Bangkok101 Magazine May-June 2019 by Talisman Media

Adventures in Food

A community of like-minded nomads, united in the pursuit of food; from chefs and restaurants to street food, culinary events and international forums. Come and discover a new culinary universe with us. See the website for future events.

www.gastronauts.asia

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

irst of all, we would like to wish you a happy Thai new year and welcome back from the long holidays (or did you hope it hadn’t ended?). For this issue, we begin with a once in a lifetime event for most Thais, the Royal Coronation of His Majesty King Maha Vajiralongkorn Bodindradebayavarangkun held from May 4th to 6th (see pg. 25). Also featuring in this issue are wine-themed stories including New Latitude Wines (see pg. 12), good-to-know Corkage Listings (see pg. 18) and an exclusive interview with the Head Wine Sommelier of Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park (see pg. 22). You can also find intriguing stories about numerous vineyards and wineries in Thailand that are offering much more than just bottled wines (see pg. 30). Featuring also is a recap of Women in Gastronomy (WIG) event showcasing strong and dynamic female leaders and experts in Thailand and abroad (see pg. 62). Bangkok 101 strives to bring you, our readers, the best guides to the city while presenting up to the minute comprehensive listings of events, exhibitions, art galleries, restaurants and food reviews, food stories and nightlife covering local known and lesser-known watering holes in the city and more. You can also find more Enjoy. stories, great reads and the most up to date happenings via our website at www. bangkok101.com Mason Florence If you feel there’s something Publisher we haven’t yet covered but should, please drop us a line at bangkok101@talisman.asia

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

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CONTENTS On the cover

This artwork created for the auspicious occasion of the Royal Coronation of His Majesty King Maha Vajiralongkorn Bodindradebayavarangkun held from May 4th to 6th, 2019. Original artwork by Jinnathip (Morgan) Thanarojpradit

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Metro Beat What’s happening in Bangkok May/June 2019

12 New Latitude Wines Brief history, grape varietals, locations and important laws 18 Corkage To bring or not to bring a bottle, and fees 22 Pattarapol Ponraritt An interview with the Head Wine Sommelier of Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park

SNAPSHOTS 24

Joe’s Bangkok Royal Coronation of Rama X

26 Now New Next An interview with Peeramon Chomdhavat 28

Very Thai Yaa Dong or the traditional Thai herbal drugs

TRAVEL 30

Wine Country Escapes

GranMonte Vineyard and Winery Cosy family atmosphere steps away from Khao Yai National Park

34 Silverlake Vineyard Boutique winery and restaurant in Pattaya

24 36

Head For the Hills! Superb wine and food pairing venues at Monsoon Valley Vineyard, Hua Hin

ART & CULTURE 38 Art Suffocating Geometries by Morakot Ketklao 40 Exhibitions List of art exhibitions in May-June 2019 42

Photo Feature Sakon Project

FOOD & DRINK 46 AROY Food & drink news and updates

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

bangkok101.com

CONTENTS 48

Kitchen Backstories Exploring new latitudes

Review Libération, Piman 49

Eat Like Nym Nittaya Neua Thod

5 Wine-based cocktails Beverages that go beyond Mimosas

Bitchin’ in the Kitchen New Year New Bitch

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of selected bars and music venues in Bangkok

52 Restaurant Review Reviews of restaurants in the city 58

Meal Deals Food promotions around the city

Breaking Bread with Tanaporn Markawat, The Local

Women in Gastronomy (WIG) Thailand’s leading female chefs on their struggles, inspirations and rewards

Women in Gastronomy (WIG) recap of the International Women’s Day

SIGNING OFF 98

Getting There

100 Maps 108 Did You Know? Important dates related to wine

78 Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of selected restaurants in Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE

Nightlife Updates

Interview with Marino Braccu General Manager and sommelier of 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Hong Kong

ART DIRECTOR

GENERAL MANAGER

Narong Srisaiya

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

SENIOR SALES MANAGER

Thanakrit Skulchartchai

Ornuma Promsrikaew

PUBLISHER

STRATEGISTS

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Mason Florence

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

DIRECTOR

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER

DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING

Tipparnee Prajakwit

Fabrizio La Torre, John Goss

COORDINATOR

MANAGING EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Morgan Thanarojpradit

Joseph Lam, Samantha Proyrungtong, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Tom Vitayakul, Rosalind Yunibandhu

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond

Vittoria Dell’Anna

Pichet Ruengjit

EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Sithasa Kanchanavijaya

PUBLISHED BY

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CITY PULSE | metro beat

THE ROYAL CORONATION May 4-6

HEALTH & WELLNESS

June 30

New spa packages at Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi include Summer Splendours body nourishment, exfoliation, aromatherapy massage and mini facial treatment (B3,200 net/person for 120 minutes) and Escape the Heat body wrap treatment and Balinese massage (B3,000 net/person). Explore Spa by Le MĂŠridien opens daily 11am-11pm. For more information and reservation, please call 02 118 7777, email: spa.lmsb@ lemeridien.com or visit us at www. lemeridiensuvarnabhumi.com

SPORT May 19

The Supersports 10-Mile International Run Series Thailand 2019 runs for a good cause at CentralWorld. Part of the entry fees will be donated to both the Queen Sirikit Center for Breast Cancer Foundation and The National Paralympic Committee of Thailand. For more information, visit www.gotorace.com/event/ supersports-bangkok-2019 8 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

The Royal Coronation of His Majesty King Maha Vajiralongkorn Bodindradebayavarangkun took place more than two years after he succeeded his father King Bhumibol the Great in 2016, while the previous coronation of King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who passed at the age of 88 after reigning for over 70 years, was held nearly four years after being named king. This year, the ceremonies lasted three days with the monarchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appearance on the last day. The date May 5 has become a Thai public holiday. On May 4, the Royal Purification and Anointment Ceremonies in the Royal Coronation Ceremony respectively took place at Chakraphat Phiman Royal Residence and Atha Disa Throne at Baisal Daksin Throne Hall, followed by the presentation of the Royal Regalia at Bhadrapitha Throne. Then, His Majesty the King granted a grand audience to members of the Royal Family, the Privy Council, and the Cabinet, as well as senior officials, to offer their best wishes to His Majesty at Amarindra Vinicchaya Throne Hall. The next programme occured at the ubosot of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha where he proclaimed himself the Royal Patron of Buddhism, ending with the Assumption of Royal Residence Ceremony at Chakraphat Phiman Royal Residence.

May 5 held a ceremony to bestow the Royal Cypher and the Royal Title and to grant the royal ranks to members of royalty transpires at Amarindra Vinicchaya Throne Hall. Later, His Majesty the King goes around the city in a land processi encircling Wat Bovoranives, Wat Rajabopidh, and Wat Phra Chetuphon. On May 6, His Majesty the King appeared on a balcony of Suddhaisavarya Prasad Hall in the Grand Palace granted a grand public audience to the general public, so that they may offer their best wishes to His Majesty. He later granted an audience to members of the international diplomatic corps, who offered their felicitations on this special occasion at Chakri Maha Prasad Throne Hall. For more information, visit www.m-culture.go.th/mculture_th60/download/ final-ENG.pdf bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | metro beat

FOOD & DRINK May 28-June 1

International Trade Exhibition Covering Food & Beverage Industry Thaifex-World of Food Asia (at IMPACT Exhibition Centre) is a platform for food and beverage industry. In other words, it is an an internationally diverse F&B event from a synergistic collaboration between the private and public sector that shows products like confectionery items, sweets, rice, ready to eat products, alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages, frozen food and nutritional food items, etc. Highlights include The top 50 Innovative Products Showcase. Visitors can learn about the culture of Thai cuisine and local products (free entry). www.thaifexworldoffoodasia.com

June 9-11

The Brewing Conference Bangkok, organised by the VLB Berlin, Germany, and the Thailand Beer Industry Guild (TBIG) starts at 8:30am and wraps up at 12:30am on each day at BiTEC (Bangkok international Trade & Exhibition Centre). The conference addresses at managers, brewers and leading technical staff from production, filling and quality assurance of breweries and soft drink producers in South East Asia. Conference language is English. For fees and registration, visit www.vlb-berlin. org/en/bangkok2019 1 0 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

MUSIC May 8

Troye Sivan is performing his iconic dance pop music with hits like Youth, Wild, My My My! and Dance To This during Bloom Tour live in Bangkok at Impact Exhibition Hall 5, Muang Thong Thani (gate open 6:30pm). Ticket prices start from B2,000, B2,700, and B3,500. Singles from his debut album, Blue Neighbourhood, previously landed in the Billboard Top Ten. In 2018, a track from his latest and critically-acclaimed album, Bloom went platinum and entered U.S. Top 100 as well as topping Billboard’s Dance Club Songs chart. For more information, visit www.thaiticketmajor.com

May 18

Lauv is heading to Thailand during his third time in Asia for one night only at Moonstar Studio (door open 7:30pm). Ticket prices start at B2,200 (standing). The independent singer, songwriter, producer, and pop visionary has produced a single, There’s No Way; supported by key international media including; MTV Global PUSH, Sirius Radio, Radio Disney, BBC Radio 1, Billboard, Rolling Stone, and many more. Recently, his hit, I Like Me Better reached the Top 10 of Top 40 US radio, and top 10 airplay hits around the globe including Australia, Germany, New Zealand, etc. For more information, visit www.ticketmelon.com

May 19

Bangkok is scheduled as one of the destinations for Jason Mraz Good Vibes Tour 2019. The concert takes place at Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani at 8:30pm (gate open 7:30pm). Ticket prices range from B2,000, B3,000, B4,000, B5,000 to B,6000 VIP package. Jason Mraz has won multiple GRAMMY® Awards and released recordbreaking singles like I’m Yours and I Won’t Give Up that have earned platinum certifications including the Songwrtiers Hall of Fame Hal David Starlight Award. For more information, visit www.thaiticketmajor.com

July 29-30

Two shows are confirmed for LANY Malibu Nights World Tour in Bangkok at GMM Live House Bangkok, 8pm (gate open 7pm). Ticket prices are at B1,800 and B2,800. The debut album, LANY came out in 2017 with a single, Super Far on Zane Lowe’s Beats 1 on Apple Music. In 2018, the American indie pop band from Los Angeles first had a sold out arena concert in Philippines within the first 24 hours so they announced an additional second act just like this time in Thailand. For more information, visit www.thaiticketmajor.com bangkok101.com

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New Latitude Wines On definition, brief history, local grape varietals, cycle of grapevines, locations, current situation, and substitutes for Thai new latitude wines

Definition Coined by wine writer Frank Norel, the New Latitude Wines category has proved that parts of the world suitable for viticulture are no longer limited between latitudes 30 and 50. Low Latitude Wines cover wine grapes grown between 30°N and 30°S, including Thai wines, and nearer to the equator than Old World and New World Wines. New Latitude Wine is approached as a blend between the Old and the New World. www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/new-latitude-wines

History The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia (fourth edition) states that Thai government, led by Prime Minister Anand Panyarachun, legalised wine production in the country in 1992 and paved the way for local wine scene today. But not many people know 1 2 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

that the royal project by His Majesty the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) first experimented with grape planting to discover which varieties are most suitable for Thai climate and soil such as those from Australia, Germany and the United States. Construction mogul Dr Chaijudh Karnasuta was the so-called father of Thai grape wine industry. His Chateau de Loei is the first winery in Thailand, owing to low humidity in the air, less rainfall and sandy soil. Its first commercial harvest was only four years later which was exported to Europe and Japan. www.chateaudeloei.com www.12go.asia/en/thailand/wine-in-thailand

Varietal Local vintners in Thailand mainly grow Shiraz, Black Muscat, and Chenin Blanc, with Pok Dum indigenous red grape variety branched out at a new latitude of roughly 15°N. There are only a few grape varietals bangkok101.com

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50°

30° 13° 0°

50°

30°

S in Thailand because of the different climate and less light intensity with extreme rainy and dry seasons. learn.winecoolerdirect.com/new-latitude-wines

Timing With help of advanced irrigation techniques, the best time of the year for quality harvest is from November to March, or during dry season. In Thailand, it usually takes about four to five months for grapes to ripen. The guided reproductive cycle by oenologists should be complete within the dry season. On the other hand, grapes are cut out in the vegetative cycle which is ideally finished in the rainy season.

Terroir There are at least ten vineyards in Thailand in which seven are wineries including Chateau de Loei, GranMonte Vineyard and Winery in Khao Yai, PB Valley Khao Yai Winery, Issara Winery in Khao Yai, Village Farm & Winery in Nakhon Ratchasima, Silverlake Vineyard in Chon Buri, and Monsoon Valley Vineyard. While Pak Chong and Khao Yai are known as the main wine-producing region, most places offer vineyard tours and non-alcoholic goods bangkok101.com

for all ages such as fresh grapes, grape juice, grape jam, grape ice cream, etc.

Rise The rise in wine production near the equator is made possible by the ability to control the environment or terroir. As a result, Thai vineyards are able to produce over million bottles of wine annually although they are rather confined in the north between the 14th and 18th lines. Local winemakers produce red, white, dessert and even sparkling wines in the traditional method.

Alternative An abundance of tropical and subtropical fruits in Thailand has recently contributed to the availability of various local fruit wines such as mangosteen, passionfruit and orange. Due to affordability and lower tax rate compared to imported wines, fruit wine blurs the lines between proportion of grape juice and fruit concentrate. To prevent any misunderstanding of wines containing 100% grape and those mixed with other fruits, companies must cite “fruit wine” on their bottle label. M AY/J U N 2019 | 13

CITY PULSE | my bkk

Laws, Taxation & Customs Alcohol 101 before and after visiting Thailand. Laws Starting from basics, the legal drinking age in Thailand is 20 years old. Apart from education institutions, infirmaries, parks, petrol stations and stops, pharmacies, public offices, and temples or most religious locations, it is not always illegal to drink in public unless there is a prohibition sign. Some streets are restricted but it depends on the case such as street festivals or food stalls. Selling, buying, and drinking alcohol in public on Buddhist holidays are against the law as well as when there is a national or local election. Bars, clubs, and pubs are temporarily closed and convenience stores and supermarkets are prohibited from selling alcohol, with an exception of a few hotels. Selling alcohol to a person who was previously unconscious from intoxication and being considered intoxicated or involved in any altercation with an authority are also illegal, hence can lead to a penalty of one-year imprisonment and/or B20,000 fine. Alcohol can only be sold during specific hours of the day: 11am-2pm and 5pm-12am except at the airport and certain nightlife establishments that are allowed to open later. Hours of operation for nightlife establishments differ in various areas. Most businesses close at midnight except for some in neighbourhoods like Silom, Patpong, and Ratchadaphisek that can stay open until 1-2am. www.liquor.or.th/law?lang=en

Taxation The new Excise Act B.E. 2560 has been implemented since 2017. The updated tax is called “sin taxes” and is calculated based on the retail price. For wine 1 4 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

and sparkling wine that cost more than B1,000, the rate is at B110, and around B20-60 if the price is below B1,000. Tariff on domestically produced wines is cheaper by B25. State revenue in general could be raised by an average of 2% increase. Please also note that importing unpaid excise commodities is liable to a maximum of seven-year imprisonment and/or a fine of five to seven times the original amount of payment. www.excise.go.th

Customs Alcoholic beverages in excess of the amounts that are not necessary to declare are allowed for import and export purposes with an appropriate permit from “related government agencies”. Failing to declare will lead to costly and severe penalties, with the fine four times the value of the items plus tax and duty and/ or a maximum of 10 years in prison. Tourists are eligible for Value Added Tax (VAT) Refunds according to the following requirements: exiting Thailand through an international airport; being a non-Thai resident who has visited the country for no more than 180 days; and not considered a pilot or cabin crew of any departing airline. The process requires showing a passport, a VAT Refund Application Form obtained online or at the airport, original receipt(s) of goods purchased in Thailand, and the actual goods purchased. www.thailawforum.com/ tourst-guide-laws-Thailand.html bangkok101.com

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Are Bangkok Bars on Course to a Certified Future? As sommeliers continue to pop up all across Bangkok, we chat with some of our city’s leading culinary and wine institutions about learning the trade and how to get a start

Culineur School of Culinary Arts and Entrepreneurship: Supplied.

By Joseph Lam

“

hat we can see today in the differences between certified [and non-certified] bartenders is the certified bartenders become more valuable,” says Nick Mober, Administrative Manager of Asian Professional Beverage Academy. Nick, whose food and beverage career began in 1987 as a bartender at Hotel Continental in Sweden, has two decades of experience in hospitality, including 10 years at Yaowarat’s Hotel Royal as general manager. Once upon a time hotels would manage the buying

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and selling of wines and “leave the rest up to the guests,” he told us. Nowadays, that’s not enough. More and more people are interested in knowing the background of their wine. Wine curiosity isn’t simply left at the table however, rising interests have opened the market for more educational institutions and in turn provide more training opportunities for not only enthusiasts but hotel and catering staff alike. Since 2017 Bangkok has seen the opening of Asian Professional Beverage Academy (APBA) a branch under Bangkok bangkok101.com

Asian Professional Beverage Academy: Joseph Lam

On the opening of new schools, Le Cordon Bleu Dusit Culinary School wine instructor Christophe Mercier said there’s no shortage of students. Despite the rising number of wine courses popping up, his school has seen a steady increase in applicants. “It seems the market is able to absorb every new player,” he said. “More people want to be educated, so they self educate,” said Nick. In fact, many of the students at both Le Cordon Bleu and APBA are not bartenders or hotel staff. Students range from wine enthusiasts to bloggers, importers and university students who aren’t yet in the industry. All are usually self-funded. This was something Nick noticed, so to satisfy curious staff Hotel Royal began trading wine and education courses in exchange for extended contracts–a win-win deal for both the staff and the hotel.

Education varies widely at all three schools from internationally recognised certificates to beverage management. At Le Cordon Bleu, a 45-hour wine studies course sees students learning to appreciate bangkok101.com

wine regions, sharpening their sense of taste and learning to differentiate all kinds of wine. APBA, on the other hand, takes students through the international curriculum of the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) which examines grapes and characteristics, storage and service, principles of pairing and how to describe wine. At newcomer Culineur, the focus is more beverage management, efficient service and entrepreneurship, taught as part of a module which makes up their diploma.

While the number of educational institutions grows, it’s important to measure the value these courses bring. Whether skills learned in theory can be transitioned into practice is a hot question, as is securing jobs for students who’ve invested in these courses and their own knowledge.

For now, schools like APBA are finding ways to connect with their former students and track career progression post course. Nick notes while the value of courses in Thailand hasn’t been calculated just yet, “In France we saw a growth of 13% from wine education alone but that was 10-15 years ago.” Having confident bartenders whose knowledge extends past the label does have its benefits, he says, “customers will recognise this and they will see the level in skills and profession.” M AY/J U N 2019 | 17

Culineur School of Culinary Arts and Entrepreneurship: Supplied.

Asian Professional Beverage Academy: Joseph Lam

Beer & Beverages (BB&B) and Culineur School of Culinary Arts and Entrepreneurship, a recent collaboration between Charoen Pokphand Foods (CPF) and Lausanne Hospitality Consulting.

Culineur School of Culinary Arts and Entrepreneurship: Supplied.

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Corkage To bring or not to bring a bottle, that is the question

range of corkage fees at various local restaurants and hotels listed on the recent Michelin Guide and Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 50 Best list 2019, including those that do not allow outside food or drink and different conditions, promotions, and policies:

Suan Thip 17/9 Moo 7 9 Sukhaprachasan 2 Soi 76, Bang Phut, Pak Kret, Nonthaburi Tel: 02 583 3748 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.suanthip.com Corkage fee per bottle: First bottle free of charge; B200 for the second bottle Methavalai Sorndaeng 78/2 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd Tel: 02 224 3088 Open daily: 10:30am-10pm Corkage fee per bottle: B200 Eat Me Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com Corkage fee per bottle: B500 (Tuesdays B50) 1 8 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

Ginza Sushi Ichi LGF, 494 Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel Phloen Chit Rd Tel: 02 250 0014 Open daily: 12am-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm www.ginza-sushiichi.jp/english/shop/bangkok Corkage fee per bottle: B500 The Peninsula Bangkok 333 Charoen Nakhon Rd, Khlong San Tel: 02 020 2888 www.peninsula.com Corkage fee per bottle: B500 R-Haan 131 Sukhumvit Soi 53, Khlong Tan Nuea Tel: 02 059 0433-34 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.r-haan.com Corkage fee per bottle: B500 for still wine; B1,000 for sparkling wine bangkok101.com

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Sorn 56 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Khlong Tan Tel: 099 081 1119 Corkage fee per bottle: B500 for all kinds of alcohol Chim by Siam Wisdom 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31 Yak 4, Klongtoey-Nua Tel: 02 260 7811 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-11pm Corkage fee per bottle: B600 (Negotiable policy: might get discounts if bring more than three bottles) J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com Corkage fee per bottle: B600 for still wine; B1,000 for sparkling wine (Negotiable policy, no charge for Sunday brunch on the last Sunday once a month every month) The Local by Oamthong 32-32/1 Sukumvit Soi 23, Klong Toey Nue Tel: 02 664 0664 www.thelocalthaicuisine.com Corkage fee per bottle: B600 Opus Italian Wine Bar & Restaurant 64 Pan Rd, Silom Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.facebook.com/opuswinebar Corkage fee per bottle: B690 Park Hyatt Bangkok Hotel Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Rd, Pathumwan Tel: 02 012 1234 www.hyatt.com Corkage fee per bottle: B750 Issaya Siamese Club 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chua Ploeng Rd, Sathorn Tel: 02 672 9040 Open daily: 11:30am-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.issaya.com Corkage fee per bottle: B800 Bo.lan (No. 19 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019) 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, Klong Toey Nua Tel: 02 260 2962 Open: Lunch: Sat-Sun 12pm-2:30pm, Dinner: TueSun 6pm-10:30pm www.bolan.co.th Corkage fee per bottle: B1,000 bangkok101.com

Nahm COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, Sathon Tai Rd Tel: 02 625 3388 Open: Mon-Fri 12pm-2pm, 6:30pm-10:15pm www.comohotels.com/en/metropolitanbangkok/ dining/nahm Corkage fee per bottle: B1,000 (No. 20 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019) Le Du 399/3 Silom Soi 7, Silom Rd, Bangrak Tel: 092 919 9969 Open: Mon-Sat 6-10pm www.ledubkk.com Corkage fee per bottle: B1,000 (No charge if bring a bottle and open another in house)

Paste (No. 28 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019) 3F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini Tel: 02 656 1003 Open: Mon-Sun 12pm-2pm, Mon-Sun 6:30pm-11pm www.pastebangkok.com Corkage fee per bottle: B1,000 for still wine; B1,200 for sparkling wine Saawaan 39/19 Soi Suanplu, Sathorn Rd Tel: 02 679 3775-6 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.saawaan.com Corkage fee per bottle: B1,000 for still wine; B1,500 for sparkling wine (Can waive if bring a bottle and open another (same type of wine) from the restaurant’s wine list) Saneh Jaan 130-132 Wireless Rd, Lumpini Tel: 02 263 2500 ext. 521 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm www.glasshouseatsindhorn.com/restaurant/sanehjaan Corkage fee per bottle: B1,000 for wine; B1,500 for magnum wine bottle; B3,000 for spirits (50% discount if bring a bottle and open another in house) Savelberg Oriental Residence Bangkok, 110 Wireless Rd, Lumpini Tel: 02252 8001 Open: Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.restaurantsavelberg.com Corkage fee per bottle: B1,000 Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd Tel: 02 162 9000 Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-12am www.kempinski.com/bangkok Corkage fee per bottle: B1,000 for still wine; B1,500 M AY/J U N 2019 | 19

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

for sparkling wine (No charge if bring a bottle and open another B1,500 bottle in house) Waldorf Astoria Bangkok 151 Ratchadamri Rd, Lumpini Tel: 02 846 8888 waldorfastoria3.hilton.com Corkage fee per bottle: B1,000 (No charge if bring a bottle and open another in house) Saffron 52F, 21/100 South Sathon Rd, Sathon Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com Corkage fee per bottle: B1,100 Canvas 113, 9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, Klongton Nua Tel: 099 614 1158 Open: Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm www.canvasbangkok.com Corkage fee per bottle: B1,500 only for wine bottle with excise stamp (No charge if bring a bottle and open another in house) The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn 106 North Sathorn Rd, Silom Tel: 02 344 4025 Open daily: 12pm-12am www.thehouseonsathorn.com Corkage fee per bottle: B2,000 for regular size wine bottle; B3,000 for magnum size wine bottle (If open a B6,200 bottle of Champagne in house can waive charge for two regular size wine bottles) Le Normandie 48 Oriental Avenue, Bang Rak Tel: 02 659 9000 ext. 7399 Open: Mon-Sat 12pm-2pm, 7pm-10pm www.mandarinoriental.com Corkage fee per bottle: B2,000 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 5F, MahaNakhon CUBE, 96 Narathiwas Rd Tel: 02 001 0698 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, Diner: 6:30pm-10pm robuchon-bangkok.com Corkage fee per bottle: B1,500 less than one litre Upstairs at Mikkeller 26 Ekamai Soi 10 Yaek 2, Phra Khanong Nua Tel: 091 713 9034 Open: Wed-Sat 6-10pm www.upstairs-restaurant.com Corkage fee per bottle: B1,500 2 0 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

Elements 25F The Okura Prestige Bangkok Hotel Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd, Lumpini Tel: 02 687 9099 Open: Tue-Sat 6pm-10:30pm www.facebook.com/ ElementsAtTheOkuraPrestigeBangkok Corkage fee per bottle: B1,605 Gaa (No. 16 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019) 68/4 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini Tel: 091 419 2424 Open daily: 6pm-9:30pm (closed on Tuesdays) www.gaabkk.com Corkage fee per bottle: B2,000 Mezzaluna 65F, lebua at State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd, Bang Rak Tel: 02 624 9999 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-1am www.lebua.com/mezzaluna Corkage fee per bottle: B10,000 Sirocco 63F, Tower Club at lebua 1055 Silom Rd, Bang Rak Tel: 02 624 9555 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.lebua.com/sirocco Corkage fee per bottle: B10,000 CRU Champagne Bar 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd, Pathumwan Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com Corkage fee per bottle: No outside food or drink allowed (No. 2 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019) Gaggan 68/1 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd Tel: 02 652 1700 Open: Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm www.eatatgaggan.com Corkage fee per bottle: No outside food or drink allowed (No. 4 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants) Sühring 10 Yen Akat Soi 3, Chong Nonsi Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: Mon-Fri 5:30pm-9:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30pm-12:30pm, 5:30pm-9:30pm www.restaurantsuhring.com Corkage fee per bottle: No outside food or drink allowed bangkok101.com

MICHELIN PLATE 2019

FIND 3 AMAZING SPANISH DINING ZONES ALL AT ONE

INCREDIBLE ROOFTOP RESTAURANT – UNO MAS

UNO MAS restaurant at Centara Grand at CentralWorld brings you three distinct Spanish dining concepts all under one roof - 54 floors above Bangkok. Head into our Wine Cellar and choose one (or a few) bottles from over 2,000 New and Old World wines; for delectable light bites, the Tapas & Raw Bar is the place to be; or, to make a proper night of it, we recommend booking a table at UNO MAS’s semi-alfresco Dining Deck where you can enjoy the restaurant’s full a la carte and Seasonal Tasting Menu while taking in the incredible high-rise, panoramic view across central Bangkok. Book your table now at UNO MAS, with prices for our current Seasonal Tasting Menu starting from just THB 2,555++ per person with additional wine pairing available. 999/99 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan Bangkok,Thailand For reservations please contact T: 02-100-6255

E: diningcgcw@chr.co.th

UNOMASBANGKOK

unomasbangkok.com

UNOMAS_BANGKOK

@ontopoftheworld

CITY PULSE | my bkk

Pattarapol Ponraritt Head Wine Sommelier of Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park When did you first become a Sommelier? My career path as a bartender started ten years ago. I then became a junior sommelier for two restaurants: Zense Gourmet Deck & Lounge Panorama at CentralWorld and Scarlett at Pullman G Silom. At the same time, I advanced my knowledge by studying a “Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level 2” course. I officially became a sommelier in 2015, when I had a chance to be part of the opening team of a famous French restaurant in Bangkok, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, which marked an important step for the Thai culinary industry and for me. What inspired you to become a Sommelier? When I started my career ten years ago, I didn’t have any knowledge about wine. It was hard to get accurate information from senior bartenders at that time. I can say that I fell in love with the taste of wine: it feels alive; its taste is very meticulous and adaptable to change. Once, I tasted the quality of a wine and found that it had already been able to breathe, which changed it for the better. This made me smile and fascinated me. Since then, I have tried to taste many wines from different places and years, I found that although the wine had been fermented from the same breed of grapes, the taste could be totally different depending on the company, year and country. This is the reason I’m still in love with wine. 2 2 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

What are some of the difficulties you face as a Sommelier in Bangkok? Of course, there are difficulties being a sommelier in Bangkok. Firstly, the high tax on wine: as you know, wine is classified as a luxury good, the same as a sports car or brand name product. Furthermore, there are not many imported wine guidebooks, which makes education even more difficult. They were the challenges I had. Many people left the career path because of these difficulties. Secondly, the temperature in Thailand. Many people might ignore this issue, but for a sommelier it is very important and can be a big problem. We need to be attentive not only to the temperature before serving, but also to the wine storage process. Guests do not know how well the wine they order has been stored,

so it is our duty to control the quality of the wine throughout the purchasing process, delivery process and storage process. Last but not least is society’s perceptions of alcohol. People always think that alcohol is a major cause of accidents, such as car crashes. Because of this, the Thai government has launched many measures to control and restrict the alcohol business, such as limiting sales, licensing times, increasing alcohol tax, prohibition on certain days, and even banning the promotion of wine on social media. But from my point of view, we can prevent negative situations by giving people proper information about alcohol and having serious penalties. The fact is that Thailand generates more than one billion baht from the tourism industry, and a large part of the revenue comes from the food and beverage industry. Are there resources for Bangkok Sommeliers? Yes, we have a community of sommeliers in Bangkok. We have regular meetings to discuss and exchange experiences. In each meeting, we always create activities by bringing several bottles of wine and covering the labels, and guessing the country, the type of grape, the year and the cost. Or we discuss how the taste will change after we put the wine in a decanter. This activity might look like just a funny game, but we are trying to increase our knowledge and improve our service to our guests. We mostly surprise each bangkok101.com

my bkk | CITY PULSE

other with New World wines that are hard to find in Bangkok, and even some Old World wines. What does it take to be a successful Sommelier in Bangkok? Learning is the key. In the past, learning about wine was very difficult as we couldn’t find the right guidebooks, but nowadays we can easily find all the information we need online. The second factor is opportunity. Thailand is one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations, and many famous Michelin-starred chefs and celebrated winemakers now visit the country. This provides good opportunities for us to learn, taste and exchange experiences with experts. Third is society. The number of wine lovers in Thailand is increasing, and our passion brings us together. We share information about our new favourite wines, new labels, etc. This presents a good opportunity for junior sommeliers to learn and develop their ability. As knowledge bangkok101.com

increases, the benefit goes back to customers who get better advice, better service and better wine to pair with their food.

Rather than just trying to sell the most expensive wine, we should study and advise. The guest’s happiness is our biggest return.

What advice would you give to someone looking to start a career as a Sommelier? Be an observer! A sommelier should be curious, eager for knowledge and never stop learning. You need to know about wine and grape origins–not only the geography but also the climate of each country, as it directly affects the taste of the wine. Be a great chef! You should love to cook and have a good sense of matching wine with food, because the food and ingredients are another key factor that affects the taste of wine. Be a big planner! Each year we have any number of wines due to be produced, and some vintages (production years) can be very rare and expensive. So, we are the ones who increase the value of that meal by choosing the right wine. Be the best mate! A good sommelier is someone who matches the right wine for guests.

What’s important to understand about being a sommelier? As mentioned earlier, the most important thing about being a good sommelier is learning. We have internal activities to exchange information and experiences in the sommelier community, including blind taste tests. This activity is like homework for sommeliers; when the label is revealed we are sometimes shocked because the most expensive wines don’t always taste as expected. We recently held two blind tasting events at Saneh Jaan and 80/20. We invited our fellow sommelier friends to join as we held wine pairing for guests. Everyone was randomly provided with food and we needed to match it with wine–this was a good challenge for everyone and received very good feedback from guest so please stay tuned for future activities like this. interview by Joseph Lam M AY/J U N 2019 | 23

Coronation of Rama X

n May 4, 2019, Thailand’s King Maha Vajiralongkorn received his official coronation as Thailand’s constitutional monarch. For most Thais, this coronation is the first in their lifetimes. His kingship was inherited after the 70-year reign of his father, King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who passed away in 2016 and was cremated in October 2017. In accordance with the king’s wish to observe a two-year mourning period, the royal office delayed his coronation until 2019. As the 10th king of the Chakri dynasty, founded in 1782, the present king is also known by his dynastic title, Rama X. Although Thailand’s National Legislative Assembly officially acknowledged his accession to the throne in November 2017, the coronation formally completed the process, nearly 70 years after the last royal coronation in Thailand, that of his father King Bhumibol in May 1950. Thailand’s coronation rites are a blend of Hindu and Buddhist

Joe’s Bangkok

Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.

traditions dating back several centuries to the Ayuthaya era (1350 - 1767). The heart of the coronation rituals revolves around water, and includes both a purification bathing ceremony and an anointing with sacred water, carried out by white-garbed Brahmin priests. This is followed by the actual crowning of the king, and then the investiture of the royal regalia, the royal utensils, and the royal weapons of sovereignty. When Ayuthaya was sacked in 1767 by Burmese troops of the Konbaung Dynasty, most records pertaining to royal ceremonies were destroyed, so many of the rituals observed today were re-constructed beginning with the reign of the Chakri dynasty’s first king, Rama I, who established the Rattanakosin Kingdom with Bangkok as the capital in 1782. At this time, a committee of officials and monks created a new manual of royal ceremonies for the court. Meanwhile, they ordered the creation of a new set of the royal regalia and utensils. Since 1785, coronation ceremonies have remained more or less the same. Preparatory rituals for the coronation began a month earlier, with the collecting of sacred waters around the country. Water for the purification bath was collected between 11:52am and 12:38pm on Saturday–a time deemed auspicious by Thai court astrologers–by senior government officials from five key rivers around the country and from four ancient ponds in Suphan Buri. The rivers–referred to as Bencha Suttha Khongkha and representing five rivers in India, the origin of these traditions–are the Bang Pakong, Pasak, Chao Phraya, Ratchaburi and Phetchaburi. The

four ponds are Sa Ket, Sa Kaeo, Sa Khongkha and Sa Yamuna. For the subsequent anointing, the water was taken from 107 sources in 76 provinces across Thailand. Brahmin priests further sanctified the waters during a ritual at Bangkok’s Wat Suthat, after which the waters were moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the holiest royal temple in Thailand. The official crowning took place on May 4 at the Bhadrapitha Throne in the Grand Palace, officially marking the beginning of the 66-year-old King’s reign. On May 5, the king’s official name and signature are inaugurated, and an updated ranking of royal family members was officially registered. Following this, a royal parade proceeded from the Grand Palace to Wat Bovorniwet, Wat Ratchabophit and Wat Phra Chetuphon (Wat Pho). At each temple, the newly crowned king paid respect to the primary Buddha statues and the ashes of former kings and queens. Around 400,000 people gathered along the streets near the Grand Palace and royal temples during the ceremonies. On May 6, the final day, King Rama X granted an audience to the public and to foreign diplomats at the Grand Palace, completing his first public action as a full accessed monarch. Afterwards, the second biggest royal event of the year will take place in late October, when a royal barge procession will carry His Majesty to Wat Arun for the royal Krathin ceremony, which marks the end of the Buddhist Lent and involves the presenting of robes to monks. Tens of thousands of Thais will line the banks of the Chao Phraya River to observe the royal barges.

SNAPSHOTS | now new next

Peeramon Chomdhavat

A promising dance artist taking a dramatic turn into the theatrical world of costume design

nlike most performing artists, Peeramon Chomdhavat or Big leaped into the realm of dramatic arts head on. He went into this profession without any formal education. Big recalls, “At first, I didn’t take dance classes but taught myself from watching TV and videos. I went to try-outs, contests, and auditions. In 1987 when I was only 16, I got a part in Patravadi Mejudhon (then Sritrairat Brady)’s musical Gheb Dow Duang Mai Pai Sai Fha in which I danced, sang, and acted like a ‘triple threat’.

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“Then I learned jazz dance and academic techniques with Aree Sahavejjabhand and trained ballet techniques with Pornpimol Kanthatham for the entrance examination into the Department of Western Dance, Chulalongkorn University. Back then there was only a small circle of performers so I got to practise and work with many groups including the Ballet Association of Thailand, presided by Thanpuying Varaporn Pramoj.” Big continues, “I took two years off from study and danced professionally in Paris—first at

Le Jeune Ballet de France (JBF) and then at the Red Notes Dance Company. I toured with JBF in France and other countries in Europe, Asia, and Africa for one year. My forte is in contemporary and modern repertoire. So I auditioned for the second company and got the only position over a hundred of applicants. I was chosen to suit their distinctive relapsed style.” As luck would have it, Big had a two-month contract as a corps de ballet at the Paris Opéra to perform in Les contes d’Hoffmann. bangkok101.com

now new next | SNAPSHOTS

Big enthuses, “I gained so much experience working at the Opéra Bastille. I observed what went on not only on stage but also behind the scene. Between rehearsals, I toured all the departments. I’m always interested in costumes so I went to see the wigs, the shoes, and other studios.” Big recounts, “After my return and graduation in 1995, I danced, choreographed, and collaborated with several overseas artists from Hong Kong, Singapore, and Japan. We worked for international projects and art festivals in contemporary dance and theatre which toured in Asia and Europe, like in Germany and Scandinavia.” Professional dancing is known to be arduous but Big picks up his second skill, costume making, of which he becomes renowned. He explains, “In 1997 I took private lessons with my aunt, Spun Thienprasiddhi, a Thai couturière. As her apprentice, I learned about fabric, basic pattern, draping, sewing, designing, applying, dying, and problem solving. With age and physicality, our muscle strength and ability to dance change. It naturally fades but if you treat

NOW NEW NEXT Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he meets with creative minds and artistic souls from both Thailand and overseas. From traditional, to contemporary and avant-garde, he finds out about the visions, inspirations, and creations of these talented individuals. bangkok101.com

and keep your body well, you can maintain perfection and go through difficulties. The last time I danced was in La Bayadère almost a decade ago.” Big founded Aporn-Ngam Studio where he recreates authentic, classical, and imaginative Thai costumes. Big muses, “I researched from many sources and evidences such as old photographs, manuscripts, mural paintings, sculptures, antiques, and documents. Since the change of political regime, many arts have been altered. I desire to show the original Thai theatrical costumes for Khon (mask dance drama) and Lakhon (dance theatre). Most of these have been discarded, lost, or in tatters. Besides what’s in the National Museum, we have discovered a whole pile of costumes and even gilded accessories locked up in the cabinets at the Department of Performing Arts, the Ministry of Fine Arts. These display delicate embroidery details and refined artistry of the craftsmen during Kings Rama VI and VII’s eras.” Big enlightens, “Each palace household used to have a troupe of musicians and dancers as entertainment and sometimes they performed together. Besides different choreography, they even had their own styles in creating costumes from pattern, proportion, colour combination, embroidery, etc. Costumes gathered and found were from the Palaces of Suan Kularb, Petchaboon, and Worawan, where Prince Narathip Prapanphong’s Preedalai Theatre was. The accessories from his palace used diamanté like costume jewellery in Western style. With these data, I synthesise and reinterpret them into my personal style of Thai theatrical costumes and accessories.” Big’s exquisite costumes become viable business in both dramatic and realistic contexts.

He clarifies, “After I had made quite a collection, we performed at art festivals and charity events. Some classical costumes with fine embroidery can be exclusively rented for wedding ceremonies. I would style, dress, and consult for the couple. I also dress Nang Songkran (Goddesses of Songkran), and lead actresses in TV series such as Pis-sawat (Blood and Treasures) and Ayodhya. I also consult on costumes for the royalsponsored Khon performances. Every year I created new sets of costumes for models representing Regency, a Thai brandy, in diverse styles, from period to fusion, surrealistic, and imaginary.” From 2000 to 2018 Big was involved in choreography and consultation for the Miss Thailand Universe productions. He describes, “They needed someone to direct the movements on stage for the pageants, various performers, and dancers in different segments of competitions in swimsuits, traditional costumes, and evening gowns. In 2018, for Nicolene Pichapa Limsnukan, Miss Thailand World, I created Dvaravati-period costume, which won the Best Thai Costume, and she was the 1st runner-up in Miss World. I selected the style that perfectly fits her strong and powerful character, enhances her honeyhued complexion, and adds the story of mystical elegance.” Big concludes, “I’m content about what I’m doing now but I want to inform bureaucrats, educators, younger generations, and the public audience about our culture. The obstacles come from lack of knowledge, ignorance, and fixed beliefs. Like the current Thai costume mania, it’s nice to see how popular it is but it should be properly taught in schools. So children will learn how to wear them for appropriate occasions. Then they will understand and appreciate our heritage more.” M AY/J U N 2019 | 27

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Yaa Dong

Herbal drugs, alcohol, and sex in a bottle His Stable. But the most potent claims are aphrodisiac: Manly Man, Moaning Mistress, Never Flaccid, Murmuring Lady. And as Anchana Wichit archly comments, “with such high alcohol content, a possible side-effect is yaa dong droop.” Yaa dong has always been associated with animism and folklore, which is still believed by labouring people,” says vendor Nikhom. “It’s a pity that yaa dong became a low class symbol, although it’s a kind of traditional Thai medicine.” Many doctors-like seemingly half the populationreportedly find herbalism at least partly effective. hailand’s recent traditional chaser of astringent fruit like star Laws ‘liberalised’ in 2000 healing boom has seen gooseberry or tamarind. have ushered in snazzily branded Siamese herbs migrate Alcohol comes easiest and sato (fermented liquor) and into creams, scrubs, teas, oils and cheapest from the distilling of rice wines made from mangosteen wraps. Yet perhaps their most into lao khao (white spirit), though or lychee. Still, quality control effective agent rarely appears on Thai whisky (actually sugar-cane remains critical; one fruit wine the spa menu: alcohol. “There are rum) adds the piquant flavour. bottle exploded on the agriculture two main ways the Thais get the “Forty-degree proof is better than minister’s desk. Given the liquor goodness from herbs,” says Khun 28-degree, because it extracts the monopolies, commercialisation Jirawan of the pharmaceutical firm medicine more,” explains Parinya. favours big firms, while 15° proof Osotspa. “One is to boil; another “Low proof alcohol or sura chae limits are too low for yaa dong. is to dong lao (alcohol-pickled (fermented liquor) dissolve it Meanwhile all Thai distillers endure medicine; yaa dong for short) slower.” a state campaign against alcohol, still gets supped from discreet Like an early Red Bull, yaa dong though the pro-health message stalls. Most offer at least four boosts energy. Hence brew names is largely driven by religious large jars of different recipes, like 7-Layer Wall, Rama Goes moralism. Like all temperance each stoppered with red cloth. To War or Tribesman Carrying movements that combat human The tonic’s hue-from amber to Buffalo. Others imply animal nature, it ultimately fails. russet to ox-blood-depends on prowess through evocative names: Perhaps yaa dong vendors the stalks, tubers and wood chips Towering Dragon, Tiger Force, need to cast a love charm on inside. It tastes best taken with a Male Elephant Power, Horse Bursts lawmakers.

> Very Thai River Books

by Philip Cornwel-Smith

with photos by John Goss

and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 2 8 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

Now in its 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture and an influential must-read among foreigners and Thais. It guides you on an unconventional technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand Thai. This column features an excerpt from a different chapter every issue. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic and snap up a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

GranMonte Vineyard and Winery in Asoke Valley, Khao Yai

WINE 101

COUNTRY ESCAPES

or some, the idea of Thailand being a wine country is out of the question. But for those in the know, Thailand has joined the list of countries producing new latitude wines quite some time ago. While the flavours may differ from the European wines we know all too well, for the open-minded and adventurous food and wine fans, you wouldn’t want to miss these vineyards’ produce. As the wine scene in Thailand continues to grow, we see many new sommeliers pop up at the hottest restaurants and natural wines begin to appear more frequently on the wine list. This issue, we introduce Thailand’s wine country. These vineyards serve not only as wine producers, but also travel destinations in themselves offering top notch accommodation, spectacular views and everything related to wine from tours to tastings and paired dinners. The best part is these vineyards are easily accessible with the closest being less than 200km from Bangkok. The furthest is merely 220km southwest sitting just outside Hua Hin. We’re taking you to the scenic Khao Yai where an award-winning vineyard provides complimentary wine tours for guests. GranMonte is home to majestic mountain views and sits along a quiet Khao Yai road just 20km from Khao Yai National BANGKOK Park. To the southeast of Bangkok we have Silverlake Vineyard, an absolute treasure Pattaya located just 20km from Pattaya city. Silverlake, similar to GranMonte, is home to a guest Hua Hin house, restaurants and spectacular views. To the southwest of Bangkok we have Monsoon Vineyard, located 40km from Hua Hin’s lively night market and beach. Monsoon’s The Sala Wine Bar & Bistro is worth the trip in itself and could easily be one of the beachside town’s top restaurants situated on an outdoor terrace with hints of sea salt in the air.

TRAVEL | focus on wine: khao yai

GranMonte Vineyard and Winery A cosy family atmosphere just steps away from Khao Yai National Park By Vittoria Dell’Anna

ranMonte Estate is located just down Khao Yai hills, and that’s where it takes its name from (Gran Monte means big mountain in Italian language). Mr. Visooth Lohitnavy opened the vineyard in 1998 and his wife Sakuna and two daughters, Visootha (Nikki) and Suvisooth (Mimi) are actively working in the family business. Nikki is an oenologist and she is also the first female winemaker in Thailand; she takes care of the vineyard and winery operations. At the moment they have several international varieties such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Semillon, Verdelho, Durif and Grenache, but also some others under experiment. Everything is monitored with a Smart system 3 2 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

in order to achieve the best quality in tropical climate. Vincotto restaurant serves authentic Thai cuisine using traditional recipes from Lohitnavy family with a touch of innovation. 2017 Sakuna Syrah Rosé is a great pair with spicy Thai dishes and gives a touch of freshness and sweetness. One of the newest releases is 2017 Gradient Syrah: a part of the grapes was whole-bunch fermented which shows some cool climate characters of plums, raspberry jam, with a hint of menthol, fine tannins and lingering finish of vanilla oak. The multiple award winning 2017 GranMonte Durif is the only Durif grown and made in Thailand. It can be paired with spicy Thai dishes, pork, steak bangkok101.com

focus on wine: khao yai | TRAVEL

and sausage and it includes a mix of ripe mulberry, plum, black currant, cumin, vanilla and mocha oak. The 120-seat restaurant atmosphere is cosy and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a beautiful deck overlooking the river (with the possibility of dining outdoor). The vineyard tour takes guests through different grape varieties with the beautiful background of Khao Yai hills. Viticulture, techniques, climate and soil are briefly explained and the mini bus stops at the most scenic points of the estate for great Instagram opportunities. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also very interesting to visit the winery and the lab and take a look at the fermentation tanks, barrel room and winemaking machines. The tour ends at Montino Cellar Door, where guests can taste both bangkok101.com

the wine and the other culinary products, such as the delicious grape juice, the wine salt, red wine jellies, jam and cookies. If you wish to stay overnight, GranMonte Guest House offers a pleasant retreat, surrounded by the 40 acres of vineyard. The Guest House is pet friendly and each room has a nice view either on the vineyard or on the forest.

GranMonte Vineyard and Winery 52 Moo 9 Phayayen, Pakchong, Nakornrachasima Tel: 044 009 543-4, 081 900 8282, 080 661 7555 Open daily: 7:30am-8pm www.granmonte.com

M AY/J U N 2019 | 33

TRAVEL | focus on wine: pattaya

Silverlake Vineyard Boutique winery, guesthouse, and restaurant in one By Bruce Scott

hailand certainly doesn’t yet have a wine pedigree to rival Napa Valley or the Bordeaux region, but the charming Silverlake Vineyard, located about 20 minutes south of Pattaya City, certainly offers visitors a pleasant day in the country—with 480 acres of picturesque landscape centered around a large natural lake that does tend to turn a bit silvery in the setting sun. Daily shuttle bus tours take guests on a trip around the vineyard’s main scenic points, including giant windmills, colourful flower gardens, row after row of maturing grapevines, and finally to the winery itself where the fermentation and barrel-aging takes place. The origins of the winery date back to 2002 when Surachai Tangjaitrong and his wife Supansa

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Nuangpirom (a former movie starlet) envisioned a place where lovers of good wine and great music could find both in a beautifully cultivated outdoor setting. Their first vintage was ready in 2006 and currently the winery produces about 10,000 bottles a year, available through the vineyard shop. During my visit I sample the Silverlake Chenin Blanc, a crisp, pale white with a fruity aroma, as well as the Silverlake Shiraz. Unlike some of the vineyard’s blends, this red is made from 100 per cent grapes grown on the property. It’s smooth, with a nice ruby colour and a hint of spiciness. The final stop on the tour is a visit to the Villaggio shop, styled to resemble a Tuscan village square, complete with courtyard fountain. Here, you bangkok101.com

focus on wine: pattaya | TRAVEL

can shop for vineyard souvenirs—everything from grape juice to grape tarts—or stop for a quick snack and/or a frothy cappuccino. There’s also a nice outdoor deck overlooking the rows of grapevines that stretch out from the base of the surrounding green hillsides. Should you want to prolong your stay even more, the Silverlake Wine and Grill Restaurant and Pizza Café, located directly across the main road, serves up classic Italian fare—including delicious wood-fire oven cooked pizzas—as well as Thai specialties and a selection of sizzling steaks. Seating consists of 90 in the high-ceilinged indoor area, and 40+ on the outdoor terrace. There’s also a sizeable Thai and international wine list. bangkok101.com

Silverlake Vineyard

31/62 Moo 7, Na Jomtien, Pattaya Tel: 02 261 6565 Open daily: Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 8:30am-6:30pm www.silverlakevineyard.com M AY/J U N 2019 | 35

TRAVEL | focus on wine: hua hin

Head For the Hills! Superb wine and food pairing menus at Monsoon Valley Vineyard By Bruce Scott

f you’re serious about wine you might roll your eyes at the mere thought of a winery in Thailand but, as the old saying goes, “don’t knock it, till ya try it!” That bit of sage advice couldn’t be truer when it comes to visiting the Monsoon Valley Vineyard. In fact, renowned wine critic Robert Parker remarked that the 2008 Monsoon Valley Columbard “had a resemblance to the wonderful Colombard that used to be made in Napa Valley by the owners of Chalone”. Built on a former elephant corral, this valley vineyard sits roughly 150 metres above sea level, protected from some of the harsher extremes of the Thai weather. The soil type mixes sandy loam with slate, making it perfect for planting Chenin Blanc, Shiraz, Sangiovese, Muscat, and the aforementioned Colombard. This geographical

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region is on the 13th latitude, which classifies the vineyard’s output as ‘New Latitude’ wine—a combination of the New and the Old World, accentuated with an exotic touch. The first planting dates back to December 2004, and the area used for cultivation has increased year by year. Currently there are 300 rai (100 acres) given over to planting, and the grapes grown here are processed in nearby Samut Sakorn province at the Siam Winery—founded in 1986 by Chalerm Yoovidhya (the man behind Red Bull)—where German-born winemaker Kathrin Puff (pictured) oversees the production of Monsoon Valley wines, the label used by Siam Winery for their premium vinos. Visiting Monsoon Valley Vineyard (the name has been changed from Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, to bangkok101.com

focus on wine: hua hin | TRAVEL

avoid confusion) is a wonderful daytime excursion if you are in the Hua Hin area. Visitors who make the journey—it’s about 45 km west of downtown Hua Hin—can explore the vineyard by jeep, by mountain bike, or on the back of an elephant. But tour or no tour, it’s worth the trip just to experience the fabulous food and extraordinary views on offer at The Sala Wine Bar & Bistro, where an elevated, outdoor, wraparound terrace overlooks the broad expanse of mountain and valley. There’s lots to choose from on the menu, but indulging in one of the expertly curated food and wine paired tasting sets is a wise move. Fans of fruity wine will love the Monsoon Valley White Shiraz, which has an easily discernable strawberry backbone, offset by a little cracked pepper. It makes a great seafood mate, and in this bangkok101.com

case paired well with the lobster and red curry. Other highlights included the Monsoon Valley Shiraz, which beautifully complimented the lovely smoked duck breast, while the 2011 Cuvée de Siam Rouge—another of the black tiger label premium vintages—perfectly partnered with a juicy cocao accented roasted lamb chop. Finally, the Monsoon Valley Muscat, served with a tiramisu parfait dessert, capped the meal off beautifully.

Monsoon Valley Vineyard

1 Moo 9, Baankhork Chang Patana, Nong Plup, Hua Hin Prachuap Khiri Khan Tel: 081 701 0222, 081 701 0444 Open daily: 9am-6:30pm (Nov-Mar 9am-8pm) www.monsoonvalley.com M AY/J U N 2019 | 37

| ART & CULTURE

ART Suffocating Geometries by Morakot Ketklao

uffocating Geometries explores connections between the personal and the shared experience of global climate change. Ketklao relates her everyday observations of the nuances and subtleties of her immediate environment to those of our ever-changing planet through abstract forms. She has developed an emotive visual language that expresses her concerns about the loss the of the natural world while exploring themes of compassion, empathy, and friendship, all united by our collective mourning of nature in the age of the Anthroposcene. Currently, she works as a full-time Art lecturer at Chiang Mai University and is based in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Suffocating Geometries will be on display at La Lanta Fine Art from April 27 until May 30, 2019. La Lanta Fine Art 2198/10-11 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 22 02 260 5381 | Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun by appointment www.lalanta.com

facebook.com/bangkokartmap bangkok101.com

M AY/J U N 2019 | 39

ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

UNTIL MAY 12 Joyous Celebrations

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

939 Rama I Rd | 02 214 6630-8 | info@bacc.or.th Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th

The 8th White Elephant Art Award exhibition “Joyous Celebrations” presents realistic and figurative painting, sculpture and mixed media artworks which received awards from the 8th edition of the competition in 2019. The exhibition is composed of 20 award-winning artworks and 36 selected artworks. To conclude, there are 56 works of art exhibited this year.

UNTIL MAY 31 Jean-Michel Aucler Ananta Kama Gallery

A14 Lhong1919, Chiang Mai Rd, Klong San | 086 633 0300 Daily 10am-7pm | www.facebook.com/anantakama

Aucler`s work is provocative and delicate, enchanting the audience into a dichotomy of the primeval and civilised worlds. Inspired by his extensive travels, his work forms a bridge between Eastern and Western traditions which he exhibits throughout various galleries and private collections in Europe, America and Asia. Marie-Helene Grinfeder one said, “He is in love with life. His work is a true reflection of a dreamer, who never stops conjuring tricks with painting, colours and shapes. He is the conjurer of the soul.”

UNTIL JUNE 2 Phénomène Joyman Gallery

357-359 Maha Chai Rd | 065 124 2222 Tue-Sun 11am-8:30pm | www.joymangallery.com

Phenomena exhibition, a memorable phenomenon. This is an exhibition created from the ideal image symbol through real experiences of all three artists: Puntita Meeboonsabai, Chatchawan Pootawong, and Kamolchat Pangtho. This exhibition talks about the beliefs associated with the human spirit. Each artist has raised various aspects used to analyse, screen and convey their ideas and feelings through their work which will mention the following story. 4 0 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

bangkok101.com

exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

UNTIL JUNE 24 Limbo

Kathmandu Photo Gallery

87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 02 234 6700 Tue-Sat 11am-6pm | www.kathmanduphotobkk.com

The daydreaming women section of ‘Limbo’ invites a more complex response, but perhaps only because the world has so objectified women as sex and status symbols that it’s almost impossible to see women simply as human beings who have become the preferred photographic subjects for both men and women, young and old. Their pronounced individuality enhances the universality of their mood. They are walking on crowded streets, but they are clearly elsewhere, absent, voided—in limbo.

UNTIL JUNE 30 The Remembrance Subhashok The Art Centre

Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 | 02 662 0299 Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6:30pm www.facebook.com/sacbangkok

The narrative within each artwork represents a daily journal of which records memories and feelings during that time. This includes relationships that affect the artist himself whether they are sorrow, loneliness or happiness. The artist develops his perforation technique performed by knife called “knife drawing”, a step up from his previous practice of pen drawing on paper. The reason for this is because it is more responsive to his true feeling.

UNTIL JULY 31 From Monet to Kadinsky River City Bangkok

1F Unit 182, Charoen Krung Soi 24 | 02 237 0077 ext.182 Daily 10am-10pm | www.rivercitybangkok.com

The exhibition brings together some of the most respected artists in Western art history through the use of latest digital technology in projection and surround sound systems. Discover the art during the late 19th and early 20th centuries during the industrial revolution which brought new technology as well as political overthrows and war that shocked the world. New art movements emerged with the use of hidden or unapparent meanings that were later united under the term “modernism”. bangkok101.com

M AY/J U N 2019 | 41

Art & Culture

Photo Feature

SAKON PROJECT Assoc. Prof. Sakon Phu-Ngamdee, Ph.D.

His paintings have been in 17 solo exhibitions and 65 group exhibitions. He is well-known for simple oil on canvas artwork with rough brush strokes that leave a raw surface texture in order to highlight freestyle painting. On the one hand it reflects what the eyes can detect on a daily basis. On the other hand it plays

a part as the artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diary or journal that keeps track of his encounters in everyday life without any judgment but rather as a pure, peaceful, and innocent way to communicate. For this exhibition, the prolific painter has created yet another set of masterpieces that is able to illustrate joy, fun, and optimism similar to the youthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worldview. Sakon is currently a parttime faculty at the School of Communication Arts and Management Innovation, National Institute of Development Administration, Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts, Rajamangala University of Technology Thanyaburi, and School of Communication Arts, Sukhothai Thammathirat Open University.

Until June 22

ARDELâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Third Place Gallery 137-137/1, Sukhumvit 63 Rd, Thong Lo Soi 10 | Tel: 02 422 2092, 02 422 2091 | Monday-Sat: 10am-6pm www.ardelgallery.com

The entrance and hallway of Saffron at Banyan Tree Bangkok

AROY

(means tasty)

it’s mango season again The Eatery at Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15 invites all mango lovers to experience the four highlights of ‘Mango Madness’ menu made from Nam Dok Mai mangoes, a gold-yellow fruit with a delicious sweet taste and unique aroma throughout May. For more information, please call 02 309 3000 or www.facebook.com/fourpointsbangkok

new punjabi brunch menu Chef Bharat and his team change and add new dishes weekly to the brunch menu at Punjab Grill Bangkok. The buffet is served every Sunday 12pm-3pm, including signature Rose Lassi, Indian subcontinent’s famous street food appetisers at Chaat counter, shrimps, paneer tikka, assorted vegetables, and “Bhutte De Kebab” at live Grill & Tawa station and “Tandoori Chicken” and “Raan E Sikandari” at Carving station. Mains like “Butter Chicken”, “Mutton Rogan Josh”, “Paneer Makhani” and “Dal Makhani”, “Subziyan De Milani”, and “Baingan Bharta”, as well as different biryanis are also available. End the meal with Chef Bharat’s signature version of “Rabri Kulfi” and a cup of the freshly brewed Indian Masala Tea. For reservation, call 02 645 4952, 091 818 5248 or visit www.punjabgrillbangkok.com

new themed afternoon tea by new executive pastry chef Lobby Lounge at Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok unveils a Ginza, Tokyo, 1920s themed afternoon tea, curated by the new Executive Pastry Chef Christoph Widmer. The set composes of multi-sensory items including Chestnut Meringues Mont Blanc Cake, Strawberry Shortcake with fresh strawberries from the Togichi Prefecture, Hazelnut Mille-Feuille topped with juicy Satsuma also known as Mikan, Uji Green Tea Castella Cake using only the finest green tea from ancient city of Uji, the Japanese’s most favoured Juchheim Baumkuchen or Traditional Layer Cake and Framboise Rose made with lavish Rosé wine, etc. Contact: 02 236 7777, 02 236 9952, and restaurants.slbk@shangri-la.com or visit www. shangri-la.com/bangkok/shangrila/dining/bars-lounges/lobby-lounge

FOOD & DRINK | kitchen backstories

Kitchen Backstories

Exploring new latitudes

t’s 37 degrees, and the summer sun is beating down fiercely from a near cloudless sky. As my ride drives away, I shade my eyes and take in the scenery from under a cashew tree, its bright red fruits drooping down generously. Extending beyond the horizon lie countless rows of green vines, surrounded on either side by dramatic, forest-covered mountains. I’ve finally arrived at the GranMonte Estate: home to Thailand’s most awarded wines–and the first and only fully qualified Thai oenologist and winemaker. A Thai winery? Unbeknownst to many, Thailand has, in fact, been producing wine from grapes grown locally for decades. Today, wineries across the country are producing everything from the classic still wines made from Syrah and Chenin Blanc–to bottle-fermented sparkling, sweet and natural wines made from both well-known and more obscured international varietals. In recent years, thanks to intrepid vintners and advances in technology, their success is growing on the global stage–and some say it won’t be long before Thai wines are on equal footing with their old and new world counterparts. GranMonte is a Thai winery that I, for one, will be following closely in the years to come. Situated in

Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. As a lover of both food and culture. She believes that food offers much more than just means of sustenance; to her, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell the unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods 4 8 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

an area poised 350 metres above sea level, known for cooler, drier climes and terra rossa–its wines are presently the most decorated in Thailand, having won over 100 awards in the past four years. Spending some time there, one begins to understand why. The serene and majestic atmosphere, in fact, belies a thriving hotbed of dynamic experimentation and innovation, spearheaded by oenologist and winemaker Nikki Lohitnavy. In the vineyard, over 40 different grape varietals are being tested to see which will take root and flourish in their new tropical home; experiments with an organic plot are also underway. In the cellar, enormous, earthenware pots modelled after those used to ferment wine in Georgia 8,000 years ago, or kvevri, are employed to produce a natural wine; a few metres away, a crémant methode champenoise rosé awaits hand-riddling. And, the thing is–I get the sense we are only scratching the surface. As my last evening comes to a close, Nikki shares that it’s difficult to say exactly what ‘style’ inspires the winemaking at GranMonte for the process in the new latitudes ‘has no rules’. To her, what is most important is that, no matter the approach, wines express the terroir authentically–and sustainably. And, she adds, ‘what could be more sustainable than great wines borne from the land, people and spirit of our own country?’ I can’t help but leave feeling excited about the future of Thai wines. Epilogue: Early the following morning, I receive a message from Nikki asking, ‘Did you see them??’, followed by a series of photos showing fallen mangoes, and a bent flagpost. Indeed, it seems that only in a ‘new latitude’ Thai vineyard might you have to contend with wild elephants roaming in the night. bangkok101.com

eat like nym | FOOD & DRINK

Nittaya Neua Thod

love strolling around the multi-cultural areas of Bangkok. One of my favourites is the zone that runs from Pahurat market, where a local Indian community sells textiles and spices, to Pak Khlong Talat, the famous flower market, packed with every imaginable kind of tropical flowers. These areas are also enlivened by local schools and arts academies that add a dose of youthful energy and dynamism. In addition to being fun places to be, these areas are also hubs for delicious and reasonably priced local food. It doesn’t matter what time of the day you arrive, the streets and alleys are always crowded with makeshift shops, food carts and, of course, throngs of hungry passersby. Many of these restaurants cater to students, teachers and locals who expect the best food at the most affordable prices. After making my way through the churning crowds and running a gauntlet of various gastronomic temptations, I find myself in a little alley called Soi Kan Fai Fa which is my destination for the evening. The air is suddenly infused with rich and smoky aroma of fried beef, emanating from Nittaya Neua Thod (fried beef). Owner and cook, Khun Nittaya greets her customers with a smiling face as she holds out her menu, which features special prices for students. Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub insideout and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. Follow Nym on IG: nymster bangkok101.com

She has been selling her fried beef for many years but only recently moved to her current location. Her Neua Thod is perfect in texture, effortlessly soft and tender. Unsurprisingly, Khun Nittaya said she uses only the best quality beef and pays a lot of attention to cleaning the meat before marinating it for 20 minutes in fish sauce, soy sauce and sugar. There is no secret to the marinating process. The most significant part of the process is knowing exactly how to fry the beef in hot oil while maintaining its tenderness. “It’s not complicated to fry beef but observing and understanding its temperature and colour require some experience and skill,” explained Nittaya. When the oil is hot, she lays the freshly marinated beef in the hot wok while checking the colour of the meat and measuring the cooking time to ensure that the beef is fried just long enough for it to become a rich and tempting shade of golden brown. To maximise the experience, Nittaya’s dipping sauce is unique, enhancing the flavours and elevating the whole experience to another level. Her dipping sauce is made with sugar, fish sauce, roasted red chili and aromatic sawtooth coriander. There is not only Neua Thod but also cow tongue and liver. She slices the portions into manageable bite sized chunks and serves them up with the mouthwatering dipping sauce. Sometimes her clients call to place their orders and other times they travel to this area just to buy her famous Neua Thod. “It is my pleasure to make my customers happy for having my food,” declares Nittaya. Address: Nittaya Neua Thod is in the alleyway known as Soi Kan Fai Fa. Open daily 8am-5pm or until supplies are exhausted. If you want to place a big order, call ahead at 096 889 7128. M AY/J U N 2019 | 49

FOOD & DRINK | bitchin’ in the kitchen

New Year New Bitch:

A Thai New Year Overview

ell, as we’re bringing in the Thai New Year, known as Songkran, I thought— this would be the perfect opportunity to purge a few gripes that have been haunting the industry, but also highlight the positive trends and movements that are changing the face of the culinary scene in Thailand.

An Australian-born entrepreneur with Thai roots, Samantha Proyrungtong is the founder of Bangkokfoodies.com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community.She also runs her own marketing consulting agency and has become a well-known voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. 5 0 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

SINGLED OUT If you haven’t caught on by now, single-use plastic is bad, like—really bad. How often have you been in a tug of war with the store attendant trying to triple bag your cat food or dry pasta, or find that the straw ninjas at 7-Eleven slipped in three straws with your lightener bleach, only to add them to the growing pile of plastic under your sink at home. Previously only found at vegan cafés or eco-resorts that adopted a no-plastic-bag policy or invested in eco-friendly packing, food and beverage giants in Bangkok, such as Villa Market, Coffee Club, and even a celebrity campaign at 7-Eleven branches, have been guilt-tripped into doing the same. The move might appear to be a drop-in-the-ocean compared to global plastic pollution woes, but let’s take this as a great initiative to start a New Year. bangkok101.com

bitchin’ in the kitchen | FOOD & DRINK

LOVE THY NEIGHBOUR I may be as patriotic as the next person, but some Thai food zealots often forget to give food culture props where it’s due or are simply unaware of the many roots and origins of Thai food. Michelin Guide Thailand in sponsorship with TAT, previously ran a campaign competition that promoted Pad Thai, but more widely consumed by the locals are dishes like Larb, Sticky Rice and Som Tum (Papaya salad) from Isaan region (Northeastern Thailand) that shares a lot historically with neighbouring Laos, at least until borders went up. Recent years have seen a global “reclaiming” of Laotian dishes, in a movement to avoid being bundled with Thai cuisine. There’s even a viral hashtag #LaotianFoodMovement, pioneered by Laotian Chef, Seng Luangrath of Thip Khao in Washington DC, who won the James Beard award. Funky Lam Kitchen in Thonglor is a fine example of Lao food declaring its independence in Bangkok, with its edgy style and French-Lao touch. Let’s not forget the nowfamous Sorn restaurant that bagged a Michelin and an Asia’s 50 Best ranking in the space of six months and in doing so brought Southern food into the international spotlight. Yet, Southern Thai

food is also heavily influenced by the ethnic Malay people. The New Year is about sharing the love around and it’s about time we show to the world, the true roots and diversity of Thai cuisine. THE CHOSEN ONES Hallelujah! We can go for a fancy or smart dinner once again without the obligation to choose from a menu that’s either pricey or very pricey, avoiding a list of complicated bites that go on for an eternity. Not to say, they aren’t some of the best and worthiest meals I’ve had in my life, but I do miss the old school form of going to a restaurant and selecting whatever the heck I wanted. In the last two years, tasting menus have become the norm at finer or casual fine dining establishments but now the humble a la carte is making a comeback with restaurants like Nan Bei at brand-spankingnew Rosewood Bangkok and Front Room at The Waldorf Astoria which offer both menus styles and Thaan 31 Bangkok, Tenshino and 100 Mahaseth mostly dedicated to a la carte. Because, with a New Year comes New Year’s resolutions, it’s about the choices you make, so make them quick—we’re hungry!

Cooking School & Restaurant

Amy Dabbs SINGAPORE

08/01/2017

Jarinya Thanasoonthonkul Bangkok THAILAND

08/01/2017

BANGKOK : 233 South Sathorn Rd., Sathorn Bangkok 10120 Tel : +66 2 673 9353-8, Fax : +66 2 673 9355 cooking.school@blueelephant.com

PHUKET : 96 Krabi Road, Tambon Talad Neua, Phuket 83000 Tel : +66 (076) 354 355-7, Fax : +66 (076) 354 393 phuket@blueelephant.com

www.blueelephant.com bangkok101.com

M AY/J U N 2019 | 51

FOOD & DRINK | review

Chef Renu Homsombat

Saffron

Thai cuisine gracefully dressed up with finish of floral and perfume

he restaurant boasts an endless cityscape and a marmalade sunset before dinner hours. Warm modern setting with a touch of Thainess hints an innovative twist in the food here. Embellished in dark mahogany and gold, the ambience is ear-friendly and suitable for a quiet gathering. Proper Thai style service begins with a handwashing kit of warm jasmine fragranced water and clean white hand towel. Two rounds of amuse bouche arrive first: rice and saffron crackers with three types of paste and Miang Kham freshly garnished with homegrown organic microgreen and mauve butterfly peas handpicked from the chef’s very own garden. The heat from spicy green chilli dip (Nam Prik Noom) is cleverly toned down by the sweetness of tomatoes in Nam Prik Ong and Khao Tang Na Tang’s mild creamy coconut sauce. Saltiness of Chiang Rai fried pork compliments the finely sliced red

5 2 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

hot bird’s eye chilli in Miang Kham. Lunch and dinner are available both in sets and a la carte. A set lunch consists of three signature savoury dishes and a dessert; with a vegetarian option (B550++ per set plus one herbal drink). Tom Kha Gai from Anchan set had such a concentrated and soothing mouthfeel, owing to the premium coconut milk, and Gai Thod Bai Makroot from Saffron set flaunts crispy aromatic herb and dried chili. The presentation of each platter in the set lunch adheres to elegant simplicity yet the design of some separate menus meticulously adapts and surprises. Khao Soi Haeng: wok-tossed Chiang Mai pork sausage, egg noodle, northern style Hang Lay curry sauce, and pickled cabbage (B480) proves that a fused appearance can still adeptly combine genuine flavours of ingredients from various dishes. Rice serves as a crucial element in representing the basis of Thai cuisine as well as

enhancing the overall tasting experience of side dishes. In this case, you have not been to Saffron until you try the multi-colour rice in banana leaf, aesthetically cooked to perfection. Chef Renu Homsombat, Saffron’s Corporate Thai Chef says, diners can detect the passion and devotion displayed in her cooking. Inspired by her mother, she locks the original Thai flavours inside visual transformation and variation of spiciness level. Having multiple locations worldwide, she sets and maintains the same standard for Saffron by understanding the preferences of different groups of clientele. by Fha Kanch

Saffron

51-52F, Banyan Tree Bangkok Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, dinner 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com/en/thailand/ bangkok/dining/saffron bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Karmakamet Diner

Behind Emporium lays a diner fitted neatly into an aromatic store “the only drink I drink nowadays,” chef Som says, noting its clean, crisp flavour and nonexistent aftertaste. Next comes cold explosion, a combination of melon jelly, Oscietra caviar, cod roe and avocado cream which, when matched with the jalapeño and green chilies sauce, really dances on the tongue (B790). It’s followed by pan seared red snapper served with white banana prawns and a white bean stew and olive tapenade with chilli oil (B790). After the third dish it’s time to move to another Austrian vino K Blend. With good wine, you can taste its routes, chef Som tells us. Now we taste pici noodles, which serves a generous 700g lobster with madeira-infused bisque and handmade fettuccine with champignon and green asparagus. It’s a wholesome yet still light pasta dish. The final dish is a 10-14 hour braised beef tongue he Karmakamet Diner white cloth and a rose. Lit up with which is so soft that on first touch story began six years ago, golden lighting, it’s all intimate. The our knives don’t pierce the meat however the brand and the second floor is home to a 14-seat but pressed it like jelly. It’s served dream to co-own a restaurant of (minimum spend B10,000) and 16- alongside beef jus, scallop and a its owner Natthorn Rakshana and seat (B15,000) private dining rooms baby shrimp cake. his close friend chef Jutamas “Som” that can be combined to serve up Dessert brings us back to a Theantae began much earlier. In to 24 people. glass of prestige as we’re served an fact, they first set up the shop as a “People think we’re just a old fashioned donut coated with market stall at Chatuchak Market in beautiful, romantic restaurant,” camembert cheese and vanilla 2001 while Som was finding her feet she says. While it was chef Som’s ice cream (B390). It is midground only to become one of Bangkok’s first time cooking comfort food, the between soft cinnamon kind and most trusted and innovative chefs. restaurant and its menu are worth bagel as it’s kind of doughy, but The next part she notes far more than a social media snap. pairs nicely with the ice cream. The sadly, “We’ve never been taken The new summer menu is not only savouriness from camembert and seriously.” Over time, customers evident of their ability, but it also crisp flavour of the wine is a pairing became infatuated with the blows that theory out of the water. we really enjoy. by Joseph Lam aesthetic and the Instagrammable It all begins with Oyster Kiss, a cotton candy floss. The interior cold take on the street food hoy tod resembles a renovated old wool which sees a vinaigrette-marinated Karmakamet Diner 30/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Soi Methi Niwet house and a Chinese incense store. oyster topped with sprouts, duck Tel: 02 262 0700 A large timber bar with incense egg pancake and garlic chili (B290). Open daily:10am-11:30pm draws serves French classics like kir Paired with an Austrian sparkling www.karmakametdiner.com royal while each table is lined with called Diebolt Vallois Prestige, it is

bangkok101.com

M AY/J U N 2019 | 53

FOOD & DRINK | review

Market Café

A modern yet authentic Thai restaurant in the heart of Bangkok

taying true to authentic Thai flavours, Market Café Thai Restaurant is located conveniently on the 4th Floor of Hyatt Regency Hotel on Sukhumvit 13 Road easily accessible via Nana BTS Skytrain station. This all-day dining spot opens for the breakfast buffet while also offering delicious a-la-carte options to guests throughout the day. Through a meticulous screening process, the Market Café has accumulated speciality chefs from all regions, making sure to offer the best and most authentic Thai dishes without dumbing down the traditional tastes as envisioned by Frederik Farina, Executive Chef and Director of Food & Beverage. The menu is a combination of various best-loved Thai favourites with a mixture of a few unique dishes the chefs’ team came up with. I’ll do my best to feature some I believed everyone must try. Started with the appetisers

5 4 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

which are Kor Moo Tod Nga (B190), deep-fried sesame pork neck that is crispy on the outside and supple on the inside served with spicy sauce, and Peek Gai Tod Jaew (B180), caramelised chicken wings fried then rolled in spicy jaew sauce. We started the main dishes with the kitchen’s own creative recipe, Sen Yai Phad Kapi Goong (B170) which is an unusual but pleasant blend of stir-fried flat noodle served with prawns in shrimp paste and chopped long beans. The shrimp paste combination made the dish very aromatic but not overpowering making it very unique, memorable and delicious. Next came Goong Mae Nam Tod Kratiem (B550) or stir-fried giant river prawns served with freshly crushed garlic. Followed by Tom Som Pla Kraphong (B250), a soupy dish made of sour sea bass cooked with tamarind, ginger, spring onions, and shrimp paste

but not to worry, the shrimp paste was more like an enhancer, adding additional aroma and taste to an already delicious combination. Last but not least and a must-try dish, Gang Pu Bai Cha Plu (B380), a large bowl of rich yellow curry with fresh crab meat and betel leaves served with a piece of betel leaf omelette. There are many classic desserts to choose from such as Khao Neaw Ma Muang or mango sticky rice which is available all year round but I’d like to present the Khao Niew Fak Thong SangKa-Ya (B150), steamed pumpkin egg custard served with sticky rice with coconut milk on top. by Morgan Thanarojpradit

Market Café

Hyatt Regency Hotel 4F 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Open: Daily, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 098 1234 www.hyattregencybangkoksukhumvit.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Favola

A more casual restaurant with the taste of rural Italy food come from mistakes,” Fabio says before presenting the next dish, burrata (B490). It is a form of creamy mozzarella with a story beginning one evening when snow fell unexpectedly and an Italian farmer couldn’t deliver cream to customers so he put it in mozzarella. Favola uses fewer ingredients but several kinds of texture. This can be seen in the next dish a spinach and ricotta stuffed ravioli served on a bed of parmesan (B490). In total, there are three main ingredients, served both in the ravioli and outside, in a simple yet inviting manner. Vegetarian ravioli is an important dish for Favola as Italians often choose to eat meat-free the night before religious holidays. For the main dish we enjoyed char grilled lamb with asparagus, spelt and sunchoke (B490), slightly rich but tender. Similarly to ravioli, lamb is the usual choice for avola brings more than but that’s not the case in Thailand. Italians on religious holidays. Tuscan affair. It brings Outside you’ll also find several All in all, there’s a real focus of authentic ingredients, food tables overlooking a night golf simple is best which can be seen and chefs, says head chef Fabio course which runs until 11pm. throughout the menu to “sauce Genghini with a smile. As Tuscan food originates from is used to compliment”. Simple In line with the friendly rural Italy and was the food of the techniques and quality ingredients approach, you’ll often see Fabio working class, Favola prefers to make a cosy and casual dining in cheese and wine room. When keep things casual. Lower prices experience, one not to be missed. he’s not giving background to more ensure more customers helping to Around 30 kilometres or a than 20 Italian cheeses and how regularly rotate stock making for a 40-minute drive from central they’re made, he’s splitting his time better dining experience. Bangkok, the complex makes for between the floor and the kitchen– Grapes play a large part in a day trip with golf courses, a typical Italian hospitality, he says. Tuscan diet. We were served massage spa, kids and a taste of Stepping past the wine room is a scallop salad with marinated Tuscany at Favola. by Joseph Lam a small but warm restaurant which grapes and orange (B590) to dedicates more than its menu to begin. Scallops from Hokkaido Favola central Italian cuisine. To the back are often sweet and buttery. For Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, 789 Moo there’s an open-air cold kitchen flavour, Khao Yai rocket is used, 14, Bangna-Trad Rd, Samut Prakan and a stunning woodfire pizza and chef Fabio refers to it as the Tel: 02 118 7722 oven ignited by Italian wood chips. best rocket in Asia, as the dry Fabio notes that in Italy, pizza climate produces a spicier version. Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm www.facebook.com/favolasuvarnabhumi restaurants are usually separate, “Many of the discoveries in

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M AY/J U N 2019 | 55

FOOD & DRINK | review

Prime

Sunset, steak, and wine by the river

he sizzling sound of meat grilling and the mingling smell of beef immediately make my mouth water as I walk into Prime. The meal begins with classic caesar (B550) assembled live. Seasonings, toppings, and emulsifiers are presented on a cart alongside a teak mixing bowl. The staff scrapes, creams and swirls egg yolk, mustard, olive oil, and more all over the receptacle surface until the liquid thickens – only teak wood can fully brace that. Eight cos lettuce leaves are thoroughly tossed and covered by the rich condiment, precisely stacked, and sprinkled with crispy bacon bits, slightly baked croutons, and parmesan. The freshly baked daily whole wheat bread with carrot and focaccia and red bell pepper is accompanied by French butter churned in-house. The browned and crusty on the outside, delicate and moist on the inside bread is binge-worthy when partnered with two types of butter: herbed garlic and standard. The rotatable seafood platter (B3,800) contains luscious vanilla clams and quite sappy Dutch mussels, the nice, briny fine de claire oysters and rather chewy gillardeau from France, the firm Canadian lobster, tantalising Alaskan king crab legs, and the undeniably tender tiger prawns; with a variety of relish plus four levels of Tabasco. Paired with 2017 Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough (B2,300/ bottle), the slightly dry semi-sweet fruit salad in a glass lets the shellfish shine. The restaurant carries 180 labels on its wine list,

5 6 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

categorised by type, and has a corkage fee of B1,000 per bottle. I’m not one to season meat profusely, but its jus, three styles of mustard, and three kinds of Himalayan rock salt: pink, charcoal, and smoked garlic give different gustation to every bite. Especially when the distinctly rough salt flakes and crystals are rained down, the texture becomes concentrated and provides a crunchy addition. Chunky potato wedges, charred vegetables and whole garlic on the side, the grade 5-6 600g marbled Australian Wagyu Prime Ribs (B3,760) is precisely cooked to medium with gorgeous grill marks – not over caramelised – and the good juice locked inside pink core (dry aged 35-45 days). Given some time,

the mild spice opening of 2016 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (B680/glass) goes hand in hand with the steak. To conclude, a decadent, not overbearingly sweet chocolate soufflé (B540) is poured and plunged with warm chocolate sauce, trickling down to the pistachio bits. It deserves a scoop of vanilla ice cream and marinated berries with light melon cream and port reduction (B450). by Fha Kanch

Prime restaurant

Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoen Nakhon Rd Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 6pm-10pm www3.hilton.com bangkok101.com

James Suckling

Launched in 2012 in Asia by the worldwide famous wine critic James Suckling, Great Wines of Italy returned to Bangkok for its 7th annual edition last December at Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel Bangkok. It was a successful event and a stimulus for the demand and rising interest in quality Italian wines in Thailand. The Asian wine traders and consumers, after tasting “vino italiano" along the years, now understand Italy as a unique country with hundreds of unique varieties of wines.

“ THAILAND IS ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING PREMIUM WINE MARKETS IN ASIA AND I WANT TO BE A PART OF IT ” Great Wines of Italy Bangkok gathered last year at Grand Hyatt around 1,000 wine lovers had the opportunity to taste such a number of great wines altogether and a chance to meet the wine makers and owners of the wineries in person. Great Wines of Italy Asia wrapped up with "brindisi finale” in the land of Smiles at The Nai Harn Resort in Phuket with a smaller wine selection. Among the 96 great wine producers selected by James Suckling during the last edition awarded with 100 points, 18 are imported and distributed in exclusivity in Thailand by GFour: Bellavista, Cantina Terlano, Casanova di Neri, Conti Zecca, Duemani, Felsina, Follador, Feudo Maccari, Fontodi, La Carraia, Orma, Ottosoldi, Pietradolce, Pitars, Tedeschi, Tenuta Sette Ponti, Valle Reale, Villa Sparina, and Zenato. The success of Great Wines of Italy Asia is made possible by the experience of James Suckling and his team including his young son Jack; the enthusiasm of the Bangkokian wine lovers; the support of the hundreds of wine producers who participate every year and more importantly make great wines; and the logistic support of GFour’s precious partner of Great Wines of Italy since most of the wines were transported directly from Italy to Thailand. We invite all wine lovers passionate about Italian wines to the next edition of Great Wines of Italy by James Suckling on December 2019 at Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok. And to: GFour grand wine tasting on Wednesday 5 June at Bangkok Marriot Marquis Queens Park Hotel Fire&Grill Special dinners on Wednesday 5 June and Thursday 6 June at Intercontinental hotel Bangkok paired with GFour wines

FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

Angus Steak at Twenty Seven Bites Brasserie

Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok | 489 Sukhumvit Rd Tel: 02 302 3333 | www.facebook.com/radissonbluplazabangkok From Angus ribeye to tenderloin and striploin, the dining room selects some of the best cuts served with eight types of steak sauces. Seafood on ice is also available alongside a carving station and hot international taste, including Thai and western appetisers. The international buffet opens every Monday to Saturday at B1,290++ per person, for dinner 6pm-10:30pm.

Favourites of Campania at Terrazza

Pathumwan Princess Hotel | 8F, 444 Phayathai Rd Tel: 02 216 370 ext. 20818 | www.pprincess.com Open daily 6:30am-10:30pm during May and June, Terrazza Ristorante & Pizzeria offers two specialties from Campania region in the Southwestern of Italy famous for its coastline and the city of Naples with the iconic grey cone of Mt. Vesuvius. Experience the Crostone alla Crema di Formaggio con Salsiccia e Friarielli e Pomodori Secchi (grilled Bruschetta with cream cheese, sausage and dried tomatoes) as a simple yet delicious finger food of savoury Campanian ingredients for B320 net per person.

Afternoon Delights at Metro On Wireless

Hotel Indigo Bangkok | 81 Witthayu Rd Tel: 02 207 4999 | www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok Sip tea for two and overlook the greenery along Wireless Road. The set begins with a tamarind sorbet to cleanse the palate followed by a selection of scones with homemade clotted cream, blueberry jam, and lemon curd, accompanied by traditional British teas. There are also options of Thai specialties set and modern Thai set along with some Thai fusion delights. The traditional menu is B580++ for two, and the modern Thai set is B680++ for two, including free-flow tea and coffee.

Tuscanian Menu Inspired by Leonardo da Vinci at Medinii The Continent Hotel Bangkok | 35F, 413 Sukhumvit, Klongtoey Nua Tel: 02 686 7056 | www.thecontinentdining.com/medinii Leonardo da Vinci was born in Vinci, now Tuscany in Italy. Medinii turns this into a Tuscanian tasting menu paired with Davinci Wines such as Pinot Grigio, Monna Lisa Vino Bianco dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Italia or Leonardo Chianti. The highlight of the four-course menu is the grilled T-bone steak (Bistecca alla Fiorentina). Daily dinner hours: sundowner 5:30pm-8pm, twilighter 8:15pm-10:45pm.

From the Silk Road to Smokehouse Flavours

The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok | 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 | www.westingrandesukhumvit.com Weekday Dinner Buffet from Sunday to Thursday 6pm-10:30pm offers seasonal tastes with delectably differentiated specials. Monday and Tuesday feature Chinese BBQ. Wednesday and Thursday highlights include applewood smoked beef brisket, lamb rack and smothered BBQ pork ribs. And Sunday highlights include premium and popular selections flying off the buffet counters (B1,390++ per person including free-flow soft drinks). 5 8 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Tanaporn Markawat

Old-school Thai cuisine that withstands the test of time

collection of antique Thai kitchenware and pottery, sepia photographs of neighbourhoods, and furnishings spreads across the main hallway of the restaurant like a tiny museum. Each piece has a history, as Chef Tanaporn (Kan) Markawat narrates, tracing back to the origins of his parents and grandparents from Trang and Ratchaburi provinces. Treating his grandmother’s old four-legged wooden stove with love and respect, he honours the way that the previous generations cooked and ate. What makes The Local “local” is deeply rooted in more than the 6 0 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

use of local ingredients. It is the old recipes passed down to form the restaurant’s current identity: the embedded cultural aspects that represent Thainess, the simplicity of traditional Thai way of life, the subtle art of Thai cooking, and the act of learning through tasting. A brief background of each dish can be read in the menu upon ordering. Before The Local, Oamthong restaurant was born in Phahonyothin Soi 11. Chef Kan recalls his mother’s tuk tuk trips to the market in the morning for grocery shopping. The least he could do back then was carry

ice buckets back and forth and witness the dedicated searches for rare components such as a particular type of coconut shells and tamarind leaves. This routine formed a pursuit of mastering everything hands-on including experimenting with edible and inedible vegetation. Chef Kan has grown up and accustomed to Thai cookery, furthering his knowledge and skill set by learning from some of the Thai cooking masters Khun Srisamorn Kongpun as well as local professionals from southern Thai villages. He also studied restaurant management at French bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

Culinary Institute (FCI) in New York before returning to Bangkok to superintend The Local by Oamthong Thai Cuisine. However, he prefers implementing regional supplies to imported foreign goods. He thinks that many uncommon plants with medicinal benefits deserve to be recognised and introduced to diners, for instance, the aromatic Kayang leaf can help ease the stomach, skin, fever, and bloating. Chef Kan organically matches it with savoury fish broth for a full, round taste, and balance out the fishy odour. Education may lead to a bigger picture, but food is memory. His personal experience in hand picking side road plants and flowers plays a part in developing menus and recipes served at his restaurant. “We cook with local foodstuffs as a real and ongoing formality, not as a trend.” Chef Kan continues, “Each person’s definition of authenticity varies, so we create our family’s own version based on the gurus’ classic recipes.” The Local aims to keep unpretentious homestyle dishes the way they were originally bangkok101.com

represented. Chef Kan initially noticed the scarcity of decent kao gang (savoury sides served on top of rice) in Sukhumvit area, therefore, he fostered a place where urbanites can enjoy that. When the line between food evidence and wisdom is blurred, the kitchen team here revives oldfashioned cooking methods relying on today’s practicality. Behind the kitchen doors, the art of Thai cookery is led by small details that matter. Traditional granite mortars are still utilised to make chili paste although blenders are known to be a more realistic method when serving a larger group of clients during peak hours. The first recommended dish is Gaeng Run Chuan Pork, an ancient recipe curry from King Rama V period (B240). Khun Kan has been practicing and improving The Local’s own recipe for over eight years. He explains, the flavour profile needs to be a blend of piquant, sweet, and sharp, hence spicy, in order to complete the charm of Gaeng Run Chuan. Each piece of aromatic garnish, herb, and spice is precisely and uniformly cut in proportions that give just enough mouthfeel, the

pork is tenderly marinated, and the liquid consistency does not split even in room temperature after resting on the table for a while. Overall when eaten alongside warm rice, the heat soothes with a gripping aftertaste. Ox Tongue Stewed Overnight in Homemade Massaman Curry, a true delight and special recipe from King Rama II era (B450) follows. Needless to say that it was diligently stewed for many hours, it definitely tastes that way. The meat is juicy and the curry texture also lasts in the original condition as time passes, without excessive oil or fat. Last but not least, Mom’s Recipe Spicy Southern Fried Fish presents whole sea bass stir-fried until crispy then mixed and rolled in a hot wok with homemade Southern yellow curry paste and Thai herbs or kua kling (B580). The crispiness of every fish cube is thoroughly coated with hot umami character, accompanied by Thai stink beans that are actually more ripe and succulent than pungent and chewy. interview by Fha Kanch www.thelocalthaicuisine.com M AY/J U N 2019 | 61

FOOD & DRINK | feature

Women in Gastronomy Thailand’s leading female chefs on their struggles, inspirations and rewards By Joseph Lam

ollowing the Women in Wine tour of GranMonte Vineyard and Winery, Women in Mixology cocktail session with Suwincha (Chacha) Singsuwan, and welcome dinner at Saffron, Women In Gastronomy kicked off early Friday morning with welcome notes from Banyan Tree Bangkok General Manager Nopparat Aumpa, the Embassy of Italy with Ambassador Lorenzo Galanti who announced Italy is at the frontline of advocacy for equal rights and “a catalyst for change in the culinary industry” and Thailand’s female rights activist, actress and supermodel Cindy Bishop. A panel discussion on the challenges female chefs face was led by Italian Michelin starred chef Cristina Bowerman, accompanied by female Thai chefs Nooror Somany Steppe of Blue Elephant, Pichaya Pam Uthantharm of The Table by Chef Pam, Renu Homsombat of Saffron, Rungthiwa Fae Chummongkon of Front Room, Naree Boonyakiat of Yelo Cafe, and Jutamas Som Theantae of Karmakamet Diner. You could cancel out any misguided arguments often directed at women’s right days and events. This event is not about putting women against men at all. This event aims to empower women who

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inspire our future generations as well as opening the floor for industry practices. From questions of raising a family and being a stay-at-home mom to physical strength, female chefs face a different challenge in the kitchen. Cindy pointed out, “It’s a male-dominated industry in a society that tells us women belong in the kitchen.” It’s worth noting that men aren’t often interrogated with concerns of having to put work on hold to raise a family. Given the rise of stay-at-home dads, career-driven women and the fact that being a chef is male-dominated is an oddity in itself. Cristina noted, “For a long time men have associated labour with profession, but that’s not the case anymore.” As cooking techniques, appliances and devices evolve, kitchens now require more skill, knowledge and mentally strong chefs. The female chefs and winemakers do not only affirm this, but they also flaunt it with their successes. On struggles specific to female chefs, conservative thoughts of women, questions of family and inappropriate treatment were raised. For Naree, dealing with inappropriate looks or actions isn’t an issue as she is in charge. Her concerns remain, however, for women new to the industry bangkok101.com

feature | FOOD & DRINK

and those not in a position of power. For Pam, one of her early setbacks was conservative thinking. Pam’s grandad said no to her being a chef, but her parents, whom she notes are quite progressive, supported her decision. Her parents’ blessing and her desire to show her grandparents she could be a successful chef helped direct and drive her passion. Her advice: “If you think that you’re successful, you’ll stop learning and no longer progress.” Then, each chef shared a few words on the people who inspire them and keep them

Later that afternoon a professional wine tasting was held by four notable female wine representatives: Marina Cvetic from Masciarelli, Patricia Toth from Planeta, Vera Malisani from Bellavista and Erika Ribaldi from Frescobaldi. Topics like climate change and how it affects the wine production were discussed: Mrs Patricia and Mrs Marina largely talked about their experience with unstable weather conditions; they all showed the commitment of their wineries on using sustainable technologies. Mrs Erika discussed how

motivated while going through tough times in the kitchen. For Cristina, Pam, Fae and Naree their idols were their mothers. For Renu it is both her mother and grandmother, but for Som, her mother doesn’t cook but she finds content in building a team. Afterwards, excluding Cristina and Tam who would be cooking side by side in a four-hands gala dinner later, the chefs went on to present their signature dishes in an exclusive street food lunch. The menu ranged from simply delicious Thai classics from Banyan Tree, Blue Elephant, and Yelo Cafe to modernised creations from The Table by Chef Pam, 80/20, Front Room, Karmakamet, Err, and a fusion number from Little Beast.

they all know the characteristics and appreciate each other’s wines, with great spirit of cooperation and no bad competition. Mrs Vera shared her first approach to wine: while she was in kindergarten, she wanted to drink Coke, but her grandfather gave her a glass of homemade wine instead (mixed with water, of course!). They all agreed that Italian wines are made to be shared and they represent a way to establish connections and grow relationships, or that a glass of wine simply helps to relax after a busy day. It can also be paired with Thai and Asian food in general: in fact, their wines were paired with the tasting menu from two rounds of Italian-Thai cuisine four-hands dinner that evening and on March 9.

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Food & Drink

Photo Feature

WOMEN IN GASTRONOMY

ON INTERNATIONAL

WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DAY 2019 RECAP On March 8 and 9, Gastronauts Asia presented the 2nd edition of the global food forum Women in Gastronomy (WIG) 2019 at Banyan Tree Bangkok. The event showcased an array of acclaimed female food personalities from Thailand and beyond. The full-day symposium featured presentations and panel discussions as well as a special multi-chef Bangkok Street Food Lunch with unique dishes from the city's top female chefs and leading restaurants. This year's programme also included Women in Mixology and Women in Wine to bring together some of Italy's most prestigious wine producers for tastings and more. The 150th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Italy and Thailand led up to the focus on Italy and one of the most celebrated Italian chefs, Cristina Bowerman who cooked alongside Chudaree Tam Debhakam in an exclusive four hands dinner.

Inside the GranMonte wine laboratory

Day trip to GranMonte Vineyard and Winery in Asoke Valley, Khao Yai with winemakers and Michelin-Star Chef from Italy, members of the food media, and Gastronauts Asia team

Panoramic view at dusk from Vertigo rooftop bar on 61st floor, Banyan Tree Bangkok

Suwincha Chacha Singsuwan from LibĂŠration & Rabbit Hole Bangkok for Women in Mixology

Women in Gastronomy 2019 Conference and Panel discussion

Chef Cristina Bowerman, from Michelin-starred restaurant Glass Hostaria in Rome

Bangkok street food lunch, featuring some of the best restaurants in Bangkok and exclusive drinks. From left to right: John Neutze, Director of Sales and Marketing of Banyan Tree Bangkok, His Excellency Lorenzo Galanti, Ambassador of Italy to Thailand, Nopparat Aumpa, General Manager of Banyan Tree Bangkok and Assistant to the Vice President of Banyan Tree Group International, and Laura Majetti, Director of F&B Administration and Promotions of Banyan Tree Bangkok

The atmosphere at the event

Pork Rib-Pickled Strawberries and Quinoa from Front Room at Waldorf Astoria, by Chef Rungthiwa Fae Chummongkhon

Mixed Rice Salad with grilled Shrimp paste and condiment in Lotus Leaf from Yelo House booth, by Chef Naree Boonyakiat

Duck and Mushroom Dumpling with Orange Butter Soy Sauce from Little Beast booth, by Chef Rangsima Nan Bunyasaranand

Duck Egg Custard, Roasted Pumpkin, Compressed Pumpkin, Pumpkin Kombucha, Ganache, Praline from 80/20, by Chef Saki Hoshino

Pork Cheek Red Curry with Mantou from The Table by Chef Pam booth, by Chef Pichaya Pam Utharntharm

Thai Vermicelli Rice Noodle, Pork, Tofu in Coconut sauce, Bean sprout, Chive, crispy Prawn and Egg serving in Banana leaf cups from Apasara Dining by Banyan Tree, by Chef Porntip Eumanan

Grilled Chicken Green Curry, Thai Jasmine Kaffir Lime infused from Saffron at Banyan Tree, by Chef Renu Homsombat

Nam Prik Koong from Blue Elephant booth by Chef Nooror Somany Steppe

Hoythawd from Karmakamet Diner/Karmakamet Conveyance, by Chef Jutamas Som Theantae

Pink Sticky Rice Dumpling with Caramel Coconut and Prawn from Err, by Chef Pantong Aoi Pratumpak

Women In Wine, a special Italian Wine Tasting session with female representatives from Masciarelli winery from Abruzzo, Planeta winery from Sicily, Bellavista winery from Lombardy, and Frescobaldi winery from Tuscany

Kyoko Nakayama and Charmaine Mok, international media journalists

WIG 2019 four hands Gala Dinner by Chef Cristina Bowerman and Chef Chudaree (Tam) Debhakam, featuring local ingredients paired with Italian wine from the sponsors

Chef Cristina from Michelin-starred Glass Hostaria restaurant in Rome and Top Chef Thailand winner and Pop Up Project owner Chef Tam

Squid Tagliatelle with Mushroom Concentrated Broth Mushrooms and Tamarind (Cristina Bowerman)

Chiang Mai Tomato â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Nam Prikâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Tart, Fermented Fish, Garlic Cream, Green Tomatoes, Seablite (Chudaree Debhakam)

Orzotto Cacio, Pecorino Cheese, Pepper Fermented Shrimp, Prawns and Preserved Lemon (Cristina Bowerman)

Southern Curry Agnolotti, Crab, Pineapple Reduction, Crispy Basil, (Chudaree Debhakam)

Barracuda & Squid-Chicken Cappuccino, Mustard Leaves (Cristina Bowerman)

Khao Mao Doi Rice, Clam Sauce, Charred Cabbage Sprouts (Chudaree Debhakam)

Nipa Palm Sugar Ice Cream, Coconut, Tamarind (Cristina Bowerman & Chudaree Debhakam)

FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm

China Table

A stylish Chinese restaurant with a tempting choice of signature dishes and one of the best dim sum lunch offers in Bangkok. 3F, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 489 Sukhumvit 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 Open daily: lunch 11:30am-2:30pm (Mon-Fri), 11:30am-3:30pm (Sat-Sun), dinner 6pm-10:30pm. www.facebook.com/ RadissonBluPlazaBangkok

but for its dim sum, set lunches, and à la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok. 22F, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Tel: 02 632 9000 Open daily: 6pm-10pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun, 11am-2:30pm www.crowneplazabkk.com

FRENCH La Vie

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at this elegant restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination. 11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Lunch, Mon-Sat, noon-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

Pagoda Chinese Restaurant

This upscale venue serves traditional Cantonese cuisine in a spacious and contemporary setting. The menu focuses on healthy dishes, while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. If you’re visiting, then well worth a visit. 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.marriott.com

Xin Tian Di

The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, 7 8 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

Michelin-starred restaurant living up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com

GERMAN Sühring

German gastronomy comes alive using modern techniques and high-quality ingredients, while still following traditional flavour profiles. The kitchen of this 2 Michelinstarred restaurant is helmed by a pair of identical twin chefs (Thomas and Mathias), and the results are like nothing you’ll see or taste anywhere else. 10 Yen Akat Soi 3 Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.restaurantsuhring.com

INDIAN Indus

An ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine, featuring a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect, while dialling down the stodge and oiliness; a riff on Indian-Chinese—or Himalayan— combinations. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 258 4900 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight www.indusbangkok.com

INTERNATIONAL

Le Boeuf

The concept here is simple: highquality steak, liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core. GF, Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair, 60 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 672 12 30 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com

CHAR Restaurant

A stunning dining space, offering modern grill cuisine with remarkable flavours. A simply elegant venue, CHAR Private lets you dine in utmost privacy and style. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81 Wireless Rd. bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Eat Me

Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town. Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

Elements

This Michelin-starred restaurant expertly fuses Japanese and French culinary aesthetics, flavours, and precision, in a retro-futuristic space that feels like a home study but has the theatricality of a playhouse. 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 687 9000 www.okurabangkok.com

Ocken

Offering dishes inspired by memories and experiences of travels and cultures from near and afar to be shared by people who love to eat, Ocken explores creative techniques, bold flavour combinations, and cooking with no boundaries. The cuisine is known for its free-spirited nature which changes periodically according to what the team feels like eating. 1F Bhiraj Tower at Sathon, South Sathon Rd Open: Brunch, Sat-Sun 10:30am2:30pm; Dinner, Tue-Sun 6pm-12am Tel: 082 091 6174 www.ockenbkk.com bangkok101.com

Latest Recipe

A new upscale brunch offering from the signature restaurant in the Le Méridien offers a delicious and indulgent approach to wining and dining. The Medittarean-inpsired “La Docle Vita” Lifestyle Buffet offers an eclectic mix of cuisines across various stations, with fresh seafood, made-to-order pasta, and free-flow wine and champagne. 1F, Le Méridien Bangkok 40/5, Surawong Rd. Open daily: Mon-Sat, 12pm-2:30pm, 6:30pm-9:30pm, Sun, 12pm-4pm Tel: 02 232 8888 www.latestrecipebangkok.com

up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill kitchen at this stunning restaurant space dishes up succulent steaks and other meaty morsels. It’s also home to a super cool looking whisky room. 34-36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Nimitr

“Oriental Cuisine” inspired by a responsible gourmand chef on situated on the 27th floor of the luxurious 137 Pillars Suites & Residences, this beautiful restaurant has an outstanding setting and prepares wonderfully fresh plates with a slight Oriental leaning. Choose from the likes of Chilli Crab, Szechuan Rock Lobster, Beef Massaman, Scallops and Abalone Sashimi, Teriyaki Pork Belly and a plethora of traditional favourites to tempt every palate for every occasion. 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 Open daily 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 079 7000 www.137pillarsbangkok.com/en/dining/ nimitr

Park Society

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this highaltitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus. 29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 624 0000 www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

With a design concept that conjures

Tables Grill

Showcasing French cuisine and helmed by Michelin-experienced Chef Hans Zahner, Tables Grill sets the perfect experience of fresh ingredients and flavourful elegance. Tables Grill welcomes guests to try an à la carte menu and 5 or 7-course degustation menu. Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 494 Rajdamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 6250 Open: Dinner, Mon-Sun 6pm-10pm; Sunday Brunch: 11am-3pm www.tablesgrill.com

Up & Above

This elegant 24th floor restaurant has fine dining down, but it also boasts a brunch to rival all others—delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: noon-10:30pm www.okurabangkok.com

Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant

Neither an open-air rooftop bar nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two. M AY/J U N 2019 | 79

FOOD & DRINK | listings 60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

Il Bolognese Trattoria & Pizzeria

6pm-10:30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com

Ristorante Il Bolognese brings to Bangko the soulful cuisine and SPANISH convivial spirit of the city of Bologna. 139/3 Sathon Soi 7 Tel: 02 286 8805 Upstairs at Mikkeller Uno Mas Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, The second-floor, six table With its expansive menu of 5:30pm-11pm restaurant is simple but effective authentic Spanish specialties, www.ilbolognesebangkok.com with an open kitchen and Michelincoupled with spectacular city views, star food sure to wow guests. Expect this chic, sky-high tapas bar and to be spoiled with a rousing and restaurant reaches new “heights” in Medinii wide-ranging tasting menu, expertly The Italian inspired restaurant is several respects. paired with international craft beers. somewhat tucked away high up 54F, Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. at Asoke intersection. A hidden Tel: 091 713 9034 Open daily: 4pm-1am standout fine dining concept Open: Wed-Sat, 6pm-10pm Tel: 02 100 6255 serving dishes with finesse and www.upstairs-restaurant.com finely balanced flavour. Free flow of www.unomasbangkok.com authentic Pasta & Pizza include soft STEAK & BURGER drink. Easily accessed by Asoke BTS ITALIAN and Sukhumvit MRT. 35F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit, Klongtoey Nua Attico Tel: 02 686 7000 Award winning Attico Restaurant Open daily: Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30amserves 100% authentic Italian 2:30pm cuisine, Whilst sharing the skyline Dinner: Everyday 6pm-midnight views from the terrace areas. www.thecontinentdining.com/medinii 28F, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 La Bottega di Luca The Steakhouse Co. Open daily: 17:00-23:00 hrs. This elegant Italian eatery, overseen Facebook: Radissonbluplazabangkok by the ever charming Luca Appino, The Steakhouse Co. serves over 15 different kinds A new city steak restaurant, located of pasta and an array of Italian on the vibrant Patpong Soi 2, serves specialties you won’t find on many up delectable cuts from Australia, other menus in Bangkok. the US, and Argentina. At the stove 2F, Terrace 49 Building is Chef Moo, who has extensive Sukhumvit Soi 49 experience across many city hotels, Tel: 02 204 1731 and takes great pride in the ageing, Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm, marbling, and hanging two of the Mon, 5pm-11pm carefully selected beef produce. A www.labottega.name/restaurant well-stocked bar with an impressive Favola wine list and local craft beers, ensures guests find the perfect Favola JAPANESE tipple to accompany their bovine. Specialising in the robust and The Steakhouse Co., rustic flavours of Italy, Favola 9/8 Patpong 2 Rd. is the favoured destination for Kisso Open daily: 5pm-3am cosy, romantic dinners. A homey, Combining a modern mastery of Tel: 06 109 Steak (78325) provincial dining room is decorated time-honoured customs in a stylish www.thesteakhouseco.com in vivid green and rich brown wood and convivial setting, this is one with ambient backlighting. of the top places for outstanding Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, 789 Moo Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. THAI 14, Bangna-Trad Rd, Samut Prakan 8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Tel: 02 118 7722 Bangkok, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 207 8000 Bangkok Heightz www.facebook.com/favolasuvarnabhumi Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, A rooftop sky bar with an authentic 8 0 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK Thai concept. This restaurant serves delicious food with a focus on local seafood and Thai cocktails. Meanwhile, views of Bangkok’s downtown cityscape can be enjoyed from the restaurant’s open air-deck. 39F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit, Klongtoey Nua Tel: 02 686 7000 Open daily untill midnight www.thecontinentdining.com/th/ bangkok-heightz.php

6:30pm-10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Bo.lan

Authentic, but daring, this is one of the top Thai restaurants in all of Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this Michelin-starred restaurant remains so popular year after year. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 Tel: 02 260 2962 Open: Tue-Sun, 11:30am-10:30pm www.bolan.co.th

seasonal Thai ingredients are the focus here in progressive Frenchinfluenced dishes that are also rooted in tradition. Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn is one of the rising stars of the Bangkok dining scene, earning Le Du a Michelin star. 399/3 Silom Soi 7 Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 092 919 9969 www.ledubkk.com

Canvas

Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant and cooking school sits in a gorgeous Thai historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm,

Serving up artistic Michelinrated masterpieces on a plate, the visionary kitchen team here uses mostly local produce and ingredients, conjuring up unique concoctions that give traditional Thai dishes a definite twist. Try one of the chef’s incredible tasting menus. 113/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 099 614 1158 Open: Tue-Thu, Sun, 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sat, 6pm-12:30am www.canvasbangkok.com

Le Du

It might sound French but the name Le Du actually derives from the Thai word for ‘season,’ and

Market Café

Inspired by Ayutthaya era’s traditional markets is the all-new Market Café. With a menu that stays true to Thai flavours, the restaurant offers freshly prepared dishes with bold spices and vibrant flavours crafted by chefs who are well-versed in local cuisine. 4F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 Open daily: 6am-10:30pm www.facebook.com/pg/MarketCafeBKK

MIXED CLAMS nam sausage + coriander lime broth LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com bangkok101.com

M AY/J U N 2019 | 81

FOOD & DRINK | listings

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest, freshest ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Saffron

Award-winning contemporary Thai cuisine. Spoil yourself in the best of Thai signature dishes, which include seared Tasmanian salmon with crispy pork crackling and a spicy citrus dressing, banana blossom salad with perfectly grilled and marinated prawns served with a coconut dressing and fried banana flowers. 52F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 5pm-1am Tel: 02 679 1200 www.banyantree.com/bangkok

Sala Rim Naam

A stunning traditional pavilion located across the river from Oriental Mandarin where you will dine and experience Thai culture with all your senses. Classical Thai dance shows starts every night at 7.30pm. Dress code is required: elegant attire and proper footwear for ladies, long trousers and shirts with closed-in shoes for gentlemen. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: 5pm-midnight www.mandarinoriental.com

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, diners at this elegant, Michelinstarred eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an incredible culinary adventure down a menu-less-travelled. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 8 2 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

991/9 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 12pm-3pm,6pm-midnight Tel: 02 162 9000 www.kempinski.com/bangkok

CAFÉ

1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex Building, 57 Wireless Rd., Tel: 02 108 2200 www.deandeluca.com/thailand

Kay’s Boutique Breakfast

Kay’s is dedicated to making your breakfast, the most important meal, full of joy and excitement. Brunch & Baked Serving both gourmet breakfast A small classic bakery and cafe in Old Town Bangkok serving breakfast buffet line and À La Cart with and brunch. Highlights here are their a reasonable price, the food is cooked fresh from the griddle freshly baked pastries and cakes, which are made of generous, quality right in front of you. Scrumptious ingredient–and not overwhelmingly morning treats are sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. Morning drinks sweet. are designed to be a great booster 120 Mahannop Rd. for the rest of your day. Open: Tue-Sun 8am-5pm 6F, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 063 094 4494 Tel: 02 245 1953 facebook.com/brunchandbaked Open daily: 10am-10pm 116/55-57 Soi Rang Nam Open daily: 6:30am-4pm except Tuesdays 6:30-12pm www.kaysbangkok.com, www.kaysboutiques.com

VEGETARIAN The Chocolate Boutique

The Chocolate Boutique With a clear and strong focus on natural quality ingredients and old world craftsmanship, this chocolate café, cake, and sweet shop exudes sense of playful experimentation from the moment you begin browsing the menu. GF, Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 8am-11pm www.shangri-la.com/bangkok

Dean & Deluca

This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients. GF, MahaNakhon Cube, Tel: 02 023 1616 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, Tel: 02 261 0464

Broccoli Revolution

This vegan-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright vegetarian bites which could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Rd. (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 Facebook: Broccoli Revolution

Simple Natural Kitchen

A quaint restaurant featuring a rich vegan menu with local and organic delicacies. With Italian inspiration, the restaurant has a rustic décor and is situated in a small alley away from the bustle of the city. The rich blend of organic spices and ingredients and the welcoming staff attract many vegan lovers looking for a quick brunch. 31 Sukhumvit Garden Tel: 02 662 2510 Open daily: 9am-6pm www.simplenaturalkitchen.com bangkok101.com

CUISINE ART

Bai Lhiang Pad Khai Ghub Ghoong Bai Lhiang Pad Khai Ghub Ghoong is melinjo leaves wok-tossed with eggs and prawns. Indigenous in Malaysian peninsula and Indonesia, it is one of Ruen Urai’s “Southern Comfort” menus. These special offerings are inspired by multi-cultural southern Thai cuisine. Experience ﬁne Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Open from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

Giant Pandan and Mad Mango at Spectrum Rooftop Bar at Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit

NIGHTLIFE signature crafted cocktails for sunset Jubilee of Rooftop Bars is happening at the freshly opened Spectrum Lounge & Bar at Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit. Given the venue’s name, Spectrum, refers to a range of colours where lighting plays a pivotal role in setting the scene. The overall lighting is designed to create a warm and relaxing ambiance, a feeling of being at home, with the functionality to change to several scene settings depending on the occasion. At nightfall between 5:30pm and 7pm, Spectrum Lounge & Bar welcomes its guests with a sunset promotion–buy 1 get 1 on all its signature crafted cocktails. For more information, please visit www.facebook.com/spectrumrooftopbkk or call 02 098 1348.

beer buffet at brewski 29th level, radisson blu plaza bangkok Comfortable seating space that can accommodate between 50-80 guests and the state-of-the-art cooling system makes Brewski the perfect spot for large groups, corporate events or just hanging out with colleagues or friends. It also offers trendy private function and party, broadcasts The Premier League kick-off, and craft beers on tap. Beer lovers, don't miss the 'Brewski Beer Buffet' where the kegs will run from 7pm to 10pm daily at only B399 net per person. Offer applied only on local tap draft beer at Brewski on the 29th Level only. For reservations or more information, call 02 302 3333 or www.facebook.com/brewskirooftop.

a new Jacqueline Kennedy-themed bar Taking the top floor in Soi Som Khit’s new lifestyle complex Sansiri House, Jacqueline resembles the kind of restored beach house you might find at Bondi, Sydney except with a mix of pastel colours and warmer in both colour and lighting. Inside you’ll find a cocktail list dedicated to milestones in Jackie’s life such as Camera Girl, a fruity spritzer which takes its name from her short stint as a photographer and columnist for Washington Times Herald. The drinks are quite reasonable in price compared to some of the recent openings we’ve seen, all at B320 a glass. These are served on a marble-top copper bar—a staple and the favourite material of Jacqueline's designer, Shelly Kwok. The rear of the bar also opens up to serve customers who’d like a seat on the balcony overlooking the complex pool. For now it’s in soft-opening phase, but guests can expect jazz bands, DJs and even the occasional art exhibition in months to come.

sake worth raving about A Thong Lo community mall has recently welcomed the newest sake bar in town right by Nippon Kai Market. Yoshi Bar is a multi-level bar which calls home to 9:53 Community Mall, a Japanese-themed restaurant and art complex on the corner of Thong Lo Soi 9 and Soi 53. On the menu are Japanese comfort foods in snack size proportion like scallops, beef tongue and tomato and cheese caprese served alongside an impressive range of 16 different sakes, Japanese beer and spirits. From 5pm-8pm you’ll find tempting happy hours with Japanese beers like Sapporo as low as B120 a glass and Jim Beam highballs from B180. Later on the evenings the bar also welcomes different DJs to play downtempo beats and electronic tunes making for a fun but low-key environment. You might also enjoy their second floor tatami room which will have you seated cross-legged on the floor with pillows and knee-high tables. Sake enthusiasts can also test their skills and enrich their taste buds here with one of their sake flights.

NIGHTLIFE | interview

Marino Braccu General Manager and sommelier of 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Hong Kong

ecently awarded at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, Marino Braccu from 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Hong Kong (the only restaurant outside of Italy that has 3 Michelin stars and with a wine list of 2,200 labels) talks about his Vino Condiviso philosophy and regional wine varieties. You and Chef Umberto Bombana* just won the Art of Hospitality award at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019, and 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana has been ranked no.12 in the list (no.13 last year). How did you work to achieve it? 8 6 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

The Art of Hospitality award was unexpected, and so the no.12 rank. Every year it becomes more difficult to move up in the chart, so we are very happy of what we have achieved. This is the result of an everyday work to provide our guests a different experience: sometimes, dining in a 3 Michelinstar restaurant puts some pressure on, but our restaurant is a mix between the classic idea of an Italian restaurant and modern service. As we are located in a big metropolis, our clientele is dynamic. I simply ask my staff to make a memorable and warm

experience for them by just being themselves. You mentioned in your previous interview with Gastronauts Asia that you focus on regional varietals and small brands. How challenging is it for a small brand to approach Asia, and is the market ready to go beyond famous labels? I try to promote small wineries and indigenous grape varietals because “small” doesn’t mean “bad quality”. We try to guide our customers through new possibilities and I can see that the market is getting ready as they ask bangkok101.com

interview | NIGHTLIFE

Wine Cellar at Uno Mas, Centara Grand

Ambience of 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Hong Kong

Pietradolce terroir in Sicily, by Mt Etna

me to recommend them different options more often, besides the mainstream. For example, for me, Verdicchio is a good alternative to a Chardonnay selection (even though I slightly prefer Chardonnay) by glass, in terms of weight, importance and longevity. It is a matter of research on my side and an increaseing awareness among the wine drinkers. Sometimes, the work of a sommelier is similar to a chef: we work with distributors, guiding them to provide us what we think is worth having and what our clients love to drink.

Would you like discuss new upcoming projects and new objectives for the future? My passion became my job 20 years ago, so I want to go ahead with this wonderful journey. When I first came to Hong Kong from Australia I discovered Italian wine was not well represented: we have more than 600 grape varietals in Italy and I will continue to promote them. The most important thing is sharing: when a new product arrives, I immediately distribute it to other sommeliers and restaurants as exclusivity goes against our customers: they need to be able to find their favourite wines not only at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, but also in other restaurants. I’m also extremely proud of my staff: we got very close and my aim is to grow their expertise so they are able to work not only in Hong Kong or in Asia, but everywhere in the world. interview by Vittoria Dell’Anna

I wanted to open their minds on which brands to drink in terms of quality and which grape varietals we have in Italy at the moment; I’m pleased with the great success we have had, especially among the people in the industry.

Vino Condiviso is a yearly exclusive charity tasting in Hong Kong with a special selection from you. How did you come up with the idea? Vino Condiviso was born with the mission to help the kids and orphans in Hong Kong (which is the most important objective) by donating all the income to charity You just led a journey through and showing people an alternative the 20 iconic regions in Italy of what’s already available in the at Uno Mas (Centara Grand@ market. We selected 150 wines Centralworld, Bangkok). Can you from 45 different importers in tell us more about the event? Hong Kong and had more than I set up a degustation with 16 800 attendants. Condiviso means wines representing all the 20 "shared" in Italian, and we chose regions of Italy, covering North, this name because we are glad South and Centre. Sometimes to share the new selections major brands promote what’s with wine lovers, sommeliers convenient for them, giving people and professionals, and we all the wrong idea of the real market participated with the same in Italy nowadays. objective: to give back. bangkok101.com

For more content and exclusive interviews, please visit www. facebook.com/GastronautsAsia. M AY/J U N 2019 | 87

Cocktail photo credit: Chantich Kongchanmitkul Image: Supplied

NIGHTLIFE | review

Libération

The 'spill-ery on Piman 49's newest spakeasy

n a small pocket just off the beaten track of Bangkok’s high-end party district, we’re greeted by the newest edition to the nightlife scene: Libération, a dark and handsome speakeasy brought to us by the same team behind Rabbit Hole and Canvas BKK and bartenders from Backstage Cocktail Bar and Tropic City. In line with what seems to be Bangkok’s new in, Libération isn’t exactly hidden but it’s not in plain view to those passing by either. Set upon the fourth floor of Piman 49, you’ll have to make your way past Gai Yang Sua Yai and take the lift by the toilet. Inside you’ll find interior which could be likened to that of 008 Bar, however darker, smaller and without the view. A large marbled bar and a couple of short tables and chairs with wood-lined walls and flooring, the venue can seat around 25 people. What really sets it apart, however, is a small distillery room by the bathroom. Inside, bartenders use a rotary evaporator to experiment with the different flavours of juices and alcohol.

8 8 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

Flavour experimentation isn’t limited to just the liquids, as bar goers will find out on the menu. The four-chapter affair begins with propaganda, a play on the bar’s name with illustrations to match. Following propaganda is plot twist, a spinoff to both the flavours and posters in the first chapter— utilising propaganda posters from the same era and recycling ingredients from the first chapter but with different flavours. How do you achieve a sustainable cocktail? By extracting multiple flavours from a single ingredient, they tell us. The first example of this can be seen with the Snooze No More which essentially recycles coffee used from their cold brew. By using a slightly different extraction method they’re able to produce coffee cherry. Snooze No More then adds banana rum, coffee cherry, islay whisky and toasted coconut bitters (B390). The second is with chocolate curd made from the condensed milk in Propaganda’s Invisible Passenger. Chapter three is where things get really interesting. In a slightly

different manner to the menufree approach you might find at J Boroski, Libération utilises three ingredients: Waterbug commonly used for pastes in Northern Thailand, Cacao from Chanthaburi and goat’s milk. In essence, chapter three is kind of like a made-toorder suit, there’s a template but instead of it being made around you, it’s made according to the bartenders – and what they have available in their inventory. So who's behind it all? While Libération itself is brought to us from the team behind Canvas BKK and Rabbit Hole, the bar is run by familiar faces like Krit “Joey” Parkobdee of Tropic City, cocktail innovator Suwincha “Chacha” Singsuwan of Rabbit Hole and Kitibordee ‘Gov’ Chotubtim of Backstage Cocktail Bar. by Joseph Lam

Libération

4F, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 093 654 2500 Open daily: 7pm-1:30am www.facebook.com/liberationbkk bangkok101.com

FAMILY-OWNED WINE PRODUCER IN COLLIO MARKO PRIMOSIC

Italy Friuli Venezia Giulia

Marko Primosic together with his brother Boris and father Silvan are the grandchildren of Carlo who, at the end of 19th century, supplied the wine merchants delivering the wine for the Emperor from the Collio Region until Vienna. The first harvest under the brand Primosic was bottled by Silvan in 1964.

Azienda Agricola Primosic is one of the most renowned and historical wineries in Friuli , Northeast of Italy. It is located in Oslavia near Gorizia not far from Trieste and Venice, between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea. The Oslavia Hill is the heart of Collio, land blessed by Bora wind and with a terroir vocated to white wines. The Collio Consortium was founded in 1967, the number one bottle from the consortium was from the Primosic Cellar.

IT IS ALWAYS THANKS TO THE LAND THAT WE GET QUALITY WINE

GFour is the exclusive importer and distributor of Primosic wines in Thailand since 2017.

Currently available in the best five stars hotels and fine dining restaurants in Bangkok and Phuket: Ribolla di Oslavia Riserva, Klin, Chardonnay Gmajne, Pinot Grigio Murno, Merlot Murno & more. Marko visits Thailand for first time this month to also attend Primosic Wine Dinner at Rossini Restaurant on Thursday, 24 May. A special menu created by Executive Chef Gaetano Palumbo and paired exclusively with Primosic wines will be served from 20 to 26 May at Sheraton Grande Hotel Bangkok.

NIGHTLIFE | feature

5 WINE-BASED COCKTAILS THAT GO WELL BEYOND MIMOSAS Low alcohol by volume (ABV), fruity in essence and refreshing in warm climates, are wine-based cocktails the next big thing? By Joseph Lam

ow alcohol by volume (ABV), fruity in essence and refreshing in warm climates, are winebased cocktails the next big thing? We’ve all seen coffee-infused, beer-based or even a mix of ya-dong in our drinks, but what about

wine? As Bangkok’s wine scene continues to ramp up with new varieties from natural to new latitude, we think it’s time to shine the light on the bars making wine-based cocktails happen--and no, we’re not talking spritzers, mimosas or sangria.

ADONAISE Liberation’s light, citrus cocktail featuring vermouth distilled with Cabernet Sauvignon. The first part to understand about Adonais is that it’s actually using an adaption of wine. By fermenting and later distilling cabernet sauvignon with champagne yeast, thyme, ketamine and cinnamon, Liberation is able to produce their own homemade vermouth. The outcome, a lighter and sweeter vermouth which doesn’t leave a heavy aftertaste but still cleanses the palate. The cocktail itself is a little acidic but easy to drink with hints of citrus. “For me, wine has more of a crisp flavour, something more straightforward than spirits,” Kitibordee (Gov) Chotubtim Bartender at Liberation R&G Blue Parrot’s Rosé & Grapefruit cocktail. The R&G is a light, refreshing cocktail made to suit this bar’s laidback and calm atmosphere. Where else can you get a drink by the pool in Sathorn? With 14 rosés on the menu, it was only natural that they’d experiment with the flavour and that’s when R&G was born. Adding Grapefruit Syrup, Pomelo Juice and Tonic Water, this cocktail has enough flavour to keep you hooked and is mixed well enough that it won’t dry out the mouth like some wines. “Rose Wine has a strong citrus fruit flavour, compared to other wines or spirits, that’s why it fits perfectly with grapefruit and tonic,” Michael Brunot General Manager and Director of Blue Parrot, Revolucion Cocktail and La Lupita 9 0 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

bangkok101.com

feature | NIGHTLIFE

MUSE Rabbit Hole’s wine-based cocktail featuring sauvignon blanc. Rabbit Hole’s offers two wine-based cocktails which include Muse, a mix of coffee from Doi Chang, yuzu sake, orange swell, raspberry syrup, wine and verjus. Doi Chang coffee with a dark roast has a slightly different flavour to regular coffee hence it being a good choice to infuse. Verjus is an alcohol-free like syrup made from kombucha, citric acid and raspberry acid. Low ABV cocktails are often hard to sell because customers don’t see them as a value for money option, Muse’s flavour is sure to change that. “What’s important to understand about wine is quality control is hard because, quite simply, a bottle opened three hours ago will mix slightly different to one opened three minutes ago. Wine also helps to cancel out strong flavours, making it easier to consume than spirits,” Suwincha (Chacha) Singsuwan Head Bartender at Rabbit Hole QUEEN B SWIZZLE Tropic City’s spiced white wine syrup cocktail. This cocktails begins with bartenders making a spiced sparkling wine reduction which combines wine sugar, orange, lemon, star anise and muddled black pepper before being boiled. Later bourbon, watermelon juice, homemade coconut sorbet, lime and Mancino chinato. The result: strong, spicy and fruity cocktail. “The spiced white wine reduction provides the sweetness to the cocktail while also bringing a fruity flavour from the wine. The added spices give an extra kick and help support the main flavours of the cocktail,” Olando Kent Bartender Tropic City 24 SANGRIA Pour’s 24-hour fermented black salt Sangria. Before jumping to any conclusions about this being your typical sangria, pause and take a look at the ingredients first. • red wine • cinnamon stick • orange • apple raisin tea • honey • lemon slice “the smell of smoked cherry wood is all over the glass during sipping. The first taste is bittersweet but also smooth, then the aroma of the tea comes with the fresh of the lemon. Make the taste last longer than regular cocktail you have ever met.,” Bom Nopadon Bartender of Pour bangkok101.com

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NIGHTLIFE | listings

BAR Aqua

All-day dining and evening cocktails in Bangkok. Relax by the koi pond amidst tropical foliage in Aqua’s courtyard setting. Order a bite from any one of the dining establishments, or sample rare whiskies and cocktails. This alfresco lounge is also ideal for smokers with a selection of cigars on offer. Enjoy live DJ sets on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 www.anantara.com/en/siam-bangkok/ restaurants/aqua

Tel: 02 254 1234 Open daily: 3:00pm-12:00am www.hyatt.com

The Bar

Featuring black and gold colour theme with both indoor and outdoor seatings, this 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated, quiet and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly-up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 7am-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Beer Belly

Explore a selection of signature cocktails, wines, and spirits, while the culinary team prepares a variety of snacks and delicatessen favourites in a contemporary lounge setting. 4F, Le Méridien Bangkok 40/5 Surawong Rd. Open daily 5:30pm-11:30pm Tel: 02 232 8888 www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com

Beer Belly takes over the large space on the right-hand side of 72 Courtyard’s ground floor and offers 20 beers on tap, ranging from Leo (B180/pint) and Asahi (B260/pint) to La Chouffe (B420/pint) and L’Olmaia LA5 (B480/pint). Bottled Thai craft beers like Chalawan (B180) and Phuket Beer (B180) are also available alongside East-meets-West drinking snacks like pork wontons (B140) and barbecue ribs (B320). While inside space provides games on the house like jenga, chess, darts, pool, ping pong and even a beer pong table; head outside for bar seating and tables when the weather's nice. GF, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7770 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/beerbellybkk

Bar@494

Blue Parrot

Bamboo Chic Bar

A cosy place with an extensive selection of international wines. Chic décor, ambient lighting, and an excellent selection of food and wine make this vibrant bar one of Bangkok’s most popular evening venues in downtown area. Come to enjoy world-class cocktails and take advantage of daily Happy Hours and unbeatable value with a wine buffet. Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd. 9 2 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

Revolucion Cocktail transformed his backyard into a tropical hideaway, a family-friendly restaurant named 'Blue Parrot'. Blue Parrot is an oasis in the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Offering a swimming pool, pétanque strips and kids play area, it is the perfect hub for a relaxing brunch, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner or after-work drinks. The menu delivers a fresh and tasty international cuisine as well as live

BBQ and kids' menu. 50 Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 235 4822 Open: 11:30am-11pm www.blueparrot-bangkok.com

The Diplomat Bar

Drop by any night and you’re likely to find suited and booted business types chatting over martinis. Dark wood touches, soft yellow lighting, and a den-like feel partly account for the bar’s popularity from 8pm Monday to Thursday (and 8:30pm Friday and Saturday), a talented band entertains with jazz and R&B sounds. 1F, Conrad Bangkok Hotel 87 Wireless Rd. Open: Sun-Thu, 7am-1am, Fri-Sat, 7am-2am Tel: 02 690 9244 www.facebook.com/ diplomatbarconradbangkok

Evil Man Blues

Evil Man Blues is a Jazz cocktail bar made out of a man’s madness. Expect the close knit vibe that is full of charm, sexiness, and spasms of love. Themed after a 1950s American diner as a homage to the American West Coast jazz bars of the '50s and '60s, purple and blue neon lights illuminate a well-polished space manned by new-in-town bartender, Liam Baer, who serves a list of creative twists on classic cocktails. GF, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

FindThePhotoBooth

FindThePhotoBooth is a hidden bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE speakeasy and the second bar following the success of FindTheLockerRoom, a high energy bar with great hospitality and delicious cocktails. 11 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 117 2636 www.facebook.com/FindThePhotoBooth

Rabbit Hole

A proper cocktail bar run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What’s more, the bartenders really know their spirits. 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 081 822 3392 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.facebook.com/rabbitholebkk

Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar

A world-class wine bar that isn’t just all about wine. There’s dozens of vinos to choose from, as well as some exciting options for the non-wine-inclined, while refined, rustic European cuisine is served up tapas-style for social dining. 2F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1133 Open daily: 11am-midnight www.riedelwinebarbkk.com

Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant

This sophisticated (and elevated) drink spot and bistro offers tipplers both a novel-sized wine list as well as a long list of creative cocktails— many of which make use of in-house infused spirits. 37F, Pullman Hotel Bangkok G Open daily: 6pm-late Tel: 096 860 7990 www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk

Surface

Classic French specialist Chef Chalee Kader successfully delivers comfort food that appeals to local tastes. The newly renovated dining room with a view of their own lush greenery garden reflects the fresh produce on the plates. At night a young high-so crowd fills the sofas and chairs. bangkok101.com

107 Sukhumvit Soi 53 Tel: 02 258 2858 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.facebook.com/ SurfaceKitchenAndGardenLab

26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Wine Connection The Grill

Character Whisky & Cigar Bar

There are currently 18 Wine Connection outlets in Bangkok, however, this branch sets itself apart focusing on grilled meats— especially beef—to be enjoyed with the large selection of reasonably priced vinos (available mainly by the bottle, but with some “by the glass” options as well). 1F, The Groove@CentralWorld Open daily: 11am-midnight Tel: 02 613 1037 www.wineconnection.co.th

ROOFTOP SKY BAR Aire Bar

Offering a variety of wines, beers, and artisanal cocktails, with delicious snacks to boot. Plus, one of the best views of the city (day and night). A laid-back bar perfect for unwinding with a cocktail in hand. 28F, Hyatt Place Sukhumvit Bangkok 22/5, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Open: Mon-Thu, 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 5pm-1am; Sun, 3pm-11pm Tel: 02 055 1234 www.facebook.com/airebarbangkok

Both outlets of this warm and comfortable smoker’s lounge—one of which doubles as a skybar—serve some of the rarest and finest single malt whiskies from Scotland (and beyond), as well as housing humidors stocked with premium handmade cigars from Cuba, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic and more. Courtyard at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155 Rajadamri Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 1pm-midnight Tel: 02 254 4726 32F, Compass Skyview Hotel 12 Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 011 1133 www.facebook.com/characterbar

CRU Champagne Bar

This high altitude hot spot is owned by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com

Long Table

Char Rooftop Bar

Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious.

Although known for its massive communal dining table, you can also glug signature cocktails or new latitude wines while enjoying the view from the 25th floor. 25F, 48 Column Building, Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 02 302 2557 Open daily: 11am-2am www.longtablebangkok.com

Moon Bar & Vertigo

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Bangkok offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and M AY/J U N 2019 | 93

NIGHTLIFE | listings the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for a romantic rendezvous. 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Open daily: 7am-1am Tel: 02 012 1234 www.westingrandesukhumvit.com bangkok.park.hyatt.com

CLUB 8 on Eleven

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 Open daily: 5pm-2am Tel: 02 797 0000 www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

Spectrum Lounge & Bar

Enjoy the vibrant social scene and breathtaking views at the newest rooftop bar in Bangkok. Spread over the top three floors, the bar features spacious indoor loungers, an outdoor terrace and perfect unwinding spots with a wide selection of premium tapas, crafted cocktails and DJs entertainment every night. 29F-30F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Open daily 5:30pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 098 1234 www.facebook.com/spectrumrooftopbkk

A gastro bar with a modern industrial twist and an upper floor dance area. This nightlife venue offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes with a modern twist. 14 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 093 421 1991 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/8oneleven

Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe plus great music and one of the best sound systems where the floor moves to the beat of the music. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com

ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar Red Sky Bar

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Rooftop Terrace at Penthouse Bar+Grill

Set high above the glittering lights of Bangkok's Chao Phraya river, discover the perfect setting to relax, unwind and take in unbeatable 360° panoramic vistas. Select from delicious, creative cocktails made by champion mixologists as you enjoy the live music from an experienced jazz singer. Millennium Hilton Bangkok, 32F, 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Open daily: 5pm-1am Tel: 02 442 2000 www3.hilton.com

Zest Bar and Terrace

Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly This dramatic skybar is the perfect spot to drink in Bangkok’s night time crafted cocktails and a range of skyline in an outdoor garden lounge gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. setting. Choose anything from a bucket of drinks, to curated cocktails 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. and expertly crafted bites. 9 4 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House—decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade, 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

Sugar Club Bangkok

A brand-new venue dedicated to bringing Bangkok’s party crowd the bangkok101.com

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NIGHTLIFE | listings best Hip-Hop clubbing experience. It is the newest addition to the city’s energetic nightlife scene, featuring an exceptional state-of-the-art sound and intelligent lighting system that will rock seven days a week. 37 Sukhumvit Soi 1/1 Tel: 061 391 3111 Open daily: 10pm-4am www.sugarclub-bangkok.com

apothecary, this lively spot has a casual old-school feel, indoor and outdoor seating, an awesome line-up of live music almost every day of the week, tasty bar snacks, and a drink selection including beer and custom craft cocktails. No dress code, no cover charge, and no pretention! 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 090 626 7655 Open daily: Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am, Fri, 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun, 3pm-midnight www.apotekabkk.com

that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com

Maggie Choo’s

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism PUBS and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. The Drunken Bamboo Bar GF, Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd. Leprechaun A small and busy landmark of Tel: 02 635 6055 the East’s past glories that is, This heavily Irish-themed nevertheless, romantic and intimate, Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am establishment offers delicious pub www.facebook.com/maggiechoos thanks to the legendary jazz band grub and drinks from the Emerald that plays each night. Ideal for Isle and beyond. The nightly a boozy night out or a romantic entertainment includes weekly pub SoulBar quizzes, generous happy hours, and special occasion. Metalwork, modern art, and live The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok complimentary snacks. Motown, Funk, Blues, and Soul, form Four Points by Sheraton, 4 Sukhumvit 15 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) the backbone of this stark, yet cool, Tel: 02 659 9000 Tel: 02 309 3255 shophouse-come-bar on the edge of Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Open daily: 10am-1am Chinatown’s art district. Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com 945 Charoenkrung Rd. www.mandarinoriental.com Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: 6pm-1am The Huntsman www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok English-style pub, cool and dark, Black Cabin with lots of nooks and crannies and Half the space at Wild & Co. a Sunday roast like no other. restaurant is given over to this Whisgars GF, The Landmark Hotel, brick-walled pub, which eschews the Known as one of Asia’s best whisky 138 Sukhumvit Rd. mainstream Billboard 100, focusing and cigar bars, the Whisgars team Tel: 02 254 0404 instead on live bands. Before and visited over a dozen distilleries and Open daily: 11:30am-2am after the bands play, resident DJ’s did countless tastings to provide www.landmarkbangkok.com/ spin vinyl, relying on personal guests with an unparalleled selection huntsman-pub collections rather than playlists. of the finest, rarest single malt and Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana single cask whiskies available. The Tel: 061 515 6989 in-house curator has walked the Open daily: 5:30pm-1am farms in Nicaragua, touched the soil LIVE MUSIC www.facebook.com/blackcabinbar in Honduras, visited cigar factories in the Dominican Republic, and Adhere the 13th Blues explored Cuba to bring the very best Bar selection of cigars in the world. The One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest creative and experienced mixologists hangouts, and nothing more than an carefully craft award-winning aisle packed with five tables, a tiny cocktails using only the freshest bar, and a band that churns out cool ingredients and the best techniques. blues, Motown, and originals. Talented entertainers deliver live jazz 13 Samsen Rd. (opposite Soi 2) every Wednesday and Friday, and Open daily: 6pm-midnight house magician each week. Tel: 089 769 4613 Brown Sugar 16 Sukhumvit Soi 23 www.facebook.com/adhere13thbluesbar Tel: 02 664 4252 Brown Sugar Apoteka Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. Open daily: 2pm-2am A restaurant and coffee house by day www.whisgars.com Built to emulate a 19th-century 9 6 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

bangkok101.com

Loha Prasat, Wat Ratchanatda

getting there | MAP

RAIL

SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit SKYTRAIN (BTS) (MRT) is another fast and reliable The Bangkok Transit System, or way to get across town. The BTS, is an elevated train network 18-station line stretches 20km covering the major commercial from Hualamphong (near the areas. Trains run every few minutes central railway station) up to from 6 am to midnight, making it a Bang Sue in the north. Subways quick and reliable transport option, run from 6am to midnight daily, especially during heavy traffic with trains arriving every 5-7 hours. Fares range from B16 to B59, minutes. The underground however tourist passes allowing connects with the BTS at MRT unlimited daily travel (B140) as well Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT as trip packages. However, they do Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT not provide any free shuttle bus Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit that transits passengers to and from stations. Subway fares range stations or nearby areas. from about B16 to B42. www.bts.co.th www.bangkokmetro.co.th

Airport Rail Link A monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with stops in downtown Bangkok and in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line was closed in 2015. There are eight stations in total including Suvarnabhumi (A1), Lat Krabang (A2), Ban Thap Chang (A3), Hua Mak (A4), Ramkamhaeng (A5), Makkasan (A6), Ratchaprarop (A7), and Phaya Thai (A8). www.srtet.co.th

RIVER

ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B15 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 7pm.

CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats

tend to be frequent. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of intercity waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats

ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B8 and B12-20. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should always be negotiated MOTORCYCLE TAXI beforehand. In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, TAXI motorcycle taxis are the fastest, Bangkok has thousands of albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable metered, air-con taxis available by their colourful vests, motorbike 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the bangkok101.com

first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuktuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40. M AY/J U N 2019 | 99

MAP | greater bangkok Uthai Thani

UTHAI THANI

CHAI NAT

LOP BURI

Nakhon Ratchasima c

Chiang Mai

SING BURI

Kanchanaburi

THAILAND

ANG THONG

NAKHON RATCHASIMA

SARABURI

Nakhon Ratchasima

Ubon

Bangkok Pattaya Koh Samet Koh Chang

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

CAMBODIA

Andaman Sea

AYUTTHAYA

NAKHON NAYOK

Koh Samui Krabi

Phuket

PATHUM THANI NAKHON PATHOM

LAOS Udon Thani

Lop Buri

SUPHAN BURI

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MALAYSIA

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M YA N M A R

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Prachuap Khiri Khan Ko Kut

20 KM 20 miles

Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border

1 0 0 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

SIGHTSEEING FLOATING MARKETS 1 Damnoen Saduak a Bang Krachao 2 Amphawa b Samphran Riverside 3 Talin Chan c Samphran Elephant 4 Khlong Lat Mayom Ground & Zoo d 5 Bang Nam Pheung Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World MUSEUMS f Rama IX Royal Park 1 Erawan Museum g Mahachai Market 2 House of Museums h Phra Pathommachedi 3 Thai Film Museum i Koh Kret Pottery Village 4 Museum of Counterfeit j Rangsit Science Center Goods k Samutprakarn Crocodile Farm and Zoo

NIGHT BAZAAR 1 Asiatique The Riverfront 2 Rot Fai Market, Srinakarin 3 Rot Fai Market, Ratchada 4 Chang Chui Bangkok Plane Market 5 Patpong

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greater bangkok & the chao phraya | MAP

Tanya Tanee j

PAK KRET

Don Mueng

Don Mueng Int. Airport

Ko Kret i

Sai Mai

Royal Irrigation Dept.

Lak Si

Rajpruek

The Legacy

Bang Khen

Northpark

Khlong Sam wa

Royal Thai Army Sport Center

Thanont

MUENG NONTHABURI

Chatuchak

Panya Indra

Lat Phrao Bueng Kum

Bang Sue

Khan na Yao

Chatuchak

Bang Phlat

Navatanee

Phayathai

Dusit

Mini Buri

Mo Chit

Bang Sue

Wang Thong lang

Din-Daeng

Taling Chan

Huai Khwang

Ratchathewi

Bangkok Noi

Bangkok Yai 5 *

Thon Buri

Watthana

Lumpini

Bang Rak

Khlong San

Bang Wa

Bang Kholaem

Lat Krabang

Suan Luang Khlong Toei

Sathorn Prawet

Chom Thong

60 th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park

Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande

Pathumwan Phasi Charoen

Saphan Sung

Bang Kapi

Yan Nawa 4

Bang Bon

Phra Khanong

Suan Luang Rama IX

Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport

Phra Pradaeng

Rat Burana

Bang Na 5

Summit Windmill

Bearing

Bang Khun Thian

Thung Khru

Mueang Kaew

Green Valley

PHRA SAMUT CHEDI

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Bangpoo

Gulf of Thailand

bangkok101.com

M AY/J U N 2019 | 101

MAP | sukhumvit road

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1 0 2 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

HOTELS 1 Conrad Bangkok 2 Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 3 Seven Hotel 4 JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 5 Rembrandt Hotel & Suites Bangkok 6 Four Points by Sheraton 7 Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11

Galleria 10 Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 11 Marriott Executive Apartments 12 Grande Centre Point Terminal 21 13 Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 8 9

Le Fenix Sukhumvit 5 We*Do Gallery 10 RMA Institute Radisson Suites 11 Sombat Permpoon Bangkok Sukhumvit Gallery 12 S Gallery ARTS & CULTURE 13 Thong Lor Art 1 Japan Foundation Space 2 Attic Studios 14 Gallery G23 3 WTF Gallery and 15 Subhashok The Café Arts Centre (S.A.C.) 4 The Pikture Gallery 16 Yellow Korner 17 Ardel’s Third Place Art Workshop & Framing Gallery 14

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16 The ChindAsia Club 17 The Iron Fairies 18 Fat Gut'z 19 Shades of Retro 20 diVino 21 W XYZ Bar 22 Marshmallow 23 Oskar Bistro 24 TUBA Design Furniture & Restaurant 25 Apoteka

bangkok101.com

vit

Soi

NIGHTLIFE 11 Long Table 12 Diplomat Bar 13 The Living Room 14 Barsu 15 WTF Gallery and CafÃ©

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CLUBS 1 Glow Club 2 Demo 3 Levels Club 4 8 on Eleven 5 Beam 6 Narz Club

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PUBS 7 Hanrahans 8 The Pickled Liver 9 Robin Hood 10 The Royal Oak

Ekkamai

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MALLS 1 Robinsons 2 Terminal 21 3 The Emporium 4 EmQuartier

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umvit

Sukh

ukda

Phrom Phong

Suk

t Soi

eng M

umvi

Soi 35

Soi Sa

Sukh

Sukhumvit

Water Library Brasserie at Central Embassy 27 Nest 28 Above Eleven

EMBASSIES IN India PH Philippines ES Spain SE Sweden PK Pakistan JO Jordan BN Brunei Darussalam

M AY/J U N 2019 | 103

MAP | siam/chit lom

Soi 29

Soi 3 5

Soi Sukhumvit 1

Soi Lang Suan 1

Soi 4

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Soi 4

Soi 5 Soi 5

Chulalongkorn University Area

200 m 1 000 ft

Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market

1 0 4 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square 3 Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate Bangkok 6 Novotel Bangkok Platinum Pratunam 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 8 Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 9 The St. Regis Bangkok 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Conrad Bangkok 13 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 14 Hotel Muse 15 The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Sarasin

Soi 6

Soi 7

udi 2

Soi 3

am R

Soi 2

Ratchadamri

Soi Nai Lert

14 12

u Soi R

Soi Ruam Rudi

Witthayu Rd

UA IT

NL Soi Mahatlek Luang3

Th. Witthayu Rd

Soi Som Khit Soi Tonson

So i6

Soi 5

Ratchadamri Rd

19 5

Soi Mahatlek Luang 2 8

CO VN

Phloen Chit 15

Henri Dunant Rd

Soi Mahatlek Luang 1

vit 2

Rajamangala University

Soi 11

Soi 4

Soi 2

Soi 3 Soi 9

Soi 1

Soi 8

Phloen Chit

Chit Lom

m ukhu

Phaya Thai Rd

Siam Square

an R hith ng P

f 10

Soi S

Soi 7

Dua

Soi Chit Lom

Siam

National Stadium

Soi 31 Soi 33

Soi 23 Soi 25

Soi 27

Soi Lang Suan

Rama I

Soi 10

Soi Kaesem San1

Soi Kaesem San2

ay e ssw Expr

b 2

Nai Lert Park

ohn

Wat Pathum Wanaram

Nak

Srapathum Palace

2 13

Chit Lom

lerm

Prathunam

Witthayu Bridge

Soi 32

Saeb c

Hua Chang Bridge

Soi 30

Khlong San

Ratchaprarop

Soi 19

Soi 15

ID Soi 20

Ratchathewi

Cha

Phetchaburi Soi 18

uri Rd

Soi 17

Phetchab

Soi 22

Soi 13

Soi Ruam Rudi

Sarasin Rd Lumphini Park

d 16 Centara Watergate Siam Ocean World 10 Erawan Plaza e 11 The Peninsula Pavillion Ganesha and 17 Mayfair, Bangkok Trimurti Shrine Plaza 12 Amarin Plaza Marriott Executive f Erawan Shrine g Apartments Phra Indra Shrine 13 Central Chidlom 18 Hotel Indigo 14 All Seasons Place 15 Central Embassy NIGHTLIFE Bangkok 19 The Athenee 1 Hard Rock Cafe 2 Red Sky Bar SHOPPING Hotel, a Luxury 3 Balcony Humidor 16 Siam Square Collection Hotel 20 Oriental Residence 17 Pratunam Market & Cigar Bar 4 Café Trio 19 Siam Square One Bangkok 5 Hyde&Seek ARTS & CULTURE EMBASSIES 1 Bangkok Art and MALLS CH Switzerland 1 MBK Culture Centre FI Finland 2 Siam Discovery (BACC) ID Indonesia 2 100 Tonson Gallery 3 Siam Center CO Colombia 4 Siam Paragon NL Netherlands 5 Panthip Plaza SIGHTSEEING NZ New Zealand a 6 The Platinum Jim Thomson QA Qatar House Fashion Mall UA Ukraine b Madame Tussauds 7 CentralWorld UK United Kingdom 8 Zen@ Museum US United State c CentralWorld Queen Savang VN Vietnam Vadhana Museum 9 Gaysorn IT Italy

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tR nan 8

Thaniya

Soi 4

Patpong 1 Patpong 2

8 Than Tawan Rd Soi 6

He nry

Trok Klue

Sap Rd s Naradhiwaind ra Rajanagar

Soi 12

Soi 10

Naret Rd

aya

Tha

Soi So ng Ph ra

i Rd

6 3 11

Sala Daeng

Soi 11 Yaek 3

Sala Daeng 1

Soi 6 b

CA Ram

Sala Daeng 1/1

Soi Phra Phinit

Suan Phlu Soi 1

Sathorn Nuea Rd Sathorn Tai Rd

MX 12

Suan Suan

Soi 1

Silom

Sala Daeng Rd

St. Joseph School

Soi 5

Soi 7

Soi 8

Convent Rd

Soi 1

Soi 3

Soi 7

Soi 9

MN Soi 9

Soi 14

Charo

at 2

Chulalongkorn Hospital

Surawong Rd

Suan Phlu – Sathron Soi 3

Soi Phiphat 2

janagarindra Rd

roe

at 1

Char

Cha

Soi 13

en R

Soi

King Mongkut’s University of Technology

Chong Nonsi

Soi 13 int Lou ise – Sathor n Soi 11

oen R

tho Sa

Surasak

Soi Sa

So rn

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Lumpini Park

Sathorn Nuea Rd Sathorn Tai Rd Soi 15

at Rd

un Kr n oe ar

So i5 7 S So oi 5 Ch i 61 9 aro en Kru ng

So So i 51 i5 3

Cha

Naradhiwas Ra

Suras ak

suri

Chulalongkorn University

Sam Yan

Pan Rd

i4 6 i5 1 0

Saphan Taksin

SathornSo

2 i4 So 44 i So

Iam

Silom Rd

Ta Taksin ksi nB rid g

chai

chit

Surawong Rd Kam

Soi Nom

Soi 14 Decho Rd

Oriental

Soi 1 8 Soi 16

Soi 38 Soi 40

Soi 2 6

Dumax

n Rd

Soi Santiphap

Soi 19

Wat Suwan

Rak– 1 Soi 3 6

Phloi

Soi Puttha Oso

Pramua

Bang

5 5 6

Soi 30

Soi 3

Sek Rd

Wat Muang Khae 6

Maha

Trok Ph et

Soi 32

Post

Soi 5

on Rd Na kh Soi 39

Soi 30

Si Phraya PT

Soi

Soi 13

Si Phraya

Soi 11

Hua Lamphong

Ma ha

Rd Krung Charo en

Cha roen

Khlong San

e Exp ressw ay

2 nd Stat

Nak hon

wang

Soi Sa

Phr aN akh are

Marine Dept.

Lat Ya Rd

Soi 22 Soi P/2ra– Prach um dit

Soi Wanit 2

siam/chit lom | MAP

13 4

Phlu

Soi Nantha Mozart

hlu 8

Immigration Oﬃce

HOTELS 1 The Peninsula Bangkok 2 Millenium Hilton 3 Shangri-La Bangkok 4 Centre Point Hotel Silom 5 Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton 7 Lebua at State Tower 8 Holiday Inn 9 Pullman Bangkok Hotel G 10 Le Meridien 11 Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park 12 Banyan Tree Bangkok 13 The Sukhothai Bangkok 14 W Bangkok bangkok101.com

15 Ascott Sathorn Bangkok

Art to Art gallery Artery Gallery

EMBASSIES AT Austria BE Belgium BARS WITH Shopping CA Canada 1 Robinsons VIEWS CE Germany 1 Three Sixty Lounge 2 River City Shopping GR Greece 2 Sky Bar 3 Silom Village FR France 3 Panorama 4 Silom/Patpong MY Malaysia 4 Vertigo Too Night-Market MX Mexico 5 Jim Thompson MN Myanmar NIGHTLIFE Shop Surawong PT Portugal 5 La Casa del 6 O.P. Place SG Singapore 7 Iconsiam Habano Bangkok 8 The Jam Factory 6 Bamboo Bar 9 Klongsan Plaza 7 Eat Me 8 Tapas SIGHTSEEING ARTS & CULTURE a Snake Farm b MR Kukrit’s House 1 Serindia Gallery 2 Number 1 Gallery 3 Gossip Gallery 4 H Gallery 5 Bangkokian Museum 6 Kathmandu Photo Gallery 7 8

200 m 1 000 ft

River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market

M AY/J U N 2019 | 105

MAP | yaowarat/pahurat (chinatown&little india ) Ma

u iP

rad

na Na

Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station

Hua Lamphong

Mittrphan Rd 2 oi YS

t Rd

Rama IV Rd

Yaowarat oi

aro

Tri i ngs

D oi

et i Ph

Rajchawongse

a ut

Saph

an Ph

ng R Princess Mother Memorial Park

HOTELS 1 Grand China Princess 2 Shanghai Mansion Bangkok

1 000 ft

River Ferry River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market

ARTS & CULTURE 1 Chalermkrung Theatre 2 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre

D Tha

Sap

Memorial Bridge

ae in D

t Phu

200 m

an aph

e pir Em

Tha Din Daeng

han

Phu

Ba Soi T

ha K

lang

ha R

TEMPLES a Wat Ratburana b Wat Phra Piren c Wat Bophit Phimuk Worawihan d Wat Chakrawat e Wat Chaichana Songkhram f Wat Mangkon Kamalawat g Wat Samphan thawongsaram Worawiharn h Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha) i Wat Kanikapol j Wat Disanukaram

MARKETS 1 Lang Krasuang Market 1 Ban Mo (Hi-Fi Market) 1 Pak Khlong Talat (Flower Market) 1 Yot Phiman Market 1 Pahurat–Indian Fabric Market 1 Sampeng Market 1 Woeng Nakhon Kasem (Thieves Market) 1 Khlong Tom Market 1 Talat Kao (Old Market) 1 Talat Mai (New Market)

SIGHTSEEING k Chinatown Gate at the Odient Circle

1 0 6 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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Marine Dept. N

o nM

Rachini Rd Atsadang Rd

d at R

Mit

at Rd

Song W

Kru

ra anu

Chaiyaphun

Trok Itsaranuphap

Mangkon

nit 1

Y Soi 9

Phadungdao–Soi Texas

Soi 18

Soi 4

Plang Nam

Soi 21

Soi 16 Soi 6

Chi

YSoi3

Soi Wa

Anu

itri

t Rd Song Sawa

Rd Soi 14 Soi 8

Y Soi 15

Ratchawong Rd

Soi 19

n Mangko

Sua Pa Rd

Y Soi 23

Luean Rit

Y Soi 21 Y Soi 19

d ng R

Y Soi 11

1 Soi Aner Keng

Chakkrawat

at R

hur

Pha

R ari

rap

Sampeng Lane – Soi Wanit

Y Soi 17

Soi 17

Maha Chak

Soi 8

Soi 10

YS10 CKS12

Soi 15

Soi 11

Soi 13

9 So i

6 i So

Yaow

4 i So

Pha

Rd arat

Rd Chakphet

Rd hat rip

i So

i Sir So

ha kP

Tro

d iR Cha

ha Ma

Rd an

o Ph

ak Unng d R ng

o Th Ti

gR un Kr 1

g Ran

h tip

is W ok

s Ka

Charoen Krung Rd

t Rd

Romaneenart Park

Khlon

n Rd

t Phire

Wa Thom

Si Thammathirat

Sir

Trok Si

k Rd Woracha

Soi

hat

Chi

u Kr

ng R

Lua

itri

Mai

Ban Dok

ulin Soi Ch

rattanakosin (oldtown) | MAP Ra

m So

Rama VIII Bridge

its

VII

ulo

tP de

Sam sen

ok R d noe nN Dam

Dinso Rd

cha Rat at Rd

Boriph

Chai R

ak R Wo

Soi B

Khlon

an B

rach

g Ong

Ang

hir

at R

hai Rd

Ch ak

hit

Wat Chakrawat

Anu

at R

won

g Rd

on gR

Son

tch

lao

Bridg e

Maha

Rd Dinso

g Rd

okk

orial

at R

kraw

Chak

Phr

Wat Kanlayannamit

ai kY ko ng Ba

nR lon

Wat Bophit Pimuk

Market

Mem

ari Am Kh

d Pak Khlong Memorial Bridge

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Sri

un Ar

et R

Yodpiman Wat Liap Market

kph

Rajinee

Ka sem

Cha

pho

ak ra

Phahurat Rd

et R

lat

m ha

Phir a

Wat Arun (Temple of the dawn)

an hak

Burapha Rd

Phra Phi Phit

Museum of Siam ett Soi S

Royal Theatre

Thip Wari

Ban Mo Rd

rat

Wat Arun

ho etup

ha Ma

Tha Tien

lon

t Rd

Wat Pho

Trok Phan um

Sam Yot

Charoen Krung Rd

Tri Phe

g Rd

Wan

ai Sanam Ch

Thai

ng R

Trok

ya Si

Lua

iph

Soi Phra

Wat Saket

Muang Rd

Rommaninat Park

Soi Sa So ng Soi Long Tha

Phan Fah Leelard

Wisu t

Saranrom Park

Soi Mahannop 2

Ratchabophit

Wat Ratchabophit

Soi S iricha i2 Soi S iricha i1

Soi Sirip at

Ti Thon

Khlong Lot

Saranrom

Trok Sukha 2

Rat

Bumrung Rd

Wat Suthat

Trok Sukha1

ng Rak

Wat Ratchanatdaram

mran

Una n Rd Siri Phka ong Rd

aitri Rd

Wat Ratchapradit

Damro

g Tai

Soi Sa

Giant Swing

uang Rd

Rd an Saw on h k Na Lan Luang Rd

Klan

Bor

Tanao Rd

Buranasat Rd

Trok Nava

City Hall

Phraeng Nara

noen

Sin

Mahanno

Bumrung M

Kalayana M

Grand Palace

Phraeng Phuthon

Wat Phra Kaew

Dam

Wat Ratchanatdaram

m Trok

Khru

Maha C

Lak Mueang Rd

Democracy Monument

ang Tai

on Rd

Na Phra Lan Rd

Trok

g Nuea

Tro

Fuang Nakh

Na Hap Phoei

e Rd Rachine g Rd Atsadan

noen Klan

Klang

noen Kl

Bunsiri

Ratcha

Soi Silipako

Soi Dam

noen

Trokat T hep Sath T hid ien a Ra

Damno

Sanam Luang

Pra cha T

Ch ae Tr ok Ka i

Rd en Nai

at Rd ra Th

n Rd

Na Ph

Maharat Rd

ake Khlo ng Lo t

S g oi ra BangSamse Su n Wat me Lamp 2 n R hu Bowonniwet d ViHara

Soi Dam

Trok

lon

Silpokaorn University

Chao Phraya

a Dam

Cha

Tha Chang

osa

n Tu

Wat Mahathat

Kha

R lao

K in

Amulet Market

tt Bu

sa Ka

Wang Lang

ais

ok Tr

Phra

Maharaj

National Arts Gallery

iW or

Ratch

Thammasart University

Wat Chana Songkhram

tP de m So ge id

Br Dua

lao

National Theatre

Railway

ttr

National Museum

Wat Rakhang

R oi

ink

11 Thonburi

ak kr a

aP hr

Khlong Bangkok Noi

Thonburi Railway

Ati

d tR

Phra Atith

a hr

asa

de m So

lao

hip ata i

K in 12

aP Phra Pin Klao Bridge N

d Rd R ng em ua as kL gK Lu run K

hr Wat Saodung

Rajchawongse

M AY/J U N 2019 | 107

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

May 3

INTERNATIONAL SAUVIGNON BLANC DAY New Zealand’s Wine country, Marlborough celebrates this day as they are renowned as a prolific goodvalue Sauvignon Blanc wine producer. For more information, visit www.wine-marlborough.co.nz

May 9

WORLD MOSCATO DAY The United States celebrates their favourite dessert wine on this day every year for three reasons: Moscato being a pop culture staple, the sweetness of Muscat grape especially when paired, and the wine being one of the fastest-growing alcoholic beverages in the country. For more information, visit www.nationaltoday.com/ national-moscato-day

May 16

OFFICIAL MIMOSA DAY American cocktail enthusiasts celebrate this sparkling drink consisting of equal parts brut champagne and orange juice with activities like brunch, experimenting with other fruit juice, and even creating nonalcoholic substitutes. For more information, visit www. nationaltoday.com/national-mimosa-day

May 23

NATIONAL CHARDONNAY DAY Founded by Rick Bakas, it is annually celebrated on the Thursday before Memorial Day in the United States. For more information, visit www.travellingcorkscrew.com.au

June 8

NATIONAL ROSÉ DAY The second Saturday in June is known as National Rosé Day. Bodvár House of Rosés, a rosé house specialising in rosé wines from France submitted the date to be approved by the registrar of National Day Calendar in October 2014. For more information, visit www.nationaldaycalendar.com/ national-rose-day-second-saturday-in-june

June 21

LAMBRUSCO DAY Lambrusco grapes originate from four zones in EmiliaRomagna and one in Lombardy, mainly around central Modena, Parma, Reggio-Emilia, and Mantua. It is slightly sparkling young red wine. For more information, visit www.lambruscofest.com/festa 1 0 8 | M AY / J U N 2 0 1 9

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