october 2012 100 baht
Publisher’s letter As you can see from our front cover, this month we feature pictures of a man in a dress. However, before you accuse us of scraping the proverbial barrel, rest assured it’s not just any man in a dress, but Maeban Mee Nuad: the Facebook sensation. For his almost 50,000 followers, this 22-year-old student’s pictures of him posing in drag around Bangkok and other locations around the Kingdom have brought a welcome dose of humour to their newsfeeds. To see why, head to page 50. There’s an especially high number of indoor events, namely concerts and theatre productions, lined up for this month, which is handy considering that the rainy season is reaching its crescendo (and many of our ill-drained streets doubling up as streams). Other ways you might want to dodge a dousing include the humungous Thai Trends, an ambitious retrospective of local art at the BACC; and Yunomori, a Japanesestyle bathhouse where you’ll still get wet, but in a stress-relieving and very naked fashion. Both, as well as the replacement for the original branch of Crepes & Co restaurant, are reviewed in our City Pulse section.
TXT
Elsewhere, we continue to champion local art with a profile of one of darlings of the scene, 28-year-old painter Lampu Kansanoh, and her riotous caricatures of earthy Thai people. We also speak to Narawan ‘Kyo’ Pathomvat, the founder and director of The Reading Room, one of the city’s most inviting and diverse reading spaces. In our Snapshots section, we also welcome new columnist Tom Vitayakul. Over the coming months, this worldly bon vivant will be discussing what it is to Thai in the 21st century. Over in our always nicely bloated dining section, we scarf quality Thai food at Baan Rub Rong; get surprised by the upscale Isan cuisine at basil; and enjoy a night of steak and cigars at new Soi Ari eatery Wholly Cow. We also check out new dessert shops, venture down backstreets in search of streetfood, and get a lesson in how to cook Thai beef salad, yam nua, from our resident chef Saiyuud ‘Chom-Poo’ Diwong. Speaking of food, many food stalls across town will go veggie later this month for the Chinese Vegetarian Festival, a tradition most famous for the gruesome parades that take place down on Phuket sland (see p.30). If heading down there to see people walking around with razors and metal skewers hanging through their lips doesn’t appeal, our other travel suggestion this month is Umphang, a district in the north home to the country’s most impressive waterfall. Please don’t forget that all this – plus the 101 archive and extras that didn’t make the print edition – can be found online at www.bangkok101. com. A couple of clicks is all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
oc t ober 2 0 1 2
What is Bangkok 101? Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in weighty, dated guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Contributors
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr. Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat Bangkok-born but internationally-bred, Dr. Tom Vitayakul has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveler and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post’s the Magazine, and has also helped to edit several books on Thai subjects such as Bangkok Found and Architecture in Thailand. Very Thai author philip cornwel-smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia. Food and travel writer howard richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. British-born writer-artist steven pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not musing, he is often found travel writing.
managing editor
Max Crosbie-Jones art director
Tawan Amonratanasereegul editorial assistant
Adul Waengmol Chaweitporn Tamthai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Annette Heile, Scott Coates, Julia Chinnock, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Leo Devillers, Korakot Punlopruksa, Steven Pettifor, Howard Richardson, Noy Thrupkaew, Cassandra Beckford contributing photographers
Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit director of sales & marketing
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi
director of business development
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon director of digital media
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, korakot (nym) punlopruksa believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration and GM.
ava i lable t o b u y at:
Nofel Ait Ouyahia
administrative asssistant
Peeraya Nuchkuar circulation
Pradchya Kanmanee published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd Bangkok 10330 T 02-252-3900 | F 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com
© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
bangkok101.com
Table of COntents city pulse
food & drink
8 metro beat 12 hot plates: crepes & co. 14 exhibition focus: thai art through the ages 16 bathing in the buff 18 very thai 19 chronicle of thailand 20 tom’s two satang
57 food & drink news 58 meal deals 59 restaurant reviews: baan rub rong, basil, wholly cow 63 sweet treat: pause 2 play 64 eat like nym 66 cooking with poo 67 restaurants 71 bangkok vegetarian festival 74 wine review
Sightseeing
nightlife
22 historic homes 22 shrines 23 temples 24 museums 26 parks & flora 27 suan rot fai park 28 day trip: ancient siam (muang boran)
77 one month in bangkok 78 the alchemist 79 levels 80 clubs 81 hotel bars & clubs 82 bars with views 83 bars 85 live music 86 jazz clubs 88 pub review: the londoner
S n a p s h ot s
t r av e l 30 phuket vegetarian festival 32 upcountry now 34 hotel deals 36 upcountry escape: out in umphang
a r t s & c u lt u r e 42 exhibition highlights 44 artist profile: lampu kansanoh 46 in-space 49 reading & screening 50 photo feature: dressing up with maeban mee nuad
shopping
90 new collection: life in mono by greyhound 92 unique boutique: paul’s antiques 96 jatujak market 97 jj gem: jipata antiques
wellness
98 massage & spa
communit y
100 making merit: second chance bangkok
reference 102 getting there 104 maps 112 my bangkok
on the cover:
Facebook sensation Maeban Mee Nuad strikes a typically coquettish pose in Bangkok’s Siam Square area. oc t ober 2 0 1 2
H o t el Par t ners
CITY PULSE
metro beat
Theatre There’s a Thai theatre production of the Broadway hit musical Miss Saigon playing with English subtitles at the Muangthai Rachadalai Theatre (Esplanade Shopping Centre, Ratchadapisek Rd) from October 3-21 . Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com) has tickets from B500-B2,800. B-Floor Theatre (089-167-4039) stages a contemporary show this month based on the 1996 SEA Write awardwinning short story collection The Other Land by Kanokphong Songsomphan. The performances, set against the backdrop of violence in southern Thailand, focus on four of the stories, ‘Ghost in the House’, ‘On Coliseum Street’, ‘Homeland’, and ‘The Cat of Bu Kre Krue Saw’. They run nightly from October 5-7 and 12-14 at 8pm. A matinee on October 6 , at 2pm, is followed by a discussion with the director and activists and artists from the South. The shows, which have English subtitles, are part of the Diverse Arts Festival 2012 at the Pridi Banomyong Institute (Sukhumvit Soi 55, 086787-7155). Tickets are B400. For more information visit www.bfloortheatre.com.
Araya ‘Chompoo’ Hargate plays a social climbing home-wrecker in Reya the Musical , based on the hit TV soap Dok Som Si Thong, at Aksra Theatre (8/1 Soi Rangnam, 02-6778888, www.aksratheatre.com) until October 7. The novelist Taitao Sucharitkul wrote the script, reworking her original, and her son, Bangkok Opera director Somtow Sucharitkul, wrote the songs. Get tickets (B1,000-3,000) from Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). This year is the 40th anniversary of the
Bangkok Community Theatre (www.bct-
th.org), which celebrates with a production of The Country Wife at the British Club (189 Surawong Rd, 02-234-0247, www. britishclubbangkok.org) from October 10-13 . The bawdy Restoration comedy follows themes of sexual freedom, double standards and hypocrisy. Tickets (B800) are available from bctcountry@gmail.com or 081-937-3600. Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck and Goofy head Disney Live! Mickey’s Rockin’ Road Show, at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, www.impact. co.th) from October 18-21 . The show follows the heroes on a talent search by bus, with video projections on a giant screen used to create the illusion that the bus is travelling, sometimes underwater and floating through clouds. On the journey they encounter other characters such as Cinderella, Buzz Lightyear and Woody from Toy Story. Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com) has tickets priced B900-B2,000). 8 | O c t ober 2 0 1 2
h owa r d Richardson
by
Festivals The 14th International Festival of Dance & Music continues at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 02-247-0028) until October 14 . The month opens with 120 dancers and 72 musicians in performances of Swan Lake by the Staatsballett Berlin on October 2 and 3 (B1,000-B4500). On October 5 , there’s a large format screening of the BBC’s celebrated natural history documentary Planet Earth , accompanied by an 80-piece orchestra (B700-B3,500), and the Swiss illusionist Peter Marvey takes the stage on October 9 and 10 (B700-B3,000). Closing out the festival are Limon Dance Company, from New York (October 12 , B700-B2,200) and Tango Legends by Mariela Maldonado and Pablo Sosa (October 14 , B700-B2,500). Tickets and the full programme are available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com).
Film The next film in the Cinema Diverse programme at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (939 Rama I Rd, 02-2146632, www.bacc.or.th) is Nino (Philippines), showing with English subtitles on October 20. All screenings in this monthly-ish series start at 5pm, followed by a Q&A session with director, cast, and/or crew member.
Music Percussionists from Asia and the west unite for Cracking Bamboo, described as an intercultural dialogue between traditional Southeast Asian and modern western percussion instruments. The festival presents a week of workshops, ending with a concert on October 5 at Mahidol University, Salaya. The Goethe Institut (18/1 Soi Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1, 02-287-0942, www.goethe. de/bangkok) offers a shuttle bus (B100) from the city to the venue. Entrance is free. bangkok101.com
Pop & Rock
Exhibitions
Moonstar Studio 8 (701 Ladprao Soi 80, 02539-3881, www.moonstarstudio.co.th) pulls off yet another fine gig with the respected UK band Keane blowing off steam on October 4 . Tracks from the latest album Strangeland, including the singles ‘Silenced By the Night’ and ‘Disconnected’, should figure strongly along with older stuff like ‘Crystal Ball’ and ‘Somewhere Only We Know’. For tickets (B1,800) contact We Booking (02-900-9999, www.we-booking.com). The voice of Atif Aslam has graced many a Bollywood film, and now he’s performing live in Bangkok at the Centara Grand Convention Centre (CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd, 02-1006255, www.centarahotelsresorts.com) on October 6. Also on stage are DJ Zubair, from Dubai and local Indian stars Xunny Dey, Cactus Terrain and Strange Idea. Tickets are B1,950-B5,500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). A feast of top local pop-rockers tune up at the Bangkok Music Marathon at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-5045050, www.impact.co.th) on October 20. The music starts at noon from bands such as Blackhead, Big Ass, Room 39 and The Yers. The full line-up and tickets (B500-B1500) are both at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). Steve Vai and Eric Clapton have both apparently said the best guitar player they’ve ever seen is Tommy Emmanuel , who plays at the Scala Theatre (Siam Square Soi 1, 02-251-2861) on October 28 . There’s a meet and greet at 6pm, followed by a warm up set from some of Thailand’s rising acoustic guitarists, before Emmanuel takes the stage from 7.30pm-10pm. Tickets are B1,000-B2,500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). For more details head to www.dotime.co Adam Levine will bang out hits like ‘This Love’ and tracks from the new album Overexposed when Maroon 5 play Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, www.impact.co.th) on October 8 . Support comes from The Cab. If you haven’t already got a ticket you may be out of luck, but they are priced B1,000-B4,500 at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). The “sun drenched riffs, kaleidoscopic rhythms and hazy lyrics” of Beach Fossils arrive at Nakarin Theatre (325 Srinagarindra Rd, Hua Mak, 086-888-6121) on October 19 . The New Yorkers sound, which is described as lo-fi surf rock, will resonate from 6pm through tracks like ‘Daydream’, ‘Vacation’ and ‘Lazy Day’. Tickets are B1,200 (early bird B1,000 until Oct 17). There’s more on the band at www.beachfossils.com. bangkok101.com
The Japan Foundation Thailand is one of the promoters of Always Prepare: Living with Changes at the Thailand Creative & Design Centre (TCDC, Fl 6 Emporium Shopping Complex, 622 Sukhumvit 24, 02-664-8448, www.tcdc.or.th) presents until January 6. The exhibition aims to share creative ideas on how best to survive disasters, looking at their effects on the city, the community and people. Open Tue-Sun from 10.30am-9pm. Very Thai , the candy-hued tome on everyday popular culture that we serialise each month, has gone large format with an outdoor exhibition on the paved pedestrian area in front of Zen Department store (4/5 Rajdamri Road). According to author Philip Cornwel-Smith, the free display features blown-up photographs – some new, some from the book – by collaborator John Goss, Dow Wasiksiri and Austin Bush as well as himself. The exact dates are unclear but it should run into November, if not beyond.
Cl assical Korean Ji-Yong, the youngest ever pianist to win the New York Philharmonic Orchestra Young Artists Competition, plays a programme including Bach’s Partita No. 1 in B flat major; Beethoven’s Sonata No. 21 in C major, Op. 53 ‘Waldstein’; and Chopin’s Nocturne: Op. 9, No. 2 in E flat major at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 02-247-0028) on October 20. Tickets are B400-B2,000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com).
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 9
CITY PULSE
metro beat
Comedy International comedians land in Bangkok for the Punchline Comedy Show at Sundowner’s Bar, in the Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel (199 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-261-9000, www.imperialhotels. com) on October 26 and 27. The three stand-ups are Mickey Hutton, who’s “hilarious, cheeky and irreverent”, according to the Sunday Times; Eddy Brimson (“This guy is funny. Really funny,” Time Out) and the “effortlessly funny” ( Three Weeks Magazine) Marcus Ryan. Light meals and snacks are available at pub prices. Tickets are B1,500 (early bird B1,200 until October 10). Call the promoters, The Barbican (02233-4141, www.thebarbicanbangkok.com) for details.
Sport Runners will clamber up 61 storeys to the rooftop Vertigo grill in the 14th Vertical Marathon at the Banyan Tree Bangkok (21/100 Sathorn Tai Rd, 02-679-1200, banyantree.com) on October 14 . It’s over a thousand steps to the top, but you’ll raise money for charity and possibly win a prize presented by HRH Princess Soamsawali. Registration (B350) is open until October 9 at www.goadventureasia.com/VER/verreg.htm.
Cr afts The next ThaiCraft Fair (02-676-0637) is in the CCT Building (328, Phayathai Rd, BTS Ratchathewi, 02-214-6000) from 10am-3pm on October 20. It sells products, all at fixed prices, from crafting communities around the country, including silver jewellery from Karen hill tribes and Surin silversmiths, in Isaan. There will also be workshops where you can produce your own fabric art and greetings cards, plus food and coffee stalls. ThaiCraft supports local communities whose skills might otherwise disappear. There’s more information at www.thaicraft.org. French embroiderer Elisabeth Roulleau, who has conceived haute couture
embroidery for fashion houses including Hermès, Chanel and Dior, presents workshops at the Alliance Française (29 Sathorn Tai Rd, 02-670-4200, www.alliance-francaise.or.th) from October 29-November 3 . The three workshop options are traditional embroidery (October 29-31, B6,500), haute couture (November 1-3, B7,900) and advanced embroidery (October 30-November 3, B8,100). Materials are included except for the advanced class. The workshops will be conducted in French, English and Italian.
Wellness The Oriental Spa, at the Mandarin Oriental hotel (48 Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000, www. mandarinoriental.com/ bangkok) welcomes Japanese Kiatsu special-
Books The new art bookshop Hardcover: The Art Book Shop opened permanently last month on floor 3 of the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (939 Rama I Rd, 02-214-6632, www.bacc.or.th). Their original pop-up shop in front of Whittard Café on the 2nd Floor Atrium, CentralWorld will remain in place until December 31. They promise a “unique selection” from leading publishers aimed at both the Thai and international community. Peep inside the covers at www.facebook.com/hardcoverartbook.
Mixed Arts Electric Neon Lamp, Ten To Twelve and Spoonfulz are among the gaggle of indie bands at Happening @ House 3 , a music, movie and art fair at House RCA (Fl 3, RCA Plaza, 02-641-5177, www. facebook.com/houseRCA) on October 13 . The 2010 Cannes winner Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives will be among the films. The action starts at 11am. 1 0 | O c t ober 2 0 1 2
ist Kaoru Kawarabuki
as resident specialist from October 17-November 11 . She’s available for consultation in this shiatsu-inspired gentle manipulation technique daily except Mondays and Tuesdays.
Art Feted as one of Thailand’s biggest ever exhibitions, Art in the Ninth
Reign: Thai Trends from Localism to Internationalism continues
in honour of HM King Bhumibol’s 84th birthday year at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (939 Rama I Rd, 02-214-6632, www. bacc.or.th) until November 4 . The works, created by 300plus artists over the seven decades of the king’s reign, cover themes including experimentation, socio-political struggle, and abstraction and individualism. There are also artist talks and educational displays. bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 1
CITY PULSE
hot plates
Crepes & Co C
repes & Co in Sukhumvit Soi 12 had been around so long it was easy to take for granted, at least until the popular venue became another victim of the developers. But now they have another town house on Langsuan from which to serve their crepes and homey Mediterranean dishes. The spacious open plan room has an open kitchen, thick, blond wood pillars and beams, and sofas and armchairs in the centre to lend a living room ambiance. Large windows all around give good natural daylight and at night the place is brightly, but softly lit with standing lamps and ceiling spots. One of the warm chocolate coloured walls is lined with a sideboard and shelves of ornaments, and broad-based wooden high-chairs for kids enhance the familyfriendly atmosphere.
1 2 | O c t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
Regulars will be happy that this latest branch retains the famous all-day-every-day brunches (B490++); in fact Crepes & Co still has largely the same menu developed after it opened in the mid-1990s. The star attraction crepes have solid support in Greek, Moroccan and Spanish dishes such as moussaka, tajines and gambas pil-pil. Moroccan starters include a pair of deep-fried, pastry-filled dishes: briouattes (six triangles with beef, rice, cinnamon and a touch of saffron, B185++) and pastilla (three sweet parcels dusted with icing sugar containing shredded chicken, honey and nuts, B190++). Both have clean, oil-free, crispy shells and come with the spicy relish harissa. Among the large range of sweet and savoury crepes (B120-B345++) are standard French such as Suzette and international choices like Portugaise, massaman, and Tintin (B245++), which blends crispy and creamy saltiness through bacon and feta with a faint oregano finish. bangkok101.com
Wash them down with traditional apple cider (B140++/ glass, B660++/bottle) or something from the short wine list (B950-B1,950++, B175++/glass), then have a blazing end with crepes calvados (B335++), filled with sautéed apples and rum raisin ice cream flambéed in calvados at your tableside. You can park free in CentrePoint, opposite on Soi 1, and if you fancy nothing on the menu, you can even design your own crepes.
เครปส์ แอนด์ โค หลังสวน ซ.1
getting there
Crepes & Co [map4 / j7] 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1 | 02-652-0208 | www.crepesnco.com Mon-Sat 9am-11pm, Sun 8am-11pm. oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 3
CITY PULSE
Y
exhibition focus
Thai Art through the Ages
ou’ll struggle to find a more grandiose title for an exhibition: Art in the Ninth Reign: Thai Trends from Localism to Internationalism. However this BACC exhibition, which everyone’s calling Thai Trends for short, at least has the ambition and scale to match its mouthful of a moniker. Featuring 300 works from public and private collections, the organisers are calling it the biggest exhibition of Thai modern art ever. For some people, those who criticise the Thai art world’s fixation with neo-traditional Buddhist themes most likely, that could be a terrifying prospect. After all, how many romanticised daubings of monks and temple iconography can one person take? Truth be told, though, while the “connectedness” between Thai artists and Buddhism is explored up on the 7th floor, Thai Trends is more than just a look back at the preoccupation that has held it back in the eyes of many. Much more. Curated by influential art historian Apinan Poshyananda, it’s a sweeping retrospective of Thai art during His Majesty’s almost seventy year reign, from just after World War II right up to the present. Works by all the major players are here – the revered national artists, the internationally lauded, the mavericks, the hip and the forgotten. 1 4 | O c t ober 2 0 1 2
Judging by our experience and those of people we spoke to, you won’t enjoy all of it, but you’ll definitely enjoy large parts of it. Or, as Gregory Galligan, the founder of the Thai Art Archives, an independent archive and knowledge hub based at the BACC, puts it, “there is something for everyone, but at the same time, it will be criticised for failing to satisfy every expectation. That’s the nature of historical surveys – an overly ambitious format that begs rethinking each time we do one.” Though overwhelmingly positive and keen to point out that the Thai Art Archives have been “cheering from the sidelines”, Galligan goes on to say that he finds the way Thai Trends is arranged a little confused. “It seems to want it both ways,” he says, “dispensing with the traditional chronological format in favour of thematic sections, yet at the same time, it provides a timeline of history that stretches between three floors of the museum. Let’s hope that the catalog, promised by year’s end, is full of impeccable scholarship.” We agree with him. While the walls of the lower floors get you in a linear frame of mind, that approach is abandoned as soon you enter the seventh to ninth floor gallery spaces. No deal-breaker, but it is disorientating. bangkok101.com
Highlights will depend on your own artistic impulses. On the seventh floor, colourful works by hip young blood such as Lampu Kansanoh and Alex Kidd, whose street art inspired by his three-year old toddler sold out at the opening night of his latest studio exhibition, sit across from sombre works by the likes of titan Tawan Duchanee and Anupong Chantorn. This dizzying juxtaposition results from putting two themes head-to-head in the same room: that slippery concept ‘Thai-ness’ and the inspiration of Buddhism. Up on the eighth, works by political firebrands such as Vasan Sitthiket, Manit Sriwanichpoom and Proxy, an anonymous collective born out of the debris of the 2010 red shirt unrest, breath the same rarefied air as the surrealists. Nearby, space is devoted to abstract paintings and installations, while the ninth and final floor is split between international acclaim garnering works (including installations by Navin Rawanchaikul, Surasi Kusolwong and Sutee Kunavichayanont), and those concerned with gender, namely feminism and homosexuality. Rare exhibition posters, many of them works of art in themselves, line the concave walkways between floors; and scattered here and there is the odd piece by expat artists, a welcome addition that acknowledges that foreigners have and continue to contribute to Thai artistic discourse. For those interested in art patronage and how bangkok101.com
Thailand’s own convoluted version of it works, the Social Space and Patronage section, tucked behind the baggage storage area on the fifth floor, is also worth a look. Do you walk out with an understanding of the key turning points, defining moments and artistic watersheds and how all they fit together? That depends on what you bring to Thai Trends, but certainly one visit is not enough if you want to grapple with all the questions raised and come to understand Thai’s arts torturously complex narrative. You could even justify a third or even fourth visit if you attend some of the related programming accompanying the exhibition’s run – seminars and talks, etc. “All in all, it’s a show not to be missed,” says Galligan, “and an opportunity for everyone to make ‘new discoveries’ and to reconsider their acquired assumptions.”
บางกอก อาร์ท แอนด์ เคาเจอร์ พระราม 1
Art in the Ninth Reign: Thai Trends from Localism to Internationalism Until November 4 getting there
BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) [MAP4 /B4] 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th | BTS National Stadium oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 5
CITY PULSE
Bathing in the Buff Just when you thought the city’s spa scene had seen it all, along comes Yunomori, a stylish wood and granite bathhouse retreat based on the Japanese hot spring, or onsen. A stark naked Max Crosbie-Jones investigates. Naked bathing is a way of life in Japan. It dates back centuries. Books have been written on the subject. It’s strange to think then, that while pretty much everything that can be imported wholesale from Japan to Thailand has been, the practice of bathing in the buff hasn’t... until now. A few weeks ago the ribbon was cut at Yunomori Onsen & Spa: a very slick pine wood and black slate bathhouse cum spa retreat that demands its patrons go nude. Once they’ve revealed all to the world (OK, the changing room), they’re then free to spend hours bubbling and soaking away in what the Japanese call onsen.
city version. “There’s also a second type called the super sentō. These are oversized public bathhouses with many types of bath – soda bath, natural onsen – as well as other facilities to enjoy such as spas, restaurants and bars, etc.” Onsen purists may disagree, but for most a super sentō still qualifies as an onsen if it sources its bath water from naturally heated hot springs, which is exactly what Yunomori does. “We have 3,000 litres of water from Ranong, a province well known for the purity of its natural spring water, stored beneath the building,” says Smith.
“The word onsen literally means hot springs,” says Smith Mekaroonkamol, Yunomori’s young founder and a regular visitor to the volcanically active country. “Usually it refers to the hot spring and the traditional facilities found around them out in the countryside.”
In the future, he hopes that Yunomori will be able to go one further and fill a niche being neglected by Thailand’s tourist authority. “I’d like us to promote the Kingdom’s hot springs by sourcing mineral water from around the country,” he says. “Hopefully our customers will soon get to bathe in water from places like Kanchanaburi and Chiang Mai.”
According to him, Yunomori, which literally translates as ‘hot water in the forest’, isn’t an onsen in the strictest, most traditional sense of the word but rather the souped up, inner-
Tourist-promoting water sourcing policies aside, Yunomori is really just a place to let off steam, Japanese-style. On paying the B450 fee (which gives you unlimited one day
1 6 | O c t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
use), you’re handed a locker key, some bamboo slippers and directed to the separate men’s or women’s section. In the changing rooms, you then strip off, lock away your belongings, take a deep breath and emerge, as naked as a newborn, into the baths. The only things in your possession: your key and a small white towel. The first thing to do: make a beeline for the low stools and showers and give yourself a jolly good scrub, as entering the baths when dirty is frowned upon. The second: get over the self-consciousness inherent in walking around with your bits swinging about. How did this Gaijin do? Honestly, once I had twigged that it’s ok to use the white towel to “enhance your privacy”, I was soon swanning about as nonchalantly as my Japanese and Thai brothers. Once happy in your birthday suit, the bath hopping begins. We counted five, from the warm soda bath featuring water infused with CO2 to the near scalding jet bath and main onsen, both of which use the aforementioned Ranong mineral water. There’s also a semi open-air garden bath that the old Japanese gents like to have a good chinwag around, a couple of steam rooms and a cold bath to sink into when you’re feeling the heat. How did we feel after an hour or of soaking and steaming? Glowing, relaxed and super clean. If someone rubbed you with chamois leather after a session here you would squeak. But there’s a spiritually cleansing and even social dimension to bathing here too. Free of the attire, noise and accoutrements of modern life, the bathhouse is a peaceful, almost meditative realm where the barriers come down, mental clutter disappears and speech is kept to hushed whispers. The Japanese even have an expression for the totally legit form of bonding that goes on here, hadaka no tsukiai, or naked communion. Once you’ve soaked until you can soak no more, you’re free to head out and explore Yunomori’s extras at your leisure. Rest assured, there’s no need to put your clothes back on just yet. Guests flit between the on-site izakaya, the bar serving chilled Asahi, beauty salon and Gastro 1/6, the café by Bo and Dylan of Thai restaurant Bo.lan fame, while dressed in yukata, a colourful summer variation on the kimono. Though we looked more Tom Cruise in The Last Samurai (i.e. awkward) than Toshiro Mifune in Yojimbo bangkok101.com
(i.e. cool), it’s a fetching garment that you can even buy if you become attached to it. The above are all fairly standard features at super sentōs in Japan. However, according to Smith, Yunomori does one thing different: combines Japanese bathing culture with Thai massage culture. “The spa element is a common element in Japan too but there you’ll only find two or three treatment beds because the prices are so expensive,” he says. “Here we have a very cheap deal on spa prices.” He’s right: currently they’re offering an all-day onsen and one hour Thai massage package for B690 – a bargain when you consider that the massage alone can set you back almost as much, and you can hang loose here all day. No wonder droves of salarymen and slightly more reserved Thais are already peeling off here.
ยูโนโมริ ออนเซ็น แอนด์ สปา สุขุมวิท ซ.26 getting there
Yunomori Onsen & Spa [MAP3 / O9] Rear of A Square, Sukhumvit 26 | 02-259-5778 www.facebook.com/yunomorionsen Prices: onsen only B450; onsen + 1 hr Thai or foot massage B690; onsen + 90 min aroma body massage B800 oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 7
S N A P S H OT S
very thai
Sugar
A nation full of sweetness Thais seem disposed towards sweetness, in language, personality, sentiment, colour schemes and, crucially, food. Thai sugar consumption is about the highest per capita in the world. Perhaps that languid ability to doze in the most uncomfortable positions is down not only to heat, work or digesting sticky rice, but also due to bloodsugar energy mounting until the inevitable collapse. Thais balance flavours in both food and life. Flatterers are dubbed pak waan (sweet mouth) and dainty women sao waan (sweet maidens), in contrast to sassy sao priao (sour maidens), and people who are stingily khem (salty) or sorrowfully khom kheun (bitter).
Very Thai
River Books | with photos by
John Goss & Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995
Very Thai – Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any good book shop.
1 8 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
In food, this balance seems a model of moderation until you realise it means that sugar gets added to everything. Even savouries can’t be sweet enough. Curries are ladled with coconut milk, brown palm-sugar’s used everywhere, and even dried slivers of pork, beef or squid come saturated in syrup. Calorie counters look on aghast as the wok-handler clacks, tings, sizzles and scrapes a healthy stir-fry, then heaves in handfuls of sugar. Once at the table, most lunches get laced with lime, vinegar, chilli and fish sauce plus further granules of glucose. To keep the sugar rush going, a colour-enhanced rainbow of puddings and candies tempt, though often with a saline tang. Typical Thai desserts are cubed and wobbly, sliced from trays of gelatinous variations on the coconut/palm-sugar/bean theme, often combined with sticky rice. The sugar addiction also extends beyond traditional treats to newer imported nibbles, from sweetened movie popcorn to chocolate bars made waxy so they don’t melt. Tea, coffee and fruit shakes, too, receive glugs of evaporated milk, and a final swirl of sweetened condensed milk. Thai frames didn’t fatten into mass obesity until Western fast food captured the popular imagination and its franchises muscled out indigenous outlets. Now everything’s so over-sweetened you can literally inhale it. Just as vaporised chilli oil stings the eyes, atomised sugar with a plasticised aroma hangs in the air of convenience stores, cinema foyers, and mall kiosks flogging flavoured pretzels. You could almost cut this cloying cloud with a knife, and if you could it would make a nice Thai snack. bangkok101.com
chronicle of thailand
6 October 1976
Dozens slaughtered at Thammasat, government toppled Police and right-wing extremists unleash orgy of violence against students and demonstrators, military seizes power
Police, soldier and mobs of right-wing extremists stormed the campus of Thammasat University, beating, killing, and raping students hours before the military staged a coup, in one of the darkest days in Thai history. The country’s turbulent three-year experiment with democracy was over. The violence began just before dawn as police and military units, along with mobs of Red Gaurs, Nawapon and Village Scouts gathered outside the university. Their emotions whipped up by a photo they believed showed students hanging the Crown Prince in effigy, and Army radio chants of ‘kill them, kill them’, police and other began shooting into the university where students had been demonstrating against the return of Thanom Kittikachorn. Some students reportedly returned fire. The assault on the campus was spearheaded by police. The mobs poured in, unleashing their fury upon the students. Young people were dragged to Sanam Luang, beaten and hanged from trees to cheers and taunts. Right-wing fanatics mutilated bodies and burned unconscious victims alive on the Royal Field. Hundreds of surrendering students, including young women, were forced to strip to their waists and crawl before soldiers and police who kicked and beat them. Thammasat rector Dr Puey Ungphakorn, fearing police persecution, resigned and fled into exile. Officially, 46 died, although students claimed the true toll was far higher. Hundreds were wounded, and over a thousand arrested. At 6pm, state-run media announced a coup, a curfew, and the formation of a military council to run the country. The authorities describe the events at Thammasat as a student riot. bangkok101.com
Chronicle of Thailand
EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450
Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eye-witnessaccount of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced.
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 9
S N A P S H OT S
2 0 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
tom’s two satang
ToTwmo ’Ssatang
A
Join Bangkok-born but internationally-bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st century trends – in a light-hearted yet learned manner.
On Being Thai
m I Thai enough? What does it mean to be Thai in the 21st Century? I live in Bangkok and am of SinoThai descent but I am not able to speak Chinese. I went to a school founded by a French Missionary where we studied geometry and algebra in English. I write e-mails and reports in English. I speak Thai that is peppered with English words. It’s a habit caused by globalisation. But for some, it’s affectation. We use a “com-pew-dter,” drink “whine,” wear “yeens,” shop at “say-wen,” watch “tee-wee,” ride a “mor-dter-sai,” and say “o-kay.” Actually, there are Thai words for some of these too but no one uses them. They just sound awkward.
As for that cliché of the Thai trait, I don’t smile all the time because I am not delirious or trying to promote world peace. Nonetheless, I still like the sanuk (fun), sabai (comfort), and saduak (convenient) concepts of living. They sum up Thais’ joie de vivre. As for Thai etiquette, being considerate or greng-jai, as we call it, plays an important part. However, though I do care for others’ feelings, I can be direct and forward when I need to be. For me, mai pen rai (it doesn’t matter) only works when it’s tolerable. Sometimes things do matter because they have consequences, so we can’t be easy-going all the time. That said, I try to let go of things like a good Buddhist. We Thais are a superstitious bunch. Most of our buildings have a sal phra phum (a small shrine or a spirit house) for the spirit of the land. Mostly it is in front of the house or the building but sometime it can be found in other areas. This belief stems from our Animistic background and is mixed with Brahmanism and Buddhism. Fortune-telling is also big business here. Astrology columns will never disappear from Thai magazines, unlike in the west. I used to consult these clairvoyants, but now seeking advice from a psychologist or a life coach seems more logical. I don’t go to temples for solace much these days either but I do visit them for architecture and art appreciation. One can pray or make merit anywhere. Dharma is within oneself. Many Thais also co-ordinate the colours of their clothing according to ancient Indian astrology for good luck. If it’s Monday, it must be yellow (the Thai colour for the Moon), for example. However, me personally, I don’t want to look like Tweety Pie.
bangkok101.com
Our names usually come from Sanskrit. Most of them are rather fancy and have mystical meanings. Good fortune, prestige, wealth, and grandeur seem to be popular ways for formal naming while nicknames take different routes. Cuteness, coolness and colour are just some of the themes and many are lifted from English. Have you heard of someone called Ice, Pink, or Tiny? These are common among the new generation who would greet you with a wad-dee, a shortened version of sawasdee (hello). While we’re on the subject, this word is also made-up. It is from Sanskrit and started to be used only seven decades ago. What is genuinely Thai, anyway? Things have to originate somewhere and sometimes they are just not from here. About taste, mine is eclectic. I like mixing things up. East-Meets-West is my style. I like wearing fisherman’s trousers with a shirt. It’s comfortable and suits the climate. I love Thai food, but not too spicy. Chilies aren’t from Thailand, anyway. They were brought from South America. So go easy on my palate. For me, fusion food was just a trend. Thais have fused various ingredients and culinary methods for centuries. We are good at adopting, adapting things, and making them our own. Copyright infringements did not concern us back then and, for some, not even now. I enjoy listening to certain types of Thai music, especially from the big-band era and Thai folk music, but I don’t have an ear for most modern Thai pop. Take me to watch a likay (Thai folk opera) or a lumdtad (Thai bantering singing and dancing) and I am happy. I also adore traditional Thai houses but dislike sitting on the floor and being un-air-conditioned when indoors. One can get cramps from staying in one position for a long period and it’s hot outside. I’d much rather sit on a chair in a nice cool room. So here I am writing about being Thai in English for Bangkok 101. I hope that my readers will learn more about Thai things while living or visiting our country. For the Thai readers among you, are you Thai enough?
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 2 1
S ightseeing
historic homes
shrine
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [map5 / H8]
ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall [map8 / F8]
Uthong Nai Rd, opp. Dusit Zoo Tue – Sun 10 am – 6 pm | B150 dress politely
Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam noen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V mounted on a horse that is still worshipped today.
19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-286-8185 Sat, Sun & Holidays 10 am – 5 pm, Mon – Fri by appt. only | B 50 / B 20 kids
Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture.
บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้
ERAWAN SHRINE [map4 / G5]
Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan BTS Chit Lom
Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which performs for a nominal fee.
พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ
พระที่นั่งอนันตสมาคม ถ.อู่ทองใน ดุสิต VIMANMEK MANSION [map8 / F8]
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [map4 / A3]
6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 www.jimthompsonhouse.com 9 am – 5 pm | B100 / B 50 students
American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them, and brimful with art and antiques he acquired during his many trips around Asia. Tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café. Ban Krua, the silk-weaving community he commissioned, is also nearby.
บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ
GANESHA SHRINE [map4 / G3]
139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd 02-281-1569 | 9:30 am – 4 pm | B100
Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd
The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom. Regular tours in English are held daily.
A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน
พระที่นั่งวิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสิต
TRIMURTI SHRINE [map4 / G3]
SUAN PAKKAD palace [MAP8 / K11]
Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 www.suanpakkad.com | 9 am – 4 pm | B100
A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd
If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30 pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน
วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี 2 2 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
TEMPLES
THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [map7 / D10]
Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094 8:30 am – 4:30 pm | B 400 incl. entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully
Bangkok’s most beloved temple (and top tourist site) is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782 , the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors. The highlight, though, is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the temple purposebuilt to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day.
พระบรมมหาราชวัง และ วัดพระแก้ว ถ.หน้าพระลาน (ใกล้สนามหลวง)
WAT PO (reclining buddha) [map7 / D12]
Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com 8am – noon; 1 pm – 9 pm | B100
The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16 th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage (see p.101).
วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน
WAT MAHATHAT [map7 / C8]
วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์
WAT SUTHAT & the GIANT SWING [map7 / H9]
Bamrung Muang Rd | 02-222-9632 9 am – 5 pm | B 20
An amulet market is situated near this 18 th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Courses on Buddhism are given in English.
Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
WAT ARUN [map7 / B13]
วัดสุทศั น์ ถ.บำ�รุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า
Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd Arun Pier | 02-465-5640 www.watarun.org | 8 am – 5 pm | B 20
วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำ�เจ้าพระยา
Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of China town to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.
Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 02-221-5999 | 9 am – 5 pm | free
วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง
Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at sundown.
WAT SAKET [map7 / L8]
Chakkraphatdiphong Rd 02-233-4561 | 7:30 am – 5:30 pm | B10
WAT RATCHANATDA [map7 / K8]
Mahachai Rd | 02-224-8807 9 am – 5 pm | free
This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multi-tiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.
วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร
WAT TRAIMIT [map6 / L3]
661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8 am – 5 pm | B 20
Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over 10 million US$ . The interesting Yaowarat Heritage Museum (p.27) is located on the floor beneath.
วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำ�โพง (เยาวราช) bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 2 3
S ightseeing
BANGKOKian museum
Museums – in town There’s a museum for every interest here – hundreds in fact. Here, some of our favourites, both in town and just outside it.
BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [map8 / L11, 12]
85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng), Ratchaprarop Rd 02-245-3008 | www.bangkokdolls.com Mon – Sat 8 am – 5 pm | free
Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
บ้านตุ๊กตาบางกอกดอลล์ ถ.ราชปรารภ
madame tussauds
Madame tussauds [map4 / C4]
6th F, Siam Discovery Center Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-658-0060 www.madametussauds.com/Bangkok/ 10 am – 9 pm | B 800 / B 600 kids / 15 % discount for online
Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe's famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women, famous monks, poets and statesmen. And once you’ve finished talking human rights with Aung San Suu Kyi, or admiring Angelina Jolie’s Khmer tattoo, there are lots of interactive games to stave off waxwork-fatigue too.
มาดามทุซโซ สยามดิสคัฟเวอรี่ ชั้น 6 MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP2 / E12]
26 F, Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-653-5555 www.tillekeandgibbins.com Mon – Fri 10 am – 4 pm / App. required for textile and computer collections In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international th
bangkokian MUSEUM [MAP5 / E3]
273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027 Sat & Sun 10 am – 4 pm | free
Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and ceremonial items.
พิพิธภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก ถ.เจริญกรุง 43 2 4 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
museum of siam
Museum of Siam [map7 / D13]
4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier 02-622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th Tue – Sun 10 am – 6 pm | free
A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and dreary text with pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20 th century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with a canon (a bit tasteless that one), and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance-stylings of the building itself, which was designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno.
พิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [map7 / C6]
5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang 02-224-1333 | www.thailandmuseum.com Wed – Sun 9 am – 4 pm | B 200 | no photo
law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it's open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals. While its well off-the-beaten track location means it doesn't see too many drop-in visitors, it's an eye-opening experience, one that would make even the thriftiest market-goer think twice.
Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam's main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed. Free tours by the Natonal Museum Volunteers group are given in English, French, German and Japanese and take place on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 9:30 am.
พิพิธภัณฑ์สินค้าปลอมและเลียนแบบ ถ.พระราม 3
พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ท้องสนามหลวง bangkok101.com
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [map7 / K7]
100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02-621-0044 www.nitasrattanakosin.com Tue – Fri 11 am – 8 pm; Sat, Sun & Holidays 10 am – 8 pm | B100
This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hardto-fathom history, arts, communities, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus. One highlight is the room showcasing Thai performing arts; another sheds light on the trade specialities of local shophouse communities. Up on the fourth floor there's also an observation balcony from which you can peer out over the area you now have a more in-depth grasp of.
นิทรรศน์รัตนโกสินทร์ ถ.ราชดำ�เนินกลาง ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [map7 / B4]
80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 02-424-0004 | 9 am – 5:00 pm B 30 / B100 photo / B 200 video
This collection of ornate royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996 .
พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์
Royal Barge Museum bangkok101.com
SIRIRAJ MEDICAL MUSEUM [map7 / A7]
Siriraj Hospital | 2 Prannok Rd Thonburi Railway Pier 02-419-7000-6363 | www.si.mahidol.ac.th Mon – Sat 9 am – 4 pm | B 40
Located on the west bank of the river, in Thailand’s oldest and most prestigious hospital, the Siriraj Medical Museum is chiefly an educational facility where trainee medical students come to take notes and harden their stomachs. However, fans of the macabre can also pay a visit. Of its many chilling displays, far and away the most famous is the crisped cadaver of Si Ouey, Thailand’s notorious child killer, stood in a phone booth. Other stomach-churning exhibits include the mummified remains of murder victims, and deformed human foetuses embalmed in formaldehyde. Best come before lunch, just to err on the safe side.
พิพิธภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศิริราช ถ.พรานนก YAOWARAT CHINATOWN HERITAGE CENTRE [map6 / L3]
Wat Traimit, 661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, Charoen Krung Rd |MRT Hua Lamphong | 02-225-9775 |Tue – Sun 8 am – 4:30 pm | B100 / B140 incl. visit to the Golden Buddha
For Bangkok’s Thai-Chinese the story of how their forefathers fled here on leaking junk ships and rose to become an affluent and fully integrated force in Thai society is likely familiar, having been drip-fed to them over the years by their elders. But for the rest of us, the Chinatown Heritage Centre is the next best thing, presenting an engaging history of Bangkok’s Chinese community and their bustling focal point, Yaowarat. Highlights include recreations of a leaking junk ship and bustling street market, a miniature model of Yaowarat during its Golden Age, and a room commemorating the community’s high-achievers. It's located within Wat Traimit temple.
ศูนย์ประวัติศาสตร์เยาวราช ถ.มิตรภาพไทย-จีน
yaowarat heritage centre
out of town ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [map1 / F6]
296/1 Sukhumvit Rd Samut Prakan province | 02-709-1644 www.ancientcity.com B 500 / B 250 kids / B1,500 private guide in English for 2 hours
Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-ofSiam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing. Teakwood, stone and brick abound; everything looks authentically aged; and amidst the scaled-down and life-size copies are lots of salvaged original buildings.
เมืองโบราณ จ.สมุทรปราการ THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP1 / E5]
94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya Nakorn Pathom province www.nfat.org | 02-482-2013-15 Sat & Sun tours: 10 am, noon, 3 pm; Mon – Fri: by appointment | Free
The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meager film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum – for free. Thai film fiends will love inching around this nook-filled two-storey space modeled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, projectors, props, costumes, posters and waxworks. Guides only speak Thai, so take a translator if possible.
พิพิธภัณฑ์ภาพยนตร์ไทย ถ.พุทธมนฑล สาย 5
ANCIENT SIAM oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 2 5
S ightseeing
lumpini park
parks – Flora LUMPINI PARK [map8 / K,L16]
Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Rd 5 am – 9 pm; cycling / skating 10 am – 3 pm free
The biggest and most popular slice of public space in Central Bangkok, Lumpini Park is 142 acres of trees and grass sewn together with wide, meandering concrete paths. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of its relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. A surprising number of animals also like it here – from turtles and giant monitor lizards, to flocks of crows and the occasional stray cat. Activities include taking a Swanshaped pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin and pumping iron at the outdoor gym, while live concert recitals and film screenings take place here during the cool season. There are entrances on each of its four sides, all of them open till 9pm, but the most impressive is the one at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, where a grand statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel.
สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4 ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ BANG KRACHAO [map1 / E5]
Bang Krachao, Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakan | 02-461-097 6 am – 8 pm | Free
It’s hard to believe that this oasis of lush orchards and mangroves is just opposite the concrete jungle of Klong Toey. Included within it is the 200-rai Suan Klang Central Park with a large pond where you can rent paddle boats for B30 . Or rent cycles for the same rate and ride a bike around the park then head down to the Bang Nam Pueng Floating Market.
บางกระเจ้า พระประแดง
bang krachao
Benjasiri park [map3 / L7]
Dusit zoo
SARANROM PARK [map7 / E11]
Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22 / 24 BTS Phrom Pong | 5am-9pm
Intersection of Rachini / Charoen Krung Rd Phra Nakhon | 5 am – 8 pm | free
Next to the Phrom Phong BTS Skytrain station and Emporium shopping mall, this is a great place to escape the Sukhumvit rat race – amble around lakes, find shade under a tree, or admire modern Thai sculptures.
This ‘green belt’ within the city is located opposite the Grand Palace, built in 1866 during the reign of Rama IV as a royal garden of the Saranrom Royal Palace. It is now a botanical garden and public park, featuring a glass house, and royal bugle pavilion.
สวนเบญจสิริ สุขุมวิท ซ.22 – ซ.24 JATUJAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS [map8 / M, N1, 2]
820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao 02-272-4358 | 5 am – 6:30 pm | free
These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some much-needed respite. Jatujak Park hosts a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a botanical garden.
สวนจตุจักรและสวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์ ถ.พหลโยธิน จตุจักร RAMA IX ROYAL PARK [MAP2 / K11]
Sukhumvit Soi 103, behind Seri Center Pravet | 02-328-1972 | 5:30am – 7 pm | B10
Bangkok's biggest park spans 200-acres and features a small museum dedicated to the King, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with soothing water features.
สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103 (หลังพาราไดส์ พาร์ค) ประเวศ ROSE GARDEN RIVERSIDE (Suan Sampram) [map1 / D5]
32 Phet Kasem Rd, Yai-Cha, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom Province | 03-432- 2544 www.rosegardenriverside.com 10 am – 4 pm | Garden B 50, Show B 500
Take an hour’s drive out from the city and explore this 70-acre property located beside the Ta Chine River, which includes a hotel resort, golf course, spa, organic farm and botanical gardens. The cultural shows here are as popular as the lush gardens.
สวนสราญรมย์ แยกราชินี ถ.เจริญกรุง
parks – Fauna BANGKOK BUTTERFLY GARDEN & insectarium [map8 / M2]
Suan Rot Fai Park | Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park 02- 272-4359 | Tue – Sun & Holidays 8:30 am – 4:30 pm | free
This dome-enclosed sanctuary not from JJ Market houses over 500 species of butterflies fluttering freely in the mazes of the landscaped gardens, with their wild flowers, canopied benches, ponds and waterfalls. Besides butterfly watching, visitors can picnic or rent a bicycle for around B 30. It's located within Suan Rot Fai Park, a great big park with open spaces as well as lotus ponds, playgrounds, and basketball and tennis courts.
อุทยานผีเสื้อและแมลงกรุงเทพฯ สวนรถไฟ ถ.กำ�แพงเพชร จตุจักร DUSIT ZOO [map8 / F8]
71 Rama V Rd, opposite Chitralada Palace 02-281-2000 | 8 am – 6 pm | B100 / B 50 kids
The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. There’s also a lake with paddle boats, and playgrounds that the kids can run wild in.
สวนสัตว์ดุสิต ถ.พระราม 5
โรสการ์เด้น ริเวอร์ไซด์ สวนสามพราน ถ.เพชรเกษม 2 6 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
parks
Suan Rot Fai Park This manic city of ours doesn’t get any quainter than Sundays at Suan Rot Fai. The sounds of kids playing, bicycle bells ring-ringing, footballs being booted fill the air. Located just north of the weekend market, Jatujak, this former golf-course owned by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) and State Railway of Thailand is 150 flat and grassy acres of shade-giving trees, sports facilities and fun activities – a real doozy of a park. It’s the one we hit when living here wears thin. Sport fanatics can blend in with the friendly locals in games of six-aside football, basketball, sepak takraw, kayaking or tennis whilst picnickers are welcome to bring food and drinks (no booze allow) and settle down in a lush spot. The shade of a tree is a popular one for many, especially young couples, but there are picnic desks and benches scattered about too. You can also chase the monitor lizards around a lake (paddle boat hire is just B30 an hour), or hit the driving range (B80). However, by far the most popular pastime is cycling along the wide walkways with a lane set aside especially for those on two wheels. A quaint bike with a basket for stashing your valuables and picnic in can be hired for a paltry B20 from one of the shops near the park entrance. And, once you get bored of racing your friends or shunting other cyclists onto the grass kerb, there are things to stop and see too. In the east corner of the park sits Bangkok’s only Butterfly Garden – a domed enclosure filled with hundreds of the graceful, many-hued flying creatures. There’s also a picturesque lotus pond to discover, various playgrounds, and a cafe next to the entrance. If the greenery and (relatively) clean air doesn’t bring peace of mind, there’s even a place where you try your hand at yoga, Tai Chi, giving alms and meditation. Located in a modern complex on the edge of the park, it’s called the Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives and pitches itself as a spiritual fitness and edutainment centre.
สวนรถไฟ ถ.กำ�แพงเพชร 3 bangkok101.com
getting there
Suan Rod Fai pARK [map8 / M, n1] Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd | BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park | 02-537-9221 5 am – 9 pm | free oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 2 7
S ightseeing
day trip
Ancient Siam (Muang Boran)
2 8 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
Only have a day to see the whole country? Fear not. Under an hour’s drive from the city, Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of its most precious palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into an easy to navigate, Siam-shaped plot of land. Sounds a bit tacky? Rest assured, despite the abundance of miniature and life-size replicas, this is not your average theme-park made of hollow plastic and fibre-glass. Its creator was a perfectionist who demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing. Tactile teaks, stones and real bricks abound; everything looks authentically aged; and amidst the replicas are lots of salvaged original buildings and creative sculptures. There is also space. Spread over 240 delicious green acres, the sheer size of the park makes for a peaceful place that is all but impossible to explore by foot. But this isn’t a problem as the park has smooth, meandering tarmac roads and a range of wheels for hire. Hop on a tram, hire a bicycle or drive your own car around for a small fee. Or, cooler still, cruise around in a golf cart (B200). Your journey through this sprawling, 3-D Thai history book dotted with idyllic streams and wooden bridges begins with you passing heritage sights from the country’s south, including the bulbous stupa from Nakhon Si Thammarat’s Phra Mahathat and Petchaburi province’s teak Tiger King’s bangkok101.com
Palace. Just one of many walk-in buildings, inside the latter is a Buddhist altar and collection of gilded scripture cabinets. Head north from here and the park fans out to the east, north and west in much the same way the country does. Highlights are many, but really the joy of Ancient Siam is in impulsively swerving in the direction of the next stupa statute, sala or shrine that catches your eye from above the tree tops and then going to investigate further. That said there are some not-to-misses. Wat Chong Kham is an original and unusual teak temple-monastery that once belonged to Northern Shan monks from Lampang; the Pavilion of the Enlightened a fictitious and heavily gilded construction that hovers over a lake to the West of the park; the Floating Market a wonderful evocation of what one would have looked like 150 years ago. Soak up the painterly scene over the good Thai grub at its restaurant. Another focal point is the Dusit Maha Prasart Palace, a simplified version of the one in the Grand Palace complex in Bangkok.
เมืองโบราณ จ.สมุทรปราการ getting there
ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [map1 / F6] 296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan province | 02-7091644 | www.ancientcity.com | B 500 / B 250 kids / B1,500 private guide in English for 2 hours oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 2 9
t r av e l
3 0 | O c t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
upcountry now!
t r av e l | x x x x x x x x x x x x x x
no pain, no gain
October 15 - 23 phuket vegetarian festival Away from its enticing sandy beaches, Thailand’s largest island hosts its own unique culture, combining Portuguese and local sea gypsy influences with a sizeable Thai Muslim population and a dash of Chinese tin-miner heritage. During the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar (October 15-23 this year), it is this Chinese influence that comes to the fore as tourists flock there to witness the century-old spectacle – and eat the food – accompanying the Phuket Vegetarian Festival. While this religious vegetarian festival, said to originate from the early 1800s, when a visiting Chinese opera troupe who had fallen sick made a full recovery after practicing God-pacifying ritual vegetarianism, sounds harmless enough, newcomers should prepare to be shocked. After opening with pole-raising rituals at shrines around the island, the festival hosts eye-poppingly gruesome street processions. These feature participants committing bloody acts of ritual self-mutilation such as climbing on ladders made of razor blades, piercing cheeks with steel skewers, or walking on hot coals. Known as ma song, these people are said to be “possessed” by the gods and are thought to be either fighting off coming doom by trying to extend their lives, or been chosen by the gods due to their superior moral qualities. To ward off evil spirits, unrelenting drumbeats and fireworks accompany their trance-like marches. Aside from these gruesome mind-focussing displays – shots of which make newspapers the world over – supplicants observe ten rules for the duration, including refraining from sex, alcohol, and, of course, meat. While you won’t be expected to follow their lead, one highlight definitely worth partaking in is the vegetarian food sold on the fringes of the processions – look for the stalls with yellow flags and Chinese or Thai script in red. The schedule for this year’s round of street processions is as follows: Sapam Shrine (Wed Oct 17), Samkong Shrine (Thu Oct 18), Ban Tha Rve Shrine (Fri Oct 19), Bang Neow & Cherng Thalay Shrine (Sat Oct 20), Jui Tui Shrine (Sun Oct 21), Kathu Shrine & Yokkekeng Shrine (Mon Oct 22), Sui Boon Tong Shrine (Tue Oct 23). Call the TAT, on 1672, for more details, and see www.phuketvegetarian.com for more background. bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 3 1
t r av e l
upcountry now!
■■Bathing Buddha Ceremony Buddhism plays an important role in Thailand. The same can be said about rivers, which have been an indispensable part of Thai life for centuries. The Bathing Buddha Festival, in the northern province of Petchabun, unites these two elements. Expect to see spectacular processions, cultural performances and the highlight and namesake of the event, the bathing of the main Buddha image from the provincial city’s Wat Traiphum temple in the local river, the Pah Sak, October by the governor. Petchabun is known as the ‘city of plants and crops’ and the ritual aims to keep it that way by inducing an abundant harvest. 1
2
3
4
15 5
6
■■Rap Bua Flower Ceremony For this photogenic ceremony unique to Samut Prakan province a large Buddha image is placed on a boat and floated down the town’s waterway, Khlong Samrong. Locals lining the banks then toss freshly cut lotus flowers (rap bua means ‘receiving lotuses’) onto the passing vessel to pay homage. This flower shower, staged to mark the end of Buddhist Lent, is rooted in a legend about an image of Buddha that was once seen floating down the river.
26-29
October
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
October
23-28
■■Swatch FIVB Beach Volleyball World Tour A world class volleyball beach tournament featuring participants from all over the globe. Usually it takes place at Karon Beach on Phuket, but this year the stadium will be set up on Bangsaen beach, 85km southwest of Bangkok, apparently to give volleyball fans from the big smoke a chance to catch the back-and-forth action. Over 50 teams from 21 countries are expected, and backing up the main event will be a PTT Schools Cup and PTT Beach Volleyball camp on the finals weekend, plus a large sponsor zone featuring booths, games and a beer garden. www.fivb.org
October
23-30
■■Illuminated Boat Festival Just before sunset each evening lines of regal, candleadorned barges will glide down the Mekong River in Nakhon Phanom province, spewing fireworks and eliciting gasps from onlookers as they go. An end of Buddhist Lent religious rite, the Lai Reua Fai (literally, the fire boat) festival also includes colourful street processions and cultural performances.
Source FIVB
3 2 | O c t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
■■Wax Castle Festival Up in deepest Isaan, Sakhon Nakorn province’s Wax Castle Festival sees a grand procession of castles carved in beeswax being paraded through town to celebrate the end of, you guessed it, Buddhist Lent. Traditional Issan performances and folk dances also feature. It is also accompanied by some very popular long boat races with a trophy from HRH Princess Sirindhorn up for grabs.
■■Buffalo Race Festival 2012 You should be able to guess what goes on at this uniquely Thai event, as jockeys and their water buffalo scamper towards the finish line. Chonburi province’s annual Buffalo Races takes place near City Hall and coincides with the end of Khao Pansa , or Buddhist Lent. Beauty pageants and a healthiest buffalo contest also take place. October
26-30
26-1
October
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
30
bangkok101.com
27
28
29
30
31
Until
October
■■End of Buddhist Lent October 30 heralds the end of Buddhist Lent, the three-month ‘rains retreat’ during which monks remain in their monasteries to avoid trampling rice plants on their daily walks, a practice that dates from the Buddha’s time. Marking the end of their confinement and the rainy season, Awk phansa finds people visiting their local temple to pray, monks being offered new robes, and is most notable for the nationwide torrent of festivals, some solemn, others fun-filled.
November
December
■■Naga Fire Ball Phenomenon Between 6pm and 9pm on the final night of Buddhist Lent, fireballs rise from the Lao side of the Mekong river before disappearing. Legend has it that this display in the northeast’s Nong Khai province is naga (mythical serpents) shooting fireballs into the sky to welcome Buddha back from Tavatimsa heaven. Others think them the result of methane gas bubbling up from the river bed, while a Thai TV program even posited that they might be the work of trigger-happy Lao soldiers. All anyone knows for sure is that the best place to observe the Naga Fireballs phenomenon will be the riverbank village of Phon Phisai. Mut Mee Guesthouse (042-460717, www. mutmee.com) in Nong Khai is laying on a boat trip, including lunch and dinner and one glass of wine, for B2,700 per person.
9
■■The Travelling Soul: In Search of Northern Thai Spirit For an enriching break from templehopping in Chiang Mai’s Old Town, wander into the grounds of the Tamarind Hotel to catch this photo exhibition by leading Thai photographer Chamni Thipmanee. Taken over the past decade, the series of striking portraits, landscapes and scenes of everyday Northern life opens with an introduction by award-winning SEA Write Poet Chiranan Pitpreecha and is accompanied by excerpts from interviews with Chiang Mai natives and long-term residents. www.tamarindvillage.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 3 3
t r av e l
hotel deals
■■Web Saver Packages
Until Oct 26
Centara Hotel & Convention Centre Udon Thani 277/1 Prajaksillapakhom Road, Muang, Udon Thani | 042-343-555 http:// centarahotelsresorts.com/WebSaver.asp
Renovated and reopened back in December, the Centara Hotel & Convention Centre Udon Thani is currently offering 30% off its web rates for superior rooms. Rates for the city-centre hotel are now B1,330 per night with breakfast included. Fine print: rates are subject to 10% service charge and 7% government tax and are on the basis of two adults sharing with up to two children aged under 12.
■■Opening Room Rates
Until Oct 31
Amari Hua Hin Hotel 117/74 Takiab Road, Nongkae, Hua Hin | 032-616-600 http://www.amari.com/huahin/ The latest addition to Amari’s expanding portfolio of Thai properties is keen to lure you in with room rates of B2,900++ a night. Book in at this 223-room resort, which promises “elegant resort style accommodation combined with exclusive services and facilities,” and you’ll be one of the first to experience the new look and feel of Amari since it rebranded. Plus, it’s all only a two to three hour drive away.
Until Oct 31
■■Live the boutique life
Nova Hotel & Spa Pattaya 80/167, Nongprue, Banglamung, Chonburi | 038-725-999 http://centarahotelsresorts.com/nvp/ The Nova Hotel & Spa Pattaya, part of Centara’s Boutique Collection, is making “a long and luxurious stay affordable” this month by slashing its room rates by almost half. Through October they’re offering a deluxe room for only B1,650++ per night for two persons, including breakfast, which is 45% cheaper than normal.
■■Special Introductory Rates
Novotel Hua Hin-Cha Am Beach Resort & Spa 854/2 Burirom Road, Cha Am Beachfront, Petchaburi, Hua Hin-Cha Am 76120 CHA AM | 03-270-8300
Until Oct 31
Novotel has just opened a new 243 room resort between Hua Hin and Cha Am: the Novotel Hua Hin-Cha Am Beach Resort & Spa. There are four food and beverage outlets to choose from, and guest rooms all have sea views apparently. If you fancy giving it a whirl, you have until month’s end to take advantage of opening room rates of B3,900 net per night for a superior ocean view with breakfast buffet for two.
■■Adventure Package On Going
Thanyamundra Khlong Sok, Phanom, Surat Thani | 076-336000 | www.thanyamundra.com
Overlooking the most ecologically diverse national park in the country, Khao Sok, the idyllic Thanyamundra resort is great for trekkers who also like their high luxury and 50 metre long swimming pools. It even has its own 70 rai organic farm. Currently its offering a two night adventure package that includes accommodation, breakfast and set dinners, as well as airport transfers and half a day of trekking from just B22,000.
Until Mar 31 2013
■■V Party Package
V Villas Hua Hin Petchkasem Road, Hua Hin | 02-309-3939 | www.facebook.com/vvillashuahin
The two and three bedroom pool villas at the V Villas Hua Hin are apparently well geared up for parties, be it birthday celebration, karaoke fun, a family reunion, or a getaway with friends. Now, to make them even more attractive, the management have come up with this package for up to four-people. Rates including one night, breakfast, high-tea, grand BBQ dinner and 24-hour butler service start from B23,600. 3 4 | O c t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 3 5
t r av e l
upcountry escape
Out in Umphang Text and photos by Dave Stamboulis
T
he roads to and around Umphang are not even listed on a majority of maps of the country, and the majority of Thais one asks have never even heard of the place outside of the famed waterfalls of Tee Lor Su. I figured that was all the more reason to go there. Umphang lies in an isolated region along the Burmese border. To the south, stretching all the way to Sangkhlaburi is the Thung Yai Naresuan National Reserve, which encompasses the biggest wildlife corridor in Southeast Asia, home to tigers, wild elephants, gaurs, sloth bears, and many other wild animals. To the west is the Burmese border, inhabited by Karen rebels fighting against the military junta in Myanmar. The only access into Umphang is from the north. A 165-kilometre road is now paved, running from Mae Sot, over several mountain ranges. The journey into Umphang is half the fun of being there, as the road snakes around thousands of tight curves in the midst of gorgeous pristine mountain scenery. The roller coaster road has been dubbed the “Sky Highway,” which is a lot better than its former
3 6 | O c t ober 2 0 1 2
moniker of “The Death Road,” so called because of guerilla banditry that plagued the area several decades ago. Umphang is a sleepy town, more akin to a large village, built on the confluence of the Mae Klong and Umphang Rivers. It has lots of rickety wooden houses, several small markets, and is populated primarily by Karen. In fact, the name Umphang comes from the Karen word “umpha,” a bamboo container in which Karen traders going to and from Burma used to carry their valuables in. There are a handful of resorts and trekking agencies in Umphang, and they can arrange trekking and rafting trips into the gorgeous countryside. Most journeys head down the Mae Klong River by raft, aiming for Tee Lor Su waterfall, famed as being the biggest and most beautiful falls in Thailand. During the current rainy season, a sturdy rubber raft is the way to go (and highly necessary for safety), but during lower water levels (during the mid NovemberFebruary cool season, which is also a more pleasant time for hiking), a simple raft made out of bamboo poles is a cheaper and actually more enjoyable method of travel. bangkok101.com
Travel Tips Umphang can be reached via a fourhour songthaew (share taxi) ride from the border town of Mae Sot, which has bus connections to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Sukhothai, and elsewhere, as well as minivans to Tak (where one can continue to Phitsanulok to catch the train). In Umphang, there are several tour operators who can arrange treks. The bigger operators, such as Umphang Hill Resort run standard packages, while smaller operators like Napha will put together more personalized packages, and arrange guides for individual travellers. Costs run about B2,000-B5,000 and up depending on the type of trekking or rafting trip one desires, all inclusive (National Park fees, food, guides, accommodations, transport, and a day of rafting). All the tour operators also offer accommodation, mostly fairly simple, ranging in cost from a few hundred up to B1000. It is recommended to get to Umphang on one’s own and tour from there, as hefty fees are added on to begin the tours in Mae Sot. - Napha Tour 0 1 Sukhumwattana Road, Umphang, Tak 055-561-287, 081-855-8754 - Umphang Hill Resort 59 Moo 6. Umphang, Tak 055-561-063, 055-561-064 | www.umphanghill.com, Facebook: Umphang Hill Resort
Traveling down the Mae Klong, one is surrounded by lush jungle, the silence broken up only by the occasional rapids and abundant birdcalls. Kingfishers dart from trees and hornbills can be heard in the treetops above.
Camping - Entrance Fee: adult: B20 Thai, B200 foreigners; children: B10 Thai, B100 foreigners - Tent rental B30 per person/night For more info call Tak National Park 055-511-142, 088-427-5272
After visiting some scenic hotsprings and rainbow covered falls, one arrives at the entrance to Tee Lor Su waterfall in about three hours. The falls are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the park rangers are vigilant about keeping the area clean. No paper, plastic bottles, cigarettes, lighters,soap, or shampoo are allowed past the forest checkpoint on the trail leading to the falls, and thus the area remains immaculately preserved. The falls are multi-tiered, some plunging down from some 400 metres above the base, and are about 300 metres wide. The various waterfalls roar down fern draped limestone cliffs, and several of them have large pools beneath them, suitable for swimming in. There is an immense campsite set in the forest below the falls, where most people spend the night before continuing on. From the falls, one can visit Karen hill tribe villages such as Ban Kho Tha, where spending the night in a traditional homestay is possible. The villagers here do most of their agricultural work with elephants, and one can have the rare opportunity to spend the night in a place without electricity, internet access, or even cell phone coverage (although there is one television run off a solar cell that is charged up for three hours of viewing on Saturday nights!). bangkok101.com
  getting there
By Car: From Bangkok, take Paholyothin Road (highway route no.1) to Route no.32. Drive past Ayutthaya, Ang Thong, Sigha Buri, Chainart and Nakorn Sawan and switch to Route no.1 again. Then drive past Kam Peang Petch and on to Tak. After this approximately 5-6 hour journey use the Umhang-Meklong- Mae Chan Route to reach Umphang. By Bus: Buses depart daily from BKK to Tak from Mo Chit 2, on Kam Paeng Petch Road. More information at www.transport.co.th. oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 3 7
A R T S & C u lt u r e
COSMIC TOTEMS at WTF Gallery & CafĂŠ 4 0 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
A R T s & c u lt u r e | E x h i b i t i o n s
Arts & Culture There are several large-scale exhibitions worth catching this month. Now well into its run, the video, art and photography exhibition Traces examines the shared history and social fabric of ASEAN through the works of artists and sociologists from ten countries. Being staged at the Jim Thompson House Art Centre (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd, 02-612-6741, www.jimthompsonhouse. com), it wraps up on October 31. Also continuing until the end of this month, or thereabouts, is one of the biggest exhibitions Thailand has ever seen. Produced in honour of King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s 84th birthday celebration, the snappily titled Art in the Ninth Reign: Thai Trends from Localism to Internationalism, or Thai Trends for short, is a fresh look at artistic and creative activities during his long reign. There’s a full review over on page 14. Meanwhile, large format pictures inspired and taken from Very Thai, the candy-hued tome on everyday popular culture that we serialise each month, are now on display on the paved pedestrian area in front of Zen Department store (4/5 Rajdamri Road). They are likely to stay there until November, maybe beyond. Other notable exhibitions worth seeking out: Albert Yonathan Setyawan’s beguiling figurative drawings over at WTF; grief-inspired drawings by Bussaraporn Thongchai at Ardel’s Third Place; and video installation and multimedia works by Amrit Chusuwan and Witaya Junma at Tadu. bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 4 1
A R T S & C u lt u r e
exhibition highlights Mirage
Thavibu Gallery [MAP5 / D5] Suite 308, Silom Galleria 3/F, 919/1 Silom Rd, Soi 19 | Mon – Sat 11am – 7pm | 02-266-5454 | www.thavibu.com | BTS Surasak
Until Oct 13
Presenting idiosyncratic interpretations of familiar subject matter, well-known Vietnamese painter Pham An Hai’s abstract paintings are inspired by landscapes, cityscapes and nature. His latest series of textured oil on canvases focus on the symbolism of the lotus flower, a potent botanic in Asian culture which also has strong associations with his native city, Hanoi.
Airport Link
Art Centre Chulalongkorn University [MAP4 / C7] Phaya Thai Rd | Mon – Fri 9am – 7pm; Sat 9am – 4 pm | 02-218-2965 | www.ar.chula.ac.th/art | BTS Siam
Until Oct 20
As our capital becomes increasingly connected, so too does the potential for greater cultural exchanges. Aside from being a convenient artery to the city’s international airport, Suvarnabhumi, the airport rail link also provides access to the city’s Eastern suburbs, including King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology Ladkrabang. Commuting their art to the heart of downtown are several of the school’s artist lecturers.
The Man Number 10
ARDEL’s Third Place Gallery [map3 / q2] The Third Place, Thonglor Soi 10 | 02-422-2092, 084-772-2887, 086-890-2762 | 10am–8:30pm | www.ardelgallery.com I BTS Thonglor
Until Oct 28
The writing and drawings in Bussaraporn Thongchai’s second solo exhibition serve as a vehicle for her own journey of self-discovery. Inspired by the loss of her late father and the realisation that she will never meet him again, the simple black and white drawings explore the complicated relationship between herself, her father and men in general.
4 2 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
Spiritual Media Reaction
TADU-Thaiyarnyon Contemporary Art [MAP2/ G11] 2225 Thaiyarnyon Building F2, Sukhumvit Soi 87 I 02-311-4953 I 9:30am-6pm I facebook: TADUArtPage I BTS On Nut
Until Oct 31
Before closing three years ago, TADU was widely considered one of the city’s more dynamic art platforms. Fortunately, after a long hiatus, the gallery has now been reincarnated in a new space in the Onnut area of Sukhumvit. To welcome the return, the gallery is hosting this exhibition of video installation and multimedia works by Amrit Chusuwan and Witaya Junma.
Cosmic Totems
WTF GALLERY & CAFÉ [MAP3 / Q6] 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 I 02-662-6246 I Wed – Sun 3-10pm www.wtfbangkok.com I BTS Thonglor
Until Oct 25
Inspired by ancient totems, botanics and traditional abstract patterns, Albert Yonathan Setyawan’s beguiling figurative drawings speak of his fascination with the mystical aspects of nature. The Bandung-based artist utilises simple, structural forms of animals, flower and plants to illustrate his spiritual interactions with the natural world.
Art in the Ninth Reign: Thai Trends from Localism to Internationalism Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) [map4 / b4] 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www. bacc.or.th | BTS National Stadium
Until Nov 4
A large showcase exhibition to mark His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s seventh cycle, this presentation follows the development of Thai art through the King’s reign. Curated by influential art historian Apinan Poshyananda, the presentation features over 300 artists that highlight key turning points and defining moments. Themes include socio-political struggle, gender and marginality, and experimentation and media culture.
{
}
Enjoy these highlights from our sister publication the Bangkok Art Map. BAM is a free city map containing insights into Thailand's blossoming art scene. www.bangkokartmap.com
bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 4 3
A R T S & C u lt u r e
profile
Painter of the People:
Lampu Kansanoh
S
ince completing her first set of paintings at Silpakorn University back in 2005, Lampu Kansanoh has become a darling of the local scene.
A multiple winner of domestic and international art prizes, including the 2008 Toshiba Art Competition, this fresh-faced 28-year-old’s work defied the art market’s downward spiral during the global economic slump. She experienced strong advance sales for Nonsense: Nononsense, her debut solo exhibition at Ardel Gallery of Modern Art back in 2009 and this has been repeated in her subsequent ones, Bitter Sweet and Love Untitled. Today her work draws invitations from abroad; collectors hunt her down. What’s her appeal? Her bright, cheery oil on canvases don’t just depict happiness, they also spread it. No one else captures the happy-go-lucky nature of the Thai quite like her. In her 4 4 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
works the carefree and joyful expressions of her characters are exuberantly intensified by their exaggerated features: their melon-sized heads, engorged cheeks and exposed teeth. The results are hard not to smile or even laugh back at. Reviewing Nonsense: No-nonsense back in 2009, Steven Pettifor, editor of Bangkok 101’s sister publication the Bangkok Art Map, picked up on this: Kansanoh’s acute ability to caricature and endearing, largely innocent, sense of humour. “Centered upon intimate scenes that focus on a specific incident or gathering,” he wrote, “she delivers deliberately overstated dramas with the hammed-up intensity of a trashy Thai television soap opera.” He also noted that while the Thai soap opera is usually fixated on the upper classes, or hi so, the theatrical narrative found in Kansanoh’s work palpably isn’t. “Within the realms of the ordinary, the artist largely focuses her gaze on Thailand’s working class,” he writes. “Often looked down upon or belittled by Thailand’s urban elite, it is the forthright sincerity and emotional openness of this strata that enables Lampu to capture such honest expressions.” bangkok101.com
Her bright, cheery oil on canvases don’t just depict happiness, they also spread it.
For Kansanoh, an idealistic artist sensitive to the changing face of modern Thailand, the lower classes are also interesting because they have one thing the rich lack. “Thai society cares so much about social status,” she says, “but the truth is that people with a simple life are often happier with what they have. The story of Thailand’s working classes is interesting to me because instead of chasing happiness it’s within them.” Paintings such as Yummy, in which an old couple sits chatting and enjoying dessert in their own store, or Splash Splatter!, where a man and women on a motorbike are doused during Thailand’s New Year festival, their eyes squeezed shut, their mouths agape in laughter, are typical in their depictions of simple people who are content with their situations. “The scenes appear ordinary,” says Kansanoh. “But they are about living a simple life, similar to the King’s sufficiency philosophy. It’s not about the poverty; it’s about Dharma, the teachings of Lord Buddha, and being happy with what we have.” Back in 2009 Kansanoh, who hails from Samut Songkram province just south of the Thai capital and lists Thai bangkok101.com
national artist Chakrabhand Posayakrit as one of her main inspirations, was one of only two Thai artists (the other being Navin Rawanchaikul) invited to show their works at the 4th Fukuoka Asian Art Triennale, a prestigious event held at the highly esteemed Fukuoka Asian Art Museum. Currently her relationship with this highly regarded Japanese institution is continuing with a threemonth residency and exhibition, so clearly her work has international appeal. As for what she’s got coming here in Bangkok, look out for a group exhibition, Reading Europe, starting at Srinakarin University’s G23 on October 4. She also has a new exhibition at Ardel Gallery penciled in for September 2013. And, if you can’t wait that long, you can find her works brightening up the walls at the Thai Trends exhibition over at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), and at the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) out in the northern suburbs.
www.lampukansanoh.com oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 4 5
A R T S & C u lt u r e
A
in-space
THE READING ROOM
s the name suggests, The Reading Room is a refuge for there has been a lack of independent space in which open bookish types – but it’s not just your average, hushdiscussion on contemporary issues is encouraged. hush library full of snoozing students. Attracting worldly art-school types both Thai and foreign, this cozy, What do you do normally? beanbag-strewn space located up a staircase just off Silom Apart from running The Reading Room, I also teach art Road offers a diverse range of talks, workshops, screenings history at Silpakorn University. I’m also an independent and radical programming as well as chunky art and design writer (on contemporary art), translator and curator. And books. On a recent visit we were treated to an illuminating from time to time, I help organise and/or participate in talk by French researcher Claude Estebe about the semiotics social or political campaigns. of the original Godzilla movie. Past talks have navigated similarly geeky terrain, while future ones include a live Did any other libraries serve as a model for the Reading Room? broadcast on the 12 and 13th of this month from the Creative Not directly. I lived in New York for six years and spent a lot Time Summit, an annual conference in New York that brings of time in dozens of libraries citywide, and also independent cultural producers together to discuss world issues. After bookstores. I also worked in both non-profit and commercial learning about how Godzilla originally embodied nuclear art spaces for many years. So, I think in the end, everything paranoia and flicking through the tomes on modern Thai art, I’d seen and experienced opened up my perception of what we asked founder and director Narawan ‘Kyo’ Pathomvat to ‘space’ can be. tell us more about this one-of-a-kind, non-profit facility. We enjoyed the Godzilla talk. Are talks a common feature What is the reading room and why did you found it? of life here? The Reading Room is a contemporary art library that also Absolutely, all kinds of events – talks, screenings, lectures, functions as an activity space offering program or events workshops, performance, etc. – that are informational, covering art, film, literature and sociopolitical issues. I educational and encourage open discussion are what I aim founded the space firstly because I know how hard it is to for. It feels like our events help bring knowledge stored at find contemporary art resources in the city, and also recently the library back to life.
4 6 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
"Our events help bring knowledge stored at the library back to life."
Tell me about a couple of other talks that stick in your memory. The first one is always a memorable one, I suppose – it was the first event in a series of talk focusing on books, library and knowledge. We invited academics from diverse fields to exchange their thoughts. The first one featured a conversation between a political scientist and an artist/art historian; the second, between a historian and a writer; the third, between a philosopher and a literary academic, etc. Your book collection is in Thai and English. What about your events? Some are in Thai; some in English; some bilingual. It really depends on the speakers and the target audience. Our screenings, though, almost always have English subtitles. Did you buy all of these books? Or are some on loan? Most of them are mine, especially those in English. I grew up with books and I have been collecting them since I was in high school, and I have a special place for secondhand books. When I was in NY and even now when I travel, I always go hunting for secondhand books. Which books are the most prized? They are all personal to me. I can remember from where and under what circumstances I bought most of my secondhand books. I guess if I had to choose, I’d pick Malraux’s The Voices of Silence, Barron’s Degenerate Art: The Fate of the Avant-Garde in Nazi Germany, and an exhibition catalog The Machine (MoMA, 1968), whose covers aren’t papers but aluminum boards! What is the borrowing policy, or isn’t there one? There will be! But apart from me, there’s one other staff working at The Reading Room, and right now we’re overloaded with what we have at this point. Ideally, we will have to organise and label all our books before setting up membership and borrowing system. Hopefully, we can get it done early next year. bangkok101.com
We hear that you’re compiling information on BK libraries for a BACC exhibition. Please tell us more. The Reading Room was invited by a curator Chitti Kasemkitvatana to participate in a group exhibition focusing on art activity/educational project in early November. I’ve always wanted Bangkok to have a comprehensive book map, as we already have an excellent Bangkok Art Map, and since Bangkok will be UNESCO’s World Book Capital next year. It’s a great opportunity to gather information on public and private libraries, and independent bookstores and spread it to the public. We’ll be putting it on maps, both printed and online. Also, tell us about your involvement in this month’s Creative Time Summit. Basically, Creative Time called out for global partners to do live broadcast of their Summit in mid-October. I applied and got accepted – easy as that. The Summit brings together cultural producers to discuss how their work engages contemporary socio-poitical issues. This edition, ‘Confronting Inequity’, will focus on wealth inequality across the globe and the ways in which it erodes democracy, the keynote speaker being Slavoj Zizek. We’re staging a twonight event from October 12-13 featuring a live broadcast and also a panel discussion by a Thai academic and art historian. What else does the Reading Room do? As a library, we have a few campaigns that are ongoing. One is called ‘The Reader’: we invite any ‘reader’ to select a book at the library to read for a month and then share their thoughts with the public every Friday via our Facebook page and website. In the future, I would also love to establish a research project, translation project (art historical) and researcher in residency program.
เดอะ รีดดิ้ง รูม สีลม ซ.19
The Reading Room [MAP5 / D5] 4th floor, 2 Silom Soi 19 | 02-635-3674 | Wed-Sun 1-7pm www.readingroombkk.org www.facebook.com/thereadingroombkk oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 4 7
A R T S & C u lt u r e
4 8 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
reading & screening
Discover Bangkok with Kids
Jacqueline Grawburg | 231pp Travel Bug Publishing www.bangkokwithkids.com | B690 Even the best made plans to explore the City of Angels can fall apart if the your little angels throw a tantrum. Jacqueline Grawburg, a mother of two and long-time resident, knows this better than most and has channeled her experiences into this easy-toread practical guide detailing all the ‘must do’ museums, cultural sights and activities. Aside from being well structured, the truly nifty thing about it are the nuggets of parental information that accompany each of the capsule reviews. Not only has she worked out the recommended age group for each place and how much time it’ll kill (the Bangkok Doll Museum 30-60 min, for example), she also answers other pressing parental questions such as “how difficult it “is to get there?” and “is there food close by?” Of course, there’s still no guarantee your kids won’t throw a hissy fit, but with this book to hand at least you’ll have a back-up plan.
SIAMESE MEMOIRS: THE LIFE & TIMES OF PIMSAI SVASTI
Ping Amranand | Amulet Production 200pp | B550 More than three decades after his mother MR Pimsai Svasti’s tragic death, Ping Amranand finally completed her unfinished autobiography. As the first female Thai Oxford graduate, as well as an ardent writer and avid gardener, Svasti paved the way for modern Thai women in many ways. With close ties to the King (she had royal lineage), her personal accounts vividly capture Buddhist philosophy, culture, and the mid 20th century Thai way of life. However, more than merely sharing her personal accounts, Svasti’s flashbacks give us raw and insightful glimpses into the political and social events that changed Thailand as a nation. Reflecting the upheavals of the 20th century, her life stories take us through the landmark 1932 coup, the abdication of King Rama VI, World War II, and ultimately, her own tragic murder in 1977. As much the story of a Kingdom as a celebration of one woman’s life, Siamese Memoirs is a representation of Thai history that has seldom been seen before.
BANGKOK BABYLON
Somerset Maugham Jerry Hopkins | Periplus Editions 224pp | B550 The man who inspired Apocalype Now’s Colonial Kurtz. An Air America pilot turned go-go bar owner. The original Thai travel writer. Each of the 25 expatriates profiled in this book by Jerry Hopkins (author of definitive Jim Morrison biography No One Here Gets Out Alive) has a different story. And yet the narrative arc is all too familiar: spirited foreigner, disillusioned with life in the west, finds fulfillment in Babylonian Bangkok. Not one woman is profiled – a disappointment (but no surprise considering Hopkins knows many of his subjects from the barscene). Still, Bangkok Babylon is an often laugh-out loud record of some of Bangkok’s most talented and roguish farang, as well as a testament to the possibilities for reinvention this compliant city affords. If you’re considering moving here read it, if only to learn how high – and low – the bar has been set.
SONG OF CHAOPHAYA (NONG MIA)
M. L. Chatrichalerm Yukol | 1990 | $8.5 | www.ethaicd.com Thailand’s 1990 Oscar submission is a stirring slice of social realism by M.L. Chatrichalerm, a prince who was known for his hard-hitting films about common folk before he switched to bloated period epics. Bored with a life spent floating sand up Bangkok’s Chao Phaya River, wife Prang gets off the family barge in search of stardom. When husband Sang obsessively tries to find her, his plucky little sister-in- law Prang – the titular nong mia – is left holding the baby, literally. Like in earlier film Hotel Angel, Chatri’s Bangkok is vice-filled – all throbbing go-go bars, fishbowl massage parlours, creepy mamasans and conniving taxi drivers. And the plot – and plaintive pleng peau chiwit folk songs which bookend the film – seem to promote the idea that the lower classes should never aim or wish for greater things. But though its message may be didactic and dubious, Nong Mia wrings feeling out of you by dint of its lovely on-location cinematography, lack of melodrama and trio of sympathetic characters well-acted. bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 4 9
Dressing up with
Maeban Mee Nuad B
angkok has more than its fair share of cross-dressers, but, despite first appearances, 22 year-old student Anurak ‘Bew’ Cholmunee isn’t one of them: he’s Maeban Mee Nuad, the housewife with a moustache. Since starting the Facebook page on a whim back in July, pictures of his portly alter ego posing in public while clad in a flouncy dress or garish one-piece have gained him 50,000 followers and rising. If we had to put our finger on Maeban Mee Nuad’s success it would be the comic brio of his poses. At their best, they appear to channel the coquettish spirit of Marlene Dietrich or Monroe. Add a ridiculously over-the-top outfit and the most mundane of everyday backdrops and it’s hard not to laugh. In one shot, he appears every inch the diva, while lent back in a Swan-shaped pedalo. In another, he’s a domineering bombshell, stood atop the cart of a bemused looking scrap dealer. Each picture is thought through but shot quickly. Once a location is selected, he and his camera crew – a friend clasping an iPhone usually – hang around until they see their window of opportunity. As for the clothes, there’s no wardrobe team working behind the scenes either. “I do all of them myself” he says. “And i always bring along my stuff in my bag so I am ready,” he says, with the air of a consummate professional. There is probably something high-brow and intellectual to be said about Maeban Mee Nuad, namely, how he ties into gender roles and homosexuality in 21st century Thailand. But for most of his followers – and Bew himself even – there is no serious ‘message’, these ever more zany shots of a young chap in drag camping it up in public are just a bit of fun. Maeban Mee Nuad is not meant to be analyzed but to be enjoyed. www.facebook.com/maebanmeenuad
FOOD & DRINKS
GAI Hor bai toey at Baan Rub Rong 5 6 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
AROY
food & drink news
F o o d & D r i n k s | x x x x x x x x x x x x x x
MAK Pop-up Dinner at Opposite Opposite (27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246, www. oppositebangkok.com), the sister of WTF Café & Gallery, holds its Pop-up Restaurant Version 6, with Wild Flavors: Craft Beer & Tastes from America’s Northwest on October 12 and 13. The wild flavours refer to game traditionally hunted in the forests and waters of Oregon, Washington and California. Each of the five courses, prepared by chef Tim Butler of Eat Me restaurant, will be accompanied by American beers. The price is B2,300. Oskar Bistro Upgrades For us, sit-down dining at Oskar Bistro (24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255-3377) has rarely been as satisfying as it should have been, especially on weekends, when it’s too packed and pumping. So we were pleased to learn that they’ve just added an upstairs space where the focus is on table service and the dance music quieter. Climb the metal staircase flanking the outdoor terrace and you’ll find tables inside, and a row of sofas overlooking the street on the balcony outside. We tried it recently and were impressed, not just with the new space, but also the overhauled food and cocktail menu accompanying it. Chef and partner Julien Lavigne has added in pasta and fish sections (dishes such as crispy skinned salmon on a bed of risotto; B450++) as well as more cocottes and new-fangled pizzas such as the chicken satay and spicy chorizo. Meanwhile, the cocktails have been reworked by Ansaldi, the former head bartender at the St. Regis’ Zuma. Our pick: the Cherry Blossom Sour, a short glass of cherry gin, amarena, lychee, lemon and egg white (B190++). It’s refreshing, fruity and strong – just the way we like ‘em. One more change we approve of: the kitchen is now open later, until midnight Sun-Thurs, and until 1am Fri-Sat.
bangkok101.com
*very delicious
Le Beaulieu Born Again Chef Hervé Frerard returns to the Bangkok scene with the long awaited re-opening of Le Beaulieu (Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd, 081-362-1362, www.lebeaulieu.com). Those who remember the original restaurant in Sukhumvit 19 will look forward to more French Riviera cuisine and Hervé’s legendary cheese selection. The new place also includes a patisserie and wine bar. We’ll have a full review in soon. New Openings A spin-off from Vietnam, El Gaucho (Sukhumvit Soi 19 | 02-255 2864) is a fully-fledged Argentinean steakhouse just a short walk from Sukhumvit Road. Expect traditional specialties and no shortage of hearty tenderloins and sizzling rib-eyes in a modern ambience. A big wad of cash has clearly also been spent on Bottoms Up (888 Soi Tharom 2, Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55): a ritzy new Thonglor winebar stocking lots of international beers and with state-ofthe-art dispensers dishing out vino by the glass. Other restaurants that have landed include Hola, a tapas joint on the lower ground floor of Eight Thonglor (Thonglor Soi 8 | 02-713-8387 | www.holaspanishfood. com). Meanwhile, the latest Italian on the block is Bangkok’s very own branch of the London based Signor Sassi, which opened last month at the Anantara Bangkok Sathorn (36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd, 02-210-9000, www.bangkok-sathorn.anantara.com). Expect 37th floor views and traditional flavours. Also, coming soon is a new bar restaurant by ex D’Sens chef Julien Lavigne and Karol Ansaldi, formerly of the St. Regis’ Zuma. Almost finished as of writing, Gossip (Thonglor Soi 15 | 02-185-3093) will be a two floor affair offering snacks and mains, cocktails, and interiors and menus seemingly ripped from the pages of Life magazine. oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 5 7
FOOD & DRINKS
meal deals
Oct 23 – Dec 23
■■Seafood Parade Dinner
Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn [MAP5 / D7] 33/1 South Sathorn Road | 02-210-8100 | www.eastingrandsathorn.com
Due to popular demand, The Glass House at the Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn is giving its “Seafood Parade” buffet an extended run. Priced at B1,199 ( children under 16 get a 50% discount), highlights of the “parade” include Alaskan crab claws, black and soft-shelled crabs, Sydney rock oysters, rock lobsters, mussels, tiger prawn and squid. Not satisfied? This is a full international buffet complete with meat grill section.
■■Oktoberfest
Until Oct 31
BeerVault [MAP3 / E6] Four Points by Sheraton, 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15 | 02-309-3255 | www.facebook.com/beervault For the first time ever the BeerVault is marking Oktoberfest with a buy 1 get 1 free on all its German beer. Enjoy the evenings and weekends with an ice cold Paulaner, Erdinger or one of the twelve other varietals of German beers alongside authentic German food at decent prices. The fun will be every day from 3pm, with complimentary beers on offer to those who come with a funny hat.
■■Halloween Treats & Chinese Classics
Oct 31
Novotel Siam [MAP4 / D5] 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6, Rama 1 Road | 02-209-8888 | www.novotelbkk.com Things will get creepy at the Novotel Siam’s The Square on Oct 31, when they serve a Halloween-inspired dinner buffet for B950++ with a “scary” welcome drink. Kids who come clad in fangs and cape or some other ghoulish outfit will receive some special treats. Meanwhile, through October Chinese restaurant Lok Wah Hin is serving Chef Leung’s home-style baked clay pots from just B350++ per dish.
■■Modern Degustation Menu
Oct 31
Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok [MAP3 / J7] 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, Sukhumvit Road | 02-117-7755 www.rembrandtbkk.com | www.facebook.com/rembrandtbkk A modern degustation menu paired with international wines from France, Chile, South Africa and Thailand is being served at Rang Mahal, the hotel’s esteemed Indian restaurant. Using modern techniques, the chefs will rework classic dishes such as Tandoori prawns, Goan Soup and Masala crusted scallops among others. The dinner costs B3,700 net per person and is served from 6-11pm daily.
Ongoing
■■Magnifique Sunday Brunch
Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit [MAP3 / E6] 189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13-15 | 02-126-9999 | www.sofitel.com
The Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit’s signature all day dining restaurant, Voilà!, is now offering Sunday brunch. As well as a bounteous selection of fresh seafood and western favourites, expect to find live cooking stations and a Parisian-style rotisserie. The price is B2,250 net with unlimited soft drinks or B3,200 net with free flow champagne cocktails and house wines. Through October, spend B6,000 net per table and you’ll receive a B1,000 net voucher for a luxury spa treatment.
Ongoing
■■Ladies Days Special on Thursdays Imperial Queen’s Park [MAP3 / L7] 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-261-9000 www.imperialhotels.com/imperialqueenspark
Every Thursday at the Imperial Queen’s Park is ladies day. Simply complete a registration form at the ‘Ladies Counter’ in the lobby and enjoy a 50% saving on dining at all of the hotel’s restaurants, buffets and bars. If you’re interested, the deal also includes a one-day pass for the fitness centre (except squash) and 50% off the accommodation rack rates (booking and payment must be made in a lady’s name). 5 8 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
Baan Rub Rong by Max Crosbie-Jones
- superlative thai food in simply-attired surrounds There are Thai restaurants that scrape by serving mediocre food in a pretty setting. Then there are those that succeed because they serve some of the best Thai food you’ve ever tasted. Baan Raprong, a spacious and spotless family-orientated modern Thai affair near Paradise Park and Seacon Square shopping malls, hums the latter tune. On its website, they claim to be seriously persnickety about their ingredients. “We carefully select all raw materials to ensure their freshness, cleanliness and meet our premium quality policy. Our vegetables are delivered daily right from the farm. Seafood is from natural river and sea around Thailand to ensure their freshness and we select only premium size. Every clove of onion and garlic are carefully selected. And all our cashew nuts and nuts are selected to ensure that no contaminant is left.” That’s quite a list of claims but, try as we did to pick holes in them, the freshness and flavours of the cooking here backed them up. Starters hinted at the quality to come. The pla satay are six little sticks of grouper fish served with sweet and smooth peanut sauce. Usually a pork dish, the white, succulent meat made a nice change from the usual chewiness. Gai hor bai toey, nuggets of deep-fried chicken wrapped in pandanus leaf, were also juicy and tender, though the plum sauce was a little too sweet for our liking. As well as these sorts of Thai restaurant mainstays, the menu (a whacking great, 300-dish strong, picture-led affair that might leave the indecisive umming and aahing) also bangkok101.com
includes many unusual dishes that intriqued us: a fresh, funky salad, or yum, of grated white turmeric, mango, lemongrass and friend garlic for example. There’s also Southern Thai food; dishes such as that perilously hot classic kaeng dtai pla . One of our group likened the version here to a “good-looking Southern guy”, which is a roundabout way of saying that as well as looking the part the dish had an endearing complexity of character (no wonder she kept sticking her spoon in it). And some northern staples, such as nam prik pla too, mackerel with chilli dip, join the party too. For those of us who live in downtown Bangkok, a trip out to the Srinakarin Road area for a spot of lunch or dinner is a big commitment. One that entails careering up and down expressways and sitting in no small amount of traffic. However, Baan Rub Rong is one of the few restaurants in the area that we can confidently say is worth the effort. A plainly attired, affordable bastion of very good food, it’s a fine Thai restaurant in the old-fashioned sense of the word. Bring your Thai friend who thinks that all westerners like it mild or your Thai mother in law to be and they’ll be very impressed indeed.
บ้านรับรอง ศรีนครินทร์ ซ.55 getting there
Baan Rub Rong [MAP2 / j11] 8 Soi Mooban Seri Villa (Srinakarin Soi 55) 02-185-6029 | www.baanrubrong.com oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 5 9
FOOD & DRINKS
Basil
by Chaweitporn Tamthai
- for a limited time only: isan food goes upscale There is a pervasive strain of thought among Thai people regarding street food and luxury food. Most believe that a local joint turns out vastly superior, not to mention cheaper, Thai food than that served at more expensive restaurants. And it’s a reasonable assumption: our experience has born it out, time and time again. However, after trying the ‘Inspired by Isan’ menu at the Sheraton Grande’s basil, we think that might be oversimplifying things somewhat. After all, what really makes the difference between a bad som tum and a good one is the quality of ingredients used, not where it was made, right? And to be fair, in recent years a handful of standalone restaurants have succeeded at serving Northeastern cuisine in a more upmarket setting than the usual fold-up tables on the street, so why not a hotel? In this new spirit of open-mindedness, we are pleased to announce that basil’s Isan specials, while certainly pricier that their street cousins, are no slouch in the taste or quality department. Open-minded foodies keen on the regional cuisine’s intense, spicy flavours – but not keen on gritty kerbside dining – would do well to give it a shot. Until the end of this month, Chef Kesinee is turning out appetizers such as koy pla tuna, an Isan-style tuna tartar with 6 0 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
local herbs, and nahm tok moo, spicy grilled pork salad laced with fresh mint. As for the mains, there are two curries to choose from: gaeng hed ruam pla neua sai, a dory fish with mushroom curry, and gaeng aom, a thin soup filled with local herbs and vegetables. We recommend the latter for its intense flavours (the boldest one being dill). If you are a meat lover, there is also saep nua, spicy and sour Isan soup with braised beef, lemon grass, galangal and kaffir. All sounds a bit too exotic and unfamiliar for you? Should you not fancy any of the Isan specials, this very elegant restaurant (think dimpled chrome tabletops, backlit walls loaded with Thai lacquerware and flute shaped ceiling lamps) also has a big à la carte menu filled with creative twists on all the Thai classics. Basil is also one of only a few Thai restaurants in town to have a wine list pairing bottles with dishes – always a tricky task where Thai food is concerned.
รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ถ.สุขุมวิท getting there
basil [MAP3 / F6] 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8366 www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com Mon-Fri 12-2:30pm, daily 6:30pm-10:30pm bangkok101.com
Wholly Cow by Howard Richardson
- a smart, friendly neighbourhood steakshouse Three bankers opened Wholly Cow around the concept of wine, steak and cigars, back in July, although the cigar bar (called ‘Holy Smokes’) was originally going to be a butcher until they did the sums and figured nicotine might generate more revenue. They even plan to open a noodle stall in the front courtyard for lunch. This last is an extension of the original property – an old Thai house that for many years was a noodle shop that the bankers – all locals – visited regularly.
slightly sweet salsa that worked well against the salty corn chips – and pan fried scallops wrapped in bacon (B250++), in which the bacon ideally would have been cooked a little longer, but not disastrous. Australian Angus tenderloin and rib eye (both B650++) come as thin cut 8oz steaks, aged 21 days, both with a good sear and well seasoned in a ‘secret marinade’ with nuances of Lea & Perrins sauce. To finish, the crepes Suzette and chocolate soufflé (which was more akin to a half-baked chocolate cake) were both tasty.
The old house itself is now invisible from the outside. It forms the kitchen and office areas, having been wrapped by a new structure, (inevitably) glass-fronted, with an interior of warehouse-chic – the faux brick facades, the black girders, the polished concrete floor…
Wines start at B750++/bottle for a drinkable Misiones de Rengo from Chile (the only by-the-glass option, B200++) and run to around B3,500++, with Belgian beers (B145275) a good alternative.
The loosely American-style menu offers relaxed, informal dining that you can order Thai sharing style or Euro individual plates. It draws a crowd (and there’s already a good turnout) of mainly Thais – but with a decent smattering of farang – and mixed, with kids and grannies, after work chill-out, romantic couples and families weekend brunching. The menu starts with options like nachos (B140++) – actually very tasty, topped with cheese and bacon and a bangkok101.com
If you’re turned on (or off) by the prospect of live pop and easy listening jazz, often with an audience sing-along, it starts at 7.30pm on Friday and Saturday. Otherwise, the Cow is a smart, friendly neighbourhood option.
โฮล์ลี่ คาว อารีย์ ซ.2 getting there
Wholly Cow [MAP8 / l7] Ari Soi 2 | 02-619-8177 | www.whollycowbkk.com | Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10:30pm oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 6 1
FOOD & DRINKS
6 2 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
sweet treat
Pause 2 Play by Chaweitporn Tamthai
- a cake shop where east meets west Ever wanted to put your life on pause? Located within the Portico Langsuan, this dark toned little dessert and coffee bar is designed for exactly those moments. It’s a small space with indie music playin’ and black tissue napkins to match the minimalist décor, but what really marks it out from the competition is not so much the colour scheme as the dessert list: a fusion of east with west. Take ‘Twisted Far East’ (B175), which is P2P’s most popular signature dessert. Comprised of soybean, brown sugar, ginger jelly and a scoop of ice cream, the aim is to mimic the taste of a traditional Thai dessert that uses the same ingredients, and it’s largely successful. For people who like their desserts super sweet the ‘Baklava GaGa’ (B155) is also worth considering. It’s essentially Turkish Baklava: fruits & nuts wrapped by crispy pastry, the difference here being the modern presentation, scoop of vanilla ice cream and orange mandarin sauce. For those of you who are impatient or just plain short on time, they also serve brownies and parfaits that you don’t have to wait around for. Monthly specials mix things up (scan their Facebook fan page for updates) and, if none of the sweet stuff appeals, there are even wines. Lovers of a good cup of joe are also in the right place, as the blends here are from Vittoria, an esteemed brand from Australia. A single espresso costs B75, a double B95. It’s not groundbreaking, but Pause 2 Play strikes us as being a stylish alternative for sweet tooths who have tired of the same old slices. Try pausing the next time you’re going past.
เดอะ พอร์ดโิ ก ถ.หลังสวน getting there
Pause 2 Play [MAP4 / J6] Unit 207 The Portico, Lang Suan Road, Lumpini 081-842-9424 | www.facebook.com/pause2play bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 6 3
FOOD & DRINKS
ealtike
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel …
Ban Mor’s Parched Chicken Noodles
“If it’s an excellent noodle dish you’re after, there’s a place just around the corner you should try,” said a sweet voice from out of the darkness. So began my introduction to Ban Mor’s to-die-for kuay tiew kua kai cart. It was on a night out at Pak Klong Talad, the city’s photogenic 24 hour flower market, that we found it. Hunger had struck, and my friends and I had decided to head away from the main flower-selling strip on a tasty noodle hunt.
After a couple of wrong turns – and one good tip-off – we soon found ourselves ordering from a little food cart propped up against an alley wall in the heart of Ban Mor, a quaint community of old two-storey shophouses. What impressed me was not only with the shop location, but also the focus of its proprietor and the story he had to tell. Khun Mit inherited the recipe for this stirfried wide noodle dish from his sister, who in turn had inherited it from their father. In total the recipe has been filling hungry bellies for over 40 years. All this he told me while working intently: fanning the charcoal to make the flame’s stronger, prepping the dish’s main components (eggs, chicken, sauce and noodles) and 6 4 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
then slow-cooking them all together in a pot. In his right hand he held a pair of chopsticks, in his left hand the pot, and they moved in tandem to ensure that every bit of the mixture got heated evenly. Such was his concentration that it looked like he was playing a zither over a red fire.
Then, once ready, he carefully scraped out every last morsel of the soft but slightly crisped brown noodles in to a bowl containing a bed of green lettuce. How did it taste? Let’s just say that the zen-like manner in which he made our kuay tiew kua kai was matched by our enjoyment at eating it. “I don’t think my daughter wants to follow in my footsteps,” he said with a hint of sadness as we bid farewell, a little lost but very happy. My advice to you, therefore, is retrace our footsteps while you can, as, for now at least, this is one of the best versions out there.
บ้านหม้อ ถ.บ้านหม้อ getting there [MAP7 / f13]
Kuay Tiew Kua Kai is on Thanon Ban Mor, about 300 metres past the intersection with Pahurat Road. It’s down a little alley on the right hand side. Opening hours: 6pm-9pm Mon-Sat and 9am-6pm Sun bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 6 5
FOOD & DRINKS
cooking with poo
Stop sniggering at the back! Poo is actually the nickname of one of the city’s most in-demand cooks, Saiyuud ‘Chom-Poo’ Diwong. A long-time resident of Bangkok’s Klong Toey slum, Poo runs her own cooking school as part of the Helping Hands initiative, a community self-help program she started with other residents. The profits help street businesses get on their feet. Each month we bring you a recipe from her cooking book, copies of which are available via her website www.cookingwithpoo.com.
Spicy Beef Salad
Yam nua
ยำ�เนื้อ
Many Thai people do not eat beef, as it conflicts with certain religious beliefs. However, those who do eat it, agree that this spicy salad is great to eat on any occasion. Refreshing and filling, Spicy Beef Salad will leave you and your guests wanting more. Preparation
ingredients
• 1 cup of water • 300g beef (sliced) • fresh chillies (to taste) • 1 tbsp red onion • 1 tomato (diced) • 2 spring onions
• 4 kaffir lime leaves (chopped finely) • 1 tbsp lemongrass (chopped finely) • 2 tbsp of lime juice • 1 tbsp fish sauce • 2 tbsp coriander • 7 mint leaves
• Boil water • Add beef and boil until cooked • Drain 80% water • Add chilli, red onion, tomato, spring onions, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, lime juice, fish sauce, coriander and mix it all together • Garnish with mint leaves
COOKING WITH POO
Saiyuud Diwong | UNOH Publications 112pp | www.cookingwithpoo.com Aus $20 6 6 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
Jim Thompson Restaurant
THAI CHOTE CHITR [MAP7 / F9]
146 Phraeng Phuton | 02-221-4082 noon-10pm (closed Sun)
This it it – that culinary Holy Grail, the hole in the wall with heavenly food. Chote Chitr is set in a scenic neighbourhood near the Giant Swing – a lucky thing, because finding this restaurant can required the orienteering skills of a seasoned city survivalist. And then: a narrow shotgun space, cooks and dogs alike sprawled out on the floor – this is the home of the finest mee krob on the land? Indeed. Sit your sweaty self down and tuck in to this gorgeous melding of contrasts. Greaseless, whisper-light noodles packed with sour-tart citrus flavours from the peel of som saa fruit. Chote Chitr’s version kicks up its heel at all the syrupy nightmare mee globs out there. Banana-flower salad is revelation, fried fish is dressed to kill in garlic, and the eggplant salad is mysteriously spicy, smokily sweet. Simple surrounds, celestial food – what could be more Thai than that?
ร้านโชติจิตรโภชนา ถ.ตะนาว Jim Thompson Restaurant [MAP4 / A3]
6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-612-3601 www.jimthompson.com, www.facebook.com/jimthompsonrestaurants. thailand | noon – 5pm, 7pm – 11pm
This city’s number two tourist attraction is home to a restaurant that pairs a sumptuous, silk-and-fabric strewn setting with some surprisingly unusual Thai food. Add drinkable white or red house wine at B200 a glass, and a daily 4:30-7:30pm happy hour (buy one get one on house wine and draught beer) and there’s absolutely no reason to be bangkok101.com
sniffy about the place. There are typical Thai dishes, yes, but there are also lots that aren’t. For a new taste sensation try the intensely spiced sang wah goong kub pla duke foo, also known as old fashioned grilled prawn salad with traditional herbs, fresh vegetables and crispy catfish. Not only is this dish served in an intricately carved pumpkin, but each and every condiment is prepared with an artistic flair that does late silk tycoon Jim Thompson’s artistic legacy proud. Other notable dishes here include the pleasantly mild kaeng khao puak , or crispy wispy fried taro; as well as more adventurous options like the rarely seen tom som pla gra pong khao, sea bass fish soup laced with a savoury tinge of tamarind. We were skeptical too, but pop by for an elegantly plated lunch or dinner and you’ll all leave sated and happy.
จิม ทอมป์สัน เรสเตอร์รอง เกษมสันต์ ซ.2 (ถ.พระราม 1) MANGO TREE [MAP5 / H4]
37 Soi Tontawan, Surawong Rd BTS Sala Daeng | 02-236-2820 11:30am-midnight
Tables at this King Rama VI-era house, the home of an award-wining international chain, aren’t fought over quite as keenly as those of its sister branches in London and Tokyo. That said, tucked just off seedy Surawong Road, Mango Tree is great for a gorge on the milder side. Inside, flocks of unobtrusive wait-staff serve up delicately-styled, politely-spiced Thai staples. From tom yum to green papaya salad, everything is free from the tyranny of too-much chilli. End result? No red faces; other less assertive oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 6 7
FOOD & DRINKS
Bourbon Street
dressing. Not hot enough for you? Here are three dishes that push the spice-ometre to overdrive: the khua kling nua (fried beef in spicy paste with kaffir lime leaves), the gaeng leang (turmeric-yellow curry), and, the most tongue-scouring but gratifying dish we tried, the gaeng dtai pla (a rich, complex, maroon-red bamboo & pumpkin curry). Also interesting is goong pad kapi sataw : a strong-tasting stir-fry pairing juicy prawns with fermented shrimp paste and green, bitter beans. Note that dishes for foreigners will probably be less assertively spiced. If you want the full incendiary rocket blast, brush up on your Thai and prepare for lift-off.
chef who’s worked at the Ritz Carlton, is now helming the kitchen, but otherwise not an awful lot has changed in the food department. Kick off your feast with a few appetisers – a plate of well battered popcorn shrimp (B180++) or buffalo chicken wings served with a moreish blue cheese dressing (B160++) perhaps – before moving on to the richer, starchier fare. As you’d expect, the Cajun classics come thick and fast: hearty gumbo stews, zesty homemade sausages, blackened fish, steaming bowls of jambalaya, the list goes on and on. One must order: the BBQ baby back pork ribs (B370++) glazed in a thick BBQ sauce and served with refried beans and slices of cornbread. As for dessert, if forced at gunpoint to pick a favourite, we’d opt for a slice of the rich pecan pie. On our weeknight visit, it was busy, with more middle-class Thais than nostalgic Americans, something you’d never have dreamed of seeing at the original. Other draws that might encourage you to join them: free Wi-fi, fresh oysters, potent margaritas (B155++), five house wines by the glass, Skytrain proximity (we clocked our walk at 5 minutes), efficient and friendly service, and the legendary Tuesday night Mexican buffet (B315++).
มัลลิกา ซ.รางน้ำ�
เบอร์เบิ้นสตรีท์ เอกมัย
AMERICAN
CHINESE
mallika
flavours excel (the herbal blast of the shallot and lemongrass drenched river prawn salad a prime example). Starters are excellent (especially the deep fried chicken in padanus leaf ); as are desserts (try the stewed bananas in coconut milk) and most things in-between. Sit outside in the frangipani-lined courtyard, for traditional khim music (weekdays) and Thai dancing (weekends) beneath the old mango tree it’s named after.
แมงโก้ ทรี ซ.ทานตะวัน ถ.สุรวงศ์
SOUTHERN THAI Mallika [MAP8 / K10]
3 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai | BTS Victory Monyment | 02-248-0287 | 10am – 10pm
Southern Thai cuisine offers a brave new world of complex, pungent, searing hot flavours. Run by a family from Chumporn – a province in the deep south – this quaint yellow house is one of the best places in town to give it a trial (by fire), serving super spicy southern curries, salads, stirfries and vegetables dishes. Start yourself off with something mild, like dok kajon fai dang. Cooked in oyster sauce, this stir-fry stars flecks of pork and a crunchy fern-like vegetable and is delicious. Ditto the pla samret tod mamuang, a deep-fried fish with an out-of-this-world spicy mango 6 8 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
Bourbon Street [MAP3 / U5]
DIN TAI FUNG [map4 / F4]
9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekamai) | BTS Ekkamai | 02-381-6801 www.bourbonstbkk.com | 7:30am – 1am
7th F, CentralWorld Rajdamri Rd BTS Chit Lom | 02-646-1282 www.dintaifung.com.tw | 11am – 10pm
The capital’s 26-year-old home of Cajun and Creole cuisine has changed for the better. In late 2011, Bourbon Street finally moved from Washington Square (a seedy, rundown entertainment strip dating back to the Vietnam war-era) to a prime, sevenstorey slice of Ekamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) real estate. Timothy Westay, an American
From a distance Din Tai Fung isn’t much to look at. As you get closer, though, and the glassed-in open kitchen comes into view things get more interesting. Thick columns of steam, resembling geysers sprung from the earth, billow upwards from vents over towering stacks of wooden trays. And a dozen or more worker bees in white bangkok101.com
DIN TAI FUNG
overalls, masks and hats can be seen busy stuffing and folding. The thing they’re all preparing in this, the laboratory-like nerve centre of Din Tai Fung, are steamed pork dumplings, or xiao long bao. Unmistakably fresh and hygienically made, the plump, intricately folded bundles arrive in sets of six or ten pieces, sagging under the weight of their soup and fillings. And how do they taste? Pretty damn good, it has to be said. Scarf only a few of these hot, delicate, broth-filled mouthfuls – the crack cocaine of steamed dim sum – and it becomes obvious why Din Tai Fung has gained Asia-wide adulation and even a Michelin star (for its Hong Kong outlet) since the original branch opened in Taipei back in 1953. Apart from the dumplings, they also do soups, noodle soups, stir-fry greens and sides, all of which are tasty enough… but nowhere near as addictive as those dreamy xiao long bao.
ดิน ไท่ ฟง เซ็นทรัลเวิล์ด
bangkok101.com
D‘Sens
FRENCH D’Sens [MAP5 / L6]
Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Silom 02-200-9000-2499 | www.dusit.com Mon- Fri 11:30am – 2pm; Mon – Sat 6pm – 10pm
When it opened in 2005, D’Sens was a big deal – a fine French restaurant with killer views – but since then its competitors have stolen its thunder somewhat. However, now that Christian Ham, a new chef de cuisine with over twenty years experience in some of France and Asia’s leading Michelin starred kitchens, is helming the kitchen it’s back on our radar again. The top floor venue’s dining room and widescreen panorama over Lumpini Park still impress, but Ham’s food is what really captured our eye. And thankfully, looks aren’t deceiving; Ham has the flavours to match his chic plating. On our visit we were offered two choices – an à la
carte menu or a seven course set menu (B 3,100++) – both comprised entirely of his subtly nuanced creations: dishes such as duck liver ravioli served swimming in a heavily aerated and delicate white truffle foam; and grilled US scallops with a parsnip mousseline and smoked breast chips. Another standout was his roasted lamb loin with eggplant gnocci dumplings. The small tender slices arrived stacked like falling dominos, surrounded by artfully drizzled gravy, and were absolutely on the money. Dessert – a piping hot Valrhona chocolate fondant served with salted butter caramel sauce and chocolate ice cream – was the perfect denouement to his masterful manhandling of classical French cooking. Wines are a good match here – mainly old world – and the service, overseen by the amiable restaurant manager Thomas Deledalle, first-class: ever-so attentive but never obtrusively so.
รร.ดุสิตธานี กรุงเทพฯ ถ.พระราม 4
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 6 9
FOOD & DRINKS
Mellow
INTERNATIONAL Mellow [MAP3 / Q1]
Park Society
Penny’s Balcony | Thong Lo (Sukhumvit Soi 55), near Soi 16 | BTS Thong Lor 02-382-0065 | www.facebook.com/ mlw.bangkok | 11 am – 1am
With its red brick walls, raw concrete floors and tan leather sofas, Mellow looks great. No doubt this alluring, semi-industrial interior begins to explain why its become one of Thonglor’s busiest after-work spots, but there’s also the neighbourhood bar vibe. Local artists occasionally use the walls and windows as a blank canvas, and in the corner each evening a DJ spins jazz, soul or some other old-school beat at unobtrusive levels. And the food ain’t bad either: American or Italian comfort food with Thai touches mostly, such as the strong but rather yummy deepfried ‘Mellow’ chicken wings marinated in Sriracha (a Thai hot sauce that hails from the coastal city of the same name), cayenne and paprika (B150). Another is an impressive take on calzone. Cutting through this perfectly baked pizza puff reveals a steaming mess of stringy cheesy, tomato and little hooy laay (baby clams) seasoned with local lab spices (B180). A Northeastern dish gone posh, the Australian steak sirloin (B550), comes on a wood chopping board alongside a good jeaw (spicy sauce) and pouch of sticky rice. None of it’s worth going massively out of your way for. However, add the bar side of things – the cocktails, the happy hours (5-8pm everyday), the wine-list, and the vibe – and that all changes.
เมลโล่ เพนนีส์ บัลโคนี ทองหล่อ ซ.16 Park Society [MAP5 / M7]
Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd | 02-624-0000 | Daily 5pm-1am (bar) , 6pm-10pm (restaurant). 7 0 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
The Sofitel So’s signature restaurant is Park Society, a mix of indoor and al fresco dining options with 29th floor views across Lumpini Park to the bright lights of Ratchaprasong. It’s an impressive depiction of Bangkok as a sparkling modern city. And the interior rises to the challenge. A large walk-in kitchen as you enter has a generous chef’s table stacked with cured meats, where you can choose to dine. It leads to a curiously shaped dining space with those beautiful views through full wall windows. The walls themselves and ceiling are rhomboid mirrored panels reflecting Victorian style lamps, hexagonal marble dining tables and waiters in Christian Lacroix-designed, Thai-influenced uniforms, complete with cummerbunds, knee socks and traditional wide-thighed pantaloons. The effect is pleasantly disorienting, like a fairground hall of mirrors. The modern international menu changes daily according to available produce and starts with a mix of stalwart and exclusive items like oysters (six for B700), Hokkaido scallops (B900) and Aran Valley caviar (B4,999 for 30g). Mains are well presented, the off-kilter square plates adorned with smears and blobs of colourful purée are an arty backdrop for dishes like pigeon with gnocchi and baby vegetables (B1,400/half, B2,600/whole). The well chosen wine list, with most bottles between B2,000 and B4,000, has 12 wines and four sparkling by the glass. To finish, there’s a choice of three desserts or cheese plates. The outdoor section doubles as a bar with a lounge soundtrack and, if you don’t want to eat there, is a good stop for aperitifs or
a nightcap. Either way, inside or out, this is a terrific setting for a romantic dinner.
รร.โซฟิเทล โซ ถ.สาธร ROAST [MAP3 / Q2]
2/F, Seenspace, Soi 13, Sukhumvit 55 Thong Lor 02-185-2866 | www.roastbkk.com BTS Thong Lor | Daily 10am-10:30pm
The American feel of Roast is a deliberate attempt by co-owner Varatt VichitVadakhan to replicate the chilled vibe of the east coast cafes he used to visit when living stateside. This theme carries though to the theme of the menu, which has been put together under a banner of ‘New American’. In recent months, there have been a number of places touting this style of cuisine, with many missing the mark in terms of flavour and substance. While some of them can be accused of jumping on the latest Bangkok fad, the Khun Varatt has brought a level of authenticity to his menu. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, Roast attracts a largely expatriate clientele for its brunch menu, including the Roast Breakfast (B350) of eggs any style, crispy bacon, roast potato, homemade sausage patties and duck hash. Between three of us, we ordered this with a bananabacon waffle (B220), Breakfast Croissant Breakfast Sandwich (house-made sausage, eggs over easy, Gouda cheese, B180), and sides of cheese grits (B80) and homemade honey yoghurt (B140). They try to make as much as possible in-house, a policy that extends to roasting their own coffee, hence the name – that retro-looking piece of machinery in the corner is the 430kg Giesen W6, a Dutch made roaster that bangkok101.com
BANGKOK VEGETARIAN FESTIVAL
Saunter down any food-seller street between October 15 and 23 and you’ll notice strings of yellow bunting dangling across many a stall and restaurant front – hard-to-miss signs that the annual tetsakan kin jay (vegetarian festival) has rolled into town. With centuries-old Taoist Chinese origins down in Phuket, this nine day event reaches its climax on the southern island’s streets, with participants partaking in ritual acts of self-flagellation (see p30-31 to read about them, we don’t want to put you off your dinner). But here in Bangkok, these grotesque marches are absent, with many followers merely opting to cut meat out of their diets. Anyone can join them. Lots of Thais do just that, as the festival’s aims of achieving holistic wellness chime with many Buddhists. For the duration it’s not hard to spot them, bypassing their favourite crispy pork belly or guay jup nam sai (offal in peppery broth) stall in search for something tofu or mock meat-based. Even that Thai kitchen staple, fish sauce, gets swapped for soy sauce and mushroom-based equivalents.
Though city-wide, the best place to get your teeth into tetsakan kin jay is Chinatown. As well as feasting on the myriad meat-free dishes prepared and sold at yellow-flagged carts and shops stationed all over – from Charoen Krung road to Talad Noi and Yaowarat Road itself – here you’ll be able to witness the vibrant rituals associated with the practice of jay, including the festival opening, when white-clad devotees raise a lantern pole, and place candles around each of the Nine Emperor Gods. Head over to Chinese temples such as Lengnoeiyi on Charoen Krung Road, or the Tai Hong Kong shrine at the Sam Yan intersection to catch these. You’ll also be to take in live Chinese opera performances; many of the stages scattered around will blare well into the night.
Did you know?
The Chinese Vegetarian Festival begins at the start of the ninth month in the Chinese calendar, and coincides with the autumnal equinox. Why? For the superstitious Chinese and Thais nine signifies good fortune.
Inspired by Isan Exquisite Northeastern Thai Cuisine at
bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 7 1
FOOD & DRINKS
ROAST
equates to heaven for hipster coffee hounds (espresso-based drinks are B80-B140, drip coffees range from B120-B200).
โรสต์ คอฟฟี่ แอนด์ อีทเทอรี่ ทองหล่อ ซ.13
ITALIAN BASILICO [MAP3 / L6]
8 Sukhumvit Soi 33 | BTS Phrom Phong www.basilicopizza.com | 02-662-2323 Mon-Thu 11am-2pm, 5:30pm-11:30pm; Fri-Sun 11:30am-midnight
Bangkok wants for Italian restaurants like the Sahara wants for sand, but Basilico is one of those places that succeeds by concentrating on doing one thing well. Very well. Home to this reviewer’s nomination for best pizza in town, the huge, informal Sukhumvit 33 branch revels in checked tablecloths and more loyal customers than you could shake a giant pepper mill at. The pasta might not be anything to
7 2 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
CALA LA PASTA
tell Mama about, but with something like 50 delectably thin, crispy pizzas on the menu we’ll let that slip. The vast main dining room is ideal for groups and families who can enjoy watching the pizza chefs tossing their pies into the sky, and there’s a quieter back room for those in the mood for amore. There are also other branches on Sukhumvit 20 and Phaholyothin 7.
บาซิลิโค สุขุมวิท ซ.33 CALA LA PASTA [MAP3 / Q1]
Thong Lor Soi 21, 02-185-2199 BTS Thong Lor | 11:30am - 11:30pm
From the same folks behind Pizzeria Bella Napoli on Soi 31, comes a sister outlet devoted to pasta. Known for his insistence on authenticity, owner/operator Claudio Conversi has crafted a pleasing menu of favourite recipes, served up in a warm, welcoming venue. With a vaguely cinematic theme – the walls are lined with classic movie posters – the colour scheme is
orange and cream, with a softly lit (at night, at least) al fresco area out front. The menu lists lots of favourites, but there are also daily specials, conveniently written on a blackboard in the main dining room. We went with starters of mix salumi (a selection of cold cuts, including Parma ham and salami, B320) and the caprese salad (buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil, B320). Classic dishes made with quality ingredients, they summed up the restaurant’s deceptively simple approach. These were then followed by a truly delicious risotto (B300) and a perfectly al dente seafood tagliatelle (B290). Verging on the pleasant side of fullness, we let the chef talk us into trying a slice each of his homemade apple and lemon pies (both B150. Like every other dish, the pastry and fillings were excellent. Cala La Pasta serves quality home-style Italian food, made by an Italian chef with Italian ingredients. Throw in reasonable prices and what’s not to like?
คาลา ลา พาสต้า ทองหล่อ ซ.21
bangkok101.com
VEGETARIAN Na Aroon [map 3 / A 5]
Ariyasom Villa, 65 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Ploenchit 02-254-8880 | www.ariyasom.com 6:30am – 11pm; last order 10pm
Na Aroon
Japanese Benihana [map2 / C10]
Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa 257 Charoen Nakhon Rd | 02-476-0022 bangkok-riverside.anantara.com 11:30am – 2:30pm; 6pm – 10:30pm
By boat from Saphan Taksin is the most relaxing way to travel to Benihana, the newly refurbished Japanese restaurant at the Anantara Resort, which might come in handy as this is far from the most relaxing dinner. Rather, it’s a family-friendly approach that throws in theatrics with the sushi rolls. A pre-meal sake cocktail (B 290++) is a good way to get in the mood. Criss-crossed iron girders divide the sprawling restaurant into several areas, most of which have teppanyaki grill stations that double as a stage from which your server not only cooks your food but also juggles his flippers, forks
bangkok101.com
and pepper pots and performs magic tricks that might delight the kids. Do they hire chefs and train them to be circus acts or the other way round? It’s hard to tell. The food is straightforward Japanese with a few Thai touches to suit the local market, such as a nam phrik dip on the side and Si Racha sauce incorporated into the signature Samurai rolls (B 450++) with Maine lobster tempura, avocado, asparagus and masago, all encrusted with toasted almonds. As your server chops and tosses vegetables to accompany the hibachi Atlantic salmon (B 950++), he chants to himself, rattles salt pots against the grill sides and clatters his metal spatula, which sings through the air, so there’s a soundtrack, too. Benihana is fun dining: great for the kids, but – depending on your taste in women (or men) – not necessarily a romantic date.
Na Aroon serves some of the tastiest reasons we know of for lopping meat out of your diet. One of the most authentically classic dining rooms in town, it’s a bright, woody space where rotating ceiling fans, teardrop chandeliers and tall teak shutters that open on to the hotel’s tropical garden whisk you back to the 1940s (when it was built). The owner David Lees is a wholefood fanatic, always baking up new puddings and tarts and heading up to Or Tor Kor market to source fresh, seasonal ingredients. As for the small matter of a foreigner making local food, David knows a thing or two about Thai food’s medicinal properties, but the purists among you will be pleased to hear that the chef in the kitchen, Khun Karan, is a local. Most things here sound and look tempting, from the quiches to the pad thai malagor (stir-fried raw papaya, instead of the usual noodles, served with a pleasantly sweet tamarind sauce) and delectable (if a tad oversweet) puddings like the apple crumble. Look out also for special menu items such as the khao kluk laab (spicy, stir-fried mushroom and rice, B165++), kuay deow luey suan (fresh vegetable spring rolls served with spicy dipping sauce, B145++), and more participatory dishes that involve a bit of D.I.Y., such as the kanom jeen (soft, lightly fermented rice noodles, B195++).
อริยศรมวิลล่า ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ.1
รร.อนันตรา กรุงเทพฯ ริเวอร์ไซด์ รีสอร์ท แอนด์สปา ถ.เจริญนคร
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 7 3
FOOD & DRINKS
wine bar
Wine Connection by Devid Swartzentruber
- making wine affordable There has been a recent flurry of local and international media attention on the proliferation of wine bars in Bangkok. However, most of these stories seem to neglect the nasty little detail that thanks to the protectionist tax policies of the Thai government, imported as well as local wines are priced out of range for most Thai consumers. One of the UK ’s leading wine magazines, Decanter, in an online story about Thailand’s wine market stated, “After import taxes, municipality tax, health tax and value added tax, the total effective duty and tax burden on a bottle of French wine is over 380%.” What is the Thai government protecting? The domestic spirits industry, of course. This policy is not good for the country’s health and runs contrary to the global trend for adult beverages with moderate alcohol levels. Thailand is the sixth largest spirits consuming country in the world with a per capita consumption of whiskey of more than 7 litres per capita. In spite of this dreary situation for wine in Thailand, over the last decade, one firm, Wine Connection, has been successful at reinvigorating Thailand’s wine market through innovative marketing and savvy pricing. The usual method for a distributor here is to sell its products to stores owned by someone else, but when Frenchman Michel Trocherie arrived in Thailand in 1999, he set up his own wine importing operation and began selling these imports through his own Wine Connection stores. This pioneering alternative model resulting in lower wine prices has proved so popular that Wine Connection now has 34 stores in Southeast Asia with more on the way. In 74 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
the middle of the last decade, Wine Connection began to embrace marketing wine in conjunction with food. And since 2009 Wine Connection has ventured even further into the dining experience by opening five “Deli & Bistro” outlets in the Kingdom. The first in Bangkok was opened in K-Village, Sukhumvit 26 in 2010 and has become a lively, popular place for casual dinner and drinks. And the latest expansion is at lifestyle mall Rain Hill on Sukhumvit 47. A Friday evening visit to this sprawling ‘Tapas Bar & Bistro’ with a glassed-in tropical vibe, a DJ and a wide-ranging tapas menu definitely suggests that the concept is pulling in the under-30s crowd. There is a common misconception in Thailand that wine is only for the wealthy, especially farangs, but blink your eyes here and that myth will be destroyed. Here a nice glass of wine can be found in the B100-B200 range and bottled wines for B750, B900, B1200 and higher. The usual markup for wine at the restaurant level is about three times but Wine Connection has changed that policy. At the K-Village outlet wines are sold at the retail price, while at Sukhumvit 47 there is a mere 20 to 25 % markup. With this cost-cutting approach having caught on, it’s little wonder wine sales increased by 110 % here last year.
โครงการเรนฮิลล์ สุขมุ วิท 47 getting there
Wine Connect ion Tapas Bar & Bistro [MAP3 / P6] 1st F, Rain Hill | Sukhumvit 47 | BTS Phrom Phong 02-261-7217 | www.wineconnection.co.th, facebook: wineconnectiontapasbarbistro | 10 am –1 am bangkok101.com
CUISINE ART
SOUTH: The Temptation of Tastes Ruen Urai, “the House of Gold,” combines fine Thai culinary art with the elegant ambience. Inspired by Thailand’s diverse regions, cultures and lifestyles, our gastronomic creations vary from royal Thai cuisine to refined home-cooking. Our gourmet journey leads on to idyllic islands and lush forests of Southern Thailand. Surrounded by beautiful beaches, the exotic south has been luring ancient seafarers to modern-day travellers. Immigrants from various ethnicities and communities such as Malay, Chinese, and Portuguese traded, settled and cohabited. Their cultural flavours coalesced and created several sub-cultures like the “Nonya.” “Gorlae Chicken Curry” celebrates the tasteful harmony. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Plus happy hours from 3 to 6 p.m. daily. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road, Tel: 66 (0) 2266-8268-72 Fax: 66 (0) 2266-8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com
Thai Gourmet Journey Ad Series No. 4
bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 7 5
Nightlife
7 6 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
The Speakeasy rooftop bar at Hotel Muse, Lang Suan Road
bangkok101.com
nightlife news
dizzying nights DJ Parties Ex-Culture Club front man Boy George performs with his VG Records stable mate Marc Vedo at Levels Club (Aloft hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-7000, www. facebook.com/levelsclub) on October 6. George, who sold 100 million singles with Culture Club, sneaked into the DJ Mag Top 100 at #90 in 2011, while Veda was voted Best Breakthrough DJ 2012. Tickets are B1,000 from info@retoxsessions.com or on the door. There’s an open bar from 9.30pm-10.30pm, later arrivals get one free drink. Jazz & Blues There’s been a shake-up to the long standing schedules at the Living Room, in the Sheraton Grande hotel (250 Sukhumvit Rd, 02-649-8353, www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com). Pianist Randy Cannon leads his trio, including ex-James Brown drummer Erik Hargrove and bassist Therdsak Wongvichien, from Thursday to Sunday from 9.15pm, until October 31. Singaporean pianist Kerong Chok plays with a trio from Monday to Wednesday. The Italian Luca Ciarla Quartet play Mediterranean jazz at Niu’s on Silom (661 Silom Rd, 02-266-5333, www.niusonsilom.com) on October 10 and 25. The unusual line-up of violin, accordion, bass and percussion invoke gypsy rhythms in a repertoire that moves from Dizzy Gillespie through Bach to traditional and original tunes. Admission is free. There’s more info on www.lucaciarla.com. Coming soon: Apoteka Though Soi 11 fatigue is setting in, Apoteka (www.facebook.com/apotekanbangkok), just across from Q Bar, has piqued our interest. The venue, they say, will have a “19th century laboratory vibe”; the ethos is all about “service, atmosphere and great banter”; the “potions” designed to “stimulate, inoculate or intoxicate”; and the food they’re calling “radical gastro nibbles.” Quite what we make of it we won’t know until we roll in, but for sure we’ll be one of the first to do so. Due date: late October. Coming Soon: Culture One 2012 The city’s only proper outdoor dance music festival, Culture One, returns on November 17 for its fifth installment. As usual the venue is lakeside at the Bangkok International Trade and Exhibition Centre (BITEC) and the line-up leans heavily on trance, techno and house DJs from home and abroad. Headliners this year include Dash Berlin from Holland and UK dance music progenitors 808 State. The dancer from the Happy Mondays, Bez will also be on stage shaking his maracas. Tickets (standard B2,000, VIP B3,000) can be bought in advance from the recently relocated Club Culture (Silom Plaza, Narathiwat intersection) or online at www.we-booking. com. Find out more at www.facebook.com/cultureone or by calling 08-9497-8422. bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 7 7
Nightlife
bar review
The Alchemist
- a stylishly stripped-down watering hole When we first heard a Paulo Coelho novel inspired hole-in-the-wall had opened up on Soi 11, we cringed a little. But, having discovered that it’s not at all new age, and grown fond of the place since it opened a few months ago, The Alchemist has become one of our Soi 11 go-to bars, especially on those nights when we’re out, but not for a big one.
Sukhumvit. Especially popular are the cinnamon mojitos, while punters with fond memories of their gap-year spent sipping buckets on Khao San or Had Rin beach like to indulge in one of The Alchemist’s “classier” lychee or blackcurrent-flavoured variants (B400).
Fitting somewhere between the swank cocktail bars that double up as pick-up joints and the rickety dive bar aesthetic of the legendary Cheap Charlie’s, which it neighbours, it’s a stylishly stripped down drinking hole. Nothing more, nothing less.
Signatures include potions such as ‘The Secret Garden’: a tall glass of vodka, coriander, ginger, lemongrass, passsionfruit and ginger ale (B220). Happily, all of the tipples come in quite a bit cheaper than at the swankier joints, and without the plus plus service charge and government tax that turns even the sweetest deals sour.
We approve, and so too, it seems, do the punters. Not only does it attract the spill-over from Cheap Charlie’s, it also draws a loyal crowd of its own, who savour the intimate atmosphere, occasional live music, proper his and her toilets (Cheap Charlie’s are infamous for their ‘noshitting’ sign) and, above all, well-priced drinks.
Run by two former radio jocks, Saloni and Tapanee, The Alchemist is a friendly neighbourhood bar with style but no pretence, with flair but modest prices. If there’s a weak point it’s the lack of a proper food menu, but, in an admirable display of Soi 11 togetherness, you can order in from one of the many neighbouring restaurants.
We’d be happy if they just served the usual assortment of beers, shots and mixers, but the bartenders here also get creative, something that seems to go down especially well on the weekends, when the place is usually packed. Currently rocking the drinks list are assorted martinis (dry, passionfruit and espresso), classic cocktails, random shooters, and some of the best mojitos this side of 7 8 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
ดิ อัลเคมิส สุขุมวิท ซ.11
getting there
The Alchemist [MAP3 / c5] 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 083-549-2055 | www.facebook.com/thealchemistbkk Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight bangkok101.com
club review
Levels
- taking sukhumvit party-goers higher Levels has to be admired for its chutzpah. As every Sukhumvit partier knows, Bed Supperclub and Q Bar have been the all-reigning Soi 11 night palaces for over a decade now, and both are very slick operators, so entering the fray takes some guts. Others clubs have attempted to join the party (anyone remember Twisted Republic?) and failed. Our opinion on the matter: the more the merrier. More choice is a good thing, or so modernity would have us believe. And besides, there’s nothing like a bit of competition to keep a party scene dynamic and fresh. Located on the annex building of the Aloft Hotel, directly opposite Bed, entry is via a lift. Step out of it and you emerge out on to the semi-open air terrace lit by a glowing bar. In our opinion, the banquettes to the left of it backed by a plate glass barrier, the street visible 50 metres or so below, are one of the best perches on the soi. The DJ here spins laid-back sounds (and is joined by a saxophonist and bongos on Saturday), everyone mingles over beers and martinis, and if Levels ended here we really wouldn’t mind. Our second favourite spot is the circular bar, located past the doors, at the top of three steps that lead you into the high-ceilinged, hangar-like main room. With a giant chandelier that resembles the tentacles of a jellyfish dangling overhead and backlighting turning everyone ordering drinks a shade of pink neon, it’s ostentatious and 1980s-style overthe-top and we like it. Why? This part of the club transports bangkok101.com
us to the disco scene from a Hollywood movie set in louche, yuppie-era New York (think Cocktail or American Psycho). Bear with us, but we can imagine Tom Cruise or Patrick Bateman sweet talking a babe here while bodies gyrate in the sea of neon and lasers around them. The rest of the club hasn’t made such a big impression on us, yet. At the far end of the main room, a DJ spins house music in front of a tiered danceflooor spotted with tables and podiums. Dancers step up to get the crowd going. Overlooking it all is a VIP section that isn’t open yet. And out back, there’s a low-ceilinged, more intimate room that opens up later. It was fairly dead on our visit but, with the focus on the DJ and impressive lighting, it’s certainly primed and ready for some hands-in-the-air action. Levels has a few rough edges and already has its fans and its haters, but certainly there’s a nook for every Soi 11 socialite or house-head out there. Come hit up the very enticing Friday or Saturday happy hour (B500 for an open bar until 11pm) and make up your own mind.
เลเวลส์ รร.เอลอฟท์ แบงคอก สุขุมวิท ซ.11 getting there
LEVELS [MAP3 / c5] 6th Floor, Aloft Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08-2308-3246 9pm -3am daily | www.levelsclub.com, Facebook: Levels oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 7 9
Nightlife
BED SUPPERCLUB
Q bar
Nightclubs BED SUPPERCLUB [ma p3 / C4]
26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-3537 www.bedsupperclub.com | 7:30 pm-1 am
With its uber-modern oval spaceship design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely successful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past eight years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over top-notch talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Big-name DJs tend to spin on Thursdays.
เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ สุขุมวิท ซ.11 DEMO [map3 / R1]
Thong Lor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970 | 8 pm-1 am | free
Easily the grittiest discoteca in the swish Thong Lor area is Demo: a squat former tenement building turned graffiti daubed brick warehouse. Featuring a terrace and bar outside, and lots of dark corners inside, not only does it look like a venue you’d find in East London or some other hipster-ville; it sounds like one, too: instead of the usual mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast zeitgeisty nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system.
เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ.10 Funky Villa [MAP3 / R1]
cm2
GLOW [Map3 / G5]
96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 www.glowbkk.com | 6 pm-1 am
This boutique club / bar challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of underground electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-tonight but always excludes hip-hop (hurrah!). For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool website.
โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ.23 MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [map4 / h4]
B1 F, President Tower Arcade (next to Gaysorn Plaza), 973 Ploenchit Rd www.mixxdiscotheque.com | B 350 | 10 pm until late
Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, as long as things go smoothly, the chance to party until nearly sunrise.
มิกซ์ ดิสโก้เทค กรุงเทพฯ ถ.เพลินจิต ROUTE 66 [Map8 / Q12]
29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | MRT Phetchaburi | www.route66club.com B200 foreigners incl. drink / free for Thais
The name Funky Villa conjures images of roller-blading babes in bikinis, all partying at a Hugh Hefner-owned villa in the Med. The reality’s different. Steer your way through the fairground-sized car park, past the BMWs and chic lounge-deck area, and you’ll hit a swish one-storey house, more posh than funky. Some of Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls around in the front room; but most hit the fridgecool dancehall to boogie away the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs. Forget about edgy sounds – here it’s all about getting down with the CEOs of tomorrow.
Rammed with hordes of dressed-to-kill young Thais on most nights of the week, ‘Route’, as it is affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, all-lasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands bang out hits in ‘The Novel’. Route is not a good place to lose your friends but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area. One sore point: unlike the locals, foreigners are charged a B200 entry fee (but get a free drink).
ฟังกี้ วิลล่า ทองหล่อ ซ.10
รูท 66 อาร์ ซี เอ
Thong Lor Soi 10 | BTS Thong Lor 08-5253-2000 | 6 pm-2 am |
8 0 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
ST.Regis bar
TAPAS [Map5 / J 5]
Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Silom 02-632-7982 | www.tapasroom.net | 8 pm-2am
On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Weeknights are very quiet, but weekends are always hopping from about midnights onwards. And if it’s not, there’s the outside terrace: a good spot for cocktails and some of the best people watching in town. The tipples are mixed strong, and watching this soi’s comings and goings an eye-opening experience to say the least. The B200 entry fee on Fridays and Saturdays includes a drink.
ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 THE CLUB [Map7 / F 5]
123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 02-629-1010 www.theclubkhaosan.com | 6 pm-2 am B 100 (incl. one drink)
The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret lend a fairytale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to mid 1990s psy-trance raves. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, usually cranium-rattling electro house and techno. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.
เดอะคลับ ข้าวสาร Q BAR [Map3 / C4]
34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 www.qbarbangkok.com | 8 pm-1 am
Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with big name international DJs appearing regularly. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife twelve years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now, there’s more room to dance and more lounge space, especially at QUP, the more downtempo upstairs area. Some relative bangkok101.com
solitude and a pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found up here and on the outdoor terrace, which is perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack. Ladies get free entry on Wednesday nights – and two free drinks!
คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ.11
hotel bars & clubs BARSU [map3 / F 6, 7]
1st F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 www.barsubangkok.com | 6 pm-2 am
The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, there are five live bands for each night of the week. Comprised of students from Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Jazz, Tenon Round’ are a gifted young quartet who perform every Tuesday from 8 to 10pm. The other bands, JazzPlayground, P.O.8, Rhythm Nation and Hot Gossip, play from Wednesday to Saturday respectively. In between sets, the multi-talented DJ D’Zier spins an infectious blend of house, r&b, soul, latin and whatever else keeps you movin’. As well as creative cocktails (our pick: the tom yum yum - a cold cocktail version of the iconic hot and spicy soup), a ‘Night Bites’ menu of delicious premium finger food is also on hand to keep those energy levels up.
รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท สุขุมวิท 12 CM2 [map4 / D5]
B1 F, Novotel Siam Square |392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-209-8888 www.cm2bkk. Com | 10 pm – 2 am
The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s subterranean party cave still packs them in
bangkok101.com
sixteen years after it first opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. The big and quite 1980s disco looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) complex has lots of lounging space facing the dancefloor, plus a sports bar with pool tables, smoking room, and an Absolut Vodka Lounge. It’s mainstream all the way. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it, usually the latest electro, funky house or hip-grinding R&B tune, while the rotating line-up of live bands from Canada, Europe and Asia perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition. International / Thai food and a huge cocktail list is served, as is what they claim is Bangkok’s biggest pour – all drinks feature double shots for no extra charge. Stalk their Facebook page for news of their popular monthly theme parties and drinks promotions.
รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ ซ.6 ST. REGIS BAR [map4 / G 7]
W XYZ [MAP3 / D6]
Aloft Bangkok | 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana 02-207-7000 | alofthotels.com/bangkoksukhumvit11
The funky Aloft hotel is going after Soi 11’s club crowd craving warm-up cocktails with W XYZ, their laidback lounge bar on the lobby floor mezzanine. This colourful space featuring funky modular furniture, colour changing glass pane floors, and lots of vivid LED lighting has a talented mixologist who specialises in ‘molecular’ cocktails made using all manner of gels, powders, foams and spray mists. More reasons to swing by W XYZ include decent finger foods and Thai-style tapas, the happy hours (50% off select drinks and snacks between 5 – 7:30 pm daily), and Tuesday’s Pod Play session, when you get to pump your own iPod through the speakers.
รร.เอลอฟท์ แบงคอก สุขุมวิท ซ.11
Bars with views Above Eleven [MAP3 / C4]
12th F, St. Regis Bangkok Hotel 159 Rajadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri 02-207-7777 | www.stregis.com Mo-Fr 10 am-1 am, Sat & Sun 10 am-2 am
33rd Fl Frasers Suite Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana 02-207-9300 | www.aboveeleven.com 6pm-2am
At 6:30 pm each day a butler struts out onto the terrace of The St. Regis Bar, a saber in one hand, a bottle of Moet & Chandon in the other. He then flicks at the collar until ‘pop!’, the cork flies off and bubbly spurts gently out onto the terrace. Come for this, stay for the view. Stretching along a plate glass window, the rectangle venue – with its suave masculine vibe, long bar, clubby sofas and high-ceilings – eyeballs the city’s Royal Bangkok Sports Club. It’s a lovely spot at sunset, even better on every second Sunday afternoon, when you can spy on the horseracing with a fine malt whisky in hand.
A west-facing 33rd floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, Above Eleven is a winning combination. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on. Tip: choose a seat on the north side – it gets windy to the south. There’s a great view, an impressive cocktail list, an electro soundtrack with special DJ nights on Wednesday (Salsa), Friday (Hip Hop) and Saturday (House), and this is Bangkok’s only Peruvian restaurant, a cuisine with a bit of worldwide buzz. It will suit the adventurous.
รร. เดอะ เซนต์ รีจิส กรุงเทพฯ ถ.ราชดำ�ริ
เฟรเซอร์ สวีทส์ สุขุมวิท สุขุมวิท ซ.11
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 8 1
Nightlife
long table
AMOROSA [Map7 / C 12]
4th F, Arun Residence Hotel |36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd (near Wat Po) 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com 6 pm-1 am
Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, soursweet cocktails and a so-so wine list. The showstopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, guests gaze out from its balcony terrace onto the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn, on the banks beyond. Go before sundown and enjoy watching the sun sink slowly behind it. Or come later, when amber floodlights make it glow against the night sky.
อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช LONG TABLE [Map3 / H8]
25th F, 48 Column Bldg | Sukhumvit Soi 16 BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit | 02-302-2557-9 www.longtablebangkok.com | 11 am-2:00 am
Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing that draws Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar. There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – wide-screen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.
อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16 MOON BAR [Map5 / K, l8]
61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 www.banyantree.com | 5 pm-1 am
This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or 8 2 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
nest
a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.
รร.บันยันทรี ถ.สาทรใต้ NEST [Map3 / C4]
9th F, Le Fenix | 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 BTS Nana | 02-305-4000 www.lefenixsukhumvit.com | 5 pm-2 am
An all-white and urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, Nest is a loungey and laid-back spot on weekdays and early evenings, with couples enjoying signature martinis and upmarket nibbles from the comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nestshaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially during special party nights. These include MODE, a shindig every second Saturday of the month that pumps hip-hop and house beats rather than the usual smooth Balearic sounds. What are the views alike? With buildings looming above you, not below you, here you feel part of the cityscape rather than detached from it.
เลอฟินิกซ์ สุขุมวิท ซ.11 PHRANAKORN BAR [map7 / G6]
Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd. 02-622-0282 | 6pm-1am
Only a five minute walk from Khao San Road, multi-level Phranakorn Bar is an old favourite of local art students and creatives, mostly for its indie/80s/90s worshipping playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views, over old-city rooftops, towards the floodlit Golden Mount temple. The booze and Thai food is cheap, as is most of the modern art hanging on the second floor. Tried to find it before but failed? You wouldn’t be the first. From the Burger King end of Khao San Road, turn right onto Ratchadamnoen, right again and it’s down the first soi on your left hand-side.
พระนครบาร์ ซ.ดำ�เนินกลางใต้ ถ.ราชดำ�เนิน RED SKY [Map4 / F 3]
56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | BTS Chit Lom / Siam | 02-100-1234 www.centarahotelresorts.com | 5 pm-1 am
Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a
the speakeasy
rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slow-cooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. It’s not cheap, but the daily happy hours (50% off selected wines, beers and cocktails between 5-7pm) help.
รร.เซ็นทาร่าแกรนด์ แอทเซ็นทรัลเวิลด์ ถ.พระราม 1 The Speakeasy [MAP4 / J6]
Hotel Muse | 55/555 Lang Suan Rd 02-630-4000 | www.hotelmusebangkok.com 6 pm-1 am
One of the newest al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. A long international snack menu stands out for decent portions at reasonable prices; spirits (from B 270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B300-B600 a glass, while cocktails (from B 290) include home-made vodka infusions.
รร.โฮเทล มิวส์ ซ.หลังสวน SKY BAR / DISTI L [map5 / C5]
63rd F, State Tower | 1055 Silom Rd 02-624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com 6 pm-1 am
Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Sky bar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seafood eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 sports yet another stunning view from the 51st – 52nd floors. These places are definitely not spots for the casual beach bum, so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart casual dress code is enforced.
สเตททาวเวอร์ สีลม bangkok101.com
BARS BARLEY BISTRO [map C4]
4/F Food Channel, Silom Road | BTS Sala Daeng | 087-033-3919 | daily 5pm-late www.barleybistro.com
Hidden up some stairs at the Food Channel, an enclave of franchise-like restaurants, Barley Bistro is slick and snazzy. The design is chic (blacks and greys, white-on-black stencil art); the drinks funky (lychee mojitos, testtube cocktails etc); the food new-fangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the clientele wholesome (Thai office workers mostly). Do check out the open-air rooftop. Though not quite worthy of our ‘Bars with a View’ section – it’s boxed in by buildings – it’s littered with cooling fans, huge bean bags and funky barley-stalk sculptures and good for postwork/ pre-club cocktails. Live bands play in the bar most nights.
บาร์ลี่ย์บิสโทร ฟู้ดชาแนล ถ.สีลม CAFÉ TRIO [map4 / H6]
36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | BTS Chit Lom 02-252- 6572 | 6 pm-1 am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sun of the month
Cafe Trio is just about the only bar worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Tucked down a narrow alley just off the upmarket residential street, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and has plastered the walls with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnamese inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and head 50m down the road.
คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน
bangkok101.com
cheap charlie‘s
CHEAP CHARLIE’S [map3 / D6]
Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-253-4648 Mon-Sat 5 pm-midnight
This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little sub-soi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.
ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก) CLOUDS [Map3 / Q2]
1st F, SeenSpace | 251/1 Thong Lor Soi 13, (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | BTS Thong Lo 02-185-2365 | www.cloudslounge.com
The third bar by Australian Ashley Sutton – the mad scientist of Bangkok’s bar scene – is, as we’ve come to expect, something entirely unexpected. Evoking a future where ‘there are no more natural resources’, this slim concrete shell at the rear of hip lifestyle mall SeenSpace has a living tree encased in glass in one corner, and concrete blocks, topped with lumps of translucent leaf-encasing acrylic, for tables. Vodka-based
clouds
cocktails (B 280) by New York mixultant Joseph Boroski are prepped by ‘NASA technicians’ in white overalls; and the food offerings tasty misshapen pizzas, cooked in a gas-oven behind the bar and served in steel trays. A lively crowd-puller with indoor and outdoor seating, the result is enjoyably bizarre: think space-station drinking hole.
คลาวด์ โครงการการซีสเปซ ซ.ทองหล่อ 13 ESCAPADE [MAP7 / E3]
112 Pra-Artit Rd, Pranakorn | 08-7363-2629, 08-1406-3773 | Tue-Sun 12pm-12am www.facebook.com/escaburgersandshakes
Unlike most bars in the Khao San Road area, the owners of this bohemian hole-in-the-wall, Khun Karn and Khun Van, are the sorts of locals you might actually strike up a conversion with. Karn, a former bartender at the ShangriLa and Mandarin Oriental, mixes creative, tasty and strong cocktails to order for only B140-B200. Tell him your wildest alcoholsodden fantasies and he’ll deliver you the tipple of your dreams in minutes. Van, meanwhile, rustles up lip smacking bar grub: hot dogs buried in jalapeno peppers and sizzling bacon; baskets of honey-glazed deep-fried chicken, etc. Perhaps the most memorable thing about Escapade, though, are its proportions: you have to squeeze past strangers to enter, a quirk which makes it more intimate than most.
เอสกาเพด เบอร์เกอร์ แอนด์ เชค ถ.พระอาทิตย์
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 8 3
Nightlife
face bangkok
marshmallow
FACE BANGKOK [Map3 / S7]
29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | BTS Thong Lo 02-713-6048 | www.facebars.com 11:30 am-1 am
Jim Thompson, move over. Face’s visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim’s former mansion, with Ayutthaya-style buildings and thriving flora, it’s just bigger and bolder. The Face Bar is a dimly-lit place that summons deluxe drinkers with its cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails. Though often empty, the big drink list will stop your body clock pretty fast. The three restaurants – Hazara serving Northern Indian, Misaki serving Japanese, and Lan Na Thai serving traditional Thai – are full of fab all-Asian decor; they’re romantic and inviting, but you might be let down by the tiny portions, and the flamboyant prices. Stay in the Bar and order from the snack menu instead. And have another Japanese Slipper.
เฟซแบงคอก สุขุมวิท ซ.38 FAT GUT’Z [map3 / Q2]
264 Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor) 027-149-832 | www.fatgutz.com | 6 pm-2 am
This sleek saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people, there to listen to live blues, indulge in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious sense of whimsy – here, the random fittings and industrial decor are replaced by straight lines and black-coloured, modern furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought in master New York mixologist Joseph Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 each), all named after famous WWII shipwrecks. This nautical theme loosely ties in with the short menu, from which the most popular dish is, of course, the fish ‘n’ chips (B320 for one person, B600 for two).
แฟท กัซ สุขุมวิท ซ.55 FIVE Gastronomy & Mixology [MAP3 / O9]
Room 103, K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26 BTS Phrom Phong | 088-524-5550 www.facebook.com/fivebkk | 6pm-1am daily
Five brings a welcome wand blast of gothic whimsy to K Village, an otherwise aesthetically uninspiring community mall. Its owner, Pattriya Na Nakorn, invited bar entrepreneur Ashley Sutton to work his magic with a vacant plot on the ground floor. And, completing 8 4 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
oskar bistro
her dream team is Joseph Boroski, the same New York based cocktail ‘mixologist’ that Sutton uses. His bars always engage the day-dreamy part of your brain and this black magic themed one is no different. Think clanking pulleys, monumental iron piping and flickering candles. Indeed, even the staff look like they’ve stumbled off the set of Harry Potter. Creepily-monikered eats include fried bat wings (herb-coated chicken wings). And Boroski potions worth necking include the Prescription Brandy Suzerac: a strong, earthy mix of Italian brandy, lime, honey and cinnamon served in a small poison bottle. It’s not cheap, but Five casts an intoxicating spell.
ไฟว์ เควิลเลจ สุขุมวิท 26 HYDE & SEEK [Map4 / L5]
65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee BTS Phloen Chit | 02-168-5152 www.hydeandseek.com | 11 am-1 am
This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pick-meup cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgianinfluenced décor has paneled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini-maze of tea plants to partition dining areas.
แอนธินีเรซซิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี MARSHMALLOW [map3 / C5]
33/18 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana 02-254-1971 | Facebook: Marshmallow | 11 am-1 am
Occupying the corner building where Sukhumvit 11 turns left towards Q Bar, this gastro bar has a raised terrace that wraps around its perimeter, beside tall steel and glass doors that are fully retractable. Dark wood-planks line the walls and pillars; there’s a metalwork-backed bar; and a bohemian touch, bird cage lamps, dangling over the tables at one end. Cocktails come in at a very reasonable B190; champagne and sparkling cocktails B 220; local beers B90. “Food was never meant to be the focus,” the partner Fred Jungo, a resident DJ at nearby Bed Supperclub, told us.
tuba
However, judging by the dishes we tucked in to – a bright and fresh haloumi cheese salad, a slab of Australian tenderloin with mash and boiled veg (B 550) – it could become their forte. An affordable and brilliantly located (in Soi 11 clubber terms) spot for drinks and bites.
มาร์ชเมลโล่ สุขุมวิท ซ.11 OSKAR BISTRO [map3 / D5]
24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-255 3377 4 pm-2 am; kitchen open till 11:30 pm
Lively Oskar has the electro music and low ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby; and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. The food choice includes sandwiches, the Oskar burger (wagyu beef – what else?), pizzas and a section of cocottes. Almost all are under B300, which for food of this surprising quality is a steal. Most people come here though not for the food but for a pre-club libation or two: be it glass of wine (from B145 a glass), imported bottle beer, or reasonably priced cocktail. Close to Bed Supperclub and Q Bar, its own ambient, loungey sounds crank up as the night matures, and – although there’s no dance space – many of the mixed Thai-farang crowd are happy to linger. It’s a good meal and drinks option for a date or business, but also a lively pick-up joint without the pressure of full-on dress-to-kill. Book ahead if you want a table.
ออสการ์ บิสโทร สุขุมวิท ซ.11 ROLLING BAR [Map7 / J5]
Wanchat Rd | 081-867-6568 Mon-Sat 6 pm-2 am
A big lit up marquee sign on Wanchat Road beckons you to find out what is going on below the street line. Descend a few stairs and in a quiet corner by the water you will find Rolling Bar, a small open space filled with a mixed assortment of retro decor and various model Cadillac cars. Here, every night you can hear familiar old folk and rock covers unplugged. The bar draws a mixed crowd all in the comfort of T-shirts and jeans and ready to throw back a couple of drinks. The menu’s got all the popular Thai favourites, but the bar offers you a little bit more. Owner Khun Sheeva has whipped up his own personal sweet rum, Sheeva Wop; a must try.
โรลลิ่งบาร์ ริมสะพานเฉลิมวันชาติ TUBA [Map8 / S14]
34 Room 11-12A, Soi Cham Chun (Ekkamai Soi 21) | 02-711-5500 www.design-athome.com | 11 am-2 am
Owned by the same hoarders behind furniture bangkok101.com
the iron fairies
warehouse Papaya, Tuba is a Bangkok classic: room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch, all of which you’re free to skulk through at your leisure. Some come here to snag a comfy sofa, retro sign or goofy tchotchke. Others come for the big menu of Italian and Thai dishes tweaked for the local palate. But for us, it works best as a bar, as the setting and generous happy hours (buy one get one free between 5-8pm daily) mean there really are few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand (or two hands in some cases – the glassware can be that big!). A word to the wise: one glass too many and you may leave with more than you bargained for. Another caveat: smokers are allowed to puff away.
ทูบา ถ.สุขุมวิท 63 (เอกมัย 21) THE IRON FAIRIEs [Map3 / Q2]
394 Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55), Thong Lor Soi 12 | BTS Thong Lo 084-520-2301 | www.theironfairies.com
Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is a functioning iron foundry that just happens to serve booze. Drawing heavily from the steampunk genre, it has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam film-set. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the cast-iron spiral staircase. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a well mixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the burgers, served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, divine. The moneyed Thong Lor set fill it nightly.
ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ SALT [MAP8 / L7]
Soi Ari (near Soi 4) | 02-619-6886 6pm-midnight (closed Tuesdays)
Worth heading to Soi Ari for, Salt is a hipsterluring gastro bar with a post-modern finish. Seating is either out on an outdoor terrace or in a minimalist concrete shell – a former condominium sales office no less – with a bar at the far end and lots of raw marble, stone and wooden furniture. Behind them sits an old wooden house which is used to project digital animations on and offers extra seating. This is the sort of uber-trendy space that the editors of Wallpaper* and other design bibles kneel down and kiss the floor at, but what makes Salt is the global cuisine that’s coming out the kitchen, from fresh sashimi platters to generously dressed thin-crust pizzas cooked in a proper wood fire. Creative concoctions like the Bangkok Mule (a long bangkok101.com
viva aviv
glass of Mekong rum, brown sugar, ginger ale and diced raw lemongrass) are the work of one of the mixologists from Soi Ruam Rudee’s designer cocktail bar Hyde & Seek.
ซอล์ท ซ.อารีย์ SHADES OF RETRO [Map8 / s14]
Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor | BTS Thong Lo 081-824-8011 | 3 pm-1 am | cash only
Hipster attic, here we come – Shades of Retro is a hidden Thong Lor spot awash in neonostalgia and stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, old rotary telephones. A combo furniture store-café,Shades provides a quiet hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd by day, funpeople-watching at night, and nice jazz at all times. Curl up on a nubby couch, flip through a Wallpaper* magazine and soak up the atmosphere, which flirts with being too ironic for its pants. A cool, friendly crowd and bracing cocktails or coffee served up with popcorn humanizes the hip, thankfully.
เฉดส์ ออฟ เรโทร ซ.ธารารมย์ 2 ทองหล่อ VIVA AVIV [map5 / C2]
River City-Unit 118 | 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 02-639-6305 | www.vivaaviv.com 11am-midnight, later on weekends
Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade, inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic look, the bar is being looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek. Their ‘Rough Cut’ Signatures, many of them underpinned with rum (tequila is so last year, apparently), come in slightly cheaper than over at Hyde & Seek, B250. Food is also served; our favourite dish the risotto-filled croquet balls with yoghurt dip.
อาคารริเวอร์ซิตี้ เจริญกรุง ซ.30 WONG’S PLACE [Map8 / L17]
27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen, Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | MRT Lumpini 02-286-1558 | Mon-Sat 10 pm-late
It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serve-yourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal
WT F
crowd of expat journalists, English teachers, hipsters, creative Thais and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s usually pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom – and watch the night unfold.
วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี WTF [Map3 / Q6]
7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | BTS Thong Lo 02- 626-6246 | www.wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6 pm-1 am / gallery from 3 pm
This tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. It works. The Thaifarang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. Expect occasional live gigs, art exhibitions upstairs and a mix of indie hipsters, journos and artscensters to chew the fat with.
ดับเบิลยู ทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ.51
LIVE MUSIC ADHERE the 13TH [Map7 / G3]
13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) 089- 769-4613 | 5 pm-midnight |
Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except forthe Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ’em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California.
แอดเฮีย 13 ถ.สามเสน บางลำ�ภู oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 8 5
Nightlife SAXOPHONE PUB [Map8 / K10]
3 / 8 Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Victory Monument 02-246-5472 | www.saxophonepub.com 6 pm-2 am
saxophone pub
BRICK BAR [Map7 / G6]
265 Khaosan Rd | 02-629-4477 www.brickbarkhaosan.com Mon-Sun 7 pm-1am | Mon-Thu free / Fri-Sat B150 incl. one drink
Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy red brick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshfaced twentysomethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.
บริคบาร์ ถ.ข้าวสาร COSMIC CAFE [Map8 / Q12]
RCA Block C | Rama IX Rd | MRT Rama 9
The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café serves up a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in a grungy, open-sided corner bar with outdoor seating and a small dance floor. On one night you might the place jumping to a rare live performance by mor lam legend Dao Bandon, on another a house band dishing out some surf guitar, ska, electronic or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it draws a lively, musically discerning crowd, from skinny jeaned art-school hipster types to teddy boy expats. An insider’s must.
คอสมิค คาเฟ่ อาร์ซีเอ The Overstay [MAP8 / A7]
80-82 Charan Sanit Wong, next to Pinklao Soi 40 02-883-4836 | www.theoverstay. com
Known amongst the backpacking community as the cheapest but scuzziest hostel in Bangkok, The Overstay is also the city’s most underground bar and music venue. Located in Thonburi, on the west side of the river, its crude graffiti art and poetry splashed walls reverberate nightly with a veritable mish mash of alternative roots and bass driven styles, with a sound to every ilk of countercultural misfit out there, from dreadlocked ravers to self-styled indie chicks and even mohawked punks on occasions. Visitors can interact with squatters and sundry lost souls from every corner of the world; and beers costs a mere B50 a bottle (remember that when you see the toilets).
เดอะ โอเวอร์สเตย์ ถ.จรัลสนิทวงศ์ PARKING TOYS [MAP2 / G5]
17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin | Highway, 8 6 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
sonic
Bang Khen | (pier 135-136 on left hand side) Lat Phrao district | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) 02-907-2228 | 6 pm-1am
Inside this ex-garage out in the northern suburbs it’s pure sensory overload. Wallto- wall retro furniture becomes instant eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae, electronic, rockabilly, and metal. It’s a hike and not easy to find, but worth it.
ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์ THE ROCK PUB [Map4 / C2]
93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phaya Thai Rd, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30 pm-2 am
If Def Leppard, Aerosmith or Wayne and Garth were in town you’d find them reliving the glory years here, at Bangkok’s very own Castle of Rock. A tacky faux-turret exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride you’ve stumbled on, while inside local metal bands sporting Brian May hairdos and crotch-hugging jeans thrash out note-perfect renditions of everything from Black Sabbath to Sweet Child O’Mine and Motorhead’s Ace of Spades. Fans of the extended drum interlude or lightening fast guitar solo will not be disappointed – or able to resist doing the Devil’s Horn.
เดอะ ร็อคผับ RAINTREE PUB [Map8 / K10]
116 / 63 - 34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd BTS Victory Monument | 02-245-7230, www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am
This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970’s folk protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30 pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11 pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.
เรนทรีผับ ซ.ร่วมจิต ถ.รางน้ำ�
Just a stone’s throw from the Victory Monument Skytrain Station, this cozy, unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. Attracting youngish Thais and the odd foreigner, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its homey, low-ceilinged, woodfilled floors. Each night, two talented Thai bands belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk and R&B while the crowd feasts on hearty Thai and Western fare. All the local live music scene greats have played here and many still pop by when they can.
แซ๊กโซโฟนผับ ถ.พญาไท Sonic [MAP3 / T2]
90 Ekamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) |BTS Ekamai 02-382-3396 | facebook: sonic.ekamai 6 pm-2 am
Hip, mural-splattered Sonic is dedicated to bringing you assorted musical jollies. Not the same old Thai bands or David Guetta wannabes, but nights that sit at the more alternative end of the spectrum, with a tilt toward the indie side. There’s a big semioutdoor seating area with DJ booth, an indoor bar and deeper in is the main room. On quieter nights stools and tables fill this high-ceilinged, warehouse-like space with a bar in one corner and funky brass lamps dangling overhead, but for gigs and other crowd-pullers they strip it bare. Since opening, Sonic has blasted its way into the affections of the city’s hard-to-please nightlife clans with a string of unusual live gigs and themed nights. See their Facebook page for the next.
โซนิค ซ.เอกมัย (ระหว่าง ซ.10 และบิ๊กซี) TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY [MAP2 /E11]
462 / 61 Rama III Rd | Yan Nawa district 02- 678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th
The one place that every taxi driver seems to know, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall packs in the revelers nightly. They come for the towers of micro-brewed beer, the Thai, Chinese and German grub (especially the deep-fried pork knuckle and sausage), and, not least, the famous Fong Nam houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by 10pm, when the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt, everybody is on their feet and the place going bananas. Great for large groups, especially birthday par ties and office outings, but make sure you reserve ahead for the best tables nearest the stage.
โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3
Jazz clubs BAMBOO BAR [Map5 / B4]
The Oriental Bangkok | 48 Oriental Ave 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com Sun-Thu 11 am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11 am-2 am bangkok101.com
This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s never theless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident songstress, Cynthia Utterbach. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bar tenders and served by a superb staff. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon. A definite big Bangkok must.
รร.โอเรียลเต็ล ถ.โอเรียลเต็ล Brown Sugar [Map7 / J5]
469 Phrasumen Road | 089-499-1378 www.brownsugarbangkok.com | 6 pm-1 am
Little over a month after it closed down, one of Bangkok’s oldest cosiest jazz venue was back with a new, bigger location near Khao San. Now a restaurant and coffee house by day, it morphs into a world-class, jazz café-style haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw an audience of locals and visitors by night. Its exterior is impressive, resembling, with its huge neon signage and manual readerboard, a ritzy old cinema house. And inside, it’s huge, with a daytime coffeeshop up front, a versatile 200-seater ‘Playhouse’ upstairs, and, past a long brick tunnel, the big, open-plan jazz pub and restaurant. Six house bands fill up the week, and on the last Friday or Saturday of each month they showcase an international act that’s passing through.
บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ.พระสุเมร
bangkok101.com
brown sugar
DIPLOMAT BAR [Map4 / K7]
Conrad Bangkok | 87 Witthayu Rd BTS Ploen Chit |02-690-9999 www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6 pm-1 am; Fri & Sat 6 pm-2 am
An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-onefree Happy Hour from 4 – 7 pm (standard drinks only). It’s very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur.
รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ THE LIVING ROOM [Map4 / F6]
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd BTS Asok / MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 www.thelivingroomatbangkok.com | 9am-12am
Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong
the living room
cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be wellentertained. World class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently, the Living Room plays host to Randy Cannon and his trio, including ex-James Brown drummer Erik Hargrove and leading Thai bass player Therdsak Wongvichien, from Thursday to Sunday from 9:15pm until midnight. Singaporean pianist Kerong Chok plays with a trio from Monday to Wednesday.
รร.เชอราตันแกรนด์ สุขุมวิท Niu’s on Silom [Map5 / E5]
2nd F, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 www.niusonsilom.com | 5 pm-1 am
This New York-style lounge – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for various international acts who perform regularly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring established overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfor table for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concer to Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available.
นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 8 7
Nightlife
pub review
the Londoner
Descending the steps to this basement-based boozer leads to a store of surprises: what lurks behind the heavy art deco-style doors is a cavernous space punctuated by minimal lighting, nicotine-coloured walls and a wood and brass finish which lend the place a subterranean speakeasy feel. The huge freestanding bar dominates the entrance but the place seems to go on forever and fits in a large stage, bistro and even a brewery. Enjoy the extensive menu in your choice of cosy booth, bar stool or raised dining area. The highlight for ale lovers is the palatable London Pride bitter and London Pilsner 33, brewed onsite. Both are a refreshing change from the usual imported beers. The pub’s loyal following also come for the 15 screens showing big games. With two pool tables, darts, bi-monthly quizzes, 2 for 1 drinks on Wednesdays, nightly happy hours, Sunday buffet and the resident house band, it’s no surprise that the Londoner pulls in scores of punters night in, nights out. Aside from being a little pricey, the only downsides are the waitresses’ tacky beefeater outfits, but they do look better as the night wears on!
อาคารยูบีซี 2 สุขุมวิท ซ.33 getting there
The Londoner [MAP4 / L6] B1 F, UBC II Bldg | Sukhumvit Soi 33 | BTS Phrom Phong 02-261-0238-9 | www.the-londoner.com | 11 am – 1 pm 8 8 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
PUB Crawl
pubs 101 HANRAHANS [Map 3 / C 7] Sukhumvit Soi 4 l BTS Nana 02-255-0644-5 | 9 am – 1am
JAMESON’S [Map 5 / D 5]
Gr. F Holiday Inn Silom 981 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak 02-266-7703-5 | 10 am – 1 am
MOLLY MALONE’S [Map 5 / J 5] 1/5-6 Soi Convent, Silom BTS Sala Daeng | 02-266-7160 9 am – 1 am
O’REILLYS [Map 5 /K 5]
SILOM AREA
Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [ Map 5 / K5 ] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-toearth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [ Map 5 / K5] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowds of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. With Kilkenny and Guinness on tap, Molly Malone’s [Map 5 / J5] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5 pm – 9 pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. A short stroll down from the infamous Patpong stands basement boozer The Pinstman [Map 5 / J5] . Its look and feel is nothing you haven't seen before, but it does have Asahi, Guiness and Kilkenny on tap and lots of imported Belgian brews available by the bottle. Jameson’s [Map 5 / D5] sat under the Holiday Inn is a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesday featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B 29 a glass.
SUKHUMVIT AREA
Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [Map 3 / L6] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, including draught Kilkenny and Guinness, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Royal Oak [Map 3 / L6], whose oakpanelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. The Londoner [Map 3 / L6] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [Map 3 / K7], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [Map 3 / G6], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a pedestrian sub-street of Soi 11 lined with international restaurants is The Pickled Liver [Map 3 / C5]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [Map 3 / C7] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour. bangkok101.com
62/1-4 Silom Rd BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom 02-632-7515 | 9 am – 2 am
The BARBICAN [Map 5 / K 4] 9/4-5 Soi Thaniya, Silom Rd BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom 02-234-3590 | 11:30 am – 1 am
THE BLACK SWAN [Map 3 / G 6] 326/8-9 Sukhumvit Rd BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit 02-229-4542 | 8 am – midnight
The Royal Oak [Map 3 / L 6]
Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-4444 11:30 am – 1 am
BULLY’S [Map 3 / B 7]
Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 2 / 4 BTS Nana | 02-656-4609 | 11 am – 1am
THE DUBLINER [Map 3 / K 7]
440 Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22 / 24 BTS Phrom Phong | 02-204-1841/2 9 am – 1 am
THE LONDONER [Map 3 / L 6]
Basement, UBC II Bldg., Sukhumvit Soi 33 | BTS Phrom Phong 02-261-0238/9 | 11 am – 1am
THE PICKLED LIVER [Map 3 / C 5] Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 | BTS Nana 02-254-3484 | 2 pm – 3 am
THE PINTSMAN [Map 5 / J 5]
United Center Blg., 323 Silom Rd, btw. Soi Convent / 3 | BTS Sala Daeng 089-012-9922 | 11 am – 1 am
THE ROBIN HOOD [Map 3 / L 6] PB Bldg., Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-3390 10 pm – midnight
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 8 9
SHOPPING
9 0 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
new collection
‘Life in Mono’ by Greyhound Words by Gaby Doman
While the humid weather and our constant brow-mopping may not point to autumn/winter, the world of fashion doesn’t bother itself with such details. And so it is that the autumn/winter collections launch. Greyhound Original, one of Bangkok’s most well-established and respected fashion brands, has revealed this season’s concept, Mono. Much more appealing than the kissing disease of the same name, it’s a collection of muted-toned pieces in luxe fabrics, including leather dipped and coated in resin, plenty of knitwear, chiffon and organza. Texture is key to this season’s collection and we challenge anyone not to don the wool cigar pants without indulging in a little caressing. The inspiration for the collection has been cited as Yves Klein, a French artist known for favouring monochrome and blue and simplistic styles. The French influence is certainly evident in both the self-assured tailoring that Greyhound is so well-known for and the impeccable finishing. As the name suggests, the line is dominated by white, grey and black, with cool splashes of marine and electric cobalt blues. As well as giving the collection a distinctively wintery blast, the minimal palette lets the attention to design – rather than the colour – do the talking. The women’s collection features cropped cigarette pants that only the lithe of limb may want to tackle. For the rest of us, there are layered chiffon dresses that steer well clear of the typical flippy-dressed blueprint we’re used to seeing in Bangkok, with a high-waisted silhouette and capelet detail. available at:
Siam Paragon 1F | 02-129-4358 Siam Paragon Department Store 1F | 02-610-7914 Emporium 3F | 02-664-8664 Isetan Department Store 2F | 02-255-6461 Central Lardprao 2F | 02-541-1168 bangkok101.com
For men, the silhouette is also striking. Layers feature boxy leather jackets setting off tapered wool trousers, doublebreasted waistcoats and jackets teamed with buttoned-up shirts and fine knit turtle necks. For the more experimental gent, there is even a suit onesie. Yes, a jump suit. There’s no denying that some of the collection is for the more fashion forward dresser, but Greyhound has never been one for the play-it-safe brigade. oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 9 1
SHOPPING
unique boutique
Paul’s Antiques ‘Antiques any way you want them’ could be the slogan for Paul’s Antiques: a sprawling two-storey house of old wooden furniture salvaged from in and around Bangkok and remote corners of the Kingdom. While other, more inflexible antique shops have gone out of business in recent years, Paul’s does a good trade by selling pieces that appeal to more than just your serious antique collector. “We have a team of two carpenters who restores each piece to its original condition or can modify it to your needs,” says Angela Somwaya, the effervescent American who used to be a regular customer here before she acquired the 18-year-old business back in 2008. This bespoke approach has helped Paul’s weather the rocky economic times – and earnt it a strong customer base that includes corporate clients such as the stunning new Cabochon Hotel as well as expats. If you’d prefer a lighter finish, that glass panel removed so the kids can’t put their hands through it, or that art deco dressing table tweaked so it fits in that tight corner, her on-site workshop can do it for you. This made-to-order philosophy also stretches to making new pieces entirely, usually out of reclaimed teak. For example, for one client with an apartment not big enough to accommodate a long TV stand they created a three piece set with two sidetables that can be used as bedside tables until they relocate. For another they fashioned a butcher’s block from scratch. 9 2 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
As well as built-to-last wood furniture, Paul’s is also a huge treasure chest of odd little ornaments and trinkets, from Burmese folk statues, salvaged ox cart panels and Chinese bamboo tiffin baskets to quaint old Thai san phra poom (spirit houses) and rustic teak candle stands made from the legs of an old Balinese coffee table. Prices aren’t super cheap but neither are they overthe-top considering the hard graft that goes into getting them home-ready. A stout old Burmese teakwood bed dating to the early 20 th century will set you back B48,000 for example; a Northern Thai sticky rice tray perfect for keeping odds and ends in B9,800; and a cute rattan and bamboo bento lunch box B4,000. They don’t do big discounts, says Angela, but, as any keen antique hunter will tell you, its always worth asking.
พอลส์ แอนทีค สุขุมวิท ซ.13
getting there
Paul’s Antiques [MAP3 / c3] 50 Soi 13 Sukhumvit Road | 02-253-9025 www.paulsantiques.com, Facebook: Paul’s Antiques bangkok101.com
SHOPPING
jatujak market
Jatujak Market
Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere The rest can go and get lost – literally.
Taking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fullyblown, unadulterated Jatujak fix they desire. ตลาดนัดจตุจักร
9 4 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
The Jatujak market of Bangkok
Amber House Books | hardcover B1,950
The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual interpretation of Bangkok’s world famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove.
bangkok101.com
jj gem
JIPATA ANTIQUES SHOP Simply the best JJ antique shop we’ve come across. The fun here is in the foraging. The place is brimful with fine Chinese, European and Thai antiquities in need only of a good spit and polish, from Benjarong ceramics and Nang Kwak figurines to bronze Samurai statues, hefty old irons and crystal drop chandeliers. Most date back to the mid 20th century or earlier. More affordable (and practical, for the tourist with airline weight allowance to worry about) are the vases and wooden boxes – betal nut, Buddhist and decorative – that sit unloved on row after row of shelves. Running the show is Mr. Chairat Pongpha, an octogenarian from Nakhon Sawan who hobbles around on his walking stick barking prices at anyone who dares ask – but in the sweetest way imaginable.
Section 26, Soi 3 | 02-618-2622
Antiques and Collectibles 1, 26 Section 20, Soi 2 | 089-185-8894
Soi
Art and Gallery 7 Books 1, 27 Ceramics 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 25 Clothing, Accessories 2 – 6, 10 – 26 Handicrafts 8 – 11 Food and Beverage 2 – 4, 23 – 27 Furniture, Decorations 1, 3, 4, 7, 8 Misc 2 – 6, 22, 25, 26 Pets and Accessories 8, 9, 11, 13 Plants and Tools 3, 4
JJ Mall
1 2 3 4
C
5 6
1
2
68
1
1
27
ha en gP he t4
19
17
15
13
9 61
16
14
12
60
18
21
22 56
55
23 54
24 53
52
25
26 51
50
48
49
28
29 47
Ka
mp
3
ha
g en
ph
et
3
Chatuchak Park
57
46
N
4
58
27
59
45
6
20
t1
20
19
he
10 21
i6
2
18
ngp
30
44
Clock Tower
22
31
So
62
hae
3
17
mp
23
43
7
8
11
32
42
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
20
16
Ka
41
Jatujak Information Service
64 5
22 33
H. M. Queen Sirikit Park
10
4
34
40
9
mp
37
2
8
D
65 3
39
7
A
66
25
24
k
11
2
26
38
cha
a
Ka
36
Soi
Kamphaengphet
C
u hat
z Pla
67
35
Ka
mp
n hae
gP
het
B
69
5 3
Phahon Yothin Mo Chit
bangkok101.com
Chatuchak
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 9 5
“Don’t miss one of Bangkok’s most anticipating social events, from the 24th to the 28th of October at our fl agship Central Chidlom store.”
Once you’re done enjoying the festivities, Central’s world-class selection and Thai-style hospitality means you’re sure to go home with bags full of happiness. The selection on offer includes the exciting new Beauty Galerie, along with a huge selection of international luxury brands, Thai Designers’ showcase, stylish home furnishings, Thai handicrafts, children’s toys / clothing and much, much more. There is also a huge array of exclusively available top-name fashion; labels such as Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Alfred Dunhill, Bally, Burberry, Coach, DVF, Hugo Boss, Jack Spade, Jimmy Choo, Kate Spade, Long Champ, Max Mara, Mulberry, Paul Smith, Porsche Design, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tory Burch, Vivenne Tam and Vivienne Westwood. Meanwhile, there’s fine dining on the 7th floor at FoodLoft – the store’s signature open-kitchen eatery with a choice of eight international cuisines. Finally, shoppers will always find something to smile about with Central’s never-ending parade of exciting year-round giveaways and promotions.
5% Discount and 7% Tax Refund for Tourists One-Stop Total Shopping Destination Shipping/Hotel Delivery Shuttle Service Interpreter Service Prayer Room Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok, Thailand Tel. +66(0)2 793 7777 BTS Skytrain Chit-Lom Station
WELLNESS
being spa
crystal spa
Crystal Spa [MAP8 / T18]
1541 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Phrakanong 02-382-2244; 02-382-445 www.crystalspathailand.com | 10 am – 10 pm | $$
spa 1930
Massage & Spa BEING SPA [MAP3 / P4]
88 Sukhumvit 51 | BTS Thong Lo 02-662-6171 | www.beingspa.com 10 am – 8 pm | $$$
A serene courtyard pond leads the way into Being, one of the Sukhumvit area’s best neighbourhood day spas. This thoughtfully converted, two-storey house accommodates 12 private treatment chambers fashioned with rustic wood floors and tasteful ethnic décor, as well as rooms with shower beds, needle jets and a floral bath. Being’s host of revitalising treatments range from 30 minute body scrubs (using everything from coffee beans and seaweed to Thai herbs and pepper) to more comprehensive, 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hour spa packages combining various medleys of massages, baths, facials, body wraps and scrubs. Recommendable is their signature fusion massage, the Being Ultimate Body Massage (1900 baht), a 90 minute rubdown blending aroma therapy oil massage with stretching and bending elements of traditional, medium pressure Thai massage.
บีอิ้งสปา สุขุมวิท 51 9 8 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
Clamber down the steps of BTS Phrakanong station’s exit 3 and you’ve pretty much arrived at this small innercity spa. If you’re a regular in these parts you’ll know Crystal’s look well – lots of warmtoned woods and muted silks, silk-clad staff with orchids in their tied-up hair, low-lit corridors that make you feel sleepy before you’ve even taken your shoes off. Thai massages are done in quasi-public but thick curtains guarantee some privacy, while foot massages happen in ultra-comfy upholstered armchairs. Compact treatment rooms come with little telephone-cubicle sized herbal steamers and hydrotherapy baths, both good for relaxing your aching muscles pre-rub. As well as body and facial treatments, manicures and pedicures, lots of inexpensive packages are offered. Our ruling fave: the slightly kinky/painful sounding, but in fact utterly dreamy Aroma Hot Candle Massage.
คริสตัลสปา ติดกับรถไฟฟ้าพระโขนง MUL BERRY SPA [MAP5 / C5]
346/10 Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng / MRT Silom | 02-630-9888 www.mulberryspa.com | 10 am – 10pm | $$$
Despite its labyrinthine layout, this often booked-out spa still feels quite intimate. The lush reception is only the beginning– seated in the neat “library”, you won’t mind waiting. Spread over two floors, each homey room (they all come with their own shower) is dotingly styled in a different way, but a slight Arabian atmosphere and appealing ornaments pervade throughout. The owners take a refreshingly different approach to its service: therapists are not chosen for their looks but for their
mul berry spa
skills. The range of treatments is limited but all the essentials are there. You get way more than you’ve paid for – the prices are quite low for the high-quality massages masks, scrubs and facials. So indulge and spend half a day here.
มัลเบอร์รี่สปา สีลม SPA 1930 [MAP4 / J6]
42 Soi Tonson | BTS Chit Lom | 02-254-8606 www.spa1930.com | 9:30 am – 9:30 pm | $$$
The achingly cute fake-timbered heritage building, straight out of a Grimm’s fairy tale, houses a spa that is so popular it’s difficult to get a reservation. Maybe it’s been featured in too many Asian travel magazines? At any given time, Singaporean and Hong Kong Chinese await their treatment in the welcoming reception area (complete with a library), which feels so intimate that you’ll think you’ve entered a private residence. The list of treatments is very traditional – no fancy shmancy here, just good old spa classics. The signature treatments are excellent, but you might be tempted into a marvelous four-hands massage or an herbal pack treatment. The handful of packages is quite respectable, too. Efficient therapists work in softly lit, simply decorated rooms. A welcome surprise is the fact that no music is piped into the rooms so you can relax totally – or maybe nod off while listening to your own breathing.
สปา 1930 ซ.ต้นสน ชิดลม
Spa costs
$ :: under B600 $$ :: B600 – B1,000 $$$ :: B1,000-2,000 $$$$ :: B2,000+ bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 9 9
C ommunity
making merit
Second Chance Bangkok We’ve all been there: you look at that piece of furniture, that pile of clothes, that unused appliance, just days before the movers are due to arrive, and wonder what on earth you’re going to do. Too often you opt to throw it all out, or ship it and worry about it later.
market price and the proceeds then used to help generate employment, start businesses and fund social projects there. Neat, huh?
That’s where Second Chance Bangkok, a grassroots initiative set up by expats Chris and Jodie MacCartney, comes in: they’ll take your unwanted junk off your hands for free. Not that making the lives of hoarders easier is their sole concern – they founded Second Chance back in 2009 to improve the lives of those living in Bangkok’s impoverished Klong Toey slum.
It’s an initiative pitched ingeniously between environmental sustainability and social responsibility. Donate and, as well as easing the pressure on your local landfill, you’ll be helping pay the wages of the Klong Toey residents who man their store, and fund a slew of povertyalleviation projects. These include youth and kids’ clubs, medical assistance programs, support of small business startups, education scholarships and supporting children with special needs.
Here’s how it works: all your donations are sold to the Klong Toey community, for the benefit of the Klong Toey community. In other words, items sold at their shop located in the slum go to new homes for a below
Business is so brisk that the store recently increased staff to cope with the growing number of customers and donations. And in the last few months, Chris and Jodie have been experimenting with a second shop,
1 0 0 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
complete with its own fresh coffee corner, in another slum community to see how feasible it will be. They’ve also started ‘upcycling’ some of the good that come in. Jodie explains why: “After running successfully for two years we started to dream about other ways we could engage people in our community with fair employment,” she says. “The result is ‘Creative Wares’: an initiative in which skilled and creative women turn jeans and business shirts into bags, pencil cases, teddy bears, accessories and giftwares. As well as these ‘upcycled’ goods, they also create woolen crocheted toys in beautiful, bright colours, as well as funky and functional sleepwear that we call ‘Fair wear’.” Whether you’re a business, school, or individual, if you want to get involved – to give both your belongings and a disadvantaged community a ‘second chance’ – get in
bangkok101.com
touch with the Second Chance crew via their website, www.scbkk.org, or by emailing them at info@scbkk.org. To see some of their creations or make orders, follow them on Facebook: www.facebook.com/creativewares.scbkk Preferred pick-up times are Monday to Fridays in the mornings or evenings. Items welcomed include the following: clean clothing, baby clothing, kitchenware, children’s toys, furniture, sporting items, musical instruments, household appliances, computers, books, bedding, electrical appliances and office equipment.
เซกันด์ แชนด์ ถ.อาจณรงค์ getting there
Second Chance Bangkok [MAP2 / F10] 99/101 Ardnarong Road, Klongtoey Bangkok, 10110 08702-64295 or 08702-64205 | www.scbkk.org info@scbkk.org | Facebook: Second Chance Bangkok oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 0 1
getting there
victory monument Photographer : Walid Penpan 1 0 2 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
RAIL
SKYTRAIN (BTS) The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B 15 to B 55; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th
SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B 39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th Airport Rail Link A 28 km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain. One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150 as part of a drive to increase passenger numbers. http://airportraillink.railway.co.th bangkok101.com
ROAD
BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B 5 and B 7.50 – B 23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).
RIVER
CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B 9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of intercity waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B 9 to B 32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30 am and 6 pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B 3.
MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. As with tuk-tuks, fares should be negotiated beforehand. TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B 35 (for the first 2 k ms) and the fare climbs in B 2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B 5 or B 10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B 50 surcharge is added. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuktuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B 40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for B 10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 0 3
REFERENCE
Map 1 Greater Bangkok A
B
Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya Map 2 >
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
1
2
3
4
5
c
b
3
2 a
1
6
2
1
7
8
9
10
11
N
20 km 20 miles Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border
Sightseeing a
Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park
floating Markets Damnoen Saduak 2 Amphawa 1
Museums
Nightlife 1 2
Parking Toys Tawandang German
Hotels
1 Anantara Bangkok Erawan Museum Riverside Resort and Spa House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods 1
2
1 0 4 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N 
1
2
3
4
e
5
1
6
7
8
9
10 1 f
11
2 4
12
13
14
15
16
17
d
18
bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 0 5
REFERENCE
Map 3 Sukhumvit Road A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
1
2
3
IN
LK
2
1
4
6
7
4 3
1
2
10
5 12
11 8
6
13
3
5 6
1
4
2 7 9
4 11
7
10
NO
15 13
16
3 5
IR
8
11
3
8
9
14
12 2
5
9
4
NZ
UA
1 6
QA
N
200 m 1 000 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Subway Line Railway
1 0 6 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
Hotels
malls
1 Robinsons Conrad Bangkok 2 Terminal 21 2 Sheraton Grande 3 Emporium 3 Seven 4 JW Marriot Markets 5 Rembrandt 6 Four Points 4 Sukhumvit 7 Aloft Sukhumvit 11 8 Ramada Encore 9 Imperial Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit 11 Marriott Executive Sukhumvit Park 12 Grande Centre Point Terminal 21 13 Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 1
Arts & Culture 1
Japan Foundation Koi Art Gallery 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta 5 TCDC (Thailand Creative & Design Centre 6 Nang Kwak 7 WTF 8 The Pickture Gallery 9 ARDEL's Third Place Gallery 10 BKK Art House 2
bangkok101.com
n
o
p
q
r
s
t
u
v
w
x
y
25 24 21 10 20
1
22 23 6 9
2
3 8
4
5 7 19
6 PH
17
18
7
8
1
9
11
Clubs 1
Q Bar 2 Bed Supperclub 3 Insomnia 10 Glow 24 Demo
pubs 11
12
13
14 15
16
The Hanrahans The Pickled Liver The Robin Hood The Royal Oak The Londoner Black Swan
bangkok101.com
Nightlife 4
Long Table 5 Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Barsu 19 WTF 17 Tokyo Joe's 18 Club Perdomo 20 The Iron Fairies 21 Clouds 22 Fat Gut'z 23 Shades of Retro 25 diVino
Embassies IN
India
IR Iran LK
Sri Lanka
PH Philippines
Qatar Ukraine NO Norway
QA UA
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 0 7
REFERENCE
Map 4 Siam / Chit Lom A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
4
1
17 ID
5
5
9
6
6
2
12 3
h 14 b
3 d
a
4
3
8
16
5
1
10
g 11 7
2 c
UK
c 10 11
13
14
16
FI
VN
12
1
6
CH
f
4 e
c 2
1
7
15
8
NL
NZ QA
9
7
f
e
15
UA
13
d
b 2
US
8
9
KH
N
Hotels 1
Pathumwan Princess Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate 6 Novotel Platinum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan 8 The Four Seasons 9 The St. Regis 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 15 Hotel Muse 16 Okura Prestige Arts & Culture 2
200 m 1 000 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market
1
BACC – Bangkok Art and Culture Centre 2 Tonson Gallery
1 0 8 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
BR
Sightseeing
malls
Embassies
a
MBK Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza 6 Platinum Fashion Mall 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen @ CentralWorld 9 Pratunam Center 10 Gaysorn 11 Erawan Plaza 12 The Peninsula Plaza 13 Amarin Plaza 14 Central Chidlom 15 All Seasons Place
CH
Jim Thomson House Museum of Imagery Technology c Madame Tussads d Queen Savang Vadhana Museum e Siam Ocean World f Ganesha and Trimurti Shrine g Erawan Shrine h Goddess Tubtim Shrine b
Nightlife a CM2 b
Red Sky Bar Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar d P&L Club e Café Trio f Hyde & Seek c
1
2
Switzerland
BR Brazil FI Finnland ID Indonesia KH Cambodia NL Netherlands NZ
New Zealand
QA Quatar UA Ukraine UK
United Kingdom
US USA VN Vietnam
Shopping 16 17
Siam Square Pratunam Market
bangkok101.com
Silom / Sathorn Map 5 A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
1 2
2a
2
6 PT
3
4 1 1
b 5 c
11
FR
4
7 d 1
e
k
10
3
3
a
f
g
2 8
h
4
5 o m 12 n BT
4
5 l 14
BE
3
CA
j
6
MM
16 TW
SG
b
AU
95 13
MY
7
MX GR
15
p
DE DK
8
AT
9
Hotels 1
bars with views
a Threesixty The Peninsula 2 Millenium Hilton d Sky Bar 3 Shangri-La o Panorama 4 Center Point Silom p Moon Bar 5 Mandarin Oriental 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton Nightlife 7 Lebua at State Tower 8 Holiday Inn b La Casa Del Habano 9 Chaydon Sathorn c Bamboo Bar f Niu's on Silom Bangkok 10 Pullman Bangkok g Barley Bistro & Bar j Eat Me Hotel G 11 Le Meridien k Tapas 12 Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Pubs 13 Banyan Tree 14 Dusit Thani e Jameson's 15 The Sukothai h The Pintsman 16 Sofitel SO l Molly Malone's m The Barbican n O'Reilly's
Arts & Culture 1
AT Austria
Shopping
MY Malaysia
1
Robinsons 2 River City Shopping 3 Silom Village 4 Silom / Patpong Night-Market 5 Jim Thompson Store
N
AU Australia BE Belgium
200 m
BT Bhutan
1 000 ft
CA Canada DE Germany DK Denmark GR Greece FR France MX Mexico
1
N
River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market
MM Myanmar PT Portugal SG Singapore TW Taiwan
Sightseeing a b
bangkok101.com
Embassies
Serindia Gallery 2 Silom Galleria: Number 1 Gallery, Tang Contemporary Art, Taivibu Gallery, Gossip Gallery 3 H Gallery 4 Bangkokian Museum 5 Alliance Francaise
Snake Farm M.R. Kukrit’s House oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 0 9
REFERENCE
Map 6 Yaowarat / Pahurat (Chinatown & Little India ) A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
1
1
b
2
8
f
3
10
7
4
3 h
2
e
j
j 9 1
g
1
5
2 6
5
d
6 2
7
c
1
a
8
3 4
9
N
Hotels Grand China Princess Bangkok Shanghai Mansion 1
2
200 m 1 000 ft 1
N
River Ferry River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market
Arts & Culture 1
Chalermkrung Theatre Samphanthawong Museum 3 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre 2
Temples
1 Long Krasuang Market Wat Ratburana School 2 Ban Mo ( Hi-Fi Market) Wat Pra Phiren c Wat Bophit Phimuk 3 Pak Khlong Talat d Wat Chakrawat (Flower Market) e Wat Chaichana Songkhram 4 Yot Phimai Market f Wat Mangkon Kamalawat 5 Pahurat –Indian Fabric Market g Wat Samphanthawongsaram 6 Sampeng Market 7 Woeng Nakhon Kasem Worawiharn h Wat Traimit (Temple of (Thieves Market) 8 Khlong Tom Market the Golden Buddha) 9 Talat Kao (Old Market) 10 Talat Mai (New Market) Sightseeing b
j
1 1 0 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
Markets
a
Chinatown Gate at the Odient Circle
bangkok101.com
Map 7 Rattanakosin (Oldtown) A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15 N
16
bangkok101.com
oc t ober 2 0 1 2 | 1 1 1
m y b a n g ko k
Thaitanium Thailand’s most famous hip hoppers, Thaitanium, celebrated their 10th anniversary at the end of last year with their ‘ThaiTay Ten Concert’, a live performance featuring all their hottest jams. It was a fitting finale to a decade’s worth of rasping rhymes and beats. In a land dominated by glossy pop idols, these three proud sons of Siam have consistently forged their own path: seamlessly woven together the complex cadences of their native Thai language with the gritty street vocabulary of American hip-hop. Keep track of their latest adventures in sound (and, more recently, street clothing) at www.thaitanium.biz or Facebook: thaitanium.
Best place for a drink Shades of Retro down the street from our studio is a retro kind of place filled with second hand stuff. You can buy all the furniture and things in the restaurant such as the sofa or table you are sitting at. The people who go there are mostly creative people, rather than the type of people who go there to see people or be seen. On the flip side, Hyde & Seek is another favorite and we go there because there’s a lot of beautiful people there and the cocktails are superb. Best place to eat We have different favorites. Sometimes they change by the week. Right now we’ve been stuck on this shabu place called Shabu Mama Do. Best place to take visitors Thong Lor. You can start from Shades of Retro, move over to Iron Fairies, and end up at Demo, RCA or Bed Supperclub. There’s a bunch of rooftop venues like Sirroco and Vertigo. A more private place that people may not know about is Eugenia.
THE SHORTLIST:
Shades of Retro [MAP8 / S14]
Tararom Soi 2, Thong Lor | 081-824-8011 Shabu Mama Do [MAP8 / J18] 60 Narathivart Soi 8, Sathorn | 02-676-4741-3
Best place to shop They don’t really have our size in Thailand so we don’t really shop much here but maybe Club 21. Best place to relax The beach. We like to go to Samui, Krabi, and Phuket. The Sri Panwa resort in Phuket is nice because it’s really private. You have everything you need there so you don’t want to go anywhere else.
Club 21 [MAP4 / C4] [MAP4 / G4] [MAP4 / G5] [MAP3 / M6] Siam Paragon, CentralWorld, Central Chidlom, Erawan Bangkok, Emporium | 02-652-0740 www.facebook.com/club21thailand
Best place to impress a date Face Bar in Soi 38 – it’s quiet and the place itself is really nice with a fusion of Thai-Balinese style. There’s a pond outside filled with huge fish. When you’re there it feels like you’re not in Thailand, but Bali.
Face Bar [MAP3 / S7] 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 02-713-6048 www.facebars.com
Best place for a real Bangkok experience Khao San Road and the Grand Palace are good for sightseeing and also for authentic Thai food.
Bed Supperclub [MAP3 / C4] 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-3537 www.bedsupperclub.com
Best place for hip-hop Bed Supperclub on Tuesdays with DJ Buddha.
1 1 2 | oc t ober 2 0 1 2
bangkok101.com
E
F
Wat Khema
G
H
L
M
Wat Soi Thong
22
Prach a Rat Sai 2
N
Dir Domection est Don ic A irp Muen ort g
23
N
Rama VII Bridge
Province Border
Bang Po
River Ferry
1
K
en
24
N
N
N
J
25 Pilbul 1
N
a Chu
D
on tha bu ri
C
P ra c h
B
Kru ng the p-N
A
Suan W Bench
Queen Sirkit Park
Jat P
Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line
21
N
t han
Am
18
N
Payap Wat Thepnahree
17
N
Na
16
ko
N
rn
nu
ay
Ch
in
v y
Na
Witt ha
Son
Su an
yu
Ratchadamri
Marine Dept.
n
Sri Ph N
r ay a
Sam Yan
Lumpini Park
Si Lom
10
3
N
S ur a
2
Wat Muang Khae Wongwian Yai Railway
Phloen Chit
Royal Bangkok Sports Club
4 – SI A M / Ch it Lo m
Hua Lamphong
4
Si Phraya
N
wo n
g
S ilom
Krung Thon Buri
u Chong Nonsi
orn 5 – s
Saphan Taksin
Sathorn
Sala Daeng
S at h
1
Oriental Wongwian Yai
ha Vip
es sw ay
Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station
gW at
N
ow
Chit Lom
un ant
t
Siam
hai
ra
Son
5
at
g
Soi To n
C h
un
Wireless
National Stadium Thong
Kr
N
Pratunam
Soi La ng
6 –
Krung Kasem
en
Ya ow a
Rajchawongse
C h at
Chit Lom
Ph ay a T
N
Ram
k halo ank S aw w ay re s s E xp
ak Wora ch
Maha
Chai
Ti Thon et.
aro
6
Memorial Bridge
Ratchapraprop
s
Phaya Thai
ri
Baan Krua Nua Sapan Hua Chang
Ba nt hat
N
11
Ratchathewi
2 nd State Ex pr
Rajinee
7
Sapan Charoenpol
Ch Ch ak ra Ph et Ch akk raw at
7
Cha kph 1 et
habu
H enri D
Dinso
Bumrung Muang
hit
N
Phra Phi Phit
Pe t c
Talad Bobae
l
1
Phaya Thai
ri C
d 5
8
Lan Luang
Phan Fa Lilat
k
wa
i ata Thip
cha
Pra
j Klang
Charoen Krung
9 Victory Monument
8
Mait
at har Ma
Tha Tien 1
m
g
ng i Wa Tha
Tri Ph
8
ai Sanam Ch
N
f
Royal Turf Club
ess
en ms Sa
ng ho aP kr
ak
Ch
Ratcha Damno en Nai
Rachinee Atsadang
h
itri
Kalayana Ma
Grand Palace b
6
6
Victory Monument
m
3
ay a
se
noen
Sanan Pao
Ka
9
Tha Chang
n
t th
ng
Kh 2 2 aos an Ratch4 a Dam
me
Ay u
p
ok
g Kru
g
ul
an
10
N
a
Su
hi
Chitralada Palace
Sri
Lu
4
c
N
ra
an
k
t
1 Wang Lang
Ph
it s
Lu
5
ith
At
asa
3
tK
11
N
isu
N
Phra Atith e
Thonburi Railway
W
Thonburi Railway
13 ra Ph
N
wit
S t at
Ph
Ari
2 nd
14
12
2
cha
o
N
aV
V
R at
7
t 1s S t a t e E x pr
Thewej
Rama VIII Bridge
ir i
ai
Dusit Zoo
3
N
Phra Pin Klao Bridge
at
am
ma
oth
n
7 – Oldtown
kr
Ra
Suk
15
ais
ng
Pradiph
I
Krung Thon Bridge
So
Saphan K
Tho
Tet c Kheaw Khai ka
20
N
Irrigation N19 Dept.
Kamphaeng Phet
et D
ha
Tha
Wa ni
Airport Rail Link
M
6
5
Bang Sue
Kjak Kai
i
Railway
amr
MRT Subway Line
Surasak
t
ilo
m /
S a
th
or n
Lumphini 9 10
Kh
N
O
P
Q
R
S
t
reference | B angk o k cit y M ap 8
Phahon Yothin
1
Wachira hathat t
Map 8 Bangkok
29
2
tujak Park
Lat Phrao
Sightseeing a
Wat Arun Grand Palace c Wat Mahathat d Wat Pho e Wat Chana Songkhram f Wat Ratchabophit g Wat Bowornniwet Viharn h Wat Suthat & Giant Swing j Democracy Monument k Wat Ratchanatda l Wat Saket m Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium n Vimanmek Mansion o Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall p Wat Benchamabophit s Suan Pakkad Palace t Bangkok Butterfly Garden u Lumpini Boxing Stadium Arts & Culture b
3
Chatuchak Park
Mo Chit
Ratchadapisek
La
Khwai
tP
hra
4 o
5
Sutthisan Sutthisan
6
7
gsi
t
Huai Khwang
an
iR
v ad
t ur at
Siriraj Medical Museum Royal Barges Museum 3 National Museum 4 National Theatre 5 Museum of Siam 6 Rattanakosin Exhibiton Hall 7 Numthong Gallery 8 Aksra Theatre 9 Goethe Institut 10 Galerie N 11 Bangkok Doll Museum 12 Siam Niramit 1
2
8
12
9
Thailand Cultural Centre
10
Phra Rama 9
hit / E
11
Ram a IX
x pre s
2 nd S
s w ay
Phetchaburi
Nana Nua
12
Italthai
Nana Chard
Wat Maichonglom
Bandon Mosque
Prasanmit
E xpr
essw
2
ay
Direction Internat Suvanabhum ional A i irport
Asoke/Phetchaburi
Pe tc h
12
13
a b u ri
14
ana oi 5
5
Sukhumvit vit S hum
um
S oi 6 umvit Suk h
16
m ai –
kh
vit
Ekka
Su
15
3
S uk or – ng L
Benjasiri Park
Tho
Benjakiti Park
Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre
Thong Lo
hlong Toei
3 – Ram
a IV
S u
kh
D BT irect S S ion tat ion
um
Ekkamai
vi
t
17
Be
Amorosa The Club 3 Phranakorn Bar 4 Brick Bar 5 Adhere The 13th 6 Rolling Bar 7 Pullman 8 Raintree Pub 9 Saxophone Pub 10 Wong‘s Place 11 Route 66 12 Cosmic Cafe 2
Klongton Bridge
Phrom Phong
nighlife
Ratchapraprop
1
Charn Issara
Asok
Pak Khlong Talad Khao San Road 3 Thewet 4 Ratchada Night Market 5 Talat Rot Fai 6 Jatujak Weekend Market 1
t ate
Makasan 11
Markets
Hotels 1
Pullman King Power
ari
Phra Khanong
ng
18
© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2012. www.bangkok101.com
Night Move Seductive Salsa, smokin’ Rhythm & Blues, or cool Jazz-Funk; whatever you like to move to, we have it. Catch live bands 4 nights a week.
WED: Jazz-funk with Neung Jakkawal Band THU: Red Hot Salsa with Siam Cubano Band FRI & SAT: Thailand’s top guitarist, Chai Blues and his Band From 9pm to midnight
Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13-15 Wattana, Bangkok 10110 Thailand Tel: 02 126 9999 www.sofitel.com