Bangkok 101 July-August 2019 by Talisman Media

Adventures in Food

A community of like-minded nomads, united in the pursuit of food; from chefs and restaurants to street food, culinary events and international forums. Come and discover a new culinary universe with us. See the website for future events.

www.gastronauts.asia

publisher’s letter

elcome to another edition of Bangkok 101 magazine and to Thailand’s rainy season. This month started with a lot of rain and storm so do keep your umbrellas and ponchos at the ready when going out. In this issue of Bangkok 101, we have stories revolving around all things ‘green.’ You will find many fascinating features including one of many beautiful Bangkok’s green lungs: Forest in the City or ‘Pa Nai Krung’ which also graces the cover (pg 14), a visit to the very first department store in Bangkok (p16), Nancy Chandler Map announces its closure (pg 18), invigorating reads about Spanish Superchefs (pg 22) and the commissary kitchen (pg 26) and more. Upcoming event to noate include another exciting installation of multimedia art exhibition at River City Bangkok. While another mustnot-miss food event and dining extravaganza has to be the release of an impressive lineup of visiting chefs from Michelin starred restaurants coming to Bangkok for the 20th World Gourmet Festival at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, a glimpse into the Boutique Farmers’ ‘reverse farming’ methods and many more delectable dining options available in Bangkok and beyond. This issue is sure to make your mouth water. Get in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond, visit Bangkok 101 archive and all other stories Enjoy. online at www.bangkok101.com. We always strive to bring the best and most valuable content to you, our valued readers, and if you feel there Mason Florence are things we’re not covering Publisher but should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.

WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

BANGKOK 101 PARTNERS

bangkok101.com

JUL/AUG 2019 | 5

Dr Tom Vitayakul

A Bangkok-born and internationally bred aesthete, Dr Tom Vitayakul brings the best stories of creative minds and artistic souls to life from traditional to contemporary, to avantgarde about their visions, inspirations and creations. FB/IG: @tom.vitayakul

Joe Cummings

An Award-winning writer, Joe Cummings was a New Orleans native who became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide and several other titles and updates for the region. FB/IG: @joecummings

Rosalind Yunibandhu

Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. She believes that food offers much more than just means of sustenance, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

Our roving roadside gourmand, she knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. IG: nymster

Samantha Proyrungtong

Australian-borne entrepreneur with Thai roots, founder of Bangkokfoodies.com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community who has become a wellknown voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. FB: @bangkokfoodiesthailand IG: @bangkokfoodies

14 city pulse 10 14 16 18

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on in the months of July and August in Bangkok Best of BKK Forest in the City, PTT brainchild project Best of BKK Bangkok’s first and still operating department store My BKK Say goodbye to Nancy Chandler’s colourful map

publisher editor-in-chief associate publisher managing editor editor-at-large associate editor art director graphic designer strategists

Mason Florence Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond Tipparnee Prajakwit Morgan Thanarojpradit Joe Cummings Sithasa Kanchanavijaya Narong Srisaiya Thanakrit Skulchartchai Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

contributing writers

Samantha Proyrungtong Korakot Punlopruksa Tom Vitayakul Rosalind Yunibandhu

general manager senior sales manager assistant sales manager distribution

Vittoria Dell’Anna Ornuma Promsrikaew Kanyaporn Veeratat Pichet Ruengjit

Bangkok 101 is available at:

36 snapshots 22 26 28

Now New Next Interviews with Spanish Superchefs Joe’s Bangkok Always Bet on Black Very Thai Longtail Boats and Thailand’s historical barges

travel 30 34 36

The Royal Project Thai Avocados Hail to Thai avocados Boutique Farmers James Noble returns to nature with ‘plant to plate’ concept

art & culture 40 42

Art Exhibitions The Italian Renaissance multimedia art exhibition at River City Bangkok Photo Feature ‘Demonic’ photography exhibition, Kathmandu Photo Gallery

food & drink 48 50 56 57 58

Aroy The House on Sathorn welcomes ‘Paii’ 20th World Gourmet Festival Anantara Siam Bangkok to welcome renowned guest chefs to its outlets this September Kitchen Backstories From bean to bar—to the world Eat Like Nym Eating local at Skyhigh Bitchin’ in the Kitchen Stars and gripes

80 60 66 70

Restaurant Reviews Paii modern Thai seafood, Spectrum Lounge & Bar, Char’s Surprise Menu, Shirokane ToriTama Breaking Bread with Chef Puvadej Teachajirattakarn, Water Library Chamchuri Food & Drink Listings

night life 76 78 82

Nightlife Updates Reviews Mixx Discotheque, Saturday Social at ABar, SEEN Restaurant & Bar Nightlife Listings

signing off

96 Signing off Did you know? Thailand National Parks

contents Table of

jul/aug 2019

On the cover

A brainchild project by PTT Public Company Limited, the award-winning Metro Forest Project aptly named ‘Pa Nai Krung’ or ‘Forest in the City’ successfully transformed 19,200 sq m of abandoned land into an educational centre, public park and an outdoor exhibition space. PUBLISHED BY Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 | Fax: 02 286 7829 | bangkok101@talisman.asia ©Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CITY PULSE | metro beat

jul/aug

beauty

jul 11-13

Bangkok Beauty Fair (BBS) is a World Premier Beauty Trade Show and business-oriented beauty event incorporating all aspects of innovative and aspiring global beauty products. Product sectors include cosmetics, perfumery, hair, nail, health & beauty products, machinery & equipment, packaging, OEM/ODM, manufacturing, and salon & spa. Bangkok Beauty Show runs from 10am to 6pm at BiTEC Bangna (Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre). It is the sister event of K-Beauty Expo Korea, the largest beauty expo in Korea. www.facebook.com/pg/ BangkokBeautyShow

music

jul 24

The Irish boyband Westlife returns to Bangkok to celebrate their 20th anniversary with The Twenty Tour concert at Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani with many fan favourites from the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;90s include Fool Again, If I Let You Go, My Love, etc. Tickets start from B2,500. www.thaiticketmajor.com

spa

aug 20

The Chainsmokers announced the launch of their World War Joy Asia Tour as soon as they released their two latest top hits Kills You Slowly and Who Do You Love, featuring Five Seconds of Summer, from World War Joy album. Tickets start from B2,500. www.thaiticketmajor.com

jul 1-sep 30

SO Pampering, an hour-long aromatherapy massage exclusive treatment, is available at SO/ SPA, SO Sofitel Bangkok with Japanese facial technique ritual Ko Bi Do for B3,500 per person (from B6,700). It is a holistic approach to lift and notify facial contours and renew smooth and plump lines on the face and neckline. For more information or booking, please call 02 624 0000 or email H6835-TH2@ sofitel.com. Advance reservations are highly recommended. 10 | JUL/AUG 2019

pet

jul 4-7

Thailand International Dog Show (TIDS) at IMPACT Exhibition Centre, Pak Kret is the largest and only dedicated dog care exhibition in ASEAN. From 10am to 8pm, it hosts over 200 local and international booths of the latest dog care products, food, and services and acts as a cost-effective platform. Highlights include dog fashion shows and competitions. www.thailand-dogshow.com bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | metro beat

aug 12

Since His Majesty King Maha Vajiralongkorn Bodindradebayavarangkun announced his marriage to Gen Suthida Vajiralongkorn na Ayudhya, who is now known as Queen Suthida, her birthday on 3 June has become a national holiday. And 12 August remains Thailand’s Mother’s Day.

food

until jul 31

‘Prawns Ja Season 2’ dinner at NOVOTEL BANGKOK FENIX SILOM buffet is back with a new concept, “Everywhere we look, we see prawns!” Expect various prawn specialties, a rotation of prawn and shrimp selections is also available. The feast is served daily until 31 July for B1,299 per person. Book online to enjoy up to 50% off at B650 net. Accor Plus members get a special price at B550 net per person. Visit http://bit.ly/2HgnE7f or call 02 206 9291-2.

sport

travel

book now

Hong Kong ultra-luxury package by Cathay Pacific offers special flight+hotel package. Fly Business and stay at one of the most celebrated hotels in Hong Kong. Book now to earn up to 2,000 bonus Asia Miles. For more information, visit www. cathaypacific.com (direct link: https://bit.ly/2WRHoDK).

aug 22-25 aug 24-25

Accredited by the World Organization of Athletics (IAAF), the Asian Athletics Federation (AAA) and the Athletics Association of Thailand, Bangkok Midnight Marathon 2019 sets out at 12:59am on Sanam Chai Road and ends at the Giant Swing around 7am, running past some of the city’s iconic sites including Democracy Monument, King Rama V Monument and Rama VIII bridge (42.1km in total, popular among professional athletes). www.bangkokmidnightmarathon.com 12 | JUL/AUG 2019

Thai International Travel Fair (TITF) provides travel based services, tourism and transportation, aviation services, packages, and holiday services associated in the travel & tourism industry. From 10am to 9pm at IMPACT Exhibition Centre, visitors will be able to choose from various cost-effective and inviting packages at their convenience. www.titf-ttaa.com bangkok101.com

CRU CHAMPAGNE BAR AT RED SKY Centara Grand at CentralWorld, Bangkok T: +66 (02) 100 6255 E: cruchampagne@chr.co.th Champagnecru.com Champagnecru

Cruchampagnebar

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Pa Nai Krung

Increasing Bangkok’s diminishing green spaces by Morgan JT

t can be said that the City of Angels is in dire need of more green space. According to the data collected by the Environment Office, Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) in 2013, it is reported that Bangkok has 5.01 sqm green area per capita (calculated based on Bangkok population of 5,702,595 from 28,579,009 sqm green area). Luckily, many organisations are taking up the challenges with numerous green projects in the city much like this one—the awardwinning Metro Forest Project by PTT Public Company Limited which received LEED Platinum NC green building certification. 14 | JUL/AUG 2019

The project transformed 19,200 sqm abandoned land on Sukhapiban 2 Road into an educational centre, public park and outdoor exhibition space with more than 60,000 trees of more than 279 unique species planted in over 75% of the area. It was to commemorate HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn’s 60th birthday while raising environmental awareness and educate visitors about local forest ecology. The construction began in May 2013 and the park was open to the public in 2015. Then PTT CEO, Dr Pailin Chuchottaworn adopted the afforestation method invented

by an award-winning Japanese botanist, Dr Akira Miyawaki. It involves planting multiple types of trees per square metre to create a forest-like ecology. This helps shorten the maturing time considerably from what could have taken eight to ten years down to only three to five. This is but one of many PTT’s brainchild projects who has been bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

committing to afforesting more than a million rai across Thailand since 1994. And even after the projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s completion, Bangkok can still use more green areas. Today, the vegetations have much more room to grow into. Over the past few years, the land has turned into a beautiful luscious park featuring 200-metre long skywalk ten metres above the ground which leads to a 23-metrehigh observation tower offering 360-degree birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye view of the park and even Suvarnabhumi International Airport that is about 15 minutes away.

Guests can find various information panels along the skywalk which offer details about the surrounding plants and vegetation. There is a healthy blend of vegetations in the park with a small waterfall, streams and lakes. There is also a path shielded by the tree canopy visitors can walk through. There are also four 90-minute guided walks (9am, 10.30am, 1pm and 2.30pm) daily and available free of charge. Inside the exhibition building, visitors will find various exhibitions with details on afforestation, plant ecology and forest conservation. There are also various activities for all visitors such as taking home bangkok101.com

young seedlings to grow at home to either create their own backyard forest or bring them back to plant at the park after a few months to make sure the survival of the plant. There are small stairways leading to the roof of the exhibition building to a rooftop flower garden featuring various species of plants and flowers such as orchids. There are wooden seats built-in at intervals for visitors to sit and enjoy the view. The rooftop garden has a purpose in itself, rather than leaving a jarring site on one side of the park, the green and colourful flowers help blend the building with the forest while insulating it from the heat.

While the park is gigantic, the entrance is quite unassuming and easily missed with only one signage in Thai to mark the spot. Upon entering, visitors are greeted with a seven-minute introduction video (available only in Thai). At the end of the video, the far wall that was the projector screen swings open revealing entrance to the rest of the park.

Pa Nai Krung 8/6 Sukhaphiban 2 Rd Take Airport Rail Link to Ladkrabang Station then take a short taxi ride from the station. Open: Tue-Sun 9am-4pm Admission: Free www.pttreforestation.com JUL/AUG 2019 | 15

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

The NightingaleOlympic

Inside Bangkok’s first “Hub of Sporting Goods, King of Musical Instruments, Queen of Cosmetics” by Fha Kanch

rchaic mannequins in the display windows are dressed in slightly faded clothes, perhaps by sunlight or dust. Although the surroundings have changed, time stands still in The Nightingale-Olympic. Located in Phra Nakhon District, the design of this department store is preserved since 1966 despite recent paint restoration. At first glance, the building’s stark and cryptic exterior resemble a vertical maze in bright eggwhite yellow to match with canary letters on primrose red background signage. Unlike other retail establishments in the city, it provides no parking space, air conditioning, or escalators. What it offers though is quite quirky. The mellow clerks all wear yellow while the owner's cats wander the isles. The tranquil atmosphere embraces natural light and breeze from vintage metal fans. The main hall is divided into

16 | JUL/AUG 2019

sections. The glass counters on the left-hand side contain unarranged jewelries, observably outdated yet accompanied by updated price tags. The cornerstone of aged merchandise in this space is that unless an item is visibly priced, it is not for sale. Frequent visitors are long-term and returning customers, while some treat it more like an art museum. The true value of the notfor-sale goods depend on the eye of the beholder. While many commodities seem rare and almost collectible, colourful shirts and activewear can be purchased elsewhere. In the middle situated a beauty corner where one can have a seat in front of the large mirror and test products. Also showcased are classic wooden sports equipment, old Thai sports booklets and framed posters. The company was and is still noted for sporting goods, musical instruments, and cosmetics. It now sells Merle

Norman cosmetics, retro Wilson baseball bat, MacGregor softball, Korean judo dobok, and Carnival Creations lingerie online. The mezzanine floor is surrounded by aged musical instruments, retro board games and scattered fitness tools. A radio plays ‘80s Thai songs softly amidst the faded noises of the streets. An untouched collection of vinyl records is stacked horizontally in a cabinet, representing something valuable that is kept rather than used. The window shopping experience here is indeed not meant to be compared to typical local malls in this era.

The Nightingale–Olympic Co., LTD. 70 Tri Phet Rd Tel: 02 221 9733 Open: Mon-Fri 9am-5:30pm, Sat 9am-6pm www.nightingaleolympic.com bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Closing the Chapter

End of the Road for Nancy’s Chandler’s Maps by Amy Poulton

id you know about the sunflower field that blooms between January and February on Kaset-Navamin? How about the chocolate factory and breakfast café on Soi Phromsri? Or the scuba diving school located next to a 230-yearold Chinese-style mansion on the Chao Phraya River? These little notes, scribbled in a whimsical hodgepodge across Nancy Chandler’s hand-illustrated maps are just a few examples of the little jewels of discovery that have turned these helpful navigation tools into treasured souvenirs.

18 | JUL/AUG 2019

Nancy’s maps aren’t just maps, they paint the city with heart and soul. And that’s why it’s so sad to report that, after 45 years, Nancy Chandler’s maps are coming to an end. The next edition will only be available as a PDF and the publishing company is closing its office. “In 1974, my mother was asked to illustrate a map of Sanam Luang area for the American Women’s Club of Thailand,” Nancy’s daughter, Nima, explains. “But once she got there, she was completely lost and couldn’t understand what

was where. Her first map was her finding her way out! “After the AWC’s magazine published her map, readers called in to demand a reprint for more copies, then Nancy started her own prints, and everything grew organically from there.” Nancy Chandler’s maps provided a lifeline to expats at times when there were few English maps available, especially outside of central Bangkok, and road names in English were still uncommon. As demands grew from the international community, it also came from tourists visiting the city. bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

The maps expanded to include greater Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Nonthaburi and Hanoi, Vietnam. They also came highly recommended by Lonely Planet and Travel+Leisure; leading people to all kinds of secret places. “My mother loved the colours and spirit of Old Bangkok,” says Nima. “For me, I love that you can be watching a butcher scrub a pig’s leg in Chinatown, then just a few hours later you’re clinking glasses at a high society dinner!” After Nima joined her mother as business manager in the 90s, Nancy’s maps spread to over 200 shops in the region. Products diversified to include children’s colouring books, posters, gift wrapping paper, name cards, invitations and more. Part of the charm was Nancy’s artistic flair and the bold choice of colour; a rainbow palette with origins in Nepal, where Nancy’s art supplies were lost in transit, leading her serendipitously to traditional alternatives. Those hot pinks, electric blues, vivid yellows and vibrant indigos became her signature, colouring the way she saw Bangkok. Nima has inherited her mother’s optimism, as when asked about the closure of Nancy bangkok101.com

Chandler’s Graphics, she doesn’t dwell on the competition of Top 10 listicles or Google Maps: “The reaction to the closure has been amazing. Letters have poured in from fans all over the world, from respected bloggers to long-time expats and repeat visitors – in the office, we’ve joked that we should close every year! Often, we see the same phrase repeated: You gave us the confidence to explore.” In a city where the whizzing SkyTrain and traditional khlongs coexist and there’s a surprise down every soi, Nancy Chandler’s

maps showcased Bangkok as a bright kaleidoscope of possibility that dared you to step out of your comfort zone and discover something new. Although the prints of Nancy Chandler’s maps will be sorely missed, you can still find PDF versions via the website: nancychandler.net and some paper maps are available via Amazon and a few select shops. You’ll also see Nancy Chandler’s Graphics at The Citylife Garden Fair in Chiang Mai and the Ploenchit Fair, both in late November 2019. JUL/AUG 2019 | 19

Attico Italian Restaurant Radisson Blu Bangkok A casual dining venue in the city centre

ttico Italian Restaurant at Radisson Blu Bangkok hotel is considered one of several hidden gems everyone should visit more often.

comfortable chairs, large glass panes windows and even rooftop areas offer a beautiful view of the Bangkok skyline.

The restaurant exudes rustic charm with one wall decorated with shelves of wine barrels and red bricks lining the others, heavy wooden tables and

The Attico Italian Restaurant boasts a myriad of traditional Italian menus designed and created by Chef Danilo Aiassa. The spacious and comfortable

dining venue is located 28 storeys above the streets. The seating arrangements offer plenty of space and options from casual gatherings of friends, business meals or a romantic night out with that special someone. An array of signature dishes include the refreshing bruschetta mixed tomatoes topped with buffalo mozzarella cheese (B280++) which awakens the palate for more dishes to come. Next up was a large hot-out-of-the-oven serving of Pizza Montanara made with soft pizza dough topped with rich buffalo mozzarella cheese, tomato sauce, flavourful homemade fennel sausages and salty Guanciale Ham (B490++). As if that wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t filling enough, the following menus came in the form of homemade ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta cheese served with spicy tomato sauce, pesto sauce that stimulates the taste buds topped with pine nuts for good balance (B410++); followed closely by mouth-watering beef carpaccio

with Chiodini mushrooms, sliced pickles, shaved parmesan cheese topped with aromatic truffle oil (B550++). The concluding dessert came in a tall glass of delectable, sweet and sour lemon sorbet with dashes of limoncello layered with the almond sponge (B320++), just another perfect ending for a meal well done.

Brewski

The 30th floor is home of Brewski rooftop beer-bar where guests can drink in the beautiful sunset paired with ice cold beers of your choice. Bites here are great as well while the view and the atmosphere are really the main course. Sports fans ahoy, stepping down one storey to the 29th floor to find Brewskiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bar area where guests can enjoy an array of beers while cheering on their favourite teams. Radisson Blu Bangkok hotel is but a short walk away from BTS Asoke or MRT Sukhumvit station.

Attico Italian Restaurant

28F, Radisson Blu Bangkok, Sukhumvit Rd. (Soi 27), Klongtoey Nua, Wattana Tel: 02 302 3333| Open daily during 18.00-24.00hrs. (last order 23.30hrs) For more information or reservation, contact: attico.bangkok.blu@radisson.com

www.facebook.com/atticoitalianrestaurant

SNAPSHOTS | now new next

Albert Adrià

Air croissant Cep oxidado y a la brasa con chalota

Spanish Superchefs

from Enigma

Meet Albert Adrià, Juan Mari and Elena Arzak, and Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch, whose stars shine brightly among global culinary luminaries Curry verde de pistacho, pomelo y papaya

pain has drawn attention on the gastronomic radar with fantastic restaurants and creative chefs for decades. With copious accolades, Spanish chefs and their premises have led the culinary world into the 21st century with their modernist methods, ingenious flavour combinations and unusual surprises. After Ferran Adrià closing elBulli, one of the world’s most awarded and significant

22 | JUL/AUG 2019

restaurants, classic and modernist places have gained high praises and prizes. Among them, Arzak (no. 31), Tickets (no. 32), and Disfrutar (no. 18) are listed in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018. In Barcelona, Albert Adrià, Ferran’s younger brother, has built the elBarri Group, a gastronomic empire with multi restaurants: Tickets, Enigma (no. 95), Bodega 1900 for traditional tapas, Pakta for Nikkei cuisine, Hoja Santa and Niño Viejo for Mexican. Albert reminiscences, “In 1984 I was only 15 and hung

out in discotheques. I needed to work and my brother needed a cheap labour. I worked at different stations at elBulli. I had inclinations towards patisserie and desserts. So in 1987 and 1988 with the elBulli laboratory, I worked as pastry chef.” In 1997 Albert set up elBullitaller, the elBulli workshop, as their conceptual and practical research and development section, which grew into a cornerstone of their cutting-edge culinary creations. After elBulli closed in 2011, Albert opened the elBarri Group, bangkok101.com

now new next | SNAPSHOTS

“elBarri’s concept is restaurants as gastronomic amusement parks. They are tools to express ourselves gastronomically. Surprises are very important. So I’m thinking about some changes for different experiences next year. “I never thought that I would open something like Enigma after elBulli. We finally decided to build this from the ground up. Enigma takes elBulli’s spirit but it doesn’t pretend to be. We have 41 staff for 29 clients. It turned two years old in January and never stops growing. Each day, we develop further. “At first we have some concepts for food and experiments. Now we have both concept and style. Each restaurant makes me question about their ideas and solutions. Food is neither art nor science. It’s not cerebral, but down-to-earth. We work with seasonal ingredients and a large recipe catalogue of Mexican, Peruvian and Japanese cuisines.” At Enigma, guests move and dine through six spaces, from the Reception to the Lounge, the Seafood, the Table, A la Plancha, and the Bar for desserts. He explains, “It took a while to find the language or the style but I found it. We have different styles for each space. There’s no definition but the core is that the products and the results have more heart and lightness, with more freedom to create. “We research and create dishes from ingredients with 16 specialty chefs. Each time it becomes clearer on how things work and which to serve where. These incredible chefs work on concepts, possibilities and excitement. They are the brain— the ‘Think Tank’ for the group.” He enthuses, “I believe in my team of 41. Without them, my work is impossible. The first year is usually difficult. This investment is a dream. After Tickets, this is a high-level cuisine, the best in the world. bangkok101.com

Elena Arzak and Juan Mari Arzak

“Spain has been in the forefront of gastronomic experiences with recipes, product quality, and good chefs. Food congress has helped share what we have learned. It’s one of the best places in the world to eat. In the end, cooking is an attitude and routine. Perfection doesn’t exist but it’s important to understand and strive for. Sometime I really don’t understand my madness for perfection. Perfection today will not be perfect in the future. The vanguards today will become the classics in 20 years—the modern classics.” He concludes, “After 34 years, I have seen some toughest times. The most modern things can be in touch with ancestral legacy. Many times revolution means doing nothing and looking back. Good chefs combine traditional and modern techniques—good becomes spectacular. The idea is holding on to the tree of tradition with the other hand for innovation. Enigma is not the apex of my career. I’ve opened Cakes and Bubbles, a pastry shop in London. When I die, I could be famous for pastries if it’s successful. In the end, I’m the chef who learns from mistakes—but not too many. Otherwise, it will explode!”

Across to San Sebastián, the Basque Country, along the Atlantic coast, Juan Mari Arzak Arratibel and Elena Arzak Espina, the fatherdaughter duo have achieved fame and fortune at Arzak. Their family history started in 1897 when Juan Mari’s grandparents established a wine inn and tavern in Alza village. He recalls, “My first memories took place here. It was a tavern until my parents took over. Their skills and efforts were highly recognised. Soon their reputation started to spread. The restaurant became renowned and specialised in banquets for family celebration. My father died when I was young and my mother went on struggling and working on her own. She kept improving the banquets’ quality and attained local prestige. She became so popular for all kinds of celebrations from weddings to baptisms and communions. He continues, “In 1966, after my studies in the School of Hosteleria, the military service and practices abroad, I started working here. In the beginning I specialised in roasted meat on charcoal. My mother was a patient and constant teacher who revealed all the gastronomic secrets. With curiosity and will, I learned and worked on new creations.” JUL/AUG 2019 | 23

SNAPSHOTS | now new next Ostras a la brasa

In 1967 Juan Mari met Maite Espina who became his wife and a part of the restaurant. He says, “She brought her talent in service, style, decoration and administration. Together we continues to improve and progress. I’ve evolved within the Basque cuisine, adding new elements. It has been an adventure in renewing and actualising the cuisine without forgetting the tradition.” In the mid-1970s Juan Mari was in the nouvelle vague of the New Basque Cuisine movement and received many awards and honours, including the first Michelin star in 1974 and the second in 1977. Arzak became the point of reference for Spain and international gastronomy and in 1989 earned the third star. Yet his pride and joy are also his daughters, Marta and Elena, who works alongside him. He enthuses, “Elena is completely involved in the management and still widens her professional knowledge. She also runs the restaurant and continues this tough task. I appreciate the changes that she brings. 24 | JUL/AUG 2019

The three chefs’ families inspire them to become chefs. Their grandmothers, mothers and fathers can cook very well. In high school, Oriol thought of studying Marine Cultivation but he chose cooking because he always saw his mother and grandmother preparing traditional dishes. As Lenguado en Caña an excellent student, Eduard’s family wanted him to study law Carabineros con krill or medicine but he wanted to be a farmer. Loving the land and working with his hands, he decided to learn to be a chef. Mateu’s parents have a restaurant in Roses, Costa Brava, where elBulli was. So he started working there at first. They met at elBulli where Oriol started in 1996, Mateu in 1997 and Eduard in 1999, from Arzak and worked until the closing where they learned two lessons: My family’s fourth generation the importance of respect devotes to the catering business within the team and the daily and enthusiasm for fine cuisine. improvement—to be self-critical Without Elena, this cuisine would and to progress day by day. be impossible.” The trio muse, “All things can Elena, a polyglot, studied and inspire us. Our aim is to create interned in Switzerland, England, new things—concepts, techniques and France, had short stints at and new flavour combinations elBulli and Pierre Gagnaire. In with seasonal products. We have 2001 she was first bestowed Chef a creative space to arrange or to de l’avenir 2000 and continues to store information we generate but receive many awards including we test things in the main kitchen. Best Female Chef in the World Sometime out of 20 combinations, Veuve Clicquot 2012. only two work. Under our She states, “My father leads judgement, a dish is perfect when the kitchen with the team’s it has excellent flavours and great collaboration and mine. We textures. But then, you have to work in tandem. We describe taste it in the menu because it Arzak’s food as a cuisine with a could taste different on its own distinct Basque identity, both or as a part of a tasting menu. We contemporary and researchoffer creative cuisine with taste based.” as the main proposition. If a dish Back in Catalonia, three elBulli has an amazing presentation but alumni, Mateu Casañas, Oriol it doesn’t taste good, then it isn’t Castro and Eduard Xatruch opened good. It won’t be a good memory Compartir in Cadaqués in 2012. In for diners.” 2014 they created Disfrutar with They clarify, “When we work, avant-garde cuisine and strong we are one person—with three Mediterranean roots and signature brains, six eyes, and six hands! dishes like macaroni carbonara Our culinary philosophy and with transparent pasta. Their creative approach is a result modernist magic attained The of working together for many Miele One to Watch Award 2017. years. We discuss on what works, bangkok101.com

now new next | SNAPSHOTS Eduard Xatruch, Mateu Casañas and Oriol Castro

what doesn’t, and how to move forward. We have quite honest opinions and sincerity is vital. We have different strengths—Mateu is very organised; Oriol has a gift of gap; and Eduard excels at execution. But we change roles frequently and we develop different tasks randomly. The most of important thing is that we are a team—we and the rest of the team. Unity creates force.” On success, they declare, “We are totally satisfied to see guests feel happy after the meal. That’s the most important. Obviously, it’s nice that our works are recognised by experts with all the prizes and awards. It helps us go on and gives us more confidence. As business owners, we’ve learned from our enterprise and teambuilding. We have a lot to reflect. So with three heads, we can make decisions with more conviction.” They conclude, “Our plans are to keep improving creatively and to have a solid business and a united team. If people talk about Disfrutar in the future, we hope that it will be with excitement and respect for our cooking. It will be interesting to see others bangkok101.com

Black cauliflower with coconut and lime bechamel

Macaroni carbonara from Disfrutar

use our techniques like multispherification and “panchino” or flour-free mille-feuille. If this helps them, we will be happy.” These

Multi-spherical tatin of corn and foie

superchefs have certainly made their marks by bringing Spanish cuisine into global gastronomic legacy.

NOW NEW NEXT

A Bangkok-born and internationally bred aesthete, Dr Tom Vitayakul brings the best stories of creative minds and artistic souls to life from traditional to contemporary, to avant-garde about their visions, inspirations and creations. JUL/AUG 2019 | 25

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Always Bet on Black who presumably lacked the cash for fat white hogs with bloodlines stretching back to Denmark, f you run with the in-crowd Belgium, England, or New Jersey. amidst Bangkok’s fickle foodie Over the last three or four scene, you already know that years, that once-widespread Thai black pork—meat from locally attitude has been changing. raised black pigs—is a mad trend Chandler Schultz, head chef at at the moment. Bangkok’s Le Cochon Blanc (which Thailand is a bit late to the ironically means ‘the white pig’ in black pig trend compared to French), is a big fan of local black the rest of the world. England’s pork, for example. Berkshire black pigs have been “We’re known for using the praised for centuries, and more finest imported ingredients,” says recently Kurobuta—which simply Schultz. “I import probably the means ‘black pig’ in Japanese—has best butter in the world, I have become as popular an export for amazing Atlantic seafood, and I Japan as Wagyu and Kobe beef. have really great Australian beef. In Korea, pork lovers are crazy for I believe those products are the Jeju Black Pig, a small domestic best, so that’s what I use. pig found on the island of Jeju-do. “But when it comes to pork, Then there’s pata negra (black I would rather serve Thai-raised hoof), the Iberian black pig of Spain black pork than Japanese Kurobuta and Portugal. or Spanish Iberico. It’s the marbling, I remember it wasn’t that many the texture, and most of all the years ago that Thais considered flavor of local black pork that sets it black pigs to be the exclusive apart from anything else I’ve tried.” domain of northern Thai hill tribes, I recently visited a pig farm in

26 | JUL/AUG 2019

Sanpatong, about 30 kilometres south of Chiang Mai, owned by American expat Randall Ellis. After a successful IT consulting career in the States, Ellis came to northern Thailand, married a Thai lady named Surin and established Surin Farm on three rai near her village. “I fell in love with the pigs very quickly,” Ellis said while showing me around his exceedingly wellkept farm. “They’re smart, they love people if you treat them well, and they grow a lot of meat real fast.” Ellis’s farm caters to three main local markets. Piglets reared from birth to around 25 days old are sold to Thais who are raising a few pigs on smaller farms along with other animals. Some also go to Thai farmers who are establishing satellite pig farms as part of a cooperative Ellis hopes will help maintain steady supply lines to Bangkok. The farm’s surprising middle market buys small- to mediumbangkok101.com

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS

sized pigs to offer at village ceremonies and feasts. In fact, many of northern Thailand’s mountain inhabitants raise pigs primarily as a source of sacrificial animals for spirit worship, to assure against possible financial difficulty or crop failure. Hilltribe peoples will only use native black pigs for this purpose. But the high-dollar market, for Ellis’ farm, consists of hogs he raises up to at least 100 to 110 kilogrammes, the optimum weight for the finest cuts of pork. Although many of Surin Farm’s 500+ pigs are red Duroc or white Landrace, black pigs take on the most value because of their highly desirable pork, especially among chefs and consumers in Thailand’s ever-growing fine-dining arena. Surin Farm pigs from this market level are sold under the cozily named Family Farms label. Ellis treats his pigs exceptionally well. Farm pens are designed to allow plenty of space for exercise (Ellis refuses to follow the freerange trend, believing it puts the animals at greater risk of infection), and are cleaned twice a day. Only a few meters outside the pens, his pig farm is virtually odor-free. The farm is ringed by trees and thick vegetation, whose leaves capture drifting smells which are then rinsed into the ground when it rains. The chemical-free farm also employs a small methane gas plant to clean wastewater and protect the air. For his efforts, Thailand’s Department of Livestock Development (DLD) has certified Surin Farm as training farm for pig farmers around the country seeking more sustainable methods of animal husbandry. The United Nations Environment, Asia and the Pacific Office in Bangkok has also recognised the farm as a model of sustainability. But it’s not just keeping a clean shop that makes the farm’s black pork taste so good. “First off you have to find the best pigs bangkok101.com

for breeding,” says Ellis. “Then you have to feed them right and keep them healthy. We don’t use hormones and will only resort to antibiotics when an animal is actually ill.” “Equally important is to treat the pigs with loving care right up until harvesting, when we arrange a quick and humane death. Lots of studies show that stressed-out pigs deliver lousy meat.”

fresh” says the chef. “We also plan to make our own bacon, sausages, smoked hams, and our own French-style charcuterie such as pates and terrines. We’ll go for porchetta, chops, loins, and fillets for main menu items, and turn the bits and pieces into other things.” Ellis’s staff grilled thick slabs of pork loin in the farm kitchen for Scholtmeyer and myself to try. Both Scholtmeyer and I

I toured the farm accompanied by Antony Scholtmeyer, executive chef at Capella Bangkok, a new 101room luxury hotel slated to open on the banks of the Chao Phraya River later this year. Scholtmeyer, who formerly helmed Michelin-starred Elements at the Okura Prestige, was equally impressed with our stroll through the pig pens. Scholtmeyer made contact with Ellis in order to establish a steady supply of black pigs for the Capella’s commissary-style kitchen, which will buy primals (basic large portions of the pig, numbering three or four) and then do the butchering on site at the hotel. “That way we can get exactly the cuts we want, and they’re

agreed it was an amazing mouth experience. “The wagyu of the pork world!” he proclaimed. Even buying large primals, the cost of black pig is high, but for Scholtmeyer it’s not an issue. “It’s all about value in context,” he says. “And in our context black pork carries good value for the money. It’s a premium product, so we charge a premium price.” “I also like that it’s a local product. As a chef concerned with the local economy and sustainability, I try to use products that are as authentic and local as possible. Plus, the Thai black pig comes with a story, a mystique about it, that sells, like Thailand itself.”

Joe’s Bangkok

Photo: John Goss

Philip Cornwel-Smith

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Longtail Boats & Barges Water instincts guide life on land

“

oat building was, and still is today, the best example of Thai carpentry which, in turn, must be one of the most precise crafts in the world,” writes architect Sumet Jumsai, showing nostalgia for the disappearing Siamese water culture. “The crafts are the product of the tranquil riverine condition and an expression of an organised society.” That tranquility now shatters when an outboard motor saws past. Pootling sampans wobble in their wake, though never seem to capsize. Waves that sloping

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 28 | JUL/AUG 2019

natural banks once absorbed now rebound off vertical concrete antiflood embankments. Just as hooking a motorbike to a rickshaw created the tuktuk, so bolting an Isuzu pick-up engine to a boat made the ruea hang yao. Named ‘long-tail’ after a trailing drive shaft that can turn through 270°, the long, sleek craft is tailored to cramped shallow waterways. Traditionally made of takian wood and lacquered with go-faster stripes, the hull tapers like a scimitar to a raised, needlesharp prow. Its roof displays the telltale arc of all Siamese boat

canopies, only made of deckchairhued plastic rather than of bamboo, thatch or galvanised iron. The passengers shelter behind plastic sheeting to avoid spray as the unmuffled engine rips through turbid khlong or salty shoreline, scattering swimmers and rattling nerves as the sound reverberates off cliffs and buildings. “The Isuzu is more powerful and economic than other car engines. Plus it’s faster and quieter now we use a turbo,” hollers Piya through the din at a Bangkok pier, which all seems to be run with the mafia muscle of a motorcycle taxi rank and are notorious for tourist scams. Serving as bus or taxi, large and small longtails weave deftly between barges, which glide gently by. The humped carapace of a fully loaded barge resembles a giant beetle swimming, with eyes painted on the stubby bow, and water lapping at the gunwales. Handsomest among these cargo vessels are the twin-ruddered ruea iamchun (salt boat) and dumpier ruea kracheng (rice barge). Formerly inched along by a punt, and later by outboard longtail propeller, these takian-wood tubs got replaced by larger barges of steel.

“Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture and an influential must-read among foreigners and Thais. It guides you on an unconventional technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand Thai. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic and snap up a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

Bangkok's first Neo indian - Urban farm based fine dining restaurant 231/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | T. 02 258 4744 | E. reservations@haoma.dk

www.haoma.dk

Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang Accommodation

TRAVEL 101 T

Considered an epitome of sustainable work methods, much can be learned from the Royal Project, Thailand Set up as a non-profit organisation, it is an umbrella organisation for charitable initiatives and research. Established in the reign of the late King Rama IX, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej had always paid careful attention to preserving Thailand’s natural resources while improving the people’s quality of life. The project’s initiatives were clearly aimed to help support and guide Thai farmers to be more self-sufficient by growing and harvesting seasonal and rotating crops so they can earn better living all year round. The Royal Project foundation is an invaluable resource for the nation. The indispensable research and experiment conducted help explore ways to cultivate different crops and plants that are most Office Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station suitable for the local climate and can be replant without damaging the soil, or how one type of Mae Lod Royal Agricultural Research Station crop should be replaced by another seasonal Royal Agricultural Station Pangda crops throughout the year to keep the soil healthy and promote best possible produce. The Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon, Gate House With bases located throughout Thailand and four main research centres located in the north, the Royal Projects specialises in educating staff and local farmers specifically on winter plants and ranching in cold climate. The four research centres include the Office Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station; The Royal BANGKOK Agricultural Station Inthanon, Gate House; The Royal Agricultural Station Pangda; and the Royal Project Research Station Mae Lord in Chiang Mai. There are also 39 other development centres dispersed in six provinces in upper part of northern Thailand include: Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Phayao, Lamphun and Tak provinces. These are community-based and are located on highlands with aims to rehabilitate quality of life and restore the region’s valuable environment and natural resources. Some hubs are open to public, acting as popular ecotourism locations welcoming tourists who wishes to discover and experience the lifestyles of various hill tribes as well as explore various farming activities and beautiful nature. www.royalprojectthailand.com

Royal Cliff Hotels Group Exquisite design providing luxurious comfort in Pattaya

or over four decades the multi award-winning Royal Cliff Hotels Group has been a widely known hospitality landmark. It is conveniently located in the exclusive and picturesque part of the vibrant city between Pattaya and Jomtien. Overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, the estate provides 5-star amenities to local and international visitors with beachfront settings, traditional Thai style decor alongside a touch of modernity all presented by the spirit of the State of Exclusivity and Fascination. A recent major overhaul has elevated the hotel to the next level by presenting an authentic experience that reflects Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heritage, Royal Cliff consistently evolves with time, adapting its facilities and putting forward various promotions.

The Bar and Bakery at the Royal Cliff Beach Hotel has been transformed into a conducive social space where guests can engage and interact with each other. Boasting a more contemporary interior, it overlooks the pool and highlights the same clean concept of the new hotel lobby. The reconstruction further extends to the Mini Suites and the brand-new Ocean Deluxe, featuring a modern design that combines comfort with serene white and sandy tan accents. Its luxurious marble bathroom and new amenities are accompanied by innovative lighting and sheer space. The private balcony and fresh sea breeze also capture the spirit of the coast with uninterrupted incredible views of spectacular sunsets and the ocean.

Guests can dine at the newly renovated Panorama Pool View and Sea View created to give a warm and relaxing atmosphere with higher ceilings and brighter walls. Uniquely intimate and blurring the lines between indoor and outdoor, the perfect fusion of both comes to life with large windows, wooden furniture and natural hues. With seven stunning swimming pools in the property, guests are spoilt for choice. The new swimming pool at Fitz Club - Racquets, Health & Fitness has been transformed with beautiful trees and fun sliders in Amazon ambience to delight families with children. The visual treat and free-form facility integrate the natural elements of the surrounding landscape complete with stones and sprinklers. The piscina is also a sanctuary for weddings, receptions and other important outdoor events. The Royal Cliff Hotels Group has built an enviable reputation as Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier resort convention destination that offers versatility as a one-stop solution

for any gathering and celebration. Besides offering an upgraded Business Centre & Beautique Beauty Salon, one of its most popular meeting rooms, the Royal Summit Chamber, contains flexible mobile partitions that can be turned into two smaller sections complete with a satellite kitchen attached for seamless F&B operations and a spacious foyer for coffee breaks and pre-function cocktails. This events and meeting space is engulfed in natural light and spectacular sunsets in the evenings. The eye-catching entrance with tranquil water attribute and new lobby at the Royal Cliff Beach Hotel also await. There is nothing quite like a good nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rest at the Royal Cliff Hotels Group after a long day. The unmatched standards in design, comfort, and luxury are accentuated by legendary hospitality. With its elegant and up to date features, it accommodates your needs making it a truly unique experience every time. To receive the best rate for sea view room (starting from B4,000) and earn many more benefits, book directly with Royal Cliff.

353 Phra Tamnuk Rd, Pattaya T. +66 38 250 421 ext. 2878 E. creative@royalcliff.com www.royalcliff.com

@Royalcliff

TRAVEL | royal project

Welcome to Thai Av cado Season The future of local green fruit worth keeping an eye on by Fha Kanch

t was in the year 1969 when His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej The Great (Rama IX) visited Doi Pui village near Bhubing Palace in Chiang Mai. The trip was to observe the villagers’ lifestyle and well being, however, he saw how these people were struggling with poverty. With their main source of income coming from cultivating and growing opium even though picking and selling local peaches could earn just as much income. His Majesty then 34 | JUL/AUG 2019

began a project to better the villagers’ well being by supporting Kasetsart University to conduct researches to grow and continue to nurture temperate fruit crops suitable for Thailand’s climate and geography. The project grew and continued to become the Royal Project Foundation today. While the initial objectives were to help tribal community cut down on the destruction of natural resources such as deforestation and water/river

sources, the project also expanded to eliminate opium plantation and conserve the soil to make more efficient land use. Multiple organisations and volunteers including academics joined forces to develop the plan with great progress, farmers eventually and effectively replace opium crops with various kinds of vegetation that earn them a more sustainable living. Royal Project Market aims to offer product satisfaction and bangkok101.com

royal project | TRAVEL

transparent information as well as much needed support for national and international market expansion. Some of the recent visions are to bring about more income and jobs for agriculturists, stimulate regional economics by passing on technological knowhow and reaching all agricultural targets with the production factors to revitalise the industry altogether. Among over 15 categories of products with a majority being fresh vegetables and beauty or spa products, Royal Project now period, skin colour changes is the best indication for its readiness but this also differs depending on the type. For the Royal Project avocados selection, Boot 7 is the trickiest as its skin remains green even when matures; Buccaneer changes from green to yellow; the stalk of Boot 8 changes colour instead of the skin; Peterson also turns greenish yellow; while Pinkerton and Hall switch from dark green to purplish green; and last but not least Hass goes from green to black. This also depends on the ripeness preference and what kind of menu carries at least 30 types of fruits typically exported from Australia, is involved. including the coveted avocados New Zealand, and Mexico, not The quality of Thai avocado (Boot 7, Buccaneer, Boot 8, only in terms of cost and origin but trees relies on Royal Project hill Peterson, Pinkerton, Hall, and also the taste profile, texture and tribe growers in the north who finally, Hass species). ripening process. usually raise avocados from Their rather neutral flavour July marks the opening of the seedlings due to insufficient profile allows the avocados to be avocado season in Thailand and planting materials. As a result, paired with almost any ingredient the best time of the year to buy avocados planting, marketing and menu, both sweet and and binge on until late September, and utilising in Thailand seems savoury. One of the pairings that while the Hass variety season to grow on a much slower rate the Royal Project Pop-Up Market starts from August and lasts until and are lesser-known than other proudly presented was ripe the end of the year or longer if tropical fruits, even though their avocado chunks served with the cooler weather prevails. nutritional value is not any less refreshing coconut ice cream, with Cutting the fruit open at the than international standards. optional extra Japanese red bean exactly right moment is obviously There is still room to grow yet, topping. critical because it no longer literally. High prices of imported ripens after the flesh is exposed. Sources: avocados in Thailand (as much We all know the temperamental www.royalprojectthailand.com as B100 per fruit or more in nature of avocados, cutting www.royalprojectmarket.com general supermarkets) make these too soon would be a bust and www.fao.org/3/x6902e/x6902e0b. Royal Project avocados become leaving them for too long would htm favourable alternatives to those be a waste. During the ripening bangkok101.com

JUL/AUG 2019 | 35

TRAVEL | upcountry now

Boutique Farmers Returning to the roots and the beginning of a new journey

36 | JUL/AUG 2019

bangkok101.com

upcountry now | TRAVEL

merging into the lush green land in Pranburi District, rows of greenhouses and growing patches are a welcoming sight. Echoing laughter can be heard coming from the unassuming structure ahead where the chef and proprietor of the Boutique Farmers, James Noble, discussed all things food and plants with his guests. Practically growing up in the hospitality industry, the ability to drop off the grid and do a sustainable, low-carbon operation has always been his end goal. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Boutique Farmers is a zero carbon-footprint, organic, sustainable restaurant where the menu changes on a daily basis, depending on the available ingredients and produce,â&#x20AC;? said James. However, his aim was not to flood the market with the products. His outlet is established to give chefs exactly what they

bangkok101.com

JUL/AUG 2019 | 37

TRAVEL | upcountry now

need to create that perfect dishes they want for their restaurants. “It is a unique operation. It is a reverse farming project where people instruct us about what they want us to grow or tell us the quantity of products they want and we’ll tell them how much 38 | JUL/AUG 2019

space they will need to realise that and how much the rent would cost. “To guarantee that our products reach the chefs in prime, ultimate condition, we do the delivery ourselves,” he added. The reverse farming allows the farm to grow just what a chef

needs within months. Some of his clientele include Gaa (Michelin Plate, Best Female Chef 2019), Sühring (one Michelin star), and Paste (one Michelin star) to name a few. Of course, this requires a lot of homework done in order to study and/or create the perfect bangkok101.com

upcountry now | TRAVEL

conditions the plants or produces need to grow. The point, he said, is to hopefully let chefs mull over the available local ingredients they could use when designing a dish or a menu rather than ordering in from abroad just because they can. Not only specific to growing plants, they also raise geese, goats and mussels in Sam Roi Yot district nearby while seafood and other meat items are sourced from fishermen, chicken and pig farmers when required. Serving a small number of guests on a weekly basis, there is really no clear cut ideas of what bangkok101.com

will be on the plates until Thursday when the harvest come in, then only by Friday that they will have four appetisers, four main courses and four desserts finalised. Saturday will see bistro menus and some tapas sets, while Sunday features a brunch with an amalgamation of all things available cooked in different ways so there is no repetition of any food during any particular weekend. Only 30 kilometres from Hua Hin, Pranburi is short of four hours on an easy drive from Bangkok and Boutique Farmers is surely worth a visit, food enthusiasts or not.

Boutique Farmers 297 Moo 4, Pak Nam Pran, Pranburi Tel: 081 266 7800 Open: Friday, Saturday 7pm-10pm Sunday 10am-3pm www.theboutiquefarmers.com www.facebook.com/bootiquefarmers JUL/AUG 2019 | 39

| ART & CULTURE

Italian Renaissance

A New Multimedia Exhibition World Premiere

ollowing the highly successful exhibition From Monet to Kandinsky, Visions Alive, the exhibition displays works of four legendary artists from the Renaissance: Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael, and Botticelli. It is also a serious educational platform, developed and designed by VISION MULTIMEDIA PROJECTS with multichannel animation graphics, dozens of modern beamers of the highest resolution, huge screens and surround sound. At the beginning of the 15th century, Italy experienced a cultural rebirth that would massively affect all sectors of society. Turning away from the preceding Gothic and Romanesque periodsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; iconography, Florentine artists spurred a rejuvenation of the glories of classical art in line with a more humanistic and individualistic emerging contemporary era. Based in the flourishing new environment that empowered people to fully immerse themselves in studies of the humanities, funded by the generosity of the Medici family, Early Renaissance artists began to create notable work intensified by knowledge of architecture, philosophy, theology, mathematics, science, and design. The innovations that emerged in art during this period would go on to cause reverberations, which continue to influence creative and cultural arenas today. From 8 August to 31 October

RIVER CITY BANGKOK

1F Unit 182, Charoen Krung Soi 24 02 237 0077 ext.182 | Daily 10am-10pm rivercitybangkok.com

facebook.com/bangkokartmap bangkok101.com

JUL/AUG 2019 | 41

Art & Culture

Photo Feature

Kathmandu Photo Gallery proudly presents

‘Demonic’

An Exhibition of Photography by Akkara Naktamna July 6-August 31 How is horror achieved with such simple props? Akkara Naktamna’s camera has the supernatural capacity to capture crystal clear portraits of ghostly beings. With the aid of a powerful flashbulb, he’s made visible the full variety of demonic infestation, all the hidden fiends that lurk beneath the hallowed monk’s saffron robe, exploiting faith for selfish gains; who with dirty black hands grab all their hearts’ desire: gold, status, every worldly pleasure. A productive young photographer with a marked sense of humour, Akkara Naktamna makes fun of the ecclesiastical world which in recent years has fallen far from grace, continually shocking the public with corruption scandals like the epic Temple Fund Fraud over taxpayers’ money that sent many high-ranking monks to jail while others fled abroad. The saffron robe–‘the Cloth of Yellow’–is no longer the uniform of those seeking liberation from suffering, but a cash cow costume that any Thai man, even those not of sound mind, could put on to make an easy score. ‘Demonic’ is therefore reflecting contemporary Thai society by posing the riddle: “So how can we tell them apart? Which is which, ‘monk’ or ‘demon’? Akkara Naktamna (b. 1979) a software engineer and self-taught photographer, is a member of Street Photo Thailand. His work has been shown in many international photography festivals such as Miami Street Photography Festival 2013, Singapore Photo Festival 2016 and Photo Bangkok Festival 2015 and 2018.

Kathmandu Photo Gallery

87 Pan Rd (near Indian Temple), Silom | T: 02 234 6700 | kathmandu.bkk@gmail.com Open daily except Sunday and Monday, 11am-6pm www.kathmanduphotobkk.com

ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

until jul 21 EAT

100 Tonson Gallery 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd | 02 010 5813 Thu-Sun 11am-7pm | 100tonsongallery.com “EAT” is an epilogue of a decades-long project which Takanobu Kobayashi, one of the most influential contemporary Japanese painters, initiated since he moved to Bangkok in 1996. The exhibition consists of paintings and photographic installation, presenting series of tableware paintings along with photographs of actual meals. The exhibition will be followed by a one-month residency period where Kobayashi will use the exhibition space as his studio, research hub and classroom.

until jul 21 YOU LEAD ME DOWN, TO THE OCEAN Nova Contemporary GF Baan Somthavil, Mahadlek Luang Soi 3, Rajdamri Rd 090 910 6863 | Tue-Sun 11am-7pm novacontemporary.com

The exhibition by Tada Hengsapkul presents the memories of the Vietnam War and its consequences, the military power, traces of individuals’ relationship and some perspectives from the “little people” seen in their writings. When the treasuries of knowledge and memory, both in public institutions and private sector, were explored in the process of artistic creativity, archival objects and records that have been waiting to be legitimised as historical narratives became art objects.

until jul 27 IN x Visible

Joyman Gallery 357-359 Maha Chai Rd | 065 124 2222 Tue-Sun 11am-8:30pm | joymangallery.com In x Visible art exhibition by three young artists, led by Napat Pattaraponlerd (The Impact of Personality), Panyawat Mahantapan (The Reveal) and Sompop Techamangkhanon (The Pink Blood). They put forward aspects of human beings that are hidden, concealed, or made invisible to be presented openly in the form of paintings, with the heart being the essence of human physical expression expressed by various thoughts and emotions. This leads to the creation of charming and unique identities. 46 | JUL/AUG 2019

bangkok101.com

exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

until jul 28 One breath at a time

Le Link Gallery BKK 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | 095 591 5014 Wed-Sun 12pm-6pm | lelinkgallery.com Pryia Cornelia Link’s beautiful abstract expressionist characters of Chinese ink and other textures—each born from a moment in time and breath—dance among emotive abstract acrylic and oil landscapes in a suspended animation of movement, moment and chance. This body of work is a meditation on the breath, the body and the unison of the self and the brush in an action of surrender. Our breath is omnipresent, vital, and yet we so often forget and ignore its presence.

until jul 31 The Lady on a White Horse

Tang Contemporary Art 3F Golden Place Plaza, 153 Rajdamri Rd | 02 652 2732 Tue-Sat 11am-7pm (closed on public holidays) tangcontemporary.com Taking the lead from the pervasive folklore of supernatural beings of Southeast Asia, the exhibition by Yuree Kensaku engages with the notion of heroes and superheroes kindled by religion, social culture and superstition as a way to escape the worldly realm. This is based on a well-known myth in Thailand known as The Lady on a White Horse. While some people claim a famous Thai monk devised the tale, the prophecy tells of the day Thailand will be saved by a woman on a white horse.

until sep 15 Reality as it isn’t

Subhashok The Arts Centre (S.a.c.) Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 | 02 662 0299 | Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6pm facebook.com/sacbangkok Starting on 20 July, “Reality as it isn’t” is the solo exhibition by Uttaporn Nimmalaikaew in Subhashok the Art Centre which has taken the artist two years to complete. Uttaporn’s art pieces explore the nature of vulnerability with the disconnection of desire, and draw a connection to this behavior which results in a confusing presence that emanates distress and detachment. The artist creates artwork; to reflect the mental turmoil that is caused from suffering from desire. bangkok101.com

JUL/AUG 2019 | 47

Chonburi Squid at Paii, The House on Sathorn

AROY

(means tasty)

Paii, modern Thai seafood in an iconic setting in the heart of Bangkok The House on Sathorn welcomes Paii, heralding a new chapter in the culinary scene at the historic 130-year old landmark, offering the best of local and imported seafood. Executive Chef Joe Weeraket presents a menu bursting with flavours. Highlights include local Giant River Prawn, French Razor Clams and French Turbot. The signature Giant Crab Fried Rice is made with organic jasmine rice from Nakhon Pathom and topped with no less than half a kilogramme of freshly steamed Surat Thani mud crab meat. For reservations, contact 02 344 4025 or email thehouseonsathorn@whotels.com www.paiibangkok.com

Come rain or shine, head up to Red Sky for lunch or dinner this rainy season Alfresco dining deck at Red Sky restaurant on the 55th floor of Centara Grand at CentralWorld is available in the shade for lunch 11:30am-2:30pm and dinner 4pm-1am daily until 31 July 2019. For impromptu downpours, simply escape inside the air-conditioned dining room which still boasts high-rise views across Bangkok. The fine-dining menu and a la carte selections feature Lobster Salad, North Atlantic Salmon Tartare, Lobster Bisque Soup and more. For more information and reservations, call 02 100 6255, or email diningcgcw@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com/redsky

Special Motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day Sunday Brunch at Up & Above On 11 August, 12pm-3pm at Up & Above restaurant, take your beloved mother to brunch for B2,800++ per person including free-flow mocktails and soft drinks; B3,500++ including selected free-flow wines, Prosecco, local beers, cocktails, mocktails, and soft drinks; or B4,100++ per person for the full Sunday Brunch. A cornucopia of international and local delights await on the 24th floor of The Okura Prestige Bangkok. For information and reservations, contact 02 687 9000 or email upandabove@ okurabangkok.com www.okurabangkok.com

20 Years of Gastronomic Journeys Calling all gastronomes! World Gourmet Festival returns again to Anantara Siam Bangkok in its 20th edition, more ready than ever to throw a big feast packed with world-class chefs preparing dinners, masterclasses, and deliciously exciting events.

ll foodies of Bangkok eagerly wait for that one particular week every year in anticipation of the World Gourmet Festival. Mark your calendars for this year’s festivities which will take place from 2 to 8 September at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, where a galore of gourmet delights have been prepared for this celebratory 20th edition. This year’s line-up includes chefs from eleven international Michelinstarred restaurants, while a special six-hands dinner on 6 September featuring two Taiwanese chefs Kai Ho of Taïrroir with Richie Lin of Mume and Ian Kittichai of Issaya Siamese Club from Thailand.

WOLFGANG BECKER

Becker’s Restaurant (Germany) Wolfgang has been working in his family’s vineyard ever since he was a child. Following an apprenticeship as a vintner and as a chef, the German-native then worked as a chef at various Michelin-starred hotel restaurants across Germany such as Restaurant Scheid, Altes Badhaus, Restaurant Imperial, and Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube. In 1995, he returned to work at his family’s hotel, Becker’s Hotel & Restaurant, before officially inheriting the property from his parents in 1997. Wolfgang introduced a great transformation and redesigned his hotel using Bauhaus influences and straight lines. The gourmet restaurant inside his hotel, Becker’s, has maintained their two Michelin stars since 2009, where Wolfgang is also the chef. Alongside his dishes that are always clear, authentic and honest, is an impressive wine list that showcases the finest German wines from the Becker’s vineyards that Wolfgang oversees all production.

The spectacular meals will be held at the hotel’s four main dining establishments—Madison, Spice Market, Shintaro, and Biscotti—while two special Diageo Nights will take place in Aqua. Masterclasses will take place throughout the week, as well as a Chocolate Masterclass with Afternoon Tea, Sunday Brunch and a snazzy Gourmet Street Food Fair. The festival is also proud to continue supporting HRH Princess Soamsawali Krom Muen Suddhanarinatha HIV Prevention Fund. Proceeds from the auction, which takes place during the festival, plus B600 per dinner ticket sold, will all be donated to the charity.

KAI HO

Taïrroir Restaurant (Taiwan) Born and raised in Taichung, Taiwan, Kai started his culinary journey by working in Michelinstarred restaurants in the United States, China and Singapore. He opened his first restaurant Taïrroir in 2016, which later earned its first Michelin star in 2018, followed by another one in 2019. The modern and stylish restaurant is one of the 17 restaurants to be recognised in the inaugural Michelin Guide Taipei. His cooking influences take notes from Chinese to French cuisine, with authentic Taiwanese spirit and passion. Bringing an extensive cooking experience from all around the world to his dishes, Kai insists on deconstructing the classic dish and presenting it in a new way while preserving its original spirit.

ALAN GEAAM

Alan Geaam (France) When Alan first arrived in France two decades ago, he was homeless and worked as a dishwasher. It was only when the cook at the restaurant he was working at accidentally cut his hand that Alan stepped in to help out—and with great success. The self-taught chef started cooking while doing his national service in Lebanon, where the colonel of his regiment became so impressed he made Alan his personal chef. Alan’s namesake restaurant is just a stone’s throw away from the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Alan Geaam received its first Michelin star in 2018. The French Lebanese chef whips up original recipes that combine French culinary heritage with Lebanese tastes.

CHIHO KANZAKI and MARCELO DI GIACOMO Virtus (France)

Chiho and Marcelo have both watched French cuisine from their native Japan and Argentina and fought to learn with great chefs. Both have laid their foundations for their cooking together at renowned restaurants, particularly at the three Michelin-starred Mirazur in France. They opened Virtus together in the spring of 2016 and received their first Michelin star in 2019. During their free time, Chiho and Marcelo visit new territories in order to discover products and tastes to sublimate. A constant dialogue between the two companions creates a cuisine that is graceful, frank, tonic, yet audacious. Passionate about aromatics, the chefs distill them in all their dishes until desserts.

HERVÉ DEVILLE

Momo (United Kingdom) Hervé is a French chef who first earned his stripes as a Sous Chef at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in Ireland and as Head Chef at Wenge in Luxembourg. However, he is best known for his role of over seven years as Executive Chef at Pierre Gagnaire’s acclaimed two Michelin-starred restaurant Sketch in Mayfair. Now onto new adventures, he has been recently appointed as Executive Head Chef at Momo, which showcases his perfect balance of light Mediterranean dishes with hints of North African flavours. Hervé is also one of the co-founders of Peel Foods, an office catering in London that gives a lunch experience by top chefs for office workers.

ANDREA SPAGONI BeefBar (Hong Kong)

Andrea’s food journey and curiosity for cooking since he was 10 got an unconventional jumpstart from his mother—because she didn’t know how to cook. His career is infused with traditional elements of Italian cuisine and cutting-edge thinking of visionary chefs, having worked in Italy, New York and London. During his stint at Le Siepi from 2006 to 2009, his talents were acclaimed by a well-respected independent food critic, who mentioned his creations on the influential website “Los mejores de la gastronomia.” In 2010, Andrea was instrumental in earning one Michelin star for Pier Bussetti, a restaurant he co-owns in Italy. His star-studded record has resulted in him being featured in many television shows and magazines for his expertise. In 2011, he moved to Hong Kong and is currently appointed as Executive Chef of Beefbar Hong Kong, a stylish and experimental concept revolving around beef.

HAJIME & SO OTOWA Ciel et Sol (Japan)

RUI SILVESTRE

The Otowa brothers follow the footsteps of their restaurateur father, Kazunori Otowa, who is both chef and owner of Otowa restaurant in Utsunomiya, Japan. Hajime, the first son, worked in a few restaurants in Japan before moving to Lyon, France, where he did stage at the three Michelin-starred Alain Chapel. Besides continuing his father’s legacy as Executive Chef at Otowa restaurant, Hajime has also supervised the menu of first class flight meals for Japan Airlines and the menu of luxurious Train Suite Shiki-shima operated by East Japan Railway Company. His younger brother So previously worked at twoMichelin star restaurant Le Mange-Tout in Tokyo, before moving along to Annecy, France, where he did stage at Le Belvedere. In 2016, he became Executive Chef at Ciel et Sol in Tokyo, which gained one Michelin star within a year of opening. Currently, So is supporting the family business along with his brother, Hajime.

Vistas (Portugal)

Rui gained motivation for new dishes and gastronomic development by working at French, Swiss and Hungarian restaurants for seven years. In 2015, the Portuguese native earned his first Michelin star in restaurant Bon Bon, located in Algarve, Portugal, thus becoming the youngest Portuguese chef ever (at 29 years of age) to win this coveted award. In 2017, he was one of the 10 chefs around the world to receive the “Prix au Chef de L’Avenir,” awarded annually by the International Academy of Gastronomy (IAG) to the world’s most promising young chefs. Combining French techniques with his love for Portugal, his dishes turn the sea’s finest products into an innovative experience to evoke all the senses.

YOJI TOKUYOSHI Tokuyoshi (Italy)

Rebellious and hungry at heart, Yoji left his small hometown in Japan and moved to Tokyo when he was 18 to attend catering school and then worked in numerous Italian restaurants. At the age of 27 in 2004, he bought a one-way ticket to Italy in search of work until he finally got a call from three Michelinstarred Osteria Francescana in Modena. After 10 years as sous chef at Francescana, Yoji opened his own restaurant in Milan, Tokuyoshi, in 2015. It was awarded one Michelin star within the same year. Offering what he calls “Contaminated Italian Cuisine,” Yoji brings together the beautiful traditions of Japan and the classical flavours of Italy to infuse meaning and tradition behind every dish and the way you eat them.

ANGEL ZAPATA MARTIN Barrafina (United Kingdom)

Barcelona-born Angel is the ultimate figurehead for authentic Spanish tapas in the UK. After graduating from Hofmann School of Hospitality in Barcelona, he got his big break working with Santi Santamaria, the first Catalan chef to get three Michelin stars at his restaurant Can Fabes. Following another brief stint with renowned chef Pierre Gagnaire, Andrea worked as a private chef in Ibiza, San Tropez, Megeve and London to make dishes for his illustrious clients. But missing the calls and camaraderie of the kitchen, he brings his talent and boundless energy to Barrafina in London as their new Executive Chef. His natural Catalan upbringing and search for the best ingredients is reflected in his authentic Mallorcan menus and authentic tapas.

HIDEKI II

Shirosaka (Japan) Hideki was born and raised in Tokyo. He had trained in a Japanese restaurant and obtained cooking and sommelier licenses, before an encounter with Tetsuya Wakuda altered his path to Australia. He moved to Sydney to work at Tetsuyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, and became the first Japanese sous chef at the worldwide renowned restaurant. He also went to work as a chef exclusively for the residence of the UN ambassador in New York, before returning to Japan. In 2014, he opened Shirosaka, which is named as one of the 50 Best Restaurants in the World. Developing his cuisine from personal taste and research, Hideki combines traditional and modern techniques into the kapporyori style, also known as the less formal cousin of kaiseki cuisine.

RICHIE LIN

Mume (Taiwan) Richie was a relatively latecomer to the food industry, having began classes at Le Cordon Bleu in Australia after obtaining his master’s degree and working for another year. To make up for his lost time, he exposed himself at one of the topnotch restaurants in world, Noma. It was cooking in Copenhagen with its unfavourable climatic and geographic conditions, that taught him to discover different possibilities in the local ingredients. In 2014, he co-founded Mume with another two chef friends. Using the abundant, untapped and underrated local resources of Taiwan, he applies modern European techniques to create the cuisine at his casual fine diner. Mume, the name of the plum blossom and national flower of Taiwan, also shares the same Chinese characters with Richie’s mother’s first name.

IAN KITTICHAI

Issaya Siamese Club (Thailand) Despite being one of Thailand’s most prolific chefs who represents Thai cuisine on the world stage, Ian’s humble beginnings date back to childhood days when he pushed a cart through his Bangkok neighborhood to sell food his mother made. Rising through the ranks after graduating from culinary school and an apprenticeship in French fine dining in Sydney, Ian was the first Thai national to become Executive Chef of a five-star property in 1998 at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok (currently Anantara Siam Bangkok). Best known for combining authentic Thai cuisine with a global standard of contemporary hospitality, Ian has founded and partnered in restaurants around the world, including Spot Dessert Bar in New York, Issaya Siamese Club and Namsaah Bottling Trust in Bangkok, and Tangerine at Resorts World Sentosa Singapore.

ROGER VAN DAMME

Master Pastry Chef (Belgium) Roger is a Michelin star pastry chef born in Oostburg, Netherlands. With his outstanding skills, he developed a delicate and technically advanced savoury repertoire next to his strong sweet oeuvre. Many of his original and highly decorative plate compositions have become famous in the culinary world. He first established himself by opening Het. Gebaar in 1994. In 2010, the lunchlounge restaurant in the beautiful botanical gardens of Antwerp received its first Michelin star. In that illustrious year, he was also named Chef of the Year by Gault Millau Belgium and got his own cooking programme on Njam! Previously, he was active on other television programmes such as Mijn Restaurant and MasterChef. It’s not every year that World Gourmet Festival turns 20, so get ready for a week of the finest and most delicious delicacies you can savour. For more information about who’s cooking what, where and when, please visit www.worldgourmetfestival.asia or call 02 126 8866 ext. 1707 email: wgf.asia@anantara.com

FOOD & DRINK | kitchen backstories

Kitchen Backstories From bean to bar–to the world

he thin, brown paper sachet feels delicate in my hands—its refined, matte texture interrupted only by a smooth, salmon-pink pentagonal label. The artwork features a playful, yet cryptic, array of symbols: rays of pink light emitting from a green sun, and colourful beans tumbling from mountain-like shapes. In the centre dance a male and female couple: two halves of a single cacao pod shaped in a heart—holding hands and revealing a deep pink core bursting with yellow confetti. What this all means, it seems, we’ll discover upon experiencing the contents. Tearing the top off this petite packet feels almost like a trespass; yet, I go ahead. Shaking the envelope gently, my reward inches out: a glistening, wafer-thin bar of dark chocolate. No extravagant debossed logos or psychedelic patterns here: just 24 small oblongs, each patiently waiting to be discovered. I snapped off a tiny 1cmwide block. As it melts in my mouth, it reveals a tantalizing poetry of flavours: a dark sweetness that, in time, unveils a complex fruitiness reminiscent of red berries; a noticeable acidity— but one that’s well-balanced by a round nuttiness. Moments later, I feel a palpable lift in energy, clarity and focus—and reach for more. This 22g of goodness is the chocolate of Shabar, an emerging micro-batch chocolate producer Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. She believes that food offers much more than just means of sustenance, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods

56 | JUL/AUG 2019

based in Bangkok, founded by 30-year old Narut Ampakorn. Narut’s calm demeanour and measured tones belie his fiery passion for this dark ambrosia. He is part of the growing collective of young Thai craft chocolate makers seeking to elevate Thai cacao and chocolate—and put them firmly on the map. When he’s not exploring the country’s hinterlands for quality cacao, you can find him deep in R&D, concocting new formulas and techniques, facilitating workshops with renowned expert Hazel Lee—or working alongside some of Bangkok’s finest F&B establishments (including Asia’s top 50 bar, Teens of Thailand). Cacao has actually been growing in the kingdom for over a century, though it only began to be seriously researched and produced around 40 years ago. Initially brought to Asia by the Spanish via the Philippines, the superfruit eventually made its way to Indonesia and Malaysia—and was from there introduced to Southern Thailand. While the majority of cacao is today produced in Chumphon, a large proportion is also grown in the north, in Chiang Mai; producers are now also emerging elsewhere—including Prachuap Khiri Khan, Chiang Rai—and even Khao Yai. Indeed, the bar that I’m in the midst of demolishing is Shabar’s 70% cacao dark chocolate, made from 100% single-origin beans from Chanthaburi in eastern Thailand—a region usually best-known for its durian and snake fruit. As I finish my (Sha)bar, flip over the packet to examine the back label. The cacao couple now dance in the apex of the pentagon. Their epithet reads: ‘Heart-warming fine chocolate, crafted by Shabar to fill your day with happiness and ignite your bliss’. As I bound into my day with a newfound lightness and joy, I’d say it definitely delivers on its promise—and the artwork is a mystery no more. bangkok101.com

eat like nym | FOOD & DRINK

Sky High

n the main boulevard heading to the Grand Palace and the Royal Parade Ground close to the Royal Rattanakosin Hotel, there sits a place that no foodie should miss–a classic restaurant called ‘Sky High’. A local favourite that has witnessed and survived many important political situations. Besides Sky High’s reputation for exceptional dishes, it is also a meet-up place for all kinds of people from news reporters, poets, writers, politicians, activists, protesters, artists mixed with a family of regulars who are here to share the same things; good times, good food and real conversation. Sky High is turning fifty this year and remains a popular destination for all. It is owned by the same family and still continues to offer their original recipes and tastes. One of the dishes famous among Thais is Tom Super Kha Gai (chicken feet in herbal tom yum soup). It might make people turn their faces away from the graphic appearance but one should give it a try because the soup itself is so exciting with spiciness from chilli, sourness from fresh lime and up-lifting freshness of herbs. The benefit of the chicken feet is that it adds thickness to the soup’s texture and is full of collagen which benefits the elasticity of our skin. I love munching on them without thinking of any benefit beyond its texture! Another popular dish is Khao Ob Sapparos (pineapple rice with curry powder). Inside the hollowed-out pineapple used as the serving dish is Nym, as our roving roadside gourmand, she knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. IG: nymster bangkok101.com

the combination of al-dente fried rice with shrimp seasoned with curry powder giving an interesting twist of taste that has elements of sweet and sour of pineapple along with the tang and spice of curry. Another special offering is the dried bamboo soup made with a special type of bamboo that has been completely dried; when cooking, it needs to be treated by soaking in water overnight until the soft texture is restored. Again, this dish doesn’t look like anything close to photogenic but once I have it in my mouth, it flips me with the beautiful aroma and taste of fresh cut bamboo! The crunchiness of the young bamboo texture reminds me of chewing on big, fat, firm asparagus. To add protein to the meal I ordered Ped Palo (duck in five spices). The aroma of star anise and cinnamon arrives at the table before the dish. The soft duck meat and thin skin absorbed the juice like a sponge meeting water, adding a bit of excitement to the taste withe the chilli vinegar sauce. The heart of eating at Sky High is Khao Tom. My joy of eating here could almost come only from the aroma of the jasmine-boiled rice. It has its own life and texture that set a very high standard of what Khao Tom should be. Delicate, soft and soupy. There are not many places or times when rice is a star of the menu–yet here it is. The beauty of having a meal here comes from nothing fancy, just having a tender, warm and unforgettable food experience. Address: Sky High opens daily from 8am to 1am. Breakfast, lunch and late night meal is the same menu. It is situated on the left-hand side of Ratchadamnoen Khlang Boulevard when coming from the Democracy Monument, before the Royal Rattanakosin Hotel. Tel. 02 224 1947 JUL/AUG 2019 | 57

FOOD & DRINK | bitchinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in the kitchen

Stars and Gripes

ince the advent of Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 50 Best Restaurants in 2013 (and in particular 2016 and 2017 when the City of Angels hosted the 50 Best awards) and the first Michelin Guide Thailand in 2017, the buzz has been undeniable. But the feelings about the prizes from industry folk have been mixed: excitement and goodwill have lately been overshadowed by growing scepticism and even resentment.

Samantha Proyrungtong, and Australianborne entrepreneur with Thai roots, founder of Bangkokfoodies.com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community who has become a well-known voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. FB: BangkokFoodiesThailand, IG: BangkokFoodies 58 | JUL/AUG 2019

bangkok101.com

bitchin’ in the kitchen | FOOD & DRINK

Any informed foodie has heard the (unconfirmed) rumours involving the awards being beholden to the whims of sponsors or selection processes that benefit the highly influential. Many people are disillusioned by the uneven playing field between the restaurants that lavish all-expense paid junkets to attract potential influencers and possible voters and those that cannot. Others point to blatant conflicts of interest. Additionally, there are the restaurants that worked tirelessly to raise the exceptional standard of French, Italian and other cuisines in Thailand long before the trend for fine-dining boomed, but are now overlooked in favour of flashier venues both international and Thai. With all this drama being aired on social media, blogs and forums, I beg to ask: how do we fix it? Should the winners return their awards? Of course not. Frankly, not one establishment in Thailand bestowed with a Michelin Guide listing or 50 Best rankings has refused the honour, nor did they decline the free publicity and influx of customers that often (but not always) came with it. And you know why? Because they are happy to have it! If not for themselves, then at least for their team who are energised by the recognition and for all the people whose lives are affected by success. We

bangkok101.com

foodies know that owning a restaurant is notoriously considered the Russian roulette of the business world where failures far outnumber successes. Why then do some of us harbour so much animosity for the guides when they have driven a new breed of culinary tourism to Bangkok, giving Thailand something to brag about other than prostitution, tuk-tuks and picture postcard beaches? Don’t awards give the recipients a platform to dig deeper into their culinary roots, explore their creativity and promote growing movements like locavorism and sustainability? Do we even need to mention that the standard of cuisine has soared since Bangkok came under global scrutiny? Talented chefs have upped their game, competing for recognition that they couldn’t even dream of before. Even so, some may argue it has brought a commercial hunger with hotels, investors and yes, even some chefs, shamelessly developing brands designed to make the cut. So how do we see through the bull? Maybe it’s time to change the format of the awards, adding more transparency, more rigorous auditing and stricter regulations to keep sponsors, voters and their culinary cronies from being tempted to manipulate the system. Most of all, maybe instead of bitchin’, we should be eatin’, lovin’ and fixin’.

JUL/AUG 2019 | 59

FOOD & DRINK | review

Paii

A colonial-style dining venue in the middle of Bangkok’s business district by Morgan JT

riginally owned by Luang Sathorn Rajayukta since 1889, the House on Sathorn has been a long-standing landmark amidst the fast-growing modern surroundings. In 2015, W Hotel Bangkok decided to take on the ambitious project to restore the colonial structure with some additions. Today, it plays host to a modern interpretation of a Thai seafood restaurant named ‘Paii’ (meaning to paddle) presenting the best local and imported seafood menu in 60 | JUL/AUG 2019

honour of Luang Sathorn Rajayukta who also created the Sathorn canal. The dinner began with the savoury Yum Hua Plee Nuea Poo (B380)—banana blossom and fresh mud crab generously dressed with delicious and rich Paii chilli jam and lemongrass. It was a great start indeed. Next up was Larb Nhuad Pla Mhuek Yak Yang (B1,200)—an impressive display of a giant piece of Spanish octopus grilled to perfection on charcoal served with sweet, sour and spicy larb salad

dressing and mint leaves; every bite evoked fond memories of the deep blue and the smell of sea breeze. Followed by Khao Pad Ta Lay (B580)—a must-not-miss offering of aromatic fried rice with fresh scallops, squid and tiger prawns that is both familiar yet fulfilling in every bite. Another all-time favourite for many was Kaeng Leuang Nuea Poo Bai Cha Ploo (B850)—fresh blue swimmer crab served ‘in style’ with aromatic and creamy yellow curry with betel leaves. It is equally a feast for the eyes as it is for the taste buds when the wait staff brought out the dish and proceeded to pour the steaming hot curry into the bowl at the table for great effect. Then came an impressive serving of Nuea Yang Suea Rong Hai (B1,200)—crying tiger steak grilled on charcoal; the mediumrare supple meat served with a side of refreshing Thai herb infused dip that rounded the taste in every mouthful. To finish, we turned to the much-coveted dessert; Paii Waffle (B500), a combination of Hong Kong waffle, famous from the previous establishment at the same location but with a twist by the resident chef who craved to create something absolutely memorable. The new creation saw a large piece of Hong Kong waffle filled to the brim with sweet cream mixed with an assortment of sweet and sour fruits and berries topped with a helping of sweet and sour syrup for a beautiful balance.

Paii Modern Thai Seafood Restaurant W Bangkok and The House on Sathorn 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4025 Open daily: 12pm-12am www.thehouseonsathorn.com/paii www.facebook.com/paiibangkok bangkok101.com

20th World Gourmet Festival 2 - 8 September 2019 Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel

Sixteen Chefs. Eleven Michelin-starred Restaurants. Nine Countries. Seven Days. One Hotel. Please book early to avoid disappointment. For more information and reservations, please call +66 (0) 2126 8866 Ext. 1707 or email wgf.asia@anantara.com

WorldGourmetFestival.asia #WorldGourmetFestivalBangkok

FOOD & DRINK | review

Surprise Wine Pairing Menu When diners are at the mercy of the chef by Morgan JT

anting to exercise his creativity, the easygoing and soft-spoken Chef Nikolas Ramirez of Char, Hotel Indigo proudly presents the new ‘Surprise Menu’ concept. The special nine-course menu comes in an omakase-style dining option where the chef has all the say on what to serve. First up was smoked Hamachi served in chilli water with delicately sliced cucumber and sour mango. This refreshing dish was perfect to stir up the sleepy palate, preparing the taste buds for the journey ahead. Now that the taste buds are properly stimulated, a savoury plate of seared Maine lobster followed. The meat was served with caramelised truffle honey creating a perfect blend of creaminess, sweetness and smokiness in every bite.

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The Mexican-inspired grilled baby corn served with cream sauce and a dash of coffee powder to cut the taste with bitterness. Fried milk skin taco with truffle and cheese offers delightful mouthfeels. The burnt milk texture with cheese and delicate mixture of truffle made for a very attractive experience. Next came a confusing yet pleasant surprise, a savoury oddball of pickled white asparagus served with sweet caramelised white chocolate and a piece of pungent blue cheese which strangely balanced the flavours of the plate. Main courses started with Butterfish cooked to perfection with great texture while the taste is enhanced with sweet bread Nantua and a drop of hollandaise sauce. Another play on chef’s heritage, the chilli con carne–a 250-day grain-fed Wagyu steak

marinated in special sauce served with chilli and cream topped with onion and cilantro offers fulfilling taste and aroma in every bite. Winding down finally, desserts started with a homely pumpkin pecan pie with pumpkin confit and cream with cinnamon, ginger and clove; concluding the meal with a perfect palate cleansing freshness, raspberry cheesecake. The nine-course Surprise Menu is priced at B3,000 with an additional B1,400 for wine pairing (must be ordered by the entire table).

CHAR Restaurant & Rooftop Bar Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road 25F, 26F 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.charbangkok.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

merging onto the 29th floor of Hyatt Regency Hotel Bangkok, diners are greeted with an array of food, music, art pieces on display with access to a double-decked rooftop right in the centre of town. Resembling a couple’s penthouse living space, Spectrum is a casual dining rooftop that offers much more than great food, good music and a view. Each section of Spectrum Lounge & Bar presents different purposes that can be tailored to fit everyone’s needs whether it is a private dining room, a business dining occasion, a corporate event with facilities supported like the drop-down projector screen or an open expanse of the rooftop areas that can host from company parties to romantic dinner for two. The menu here is designed to be fulfilling so be aware that they don’t come in small portions when you order. A parade of signature dishes began with a hearty serving of delectable and crispy soft shell crab with sweet and sour tamarind sauce and taro fritter (B410). Next up was the imported cold cuts—a plate of five different delicately sliced cured ham and salami that offer delicious salty bites (B410); followed by the fresh and juicy rock lobster tail that comes with aromatic confit garlic and parsley (B580). Must-not-miss dishes include the perfectly grilled BBQ Wagyu beef finger ribs with delicious mushroom spinach salad (B850), followed closely by the savoury lobster roll that comes with big chunks of fresh and sumptuous lobster meat served with creamy sauce and a side of fries (B790). Since Spectrum is also a bar, diners have a variety of cocktails to choose from but the diners’ favourites include signature cocktails like Mad Mango—a chilled and infused Ketel One vodka with mango puree mixed with spicy mango, elderflower, bangkok101.com

Spectrum Lounge & Bar Dining in the sky

by Morgan JT

lime and chilli and salt on the glass rim (B280); or Hole in One—a cocktail with Tanqueray gin base mix with Cointreau, refreshing lemon juice, lemongrass, honey syrup, fresh orange juice and kaffir lime leaf to finish (B330) to name a couple. The lineup of DJs here will kick off the evening with relaxing yet upbeat house and lounge music that will gear toward more dance and electro beats as the night waned. With the breathtaking

view of Bangkok skyline in the background, this surely is one easily accessed rooftop bar to visit.

Spectrum Lounge & Bar 29-30F Hyatt Regency Bangkok 1, Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/thailand/ hyatt-regency-bangkok-sukhumvit/ bkkhr/dining JUL/AUG 2019 | 63

FOOD & DRINK | review

Shirokane Tori-Tama Japanese yakitori Tori-Tama style By Morgan JT

taying true to the path of sustainability, this yakitori restaurant is determined to make use of their ingredients in the most delicious way possible. Connected to the Orihara Shoten sake bar, Shirokane Tori-Tama is located in Parklane Ekamai, a short walk from Ekamai BTS Station. The restaurant was first established in October of 2016, however, businesses didn’t really pick up due to various factors, be it politics or economics. The restaurant started to grow its reputation more steadily among locals and expats alike in early 2018 and has been slowly picking up pace since. Tori-Tama yakitori refers to a specific style in delivering grilled skewer meat in Japan. Offering an array of staple menus, the deviation between other yakitori

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restaurants is the side dishes which are original creations by the restaurant’s head chef. Key into the sustainability model, the restaurant has been doing its best to not only serve the best quality and freshest meat possible, but also to discard as little as possible waste at the same time. The restaurant uses chicken bones to make the famous and unique signature soup and stock while every part of the chicken is tediously cleaned and prepared for the grill. Some parts landed in the ‘rare’ delicacies include the hen’s tail—firm and succulent tail-end meat of unfertilised hens; the Fallopian tube with unfertilised egg still attached and more. Not to mention the ‘secret recipe sauce’ that’s only known to the head chef, himself.

Helming the kitchen is Chef Toru Tanaka who brought with him the extensive knowledge of Japanese art of yakitori. Surrounding the open kitchen, the wooden countertop tables are the most coveted seats in the house where diners can see the chef and his helpers tend to the grill. One of the most mysterious and awestruck images has to be seeing Chef Tanaka fan the coal fire. Also recommended is the sake pairing menu options, just ask the wait staff, the experience is sure to be a most memorable one.

Shirokane Tori-Tama 18 Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekamai) Tel: 02 382 0141 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.facebook.com/toritamabangkok bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Chef Puvadej Teachajirattakarn Pioneering fine dining in Bangkok for ten years and counting Interview by Morgan JT

floor-to-ceiling column of water bottles dominates the interior of the Water Library Chamchuri. This location has been a staple figure in Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fine dining scene for the past ten years. Established in 2009 by Mr Pote Lee (aka Mr Lee), a global and local wine and water importer, Water Library received its name from his two favourite concepts; water and library. The restaurant is considered one of the trailblazers for Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fine dining scene.

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Recently celebrated its 10th anniversary, Water Library Chamchuri has consistently offered an array of culinary delights. Today, the restaurant presents modern European and Asian fine dining cuisine in a refined setting with its youngest and first Thai national chef at the helm, Chef Puvadej Teachajirattakarn or Chef Tle. He began his culinary curiosity early in his childhood watching his grandmother cooked and later pursue the journey of a chef in

late teen years. While studying at the Dusit Thani Srinakarin College, he was working part-time in different restaurants. His toughest trial came when he was apprenticing under Chef Mirco Keller at Water Library Chamchuri who has extremely high standards for every dish. Chef Tle, in his quiet and reserved manner, admitted that working and learning under Chef Mirco was some of the hardest years that helped shape his life. Today, he is the first Thai national bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

and also the youngest to hold the position of Chef de Cuisine at the Water Library Chamchuri. “You have to be very passionate and a little bit crazy to be doing this well,” he said. “I want to create menus that everyone can enjoy and remember for years to come. I want them to remember how happy they were eating here that they would bring their children and their children’s children to eat here. “I’ve combined the Western cooking techniques together with the unique tastes of Asian ingredients. This coupled with Water Library’s unique fine dining atmosphere, I believe we can deliver on our promise,” he mused. Today, Chef Tle works closely with Chef Haikal Johari, the longtime executive chef at Water Library, to bring diners the best and most creative menus. The first dish was one of many signature dishes inspired by the Japanese Zaru Soba or cold Soba. Cold Pasta—soft pasta served with chi-o Wakame, seaweed from the deep sea from Japan with supple bangkok101.com

and delicious Hijiki mushroom, Tasmanian abalone shell and truffle oil. The combination offered wonderfully balanced flavours in every bite. Another savoury signature appetiser is homemade tofu cooked to a crunchy crust on the outside yet soft and fluffy on the inside served with a unique sweet and salty foie gras emulsion sauce, Shitake mushroom, topped with crispy fried garlic, dried bonito (crispy fish flakes) and fresh leek. The combination of sweetness in foie gras emulsion, the saltiness of the dried bonito and the texture of both tofu and fish flakes made for wonderful mouthfeel that leave diners hungry for more. Next up was Chef Haikal’s famous signature, Chilean sea bass. A high fat cut of Chilean sea bass pan seared to a crisp finish on the outside while leaving the meat juicy and on the inside served with grilled mushrooms, bacon, crunchy ragout in a special recipe of yuzu ponzu cream sauce. Finally, we arrived at the dessert Chef Tle is very proud

of. Water Li-BEAR-Ry—a cute and smiling bear-shaped dessert made from fragrant roasted black sesame seed served with blackcurrant jam and hot ginger and churros on the side to complete the meal. Inspired by Bua Loy Nam Khing (black sesame dumplings in ginger tea) dessert, Chef Tle decided to create something reminiscing of his childhood menu with a cute and modern twist. Raplacing the dumplings with the friendly little bear, this is definitely a must-try menu. With a mission to make delightful dishes that will bring happiness for generations of people to enjoy, remember and return for more, we believe Chef Tle has, at least, accomplished part of his goals.

Water Library 2F Chamchuri Square 317 Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 095 085 7777 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm Email: chamchuri@waterlibrary.com JUL/AUG 2019 | 67

FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

Catch of the Season at Kisso The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 | www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com Kisso Japanese Restaurant at The Westin Grande Sukhumvit emphasises on true taste of Japan according to each season’s specialties to offer Japanese cuisine lovers quality Ishidai and Hamo special menus. Now, ‘To Everything A Season’, as summer reaches its peak, sources two premium oceanic delicacies–Hamo (Pike Conger) and Ishidai fish (Strip Beakfish)–to inspire a supplementary menu of dynamic dishes daily for lunch and dinner from 1 July to 30 August 2019, starting from B350++.

Fantastic French Pastries at Treats Gourmet Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok, 28 Charoenkrung Soi 70 Tel: 02 307 8888 | www.chatrium.com/chatrium/riversidebangkok Whenever people visit France, one of the things they fall in love with is the classic French patisserie shop. They are always full of decadent baked goods and it is almost impossible to try just one sweet treat. But this month, you can indulge some of the finest Opera Cake, Mille Feuille, Lemon Tart, Blueberry Mousse Cake, Apple Butter Pie and Paris Brest. For more information or reservation, contact 02 307 8888, visit www. chatrium.com, or email dining.chrb@chatrium.com

Seafood Weekend BBQ at Latest Recipe Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, 789 Moo 14, Bangna-Trad Rd | Tel: 02 118 7722 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm | www.facebook.com/favolasuvarnabhumi Every Friday and Saturday are buffet and barbecue evenings featuring seafood and meat cuts such as river prawns, squid, Norwegian salmon, etc. plus barbecue specials from charcoal grill with a variety of seafood on ice and plenty of dishes cooked live from the show kitchen as well as desserts. Priced at B1,490 net per person including free flow soft drinks, coffee and tea, book online to enjoy 20% off at bit.ly/LM-Online-Deals, e-mail: fb.lmsb@lemeridien.com, or call 02 118 7777.

Saturday Night Street Food and Seafood Buffets Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu Tel: 02 236 7777 | www. Shangri-La.com/bangkok Street and seafood night is available every Saturday at NEXT2 CAFÉ (B2,300 net per person; half price for children 6-11 years old). The ongoing promotion shares some of the famous street food recipes alongside traditional Thai dessert and seafood from live-cooking stations. For more information and to make a reservation, call 02 236 7777 or 02 236 9952. Email restaurants.slbk@shangri-la.com or book online at www. shangri-la.com/bangkok/shangrila/dining/restaurants/next2

New Sunday Brunch at The District Grill Room & Bar Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 Tel: 02 797 000 | www.marriott.com A-la-carte selections and highlights include grilled river prawn, wild Hokkaido scallop, foie gras on brioche toast, Australian lamb chops, Australian Stockyard Wagyu striploin and grilled fish of the day, priced at B2,800 net per person. An unlimited beverage package is at B3,700 net and a premium Champagne package is at B2,100 net. Sunday Brunch is available on all Sundays 11:30am-3pm. For further details or reservations, please call 02 797 0000 or email diningbangkok@marriott.com 68 | JUL/AUG 2019

bangkok101.com

Up & Above Sunday Brunch In a major city as vast as Bangkok, there is a myriad of things to choose from and this is absolutely true when it comes to the dining choices in town. Food is a-plenty here both in terms of varieties, choices, and categories. However, one of the many must-not-miss dining opportunities has to be Sunday Brunch at The Okura Prestige Bangkok. Presenting one of the best in class international and casual Sunday Brunch 24-storeys high above the bustling streets of the City of Angels at Up & Above Restaurant.

There are a variety of food stations serving salad, a la minute grilled meat, foie gras, pasta, cold cuts and charcuterie, sushi and sashimi station where the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s team are at the ready to supply diners with their favourite orders. Not to mention a cornucopia of cheeses including Cebreiro, Brie, Blue cheese, Petit Gres des Vosges, Crotin de Chavignoi, Fourme de Ambert, Mimolette and more. All these can be enjoyed with free-flow champagne, Prosecco, wines, local beers, cocktails, mocktails and soft drinks of your choices.

The restaurant offers spacious seating areas with floor-to-ceiling windows. Diners can enjoy great dining experience surrounded by the breathtaking views. Sunday Brunch starts with an array of top-of-the-line seafood both local and imported. The plethora of seafood on ice includes freshly shucked French, Australian and American oysters; succulent giant Alaskan king crab, premium-grade Maine lobster; seasonal mud crab, blue crab or New Zealand mussels and Rock lobsters.

Available every Sunday from 12 noon-3 pm at Up & Above Restaurant priced at B2,800++ per person inclusive of free-flow mocktails and soft drinks; B3,500++ per person inclusive of free flow wines, Prosecco, local beers, cocktails, mocktails and soft drinks; B4,100++ per person for full brunch and free-flow champagne, Prosecco, selected wines, local beers, cocktails, mocktails and soft drinks; and B1,050++ per child under 12 years old.

Up & Above Restaurant

24F The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd. | T. 02 687 9000

www.okurabangkok.com

FOOD & DRINK | listings

chinese

à la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok. Bai Yun 22F, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, and one of the highest Park, 952 Rama 4 Rd. representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine Tel: 02 632 9000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat on the planet, offers high-quality 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun 11am-2:30pm ingredients you can really savour. www.crowneplaza.com 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm

french

China Table

A stylish Chinese restaurant with a tempting choice of signature dishes and one of the best dim sum lunch in Bangkok. 3F, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am3:30pm www.radissonblu.com/plazahotelbangkok

Pagoda Chinese Restaurant

This upscale venue serves traditional Cantonese cuisine in a spacious and contemporary setting. The menu focuses on healthy dishes, while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. It’s well worth a visit. 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.marriott.com

Xin Tian Di

The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches and 70 | JUL/AUG 2019

La Vie

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at this elegant restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination. 11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm; Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core. GF, Marriott Mayfair Hotel 60 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 672 12 30 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com

german Sühring

German gastronomy comes alive using modern techniques and high-quality ingredients, while still following traditional flavour profiles. The kitchen of this two Michelinstarred restaurant is helmed by a pair of identical twin chefs (Thomas and Mathias), and the results are like nothing you’ll see or taste elsewhere. 10 Yen Akat Soi 3 Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: Mon-Fri 5:30pm-9:30pm; Sat-Sun 11:30pm-12:30am (last order) www.restaurantsuhring.com

international

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain Michelin-starred restaurant living up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm, closed every Tue www.jaime-bangkok.com

Le Boeuf

The concept here is simple: highquality steak, liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy

CHAR Restaurant

A stunning dining space, offering modern grill cuisine with remarkable flavours. A simply elegant venue, CHAR Private lets you dine in utmost privacy and style. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Eat Me

Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | listings

Elements

Residences, this beautiful restaurant has an outstanding setting and prepares wonderfully fresh plates with a slight Oriental leaning. Choose from the likes of Chilli Crab, Szechuan Rock Lobster, Beef Massaman, Scallops and Abalone Sashimi, Teriyaki Pork Belly and a plethora of traditional favourites to tempt every palate for every occasion. 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 Tel: 02 079 7000 Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.137pillarsbangkok.com/en/dining/ nimitr

Elements

Ocken

consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steaks in town. Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

This Michelin-starred restaurant expertly fuses Japanese and French culinary aesthetics, flavours and precision, in a retro-futuristic space that feels like a home study but has the theatricality of a playhouse. 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open: Tue-Sat 6pm-10:30pm www.okurabangkok.com

Latest Recipe

A new upscale brunch offering from the signature restaurant in the Le Méridien offers a delicious and indulgent approach to wining and dining. The Medittarean-inpsired “La Docle Vita” Lifestyle Buffet offers an eclectic mix of cuisines across various stations, with fresh seafood, made-to-order pasta, free-flow wine and champagne. 1F, Le Méridien Bangkok 40/5, Surawong Rd. Tel: 02 232 8888 Open daily: 5:30am-10:30am, 5:30pm11pm (a la carte); Mon-Sat 12pm2:30pm; Thu-Sat 6pm-9:30pm; Sun 12pm-4pm www.latestrecipebangkok.com

Nimitr

“Oriental Cuisine” inspired by a responsible gourmand chef on situated on the 27th floor of the luxurious 137 Pillars Suites & 72 | JUL/AUG 2019

Offering dishes inspired by memories and experiences of travels and cultures from near and afar to be shared by people who love to eat, Ocken explores creative techniques, bold flavour combinations, and cooking with no boundaries. The cuisine is known for its free-spirited nature which changes periodically according to what the team feels like eating. 1F, Bhiraj Tower at Sathon South Sathon Rd. Tel: 082 091 6174 Open: Sat-Sun 10:30am-2:30pm; TueSun 6pm-12am www.ockenbkk.com

Park Society

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this highaltitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus. 29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd.

Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

With a design concept that conjures up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill kitchen at this stunning restaurant space dishes up succulent steaks and other meaty morsels. It’s also home to a super cool looking whisky room. 34F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-12am; Sun 11:30am-3:30pm www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Tables Grill

Showcasing French cuisine and helmed by Michelin-experienced Chef Hans Zahner, Tables Grill sets the perfect experience of fresh ingredients and flavourful elegance. Tables Grill welcomes guests to try an à la carte menu and 5 or 7-course degustation menu. Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 494 Rajdamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 6250 Open: Mon-Sun 6pm-10pm; Sun 11am3pm www.tablesgrill.com

Up & Above

This elegant 24th floor restaurant has fine dining down, but it also boasts a brunch to rival all others— delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: 6am-10:30am, 12pmbangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK 2:30pm, 12pm-10:30pm; Sun 12pm-3pm rustic flavours of Italy, Favola www.okurabangkok.com is the favoured destination for cosy, romantic dinners. A homey, provincial dining room is decorated Vertigo Too Bar & in vivid green and rich brown wood Restaurant Neither an open-air rooftop bar nor with ambient backlighting. Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, 789 Moo the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco 14, Bangna-Trad Rd, Samut Prakan Tel: 02 118 7722 Vertigo Too deftly toes the line Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm between the two. www.facebook.com/favolasuvarnabhumi 60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Il Bolognese Trattoria & Open daily: Mon-Fri 5pm-1am; Sat-Sun Pizzeria 1pm-1am Ristorante Il Bolognese brings to www.banyantree.com Bangko the soulful cuisine and convivial spirit of the city of Bologna. 139/3 Sathon Soi 7 Upstairs at Mikkeller Tel: 02 286 8805 The second-floor, six table Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pmrestaurant is simple but effective 11pm with an open kitchen and Michelinstar food sure to wow guests. Expect www.ilbolognesebangkok.com to be spoiled with a rousing and wide-ranging tasting menu, expertly paired with international craft beers. 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2 Tel: 091 713 9034 Open: Thu-Sat 6:30pm-10:30pm www.upstairs-restaurant.com

italian

and convivial setting, this is one of the top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. 8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com

spanish Uno Mas

With its expansive menu of authentic Spanish specialties, coupled with spectacular city views, this chic, sky-high tapas bar and restaurant reaches new “heights” in several respects. 54F, Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 4pm-1am www.unomasbangkok.com

steak & burger

Medinii

Attico

Award winning Attico Restaurant serves 100% authentic Italian cuisine, Whilst sharing the skyline views from the terrace areas. 28F, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 Open daily: 5pm-11pm www.facebook.com/atticoitalianrestaurant

Favola

Specialising in the robust and bangkok101.com

The Italian inspired restaurant is somewhat tucked away high up at Asoke intersection. A hidden standout fine dining concept serving dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavours. Free flow of authentic Pasta & Pizza include soft drink. Easily accessed by Asoke BTS and Sukhumvit MRT. 35F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 686 7000 Open daily: Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-12am www.thecontinentdining.com/medinii

japanese Kisso

Combining a modern mastery of time-honoured customs in a stylish

The Steakhouse Co.

A new city steak restaurant, located on the vibrant Patpong Soi 2, serves up delectable cuts from Australia, the US, and Argentina. At the stove is Chef Moo, who has extensive experience across many city hotels, and takes great pride in the ageing, marbling, and hanging two of the carefully selected beef produce. A well-stocked bar with an impressive wine list and local craft beers, ensures guests find the perfect tipple to accompany their bovine. The Steakhouse Co., 9/8 Patpong 2 Rd. Tel: 06 109 Steak (78325) Open daily: Mon-Sat 11:30am-12am; JUL/AUG 2019 | 73

FOOD & DRINK | listings Sun 12pm-12am www.thesteakhouseco.com

thai Bangkok Heightz

A rooftop sky bar with an authentic Thai concept. This restaurant serves delicious food with focus on local seafood and Thai cocktails. Meanwhile, views of Bangkok’s downtown cityscape can be enjoyed from the restaurant’s open air-deck. 39F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 686 7000 Open daily: untill 12am www.thecontinentdining.com/th/ bangkok-heightz.php

Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Le Du

It might sound French but the name Le Du actually derives from the Thai word for ‘season,’ and seasonal Thai ingredients are the focus here in progressive Frenchinfluenced dishes that are also rooted in tradition. Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn is one of the rising stars of the Bangkok dining scene, earning Le Du a Michelin star. 399/3 Silom Soi 7 Tel: 092 919 9969 Open daily: 7pm-10pm www.ledubkk.com

Bo.lan

Authentic, but daring, this is one of the top Thai restaurants in all of Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this Michelin-starred restaurant remains so popular year after year. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 Tel: 02 260 2962 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 12pm-2:30pm www.bolan.co.th

Market Café

Blue Elephant

Inspired by Ayutthaya era’s traditional markets is the all-new Market Café. With a menu that stays true to Thai flavours, the restaurant offers freshly prepared dishes with bold spices and vibrant flavours crafted by chefs who are well-versed in local cuisine. 4F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 Open daily: 6am-10am, 10:30am-10pm www.facebook.com/pg/MarketCafeBKK

Blue Elephant

Ruen Urai

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant and cooking school sits in a gorgeous Thai historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 74 | JUL/AUG 2019

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest, freshest ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: 12pm-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Saffron

Award-winning contemporary Thai cuisine. Spoil yourself in the best of Thai signature dishes, which include seared Tasmanian salmon with crispy pork crackling and a spicy citrus dressing, banana blossom salad with perfectly grilled and marinated prawns served with a coconut dressing and fried banana flowers. 52F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com/bangkok

Sala Rim Naam

A stunning traditional pavilion located across the river from Mandarin Oriental where you will dine and experience Thai culture with all your senses. Classical Thai dance shows starts every night at 7:45pm. Dress code is required: elegant attire and proper footwear for ladies, long trousers and shirts with closed-in shoes for gentlemen. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 7pm10:30pm www.mandarinoriental.com

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, diners at this elegant, Michelinstarred eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an incredible culinary adventure down a menu-less-travelled. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 162 9000 bangkok101.com

Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-12am www.kempinski.com/bangkok

café

2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, Tel: 02 261 0464 1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex Building, 57 Wireless Rd., Tel: 02 108 2200 1F, Sathorn Square, Tel: 02 108 1208 GF, The Crystal, Tel: 02 061 2846 1F, All Seasons Place, Tel: 085 669 1226 1F, FYI Center, Tel: 098 562 4692 www.deandeluca.com/thailand

vegetarian bites which could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 662 5001 Open daily: Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat-Sun 7am-10pm 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 www.broccolirevolution.com

Kay’s Boutique Breakfast

The Chocolate Boutique

With a clear and strong focus on natural quality ingredients and old world craftsmanship, this chocolate café, cake, and sweet shop exudes sense of playful experimentation from the moment you begin browsing the menu. GF, Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 8am-11pm www.shangri-la.com/bangkok

Dean & Deluca

This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients.

Kay’s is dedicated to making your breakfast, the most important meal, full of joy and excitement. Serving both gourmet breakfast buffet line and à la carte at a reasonable price, the food is cooked fresh from the griddle right in front of you. Scrumptious morning treats are sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. Morning drinks are designed to be a great booster for the rest of your day. 6F, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 245 1953 Open daily: 10am-10pm 116/55-57 Soi Rang Nam Open daily: 6:30am-4pm; Tue 6:30am12pm www.kaysbangkok.com

vegetarian Broccoli Revolution

This vegan-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright

Simple. Natural Kitchen

A quaint restaurant featuring a rich vegan menu with local and organic delicacies. With Italian inspiration, the restaurant has a rustic décor and is situated in a small alley away from the bustle of the city. The rich blend of organic spices and ingredients and the welcoming staff attract many vegan lovers looking for a quick brunch. 235/5 Sukhumvit Garden Soi 31 Tel: 02 662 2510 Open: Tue-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 8am6pm www.simplenaturalkitchen.com

GRILLED DUTCH HARBOR KING CRAB THB1,250 LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com

Premium gin cocktail at Vertigo TOO, Banyan Tree Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE Gin & Oyster at Vertigo TOO Heighten your senses with a culinary indulgence of oysters at Vertigo TOO throughout August. Simply enjoy them freshly shucked with a crafted cocktail of premium gin. Head to Banyan Tree Bangkok for elegant gin cocktails and a platter of fine oysters over ice on a simply fabulous night out. Call 02 679 1200 or email Hostesses-Bangkok@banyantree.com

Asia’s Best Bar pop-up from Hong Kong to Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok From 1 June to 31 August 2019, the bartender team showcases themed cocktails inspired by Ernest Hemingway, the legendary American author who was once a resident and wrote at The Oriental Hotel. The drinks menu, names and overall concept pay tribute to Hemingway’s Pulitzer Prize-winning fictional work, The Old Man and the Sea. The creations offer unique tastes, smells and colours with a culinary and scientific approach. Call 02 659 9000 ext. Bar Reservations or visit mobkk-restaurants@mohg.com

The first Thursday of every month pop-up at Zest Bar & Terrace TGIT–THANK GOD IT’S THURSDAY because Zest Pop event, conveniently located on 7th Floor of The Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok, lets guests unwind from work and indulge in two hours’ free-flow beer, sparkling, red and white wine, paired with chef’s finest tapas and finger food selections live-prepared with flair. Have a zesty evening from 7-9pm at B600++ per person. www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bkkwi-the-westin-grandesukhumvit-bangkok.

Mixx Discotheque All-night entertainment in the city centre

here is an extravagant nightclub located in the basement floor of the InterContinental Hotel Bangkok. Launched in 2010, Mixx Bangkok gained its steady popularity as the go-to place where drinks and fabulous music is served until sunrise. It is prevalent among young locals and expats or international visitors crowd. Do not let the unassuming entrance fool you though, Mixx Discotheque is one nightclub that accommodates two different themes within the same space. Stepping into a dark corridor, we find ourselves emerging into an opulently decked area. The VIP seats are lush and comfortable with velvet-covered seats, and there is plenty of space in the middle to dance in. The red boudoir area is complete with luxurious heavy drapes, several ornate chandeliers and statuettes. The L-shaped bar lined one side of the

wall while the DJ booth sits opposite where they spin non-stop all-time favourite hip hop, R'n B and party pop tunes. The second room offers a different vibe. Stepping into the bright walkway and as if emerging into a snow cave, the adjacent room is decked in bright coloured furnishings. The walls are lined with impressive psychedelic liquid displays with a smaller bar on one side of the room. The usual crowd in this room sees many beautiful top models and their friends enjoying the drinks, the dance and the music. The DJs here spin beat-heavy house music. Mixx always has a great lineup of international and local DJs who knows precisely how to keep the vibe fresh and alive throughout the night. Mixx Discotheque is only a short walk from the BTS Chit Lom station; however, most taxis will be able to take you there. The club opens from 9pm until late.

President Tower B06-B10, 973 Ploenchit Rd | T. 02 656 0382-3 | MIXX Discotheque Bangkok www.mixx-discotheque.com

SEEN Restaurant & Bar Walk on the starry sky by the River of Kings

restaurant, a lounge and a bar in one, SEEN Restaurant & Bar has much to offer. The unique brand and concept designed by M&J London offers a majestic panoramic view of Bangkok skyline. The 26th floor rooftop restaurant is the brainchild of the Portuguese chef-preneur, Olivier da Costa, the floor-to-ceiling glass-

wrapped ‘S’ shaped restaurant design is meant to offer the best view and food to match. Lead by Chef Alexandre Castaldi, diners favourites include organic beetroot carpaccio served with aromatic feta cheese, fresh orange, caper vinaigrette, dill and sweet macadamia (B490); the SEEN Taco—crispy tacos served with fresh and succulent

Alaskan King Crab, fresh mango, guacamole, red cabbage topped with Tobiko roe, pomegranate and a dash of spicy mayo to balance the overall flavours (B620 for 2 pieces); deep fried Tapioca and cured cheese served with spicy guava jelly (B290); or the Maguro Tataki—six slices of Bluefin Tuna sliced thin served with Sumiso sauce with chives and Daikon radish (B590) and many more. Also available is the lineup of trend-setting world-class DJs brought by Scotty B, the Music Director. Former Director of Entertainment for Starwood hotels and resorts and a former Music Curator for W Hotel Beijing, he was the creator of the first W Music Festival in Asia and has headlined many international luxury brands. “Bangkok is a world-class culinary city with new and exciting things happening every day and everywhere. “We work with a handful of talented taste-making DJs to craft the best best for each night. “We want to create an atmosphere that is hip, cool, yet interactive. Our music ranges from soulful, deep, funky, nu disco, house, urban, eclectic, alternative, diverse and upbeat with a feelgood vibe that allow guests to experience the sonic identity of our venue,” Scotty B mused about the SEEN experience. With a penchant to innovate and explore in expressive music styles, Scotty B’s ability to hype up the crowd guarantees a memorable experience for all.

SEEN Restaurant & Bar 26F, Avani+Riverside Bangkok Hotel, 257 Charoennakorn Rd. | Tel: 02 431 9120 | Open daily: 6pm-1am www.seenrooftopbangkok.com

review | NIGHTLIFE

Saturday Social Party

Decadent party 37-storey above the streets of Bangkok by Morgan JT

Victorian London vintagestyle cocktail bar decked in the classic dark wood interior at Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Sukhumvit 22, ABar is a stylish local hangout located on the 37th floor with a breathtaking view of Bangkok skyline from its rooftop deck. Reminiscing the American Prohibition Era during the 1930s, it is now hosting a monthly Gatsby-vibe party series to entice all socialite to meet, eat, dance and enjoy their afternoons every last Saturday of the month starting from May 25, 2019, onwards. All guests are urged to indulge in exclusive savoury bites and a lineup of premium beverages prepared by expert chefs and mixologists while enjoying various great entertainment including live band playing soothing jazz or bangkok101.com

energetic swing dance numbers throughout the afternoon. The chefs’ team from Akira Back restaurant has prepared exclusive signature dishes like Truffle Bomb (B390)—mushroom croquette served with sea urchin and caviar; Soft Shell Crab Roll (B430) served with avocado and Unamite sauce; A5 Kagoshima Striploin with asparagus (B2,300); or the succulent Lamb Rack cooked in braising jus and black garlic (B1,900) and more. But Akira Back fans have no need to fret because they can enjoy all the favourite a la carte choices from the restaurant including Tuna or Eringi Pizza (B470/B310) with umami aioli served with micro shiso and white truffle oil; or Soul Mate (B420)— Amaebi sea urchin and brioche toast just to name a couple. ABar Saturday Social Party

offers four different beverage packages from non-alcoholic beverages plus Valrhona Chocolate Martini made per glass with topping(s) of your choice at B260; non-alcoholic, beer and sparkling wine at B460; selected wines with premium craft beer and Chocolate Martini and ABar Spritz at B1,400; or the free flow all-inclusive beverage package with free flow French champagne available for 3.30 hours until 5pm at B2,600. *All prices are in Thai baht and subject to 10% service charge and applicable government tax.

Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5555 Open daily: 6pm-1am ABar Saturday Social Party: Every last Saturday of the month 12pm-5pm bangkokmarriottmarquisqueenspark.com JUL/AUG 2019 | 81

NIGHTLIFE | listings

bar Aqua

All-day dining and evening cocktails in Bangkok. Relax by the koi pond amidst tropical foliage in Aqua’s courtyard setting. Order a bite from any one of the dining establishments, or sample rare whiskies and cocktails. This alfresco lounge is also ideal for smokers with a selection of cigars on offer. Enjoy live DJ sets on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: Breakfast 6am-10:30am, Lunch & Dinner 11:30am-12am, Sunday Brunch 11:30am-3pm www.anantara.com/en/siam-bangkok/ restaurants/aqua

Bamboo Chic Bar

Explore a selection of signature cocktails, wines, and spirits, while the culinary team prepares a variety of snacks and delicatessen favourites in a contemporary lounge setting. 4F, Le Méridien Bangkok, 40/5 Surawong Rd. Tel: 02 232 8888 Open daily 5:30pm-11:30pm www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com

Bar@494

A cosy place with an extensive selection of international wines. Chic décor, ambient lighting, and an excellent selection of food and wine make this vibrant bar one of Bangkok’s most popular evening venues in downtown area. Come to enjoy world-class cocktails and take advantage of daily Happy Hours and unbeatable value with a wine buffet. 82 | JUL/AUG 2019

The Bar

backyard into a tropical hideaway, a family-friendly restaurant named 'Blue Parrot'. Blue Parrot is an oasis in the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Offering a swimming pool, pétanque strips and kids play area, it is the perfect hub for a relaxing brunch, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner or afterwork drinks. The menu delivers a fresh and tasty international cuisine as well as live BBQ and kids' menu. 50 Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 235 4822 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.blueparrot-bangkok.com

The Bar

The Diplomat Bar

Grand Hyatt Erawan 494 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 1234 Open daily: 12pm-12am www.hyatt.com

Featuring black and gold colour theme with both indoor and outdoor seatings, this 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated, quiet and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly-up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 3pm-12am www.hyatt.com

Beer Belly

Beer Belly takes over the large space on the right-hand side of 72 Courtyard’s ground floor and offers 20 beers on tap, ranging from Leo (B180/pint) and Asahi (B260/pint) to La Chouffe (B420/pint) and L’Olmaia LA5 (B480/pint). Bottled Thai craft beers like Chalawan (B180) and Phuket Beer (B180) are also available alongside East-meets-West drinking snacks like pork wontons (B140) and barbecue ribs (B320). While inside space provides games on the house like jenga, chess, darts, pool, ping pong and even a beer pong table; head outside for bar seating and tables when the weather's nice. GF, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7770 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.72courtyard.com/brands/beer-belly

Blue Parrot

Revolucion Cocktail transformed his

Drop by any night and you’re likely to find suited and booted business types chatting over martinis. Dark wood touches, soft yellow lighting, and a den-like feel partly account for the bar’s popularity from 8pm Monday to Thursday (and 8:30pm Friday and Saturday), a talented band entertains with jazz and R&B sounds. 1F, Conrad Bangkok Hotel 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9244 Open: Sun-Thu, 7am-1am (happy hour 5pm-8pm, live entertainment Mon-Thu 8:30pm-12:30am), Fri-Sat, 7am-2am www.facebook.com/ diplomatbarconradbangkok

Evil Man Blues

Evil Man Blues is a Jazz cocktail bar made out of a man’s madness. Expect the close knit vibe that is full of charm, sexiness and spasms of love. Themed after a 1950s American diner as a homage to the American West Coast jazz bars of the '50s and '60s, purple and blue neon lights illuminate a well-polished space manned by new-in-town bartender, bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE Liam Baer, who serves a list of creative twists on classic cocktails. GF, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

FindThePhotoBooth

#FindThePhotoBooth is a hidden speakeasy and the second bar following the success of FindTheLockerRoom, a high energy bar with great hospitality and delicious cocktails. 11 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 117 2636 www.facebook.com/FindThePhotoBooth

Rabbit Hole

A proper cocktail bar run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What’s more, the bartenders really know their spirits. 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 098 969 1335 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.rabbitholebkk.com

Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar

A world-class wine bar that isn’t just all about wine. There’s dozens of vinos to choose from, as well as some exciting options for the nonwine-inclined, while refined, rustic European cuisine is served up tapasstyle for social dining. 2F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1133 Open daily: 11am-12am www.riedelwinebarbkk.com

Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant

This sophisticated (and elevated) drink spot and bistro offers tipplers bangkok101.com

both a novel-sized wine list as well as a long list of creative cocktails— many of which make use of in-house infused spirits. 37F, Pullman Hotel Bangkok G 188 Si Lom Rd. Tel: 096 860 7990 Open daily: Mon-Fri 6pm-1am; Sat-Sun 5pm-1am www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk

Surface

Classic French specialist Chef Chalee Kader successfully delivers comfort food that appeals to local tastes. The newly renovated dining room with a view of their own lush greenery garden reflects the fresh produce on the plates. At night a young high-so crowd fills the sofas and chairs. 107 Sukhumvit Soi 53 Tel: 02 258 2858 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.facebook.com/ SurfaceKitchenAndGardenLab

Wine Connection The Grill

There are currently 18 Wine Connection outlets in Bangkok, however, this branch sets itself apart focusing on grilled meats— especially beef—to be enjoyed with the large selection of reasonably priced vinos (available mainly by the bottle, but with some “by the glass” options as well). 1F, The Groove@CentralWorld Tel: 02 613 1037 Open daily: 11am-12am www.wineconnection.co.th

CHAR Rooftop Bar

Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Character Whisky & Cigar Bar

Both outlets of this warm and comfortable smoker’s lounge—one of which doubles as a skybar—serve some of the rarest and finest single malt whiskies from Scotland (and beyond), as well as housing humidors stocked with premium handmade cigars from Cuba, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic and more. Courtyard at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 4726 Open: Mon-Sat, 1pm-12am www.facebook.com/characterbar

rooftop sky bar Aire Bar

Offering a variety of wines, beers, and artisanal cocktails, with delicious snacks to boot. Plus, one of the best views of the city (day and night). A laid-back bar perfect for unwinding with a cocktail in hand. 28F, Hyatt Place Sukhumvit Bangkok 22/5, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 055 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.facebook.com/airebarbangkok

CRU Champagne Bar

This high altitude hot spot is owned by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. JUL/AUG 2019 | 83

NIGHTLIFE | listings 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com

Long Table

Although known for its massive communal dining table, you can also glug signature cocktails or new latitude wines while enjoying the view from the 25th floor. 25F, 48 Column Building Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 02 302 2557 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.longtablebangkok.com

Moon Bar & Vertigo

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Bangkok offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for a romantic rendezvous. 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 11:30pm-1am www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Rooftop Terrace at Penthouse Bar+Grill

This dramatic skybar is the perfect spot to drink in Bangkok’s night time skyline in an outdoor garden lounge setting. Choose anything from a bucket of drinks, to curated cocktails and expertly crafted bites. 36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Zest Bar and Terrace Open Sun-Wed: 5:30pm-1am; Thu-Sat 5:30pm-2am Zest Bar and Terrace bangkok.park.hyatt.com Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-1am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com Spectrum Lounge & Bar

Spectrum Lounge & Bar Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar

Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 Tel: 02 797 0000 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/octavemarriott 84 | JUL/AUG 2019

of Bangkok's Chao Phraya river, discover the perfect setting to relax, unwind and take in unbeatable 360° panoramic vistas. Select from delicious, creative cocktails made by champion mixologists as you enjoy the live music from an experienced jazz singer. Millennium Hilton Bangkok, 32F, 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www3.hilton.com

Enjoy the vibrant social scene and breathtaking views at the newest rooftop bar in Bangkok. Spread over the top three floors, the bar features spacious indoor loungers, an outdoor terrace and perfect unwinding spots with a wide selection of premium tapas, crafted cocktails and DJs entertainment every night. 30F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 Open daily 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/spectrumrooftopbkk

ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar

Set high above the glittering lights

club Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe plus great music and one of the best sound systems where the floor moves to the beat of the music. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 9pm-late www.beamclub.com

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House—decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 9pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

GF, The Landmark Hotel 138 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 254 0404 Open daily: 11:30am-2am www.landmarkbangkok.com/huntsmanpub

live music

Brown Sugar

Sugar Club Bangkok

A venue dedicated to bringing Bangkok’s party crowd the best Hip-Hop clubbing experience. It is the newest addition to the city’s energetic nightlife scene, featuring an exceptional state-of-the-art sound and intelligent lighting system that will rock seven days a week. 37 Sukhumvit Soi 1/1 Tel: 061 391 3111 Open daily: 10pm-4am www.sugarclub-bangkok.com

pubs

The Drunken Leprechaun

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours, and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4 Sukhumvit 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

The Huntsman

English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a Sunday roast like no other. bangkok101.com

mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists. Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.blackcabinbar.com

Apoteka

Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this lively spot has a casual old-school feel, indoor and outdoor seating, an awesome line-up of live music almost every day of the week, tasty bar snacks, and a drink selection including beer and custom craft cocktails. No dress code, no cover charge, and no pretention! 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 098 896 3639 Open daily: Sat-Thu, 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am www.apotekabkk.com

Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open: Tue-Thu, Sun 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am (closed Mon) www.brownsugarbangkok.com

Maggie Choo’s

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish Bamboo Bar early 20th-century gambling dens. A small and busy landmark of Underground of Hotel Bangkok Fenix the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, Silom, 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 thanks to the legendary jazz band Open: Mon-Thu 7:30pm-2am; Sun 7:30that plays each night. Ideal for 2am; Fri-Sat 7:30pm-3am a boozy night out or a romantic www.maggiechoos.com special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) SoulBar Tel: 02 659 9000 ext. 7690-1 Metalwork, modern art, and live Open daily: Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat Motown, Funk, Blues, and Soul, form 5pm-2am the backbone of this stark, yet cool, www.mandarinoriental.com shophouse-come-bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 831 Charoen Krung Soi 31 Black Cabin Tel: 064 307 3597 Half the space at Wild & Co. Open: Wed-Sat 6:30pm-12am restaurant is given over to this brick-walled pub, which eschews the www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok JUL/AUG 2019 | 85

Khlong Tom Market

getting there | MAP

Rail

SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit SKYTRAIN (BTS) (MRT) is another fast and reliable The Bangkok Transit System, or way to get across town. The BTS, is an elevated train network 18-station line stretches 20km covering the major commercial from Hualamphong (near the areas. Trains run every few minutes central railway station) up to from 6am to midnight, making it a Bang Sue in the north. Subways quick and reliable transport option, run from 6am to midnight daily, especially during heavy traffic with trains arriving every 5-7 hours. Fares range from B16 to B59, minutes. The underground however tourist passes allowing connects with the BTS at MRT unlimited daily travel (B140) as well Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT as trip packages. However, they do Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT not provide any free shuttle bus Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit that transits passengers to and from stations. Subway fares range stations or nearby areas. from about B16 to B42. www.bts.co.th www.bangkokmetro.co.th

River CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats

tend to be frequent. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of intercity waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats

Road BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B8 and B12-20. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should always be negotiated MOTORCYCLE TAXI beforehand. In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, TAXI motorcycle taxis are the fastest, Bangkok has thousands of albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable metered, air-con taxis available by their colourful vests, motorbike 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the bangkok101.com

Airport Rail Link A monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with stops in downtown Bangkok and in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line was closed in 2015. There are eight stations in total including Suvarnabhumi (A1), Lat Krabang (A2), Ban Thap Chang (A3), Hua Mak (A4), Ramkamhaeng (A5), Makkasan (A6), Ratchaprarop (A7), and Phaya Thai (A8). www.srtet.co.th

ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares starting from B15 depending on the distance, tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 7pm.

first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuktuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40. JUL/AUG 2019 | 87

MAP | greater bangkok Uthai Thani

UTHAI THANI

CHAI NAT

LOP BURI

Nakhon Ratchasima c

Chiang Mai

SING BURI

Kanchanaburi

THAILAND

ANG THONG

NAKHON RATCHASIMA

SARABURI

Nakhon Ratchasima

Ubon

Bangkok Pattaya Koh Samet Koh Chang

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

CAMBODIA

Andaman Sea

AYUTTHAYA

NAKHON NAYOK

Koh Samui

VIETNAM

Gulf of Thailand

Krabi

Phuket

PATHUM THANI NAKHON PATHOM

LAOS Udon Thani

Lop Buri

SUPHAN BURI

KANCHANABURI

MYANMAR

PRACHIN BURI

MALAYSIA

SA KAEO

BANGKOK

c b

RATCHABURI

CHACHOENGSAO

SAMUT PRAKAN

SAMUT SAKHON g

SAMUT SONGKHRAM

CAMBODIA CHON BURI

Phetchaburi

Ko Sichang Pattaya

PHETCHABURI

RAYONG

Cha-am

CHANTHABURI

Rayong Hua Hin

Ko Samet

Muang Chantaburi

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN

Gulf of Thailand

M YA N M A R

Trat Ko Chang

Prachuap Khiri Khan Ko Kut

Sightseeing

Floating Markets

Night Bazaar

1 Damnoen Saduak 1 Asiatique The Riverfront Bang Krachao 2 Amphawa 2 Rot Fai Market, b Samphran Riverside 3 Talin Chan c Samphran Elephant Srinakarin 4 Khlong Lat Mayom 3 Rot Fai Market, Ground & Zoo d 5 Bang Nam Pheung Ratchada Ancient Siam 4 Chang Chui Bangkok (Muang Boran) e Safari World Plane Market Museums f Rama IX Royal Park 1 Erawan Museum 5 Patpong g Mahachai Market 2 House of Museums h Phra Pathommachedi 3 Thai Film Museum i Koh Kret Pottery Village 4 Museum of Counterfeit j Rangsit Science Center Goods k Samutprakarn Crocodile Farm and Zoo a

20 KM 20 miles

Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border

88 | JUL/AUG 2019

bangkok101.com

greater bangkok & the chao phraya | MAP

Tanya Tanee j

PAK KRET

Don Mueng

Don Mueng Int. Airport

Ko Kret i

Sai Mai

Royal Irrigation Dept.

Lak Si

Rajpruek

The Legacy

Bang Khen

Northpark

Khlong Sam wa

Royal Thai Army Sport Center

Thanont

MUENG NONTHABURI

Chatuchak

Panya Indra

Lat Phrao Bueng Kum

Bang Sue

Khan na Yao

Chatuchak

Bang Phlat

Navatanee

Phayathai

Dusit

Mini Buri

Mo Chit

Bang Sue

Wang Thong lang

Din-Daeng

Taling Chan

Huai Khwang

Ratchathewi

Bangkok Noi

Bangkok Yai 5 *

Thon Buri

Watthana

Lumpini

Bang Rak

Khlong San

Bang Wa

Bang Kholaem

Lat Krabang

Suan Luang Khlong Toei

Sathorn Prawet

Chom Thong

60 th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park

Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande

Pathumwan Phasi Charoen

Saphan Sung

Bang Kapi

Yan Nawa 4

Bang Bon

Phra Khanong

Suan Luang Rama IX

Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport

Phra Pradaeng

Rat Burana

Bang Na 5

Summit Windmill

Bearing

Bang Khun Thian

Thung Khru

Mueang Kaew

Green Valley

PHRA SAMUT CHEDI

SAMUT PRAKAN

Bangpoo

Gulf of Thailand

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JUL/AUG 2019 | 89

MAP | sukhumvit road

Phra Ram 9

a IX

Ram

Royal

m9 Prara ital Hosp

City

Ave

RCA ange R ing

Driv

Din

het 7

ng P

phae

kam

Phet

Uthai

Ital Thai Expy

(Toll

Makkasan

b tcha

Phe

tate

S 2nd

oad)

8/1

uri 3

Phetchaburi

k Su

het 7

Prasanmit

ng P

phae

kam

oi it S mw 49 /1

Soi

Prasa

t Soi 2

Benjasiri Park

vit 6

oh a an iN

So i

ssw re

Son

Ton

Benjakiti Park

Hotels

Conrad Bangkok 2 Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 3 Seven Hotel 4 JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 5 Rembrandt Hotel & Suites Bangkok 6 Four Points by Sheraton 7 Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 1

300 m 1328 ft

Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Subway Line Railway

90 | JUL/AUG 2019

Galleria 10 Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 11 Marriott Executive Apartments 12 Grande Centre Point Terminal 21 13 Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 8 9

Le Fenix Sukhumvit 5 6 Radisson Suites Bangkok 7 Sukhumvit 8 Arts & Culture 1 Japan Foundation 9 2 Attic Studios 10 3 WTF Gallery and Café 4 The Pikture Gallery Art Workshop & Framing 14

RMA Institute Sombat Permpoon Gallery Art Gallery G23 Subhashok The Arts Centre (S.A.C.) Yellow Korner Ardel’s Third Place Gallery

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Sukhumv

vit

k Na

Soi

an R

g Su

Lau

Soi 35

oi 3

it S

vit

it S

khu

Phrom

khu

Asok

Sukhumvit

umvi

Sukh

vit S

hum

2 13 14

ale

udi

vit Soi 10

Sukhum

oi 8

t Soi

vit

Rua

vit S

hum

Suk

vit

umvi

Sukh

t Soi

umvi

Suk

Sukh

Soi

vit

umvi

hum

Sukhumvit 12

Sukh

Suk

oi 1

Soi

vit S

vit

hum

Suk

oi 1

vit S

hum

Suk

hum

Nana

oi 1

oi 3

oi 7

vit S

hum

Suk

vit S

t Sin

hum

Loe

vit S kh

Soi

Khit

Lom

ri R 6

oi 1

hro

atdi

ont

Suk

Soi

hum

vit S

Saw

Soi

nmit

n ttha

23 21

PK Suk

hum

Lo Nai

Som

Phloen Chit

Aso

Cha

hai

Sea

Soi

7 3

Suk

Soi

u Rd

hay Witt Soi

Chit

Chit Lom

27 14

Rur

25 22

a Nue

Witthayu

Soi

a Nan

Nana

ad rungr Bam ital Hosp

n Ch

Mit

Rd Soi

e Phlo

uri

tch he

tral Cen Lom Chit

hop

Soi P

chat Bura akon iy Cha ital Hosp

in Eye Rutn ital Hosp

9 Soi 3

o Nikh

k Su

Asok

Soi 41

n Rd

kasa

ak mM

sukhumvit road | MAP

uri R

Thong Lo

Ekkamai

ai Ekkam

Lo 23

2 my

oi uan N Soi N ai Ekkam

an o iB

ng myo B an o

ai 21

Ekkam

Thong

P ri d i

kamai Soi Ek

ong Lo Soi Th

Camillian Hospital

Thong Lo

yon

nom

i Ba

Prid

i 28 Ekkama

Prid

yon

nom

i Ba

Ekkamai 23

Prid

chab

Phet

B idi

Prid

k Su

i So

it So umw Sukh

it mw

Ekkamai

k Su

mai Ekka

hu 49

i 49/6

oi it S mw

20 mai Ekka

/1 3

Lo 1

Thong

ai Ekkam

Lo 10

ai Ekkam

mv 1

ong Lo

ka Ek

it 7

ang

hro

Soi Kl

kamai Soi Ek

i ama Ekk

Soi Th

ng L

Tho

ka Ek

Soi

di M

i Pa

M rom

i 10

ama

Ekk

j itive Sam mvit u Sukh spital Ho

Soi

hu Suk

g Thon

hab

Sett

Suk hum vit Soi

16 The ChindAsia Club 17 The Iron Fairies 18 Fat Gut'z 19 Shades of Retro 20 diVino 21 W XYZ Bar 22 Marshmallow 23 Oskar Bistro 24 TUBA Design Furniture & Restaurant 25 Apoteka

Long Table Diplomat Bar 13 The Living Room 14 Barsu 15 WTF Gallery and CafÃ© 11

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Nightlife

vit

Soi

Glow Club 2 Demo 3 Levels Club 4 8 on Eleven 5 Beam 6 Narz Club 1

Hanrahans 8 The Pickled Liver 9 Robin Hood 10 The Royal Oak 7

vit

oi 4

it S

vit

Clubs

Pubs

t umvi Sukh spital Ho

Suk

Robinsons 2 Terminal 21 3 The Emporium 4 EmQuartier 1

Ekkamai

Phra Khanong

Malls

hum

Sukhumvit

i 36

Thong Lo

vit So

Sukhum

Soi 28

vit

um ukh

i 34

Suk

vit

Soi

vit

hum

Sukhumvit

Soi 26

Soi 24

Sukhumvit

Benjasiri Park

Suk

oi 5

it S

t Soi

oi 4

umvi

it S

Suk

Soi 4

Sukh

umvit

Sukh

ukda

Phrom Phong

Suk

t Soi

eng M

umvi

Soi 35

Soi Sa

Sukh

Sukhumvit

Water Library Brasserie at Central Embassy 27 Nest 28 Above Eleven

Embassies

India Philippines ES Spain SE Sweden PK Pakistan JO Jordan BN Brunei Darussalam IN

JUL/AUG 2019 | 91

MAP | siam/chit lom

Soi 29

Soi 3 5

Soi Sukhumvit 1

Soi Lang Suan 1

Soi 4

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Soi 4

Soi 5 Soi 5

Sarasin

Soi 6

Chulalongkorn University Area

Hotels

Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square 3 Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate Bangkok 6 Novotel Bangkok Platinum Pratunam 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 8 Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 9 The St. Regis Bangkok 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Conrad Bangkok 13 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 14 Hotel Muse 15 The Okura Prestige Bangkok 1

200 m 1 000 ft

Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market

92 | JUL/AUG 2019

Soi Ruam Rudi

Soi 7

Sarasin Rd Lumphini Park

d 16 Centara Watergate Siam Ocean World 10 Erawan Plaza e 11 The Peninsula Pavillion Ganesha and 17 Mayfair, Bangkok Trimurti Shrine Plaza 12 Amarin Plaza Marriott Executive f Erawan Shrine g Apartments Phra Indra Shrine 13 Central Chidlom 18 Hotel Indigo 14 All Seasons Place 15 Central Embassy Bangkok Nightlife 19 The Athenee 1 Hard Rock Cafe 2 Red Sky Bar Hotel, a Luxury Shopping 3 Balcony Humidor 16 Siam Square Collection Hotel 20 Oriental Residence 17 Pratunam Market & Cigar Bar 4 Café Trio 19 Siam Square One Bangkok 5 Hyde&Seek

Arts & Culture

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) 2 100 Tonson Gallery 1

Malls

MBK 2 Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza Sightseeing a 6 The Platinum Jim Thomson House Fashion Mall b Madame Tussauds 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen@ Museum c CentralWorld Queen Savang Vadhana Museum 9 Gaysorn 1

udi 2

Soi 3

am R

Soi 2

Ratchadamri

Soi Nai Lert

14 12

u Soi R

Soi Ruam Rudi

Witthayu Rd

UA IT

NL Soi Mahatlek Luang3

Th. Witthayu Rd

Soi Som Khit Soi Tonson

So i6

Soi 5

Ratchadamri Rd

19 5

Soi Mahatlek Luang 2 8

CO VN

Phloen Chit 15

Henri Dunant Rd

Soi Mahatlek Luang 1

vit 2

Rajamangala University

Soi 11

Soi 3

Soi 2

Soi 4

Soi 9

Soi 1

Soi 8

Phloen Chit

Chit Lom

m ukhu

Phaya Thai Rd

Siam Square

an R hith ng P

f 10

Soi S

Soi 7

Dua

Soi Chit Lom

Siam

National Stadium

Soi 31 Soi 33

Soi 23 Soi 25

Soi 27

Soi Lang Suan

Rama I

Soi 10

Soi Kaesem San1

Soi Kaesem San2

ay e ssw Expr

b 2

Nai Lert Park

ohn

Wat Pathum Wanaram

Nak

Srapathum Palace

2 13

Chit Lom

lerm

Prathunam

Witthayu Bridge

Soi 32

Saeb c

Hua Chang Bridge

Soi 30

Khlong San

Ratchaprarop

Soi 19

Soi 15

ID Soi 20

Ratchathewi

Cha

Phetchaburi Soi 18

uri Rd

Soi 22

Phetchab

Soi 17

Soi 13

Embassies

Switzerland Finland ID Indonesia CO Colombia NL Netherlands NZ New Zealand QA Qatar UA Ukraine UK United Kingdom US United State VN Vietnam IT Italy CH FI

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tR nan 8

Thaniya

Soi 4

Patpong 1 Patpong 2

8 Than Tawan Rd Soi 6

He nry

Trok Klue

Sap Rd s Naradhiwaind ra Rajanagar

Soi 12

Soi 10

Naret Rd

aya

Tha

Soi So ng Ph ra

i Rd

6 3 11

Sala Daeng

Soi 11 Yaek 3

Silom

Sala Daeng 1

Soi 6 b

CA Ram

Sala Daeng 1/1

Soi Phra Phinit

Suan Phlu Soi 1

Sathorn Nuea Rd Sathorn Tai Rd

MX 12

Suan Suan

Soi 1

Sala Daeng Rd

St. Joseph School

Soi 5

Soi 7

Soi 8

Convent Rd

Soi 1

Soi 3

Soi 7

Soi 9 14

Soi 9

Soi 14

Charo

at 2

Chulalongkorn Hospital

Surawong Rd

Suan Phlu – Sathron Soi 3

janagarindra Rd

roe

at 1

Char

Cha

Soi 13

en R

Soi

King Mongkut’s University of Technology

Chong Nonsi

Soi 13 int Lou ise – Sathor n Soi 11

oen R

tho Sa

Surasak

Soi Phiphat 2

Soi Sa

So rn

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Lumpini Park

Sathorn Nuea Rd Sathorn Tai Rd Soi 15

at Rd

un Kr n oe ar

So i5 7 S So oi 5 Ch i 61 9 aro en Kru ng

So So i 51 i5 3

Cha

Naradhiwas Ra

Suras ak

suri

Chulalongkorn University

Sam Yan

Pan Rd

i4 6 i5 1 0

Saphan Taksin

SathornSo

2 i4 So 44 i So

Iam

Silom Rd

Ta Taksin ksi nB rid g

chai

chit

Surawong Rd Kam

Soi Nom

Soi 14 Decho Rd

Oriental

Soi 1 8 Soi 16

Soi 38 Soi 40

Soi 2 6

Dumax

n Rd

Soi Santiphap

Soi 19

Wat Suwan

Rak– 1 Soi 3 6

Phloi

Soi Puttha Oso

Pramua

Bang

5 5 6

Soi 30

Soi 3

Sek Rd

Wat Muang Khae 6

Maha

Trok Ph et

Soi 32

Post

Soi 5

on Rd Na kh Soi 39

Soi 30

Si Phraya PT

Soi

Soi 13

Si Phraya

Soi 11

Hua Lamphong

Ma ha

Rd Krung Charo en

Cha roen

Khlong San

e Exp ressw ay

2 nd Stat

Nak hon

wang

Soi Sa

Phr aN akh are

Marine Dept.

Lat Ya Rd

Soi 22 Soi P/2ra– Prach um dit

Soi Wanit 2

siam/chit lom | MAP

13 4

Phlu

Soi Nantha Mozart

hlu 8

Immigration Oﬃce

Hotels

The Peninsula Bangkok 2 Millenium Hilton 3 Shangri-La Bangkok 4 Centre Point Hotel Silom 5 Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton 7 Lebua at State Tower 8 Holiday Inn 9 Pullman Bangkok Hotel G 10 Le Meridien 11 Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park 12 Banyan Tree Bangkok 13 The Sukhothai Bangkok 14 W Bangkok 1

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15 Ascott Sathorn Bangkok

Art to Art gallery Artery Gallery

Embassies

Austria BE Belgium Bars with Shopping CA Canada 1 Robinsons CE Germany Views 1 Three Sixty Lounge 2 River City Shopping GR Greece 2 Red Sky Bar 3 Silom Village FR France 3 Panorama 4 Silom/Patpong MY Malaysia 4 Vertigo Too Night-Market MX Mexico 5 Jim Thompson MN Myanmar Shop Surawong Nightlife PT Portugal 5 La Casa del 6 O.P. Place SG Singapore 7 Iconsiam Habano Bangkok 8 The Jam Factory 6 Bamboo Bar 9 Klongsan Plaza 7 Eat Me 8 Tapas

Arts & Culture

Serindia Gallery 2 Number 1 Gallery 3 Gossip Gallery 4 H Gallery 5 Bangkokian Museum 6 Kathmandu Photo Gallery 1

200 m 1 000 ft

River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market

Sightseeing a b

Snake Farm MR Kukrit’s House

JUL/AUG 2019 | 93

MAP | yaowarat/pahurat (chinatown&little india ) Ma

na Na

rad

t Rd

Rama IV Rd

Yaowarat oi

aro

Kru

Tri i ngs

nit 1

at Rd

Song W

D oi

Rd et i Ph

Rajchawongse ut

a an Ph Saph

ng R

Sap

Princess Mother Memorial Park

Hotels

Grand China Princess 2 Shanghai Mansion Bangkok 1

200 m 1 000 ft

River Ferry River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market

D Tha

ae in D

an aph

pir

Phu

han

Phu

Ba N

Tha Din Daeng

Memorial Bridge

Soi T

ha K

lang

ha R

Arts & Culture

Chalermkrung Theatre Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre 1 2

Temples

Wat Ratburana b Wat Phra Piren c Wat Bophit Phimuk Worawihan d Wat Chakrawat e Wat Chaichana Songkhram f Wat Mangkon Kamalawat g Wat Samphan thawongsaram Worawiharn h Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha) i Wat Kanikapol j Wat Disanukaram a

Markets

Lang Krasuang Market Ban Mo (Hi-Fi Market) 1 Pak Khlong Talat (Flower Market) 1 Yot Phiman Market 1 Pahurat–Indian Fabric Market 1 Sampeng Market 1 Woeng Nakhon Kasem (Thieves Market) 1 Khlong Tom Market 1 Talat Kao (Old Market) 1 Talat Mai (New Market) 1 1

Sightseeing k

94 | JUL/AUG 2019

Chinatown Gate at the Odient Circle

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Marine Dept. N

o nM

Rachini Rd Atsadang Rd

d at R

Mit

ra anu

Chaiyaphun

Trok Itsaranuphap

Mangkon

Soi Wa

YSoi3

Anu

Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station

Hua Lamphong

Mittrphan Rd 2 oi YS

Chi

Y Soi 9

Phadungdao–Soi Texas

Soi 18

Soi 4

Plang Nam

Soi 21

Soi 16 Soi 6

Soi 14 Soi 8

Y Soi 15

d ng R

itri

t Rd Song Sawa

Rd Soi 19

n Mangko

Sua Pa Rd Ratchawong Rd

Y Soi 21 Y Soi 19

Y Soi 23

Luean Rit d

Y Soi 11

1 Soi Aner Keng

Chakkrawat

at R

hur

Pha

R ari

rap

Sampeng Lane – Soi Wanit

Y Soi 17

Soi 17

Maha Chak

Soi 8

Soi 10

YS10 CKS12

Soi 15

Soi 11

Soi 13

9 So i

6 i So

Yaow

4 i So

Pha

Rd arat

Rd Chakphet

Rd hat rip

i So

i Sir So

ha kP

Tro

d iR Cha

ha Ma

Rd an

o Ph

ak Unng d R ng

o Th Ti

gR un Kr 1

g Ran

h tip

is W ok

s Ka

Charoen Krung Rd

t Rd

Romaneenart Park

Khlon

n Rd

t Phire

Wa Thom

Si Thammathirat

Sir

Trok Si

k Rd Woracha

Soi

hat

Chi

u Kr

ng R

Lua

itri

Mai

Ban Dok

ulin Soi Ch

rattanakosin (oldtown) | MAP Ra

m So

Rama VIII Bridge

its

VII

ulo

tP de

Sam sen

ok R d noe nN Dam

Dinso Rd

cha Rat at Rd

Boriph

Chai R

ak R Wo

Soi B

Khlon

an B

rach

g Ong

Ang

hir

at R

hai Rd

Ch ak

hit

Wat Chakrawat

Anu

at R

won

g Rd

on gR

Son

tch

lao

Bridg e

Maha

Rd Dinso

g Rd

okk

orial

at R

kraw

Chak

Phr

Wat Kanlayannamit

ai kY ko ng Ba

nR lon

Wat Bophit Pimuk

Market

Mem

ari Am Kh

d Pak Khlong Memorial Bridge

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Sri

un Ar

et R

Yodpiman Wat Liap Market

kph

Rajinee

Ka sem

Cha

pho

ak ra

Phahurat Rd

et R

lat

m ha

Phir a

Wat Arun (Temple of the dawn)

an hak

Burapha Rd

Phra Phi Phit

Museum of Siam ett Soi S

Royal Theatre

Thip Wari

Ban Mo Rd

rat

Wat Arun

ho etup

ha Ma

Tha Tien

lon

t Rd

Wat Pho

Trok Phan um

Sam Yot

Charoen Krung Rd

Tri Phe

g Rd

Wan

ai Sanam Ch

Thai

ng R

Trok

ya Si

Lua

iph

Soi Phra

Wat Saket

Muang Rd

Rommaninat Park

Soi Sa So ng Soi Long Tha

Phan Fah Leelard

Wisu t

Saranrom Park

Soi Mahannop 2

Ratchabophit

Wat Ratchabophit

Soi S iricha i2 Soi S iricha i1

Soi Sirip at

Ti Thon

Khlong Lot

Saranrom

Trok Sukha 2

Rat

Bumrung Rd

Wat Suthat

Trok Sukha1

ng Rak

Wat Ratchanatdaram

mran

Una n Rd Siri Phka ong Rd

aitri Rd

Wat Ratchapradit

Damro

g Tai

Soi Sa

Giant Swing

uang Rd

Rd an Saw on h k Na Lan Luang Rd

Klan

Bor

Tanao Rd

Buranasat Rd

Trok Nava

City Hall

Phraeng Nara

noen

Sin

Mahanno

Bumrung M

Kalayana M

Grand Palace

Phraeng Phuthon

Wat Phra Kaew

Dam

Wat Ratchanatdaram

m Trok

Khru

Maha C

Lak Mueang Rd

Democracy Monument

ang Tai

on Rd

Na Phra Lan Rd

Trok

g Nuea

Tro

Fuang Nakh

Na Hap Phoei

e Rd Rachine g Rd Atsadan

noen Klan

Klang

noen Kl

Bunsiri

Ratcha

Soi Silipako

Soi Dam

noen

Trokat T hep Sath T hid ien a Ra

Damno

Sanam Luang

Pra cha T

Ch ae Tr ok Ka i

Rd en Nai

at Rd ra Th

n Rd

Na Ph

Maharat Rd

ake Khlo ng Lo t

S g oi ra BangSamse Su n Wat me Lamp 2 n R hu Bowonniwet d ViHara

Soi Dam

Trok

lon

Silpokaorn University

Chao Phraya

a Dam

Cha

Tha Chang

osa

n Tu

Wat Mahathat

Kha

R lao

K in

Amulet Market

tt Bu

sa Ka

Wang Lang

ais

ok Tr

Phra

Maharaj

National Arts Gallery

iW or

Ratch

Thammasart University

Wat Chana Songkhram

tP de m So ge id

Br Dua

lao

National Theatre

Railway

ttr

National Museum

Wat Rakhang

R oi

ink

11 Thonburi

ak kr a

aP hr

Khlong Bangkok Noi

Thonburi Railway

Ati

d tR

Phra Atith

a hr

asa

de m So

lao

hip ata i

K in 12

aP Phra Pin Klao Bridge N

d Rd R ng em ua as kL gK Lu run K

hr Wat Saodung

Rajchawongse

JUL/AUG 2019 | 95

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

www.thainationalparks.com www.worldatlas.com/articles/biggestnational-parks-in-thailand.html 96 | jul/aug 2019

id you know that there are a total of 127 national parks in Thailand, offering a wide range of flora and fauna and endangered species, in which 22 are marine national parks. Kaeng Krachan National Park is the largest of all, covering an area of 2,915 square kilometres. Established on 12 June 1981 in Phetchaburi and Prachuap Khiri Khan provinces, it is mainly a rainforest region where more than 400 bird species, 300 butterfly species and 57 known mammal species called home, not to mention a healthy variety of tropical vegetation. Among its inhabitants are bears, wild dogs, gaurs, golden jackals, porcupines, giant squirrels and langurs yet tiger population is unfortunately rare. Some of the distinctive bird breeds are the hornbill, giant pitta, ruddy kingfisher, great argus and the flavescent bulbul. Blue coral snake, Siamese cat snake and mountain pit viper can also be encountered. As one of the most visited national parks in the country, Kaeng Krachan attracts local and international tourists with its landscape and waterfalls. bangkok101.com

Bangkok 101 July-August 2019

Articles inside

Meal Deals

Breaking Bread with Chef Puvadej Teachajirattakarn

Shirokane Tori-Tama

Spectrum Lounge & Bar

Surprise Wine Pairing Menu

Paii

Stars and Gripes

Sky High

From bean to bar–to the world

Boutique Farmers

Welcome to Thai Avocado Season

Longtail Boats & Barges

Always Bet on Black

Spanish Superchefs

Attico Italian Restaurant, Radisson Blu Bangkok

Closing the Chapter

The Nightingale-Olympic

Pa Nai Krung (Forest in the City)