heated and mixed well with fresh coconut milk. The meal concluded with Khaoniew Mamuang or the mango sticky rice (B380). It was served inside a young coconut with thick coconut cream on the side. The thinly sliced ripe and sweet mango is formed into a flower and laid on top of sticky rice. Guests can also order the ‘Tid Lor’ menu a la carte, without the live cooking demonstration from the chefs, to enjoy along with other items available at Thiptara restaurant.

Thiptara Thai Restaurant The Peninsula Bangkok 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd Tel: 02 020 2888 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.peninsula.com/en/bangkok bangkok101.com

Review | FOOD & DRINK

Saffron Cruise

A project that sets a new standard for Chao Phraya riverboat cruises by Fha Kanch

f you are Thai or have been living in Bangkok for quite some time, the idea of Chao Phraya river cruises might give you a touristy impression or might be associated with loud parties and disco lights throughout the night. Well, it is a different story on Banyan Tree’s Saffron Cruise. On this riverboat cruise, you get to drink and dine peacefully while five-star service is proffered. It adds a change of scenery and traditional Thai entertainment to the hotel’s internationallyacclaimed Thai restaurant, Saffron, as well as the rooftop bar, Vertigo and Moon Bar. Two options of cruising are available: one is the daily sunset cruise inclusive of one drink at the Moon Deck (B550 net per person) which takes you past the iconic riverside landmarks and under the bridges during golden hour. There are two embarkation time slots: 5pm at Asiatique (disembarked at 6pm) and 5:30pm ICONSIAM Pier (disembarked at 6:45pm). The other is the daily dinner cruise inclusive of a five-course set Thai menu with one cocktail at Moon Deck (B3,200 net per person) which takes you on a slower, more elaborate nightlights tour. Passengers embark around 7pm from ICONSIAM Pier (disembarked before 10pm) with a complimentary return van transfers hotel-pier-hotel, leaving the hotel lobby at 5:30pm. Apart from the elegant and spacious design, Saffron cruise dining room serves Thai cuisine with some twist based on Chef Renu Homsombat’s award-winning set menu. It changes every few months so returning guests can bangkok101.com

always expect something new. The meal begins with Steamed Thai Dumpling Stuffed with Flower, Chicken, Water Chestnut, Cashew Nut, and Sweet Chili Sauce on the same plate as Fresh Summer Crab Meat Rolls, Mango Salsa, Peanut, and Chili Dips. Then Spicy Duck Salad: Crispy Sticky Rice, String Bean, Cucumber and Mint Salad is served in no time; all dishes are prepared and cooked in the kitchen on board. Up next, Traditional Spicy Prawn Soup with Lemongrass and Galangal mirrors a lobster bisque presentation. The first main course is Grilled Salmon Fillet, Egg Noodle in Chiang Mai Curry Sauce in which the salmon fillet has a slightly undercooked centre. The final

main is Southern Style Braised Beef Massaman Curry, Lotus Seed, Pickled Vegetables and the signature aromatic Saffron Rice. The meat can be customised in case of dietary restrictions. For desserts, Taro Dumpling in Light Sweet Coconut Milk and Pandan Ice Cream is selected alongside the essential Mango Sticky Rice with Mung Bean Puff Young Coconut.

Saffron Cruise by Banyan Tree Chao Phraya River 21/100 South Sathorn Rd Open: Sunset Cocktail Cruise 5pm-6pm, Dinner Cruise 6:45pm-9:15pm Tel: 02 679 1200 www.banyantree.com MAR /APR 2020 | 63

FOOD & DRINK | Review

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin A new gastronomic journey at Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok by Morgan JT

his venue needs no lengthy introduction. Known as one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2014 and 2015, it received a Michelin one-star award in Michelin Guide 2020 earlier this year. And recently, Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin has unveiled a new four-course ‘Mini-Journey’ set lunch. While the full eight-course journey can still be enjoyed for dinner, the restaurant picked out some of the all-time favourites which inspired the set lunch. The gastronomic journey started with interpretations of Thai street food dishes. They included bite-sized options such as Lobster Bisque Martini, Soya Meringue with Cashew Nut, Wasabi Yoghurt, Green Curry Cornetto and Miang Kham to name a few. Then the main courses commenced. First up was Spicy Cucumber Salad, Crispy Seabass

64 | MAR /APR 2020

with Cotton Candy which was very refreshing. The cotton candy melted away when the spicy-sour and aromatic sauce was poured on top. The menu came with Bioweingut Zillinger 2017 from Austria. Next, Maine Lobster Salad with Frozen Red Curry arrived full of colours, flavours and beautiful textures in every bite. The course was presented in Sra Bua’s grand style with dry ice poured into the hollowedout bowl at the table to great effect. This is definitely a must-try signature, especially when accompanied by a glass of Gramona Gessamí, Sauvignon Blanc from Spain. The Slow Cooked Wagyu Beef with Homemade Oyster Sauce followed. The oyster sauce perfectly complemented the meat. It is done in Chef Henrik’s style after having tested and experimented with a multitude

of fresh ingredients to find the perfect combination. This course was coupled with a glass of Montepeloso from Tuscany, Italy 2015 which yielded a great result. The dessert was the soothing and aromatic Banana Cake with Salted Ice Cream and Caramelised Milk–nostalgia on a wooden plate. A glass of Massolino Moscato D’Asti DOCG 2017 concluded the journey. The ‘Mini-Journey’ set lunch is priced at B1,850++ per person and B1,200++ for wine pairings. The set lunch menu is available daily from 12pm-3pm; last order at 2:30pm.

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin Siam Kempinski Bangkok Hotel 991/9 Rama I Rd Tel: 02 162 9000 Open daily: from 12pm-3pm for lunch, 6pm-12am for dinner www.srabuabykiinkiin.com bangkok101.com

Review | FOOD & DRINK

Decanter

Decanter is All Thai’d Up at The St. Regis Bangkok

by Fha Kanch

here is a hidden Thai dining room at The St. Regis Bangkok. Hidden in plain sight as not many people know or have heard about it. On the 12th floor of the hotel, Decanter carries an extensive wine list from Old World to New World in terms of vintages and producers alongside whiskies served in handcrafted glassware. The lounge is suitable for any exclusive gathering and sometimes hosts pop-up culinary events. The dress code is smart casual and appointments are recommended although walk-ins are welcome. In August 2019, Decanter began to serve Thai cuisine for lunch from 12pm to 3pm and dinner from 6pm to 10:30pm daily. The ambience doesn’t bear any resemblance to a Thai restaurant, but it aims to celebrate original Thai recipes and a rustic gastronomic journey in an upscale setting. bangkok101.com

The dishes can be shared in family style with rice or enjoyed individually. They arrive in large portions which partly explains the prices on the menu. The flavours of food served here are also more robust than those from the buffet line at Viu or from the in room service–according to the Chef. Chef Kesinee ‘Kaew’ Damrongsakul is the Executive Sous Chef who oversees all the restaurants at The St. Regis Bangkok. She studied Food Science and has gained experience working in the kitchens of numerous Michelin starred restaurants and five-star hotels around the world such as Tom Aikens in London. The first All Thai’d Up highlight is Yum Som-O (B550). It contains fleshy Grilled Tiger Prawns, Toasted Coconut and Fried Shallots. The next most ordered dish is Pla Tord Sarm Rod (B750). It mainly consists of Crispy

Fried Whole Sea Bass laid down vertically on the plate covered in Three Flavoured Sauce and topped with crispy Lime Leaves on a bed of Bean Sprouts. The last popular dish is Khao Soi Gai (B650) or Northern Chicken and Egg Noodle Curry that comes with at least two cuts of chicken. At the end of the meal, diners can ask for the off-menu desserts of the day. Classic items are Mango Sticky Rice, Thai Tea Panna Cotta and Fried Bananas in Sugar Coating. The thick Thai Tea Panna Cotta is surprisingly and pleasantly not very sweet. It is topped with fresh milk and Chao Guay Thai Grass Jelly.

Decanter 12F St. Regis Hotel, 159 Rajadamri Rd Tel: 02 207 7829 Open daily: 5pm-11:59pm fb.bangkok@stregis.com MAR /APR 2020 | 65

FOOD & DRINK | Meal Deals

Thai style afternoon tea at Metro On Wireless Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Witthayu Rd Tel: 02 207 4999 | www.hotelindigo.com The afternoon tea tradition continues every day from 2:30pm to 4:30pm where free-flow tea or coffee is served with a light supper. Hotel Indigo Bangkok has crafted two menus for sharing: one featuring traditional Thai flavours for B609++ for two persons and the other presenting modern Thai flair for B709++.

Sunday brunch at UNO MAS Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999 99 Rama I Rd Tel: 02 100 6255 | www.centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand/cgcw The series of Fabuloso brunches is held on every first Sunday of the month from 11:30am to 2:30pm at an all-inclusive price of B3,555++ per person. Other than free-flow pours of Magnum G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge and soft drinks, it gives diners unlimited access to the premium imported delicacies from Spain, signature Spanish cooked-to-order dishes, tapas, etc. Seafood such as four kinds of fresh oysters, jumbo prawns and lobster are also on offer.

Friday Seafood Buffet at Twenty Seven Bites Brasserie Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok, 489 Sukhumvit Rd Tel: 02 302 3333 | www.facebook.com/radissonbluplazabangkok Priced at B1,800++ per person inclusive of soft drinks, tea, coffee, cocktail and beer, the international feast highlights fresh seafood on ice and live cooking stations such as 200-gram River prawns, oysters, NZ Mussels and Kani Miso Crab. The long line of French brasserie-style counters are set every Friday for dinner, 6:30pm to 10:30pm.

Extravagant Buffet at Cuisine Unplugged Pullman Bangkok King Power, 8-2 Soi Rang Nam Tel: 02 680 9999 | www.pullmanbangkokkingpower.com The buffet extends from lunch and dinner to Sunday brunch with a focus on live cooking stations and Royal Projects ingredients. The International Lunch Buffet is priced at B1,150 net per person and opens from Monday to Saturday at 11:30am-2:30pm. The Seafood & BBQ Dinner Buffet is priced at B1,699 net per person and opens every day at 11:30am2:30pm. Lastly, Sunday Brunch is priced at B2,020 net per person including free-flow beverages at 12pm-3pm.

Spring Sakura Afternoon Tea at Up & Above Bar The Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Wireless Rd Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com Just in time for Spring, Executive Pastry Chef Sebastiaan Hoogewerf and his team are creating sweet and savoury delights drawing inspiration from Japanese cherry blossoms. Priced at B1,400++ and inclusive of illy coffee, premium Mariage FrĂ¨res or Saro tea, the set for two is available from 1 April until 30 June 2020 from 2pm to 5pm.

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FOOD & DRINK | Listings

Chinese

Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers highquality ingredients you can really savour. 59F Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.banyantree.com

China Table

A stylish Chinese restaurant with a tempting choice of signature dishes and one of the best dim sum lunches in Bangkok. 3F Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am3:30pm www.radissonblu.com/plazahotelbangkok

Liu

A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes. 3F Conrad Bangkok, 87 Wireless Rd Tel: 02 690 9999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

Pagoda Chinese Restaurant

This upscale venue serves traditional Cantonese cuisine in a spacious and contemporary setting. The menu focuses on healthy dishes, 68 | MAR /APR 2020

while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. It’s well worth a visit. 4F Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10pm bangkokmarriottmarquisqueenspark.com

reputation as a top local culinary destination. 11F VIE Hotel Bangkok Phaya Thai Rd Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm; Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

Xin Tian Di

The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but also for its dim sum, set lunches and à la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok. 22F Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, 952 Rama IV Rd Tel: 02 632 9000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun 11am-2:30pm bangkoklumpinipark.crowneplaza.com

Michelin-starred restaurant living up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sunday Brunch 12pm-3pm, closed every Tue www.jaime-bangkok.com

French

Le Boeuf

Elements

This Michelin-starred restaurant expertly fuses Japanese and French culinary aesthetics, flavours and precision, in a retro-futuristic space that feels like a home study but has the theatricality of a playhouse. 25F The Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Wireless Rd Tel: 02 687 9000 Open: Tue-Sat 6pm-10:30pm www.okurabangkok.com

La Vie@Piano Bar

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at this elegant restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

The concept here is simple: highquality steak, liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core. 60 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd Tel: 02 672 1230 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com

Fusion/International

Karmakamet Diner

Although the café style selections are outstanding, the talented kitchen team is also adept at creating some serious fine dining dishes. bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK

LOCATION 1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, Convent Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com

30/1 Soi Methi Niwet Tel: 02 262 0700 Open daily: 10am-11:30pm www.karmakametdiner.com

Latest Recipe

A new upscale brunch offering from the signature restaurant in the Le Méridien offers a delicious and indulgent approach to wining and dining. The Medittarean-inpsired “La Docle Vita” Lifestyle Buffet offers an eclectic mix of cuisines across various stations, with fresh seafood, made-to-order pasta, free-flow wine and champagne. 1F Le Méridien Bangkok 40/5 Surawong Rd Tel: 02 232 8888 Open daily: 5:30am-10:30am, 5:30pm11pm (a la carte); Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm; Thu-Sat 6pm-9:30pm; Sun 12pm-4pm www.latestrecipebangkok.com

Nimitr

“Oriental Cuisine” inspired by a bangkok101.com

responsible gourmand chef on situated on the 27th floor of the luxurious 137 Pillars Suites & Residences, this beautiful restaurant has an outstanding setting and prepares wonderfully fresh plates with a slight Oriental leaning. Choose from the likes of Chilli Crab, Szechuan Rock Lobster, Beef Massaman, Scallops and Abalone Sashimi, Teriyaki Pork Belly and a plethora of traditional favourites to tempt every palate for every occasion. 27F 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok, 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 Tel: 02 079 7000 Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.137pillarsbangkok.com

Park Society

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this highaltitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus.

29F SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Up & Above

This elegant 24th floor restaurant has fine dining down, but it also boasts a brunch to rival all others— delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F Okura Prestige Bangkok Central Embassy, 57 Witthayu Rd Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: 6am-10:30am, 12pm2:30pm, 12pm-10:30pm; Sun 12pm-3pm www.okurabangkok.com

Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant

Neither an open-air rooftop bar nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two. MAR /APR 2020 | 69

FOOD & DRINK | Listings 60F Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: Mon-Fri 5pm-1am; Sat-Sun 1pm-1am www.banyantree.com

German

brings to Bangkok diners an element of refinement to Indian cuisine, through ornate presentation, amazing flavours, inventive tasting menus, and creative cocktailpairings. Radisson Suites Bangkok Sukhumvit 23/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm Tel: 02 645 4952 www.punjabgrillbangkok.com

restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steaks in town. 20 metres off Convent Rd (in Soi Pipat 2), Silom Rd Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

New American Bunker Sühring

Sühring

German gastronomy comes alive using modern techniques and high-quality ingredients, while still following traditional flavour profiles. The kitchen of this two Michelinstarred restaurant is helmed by a pair of identical twin chefs (Thomas and Mathias), and the results are like nothing you’ll see or taste elsewhere. 10 Yen Akat Soi 3 Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: Mon-Fri 5:30pm-9:30pm; Sat-Sun 11:30pm-12:30am, 5:30pm9:30pm www.restaurantsuhring.com

From the outside this three-storey bunker-like concrete building may look rustic and unfinished, but do not worry; inside, you’ll find contemporary American cuisine with a heavy New York influence being served up. The top-notch ingredients and excellence in execution are really what mark the dishes here. 118/2 Sathorn Soi 12 (Soi Suksa) Tel: 092 563 9991 Open daily: 17:30pm-12am www.bunkerbkk.weebly.com

CHAR Restaurant

Indus

CHAR Restaurant

Punjab Grill Bangkok

This popular restaurant franchise— there are over 26 outlets in India— 70 | MAR /APR 2020

Ocken

Offering dishes inspired by memories and experiences of travels and cultures from near and afar to be shared by people who love to eat, Ocken explores creative techniques, bold flavour combinations, and cooking with no boundaries. The cuisine is known for its free-spirited nature which changes periodically according to what the team feels like eating. 1F Bhiraj Tower at Sathon South Sathon Rd Tel: 082 091 6174 Open: Brunch: Sat-Sun 10:30am2:30pm; Dinner: Mon-Sun 6pm-12am www.ockenbkk.com

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

Indian An ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine, featuring a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect, while dialling down the stodge and oiliness; a riff on Indian-Chinese—or Himalayan— combinations. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 086 339 8582 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-12am www.indusbangkok.com

Ocken

A stunning dining space, offering modern grill cuisine with remarkable flavours. A simply elegant venue, CHAR Private lets you dine in utmost privacy and style. 25-26F Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road, 81 Wireless Rd Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.charbangkok.com

With a design concept that conjures up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill kitchen at this stunning restaurant space dishes up succulent steaks and other meaty morsels. It’s also home to a super cool looking whisky room. 34F Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-12am; Sun 11:30am-3:30pm www.hyatt.com

Eat Me

Upstairs at Mikkeller

Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top

The second-floor, six table restaurant is simple but effective with an open kitchen and Michelinbangkok101.com

Listings | FOOD & DRINK star food sure to wow guests. Expect to be spoiled with a rousing and wide-ranging tasting menu, expertly paired with international craft beers. 2F 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2 Tel: 091 713 9034 Open: Wed-Sat 6pm-10pm www.upstairs-restaurant.com

1F Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, 789 Moo 14, Bangna-Trad Rd, Samut Prakan Tel: 02 118 7722 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm www.facebook.com/favolasuvarnabhumi

Kisso

Italian Attico

Award winning Attico Restaurant serves authentic Italian cuisine, Whilst sharing the skyline views from the terrace areas. 28F Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 Open daily: 5pm-11pm www.facebook.com/atticoitalianrestaurant

La Bottega di Luca

This elegant Italian eatery, overseen by the ever charming Luca Appino, serves over 15 different kinds of pasta and an array of Italian specialties you won’t find on many other menus in Bangkok. 2F Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 204 1731 Open: Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11:30pm, Mon 5:30pm-11:30pm www.labottega.name/restaurant

Medinii Don Giovanni

Don Giovanni

From the big wooden pillars to the villa scenery painted on walls and busts on pedestals, this restaurant transports patrons to a different place and time, with a menu that offers Italian classics and a piano player tickles the ivories as one dines. GF Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao, 1693 Phahonyothin Rd Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 541 1234, ext 4169 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Favola

Specialising in the robust and rustic flavours of Italy, Favola is the favoured destination for cosy, romantic dinners. A homey, provincial dining room is decorated in vivid green and rich brown wood with ambient backlighting. bangkok101.com

room has a different, eye-popping design scheme. 21/38 Sukhumvit Soi 23 Open daily: 5:30pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 088 0706 facebook.com/Shabu.katana

The Italian-inspired restaurant is somewhat tucked away high up at Asoke intersection. A hidden standout fine dining concept serving dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavours. Free flow of authentic Pasta & Pizza includes soft drink. Easily accessed by Asoke BTS and Sukhumvit MRT. 35F The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit Rd Tel: 02 686 7000 Open daily: Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-12am; Sunday Brunch 12pm-4pm www.thecontinentdining.com/medinii. php

Japanese Katana Shabu & Japanese Dining

The deliciously inventive Japanese fusion cuisine here is equally matched by the inventiveness of the décor—where each private dining

Combining a modern mastery of time-honoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, this is one of the top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. 8F The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com

Spanish El Tapeo

This three-storey restaurant, which specialises in tapas-style offerings, offers authentic Spanish tastes at very affordable prices. 159/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 052 0656 Open: Sun, Tue-Thu, 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat, 11:30am-1am www.eltapeobkk.com

Uno Mas

With its expansive menu of authentic Spanish specialties, coupled with spectacular city views, this chic, sky-high tapas bar and restaurant reaches new “heights” in several respects. 54F Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 999/99 Rama I Rd Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 4pm-1am www.unomasbangkok.com MAR /APR 2020 | 71

FOOD & DRINK | Listings

Steak & Burger New York Steakhouse

Looking for a traditional style steakhouse? From the spotless white tablecloths to the wooden plateholders adorned with silver handles shaped like longhorn steers, this is a classic red meat restaurant. 2F JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi 2 Open daily: 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 656 7700 www.jwmarriottbangkok.com

Canvas

Serving up artistic Michelinrated masterpieces on a plate, the visionary kitchen team here uses mostly local produce and ingredients, conjuring up unique concoctions that give traditional Thai dishes a definite twist. Try one of the chef’s incredible tasting menus. 113/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 099 614 1158 Open: Tue-Thu, Sun, 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sat, 6pm-12:30am www.canvasbangkok.com

Thai Bangkok Heightz

A rooftop sky bar with an authentic Thai concept. This restaurant serves delicious food with focus on local seafood and Thai cocktails. Meanwhile, views of Bangkok’s downtown cityscape can be enjoyed from the restaurant’s open air-deck. 39F The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit Rd Tel: 02 686 7000 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.thecontinentdining.com/th/ bangkok-heightz.php

Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant and cooking school sits in a gorgeous Thai historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd Tel: 02 673 9353-8 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.blueelephant.com 72 | MAR /APR 2020

Paii

A casual dining concept presenting modern Thai seafood in a centuryold The House on Sathorn. W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd Tel: 02 344 4025 Open daily: 12pm-12am www.thehouseonsathorn.com

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest, freshest ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: 12pm-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Le Du

It might sound French but the name Le Du actually derives from the Thai word for ‘season,’ and seasonal Thai ingredients are the focus here in progressive Frenchinfluenced dishes that are also rooted in tradition. Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn is one of the rising stars of the Bangkok dining scene, earning Le Du a Michelin star. 399/3 Silom Soi 7 Tel: 092 919 9969 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.ledubkk.com

Market Café

Inspired by Ayutthaya era’s traditional markets is the all-new Market Café. With a menu that stays true to Thai flavours, the restaurant offers freshly prepared dishes with bold spices and vibrant flavours crafted by chefs who are well-versed in local cuisine. 4F Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 Open daily: 6am-10:30pm www.facebook.com/pg/MarketCafeBKK

Saffron

Award-winning contemporary Thai cuisine. Spoil yourself in the best of Thai signature dishes, which include seared Tasmanian salmon with crispy pork crackling and a spicy citrus dressing, banana blossom salad with perfectly grilled and marinated prawns served with a coconut dressing and fried banana flowers. 52F Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30pm-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.banyantree.com/en/thailand/ bangkok

Sala Rim Naam

A stunning traditional pavilion located across the river from Mandarin Oriental where you will dine and experience Thai culture with all your senses. Classical Thai dance shows starts every bangkok101.com

Listings | FOOD & DRINK night at 7:45pm. Dress code is required: elegant attire and proper footwear for ladies, long trousers and shirts with closed-in shoes for gentlemen. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 7pm-10pm www.mandarinoriental.com

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, diners at this elegant, Michelinstarred eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an incredible culinary adventure down a menu-less-travelled. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 991/9 Rama I Rd Tel: 02 162 9000 Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-12am www.srabuabykiinkiin.com

Café Brunch & Baked

A small classic bakery and cafe in Old Town Bangkok serving breakfast and brunch. Highlights here are their freshly baked pastries and cakes, which are made of generous, quality ingredient–and not overwhelmingly sweet. 120 Mahannop Rd Tel: 063 094 4494 facebook.com/brunchandbaked

The Chocolate Boutique

With a clear and strong focus on natural quality ingredients and old world craftsmanship, this chocolate café, cake, and sweet shop exudes bangkok101.com

sense of playful experimentation from the moment you begin browsing the menu. GF Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 8am-11pm www.shangri-la.com/bangkok

Vegetarian

Kay’s Boutique Breakfast

Kay’s is dedicated to making your breakfast, the most important meal, full of joy and excitement. Serving both gourmet breakfast buffet line and à la carte at a reasonable price, the food is cooked fresh from the griddle right in front of you. Scrumptious morning treats are sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. Morning drinks are designed to be a great booster for the rest of your day. 6F, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd Tel: 02 245 1953 Open daily: 10am-10pm 116/55-57 Soi Rang Nam Open daily: 6:30am-4pm; Tue 6:30am12pm www.kaysbangkok.com

Simple. Natural Kitchen

A quaint restaurant featuring a rich vegan menu with local and organic delicacies. With Italian inspiration, the restaurant has a rustic décor and is situated in a small alley away from the bustle of the city. The rich blend of organic spices and ingredients and the welcoming staff attract many vegan lovers looking for a quick brunch. 235/5 Sukhumvit Garden Soi 31 Tel: 02 662 2510 Open: Tue-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 8am6pm www.simplenaturalkitchen.com

Broccoli Revolution

This vegan-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright vegetarian bites which could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 662 5001 Open daily: Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat-Sun 7am-10pm 6F Central Embassy Tel: 02 160 5788 Open daily: 10:30am-9pm www.broccolirevolution.com

Simple. Natural Kitchen

Veganerie Concept

The modern-rustic interior is flooded with natural light, and the fare— from tantalizing dairy-free bakery desserts to vegan appetisers and main courses—is pretty “natural” as well. 35/2 Soi Methiniwet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) Tel: 02 258 8489 Open: Fri-Wed, 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/ veganbakerybangkok MAR /APR 2020 | 73

The Moment by Khun Shacky at The Bar, The House On Sathorn

NIGHTLIFE Champagne food pairings on the rooftop CRU Champagne Bar at Red Sky, Centara Grand at CentralWorld is serving new bite-sized snacks to pair with the long list of Champagne. Vegetarian menus are also available for sharing. The curated menu is on offer from 5pm to 1am alongside G.H. Mumm Grand Cordon Rouge, a choice of unique Champagne-based cocktails and more. champagnecru.com

Supanniga Edition Cava in White Sangria Supanniga Edition Cava Reserva Label is specially produced in Can Martí, a 135-hectare estate owned by the Torelló family since 1395 in the municipality of Gelida in Barcelona, Spain. It has a character of green herbs and lime and a crisp finish and is now available at Supanniga Eating Room, Supanniga Cruise, and Somtum Der in Thailand. For a new dining experience, taste Cava in White Sangria alongside the food. www.supannigacruise.com

Thank God It’s Thursday at Zest Bar & Terrace Zest Pop Up events run for two hours on the last Thursday of every month at Zest Bar & Terrace, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok where food is paired with free-flow sparkling wine, red wine and white wine. March's Vietnamese Varieties edition is set on 26 March 2020 and April's Mediterranean Medley edition on 30 April from 7pm-9pm. Both are priced at B600++ with unlimited beverages. www.facebook.com/WestinBangkok

Cocktail Hours at The Bar Every day from 5:30pm-7:30pm, The Bar at The House on Sathorn adds an extra hour to the Happy Hour with Buy One Get One Free from the selected menu promotion. The Bar boasts a secluded garden view of Paii restaurant as well as Single Malt and Blended Whiskies, Bourbon and Rye and more. www.whotels.com

NIGHTLIFE | Review

May Rai Phad Thai Bar A new rustic natural wine bar in Bangkok’s old town by Morgan JT

idden in a small lane opposite of Wat Phra Chetuphon (Wat Pho) is a newcomer in the bar scene, May Rai Phad Thai Bar. The word ‘May Rai’ refers to alcoholic beverages of any kind in the Thai language, however, this small two-storey shophouse doesn’t serve just any kind. The brothers team running this bar is Chaisri ‘Tam’ Tassanakajohn and Thitid Tassanakajohn or Chef Ton from Le Du. Focusing on their personal passion and interests, the venue offers a selection of natural wines, both from the new and old world. “We love natural wines because they have such unique 76 | MAR /APR 2020

identities. We want to share our passion with everyone,” Tam said. Possibly the only natural wine bar in the neighbourhood at this time, after its launch three weeks ago, the venue already gathered a following. “This is precisely why we chose this location. It’s right by the river. It’s in a beautiful and rustic shophouse in Bangkok’s old town. We can see Wat Arun (The Temple of Dawn) across the river and the beautiful Wat Pho is on the other side of the street. It’s the kind of atmosphere you can’t find anywhere else,” he added. The yellow and white shophouse is located on Maha Rat Road opposite of Wat Pho. The

venue is small but it isn’t easily missed. In front of the bar, bright red and white neon signs stand. One boasting the bar’s name in Thai while the other states, ‘Only Kids Drink Milk.’ May Rai Phad Thai Bar plans to expand further in April. It will open a private fine-dining space on the second floor. The restaurant will accommodate 10 seats with Chef Ton acting as the executive chef overseeing the menus.

May Rai Phad Thai Bar 22 Maha Rat Rd Tel: 081 432 4050 Opening daily: 12pm to midnight www.facebook.com/mayraibkk bangkok101.com

NIGHTLIFE | Listings

Bar

1919

An Italian bar celebrating Negroni or Spritz from the same team behind Vesper. It is also a restaurant or trattoria offering classic Italian delicacies as well as oysters and wine menu. 10/15 Convent Rd Tel: 02 236 5558 Open: Mon-Fri 11am-11:30pm, Sat-Sun 5:30pm-11:30pm www.1919bkk.co

Lunch & Dinner 11:30am-12am, Sunday Brunch 11:30am-3pm www.anantara.com/en/siam-bangkok/ restaurants/aqua

Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 3pm-12am www.hyatt.com

Bamboo Chic Bar

Beer Belly takes over the large space on the right-hand side of 72 Courtyard’s ground floor and offers 20 beers on tap, ranging from Leo and Asahi to La Chouffe and L’Olmaia LA5. Bottled Thai craft beers like Chalawan and Phuket Beer are also available alongside East-meets-West drinking snacks like pork wontons and barbecue ribs. While inside space provides games on the house like jenga, chess, darts, pool, ping pong and even a beer pong table; head outside for bar seating and tables when the weather's nice. GF 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7770 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.72courtyard.com/brands/beer-belly

Explore a selection of signature cocktails, wines, and spirits, while the culinary team prepares a variety of snacks and delicatessen favourites in a contemporary lounge setting. 4F Le Méridien Bangkok 40/5 Surawong Rd Tel: 02 232 8888 Open daily: 5:30pm-11:30pm www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com

Bar@494

A cosy place with an extensive selection of international wines. Chic décor, ambient lighting, and an excellent selection of food and wine make this vibrant bar one of Bangkok’s most popular evening venues in downtown area. Come to enjoy world-class cocktails and take About Eatery advantage of daily Happy Hours An italian restaurant that presents and unbeatable value with a wine organic and sustainable produce buffet. as well as a legitimate list of biodynamic natural wines from small Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 494 Ratchadamri Rd artisan growers. Tel: 02 254 1234 Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit 21 Soi 3 Open daily: 12pm-12am Tel: 092 907 2191 www.hyatt.com Open: Mon-Thu 7:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm, Friday 7:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-12am, Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-12am, Sun 11:30am-3:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm www.abouteatery.com

Aqua

All-day dining and evening cocktails in Bangkok. Relax by the koi pond amidst tropical foliage in Aqua’s courtyard setting. Order a bite from any one of the dining establishments, or sample rare whiskies and cocktails. This alfresco lounge is also ideal for smokers with a selection of cigars on offer. Enjoy live DJ sets on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Ratchadamri Rd Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: Breakfast 6am-10:30am, 78 | MAR /APR 2020

The Bar

Featuring black and gold colour theme with both indoor and outdoor seatings, this 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated, quiet and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly-up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd

Beer Belly

The Diplomat Bar

Drop by any night and you’re likely to find suited and booted business types chatting over martinis. Dark wood touches, soft yellow lighting, and a den-like feel partly account for the bar’s popularity from 8pm Monday to Thursday (and 8:30pm Friday and Saturday), a talented band entertains with jazz and R&B sounds. 1F Conrad Bangkok Hotel 87 Wireless Rd Tel: 02 690 9244 Open: Sun-Thu, 7am-1am (happy hour 5pm-8pm, live entertainment Mon-Thu 8:30pm-12:30am), Fri-Sat, 7am-2am www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

Evil Man Blues

Evil Man Blues is a Jazz cocktail bangkok101.com

Listings | NIGHTLIFE bar made out of a man’s madness. Expect the close knit vibe that is full of charm, sexiness and spasms of love. Themed after a 1950s American diner as a homage to the American West Coast jazz bars of the '50s and '60s, purple and blue neon lights illuminate a wellpolished space manned by new-intown bartender, Liam Baer, who serves a list of creative twists on classic cocktails. GF 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

'Ton' Tassanakajohn, chef-owner of Le Du and his brother Chaisiri 'Tam' Tassanakajohn who is a wine guru. Good value Pad Thai is served along with more elevated versions of Khao Soi and natural wine. 22 Maha Rat Rd Tel: 081 432 4050 Open: Wed-Mon 12pm-12am www.facebook.com/mayraibkk

Philtration

A basement-turned speakeasy bar in a century-old Moh Mee house serving cocktails inspired by traditional herbal medicine. 2 Kasem San Soi 3 Tel: 092 282 9005 Open: Tue-Sun 7pm-2am www.facebook.com/Philtrationbkk

Rabbit Hole

Iron Balls

A hidden steampunk distillery by Ashley Sutton, designer of Iron Fairies and Maggie Choo’s. Iron Balls is a purveyor of gin and award winning tropical Thai spirit handmade in Bangkok from fermentation to distillation, using locally sourced botanicals. GF Park Lane Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63 Tel: 02 714 2269 Open: Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm2am www.facebook.com/Ironballsdistillery

Konkord

A high-end cocktail bar with a modern retro style, brutalist design and an intimate club feel serving unpretentious and ever-evolving cocktails while playing hybrid genre of international and local music. 18 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 064 709 9817 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.facebook.com/KONKORD.Bangkok

May Rai PadThai Wine Bar A casual brainchild of Chef Thitid bangkok101.com

A proper cocktail bar run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What’s more, the bartenders really know their spirits. 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 098 969 1335 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.rabbitholebkk.com

Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant

This sophisticated (and elevated) drink spot and bistro offers tipplers both a novel-sized wine list as well as a long list of creative cocktails— many of which make use of in-house infused spirits. 37F Pullman Bangkok Hotel G 188 Silom Rd Tel: 096 860 7990 Open daily: Mon-Fri 6pm-1am; Sat-Sun 5pm-1am www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk

Vesper

A cocktail bar specialised in 2nd wave cocktails and listed as one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars. Live music from 80s synth, disco Motown to nuelectro funk played Friday night. 10/15 Convent Rd Tel: 02 235 2777 Open: Mon-Sat 5:30pm-1am, Sun 5:30pm-12am www.vesperbar.co

Wine Connection The Grill

There are currently 18 Wine Connection outlets in Bangkok, however, this branch sets itself apart focusing on grilled meats— especially beef—to be enjoyed with the large selection of reasonably priced vinos (available mainly by the bottle, but with some “by the glass” options as well). 1F The Groove@CentralWorld Tel: 02 613 1037 Open daily: 11am-1am www.wineconnection.co.th

Rooftop Sky Bar Aire Bar

Offering a variety of wines, beers, and artisanal cocktails, with delicious snacks to boot. Plus, one of the best views of the city (day and night). A laid-back bar perfect for unwinding with a cocktail in hand. 28F Hyatt Place Bangkok Sukhumvit 22/5 Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 055 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.facebook.com/airebarbangkok

CHAR Rooftop Bar

Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown MAR /APR 2020 | 79

NIGHTLIFE | Listings core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road 81 Wireless Rd Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.charbangkok.com

sundowner should heed the 5pm7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 Tel: 02 797 0000 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

Long Table

Character Whisky & Cigar Bar

Both outlets of this warm and comfortable smoker’s lounge—one of which doubles as a skybar—serve some of the rarest and finest single malt whiskies from Scotland (and beyond), as well as housing humidors stocked with premium handmade cigars from Cuba, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic and more. Courtyard at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155 Rajadamri Rd Tel: 02 254 4726 Open: Mon-Sat, 1pm-12am www.facebook.com/characterbar

CRU Champagne Bar

This high altitude hot spot is owned by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama I Rd Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a 80 | MAR /APR 2020

Although known for its massive communal dining table, you can also glug signature cocktails or new latitude wines while enjoying the view from the 25th floor. 25F 48 Column Building Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 02 302 2557-9 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.longtablebangkok.com

Spectrum Lounge & Bar

Enjoy the vibrant social scene and breathtaking views at the newest rooftop bar in Bangkok. Spread over the top three floors, the bar features spacious indoor loungers, an outdoor terrace and perfect unwinding spots with a wide selection of premium tapas, crafted cocktails and DJs entertainment every night. 30F Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/spectrumrooftopbkk

ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar Red Sky Bar

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. 56F Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama I Rd Tel: 02 100 6255 ext 5603 Open daily: 11:30pm-1am www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Rooftop Terrace at Penthouse Bar+Grill

This dramatic skybar is the perfect spot to drink in Bangkok’s night time skyline in an outdoor garden lounge setting. Choose anything from a bucket of drinks, to curated cocktails and expertly crafted bites. 36F Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd Tel: 02 012 1234 Open: Sun-Wed, 5:30pm-1am; Thu-Sat, 5:30pm-2am bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Set high above the glittering lights of Bangkok's Chao Phraya river, discover the perfect setting to relax, unwind and take in unbeatable 360° panoramic vistas. Select from delicious, creative cocktails made by champion mixologists as you enjoy the live music from an experienced jazz singer. Millennium Hilton Bangkok 32F 123 Charoennakorn Rd Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www3.hilton.com

Vertigo & Moon Bar

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Bangkok offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for a romantic rendezvous. 61/64F Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com bangkok101.com

Listings | NIGHTLIFE

Zest Bar and Terrace

Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. 7F Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-12am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com

and themed events in Chinese-style ambience. Sukhumvit Soi 45 Tel: 063 225 1331 Open: Tue-Sun 9:pm-2am singsing-bangkok.com

The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am www.mandarinoriental.com

Pub

Crimson Room

Club Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe plus great music and one of the best sound systems where the floor moves to the beat of the music. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 9pm-late www.beamclub.com

The Irish Pub Bangkok

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours, and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-12am www.facebook.com/theirishpubbkk

The Huntsman Mixx Discotheque

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House—decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 9pm-late www.mixxdiscotheque.com/bangkok

Sing Sing

Voted Bangkok’s Best Club, Sing Sing Theater hosts numerous music bangkok101.com

English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a Sunday roast like no other. GF The Landmark Hotel 138 Sukhumvit Rd Tel: 02 254 0404 Open daily: 11:30am-2am; Sunday roast 11:30am-3pm landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub

Live Music

Another project by the same team that runs Rabbit Hole and Libération. A cabaret-style venue for concocting unique cocktails and performing live jazz music. Reservations are required in advance. Velaa Sindhorn Village 87 Langsuan Rd Tel: 062 259 2525 Open: Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm2am www.facebook.com/crimsonroombkk

Maggie Choo’s

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20thcentury gambling dens. Underground of Hotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd Tel: 02 635 6055 Open: Mon-Thu 7:30pm-2am; Sun 7:302am; Fri-Sat 7:30pm-3am www.maggiechoos.com

SoulBar

Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, A small and busy landmark of shophouse turned small bar on the the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, edge of Chinatown’s art district. 831 Charoenkrung Soi 31 thanks to the legendary jazz band Tel: 085 527 3511 that plays each night. Ideal for Open daily: 6pm-1am a boozy night out or a romantic www.soulbarbkk.com special occasion.

Bamboo Bar

MAR /APR 2020 | 81

Santa Cruz Church, on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River

Getting There | MAP

Rail

SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit SKYTRAIN (BTS) (MRT) is another fast and reliable The Bangkok Transit System, or way to get across town. The BTS, is an elevated train network 18-station line stretches 20km covering the major commercial from Hualamphong (near the areas. Trains run every few minutes central railway station) up to from 6am to midnight, making it a Bang Sue in the north. Subways quick and reliable transport option, run from 6am to midnight daily, especially during heavy traffic with trains arriving every 5-7 hours. Fares range from B16 to B59, minutes. The underground however tourist passes allowing connects with the BTS at MRT unlimited daily travel (B140) as well Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT as trip packages. However, they do Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT not provide any free shuttle bus Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit that transits passengers to and from stations. Subway fares range stations or nearby areas. from about B16 to B42. www.bts.co.th www.bangkokmetro.co.th

River CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats

tend to be frequent. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of intercity waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats

Road BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B8 and B12-20. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should always be negotiated MOTORCYCLE TAXI beforehand. In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, TAXI motorcycle taxis are the fastest, Bangkok has thousands of albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable metered, air-con taxis available by their colourful vests, motorbike 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the bangkok101.com

AIRPORT RAIL LINK A monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with stops in downtown Bangkok and in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line was closed in 2015. There are eight stations in total including Suvarnabhumi (A1), Lat Krabang (A2), Ban Thap Chang (A3), Hua Mak (A4), Ramkamhaeng (A5), Makkasan (A6), Ratchaprarop (A7), and Phaya Thai (A8). www.srtet.co.th

ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares starting from B15 depending on the distance, tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 7pm.

first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added. TUK TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuktuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B80-100. MAR /APR 2020 | 83

MAP | Greater Bangkok Uthai Thani

UTHAI THANI

CHAI NAT

LOP BURI

Nakhon Ratchasima c

Chiang Mai

SING BURI

Kanchanaburi

THAILAND

ANG THONG

NAKHON RATCHASIMA

SARABURI

Nakhon Ratchasima

Ubon

Bangkok Pattaya Koh Samet Koh Chang

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

CAMBODIA

Andaman Sea

AYUTTHAYA

NAKHON NAYOK

Koh Samui

VIETNAM

Gulf of Thailand

Krabi

Phuket

PATHUM THANI NAKHON PATHOM

LAOS Udon Thani

Lop Buri

SUPHAN BURI

KANCHANABURI

MYANMAR

PRACHIN BURI

MALAYSIA

SA KAEO

BANGKOK

c b

RATCHABURI

CHACHOENGSAO

SAMUT PRAKAN

SAMUT SAKHON g

SAMUT SONGKHRAM

CAMBODIA CHON BURI

Phetchaburi

Ko Sichang Pattaya

PHETCHABURI

RAYONG

Cha-am

CHANTHABURI

Rayong Hua Hin

Ko Samet

Muang Chantaburi

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN

Gulf of Thailand

M YA N M A R

Trat Ko Chang

Prachuap Khiri Khan Ko Kut

Sightseeing

Floating Markets

Night Bazaar

1 Damnoen Saduak 1 Asiatique The Riverfront Bang Krachao 2 Amphawa 2 Rot Fai Market, b Samphran Riverside 3 Taling Chan c Samphran Elephant Srinakarin 4 Khlong Lat Mayom 3 Rot Fai Market, Ground & Zoo d 5 Bang Nam Pheung Ratchada Ancient Siam 4 Chang Chui Bangkok (Muang Boran) e Safari World Plane Market Museums f Rama IX Royal Park 1 Erawan Museum 5 Patpong g Mahachai Market 2 House of Museums h Phra Pathommachedi 3 Thai Film Museum i Koh Kret Pottery Village 4 Museum of Counterfeit j Rangsit Science Center Goods k Samutprakarn Crocodile Farm and Zoo a

20 KM 20 miles

Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border

84 | MAR /APR 2020

bangkok101.com

Greater Bangkok & The Chao Phraya | MAP

Tanya Tanee j

PAK KRET

Don Mueng

Don Mueng Int. Airport

Ko Kret i

Sai Mai

Royal Irrigation Dept.

Lak Si

Rajpruek

The Legacy

Bang Khen

Northpark

Khlong Sam wa

Royal Thai Army Sport Center

Thanont

MUENG NONTHABURI

Chatuchak

Panya Indra

Lat Phrao Bueng Kum

Bang Sue

Khan na Yao

Chatuchak

Bang Phlat

Navatanee

Phayathai

Dusit

Mini Buri

Mo Chit

Bang Sue

Wang Thong lang

Din-Daeng

Taling Chan

Huai Khwang

Ratchathewi

Bangkok Noi

Bangkok Yai 5 *

Thon Buri

Watthana

Lumpini

Bang Rak

Khlong San

Bang Wa

Bang Kholaem

Lat Krabang

Suan Luang Khlong Toei

Sathorn Prawet

Chom Thong

60 th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park

Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande

Pathumwan Phasi Charoen

Saphan Sung

Bang Kapi

Yan Nawa 4

Bang Bon

Phra Khanong

Suan Luang Rama IX

Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport

Phra Pradaeng

Rat Burana

Bang Na 5

Summit Windmill

Bearing

Bang Khun Thian

Thung Khru

Mueang Kaew

Green Valley

PHRA SAMUT CHEDI

SAMUT PRAKAN

Bangpoo

Gulf of Thailand

bangkok101.com

MAR /APR 2020 | 85

MAP | Sukhumvit Road

Phra Ram 9

a IX

Ram

Royal

m9 Prara ital Hosp

City

Ave

RCA ange R ing

Driv

Din

het 7

ng P

phae

kam

Phet

Uthai

Ital Thai Expy

(Toll

Makkasan

b tcha

Phe

tate

S 2nd

oad)

8/1

uri 3

Phetchaburi

k Su

het 7

Prasanmit

ng P

phae

kam

oi it S mw 49 /1

Soi

Prasa

t Soi 2

Benjasiri Park

vit 6

oh a an iN

So i

ssw re

Son

Ton

Benjakiti Park

Hotels

Conrad Bangkok 2 Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 3 Seven Hotel 4 JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 5 Rembrandt Hotel & Suites Bangkok 6 Four Points by Sheraton 7 Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 1

300 m 1328 ft

Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Subway Line Railway

86 | MAR /APR 2020

Galleria 10 Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 11 Marriott Executive Apartments 12 Grande Centre Point Terminal 21 13 Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 8 9

Le Fenix Sukhumvit 5 6 Radisson Suites Bangkok 7 Sukhumvit 8 Arts & Culture 1 Japan Foundation 9 2 Attic Studios 10 3 WTF Gallery and Café 4 The Pikture Gallery Art Workshop & Framing 14

RMA Institute Sombat Permpoon Gallery Art Gallery G23 Subhashok The Arts Centre (S.A.C.) Yellow Korner Ardel’s Third Place Gallery

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Sukhumv

vit

k Na

Soi

an R

g Su

Lau

Soi 35

oi 3

it S

vit

it S

khu

Phrom

khu

Asok

Sukhumvit

umvi

Sukh

vit S

hum

2 13 14

ale

udi

vit Soi 10

Sukhum

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t Soi

vit

Rua

vit S

hum

Suk

vit

umvi

Sukh

t Soi

umvi

Suk

Sukh

Soi

vit

umvi

hum

Sukhumvit 12

Sukh

Suk

oi 1

Soi

vit S

vit

hum

Suk

oi 1

vit S

hum

Suk

hum

Nana

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oi 3

oi 7

vit S

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Suk

vit S

t Sin

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Loe

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Soi

Khit

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Soi

hum

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Saw

Soi

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23 21

PK Suk

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Som

Phloen Chit

Aso

Cha

hai

Sea

Soi

7 3

Suk

Soi

u Rd

hay Witt Soi

Chit

Chit Lom

27 14

Rur

25 22

a Nue

Witthayu

Soi

a Nan

Nana

ad rungr Bam ital Hosp

n Ch

Mit

Rd Soi

e Phlo

uri

tch he

tral Cen Lom Chit

hop

Soi P

chat Bura akon iy Cha ital Hosp

in Eye Rutn ital Hosp

9 Soi 3

o Nikh

k Su

Asok

Soi 41

n Rd

kasa

ak mM

Sukhumvit Road | MAP

uri R

Thong Lo

Ekkamai

ai Ekkam

Lo 23

2 my

oi uan N Soi N ai Ekkam

an o iB

ng myo B an o

ai 21

Ekkam

Thong

P ri d i

kamai Soi Ek

ong Lo Soi Th

Camillian Hospital

Thong Lo

yon

nom

i Ba

Prid

i 28 Ekkama

Prid

yon

nom

i Ba

Ekkamai 23

Prid

chab

Phet

B idi

Prid

k Su

i So

it So umw Sukh

it mw

Ekkamai

k Su

mai Ekka

hu 49

i 49/6

oi it S mw

20 mai Ekka

/1 3

Lo 1

Thong

ai Ekkam

Lo 10

ai Ekkam

mv 1

ong Lo

ka Ek

it 7

ang

hro

Soi Kl

kamai Soi Ek

i ama Ekk

Soi Th

ng L

Tho

ka Ek

Soi

di M

i Pa

M rom

i 10

ama

Ekk

j itive Sam mvit u Sukh spital Ho

Soi

hu Suk

g Thon

hab

Sett

Suk hum vit Soi

16 The ChindAsia Club 17 The Iron Fairies 18 Fat Gut'z 19 Shades of Retro 20 diVino 21 W XYZ Bar 22 Marshmallow 23 Oskar Bistro 24 TUBA Design Furniture & Restaurant 25 Apoteka

Long Table Diplomat Bar 13 The Living Room 14 Barsu 15 WTF Gallery and CafÃ© 11

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Nightlife

vit

Soi

Glow Club 2 Demo 3 Levels Club 4 8 on Eleven 5 Beam 6 Narz Club 1

Hanrahans 8 The Pickled Liver 9 Robin Hood 10 The Royal Oak 7

vit

oi 4

it S

vit

Clubs

Pubs

t umvi Sukh spital Ho

Suk

Robinsons 2 Terminal 21 3 The Emporium 4 EmQuartier 1

Ekkamai

Phra Khanong

Malls

hum

Sukhumvit

i 36

Thong Lo

vit So

Sukhum

Soi 28

vit

um ukh

i 34

Suk

vit

Soi

vit

hum

Sukhumvit

Soi 26

Soi 24

Sukhumvit

Benjasiri Park

Suk

oi 5

it S

t Soi

oi 4

umvi

it S

Suk

Soi 4

Sukh

umvit

Sukh

ukda

Phrom Phong

Suk

t Soi

eng M

umvi

Soi 35

Soi Sa

Sukh

Sukhumvit

Water Library Brasserie at Central Embassy 27 Nest 28 Above Eleven

Embassies

India Philippines ES Spain SE Sweden PK Pakistan JO Jordan BN Brunei Darussalam IN

MAR /APR 2020 | 87

MAP | Siam/Chit Lom

Soi 29

Soi 3 5

Soi Sukhumvit 1

Soi Lang Suan 1

Soi 4

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Soi 4

Soi 5 Soi 5

Sarasin

Soi 6

Chulalongkorn University Area

Hotels

Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square 3 Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate Bangkok 6 Novotel Bangkok Platinum Pratunam 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 8 Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 9 The St. Regis Bangkok 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Conrad Bangkok 13 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 14 Hotel Muse 15 The Okura Prestige Bangkok 1

200 m 1 000 ft

Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market

88 | MAR /APR 2020

Soi Ruam Rudi

Soi 7

Sarasin Rd Lumphini Park

d 16 Centara Watergate Siam Ocean World 10 Erawan Plaza e 11 The Peninsula Pavillion Ganesha and 17 Mayfair, Bangkok Trimurti Shrine Plaza 12 Amarin Plaza Marriott Executive f Erawan Shrine g Apartments Phra Indra Shrine 13 Central Chidlom 18 Hotel Indigo 14 All Seasons Place 15 Central Embassy Bangkok Nightlife 19 The Athenee 1 Mixx Discotheque 2 Red Sky Bar Hotel, a Luxury Shopping 3 Balcony Humidor 16 Siam Square Collection Hotel 20 Oriental Residence 17 Pratunam Market & Cigar Bar 4 Café Trio 19 Siam Square One Bangkok 5 Hyde&Seek

Arts & Culture

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) 2 100 Tonson Gallery 1

Malls

MBK 2 Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza Sightseeing a 6 The Platinum Jim Thomson House Fashion Mall b Madame Tussauds 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen@ Museum c CentralWorld Queen Savang Vadhana Museum 9 Gaysorn 1

udi 2

Soi 3

am R

Soi 2

Ratchadamri

Soi Nai Lert

Soi Som Khit

Soi Chit Lom 17

14 12

u Soi R

Th. Witthayu Rd

UA IT

NL Soi Mahatlek Luang3

Soi Ruam Rudi

So i6

Soi 5

Ratchadamri Rd

19 5

Soi Mahatlek Luang 2 8

CO VN

Phloen Chit 15

Henri Dunant Rd

Soi 9

Soi Mahatlek Luang 1

vit 2

Rajamangala University

Soi 11

Soi 3

Soi 4

Soi 2

Soi 1

Soi 8

Siam Square

Phloen Chit

Chit Lom

m ukhu

Phaya Thai Rd

Witthayu Rd

Soi Tonson

f 10

an R hith ng P

Soi 7

Soi S

Dua

Siam

National Stadium

Soi 31 Soi 33

Soi 23 Soi 25

Soi 27

Soi Lang Suan

Rama I

3 10

Soi 10

Soi Kaesem San1

Soi Kaesem San2

ay e ssw Expr

b 2

Nai Lert Park

ohn

Wat Pathum Wanaram

Nak

Srapathum Palace

2 13

Chit Lom

lerm

Prathunam

Witthayu Bridge

Soi 32

Saeb c

Hua Chang Bridge

Soi 30

Khlong San

Ratchaprarop

Soi 19

Soi 15

ID Soi 20

Ratchathewi

Cha

Phetchaburi Soi 18

uri Rd

Soi 22

Phetchab

Soi 17

Soi 13

Embassies

Switzerland Finland ID Indonesia CO Colombia NL Netherlands NZ New Zealand QA Qatar UA Ukraine UK United Kingdom US United State VN Vietnam IT Italy CH FI

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tR nan 8

Thaniya

Soi 4

Patpong 1 Patpong 2

8 Than Tawan Rd Soi 6

He nry

Trok Klue

Sap Rd s Naradhiwaind ra Rajanagar

Soi 12

Soi 10

Naret Rd

aya

Tha

Soi So ng Ph ra

i Rd

6 3 11

Sala Daeng

Soi 11 Yaek 3

Silom

Sala Daeng 1

Soi 6 b

CA Ram

Sala Daeng 1/1

Soi Phra Phinit

Suan Phlu Soi 1

Sathorn Nuea Rd Sathorn Tai Rd

MX 12

Suan Suan

Soi 1

Sala Daeng Rd

St. Joseph School

Soi 5

Soi 7

Soi 8

Convent Rd

Soi 1

Soi 3

Soi 7

Soi 9 14

Soi 9

Soi 14

Charo

at 2

Chulalongkorn Hospital

Surawong Rd

Suan Phlu – Sathron Soi 3

janagarindra Rd

roe

at 1

Char

Cha

Soi 13

en R

Soi

King Mongkut’s University of Technology

Chong Nonsi

Soi 13 int Lou ise – Sathor n Soi 11

oen R

tho Sa

Surasak

Soi Phiphat 2

Soi Sa

So rn

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Lumpini Park

Sathorn Nuea Rd Sathorn Tai Rd Soi 15

at Rd

un Kr n oe ar

So i5 7 S So oi 5 Ch i 61 9 aro en Kru ng

So So i 51 i5 3

Cha

Naradhiwas Ra

Suras ak

suri

Chulalongkorn University

Sam Yan

Pan Rd

i4 6 i5 1 0

Saphan Taksin

SathornSo

2 i4 So 44 i So

Iam

Silom Rd

Ta Taksin ksi nB rid g

chai

chit

Surawong Rd Kam

Soi Nom

Soi 14 Decho Rd

Oriental

Soi 1 8 Soi 16

Soi 38 Soi 40

Soi 2 6

Dumax

n Rd

Soi Santiphap

Soi 19

Wat Suwan

Rak– 1 Soi 3 6

Phloi

Soi Puttha Oso

Pramua

Bang

5 5 6

Soi 30

Soi 3

Sek Rd

Wat Muang Khae 6

Maha

Trok Ph et

Soi 32

Post

Soi 5

on Rd Na kh Soi 39

Soi 30

Si Phraya PT

Soi

Soi 13

Si Phraya

Soi 11

Hua Lamphong

Ma ha

Rd Krung Charo en

Cha roen

Khlong San

e Exp ressw ay

2 nd Stat

Nak hon

wang

Soi Sa

Phr aN akh are

Marine Dept.

Lat Ya Rd

Soi 22 Soi P/2ra– Prach um dit

Soi Wanit 2

Siam/Chit Lom | MAP

13 4

Phlu

Soi Nantha Mozart

hlu 8

Immigration Oﬃce

Hotels

The Peninsula Bangkok 2 Millenium Hilton 3 Shangri-La Bangkok 4 Centre Point Hotel Silom 5 Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton 7 Lebua at State Tower 8 Holiday Inn 9 Pullman Bangkok Hotel G 10 Le Meridien 11 Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park 12 Banyan Tree Bangkok 13 The Sukhothai Bangkok 14 W Bangkok 1

bangkok101.com

15 Ascott Sathorn Bangkok

Art to Art gallery Artery Gallery

Embassies

Austria BE Belgium Bars with Shopping CA Canada 1 Robinsons CE Germany Views 1 Three Sixty Lounge 2 River City Shopping GR Greece 2 Red Sky Bar 3 Silom Village FR France 3 Panorama 4 Silom/Patpong MY Malaysia 4 Vertigo Too Night-Market MX Mexico 5 Jim Thompson MN Myanmar Shop Surawong Nightlife PT Portugal 5 La Casa del 6 O.P. Place SG Singapore 7 Iconsiam Habano Bangkok 8 The Jam Factory 6 Bamboo Bar 9 Klongsan Plaza 7 Eat Me 8 Tapas

Arts & Culture

Serindia Gallery 2 Number 1 Gallery 3 Gossip Gallery 4 H Gallery 5 Bangkokian Museum 6 Kathmandu Photo Gallery 1

200 m 1 000 ft

River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market

Sightseeing a b

Snake Farm MR Kukrit’s House

MAR /APR 2020 | 89

MAP | Yaowarat/Pahurat (Chinatown & Little India ) Ma

na Na

rad

t Rd

Rama IV Rd

Yaowarat oi

aro

Kru

Tri i ngs

nit 1

at Rd

Song W

D oi

Rd et i Ph

Rajchawongse ut

a an Ph Saph

ng R

Sap

Princess Mother Memorial Park

Hotels

Grand China Princess 2 Shanghai Mansion Bangkok 1

200 m 1 000 ft

River Ferry River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market

D Tha

ae in D

an aph

pir

Phu

han

Phu

Ba N

Tha Din Daeng

Memorial Bridge

Soi T

ha K

lang

ha R

Arts & Culture

Chalermkrung Theatre Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre 1 2

Temples

Wat Ratburana b Wat Phra Piren c Wat Bophit Phimuk Worawihan d Wat Chakrawat e Wat Chaichana Songkhram f Wat Mangkon Kamalawat g Wat Samphan thawongsaram Worawiharn h Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha) i Wat Kanikapol j Wat Disanukaram a

Markets

Lang Krasuang Market Ban Mo (Hi-Fi Market) 1 Pak Khlong Talat (Flower Market) 1 Yot Phiman Market 1 Pahurat–Indian Fabric Market 1 Sampeng Market 1 Woeng Nakhon Kasem (Thieves Market) 1 Khlong Tom Market 1 Talat Kao (Old Market) 1 Talat Mai (New Market) 1 1

Sightseeing k

90 | MAR /APR 2020

Chinatown Gate at the Odient Circle

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Marine Dept. N

o nM

Rachini Rd Atsadang Rd

d at R

Mit

ra anu

Chaiyaphun

Trok Itsaranuphap

Mangkon

Soi Wa

YSoi3

Anu

Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station

Hua Lamphong

Mittrphan Rd 2 oi YS

Chi

Y Soi 9

Phadungdao–Soi Texas

Soi 18

Soi 4

Plang Nam

Soi 21

Soi 16 Soi 6

Soi 14 Soi 8

Y Soi 15

d ng R

itri

t Rd Song Sawa

Rd Soi 19

n Mangko

Sua Pa Rd Ratchawong Rd

Y Soi 21 Y Soi 19

Y Soi 23

Luean Rit d

Y Soi 11

1 Soi Aner Keng

Chakkrawat

at R

hur

Pha

R ari

rap

Sampeng Lane – Soi Wanit

Y Soi 17

Soi 17

Maha Chak

Soi 8

Soi 10

YS10 CKS12

Soi 15

Soi 11

Soi 13

9 So i

6 i So

Yaow

4 i So

Pha

Rd arat

Rd Chakphet

Rd hat rip

i So

i Sir So

ha kP

Tro

d iR Cha

ha Ma

Rd an

o Ph

ak Unng d R ng

o Th Ti

gR un Kr 1

g Ran

h tip

is W ok

s Ka

Charoen Krung Rd

t Rd

Romaneenart Park

Khlon

n Rd

t Phire

Wa Thom

Si Thammathirat

Sir

Trok Si

k Rd Woracha

Soi

hat

Chi

u Kr

ng R

Lua

itri

Mai

Ban Dok

ulin Soi Ch

Rattanakosin (Oldtown) | MAP Ra

m So

Rama VIII Bridge

its

VII

ulo

tP de

Sam sen

ok R d noe nN Dam

Dinso Rd

cha Rat at Rd

Boriph

Chai R

ak R Wo

Soi B

Khlon

an B

rach

g Ong

Ang

hir

at R

hai Rd

Ch ak

hit

Wat Chakrawat

Anu

at R

won

g Rd

on gR

Son

tch

lao

Bridg e

Maha

Rd Dinso

g Rd

okk

orial

at R

kraw

Chak

Phr

Wat Kanlayannamit

ai kY ko ng Ba

nR lon

Wat Bophit Pimuk

Market

Mem

ari Am Kh

d Pak Khlong Memorial Bridge

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Sri

un Ar

et R

Yodpiman Wat Liap Market

kph

Rajinee

Ka sem

Cha

pho

ak ra

Phahurat Rd

et R

lat

m ha

Phir a

Wat Arun (Temple of the dawn)

an hak

Burapha Rd

Phra Phi Phit

Museum of Siam ett Soi S

Royal Theatre

Thip Wari

Ban Mo Rd

rat

Wat Arun

ho etup

ha Ma

Tha Tien

lon

t Rd

Wat Pho

Trok Phan um

Sam Yot

Charoen Krung Rd

Tri Phe

g Rd

Wan

ai Sanam Ch

Thai

ng R

Trok

ya Si

Lua

iph

Soi Phra

Wat Saket

Muang Rd

Rommaninat Park

Soi Sa So ng Soi Long Tha

Phan Fah Leelard

Wisu t

Saranrom Park

Soi Mahannop 2

Ratchabophit

Wat Ratchabophit

Soi S iricha i2 Soi S iricha i1

Soi Sirip at

Ti Thon

Khlong Lot

Saranrom

Trok Sukha 2

Rat

Bumrung Rd

Wat Suthat

Trok Sukha1

ng Rak

Wat Ratchanatdaram

mran

Una n Rd Siri Phka ong Rd

aitri Rd

Wat Ratchapradit

Damro

g Tai

Soi Sa

Giant Swing

uang Rd

Rd an Saw on h k Na Lan Luang Rd

Klan

Bor

Tanao Rd

Buranasat Rd

Trok Nava

City Hall

Phraeng Nara

noen

Sin

Mahanno

Bumrung M

Kalayana M

Grand Palace

Phraeng Phuthon

Wat Phra Kaew

Dam

Wat Ratchanatdaram

m Trok

Khru

Maha C

Lak Mueang Rd

Democracy Monument

ang Tai

on Rd

Na Phra Lan Rd

Trok

g Nuea

Tro

Fuang Nakh

Na Hap Phoei

e Rd Rachine g Rd Atsadan

noen Klan

Klang

noen Kl

Bunsiri

Ratcha

Soi Silipako

Soi Dam

noen

Trokat T hep Sath T hid ien a Ra

Damno

Sanam Luang

Pra cha T

Ch ae Tr ok Ka i

Rd en Nai

at Rd ra Th

n Rd

Na Ph

Maharat Rd

ake Khlo ng Lo t

S g oi ra BangSamse Su n Wat me Lamp 2 n R hu Bowonniwet d ViHara

Soi Dam

Trok

lon

Silpokaorn University

Chao Phraya

a Dam

Cha

Tha Chang

osa

n Tu

Wat Mahathat

Kha

R lao

K in

Amulet Market

tt Bu

sa Ka

Wang Lang

ais

ok Tr

Phra

Maharaj

National Arts Gallery

iW or

Ratch

Thammasart University

Wat Chana Songkhram

tP de m So ge id

Br Dua

lao

National Theatre

Railway

ttr

National Museum

Wat Rakhang

R oi

ink

11 Thonburi

ak kr a

aP hr

Khlong Bangkok Noi

Thonburi Railway

Ati

d tR

Phra Atith

a hr

asa

de m So

lao

hip ata i

K in 12

aP Phra Pin Klao Bridge N

d Rd R ng em ua as kL gK Lu run K

hr Wat Saodung

Rajchawongse

MAR /APR 2020 | 91

SIGNING OFF | Did You Know?

Department of Marine and Coastal Resources

www.dmcr.go.th 92 | MAR /APR 2020

bangkok101.com

Photo by Symeon Ekizoglou from Pexels

ndustrialisation and numerous developments in different industries and communities lead to exhaustion of marine and coastal resources. These include serious loss of the coastal land and valuable mangrove ecosystems which cause the loss of local fish, animals, corals, seagrass and more. To counter this, the Thai government decided to set up a designated organisation in charge of the conservation of Thailand’s important marine and coastal resources. In 2002, the Department of Marine and Coastal Resources was founded. The duties of Department of Marine and Coastal Resources’ are to actively protect, conserve, restore and manage Thailand’s quickly dwindling natural resources especially the coastal areas, mangrove forests, coral reefs, seagrass and marine animals. The division also provides vital information and education to the locals on how to live harmoniously and sustainably while prospering from Thailand’s rich natural resources. This is to create, or rather, restore the balance of natural ecosystems in Thailand and promote sustainable social and economic stability. The organisation is under the management of the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment.

Bangkok 101 Magazine Mar-Apr 2020

Articles inside

Roses are Red, Violets are Blue, Where the Hell Are You?

Hidden Chinese Herbal Soup in the old park

Rice: The unsung hero

Bank of Thailand Museum

The National Museum of Royal Barges

Travel: KRABI 101

Sanuk-on-Sea

Joe's Bangkok: Faces of Khlongtoey

Alexander Lamont

Into the Hood: Ari

Beating Bangkok Traffic by Boat

Songkran

Baan Silapin

Bangkok’s Brooklyn

PYO Vegetables at Bangkok’s New Farm

Steps with Theera

Rice: The Unsung Hero