Bangkok 101 - April 2009 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

april 2009 100 baht

t h r o u g h t h e s eoynegsk roafn h i s k i n g d o m

1 on 1: bobby chinn Very Thai: beauty queens Day Trip: nakHon pathom Upcountry Escape: ubon ratchathani Over the Border: chengdu

n a r k g n So plash at s a g n i k a M

Year Thai New

Making Merit: the father ray foundation

april 2009

HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

publisher’s

letter

april 2009

Pump-action water pistols to the ready! Or perhaps not. Wherever you stand on Songkran (April 13-15), Thailand’s New Year, there’s no doubting the facts. This, the beginning of the new solar year, is traditionally a time for ritual cleansing, ancestral honouring and merit making. And yet, nowadays, it’s also a nationwide wild time when revellers, dripping wet, douse everybody in their reach with water and chalk powder. But let’s not get into all that here – there’s quite enough water-sloshing going on in our Songkran feature (p.50). Instead we’ll assume your idea of fun isn’t sadistically spraying unarmed pedestrians with a Super Soaker, and tell you about those events and rituals that reflect the true spirit of Songkran: go to Making Merit to get suitably meretricious; learn about Miss Songkran beauty contests over in Very Thai; or find out where to get a cooling bowlful of khao chae, a festive iced-rice delicacy, in Meal Deals. Been soaked one too many times? The truth is, while you can escape to the country’s far reaches, you really cannot hide from Songkran (unless, like some, you hibernate for the duration). However, check our reworked Daytrips section for day-long escapes, Upcountry Festivals if you’re interested to see what Songkran means in the provinces (or another homespun festival entirely), and Ubon Ratchatani if you fancy hiding Way Out East, in the captivating cradle of Isaan civilization. Once again, we’ve got former CNN bureau chief Tom Mintier on interviewer duties. He chin-wags with Hanoi-based fusion-chef Bobby Chinn about Bangkok’s gastro-blessings. And we bring you more of what we love most about the Big Mango, including new restaurants, spas, tips on finding rustic Northeastern nosh, and Metrobeat, a breakdown ters k 101 ca of the best events in this bumper (and boiling hot) month. This d, Bangko an what they se ia b n u includes a review of Bo.Lan, a slow-cooking Thai restaurant the ent and r more th er Independ rs who yearn fo s. It brings togeth , city’s epicures have high hopes for. lle k rs e o te v o a ri b tr ents, w d guide to savvy city resid The result hty, date So, whether you’re a purist, intent only on sprinkling f ig o e o w h in . find ho’s W tators droplets over Buddha images, or a water-gun toting urbantravel ritative W commen an autho ers and cultural f monthly ff the o d ri b y h h p o t guerilla with a score to settle, we hope you find this Bangkok ra n d g e n g a photo intelli u on pact and ine that takes yo employs the 101 a great Songkran facilitator/souvenir. Have fun, keep cool, is a com z ga 01 d city ma track. Bangkok 1 no smut and no be safe, and remember to add a civil “Sawadee pii mai (Happy guide an rist fluff, u o to ght. n rn h it o t be bou well-w ards, w New Year)!” to every cheeky splash. nt canno , rial stand

What i1s01? Bangkok

Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher & Editorial Director

dito conte readers highest e ls. Our editorial s on our u c fo a e ri th adver to aintain to ensure rously m We rigo nd our mission is ity as much a at c y this gre they enjo love living in it. as we

contributors Leon Schadeberg

Based in Thailand since the late 1980s, prolific British photographer Leon Schadeberg understandably calls Bangkok his home. A recognised travel lensman, Leon began his career in the field at the tender age of 16, and has since travelled across the continents, capturing images in over 70 countries. Working for the London-based agency Rex Features, Leon’s photos have appeared in such publications as Time, Newsweek, Stern and Paris Match. He has also had several books published on destinations such as Ho Chi Minh City and Hong Kong.

Noy Thrupkaew

Noy is a U.S. journalist and former Pew fellow in International Journalism and Fulbright fellow in contemporary Thai cinema. She writes frequently on international politics and culture. Noy has reported from Cuba, Iran, Morocco, Japan, and Cambodia, among other countries; for outlets including The Guardian, Marie Claire, Ms. and The American Prospect, where she is a senior correspondent.

Philip Cornwel-Smith

Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness: Thailand and international magazines.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He’s just finished writing the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, to be published in 2009 by Insight Guides.

Tom Mintier

From covering the Vietnam War as an army photographer to heading up CNN bureaus in London and Bangkok, Tom Mintier is one of the most recognised and respected media figures in Thailand today. An Emmy awardwinning television news journalist,Tom covered many events live for CNN, including the 1989 student uprising in Tiananmen Square and the fall of the Berlin Wall. Currently a consultant at AMATA Corp and professor at Thammasat University in Bangkok, Tom continues to train local journalists.

Steven Pettifor

British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia.com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher & Editorial Director Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Associate Editor Mike Atkins Art Director Yuthtaya Sangnak Designer Narong Srisaiya Editorial Assistants Piyakwan Mettaprasert Tippicha Chumsaeng Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Stephanie Roy Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,TAT Director of Marketing Vareeporn Arunsuratpakdee Account Executive Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Jaruwan Janvisitsak Adul Waengmol Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com Printed by Allied Printers T: 02-240-3700

© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2009. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents

april 2009

snapshots 10 12 14 16 17 18 19

sightseeing

20 22 24 26 28 30 32 33 34 36 37 38 42 43 44 46

101 picks 1 on 1: bobby chinn metro beat history religion customs very thai: beauty queens

route101: rattanakosin route101: riverside route101: chinatown route101: sukhumvit route101: pathumwan siam and pratunam route 101: silom&sathorn historic buildings the grand palace temples museums the great outdoors day tripping day trip: nakhon pathom upcountry festivals upcountry escape: ubon ratchathani over the border: chengdu

arts 48 49 50 54 55 56 57

contemporary art galleries special feature: songkran performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening

50 42

On the cover: young girl celebrates Songkran Photo by: Leon Schadeberg

table of

contents

april 2009

shopping

106 boutique bangkok

dining in bangkok meal deal thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants chic bangkok dim-sum brunching tea late dining sweet treats all you can eat wine

100

health & wellness 108 109 110 111

body & beauty medical tourism spas wellness centres

sports

112 spectator sports 113 active sports

courses & services 114 115

nightlife 82 84 86 87 90 92 93 94 96

shopper scene stuff unique boutique shopping tours mall crawl markets sidewalks

accommodation

food & drinks 58 59 60 61 62 63 68 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

98 99 100 101 102 104 105

one night in bangkok nightclubs latin rhythms bars bars with a view jazz clubs nightlife areas live music pub crawling

cooking, meditation & thai massage courses making merit: the father ray foundation

business

106 115

116 business 117 real estate

reference

118 survival thai 119 contacts 120 getting around

116

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101 picks

Before dashing off to a tropical island or the mountains, scratch beneath the city’s gritty surface to discover gems that’ll keep you here longer. We’ve compiled our Bangkok favourites here.

one night in bangkok

shopping

thai style

food heaven

open air

■ Chatuchak A huge, sprawling village of a market, selling everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.104).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.115).

■ Beautiful Brunches L a ze a r o u n d w i t h friends, newspapers for those great late breakfasts (p. 75).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a big zoo & Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous greener y (pp.32 & 37).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day. Party all night. Never grow old. It’s fun to be a Bangkokian (pp.84-96).

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar A pleasant evening market with arts, crafts and textiles. And a massive beer garden (p.104).

■ Thai Massage A cracking good time – though not for the faint hearted (p.108).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Get thee to a food court (p.62).

■ On the River Take an express boat up to Nonthaburi or explore the canal communities of Thonburi (p.22).

■ Cabarets Wow, she is beautiful. Such a graceful dancer. And what a figure! Eh… what do you mean “he”? (p.85).

■ Siam Square All the young dudes head to this cradle of cool for the latest flicks and threads (p.101).

■ Thai Cooking Classes Learn to pound a proper paste like a pro (p.114).

■ Riverside Dining The Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome backdrop.And there are plenty of good restaurant options (p.69).

■ Cycling Tour Maybe not an obvious choice, but these tours are surprisingly popular (p.113).

■ High Attitude Bars Slinky cocktails at eight miles high. Not cheap, but well worth it (p.90).

■ Patpong A thin strip in the CBD jam-packed with market stalls and, er, go-go bars (p.105).

■ Thai Boxing The brutal, quintessentially Thai form of kickboxing (p.112).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of special offers to eat at some of the city’s best restaurants (p.59).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the museum park of Muang Boran, and see Thailand in miniature! (p.38).

■ Dining Cruises Stuff your face as you wind your way along the Chao Phraya (p.69).

■ Panthip Plaza The ultimate computer-geek mecca. If you can’t find it here you just haven’t looked hard enough (p.102).

■ TCDC Cool, creative learning space for Thai designers (p.55).

■ Street Food Pull up a plastic stool and get ready to point and shoot (p.60).

■ Lumpini Park A huge green space in the heart of the city. Perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the ponds (p.37).

■ Carnivalesque Get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11 (pp.88; 93).

■ Paragon & CentralWorld Two of the swishest mega-malls you’re ever likely to encounter. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be the third floor (p.102).

■ Jim Thompson House & Silk Shop This former spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade then disappeared. Nice house though (p.99).

■ Affordable Gourmet Food If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, Bangkok needn’t break the bank (p.63).

■ Flower Market Close your eyes and inhale deeply. 24-hour marigold madness. (p.104)

■ Theatre TraditionalThai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.54)

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bangkok 101

2 Nights – 1 Festival 24TH & 30TH of April GET YOUR TICKETS @ ZEN DEPARTMENT STORE, LEVEL 1 (CENTRALWORLD) TICKETS@OPWORLDWIDE.COM (+66) 0266 10 900 WWW.OPWORLDWIDE.COM/EDITIONBANGKOK

Snapshots

1 on 1 If ever there was a chef born to create fusion food, it’s Bobby Chinn. Half Egyptian, half Chinese, born in New Zealand, educated in England, “from” San Francisco and mostly based in Hanoi, Bobby is a true citizen of the world. He tells Tom Mintier why Bangkok food holds a special place in his heart. Where do you eat in Bangkok? I tell you what; I’ve never had a bad meal here. People always ask me where I go to eat and, you know, I eat at food courts, on the street and at the mall. And I go to the naughty street, what’s it called… Patpong! There’s a place there where everybody who’s eating is local, and everyone’s happy and everyone’s just enjoying the food. Then again, I can go to eat at The Sukhothai and have one of the greatest restaurant meals ever, in the whole world. What’s the secret to Thai food? It’s all about the people who cook it. Naturally, the people who cook Thai food here understand it – it’s not like just anyone can all of a sudden decide to be a Thai chef. It’s all about flavour, technique and understanding. You’ve got it, that magic, in Bangkok. When you come to Bangkok, what do you crave? I’m like a nibbler here, I can walk on the street and I’m like “I want the phad thai here, I want that there.” Then there’s hor mok, that red curry custard with seafood with a dollop of coconut cream and garnished with cilantro – when I can find it, I’ll eat that. Thailand makes me eat things that I wouldn’t normally eat. 12

Bobby Chinn I wouldn’t normally eat fried chicken, but you see it here and you just know it’s going to be good. What’s the strangest thing you’ve ever eaten in Bangkok? Deep-fried beetles. Yum. Food’s part of the lifestyle here, right? I look at regular Thai people, and I think “Wow, they’re eating really great quality food.” And it’s so cheap. I mean, a lot of cultures don’t have that. Indonesia doesn’t have that; and Manila’s lost it to the malls – everything’s in a mall there. snapshots

Beyond food, what does Thailand mean to you? I have a very strong affection for Thailand, a strong feeling for the place and the people. There’s something just very cool about this place and it’s something that I can sense the minute I get off the plane and take in the air. It kind of reminds me just a little bit of New Orleans. They’re a very compassionate people here and then there are the temples and flowers and so on. But I’m not sure I’d ever want to think of coming to Bangkok as being part of business. It’s somewhere I come to enjoy myself. bangkok 101

bangkok 101

snapshots

Snapshots

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings, by Howard Richardson.

metro beat

Festivals Nightlife Wise heads will carry a change of clothes between April 13-15, because this is the time of Songkran, the Thai New Year, when everyone is fair game for a playful soaking. Traditionally, people gently sprinkled water on Buddha images as part of religious ceremonies, and this still happens, particularly at royal temples such as Wat Pho. But Songkran has now morphed into games of mutual drenching with buckets and water cannons, and tourist centres such as Khao San Road become riotous (and very wet) street parties. It’s great fun, but be sure to wrap your camera.

EditionBangkok is a new electronic music festival that aims to bring the world’s top DJs to Asia twice a year for the kind of mega events that drive the dance scene around Europe. The launch, held over two nights (April 24 and 30) at ZEN/CentralWorld (02100-9898), has a line up including international acts Tisto, Ferry Corsten, Markus Schultz and Sandy Rivera, together with a mix of local talent. For full lineup and ticket details see www.opworldwide.com.

Sport

The Living Room

If a kickfest of controlled violence is your bag, the 1st Asian Martial Arts Games throws up a matful of Judo, Wushu, Pencak Silat and sundry forms of unarmed combat at various venues around the capital, from April 25-May 3. For full schedules visit www.bamag2009.com

Pop & Rock Hermann Li gives new meaning to guitar licks by playing with his tongue (occasionally) in the London-based metal band Dragonforce. They’re at the Thunder Dome, Muang Thong Thani on April 10, playing tracks from their latest release Ultra Beatdown, a top 20 album in the US, UK and Japan. Get tickets (B900 and B1,000) from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). There’s a small and cool live music club on RCA called Overtone (02-641-4283) that’s worth visiting for a good programme of Thai rock, including some of the country’s veteran axe bands, like the Olarn Project. US Prog Metal band Misery Signals top the bill on April 1. 14

snapshots

The pick of Bangkok’s jazz scene sees the classic lounge bar Niu’s on Silom (02-2665333, www.niusonsilom.com) host rotating spots throughout the week. Highlights are trumpeter Steve Lowry, guitarist Dan Phillips and singers Rydsma and Cherryl Hayes. The Living Room, in the Sheraton Grande hotel (02649-8888), has a new line up called Triolive, consisting of pianist Randy Cannon, drummer Shawn Kelley (both from the US) and Thai bass man Therdsak Wongvichien. At the Bamboo Bar, in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (02-659-9000), vocalist Victoria Horne fronts the Russian house band every night bar Sunday, from 10pm.

Art Vasan Sitthiket, one of Thailand’s most controversial artists, has an exhibition of paintings and installations inspired by the global financial crisis, called Capitalism is Dying! at Thavibu Gallery (02-266-5454) from April 25 to May 17. The artist, writer and political activist has previously shown at the Venice Biennale and has works in the collection bangkok 101

FILM Reel with laughter at the World Comedy Film Festival, which will show 60 movies from April 23-29 at Paragon Cineplex (02-515-5555) and SF World Cinema, (02-268-8888). Also expected are live comedy routines from Thai and international acts. The short film festival Six Degrees of Separation runs until April 11 at Kiosk café, in the Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC). Screenings, held every Saturday, include Graceland (on April 11), the first Thai short to have been entered into the Cannes Film Festival.

Food & Drinks

Theatre Disney On Ice continues to enthrall kids with interpretations of Snow White, Aladdin, Mulan, and the like, until April 2 at Impact Arena (02-504-5050). Tickets and show times are available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). The traditional Thai puppet venue Aksra Theatre (02-6778888) is currently giving discounts of up to 50% on its B800 tickets. Shows run from Thursday to Sunday at 7pm, with weekend matinees at 1pm.

Sound & Light

It’s the last chance to see the sound and light show The Nine Wonders of Wat Pho, which finishes on April 6. The English language commentary at 6:30pm, 7:30pm, 8:30pm and 9pm daily, explains the history of Bangkok’s oldest temple, which houses the famous Reclining Buddha, along with wall inscriptions of early Thai proverbs and traditional Thai massage techniques. Full details available on 02-226-0335.

EVENT The Bangkok Motor Show (w w w.bangkok-motorshow. com) has concept vehicles and vintage cars, plus all the latest developments from the world’s top marques. At BITEC (02-749-3939) until April 6.

bangkok 101

Bo.lan

Partners Bo and Dylan arrived fresh from the kitchens of David Thompson, at Naam, the world’s only Michelin starred Thai restaurant, and launched Bo.lan with a formidable ambition. “The world’s best Thai restaurant should be in Bangkok, not London,” says Bo, with a ripple of national pride. They’ve imported Thompson’s philosophy of rescuing classic Thai recipes that are fast disappearing in the modern age of convenience food, and produced a pleasingly short and interesting menu, based where possible on carefully sourced regional produce. It incorporates a 10-course set (priced B1,500++) that opens with a traditional herb-infused liquor called WHERE 42 Soi Pichai ya dong, and follows with Ronnarong, Sukhumvit a rollick through the Soi 26, 02-260-2962, spectrum of Thai tastes, OPEN Tue-Sun 6.30pmincluding sweet cured 10.30pm PRICE $$$ pork in coconut cream; bitter seafood soup, and deep-fried fish with a spicy and fiercely sour nam chup baep dtai dipping sauce. While the dishes have real panache, details such as touristy market scene paintings, uncomfortable seating, and a poor wine list with only one choice by the glass, are disappointing. At these prices the ambiance needs to be more than townhouse homey. But the food’s impressive, and Bo.lan could be an important restaurant, possibly inspiring a new movement in what many believe to be a waning, homogenised dining scene. snapshots

Snapshots ee

history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lots of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the Sathorn/Silom

districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas and leafy public parks. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. These gradually-expanding public transpor tation networks, with their

bright, snaking trains carrying wideeyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped relieve the city’s notorious traffic congestion and pollution, but given this City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ but instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It is no surprise that The Guinness Book of Records registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

religion

Did you know?

enlightened (mural painth e majorit y of Thai Buddhist ings in Thai temples often Thais (over 90%) monks once depict tales of his former are T h e r av ad a dyed their lives, called jataka), so most B uddhis t s , w i t h t he own robes Thais focus on attaining rest of the population with colour a better rebirth through split between Muslims, extracted “making merit” – donating Christians, Sikhs and from turmeric and the to the poor or a temple, or Hindus. Older animist beliefs also remain, prac- heartwood and handing out rice to monks leaves from during their morning almstised alongside a verjackfruit trees; gathering processions. sion of the Buddhism now most Nearly all Thai Buddhist that originated with the robes come men will become monks, teachings of Siddhartha chemically if only for a short time. Gautama, the Buddha, dyed. Women cannot be ordained in India around the 6th but some become nuns, alcentury BC. Theravada Buddhism is based on though their numbers remain low. the concepts of dukkha (suffering), Contrary to Western perceptions of anicca (impermanence and tran- Buddhism as a religion above the fray sience), and anatta (impermanence of everyday life, monks and nuns have of the self) – suffering arises through launched HIV-education and drugattachment to impermanent condi- prevention campaigns, orphanages, tions. By working to extinguish at- and other social programmes. More tachment through meditation and controversially, a number of monks proper conduct, Buddhist practi- have begun advocating that Buddhism tioners can eventually attain spiri- should be enshrined in the new contual enlightenment (nirvana), freeing stitution as Thailand’s state religion. For more information on Buddhism them from cycles of rebirth. A soul is reborn according to its progress and meditation courses, check out (or lack of it) towards nirvana, with the World Fellowship of Buddhists at animals forming lower strata and www.wfb-hq.org and the international monks occupying the top. The Bud- homepage of Vipassana meditation dha himself took 550 lives to become centres at www.dhamma.org.

bangkok 101

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Spirit houses Hand in hand with their Buddhist faith, Thais still hold many animist beliefs. Spirit worship is widely practised and spirit houses can be seen on the corner of most residential and commercial properties. By providing the spirits (good and evil) with shelter, it’s hoped that they will protect houses or buildings from any harm or mischief. To make sure the spirits are kept happy, offerings of incense, fruit, flowers or rice are made every day. 17

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customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion. The Monarchy Thai people love their king with deep reverence for the monarchy. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and other public places.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Thais don’t usually shake hands but rather wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows respect and humility.The higher the hands are raised, the more respect is being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. 18

raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand. snapshots

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ don’t step on the threshold ■ don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ be considerate when taking photographs ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

BEAUTY QUEENS At more than one pageant per day, beauty is serious business

very thai Philip Cornwel-Smith

Beauty Queen photography by Prasert Jermjuthitham

Beauty being so vital to “face” culture, Thais swoon over demure maidens parading gowns, grins and virtue. Though many do beauty pageants for fun, half enter for fame and fortune – or as a way to pay for further education. Contests aren’t only for women; men out-beautify men to win Mr titles, while Thai ladyboys out-beautify everybody. Many contests are held outdoors, where every feature must be accentuated and weather resistant. Hair gets built to withstand monsoon gales, either piled into a lacquered helmet called phom klao (gathered-up hair) or aerosolled into a faraa wreath – named after Farrah Fawcett. Faces are caked with make-up to look ultra-white and stay intact under sun, rain or the inevitable tears. By night, vivid costumes must outshine the day-glo backdrop. The winner’s prizes must scream even louder: boldly printed sashes, postersized cheques, and trophies of gold coloured plastic a metre high. Festivals often involve the appeasing of spirits or gods. Judging by the angelic faces on murals, comeliness is next to godliness, so processions and rites require actors to embody these supernatural beings. As the good-looking presumably have good karma, they get picked for parades and for dozens of contests at two national festivals: Songkran and Loy Krathong. Nang Songkran (Miss Thai New Year) represents one of the seven daughters of the Brahmin god Kabila, who take yearly turns to lead the mid-April parade. At Loy Krathong in November, Nang Noppamas evokes the princess of Sukhothai credited with starting observance of this rite to honour the water goddess Phra Mae Khongkha (Mother Ganges).

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt each month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic. Snap up a copy at any good book shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith bangkok 101

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Sightseeing

route 101

hether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

Rattanakosin

Welcome to Rattanakosin Island: historical heartland of modern Bangkok, spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Surrounded by man-made klongs (canals) and the Chao Phraya River, and immune to high-rise developments, its charms include decaying old shophouses (as opposed to 50-storey monsters) and the highest density of

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sacred must-sees in Bangkok. Whether you’re here for a few hours, a few days or more, every itinerary should include some time here. First stop is Wat Arun (p.35), also known as the Temple of Dawn. Actually pre-dating the Rattanakosin era, it’s a cornerstone of Thailand’s history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin then, once at the river, jump on an express boat (ask someone to point out which boat is an express). As you face the river, you want to be going right, upriver. Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its spire aglow, is easy to spot. After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross the river back to Tha Tien pier. Then make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.34). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles de-knotted at the famous Thai massage school. Temple initiation over, head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.33) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.33). Snub the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to pace, reverentially, around this gilded fairytale of a royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.32). Hungry for more Thai history? Then exit and head north across the ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.36). Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably find it is early evening. The rest of your evening is up to you – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some pad thai with the backpackers along Khao San Road. Or hit a cocktail bar like Amorosa, with its picturepostcard views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun.

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recommended sites: n Khao San Road Backpackers and all their material attachments. n Wat Mahathat A centre of Buddhist teaching hemmed in by a jostling amulet market. n The Giant Swing Men reached hazardous heights here during annual ceremonies – until it was banned. n Phra Athit Road Bohemian cafes, a tranquil park and an old fort converge upon one treeshaded street.

sightseeing

Dining pit-stops: Use these restaurants to recharge en route. n The Deck Open-air restaurant with stunning views of river-straddling Wat Arun. 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com n Khin Lom Chom Saphan Feast on Thai seafood while eyeballing river reflections of Rama VIII Bridge. 11/6 Soi Samsen 3 | 02-628-8382 n Thipsamai Famous pad thai restaurant. 313 Mahachai Rd | www.thipsamai.com n Tha Chang Food Market A lipsmacking local market unfurls here each day. 21

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Riverside

lowly winding its way through the city, the mighty Chao Phraya drains a river basin the size of Britain. Until the beginning of the 20th century, Bangkok was devoid of asphalt roads and commerce was conducted entirely by boat on this great brown swathe and its network of interconnecting klongs (canals). While the completion of the Taksin Bridge in the 1990s signalled the end of tall ships sailing into Bangkok, today it remains integral to city life. Longtailed boats take visitors on colourful klong tours; converted rice barges and pleasure cruisers ply back and forth to ancient capital Ayutthaya (p.38); tug boats pull heavily laden rice barges; and thousands of commuters – monks, office workers and students alike – hop on and off its speedy river taxis. Joining them is recommended. Not only can you shrink journey times between the city centre and the major sights, it’s also the best way to see the gold-spired temples, Catholic churches, glassy hotels and rickety shacks that have encroached, over the centuries, along its banks. And did we mention the sense of freedom? After being stuck in gridlock hell, it’s nothing less than exhilarating. Kick off by heading to your nearest 22

express boat pier. Five different routes ply the water, each identifiable by the coloured flag that flutters at the back. Look for a orange flag taxi heading northbound and hop on – it stops at all piers of interest to tourists, runs all day and costs a measly flat rate of B15 each time you board (there are also tourist boats charging B150 for an all-day pass, though these are less frequent). Enjoy the scenery and breezes, but don’t get too comfy – you’re getting off at Thewet (pier N15). Look out for frenzied fish fighting for crumbs thrown in by local merit-makers. Walk away from the pier and turn left over a footbridge to see the wet market. The royal district, Dusit, is also nearby. Jump on an express boat going downriver, and pull out your camera – you’re about to pass beneath the harp-like Rama VIII Bridge. The next compelling pier is in the Old City district of Bang Lamphu: Phra Athit (N13). If you have bohemian leanings or fancy roaming backpacker refugee camp Khao San Road, this is the place to wander. Next, make haste to Wang Lang (N10). As well as young shoppers bagging cheap fashions, here grisly formaldehyde sights await you at the Siriraj Hospital’s Forensics Museum. Had enough pickled flesh? Then sightseeing

take a cross-river ferry (cost only B3) to Tha Phra Chan Pier, where a right onto Maharat Road leads to a pavement/ portal into Bangkok’s spiritualised side. Walking past Wat Mahathat on your left, you’ll see vendors peddling amulets, phallic charms, herbal remedies, even false teeth. Keep going: the rot-stained shophouses here are some of the oldest in town. Soon you’ll come to a junction; the crenulated white walls of the Grand Palace complex on your left, a thicket of food stalls on your right. Plough through it towards Tha Chang (N9) and hop on a boat to Tha Tien (N8), where a parade of trading shophouses leads to the home of the reclining Buddha, Wat Po (p.30).Also, here’s where you hop on a cross-river ferry for Wat Arun (p.35). Flagging? Don’t give up now – the following stop-offs are charmers. For the 24-hour flower market, Pak Khlong Talad (p.104), look no further than Memorial Bridge (N6). For a night in Chinatown – a Sino-Thai confusion of crumbling go-downs, pungent aromas and bird’s-nesty delights – disembark at Ratchawongse (N5). Antique-hunters should land at either Sri Phaya (N3) or Oriental (N1). The former sits beside antique mall River City, the latter a sign-posted stroll away from objets d’art centre OP Place (p.102). River truly conquered, finish in apt, often unforgettable fashion - with a breezy river cruise (p.63) or waterside dinner (see opposite).

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Riverside Restaurants Dinner at a restaurant on the Chao Phraya is a must – not only do you get cool breezes and fine food, but also the river at its most majestic. Reservations recommended. n The Deck Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com/ dining | $$ Has an ambitious French/nouveau Thai menu, but the postcard perfect views of Wat Arun steal the show. n Khin Lom Chom Saphan 11/6 Samsen Soi 3 | 02-628-8382 | www.khinlomchomsaphan.com | $ This boisterous, so-so seafood restaurant seduces with its breezy views of King Rama VIII bridge. n Sala Rim Naam Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 597 Charoen Nakhon Rd | 02659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com Once you’ve stepped off the free shuttle boat from Saphan Taksin pier, prepare for a traditional Thai dazzler of a night. n Supatra Riverhouse 288 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun-Ammarin Road | 02-411-0305 This wooden, often-crowded place combines all things Siam: folky theatre, views of the Grand Palace, classic Thai food.

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Sightseeing

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cHINATOWN

hinatown, or Yaowarat as it is known locally, is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, dramatic Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. The centre of Bangkok’s Chinese community actually used to be a couple of clicks west, but when King Rama V decided to build his palace on Rattanakosin Island the neighbourhood decamped en masse to its current location. It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in the Chinese pharmacy windows.

Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive at night when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. It’s quite a sight. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and look over to your right to take in Bangkok’s impressive main train station. This Renaissance-style edifice dates back to the early 20th century when King Rama V commissioned a bunch of Italian architects and engineers to give the capital a dash of European élan. Head straight on from Exit 1 and cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap ThaiChina Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.34) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex. Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/ impressed by all the restaurants sightseeing

advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1 Rd). This wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than hair clips and rubber sandals on offer now. The lane’s not wide to start with, but fill it with food carts, dawdling shoppers and delivery boys on Vespas loaded with thousands of Hello Kitty schoolbags and you feel like a human pinball. Great fun! Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonial-style warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.104) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross back over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on,

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n Canton House Chaloem Buri Intersection | 02-2213335 | 11am-10pm Cheap, tasty and air-conditioned, Canton House has a great selection of dim-sum from B15 a pop.

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Eat n T&K Seafood 49-52 Soi Phaduang, Yaowarat Rd | 022234519 | 4:30pm-2am Watch the crowds roll by and dishes being hoisted down on fishing lines from the upstairs kitchen.

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n Wat Mangkorn Kamalawat Fight your way through the vendors in the entranceway and head straight to the temple at the back for a truly memorable experience.

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Seng Hong 371-373 Yaowarat Rd | 02-222-0635 | 9am-midnight Look out for the bright yellow sign, then squeeze past the crabs, ducks and shark fins into an air-conditioned dining room for tasty, reasonablypriced Chinese fare.

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See n San Chao Poy Sien OK, it looks like a souvenir shop, but it’s actually a funky little shrine. Pop upstairs to the weird plastic cave-room to see the statue of the Chinese god Kuan Yim.

n Thian Fah Foundation This atmospheric complex incorporates a hospital and another, more elegant, shrine dedicated to Kuan Yim.

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there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’re there at breakfast time, head on in for a seething, groaning wet-market with everything from huge sacks of tea and dried mushrooms to plastic tubs of writhing catfish. If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neon-lit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Rd will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery to give your feet a well-earned rest.

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Sightseeing

route 101

Sukhumvit

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ike Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner, Sukhumvit Road is a futuristic thriller – a flawed, frenetic, yet often compelling urban streetscape. Towering hotels, condominiums and offices sprawl east across its skyline, while down below a Who’s Who of world races moves anonymously amongst them. Along its main stretch cars and concrete assail the senses, while down its many flanking sois calmer, more serene atmospheres unfold. Once a suburban backwater dominated by a stretch of rice fields,

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Sukhumvit has evolved into the residential destination of choice for aspirational Thais and the expats who work with them. As a result, it has developed its own village culture – marked by twee cafés, achingly hip boutiques and a veritable nation of fantastical day spas. In other words, when temple and museum-weariness set in, Sukhumvit could very well offer the perfect antidote. Only helping matters is the Skytrain, which swooshes like a slo-mo bullet above it. Get a quick jump on the day and loosen up with a morning stroll around the lake in Benjakitti Park. Located adjacent to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, which hosts world class expos weekly (see calendar pp.14-15), it is easily accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. Next head to the Siam Society for a quick shot of culture. On Asok Road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross), it’s an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures and exhibitions. And out back is a stunning Northern Lanna teak house/ethnological museum. sightseeing

Benjakitti Park

After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain and off to Phrom Phong station. Here you will find the cultural epicentre of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, Emporium. While you can easily get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, world-class designers and up-andcoming Thai labels here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) on the 6th floor which continually stages thought-provoking, and usually free, exhibitions. Even better yet, TCDC is a short escalator ride away from the food floor, a United Nations of culinary possibilities. If your back is aching from scrutinising all those exhibits, why not take a stretch among the modern sculptures and trim greenery of adjoining Benjasiri Park? Shopaholics can probe Thong Lo further, staking out the neighbourhood for designer clothing, jewellery, furniture and books. Or, should you be toying with matrimony, wedding garb. Hop on over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice of neon Tokyo and watch as beautiful people and their even prettier cars roll in. Once dinnertime bangkok 101

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rolls around check out “Japan Town” in Thong Lo Soi 13, where a clutch of great Japanese restaurants like Uomasa lurk. Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, the night time is definitely the right time. Drinking, dining, dancing, debauchery... it’s all here. For a go on a shisha pipe, Sukhumvit Soi 3 is Bangkok’s very own Little Arabia. Those looking to make a very Thai night of it (whisky sodas, a Thai live

EAT Coffee Bean by Dao | Casa Viva Apartment, Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-713-2504~8 The cheesecakes at this local hi-so cake stop are out of this world. n Crêpes & Co | 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | 02-653-3990 Nestled in a quiet soi, in a palm-fronded garden, this French/Meditterean cafe serves an excellent all-day brunch. n Agalico | 20 Sukhumvit 51 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-662-5857 An all-white tea lounge situated in a lush garden. Only open weekends.Take a ride down Sukhumvit Soi 51, and take the first right. n Uomasa | Nihomura, 87 Thong Lo Soi 13 | 02-392-6575 Found in the wooden Nihomura compound, Uomasa is particularly recommended for sashimi lovers. n

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DRINK band, mini-skirted girls) should head to one of the many jumping joints along Thong Lo or Ekamai. Sukhumvit Soi 11 – home to veterans like Bed Supperclub and Q Bar (p.84) – will satisfy your international clubbing needs. But for the best of Sukhumvit’s beau monde haunts its got to be Long Table (p.90): a cocktail at this 25th floor design bar, with its movers and shakers and electric panoramas, is not easily forgotten.

n Shades of Retro | Soi Tararom

2,Thong Lo (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | BTS Thong Lo | 08-1824-8011 | 1pmmidnight People craving a drink and some laid-back conversation need look no further than antique store/ nostalgia café Shades of Retro. n Cheap Charlie’s | Sukhumvit Soi 11 Bangkok’s most bizarre bar (p.88). n Nest | Sukhumvit Soi 11 Across the road from Q Bar, this sleek yet cosy rooftop bar won’t ruffle your feathers (p.91). n Nang Len | Ekamai Soi 5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-711-6565 The name means “to sit around” inThai. However you’d probably win the lottery before you find a seat here on weekends. SPA n Divana Divine Spa | 103 Thong

Uomasa

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

Pathumwan

route 101

Siam and Pr atunam

BACC

CentralWorld

a rest and take a boat ride on Klong Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at Jim Thompson’s House (see p.32). Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi. Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the crisp, concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modernart scene central. After all this walking, a sit-down is probably in order. CentralWorld, Asia’s largest “lifestyle shopping complex”,

houses scores of great restaurants and a fantastic cinema complex, where you can treat yourself to a ‘luxury cinema’ screening (see p.56). Top off your day with a yin-yang cocktail at Centara Grand hotel’s ultra-chic rooftop bar, Red Sky (p.90). You don’t even need to leave the bracing confines of the CentralWorld complex to get there. Just take an escalator to level one, catch a lift to the hotel’s lobby, and from there make like a rocket to the 55th floor. Erawan Shrine

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he Pratunam and Siam Square districts are famed as a shopper’s paradise. From the chaos of the shop-4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. Hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the canal (khlong) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 105), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand. Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet

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bangkok 101

Sightseeing

Niu’s on Silom

route 101

Silom & Sathorn

he Sathorn/Silom area personifies Bangkok’s split personality. The white collar, bustling crux of Bangkok’s business world by day, this whirlwind area houses a grab bag of cultural and religious sites. But when night falls this area hustles, gyrates, and rears a very different head. Home to a large chunk of Bangkok’s corporate world, this Silom and Sathorn spills over with yuppies and bigwigs during the day, kicking it up a gear after office hours, with a jiving scene of clubs, expat pubs, some very shady characters, and one oh-so-notorious little lane.

Set the alarm and beat the sun to the punch; there’s much to be done today. Take the MRT to the Sam Yan stop. Walk towards Silom and take a venomous venture into the Snake Farm (see p.37) and watch wranglers extract poison from serpents. If you dare you can even pet a cobra or kiss a python! If you’re still alive, continue on for a nice stroll in Lumpini Park, Bangkok’s largest public open area. If it’s the weekend take a taxi into the past with former P.M. Kukrit’s Heritage House (see p.32). Go back down tree-lined Convent Road, known as Bangkok’s French Quarter for its cluster of French cafés, butcher’s shop and a sightseeing

bakery, La Boulange, where you can have a light lunch or grab a freshly baked baguette. After filling up follow the throngs of office workers into Soi Lalai Sup (“the soi that melts your assets”), squeezing through the chaos, hunting down bargain clothes, gifts and other knick-knack paddy-whacks. Further down Silom on Thanon Pan, you will come across Wat Mahamariamman. Referred to by locals as Wat Kaek, it is the most famous Hindu temple in Bangkok and rituals are performed here daily at noon. Right across the street is Kathmandu Gallery (see p.49) featuring great photo exhibits, and also Silom Village which is a nice spot to pick up some handicrafts. Just before sunset hits, head up to the top floor of the Banyan Tree and ascend the aptly titled Moon Bar at Vertigo (see p.91). Two hundred metres above the pavement, this bar’s main attraction is the completely unobstructed 360° Bangkok panorama. Do not stray too far over the railing as the only thing to break your fall here is the sidewalk. Once you’ve soaked it all in, or if your knees are shaking, descend back to street level. The night is still far too young. If you’re a jazz-lover, now would be a good time to catch some live sax or singing at Niu’s on Silom. Otherwise, cab it to Lumpini National Boxing Stadium (see p.112) around the

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bangkok 101

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corner, which will guarantee adrenaline rushes, as young men kick and punch the hell out of each other. For something less violent, Suan Lum Night Bazaar (see p.104), a pricier but less sweaty version of Chatuchak is just seconds away. Seafood restaurants abound here and the Joe Louis Puppet Theater (see p.54) is great for a cultural show. There’s also a good beer garden. For some rowdy (and raunchy) times back to Silom you go. There’s still shopping to be done here as many street vendors are just starting their day selling trinkets, faux-antiques, clothes, and cheap knock-offs. If you’re looking for something a bit more hip, the bars and clubs in Silom Soi 4 will suffice. If you’re gay, look no further than same-sex central, Silom Soi 2. And if you’re feeling frisky and don’t mind being harassed by touts, immerse yourself in the decadent notso-underworld that is Soi Patpong. Be careful around here and do not follow strangers offering free shows. But don’t hold back, because whatever you choose to do in this part of town at this time, you’re most likely to wake up with no recollection of it.

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EAT n La Boulange 2-2/1 Convent Rd | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-631-0354 | www.laboulange.com | daily 7am -10pm Grab a light lunch or fresh baguette at this French bakery. n Coyote on Covent Sivadon Building, 1/2 Convent Road | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-631-2325 Mouthwatering Mexicana: Burritos, enchiladas, 50-plus Margeritas. n Souvlaki Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng; MRT Silom | 02-632-9967 | www.souvlaki.co.th | 11am - 2am Greek cuisine till late. n Jok Sam Yan Phayathai Rd, btw Soi Chula 52 and 54 | MRT Sam Yan | Mon-Sun 3-8am & Mon-Fri 3-8pm This Thai shop-house institution only sells one dish: jok moo (rice congee with pork).

n Tapas

DRINK n OPUS 64 Pan Road, Soi Wat Kaek, Silom | BTS Surasak | 02-637-9899 An urbane wine bar stocking 400, almost exclusively Italian, labels.

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Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng | 02632-7982 | 8pm-2am House music and cocktails all week long in this Moroccan grotto. n Parkbridge 3rd Floor, 5 Patpong Soi 2 | BTS Sala Daeng | 6pm-5am This elevated electro bar is giving nights out in Patpong a less scandalous name. SHOP n Café

Ubuntu Shop 9, Grand Terrace Condominium, Sala Daeng Rd | 02-632-0381 Buy everything from coffee to rustic art and t-shirts at this funky hybrid. n Jim Thompson 9 Surawong Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-8100 | www.jimthompson.com Sumptuous silk items at the American enigma’s flagship store. Spa

sightseeing

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: a Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. 32

sightseeing

bangkok 101

the grand palace

THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B250 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s holiest and most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m2 royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated white-walls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite your being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits.Though the current king now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner

in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is well worth seeing, and there are a couple of state rooms and other halls that are open to visitors. These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. Multilingual tour guides can be hired. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. This was completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, and forms the northeastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. It was then moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings

before being taken by the Lao to Vientiane. Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and brought it back to Thailand where he placed it at the centre of his new capital. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature must-see examples of Thai mural art, documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully (a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced). And for a wide, panoramic perspective try looking back while stood on Sanam Luang, the ancient public green used for royal ceremonies and political rallies. Seen from here, the complex’s many flameshaped roof eaves and gold-mirrored chedi, which glow an iridescent orange at night, are no less awe-inspiring.

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

The Giant Swing

temples WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art 34

and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the respected Maha Makut Buddhist University, this temple is par ticularly important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha sightseeing

possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good fortune.

วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-5pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

bangkok 101

WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store. Trimurti Shrine

Wat Arun Ganesha Shrine

ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart.To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense bangkok 101

sightseeing

sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-224-1333 | www.thailandmuseum. com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B40 Previously a palace dur ing the reign of R a ma V, t he National Museum features extensive displays of T hai ar tefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS Supalai Grand Tower Building 26F, Rama III Rd | 02-653-5555 | www.tillekeandgibbins.com | by appointment only | BTS Surasak Condemn it or not, forgery is a huge draw for some. In 1989, the law firm Tilleke & Gibbins decided to convert collected fake goods into educational tools for law students. An entertaining site – from Toblerone chocolate bars to belly-button rings, from anti-malarial tablets to fake MSG – 1,500 pieces are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals. Call for an appointment and please don’t use it as means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong later that day.

ติลลิกี แอนด์ กิบบินส์ พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สนิ ค้า ปลอม และเลียนแบบ ชัน้ 26 อาคารศุภาลัย แกรนด์ ทาวเวอร์ ถ.พระราม 3

Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being The Sylvanian, which has good coffee, a ball pit and kids’ menu, on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; and Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium. Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Eskimo. There are also a fair few attractions that should appeal to the wee ones. The city’s parks (see opposite) offer a chance to let off steam – although the mid-afternoon sun is best avoided – and Dusit Zoo is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. A couple of good museums are also aimed at inquisitive young minds. The Children’s Discovery Museum has a science and nature theme and is handily located near to Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.104). The Museum of Siam, meanwhile, is a short walk from Wat Po (p.34) and located in the rather grand Ministry of Commerce. It explores the history of Thailand and is full of touch screens and cool things that go beep. Kids’ Museums n The Children’s Discovery Museum (map C1) Kamphaeng Petch 4 Rd, Chatuchak | 0-2615-7333 | www.bkkchildrenmuseum.com | Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am6pm | B150 n Museum of Siam (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd, Pra Nakorn | 02-622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B300

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3, #5) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am-5pm | B30 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. sightseeing

The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

bangkok 101

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 |5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

the great outdoors

Siam Ocean World

CHATUCHAK and QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | daily 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | daily 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5

Snake Farm

bangkok 101

QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | sightseeing

02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri 8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

SIAM OCEAN WORLD (map C3) B1/B2, Siam Paragon | Rama I Rd | 02-687-2000 | daily 9am-10pm | adults B450/kids (80-120cm) B280 | BTS Siam | www.siamoceanworld.co.th Journey through 7 zones containing 3,000 varieties of fish. Enjoy an educational 25-minute tour of the 2.8 million litre Oceanarium in a glass-bottomed boat. You can even dive with sharks, supervised by instructors from Planet Scuba (www.sharkdive.org). Or opt to watch the penguin or shark feeding (twice daily), or for the Magical Mermaid Show (three times a day). สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 37

Sightseeing

day tripping It’s easy getting around in Thailand, and there are plenty of worthwhile excursions within easy reach of Bangkok; some one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent.

AYUTTHAYA The capital of Siam from the 14th to 18th century was one of the richest cities in the East, but after it was attacked by the Burmese in 1767, most of the city was destroyed and its ruins left to nature. However, over the past 30 years its remnants – graceful reclining Buddhas, Khmer-influenced stupas and crumbling temple ruins – have been renovated into a Unesco historical park, which, 85km from Bangkok, makes an ideal daytrip from the city. The best way to go is by river. The major riverside hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City. Many of these combine the trip with a visit to the Bang Pa-in Summer Palace. A former royal garden retreat, this presents a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly reflecting King Rama V’s love for all things European. Once at Ayutthaya, hire a bike and see highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit, Wat Na Phra Meru, Wat Phra Mahathat and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. 38

LOPBURI Those inspired by the ruins of Ayutthaya will also enjoy walkable Lopburi, which features ruins from a period spanning over 1,000 years. During the Dvaravati period (6th-11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo but traces were wiped out by the Khmers, who took over the region during Angkor’s heyday in the 10th century. The Thais subsequently took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. During the reign of King Narai in the 1600s, the city was for a time the country’s second capital when he fortified the city in response to the Dutch navy threatening Ayutthaya. King Narai built a palace in the city, the remnants of which survive to this day and serve as a public museum. In addition, the city is littered with crumbling wats (temples) in a mixture of Khmer and Thai styles. The most famous is three-prang shrine Phra Prang Sam Yot (a prang is a spirelike vault), home to most of the city’s mischievous macaque monkey population. NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120mhigh chedi (or stupa), the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century version. Situated around 55km west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in Thailand, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history.The other big draw is the Rose Garden, a picturesque 70-acre park featuring botanical gardens and mock-Thai village cultural shows. SAMUT PRAKAN Just down the road – 29km away – Samut Prakan has three big draws. Should you fancy watching animal sightseeing

gymnastics, the Crocodile Farm offers daily crocodile wrestling and elephant shows. To see the whole country in a day hit the Ancient City: a museum park, designed in the shape of Thailand, featuring model representations of its historical buildings, temples and architectural heritage. Lastly, the Erawan Museum presents Thai antiques, holy iconography and Buddhist statues in a giant three-headed elephant structure surrounded by landscaped, statuestudded gardens. KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film Bridge on the River Kwai, this town is a popular weekend getaway,offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreign visitors are attracted by the area’s history – the “Thai Burma Death Railway,” built by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II, was notorious due to its high casualty count and seemingly impossible route. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The countryside around Kanchanaburi is also stunning and home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking. KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Home to wild elephants, deer, boar, tigers and uncountable species of birdlife, this enormous forest (2½ hour’s drive from Bangkok) is one of the world’s most impressive national parks. Ecotourists can hike through the jungle to bangkok 101

Lop Buri

Uthai Thani

Chai Nat Nakhon Ratchasima

Ang Thong Saraburi

Suphan Buri Ayutthaya

Kanchanaburi

Nakhon Pathom

Koh Kred

Pathumthani

Nakhon Nayok

Sa Kaeo

Nonthaburi Bangkok

Ratchaburi

Samut Sakhon Samut Songkhram

Samut Prakan

Chachoengsao

Chon Buri

Phetchaburi

altitudes of over 1,000m. It’s best to hire a guide as it’s easy to get lost – the park is over 2,000km2 in size, and local maps are not to be trusted. If you fancy staying the night there are staterun bungalows in the park and some luxe resorts nearby. Wine lover? Some of Thailand’s top wineries – Chateau des Brumes, Granmonte Estate, PB Valley – are to be found in the area. NAKHON RATCHASIMA (KORAT) One of Thailand’s silk weaving centres and an important trade hub, Nakhon Ratchasima is the country’s largest province and host to Korat, its secondlargest city. The town, surrounded by a moat and city gates, is rewarding; and the surrounding countryside has a fine collection of ancient Khmer ruins left over from the Angkor period, the grandest of which are in the recently restored Phi Mai Historical Park (60km north of Korat). If you love silky threads, Pak Thong Chai (30km north of Korat) is Thailand’s leading silk village. And for horse-riding and the chance to milk cows, visit Farm Chok Chai, a working farm popular with Stetson-wearing agro-tourists. bangkok 101

KOH KRED What’s not to love? On the way to Ayutthaya, this petite, car-free island on the Chao Phraya River is home to a Mon community renowned for their red-clay pottery skills. Seriously sleepy during the week, the palm-clad place goes into commercial overdrive on weekends.Astonished city-slickers (“so near Bangkok, yet so quiet”) slowly stroll round its narrow footpaths, past pottery warehouses, old Buddhist temples and homes selling freshly kilned ceramics and tasty Mon kanom (snacks). By the time you’ve gone full circle, a few hours later, you’re smitten. Intrepid souls take the regular express boat up the Chao Phraya River to Nonthaburi and hire a long-tailed boat (B500 approx). Alternatively, on Sundays, the Chao Phraya Express ferry offers a guided tour for B300 (www.chaophrayaboat.co.th). SARABURI Though often over shadowed by neighbouring Lopburi,this central province, 108km north of Bangkok, still packs a thrill or sightseeing

two. Thanks to its 1½m-long Buddha footprint, Wat Phra Putthabhat is one of the most important temples in the region, a popular place of pilgrimage. Caves, like Tham Phra Pothisat, are also draws due to their beautiful stalactite formations and Buddha bas-reliefs, as is a dip in Chet Sao Noi Waterfall. However, Saraburi’s main attraction is definitely in the fields – from Nov through to Jan bright sunflowers blanket the land, providing vibrant photo opportunities galore. PHETCHABURI Sacred Buddhist caves, neoclassical palaces, a quirky provincial market town – there’s more to Petchaburi province than the beach resort town Cha Am. Best savoured over a long-weekend, sights include beautiful Wat Yai, a 17th century temple complex; and the stalactite and sculpture strewn Tham Khao Luang cave. To the west is also the camperfriendly (and scandalously underrated) Kaeng Krachan National Park, where treks, butterfly and bird watching, water rafting and a stunning reservoir, fringed by soft-sloped mountains, await you. CHACHOENGSAO No more than an hour’s drive to the east, Chachoengsao province rarely makes the travel guides, but is popular with locals looking for tranquillity amidst temples and wildlife. Smothered along the banks of the Bang Pakong River, the town boasts the temple Wat Sothon and 100-yearold market Talad Baan Mai, where vendors prepare and sell traditional delicacies from within lovely, wooden King Rama V-era shophouses. Renting a boat to go see the old teak houses, temples and raft houses that line the sides – and the dolphins who migrate here between Nov and Feb – is also popular. 39

Sightseeing

RATCHABURI The Damnoen Saduak floating market is definitely the hokiest in the land.But Ratchaburi province, “The Land of the Kings”, has other qualities: surrounding klongs (canals), hot stream Bo Khloung, the cascading Kaew Chan waterfall, and a handful of strange stalagmite and stalactite caves. For bohemian types there’s also the Suan Silp Baan Din Arts Centre, staging performances of old Thai arts and workshops. And at Wat Khanon temple, Nang Yai puppetry (an evocative but dying artform where puppet silhouettes are projected onto fabric screens) survives. Performances are on Saturdays.

CHON BURI This heavily industralised province on the country’s eastern seaboard is most famous for Pattaya, Thailand’s Sodomon-Sea. For a more wholesome outing skip that and try Koh Si Chang, a small fishing island a mere 40-minute/B40 ferry hop across the Gulf of Thailand from Si Racha Town. King Rama V loved it there; and after three or four hours exploring hillside temples, admiring summer palaces and picking pretty pebbles off its cute coves, so will you. On the way home, Baen San is a truly local, bucketand-spade beach; and Talad Nong Mon, in Chonburi town, offers toothsome regional snacks like khao lam (sweet sticky rice in bamboo tubes).

SUPHAN BURI This province is where it all went down: where the legendary King Naresuan fended off Burma and rid Thailand of foreign occupation, freeing it from the Pegu Kingdom way back in 1592. At the Don Chedi, 30km from central Suphan Buri, there is a statue erected in his honour, as well as an exhibition hall and museum. Other tourist magnets include the selfexplanatory Thai Rice Farmer’s Museum, Bueng Chawak Aquarium (64km out of town), and a clutch of ancient temples, many of which are believed to be almost 1,000 years old.

FLOATING MARKETS Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose. n DAMNOEN SADUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 1530 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang. GETTING THERE By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 4345558).

Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday, Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly. GETTING THERE By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-424-5448 or 02424-1712). n AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only

n TALING CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries. 40

sightseeing

open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season. GETTING THERE By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram.The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram. bangkok 101

Sightseeing

day trip

Nakhon Pathom

angkok can be a bit too much on your visual-auditory system. Should Bangkokphobia ever strike, nothing beats a short hop to the countryside, and once you leave the city you’ll be amazed at: a) how quickly you leave the urban grittiness behind; and b) how many attractions the satellite areas have to offer. Merely one hour – 60km – west from Silom, Nakhon Pathom awaits easy-going explorers packed with sights varying in attractiveness to wackiness. Traditionalists shouldn’t miss Phra Pathom Chedi (also the site for the town’s main Songkran celebrations) just next to the train station. Dominating the town, it’s one of the world’s largest pagodas (120m) and one of Thailand’s holiest Buddhist structures. Its foundations date back two millennia. Nakhon Pathom is also one of Bangkok’s fruit and vegetable baskets. The local pomelos are said to be the Kingdom’s best – the fragrant Yam Som-o (pomelo salad with peanuts, shrimp and chicken) is available all over town. Sam Phran, a suburb of Nakhon Pathom, has a cute

market just outside the local District Office, across from the adjacent pier, hordes of locals enjoy peaceful longtail boat tours along rivers and canals, fruit orchards and farms. Come early for these as they tend to take 2-3 hours. For the folks with kids (and the ones looking for more absurd fun), head to the Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo (B500/300, www. elephantshow.com), a zoo-like park with madcap pachyderm shows reenacting ancient Siamese battles and an enormous pond, home to thousands of crocs (if it’s your cuppa tea, you’ll enjoy the heart-stopping crocodile wrestling show, too). One kilometre towards Bangkok lies the Rose Garden (B450/250), the area’s main attraction. The 70-acre park is a vast green expanse built in the midst of a rural landscape. The garden itself can be a bit disappointing but the Thai village with its colourful cultural and animal shows and boxing demos is a hit with kids, while adults will find fun shopping for surprisingly cheap handicrafts. It might sound cheesy but it’s actually a fun place. Your local travel agent or hotel concierge offers a plethora of day trips, so getting there shouldn’t be difficult.The complex also offers intriguing Thai Living Packages sightseeing

(1-3 nights), which immerse you into a lifestyle that is quickly vanishing in modern Thailand. Should you want to prolong your stay, the only acceptable choice are the Rose Garden’s amazing antique Thai teak houses – heaps of style for big bucks. A splendid stopover while returning is Taling Chan Market, Bangkok’s only “authentic” floating market. It offers fantastic shopping opportunities, excellent restaurants, serene boat trips along orchid farms and truly Thai rural life. Make sure you drop by Phutthamonthon Park on your way back – the impressive Walking Buddha statue amid a tranquil park, dedicated to Buddhism, is worth an hour or so. Getting there Catch a B40 bus from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal for the hourlong trip, or jump on one of many trains (www.railway.co.th) that also take about an hour. bangkok 101

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

upcountry festivals

10-19 April

Annual fair, Phetchaburi

The charming, laid-back town of Phetchaburi slips into party mode midApril, as folks get out their dancing shoes and party hats to take part in the annual Phra Nakhon Khiri Muang Phet Fair. Events will be taking place at various locations, but the focal point is to be the Khao Wang Palace, on top of Phetchaburi’s iconic Khao Khiri hill.The festival is to pay respect to kings from years gone by and, this year, also marks the 150th anniversary of Khao Wang Palace.

31 March - 3 April

Poi Sang Long ceremony, Mae Hong Son

Boys aged between seven and 14 are ordained as novice monks during an extravagant festival that draws huge crowds. Over the course of four days, the boys’ heads are shaved and they are paraded through the streets, calling in at various temples and holy sites. Most of the ceremony, which has Burmese Shan roots, is centred at Wat Chong Kham and Wat Chong Klang temples in the picturesque northern outpost of Mae Hong Son. bangkok 101

April 13-15 Songkran

Get ready to drench yourself in this month’s Songkran – Thai New Year – festivities. There are many different events going on at various sites, including light and sound shows, beauty pageants, Buddha-image processions, exhibitions and more. But one thing is for sure during these hot days – there will be lots of water flying around. Here are but a few of the celebrations going on in other provinces. Note that though the majority of celebrations take place from April 13-15, many towns and provinces adhere to their own Songkran calendars. Visit www.songkran.net for more. n Chiang Mai Songkran Festival | Chiang Mai Municipal Area | 13-15 April n Had Yai Midnight Songkran Festival | Niphat Uthit 1 Road and Sanehanuson Road | Hat Yai, Songkhla | 11-13 April n PHRA PRADAENG Songkran Festival | Phra Pradaeng District, Samut Prakan | 15-19 April n Wan Lai Pattaya Songkran Festival | Pattaya, Chonburi | 18-19 April n Wan Lai Bangsaen Songkran Festival | Bangsaen Beach, Chonburi | 16-17 April n Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Songkran Festival | Ayutthaya Historical Park, All Around the city island of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya | 12-14 April n SUKHOTHAI Songkran Festival | Sukhothai Historical Park | 12-14 April n Songkran Festival at Cha-Am | Cha-Am Beach | 12-13 April n Mae Hong Son Songkran Festival | Mae Hong Son Subdistrict | 17-18 April

24-26 April

Fishing competition, Sai Buri

As temperatures soar, fishy fellows head to the coast for 22nd Sai Buri fishing contest. Teams from Malaysia and Singapore will compete against Thai crews in this game fishing event that takes place at Wa Sukri Beach, 50km from Pattani town in Thailand’s Deep South. sightseeing

Sightseeing

upcountry escape

Pha Taem

Ubon Ratchathani Way Out East

s a crowd looks out from a windy sandstone clifftop, across a wide, deep gorge spanning deciduous forest, the mighty Mekong River and on into neighbouring Laos, an orange fireball sun drops slowly behind a plateau in the west. Everyone gathered, from tired grandpa to boisterous little grandson, goes quiet. There are many reasons to visit Ubon Ratchathani, the cradle of Northeast Thai or Isaan civilisation – the culture, the people, the mega-spicy som tum. However, surely none are as spectacular as sundown in Pha Taem National Park. The easternmost spot in the country’s easternmost province, this 340km2 slice of rugged Mother Nature offers not only some of the most dramatic sunsets and sunrises in all Siam, but also its very first. One must also see the pre-historic cliff paintings – of giant Mekong catfish, fish traps, elephants, turtles, dogs and cave-men – found along a 3km walking trail leading down from the aforementioned Pha Taem lookout. And, scattered all across the park 44

Somtum

are more panoramic clifftops, exotic waterfalls, fields of blue-yellow dusita flowers, and smatterings of sao chaliang (mushroom-shaped sandstone pillars). Even those who don’t know their geology from their geography will be enchanted. Campsite spots are available for rent at the Pha Taem Visitor Centre (as are some tents). Be aware, however, that a chill breeze blows in cold season (October-February), and that booking ahead, especially during public holidays, is wise. New Year’s Eve, when crowds flock to catch the first sunrise of the New Year, is especially popular. A handful of state-run bungalows are also available, but booking in advance is essential. See www.thaiforestbooking. com or www.dnp.go.th for more. The less outdoorsy/organised usually opt to stay outside the park at nearby Khong Jiam, a laid-back little border village nearby. Perched atop a pretty peninsula, at the confluence of the Mekong and Mun rivers, it’s a mellow, do-nothing-much sort of place (just the tonic, thank-you, after a sightseeing

Sao Chaliang

bangkok 101

Pha Taem cliff murals

Getting There By Air Air Asia: 1 daily flight (7:25am) | 02-515-9999 | www.airasia.com Thai Airways: 3 daily flights (6am, 1:40pm, 5:15pm) | 02-356-1111 | www.thaiair.com By Bus An air-conditioned coach leaves at 9pm nightly from Bangkok’s northeastern bus terminal (BTS Mo Chit). Price is B736. Journey time 11 hours. 02-936-2852 | www.transport.co.th

Pha Taem flowers

By Car From Bangkok, take Highway 1 to Saraburi and Highway 2 to Nakhon Ratchasima. Then take Highway 226 and proceed to Ubon Ratchathani via Buri Ram, Surin and Si Sa Ket. Total distance 629km. 02-251-1131 | www.avisthailand.com

Roadside homewares

day pacing around the aforesaid). Not that it has nothing to offer. There’s picturesque hillside temple Wat Tam Khuha Sawan, cross-border views aplenty, and a small flotilla of floating restaurants. You can also commandeer a longtail boat to take you to where the russet-brown Mekong and bluer Mun meet to become the Mae Nam Song Si, the Two-Coloured River; or to the Kaeng Tana National Park rapids in the other direction, where you can hop across strange moon-like boulders. Good, riverside accommodation options include Pak Mool Guest House or the more upscale Toh Sang Khong Jiam Resort. Unless you’re really city adverse, Ubon Ratchatani (80km to the west) is also worth a stopover. Founded towards the end of the 18th century, after Laotians fled a massacre in Vientiane, today it has an urban veneer much like any other provincial capital. Scratch it away, though, and you’ll find much evidence of the region’s LaoThai-Cambodian heritage – especially bangkok 101

in the temple architecture. Plus, there’s the Ubon Ratchathani National Museum, where everything from handiwork by today’s artisans to stone tools used by yesteryear’s caveman is presented in timeline form. Go during this month’s Songkran, the Thai New Year celebrations, and aside from the incessant water-flinging you’ll also find a temple fair beside the city’s Thung Si Mueang Park. Brimming with garish fairground rides, food stalls, luk thung singing contests and teen revellers hell-bent on winning a cuddly toy, this promises the one thing you probably haven’t encountered yet: the sanuk (fun), slightly kitsch side of modern Ubon culture. Heading back to Thailand’s big smoke is a cinch these days (see Getting There); but with great food, genuinely friendly people, and no hint of the dollar-seeking smiles that plague the Thai tourist citadels, why not take the slow road? Car-rental firm Avis Thailand, among others, can supply the wheels for your once-in-a-lifetime Isaan roadtrip. sightseeing

Stay Pak Mool Guest House Pukhumchai Road, Khong Jiam | 045-351-052 Toh Sang Khong Jiam Resort 68, Moo 7 Huay Mak Tay, Khlong Jiam | 045-351-174 | www.tohsang.com Khong Jiam

Sightseeing

over the border

W Chengdu

sightseeing

elcome to panda country. Seriously, Chengdu is the place to go if you want to observe these rare, bamboomunching mammals. Not that there isn’t anything else to do in Chengdu – like, hellooo! Sichuan food, anyone? – but, as with orangutans in Sumatra and ladyboys in Bangkok, you’ve got to see these guys. And being only three hours from Bangkok with Thai Air it’s a perfectly doable mini-break. Apparently, four fifths of China’s remaining wild pandas roam the forests of Sichuan and there are several nature reserves around Chengdu worth investigating. Just 11km north of town, the Chengdu Panda Base (www.panda. org.cn) is the easiest place to observe the famously frigid things, while the Wolong Nature Reserve, a few hours out of town in the Qionglai Mountains, is also incredible. With a population on the fruity side of 4 million, Chengdu is one of China’s biggest cities. It’s also the capital of Sichuan province, 1,200 miles-or-so southwest of Beijing, and sprang up some time during the Bronze Age. Today, the city is typical mix of old and new, with drab office blocks rubbing shoulders with quaint teahouses and rickety bicycles vying for space with gas-guzzling SUVs. bangkok 101

Shangri-La Hotel, Chengdu

A couple of religious sites in town – Wenshu Temple & Qingyang Temple – are worth your time, although most visitors prioritise taking the one hour trip out to the Giant Buddha at Leshan, which claims to be the biggest stone-carved likeness in the world. If shopping’s your thang, Chunxi Road is your spiritual home. It’s got everything. Twice. Or, for posher clobber, hail a meter taxi and head to Tianfu Square (where you can also stare at a ginormous Mao statue). Otherwise, grab a rickshaw, put on your comfiest shoes or rent a bicycle to explore the Old Town or Jin Li Ancient Street. Just follow your nose. And what better city to follow your nose, for this is the home of the hotpot! They like it spicy in Sichuan, real spicy, stuffed with enough peppers and chillies to make a som tam aficionado cry. Local-style hotpots are basically a big cauldron divided into two, with a different flavoured broth in each segment, which is then shared amongst a group. Lamb and fish are popular ingredients, but basically anything goes. Other dishes to look out for include spicy rabbit and “Bang Bang Chicken”. Now, obviously the main reason to eat Bang Bang Chicken is because it’s got an awesome name, but also because it’s light, crispy and milder than your average pepper-fest. If you’re looking to sample some real local spirit, Chengdu has the ultimate tipple. Baijiu is ubiquitous in China and comes in varying degrees of bangkok 101

quality. Chengdu has a glittering jewel with a 600-year history in Shui Jing Fang, a premium baijiu produced at what is reputedly the world’s oldest distillery, on Shui Jing Street, just behind the riverside Shangri-La (our fave local hotel). We were turned onto baijiu by celebrated Hanoi-based chef Bobby Chinn (see our 1-on-1 interview on p.12), who was recently here filming on Sichuan food for World Cafe Asia (on Discovery Travel & Living). Cheers Bobby (hic)!

STAY The Shangri-La on Binjiang Dong Road is one of the newest and swishest places to stay in town, and exploits its riverside location superbly with great views across Chengdu. Rooms from $130 represent good value and the hotel’s Irish pub is a good place to unwind after a day’s panda spotting. Alternately head to the Chi spa for an invigorating herbal steam.

Bobby Chinn at the Shui Jing Fang distillery.

sightseeing

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A

Number 1 Gallery

return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional absorption of all things American and European, many of Thailand’s freshfaced generation of artists are infatuated with the street-style, urban iconography of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, Korea and increasingly China. An indicator of the growing profile of Thai art could be in the proliferation of new commercial galleries that have opened in the last couple of years, with Bangkok gaining over a dozen new venues in different areas across the city. These include artist -run spaces such as printmaker and sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s hotbed of young conceptualists at Gallery VER. While Thailand’s ongoing political debacle has complicated ar tistic planning, the decade-plus wait for the new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opposite MBK shopping mall, is over. For news of its exhibitions, performances and the like log on to www.bacc.or.th

an increasing number of regional Asian artists displaying their works, at prices often cheaper than in countries like Singapore, China and Vietnam. Whether hoping to peruse some emerging local protagonist, or purchase something a bit more commercial or traditional, one thing’s for certain – prices for art in Bangkok are more realistic and reasonable than overinflated, fashionable ar t centres in America, Europe and increasingly China. You’ll soon realise that the city doesn’t have a concentrated artistic enclave; rather, there are small pockets of galleries, auction houses and antiques shops randomly dispersed throughout the city. Commercial galleries are spread across town and a little route planning is advised before embarking on a day of gallery musing. On the following page is a selection of noteworthy galleries about town.

GALLERIES The majority of contemporary art on view in Bangkok is produced by domestic practitioners, several of whom are now receiving significant international exposure, though there is

Steven Pettifor is the editor of the Bangkok Art Map (BAM!), and author of Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is available as a consultant to art buyers; stevenpettifor@hotmail.com

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bangkok 101

n 100 Tonson Gallery (map C3) 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-684-1527 | Thurs-Sat 11am-7pm | www.100tonsongallery.com

100 ต้นสนแกลลอรี่ ซ.ต้นสน ถ.เพลินจิต

n Ardel Gallery of Modern Art (map D4) 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromrachachonanee Rd (Km 10.5) | 02-422-2092 | Tue-Sat 10:30am – 7pm, Sun 10:30am – 5:30pm | www.ardelgallery.com

อาร์เดล ถ.บรมราชชนนี

n Art Gorillas (map C3) 260 Lido Bldg 2F Siam Square Soi3 | BTS Siam | 02-658-3975, 089-119-9596 | Tue-Sun noon-8pm

ลิโด สยามสแควร์ ซ.3

n Akko 919/1 Sukhumvit Rd (btw Soi 49 & 51) l Tel: 02259-1436 l Mon-Sat 10am-7pm | www.akkoart.com

อั๊กโกะ สุขุมวิท ระหว่าง ซ. 49/51

n Art Republic (map C3) Peninsula Plaza 3F, Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-652-1810 | Tue-Sat 11am – 7pm| www.artrepublicbkk.com

เพนนินซูล่า พลาซ่า ถ.ราชดำริ

n Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (map C3) Pathumwan Junction, Opposite MBK shopping mall | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630~1 | Tue-Sun 10am - 9pm

หอศิลป์วฒ ั นธรรมกรุงเทพฯ ตรงข้ามมาบุญครอง

n Bangkok University Art Gallery (map D4) Bangkok University Gallery Bldg, Kluaynam Thai campus | Rama IV Rd | 02-350-3626 | Tue-Sat 10am – 7pm

มหาวิทยาลัยกรุงเทพ กล้วยน้ำไท ถ.พระราม 4

n Chulalongkorn Art Center (map C3) Fl 7, Center of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, Phayathai Rd | BTS Siam | 02218-2965 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm

จุฬาลงกรณ์มหาวิทยาลัย ถ.พญาไท

n H Gallery (map B4) 201 Soi 12, Sathorn Rd | BTS Surasak | 08-1310-4428, 02-310-4428 | Thurs-Sat noon-6pm, Sun-Wed by appointment | www.hgallerybkk.com

เอช แกลลอรี่ 201 ซ.12 ถ.สาทร

bangkok 101

n Hof Art (map D1) 244-248 Soi Vibhavadi Rangsit 16/32 Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd | MRT Ratchadaphisek | 02-690-1347-8 | Tue-Sat 9am – 6:30pm | www.hofart.net

ฮอฟ อาร์ต วิภาวดีรังสิต ซ.16/32

n Jamjuree Gallery (map C3) Jamjuree Building 8, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Siam | 02-218-3709, 0-2218-3633~6 | Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat, Sun & Holidays noon-6pm

galleries หอศิลป์สมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิรกิ ติ ฯ์ ถ.ราชดำเนิน

n Rotunda Gallery (map C4) Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-233-1731 | Tue-Sun 9:30am5pm | www.neilsonhayslibrary.com

โรทันดา แกลลอรี่ ห้องสมุดนิลเซน เฮส์ ถ.สุรวงศ์

จุฬาลงกรณ์มหาวิทยาลัย ถ.พญาไท

n Silom Galleria Art Space (map C4) Unit B24-25, B1 Floor | 02-630-3381 | daily 10am – 9pm

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน 6 ถ.พระราม 1

n Silpakorn University Gallery (map A3) 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (op. Grand Palace) | 02-623-6120, ext 1418 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm | www.su.ac.th

คัดมันดู โฟโต้ แกลลอรี่ ซ.วัดแขก สีลม

n Surapon Gallery (map C4) Fl 1, Tisco Tower, 48/3 N. Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-638-0033 | Tue-Sat 11am-6pm

ละลานตาไฟน์อาร์ท สุขุมวิท ซ.31

n National Gallery (map A3) 4 Chao Fah Rd | 02-281-2224 | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm

พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติ 4 ถ.เจ้าฟ้า

n Number 1 Gallery (map B3~4) Room # B15 Silom Galleria, 919 Silom Rd BTS Surasak | 08-6524-6152 | www.number1gallery.com | Mon-Sat 10am-7pm

อาคารสีลมแกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

n Numthong Gallery (map C2) 1129/29,31 Co-Op Housing Building | Toeddamri Rd, Dusit | BTS Ari | 02-243-4326 | Mon-Sat 11am-6pm

นำทอง แกลลอรี่ ถ.เทอดดำริ ดุสิต

n The Queen’s Gallery (map A3) 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd | 02-281-5360 | Thur-Tue 10am-7pm | www.queengallery.org

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สีลม แกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

มหาวิทยาลัยศิลปากร ถ.หน้าพระลาน

สุรพล แกลลอรี่ อาคารทิสโก้ ถ.สาทร

n Tang Contemporary Art (map B4) Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-630-1114 | daily 10am – 7pm (except on Wed and public holiday) | www.tangcontemporary.com

ถัง คอนเทมโพรารี อาร์ท สีลมแกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

n Thavibu Gallery (map B4) Suite 308, Fl 3, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak| 02-266-5454 | Tue-Sat 11am7pm, Sun noon-6pm | www.thavibu.com

ทวิบู แกลลอรี่ สีลม แกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

n Gallery Ver (map A3) Fl 2, 71/31-35 Klongsarn Plaza, Charoen Nakorn Rd, Thonburi | 02-861-0933 | TueSat 10am – 7pm | www.verver.info

แกลลอรี่ เว่อร์ คลองสาน พลาซ่า ถ.เจริญนคร

n Whitespace (map C2) Fl 2, 260 Lido Bldg, Siam Square Soi 3 | BTS Siam | 02-252-2900 | Tue-Fri 1pm – 7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am – 8pm | www.whitespaceasia.com

ไวท์สเปซ ลิโด สยามสแควร์ ซ.3

Songkran T hailand comes alive in April as the nation downs tools and takes to the streets to celebrate Songkran, the solar New Year. The festival, which was once a gentle, cerebral occasion, has evolved over the years with whole neighborhoods being taken over by revellers hurling buckets of water at each other and partying as hard as they possibly can. It’s fun and frantic and an experience you’ll never to forget – especially if a random stranger approaches you, smiles serenely, then tips a bucket of ice-cubes down your undercrackers. This year, the official three-day national holiday runs from Monday 13 to Wednesday 15 April, although you can expect many businesses to take the whole week off and the parties to start the preceding Friday night. In the upcountry provinces, it’s not unheard of for water throwing to begin as early as the start of April.

History and tradition

he festival has murky Indian/Burmese/Chinese origins but is commonly thought to have been initiated by the Tais (forebears of the Thais) who began migrating from southern China in the first millennium AD, and was a time to signify the start of a new year and the commencement of the annual farming cycle. Variations of the festivals are also celebrated in neighbouring Burma, Laos and Cambodia. Traditionally, jasmine-scented water is sprinkled over elders as a mark of respect and to symbolise cleansing for the year ahead, and people tie strings around each othersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; wrists which are then worn until they fall off. In addition, water is splashed over revered Buddha images and sand carried to temple grounds to replace dirt carried away on worshippersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; feet during the preceding year. The first day of Songkran (April 13) is regarded as the day to clean your house in anticipation of the festivities ahead, while the second day is a time to prepare food and take sand to the temple. On the third day of Songkran, the New Year officially begins and people visit the temple to offer alms to the monks.

Water wars

o a greater or lesser extent, these traditions remain. Although as Songkran falls during the hottest time of the year, the water splashing has taken on a new dimension with the purpose ostensibly to help cool people down in the harsh April sun. In reality, it’s just become a huge water fight, with huge crowds thronging the pavements armed with water pistols, and pick-up trucks with gallon drums on the back roaming the streets looking for victims. Passersby – including motorcyclists – are drenched mercilessly, although always with a huge grin. This really is party time and everyone is expected to join in, like it or not. The main places to head if you want to experience the mayhem are backpacker haven Khao San Rd (p.88) and the business/party district Silom (p.30). However, parties will be going on in all neighbourhoods and smaller gatherings can often be more fun.

Surviving Songkran

s it’s the year’s most important festival, Bangkok practically empties for Songkran with people returning to their hometowns to celebrate with their families. This can render the city almost unrecognisable, as the traffic jams all but disappear and the noise levels drop considerably. Remember, though, that the nation’s buses, trains and planes will be packed and you really shouldn’t plan to travel any distance over the festive period. Another reason to avoid the roads is the prevalence of drunk drivers. Every year, hundreds of people perish on the highways and year-on-year death tolls are studied in the newspapers like football results. The government is constantly coming up with new schemes to limit the amount of alcohol made available during the festival, but where there’s a will… The best advice is to stay put during the three day period (at least) and enter into the spirit of things. Grumps are not tolerated at Songkran! Dress to get wet (probably best to leave your Gucci shoes back at the hotel) and invest in a water pistol from a streetside stall. You should also be careful with cameras, wallets and mobile phones. If you absolutely have to take these things out with you, make sure they are properly sealed in Ziploc bags. And if you really want to avoid getting soaked, stay in your hotel, order room service and take comfort in the knowledge that the water throwing mostly stops at sundown.

Arts

performing arts Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai|BTS Victory Monument | 02-677-8888 ext 5678 | TueFri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular new 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, bear witness to hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are world-class.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com, www.bangkokconcerts.com Joe Louis

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eye-popping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

Traditional Thai Puppet Theater (Joe Louis) (map C4) Suan Lum Night Bazaar, 1875, Rama IV Rd | MRT Lumphini | 02-252-9683-4, 02-252-5227-9 ext 101 – 104 | 8pm – 9:15pm | adults B900, children B300 | www.thaipuppet.com A live puppet show might sound like it’s aimed at kids, but this one is intriguing for all.The one-hour show follows the story of the Ramakien. The large puppets are incredibly lifelike; the scenes are colourful and fun to watch – so even adults enjoy the show. Arrive early to observe the production of traditional masks.

โรงละครนาฏยศาลา หุ่นละครเล็ก (โจหลุยส์) สวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

สยามนิรมิต ถ. เทียมร่วมมิตร

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-224-1342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms.The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.35), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.32), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.85). 54

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bangkok 101

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres. These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on. Alliance Française (map C4) 29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am-6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3) 254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4) 18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-287-0942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

cultural centres

Japan Foundation (map D3) Serm-mit Tower, Fl 10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-2608560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ Bangkok Symphony Orchestra 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ The Belgian Club of Thailand (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com Goethe Institut

TCDC (Thailand Creative & Design Centre)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions.These are particularly good at opening your mind and eyes to curious international design concepts; be it Vivienne Westwood’s fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their WHERE 6F, The Emporium cultural uniqueness to create 20th century Shopping Complex, design classics; or a peek at the swish, stateSukhumvit 24 (map D4) of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare BTS Phrom Phong, 02-664books, a large selection of multimedia, even 8448, www.tcdc.co.th OPEN a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh10:30am-9pm closed Mon faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately incentre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track. Kiosk

bangkok 101

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24 ar ts

Arts

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, state-of-the-art movie theatres SF,Cent ralWorld showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido, screen less common independent and international films. Foreign films are mostly screened in their native languages with subtitles in Thai. For artsy fare, check out the regular screenings at culture centres like the Alliance Française, Goethe Institut and Japan Foundation – most movies are shown with English Please subtitles. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100stand quietly 180. The best place to check screening times is on the while the national daily-updated www.movieseer.com, which just about anthem is played every Bangkokian uses before going to the movies. in respect to Thailand’s king. Thai Cinema Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

These Screens are Gold

You enter the dimly lit room, chiffon drapes sway against the wall as the cool air flows against your skin. Settling into the velvet sofa, complimentary drinks are whisked in front of you. Soon you are led to a separate area. Dark and hard to navigate, you are guided to your seat in this chilly chamber. Reclining back, a blanket is pulled over your body, covering you up for whatever thrills that may ensue. By now it’s more than obvious where you’ve been lured..... To the movies of course!! In Thailand you can fly in cinematic first class, which is possible for roughly the same price as your old neighbourhood theatre back home. All of the above, including seat-side waiter service, is available for around B300, although Paragon charges at least double.

APEX Lido, Siam and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02-251-2861, Siam 02-251-3580 โรงภาพยนต์ลโิ ด สยาม และสกาลา

สยามสแควร์ ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Grand (Gold Class) Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-812-9999 สยามดิสคัฟเวอร์รเ่ี ซ็นเตอร์

ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Metropolis (Gold Class) Big-C Ratchadamri (opp. Central World Plaza), Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chitlom | 02-812-9999 บิก ๊ ซี ราชดำริ ตรงข้ามเซ็นทรัล

เวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-9333 เอ็มโพเรียม สุขม ุ วิท 24 SF WORLD CINEMA 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-268-8888 เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ Paragon Cineplex

Where’s the gold?

ar ts

bangkok 101

reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent book shops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used. Burma Chronicles Guy Delise | Drawn & Quarterly | 263pp Merely owning an unlicensed fax machine can land you in jail in Burma, so it’s little wonder few outsiders are in touch with day-to-day life there. There are the NGO reports: those joyless cataloguings of political and ethnic repression, negligible health care and Orwellian state control. But little of the everyday gets through.And your only other option is going there – something many Burma watchers will gleefully tell you still isn’t conscionable. However all is not lost: this engrossing, dry-witted comic book by Guy Delise – a French illustrator who spent a year living in Rangoon with his aid-worker wife – is rich with local colour, despite its minimal grey tones. Delise’s culture shock as he wheels his child’s pram around the city in house-husband guise forms a large part. But for every Burma for Dummies or cute-baby vignette, there is another that takes you closer to the country’s quirks, characters and realities.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong or CD Warehouse outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English subtitles and DVD region compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

Hot Spots to Shop: BANGKOK Wendy D. Johnson | Silkworm Books | 208pp | B295 Bangkok’s a shopping paradise, right? Well, yes and no. If you know what you want, where to get it and how much you should be paying, the city is a cinch. But, and this is where HSTS: Bangkok comes in, if you are armed only with the vague notion of Bangers being a great place for retail therapy you could be in for a rude awakening. This pocket-sized guide offers the belt and braces approach, informing the reader about gem store frauds, taxi protocol and bargaining techniques as well as providing nearly 150 pages of exhaustive listings. It even gives you advice on the kind of shoes to bring with you. In amongst all the tips and recommendations are easy-to-use maps, suggested shopping itineraries and handy overviews. Probably of limited interest to all but the most ardent shopaholics, this is nevertheless a useful guide to splurging in the capital.

How to Purchase Real Estate Rene Philippe R. Dubout | 294pp | RPeBook | B850 It’s the most stressful thing you’ll ever do. Now try buying property in Thailand, where you don’t speak the language, developers disappear overnight, and foreigners can’t actually own land. Nervous? Don’t be.Yes, many come a cropper here, but heed the written word of property laywer Rene Phillipe and you probably won’t be one of them. Avoid firsttime developers – Don’t re-mortgage your suburban home to buy that villa on Koh Samui – Consider all possible consequences before exploiting that loophole. These are just some of the nuggets of sage advice and calls for self-reflection you’re wife probably already gave you, but you needed to read in a book by a professional with years in the business. The second half, where Phillipe tackles Thai property law, is mostly legalese; but then you’re not here for light reading, right?

Tongpan Surachai Chantimatorn, Mike Morrow, et al. | 1977 | B100 | Chulalongkorn bookstore (cubook@chula.a.th) This 60-minute B&W feature depicts with powerful simplicity one episode in Thailand’s early-1970s experiment with democracy. After a landmark student protest on October 14, 1973, succeeded in ousting the country’s military dictatorship, Thailand saw a rapid flowering of public participation in its national politics. Based on a true incident that took place during those heady days, Tongpan follows the life of the farmer Tongpan, invited by students to attend a seminar on regional development. Seminar scenes, where Tongpan struggles to articulate how development schemes may have actually worsened his life, are juxtaposed against depictions of his battle with poverty, a sense of powerlessness, and family illness. A harshly moving view of class disparity and failed ideals, the film is heartily propagandistic but extremely effective – so much so that the film was banned after the student massacres of October 6, 1976, when the military crushed Thailand’s nascent democracy just three years after it began. ar ts

Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby. The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community.

Basil, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms! Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.77 ). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anything-once daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

$ under B400 The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, $$ B400 – B1,000 not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer $$$$ over B2,000 set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means a service charge (typically 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 58

food & drinks

bangkok 101

Drinking Tea Eating Rice, The Conrad

meal deals RedSky, Centara Grand

If you’re quick you can still catch chef Ricky Kamiishi at The Conrad’s excellent Japanese eatery.The special Spring Kaiseki menu (B3,500++, until 5 April), put together by KL-based Ricky-san, features a splendidly diverse lineup, with rich and buttery wagyu sirloin rubbing shoulders with grilled sakura trout, excellent sashimi and perfectly crisp tempura. Call 02690-9999 for lunch and dinner reservations.

If you’ve been to RedSky – the pricey rooftop restaurant du jour – you’ll know this wine & tapas buffet is a good deal. B955++ buys you three hours (Mon-Fri 5-8pm) with four free-flowing white & red wines, plus a tapas buffet featuring Parma ham, brescaola, chorizo, smoked bacon and cheeses. Even in this town, you won’t find better company for that price. Reservations: 02-100-6255.

Café 11, Grand President

Masala Art

Come savour BBQ grill and tandoori delights at the recently spruced up Café 11 Grill on Sukhumvit Soi 11.The artery-clogging menu includes New Zealand lamb chops, T-bone steaks, pork spare ribs, char-grilled river prawns, tandoori kukkad, freshly baked naan and more. Prices start at just B160++. Reservations: 02-651-1200 ext 7.

KHAO CHAE

If the waters of Songkran aren’t beating the heat, partake of another hot-weather tradition in Thailand – khao chae: a dish of rice (khao) soaked (chae) in cold flower-scented water. This chilled porridge, thought to have originated in the court of King Rama II, is accompanied by a variety of side dishes and condiments. These include shrimp paste balls (luuk kapi), chilli peppers stuffed with minced pork (phrik yuak), deep-fried shallots stuffed with fish (hawn thawt), Chinese radish fried with egg (hau chai poe) and beef fried with palm sugar (nuea phat waan). Ariyasomvilla

bangkok 101

It’s flash. All the spice grinding’s done in-house. They take great pride in wheeling out the city’s only flambé lentil trolley. And, to top it all off, from April 1-15, they’re offering unlimited kebabs, beers and breads for B550++. Only open two months, this chic new curry-house near Thong Lo Soi 8 is well worth scoping out. Call 02-713-8357.

Khao chae is a great way to cool off and a “must-eat” during the hot months. Here are a few hotels where you’ll be able to sample it: n The Brasserie @ Celadon Holiday Inn Silom is offering 50% off its Songkran buffet (which includes khao chae) from April 13-15. B300++ lunch, B350++ dinner. Reservations: 02238-4300 n Celadon @ The Sukhothai Throughout April, B750++ per set. Reservations: 02-344-8888 ext 5720 n Na Aroon @ Ariyasomvilla Sets for B210/B250 all month. Reservations: www.ariyasom.com, 02-254-8800 n Saffron @ The Banyan Tree Sets for B700++ throughout April. Reservations: 02-679-1200 n Sala Rim Naam @ Mandarin Oriental Thai celebrity chef Vichit Makura offers sets all month. Reservations: 02-659-9000 n Thara Thong @ Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Sets available April 10-16 for B450++. Reservations: 02-266-9214

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

thai cuisine

Did you know?

Khao Niao-Kai Yang (Barbecued Chicken-Steamed Sticky Rice)

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desser ts or savoury mousses social affair in Thailand. are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared. 60

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom kha gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam nua.......spicy beef salad Gai yang..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng phet pet yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng khiao wan gai.....green curry chicken Phad kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sacred basil Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao.......................coconut juice Nam krajeab .............rosella flower juice Nam matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam tao hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha yen............................Thai iced tea with condensed milk bangkok 101

thai sweets Kanom Thai

‘Polamai’: Thai Fruits

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

Rose Apple (Chompu)

This fruit, known as the rose or wax apple in English, can easily be mistaken for a pear at first glance due to its similar shape. The skin however is noticeably waxy, and its colour ranges from pink to almost black, with the light green variety being the most commonly found in Thailand, with those from Phetchaburi and Chantaburi provinces being the most famous. The flesh is crunchy though not as firm as a regular apple and has a sweet, sharp flavour, and as with many other local fruits it is very often consumed with a spiced sugar dip. The fruit is a great source for fiber and vitamin C, and is believed to help alleviate fevers and pains, while its seeds have also been known to be effective in treating various ailments including diabetes and diarrhea.

The word Kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a Kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This!

Khao chae With the blazing summer sun about to come full blast, it’s the perfect time to sample this refreshing treat, which literally translates as “soaked rice”. Originally concocted by the Mon people as a sacrifice to the gods, it’s made by pouring rice into jasmine water and ice and is served with various condiments including sweet fish, fried shrimp paste, and boiled vegetables. Try also: Kanom krok – mini coconut cream hotcakes Thong yip/thong yod/foi thong – Golden egg pinches (Yip)/drops (Yod)/ shreds (Foi) Saffron,The Banyan Tree

Try also:

Coconut (Ma-Praow), Guava (Farang), Banana (Kluay), Papaya (Malakor), Mangosteen (Mong-Koot), Durian (Tu-Rian), Mango (Ma Muang), Rambutan (Ngoh), Lychee (Lyn-Chee) bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath the Thong Lo BTS station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to Bangkok’s revellers. Sample the delicate, handmade egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near the Patpong Night Market. In front of the Wall Street Building; be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am.

RICE IN LOTUS LEAF

Pratunam Midnight Chicken Rice! There are two shops at the intersection; the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark. There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door.

ealikte

ood is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. The city is famed for its scrumptious street food. Bangkokians eat out day and night, and locals know exactly what to get and where. On every street you’ll spot mobile vendors; some open for lunch only, others open all night. You’ll often find clusters of vendors in one place, selling all kinds of rice and noodle dishes. You can always eat out in restaurants, but don’t miss some of the wonderful street specialities.

Food Courts

Nearly all Bangkok department stores and malls dedicate ample space to food courts, culinary havens where you’ll find all the best local street food and more in air-conditioned surroundings. They are super-clean cheap, and many stands display pictures of the dishes – food courts make for the perfect initiation to Thai street food. Pick and choose – it will be tallied up as you go; you pay as you leave. Among our faves, try Central Chidlom, CentralWorld, Siam Paragon, Emporium and MBK (see p. 102).

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

When I need to kill time around Khao San Road, I tend to go for one of a few favourite activities. I’ll either grab a facial treatment, shop for beachwear, or go to feast on khao hor bai bau (rice in lotus leaf) at Hemlock on Phra Athit Road. This cosy, Mediterranean-looking restaurant was among the very first to open in this charming part of the Old Town. I love it here, not only because the owner’s joy for life means they uphold superlative standards of atmosphere, music, drink and food; but also because the menu is remarkable, featuring personal touches in all the dishes. I like all the different kinds of yam (spicy Thai salad) that I don’t usually find elsewhere, as well as the many curry dishes not seen since my childhood days.There are also lots of toothsome surprises. One of these is the aforementioned khao hor bai bau, the ancient Thai-Chinese specialty. This impressive dish is a combination of fried rice, cooked together with healthy ingredients like mushrooms, lotus seeds, taro, shrimp, chicken or pork, then wrapped in an organic lotus leaf before steaming. Its secret? The aroma from the lotus leaf seeps into the rice, as they are wrapped while the rice is still hot. Cutting open the leaf reveals a perfume scent – part perfectly fried rice, part steamy leaf – that is well worth schlepping across town for. Note that while it’s a very low-key, laid-back place, calling for a reservation might be a good idea since it fills up fast with bohemian Thai sorts: artists, professors, reporters and food lovers. Arts exhibitions often show here too.

Nym

n Location: Phra Athit Rd, opposite the Phra Athit river ferry pier. Open Mon-Fri, 3pm-midnight, Sat from 5pm-midnight. For reservations call 02-282-7507. 62

food & drinks

bangkok 101

restaurants

THAI Taling Pling (map B4) 60 Pan Road, Silom | BTS Surasak | 02236-4830 | 11am – 10pm | $ Here’s the place for a memorable Thai meal that’s neither chi-chi nor curbside. The modestly elegant interior is part of its enduring, 23-year appeal among just about everybody – low-ceilings, silkbacked chairs, vibrant walls hung with old Bangkok photographs. However, not until the thick, orange menu thuds onto your table do Taling Pling’s true talents become clear: pure-bred Thai food at sane prices. If there is a more approachable and photogenic menu in town, we haven’t seen it. And the dishes themselves rarely disappoint. A must-try: the meang taling pling, a plate of rustic chicken paste, garlic, peanuts, chilies, and pieces of the sour namesake fruit that you wrap in betel leafs. And do order the grilled pork yum – its sharp and tangy nam yum (dressing) is spoton.That usual suspect, beef green curry, is also praiseworthy. In its herbilicious depths lurk hunks of chewy beef and whole birds eye chillies – proof that a stylish Thai meal doesn’t always mean betraying your spice-thrillseeker ideals.

ตะลิงปลิง ถ.ปั้น

Tai Thai

bangkok 101

Taling Pling

WANAKARM (map D3) 98 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 02-258-4241 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 6pmmidnight | $ A little piece of Thai culinary history, Wanakarm is set in a sprawling house that may trigger flashbacks to earlier, homier times. Seated behind a gracious garden area, the house is full of unpretentious, clunky wooden tables, a lumpy sofa or two in the private rooms – and food that tastes like it’s made by Mum. Whoever is at the deep-fryer deserves a standing ovation – everything crunchy and calorie-laden, from filler-free shrimp cakes to explosively crackly Vietnamese spring rolls, is beautifully done. Curries are thick with fragrant, long-stewed herbs, and flaky-tender roti make the perfect accompaniment. The fried chicken is juicy from its marinade, and the skin will have diners scrapping over the crunchy bits. Those looking for an elegant setting should head elsewhere, but if you’re up for excellent Thai food in enormous portions look no further than Wanakarm.

วนคาม สุขุมวิท ซ.23

food & drinks

TAI THAI (map C3) 100 Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-252-5131 | 6pmmidnight | $$ Part of a local watering hole for young’n’fancy hi-so Thais, Tai Thai boasts soaring ceilings, and enormous banquettes and picture-glass windows for maximum canoodle-with-a-view potential. Food is prettily plated up as well, and shows more care than in most see-and-be-seen restaurants. Soft-shell crab stir-fried with curry powder is served in generous portions and has a savoury smoothness with no grit. Thai-style grilled sirloin with sticky rice and green-papaya salad is tender and cooked as you like it. Lamb massaman curry is impressively dark with flavour. The bar produces interesting drinks (think fruit-laced cocktails), and while dessert is only available from the sister Italian restaurant next door – drop those dreams of mango and sticky rice – the sweet offerings are quite good, sophisticated rather than too sweet.

ไทไทย ถ.ราชดำริ

Food&Drinks

Isaan Eats

Café Ice

INTERNATIONAL Café Ice (map C4) 44/2 Pipat Soi 2 | 02-636-7373 | BTS Chong Nonsi | Mon-Sat 11am – 11pm | $$$ Wong Kar Wai would love this galleria restaurant just off Sathorn Road. Hell, he could even film one of his ultra-cool art-house movies here. It’s a sprawling three-storey shophouse where bohemian sorts dine beside hordes of for-sale modern art, sculpture and antiques, and crackling gramophone jazz lends an air of 1930s Shanghai. Find your spot in the nook-filled interiors (ours: the beguiling 2nd floor with its wall-mounted bronze Buddha hands); or step onto the sultry terrace to sip wine amid the chorus of evening cicadas. Does the European/Thai food pale in comparison to the atmospherics? In a word, no. Portions are huge, flavour’s forceful. The soft shell crab salad olivier includes a lush, parmesan-dusted mountain of organic veg and a boat of pleasingly piquant balsamic. And, though B350 is exorbitant for a pad thai, it does star huge Andaman prawns and a tasty tamarind sweetness to great effect. Yes, you are paying a premium for the setting – but, then, rarely is it a film-set in the making.

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Isaan food – Northeast Thailand’s unadulterated cuisine – is everywhere. Bangkok’s streets teem with rot khen (vendor carts) and no-frills restaurants serving comfort foods to the city’s huge Isaan migrant population: dishes like laab (ground-meat salad), gai yang (grilled chicken) and som tum (green papaya salad). Not that they’re the only fans. Though many draw the line at nibbling insects, every strata of Bangkok society – from homesick taxi drivers through to their Prada-clad passengers – has its enthusiasts. Indeed, many rank this sweat-raising blend of Lao and Thai cooking (which serves sticky rice with fresh vegetables, chillis, herbs and whatever creature’s within grasp) as just about the best Thai culinary creation going. Almost every sidewalk has a lip-smacking Isaan kitchen (here gastro-gems spring from the humblest setups). But a meal at one of the following will have you vowing that your days of tart-sweet Thai food are over. n Café de Laos 19 Silom Soi 19 | 02-635-2338 | 11am-2pm & 5-10pm | $$ Who said you have to forgo ambience? At Café de Laos you get posh looks and rustic Issan nosh. You’ll pay more than you would streetside, though. n Isaan Rot Det 3/5-6 Soi Rang Nam | 02-246-4579 | BTS Victory Monument | $ The best northeastern fare on Rang Nam (a soi renowned for it)

Café de Laos

food & drinks

is served at this no-frills shophouse. Explosive som tum, crisp vegetables and lots of spice-flushed local faces. n Kumpoon 7F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Road | BTS Chid lom | 02-646-1044 | $ Zingy Isaan delights meet airconditioned mall. Perfect for when a sweaty you won’t do. n Soi Polo Fried Chicken 137/1-2 Soi Polo,Withayu Rd | 02-655-8489 Golden-brown, succulent and blanketed in crispy-garlic, its gai tord (fried chicken) is legendary. Very busy at lunchtimes. n Vientiane Kitchen 8 Naphasap Yak 1, Sukhumvit Soi 36 | 02-258-6171 | BTS Thonglo | $$ Sat beneath traditional thatched-roofs, guests dine on classics as well as daredevil dishes like boiled ants’ eggs spicy salad. Includes lively Laotian music. bangkok 101

featured

restaurant

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | 7:30pm-11pm | $$$ Bed is one of two mega-nightclubs in town that keeps pulling in fashionable crowds. Some of them are so “beddicted” partying here alone doesn’t provide the necessary fix. But like a generous pusher, Bed gives them what they need, and lets them in early. There they lounge, in the all-white framing on snug sofas, compiling their three-course-menu, checking out the competition streaming in. True fanatics know which sofas offer the best vista. Luckily, some of them care about the food – which is somehow always an imaginative feast, all fresh, fusion and tantalizing. Mondays are perfect for romantics – as part of a serious getgreen drive, most lighting is achieved via candlelight. Come 11pm, many in the flock move to the club side. One hurdle you must pass before entering Bangkok’s adult playground: the tight security check at Bed’s door will have you think you’re entering a war zone. Even if you’re coming for dinner only, don’t forget to bring a photo ID.

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The Oyster Bar For over two decades, Marinelli Shellfish has been exporting the finest catches from the sea to the world. After working his magic behind the scenes for years, Bill Marinelli has opened The Oyster Bar, his first fullyowned restaurant in Asia, which has already begun to convert novices into lovers. You can still taste the ocean in their famous oysters, which are shucked right in front of you by staff who are more than happy to guide virgins along. If you seriously aren’t up WHERE 395 Narathiwat Soi for sampling them raw, try the delicate 24, 02-212-4809 BTS Chong sake poached oysters with hijiki butter. Nonsi (10 minutes by taxi) The food on offer evolves on a regular Open Tue-Sat 6-10pm; Sun basis depending on what’s fresh, and 2-10pm chef Brad Bouchardt encourages you to order off menu. Permanent fixtures include the creamy shrimp bisque, clams casino, and a seafood platter for two that includes a selection of fresh oysters, clams, prawns, king crab and much more. To wash that down, this is probably the only place in town to offer wine by the half-glass, meaning you can have champagne for B70! On Sundays, there’s also an all-you-can-eat seafood deal for B1,500 per person with free-flowing mimosas. Bed Supperclub

bangkok 101

ดิ ออยสเตอร์ บาร์ นราธิวาสราชนครินทร์ ซ.24 food & drinks

Food&Drinks Extra Virgin Bistro

Extra Virgin Bistro (map E4) 63 Sukhumvit Soi 53 | BTS Thong lo | Tue-Sun 5pm-1am | 02-259-7898 | $-$$ Located towards the end of Sukhumvit 53, this restaurant joins the soi’s expanding list of buzzing restaurants. Extra Virgin Bistro’s clientele leans heavily towards the chi-chi foo-foo, sexy and well-to-do Thai crowd, though the atmosphere at this converted American-style country home is very laid back and cosy, whether you’re dining on one of the sofas inside or lounging on the patio out front. The menu is decked out with contemporary European and Thai dishes, like salmon-wrapped rocket with spicy Thai dressing and spaghetti with Northern style sausage.

Though fusion might as well be a four letter word these days, the interracial marriage of flavour works, though the pure-bred dishes like the grilled pork with sweetened sticky rice are just as superb. The Thai influence doesn’t disappear at dessert either, with indulgent treats like cha-yen pudding, and baby coconut milk cake.

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swath of the Chao Phraya, the Khmerinflected prangs of Wat Arun… just try to look away. Make sure to reserve in advance to guarantee a coveted second-floor outdoor seat at this elegant little restaurant, attached to boutique hotel Arun Residence. The ambitious menu embraces French, touches of other Continental cuisines, traditional and nouveau Thai – good for palates foreign and Thai alike. Grilled mushrooms have a meaty texture and savor. Prepared with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, the simple ingredients sing. A trickier dish, saffron risotto with grilled prawns, is wonderfully done. The rich, welltextured morsels offset the perfectly grilled seafood. Their chocolate fondant guarantees a sweet end to the end, turning the gooey-center chocolate cliché into lush luxury.

เดอะ เด็กค์ อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช ท่าเตียน

The deck

The Deck (map A3) Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 02-221-9158 | 11am-10pm | www.arunresidence.com/dining.htm | $$ The jaw-dropping view at The Deck steals the show – the great brown

food & drinks

bangkok 101

featured

restaurant

Na Aroon It’s meant to be only mad dogs and Englishmen that go out in the midday sun. But this blistering April you can add vegetarians to the list – they won’t be able to resist once they get wind of the wonderful Summer Menu now being served at Na Aroon, the city’s newest – and most evocative – vegetarian restaurant. Truth be told, though, it’s not only avowed veggies who are braving the lunchtime heat to dine here. During our visit the soft-pink interior, which dates back to 1942, and is the standalone restaurant at the resplendent Ariyasomvilla Hotel, was humming with guests, trysting couples, and Merc-driving hi-socialites, all clearly chuffed to be here. Helping keep meat-eater dissent at bay is the lovingly-preserved 20th century interior – the place is a family heirloom, festooned with original ceiling fans, wood fixtures and chandeliers – and the hotel’s verdant tropical garden, visible from all angles, through tall, elegant teak shutters. However, it helps that the food is also fantastic. Owner David Lees says his mandate is fresh, affordable, often seasonal, always tasty veggie fare – Thai and international – in unstuffy surrounds. That’s not quite Where 65 Sukhumvit Soi the whole story 1, Sukhumvit Road, 02-254– it’s also bold, 8880, www.ariyasom.com participatory, vibrant and filling. BTS Ploenchit Open 6am Seriously, by the time we’d munched – 10pm Price $ a plateful of tofu-stuffed spring rolls, sprinkled condiments (raw ginger, garlic, chilli and pineapple) all over our kanom jeen (fermented rice noodles), and demolished the pad thai malakor (an ingenious dish using papaya in place of noodles), we – die-hard carnivores – were talking dietary conversion. Looking to keep cool? Try the dazzlingly colourful khao chae set (B250), a summer delicacy featuring a tray of elaborate vegetable sides that you eat with chilled jasmine rice. Or, for dessert, the mayong chit, a seasonal Thai fruit that looks – and tastes – like a cross between a mandarin and apricot and comes served in iced syrup.

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bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

chic bangkok Cheryl Tseng

Pier 59 Blue acrylic dining chairs, bubbling tubes and dim lights create an ultra-cool underwater ambiance at Pier 59.With an arresting Bangkok skyline view, the sleek décor provides a calm contrast to the bustling street scene below. Diners ascend 59 stories to experience cross-cultural cuisine that crafts delicate seafood with Best for Seafood finesse. Chef entices diners where Banyan Tree Hotel, with dishes like sweet shrimp 21/100 South Sathon Road, 02tartar; seared foie gras with 679-1200, www.banyantree.com scallop, glazed smoked eel and BTS Chong Nonsi open 6pm beetroot dressing; broiled bean - 1am price $$$$ paste marinated salmon with Japanese cucumber, ginger stalk and wasabi cream; broiled lobster with black truffle, double-baked potato and Champagne cream. The ingredients are fresh and imported, the service impeccable. Its signature cocktail the Aqua 59 – a mixture of white rum, blue Curaçao, pineapple and lime juice –– is as lusciously hued as the room.The green tea ice cream with strawberry, Japanese plum wine, pancake and red bean paste is a wonderful dessert. A private room is set aside for pure cigar and champagne indulgence.

Chic Restaurants & Bars Bangkok is a compact food and style lover’s bible showcasing Bangkok’s most fabulous venues for dining and drinking. Global gourmand Cheryl Tseng leads you to the capital’s finest food, and its most striking décor. Each month we take a sneak peek inside, and share a taste here. A definite must-have for travelling foodies, get yourself a copy of the new 3rd edition at local book shops, or visit www.chicasia.com.

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bangkok 101

ITALIAN BELLA NAPOLI (map D4) 3/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-0405 | MonFri 11:30am – 2pm & 5:30pm – 11:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am – 11:30pm | $ Forget about flair for a sec. Think of that perfect Naples-style pizza and its crispy thin crust. Now grab a cab or hoof it just a few minutes walk from BTS Phrom Phong to Bella Napoli.This quaint and casual, long standing eatery is packed out nightly with a fun crowd, but ask a local foodie and he’ll point out the Italian five-star chefs working in Bangkok – and they’re all devouring those pizzas. If you haven’t made reservations you might be forced to wait outside, but it’s well worth it for the pizzas! Try anything you feel like; from the simple, spicy Pizza Diavolo to the Penna Lungha with its Parma ham tree, these are – for most Bangkokians, anyway – among the best pies in town. The meaty mains, pastas and the

imaginative antipasti buffet are worth a try, but we come here for one thing only.

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6th Fratello (map E4) 40/25 Ekamai Soi 12 | BTS Ekamai | 02-391-9946 | Tue-Sun 11:00am2:30pm & 5:30-10pm | $$ Resembling a backstreet in suburban Tokyo, 6th Fratello is located in a quiet residential area off Ekamai’s contrasting Sukhumvit Soi 63. Cosy and minimalist is an understatement, as an all white interior, handful of tables and trendy jazz music create an atmosphere perfect for a chilled-out date or familial dinner. Chef and owner Oat Sooprapipat, or Fratello (“brother” in Italian) number six, creates no-fuss dishes complemented by a suitable selection of French, Italian, Chilean and Australian wines. For those with a soft spot for garlic and olive oil, ordering the angel hair pasta with spicy garlic prawns and seared Alaskan scallops

with garlic butter sauce is a must. As for your sweet tooth, the oozing, warm chocolate cake is accompanied by a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream.

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6th Fratello

River Dining Cruises A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental).Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance Manohra shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last 2-3 hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. ■ CHAO PHRAYA CRUISE 02-541-5599 | www.chaophrayacruise.com ■ GRAND PEARL CRUISE 02-861-0255 | www.grandpearlcruise.com ■ HORIZON CRUISE The Shangri-La | 02-266-8165-6 | www.shangri-la.com ■ LOY NAVA 02-437-4932 | www.loynava.com ■ MAEYANANG The Oriental Hotel | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com ■ MANOHRA CRUISES 02-477-0770 | www.manohracruises.com ■ WAN FAH 02-222-8679 | www.wanfah.com ■ YOK YOR 02-863-0565 | www.yokyor.co.th

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Philippe

FRENCH Philippe (map D4) 20/15 Sukhumvit Soi 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-4577-8 | www.philipperestaurant.com | Mon-Sat 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 6pm – 10pm | $$$ Tucked away on a side street near the Phrom Phong BTS station, Philippe Restaurant provides a welcome dose of French charm to an area thronged with Japanese eateries. Since 1998, Philippe Peretti has been feeding the city’s happy Francophiles with defiantly unfusioned, fine traditional fare, including foie gras served in great silky lobes, hearty country stews with oxtail and beef tongue, and raspberry mille-feuille, layers of perfect pastry stacked with fruit and a gorgeous buttermilk crème. The décor may be a bit staid, but it doesn’t detract from the beauty of elegantly done French classics and the very correct service, which is attentive without being hovery. Come for the B450++ lunch deal (Mon-Sat), a three-course steal, perfect for a leisurely business lunch.

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INDIGO (map C4) 6 Convent Rd | Silom | BTS Sala Daeng | MRT Si Lom | 02-235-3268 | noon – 11pm | $$$ This perfect little piece of France has its special place in a lot of Bangkokians’ hearts, and not all of them native French speakers. Indigo has managed to stay a certain insider tip, but that’s also thanks to it hiding itself in a mini-soi off Convent Road (from Silom, walk down Convent; the lane is about 80m on the right). The only problem you face here is deciding whether to sit inside the lovingly restored, intimate Thai house or in the highly romantic cour tyard. Hardcore Francophiles join the guys sitting at the bar. Regulars love the wide selection of wines by glass, the friendly service and the culinary concoctions. The surprisingly large menu offers very traditional French dishes (a few are globally inflected, but the chef keeps them down-to-earth) - all of them yummy, most of them impeccable, and very reasonably priced. Book ahead Indigo is often full.

อินดิโก ซ.คอนแวนต์ ถ.สีลม food & drinks

MIDDLE EASTERN BEIRUT (map C3) B1, Ploenchit Centre, Sukhumvit Soi 2 BTS Phloen Chit | 02-656-7377 | 10am-10pm | $ Near Middle Eastern restaurant heavy Sukhumvit 3/1, Beirut provides more comfort, quiet and care in the kitchen than its tasty but shisha-smoky brethren. The mall atmosphere is not much to look at, but you’ll be too busy wolfing down lemon-fresh salads, creamy hummus and beautifully marinated chicken kebabs to notice. Beirut does excellent set menus of its small plates – come with a gang of friends and fight over every forkful. Fried eggplant is simple and fantastic, served up without a trace of oil and bitterness, and Beirut’s cauliflower got us – confirmed haters of the pasty-white vegetable – chasing every last morsel. Pita is not up to standard, but serviceable – more room in your stomach for the good stuff. Finish up with strong mint tea, perfume-y sweet custards and rice puddings. Friendly, unpretentious and perfect for that falafel fix.

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bangkok 101

UNIQUELY TASTY: Where Food meets Form Sirocco

It’s Happened to be a Closet

If you appreciate good food and masticating in memorable surroundings, here are our top tips for unforgettable dining experiences around town. A perennial favourite with style magazines, Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537) offers dining in the kind of surreal space-age pod George Jetson would approve of. Order artful 3 course meals from SunThurs off a limited menu for B1,450++; and on Fri or Sat enjoy a mystery 4 course meal for B,1850++. Then recline like a galactic emperor on divan fittings while sexy staff in tight spacesuits and angel wings serve you. Brought to you by the same trail- blazing team is ultrastylish Long Table (Column Building, Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-302-2557), the city’s most recent addition to the city’s designer dining stakes (they also do a pretty mean steak). As its name suggests, there’s a lengthy central bench, where you can rub up to models, celebrities and assorted other local A-listers, if you get a kick out of that sort of thing. Relish eating while high? Prepared to spend a tidy sum doing so? Then you’re right for Vertigo Grill (21/100 South Sathorn Road, 02-679-1200), alfresco rooftop restaurant at The Banyan Tree hotel. This sophisticated eatery, set in one of the most architecturally stunning buildings in Bangkok, specialises in top barbecued seafood. After dinner, sup a cocktail in The Moon Bar, the highest alfresco bar in the Asia Pacific. Or make like King Kong and scale the State Tower skyscraper in search of Sirocco (1055 Silom Road, 02624-9555), where sweeping city panoramas extend from atop the second tallest building in Bangkok. Expect quality live jazz, lots of pretty people, and an oyster bar within the prominent golden dome where you can also indulge in Iranian caviar and fine Cuban cigars. Heading back down-to-earth now, aim for the cutesy It’s Happened to be a Closet (32 Khao San Road, 02629-5271; or Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4696). An odd but successful fusion of closet-sized boho boutique with continental restaurant and bakery, shoppers at its two branches chow at a few dinky tables while surrounded by uber-cool trinkets, accessories and hawk-eyed fashionistas.

Grand Pearl

Food&Drinks Isaan Rot Det

INDIAN Indus (map D4) 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-258-4900 | www. indusbangkok.com | Wed-Mon 11am10:30pm | all cards | $ Indians make up a big portion of the expats in Bangkok, thus the scarcity of good Indian restaurants in the city may come as a surprise. Thankfully, we’ve had Indus for several years. It’s quite a cosmopolitan place with rich sub-continental adornments though we favour the outside seating in the large sloping garden, complete with an Indian Haveli and tables hidden by verdant flora. Equally hidden is the cool bar in the back, successfully blending New York extravagance and Moroccan panache, masculine leather sofas perfect for smoking that shisha. The menu focuses on exquisite Northern Indian cuisine (rich tikka massala, mutton curry, perfect dahl, and naan to die for) but also includes Thai food; the vegetarian selection is huge. The impressive interior may invoke steep prices, but most dishes hover around B120 each. This is lowcost luxury at its best. Take a cab from the BTS station.

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Isaan Rot Det (map C3) 3/5-6 Rangnam Road | 02-246-4579 | BTS Victory Monument | 10:30am – 10pm | $ Prejudice against shabby restaurants is madness in Bangkok – a city where the best food often hails from cartson-wheels. Proving our point is this stark Isaan (northeastern cuisine) restaurant with zilch-atmosphere but a lot going on in the taste department. Ask for the English menu or just point at what the locals nursing whisky sodas are gobbling. And don’t be surprised when a boat of crunchy herbs and veg arrives unannounced: munching these takes the edge off – and enhances – the kitchen’s darn fiery spicings. Every dish suggests this is one of the best Isaan spots in town; whether it’s the gai yang (grilled chicken), the herby tom saep nua dtunn beef soup, the shallot/ mint-leaf studded laab moo, or one of the many varieties of som tum (spicy papaya salad). Easy on the wallet, if not on the eye, Isaan Rot Det is the ideal place for Thai food daredevils bored with flavours tamed. An invigorating spice-high is guaranteed.

อีสานรสเด็ด ซ.รางน้ำ

Indus

IsAan/Lao

food & drinks

bangkok 101

Xuan Mai

AMERICAN Bourbon Street (map D4) 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi22,Washington Square | BTS Phrom Phong | www.bourbonstbkk.com | 02-2590328-9 | daily 7am-1am | $$ The neighbourhood around Bourbon Street seems to draw inspiration from the restaurant’s namesake – this 20year veteran of Bangkok’s restaurant scene is set amidst a sweaty, bawdy entertainment strip. Once you plough past the neighborhood’s neon glare, you will find a restaurant with a casual, big-hearted vibe – grab a seat at the giant old-school bar, or park yourself in a hefty chair, perfect a sprawl after you’ve overindulged. And overindulge you will, with American-sized portions of fantastic thick jumbo, zesty homemade sausages, and crawfish trucked in from the restaurant’s Kanchanaburi farm. Blackened fish, so often crusted in charred spices to hide its lack of freshness, is succulent here

and full of flavour. Save room for the Bananas Foster, lit up at the table – the gooey caramely result is glorious gluttony. Popular draws: free wi-fi, the late-night hours, and the fantastic oyster bar.

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Vietnamese Xuan Mai (map D3) 32 Sukhumvit Soi 13 | BTS Nana | 02251-8389 | Tue-Sun 11:30am-midnight | cash only | $ Looking for a little back story to go with your evening meal? Then wander over to Xuan Mai, an outstanding Vietnamese restaurant run by former beauty queen, refugee and (we're not making this up) FBI agent Meyung Robson. Her days hunting down bad guys may be behind her, but Meyung is still ahead of the game when it comes to sumptuous grub like chao tom (shrimp on sugarcane) and classic pho noodles. A homey ten-table affair,

Xuan Mai is usually packed with eager diners, and while the menu is trim and tidy, Meyung is happy to accommodate special requests. Things to look out for include the mouth-watering fish, which is cooked right at your table, and fantastically hot and crispy cha gio spring rolls. A delight.

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Flow

DINNER SHOWS

Why not kill two birds with one stone and stuff yourself with culture as well as food, by taking in a culturepromoting dinner show at one of these featured restaurants? Some Thai dancing is very slow, elaborate and mesmerising, while the more folksy stuff offers livelier rhythms. Alongside a good range of Thai dishes,The Oriental’s popular Sala Rim Nam (02-437-2918), on the river, offers a daily classical dance show performed by Bangkok’s Department of Fine Arts at 8.30pm (you can take the dedicated shuttle service from the Saphan Thaksin pier furthest to the left-hand side). Other, similarly beguiling affairs are also staged at The Chao Phraya Cultural Centre (02-258-5403) on the riverside close to Sathorn Bridge, and The Piman Theatre (02-258-7861) on Sukhumvit. Innovative performing arts company, The Patravadi Theatre (02-442-2020), offers classical and contemporary dinner shows fusions, also beside the river. Locales include: its own Studio 9 (02-4127287) at 7.30pm on Fridays and Saturdays; the Supatra River House (02-411-0305) next door at 8.30pm on Saturdays; and the Millennium Hilton’s Flow (02-4422000), an exclusive weekly show at 8.30pm on Thursdays that’s creatively choreographed to match each course. Sala Rim Nam

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Food&Drinks

Japanese Misaki (map E4) Face | 29 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 38 | 02713-6048 | BTS Thong Lo | Tue-Sun 6pm – 11pm | $$$ Watching skilled chefs prepare and plate sushi is surely one of the more pleasant ways to while away the time between ordering and eating. At Misaki, the latest addition to the Face restaurant/bar venue, the experience is positively serene. The décor here is unmistakably Face – huge Buddhist sculptures and rich, earthy tones – but there is a cosiness and conviviality all its own. Descending the steps to Misaki’s intimate, but not quite cramped, dining room feels rather peculiar – almost as though you’re being shepherded into a hush-hush wife-swapping party – but any disappointment at not dining in the venue’s justly-celebrated teak house soon evaporates. Fresh otoro (premium tuna belly) and yellowtail mark out the modestly-priced sushi combo (B490++) as something of a bargain on a high-end menu and the simple yakitori starter (B190++) is a dish so juicy and flavoursome, one wonders why grilled chicken can’t always be this good. The grilled salmon belly is another beguilingly straightforward option.

Drinking Tea Eating Rice

Drinking Tea Eating Rice (map C3) Conrad Hotel | Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploenchit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | daily11:30am-2pm & 6pm-11pm | $$$ Authentic Japanese cuisine is a world in itself, sometimes mysterious, often dazzling, always delicious. Although there are people that have to work up courage to go for other things than sushi and sashimi. This hotel restaurant caters equally to novices and experts of Japanese food. Some

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MAN HO

Japanese residents go as far as naming it Bangkok’s best Japanese restaurant. Choose from squirming fresh raw fish or delicate, beer-fed Matsuzaka beef, or just leave it up to the chef ’s brilliant kaiseki set courses from the sushi bar or teppanyaki grill. The interior reflects the justifiably high-priced food: it’s simple but refined, clear-structured and luxurious. Groups should consider booking the smart private rooms with sunken tables.

รร. คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

dim-sum featured

WHERE (map D3) JW Marriott Hotel 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2 | BTS Nana | 02-656-7700 | www.marriott.com WHEN 11:30am – 2:30pm | Mon-Sat price 490&720 net

No, this is not Deuce Bigalow’s restaurant of choice (the name actually means “100 Happiness”). This elegant eatery has forests of wood panelling and classical furniture, though large windows flood the 81-seater space with light, thus eschewing the gloominess of rival Chinese eateries. Stack up the wooden steamer baskets at the all-you-can-eat lunchtime buffet for B490, and stuff yourself silly with newfangled Dim Sum creations, like Crispy Scallops Dumplings Wrapped with Mushed Taro Topped with Wasabi Dressing.

รร.เจดับบลิว แมริออท สุขุมวิท ซ.2 Misaki

food & drinks

bangkok 101

featured

brunch

brunching

runching is big in Bangkok. All five-star hotels and respectable cafés do them. Some are kid-friendly, others are strictly adult. You can get tipsy at some, while others focus on music. Curing a hangover? Need to eat al fresco? We offer you a sampling of Bangkok’s best.

The China House If Sunday brunchathons were judged on looks alone, then The China House’s decadent new offering would surely be numero uno. It’s Sino-stunning. Think 1930s Shanghai dancehall, or Raise the Red Lantern – all lacquered panel walls, intricate fretwork, deep mahogany furniture, and glowing red lanterns. But is this Jasmine scented, opium dream setting a pretty diversion? Or the prelude to something just as special? In any other hotel we’d be skeptical… but this is the Oriental and, true to form, the Old Dame doesn’t disappoint. For B980++, Chef Kong Khai Meng presents a haute Chinese buffet that whets (and satisfies) as much as the romanticised Where Mandarin Oriental, 48 interiors seduce. Plates of Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000 chilled drunken chicken. Open Sundays noon-3pm Hong Kong-style suckling Price B980++ buffet & main pig. Dim sum, from classic meal with tea; B1,380++ buffet & siew mai to innovations like main meal with free flow of tea, deep fried mango shrimp soft drinks and wine fritters. All ultra-fresh and flavoursome. Don’t forget to beckon over one of the female staff dressed in dark, sexy cheongsams and order off the trim menu. After all, you wouldn’t want to miss out on mains like wok-fried garoupa fillet with lotus root and black bean, now would you? Free flowing teas and desserts come included, as does a balloon wizard/magician who will keep your little emperor (or empress) sitting spellbound. And, for an extra B400, you can wash down those steamed scallops with fine-wine. Endless glasses of it! Outstandingly opulent in every respect.

รร.แมนดาริน โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล48

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

tea

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea

featured

The Living Room The weekday high tea at the Sheraton is a fantastic option for those who want to have their cake and eat it, too – a gracious room, crowned with an immense Art Deco spaceship of a chandelier; an unbeatable location. And, oh, cake there is – a crêpe station, a chocolate fountain, sweet morsels by the groaning tableload. Those with a savoury tooth won’t be put out, happily – the Sheraton has a staffed sandwich station of sorts, where you can put delicious meats and cheeses on a full spread of breads. Three varieties of smoked salmon, a salad bar, and heaps of hot bites means that dinner may be WHERE Sheraton Grande an opt-out situation for the especially Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd BTS thorough diner. But don’t let the teas Asok MRT Sukhumvit (mapD3) be completely overshadowed by the 02-649-8888 WHEN Mon-Fri food. Beside the standards, we suggest 3pm-5:30pm, Sun 3pm-6pm PRICE the more unusual apple tea version or a Mon-Fri 500++ Sun 470++ refreshing apple iced-tea, perhaps…all the more room for that big buffet. The Orchid Café also offers a smaller high-tea buffet spread on Sundays – scones, tasty sandwiches that go beyond the tired egg-salad or watercress, pretty desserts – a very good option, but you’ll be missing the Viking-sized spread.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ใกล้สถานีรถไฟฟ้าอโศก

food & drinks

High Teas

■ Sukhumvit Gazebo Sukhumvit Soi 1 | 02-655-2475-6 | BTS Phloen Chit Global tapas until the wee hours.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either. Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you. Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-3919634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02-238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half Restaurant Half Art Gallery with Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

bangkok 101

Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya. Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine ■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare. ■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you’re around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

late-night dining

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.96) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.62). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Sunrise Tacos

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier. Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Thai and International Food food & drinks

Bug and Bee

Food&Drinks

sweet treats

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

Amaltery

The sweltering heat of April is upon us, and what better way to cool down than with a big bowl of ice cream laced with booze? Or, to give it the official description, “alcoholinfused premium ice cream.” Don’t expect to get drunk off this stuff – it’s only 5%, for goodness sake and there are non-alcoholic options available – but do expect a little frisson of excitement as that first spoonful of Long Island Ice Cream WHERE The Urban releases its gentle Kitchen, Erawan Bangkok, rum and tequila Ratchadamri BTS Chit Lom vapours. The ice 02-252-0232,www.amaltery. cream itself is com OPEN10am-10:30pm homemade and PRICE $$ is rich, creamy and fantastically moreish. If you go by the scoop, only a fool would pass on the Kir Royale, a rich and rewarding take on the popular French sparkling wine and crème de cassis cocktail. Or if you prefer your desserts loaded with all manner of crunchy and gooey goodies, then look the waiter straight in the eye, demand a Mexican Wobbler and brace yourself for an oral orgy of creamy parfait, cookie crumble, brownie pieces and Kahlua jelly. A little bit naughty, but ever so nice.

เอราวัณ แบงคอก ถ.ราชดำริ

food & drinks

bangkok 101

Buffet Venues ■ THE MED The Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-207-8000 | daily 6am11pm | Breakfast Buffet: 6:00am-10:30am B650++, Lunch Buffet: noon-2:30pm B750++, Dinner Buffet: 6:00pm-10:30 B1,050++ ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | Mon-Fri noon3pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ HEIGHTS CAFÉ Pan Pacific Bangkok | 02-6329000 ext. 4343 | Mon-Sat 6am-10:30pm, Sun 11:30am3pm | Breakfast B590++, Lunch B610++, Dinner B690++ ■ No.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ Lord jim’s buffet Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ Orchid Café Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ Citi Bistro Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | daily 11:30am – 2:30pm | lunch B650 net, dinner B890net bangkok 101

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

all you can eat

featured

buffet

No. 43 Bistro

Something must be said for a restaurant that has been able to withstand the test of time on Bangkok’s Italian heavy Soi Langsuan. Nine years and counting, this homey bistro manages to keep chugging along. Plying its trade out of the ground floor of Cape House Serviced Apartments, No. 43 leans heavily on rustic Italian classics with generous portions. We had the always on-the-money Pizza with rocket and Parma ham, a tasty Seafood spaghetti Nero and a real scene stealer, Jumbo tiger shrimp with spinach flan. The freshness and the sheer size of the gigantic shrimp made the whole meal worthwhile. It’s definitely cliché, but try the Tiramisu here, it’s WHERE Cape House quite heart stopping. For lunchers the restaurant Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 puts on an all you can eat buffet featuring not Soi Langsuan BTS Chit Lom, only Italian dishes, but Thai and sushi as well 02-658-7444 ext.285 open 6am-midnight (Buffet 11:30am and it’s a steal at B350net. – 2pm) PRICE $ เคปเฮาส์เซอร์วิสอพาร์ทเมนท์ ซ.หลังสวน

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

wine

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine featured

wıne bar

Bangkok’s original multitask venue is not as buzzing as it once was, but is still going strong, thanks to its breathtaking city views, hefty signature cocktails and faultless French food. But perhaps most of all, loyal customers come here for the astounding selection of ever-drinkable, reasonablypriced wines. Lining the narrow corridor leading into this sleek, 37th-floor bar/restaurant is one of the city’s best selections of new and old world wines. Bottles are handsomely displayed in wooden crates, cellar-style; and best of all, you pay supermarket prices for the vino, and are not even charged corkage. V9’s WHERE Sofitel Silom resident French chefs are justifiably known for Hotel (map C4), 188 their fab ‘Tasting Trees’ and an impressive Silom Road, 02-2381991 BTS Chong Nonsi selection of fine cheeses from France and beyond – somehow all the food goes rather OPEN Daily 5pm-2am well with those long wine-drinking sessions. Knowledgeable waitstaff are on-hand to make recommendations to suit your taste and budget. Besides food and wine, V9 has earned itself a name for art-exhibitions, live music, DJs and lively events. Where better to spend a rainy night?

วีนาย รร.โซฟิเทล สีลม ถ.สีลม

food & drinks

Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

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Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

DJ Cavo

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Cowboy (btw sois 21 & 23). And voguish but affordable amount of options – so much more than just the hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and whisky-sippin’ naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot sois of Thong A night out here can easily have you flitting between Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.93) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.88), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.86. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can. The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.90), there’s something for all. Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here. Supperclub (p.84) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes – n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque Soi where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks. 82

nightlife

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

nightclubs

Bed Supperclub

Bed Supperclub Image by Marcus Gortz

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past five year s, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over top-class world talent (including some very eclectic ar t) for special events. Tuesday’s Hip Hop party packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with tribal house music. Sunday is ‘Think Pink’ and features a colourful Burlesque show.

Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no. five-phase project. The ground level houses the nightclub’s main dance floor, blasting everything from 70s funk to modern electronica. With signature drinks such as the Time Square, Liberty, Empire State and Wall Street, you won’t be surprised to learn that the first floor space is dubbed New York Nightclub. Despite the name, the combination of crushed velvet drapes over the liquor selection, concrete floors and warm earth tones create a scene that’s not so much Manhattan as it is Morocco meets IKEA. Meanwhile, Hip-Hoppers can seek refuge in the Underground Hip Hop Club, which comes equipped with an independent sound system, full bar and DJ booth. พี35 เพชรบุรี ซ.35 Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | nightly 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka on offer!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife eight years ago and is still going strong, with a crowd every night and many big-name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Beat Therapy hip-hop party, Wednes-

day’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Liquid Thursday’s Funky House. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the newly renovated bar/ lounge. Some relative solitude can be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather and people watching. คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11 Funky Villa (map E4 ) Thong Lor Soi 10| BTS Thong Lor| 085253-2000 | 6pm-2am So, you want to party at the happening cusp of the Thong Lor scene? Here it is – for the next five minutes or so. The name Funky Villa conjures images of roller-blading 70s babes in bikinis, partying at a Hugh Hefner-like villa in the Med. The reality’s different. Steer your way through the fairground-sized car park, past the BMWs and chic lounge-deck area, and you’ll hit a swish one-storey house, more posh than funky. Some of Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls around in the front room; but most hit the fridge-cool dancehall to boogie away the week’s woes to live bands and hiphop DJs. Forget edgy sounds – here it’s all about getting down and flirty with the CEOs of tomorrow.

ฟังกี้ วิลล่า ทองหล่อ ซ.10

เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

P35 (map D3) 1091/175 Phetchaburi Soi 35 | 02651-6615 | www.petburi35.com | 10pm-2am Once a popular theatre complex, this large windowless structure halfway down Phetchaburi Soi 35 is both intriguing and, dare we say, intimidating. After passing through the massive medieval style doors, partygoers are greeted by the first instalment of a 84

Funky Villa

nightlife

bangkok 101

Parkbridge

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | nightly 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For 14 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live percussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-or-miss, but weekends are always packed and hopping. ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 CLUB CULTURE (map C3) Sri Ayutthaya Rd (opp. Siam City Hotel) | BTS Phaya Thai | 08-9497-8422 | www.club-culture-bkk.com | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am | B400 (incl. 2 drinks) Club Culture comes from the owners of the online clubbers’ guide, Buzzin’ Mag and Café Democ. Climb carpeted steps, pass through a curtained stairwell and you’ll enter a space where chandeliers and Thai wood carvings hang from the ceiling. Strategically placed structures, great for resting an elbow or a drink, dot the open-plan dance floor, surrounded by plush sofas and stools. It’s a beautiful building but the toilets lack a little finesse. This modish, 1,000capacity club attracts a cross-cultural mix of trendy Thais and expats and the diversity is mirrored in the music policy. They aim to promote new talent, while still bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of break beat, electronica, trance, indie rock, drum ‘n’ bass and house music of all genres. คลับ คัลเจอร์ ถ. ศรีอยุธยา bangkok 101

THE CLUB (map A2-3) 123 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-1010 | www.theclubkhaosan.com | free The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers will be amazed to find they’ve entered a castle on Khao San Road. The spiral staircase to the central DJ platform and sky-high windows give a fairy-tale vibe that would make Rapunzel want to let her hair down and hang loose. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house with a B300-500 entry fee for special events from psy-trance to breakbeat to global DJs. Ladies’ night on Thursdays treats the crowd to live percussion, while a saxophonist jazzes it up on Fridays.The drink prices are kind to your wallet and dancers entertain on Friday and Saturday nights. The Club aims to raise the stakes on the Khao San strip with plans for an outdoor monitor that will stream live action from the naughty goings-on inside. เดอะ คลับ ถ. ข้าวสาร Parkbridge (mapC4) 5 Patpong Soi 2, 3rd Fl., (entrance opposite Foodland) | BTS Sala Daeng | www.theparkbridge.com | 6pm-5am “Upstairs in Patpong” used to be code for spectacularly sordid girly shows. No longer. Climb the stairs lined with urban graffiti murals and silver antlers, slink past the red velvet curtain and you’re in a dark, slick, intimate boite de nuit occupying a bridge between two car parks (thus “Parkbridge”). Glam Victorian furnishings add sparkle to a rectangle, steel warehouse-like space with a luminous bar in the centre; and the only sleaze in sight is out the windows lining either side, on the street below. Shimmy to Gallic DJ’s playing loungey deep house and euphoric electro, plus the odd spinning of drum & bass, indie or hiphop. Entrance is free, happy hours from 6-9pm nightly, and a one-off membership fee gets you discount tipples and access to a spangly mezzanine. Check out their website and click the Facebook link for info on their evolving weekly line-up. ปาร์คบริดจ์ พัฒน์พงษ์ ซ. 2 nightlife

Cabarets MAMBO (map D4) Washington Square, Sukhumvit Rd near Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-2595128 | daily 8:30pm & 10pm | B800 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ วอชิงตันสแควร์ ถ. สุขุมวิท

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,000 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ่ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Nightlife Rumpuree

latin rhythms

Señor Pico

Bangkok’s riding high on the Latin wave. People crowd salsa and tango dance classes and shake it at steaming parties. Inexpensive La Rueda is a small, salsa-only venue with lots of atmosphere, especially on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, when you can salsa with DJ Jorge from Mexico from 10pm to 1am. Dance lessons take place every Tuesday (pulsating zouk from 8-10pm) and Thursday to Saturday nights (sexy salsa from 7:30-10pm). The salsa social has taken off at several venues around town as a relaxed way to learn the moves and meet other salsa enthusiasts. RumPUREE World Dance Studio offers a New York Salsa Social every first and third Saturday of the month (6-9pm); Salsa Hacha Fusion Café and Dance Studio holds theirs between Wednesday and Sunday (7-9pm); Tapas Bar on Tuesdays (7-10pm) and Señor Pico on Wednesdays night. If you’ve already got skills (or just enough margaritas) under your belt and you’re ready to hit the clubs, Noriega’s, a small, unpretentious straight venue in a mostly gay soi, is teeming with a hot, fun, adult crowd on Sunday and Wednesday nights when the DJ pumps out Latin tunes. Barsu, at the Grand Sheraton, has DJ Greco from Cuba spinning out salsa, samba and African rhythms from 10pm-1am on 86

Thursdays. DJ Greco also takes it to posh Bed Supperclub on Wednesdays, where he hosts his Salsa Revolucion, while V9, at Sofitel Silom Bangkok, has Latino DJ Jorge Bernal every last Friday of the month. If tango is what you’re after, hightail it over to Mediterraneo for their Milonga (tango dance party) nights on Monday (classes welcome beginners from 7:30-8:30pm), HOPS on Fridays from 6-8:30pm, Flava at Dream Hotel from 7:30-11pm on Sundays or Siam@Siam Hotel on Thursdays. The Summer Mansion also hosts a Tango Practica every Thursday as well as a Milonga night every fourth Saturday of the month. For more details, check out www.salsabangkok.com and www.tangobangkok.com. n La Rueda (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 18 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-9669 n Salsa Hacha Fusion Café and Dance Studio (map C4) Silom Soi 6 | BTS Sala Daeng | 02634-3383-4 | www.salsahacha.com n Tapas (map C3)Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-632-7982 n Señor Pico (map D3) Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-2617100 ext. 7550-1 n Barsu (map D3) Sheraton Grand nightlife

HOPS

bars

Barsu

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. As gimmicks go, this one surely takes the cake (or,

bangkok 101

rather, the feather-light crème brûlée). In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. While you’re still getting your head round one sly culinary twist (warm tom yum kung jelly, anyone?) you’re hit with yet another gastronomic slight of hand.The imaginative presentation throughout echoes the innovation of the dishes, and won’t murder your wallet. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

บาร์สุ รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท

nightlife

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art galler y is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s r aucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place. The vivacious owner and bar tender Patti holds cour t nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnamese-inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (on an irregular schedule, often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues. The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ. หลังสวน

Nightlife

bars SHADES OF RETRO (map E4) Soi Tararom 2,Thong Lo | BTS Thong Lo 081-824-8011 | 2pm-midnight | cash only Tired of trotting around the design mall Playground, looking at cute but overpriced tchotchkes? Head on over to Shades of Retro, a hidden spot awash in neo-nostalgia and stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, old rotary telephones – hipster attic, here we come. A combo furniture store-café, Shades provides a quiet hangout for the writer/designer/ artiste crowd by day, fun people-watching at night, and nice jazz at all times. Curl up on a nubby couch, flip through a Wallpaper magazine and soak up the atmosphere, which flirts with being too ironic for its pants. A cool, friendly crowd and bracing cocktails or coffee served up with popcorn humanizes the hip, thankfully. Cheers for the trendy Thong Lo crowd.

เฉดส์ ออฟ เรโทร ซ.ธารารมย์ 2

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is little more than a wooden shack with a couple of barstools surrounding it, a makeshift kiosk really. Every night, an eclectic mix of tourists and foreign residents populates the stools – be prepared to stand. The prices are unbelievably low – you can get a G&T for B60, while beer sells for B50. No girlie bar, the unique place is heavily stuffed with oddities collected over the 20 years this Bangkok institution’s been in operation. Buffalo skulls, beehives, tribal masks and sex toys hang down from rafters, while the bar is stocked with an impressive range of alcohol. Beware to ‘only piss in toilets’, as one sign warns you. Ask the patrons about the bar’s countless myths. Go down Soi 11 and take the first left. The perfect place to while away some boozy hours amidst experienced barflies.

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02-286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late Quentin Tarantino would love this quirky late-night watering hole. On the block for 20 years and a must for music geeks, there’s not a working girl in sight, not even a waitress.Two fridges stocked with cheap drinks invite a self-service and pay-as-you-go honour system. Wong’s Place is known to Bangkok old-timers and it’s not uncommon to find guests revisiting the bar for the first time in years with travel stories to tell and looking for their photo on the wall. Owner Sam Wong inherited and extended his brother’s love for music videos, everything from 1950s jazz through punk to MTV-influenced babel. Wong’s houses the largest known collection in Asia, if not globally.Take his opening hours with a grain of salt:Wong opens when the mood fits.

ชีพ ชาร์ลยี ์ ถ. สุขมุ วิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

11 10

Hemlock

The Club

PHra athit rd

Police Station

3 kHao san rd

8 9

6 5

1 Burger King

Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of city execs, dek naew and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young, Converse-clad locals jump along to excellent live ska. A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite D.O.S [4] serves a moreish Brit Rock-only diet. Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down a tiny alley, is a trendy cocktail house clad in eclecticism and cool kitsch. Enter The Club [6] for a UV electro-rave wonderland with free glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an Arabesque rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till very very late. For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club [10] deserves a mention. For outstanding seafood and absolutely no flair, check out Thon Po [11]. Directly on the riverside, this breezy place offers fantastic views and delicious fish and crustaceans from an expansive menu. Call ahead to reserve a riverfront spot. 88

nightlife

bangkok 101

Zuk Bar

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | Mon-Sat 4pm – 1am, Sun noon – midnight This languid hotel bar is where guests and clued-up city suits come to enjoy an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquility – to unwind, sip and converse. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the look, the mood, the service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for hushed heartto-hearts. The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a chill spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior. Accompanying the zesty cocktails, served by quietly solicitous lady staff in silk, is a menu of creative canapés, and, from Tues through to Sat, soulful, chat-friendly tunes courtesy of a DJ.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

RAIN DOGS (map C4) 16 Soi Phraya Phiren, Rama 4 Rd | 081-720-6989 (Jum), 087-055-9407 (Cartoon) | 9pm till late Though rain dogs are poor mutts who lose the scent of home in the rain, it’s the humans who forget where home is after frequenting this bar, where half the pleasure is in finding the bar in the first place. A human-sized birdcage, pond and collage-like décor add to Rain Dogs’ character, while windows and patio doors blur the line between indoor and outdoor space. Though DJs and salsa nights are featured on occasion, the music policy is mainly DIY: bring your iPod to plug in and play, request what you want to hear or start your own jam session on the drums.The vibe swings pleasantly between rowdy and chilled and the Thai indie kid/artsy expat clientele can choose from an array of inexpensive beers and spirits.

GAZEBO (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 1 | BTS Phloenchit | 02-655-2475~6 | 7pm till late This airy rooftop bar’s remarkable Moroccan-style makeover has made it a popular alternative in the Sukhumvit area nightlife scene. Past the street front tuxedoed bouncers you go, along a lengthy, dim-lit corridor. A quick elevator boost to the fourth floor later, and Gazebo unfurls its multifarious charms. Turn right for the outdoor lounge: a melange of low tables, silky cushions, ornate flickering Egyptian lamps, and billowing drapes. Kick back with a dark grape-flavoured sheesha, choose from a range of innovative, multi-cultural tapas and check out the eclectic mix of live music. Heading left, slick nightclub The Harem offers a more upbeat, DJ-fuelled groove – although the seating sanctuary just begs you to cosy up among the plush cushions for an intimate heart-to-heart.

กาเซโบ สุขุมวิท ซ.1

Saras in Rd.

เรนด๊อกส์ ซ. พระยาพิเรนทร์ ถ.พระราม 4

SARASIN ROAD (map C3)

It sure is fun to hang in Bangkok’s hopping hoods, but sometimes the throngs around RCA, Khao San and Silom Soi 4 get too much. The hippest youngsters (and the ones looking young) congregate on a short strip just north of Lumphini Park, a stone’s throw away from Silom. Trendy Singaporeans have discovered the western end of Sarasin Road as a playground, but only a few Caucasians venture here. The educated, fun-seeking masses of all sexual orientations are nice enough to strike up a conversation with, the music is fun, prices are low – it’s the perfect place for a relaxed night out. Even Monday nights see these small bars well-peopled; they’re heaving on weekends. Start your night out early at The Room. Two-floored and airy, with funky décor and richly colored walls, it sports the strip’s best food – fun fusion dishes for okay prices. Later, it fills up with glam guys and house beats. 70s Bar is quite homo-friendly, and celebrates 70s and 80s tunes plus Euro Pop. Eclectic seating is worth a look inside. Zarazine does cheesy live music while 2nd Round and Bard are heavily hetero and focus on hip hop. Upstairs I-Chub is the place for clubby boys and their fans to do some karaoke. Brown Sugar, one of Bangkok’s top live jazz venues, is the most mature of the bunch. Each bar puts out tables on the pavement, creating an almost European feel beneath the trees and offering perfect people-watching, especially at 1am when the lights go on and everybody streams out on the street. bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

Red Sky

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

ทรีซิกตี้ รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Red Sky (map C3) Centara Grand Hotel, Rama 1 Road | BTS Chid Lom/Siam | 02-100-1234 | www.centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm – 1am Hi-octane views, svelte Martinis, rattan loungers to enjoy them on. Ironically, the only thing you won’t be seeing at Centara Grande’s chicly lit al fresco bar is red. When not gasping at the city flickering like a circuit-board beneath you, let yourself be entertained by the boomerang-like edifice changing colour above the translucent bar; or stargaze into the fibre optic solar system embedded in the curving, wood-panel wall. Sip a bottle from their space-age wine cellar, or a well-mixed cocktail; they shake everything from Ying Yangs to classic Caipirinhas. Fifty five floors below, it’s all car horns and consumer frenzy, but up here, glass in hand, live jazz wafting through the ether, not even a gust of wind can upset the cosmic balance – glass barriers mean there are, virtually, none.

รร.เซ็นทารา แกรนด์ เซ็นทรัล เวิลด์ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of highflying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

เดอะลองเทเบิ้ล สุขุมวิท 16

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3/4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart-casual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

bangkok 101

Nest

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee. The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe. The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights. The music is good, and the view through the floorto-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is hear t-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

วีนาย รร. โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

มูนบาร์ รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

bangkok 101

THE ROOF TOP (map C3) 83F Baiyoke Sky Hotel | 222 Rajaprarop Rd | 02-656-3000 | www.baiyokehotel.com | 10am – 1:30am | B200 Perched above it all, the view is the best and seemingly only draw at this ageing and very campy sky-high watering hole. Step off the elevator and it’s like you’ve been transported to outer space. That is if outer space had tutti-frutti coloured walls. Passable cocktails and the loungy live cover band won’t distract you from what really makes this place really worth visiting: the sprawling metropolis below. For full-screen Bangkok, take the stairs, pass the kitschy solar system murals and extra-terrestrials (yes, seriously) up to the 84th floor and let the wind hit you in the face on the open-air revolving deck and try to spot the now ant-sized malls you were in earlier.

เดอะรูฟท๊อป รร.ใบหยกสกาย

NEST (map D3) Le Fenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-305-4000, www.lefenix-sukhumvit.com | 5pm-2am How low can the rooftop bar go? Pretty darn low says the sensepiquing success of Nest, an open-air hangout on the ninth floor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel. Despite a lack of loftiness – skyscrapers sprawl around you, not below you – the views are intoxicating. And then there’s the management’s lust for all things loungy. Fan-enhanced breezes and smooth Balearic sounds waft across a lush, barely-lit Zen garden spotted with pathways, palms and intimate seating areas. Snuggle with your lovebird on the Thai-style swing beds and Nestshaped rattan chairs; or bring your glampacker pals for some pre-club Manuka Mules and Tapas-y snacks, before you swoop down to nearby Bed Supperclub or Q Bar.

รร.เลอฟีนิกซ์ สุขุมวิท ซ.11

Amorosa (map A3) Arun Residence 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Rd, 02-221nightlife

Moon Bar

9158, www. arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Amour flows freely at this Moroccan-tinged hotel bar, a 4thfloor rooftop decked out with candles, glass-round tables and tall chairs. A bartender shakes sugary cocktails to an accompaniment of suitably soft music and warm breezes, and if it weren’t for the views you could be on the French Riviera. But views – postcard-perfect, indubitably Thai – there are… on the far banks of the city’s Chao Phraya River the seminal Wat Arun temple glints, golden and majestic, while the dark waters beneath perform an endless shimmer. Order a signature Arun Sunset or Met Amorosa cocktail, or a bottle from their extensive wine-list (think Australian, Chilean or Italian, prices from B950-4,100). Then pinch yourself. One of Bangkok’s most beguilingly lovey-dovey spots – especially at sundown.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

Nightlife

jazz clubs THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com | daily 10am12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s still a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be wellentertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. From April The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch each week. ลิฟวิ่งรูม รร. เชอราตัน

แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท

Bamboo Bar

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident songstress, Victoria Horne (untill June). Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon. A definite big Bangkok must. แบมบูบาร์ รร.โอเรียลเต็ล

nightlife

Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style lounge – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for guest vocalist Cherryl Hayes, trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available. นิวส ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม

Niu’s on Silom

bangkok 101

nightlife areas

ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

road

LO C

road

For a night of clubbing, Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music. Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] preaches bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Beside it, HOBB [4] is an industrial chic, two-storey bar. Expect DJs, live music plus occasional appearances by local bands like Bodyslam. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [5], a slick red-brick warehouse with a stunning sound system and sets by global DJ gods. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] attracts the drain-pipe jeans, rock-guitar rabble. There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a strict girls-only policy. No men, gay men, drag queens or peeping Tom’s allowed. RCA road

1 2

4 5

Sukhumvit Soi 11

On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs tucked off steamy Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with fashionable expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of chi-chi clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely. This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 9 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]; a curvaceous club-cum-restaurant that wows with spacey looks, soft white divans and Ibiza-esque beats. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad bigger than a broom 1 cupboard. Nest [4], a breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, 4 5 is a more 2 Bed Supperclub upscale option offering laid-back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean Bangkok 3 you were after? For something more risqué check out new neighbour Diva [5]. Inside, caged coyotedancers pull off raw, hi-energy dance moves in what they enticingly call: “A femme fatale of a nightclub.” Think Moulin Rouge meets the Pussycat Dolls with SUKHUMVIT road throbbing house beats and you’re close. Soi 11

Q Bar

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

live music BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this longstanding, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yester year with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band star ts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

TITANIUM ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 | www.titanium-club. com | daily 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly. Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 90-some varieties to choose from. An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

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Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age time-capsule. Raintree hosts musicians 94

Raintree Pub

playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a band at around 11pm adds bongos, mandolin and accordion. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 18 years ago and, it seems, has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, soul-stirring. There are too many insipid, cover-spouting live music bars in Bangkok – and too few like this one.

for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quar ter), the down-to-ear th, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’.The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except nightlife

Brown Sugar

bangkok 101

never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do the Thai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) As the name suggests, this bar’s built solely from red brick. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, it’s a dark and airy vault, with benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with fresh-faced 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. The excellent T-Bone, a charismatic Thai outfit who flit from reggae to rocksteady and even samba, has been known to turn up. Good Thai food is available from the sister hotel, though you may struggle to find dancing space, let alone a pew. Beers start from B60, cocktails from B150 and even the obligatory whisky is given a slinky twist, with table service from tiny but hardy waitress “pretties”. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

music cave tucked along RCA, a clubstrip that usually does a good line in generic hip-hop superclubs. Inside, bands rock out while vintage Les Paul and Fender Stratocaster guitars, presented in backlit wall alcoves, like hallowed museum pieces, look on. The orange-themed décor is a little more suave than your average rock dive, but there’s no doubting where this place would be at an Iron Maiden gig: up front in the mosh-pit, fists stabbing the air. Check their website for news of up-and-comers at this last bastion of good ol’ fashioned rock’n’roll.

โอเวอร์โทน ถ.อาร์ซีเอ โซนดี

SAXOPHONE PUB (map C2) 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 02 246-5472 | www.saxophonepub.com | 6pm-2am This unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. Just a stone’s throw away from a BTS station, it’s nevertheless not a tourist hangout. Filled with masses of fun-filled, youngish Thais and the odd foreigner thrown in, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its low-ceilinged, wooden floors. Nightly, talented Thai bands belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk and R&B while the crowd feasts on heartyThai and Western fare.

แซ็กโซโฟน ผับ ถ.พญาไท

Saxophone Pub

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

Overtone (map E3) 29/70-72 RCA Zone D | 02-203-0423 | www.overtone.tv | Closed Mon/Tues It’s only been open two years and already Overtone has what every venerable rock club needs: a wall of fame. And it’s a good one. Megadeth and, all hail, Jimmy Page have both graced Overtone with their stragglyhaired presence, as has pretty much every lightening fingered axe-grinder in the Kingdom. Not bad for a live bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

pub crawling

here are many ways of quenching a thirst, but surely the most enjoyable has to be sipping a pint of real beer in a proper public house. With an unexpectedly wide choice of British and Irish bars offering a taste of pub life, Bangkok won’t let you down on this front. Each month Bangkok 101 gives you the low-down on one of the top taverns around town.

featured

Queen Victoria

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This mock Dickensian London boozer, with its dark-woods and Londontheme prints and photographs, isn’t going to win any awards for interior flair. However, it’s a good spot for a quiet pint in salubrious, familyfriendly surrounds – something you’ll struggle to find otherwise in this neighbourhood: the surreally sleazy red-light Soi Cowboy area. The spacious open-plan downstairs features a semi-circular bar and faux-leather upholstered booths, chairs and stools. It’s a tad Victorian gothic; perfect for melancholic stares into the bottom of a Where Sukhumvit beer glass. Upstairs, the mezzanine has a cheerier feel due to Soi 23, 02-661-7417 its light brown parquet fixtures, but doesn’t see much traffic (map D3) BTS Asok other than during functions. Open 9am – 1am You’ll find a range of Euro and Asian brews on tap; and elongated happy hours running from 4:30-7:30pm nightly (bottles B75, pints B90, double measures B90). No surprises with the food, either: British pub grub classics, like bangers and mash and toad-in-the-hole, sit alongside Thai staples. Entertainment comes from wall-to-wall widescreens showing sport, plus a singer/guitarist who pops in at 8pm on Mon, Wed and Fri. There’s also free wi-fi and copies of the Sunday papers. A tad too gloomy? A pleasant outdoors area beaming with sun umbrellas caters to smokers and those who find the Queen Vic’s traditionalism stuffy.

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bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. With Kilkenny and Guinness on tap, Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer including John Smith’s, Beer Lao and Guinness, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak sathorn road

Thaniya

patpong

Convent road

Surasak road

silom road

2 1 BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

Sukhumvit AREA PUBS

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BTS Asoke

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BTS Nana

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Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [12] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, including draught Kilkenny and Guinness, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [11], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [10] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [9], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene

Shopping Tips Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering citysized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map - and prepare for sheer retail overload. Read through the following tips and you’ll save time, grief and money – and bag even more Bangkok booty! fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. VAT: Look out for signs advertising “VAT Refund or Tourists”. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7% on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000

at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passport and tickets with you when you buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airport VAT refund counter. Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th

THANN

Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head. Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a 98

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Silk/apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com

Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power. At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com bangkok 101

Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down. The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for royalty), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com Jewellery/gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionallymined precious stones. The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam. There are a few diamonds in the rough, though. Lambert Industries, with their friendly and reliable service, has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. n Lambert Industries (807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg 4F, Silom Rd Soi 17, 02-236-4343). Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get shopping

stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, homegrown “stuff” that Bangkok is justly famous for. their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while

OTOP : One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP, a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living. 99

Shopping

Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.102). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week. Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.102); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee

youth-orientated shopping mall Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer homespun high fashions by labels like Jaspal and Greyhound. Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City

L’ Arcadia

131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595 Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant,gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations

of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th n Panpuri Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Isetan Plaza (CentralWorld) F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info

UNIQUE boutique Imitation goods are ubiquitous in the world’s counterfeit capital, so you’ve every right to give your prospective antiques dealer the Spanish Inquisition. At L’Arcadia, a tiny Southeast Asian antiques wonderland on Sukhumvit Soi 23, by all means fire away. Proprietor Khun Tum regularly heads northwest and into neighbouring Burma to replenish his stocks, and so is clued-up and forthcoming about the origin of everything herein; Where 12/2 Sukhumvit from that lacquer betel nut box Soi 23, 02-259-9595 BTS you’re fondling, to that Burmese Asok Open 10am-9pm wooden folk-tale statue you fancy beside your fireplace. Questions asked, suspicions eased, take your time exploring. Every inch reveals another creaky old treasure: a Lanna temple manuscript cabinet with gold-lacquer murals (B250,000), a kneeling bronze horse (B14,000), terracotta ceramics, carved wooden roof gables, gold-leaf Buddhist food containers. We also liked – no, loved – the cow bells, old wheels and pieces of carved wood depicting mythical nagas, all from retired Burmese ox carts. Don’t fancy lugging that Khmer sandstone stupa (one of the few reproduction items available here) home in your suitcase? Ask and Khun Tum will arrange affordable door-to-door overseas shipping.

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SIAM SQUARE

shopping tours finish HERE soi 2

soi 3

Rama 1

This buzzing locale may take its name from Thailand’s past, but its daily dayglow retail frenzy is a distinctly modern phenomenon. From premium brands to shoddy knockoffs; subtly modified student uniforms to show-stopping Cosplay-inspired gothic Lolitas, Siam Square is the Thai home of conspicuous consumption – a modern national pastime-cum-popular face-gaining strategy – and a prime spot for checking out Bangkok’s vibrant street fashions. Not only is the general vicinity a nominal open-air catwalk, but any Thai fashion label or trendy start-up worth its salt is represented here, hence the trend for youthful enterprises with quirky, anglicised names, like It’s Happened to be a Closet on soi 3, which stocks vintage girly fashions and also offers salon services and a menu of decent Italian cuisine. Gather yourself and dive headlong into a crowded cache of boutique-y market stalls - and prepare to bump elbows with young socialites and gangs of giggling students alike. The little alley tucked next door to the Lido cinema complex is as good an entry point as any. Those wishing to try shopping Thai-style, should shop at a leisurely pace, snacking every step of the way and taking regular breaks in the closest air con-chilled space – hopefully an I-Berry ice cream parlour. For some, the golden rule is: if you see something you like, buy it while you have the chance; Siam Square nurtures impulse buying. Resistance is a brave but naïve gesture, and ultimately futile.

soi 4

soi 5

start here

BTS Siam

THONG LO In recent years this long boulevard has emerged as a scene to see and be seen in; an upmarket playground for well-heeled, studiously cool zeitgeist followers; somewhere boasting conditions favourable to celebrities, models, media types and international school students, who linger there sipping endless moccachinnos, playing with their phones killing sweet time while secretly yearning to be talent-spotted. As befits such an eminent locale – if indeed Thong Lor is still riding fickle fashion’s unsteady slipstream as you read this – luxury condos, trendy nightspots, boutique lifestyle emporiums, and designer spas line the avenue. Hop off the BTS at Thong Lo station and on to a local red bus near the entrance to the soi, ride it until almost the end of the street then stroll back. Grab a restorative coffee at J-Avenue, on soi 15, hosts an Apple shop, trendy alfresco cafes and stylish Asian eateries, as well as boutiques flaunting sexy heels and handbags. And, incidentally, if there seems to be an unusual proliferation of blushing brides carousing about, it’s because Thong Lor’s posh wedding studios have formed a latter-day marital Mecca for Bangkok’s great and good. On the corner of soi 10, the Third Place, where at TrueLife@Thong lo you can sip smashing smoothies and use the Internet.

bangkok 101

start here

shopping

new phetchaburi rd

Third Place

soi 20

soi 10

finish here

soi 18

J Avenue

soi 55 (Thong lo)

soi 6

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BTS Thong Lo

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Shopping

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 The Four Seasons 4 Grand Hyatt Erawan 5 Intercontinental 6 Holiday Inn 7 Conrad 8 Plaza Athenee 9 Royal Orchid Sheraton 10 The Oriental 11 The Peninsula 12 Shangri-La

1 Phaya Thai rd

Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

CENTRALWORLD BTS Siam All hail Bangkok’s largest shopping mall, uniquely served by an elevated walkway connecting Siam Skytrain station to its Chit Lom counterpart.

ZEN BTS Siam This pop art-styled, multilevel designer department store aims to attire Bangkok’s young-at-heart funsters in the latest international fashions. 3

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

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oen k c har

To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

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EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its air y architecture . Look for TCDC , the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

phyra

C EN T R A L C HI T LOM BTS Chit Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

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BTS Ploen Chit

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GAYSORN BTS Chid Lom All-white interior of glitzy, top-class brands – expect Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

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lang suan rd

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

Ratchadamri rd

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chid Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine. Think Burberry. BTS Chitlom

uri rd

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam

Phaya Thai rd

ph e tb

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastro-gems and indie cinemas.

ong s u raw

OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel. 12

m s ilo

bangkok 101

LAMBERT… WHERE LUXURY AND VALUE MEET

Your reliable source for gems and jewelry. American owned and operated for 35 years. GEMSTONES, PEARLS, AND CUSTOM JEWELRY TO YOU AT WHOLESALE PRICES WORLDWIDE WHOLESALER, EXPERT GEM CUTTERS & EXPORTER OF FINE GEMS

Visit our showroom, sit with us, we’ll design and create the piece of your dreams, choose from thousands of stones, all shapes sizes and colors…or buy from our ready made boutique collection. Trust Lambert and color your world with Thailand’s most beautiful gemstones. LAMBERT INDUSTRIES LTD. 807-809 Silom Shanghai Building, 4th floor Soi 17, Silom Road, Bangkok 10500, Thailand Tel. 66 2-236-4343/49 Fax. 66 2-236-4810

www.lambertgems.com

Shopping

markets

Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-that-be auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s obsessive collection of modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนท์บาร์ซาร์

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these fragrant surrounds.

Chatuchak

CHATUCHAK (map D1) Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere – the rest can get lost – literally. Taking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which zillions descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Chatuchak quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs during ‘Nam; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has somehow evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for peddling endangered species). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order begins to crystallise from the chaos (Nancy Chandler’s famous 104

map also comes in invaluable). Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits - although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated fix.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: shopping

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was hailed as “Venice of the East”.

เทเวศน์

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the “thieves market”, this smallish street-side market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique, and a seemingly random assortment of household appliances. As its nickname would suggest, ample bargains await patient, eagleeyed shoppers - though don’t expect a receipt, let alone a refund.

นครเกษม

Chatuchak

bangkok 101

Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny T-shirts, wooden carvings, paintings and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the stuff on offer can be picked up in the malls and markets – but where’s the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain!

Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tiedye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff (frayed t-shirts, handbags, polka dot dresses etc) are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale by the city’s baby-faced entrepreneurs. Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here. bangkok 101

sidewalks

Khao San

Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone? Pratunam A ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!). Spreading out from the base shopping

of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item.

Sukhumvit

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Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In each new issue Bangkok 101 brings you the best of Bangkok’s new breed – those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy, boutique hotel banner.

Ma Du Zi (map D4) 9/1 Ratchadaphisek Rd | 02-2588518 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | www.maduzihotel.com | Studio B8,500++ until end Oct, Suite B12,000++ until end Oct Hidden away in plain sight, Ma Du Zi doesn’t even boast a sign outside. Tucked just off of the main Asok intersection, Ma Du Zi (meaning “come and see” in Thai) makes good on both the tantalising promise of its name and the privacy of its location – walking into this luxe boutique hotel feels like being let in on a fantastic secret. Top-notch design is backed up by furnishings and gadgets of similar calibre – a circular bar and Moroccan-themed screens in the lobby; espresso makers, flat-screen TVs and Bose sound systems in the sleek, contemporary rooms. The hotel has no pool, but who needs one, with an “infinity tub” in every room? Fill it up (water runs from the ceiling) for a bath fit for a Roman empress. The beds are similarly decadent – “California king-size” and dressed in what feels like million-thread linens, they could sleep an entire family. A gorgeous, hip concept hotel, expertly executed.

รร.มาดูซี ถ.รัชดาภิเษก

PRA-NAKORN NORN-LEN 46 Thewet Soi 1, Phranakorn (map A2) | 02-628-8188-90 | www.phranakorn-nornlen.com | single B1,800, double B2,200 This charming little retreat has shabby chic down to an art form. Designed as an urban refuge, Pra-Nakorn Norn-Len feels more backpacker beat than boutique, but is wonderfully quaint and welcoming for being comparatively luxe-less. Close to the sights in the Old City, it boasts some lovely gardens, complete with two pet parrots perched freely on the ground’s trees, and rooms kitted out with hand-painted details. Dedicated to the concept of the “slow life,” the inn offers no TVs in guest rooms, no laundry service, and serves only one meal – a hearty, and quite delicious vegetarian breakfast – in order to encourage guests to patronise local businesses. While the price may seem a bit dear for what you get – rooms can be a bit spare – the hotel offers good deals for longer stays, and the “good-for-you” concept is so convincingly and cheerfully executed that you’ll want to while away your days for longer than you’d planned.

พระนครนอนเล่น เทเวศน์ ซ.1

FEATURED HOTEL

Imm Fusion

There are certain things you’d expect to find out in On Nut, at the far-eastern end of the Sukhumvit Skytrain line: a cheap clothing market, a Tesco Lotus, perspiring commuters. However, this fetching 168-room budget hotel with Old Morocco stylings isn’t one of them. For the money, Imm Fusion has no right being so darn good-looking: a terracotta drive, lined with trickling water vases and torch-stick lamps, segues into a thin, wine-red courtyard where overhead fans spin, mosaic floors clack at every step, and guests lounge in silky, dessert-tent style alcoves. Beyond reception, just past a burnished gold Ganesha statue, there’s also a small pool flanked by exotic wooden pillars and a Bordello-ish spa area. So far, so Arabian Nights. Where’s the catch? The 169 rooms are basic. Spare but not shabby (flat-screen TVs, electronic safes, arched Mosque windows). Also, proximity to the Skytrain can’t hide the fact that you’re quite far out. But what did you expect at these prices? Free Wi-fi? Breakfast? A gym? Well, believe it or not, you’re in luck chuck.

WHERE 1594/50 Sukhumvit Road, Prakanong, 02-331-5555 BTS On Nut, www.immhotel. com PRICE B1,000-2,500++

อิมม์ ฟิวชั่น ใกล้สถานีบีทีเอส อ่อนนุช

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accommodation

bangkok 101

The Stylish

New Way to Sleep in Bangkok

seven design hotel 3/15 Sukhumvit 31 Bangkok 10110 t: +662.662.0951 f: +662.662.3344 e: info@sleepatseven.com www.sleepatseven.com

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

Thai-massage

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.109 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

Urban Retreat Spa – 31/10 Sukhumvit Soi 35 / BTS Phrom Phong / 02-204-2008-9 / www. urbanretreatspa.net <http://www.urbanretreatspa.net> / 10am-10pm / $ 30-minute Himalayan Crystal pink This futuristic spa located at the endSalts of Siam Paragon’s with Yogurt and furniture-store Honey Scrub + 60-minute Macadamia Oil Massage: heavy third floor delivers ancient healing techniques to burnt-out mall 1200 baht shoppers. Its sleek white storefront sells Pranali’s high-end Tucked away in a sidebody streetproducts close to – but it’s out back, in the seven Zen-opulent rooms, where the ismagic Phrom Phong, Urban Retreat precisely thatwaxing, – a quietfoot spot massage close to the happens. Very popular here is a quick facial, or bustle of Sukhumvit and the upscale body polish; but those with the timeEmporium should opt for onemall. of their shopping This more new, small spa isPranali popular with Thais and spun-out treatments. Of these, the smugly-titled Marvellous Herbal long-term foreign residents drawn by Compress should thrill multiple-style fans. very good services that don’t suffer After for discussing weak points and pressure being affordable. Spa menu is trim and tidy, withcoyly a focus on massage, preferences (and slipping out of

Pranali Marvellous Herbal Compress

signature treatment

your robe in the wafer-thin slips provided), your therapist gives a lavender-scented oil massage to your legs, arms and body using deep, long strokes. A series of equally thorough – and invigorating – hot herbal compresses follows (steamed flannel pouches containing 7 herbs). Throughout, the land of dreamy nod is never far off – until, that is, the final neck, shoulder and head massage. We requested strong upper-body work and, boy, we got it. Fleeting tension-twinges were elicited as she focussed in on (and eliminated) local knots of WHERE Pranali Wellness tension – but, sipping lemongrass tea afterwards, Spa, Unit 334, 3F Siam Paragon we were grateful for the resulting uplift. The Shopping Centre, 02-610-9596, scented oils also leave your skin nourished – and, www.pranaliwellness.com BTS if the “What’s that lovely smell?” comments are to Siam Open 10am – 9:30pm be trusted, you as a walking talking air freshener. (last booking 8pm) Price 60 สยามพารากอน mins B2,400 / 90 mins B3,200 108

health & wellness

bangkok 101

medical tourism

edical tourism is huge business in Thailand; a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of others – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international trade.

once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your private room, they have their own immigration department and a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your trip. You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications? Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul? And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa?

These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment. Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International 33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com

The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other. When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls.

FEATURED medical treatment

Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad,

Where to get your facial skin analysis n Aster Spring 2nd Fl, Siam Discovery Center | 02-658-0212-3 1st Fl, Life Center Zone at Q House, South Sathorn Rd | 02-677-7230-1 M Fl, The Esplanade, Rachadapisek Rd | 02-660-9364-7 n Chivavech Clinic 87/6-7 Moderntown Bld, 1st Fl, Ekamai Soi 3, Sukhumvit 63 | 02-382-0420-22 n Apex Beauty Clinic Sukhumvit 39 | 02-662-6018-9

bangkok 101

Aster Spring

Picture Perfect

When your skin is damaged from too much sun or you are looking for more than a rub-a-dub facial, a face mapping process can effectively assess your skin condition and address areas that may be causing specific problems. How does it work? The face is sectioned into 14 zones, each corresponding to a part of the body. For example, zone 2 deals with liver function, and problems here are indicators of something amiss with the liver (been boozing a lot at the beach lately, perhaps?) Many places can offer a facial skin analysis, such as Chivavech Clinic, where the staff can advise on laser and rejuvenation treatments. Apex Beauty Clinic at Siam Center also offers expert skin care advice and treatments with Derma Active products. For a more comprehensive Face Mapping treatment given in English, Aster Spring at Siam Discovery Center seems the best at going beyond the surface, and uses the much-touted Dermalogica face mapping technique. If you have skin problems that you just haven’t been able to solve, then this is the facial for you. Areas for improvement are identified, such as diet and hydration levels, and knowledgeable technicians offer advice on the positive impact on your skin, how to keep your skin in tip-top condition and what products to use on problem areas. Facial skin analysis takes between 5-30 minutes. Prices vary, but start at around B1,000. Face mapping can leave your skin glowing, and feeling refreshed and hydrated. Well worth it.

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H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

spas LEELA THAI HERBAL SPA (map C4) 43 Soi Narathiwat 7, Sathorn | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-679-3511-2 | www.leelathaispa.com | 10am – 9pm | $$$ For convenience, it’s hard to beat Leela – located a few blocks from the Chong Nonsi BTS, this modern city spa is a snap to find. Popular with Thais and visitors from Hong Kong, Leela offers wonderful treatments that are also good value – their spa packages are particularly well-priced. Try the excellent Leela Thai Aroma massage, which combines the long, smooth strokes of Swedish technique with Thai firmer-pressure moves. The Aroma Vie facial leaves clients refreshed and glowing – the cooling mask is a perfect way to beat the Bangkok heat. While the minimalist décor may not fully muffle surrounding street noise, in the hands of Leela’s rigorously trained technicians, the only thing that will wake you from your reverie is the sound of your own snoring.

ลีลาไท นราธิวาส ซ.7 ถ.สาทร

Leela Thai

typical SPA cost range

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted 110

Tria

TRIA INTEGRATIVE WELLNESS (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd | 02-660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness.com | 10am – 8pm | $$$ This top-notch spa connected to Piyavate Hospital offers a full-on “integrative” approach – a team of specialists from physicians to personal trainers, to bodywork therapists – restaurants offering healthy spa facilities and treatments, and even enough function space for group of 200. Bangkok has a few “medical spas” offering such approaches to Western-medicine and traditional therapies, but Tria is truly one of the best. Opt for extensive programs devoted to anti-aging, prenatal care, holistic detoxification, or even simpler aesthetic treatments, and you’ll get access to a gorgeous spa pool, an infrared sauna, a steam room, and Swiss and Vichy showers. Treatments range from massage to Ayurvedic treatments and Chinese Chi Nei Tsang therapy sessions. Our simple scrub and wrap was a delight – attentive, fully relaxing , and leaving us with glowing results – but we’d recommend springing for some of the more unusual and difficult-to find treatments, and leave yourself enough time to take advantage of the first-rate facilities.

ศูนย์สุขภาพองค์รวมตรัยยา ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังรพ.ปิยะเวท)

Being Spa BEING SPA (map E4) 88 Sukhumvit 51 | 02-662-6171 | www.beingspa.com | 10 am-10pm | $$$ A serene courtyard pond leads the way into one of the Sukhumvit area’s best neighbourhood day spas. This thoughtfully converted, two-storey house accommodates 12 private treatment chambers fashioned with rustic wood floors and tasteful ethnic décor, as well as rooms with shower beds, needle jets and a floral bath. Being’s host of revitalising treatments range from 30 minute body scrubs (using everything from coffee beans and seaweed to Thai herbs and pepper) to more comprehensive, 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hour spa packages combining medleys of massages, baths, facials, body wraps and scrubs. Recommended is their signature fusion massage, the Being Ultimate Body Massage (1900 baht), a 90 minute rubdown blending aroma therapy oil massage with stretching and bending elements of traditional, medium pressure Thai massage.

บีอิ้งสปา สุขุมวิท 51

health & wellness

bangkok 101

S Medical Spa

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES

Tria

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-theart equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 |www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

bangkok 101

S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www. smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.

เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www. rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

Life Center (map C4) No. 1 South Sathorn Rd,Tungmahamek, Sathorn | MRT Lumpini | 02-677-7177 | www.lifecenterthailand.com Being healthy has never been more easy or glam than here at Asia’s first “healthstyle” mall. Hit the second zone for beauty and cosmetics, the third for healthcare & spa – cutting-edge medical advancements here include a Center for Assisted Reproduction & Embryology and a Spine Clinic – and the fourth for the fitness zone.

ไลฟ์ เซ็นเตอร์ ถ.สาธรใต้

health & wellness

The Pilates Studio

111

Sports

Muay Thai

sports

SPECTATOR SPORTS MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing or Muay Thai is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadiums. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past Kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safety-conscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three fiveminute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF and the blows are hard hitting and real. 112

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.37) on any given Sunday and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums. The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Head to any park in the city around 5pm-6pm, and you’ll be able to spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly following the instructions of an enthusiastic coach to blaring disco dance songs. The spor ts

THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pm-midnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Chatuchak Park. Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in! bangkok 101

Major Bowl

ACTIVE SPORTS BADMINTON Racquet Club (map D4) Sukhumvit 49/9 | 02-714-7200 Yen Akat Court (map C4) Soi Yen Akat | 02-249-6935-6 A family favourite in Thailand is badminton which is played by both young and old. A big reason for it being popular is the relative ease of setting up a game. All you need is a racquet, a shuttlecock, someone to watch out for cars, and you’re ready to go. It’s often played in neighbourhoods, in front of houses, whether hitting over fences or just simply on the street. Many housing estates will have courts available for rent or even free of charge. Some centrally located courts include the youth centre in Lumphini Park, Racquet Club and Yen Akat Court. BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof-the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lo, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK. CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089-895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com | am 6pm (Mon-Fri), 10am-3pm (Sat) | V M This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 11 years, and it offers extra bangkok 101

ordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kret and along atmospheric, rural canals in Bangkok’s undiscovered countryside (22 - 40kms, US$50US$55). They start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailor-made itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenaline-parched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand and its neighbours. ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Rachadapisek Rd, Esplanade 4th Fl | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more like a nightclub on ice. Popular among

Spiceroads

spor ts

youngsters, its 682 square metres of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B700-1500 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Center (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with Thai ace Paradorn Srichaphan, who became the first Asian player to achieve a top ten ranking just a couple of years ago, bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels will offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people a little, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 113

Courses&Ser vices

courses

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้

Blue Elephant

COOKING CLASSES Benjarong Royal Thai Cuisine Restaurant The Dusit Thani | 946 Rama IV Rd | 02200-9000 ext. 2699 | www.dusit.com Want to learn how to cook like a top Thai chef at one of the most elegant restaurants in town? Here’s your chance: The Benjarong Royal Thai Restaurant at the luxurious Dusit Thani Hotel is holding half-day cooking classes Monday through Friday from 2pm to 5pm. The course is run by Benjarong’s head chef himself, Surasak Kongsawat, who has racked up dozens of prestigious culinary awards and medals over his 18-year career in the kitchen. He is also an expert fruit and vegetable carver and you will have the option of learning how to carve fruit along with preparing three exceptional Thai dishes, or choose to learn a fourth recipe if carving doesn’t interest you. Both options include commemorative photos and course completion certificates. Courses are B3,000net pp or B4,200net if you’d like your very own Dusit Cookbook as well. The price includes a 5-course set dinner at the restaurant.

เบญจรงค์ รร. ดุสติ ธานี ถ. พระราม 4

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 114

(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02711-5270-3 | www.chivasomacademy. com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. The high but justified prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses available in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล อะคาเดมี

โมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well. Perfect for a serious, but short stint into Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

The Father Ray Foundation In Pattaya, Thailand’s seamiest seaside city, there is an organisation looking after 850 underprivileged young people at various schools. Some are disabled, some blind, some street kids, but all are united by their being cared for under the auspices of the Father Ray Foundation. For those giving it that’s no small undertaking. “400 kilos of rice barely sees us through one day,” says Tom Vincent, a longserving activist at the charity and publisher of the biography about its late American founder, Father Ray Brennan. And only compounding the challenge is the global economic slowdown. “Income is down,” Vincent tells us. But they’re not resting on their laurels. To help broaden awareness and bridge the shortfall, the Father Ray Foundation has produced a DVD and enlisted two wellknown supporters, former CNN Bangkok bureau chief Tom Mintier and former Miss Thai World Helen Prathumrat

bangkok 101

Berger, to co-host. In it, Father Ray’s fascinating life story is touched on (read In the Name of the Boss Upstairs, by Jerry Hopkins, for the unabridged version). However, most of this affecting 29-minute DVD – available for free on request – highlights his legacy: the sterling work the Father Ray Foundation does at its various schools day in, day out; from equipping handicapped students with the vocational skills they need to find jobs, to teaching blind children how to read brail and gain as much independence as possible. For this month’s Making Merit we ask you not to make a donation off the cuff, but to order a free copy by emailing vincentfoundation@yahoo.com. Watch it and then make up your own mind. If then you’d like to contribute or become a sponsor, no matter how small the amount, log onto www.fr-ray.org or use the slip enclosed with each DVD.

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Business

business In Bangkok on business? Rest assured it brings a lot to the table. Convention centres, ritzy hotels, world-class wine-and-dine spots... it’s little wonder it’s a regional hub for MICE (Meetings and Incentives, Conferences and Exhibitions), especially when you factor in the myriad down-time attractions. Here we dig up all the basics so that you don’t have to. Business Travellers Top on the list after you’ve touched down is, of course, a hotel.There are lots to choose from, in every location, but those that tick every business-traveller box include The Conrad, Sofitel Silom, Westin Grande and Sheraton Grande. Bangkok’s traffic has a justifiably miserable reputation, but having a car at your disposal can be handy. Try Limousine Thailand (www. limousinethailand.com). And if your hotel room isn’t cutting it as a makeshift office, then contact temporary office providers Regus (www.regus.co.th) or Servcorp (www.servcorp.net).

Business spotlight

There’s rarely a quiet moment on the local trade fair scene. For a rundown, see www.thaitradefair.com. Or perhaps you’re considering staging your company’s big meet or team get-away here? If so, talk to the Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (www.tceb.or.th). They say it’s who you know – not what you know. To get your face out there, join one of the networking events hosted by Bangkok Young Professionals (www.mobyelite.com/byp) or others. If you’re short on business cards – and you will be after a night at the aforementioned – try one of the many one-stopshops at MBK shopping mall. It’s also worth reading up on Thailand’s face-saving and, often quirky, business culture. Try Working with the Thais: A Guide to Managing in Thailand by Henry Holmes and Suchada Tangtongtavy (White Lotus, B495). Finally, note that any foreigner working, or doing business here, must have a non-immigrant B visa and a work permit. If your company hasn’t arranged both, go to www.immigration.go.th and find out what you need. Or contact a business solutions provider like Sunbelt Asia – they’ll do all the paperwork so that you don’t have to. Starting Up Frequently voted one of the world’s best cities, it’s no surprise that so many look to set up shop in Bangkok. However, bear in mind that although Thailand opened it doors wide to foreign investment after the Asian Financial Crisis of 1997, it can still be a tricky place to establish a business. The best advice is to find local experts to help you clear the regulatory hurdles. Business solutions provider Sunbelt Asia (www.sunbeltasia.com) offers everything from upfront legal advice to business brokerage and serviced offices. Similarly, Bangkok Base (www.bangkokbase.com) is a 360° provider of business support. Chambers of commerce can also offer advice and assistance in finding partners. There are also a few books on the market. One of the best is Philip Wylie’s How to Establish a Successful Business in Thailand. In it you will find the essentials on the minutiae of business in Thailand, from negotiating baffling bureaucracy and legal peculiarities to cultural codes and social etiquette.

The P&L CLUB

Forget work for a second. A successful businessman should also look the part and know how to unwind – in style. To achieve these noble ends Bangkokians now have The P&L Club: a small but mega-elegant gentlemen’s club, in the Conrad hotel’s lobby, where you can come and get a suave Cary Grant haircut before your meeting, and enjoy a well-earned puff on Havana’s finest afterwards. And in members-only privacy. Sit back in the Sweeney Todd-style leather chairs (from Japan of all places) and let the veteran 75-year-old barber give you the best hot towel shave you ever had. Take your pick from the single malt whisky bar (all from Scotland, Where Conrad Bangkok GF, All naturally). And while on your way to a leather chair in the Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road, wood-encased tasting room, stop by the Cohiba Humidor and 02-685-3898 Open Mon – Thu pick up a Montecristo, Cohiba or some other chunky Cuban 10am-10pm, Fri – Sat 10am-11pm, cigar.Yes, it’s all very 1960s James Bond spy novel, isn’t it? Sun noon-6pm Want in? If you do, there are three membership tiers available: a B20k membership gives you that amount on credit; spend B50k and you’re awarded an extra B5k; B100,000 an extra B20k. Members are allowed to bring guests (women, despite the decidedly masculine overtones, are welcome); and though there are opening hours, we’re told you can stay as late as you like.

รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

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business

bangkok 101

real estate

Buying Property Many visitors decide they want to buy property in Bangkok: some because they fall in love with the city and all its eclectic idiosyncrasies; others because they jet in and out of the city on business and want more than a hotel room can offer. Whatever the reasons, buyers can find a wide range of accommodation at very favourable prices. From simple US$18,000 studio apartments to lavish million-dollar condos, there are options to suit most budgets. Non-Thai citizens looking to acquire property in the country will most probably be looking to purchase apartments rather than houses; as the law currently stands, foreigners are permitted to buy condos providing at least 51% of the building’s units are Thai-owned. Land (and therefore houses) is a different matter. Technically foreigners are not allowed to own land in Thailand, though if you are a foreigner married to a Thai citizen, then it is quite straightforward to draw everything up in your partner’s name. bangkok 101

Another method to acquire land is through a loan/lease agreement, whereby you loan money to a Thai citizen under a contract specifying they must use it to buy a property. Your Thai business partner will then buy the property and legally own the land. Simply put, you then get your lawyer to draw up an agreement giving you – the lender – a leasehold agreement on the property. However you decide to approach the acquisition of property, be sure to shop around and proceed with caution. Research the developers’ track record, the location, the average rate of return, and the likelihood of a super-skyscraper popping up and blocking that achingly beautiful view of the Chao Phraya River. Also, be aware that tales of relationships suddenly souring once deeds are signed are all too common. The best advice is to exercise common sense and find local experts you can trust. International brokerage firm Sunbelt Asia (www.property.th.com) has plenty of listings and English-speaking consultants on hand, while Property Report magazine (www.property-report.com) will give you a good overview of the whole scene. business

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Photo courtesy of Raimon Land

The River

Reference

survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words. Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement). The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then. Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you? I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

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sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná kho˘ thôt khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669 LOST CREDIT CARD CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) MasterCard 02-260-8572 Visa 02-273-1199 or 02-273-7449 MEDICAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHONE SERVICES Bangkok Directory Inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 International Long Distance 100 Overseas Subscribers Call 001 TOURISM OFFICES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist Information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-282- 9773, 02-2505500 | daily 8:30am- 4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02- 250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www. bangkoktourist.com IMMIGRATION DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am- 4pm EMBASSIES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02344-6300 | www.austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place 15F, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.bangkokinternational.gc.ca bangkok 101

contacts SKYTRAIN/SUBWAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-612-2444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BUS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mor Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai)

Surfing BKK There’s a million websites out there, all desperate for a good quick click – but these are the only ones we would take home to meet our mum. n www.1stopbangkok.com Everything you wanted to know about Bangkok but were afraid to ask. n www.thaivisa.com General, boring, immigration type stuff and an entertaining messageboard. n www.bangkokartmap.com Find out where the pretty pictures and free wine’s at. n www.paknamweb.com Blogs, blogs and more blogs. Everything from the Thai lottery to sizzling streetfood. n www.movieseer.com Popcorn? Check. Emergency sweater? Check. Showtimes? Check here! MRT

TRAIN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 reference

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Reference

getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options.

ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con equipped taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the public taxi queue at the street level outside the terminal, an additional B50 is added to the metered fare.

groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-23 Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers.

RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. For more information: www.bts.co.th

MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their orange vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up

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Tuk-Tuk

to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B15 to B39. For more information: www.bangkokmetro.co.th RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.24) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of intercity waterways offers a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance. Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3. CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B8 to B18. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. bangkok 101