Bangkok 101 - April 2010 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

april 2010 100 baht

r ef vhi vi sa lk i n g d o m t h r o u g h rtihv e res yi de es o

RIVERSIDE REVIVAL 1 on 1: sretsis

Exploring Chachoengsao’s refreshing old markets

Metrobeat: THE Water Library Now in Bangkok: Songkran Very Thai: inhalers In the Neighbourhood: rattanakosin exhibition hall Over the Border: Kuala Lumpur Making Merit: wat pra baht num nam phu

april 2010

HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

publisher’s

letter

april 2010

As April – the zenith of the Thai summer – turns our capital sauna like, Bangkok 101 endeavours to bring a little reading refreshment into your life. Not that you’ll need much refreshment if you’re here from April 1315, as merely venturing outdoors during these dates is an open invitation for a stranger to spray you top-to-toe with a Super Soaker. What’s going on, you may wonder? Have the lunatics escaped the asylum? Or is this the latest form of political dissent? No silly, it’s Songkran, or Thai New Year – and there’s no option but to join in or get out the country. Head to our Now in Bangkok section for Songkran tips and the meaning behind the madness; and Upcountry Festivals to track down more serene/less corporate Songkran celebrations nationwide. The month’s photoessay brings us the work of a semi-pro Thai snapper: Riverside Revival, a stirring introduction to two old riverside markets/living museums in Chachoengsao province that both out-charm the tourist-infested floating markets. Elsewhere, In the Neighbourhood profiles the city’s latest ‘Discovery’ museum opening, the Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall; while in Upcountry Escape we shoot down south to Koh Phangan, home of the monthly Full Moon bacchanal and its roaring hordes of neon painted backpacker ravers. Don’t expect pointers on where to find the boshing techno music though – we show you the island’s other, quieter side. Klong Suan Market With this issue we proudly welcome yet another book serialisation into the fold: Chronicle of Thailand. Produced by the Bangkok Post and Editions Didier Millet, this breezeblock-sized tome recounts the Kingdom’s headlines since 1946, the year His Majesty came to the throne. Each month we’ll bring you one, from among the thousands, that sheds light on this month in history, beginning with James Bond and his tri-nippled nemesis Scaramanga’s stay on a southern Thai island back in April ‘74. Our monthly 1 on 1 interview is, for the first time ever, a 3 on 1. We sit down with the sisters that together have built Sretsis into a formidable Thai fashion house with fans in hip and high places. And we bring you much more of what we love about the Big Mango, including new bars, restaurants and shopping venues, a foodie guide to Sam Yan, and a Chatuchak Weekend Market map outlining what’s sold in each section. ters So, plenty to keep you tied-up this April there. Don’t forget k 101 ca d, Bangko an what they se ia your Bangkok 101-sized baggie if you’re hoofing it around the b n u ent and r more th er Independ rs who yearn fo s. It brings togeth , city. And remember, when you do get drenched (and it is a lle k rs e o te v o a ri b tr ents, w d guide case of when, not if) just keep telling yourself, “It’s purifying, to savvy city resid The result hty, date f ig o e o w h in . W find ho’s tators it’s purifying, it’s purifying…” travel ritative W commen

What i1s01? Bangkok

an autho ers and cultural f monthly ff the hybrid o ph o photogra ct and intelligent kes you on and pa ys the at ta lo th p e m in e is a com z a g 01 d city ma track. Bangkok 1 no smut and no guide an rist fluff, u o to n rn h ought. it o well-w not be b dards, w orial stan orial content can ur readers, it d e st e no edit high als. Our e focus o adver tori usly maintain th to ensure ro is We rigo nd our mission as much a great city . is th y jo in it they en ve living as we lo

Sawasdee Pii Mai.

Mason Florence Publisher

contributors Doungjun Roongruang

A full-time staff member at the United Nations, Doungjun (Moon) Roongruang has a passion for environmental, travel, wedding and journalism photography and has seen his work published in a wide range of print and electronic media. Notably, he’s been showcased in UN publications, and also exhibited in the PIXPRO’S Grand Exhibition 2008. Doungjun has a knack for capturing the candid, natural and spontaneous emotion of his human subjects.View his portfolio at http://onemoon.multiply.com

Philip CornwelSmith

Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness: Thailand and international magazines.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Author Brian Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s new wave of textiles and furniture in his recent coffee table volume Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and current affairs for such publications as New York Times, Art AsiaPacific and Forbes. A former resident of New York City and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

Tom Mintier

From covering the Vietnam War as an army photographer to heading up CNN bureaus in London and Bangkok, Tom Mintier is one of the most recognised and respected media figures in Thailand today. An Emmy award-winning television news journalist, Tom covered many events live for CNN, including the 1989 student uprising in Tiananmen Square and the fall of the Berlin Wall. Currently a consultant at AMATA Corp and professor at Thammasat University in Bangkok, Tom continues to train local journalists.

Steven Pettifor

British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia.com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Graphic Director Yuthtaya Sangnak Art Designer Narong Srisaiya Editorial Assistant Piyakwan Mettaprasert Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Ashley Simcox, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,TAT Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Simon Hughes Account Executives Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Jurairat Wannaprom Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com Printed by Allied Printers T: 02-240-3700

© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2009. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents 10

april 2010

snapshots

8 9 10 11 12 14 15 16 17

101 picks 1 on 1: sretsis events calendar now in bangkok metro beat history chronicle of thailand customs very thai: inhalers

sightseeing

18 19 20 22 24 26 28 29 31 32 33 36 36 38 40 42

orientation riverside route101: rattanakosin route101: chinatown route101: sukhumvit route101: pathumwan siam and pratunam historic buildings temples kids in the city & shrines musuems the great outdoors in the neighbourhood: rattanakosin exhibition hall day tripping upcountry festivals upcountry escape: koh phangan over the border: kuala kumpur

46 36

arts 44 45 46 54 55 56 57 on the cover: a worker at one of Ban Mai marketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s old-style coffee shops takes a well-earnt rest.

contemporary art exhibitions photo feature: riverside revival performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening

table of

contents

april 2010

food & drinks 58 59 60 61 62 63 66 68 72 73 74 75 76 77 78

dining in bangkok meal deals thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants chic bangkok neighbourhood nosh: sam yan dim-sum brunching tea late dining sweet treats all you can eat wine

sports

112 spectator sports 113 active sports

couses & services 114 115

business 116 business 117 real estate

nightlife 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96

cooking, meditation & thai massage, courses making merit: wat pra baht num nam phu

reference 118 survival thai 119 contacts 120 getting around

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars bars jazz clubs live music nightlife areas pub crawling

shopping 98 99 101 102 103 104 105

unique boutique stuff bangkok design mall crawl chatuchak market markets sidewalks

108

accommodation 106 boutique bangkok

health & wellness 108 109 110 111

106

body & beauty spas wellness centres medical tourism

115

Snapshots

101 picks

Before dashing off to a tropical island or the mountains, scratch beneath the city’s gritty surface to discover gems that’ll keep you here longer. We’ve compiled our Bangkok favourites here.

one night in bangkok

shopping

thai style

food heaven

open air

■ Chatuchak A huge, sprawling village of a market, selling everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.103).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.115).

■ Beautiful Brunches L a ze a r o u n d w i t h friends, newspapers for those great late breakfasts (p. 73).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a big zoo & Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous greener y (p.28).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day. Party all night. Never grow old. It’s fun to be a Bangkokian (pp.80-96).

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar A pleasant evening market with arts, crafts and textiles. And a massive beer garden (p.104).

■ Thai Massage A cracking good time – though not for the faint hearted (p.108).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Get thee to a food court (p.69).

■ On the River Take an express boat up to Nonthaburi or explore the canal communities of Thonburi (p.19).

■ Cabarets Wow, she is beautiful. Such a graceful dancer. And what a figure! Eh… what do you mean “he”? (p.83).

■ Siam Square All the young dudes head to this cradle of cool for the latest flicks and threads (p.102).

■ Thai Cooking Classes Learn to pound a proper paste like a pro (p.114).

■ Riverside Dining The Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome backdrop.And there are plenty of good restaurant options (p.21).

■ Cycling Tour Maybe not an obvious choice, but these tours are surprisingly popular (p.113).

■ High Attitude Bars Slinky cocktails at eight miles high. Not cheap, but well worth it (p.84).

■ Patpong A thin strip in the CBD jam-packed with market stalls and, er, go-go bars (p.105).

■ Thai Boxing The brutal, quintessentially Thai form of kickboxing (p.112).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of special offers to eat at some of the city’s best restaurants (p.59).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the museum park of Muang Boran, and see Thailand in miniature! (p.36).

■ Dining Cruises Stuff your face as you wind your way along the Chao Phraya (p.59).

■ Panthip Plaza The ultimate computer-geek mecca. If you can’t find it here you just haven’t looked hard enough (p.102).

■ TCDC Cool, creative learning space for Thai designers (p.55).

■ Street Food Pull up a plastic stool and get ready to point and shoot (p.62).

■ Lumpini Park A huge green space in the heart of the city. Perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the ponds (p.33).

■ Carnivalesque Get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11 (pp.94-95).

■ Paragon & CentralWorld Two of the swishest mega-malls you’re ever likely to encounter. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be the third floor (p.102).

■ Jim Thompson House & Silk Shop This former spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade then disappeared. Nice house though (p.28).

■ Affordable Gourmet Food If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, Bangkok needn’t break the bank (p.63).

■ Flower Market Close your eyes and inhale deeply. 24-hour marigold madness. (p.104)

■ Theatre TraditionalThai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.56)

snapshots

bangkok 101

1 on 1 Sretsis are one of the few Bangkok-based fashion labels to go ‘inter’ or international, their girly, vintage-inspired threads worn by celebs and hyped by magazines the world over. Read the name backwards and you’ll see it’s a sister act: New York’s Parsons School of Design grad Pim Sukhahutas designs, while Kly does the marketing and Matina the jewellery. We met with them a few days before the launch of their latest collection, Make My Heart Melt, to talk local fashion, shopping and escapes. For more on their label: www.sretsis.com

Sretsis Being Bangkok girls, how does the city influence and inform your work? Pim: In some ways the city is mellow and has a lot of contrasts, both elements you will find in my work. Do Thai styles and fabrics inspire Sretis? Pim: I’m a sucker for all kinds of things old. Vintage clothes, disappearing craftsmanship, or anything with a sense of history or heritage, I all find very interesting and inspiring. Where should our readers head for the latest threads? Pim: This might sound too mainstream but Siam Paragon does have everything to offer, from local to international brands. On a scale of 1 to 10 how ‘hot’ is the Thai fashion industry right now? Pim: I’d maybe give it a 7.5, as we have a lot of emerging talent and bangkok 101

there’s been a drastic increase in the numbers of fashion enthusiasts. Making all these survive in the longrun is what we still need to work on. Quite a few Thai labels now make international waves. Yourselves excluded which are the ones to watch? Pim: Boyy Bag (www.boyybag. com) has been lifting the standard of Thai fashion accessories in the international scene. What does the government need to do to improve the Thai fashion industry’s standing? Pim: Set a precise budget and a continuous plan for fashion projects, and put an expert who understands the nature of the fashion industry both locally and in internationally in charge. Is Bangkok a good base for fashion? Pim: It’s a good base for production though it’s not the best for raw materials. As for design I believe you snapshots

can do it anywhere; it’s a matter of your own imagination and creativity. Which of Bangkok’s markets are the best for up-and-coming designers? Matina: Siam Center. And vintage? Matina: Chatuchak Weekend Market and Khao San Road. After a long day of sticking pins in mannequins, where do you go to relax? Kly: Happy Monday for good tunes and yummy comfort food; Eat Me, off Convent Road, for a hot date, dinner, and cocktails; Aqua at the Four Seasons Hotel for a late night snack, good drinks and to mingle with friends; and new bar Hyde and Seek for good, strong cocktails that will keep you up long into the night! Minibar Royale, our own restaurant, is a good spot for an easy Sunday brunch and sparkling cocktails. Where do you head to escape Bangkok? Kly: The Barai at the Hyatt Regency Hua-Hin, and the Aleenta Resort & Spa in Pranburi. 9

Snapshots

april calender Until Sun 25 Apr: Japanese Bamboo: Tracing the Legend of Beppu Craftsmanship TCDC, 6th Fl. The Emporium Shopping Complex | 02-664-8448 | www.tcdc.or.th | free See Metrobeat ‘Art’

Wed 7: Lamb of God Live in Bangkok 2010 Mahisorn Hall, SCB Park Ratchadapisek Rd. | 02262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B1,200 – B2,500

See Metrobeat ‘Pop & Rock’ Tue 13 – Thu 15: Songkran Festival Nationwide | www.songkran.net

See ‘Now in Bangkok’

Thu 22: DJ Zinc & Mc Dynamite Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Tue 30 – Mon 5 May: Architect’ 10 Impact Muang Thong Thani | 02-717-2477 | www.architectexpo.com | free

Until Tue 6: 30th Bangkok International Motor Show 2010 BITEC Bangna | 02-7493939 | www.grandprixgroup.com See Metrobeat ‘Exhibition’

Until Tue 6: Bangkok International Book Fair QSNCC | 02-229-3000 | www.qsncc.co.th | Free See Metrobeat ‘Exhibition’

Thu 1 – Sun 4: Fame Central World | 02-2645555 | www.centralworld.co.th See Metrobeat ‘Fashion’

Fri 2: Bangkok Opera Italian Month: Rossini’s Petite Messe Solennelle Thailand Cultural Center, Huay Kwang Rd. |02262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com |B200 – 800

See Metrobeat ‘Classical’ Sat 3 – Sun 4: Bangkok International Fashion Fair & Bangkok International Leather Fair 2010 Impact Muang Thong Thani | 02-504-5050 | www.biffandbil.com | Free See Metrobeat ‘Fashion’

Thu 15 – July: Akasha CM2, Novotel Siam Square | 02-209-8888 | www.cm2bkk.com

See Metrobeat ‘Pop & Rock’

Thu 22 – Sun 25: Bangkok International Fashion Week Parc Paragon, Siam Paragon Shopping Mall |

Fri 9: Jessica Garcia Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’ Thu 15: The Freestylers

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

Fri 9 – Sun 11: SK2010 Songkran Bangkok : SK4 Zen World & Fallabella Rajadamri Rd. | 02-8335555 | www.totalreservation. com | B4,200 – 5,200

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Tue 20 – Sun 25: Bangkok International Gift Fair

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

BITEC Bangna |02-5120093 – 104 | www.bigandbih.com | free

Sat 24 – Sun 2 May: Furniture Grand Sale

Wed 28 – Sun 2 May: Thailand Health & Wellness

QSNCC | 02-719-0408 | www.qsncc.co.th | free

Impact Muang Thong Thani | 02-722-7479, 081-912-1840, 084702-1632 | www. thailand healthandwell ness.com/ | free

See Metrobeat ‘Fashion’

See Metrobeat ‘Exhibition’

snapshots

Sat 10: Bangkok’s Warehouse Project Ratchadamnoen Klang Road | www.club-culturebkk.com Club Culture christens its new, old city warehouse venue with a pre-Songkran, technotrance splashdown.

Tue 20 – Sun 25: Bangkok International Houseware Fair 2010 BITEC Bangna |02-5120093 – 104 | www.bigandbih.com | free

See Metrobeat ‘Exhibition’

Tue 27: BSO-Silk Road Ensemble with YO-YO MA Great Artists of The World 2010 Thailand Cultural Center, Huay Kwang Rd. |02262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com |B1,000 – 5,000

See Metrobeat ‘Classical’

Trade Fairs Performance Live Music Shopping Festivals/Events Food & Drink exhibition Sport Nightlife

bangkok 101

now in bangkok

Songkran Tips

Songkr an

n Whether in grubby shorts or

If you thought the red shirt protestors did a good job of bringing the capital to a grinding halt, just you wait until Songkran. From April 13-15 – the Thai New Year – our usually gleefully bustling capital will come to a near standstill as everyone downs tools for a three-day national holiday and millions head back to their home cities, towns and villages. As you’ll discover the instant you step outdoors, water is at the heart of Songkran. The city goes water wild. Tourist hotspots throng with people, dripping wet, dousing everybody in their reach with icy water and chalk powder. The reason? Aside from providing relief from the scorching April sun, len nam (playing with water) symbolizes. It’s a way of washing away the preceding solar year’s sins and bad luck in preparation for the new one. It also marks the beginning of a new rice farming cycle. Remember that when a stranger slings a bucket of ice-cubes down your undercrackers! Not that it’s all water sloshing. Away from the tourist areas a gentler, more cerebral Songkran practiced by Thais who rue the boozing and overcommercialisation survives. Days for them are spent making merit in wats (temples), offering food to monks and pouring jasmine-scented water, to show respect, over the hands of elders. Water is also splashed over revered Buddha images and sand carried to temple grounds to replace dirt carried away on worshippers’ feet during the preceding year. For traditional (and highly photogenic) rituals of this sort, head to Sanam Luang, near the Grand Palace. Here, the sacred Phra Buddha Sihin Buddha image will be bathed after it has been escorted through the streets of Rattanakosin in a colourful procession. Several Miss Songkran beauty contests are also held in the city. Check out www.songkran.net for a complete listing of activities. Assuming you want to dip your toe in the all-out aquatic frenzy (and what tourist doesn’t?) the hotspots are backpacker haven Khao San Road and the business/party district Silom. Both become raucous 24/7 water-sloshing zones, with buckets of water flying, double-barreled water pistols unleashing, and pickup trucks loaded with water barrels serving as reinforcements at both ends of each street. Smaller scale parties also go on in Bangkok’s neighbourhoods and, for old-timers like ourselves, are often more fun. bangkok 101

snapshots

a business suit, nobody escapes the water, so either go with it or hibernate in your home or hotel. n Frustration will get you nowhere. Instead: get dressed to get wet, invest in a kick-ass water pistol, smile and say sawadee pii mai (Happy New Year!) a lot. n Avoid travelling for the duration. Buses, trains and planes are packed and road deaths caused by irresponsible/drunk revellers number in the hundreds. Then there’s your arrival to worry about: armed or not, foreigners are always fair game! n When venturing out into the war zones, make sure you store your cell phone and camera away in Ziploc bags. n For more ceremony, less carnage, consider spending Songkran upcountry. Phra Phadaeng, just across the river in Samut Prakan Province, and the provincial town of Nakhon Pathom are two options near Bangkok. See p.41 for more.

Snapshots

metro beat

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings, by Howard Richardson.

festivals

rock & pop

The streets will be wet and wild during Songkran, from April 13-15. Many people will see in the Thai New Year the traditional way, with merit making and a gentle splashing of water at local temples. Other will go for the drenching-withwater-cannon approach, particularly around Khao San Road and Silom Road (see Now in Bangkok for more).

nightlife Japan’s former DMC World Champion DJ Kentaro takes his second bow on April 8, kicking of another month of international sounds at Bed Supperclub (02651-3537). Jesse Garcia gets here on the 9th and UK dance act The Freestylers fuse Electro, Breakbeat, Techno, and Dub on the 15th. On April 22, DJ Zinc, hailed for his remix of the Fugee’s ‘Ready or Not’ collaborates with MC Dynamite. Circuit’s SK4 party brings three hot international acts to three Bangkok venues for a Songkran splashout this month. April 9 sees DJ Roland Belmares (US) at Heaven on ZEN; April 10 is DJ Ralphi Rosario (US) at ZEN Event Gallery; and April 11 is DJ Tye (US) at Fallabella. All run from 10pm till late. Tickets (from B2,900) are available at Total Reservation (02-833-5555).

art The Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) (02-664-8448) has an exhibition, Japanese Bamboo: Tracing the Legend of Beppu, that examines the bamboo handicrafts made in Beppu in western Japan, which have become collectable artworks. The exhibit lasts until April 25, and includes a sideshow, Global Bamboo, which explains the role of the plant in industrial design and daily life. Free Admission. 12

All scarabs and skulls, American Heavy Metal band Lamb of God bring tracks from their latest album Wrath to Mahisorn Hall, in SCB Park on April 7. Tickets are priced from B1,200, standing only, and are available from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262 3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). Check out the band at www.lamb-of-god.com. The Novotel Bangkok (02209-8888) installs black bustier rock in its basement nightclub Concept CM2, when Akasha arrive for a residency from April 15. Described as “five sexy and sizzling vocalists” the Canadians Chelsy, Kathy, Izabelle, Jessica and Olivia and their band play pop, r&b, hip hop and rock ’n’ roll, nightly except Thursdays.

classical The highlights of the concerts and workshops in Bangkok Opera’s Italian Month are Rossini’s Petite Messe Solennelle, conducted by Somtow Sucharitkul on April 2, and an Italian Gala, featuring the music of Verdi, Puccini, Mascagni and Martucci, with guest conductor Giuseppe Monopoli, on April 20. Both are performed by the Siam Philharmonic Orchestra at the Thailand Cultural Centre (02-247-0028), starting at 7.30pm. The full programme is at www.bangkokopera.com. The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra continues its Great Artists of the World programme by inviting The Silk Road Ensemble and its director, the internationally acclaimed cellist Yo-Yo Ma. The Silk Road Project is a collective of instrumentalists and singers, composers, storytellers and visual artists who come particularly from countries on the traditional Silk Road trading routes, from China through India to the Middle East and the Mediterranean. This fusion of different ethnic art forms will play at the Thailand Cultural Centre (02-247-0028) on April 27. Get tickets from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262 3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com).

snapshots

bangkok 101

exhibitions

Food & drink

The traffic will be hell getting to the 30th Bangkok International Motor Show 2010, which exhibits the latest cars, bikes, accessories and concept cars at BITEC (02-749-3939) until April 6. www.grandprixgroup. com has all the specs. The Bangkok International Book Fair encourages readers to visit Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (02-229-3000) until April 6, with some 900 booths of local and international publishers, from countries as diverse as China, Brunei, Iran and the US. Free entry. There should be a raft of birthday ideas at the Bangkok International Gift Fair, which runs at BITEC (02-749-3939) from April 20-25 (public days are 24th and 25th). The Bangkok International Houseware Fair shares the venue, on the same dates. Products at the two events will include toys, games, decor and regional handicrafts. See www.thaitradefair.com for more information.

fashion Hot models in brand name designer clothes should draw the crowds to Central World (02-264-5555) from April 1- 4, for the summer fashion show Fame. There will be slightly less razzle we guess at Bangkok International Fashion Fair & Bangkok International Leather Fair 2010, with seminars on business and matching and brand preference. But there will be catwalks, too. Public days are April 3-4, at Impact Arena (02504-5050). See www. biffandbil.com for details. Local fashion label Issue will cause a splash with its underwater catwalk at Siam Ocean World during this year’s Bangkok International Fashion Week at Siam Paragon from April 22-25. Among other highlights will be New York designer Koi Suwannagate’s first Thailand show, a first appearance for Chinese brand JNBY and a raft of top local brands like Fly Now. For more information call 02-610-8000. bangkok 101

The Water Library

Walking through this mall of garish fast food shops, it’s something of a shock to come across The Water Library. Its grand domed ceiling of wooden spokes evokes a medieval cathedral; its towering display of glass bottles a Victorian apothecary. Singaporean chef Haikal Johari brings the chemistry of Japanese ingredients and modern cooking methods like sous vide to bear on an interesting contemporary international menu. Actually, the a la carte will soon be a thing of the past, as his tasting menus have become so popular, they will now be his single modus operandi. Choose which WHERE Unit 217, Floor 2, price range you want, Chamchuri Square, Payathai and Haikal will create Rd, 02-160-5188, MRT Sam a multi course dinner Yan www.mywaterlibrary. on the spot using the com.OPEN Daily 11amseasonal produce he 10pm PRICE $$$-$$$$ has in stock. It could be paté de foie gras with pear panacotta topped with crumblings of five spice biscuit and smoked with jasmine tea; or a beautifully cooked Chilean seabass in mushroom-bacon ragout with a heady ponzu-white truffle emulsion. There are some very heavy hitting wines here, in the Petrus/Opus 1 class, and at the bottom end five each of white and red house wines from B980 a bottle, B250 a glass. But purists might find the list a little unbalanced, high in Californian, and overwhelmingly favouring Cabernets, Merlots and Chardonnays. However – the theme here being bottled water – there are samples from artesian wells all over the world, complete with tasting notes.

จามจุรี สแควร์ ถ.พญาไท

snapshots

Snapshots ee

history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lots of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the Sathorn/Silom

districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas and leafy public parks. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. These gradually-expanding public transpor tation networks, with their

bright, snaking trains carrying wideeyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped relieve the city’s notorious traffic congestion and pollution, but given this City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ but instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It is no surprise that The Guinness Book of Records registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

22 April 1974: James Bond struts his stuff

chronicle of thailand

Curious tourists hamper island filming of latest 007 thriller Scores of rifle-toting police had James Bond surrounded, but the dangerous and debonair British secret agent had no desire to escape. Thailand’s finest were there to protect him and his co-stars as they filmed The Man With The Golden Gun on Koh Ping Chan. More than 50 police officers were patrolling the waters around the island in an attempt to ward off longtail boats full of tourists anxious to get a glimpse of actors Roger Moore (Bond), Christopher Lee and blonde starlet Britt Ekland. Although the Ian Fleming novel had been set in Jamaica, director Guy Hamilton chose to shoot the 007 thriller in Thailand, with a few scenes in Hong Kong. Despite the heavy presence of the Phangnga Special Action Police, the island was virtually under siege by tourists and director Hamilton finally surrended, allowing his stars to submit to an extended autograph session. The tourists, however, weren’t Bond’s toughest adversaries. That title went to local bird’s nest collectors, who arrived on Ping Chan to harvest the rare delicacy. Insisting they had a right to work on the island, they refused to leave until the filmmakers compensated them. Ping Chan has since been known as ‘James Bond Island’. Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. In each issue, we serialise a news story that sheds light on this month in history. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books | B1,450 | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | www.chronicleofthailand.com bangkok 101

snapshots

Snapshots

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king with deep reverence for the monarchy. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family.Therefore, stand quietly when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and other public places. Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 16

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting.Thais don’t usually shake hands but rather wai (a prayerlike gesture with hands clasped in front of the face).This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows respect and humility.The higher the hands are raised, the more respect is being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (coolhearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ don’t step on the threshold ■ don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ be considerate when taking photographs ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

Inhalers

very thai

Aromatherapy becomes a daily habit

Philip Cornwel-Smith

Photos by John Goss & Philip Cornwel-Smith

orget Fendi bags, mobile phones and coloured tooth braces, the commonest Thai accessory is yaa dom – the nasal inhaler. The little white nozzle plugs into both the nose and the national psyche. Should the temperature drop beneath 30°C and the nation plunge into sniffles, a dab of menthol or yaa mong (a fragrant fatty ointment, like Tiger Balm) rubbed under the nose should suffice. But even when not suffering a cold, half the population habitually pops open a plastic tube of yaa dom and sniffs. Fashion, tradition and hypochondria may play a part, but a breathing problem exists. The way the Thai now live traumatises the nasal passages, causes constant chills and dulls the immune system. Constant ducking in and out of ice-cold air-conditioning isn’t the sole culprit; millions wake up wind-dried from sleeping through the gusts of a fan. Then throughout the day, stress-induced over-breathing gets the chairbound urbanite panting through his mouth. Respiratory illness is gagging Thailand. The capital’s fumes and cement dust permeate the Central Plains, while smoke from burning forest and fields choke Northern valleys throughout the hot season. Traditions support the vapour fetish. Today’s inhalers continue an indigenous healing culture of aromatherapy and a delight in things perfumed. Aside from morphing into today’s lipstick-shaped plastic inhalers, how did yaa dom stay hip? Toted like any other cosmetic, it serves as a socially accepted prop. Yaa dom plays nose-crutch in the manner of that mouth-crutch, the cigarette. Freud would have a field day.

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt each month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic. Snap up a copy at any good book shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith bangkok 101

snapshots

Sightseeing

orientation

greater bangkok Cha

Thewet & Dusit

ph r a

Ko Rattanakosin Ch

hray

Thonburi

Chinatown

Siam Square & Pratunam

Sukhumvit Chaophraya

– steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is Modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan (p.29) is

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries and have different, tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.20) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th Century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly

where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting ‘burbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked streets in fridge-cool comfort! When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along smelly Klong Saen Saeb (p.120) and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.29), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly. In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13 : Phra Athit Bkk’s young bohemians pensively sip coffee in the cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street. There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

N10

N15 :Thewet Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

d. tR ra

N9 : Tha Chang Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

Na Phra Lan Rd.

Rd. arat Mah

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Ratchada

mnoen K

Kalayang Matri Rd.

lang Rd.

N5 : Ratchawongse Bangkok’s Chinatown! Taoist temples, mazy backstreets, mottled shophouses and no end of Sino sights, noises Rd. Muangand smells make it a must. Bamrung

Royal Grand Palace

d. ng R i Wa Tha Wat Po

Chinatown

Pak Klong Talad

Pahurat

Kl Phr ao a P Br ok id ge

N1 : Oriental The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

Millenium Hilton

Wongwian Ya

ksin R

N6 : Memorial Bridge/ Saphan Pood Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

tc ha wo n

N6 Wat Arun

N2 : Sri Phaya On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

Charoen Krung Rd.

ai Rd. Sanam Ch

N15

N13

Amulet Market

Wat Mahatat

N8 :Tha Tien Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.29) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

Ratc hada mno Sana en N m ai Rd Luan . g

N10 : Wang Lang Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.54) are all in the vicinity.

ra ge Ph id et Br o mdla So K n Pi

101

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on.The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which follows a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables see www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

bangkok 101

o Ta Cha Phra Som det

Saphan Taksin Accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to Mandarin Oriental, Pennisula and Millenium Hilton hotels. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

Penninsula

Wongwian Yai

Krung Thonburi Rd. KrungThonburi

N1 Taks

in Br

idg

e SapanTaksin

sightseeing

Sightseeing

route 101

Whether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here. Wat Phra Kaew

Rattanakosin

elcome to Rattanakosin Island: historical heart land of modern Bang kok, spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Surrounded by man-made klongs (canals) and the Chao Phraya River, and immune to high-rise developments, its charms include decaying old shophouses (as opposed to 50-storey monsters) and the highest density of sacred must-sees in Bangkok. Whether you’re here for a few hours, a few days or more, every itinerary should include some time here.

sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

oa d

ath ai R

oad noe nN ok R

dam

c ha Rat kh

Luk Luang Road

Road

oad

ad Ro ak Wo ra

g Road Ti Thon

Bamrung Muang Road

hai R

Muang Ro

Mahac

Bamrung

Charoen Krung Road

NORTH

The Deck

Phra Phi Phit Road

M Ro

Phra Buddha Yodfa Monument

recommended sites: n Khao San Road Backpackers and all their material attachments. n Wat Mahathat A centre of Buddhist teaching hemmed in by a jostling amulet market. n The Giant Swing Men reached hazardous heights here during annual ceremonies... until it was banned. n Phra Athit Road Bohemian cafes, a tranquil park and an old fort converge upon one tree-shaded street.

sightseeing

Saphan Phut Pier

ka ph

Tha Thien Pier Tha Rachinee Pier

1. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) 2. Wat Po (Wat Phra Chetuphon) 3. Wat Phra Kaew 4. National Museum

PAHURAT

a aw

S on

Dinso

mno

hada Ratc

Tanao Ro

en N

ai Ro ad

hat R oad

hra T Na P

Wat Po

Thipsamai

Sao Ching Cha (Giant Swing)

Atsadang Road Rachini Road

Roa

oad ang R Road Rachini

hai

ng i Wa

Tha

ai Road

Sanam Ch

The Grand Palace

at T

Mah

fs b!Sjw Dibp!Qisbz

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Democracy Monument

Road

nR me Su

Klang

PHRA NAKHON

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn)

ra Ph

Atsad

Sana Luanm g

noen

Na Phra Lan Road

Tha Thien Pier

isu

ge id Br

Tha Chang Food Market

adam

Wat Mahathat

ac ha thi p

Ratch

Phrannok Pier

Tha Chang Pier

Kao San Ro

Tha Chang Pier

BANGLAMPHU

Thammasat University

Tha Maharat Pier

khon Road

n Pi

National Museum

Tha Phra Chan Pier

Fuang Na

ra Ph Thonburi Railway Pier

Dinso Road

oad

Tanao Rd

ao Kl

R sat Ka

n Pi

Tha Phra Athit Pier

oa d

Saphan Phra Pin Klao Pier

Sa ms en R

Khin Lom Chom Saphan

t isu W

tP de

bangkok 101

101

Democracy Monument

Wat Sam Phraya Pier

First stop is Wat Arun (p.29), also known as the Temple of Dawn. Actually pre-dating the Rattanakosin era, it’s a cornerstone of Thailand’s history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin then, once at the river, jump on an express boat (ask someone to point out which boat is an express). As you face the river, you want to be going right, upriver. Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its spire aglow, is easy to spot. After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross the river back to Tha Tien pier. Then make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.30). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles de-knotted at the famous Thai massage school. Temple initiation over, head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.29) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.29). Snub the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to pace, reverentially, around this gilded fairytale of a royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.28). Hungry for more Thai history? Then exit and head north across the ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.32). Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably find it is early evening.The rest of your evening is up to you – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some pad thai with the backpackers along Khao San Road. Or hit a cocktail bar like Amorosa, with its picture-postcard views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun.

Dining pit-stops: Use these restaurants to recharge en route. n The Deck Open-air restaurant with stunning views of river-straddling Wat Arun. 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com n Khin Lom Chom Saphan Feast on Thai seafood while eyeballing river reflections of Rama VIII Bridge. 11/6 Soi Samsen 3 | 02-628-8382 n Thipsamai Famous pad thai restaurant. 313 Mahachai Rd | www.thipsamai.com n Tha Chang Food Market A lipsmacking local market unfurls here each day. 21

Sightseeing

route 101

hinatown or Yaowarat, as it is known locally, is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, dramatic Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. The centre of Bangkok’s Chinese community actually used to be a couple of clicks west, but when King Rama V decided to build his palace on Rattanakosin Island the neighbourhood decamped en masse to its current location. It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in the Chinese pharmacy windows. Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive at night when

cHINATOWN fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. It’s quite a sight. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and look over to your right to take in Bangkok’s impressive main train station. This Renaissance-style edifice dates back to the early 20th century when King Rama V commissioned a bunch of Italian architects and engineers to give the capital a dash of European élan. Head straight on from Exit 1 and

sightseeing

cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap ThaiChina Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.30) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex. Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/ impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1 Rd). This wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than hair clips and rubber sandals on offer now. The lane’s not wide to start with, but fill it with food carts, dawdling shoppers and delivery boys on Vespas loaded with Hello Kitty schoolbags and you feel like a human pinball. Great fun! Emerging like a new born calf bangkok 101

ban

d aR

ai-C hin Th ab

3 Trongsawat Rd

Yaowaphanit Rd

11 Rd Soi Yaowarat

Mit tap h

Phadung Dao Rd

Plaeng Nam Rd

Soi Charoen Krung 16 Rd

Soi Yaowarat 6 Rd

Mungkorn Rd

Mittraphan Rd

Phlap Pla Chai Rd

Suapa Rd Soi Charoen Krung 14 Rd Soi Yaowarat 8 Rd

1 Rd

Mungkorn Rd

am ar

t ru Ph

Chaloem Buri Intersection

ha Ma

Soi Yaowar at 15 Rd

Ratchawong Rd

ar oe

See n San Chao Poy Sien Okay, it looks like a souvenir shop, but it’s actually a funky little shrine. Pop upstairs to the weird plastic cave-room to see the statue of the Chinese god Kuan Yim.

Information

Old market

Soi Wanit 1

Ratchawong Rd

ase gK

Yaowarat Rd

Soi W anit

Sam

phe

Sbudibxpoh !Qjfs

China Town Scala restaurant

Yaowarat Rd

Song Wat Rd

un Kr Rama IV Rd

Shangarila restaurant

Wat Kunmatay

Mai market

rat

Wat Bamphen

Kwang Tung Shrine

Rd a ow

Grand China Princess Hotel

Charoen Krung

i Ya So

101

HUA LAMPHONG

Hua Lamphong Railway Station

Lan

Wat Ko

Song Wat Rd

at R gW

Son

Wat Sampheng

1. Wat Traimit Witthayaram 2. San Chao Poy Sien shrine Auphairat 3. Wat Thian Fah Foundation 4. bamrung Canton House 5. Wat Mangkorn Kamalawat 6. Hua Seng Hong 7. T&K Seafood

Chao Phraya River

onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonialstyle warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.104) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross back over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross

over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on, there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’re there at breakfast time, head on in for a seething, groaning wet-market with everything from huge sacks of tea and dried mushrooms to plastic tubs of writhing catfish. If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neon-lit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Rd will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery to give your feet a well-earned rest.

n Thian Fah Foundation This atmospheric complex incorporates a hospital and another, more elegant shrine dedicated to Kuan Yim. n Wat Mangkorn Kamalawat Fight your way through the vendors in the entranceway and head straight to the temple at the back for a truly memorable experience.

Eat n T&K Seafood 49-52 Soi Phaduang, Yaowarat Rd | 02-2234519 | 4:30pm-2am Watch the crowds roll by and dishes being hoisted down on fishing lines from the upstairs kitchen. n Canton House Chaloem Buri Intersection | 02-2213335 | 11am-10pm Cheap, tasty and air-conditioned, Canton House has a great selection of dim-sum from B15 a pop. n Hua Seng Hong 371-373 Yaowarat Rd | 02-222-0635 | 9am-midnight Look out for the bright yellow sign, then squeeze past the crabs, ducks and shark fins into an air-conditioned dining room for tasty, reasonably priced Chinese fare.

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

Emporium

route 101

Sukhumvit like a slo-mo bullet above it. Get a quick jump on the day and loosen up with a morning stroll around the lake in Benjakitti Park. Located adjacent to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, which

Hapa Spa

Ital Thai

Nang Len

oi 1

63 (S o

Soi S

i Eka

ukhu

mai)

mvit

55 (S oi Th o

ng Lo

)

mvit

Soi

Soi S

ukhu

Agalico

THONG LO

EKAMAI

ek Rd QUEEN SIRIKIT NATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE

Crystal Spa

sightseeing

Prakanong)

vit Rd Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai)

adapis

1 Benjakitti Park

phong)

(Soi Prom umvit 39 49

Ratch

Soi 24

Soi 20

Benjasiri Park

Shades of Retro

Soi

PHROM PHONG

Rembrandt Hotel

Thailand Tobacco Monopoly

Soi Sukh

Rasayana Retreat

Soi 18

SUKHUMVIT

Soi 33

Soi 31

SUKHUMVIT Soi 14

pressway

Soi 12

Crêpes and Co

Soi 22

akhon Ex

ASOKE

Ekamai

Divana Divine

Uomasa

hosts world class expos weekly (see calendar p.10), it is easily accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. Next head to the Siam Society for a quick shot of culture. On Asok Road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross), it’s an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures and exhibitions. And out back is a stunning Northern Lanna teak house/ethnological museum. After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain and off to Phrom Phong station. Here you will find the cultural epicentre of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, Emporium. While you can easily get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, Coffee Beans by Dao world-class designers and up-andcoming Thai labels here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) on the sixth floor which continually stages thought-provoking, and usually free, exhibitions. Even better yet, TCDC is a short escalator ride away from the food floor, a United Nations of culinary possibilities. If your back is aching from scrutinising all those exhibits, why not Soi Sukhumvit 71 (Soi

vit 21 (Asok e)

Soi Prom

-mitr

Soi 23

Westin

Soi 25 Soi 29

vit

Soi 26

Soi 10

Soi

Cheap Charlie’s

PHETCHABURI

Soi Sukhum

Nest

Thong Lo

Soi 19

Soi 13

Soi 9

NANA

Soi 11

Amari Boulevard

Benjakitti Park Siam Society Emporium J-Avenue Soi 15

Soi 7

Soi 5

khum Soi Su

1. 2. 3. 4.

Soi 4

Soi 2

JW Marriott

Prasanmitr

vit 3 (N

ana N

ua)

ike Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner, Sukhumvit Road is a futuristic thriller – a flawed, frenetic, yet often compelling urban streetscape. Towering hotels, condominiums and offices sprawl east across its skyline, while down below a global Who’s Who races anonymously among them. Along its main stretch cars and c oncrete assail the senses, while down its many flanking sois calmer, more serene atmospheres unfold. Once a suburban backwater dominated by a stretch of rice fields, Sukhumvit has evolved into the residential destination of choice for aspirational Thais and the expats who work with them. As a result, it has developed its own village culture – marked by twee cafés, achingly hip boutiques and a veritable nation of fantastical day spas. In other words, when temple and museum-weariness set in, Sukhumvit could very well offer the perfect antidote. Only helping matters is the Skytrain, which swooshes

PRAKANONG

bangkok 101

ban

101

Q Bar

take a stretch among the modern sculptures and trim greenery of adjoining Benjasiri Park? Shopaholics can probe Thong Lo further, staking out the neighbourhood for designer clothing, jewellery, furniture and books. Or, should you be toying with matrimony, wedding garb. Hop on over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice of neon Tokyo and watch as beautiful people and their even prettier cars roll in. Once dinnertime rolls around check out “Japan Town” in Thong Lor Soi 13, where a clutch of great Japanese restaurants like Uomasa lurk. Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, the night time is definitely the right time. Drinking, dining, dancing, debauchery... it’s all here. For a go on a shisha pipe, Sukhumvit Soi 3 is Bangkok’s very own Little Arabia. Those looking to make a very Thai night of it (whisky sodas, a Thai live band) should head to one of the jumping joints along Thong Lor or Ekkamai. Sukhumvit Soi 11 – home to veterans like Bed Supperclub and Q Bar (p.82) – will satisfy your international clubbing needs. But for the best of Sukhumvit’s beau monde haunts its got to be Long Table (p.84): a cocktail at this 25th floor design bar, with its movers and shakers and electric panoramas, is not easily forgotten.

Crêpes & Co

bangkok 101

EAT Coffee Bean by Dao | Casa Viva Apartment, Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-713-2504~8 The cheesecakes at this local hi-so cake stop are out of this world. n Crêpes & Co | 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | 02-653-3990 Nestled in a quiet soi, in a palm-fronded garden, this French/Meditterean cafe serves an excellent all-day brunch. n Agalico | 20 Sukhumvit 51 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-662-5857 An all-white tea lounge situated in a lush garden. Only open weekends. Take a ride down Sukhumvit Soi 51, and take the first right. n Uomasa | Nihomura, 87 Thong Lor Soi 13 | 02-392-6575 Found in the wooden Nihomura compound, Uomasa is particularly recommended for sashimi lovers. DRINK n Shades of Retro | Soi Tararom 2,Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | BTS Thong Lor | 081824-8011 | 1pm-midnight People craving a drink and some laid-back conversation need look no further n

sightseeing

than antique store/nostalgia café Shades of Retro. n Cheap Charlie’s | Sukhumvit Soi 11 Bangkok’s most bizarre bar (p.88). n Nest | Sukhumvit Soi 11 Found opposite Q Bar, this sleek yet cosy rooftop bar won’t ruffle your feathers. n Nang Len | Ekkamai Soi 5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-711-6565 The name means “to sit around” in Thai. However you’d probably win the lottery before you find a seat here on weekends. SPA n Divana

Sightseeing

route 101 CentralWorld

Pathumwan

Siam and Pratunam BACC

of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride on Klong Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at Jim Thompson’s House (see p.28). Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps ri R

Rd.

ong

Phe

Ban

tha t Th

tch

abu

ri R

RATCHATEVI

Vie Hotel

Rd. New Phetchaburi Witthayu Chitlom

SIAM

n 12

1. Erawan shrine 2. Pratunam market 3. Baiyoke Tower 4. Panthip Plaza 5. Jim Thompson’s House 6. CentralWorld

ri Rd.

haburi 34

World

PATHUMWAN Soi Chula

Grand Hyatt Erawan

PLOENC

HIT

Suan

alongkor

Royal Bangkok Sport Club (R.B.S.C)

Four Seasons

JW Marriott

Conrad

bangkok 101

ya Rd. Si Pra

Plaza Athenee

RATCHADAMRI

sightseeing

■ Cen tral Chitlom

CHITLOM

Soi Lang

Soi Chul

nt Rd.

. ong Rd

Intercontinental Holiday Inn

SIAM SQUARE

longkorn

Bantha t Th

Soi Phetc

MBK

Henri Du na

Bantha

t Thong

Nationa Stadiuml

r ente ery C iscov mD r ■ Sia Cente ragon m ia a ■S mP ■ Sia

Pratunam

Ratchadam

Rd.

BACC

■ Zen ■ Centr al

Hau Chang Bridge

Rd.

abu

Witthayu

tch

Rd.

Phe

Witthayu

he Pratunam and Siam Square districts are famed as a shopper’s paradise. From the chaos of the shop-4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. Hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the canal (khlong) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 105), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand. Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise

indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi. Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the crisp, concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modern art scene central. After all this walking, a sit-down is probably in order. CentralWorld, Asia’s largest “lifestyle shopping complex”, houses scores of great restaurants and a fantastic cinema complex, where you can treat yourself to a ‘luxury cinema’ screening (see p.56). Top off your day with a yin-yang cocktail at Centara Grand hotel’s ultra-chic rooftop bar, Red Sky (p.84). You don’t even need to leave the bracing confines of the CentralWorld complex to get there. Just take an escalator to level one, catch a lift to the hotel’s lobby, and from there make like a rocket to the 55th floor.

Lumphini Park

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: a Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. 28

sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

101

temples majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature examples of Thai mural art documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced.

The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m² royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. Though King Bhumibol now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth

seeing, and there are some state rooms and halls open to visitors.These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, this forms the north-eastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. After being moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings and then taken by the Lao to Vientiane, Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and placed it at the centre of his new capital. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the

WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

Wat Arun

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

The Giant Swing

temples WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art 30

and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the respected Maha Makut Buddhist University, this temple is par ticularly important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm | B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha sightseeing

possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good fortune.

วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-5pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

bangkok 101

ban

101

Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium (see below). Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Eskimo. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones.The city’s parks (see p.33) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.103), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo (p.33) is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World (p.33) is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. On a more scholarly note, there’s a cracking museum aimed at inquisitive young minds. The Children’s Discovery Museum has a science and nature theme and is handily located near to Chatuchak. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old. The Children’s Discovery Museum (map C1) Kamphaeng Petch 4 Rd, Chatuchak | 02-6157333 | www.bkkchildren museum.com | Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am- 6pm | B150 Near the Chatuchak weekend market, this interactive museum aimed at younger guests covers science, nature and the environment. It also hosts regular courses and activity camps. พิพิธภัณฑ์เด็กกรุงเทพมหานคร

Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์ ตรงข้ามสวนจตุจักร

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which bangkok 101

performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Ganesha Shrine

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum. com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) and start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya, when the crews number up to 64 and include rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and musicians. Beautiful and ornate, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

Oddball Museums

It’s not all Buddhist art you know. Several museums in and around Bangkok delve into Thailand’s wacky and idiosyncratic. Definitely the most macabre, the Si Quey Forensics Museum revels in pickled body parts and cadavers of serial killers. A close second, the Corrections Museum uses lifelike models to recreate the rough justice meted out to crims in the not so old days (you’ll think twice about that sly toke after a trip here). Also in central Bangkok, the Museum of Counterfeit Goods displays 1,500 of Thailand’s best forgeries. As long as you call ahead (and don’t use it as a means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong the next day), you’re welcome. On the outskirts, the weekends only House of Museums is a two-storey sprawl of retro curiosities. Finally, if you’re a cinephile interested in Thailand’s New Wave, learn about the heritage that inspired your Pen-Eks and Apichatpongs at the Thai Film Museum in Nakhom Pathom. By appointment on weekdays, here you walk among recreated film sets, old 16mm cameras and waxwork figures of Thai cine heroes. Si Quey Forensics Museum (Official Name ‘Siriraj Medical Museum’) 2 Prannok road, Bangkoknoi | www.si.mahidol.ac.th | 02- 419-7000 ext 6363 | Mon-Sat 9am – 4pm | B40

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศริ ริ าช ถ.พรานนก

Corrections Museum 436 Bangkok Remand Prison, Mahachai Rd., Samranrat, Phra Nakhon | Mon-Fri 9am - 4pm | 02-226-1704 | free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ราชทัณฑ์ เรือนจำเก่า ใกล้กบั สวนรมณีนาถ

Museum of Counterfeit Goods Supalai Grand Tower Building 26F, Rama III Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-653-5555 | www.tillekeandgibbins.com | by appointment only

อาคารศุภาลัยแกรนด์ทาวเวอร์ ถ.พระราม 3

House of Museums 170/17 Moo 17 Soi Klong Po 2, Salathammasop Rd., Taweewattana | 089-666-2008 | http://houseofmuseums.siam.edu | Sat-Sun 10am – 5pm | B30

บ้านพิพธิ ภัณฑ์ ซ.คลองโพ 2 ศาลาธรรมสพน์

Thai Film Museum 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom| www.nfat.org | 02-482- 2013-15 | weekday: appointment only, weekend tours: 10am, noon, 3pm | free

หอภาพยนตร์แห่งชาติ 94 หมู่ 3 ถ.พุทธมณฑลสาย 5

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02225-2777 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B300 Just a few blocks from the Grand Palace, the Children’s museum is located inside the historic Ministry of Commerce building. Inside the three storey, E-shaped Renaissance style building, built in 1921, is a series of interactive, animated, theme park-like sightseeing

exhibitions exploring the history of the Siamese people. For adult viewers making sense of each room might be confusing: topics unexpectedly jump from ethnicity to religion to ancient folklore. Kids though will find it an edutaining experience, and love playing with the vibrant touch screens.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

bangkok 101

ban

101

the great outdoors

Rama IX Royal Park

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

bangkok 101

CHATUCHAK and QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

Siam Ocean World (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’reThai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing. สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 33

Sightseeing

in the neighbourhood

Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall

his new multimedia museum is not the slickest or most ‘edutaining’ in the land – that accolade goes to the Museum of Siam near Wat Pho. But the Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall does give a skilfully abbreviated and arranged introduction to an area many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Once you’re temple’d out – have done the Grand Palace, Wat Pho etc – it’s a great place to expand your knowledge of the area beyond that pithy paragraph in your guidebook. And not just because there’s air-con. Wandering its seven rooms – light on relics but heavy on dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s obscure history, arts, communities and traditions into sharper focus. It kicks off, fittingly for such a proud nation, with some pomp: a multimedia presentation employing everything from video to dry ice and mist spray to reenact Rattanakosin’s birth in 1782. Images of its founder, King Rama I, fades into a diorama explaining this island was built to emulate the glories of razed former capital Ayutthaya; its ditches, canals and fortresses built along the same principles. The second room, ‘The Prestige of the Kingdom’, showcases the 34

ethereal magnificence of the Grand Palace, featuring replicas of it and its main architectural motifs like krueng yot (flame-shaped roof pinnacles). Visitors can also watch a cartoon animation, about the oft-debated itinerant history of the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s holiest Buddhist relic – before strolling into a mock Grand Palace inner court where waxwork court ladies sit carving fruit, making floral decorations and weaving. One of the most interesting rooms for us, ‘Remarkable Entertainments’, showcases Thai fine performing arts like nang yai (puppetry), lakhon nai (court drama) and hun luang (puppet theatre) by way of a fun, if dizzying panoramic mural animation. In the section next to it, one then learns about traditional masked dance, khon – its masks, its story (the Ramakien), and its characters, namely the ways they relate the same emotions using distinct body language. The fourth explores the ancient ceremonies the reigning King has revived, such as the Royal Barge Ceremony and Royal Ploughing Ceremony; the fifth, the evolution of Rattanakosin’s architectural styles through the centuries; and the sixth sheds light on its 12 shophouse communities and their craftsmen. Here, in one of the museum’s more interactive moments, stepping on sightseeing

each of 12 designated spots triggers a backlit information board explaining that, for example, Mahachai Road was originally the place to find joss sticks, scented water and robe girdles, Soi Din So white clay; and so on. Soon, the fourth floor will host an observation deck from which you can survey the Wat Rachanaddaram temple next door, with its eerily spired Loha Prasart fort, not to mention the area you now have a more in-depth grasp of. Where 100 Ratchadamnoen Klong Road, next to Wat Ratchanadda | www.nitasrattanakosin.com Open Tues-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm Price B100 (B100 extra for English language headset)

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing Lop Buri

Uthai Thani

day tripping

Chai Nat Nakhon Ratchasima

Ang Thong Saraburi

Suphan Buri

It’s easy getting around in Thailand, and there are plenty of worthwhile excursions within easy reach of Bangkok; some one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent.

Ayutthaya

Kanchanaburi

Nakhon Pathom

Koh Kred

Pathumthani

Nakhon Nayok

Sa Kaeo

Nonthaburi Bangkok

Ratchaburi

Samut Sakhon Samut Songkhram

Samut Prakan

Chachoengsao

Chon Buri

Phetchaburi

AYUTTHAYA The capital of Siam from the 14th to 18th century, Ayutthaya was one of the richest cities in the East, until it was plundered by the Burmese in 1767 and its ruins left to nature. Today a Unesco World Heritage Site, its remnants – all Khmer-esque stupas, crumbling bricks and Buddha faces entwined in tree roots – make a wonderful daytrip. The 85km journey is best done by river. The major hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City. Many combine the trip with a visit to the Bang Pa-in Summer Palace. A former royal garden retreat, this presents a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly reflecting King Rama V’s love for all things European. Once at Ayutthaya, hop on a bike and scoot round highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. . LOPBURI Lopburi’s illustrious ruins date back over 1,000 years and can done on foot. During the Dvaravati period (6th-11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo 36

until the Khmers took over the region during Angkor’s 10th century heyday. The Thais took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. And in the 1600s, King Narai made the city the second capital and fortified it against the Dutch navy threatening Ayutthaya. The remnants of the palace he built now serve as a public museum. The city is also littered with crumbling wats (temples) blending Khmer and Thai styles. Watch your belongings: the most famous – three-prang shrine Phra Prang Sam Yot (a prang is a spire-like vault) – is home to some mischievous macaque monkeys.

SAMUT PRAKAN Just down the road – 29km away – Samut Prakan has three big draws.The Crocodile Farm offers daily croc wrestling and elephant shows. Muang Boran (the Ancient City) is an open-air museum park featuring over 100 replicas of landmark Thai temples, monuments and buildings. Built by the same benefactor, the smaller Erawan Museum features a towering threeheaded elephant sculpture. Inside are antiques and a stucco chapel, but most Thais come for the fantastical gardens and to pray for good luck at the esteemed shrine.-

NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120m high chedi (or stupa), the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century version. Situated around 55km west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in Thailand, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history.The other big draw is the Rose Garden, a picturesque 70-acre park featuring botanical gardens and mock-Thai village cultural shows.

KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film The Bridge on the River Kwai, Kanchanaburi town is a popular weekend getaway, offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreigners are attracted by the area’s history – namely the “Thai Burma Death Railway,” built by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The lush countryside around Kanchanaburi is home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking.

sightseeing

bangkok 101

NEARBY ISLANDS/BEACHES

No time to jet down to Koh Samui or Phuket? A handful of beach resorts and islands close to Bangkok are perfect for last-minute escapes.These span the gamut from lonely beaches offering the odd reggae shack and driftwood sign, to cosmopolitan beach resorts that have adopted the ‘built it and they will come’ philosophy with mixed results. ■ PATTAYA/JOMTIEN Most famous for its seedy nightlife, Pattaya’s been trying – well, sort of – to re-establish itself as a family destination. Hundreds of hotels and eateries ensure competitive prices; and while the surfeit Koh Chang of self-enclosed resorts means it’s easy for those with kids or a sleaze intolerance to avoid the girly bars, sister beach Jomtien is still a better option. ■ KOH CHANG A large jungle-clad hilly gem that’s been found by the deluxe hotel industry. Spending the night in hammocks is impossible, but fantastic beaches are still here, some hiend touristy, some budget backpacker-y. Catch a bus from the Ekkamai bus station (approx 5 hours) or fly here with Bangkok Air via Trat (approx 2 hours). ■ KOH SAMET A retreat for hip Thai youngsters who invade the island to

FLOATING MARKETS

Amphawa

Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose. n DAMNOEN SADUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 1530 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang. bangkok 101

spend days swimming in clear waters and nights sipping Thai-whisky buckets or playing the guitar on the superclean beaches. It’s worth booking ahead on weekends and public holidays, lest you want to be a source of amusement as you trudge up and down the beach desperately looking for an overpriced room. ■ HUA HIN/CHA-AM The royal summer residence town receives hordes of Thai families and package tourists. The long beach is satisfying, and is dotted with plenty of top-notch resorts like Chiva Som, the Evason, Hyatt Regency, Hilton and more. The piers filled with seafood restaurants are more of an attraction, as is the addictive night market. Nearby Cha-am is Hua Hin’s smaller, less developed sister. Coach loads of Thai townies come here on weekends to fly kites, ride ponies and generally lark around in the ocean. ■ KO SI CHANG Located a cheap 45 minute ferry journey from Si Racha Town, in Chonburi province, scenic Koh Si Chang is seldom visited by foreign tourists. More fool them – though its more of a sightseer island than a sunbather island, it’s got picturesque lookouts, King Rama V era palaces and Chinese temples to explore.Those wanting to overnight can pick from a few cheap resorts and bungalows.

GETTING THERE By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 434-5558). n TALING CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday,Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly.

n AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season. GETTING THERE By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram.The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram.

GETTING THERE By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-424-5448 or 02424-1712). Damnoen Saduak

sightseeing

Sightseeing

upcountry festivals

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

April 3

Frappe Music Fiesto 2010, Cha-am

Another month, another music festival, this one unleashing world-class ska, bossa nova, groove and blue-eyed soul on the tranquil grounds of the Springfield Village Golf and Spa in Cha-am. British acid jazz heroes Incognito, 9-piece Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra and Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s excellent The Cat Empire will headline this new, Singha-sponsored event.Tickets (www. totalreservation.com) cost between B1,500-3,000 and the organisers have sealed some tidy deals at the host and surrounding resorts. More at www.frappemusic.com

April 2-3

The Ascent of Khao Phanom Rung, Buriram

At sunrise during these dates an astonishing astro-archaeological phenomenon is expected to occur at Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung, an ancient Khmer-Hindu temple in northeastern Buriram province. Weather permitting, a ray of morning sun will shine through the 15 aligned doors that make up its inner courtyard, illuminating a revered lingam hidden in the main sanctuary. Marking this auspicious, solar-related and very Indiana Jones-sounding event will be a rarely seen invocation ritual, known as buang suang, as well as a light and sound show and traditional cultural performances. 38

April 9-11

Poi San Long, Mae Hong Son

Poi San Long is one of Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most photogenic festivals. Based on a Burmese Shan tradition, for 3 days before Songkran (see opposite), the northern town of Mae Hong Son is the site of this celebration, where young boys are ordained as monks in a colourful spectacle. On day one, the boys have their heads shaved and give vows to the local abbot. Once their heads are shaved, the boys are not allowed to touch the ground, thus they are carried throughout the town in colorful costumes with much merrymaking accompanying their status in becoming novices.The second day of Poi San Long is a riotous parade and spontaneous local celebration, with everyone in town taking part. On the third day, the boys are given their first robes and served a huge feast, and Mae Hong Song returns to being a sleepy backwater until next year. sightseeing

bangkok 101

10-19 April

Phra Nakhon Khiri Muang Phet Fair, Phetchaburi

The charming, laid-back town of Phetchaburi slips into party mode mid-April, as folks get out their dancing shoes and party hats to take part in the annual Phra Nakhon Khiri Muang Phet Fair. Events will be taking place at various locations, but the focal point is to be the Khao Wang Palace, on top of Phetchaburi’s iconic Khao Khiri hill.The festival is to pay respect to kings from years gone by and, this year, marks the 151th anniversary of Khao Wang Palace. Call the TAT Call Center, on 1672, for more.

April 30 - May 4

Top of the Gulf Regatta, Pattaya Boats ranging from keelboats to yachts and ickle dinghies will moor at Jomtien Beach’s Ocean Marina Yacht Club before tearing off across the choppy Gulf of Thailand in a bid to win its largest maritime event. Not that it’s all plain sailing. The seventh Top of the Gulf Regatta will also include one free night for crews to, erm, “explore the delights of downtown Pattaya.” www.topofthegulfregatta.com bangkok 101

April 13-15

Songkran, Nationwide

While there’s no doubt that Bangkok is a great place to drench yourself in Thailand’s New Year (see p.11), it is in the provincial towns and villages that Songkran is at its most charming. Naturally, you’re still certain to get soaked and powdered by a smiling stranger, but you’ll also encounter more of the ceremony: traditional Buddhist rites like rong nam dam hua (paying respect to your elders) , beauty pageants, temples fairs and more. Below are but a few of the celebrations going on in other provinces, many of which take place for longer – or during different dates entirely – than April 13-15, the nationwide public holiday. Please note that Chiang Mai city is the exception – the celebrations here make even the ones on Khao San Road look subdued! Visit www.songkran.net for more details. n Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Songkran Festival Ayutthaya Historical Park, All Around the city island of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya | 13-15 April n Phra Padaeng Songkran Festival, Samut Prakan In front of Phra Padaeng District Office, Samut Prakan | 16-18 April n Chon Buri Songkran Festival, Ko Sichang Songkran Festival Ko Sichang and Ko Khamyai (1 km. from Ko Sichang), Chon Buri | 13-18 April n Nong Khai Songkran Festival Wat Phochai and Hat Chommani, Amphoe Mueang, Nong Khai | 11-15 April n Chiang Mai Songkran Festival, Chiang Mai Chiang Mai City, Chiang Mai | 12-15 April n Songkran Festival and Dok Khun Siang Khaen Festival on Khao Nieo Road Bueng Kaen Nakhon and Sichan Road (Khao Nieo Road), Khon Kaen | 8-15 April n Nakhon Phanom Songkran Festival Lan Krun Kaw - Tong Sri Kroboon Beach, Amphoe Mueang and Amphoe Renu Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom | 12-15 April n Sukhothai Songkran Festival Si Satchanalai Historical Park, Sukhothai | 11-15 April n Nakhon Si Thammarat Songkran Festival Wat Phrathat, Sridhumasokarah Park and downtown, Nakhon Si Thammarat | 11-15 April n Songkran on the Beach & Phuket Bike Week 2010 Loma (Dolphin) Public Park and the Port, Junceylon Shopping Destination Patong, Phuket | 10-13 April n Wan Lai Pattaya Songkran Festival Pattaya Chonburi | 18-19 April

sightseeing

Sightseeing

Upcountry Escape

Koh Phangan:

So much more than Full Moon

n cinema, they call it typecasting. You get famous for playing the stereotypical wiseguy sidekick or evil Lothario and, regardless of all your other aspirations, people can’t help but imagine you in that role forever. The marvellous little island of Koh Phangan is stuck in a similar situation. Due to its fame worldwide as host of monthly madcap full-moon parties, many people still presume it’s something like the biblical Sodom – a sandy wasteland of controversial moral behaviour. A recent reality TV show from the UK, ‘Big Trouble in Tourist Thailand’, didn’t help matters, it’s footage of young backpackers being locked up and spewing on beaches at these events garnering thousands of hits on YouTube. Net result: its nearby neighbour, Koh Samui takes the lion’s share of the tourism and Phangan only fills up when the moon is fat. And although many fans of the easygoing island are happy to keep it that way, discerning travellers looking for a bit of mellow paradise might be encouraged to look beyond full moon: there’s much more to Phangan than just getting off your face for a night.

While Haad Rin beach – the formerly-pretty site of the party itself – has arguably been destroyed by overdevelopment, there are lots of other lovely beaches around the island which might as well be worlds away. Furthermore, upscale and boutique accommodation is much more plentiful than in the past; there are even a few world-class dining establishments around. There’s lots to do as well. Touring the island by rented motorbike is a sheer joy – unlike Samui which is

sightseeing

overrun by traffic, Phangan’s roads are wide open in parts – think “Easy Rider” in a bathing suit. Two elephant camps offer lively and inexpensive jungle treks, though if you’d prefer to do it yourself, several hiking trails allow easy access to stunning viewpoints through the wide swaths of wilderness that still dominate the vast majority of the island. Along the way you might come across one of several waterfalls, some of which flow even now, in the midst of the hot season. Excellent snorkelling and scuba diving abound, with crystal clear waters not far from the coast, and even directly off-shore in many cases; the charming little islet of Koh Ma is a favourite snorkelling spot, connected to Phangan by a picturesque sandbar during low tide. Prefer to look inwards? Spiritual endeavours are also popular, with assorted meditation retreats, detox centres, yoga schools and the like. There are also a few great spas and health centres; surprisingly, the little island is also a popular spot for “dental tourism” with a few excellent and bangkok 101

cheap dentistry offices. If you’re keen to get your groove on, Haad Rin is actually quite fun when visited on a non-full moon night, when the bars and beachside clubs thrive but the population is more manageable. Also, other “moon” parties with a lot less of the hoopla have taken off in popularity. At various spots around the island one finds periodic Half Moon, Black Moon, Moon Rise, and Shiva Moon parties, each flaunting their own unique style, and all of them generally a bit less outrageous than the monthly monster bash at Haad Rin (the next is on Wed 28 April if you’re interested). Aside from all the activities, however, Koh Phangan boasts dozens of beaches of every stripe, sure to suit all tastes and most blessedly uncrowded. Which means that lazy folks are well catered to here as well. In short: visitors to this stillunspoiled island are essentially spoiled for choice. Phangan’s progress is proceeding at a characteristic leisurely pace, though talks have been underway for years about building an offshore airport. We hope it never happens but if that ever gets off the ground, the island’s mellow and varied nature may be all-but washed out to sea. Until then, it remains a comfortably well-kept slice of old-style Thailand tourism, only today you no longer have to sleep and eat in penurious backpacker style if you don’t want to. bangkok 101

GETTING THERE Two airlines (www.bangkokair.com and www.thaiairways.co.th) fly from Bangkok to Ko Samui; there are around 25 flights each day. From there it’s an easy 30 minute speedboat to Koh Phangan. They also fly direct to Samui from Chiang Mai, Pattaya, Phuket and Singapore. One can also fly from Bangkok to Suratthani on the mainland (via Thai Airlines or Air Asia) and then take a ferry to Koh Phangan from the nearby port of Don Sak, though the journey will take considerably longer. Trains to Suratthani from Bangkok are also an option. There is also a comfortable 24-seat bus service that will take you from Bangkok to Koh Phangan via road and ferry which leaves Bangkok’s southern bus terminal at 7pm, arriving at the island at 9:30am. PRACTICAL INFORMATION Accommodation n Blue Ocean Garden Resort 51/11 Moo 8, Haad Chao Pao | 089-636-8189 | www. blueoceangarden.com n Green Papaya Resort 64/8 Moo 8, Salad Beach | 077-374230 | www.greenpapayaresort.com n Panviman Resort 22/1 Moo 5, Tong Nai Pan Noi Bay | 077-445101-9 | www.panviman. com sightseeing

n Santhiya Resort and Spa Tong Nai Pan | 077-428-999 | www. santhiya.com Fine Dining n Me’n’u 19/8 Moo 6, Hin Kong, 089-289-7133, 087-897-0025, www.menu-phangan.com Adventure Activities n Koh Phangan Elephant Safari Chaoluklum | 081-8953783 | phangansafari.com Spiritual Activities n Agama Yoga Ao Hin Kong | 089-233-0217 | www.agamayoga.com n Wat Khao Tahm Meditation Retreats www.watkowtahm.org Parties /Nightlife n Click on www.kohphangannews. org for the skinny on the ‘moon’ parties, plus survival tips, and tip-offs about island accommodation rip-offs and scams.

Sightseeing

over the border Max Crosbie-Jones

Kuala Lumpur

ost trips to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s 1.8 million strong capital, begin with an ascent to the viewing deck of the worldfamous Petronas Twin Towers. It’s a smart place to start; not just because the views – of a roaring Asian tiger boxed in by a rolling mountain valley – are fantastic, but also because the free tickets are usually all gone by 9am. Up here, Kuala Lumpur is your textbook Asian boom-city. Concrete towers horde wide streets, delicious green parks and loopy spaghetti trails of hyper-efficient expressways and shiny monorails. Everything looks planned by committee. Head back down to street-level though and you’ll find that KL, established in 1857 by Chinese tin miners, is rich with local colour and, above all, charm. This is a city that has gone from untamed jungle to British colony, independence to warp-

speed capitalism in 150 years… and it shows. Gnarled old banyan trees bloom beside turn-of-the-century shophouses while the peaks of Islamaccented skyscrapers glint in the distance. And, everywhere, there are the people; the mélange of Malay, Chinese and Indian faces, too caught up in modernity’s daily grind to even begin feeling smug about their mostly winning brand of multiculturalism. Where to stay? As you’d expect the usual chain hotels cohorts all here – The Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental etc – but if these hard times are beginning to bite, try one of the souped-up flophouses on Tingkat Tong Shin, like Red Palm; or Stay Orange, a Japanese capsule-style guesthouse bang in the heart of Chinatown’s delightful five-foot-wide verandas and candy-coloured shophouses. The famous Jalan Petaling stretch is, from late afternoon until midnight, sightseeing

a crush of pushy stalls selling fake Rolexes and KL key rings. Much more interesting are the backstreets, where you’ll find gems like the ornate Sri Maha Mariamman temple and the Straits Chinese (Nyonya) cuisine of the sepia-toned Old China Café. Yummy streetfood abounds, vendors peddling everything from refreshing cups of air mata kucing (dried longan juice) to famous Hong Kee porridge. At the art deco Central Market nearby, formerly a wet market, stock up on local crafts and souvenirs – batik clothing, Malay masks, gemstones, woodcarvings. For global glamour brands spend an afternoon walking the marble-encrusted floors of the colossal Suria KLCC shopping centre; or strut down Bukit Bintang, KL’s riposte to Singapore’s Orchard Road (only here the big-brand Gucci stores vie for business with foot masseuses). Want to unravel KL’s complex bangkok 101

cultural tapestry? A slew of museums will help you unpick the religious and ethnic strands, not least the National Museum and Islamic Arts Museum. For architecture don’t miss the parapets of the stately, Moorish-styled Sultan Abdul Samad Building or Jamek Mosque, two landmarks found at the confluence of the Klang and Gambok rivers. Afterwards hit the nearby Lake Gardens, an undulating 170 acres of lakes and majestic rain trees that makes Bangkok’s parks look derisory. Leave some energy for nighttime; a beer may cost the price of several in Thailand, but KL is no early sleeper.

bangkok 101

Locals and expats head for the blocks of bars, clubs and restaurants in the affluent Bangsar suburb. Ask your taxi driver to take you to ‘Jalan Telawi’ and you’ll be on the tiles in no time. Back in town, Bukit Bintang’s sidewalks hum with people until well past midnight, while several enclaves about town pull in the city’s raffish. Asian Heritage Row, for one, has made shophouses cool, by carefully converting some into a chic, Soho village-style community of designer bars, continental bistros and velvet-rope clubs. Likewise, just off Bukit Bintang, Changkat Bukit Bintang houses an international potpourri of restaurants. Frangipini’s nouveau French and Little Havana’s south-ofthe-border snacks are especially tasty. Or try a late night feed around the corner on Jalan Kejora, the beloved food hawker spot formerly known as Jalan Alor. Here you can enjoy a cheap plate of classic Malay nasi lemak while sitting beside chattering Cantonese families, and turbaned Sikhs stroll past the vendors who tout for trade in front of each stall; the real Kuala Lumpur in other words. sightseeing

Getting There n Air Asia | www.airasia.com n Thai Airways | www.thaiair.com Eat n Old China Inn 11 Jalan Balai Polis | (60 3) 2072-5915 n Frangipini 25 Changkat Bukit Bintang | (60 3) 2144-3001 | www.frangipani.com.my n Little Havana 2-4 Lorong Sahabat, Off Changkat Bukit Bintang | www.mylittlehavanakl.com Night life n Asian Heritage Row Jalan Doraisamy | www.asianheritagerow.com Stay n Mandarin Oriental 50088 City Centre | (60 3) 21798818 | www.mandarinoriental.com n Stay Orange 16 Jalan Petaling | (60 3) 2070-2208 | www.stayorange.com n Red Palm 5 Tengkat Tong Shing | (60 3) 21431279 | www.redpalm-kl.com 43

Arts

contemporary art

Jamjuree

Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional absorption of all things American and

European, many of Thailand’s freshfaced generation of artists are infatuated with the street-style, urban iconography of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, Korea and increasingly China. An indicator of the growing profile of Thai art could be in the proliferation of new commercial galleries that have opened in the last couple of years, with Bangkok gaining over a dozen new venues in different areas across the city. These include artist -run spaces such as printmaker and sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s hotbed of young conceptualists at Gallery VER. While Thailand’s ongoing political debacle has complicated ar tistic planning, the decade-plus wait for the new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opposite MBK shopping mall, is over. For news of its exhibitions, performances and the like log on to www.bacc.or.th GALLERIES The majority of contemporary art on view in Bangkok is produced by domestic practitioners, several of whom are now receiving significant international exposure, though there is ar ts

an increasing number of regional Asian artists displaying their works, at prices often cheaper than in countries like Singapore, China and Vietnam. Whether hoping to peruse some emerging local protagonist, or purchase something a bit more commercial or traditional, one thing’s for certain – prices for art in Bangkok are more realistic and reasonable than overinflated, fashionable ar t centres in America, Europe and increasingly China. You’ll soon realise that the city doesn’t have a concentrated artistic enclave; rather, there are small pockets of galleries, auction houses and antiques shops randomly dispersed throughout the city. Commercial galleries are spread across town and a little route planning is advised before embarking on a day of gallery musing. On the following page is a selection of noteworthy galleries about town. Steven Pettifor is the editor of the Bangkok Art Map (BAM!), and author of Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is available as a consultant to art buyers; stevenpettifor@hotmail.com bangkok 101

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM! is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab a copy and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

art exhibitions

Don’t Worry Be Lucky Jim Thompson 6 Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | 02-216-7368 | 9am-5pm | www.jimthompsonhouse. com | BTS National Stadium This ambitious travelling exhibition features both contemporary and pre-modern art from, and pertaining to, tropical regions. Already presented in Brazil, South Africa, and Germany, the three curators attempt to detect currents of energy and subtle disturbances between the hemispheres in times of tension, and to search for cooperative as well as counteractive cultural forces. Until Jun 12

Another Side La Lanta 245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02-260-5381, 02-204-5083 | Tue-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun by appointment | www.lalanta.com | BTS Phrom Phong Dreams have long provided creative impetus to artists and this group exhibition of Thai and international artists again delves into the artist’s subconscious. Celebrating the irrational and unpredictable, the 20 artworks on view resist canonical norms, creating non-linear interpretations through painting, sculpture, printmaking and photography. Until Apr 30

The Tropics – Views from the Middle of the Globe Galerie N 139/5 Wireless Rd | 02-654-0522 | Tue-Sun 10am- 7pm | www.galerienbangkok. com | MRT Lumphini Chiang Mai based Luck Maisalee uses animals and other symbols to convey his life journey. Born in the year of the tiger, the feline is a dominant image that runs through his paintings, mixed media works, woodcuts and mono prints. Inspired by folk, naïve, and children’s art, Luck’s art is loaded with a whimsical innocence that reflects his playful personality. Until Apr 18

Free

For the latest scoop on Bangkok’s art scene, pick up a free copy of BAM! citywide at art galleries, cultural centres or from your hotel concierge.

EVERY MONTH

Bangkok Ar t

Map Sponsored by

bangkok 101

From the publishers of ar ts

www.bangkokartmap.com 45

RIVERSIDE REVIVAL

Exploring Chachoengsao's refreshing old markets Photography by Doungjun Roongruang Words by Max Crosbie-Jones In nearby Chachoengsao, a lush fertile province crisscrossed by canals, two quaint canal-side markets dating back to King Rama Vâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reign survive. Like grandmas with new hips, both are ravaged by the passage of time but experiencing a new lease of life as locals flock on weekends to enjoy their nostalgic ambiance, wares and, best of all, food. We strongly recommend you do the same.

Klong Suan lines the banks of a manmade canal called Prawet Burirom. In the past people came here via boat while on their way to or from Bangkok. Today those not close enough to walk to market drive and jostle for space in swollen car-parks.

Photo Feature

Dog-legging rows of covered, two-storey teakwood shophouses face the canal and sell everything from old-style coffee, fruits and pot-stewed duck to kitchen utensils, plastic toys and antiques.

The way of life for the residents here, many of whom are elderly Thai Chinese, remains largely untouched by the march of time.

Klong Suan Market

Photo Feature

A wobbly hump-back bridge, as old as the market itself, connects the market to another community technically in Samut Prakan province. It also makes a neat, multi-level diving board for local children on blazing hot summer days.

Klong Suan Market

Photo Feature

Pae Lee is the marketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unofficial mascot, having lived and worked here for over 70 years. Famous for his genial welcome, he and his shabby but excellent coffee-shop have featured in countless magazines over the years, including this one.

Klong Suan Market

Several barbershops survive, though judging from all the yellowing pictures of 80s and 90s Thai rock and soap stars, you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get the hippest of hairdos here.

Photo Feature

Ban Mai Market Smaller, quieter but no less picturesque, Ban Mai market is comprised of around 120 teak-shuttered shophouses and stalls. This living museum is situated at the confluence of the Klong Ban Mai canal with the 230km long Bang Pakong.

Photo Feature

Ban Mai is full of old characters, many with tales of the marketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s demise and more recent renewal as a destination for daytrippers and film crews to tell.

Ban Mai Market Though not a floating market per se, locals who live nearby do paddle to and from the market. Snacks, flowers and other comestibles acquired at the market are on full view to the nosy.

Photo Feature

Coffee shops overlooking riverine life double up as local community centres. In fact the number one pastime here seems to be having a natter or quiet think over a glass of old-style tea or sock-filtered coffee.

Ban Mai Market Despite several fires over the years, the original architecture dating back to King Chulalongkorn, who visited the market on 25 January 1907, is well-preserved.

Getting there:

From Bangkok take the Bangkok-Chonburi Highway (number 7) and take a left when you see the Talad Klong Suan sign. To reach Ban Mai Market take Road 3001 (Lat Kraband), turn left onto Road 314 and then take a right onto Road 304 into Chachoengsao. Ban Mai is located approximately 1km from the train station, beside the Bang Pakong River. Trains also depart from Hua Lumphong Station for Chachoengsao several times a day. As do buses, which leave from Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Northern Bus Terminal, over on Kamphaeng Phet II Road, every 30 minutes.

Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com, www.bangkokconcerts.com

Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai|BTS Victory Monument | 02677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular new 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, bear witness to hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www. patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are world-class.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

A live puppet show might sound like it’s aimed at kids, but this one is intriguing for all. The one-hour show follows the story of the Ramakien. The large puppets are incredibly lifelike; the scenes are colourful and fun to watch – so even adults enjoy the show. Arrive early to observe the production of traditional masks.

โรงละครนาฏยศาลา หุน่ ละครเล็ก (โจหลุยส์) สวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.31), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.28), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.83).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง ar ts

bangkok 101

TCDC (Thailand

Creative & Design Centre) Quick Bites: Design for Better Eating

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres. These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on.

cultural centres

Alliance Française (map C4)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly WHERE 6F,The Emporium good at opening your Shopping Complex, mind and eyes to Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS curious international Phrom Phong, 02-664-8448, design concepts; be it www.tcdc.co.th OPEN Vivienne Westwood’s 10:30am-9pm closed Mon fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

Japan Foundation (map D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ The Belgian Club of Thailand (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com

BACC (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th The eleven-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls and looks out towards the city’s elevated skytrain.The Guggenheim meets a mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre plans to nurture a scope of creative fields including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting 3,000sqm for hosting art. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

bangkok 101

ar ts

Arts

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, stateof-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.55), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180. The best place to check screening times is on the daily-updated www.movieseer.com.

Please

Thai Cinema

stand while the king's anthem is played in respect to Thailand’s beloved monarch.

Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

POPCORN PARADISO

If you don’t fancy the local cineplex or your frontroom there’s another option that falls snugly between the two. Monday is Popcorn Paradiso night at Bed Supperclub (p.82), where creative chef Cameron Stuart serves a choice of two appetizers, three mains, and two desserts for you to chow on while you watch a classic or cult flick (B1,450++). And… you lie on fluffy white divan beds to eat: the perfect position for watching a movie. On April 5, Ridley Scott’s breakout 1979 sci-fi hit Alien screens (try and look away before the creature rips through John Hurt’s chest – that’ll put you off dinner!); and on April 12 its Valley of the Dolls, Mark Robson’s camp classic about three Hollywood women who become hooked on “dolls”, or prescription drugs. 1967’s Bonnie and Clyde, in which Warren Beatty and Faye Dunaway play doomed partners in love and crime during the Great Depression, screens on April 19. And finally, on April 26 it’s time for Showgirls, Paul Verhoeven’s erotic (and universally panned) 1995 guilty pleasure about a young dancer in Vegas. Films start at 6:45pm. 02-651-3537, www.bedsupperclub.com 56

ar ts

APEX Lido, Siam and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02251-2861, Siam 02-251-3580 โรงภาพยนต์ลโิ ด สยาม และสกาลา

สยามสแควร์ ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Grand (Gold Class) Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-812-9999 สยามดิสคัฟเวอร์รเ่ี ซ็นเตอร์

ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Metropolis (Gold Class) Big-C Ratchadamri (opp. Central World Plaza), Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chitlom | 02-812-9999 บิก ๊ ซี ราชดำริ ตรงข้ามเซ็นทรัล

เวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-9333 เอ็มโพเรียม สุขม ุ วิท 24 SF WORLD CINEMA 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-268-8888 เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ SF World,CentralWorld

bangkok 101

reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used. MERCHANTS OF MADNESS Bertil Lintner & Michael Black | Silkworm Books | 200pp | B595 If you listened to the Burmese junta, you’d think that drug production and trafficking in the reclusive nation had all but disappeared. The truth, according to regional experts Bertil Lintner and Michael Black, is that the drug trade in the Golden Triangle (the area where Burma, Thailand and Laos converge) is thriving. Since the midNineties, attention has shifted from heroin to methamphetamine, known in Thailand as ya ba. Cheaper and more readily available than heroin, it has cost many lives and generated lots and lots of money. Lintner and Black trace the rise in popularity of the drug known as “madness medicine” by speaking to police as well as people in the actual drug trade. What’s more, they pinpoint the kingpins behind the trafficking organizations, and explain why the Burmese junta turn a blind eye.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong or CD Warehouse outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English subtitles and DVD region compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

URBAN BANGKOK Joakim Leroy | Orchid Press | 207pp | B1,395 The glut of coffeetable pictorials makes it easy to be cynical about publisher’s trying to squeeze baht out of this most camera-friendly of cities. And, leaving that can of worms behind, this one is not without its faults. Yes, dividing French lensman Joakim Leroy’s monochrome photos into chapters on modernism, mysticism etc works, but the essays preceding them don’t, covering hackneyed old ground. Joakim could also have done with a stricter picture editor. But it’s difficult to be too hard on it. Urban Bangkok does achieve its main goal: “to depict,” he tells us, “the close connection that exists between this city and its population”. And many of these grainy monochromes – be it of clubbers bathed in lasers at an underground nightclub, or a juvenile flower seller on Asok Road staring wistfully at lense – have that stark, poignant quality that colour photos lack and we love.

BUDDHIST TEMPLES OF THAILAND Joe Cummings and Dan White | Marshall Cavendish Editions | 256pp | B1,195 Thailand doesn’t want for wats, or temples – over 40,000 grace this Buddhist land. But an assiduously researched book exploring all the different regional styles? Zilch, nada, not one. This surprising lack led editor Greg Lowe to commission trusty travel scribe Joe Cummings, an expert in all things Gautama related. After handpicking 40 of the most iconic or well-crafted, Joe passed his selection on to photojournalist Dan White, who diligently sped off on his Kawasaki to snap them. Not so much light reading as enlightening reading, the result – a glossy coffeetable book par excellence – is destined to become a Thai-lit best-seller, though serious templehoppers may yearn for a handier format. Aside from honing in on each temple’s murals, Buddha images and whatnot, the book also includes Joe’s take on their evolution, their constituent parts and their role in everyday life. Stupa-endous.

Beautiful Boxer Ekachai Uekrongtham | 2004 | $8.5 from ethaicd.com Cinderella Man in stilettos.The most commercial of this grouping, Boxer is based on the true story of Parinya Charoenphol, or Nong Toom, whose main motivation for knocking heads in the ring was to earn enough money for gender-reassignment surgery. Despite the clumsily episodic and-thenism of the typical biopic (Nong Toom wins temple-fair bout, and then starts training and then sneaks lipstick…) and coy skirting around its subject’s erotic life, Boxer’s refutation of the shrieking-queen stereotype so popular in Thai entertainment, Uekrongtham’s skill in depicting the balletic ferocity of a muay Thai fight, and above all the whole-hearted and sensitive performance of real-life kickboxer Asanee Suwan in the title role make this film a champ. Where else can you see a Rocky-esque training montage that includes fist-wrapping and foundation application? ar ts

Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok

La Bottega de luca

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby. The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community.

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer.You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms! Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.75). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anythingonce daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

$ under B400 $$ B400 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000 a service charge (typically

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 58

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

meal deals

Grossi’s Easter Table, Intercontinental Bangkok

Marathon Buffet, Pullman Bangkok King Power

If the water sports that mark the first day of Songkran, April 13, get to much, go enjoy a marathon buffet at the Pullman’s Cuisine Unplugged instead. This is a superb deal (though we do hope word doesn’t reach bulimia sufferers): B900 net buys you access to an international buffet lasting from 11:30am-10:30pm. During those hours, you can come and go as you please. 02-680-9999

The Intercontinental’s brooding designer Italian will serve a genuine Pasqua a Tavola – a lunch feast commemorating Jesus’ resurrection – on Easter Sunday. Spanning from antipasti, risottos and grilled meats to trays of prosciutti and home-made gelati it’s priced at B1,199++ per person. A free-flow beverage option with Prosecco, Italian aperitifs and local beers is available for B799++. 02-656-0444

River Dining Cruises

Tasty Lamb, Sofitel Bangkok Silom

Easter Sunday Brunch, Marriott Resort & Spa

Gorge on one of the most sumptuous Easter brunches in town, Sun April 4, while your sprogs rummage frantically for Easter eggs in the Trader Vic’s laidback riverside garden. The price, B2,353, includes signature cocktails, draught beer, soft drinks and juices; pay B470 more and you get free-flow wines. Kids cost B940. 02476-0022 ext 1416

Hunker down on slabs of the fine juicy meat from New Zealand, Australia and USA throughout April at the Sofitel’s 37th floor wine bar, V9. Dishes to savour include Australian lamb carpaccio with North African spices and tabbouleh, and braised New Zealand lamb shank in green curry. B500++ and up. 02-238-1991 ext 1321

Grand Pearl

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (ShangriLa) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental). Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last two to three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. Manohra

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

thai cuisine

Did you know?

Khao Niao-Kai Yang (Barbecued Chicken-Steamed Sticky Rice)

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desser ts social affair in or savoury mousses Thailand. are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared. 60

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom kha gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam nua.......spicy beef salad Gai yang..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng phet pet yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng khiao wan gai.....green curry chicken Phad kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sacred basil Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao.......................coconut juice Nam krajeab .............rosella flower juice Nam matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam tao hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha yen............................Thai iced tea with condensed milk bangkok 101

ban

101

thai sweets Kanom Thai

‘Polamai’: Thai Fruits

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

Rose Apple (Chompu)

This fruit, known as the rose or wax apple in English, can easily be mistaken for a pear at first glance due to its similar shape. The skin however is noticeably waxy, and its colour ranges from pink to almost black, with the light green variety being the most commonly found in Thailand, with those from Phetchaburi and Chantaburi provinces being the most famous. The flesh is crunchy though not as firm as a regular apple and has a sweet, sharp flavour, and as with many other local fruits it is very often consumed with a spiced sugar dip.The fruit is a great source for fiber and vitamin C, and is believed to help alleviate fevers and pains, while its seeds have also been known to be effective in treating various ailments including diabetes and diarrhea.

The word Kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a Kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This!

Khao Chae With the blazing summer sun about to come full blast, it’s the perfect time to sample this refreshing treat, which literally translates as “soaked rice”. Originally concocted by the Mon people as a sacrifice to the gods, then later adopted by the royal court, it’s made by pouring rice into jasmine water and ice and is served with various condiments including sweet fish, fried shrimp paste, and boiled vegetables (see p.67 to track down restaurants serving it through April).

Try also:

Coconut (Ma-Praow), Guava (Farang), Banana (Kluay), Papaya (Malakor), Mangosteen (Mong-Koot), Durian (Tu-Rian), Mango (Ma Muang), Rambutan (Ngoh), Lychee (Lyn-Chee) bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

treet food is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. So much so that if you took away the city’s rot khen (mobile vendor carts) it would begin to taste rather bland. Some open for lunch only; others open all night. Though common to every street, knowing which carts sell what, when and where is a skill many Bangkokians pride themselves on. Short on time? Then make for one of the following hotspots, where clusters of vendors sell good feeds for pocket-change.

ealikte

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

Boat Noodles

Occasionally when taking a trip along the canals of old Bangkok or its surrounding regions, it is still possible to encounter boat noodles in their original habitat, being prepared and sold on a sampan paddled by a vendor. These days however the cooking station is more often than not located on solid ground – not water. One of the most famous of these boat noodle stalls in Bangkok is Toy Kuay Tiow Rua, or Miss Toy Boat Noodles. An open-air, tent-style shop near the city’s Victory Monument, its noodles are legendary for their size and spice, not to mention the gritty klong-side atmosphere in which they’re served. Traditionally, because long-tail boats can only carry limited ingredients before sinking, boat noodles are served in petite portions. At Toy Kuay Tiow Rua this tradition remains – I’ve been known to stack up five used bowlfuls in one sitting! Fortunately they don’t cost the earth: one bowl costs B12, a take-away bag B25. Dinky portions aside, the endearing feature here is the taste. Most boat noodles are served with beef or pork, soupy or dry. Here I like the soup version, kuay tiow rua nam, because I enjoy spooning down the hot, murky, herbally dark coloured soup together with the noodles and pak boong (morning glory). Unlike most boat noodle stalls, here there’s no need to add anything besides maybe a splash of chilli vinegar – it’s already been seasoned with deep fried garlic, chili, fish sauce and sugar before it arrives. Some Thais also like it with crispy fried pork skin, for an extra fatty taste. Address: Toy Kuay Tiow Rua is situated on Ratchawiti Soi 18, near the Victory Monument area. It’s open 11am-5pm everyday. 62

food & drinks

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to revellers. Sample the delicate, hand-made egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am. Corner of Silom/Convent Road The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues. Pratunam Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark.There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door. Soi Rambutri (near Khao San Road) Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the stall in front of Swenson’s. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls. bangkok 101

restaurants Reflections

Krua Aroy Aroy

THAI Krua Aroy Aroy (map B4) Pan Rd., Silom (opp. Indian Temple) | BTS surasak | 02-635-2365 | 8am – 8:30pm (close every 2nd & 4th Sunday) | $ If the wafts of incense and religious chants drifting in from the adjacent Hindu temple suggest Khrua Aroi Aroi is more special than your average shophouse kitchen, it is the food that confirms it. This slim hole-in-the-wall filled with nothing more than plastic tables, ladies in aprons and one dozing cat, serves some of the most scintillating Thai fastfood we know of, from nam prik pla dtoo to a benchmark-setting khao soy. Best of all are its long-stewed regional curries, especially when spooned over Khrua Aroi Aroi’s silky kanom jeen (rice noodles). Recommendations include the dark, strongly spiced curry nam prik made from golden beans and prawns and served with banana leaf buds, raw morning glory stems and their deep fried leaves. Another: the massaman curry. Though not served with beef (in respect of the Hindu temple), we’re besotted: its sweet, rich and creamy, swimming with hunks of tender chicken and potato.They also do a very delicately flavoured khao kluk kapi, stirfried rice with shrimp paste, though it’s only served on Thursdays. We could go on, but you get the gist: there ain’t a bad dish in here.

ครัวอร่อยอร่อย ถ.ปั้น สีลม (ตรงข้ามวัดแขก) bangkok 101

Reflections (map C2) Soi Ari 3, Paholyothin 7 | BTS Ari | 02270-3341 | www.reflectionspartyrestaurant.com | 11am – 11:30pm | $ The restaurant clad in kitsch is a Bangkok cliché, and more often than not a mask behind which a dicey kitchen hides. But Reflections is so winsomely done out in candycolours and out-there art that you forgive its stylistic sins. And besides, it was here first: it’s been a Soi Ari neighbourhood – one of the last bastions of creative city hip – staple for years. The modern Thai house, with its guitarist strumming honeyed ditties at the far end, is a sweet spot. The peaceful garden out front even better: plastic mangoes dangle whimsically from the bushes and a light-box contraption swirls magical dots of light every which way. Soaking up Soi Ari’s calm, 70sin-suburbia vibes over a brew here, while flash cars coast home to their ornate-gated townhouses, is one of our top downtime pursuits. So much so that we can’t believe we just told you about it. Sealing our affections for Reflections is the proper Thai food, ranging from pleasantly astringent soups to delicious spicy steamed seabass and fresh, tangy Thai salads.

SUPATRA RIVER HOUSE (map A3) 288 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd | 02-411-0305 | 11am-2:30pm, 5:3011pm | $$ (set menus up to B900 – 1,500+) This often-crowded place combines all things Thai: dinner theatre, breathtaking views of Bangkok’s major sights, and a wooden riverside restaurant serving good Thai food. Arrive before sunset – and stick to the terrace – to watch the spectacle of the illuminated Grand Palace. Upon request, a wooden barge picks you up from any riverside hotel. The convincing food is classic Thai, but somewhat watered down to please foreign tongues. Expect the usual suspects: pomelo salad, soft shell crab, tom yam goong. Lonely Planet auther Joe Cummings says that Mick Jagger once ran into Angelina Jolie here, but you should rather expect Asian tour groups on lunch stops. Yet, it’s a neat way to spend an evening, especially on Saturday night when Thai folk pays are performed – on these nights, reservations are essential.

สุภัทรา ริเวอร์เฮ้าส์ ซ.วัดระฆัง

Supatra river house

รีเฟลคชั่นส์ ซ.อารีย์ 3

food & drinks

Food&Drinks Anan Lao

AN AN LAO (map E4) 331/1-3 Soi Thonglor, Sukhumvit 55 (between Thonglor 15-17) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-712-6859 | Mon-Fri (10am2pm, 5pm-10pm), Sat-Sun (10am10pm) | $ There’s bobby dazzler dining galore on Soi Thonglor, but the restaurant we’d bet our lunch money will be here for years to come is plain old An An Lao. The reason: served within its four simple walls, dotted with big round banquet tables, is some of Bangkok’s best ThaiChinese food.The family who runs it hails from Betong, a cool mountainous district in the far southern province of Yala. And it is the specialties they brought with them, over 20 years ago, long before the J Avenues and yuppies moved in, that are most intriguing.They include stir-fried watercress, guay deow lot (barbequed pork in flat rice noodles) and tofu with pork. The don’t misses though are the Betong chicken – steamed, served cold and very lean because it’s free-range; and the whole Peking Duck, yours, how you want it, for a respectable B350.These, the slim bill, and the bubbly manager/mother, who works the tables, explain An An Lao’s diverse pulling power. Extended families, media folk, Japanese expats, even celebrity masterchef McDang all feast here regularly.

อัน อัน เหลา ทองหล่อ ระหว่างซ. 15 และ 17

INTERNATIONAL The Oyster Bar (map C4) 395 Narathiwat Soi | 24, 02-2124809 | BTS Chong Nonsi (10 minutes by taxi) | Tue-Sat 6-10pm; Sun noon – 3pm, 6pm -10pm For over two decades, Marinelli Shellfish has been exporting the finest catches from the sea to the world. After working his magic behind the scenes for years, Bill Marinelli opened The Oyster Bar, his first fully-owned restaurant in Asia, back in early 09 – to roars of approval from the city’s seafood lovers. You can still taste the ocean in their famous oysters, which are shucked right in front of you by staff who are more than happy to guide virgins along. If you seriously aren’t up

food & drinks

for sampling them raw, try the delicate sake poached oysters with hijiki butter. The food on offer evolves on a regular basis depending on what’s fresh, and chef Brad Bouchardt encourages you to order off menu. Permanent fixtures include the creamy shrimp bisque, clams casino, and a seafood platter for two that includes a selection of fresh oysters, clams, prawns, king crab and much more. To wash that down, this is probably the only place in town to offer wine by the half-glass, meaning you can have champagne for B70! On Sundays, there’s also an all-you-can-eat seafood deal for B1,500 per person with free-flowing mimosas.

ดิ ออยสเตอร์ บาร์ นราธิวาสราชนครินทร์ ซ.24

bangkok 101

Panorama

EAT ME (map C4) 1/6 Soi Pipat 2, Convent Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-238-0931 | 6pm-1am | $$ A restaurant-cum-art gallery can make one’s gastro-expectations flutter with anxiety, but Eat Me has married the two successfully. Often labeled as “fusion,” we’d rather brand the fantastic food as Western with global influences. The small, seven-year-old restaurant is so popular that booking ahead is always highly advised. You’ll

bangkok 101

share the bright yet intimate space with amorous couples and impressive art on the walls – the curator is one of Bangkok’s most influential and lives testing out his fresh fledglings on Eat Me’s patrons. The short, often-changing menu might include a classic tenderloin steak and rather unusual double roast cherry duck with cranberry mashed potatoes. Try out the tables on the dark open air terrace; they ooze romance.

อีท มี ซ.พิพัฒน์ 2 ถ.คอนแวนต์

food & drinks

PANORAMA (map C4) Pan Pacific Bangkok, Rama IV Rd | 02632-9000 | www.panpacific.com | BTS Saladaeng | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm10.30pm | $$$$ The Pan Pacific Hotel’s Panorama has several sections to drink and dine in, including glass-fronted open kitchens, a barista style coffee area, whisky bar and The Deck. The last is the most atmospheric, partitioned behind a glass and wood screen, where casual seating, dimmed lights, and a low-slung drinks counter lend a different mood to the brightly lit main room. The windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok, so smokers are welcome – I ate dessert here and found no smoke intrusion. The international menu is big on quality imported product, exemplified by rack of Colorado lamb, in which the flesh is studded with tiny nuggets of fat that add flavour and succulence. A simple, semi-cooked, sourish ratatouille cuts the richness. If I’ve eaten tastier lamb. I don’t remember it, although you may wince at the B2,000 price tag. Another hit is the Foie Gras Declination: four corners of a square plate housed by pan fried foie gras, foie gras terrine, foie gras ice cream and a fresh fig from Chiang Mai.

รร.แพนแปซิฟิค ถ.พระราม 4

Food&Drinks

chic bangkok Cheryl Tseng

Aubergine

Aubergine is situated in a pleasant old house surrounded with lush foliage. In the rear, an idyllic terrace with terra cotta waterfall is filled with locals and expatriates at nights. Once a residence and embassy quarter, this seventy-year-old classic has retained its dignified architecture and stature. The rooms have been fine tuned into a dining area with crisp linen-covered tables dotted with red BEST FOR French and black dining chairs. The interior WHERE 71/1 Saladaeng extrudes a homey ambiance with Road Soi 1/1 (map C4), 02dark teak floors and ocher walls 234-2226, www.aubergine. lined with eclectic oil paintings.There in.th BTS Sala Daeng OPEN are private rooms upstairs, perfect Mon-Fri (11:30am-2:30pm & for small gatherings. Specials are on 5:30pm-11pm), Sat-Sun (noonchalkboard and the modest-priced 3pm, 5:30pm-11pm) menu consists of classic renditions, such as duck confit, pan-fried foie gras, frog legs in garlic butter, and pastas. The perfectly cooked pan-fried crispy salmon with mash potato and topped with shoe string carrot is outstanding. Finish it off with the wonderful apple tart or Suzette crepe. The wine cellar focuses on an interesting selection of French and Italian and is personally edited by the restaurant owner. Chic Restaurants & Bars Bangkok is a compact food and style lover’s bible showcasing Bangkok’s most fabulous venues for dining and drinking. Global gourmand Cheryl Tseng leads you to the capital’s finest food, and its most striking décor. Each month we take a sneak peek inside, and share a taste here. A definite must-have for travelling foodies, get yourself a copy of the new 3rd edition at local book shops, or visit www.chicasia.com.

food & drinks

bangkok 101

Bourbon Street

BELLA NAPOLI (map D4) 3/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-0405 | Mon – Fri 11:30am – 2:30pm, 5:30pm – 11:30pm, Sat-Sun 11am – 11:30pm | $ Forget about flair for a sec. Think of that perfect Naples-style pizza and its crispy thin crust. Now grab a cab or hoof it just a few minutes walk from BTS Phrom Phong to Bella Napoli. This quaint and casual, long standing eatery is packed out nightly with a fun crowd, but ask a local foodie and he’ll point out the Italian five-star chefs working in Bangkok – and they’re all devouring those pizzas. If you haven’t made reservations you might be forced to wait outside, but it’s well worth it for the pizzas! Try anything you feel like; from the simple, spicy Pizza Diavolo to the Penna Lungha with its Parma ham tree, these are – for most Bangkokians, anyway – among the best pies in town.The meaty mains, pastas and the imaginative antipasti buffet are worth a try, but we come here for one thing only.

เบลล่า นาโพลี ถ.สุขุมวิท 31

KHAO CHAE

AMERICAN Bourbon Street (map D4) 29/4-6 Washington Square, Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Phong | www. bourbonstbkk.com | 02-259-0328-9 | 7am-1am | $$ The neighbourhood around Bourbon Street seems to draw inspiration from the restaurant’s namesake – this 20-plus year veteran of Bangkok’s restaurant scene is set amidst a sweaty, bawdy entertainment strip built for American R&R during the Vietnam war. Once you plow past the neighborhood’s neon glare, you will find a restaurant with a casual, big-heated vibe – grab a seat at the giant old-school bar, or park yourself in a hefty chair, perfect a sprawl after you’ve overindulged. And overindulge you will, with Americansized portions of fantastic thick jumbo, zesty homemade sausages, and crawfish trucked in from the restaurant’s Kanchanaburi farm. Blackened fish, so often crusted in charred spices to hide

bangkok 101

เบอร์บอน สตรีท สุขุมวิท ซ.22

Oriental

If the waters of Songkran aren’t beating the heat, partake of another hot-weather tradition in Thailand – khao chae: rice (khao) soaked (chae) in cold rose-scented water. This chilled porridge, thought to have originated in the court of King Rama II, is accompanied by a variety of side dishes and condiments. These include shrimp paste balls (luuk kapi), chilli peppers stuffed with minced pork (phrik yuak), deepfried shallots stuffed with fish (hawn thawt), Chinese radish fried with egg (hau chai poe) and beef fried with palm sugar (nuea phat waan). Khao chae is a great way to cool off and a “musteat” during the hot months. Here are a few hotels where you’ll be able to sample it through April (unless stated otherwise):

The Sukhothai

its lack of freshness, is succulent here and full of flavour. Save room for the Bananas Foster, lit up at the table – the gooey caramely result is glorious gluttony. Popular draws: free wifi, local and international newspapers, the late-night hours, and the fantastic oyster bar.

n Thai on 4 @ Amari Watergate Bangkok B310++ sets from 1-14 April. Reservations: 02-653-9000 ext. 357 n Na Aroon @ Ariyasomvilla Delicious vegetarian sets for B235++ /B275++. Reservations: www. ariyasom.com, 02-254-8800 n Spice Market @ Four Seasons 6 dish sets B700++. Reservations: 02-126-8866 ext. 1233/4 n Sala Rim Naam @ Mandarin Oriental Thai celebrity chef Vichit Makura offers sets all month. Reservations: 02-659-9000 n Celadon @ The Sukhothai Throughout April, B750++ per set. Reservations: 02-344-8888

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Neighbourhood Nosh: sam yan Each month we stake out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the nitty gritty in an easily digestible, bite-size format. Rama1

Natio Stadiu nal MBK m

ong Roa d

Soi Chula

Road

longkorn

Prayathai

Banthat th

Road

Soi Chula 4 longkorn 20 Soi Chu5la longkorn 22 Soi Chula longkorn 24 Soi Chula lo Soi Chula ngkorn 26 longkorn 28 6

Ram

Soi Chula

longkorn

Roa

If it’s cheap and delicious food you’re after, heading to college areas is usually a good bet, and Chulalongkorn University is no exception, with its address in the Sam Yan area teaming with a treasure trove of eateries which has been feeding students for generations. Find Chula Soi 5 on the side of the National Stadium and walk past the dozens of sporting goods stores until you reach the first intersection. On either side of this junction are two round-the-clock restaurants, Choke Dee (1) and Choke Chai (2), serving stacks of Dim Sum. Just pick and choose from the vast selection sitting on the display counters and they’ll steam it right up for you.

Further down on Soi 5 is the Suan Luang market, which is open in the evenings. You’ll know your there when you see absolutely nothing but food, food, food, and more food in every direction. Charoenporn (3), right opposite the big parking lot, serves pork satay skewers, a dish of which it claims to have been the very first to offer in Thailand. Right at the corner of Chula Soi 20 is Por Pang Ping (4), which serves traditional Thai coffees and teas as well as thick-cut toasts with all sorts of toppings from chocolate to chilli paste to coconut custard. Turn left into Soi 20 and look for Peng (5), the second shop on the left and the self-proclaimed “King of Noodles”. Try one of their tasty woktossed noodles with chicken, though be prepared to wait as it is always full and he makes every single plate one serving at a time. Continue down Soi 5 until you food & drinks

reach the police station and you’ll find the brand new Sam Yan Market (6), offering fresh meat, seafood and vegetables. On the upper level is a food court with about a dozen shops selling quick and cheap steaks. Definitely the most famous of all shops in this area is Jok Sam Yan (7) – but which one? There’s been much debate about which of the two shops, trading under the same name, is the “real” one. The answer is actually both. Selling their respective versions of an utterly delicious pork congee recipe, the two shops, one on Chula Soi 11 and the other near the entrance to Chula Soi 52 on Phaya Thai road are actually owned by cousins. Both are open for business early in the morning and then again in the evening and have their legion of die-hard followers. We’d go with the latter if held at gun point; however if you’re still hungry, why not try them both?

bangkok 101

Food courts

Baan Somtum

Much as we love cheap and tasty street food, non-wobbly tables and a little air-conditioning can go a long way. That’s why the Thai god of grub invented food courts! MBK: The Food Center (6F, 10am9pm) is cheap, chaotic and jampacked with yummy Thai grub. Most dishes are around the B40 mark. Just below the Food Centre is the Fifth Food Avenue (5F, 10am-9:30pm), a more upmarket collection of independent eateries (figure B150 for a dish) with good variety of international food, including Greek, seafood and Mexican options. Siam Centre: If you have a thing for molded plastic seats and vivid orange colour schemes, then baby, you’ve just hit the motherlode. Migraine-inducing décor aside, Food for Fun (4F, 9am-9pm) is a cheap and cheerful spot where B40-50 gets you a huge pile of reasonable Thai grub and the chance to tut at spiky-haired teenagers. Paragon: You can stare at a table-top aquarium while you munch your noodles; but you’re paying about B70 for those noodles. And they ain’t all that. The Food Court (B1, 10am10pm) dining hall gets packed too, making seats hard to come by and the atmosphere far from relaxing. CentralWorld: Flavour (7F, 10am-10pm) at the back of the Food Hall supermarket is really comfortable and has some cracking options at good prices. Figure on B50 a dish. Also in CentralWorld, on the seventh floor of Zen department store, is Food Loft (10am-10pm). Easily the most successful attempt at a mid-range food court, this plush, glass-walled offers up top-notch international fare. Try the Vietnamese noodle salad at B110. There’s another branch of Food Loft at Central Chitlom. Emporium: Probably the nicest food court on the mall-beat is the Food Court (5F, 10am-9:45) at Emporium. Clean, decked out like a library and with pleasant views over Benjasiri Park, the Food Court has lots of good Thai/ Chinese standards priced at B50-60. bangkok 101

Isaan Eats

Isaan food, Northeast Thailand’s unadulterated cuisine, is everywhere. Bangkok’s streets teem with rot khen (vendor carts) and no-frills restaurants serving comfort foods to the city’s huge Isaan migrant population: dishes like laab (ground-meat salad), gai yang (grilled chicken) and som tum (green papaya salad). Not that they’re the only fans. Though many draw the line at nibbling insects, every strata of Bangkok society – from homesick taxidrivers through to their Prada-clad passengers – has its fans. Indeed, many rank this sweat-raising blend of Lao and Thai cooking (which uses sticky rice, fresh vegetables, chillis, herbs and whatever creature’s within grasp) as just about the best Thai culinary creation going. Almost every sidewalk has a lip-smacking Isaan kitchen (here gastrogems spring from the grittiest of setups), but a meal at one of the following will have you vowing that your days of tart-sweet Thai food are over. n Baan Somtum 9/1 Soi Srivieng, nr Sathorn Road | BTS Surasak | 02-6303485 | 11am-10pm | $ This squat but smart townhouse serves a staggering 22 types of somtum, as well as haunting Isaan soups, at pocket-friendly prices. n Café de Laos 19 Silom Soi 19 | 02-635-2338 | 11am-2pm & 5-10pm | $$ Who said you have to forgo ambience entirely? At Café de Laos you get a posh setting and rustic Issan nosh.You’ll pay more than you would streetside, though. n Isaan Rot Det 3/5-6 Soi Rangnam | 02-246-4579 | BTS Victory Monument | $ The best northeastern fare on Rangnam (a soi renowned for it) is served at this no-frills shophouse. Explosive som tum, crisp vegetables and lots of spice-flushed local faces. n Café Chilli Ground Floor, Siam Paragon | 02-610-9877 | www.cafechilli. com | $ Zingy Isaan delights with hi-so ambitions (think grilled lamb rack with nam jim jaew dip) meet air-conditioned mall. Perfect for when a sweaty you won’t do. n Soi Polo Fried Chicken 137/1-2 Soi Polo,Th Withayu | 02-655-8489 | $ Golden-brown, succulent and blanketed in crisp-fried garlic, their gai thowd (deep fried chicken) is legendary. Also recommended: their catfish laab and tom saep soup. 69

Food&Drinks

FRENCH

Brio

ITALIAN Brio (map B4) Marriott Resort & Spa, Charoennakorn Rd. , Samrae Thonburi | BTS Saphan Taksin, then take hotel ferri | 02-4760022 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10:30pm | $$$ There’s a sense of adventure in taking a boat down river to Brio Italian restaurant. In just 15 minutes from Saphan Taksin pier, you’re in the riverside garden setting of the Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa; another world from downtown Bangkok. This family-style trattoria has the perfect ambiance to enjoy the regional specialties of south Tyrol, home of chef Antonio Facchinetti. The cellar like interior is enhanced by terra cotta floors, sandstone walls and a wrought iron chandelier. Flickering candles mimic the flames of the central pizza oven that casts a warm glow around the room. It’s a cosy atmosphere to enjoy the kind of Mama’s favourites that Italy was reared on. Take a selection of Italian cold cuts – various hams, salamis, marinated vegetables – eaten with fresh pizza bread slices, then move on to an excellent salad of grilled Alp cheese melted into radicchio with balsamic reduction.They’re good starters before superior spaghetti with spicy Wagyu meatballs, enriched with tomato cream truffle sauce and mascarpone cheese. To accompany, try one of the ‘Super Tuscan’ reds from the comprehensive wine list. Brio is a welcome Thonburi addition, a super little restaurant, and a great reason to get ‘out of town’ for a couple of hours.

แมริออทรีสอร์ทแอนด์สปา ถ.เจริญนคร

Café Tartine (map C3) 4 Athenee Residence Retail Space, Soi Ruamrudee | BTS Ploenchit | 02-1685464 | www.cafetartine.net | Mon-Sat 8am-8-pm, Sunday brunch 8am-2pm | $ This bright, Parisian-style sidewalk café on Soi Ruam Rudee is proving such a hit that only months are opening it’s branching out into Bangkok’s CentralWorld.Why do Perrier-quaffing Francophiles love it so? The creamy, old world-style interior filled with close-knit pine tables and a bustling counter certainly helps, being one of the more elegant beat-the-heat spots in town. Agathe greeting arrivals in French adds to the charm too. But no, it’s the pithy menu of no-fuss French baked fare – croissants, quiches, salads, sandwiches etc – that has won over everyone from pram-wheeling expat wives and office workers to ravenous journos like ourselves. Tuck into their cheesy French onion soup served in crock-pot, before hunkering down on an assertively-flavoured sandwich – each one a whole fresh-baked baguette served with green salad. Our pick: the Poulet Chevre (marinated chicken with strong goat’s cheese and black olives), though according to their recent Facebook page poll everyone’s a winner. The café also offers aperitifs and, if you’re in a rush, everything is available to-go (though Agathe advises that the hot and runny croque monsiers and such like don’t travel well). Café Tartine is also open for Sunday brunch, when the lone long pine table, perfect for accommodating a Ricard-sipping family and friends, really comes into its own.

แอทธินี เรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี

Cafe Tartine

food & drinks

Gyunoya

JAPANESE Gyunoya (map C4) Soi Thaniya (Opposite Yada Bldg) | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-632-8506 | 10am2am | $ The choices on the menu are as limited as the space in this shoebox of a restaurant tucked away in a discreet corner of that otherwise not so discreet Nippon neon stompingground, Thaniya. With little more than a bright orange counter and about a dozen or so stools, the staff members, who obviously cannot be claustrophobic, cram themselves into a narrow space with barely just enough room to squeeze by each other. There are only a handful of dishes to choose from the main menu, namely a sukiyaki beef or pork rice bowl, pork bowl with extra kimchi, rice with tuna sashimi, Japanese curry rice and udon. The limited choices do mean that the food basically flies out at you in half a blink at Gyunoya – anyone who’s visited Tokyo will probably notice the resemblance to Yoshinoya, a prolific franchise restaurant with identical colours and logos. But imitation or not, we were pleasantly surprised to find that the beef bowls in Silom’s Japanese enclave somehow actually come out on top.

กิวโนย่า ซ.ธนิยะ

bangkok 101

featured

restaurant

LOS CABOS

Where 1 Sukhumvit Soi 14 | 02-653-3900 | www.loscabosbangkok. com BTS Asok (exit 4) Price $$

When Los Cabos opened back in February it turned heads, mostly on account of its stunning building, a big century-old timber townhouse that stands just off Sukhumvit Road, amid tatty lowrises and gnarled banyan trees. We were taken aback then when we rocked up at this sprawling former French ambassador’s residence, now a pastelpainted Cantina decked out in Mexicana, only to find it empty. A stinker of a Wednesday night or is Mexican simply not a big restaurant filler? Alongside your fajitas, tacos, enchiladas and “big-as-your-face” buritos, San Diegan owner/chef Rod Vaughn serves North-of-the-border, Cali-Mex specials, using imported ingredients like ancho chilies and his outdoor barbeque when needed. Some disappoint, like the watery baked oysters with spinach Chipotle salsa and parmesan cheese glaze; others very good, most notably the rack of pork ribs (Rob co-founded the Great American Rib Company, so they should be). Dry rubbed with brown sugar, pepper, cumin and other spices, then grilled on a mesquite wood skillet for five hours, they have a delicious smoky tang. They, like all specials, come with two sides that includes spicy fries to Mexican beans and rice. If we sound somewhat ambivalent about the food (and we are – B295 plus for a main ain’t cheap after all), we’re much more upbeat about the margaritas. Though the selections slim compared to Bangkok’s other Mexicans, namely Coyote’s, here they’re made with XXX Siglo Terinta tequila and much, much fiercer.

ลอส คาโบซ์ สุขุมวิท ซ.14

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Vietnamese

Red

INDIAN Red (map E4) 235/2 Soi Paidee-Madee, Sukhumvit 53| BTS Thong Lo | 02-259-7590 | daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight | $$ Indian restaurants in Bangkok are typically traditional establishments, catering to a predominantly Indian clientele. Luckily, Gagan Anand is out to change perceptions of Indian food as a “local” cuisine. The 29-year-old chef at Red is immensely ambitious, and has the talent and experience to back it up. Red features dishes from all over

dim-sum featured

Liu

India – juicy, impeccably marinated kebabs from the North, highly spiced curries and seafood from the South. Anand even ventures into Indian interpretations of pasta and risotto (the mushroom-laden version of the latter is a must-try). The EastmeetsWest dishes, creative drinks, and innovations like flambéed featherlight gulab jamun dumplings sidestep fusion confusion entirely. Ananda’s cooking is both daring and reverent, making him the perfect ambassador for contemporary Indian cuisine.

เรด ซ. ไปดีมาดี สุขุมวิท 5

A funky room deserves a funky menu – and Liu’s at the Conrad Hotel fits the bill. The bustling, neo-Chinese venue is usually thronging with embassy workers and businesspeople come lunchtime. No wonder, considering the dim-sum deal– an all-you-can-eat affair rounded out by soup, noodles, and other main WHERE Conrad Bangkok 87 dishes. The dim sum here are Wireless Road, Phatumwan | huge and succulent – no frozen, 02-690-9999 BTS Ploenchit squishy numbers – and the kitchen (map C3) OPEN 11am-2:30pm turns out some innovative options, PRICE Mon-Fri 520++,680++, marked by a pair of chopsticks Sat 580++, 780++, Sun 1,500++, on the menu for “Funky Dish.” 1,9800++, 2,500++ These include foie gras topped pork dumpling and Thai-Chinese fried seafood in cream sauce. Service can be hit and miss when there’s a big lunch crowd, but if you bring a bit of patience, you’ll find much to enjoy. Reservations a must on weekends.

LE DALAT INDOCHINE (map D3) 14 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok | 02-661-7967 | 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10pm | www.ledalatindochinebkk.com | $$ Oliver Stone sometimes dined at this elegant Vietnamese surrounded by lush gardens. Maybe he enjoys the lipkissing herbal hit that is a meal here. Or maybe the movie director just sees next project potential: the ageing pictures that line the walls of this wooden two-storey house tell of the affair between the owner’s mother and father (a Vietnamese beauty and the son of the French governor of Laos) during the last gasps of French Indochina. Ponder their screenplayworthy lovestory over a cocktail in the classic indoors terrace bar, then amble into the bourgeois dining room – all blue and white tables, ornamental trees, Lotus leaf vases, attentive staff in traditional ao dai. Our fave dishes, most served with bowls of raw herbs, include appetizer Bo la lop (marinated brochettes of beef wrapped in wild betel leaves); the Bouillabaisse-like Bun Rieu soup (a Gallic-tinged alternative to obvious pho); and Cha Ca, a fragrant portion of turmeric Red Snapper coated in dill and served with rice noodles and a sweet tamarind sauce. Finish off with a flane brulee and a good giggle at the salacious toilets.

เลอดาลัต สุขุมวิท 23

Le Dalat

รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

food & drinks

bangkok 101

runching is big in Bangkok. All five-star hotels and respectable cafés do them. Some are kid-friendly, others are strictly adult.You can get tipsy at some, while others focus on music. Curing a hangover? Need to eat al fresco? We offer you a sampling of Bangkok’s best.

brunching

featured

brunch The China House

If Sunday brunchathons were judged on looks alone, The China House’s decadent offering would surely be numero uno. It’s Sino-stunning. Think 1930s Shanghai dancehall, or Raise the Red Lantern – all lacquered panel walls, intricate fretwork, deep mahogany furniture and glowing red lanterns. But is this Jasmine scented, opium dream setting a pretty diversion? Or the prelude to something just as Where Mandarin Oriental, 48 special? In any other hotel we’d be Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000 skeptical… but this is the Oriental Open Sundays noon-3pm Price and, true to form, the Old Dame B980++ buffet & main meal with tea; doesn’t disappoint. For B980++, B1,380++ buffet & main meal with free Chef Kong Khai Meng presents flow of tea, soft drinks and wine a haute Chinese buffet that whets the appetite as much as the swoony interiors seduce the eyes. Plates of chilled drunken chicken. Hong Kong-style suckling pig. Dim sum, from classic siew mai to innovations like deep fried mango shrimp fritters. All ultrafresh and flavoursome. Don’t forget to beckon over one of the female staff dressed in dark, sexy cheongsams and order off the trim menu. After all, you wouldn’t want to miss out on mains like wok-fried garoupa fillet with lotus root and black bean, now would you? Free flowing teas and desserts come included, as does a balloon wizard/magician who will keep your little emperor (or empress) sitting spellbound. And, for an extra B400, you can wash down those steamed scallops with fine-wine. Endless glasses of it! Outstandingly opulent in every respect.

รร.แมนดาริน โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล48

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

tea

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea

featured

Peony House

Bangkok, for all its din and squalor, is still capable of the odd serene moment. And nowhere is this truer than when you’re plonked on a plump sofa, cradling a calming cuppa inside one of its standalone teahouses. One of our favourites, Peony House, is a dainty little daydream in white, mere minutes stroll from the often quite maddening business/tourist district Silom. Soft white walls, peonyflower paintings (by the owner’s grandma), faux-Victorian motifs – it’s as twee as little Lucy’s dollhouse. But it works. Plus, out back, there’s a leafy garden perfect for cozying up with your copy of The Joy Luck Club in, and a gallery plastered in Sino watercolour landscapes and portraits, all Where 132/3 Sala Daeng available for purchase. With all this, you could Soi 1, 02-235-5369 BTS easily come here, sip mineral water and still Sala Daeng Open Mon-Fri leave feeling soothed. But you’d be missing out. 7am-8pm, Sat-Sun 9am – 5pm There are 38 varieties of tea available, 18 from Price pot of tea B65-110 China, 18 blended teas from Germany, and two from Japan for good measure. And if slurping sumptuous-sounding brews like Madame Butterfly (a rapturous blend of green tea, sunflower blossoms and peach) and Vanilla Romance doesn’t sound like your taste-buds idea of heaven, there’s also filter coffee from Nespresso and Lavazza. Cakes, like white chocolate cheesecake, are the rather enticing cherry-on-top.

พีโอนี เฮาส์ ศาลาแดง ซ.1

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

■ Sukhumvit Q BAR 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-2am The ever popular Sukhumvit nightclub serves mighty tasty quesadilla, burgers, ribs, khao mun gai, beef jerky and schwarma and has a cool, al fresco terrace area perfect for enjoying them on with friends.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either. Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you. Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-391-9634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half restaurant, half art gallery with innovative Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

dishes like curried crab crêpes. Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya. Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine ■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare. ■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you’re around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.96) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.62). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Coyote on Convent Sivadon Building | 1/2 Convent Rd | 02631-2325 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Tex-Mex Fare with an endless list of margaritas.

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier.

Bug and Bee18 Silom Rd. | 02-2338118 | BTS Sala Daeng | open 24 hours | www.bugandbee.com Four storey café offers up Thai and fusion

Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Thai and International Food

bangkok 101

late-night dining

food & drinks

Sunrise Tacos

Bug and Bee

Food&Drinks

sweet treats

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

The Fabulous Bar & Dessert Café

While loud, sweaty, obnoxious bars are Khao San Road’s specialty, there are a few beacons of understated cool hidden amidst the tasteless neon hustle. Most are tucked down little, blink-and-you’ll-miss-‘em alleys and aimed at the city’s babyfaced taste-makers: the young Thai indie crowd. The newest, The Fabulous Bar & Dessert Café, is a stylish dessert and cocktail stop located in the woody house that used to be café-cum-shop, It’s Happened to be a Closet. Looks-wise, it’s Central Perk from Friends meets retro-fetishising hipster pad. Commodious sofas abound in this multi-level room with a smart red paint job as does chunky 70s hi-fi equipment, black and white Beatles photos and shelves stacked with Jackie Collins novels and old Latin Jazz LPs, among other zany bits-n-bobs the co-owner picked up at the Ratchada Night Market. The overall effect is WHERE Khao San Rd., Talad refreshingly un-Khao-San-like, especially as Yod, 081-927-3376 OPEN there’s jazz, fridge-cool air-con and – get this – 10am – midnight PRICE $ all they serve is cocktails, coffee and cake. Pretty darn sumptuous and generously proportioned homemade cake at that. Leading the way on the 6-strong menu is the Choc Satin, a molten lava cake oozing with sticky, sumptuous dark Swiss chocolate. Coming in a close second is the Fabulous Toast: an almost 2 inch thick slice of toast harbouring globules of vanilla ice cream and a little pot of maple syrup. Monthly specials, like the choc parfait, are also available – join their Facebook group for salivating photo updates.

เดอะแฟบบูลัสบาร์แอนด์เดสเสิร์ท ถ.ข้าวสาร

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

Buffet Venues ■ TASTE Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | 6am – 11pm | Breakfast B650++, Lunch 790++, Dinner B1,100++ ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | noon-2.30pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ Panorama Restauarant Pan Pacific Bangkok | 02-632-9000 | 6:30am – 10:30am, 11:30am – 2:30pm | Breakfast 695 net, Lunch 690++ ■ No.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ Lord jim’s buffet Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ Orchid Café Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ Citi Bistro Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10pm | lunch B650net, dinner B1,300net

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

all you can eat

featured

KING KONG

buffet

This yakiniku joint – DIY Japanese BBQ grill – is one of the busiest in town, its funky green-on-black setting and nifty BBQ stoves packed in the evenings with famished Soi Lang Suan office workers. What’s the drill? After being handed a two-sided hard-plastic menu, you’re given two hours to griddle endless plates of fresh meat and veg. Before you start thumping your chest in protest, let’s put that in context: unless you have an appetite the size of King Kong himself, two hours will not, repeat, not prove insufficient. Staff deliver these chosen plates at speed and the amount of food, neatly played out on them, conducive to gluttony. Then there’s the quality. The perky beef cuts (thin WHERE Lang Suan Road, 02slices of French ribeye beef, short ribs and 254-5177 BTS Chidlom OPEN sirloin tip etc) for instance look flavoursome 11am-11pm PRICE B450 per and succulent – and, once cooked to your person specification and dipped in tare sauce, taste it. Ditto the Norwegian salmon slivers, the baby kitten-sized Thai river prawns, the eryngii mushrooms, the tongue-tingling kimchi (Korean pickled cabbage) – everything, in fact, looks and tastes ultra fresh. Included in the B450 price are sides of garlic or Japanese rice, miso-style soup, condiments like chilli and gochuchang (hot pepper paste), plus fizzy pop or green tea, and a yummy red bean ice or fruit salad dessert. Truly folks, this all-youcan-eat is not to be sniffed at, especially as a nifty ventilation pipe hanging above each table ensures that even the most cack-handed of chefs doesn’t stink the place out.

ร้านคิงคอง หลังสวน

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

wine

featured

wıne bar

WINE PUB

For a wine bar that’s as easily overlooked as an old speakeasy – it’s dark, windowless and hidden at the back of the five-star Pullman Bangkok King Power – the Wine Pub sure does pack them in. For example, Friday nights in this swish establishment are rammed, its intimate booths and tables filled with classy grown-ups soaking up the moody ambiance and DJ-spun lounge tunes. What’s luring them in? Some of the best value food and wine promotions in town that’s what, from Monday’s Spanish paella night (B350 including glass of house wine) to Wednesday’s fish and chips (B190) and, Saturday’s very popular, all-you-can-eat tapas with bottle of wine (B900). These inventive offers, available from 6pm-10pm, have won over the city’s bon viveurs, not just because the vino and grub is up to snuff, being of a good provenance, but also because those prices are straight-up. Everything here is priced net, without the crafty “++’ (service charge and government tax) mark up – always a WHERE Pullman Bangkok King sore point at settle up time. Highly Power Hotel, 2nd Fl. BTS Victory recommended is the Mediterranean Monument, 02-680-9999, tapas tree, a selection of 18 hot and www.pullmanbangkokkingpower. cold tapas dishes hailing from Spain, Italy, North Africa and Greece (B900). com OPEN Mon-Sun 6pm-2am Alongside a sculpture-like metalwork rack filled with these new-fangled treats, it’s 3 glass wine flight features a fruity Sauvignon Blanc and robust, full-bodied Chiraz, both from France. Serious quaffers should also direct their attention toward the striking central glass cabinet loaded with over 100 new and old world bottles, including 20 sold by the glass.

รร.พูลแมน แบงคอก ซ.รางน้ำ

food & drinks

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

941 Sukhumvit Rd. Live Band Between Sukhumvit 51-53 Thu - Sat 8 PM - Midnight Mon - Sat 5.30 PM - 12.30 AM For Reservation Tel: 02-662-7605 www.wineandme51.com

Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Cowboy (btw sois 21 & 23). And voguish but affordable amount of options – so much more than just the hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and whisky-sippin’ naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot sois of Thong A night out here can easily have you flitting between Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.95) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.94), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.84. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can. The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.86), there’s something for all. Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here. Supperclub (p.82) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes – n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque Soi where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks. 80

nightlife

bangkok 101

Nightlife

nightclubs Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no. Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4,Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or 82

Bed Supperclub

dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping . ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past seven years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 80’s pop hits with house music.

The Club (map A3) 123 Khao San Rd,Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-1010 | www.theclubkhaosan. com | B100 (including 1 drink) The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a castle on Khao San Road. The spiral staircase of the central DJ platform and sky-high windows lend a fairy-tale vibe that would make Rapunzel want to let her hair down and hang loose. Musicwise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, from psy-trance to full on, cranium-rattling electro and techno. Ladies night on Thursdays treats the crowd to live percussion, and dancers entertain on Friday and Saturday nights. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.

เดอะ คลับ ถ. ข้าวสาร

เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

The Club

nightlife

bangkok 101

Demo

Calypso

Cabarets DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970-1 | 8pm1am | free (except one-off parties) Is Demo a sign of clubs to come in Thonglor? Or just a blip on the slickly gentrified area’s cookie-cutter nightclub factory line? Time will tell. In the meantime, we strongly suggest you check out this ramshackle tenement building turned moody and very gritty warehouse. Not only does it look like a venue you’d find in shabby, hipsterheaving East London. It sounds like one too: instead of mainstream hiphop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast trendy nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school – kudos! Further boosting its streetcool hip quotient, 1980s Brooklynstyle graffiti covers the brick walls and a vintage white Toyota Celica gleams in one corner. They offer a huge range of (quite expensive) beers, shots and cocktails and, though it’s only recently opened, weekends are already packed out with an international crowd.

เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ.10

808 (map D3) RCA, block C | 02-203-1043 | MRT Pra ram 9 | www.808bangkok.com | 9am-late This slick nightclub – all imposing red lighting, exposed brick and steelbangkok 101

cladding – has been a hit with clubbers ever since it landed on RCA in 2007. The reason: the consistently worldclass line-up. Grandmaster Flash, James Lavelle and Derrick May to name but a few global DJ giants, have all rocked this post-industrial warehouse, aided in no small part by the ear-drum/body/ table rattling sound-system (watch that drink dance!). Head up to the balcony for a comfy leather perch, or gyrate with the diehards on the dancefloor. Entrance prices vary depending on who is gracing the decks that night.

เอท โอ เอท อาร์ซีเอ บลอกซี

GLOW (map D3) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | | 6pm-2am This boutique club/bar/lounge challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-to-night, with deep-house and electro looming large and no hip-hop (hurrah!). Foxy coyote girls, dancing on the bar, make queuing for drinks here something of a guilty pleasure. For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool and up-todate website.

โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ.23

nightlife

MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Rd | 02-294-7381-2 | show time 7:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm) | B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ ถ.พระราม3

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ่ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

Threesixty

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Red Sky (map C3) Centara Grand Hotel, Rama 1 Road | BTS Chid Lom/Siam | 02-100-1234 | www.centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm – 1am Hi-octane views, svelte Martinis, rattan loungers to enjoy them on. Ironically, the only thing you won’t be seeing at Centara Grande’s chicly lit al fresco bar is red. When not gasping at the city flickering like a circuit-board beneath you, let yourself be entertained by the boomerang-like edifice changing colour above the translucent bar; or stargaze into the fibre optic solar system embedded in the curving, wood-panel wall. Sip a bottle from their space-age wine cellar, or a well-mixed cocktail; they shake everything from Ying Yangs to classic Caipirinhas. Fifty five floors below, it’s all car horns and consumer frenzy, but up here, glass in hand, live jazz wafting through the ether, not even a gust of wind can upset the cosmic balance – glass barriers mean there are, virtually, none.

รร.เซ็นทารา แกรนด์ เซ็นทรัล เวิลด์ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart-casual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

bangkok 101

Moon Bar

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee.The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe.The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

รร. โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart bangkok 101

surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

Panorama (map C3) Pan Pacific Bangkok, Rama IV Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for interminably hot or drizzly nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter found in the partitioned area at the rear of the Pan Pacific’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view nightlife

across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and up over downtown – not quite breathtaking, but still very Bangkok.

รร. แพนแปซิฟิค ถ.พระราม 4

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterraneanish Amorosa.The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day of temple hopping. And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant,The Deck, and 6 lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

Nightlife

hotel bars & nightclubs

Barsu

CM2

CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-255-6888 | www.cm2bkk.com | 6:30pm-2am This megaclub – the Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s party cave par excellence – still packs them in over a decade after it opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. Gone is the old karaoke complex, making room for pool tables and lounging space overlooking the big and quite 80s looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) dancefloor. It’s mainstreamy all the way. DJs play Club 18-30-style dance-pop and bubbly live bands perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition (Simon Cowell would be impressed). Cheesy? Maybe, a bit; but still a fun (and always eye-opening) experience. International and Thai food, as well as a whopping great cocktail list that includes some made with Amaltery’s alcoholic ice-cream, is served.

รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ซ.6

Bamboo Chic (map C4) Le Meridien Bangkok 4F, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8888 | BTS Sala Daeng | www.lemeridienhotelbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Dim-tones and giant chandeliers set the tone for haute Sino-Nippon cuisine at Bamboo Chic: Le Meridien hotel’s dashing designer resto-bar. But Bangkok’s jetset have also taken a shine to what’s being served over at the arresting lime-florescent bar – innovative cocktails like the Kyoto martini: a delectable blend of dry gin, midori, dry vermouth and lemon juice, served in a fishbowl glass. Highwattage smiles and slick service rounds off this voguish venue, as apt for postwork or pre-dancefloor tipples as it is a swanky dinner. Just steel yourself for a blast of cognitive dissonance on arrival… Patpong, the neon sleazepit cum night market, is Bamboo Chic’s unscrupulous neighbour.

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

รร.เลอ เมอริเดียน กรุงเทพ ถ.สุรวงศ์

Bamboo Chic

nightlife

bangkok 101

Zuk Bar

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | MonSat 5pm-1am, Sun noon- midnight Guests and clued-up city enjoy zesty cocktails, creative canapés and an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquillity at this classy hotel bar. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the sultry look, mood and service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for heart-to-hearts. The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge

bangkok 101

Club 87 Plus

oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a sociable spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior. Quietly solicitous lady staff clad in silk serve while a DJ from Tues to Sat spins soulful tunes.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

Club 87 Plus (map C3) Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-690-9087 | 6pm - 2am Bigger, sleeker and sexier, the Conrad hotel’s recently relaunched flagship nightspot has targeted its audience from the get-go. Don’t be expecting minimalist jungle or Ibiza-style foam

nightlife

parties, but if you like to cut a little rug to tunes from the 80s and 90s, this joint should do just fine. The main draw here is the band, Citybeat (Tues-Sun, 10pm-2am). They know how to get a party going with their tried and tested repertoire of funked-up pop classics. DJ 90 provides the soundtrack for the daily buy-one-get-one-free Happy Hour (6-9:30pm), and takes centre stage on Monday evenings. Thursday is Ladies Night and Sunday’s Latin. There’s also a nifty new smoking lounge adjoining the venue.

โรงแรมคอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

Nightlife

bars BARLEY BISTRO (map C4) 4/F Food Channel, Silom Road | BTS Sala Daeng | 08703-33919 | daily 5pm-late | www.barleybistro.com Before this multi-level resto-bar popped up on our radar, bars in gritty Silom were limited to gay haunts, girly bars and cheesy Irish pubs. No longer: Barley Bistro’s arrival means it’s now possible to have a quiet drink here without encountering cruisers, sleaze-balls or barmaids in Leprechaun hats. Hidden up some stairs at the Food Channel, an enclave of franchise-like restaurants, its one helluva slick, snazzy spot. The design is chic (brooding blacks and greys, white-on-black stencil art); the drinks funky (lychee mojitos, testtube cocktails etc); the food newfangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the clientele wholesome (Thai office workers mostly). Do check out the open-air rooftop. Though not quite worthy of our ‘Bars with a View’ section – it’s boxed in by buildings – it’s littered with cooling fans, huge bean bags and funky barley-stalk sculptures and perfect for postwork/pre-club cocktails. Live bands play in the bar most nights.

บาร์ลี่ย์บิสโทร ฟู้ดชาแนล ถ.สีลม

The Iron Fairies

THE IRON FAIRIES & CO (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor | www.theironfairies.com This recent arrival injects a healthy dose of creativity into the city’s nightlife scene and is probably the coolest bar in Bangkok right now. It’s an oddball cross between a curiositycum-antiques shop — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — and homage to the 1920s. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables impressing inebriated revellers with his slight of hand, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the cast-iron spiral staircase.The venue has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam set with a touch of the bordello. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a well-mixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the burgers, which are served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, are divine.

ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am This shabby open-air streetside joint is a real Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety island hole-inthe-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B60 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. CC’s is the kind of place where it’s easy to fall into conversation with other patrons; whether it’s because you’re sheltering from a rain shower together or end up sharing one of the few tables. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

Barley Bistro

nightlife

bangkok 101

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnamese-inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues.The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

LOLLIPOP (map A3) 1 Mahannop Soi 1, Mahannop Road, Pra Nakorn | 08-6339-1390 | Tue-Sun 5pm-1am Lime green walls, fiery red couches and hippie bead curtains – this old wooden house in the old city district of Phra Nakorn looks like it has been ripped from a Tim Burton fantasy. Just like the building’s previous tenant, rock-pub Lullibar, young indie-hipster Thais flock here for the juxebox indie tunes and house bands, cheap brews and kap klaem (beer snacks). One bad thing: Lollipop is hidden deep within the relatively unknown Soi Mahannop, a roughly five-minute walk from the city’s Democracy Monument. But then again, if you’re cool enough to frequent a place like Lollipop, you’re cool enough to hang with the kids who can get you there.

โลลี่ป๊อป มหรรณพ ซ.1

bangkok 101

Lollipop

PHRANAKORN BAR (map A3) Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd. | 02-622 0282 | 6pm-1am When Khao San Road’s obnoxious bars wear thin – and they do – flee in search of this cool, multi-level boozer tucked just off Ratchadamnoen Road. It’s an old favourite of local art students, mostly for its indie/80s/90s worshipping playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views, over rickety old-city rooftops, towards the floodlit Golden Mount temple. The booze and Thai food is also cheap as chips, as is most of the modern art hanging on the second floor. Tried to find it before but failed? You wouldn’t be the first. From the Burger King end of Khao San Road, turn right onto Ratchadamnoen, right again and it’s down the first soi on your left hand-side. In the evenings there’s usually at least one vintage VW beetle parked outside.

พระนครบาร์ ซ.ดำเนินกลางใต้ ถ.ราชดำเนิน

ROLLING BAR (map A3) Wanchat Rd | 081-867-6568 | MonSat 6pm-2am A big lit up marquee sign on Wanchat Road beckons you to find out what is going on below the street line. Descend a few stairs and in a quiet corner by the water you will find Rolling Bar, a small open space filled with a mixed assortment of retro décor and various model Cadillac cars. Here, every night nightlife

you can hear familiar old folk and rock covers unplugged. The bar draws a mixed crowd all in the comfort of T-shirts and jeans and ready to throw back a couple of drinks. The menu’s got all the popular Thai favourites, but the bar offers you a little bit more. Owner Khun Sheeva has whipped up his own personal sweet rum, Sheeva Wop; a must try.

โรลลิ่งบาร์ ริมสะพานเฉลิมวันชาติ

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serveyourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Put it this way: if you’re looking for a chocolate Martini and a plate of tapas, you’re in the wrong place.Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom –and watch the night unfold.

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

Nightlife

jazz clubs THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch. รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท

ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

Diplomat Bar

DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile

nightlife

crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

Niu’s on Silom

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must. รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well worth crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jaw-dropping jazz venue. Since July its dressy crowd has been soaking up that camera-grabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of Micki L Murphy. Her sultry renditions – spanning jazz to bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed. รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร

bangkok 101

Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม JAZZ GALLERY (map A3) 2nd floor (beneath Gazebo Bar), 44 Chakrapong Rd, (just off Khao San Road | 02-629-5821~2 | 6pm-1am The only thing “Khao San” about this standalone jazz lounge with a soft, elegant glow is its location, just off the raucous backpacker strip. Offering comfy armchairs on one side and casually riffing local jazz bands on the other, parquet floors, candlelight and discreet service, the Jazz Gallery is the most sophisticated venue to grace the area yet. And a great place to escape its moronic-music-loving masses.Think highbrow wine-bar for chardonnaysipping Coltrane-lovers. In addition to some of Thailand’s best jazz divas and ensembles, there’s a recessed art gallery, a smoking balcony (cigars available) and a wine cellar offering the best plonk in the neighbourhood. Mmmm, suave and smooth. แจ๊สแกลอรี่ ถ.จักรพงษ์ nightlife

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club Is Bangkok’s newest and brightest jazz club location, Where you can enjoy live performances daily, which include International musicians and some of the hottest local musicians.

Special guests:

Mauro and Mauro Monti Quintet Rydsma & Band Daniel Phillips and Band

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club

Wine Bar & Restaurant 661 Floor 1-2 Silom Road (cnr Soi 19) Tel: 0 2266 5333-4 Daily 5pm-1am; Free valet parking reservation@niusonsilom.com www.niusonsilom.com

Nightlife

live music

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

Bangkok Rocks

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do theThai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this longstanding, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yester year with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band star ts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

รร.เดอะคีย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.19

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

Bangkok Rocks (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

Brown Sugar

nightlife

bangkok 101

Parking Toys

Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, soul-stirring.

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm - 1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage, it’s a sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eyecandy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. It’s a hike, but well worth it. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s – the secret’s out!

Tawandaeng German Brewery (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | This cavernous beer keg of a room plays host to Fong Nam, an energetic house band led by the talented Bruce Gaston, a NewYorker famous – in these parts, anyway – for giving traditional Thai music a Western makeover. Spurred on by up to 1,600 lary diners, they rollick through a musical repertoire that touches on everything from luk thung to driving mor lam, Thai orchestrals to western contemporary. They play every night from 7pm-1am, except Sundays. Besides their music (and the dry ice and dancing cabaret girls extravaganza that goes with it), Tawandaeng is also well-known for its micro-brewed beers, German sausage and deep-fried pork knuckle. Reservations recommended.

โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3

ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์

เดอะ ร๊อคผับ ถ.พญาไท

TITANIUM ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 | www.titanium-club.com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from. An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nippleraising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม ไอซ์บาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

The Rock Pub

bangkok 101

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them reliving the glory years here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride you’ve stumbled on, while inside house bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything from Van Halen to Motorhead covers. Bands get going at 10pm weekdays, 9:30pm on weekends, as they have done for the past 22 years.

nightlife

Nightlife

nightlife areas

Hemlock

11 10

PHra athit rd

Police Station

8 7

Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of dek naew (trendy teens) and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young locals bounce along to excellent live ska. A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite, Zest [4] focuses on live Brit Rock, while Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down another alley, is a retro-cool cocktail house. More full-on, The Club [6] is a techno-rave palace offering free UV glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an opensided rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till the wee hours. For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at 1 6 3 2 rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club Burger kHao sanroad rd Khao San [10] deserves a mention. For outstanding seafood and King 5 4 absolutely no flair, check out Thon Po [11]. Directly on the riverside, this breezy place offers fantastic views and delicious fish and crustaceans from an expansive menu. Call ahead to reserve a riverfront spot.

Ekkamai/Thonglor

Funky Villa

new phetchaburi rd

Soi 20

Thong Lor Soi 10

Soi 16

Ekkamai Soi 28

BTS Ekkamai

Ekkamai Soi 10

Soi 1

Sukhumvit RD

Soi 21

In recent years these parallel boulevards have embraced sweeping gentrification and emerged as upmarket playgrounds for the young, studiously cool zeitgeist follower, be they celebrity, model, arty type, uni student or slick professional. Aside from their surfeit of luxury condos, boutique lifestyle emporiums, designer spas and restaurants both are studded with trendy nightspots catering to a predominantly Thai clientele. New ones pop up every few months, as if to keep hipsters on their toes and match that season’s colours. For now Muse [1], FunkyVilla [2] and Demo [3] – three giganto clubs on Thonglor Soi 10 – are all the rage. Meanwhile, scattered about are old-timers like Song Saleung [4], a recently refurbished and often heaving live music joint, and Shades of Retro [5] – a combo furniture-store café and hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd. Ekkamai’s main drag and side-streets are even better endowed party-wise. Curvaceous Curve [6] and glamorous Jet Metropolitan [7] are big, top-shelf joints offering the usual failsafe blend of live Thai music and DJ’s spinning R’n’B. As the scene stands both are big draws, though the crowds are so gleefully fickle that could change in a Bangkok minute.Track them to the cool club of the moment. Or try two that have achieved longevity: nightclub Nunglen [8] and 4 BTS Thong Lor scruffy little bar Happy Monday [9]. Pretty young Soi 55 (Thong lor) things bounce along to Thai 5 1 tunes in the former; while 2 3 media types (25+) hobnob while enjoying low-key indy6 8 rockstar DJ sessions (May T Soi 63 (Ekkamai) from Modern Dog etc) and 7 9 slouchy sofas in the latter.

nightlife

bangkok 101

ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

road

AL LO C

road

For a night of clubbing,Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music. Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] preaches bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Beside it, HOBB [4] is an industrial chic, two-storey bar. Expect DJs, live music plus occasional appearances by local bands like Bodyslam. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [5], a slick red-brick warehouse with a stunning sound system and sets by global DJ gods. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] attracts the drain-pipe jeans, rock-guitar rabble. There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a strict girls-only policy. No men, gay men, drag queens or peeping Tom’s allowed.

RCA road

1 2

4 5

Sukhumvit Soi 11

On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs tucked off steamy Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with fashionable expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely. This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 9 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]; a curvaceous club-cum-restaurant delivering spacey looks, soft white divans and Ibiza-esque beats. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad bigger than a broom cupboard. Nest 1 [4], a breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, is a more upscale 4 5 option offering 2 Bed Supperclub laid-back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean Bangkok you were after? For something more risqué 3 check out new neighbour Diva [5]. Inside, caged coyotedancers pull off raw, hi-energy dance moves in what they enticingly call: “A femme fatale of a nightclub.” Think Moulin Rouge meets the Pussycat Dolls add throbbing house beats and you’re close. Soi 11

Q Bar

SUKHUMVIT road

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

featured

pub Balcony Humidor

Cigar Lounges

EST. 33

EST.33, a modern industrial beer bistro marking a new chapter in Singha beer brand’s age-old story, is a tasty place to kick back after a day of work or before a night of partying. Located in Bangkok’s Crystal Design Center, EST. 33 has the rustic charm of cast-iron arches, massive concrete pillars, and a large glass centerpiece: Where Crystal Design the first Crystal Brewing Center Building E, System in Asia. One can Praditmanutham Rd (Ekamai witness the fermentation Ramintra Road), Bangkapi, 02process first-hand or consult 102-2096, www.est-33.com with the onsite “brew Open 11am – midnight master”, making it quite Price Food B160- B350; the educational experience. Drinks B120- B180 Turning out 500 litres of beer with each batch, the brewery rotates its selection every quarter to keep your taste buds happy. Currently you can find “The Legend” larger beer, The “One & Only” copper beer, and the “Mysterious” black beer, all topped off with that creamy lace. The food perfectly compliments the beer. Home-smoked salmon with a spicy dressing starts you off light with a refreshing zest. Then onto the Chicken Quesadillas with spinach and mushroom melted together in a medley of cheese. Finally, bring on the German sausages, boiled in beer then grilled, and served with coleslaw and apple sauerkraut. Be careful: the food is a bit heavy, so wear clothes with forgiving waistlines and then dig into desert. We tried the signature parfait of passion fruit, kiwi, lychee and cheesecake, followed by the chocolate scream tart, which left us licking our spoons. With great eats and drinks, it’s not surprising that this spot is crowded, even mid-week. Best advice is to call ahead, especially on a Friday.

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality coronas and fine figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges typically feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and stellar selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and what is billed as Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies. n Balcony Humidor & P&L Club Cigar Bar Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 n Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight n La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com n P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

คริสตัลดีไซน์เซ็นเตอร์ ถ.เอกมัย รามอินทรา

Club Perdomo

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers.Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak sathorn road

Thaniya

patpong

Convent road

Surasak road

silom road

2 1 BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

Sukhumvit AREA PUBS

bangkok 101

soi 39

sukhumviT road

BTS Asoke

soi 22

soi 12

BTS Nana

soi 6

soi 4

sukhumviT road

soi 35

soi 11

soi 13

soi 33

soi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering city-sized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map - and prepare for sheer retail overload.

UNIQUE boutique

Mob. F

Where 4th Floor, Siam Center, 02-658-1491~2, www.mob-f.com, BTS Siam Prices B1,200-B6,500

It’s pretty hard to pass through Siam Center these days without seeing the massive banners and pop-up displays, advertising it’s fourth floor pioneer store, Mob.F. We peeked in and found that it is the top all-in-one spot to get the lowdown on current Thai designers. Since it’s grand opening earlier this year, Mob. F’s two consultants and managing director have done quite the job at rounding up all of the newest collections and brands from aspiring and established Thai designers, making it the “first-ever multi-brand store”. And trust us getting picked isn’t an easy task. It’s important that the products must have attitude and personality.The store’s main goal is not to necessarily sell clothes that follow the trends in detail, but have stand out pieces that don’t just state your individuality, but scream it. With that said, twenty-seven fashion and bag brands and fifteen accessory brands made the cut. The 1,000m² space is chockfull of little booths, which mimic a typical department store without the stale, florescent lighting and annoying sales people. Weaving in and out of stalls, you transport into completely different atmospheres; In Bean of Jack, you’ll find life-size Rubik’s Cubes and space-age helmets and then mere metres away you saunter into Pretty Little Thing, which has a much softer, feminine flow. It’s kind of like taste testing at an ice-cream parlor, each a taste is a different flavor, but somehow you want them all. And speaking of tasty, Mob.F also includes White Café XS, which hosts a variety of art exhibitions. Mob. F parallels the perfect fashion community, putting designers, who have only been at it roughly a year, like Finnegan Gingham, in the same room as designers who’ve won awards and have traveled down the catwalk, like Paul B. It’s a great platform for the newbies to compete with the big dogs. The fashion rebels have stormed in and they aren’t leaving quietly.

สยามเซ็นเตอร์

shopping

bangkok 101

stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, home-grown “stuff” that Bangkok is justly famous for. L’Arcadia

Silk/apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down.The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom bangkok 101

Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for royalty), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com

Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while youth-orientated shopping mall Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer homespun high fashions by labels like Jaspal and Greyhound.

Jewellery/gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionallymined precious stones. The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam. There are a few diamonds in the rough, though. Lambert Industries, with their friendly and reliable service, has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. n Lambert Industries (807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg 4F, Silom Rd Soi 17, 02-236-4343).

OTOP: One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP, a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living.

shopping

Shopping

Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.102). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week. Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.102); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595

Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th n Panpuri

Shopping Tips

n Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head.

n Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

n Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. 100

shopping

Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power. At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Isetan Plaza (CentralWorld) F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info n VAT: Look out for signs advertising “VAT Refund or Tourists”. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7% on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th

bangkok 101

bangkok design

THE REVISIONIST: Swai Silpavithayadilok, for Hygge

Brian Mertens

‘Green’ products are often stylistically grey. But Swai Silpavithayadilok brings flair to the category, designing rubberwood furniture that is both sustainable and full of wit. With a deft sense of play, Swai shows how the stroke of a pen can turn ecologically friendly materials like plantation wood into smart, alluring products. His designs rely on eclectic stylistic referencing rather than rare materials. High-end timber furniture from Southeast Asia is usually made from fine wood harvested unsustainably in the wild. Swai’s designs are instead made from wood grown in rubber tree farms. Thailand, as the world’s largest producer of rubber, has vast acreage of these trees, which need to be cut down when they are about 30 years old, after they stop producing latex. The company that makes Swai’s work is a longtime producer of generic rubberwood furniture. In 2000, it commissioned him to create premium designs that would launch its new brand Hygge into highend showrooms. The product’s merit would not be rare materials but rarefied design. And so Swai plays a game with style, turning design history into his chest full of toys. Alone among his Thai colleagues, he has pursued an eclectic, historicist approach a bit like the one pioneered in furniture designed in the 1980s by the American architects Michael Graves and Robert Venturi, as well as Italy’s Ettore Sottsass, of the renowned Memphis design group. These designers, loosely grouped under the label postmodernist, flouted modernist convention by dressing up their work in art-historical references and ornament. The excesses of postmodern style disenchanted design audiences in the 1990s, but Swai seems to get it right. His wit is warm, not studied, and he avoids over-the-top decoration. Swai’s collection invokes Ming-era chairs, early 20th-century avant-garde furniture and other period references that design fans will enjoy tracing. Some designs instead play with simile, metaphor or anthropomorphic form. CONTACT n Hygge | 034-289138 | www.hygge.com | info@hygge.com

Bangkok Design:Thai Ideas in Textiles and Furniture is the first book to explore Asia’s new wave in design creativity. Award-winning author Brian Mertens profiles 36 of Thailand’s top designers, showing how they translate their own culture and experiences into unique furnishings that have won international awards and museum exhibitions. Typically handcrafted from natural materials, the best contemporary Thai designs celebrate wit, warmth, sustainability and alluring form. Bangkok Design – published by Marshall Cavendish – B1,200 - hardcover, written by Brian Mertens, with photos by Robert McLeod. bangkok 101

shopping

101

Shopping

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 The Four Seasons 4 Grand Hyatt Erawan 5 Intercontinental 6 Holiday Inn 7 Conrad 8 Plaza Athenee 9 Royal Orchid Sheraton 10 The Oriental 11 The Peninsula 12 Shangri-La

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

CENTRALWORLD BTS Siam All hail Bangkok’s largest shopping mall, uniquely served by an elevated walkway connecting Siam Skytrain station to its Chit Lom counterpart.

4 5 6

oe n kr char

rd.

ong s u raw 11

OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel. 12

shopping

u ng

102

To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

rive

BTS Ploen Chit

yra

d. ya r S i phra

o ph cha

WITTHAYU rd

C E N TRAL CH I T LOM BTS Chit Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

phetburi rd

ploenchit rd

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chid Lom All-white interior of glitzy, top-class brands – expect Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

chidlom

lang suan rd

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Look for TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

Ratchadamri rd

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chid Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine. Think Burberry. BTS Chitlom

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ZEN BTS Siam This pop art-styled, multilevel designer department store aims to attire Bangkok’s young-at-heart funsters in the latest international fashions.

Phaya Thai rd

uri rd

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

ph e tb

Phaya Thai rd

s ilo

bangkok 101

chatuchak weekend market

Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can get lost – literally.

JJ Gem

of the month

aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which zillions descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Chatuchak quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs during ‘Nam; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has somehow evolved its own diverse ecosystem (albeit one that periodically gets busted for peddling endangered species). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits - although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated fix.

JIPATA ANTIQUES SHOP

Simply the best JJ antique shop we’ve come across. Yes, others are more orderly, but none have the dusty grandpa’s attic feel of Jitapa. The fun here is in the foraging. The place is brimful with fine Chinese, European and Thai antiquities in need only of a good spit and polish, from Benjarong ceramics and Nang Kwak figurines to bronze Samurai statues, hefty old irons and crystal drop chandeliers. Most date back to the mid 20th century or earlier. WHERE Section 26, More affordable (and practical, for the Soi 3 | 02-618-2622 tourist with airline weight allowance to worry about) are the vases and wooden boxes – betal nut, Buddhist and decorative – that sit unloved on row after row of shelves. Running the show is Mr. Chairat Pongpha, an octogenarian from Nakhon Sawan who hobbles around on his walking stick barking prices at anyone who dares ask – but in the sweetest possible way.

Rd .

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

Rd .

Section 4

To Victory Monument

bangkok 101

Section 9

Section 13

Section 15

Section 5

n io ct

pha

Section 12

Section 14

Section 16

K am

Section 18

Section 10

6 Ja eng Pu tuj Ph bl ak ic et Pa 3 Rd rk .

Section 20

Section 21

Section 11

23 22 n io ct

eng

Section 8

Clock Tower

pha

Section 17

24 n

K am

Section 19

c 2 5 t ion

io ct Se

K am

Se Section 21

Jipata Antiques

pha

eng

Chatuchak Map

To Vibhavadhi - Rangsit Rd.

shopping

103

Shopping

markets

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the “thieves market”, this smallish street-side market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique, and a seemingly random assortment of household appliances. As its nickname would suggest, ample bargains await patient, eagleeyed shoppers - though don’t expect a receipt, let alone a refund.

นครเกษม

Ratchada Night Market Fri-Sat Nights (busiest on Saturday) | parallel with RatchadapisekLadprao intersection | MRT Ratchadapisek or Ladphrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teen-thronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). So worth the schlep, but bring a torch and your bargaining skills!

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was hailed as “Venice of the East”.

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-thatbe auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s obsessive collection of modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนท์บาร์ซาร์

Thewet

เทเวศน์

ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา

104

shopping

bangkok 101

sidewalks

Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny T-shirts, wooden carvings, paintings and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the stuff on offer can be picked up in the malls and markets – but where’s the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain! Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff (frayed t-shirts, handbags, polka dot dresses etc) are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale by the city’s babyfaced entrepreneurs.

ถ.ข้าวสาร

Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here.

สีลม/พัฒน์พงษ์

bangkok 101

Khao San Road

Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item.

ประตูนำ้

ถ.สุขมุ วิท

Pratunam A ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!). shopping

Sukhumvit

105

Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In each new issue Bangkok 101 brings you the best of Bangkok’s new breed. Each month we uncover those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy boutique hotel banner.

LUXX XL A press photo for this boxy and low-key Lang Suan Road boutique features a moody male model standing on a balcony, a white towel wrapped around his waist. Now, getting a handsome bod to sexy up your product is hardly novel, straight out of Marketing 101 in fact, but here it’s actually quite apt: like him Luxx XL is moody, masculine and very modern Scandinavian looking – all swish steel and glass, glossy grey slate and brushed Where 82/8 Langsuan concrete. Softening up its slick, if slightly Road, Lumpini, 02-684aloof, minimalist scando-style throughout 1111, www.luxxxl.com are local Thai accents, namely slatted warm BTS Ratchadamri (15 teakwood paneling and floors and modern, minutes walk) Panta-esque furniture. There’s nothing Price B2,500 – 11,000 quite like it in the capital, except that is the original branch in Silom, which this one is an XL version of. That means more rooms, 36 in total, with more space, all featuring pantries, floor-to-ceiling windows, free wifi and special monthly rates for longstayers. They’re good-looking and have a solid, built-tolast feel about them; but the room layouts don’t always hit the spot. The pantry in our 66m² Suite L, for example, was dark and unappealing (the huge grey-slate bathroom, though, makes up for it – in a brilliant architectural slight of hand, a sliding partition door right next to the bathtub opens onto the balcony, allowing you to bathe al fresco). Breakfast is served in a little mezzanine with views onto a glossy grey-slate (and very Beverley-Hills villa looking) pool lined with chic sunloungers. Note to original Luxx fans: perhaps it’s most endearing signature – the golden teak bathtubs – are absent. They leak, apparently.

ลักซ์เอ็กซ์แอล หลังสวน

106

accommodation

bangkok 101

“You don’t stay here... you live here”

1 Sathorn Soi 3, South Sathorn Road, Thungmahamek, Sathorn, Bangkok, Thailand 10120 Tel : (66) 2 343 6789 Fax : (66) 2 343 6790 visit www.marriott.com/bkkea

60 Soi Langsuan, Lumpini, Pathumwan Bangkok, 10330 Thailand Tel: (66) 2 6721234 Fax: (66) 2 6721235 Visit www.marriott.com/bkker

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.109 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

Thai-massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

signature treatment

Honey Pot Waxing

Urban Retreat Spa – 31/10 Sukhumvit Soi 35 / BTS Phrom Phong /Yes, 02-204-2008-9 the rumor is/ www.urbanretrue: waxing does hurt, however Honey Pot Waxing treatspa.net <http://www.urbanretreatspa. Boutique’s professional techniques, signature products and loving care net> / 10am-10pm / $ help to make a virtually painless 30-minute Himalayan Crystal pink Salts with experience. First time customers also fill Yogurt and out Honey Scrub + 60-minute a consultation form toMacensure the best customized treatment. This adamia Oil Massage: 1200 baht chic boutique, commands you to embrace your inner “sex kitten” through Tucked away in a side street close to Phrom Phong, Urban Retreatgrooming. is precisely that –a brave a feminine So with face, we stopped in to receive their quiet spot close to the bustle of Sukhumvit award-winning Brazilian wax. Customers can choose from several styles, and the upscale Emporium shopping mall. but the popularwith is, The Hollywood. Once in the room, the fearless This new, small spamost is popular Thais and long-term foreignwipes residents attendant you drawn down by very good services that don’t suffer Where Unit no F209, Floor 2, with their “Oh So Clean” for being affordable. Spa menu is trim Forum Zone, Central World Plaza pre/post cleanser and tidy, with a focuswaxing on massage, although scrubs anddisinfectant, facials are also availBTS Chidlom Open 10:30amand followed

9:00pm www honeypotwaxboutique. by the “Pain-Free Potion”, com Special discount All which smoothes and Bangkok 101 readers will receive a protects, so the wax only 10% discount catches your hair and not your skin. FYI: it’s important to have at least 2-8 millimeters of hair, for the best results. The hot pink, creamy wax matches the room’s ambiance and smells of cherries. The attendant carefully applies it following the hair and then in one quick swoosh pulls away. Tadah – smooth skin! One-time use only applicators and towels help the salon achieve top-notch cleanliness. After forty-Five minutes and a quick moisturizing rub down, you’re outta there, clean, confident and bare.

เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์

108

health & wellness

bangkok 101

typical SPA cost range

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

HEALTHLAND SPA & MASSAGE (map C4) 120 North Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-637 8883 | www. healthlandspa.com | 9am-11pm | $$ A former restaurant houses this downtown spa, a huge palace for the body. Despite almost 50 private rooms (175 customers can be treated simultaneously), a peaceful air permeates the place.You’ll get relaxing, muted colors, smart ornaments and expertly performed treatments, all for the price of a backpacker rip-off place. Thai massages are done in quasi-public but thick curtains guarantee some privacy. Groups of up to 8 friends can book themselves into comfy, spick-andspan private rooms.The Aromatherapy Massage is something for the hardy ones; your muscles will get that passive workout. The traditional Thai Herbal Compresses are a must-try. An on-site doctor will examine you before an Ayurvedic Massage – Healthland takes treatments pretty serious. There are two other, even bigger branches with a wider menu but these ones are a bit off the beaten path.

TRIA INTEGRATIVE WELLNESS (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd | 02-6602600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | Mon - Fri 7am - 10pm, Sat 7am - 9pm, Sun 7am - 8:30pm | $$$ This top-notch spa connected to Piyavate Hospital offers a full-on “integrative” approach – a team of specialists from physicians to personal trainers, to bodywork therapists – restaurants offering healthy spa facilities and treatments, and even enough function space for group of 200. Bangkok has a few “medical spas” offering such approaches to Western-medicine and traditional therapies, but Tria is truly one of the best. Opt for extensive programs devoted to anti-aging, pre-natal care, holistic detoxification, or even simpler aesthetic treatments, and you’ll get access to a gorgeous spa pool, an infrared sauna, a steam room, and Swiss and Vichy showers. Treatments range from massage to Ayurvedic treatments and Chinese Chi Nei Tsang therapy sessions. Our simple scrub and wrap was a delight – attentive, fully relaxing , and leaving us with glowing results – but we’d recommend springing for some of the more unusual and difficult-to find treatments, and leave yourself enough time to take advantage of the firstrate facilities.

ศูนย์สุขภาพตรัยยา หลังรพ.ปิยะเวท

Pranali Spa

PRANALI WELLNESS SPA (map C3) Unit 334, 3F Siam Paragon Shopping Centre | BTS Siam | 02-610-9596 | www.pranaliwellness.com | 10am 9:30pm | $$$$ The lonely walk, to the pin-drop quiet end of Siam Paragon mall’s third floor, is worth it. Award-winning Pranali delivers ancient techniques in what resembles a shiny Zen spaceship (albeit one that’s neatly landed next to a Martha Stewart furniture store). Past the storefront selling Pranali’s luscious take-home ointments, milky glass corridors lead to seven private treatment rooms, each named after one of the seven chakras (Visuddha, Anahata etc). Beside your massage bed, tassels of fibre-optic lighting or art installation like bamboo arrangements – not to mention mystical muzak – lend a zen, futuristic quality to proceedings. Many, eager to get back to the shops no doubt, opt for a warp speed foot rub or facial; but Pranali’s well worth a linger. The accurately titled Marvelous Herbal Compress is but one of the menu’s detoxifying many. What’s more the masseuses, in their spick white Buck Rogers uniforms, are models of spa professionalism: smiley, strong and communicative from start to invigorating finish.

สยามพารากอน

เฮลท์แลนด์ สาทรเหนือ

bangkok 101

spas

health & wellness

109

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-the-art equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

Tria

110

ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified health & wellness

physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.

เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

Amruth Wellness Center (mapE4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient at this leafy garden townhouse gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a drop-in, dropout treatment, a yoga sesh or to embark on a life-changing panchakarma package. Stocked with medicines imported from the Subcontinent, holistic highlights include a hanging massage and the head oil-dribbling odyssey that is a shiro dhara.

อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8

BANGKOK MEDIPLEX (map E4) 2/70 Sukhumvit 42, Phrakanong | BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-5555 | www.bangkokmediplex.com | 9am – 8pm Visible from the Ekkamai Skytrain Station, this gleaming steel and glass fronted lifestyle mall comprises 35 leading healthcare centres and trendy medi-lifestyle stores. There’s a clinic offering live cell therapy (a treatment to repair weak cells), a traditional Chinese medicine centre, a chiropractic centre, top notch eye-care and Thailand’s first organic supermarket. Ample parking.

แบงคอก เมดิเพลกซ์ สุขมุ วิท 42

bangkok 101

edical tourism is huge business in Thailand; a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of others – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international trade. The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other. When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls. Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad, once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your private room, they have their own immigration department and

bangkok 101

a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your trip. You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications? Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul? And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa? These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment.

FEATURED medical treatment

medical tourism Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International

33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com Aster Spring

Picture Perfect

When your skin is damaged from too much sun or you are looking for more than a rub-a-dub facial, a face mapping process can effectively assess your skin condition and address areas that may be causing specific problems. How does it work? The face is sectioned into 14 zones, each corresponding to a part of the body. For example, zone 2 deals with liver function, and problems here are indicators of something amiss with the liver (been boozing a lot at the beach lately, perhaps?) Many places can offer a facial skin analysis, such as Chivavech Clinic, where the staff can advise on laser and rejuvenation treatments. Apex Beauty Clinic at Siam Center also offers expert skin care advice and treatments with Derma Active products. For a more comprehensive Face Mapping treatment given in English, Aster Spring at Siam Discovery Center seems the best at going beyond the surface, and uses the much-touted Dermalogica face mapping technique. If you have skin problems that you just haven’t been able to solve, then this is the facial for you. Areas for improvement are identified, such as diet and hydration levels, and knowledgeable technicians offer advice on the positive impact on your skin, how to keep your skin in tip-top condition and what products to use on problem areas. Facial skin analysis takes between 5-30 minutes. Prices vary, but start at around B1,000. Face mapping can leave your skin glowing, and feeling refreshed and hydrated. Well worth it. Where to get your facial skin analysis n Aster Spring 2nd Fl, Siam Discovery Center | 02-658-0212-3 1st Fl, Life Center Zone at Q House, South Sathorn Rd | 02-677-7230-1 M Fl, The Esplanade, Rachadapisek Rd | 02-660-9364-7 n Chivavech Clinic 87/6-7 Moderntown Bld, 1st Fl, Ekamai Soi 3, Sukhumvit 63 | 02-382-0420-22 n Apex Beauty Clinic Sukhumvit 39 | 02-662-6018-9 health & wellness

111

Sports

sports MASTER MUAY THAI! Many a champ started out punching mitts at one of Bangkok’s many muay Thai schools. Some are livein training camps, others geared towards drop-in sessions, but all will train you up and teach you how to deflect – and deliver – the basic moves, be it kick, jab, elbow, foot thrust or standing grapple. Beginners and female pugilists are welcome, though they often receive inordinate attention from the coming-of-age combatants. n Chacrit Muay Thai School Washington Square next to Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-260-5816 www.chacritmuaythaischool.com n Fairtex Muaythai RCA 149 3rd Fl. RCA Driving Range, Local Rd. | 02-203-1443 | www.muaythaifairtex.com n The International Muay Thai School 22/8 Moo 8, Soi 10, Pracharaj Sai1 Road, Bangsue | 02-585-6807 www.geocities.com/maimuangkorn/ eng_mai.htm n Muay Thai Institute 336/932 Prahonyothin 118 Vipravadee Road, Rangsit | 02-9920096-99 | www.muaythai-institute.net n Muaythai Sasiprapa 401 Soi Ladprao 130 Klongchan, Bangkapi | 02-378-0270 | www.muaythaisasiprapa.com

Muay Thai Institute

112

THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

Fairtex

MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF, the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. spor ts

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.37) on any given day and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums.The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. bangkok 101

Spiceroads

Active Sports AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in! BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK.

CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand and its neighbours. ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Esplanade 4F | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more

bangkok 101

spor ts

like a nightclub on ice. Popular among youngsters, its 682m2 of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B900-2,400 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Centre (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with local ace Paradorn Srichaphan bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 113

Courses&Ser vices

courses

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi | 02-294-9029 | www.baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 114

(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02711-5270-3 | www.chivasomacademy. com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. The high but justified prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses available in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล อะคาเดมี

โมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well. Perfect for a serious, but short stint into Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit Lopburi

Wat Pra BahtNum Phu

Much publicity has been given to the worldwide effort to educate people on the dangers of AIDS and how to protect against this deadly virus. But what about the people who are already infected and are suffering through their long and painful plight? Most of them are kicked to the curb, disowned and considered repulsive to many who still obviously aren’t in possession of the full facts. For these people, places like Wat Pra Baht Num Phu, also known as the AIDS temple, is simply essential, offering refuge. Founded in 1992 by Dr. Alongkot Dikkapanya in the small town of Lopburi, this temple was converted into a hospice specialising in patients suffering from latestage, full-blown AIDS. Today it treats 500 patients at a time with an ever-growing waiting list of patients that totals over 10,000 people.The hospice holds lectures to educate young children about AIDS and also has two museums on the premises, grimly named the “After Death Room” and the “Bones Museum”, which hold preserved bodies of patients who have died from AIDS, and the cremated remains of patients, awaiting the day a family member might drop by to pick them up. Sadly, when dealing with this disease, particularly at this stage, death is inevitable and anywhere from 3 to 9 patients pass away every single day. The temple also founded the Thammarak Niwet Project, a wide scale housing project for 10,000 people living with AIDS and HIV. To find out how you can help contribute to these or other projects run by the hospice, visit their website for more information: www.aidstemple.th.org Wat Pra Baht Num Phu Khoa Sam Yod, A. Muang, Lopburi, 036-413-805, 036-428-222, 089-742-0730– 31, aidstemple@hotmail.com

วัดพระบาทน้ำพุ เขาสามยอด จ.ลพบุรี

bangkok 101

cour ses & ser vices

115

Business

business traveller

A new dawn for MICE breaks over Sukhothai

eyond the boardrooms and beaches of Thailand’s bighitting business hubs, some less obvious destinations perfect for small to medium-sized MICE events are now getting the attention they deserve – beginning with Sukhothai, the enchanting former capital. Mixing business with pleasure has long been a key element in attracting many a MICE event to Thai shores. But let’s be honest: how much is really accomplished when you’re sprawled on a beach or out on the golf course? It is this realisation this that has inspired the Thailand Convention and Exhibition Bureau (TCEB), in conjunction with partners TICA and Pacific World, to promote some less obvious beacons on Thailand’s business circuit – starting with Sukhothai, the ancient Thai capital dating back to the 13th century.

116

A recent weekend jaunt to this enchanting province – with its haunting, UNESCO World Heritage Site ruins and lush, sweeping emeraldgreen countryside only one hour’s flight from Bangkok – aimed to prove this to a handful of executive expat movers and shakers. And proved a big hit, with many admitting to not having considered the area a potential MICE destination – until now. Aside from visits to the sublime ruins of the former royal capital, the itinerary included camaraderieinspiring team activities such as planting seedlings in rice paddy at an organic farm, giving alms to monks and helping out at an underprivileged school. Free of formal business attire, not to mention the cosmopolitan allures of Bangkok, this leisurely weekend proved a boon for organic, out-of-the-box brainstorming. From dawn to dusk, the conversation flowed; and ideas, not just business cards, exchanged. If you’d like information on arranging a MICE event to Sukhothai – or another unusual but similarly inspiring destination around the country – get in touch with the various partners who collaborated on this trip:

business

n Thailand Convention and Exhibition Bureau (TCEB) | www. tceb.or.th n Thailand Incentive and Conference Association (TICA) | www.tica.or.th n Pacific World Thailand (PAC World) | www.pacificworld-th.com bangkok 101

Reference

survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words. Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement). The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then. Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you? I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

118

sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná ˘ thôt kho khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669 LOST CREDIT CARD CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) MasterCard 02-260-8572 Visa 02-273-1199 or 02-273-7449 MEDICAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHONE SERVICES Bangkok Directory Inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 International Long Distance 100 Overseas Subscribers Call 001 TOURISM OFFICES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist Information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-282- 9773, 02-2505500 | daily 8:30am- 4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02- 250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www. bangkoktourist.com IMMIGRATION DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am- 4pm EMBASSIES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02344-6300 | www.austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place 15F, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.bangkokinternational.gc.ca bangkok 101

Cambodia 185 Ratchadamri Rd | 02957-5851-2 | RECBKK@hotmail.com China 57 Ratchadaphisek Rd, Din Daeng | 02-245-7043/4 | www.chinaembassy.or.th India 46 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02258- 0300/5 | www.indianembassy. gov.in/bangkok Indonesia 600-602 Phetchaburi Rd | 02-252-3135/40 Japan 177 Wireless Rd | 02-696-3000, 02-207-8500 | www.th.emb-japan.go.jp Laos 520, 502/1-3 Wang Thonglang Rd | 02-539-6667 | www.bkklaoembassy.com Malaysia 33-35 South Sathorn Rd | 026296800 | ww.kin.gov.my/perwakilan/ bangkok Myanmar 132 North Sathorn Rd | 02233-2237, 02-234-4698, 02-234-4789 | mebkk@asianet.co.th New Zealand M Thai Tower, 14F All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu Rd | 02-254-2530 | www.nzembassy.com Philippines 760 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-259-0139/40 | www.philembassybangkok.net Singapore 129 South Sathorn Rd | 02-286-2111 United Kingdom 1031 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-8333 | www.ukinthailand. fco.gov.uk U.S.A. 120-122 Witthayu Rd | 02205-4000; www.usa.or.th/embassy Vietnam 83/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-251-5836 TRANSPORT PLANE Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Airport Call Centre 02-132-1888 Bangkok Airways 02-265-5555 | www.bangkokair.com Air Asia Suvarnabhumi International Airport A1-062 FG, Concourse A | 02-5159999 | www.airasia.com Thai Airways Int’l Suvarnabhumi International Airport F4, Row F | 02-356-1111 | www.thaiair.com TRAIN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 reference

contacts

Train

SKYTRAIN/SUBWAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-612-2444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BUS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mor Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai)

Surfing BKK There’s a million websites out there, all desperate for a good quick click – but these are the only ones we would take home to meet our mum. n www.1stopbangkok.com Everything you wanted to know about Bangkok but were afraid to ask. n www.thaivisa.com General, boring, immigration type stuff and an entertaining messageboard. n www.bangkokartmap.com Find out where the pretty pictures and free wine’s at. n www.paknamweb.com Blogs, blogs and more blogs. Everything from the Thai lottery to sizzling streetfood. n www.movieseer.com Popcorn? Check. Emergency sweater? Check. Showtimes? Check here! 119

Reference

getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options.

also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the public taxi queue outside the terminal, a B50 surcharge is added to the metered fare. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers. MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle 120

taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-23 Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS reference

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.24) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance. Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3. CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B8 to B18. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. bangkok 101