Bangkok 101 - August 2010 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

august 2010 100 baht

Shophouses – 4 x 8m Photography by Peter Nitsch

t h r o u g h shophouses t h e e y e s –o 4f xh 8m is kingdom

1 on 1: cherie hausler Metrobeat: napa on 26 Very Thai: nicknames & namecards Daytrip: koh si chang Upcountry Escape: sam roi yot Making Merit: afect

august 2010

HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

publisher’s

letter

Sam Roi Yot National Park

August 2010

As the rainy season pitter patters on, this month guest shooter Peter Nitsch leads us out of the sodden streets and into the cramped but bone dry confines of those ubiquituous Bangkok hole-in-the-walls: the shophouse. Photofeature Shophouses - 4 x 8m’s simply rendered still-lifes grant us a borderline voyeuristic look into the life of these private universes made up of things hoarded, forgotten, treasured and sold. Head to p.46 for a taster, and do be sure to check out the exhibition, which is being held, fittingly, at shophouse gallery Kathmandu over on Silom’s Soi Pan until late September. For this issue’s interview we speak with part of the team behind Eat Me, a restaurant in the Silom area that has been tantalising diners with its modern international flavours and walls hung with awesome art for over a decade. Though journalist and food stylist Cherie Hausler spends much of her time back in her homeland Australia, in 1 on 1 she proves something of an authority on enjoying inner-city Bangkok too. Meanwhile, over in Metrobeat are rundown of what’s happening when reveals that the city continues to regain some of the cultural spark it lost in recent months (though international acts are still steering clear). Whereever you go at this time of year, a trail of dark rain clouds will likely follow, so this month’s selection of escapes revolve around exploration, not sunning yourself. In Upcountry Escape we romp around the verdant peaks of Sam Roi Yot National Park. This month’s daytrip details Koh Si Chang island, another seaside haven blessed with natural beauty but little appeal for beach bums. And our National Park’s page spotlights Sai Thong, a national park up in Chaiyaphum with mountainside meadows flush with pink seasonal flowers. In Making Merit we also investigate the work of Afect, an NGO that offers volunteer trips amid Chiang Rai province’s Akha hill tribes. Time your trip right and you’ll arrive to see their Swing Festival. As always we’re happy that you chose Bangkok 101. We hope all of the above – and the usual best of the Big Mango features and capsule reviews you know us for – inspires you to pack a brolly or poncho and get out there, in spite of the washed out weather. Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

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contributors Peter Nitsch

Peter Nitsch is one of the foremost documentary photographers in Germany. His work has won many accolades; the bronze medal of the renowned Los Angeles International Photography Award, among others. Nitsch lives and works in Munich and Bangkok. The cultural process of upheaval in Southeast Asia and especially the conflict between Thai identity and the globalised living conditions in the region are both focuses of his work.

Philip CornwelSmith

Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness: Thailand and international magazines.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Author Brian Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s new wave of textiles and furniture in his recent coffee table volume Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and current affairs for such publications as New York Times, Art AsiaPacific and Forbes. A former resident of New York City and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

Tom Mintier

From covering the Vietnam War as an army photographer to heading up CNN bureaus in London and Bangkok, Tom Mintier is one of the most recognised and respected media figures in Thailand today. An Emmy award-winning television news journalist, Tom covered many events live for CNN, including the 1989 student uprising in Tiananmen Square and the fall of the Berlin Wall. Currently a consultant at AMATA Corp and professor at Thammasat University in Bangkok, Tom continues to train local journalists.

Steven Pettifor

British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia.com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Staff Writer Nattaphol Suksuyuth Graphic Director Yuthtaya Sangnak Art Designer Narong Srisaiya Editorial Assistant Piyakwan Mettaprasert Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Ashley Simcox, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,TAT Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Sales & Marketing Manager Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Pradchya Kanmanee Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2009. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents snapshots

8 10 11 12 14 15 16 17

101 picks 1 on 1: cherie hausler events calendar metro beat history chronicle of thailand customs very thai: nicknames & namecards

august 2010

arts 44 45 46 54 55 56 57

contemporary art exhibitions photo feature: shophouses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4 x 8m performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening

sightseeing 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 26 28 29 30 32 33 34 37 38 39 40 42

orientation riverside route101:rattanakosin route101: chinatown route101: silom & sathorn route101: sukhumvit route101: pathumwan siam and pratunam temples historic buildings kids in the city & shrines museums the great outdoors what next? day tripping buddhist temples of thailand national parks upcountry festivals daytrip: koh sichang upcountry escape: sam roi yot

table of

contents

august 2010

accommodation 106 boutique bangkok

health & wellness 76

108 109 110 111

food & drinks 58 59 60 61 62 63 68 72 73 74 75 76 77 78

dining in bangkok meal deals thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants neighbourhood nosh: soi ari dim-sum brunching tea late dining sweet treats all you can eat wine

sports

112 spectator sports 113 active sports

business 114 business 115 real estate

couses & services

116 cooking, meditation & thai massage, courses 117 making merit: afect

nightlife 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars bars jazz clubs live music nightlife areas pub crawling

body & beauty spas wellness centres medical tourism

reference 118 survival thai 119 contacts 120 getting around

shopping 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105

unique boutique stuff shopping tips bangkok design mall crawl chatuchak market markets sidewalks

106

108

Tokyo Style Japanes with a Modern Atmosphere

First time in Thailand, Rakuza Tokyo is a Tokyo Style Japanese restaurant With an indoor and outdoor atmosphere. The restaurant is suitable for casual dining or enjoy a glass of wine with friends. Our Japanese Chef integrates food perfectly into a unique Tokyo style and taste. Chef's Tasting Course (1 Drink included)…990B Our Fish Direct From "TSUKIJI" fish market , Japan MENU

■ Otoro Sushi...180B ■ Churoto Sushi...150B ■ Seared Akami Sushi...120B ■ Roasted scallop, sweet shrimp and sea urchin with caviar in chardonnay creamsauce...480B ■ Tender chicken and mushrooms grilled in a black pepper TERIYAKI sauce...480B

Tokyo Style Japanese Restaurant -Rakuza Tokyo264/1 Grass Thonglor ,between Thonglor 10-12 (Sukhumvit55) Wattana, BKK 10110 Tel : +662 – 714 – 9897 18:00-25:00 (Food last order 22:00) (Drink last order 24:00) Close : Monday

Snapshots ee

history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lots of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the Sathorn/Silom

districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas and leafy public parks. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. These gradually-expanding public transpor tation networks, with their

bright, snaking trains carrying wideeyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped relieve the city’s notorious traffic congestion and pollution, but given this City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ but instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It is no surprise that The Guinness Book of Records registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

chronicle of thailand

16 August 1968: Singer Surapol shot dead

Fans mourn the killing of ‘Thailand’s Elvis’

Surapol Sombatcharoen, often described as ‘Thailand’s Elvis’ or the ‘King of Luk Thung,’ died instantly from a bullet wound to the head after three armed men fired at him while he was climbing into his parked car. Surapol, 38, was killed following his performance at a concert at the Saengchand Theatre in Khampaengsaen district in Nakhon Pathom. The motive for his murder was unclear, but police suspected Surapol had been the victim of a hired assassin because of the manner in which the murder was carried out. The singer’s widow, Srinual, offered a 50,000 baht reward for information leading to the arrest of the three unidentified gunmen. During his 16-year career, Surapol recorded more than a thousand songs, many of which became top hits. His singing was famous in neighbouring Laos as well. During his Buddhist funeral ceremonies at Thonburi’s Wat Paknam, more than a thousand fans came each night to pay their respects. Newspapers reporting on his death were in high demand, leading to a jump of about 30,000 copies in circulation for two days after his death. Surapol had been accused of having ‘too many female fans’ but he was known as a hard worker who also wrote lyrics for other popular singers, including Pongsri Woranuch and Praiwan Lookpetch.

Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. In each issue, we serialise a news story that sheds light on this month in history. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books | B1,450 | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | www.chronicleofthailand.com bangkok 101

snapshots

Snapshots

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king with deep reverence for the monarchy. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family.Therefore, stand quietly when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and other public places. Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 16

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting.Thais don’t usually shake hands but rather wai (a prayerlike gesture with hands clasped in front of the face).This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows respect and humility.The higher the hands are raised, the more respect is being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (coolhearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ don’t step on the threshold ■ don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ be considerate when taking photographs ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

very thai Philip Cornwel-Smith

Nicknames & Namecards

What Thais call each other is a serious business, whether lucky, rhyming or cute

Photo by Philip Cornwel-Smith, illustration by John Goss

“What’s your name?” asks a Bangkok English teacher. “Yes,” the Thai student replies. “No, what are you called?” rephrases the American teacher. “Yes. My name is Yes, Khun Yes,” repeats the student, wondering why his English name wasn’t understood. Thai nicknames are often as startling as they are playful. He could just as puzzlingly have replied “Oh”, “Eh”, “X”, “Boy”, “Not”, “Joke” or, wait for it… “God.” In all but form-filling and formal situations, the Thai use cheu len – play names. You can know someone for ages before learning their real first name and maybe never hear their family name. While some sound fun – Eew, Oui, Oei, Nooi, Dtik – most mean something. Boy’s names may mean brave, strong or noble. Girls usually get very delicate, pretty or charming names, often Thai words for flowers, gems, scents, or wistful things. Nicknames can also describe the baby’s size: Lek (little), Noi (small), Yai (big), Uan (fat); or skin tone: Daeng (red), Dum (black), Som (orange). Non-human names apparently fool evil spirits from claiming kids. Hence people answer to Moo (pig), Gob (frog), or Gai (chicken), and even to farmyard sounds: Oud (oink), Guk (cluck), Jiab (chirp). Once expressive of rural culture, nicknames now also reflect modernity and globalisation, such as Bank or Benz. Old cheu len may re-appear in English: Fern, Ant, Rose, Ink, Oak, Bird, Baby. Others use foreign words, often shortened from the end, like Bo (from Jumbo), Taem (from Je t’aime), and Lo (from Marlboro). Surnames matter less than first names, except to posh families, so they are often only encountered on namecards. Unlike the casual tossing around of nicknames, namecards embody the giver’s face, so their exchange involves care, especially among Sino-Thai. Bowing slightly, you pass it with the right hand, or pinching the top corners so it faces the receiver, who handles it carefully. With so much face at stake, it’s no wonder Thais stick to nicknames. Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt each month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic. Snap up a copy at any good book shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith bangkok 101

snapshots

Sightseeing

orientation

greater bangkok Cha

Thewet & Dusit

ph ra

Ko Rattanakosin Ch

hray

Thonburi

Chinatown

Siam Square & Pratunam

Sukhumvit Chaophraya

– steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is Modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan (p.24) is

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries and have different, tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.20) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th Century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly

where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting ‘burbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked streets in fridge-cool comfort! When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along smelly Klong Saen Saeb (p.120) and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.26), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly. In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

bangkok 101

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on. The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which courses a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables click on to www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13 : Phra Athit Bkk’s young bohemians pensively sip coffee in the cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street. There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

d. tR hi At ra

Na Phra Lan Rd.

Rd. arat Mah

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Ratchada

mnoen K

Kalayang Matri Rd.

lang Rd.

N5 : Ratchawongse Bangkok’s Chinatown! Taoist temples, mazy backstreets, mottled shophouses and no end of Sino sights, noises Rd. Muangand smells make it a must. Bamrung

Royal Grand Palace

d. ng R i Wa Tha Wat Po

Charoen Krung Rd.

ai Rd. Sanam Ch

N15 :Thewet Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

N9 : Tha Chang Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

Amulet Market

N15

N13

Wat Mahatat

Chinatown

Pak Klong Talad

Pahurat

Kl Phr ao a P Br ok id ge

Wongwian Ya

bangkok 101

det P

hra

Cha

o Ta

ksin

Penninsula

Wongwian Yai

Krung Thonburi Rd. KrungThonburi

Som

Saphan Taksin Accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to Mandarin Oriental, Pennisula and Millenium Hilton hotels. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

N1 : Oriental The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

Millenium Hilton

Rd.

N6 : Memorial Bridge/ Saphan Pood Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

tc ha wo n

N6 Wat Arun

N2 : Sri Phaya On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

N8 :Tha Tien Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.26) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

Ratc hada mno Sana en N m ai Rd Luan . g

N10

ra ge Ph id et Br o mdla So K n Pi

N10 : Wang Lang Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.54) are all in the vicinity.

N1 Taks in Br

idg

e SapanTaksin

sightseeing

Sightseeing

route 101 Whether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

Rattanakosin

elcome to Rattanakosin Island: birthplace of modern Bangkok and spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Rows of peeling old shophouses and glittering temple complexes – all gently curving roofs and soaring spires – pepper this hallowed area hemmed in by a bendy stretch of the Chao Phraya River and man-made canals. Start off at Wat Arun (p.26), also known as the Temple of Dawn.Though it actually predates the Rattanakosin era, it’s a cornerstone of Thai history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin then, once at the river, jump on an express boat heading right, upriver (ask someone to point one out). Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its soaring central Khmer-style spire, is easy to spot. After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross back to Tha Tien pier and make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.27). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles de-knotted at the famous Thai massage school. Your temple initiation over, now head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.26) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.26). Ignore the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to boggle at the imagination that could give rise to such an ethereal royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.28). Getting into this Thai culture stuff? Then exit and head north across ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.30). Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably find it is early evening. The rest of your evening is up to you – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some pad thai noodles with the backpackers on Khao San Road. Back near Wat Po, cocktail bar Amorosa, with its picture-postcard views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun, is another failsafe old city walking tour closer. 20

sightseeing

bangkok 101

aowarat as it is known locally is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, incense-shrouded Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in those pharmacy windows. And at night Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and on your right you’ll spot Bangkok’s main, Renaissance-style train station. Head straight on from Exit 1 and cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap Thai-China Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.27) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex.

bangkok 101

cHINATOWN

Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1 Rd). This narrow wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than Hello Kitty hairclips and schoolbags on offer now. Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonial-style warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.104) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on, there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neon-lit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Rd will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery like T&K Seafood to give your feet a well-earned rest.

sightseeing

Sightseeing Lumpini Park

route 101

he Sathorn/Silom area personifies Bangkok’s split personality. The white-collar crux of Bangkok’s business world by day, this bustling area kicks it up a gear after office hours, with a jiving scene of clubs, expat pubs, some very shady characters, and one oh-so-notorious little lane. Set the alarm and beat the sun to the punch; there’s much to be done today. Take the MRT to the Sam Yan stop. Walk towards Silom and take a venomous venture into the Snake Farm (see p.32) and watch wranglers extract poison from serpents. If you dare you can even pet a cobra or kiss a python! If you’re still alive, continue on for a nice stroll in Lumphini Park, Bangkok’s largest public open area. If it’s the weekend take a taxi into the past with former P.M. Kukrit’s Heritage House (see p.28). By now you’re probably famished, so go back down Convent Road, a tree-shaded soi peppered with Mexican, Japanese, Italian and various other foreigner-orientated eating establishments. After filling up follow the throngs of office workers into Soi Lalai Sup (“the soi that melts your assets”), squeezing through the chaos, hunting down bargains on clothes, gifts and other knick-knack paddywhacks.

Sarasin Rd.

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Further down Silom on Thanon Pan, you will come across Wat Mahamariamman. Referred to by locals as Wat Kaek, it is the most famous – and colourful – Hindu temple in Bangkok, incense-shrouded rituals performed here daily at noon. Right across the street is Kathmandu Gallery featuring great photo exhibits, and also Silom Village which is a nice spot to pick up some handicrafts. Just before sunset hits, head up to the top floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel and grab a clubby bar chair at the aptly titled Moon Bar (see p.85). Two hundred metres above the pavement, this bar’s main attraction is the completely unobstructed 360° Bangkok panorama.

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sightseeing

1. Snake Farm 2. Lumphini Park 3. Soi Convent 4. Soi Lalai Sup 5. Wat Mahamariamman 6. Lumphini National Boxing Stadium 7. Suan Lum Night Bazaar 8. Patpong

The night is still far too young. Cab it to Lumpini National Boxing Stadium (see p.112) around the corner, which will guarantee adrenaline rushes. For something less violent, Suan Lum Night Bazaar (see p.104), a pricier but less sweaty version of Chatuchak, is just seconds away. The Joe Louis Puppet Theater (see p.54) here is great for a cultural show. There’s also a good beer garden. Time to think about wrapping the day up. If you’re a jazz-lover a class act can always be found at Niu’s on Silom, as can superlative Italian food and service. Or, if wine’s your thing, head to suave oenophile hangout Opus. If you’re looking for something more youthful and hip, the bars and clubs in Silom Soi 4 will suffice. If you’re gay, look no further than same-sex central, Silom Soi 2. And if you’re feeling frisky and don’t mind being harassed by aggressive touts, immerse yourself in the decadent not-so-underworld that is Soi Patpong. Here jaded street vendors sell cheap trinkets and knockoffs yards from grubby girly bars. Be careful around here and do not follow strangers offering you free shows. But don’t hold back, because whatever you choose to do in this part of town at this time, you’re most likely to wake up with absolutely no recollection of it.

bangkok 101

ike Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner, Sukhumvit Road is a futuristic thriller – a flawed, frenetic, yet often compelling urban streetscape. Hotel, condominium and office blocks smother its skyline, while down below a Who’s Who of world races moves anonymously amongst them. Along its hi-octane main stretch traffic, pollution and noise assail the senses, while down its many flanking sois calmer, more serene atmospheres unfold. Get a quick jump on the day with a morning stroll around the lake in Benjakitti Park. Located adjacent to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, which hosts world class expos weekly (see calendar p.11), it is easily accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. Next head to the Siam Society for a quick shot of culture. On Asok Road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross), it’s an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures and exhibitions. And out back is a stunning Northern Lanna teak house/ ethnological museum. After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain and off to Phrom Phong station. Here you will find the cultural epicentre

bangkok 101

Sukhumvit of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, Emporium. While you can easily get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, worldclass designers here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) on the 6th floor, which continually stages thought-provoking, and usually free, exhibitions. Afterwards, a jaunt among the modern sculptures, trim greenery and cooing pigeons of adjoining

sightseeing

Benjasiri Park will remind you there’s more to life than luxury brands. Shopaholics should probe Thong Lo, staking out this unabashedly minted neighbourhood for designer clothing, jewellery, furniture and books. Or, should you be toying with matrimony, wedding garb. Hop on over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice of neon Tokyo. Once dinnertime rolls around check out “Japan Town” in Thong Lo Soi 13, where a clutch of great Japanese restaurants like Uomasa lurk. Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, nighttime is definitely the right time. Drinking, dining, dancing, debauchery – it’s all here. Perfect for a puff on a shisha pipe, Sukhumvit Soi 3 is Bangkok’s very own Little Arabia. Those looking to see how the city’s young upper crust like to par-tay should head to one of the jumping joints along Thong Lo or Ekamai. Sukhumvit Soi 11 – home of nightclub veterans like Bed Supperclub and Q Bar (p.82) – meanwhile draws the international clubbers. Looking for the best of Sukhumvit’s beau monde haunts? Then head on up to Long Table (p.84): a cocktail at this 25th floor design bar, with its movers and shakers and electric panoramas, is not easily forgotten.

Sightseeing

route 101 BACC

Pathumwan

Siam and Pratunam

Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride on Klong Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at ri R

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1. Erawan shrine 2. Pratunam market 3. Baiyoke Tower 4. Panthip Plaza 5. Jim Thompson’s House

sightseeing

Grand Hyatt Erawan

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lthough much of Thailand’s biggest shopping complex CentralWorld was burned to the ground by arsonists at the tail-end of the recent political protests, the nearby Siam Square and Pratunam areas are still Bangkok shopaholic central. From the chaos of the shop4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. And, hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the khlong (canal) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 105), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand.

Jim Thompson’s House (see p.28). Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi. Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the sinuous concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modern-art scene central. Next up is Siam Paragon. This up-scale shopping and entertainment complex houses scores of great dining options, a world-class cinema complex and an impressive array of luxury and high street fashion bands from around the world. On a tight budget? Don’t worry. Every night (except Mondays) after 9pm, the footpaths along Siam Square on Rama I Rd transform into a mini-Chatuchak Weekend Market. Bangkok teenagers and young adults alike war over cheap but trendy T-shirts, jeans, dresses, accessories, brand new (and sometimes secondhand brand named) leather goods like bags, wallets, and shoes. Choose wisely if you opt for secondhand items.

Ratchadam

Siam Paragon

Plaza Athenee

JW Marriott

Conrad

RATCHADAMRI

bangkok 101

Sightseeing

temples THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m² royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. Though King Bhumibol now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth seeing, and there are some state

Wat Arun

The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

rooms and halls open to visitors.These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, this forms the north-eastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. After being moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings and then taken by the Lao to Vientiane, Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and placed it at the centre of his new capital. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat

Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature examples of Thai mural art documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced. WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

sightseeing

bangkok 101

The Giant Swing

WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site bangkok 101

for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the respected Maha Makut Buddhist University, this temple is par ticularly important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm | B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets sightseeing

is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good for-tune. วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-9pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: a Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. 28

sightseeing

bangkok 101

Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium (see below). Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Eskimo. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones.The city’s parks (see p.32) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.103), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo (p.32) is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World (p.32) is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. On a more scholarly note, there’s a cracking museum aimed at inquisitive young minds. The Children’s Discovery Museum has a science and nature theme and is handily located near to Chatuchak. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old. The Children’s Discovery Museum (map C1) Kamphaeng Petch 4 Rd, Chatuchak | 02-6157333 | www.bkkchildren museum.com | Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am- 6pm | B150 Near the Chatuchak weekend market, this interactive museum aimed at younger guests covers science, nature and the environment. It also hosts regular courses and activity camps. พิพิธภัณฑ์เด็กกรุงเทพมหานคร

Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์ ตรงข้ามสวนจตุจักร

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which bangkok 101

performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Ganesha Shrine

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-thekids discovery museum, taking in prehistoric Suvarnabhumi, the foundation of Ayutthaya and the country’s modernisation. Design company Story! Inc delivered the content and conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and turgid text with pop graphics and interactive gizmos galore. Among the many edutaining activities, highlights include dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a vibrant touch screen and firing cannonballs at Burmese war-elephants. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the polished teak floors, open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance stylings of this gorgeously 30

Museum of Siam

restored former government building, designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s best-loved resident Italian architect, Mario Tamagno.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM (map B3-4) 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 02-2337027| www.bma.go.th/bmaeng/bangrak | Sat&Sun 10am-5pm | free Bangrak is one of the most traditional districts of the city, bustling with traffic and markets. Smack in the middle of it, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here; the displays can nevertheless be surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and items used in ceremonies. The real highlight is the owner herself who is willing to give you a highly personalised tour (if you call ahead), filled with anecdotes about a city long since vanished.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก เจริญกรุง ซ.43

Bangkokian Museum

sightseeing

bangkok 101

Oddball Museums

RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL (map B3) 100 Ratchadamnoen Klong Road, next to Wat Ratchanadda | www.nitasrattanakosin.com | Tues-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | 02624-0044 | adults B200, kids B50 This brand new multimedia museum tackles a part of town we all admire but few understand – Rattanakosin island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Once you’re done oggling the Grand Palace and Wat Po etc, it’s a great place to expand your knowledge of this most hallowed part of the city beyond that pithy paragraph in your guidebook. Wandering its seven rooms – free of relics but rich in dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-to-fathom history, arts, communities and traditions into much clearer focus. Learn about its creation in 1782; ancient royal ceremonies; fine performing arts like lakhon nai (court drama); evolving architectural styles and much more. Also includes an observation balcony with views over the old city.

นิทรรศน์รัตนโกสินทร์ ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง

Several museums in and around Bangkok delve into Thailand’s wacky and idiosyncratic side. Definitely the most macabre, the Si Quey Forensics Museum revels in pickled body parts and cadavers of serial killers. A close second, the Corrections Museum recreates the rough justice meted out to crims in the not so old days (you’ll think twice about that sly toke after a trip here). The Museum of Counterfeit Goods displays Thailand’s best forgeries; as long as you call ahead (and don’t use it as a means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong the next day), you’re welcome. On the outskirts, the weekends only House of Museums is a two-storey sprawl of retro curiosities. Finally, if you’re interested in Thai cinema, walk among recreated film sets, old 16mm cameras and waxwork figures of local cine heroes at the Thai Film Museum in Nakhom Pathom. Si Quey Forensics Museum (Official Name ‘Siriraj Medical Museum’) 2 Prannok road, Bangkoknoi | www.si.mahidol.ac.th | 02- 419-7000 ext 6363 | Mon-Sat 9am – 4pm | B40

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศริ ริ าช ถ.พรานนก

Corrections Museum 436 Bangkok Remand Prison, Mahachai Rd., Samranrat, Phra Nakhon | Mon-Fri 9am - 4pm | 02-226-1704 | free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ราชทัณฑ์ เรือนจำเก่า ใกล้กบั สวนรมณีนาถ

House of Museums 170/17 Moo 17 Soi Klong Po 2, Salathammasop Rd., Taweewattana | 089-666-2008 | http://houseofmuseums.siam.edu | Sat-Sun 10am – 5pm | B30 บ้านพิพธิ ภัณฑ์ ซ.คลองโพ 2 ศาลาธรรมสพน์ Thai Film Museum 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom| www.nfat.org | 02-482- 2013-15 | weekday: appointment only, weekend tours: 10am, noon, 3pm | free หอภาพยนตร์แห่งชาติ 94 หมู่ 3 ถ.พุทธมณฑลสาย 5

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bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

the great outdoors

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

Rama IX Park

CHATUCHAK and QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

Siam Ocean World (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’reThai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing. สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 bangkok 101

Stood rapt in front of the Grand Palace? Check. Got your neck clicked at Wat Po? Check. Survived the scam artists? Just about. Ok, now you’ve lost your sightseer ‘L’ plates it’s time to explore some less tourist-thronged Bangkok addresses.

what next?

1 For a cycle around the parts most tourists never reach, give Spice Roads (www.spiceroads.com) a shout. Alternatively, borrow a bike for free from one of 8 counters scattered around the Old City, courtesy of the Bangkok Metropolitan Association (www.bangkoktourist.com). 2 Volunteering is a great way to give back to this city

we all get so much out of. Don’t know where to look? Idealistic expat initiative In Search of Sanuk (www.insearchofsanuk.com) signposts ways you can have fun helping people. 3 Did Jim Thompson’s? Gorgeous but groaning with tourists? Fortunately it’s not the only stilted teak house oasis in town. Suan Pakkard Palace offers a similarly beguiling set-up off the tourist trail; as does M.R. Kukrit’s House (p.28). Other teak fetishists swear by Amantee (www.amantee.com) out in the northern suburbs.

4 Just across from MBK mall, the Guggenheim-like Bangkok Art & Culture Centre lures in dandyish creative types (and the odd curious shopper) with its mixed-bag line-up of Thai contemporary and itinerant global art. Want to know where the best Thai art is at? Then pop a copy of our Bangkok Art Map into your totebag on your way out.

5 Tour company Smiling Albino (www.smilingalbino. com) offers well thought-out, culturally-attuned excursions in and around the capital. Definitely its most intriguing is its two-day rollick through authentic old neighbourhoods and markets reminiscent of Bangkok circa 1910. 6 Housed in a beautifully restored old government building only five minutes stroll from Wat Po, the Museum of Siam (www.ndmi.or.th) traces the evolution of the Thai people in a funky, hands-on fashion. Touch-screen videos and interactive gizmos galore replace the usual dusty relics and stress the country’s multiculturalism and modernisation. 7 Once the city is licked, time to see what marvels lurk just outside it. Popular daytrips close to home include Bangkrachao, a lush peninsula of undeveloped land just across from Bangkok’s Klong Toey district; and Ko Kret, a man-made island in the river famous for its snacking, temples and kilns churning out cheap pottery. See Daytrips (p.34) for more. bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing Lop Buri

Uthai Thani

day tripping

Chai Nat Nakhon Ratchasima

Ang Thong Saraburi

Suphan Buri

It’s easy getting around in Thailand, and there are plenty of worthwhile excursions within easy reach of Bangkok; some one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent. AYUTTHAYA The capital of Siam from the 14th to 18th century, Ayutthaya was one of the richest cities in the East, until it was plundered by the Burmese in 1767 and its ruins left to nature. Today a Unesco World Heritage Site, its remnants – all Khmer-esque stupas, crumbling bricks and Buddha faces entwined in tree roots – make a wonderful daytrip. The 85km journey is best done by river. The major hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City. Many combine the trip with a visit to the Bang Pa-in Summer Palace.A former royal garden retreat, this presents a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly reflecting King Rama V’s love for all things European. Once at Ayutthaya, hop on a bike and scoot round highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. . LOPBURI Lopburi’s illustrious ruins date back over 1,000 years and can done on foot. During the Dvaravati period (6th-11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo until the Khmers took over the region during Angkor’s 10th century heyday. The Thais took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. And in the 1600s, King Narai made the city the second capital and fortified it against the Dutch navy 34

Ayutthaya

Kanchanaburi

Nakhon Pathom

Koh Kred

Pathumthani

Nakhon Nayok

Sa Kaeo

Nonthaburi Bangkok

Ratchaburi

Samut Sakhon Samut Songkhram

Samut Prakan

Chachoengsao

Chon Buri

Phetchaburi

threatening Ayutthaya. The remnants of the palace he built now serve as a public museum. The city is also littered with crumbling wats (temples) blending Khmer and Thai styles. Watch your belongings: the most famous – threeprang shrine Phra Prang Sam Yot (a prang is a spire-like vault) – is home to some mischievous macaque monkeys.

monuments and buildings. Built by the same benefactor, the smaller Erawan Museum features a towering threeheaded elephant sculpture. Inside are antiques and a stucco chapel, but most Thais come for the fantastical gardens and to pray for good luck at the esteemed shrine.-

NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120m high chedi (or stupa), the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century version. Situated around 55km west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in Thailand, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history.The other big draw is the Rose Garden, a picturesque 70-acre park featuring botanical gardens and mock-Thai village cultural shows.

KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film The Bridge on the River Kwai, Kanchanaburi town is a popular weekend getaway, offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreigners are attracted by the area’s history – namely the “Thai Burma Death Railway,” built by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The lush countryside around Kanchanaburi is home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking.

SAMUT PRAKAN Just down the road – 29km away – Samut Prakan has three big draws.The Crocodile Farm offers daily croc wrestling and elephant shows. Muang Boran (the Ancient City) is an open-air museum park featuring over 100 replicas of landmark Thai temples,

KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Home to wild elephants, deer, boar, tigers and innumerable species of birdlife, Khao Yai (2½ hour’s drive from Bangkok) is one of Thailand’s most impressive national parks. Hike through the jungle to altitudes of over 1,000m. Hire a

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bangkok 101

guide as it’s easy to get lost – the park is over 2,000km2 in size, and local maps are not to be trusted. Fancy staying the night? There are state-run bungalows in the park and luxe resorts nearby. Wine lover? Some of Thailand’s top wineries – Chateau des Brumes, Granmonte Estate, PB Valley – are also in the vicinity. NAKHON RATCHASIMA (KORAT) Both a silk and trade hub, Nakhon Ratchasima is the country’s largest province and home to Korat, its second largest city.The moated town with city gates is rewarding; and the countryside has a surfeit of Khmer ruins left over from the Angkor period, the best being in the recently restored Phi Mai Historical Park (60km north of Korat). Pak Thong Chai (30km north of Korat) is Thailand’s leading silk village. And for horse-riding and the chance to milk cows, visit Farm Chok Chai, a working farm popular with Stetsonwearing agro-tourists. KOH KRED Highly recommended, this ickle car-free island sits on a kink in the Chao Phraya River and is home to a Mon community renowned for their ancestral red-clay pottery skills. Seriously sleepy during the week, the palm-clad place goes into commercial overdrive on weekends. Bangkok cityslickers stroll its narrow footpaths, past working pottery warehouses, old Buddhist temples and homes selling hand-finished ceramics and tasty Mon kanom (snacks). By the time they’ve gone full circle, a few hours later, they’re smitten. Take a regular express boat up the Chao Phraya River to Nonthaburi and hire a long-tailed boat (B500 approx). Alternatively, on Sundays, the Chao Phraya Express ferry offers a guided tour for B300 (www. chaophrayaboat.co.th). bangkok 101

SARABURI Though often overs hadowed by neighbouring Lopburi, this central province, 108km north of Bangkok, still packs a thrill or two. Its 1½m-long Buddha footprint makes Wat Phra Putthabhat one of the most important temples in the region. And caves, like Tham Phra Pothisat, draw crowds thanks to their beautiful stalactite formations and Buddhist bas-reliefs, as does Chet Sao Noi Waterfall. The main attraction though is definitely out in the fields – from Nov-Jan bright sunflowers blanket the land, providing vibrant photo opportunities galore. PHETCHABURI Sacred Buddhist caves, neoclassical palaces, a quirky provincial market town – there’s more to Petchaburi province than the beach resort town of Cha Am. Best savoured over a long-weekend, sights include Wat Yai, a beautiful 17th century temple complex; and the stalactite and sculpture strewn Tham Khao Luang cave. To the west is also the scandalously underrated Kaeng Krachan National Park, where camp sites, butterfly and bird watching, water rafting and a stunning reservoir fringed by undulating hills await. CHACHOENGSAO An hour’s drive to the east, Chachoengsao rarely make the travel guides but is popular with locals. Smothered along the banks of the Bang Pakong River, the town boasts the temple Wat Sothon and 100-year old market Talad Baan Mai, where vendors flog traditional delicacies from within wooden King Rama V-era shophouses. Renting a boat to go see the old teak and stilted houses that line the sightseeing

sides – and the dolphins who migrate here between Nov and Feb – is also popular. RATCHABURI Ratchaburi’s Damnoen Saduak floating market is the hokiest in the land. But “The Land of the Kings” does have other qualities: unspoilt klongs (canals), hot stream Bo Khloung, the cascading Kaew Chan waterfall, and stalagmite and stalactite caves. For artsy-boho types there’s also the Suan Silp Baan Din Arts Centre, staging performances of old Thai arts and workshops. And at Wat Khanon temple, NangYai puppetry (an evocative but dying artform where puppet silhouettes are projected onto fabric screens) survives. Performances are on Saturdays. CHON BURI When it comes to this industrialised province on the eastern seaboard, we say skip Pattaya, Thailand’s Sodom-onSea, and head for Koh Si Chang, a small fishing island a mere 40-minute/B40 ferry hop across the Gulf of Thailand from Si Racha Town. King Rama V loved it there; and after a few hours exploring its hillside temples, summer palaces and pebbly beaches, so will you. On the way home, Baen San is a local, bucket-and-spade beach; and Talad Nong Mon, in Chonburi town, offers toothsome regional snacks like khao lam (sweet sticky rice in bamboo tubes). SUPHAN BURI This is where it all went down: where the legendary King Naresuan fended off Burma and rid Thailand of foreign occupation, freeing it from the Pegu Kingdom way back in 1592. At the Don Chedi, 30km from central Suphan Buri, there is a statue erected in his honour, as well as an exhibition hall and museum. Other draws include the Thai Rice Farmer’s Museum, Bueng Chawak Aquarium (64km out of town), and ancient temples dating back almost 1,000 years.

Sightseeing

NEARBY ISLANDS/BEACHES

No time to jet down to Koh Samui or Phuket? A handful of beach resorts and islands close to Bangkok are perfect for last-minute escapes.These span the gamut from lonely beaches offering the odd reggae shack and driftwood sign, to cosmopolitan beach resorts that have adopted the ‘built it and they will come’ philosophy with mixed results. ■ PATTAYA/JOMTIEN Most famous for its seedy nightlife, Pattaya’s been trying – well, sort of – to re-establish itself as a family destination. Hundreds of hotels and eateries ensure competitive prices; and while the surfeit Koh Chang of self-enclosed resorts means it’s easy for those with kids or a sleaze intolerance to avoid the girly bars, sister beach Jomtien is still a better option. ■ KOH CHANG A large jungle-clad hilly gem that’s been found by the deluxe hotel industry. Spending the night in hammocks is impossible, but fantastic beaches are still here, some hiend touristy, some budget backpacker-y. Catch a bus from the Ekkamai bus station (approx 5 hours) or fly here with Bangkok Air via Trat (approx 2 hours). ■ KOH SAMET A retreat for hip Thai youngsters who invade the island to

FLOATING MARKETS

Amphawa

Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose. n DAMNOEN SADUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 1530 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang. 36

spend days swimming in clear waters and nights sipping Thai-whisky buckets or playing the guitar on the superclean beaches. It’s worth booking ahead on weekends and public holidays, lest you want to be a source of amusement as you trudge up and down the beach desperately looking for an overpriced room. ■ HUA HIN/CHA-AM The royal summer residence town receives hordes of Thai families and package tourists. The long beach is satisfying, and is dotted with plenty of top-notch resorts like Chiva Som, the Evason, Hyatt Regency, Hilton and more. The piers filled with seafood restaurants are more of an attraction, as is the addictive night market. Nearby Cha-am is Hua Hin’s smaller, less developed sister. Coach loads of Thai townies come here on weekends to fly kites, ride ponies and generally lark around in the ocean. ■ KO SI CHANG Located a cheap 45 minute ferry journey from Si Racha Town, in Chonburi province, scenic Koh Si Chang is seldom visited by foreign tourists. More fool them – though its more of a sightseer island than a sunbather island, it’s got picturesque lookouts, King Rama V era palaces and Chinese temples to explore.Those wanting to overnight can pick from a few cheap resorts and bungalows.

GETTING THERE By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 434-5558). n TALING CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday,Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly.

n AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season. GETTING THERE By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram.The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram.

GETTING THERE By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-424-5448 or 02424-1712). Damnoen Saduak

sightseeing

bangkok 101

Wat Phra Chetuphon (Wat Pho)

buddhist temples of thailand

angkok’s oldest and largest monastery occupies 25 acres adjacent to the Grand Palace is near the Tha Tian river pier, in the historic royal Ko Ratanakosin district.The grounds are divided into two separate cloistered compounds divided by Soi Chetuphon. Tourist typically visited only the northern compound, where a world-famous reclining Buddha and massage school are located, along with the main wihan and bot. Across the soi, the much less-visited southern compound contain monks’ residences and a secular school. By order of Rama I, construction on Wat Phra Chetuphon began in 1789 and was completed 16 years later. An earlier 16th century temple called Wat Photharam occupied the same site and was partially incorporated into the newer project.The short name for the original temple, Wat Pho, remains the most common moniker for its replacement. The new monastery served as a centre for traditional Thai medical knowledge. A large series of marble slabs were inscribed with medical texts, the northern temple pavilion. In 2008, the plaques were listed by the United Nations Education Scientific and Cultural Organization’s (UNESCO) Memory of the World Programme, which recognises the preservation of valuable cultural archives around the world. Pundits erected stone statues of ascetics practicing therapeutic massage and yoga postures in the northern compound, and established a training centre for traditional Thai massage that is still in operation. The massage teaching component of the programme has moved to a nearby location outside the monastery, but trainees still practice massage inside the compound. Because of this early focus on education,Thais today refer to Wat Pho as Bangkok’s first university. Many Buddha images from abandoned temples in Ayuthaya and other parts of Thailand were brought here, and today Wat Pho boasts over a thousand Buddha images, more than any other monastery in Thailand. The most famous, Phra Phuttha Saiyat, is a reclining Buddha that measures 46 meters long and 15 meters high. Build during the Third Regnum, of brick encased in plaster and then glided, the colossal image illustrates that Buddha’s passing into parinibbana (final nirvana) upon death.The soles of the figure’s feet feature inlaid mother-of-pearl designs representing the 108 different auspicious characteristics of a Buddha. In front of the pavilion containing the reclining Buddha stand four large stupas, decorated with glazed porcelain and enshrining the ashes of the first four Chakri kings. Ninety-one other stupas can be found throughout the compound. Buddhist Temples of Thailand is the first book to bring together the archetypal examples of this diverse architectural form from across the country’s key regions. Well-researched text by Southeast Asian art history expert and writer Joe Cummings, and more than 200 full-colour photographs by British photojournalist Dan White, brings the temples to life, shedding light on key architectural features, regional styles, historic murals and prominent Buddha images. Each month we present a different excerpt from one of the 40 historically or architecturally significant temples featured in it. Buddhist Temples of Thailand – Marshall Cavendish Editions | B1,195 | Available at all good book shops | Hardcover, with text by Joe Cummings and photos by Dan White

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sightseeing

Sightseeing

national parks

asily Thailand’s most untramelled tourist assests are its national parks, of which there are no less than 116 dotted all around the country. They’re a refreshing escape from breakneck Bangkok life, not to mention the hokey hill-tribe tours and Westerner-thronged (and thonged) beaches that most tourists make a beeline for. In addition to hiking trails through the forest, most offer a host of eco-tourism activities: waterfalls you can splash around in, streams raft upon and campsites snooze under the stars in. There’s one out there for every taste, from marine national parks in the deep south offering great diving amid technicolour corals, to remote forest reserves in the far north blessed with misty mountains, severe rock-scapes and bracing ‘Winter’ temperatures. Debatably the best all-rounder (and definately the most visited and easily accessible) is Khao Yai, a tropical rainforest fringed by wineries, golf courses, cattle ranches and resorts, and only an hour and a half ’s drive northeast of the big smoke. Entry for foreigners usually costs B200, though expatriots with a copy of their work-permit with them pay the same as Thais: B40. www.thaiforestbooking.com has them all covered, even includes a foreigner-friendly bungalow or campsite booking system. Below we spotlight one each month perfect for right about now.

Sai Thong National Park

During Thailand’s rainy season you need a darn good reason to tramp deep into the great outdoors. Fortunately, folks, this month we have one for you: up in the northeast’s Chaiyaphum province the Siam tulip – a seasonal pink flower which appears from June till August, and is known locally as the dok krachio – is now in beautiful bloom. Two national parks – Thep Sathit district’s Pa Hin Ngam and Nong Bua Rawe district’s Sai Thong – are softened by these rare bloomers each year, but the biggest carpet in August is usually out in Sai Thong. Also, unlike at Pa Hin Ngam, here they come in a white variation, the krachio khao. To find them head for the western ridge of Phang Hoei mountain, roughly 10km south-west of the park’s HQ. Dawn is a good time to see them, when a fog lends a spookiness to the forest meadow. But for the crisp shots you’ll need to hang around till late morning when it clears. Once that’s done, the park’s rewards are many, even if this 340km² of evergreen and deciduous forest spanning the Phang Hoei mountain range isn’t as well known as Pa Hin Ngam 50km to the south. There are cliff viewpoints you can catch a birds-eye view off; waterfalls like the now raging Sai Thong (good for swimming); and nature trails that double up as butterfly havens. Camping and bungalows available. n Contact 04-489-010, 04-421-3666 (local TAT office) | www.dnp.go.th/parkreserve or www.thaiforestbooking.com n Getting There Sai Thong is 70km west of Chaiyaphum town. Take Highway 225 to the Km 121-122 marker, turn right and drive for 7km. 38

sightseeing

bangkok 101

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

upcountry festivals

Throughout August Hua Hin/Cha-Am Golf Festival 2010

If you’re a keen swinger – a golf club swinger, that is – it’s worth heading down to the beach resort towns of Hua Hin and Cha-am, as its discounts all round at the area’s many luscious golf courses this month. Aside from green fees of only B800 baht at participating golf clubs, there will also be Sunday tournaments, longest-drive contests and heavily discounted golf products for sale. For more information call the Tourism Authority of Thailand call centre on 1672.

3 – 8 August Hua Hin Regatta

If you’re heading down to gorgeous Prachuap Khiri Khan at the end of this month, be sure to take your dinghy and life jacket.This year marks the 10th annual Hua Hin Regatta, which will be based on the beach near the Sofitel Centara Grand Resort and Villa. Hua Hin is considered the home of sailing in Thailand, largely because of the interest and one-time participation of the King, who often resides at the nearby palace. Go to www.tourismthailand.org for more.

Throughout August Blooming Dok Krachio Flowers, Chaiyaphum

The dok krachio, or seasonal Siam Tulip, may have already vanished from Chaiyaphum province’s Pa Hin Ngam National Park; but the meadows of the smaller but no less stunning Sai Thong National Park are still pretty in pink (and white, the white siam tulip also grows here). Combine your trip with a visit to the parks enchanting waterfalls, and do try and seal a night in one of the bungalows in the park. It’s easier than you think: click onto www.thaiforestbooking.com for more.

20 - 22 August The Swing Festival of the Akha Tribe, Chiang Rai

6 – 8 August Samui Film Festival

The second annual Samui Film Festival takes place at Tamarin Springs Forest Spa, between Lamai and Chaweng beaches. Fitting with this year’s ‘Nature and Spirit’ narrative themes, an openair beachside cinema will screen earthloving independent films from Thailand, Myanmar, Senegal, Canada, USA and more. The first screening each night is at 7pm. Ticket cost B400 for the evening or B900 for a three day pass. A share of the profits will go to the Samui Mala, a one-week festival for a “cleaner and greener” Samui Island. See www. samuifilmfestival.com for more.

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Taking place high in the verdant hills of Chiang Rai province is this four-day festival belonging to the Akha, a tribe hailing from the Yunnan region of Southern China. Four days and nights of dancing, singing and feasting bookend sacred rites that centre on the building of a wooden swing – followed by much toing and froing on the crude contraption. Foreigners can get a close-up (and even, if they ask nicely, have a go) by embarking on a trip with one of the local NGO’s focusing on community based tourism, like Afect (the Association for Akha Education and Culture in Thailand, www.akhaasia.org).

28 - 29 August Bhumibol Mountain Bike Championship 2010

Spandex wearing mountain bikers will convene, on 28 and 29 Aug, at a starting line on the crest of the spectacular Bhumibol Dam for two days of races. This very scenic location in Tak Province will provide a variety of race routes designed to challenge all the semi-pro, wannabe Lance Armstrongs while also keeping the more recreational riders happy. Booths will also sell discount bike equipment. For more info, call the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) on 1672. sightseeing

Sightseeing

daytrip Max Crosbie-Jones

Koh Si Chang

Hat Tham Phang

Wat Atsadangnimit

hen we first set foot on this 18km island gem we were astonished. Here’s an island, only 100km southeast of Bangkok, that’s friendly, unspoilt and hasn’t sold its soul to mass tourism. “It cannot be!” cried we. But it is. Chonburi province’s Koh Si Chang is an easy, oneand-a-half hour sprint down Highway 7 away – and it’s wonderful. However, don’t come here expecting white sandy beaches and madcap parties packed with wild-eyed Swedes. Koh Phangan this ain’t. Here is a weekend escape where Bangkok city slickers come to mellow out amidst pretty reminders of the King Rama V-era (this was his beachy retreat sightseeing

before it was deemed too vulnerable to marauding modern navies back in the late 1800s), venerable Chinese temples and the fishing community who still park their dinky trawlers here. Getting here is simple. Ferries depart Si Chang Pier in Si Ratcha town hourly, the sun-hat wearing crowds gingerly hopping starboard to grab seats. Join them and soon enough you’re speeding across the Gulf of Thailand, passing precarious looking fishing vessels and monster freight ships, reminders that this is one of Thailand’s busiest shipping lanes. Forty-five minutes later and your boat slinks up to Than Laang Pier. Fringed by fishing trawlers, and bangkok 101

notable both for its curious conical shape and interior chamber which King Rama V used to meditate in – and a series of garden paths and staircases leading down to Hat Tha Wang, a surprisingly clear stretch of ocean with a long, European style jetty – a great spot for a splash. Finish up at Hat Tham Phang, a cute sandy cove where you can chill in a shady deck-chair and munch on seafood – unsurprisingly, a specialty here – or hire a kayak, snorkeling set or rubber ring and go find Nemo for an hour or two. Should you be overcome by the urge to stay the night – and, with more to discover on the island, you wouldn’t be the first – here you can also rent yourself a cheap bungalow. Alternatively, you can kip in a boat turned bungalow at Rim Talay Resort, indulge yourself at Sichang View Resort or, if it’s the ascetic life you’re after, deny yourself at Tham Yai Phrik Vipassana, a monastery famed for its limestone meditation caves.

Hat Tha Wang

a sprawling old harbour town, here you’ll find your wheels for the day: either a moped or samlor, a beefy tuktuk that can carry up to 5 people. We recommend the latter. The ring road that traverses the island is quite bumpy. And for only B250 a local driver will safely navigate it for you for the day, drop you off at all the must-sees, pop off to do the same for others, then nip back when you’re done. Don’t miss the august, multilevel Wat Saan Chao Phor Khao Yai. Smothered across a steep hillside, this rambling Chinese temple is one of the first things you see – and hear – from the ferry. Supplicants come to festoon its fabled cave shrines with sticks of incense and set off firecrackers to rouse their attendants, be it the hill’s father spirit, Hsuan Tsang’s famous Monkey, Kuan Yin or King Chulalongkorn. The views, down onto the township below, are stunning, even more so if you climb the 500 or so steps up to the gazebo containing a replica of the Buddha’s Footprint. Five minutes from here, but on the other side of the island, is the disarmingly picturesque Chong Khao Kaad lookout. Here, the cool and briny sea breezes, sawtoothed cliffs meandering off into the bangkok 101

Chong Khao Kaad

accomodation Rim Talay Resort 170/22 Moo 7, Koh Lan, Chonburi | 082-714-4233 | www.kohlarnrimtalayresort.com

distance, and carpet of glinting blue ocean are guaranteed to seal your affection for Koh Si Chang (hint to wily entrepreneurs: open a stall here selling “I Love Koh Si Chang” T-shirts and you’ll sell a container shipload). As mentioned, King Rama V also loved Koh Si Chang. So much so, in fact, that he built a summer residence here and named it Chuthathut Palace. The original structure, the Vimanmek Mansion (p.28), was moved to Bangkok around 1900, but strolling amid the century-old frangipani trees and palace buildings that remain is still a delight. Within these grounds is also a white stupa, Wat Atsadangnimit, sightseeing

Sichang View Resort 91 M00 6, Sichang, Chonburi | 038216-210, 086-555-6578 | www.sichangview.com Tham Yai Phrik Vipassana 47 Moo 2, Sichang, Chonburi | 03821-6104 Getting There By Car: Highway No 7. At the Chonburi bypass follow the signs to Highway No 3 and travel south to Si Racha town. Turn right at sign to Samitivej Si Racha Hospital and follow until you reach a roundabout. Turn right, drive along the causeway to Koh Looy, park and board a ferry. Boats leave every hour between 7am-8pm. B100 each way. 41

Sightseeing

upcountry escape Max Crosbie-Jones

Sam Roi Yot

Tham Phraya Nakhon

ocated at the northern tip of Prachuab Khiri Khan – a province stretching down the thinnest part of Thailand’s southern isthmus – the beach resort town of Hua Hin is a great Bangkok escape. However there’s a dirty little secret no one ever mentions: while it’s by far the most popular and luxurious stretch of coastline in Prachuab it’s by no means the prettiest. Not by a long shot. Mile after mile of vast, empty beaches speck the province’s western Gulf coastline. And what few tourists realise is that you don’t have to go much further than Hua Hin to find them. Prettiest example going: Sam Roi Yot, a little district just 36km south of Hua Hin that hordes some of the most pristine, ecologically significant shoreline in the Kingdom – namely, Sam Roi Yot Marine National Park. Sam Roi Yot

sightseeing

The mangrove swamps, marshland and pristine beaches of this 90km² reserve are a haven for everything from goat-antelopes to spotted eagles, but what really defines Sam Roi Yod are its three hundred limestone peaks that ripple and soar imperiously above them. Driving south from Hua Hin, one first spots these lush, jagged peaks on reaching the road that runs alongside Sam Roi Yot Beach, a vast, windswept bay on the northern fringes of the park. Lined with resorts (see Accommodation) and a row of swaying pine trees, it’s not great for swimming – the waters are stubbornly shallow – but perfect for long walks with not a soul in sight bar the odd jittery hermit crab. At low-tide, you can stroll amid wooden fishing boats, marooned on the long, flat sands. And just offshore, rising like green leviathans from the big blue, sit some outlying islands that are bangkok 101

Koh Lam

worth exploring via local fishing boat or sea kayak. The smaller Koh Nom Sao is a breast-shaped atoll that has inspired a wacky, bra-themed resort, the Brasserie, on the mainland opposite. And the larger Koh Lam home to strange coral formations and a longtailed macaque colony. Boy, do they know how to tug the heart strings: the bigger ones paddle into the water, begging for bananas, while the little ones yelp feebly onshore. If you’re lucky you might arrive just in time to see fisherman haul in their nets tangled with pla too (mackerel). Though you could happily just explore the park’s pretty fringes in this manner, and plenty do, Sam Roi Yot needs to be seen from within to be truly appreciated. The various hiking trails that criss-cross the park lead to bangkok 101

the summit of many of the limestone monoliths, the highest of which, at 605 metres, is the Khao Daeng viewpoint. Up here, Prachuab is a topographical wonder; a mesmerising patchwork of fields, shrimp farms and epic coastline. Other trails lead to caves, like Tham Kaew, a pitch-black netherworld of translucent stalactite formations entered via a ladder, and Tham Phraya Nakhon, the most visited spot in the park. A good 20 minute huff and puff up a steep mountain trail reveals why. Inside this gaping cave, sunlight beams through a natural sinkhole onto an ornate sala (pavilion) built for King Rama back in 1896. The best time to snap it is mid-morning and the best way to reach it via Hat Laem Sala, a pristine casuarina-lined beach where you can camp, picnic or rent a bungalow. Sam Roi Yot also affords options for viewing up-close the wildlife that lives on its mountains and the wetlands between them, whether it be by taking a boat ride along one of the park’s canals, walking a wooden boardwalk through the mangrove forest, or being pushed deep out into the picturesque freshwater marshes carpeted with Lotus flowers by a local and his trusty punt. Ornithologists are especially spoilt, with around 300 species of migratory and local birds ducking, darting and diving here. sightseeing

Accommodation Bungalows and campsites are available inside Sam Roi Yot National Park, our pick of the bunch located at lovely Hat Laem Sala beach. Bungalow cost B1,600/6pax, B2,000/8pax, B2,200/9pax. Tent hire costs B150/2pax, B225/3-5pax but if you bring your own you pay only B30 for use of the campsite. Booking way in advance for the bungalows is a must, especially on weekends and public holidays. Contact the park on 032-821-568 or book online at www.dnp.go.th/ parkreserve However, if you don’t fancy (almost) roughing it inside the park, there are plenty of mid-range resorts waiting to greet you with a lemongrass drink and cool face towel just outside it. These include: Anchana Resort Moo 4 Dolphin Bay, T.Sam-roi-yod | 032-559-366-7, 089-813-4444 | www.anchana.com | B3,500 – 7,200 Brassiere Beach Resort Moo 5 T.Samroiyod | 02-511-1397, 032-630-555 | www.brassierebeach. com | B3,800 - 11,500 Green Beach Resort Moo 5 T.Samroiyod | 02-965-2701, 032-559-138 | www.thegreen beachresort.com | B1,500 – 3,600 (until end of Aug) Getting There By car: Taking Petchkasem Road (Route 4) out of Bangkok, drive through Petchaburi and Prachuab Khiri Khan province until you reach Pranburi intersection, then turn left on to Paknam-Pranburi Road. Drive along the road for about 4 km, and you will reach Ror Por Chor Road. Drive along it for about 31 km and you’ll reach Sam Roi Yot National Park. By bus: Daily buses depart from the Bangkok bus terminal at Boromrat chachonanee Road (Sai Tai Mai) to Pranburi. From there you can catch a bus to Sam Roi Yot National Park. 43

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional absorption of all things American and

H Gallery

European, many of Thailand’s freshfaced generation of artists are infatuated with the street-style, urban iconography of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, Korea and increasingly China. An indicator of the growing profile of Thai art could be in the proliferation of new commercial galleries that have opened in the last couple of years, with Bangkok gaining over a dozen new venues in different areas across the city. These include artist -run spaces such as printmaker and sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s hotbed of young conceptualists at Gallery VER. While Thailand’s ongoing political debacle has complicated ar tistic planning, the decade-plus wait for the new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opposite MBK shopping mall, is over. For news of its exhibitions, performances and the like log on to www.bacc.or.th GALLERIES The majority of contemporary art on view in Bangkok is produced by domestic practitioners, several of whom are now receiving significant international exposure, though there is ar ts

an increasing number of regional Asian artists displaying their works, at prices often cheaper than in countries like Singapore, China and Vietnam. Whether hoping to peruse some emerging local protagonist, or purchase something a bit more commercial or traditional, one thing’s for certain – prices for art in Bangkok are more realistic and reasonable than overinflated, fashionable ar t centres in America, Europe and increasingly China. You’ll soon realise that the city doesn’t have a concentrated artistic enclave; rather, there are small pockets of galleries, auction houses and antiques shops randomly dispersed throughout the city. Commercial galleries are spread across town and a little route planning is advised before embarking on a day of gallery musing. On the following page is a selection of noteworthy galleries about town. Steven Pettifor is the editor of the Bangkok Art Map (BAM!), and author of Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is available as a consultant to art buyers; stevenpettifor@hotmail.com bangkok 101

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM! is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab a copy and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

art exhibitions

Utilitarianism Ardel Gallery of Modern Art 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5). +66(0)2-422-2092. Open Tue-Sat, 10:30am- 7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm. Having devoted much of the last few years to the establishment and expansion of Ardel Gallery, artist Thavorn Ko-Udomvit presents his first solo exhibition in four years. Attempting to unify the deep divisions in Thai society as exposed by the recent political unrest, Thavorn uses colour-coded imagery in his reconciliatory photographic and video installation. Until August 15 Body Language (II) Thavibu Suite 308, Silom Galleria F3, 919/1 Silom Rd, Soi 19. +66(0)2 266 5454. Open Tue-Sat 11am-7pm, Sun noon-6pm. BTS Surasak The second stage of a two-part exhibition highlighting young female artists who produce metal sculptures using the human body as a metaphor for individual themes. After Pieng-or Pinpart opened with her battered female sculptures depicting the mania of personal illness, Angkana Kongpetch’s delicate wiry skeletal forms examine Buddhist notions of time and mortality. Until August 21 Agalico Budur Artery Silom Galleria Unit B09, 919/1 Silom Rd. +66(0)2- 630-3006. Open Mon-Sat 10:30am-7pm. BTS Surasak Mainstay Buddhist themes of desire, ego, suffering, truth and mindfulness are given an imaginative interpretation by artists Wachirapan Intaraworapad and Ekachai Milintapas. The two stylised figurative painters add curious, almost Gothic symbolism that includes skulls, crows, and a certain vampiric resonance to their sensational compositions. Until August 13 Whitespace Retro Whitespace Lido Bldg 2F, 260 Siam Square 3. +66(0)2-252-2900. Open Tue-Fri 1pm-7pm, SatSun 11:30am-8pm or by appointment. BTS Siam Since opening back in 2007, Whitespace has hosted some engaging exhibitions by a variety of emergent, and occasionally established, artists. Under the curatorial guidance of artist Maitree Siriboom, the compact space has defined itself as one of the capital’s few non-commercial viewing platforms. In recognition, 15 previous exhibitors hang variants of previously displayed art. Until Aug 8

bangkok 101

ar ts

Shophouses – 4 x 8m Photography by Peter Nitsch

The city as a living space is among the great themes of contemporary photography. When uttered, the word creates in our mind images of lofty urban excesses in globalised mega-cities. What we often neglect though is a second dimension of urbanism: the coexistence of various types of people, each with their own identity, in confined living spaces. In 'Shophouses – 4 x 8m' – a collection of still-lifes – Munich-born photographer Peter Nitsch focuses precisely on this dimension, granting us an intimate view of shophouses typical of Bangkok. For him, these abodes measuring 4 x 8 metres and crammed full to the last centimetre are workplaces and living spaces in one, family homes open to the world, at once a public market and a private sanctuary of peace. ‘Shophouses – 4 x 8m’ will be showing at Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Soi Pan, Silom Road | 02-234-6700 | www.kathmandu-bkk.com) from 7 August until 26 September.

Shophouses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4 x 8m

Photo Feature

Shophouses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4 x 8m

Photo Feature

Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com, www.bangkokconcerts.com

Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai|BTS Victory Monument | 02677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular new 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, bear witness to hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www. patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are world-class.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

A live puppet show might sound like it’s aimed at kids, but this one is intriguing for all. The one-hour show follows the story of the Ramakien. The large puppets are incredibly lifelike; the scenes are colourful and fun to watch – so even adults enjoy the show. Arrive early to observe the production of traditional masks.

โรงละครนาฏยศาลา หุน่ ละครเล็ก (โจหลุยส์) สวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.31), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.28), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.83).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง ar ts

bangkok 101

TCDC (Thailand

Creative & Design Centre)

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres.These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on.

cultural centres

Alliance Française (map C4)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly WHERE 6F,The Emporium good at opening your Shopping Complex, mind and eyes to Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS curious international Phrom Phong, 02-664-8448, design concepts; be it www.tcdc.co.th OPEN Vivienne Westwood’s 10:30am-9pm closed Mon fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

Japan Foundation (map D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ The Belgian Club of Thailand (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com

BACC (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th The eleven-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls and looks out towards the city’s elevated skytrain.The Guggenheim meets a mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre plans to nurture a scope of creative fields including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting 3,000sqm for hosting art. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

bangkok 101

ar ts

Arts

APEX Lido and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02-251-2861, โรงภาพยนต์ลโิ ด และสกาลา

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, stateof-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.55), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180. The best place to check screening times is on the daily-updated www.movieseer.com.

Please

Thai Cinema

stand while the king's anthem is played in respect to Thailand’s beloved monarch.

Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

cinema dine

If you don’t fancy watching a movie at the local cineplex or on your living room couch, there’s another option that falls snugly between the two. Monday is Cinema Dine night at Bed Supperclub (p.84), where staff serve a three course meal ! dreamt up by creative chef Cameron Stuart while you watch a classic or cult flick (B1,450 net, drinks not included). All this while reclining on fluffy white divan beds to eat: the perfect position for watching a movie. August starts with a special evening on Aug 2: Bed’s executive chef Cameron Stuart will pair a 5-course set dinner with 5 glasses of CWC wines, and the 1996 comedy Big Night (8pm, B1,750 per person). The other films all fit this month’s faintly macabre “Recently deceased film stars we still love” theme, beginning on Aug 9 with Farrah Fawcett’s career debut, the ‘70s sci-fi Longan’s Run. Then on Aug 16 Dennis Hopper appears in one of his most memorable roles, as an ex-cop and former bomb squad technician in the hi-octane Oscar winner Speed. Next up on Aug 23, Patrick Swayze stars in Coppola’s 80s drama about teen gangs in small-town America, The Outsiders. Don’t remember seeing Britney Murphy as a geek? Beverley Hills teen life parody, Clueless will screen on Aug 30. Films start at 9:30pm. 02-651-3537, www.bedsupperclub.com. 56

ar ts

สยามสแควร์ ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Metropolis (Gold Class) Big-C Ratchadamri (opp. Central World Plaza), Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chitlom | 02-812-9999 บิก ๊ ซี ราชดำริ ตรงข้ามเซ็นทรัล

เวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-9333 เอ็มโพเรียม สุขม ุ วิท 24 SF WORLD CINEMA 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-268-8888 เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ

SF World,CentralWorld

bangkok 101

reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used. THAILAND AND WORLD WAR II Direk Jayanama | Silkworm Books | 566pp | B995 Though its role was peripheral, and it never wanted to get involved, having declared a position of neutrality early on, Thailand didn’t emerge unscathed from WWII. Not only did it have to cede some of its sovereignty to the Japanese, after its warships landed at Prachuab Khiri Khan province’s Ao Manao beach on 8 December 1941, its image was also tainted by its declaration of war against the Allied powers. Why Thailand did so and the answers to many more wartime geopolitical questions (including why it tried to join the Axis powers) are buried deep within these detailed memoirs by then Thai Foreign Minister, Direk Jayanama. Written in 1966, the late master diplomat’s diary-based account also spans his involvement in the Free Thai Movement and the postwar years, most intriguingly Thailand’s entry to the United Nations. A tough read? In parts. An important one? Undoubtedly.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English s u b t i t l e s a n d DV D r e g i o n compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

HOW TO MAKE A LIVING IN PARADISE Philip Wylie & Andrew Bond | Fast Track Publishing | 264pp | B495 This ‘how to make it in a country more exotic than your own’ guide spans Southeast Asia, but its author Philip Wylie is based in the Kingdom and many of its case-studies Thai focussed.The paperback manual gets off to a shaky start – Wylie sounds like a callous Western imperialist when he defines paradise as a place where “the economy is weak compared to your home country, which means that your home currency will buy much more” – but becomes more endearing as it begins cutting through the red tape. Entrepreneurs will appreciate the chapter on buying a franchise or independent business, dilettantes with a dream of staying on love the chapter on the twelve most popular ways for expats to earn a crust. Admittedly a lot of the tips and minutiae contained within could quite easily be marshalled from the internet, but there’s something to be said for its brevity, clarity and invaluable contact directory for each country.

BANGKOK GUIDE ANZWG | 436pp | B950 Every rookie expat should be handed a copy of this on touching down. If Bangkok 101 is the visitor bible, then Bangkok Guide is the long-stayers equivalent, an encyclopedia referencing all they need to steer life in this often baffling city, from the skinny on visas and finding a home, nanny and good school, to comprehensive restaurant listings and a shopping section listing everything from the high-end stuff to those elusive picture frame stores. From its beginnings as a small zine of helpful tips for Antipodeans here, it’s snowballed into this the 18th edition: a glossy, 436 page behemoth, replete with a handy little city map and telephone directory. Slickly produced, it’s a stupendous achievement that’s all the more impressive given its humble provenance – it’s diligently researched and written by volunteers from the city’s Australian-New Zealand Women’s Group – and the fact that every last baht from its sale is donated to Thai women and children’s charities. Bangkok Guide, we salute you.

Khru Somsri M. L. Chatrichalerm Yukol | 1986 | $13.95 (US) from www.hkflix.com Before he started making royalist epics (The Legend of Suriyothai, Naresuan), M.L. Chatrichalerm was known for his social dramas, focusing on the plight of the poor. Firebrand teacher Somsri is leading a slum community’s fight against a development company that wants to raze their homes to build a shopping mall. Arson, murder, and mayhem break out, but just only succeed in fanning the flames of Somsri’s rage. The fierce teacher is aided by a bureaucrat who grew up in a slum – and who is haunted by memories of a lost love who died in the October 6, 1976, military massacre of Thammasat students. Khru Somsri employs powerful flashbacks of October 6 violence to raise questions about the most effective forms of resistance – revolution, reform, or both? The film might be overwrought and didactic, but succeeds as a portrait of deep-seated corruption, despair, and Sisyphean resistance against both. ar ts

Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok

Fireplace Grill, InterContinental

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby. The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community.

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer.You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms! Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.75). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anythingonce daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

$ under B400 $$ B400 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000 a service charge (typically

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 58

food & drinks

bangkok 101

New All-you-caneat Dim Sum, Sofitel Bangkok Silom The new chef at the Sofitel Silom’s opulent Chinese is making his presence felt the only way he knows how – with a new dim sum menu! He’s introducing new flavours and textures to complement old favourites such as stir-fried rice noodle roll with Shanghai chili paste. B588++ (Tue-Fri), B788++ (weekends includes signature Peking duck). 02-238-1991, ext 1362.

Gourmet Power Lunch, Rang Mahal

Italian Michelinstar Chef, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Celebrity chef Alfredo Russo returns to share his distinctive approach to Italian cuisine at Rossini’s until August 8. Despite the Michelin-starred, Turin native’s often outlandish style, his food is respectful of the Piedmontese regional traditions and brims with authentic flavours. Book in advance, book in advance, book in advance. 02-649-8364.

River Dining Cruises

Indian food isn’t ideal for business lunches. Shirt cuffs can get stained, wine spilt, trains of thought lost while fussing over all the shared dishes. Cue the Rembrandt Hotel’s new Gourmet Power Lunch: three set menus of creative gourmet Indian served in individual portions on fine china. It’s worth trying just for the rasmalai, a milky, paneerbased dessert. B495 net; B495 extra for wine pairing. 02-261-7100, ext. 7532

meal deals

Sophisticated Seafood Siam-Style, The Sukhothai Bangkok At Celadon Aug 16-Sep 16, super-fresh squiggly sea creatures will star in a new line-up of Thai dishes, all cooked by executive chef Vira Sanuangwong. Think sautéed Maine lobster red curries; stir-fried Manila clams with sweet chili paste and holy basil; and river prawns fried with straw mushrooms, slices of ginger and green peppers. 02-344-8888

Grand Pearl

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (ShangriLa) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental). Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last two to three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. Manohra

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

thai cuisine

Did you know?

Khao Chae

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desser ts or savoury mousses social affair in Thailand. are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared. 60

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom kha gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam nua.......spicy beef salad Gai yang..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng phet pet yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng khiao wan gai.....green curry chicken Phad kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sacred basil Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao.......................coconut juice Nam krajeab .............rosella flower juice Nam matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam tao hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha yen............................Thai iced tea with condensed milk bangkok 101

thai sweets Kanom Thai

‘Polamai’: Thai Fruits

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

Longan Not to be mistaken for the similarly named Longong fruit, the Longan, known as Lam-Yai in Thai and often referred to as the “Dragon Eye”, is one of the most popular fruits in the country. Small and round, they have a thin, crisp brown skin and a translucent sweet flesh that many liken to lychees in taste, and grapes in texture. Widely found in Northern Thailand, they can be enjoyed fresh, dried, served over ice as a dessert, or even as a refreshing juice. In some parts of Southeast Asia, its seed is pressed against snake bites with the belief that they absorb venom, while the dried fruit has been used to cure insomnia. But try not to get too carried away eating them, excessive consumption of this fruit is said to be surefi re path to sore throats and mouth ulcers!

The word Kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a Kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This!

Khao Niew Kaew Khao niew kaew is made out of glutinous rice, sugar and of course coconut cream and often comes with a pandanus scent. It gets its name, which means glass sticky rice, from its clear complexion. Today it is often served to monks during religious festivals particularly at the beginning and end of Buddhist lent. Try also: Kanom Krok – Mini coconut cream hotcakes Kanom Bueng – Crispy crepes with coconut whip filling Thong yip/Thong yod/Foi Thong – Golden Egg Pinches (Yip)/Drops (Yod)/ Shreds (Foi)

Try also: Coconut (Ma-Praow), Guava (Farang), Banana (Kluay), Papaya (Malakor), Mangosteen (Mong-Koot), Durian (Tu-Rian), Mango (Ma Muang), Rambutan (Ngoh), Lychee (Lyn-Chee) bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

treet food is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. So much so that if you took away the city’s rot khen (mobile vendor carts) it would begin to taste rather bland. Some open for lunch only; others open all night. Though common to every street, knowing which carts sell what, when and where is a skill many Bangkokians pride themselves on. Short on time? Then make for one of the following hotspots, where clusters of vendors sell good feeds for pocket-change.

ealikte

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

KHAO MUN KAI

What drives me crazy about a good khao mun kai (chicken and rice) dish is not so much the chicken but the sauce and rice. And it can differ from place to place. I was amazed to find on a recent trip to Korat a very delicious, yet somewhat different, version of the dish. In Bangkok, there’s a crowded corner off Soi Lang Suan 7 where the khao mun kai is well worth the weaving motorcycle ride. A very low-key couple wake up at 3 a.m. to cook khao (rice) in giant pots.The jasmine rice is carefully blended with garlic and chicken fat; hot charcoal is put on top of and under the pot to make sure it’s cooked evenly. What they have truly mastered is the sauce – their own blend of sweet, dark soy sauce, regular soy sauce, chopped garlic, fermented bean, vinegar and a kick from chopped chili and ginger create a harmonious taste. The dish can be served with either boiled white chicken (Kai Tom) or fried chicken (Kai Tod). Customers can then self-serve two kinds of sauces from the cart. All-you-can-eat chicken broth is thrown in as well. It’s no wonder they sell out each day! GettingThere: walk down Soi Lang Suan 7, pass the 7-Eleven and immediately turn right into a small alley. Weave your way slowly through the junction and you’ll hear the chopping sound on your right. Mon-Sat, 7am–2 or 3pm 62

food & drinks

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to revellers. Sample the delicate, hand-made egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am. Corner of Silom/Convent Road The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues. Pratunam Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark.There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door. Soi Rambutri (near Khao San Road) Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the stall in front of Swenson’s. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls. bangkok 101

Thai HEMLOCK (map A2) 56 Phra Athit Road, Phra Nakorn | 02-282-7507 | 4pm-12am, Sat 5pmmidnight, Sun closed | $ An interesting little Thai restaurant on bohemian Phra Athit Road, not least because it bears little resemblance to one. Starring stippled cream walls and starched white tablecloths, not to mention soft jazz, Chilean wines and art on the walls upstairs, Hemlock’s cosy, Mediterranean-like shophouse attracts mainly roaming tourists and the odd loafer-wearing Thai artiste. While it’s location just around the corner from backpacker ghetto Khao San Road initially set off “baby-food bland” alarm bells, the menu has some rare head-turners, almost all coming in sub-B100. Prime example: the meang kam – a hands-on hors d’oeuvre. Grab a piper leaf, sprinkle with condiments and hold tight for an oral herb-spicefruit explosion, set off by chilli and lime rind. Another, the khao hor bai bau: a star annice and cinnamon scented rice mound studded with prawns, fall-apart pork, mushrooms, Chinese sausage and lotus seeds and wrapped in a steaming lotus leaf. It’s wonderful, if a little cloying, so make sure you pair it with something gutsy – a tart soup or spicy salad perhaps. Not at all poisonous, Hemlock is cheap, chilled and worthy of repeat visits.

เฮมล็อค ถ.พระอาทิตย์

Hemlock

restaurants

WANAKARM (map D3) 98 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 02-258-4241 | 6pm-midnight | $ A little piece of Thai culinary history, Wanakarm is set in a sprawling house that may trigger flashbacks to earlier, homier times. Seated behind a gracious garden area, the house is full of unpretentious, clunky wooden tables, a lumpy sofa or two in the private rooms – and food that tastes like it’s made by Mom. Whoever is at the deep-fryer deserves a standing ovation – everything crunchy and calorieladen, from filler-free shrimp cakes to explosively crackly Vietnamese spring rolls, is beautifully done. Curries are thick with fragrant, long-stewed herbs, and flaky-tender roti make the perfect accompaniment. The fried chicken is juicy from it marinade, and the skin will have diners scrapping over the crunchy bits. Those looking for a super Baan Klang Nam

elegant setting should head elsewhere, but if you’re up for excellent Thai food in enormous portions look no further than Wanakarm.

เรือนอาหารวนคาม ซ.ประสานมิตร สุขุมวิท 23

Baan Klang Nam (off map) 288 Rama III, Soi 14 Bang Kho Laem | 02-292-0175 | www.baanklangnam. net | 11am – 10:30pm | $ If you like your Thai fare with a fresh fishy slant, you won’t regret stopping by this large diner overlooking a stretch of the Chao Phaya River jostling with cranes and freight ships. Popular with fresh-off-the-boats and locals alike, the seafood-centric menu rarely skimps on the spice quotient and comes served in a big, nook-filled clapboard Thai house painted in fetching pale yellow and white. Wait staff are swift and genial, despite their never getting a quiet moment, and the ambiance bustling yet somehow atmospheric. And, by golly, it’s cheap considering what comes out the kitchen. Standouts include the steamed seafood custard in banana leaf cups; stir-fried crab with black pepper; and baked whole mussels with herbs and feisty nam jim dipping sauce. But the real joy here is the pictorial menu that inspires strayings out of your “I’ll have a chicken green curry please” comfort zone – that and those nostalgic, riverside surrounds. A tip for al fresco lovers: if they try and seat you inside, say “nang khannork dai mai?” and smile sweetly.

บ้านกลางน้ำ พระราม 3 ซ.14

bangkok 101

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Food&Drinks

InternationaL To Die For (map E4) H1 Place, Soi Thong Lo | BTS Thong Lo | 02-381-4714 | 11am – midnight | www.todieforbangkok.com | $$ Though H1, a sort of avant-garde lifestyle complex at the end of Soi Thong Lo, may be a spent force these days, it’s faithful tenant To Die For is not. Several Bangkok light years after it opened to ostentatious coos of delight by the local fashionista crowd, this slick bar-slash-restaurant is still one of the most enjoyable on the swanky strip. A glam, L-shaped, New York loft style interior with a range of relaxed seating oogles the real prize through plate-glass – a luscious courtyard with tiered wooden decking and daybeds. On cool evenings, the young hi-so crowd and primped Asian tourists lean back coquettishly on them to slurp sophisticated cocktails and gnosh on Bangkok’s version of hip food – modern European with Thai twists. You don’t have to join them – some just do drinks here – but we recommend it. Out of the kitchen come uncomplicated dishes like delicate lobster bisque with croutons; a creamy-smoky carbonara studded with Hunan ham; and – the one dish that truly was to die for on our visit – baked fresh clams topped with bacon

To Die For

and garlic and grilled until golden brown. Dinner times are buzziest and thus best, but if you are in the area for lunch, a new set menu offers you the chance to enjoy To Die For’s enticing bites, looks and vibes for less (2 courses B390++, 3 courses B490++).

ตึก H1 ซ.ทองหล่อ

KUPPA (map D3) 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 02-663-0450 | Tue-Sun 10am-10pm | $$ The fame of this tea and coffee housecum-restaurant was built on a simple concept: innovative comfort food. And for years this magnetic formula

food & drinks

has been drawing in a steady stream of dinners to this spacious and stylish den of feasting. A safe bet for breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner, Kuppa devotees come for a salads and sandwiches, quiche, imaginative pizzas and pasta. The short menu of Thai specialties is also worth sampling. Save some space, and choose from one of Bangkok’s most decadent selection of cakes, pies and other sweet things. Casual by day, Kuppa transforms into an elegant dining choice in the evening. Dishes and wines are on par with some the top international kitchens in town.

คัปป้า สุขุมวิท ซ.16

bangkok 101

French La Grande Perle (map B4) River City Shopping Complex, 1st Riverside Terrace, Soi Charoenkrung 30 | 02-237-0077 ext. 125-6 | 11:30am2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm | $$$ Riverside dining in Bangkok leans towards the raucous – think red-faced diners carousing over overpriced seafood. With its upscale space, La Grande Perle is a welcome change, serving fine French fare and offering reasonable prix-fixe menus and river views without the rowdiness.The food is correct without being stodgy – the imported duck confit is particularly rapturous. Enrobed in exquisitely crispy fat, the tender flesh falls right off the bone – an unbelievable find in Bangkok, where confit is often as dry as Tutankhamen. Salads and appetizers whet rather than overwhelm the appetite, desserts range from lusty chocolate to lighter fruity fare, and the wine list is very French, with a few New World bottles in the mix. Décor veers a bit more rococo than fully restful, but all in all, Perle makes a very good addition to the riverside scene.

ลา กรองด์ แปร์ ริเวอร์ซิตี้ ถ.เจริญนคร

bangkok 101

Grossi

ITALIAN Grossi Trattoria & Wine Bar (map C3) InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Rd | BTS Chidlom | 02-6560444 | www.intercontinental.com | 9am-midnight | $$$ There’s a new chef at Grossi, the Bangkok-based trattoria franchise of Australian celebrity chef Guy Grossi, a really well placed restaurant, just a few metres from Chidlom Skytrain station. And although it’s located in a hotel, you can enter directly from the street, so it has a stand-alone feel. The well-crafted interior has a chic but casual air. There’s a food retailer ambiance, with a floor of stylish black and white butcher checks

food & drinks

dominated by a marble top bar covered in cold cuts, breads and wines. The staff wear aprons. The look blends with the overspill noise that shimmies around the floor to ceiling windows from the hotel lobby to give a busy atmosphere (although the band at 10pm is overkill, so don’t eat late). The menu has some new items, too. Among the ones we tried: a meaty crab salad sprinkled with salty strong bottarga with parsley and almond pesto on the side; a hefty, crispy-skin roasted barramundi with barley; and a large tiramisu – creamy, but still with a cakey bite. All well crafted, polished, but not pretentious, and in portions to satisfy an Aussie.

รร.อินเตอร์คอนติเนนตัล ถ.เพลินจิต

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ZANOTTI (map C4) 21/1 Soi Sala Daeng | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-636-0002 | 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30 | www.zanotti-ristorante. com | $$$ Some 300 venues in Bangkok hope you might decide on visiting them whenever you crave Italian fare. But it’s this small place near Silom Road that is packed night after night, thanks to its pulsating but intimate air and authentic Tuscan treats. It’s low-ceiling and jam-packed with tables – you’ll panic about knocking your neighbour’s wine glass off the table. This creates the perfect set for a vivacity typical of a Verdi opera. Don’t let yourself be rushed, though. Take it all in until your food arrives. Rediscover ravioli with fresh truffles, Osso Buco or the lamb tenderloin, all traditional classics. Check out the vast wine list, or battery yet stroll across the soi to peruse the impressive cellar at Vino di Zanotti, one of Bangkok’s finest wine bars. A perfect place to pair a prime Barollo with a spread of superb tapas, or with a Cuban from the humidor. Their parma ham and marscapone ‘Pizza Zanotti’ is to die for. Jazz riffs here are dished out nightly from a cool quartet.

ซานอตติ 21/1 ซ.ศาลาแดง

Tokyo Table

Japanese TOKYO TABLE (map E4) 8/1 Ekamai Soi 6, Sukhumvit Soi 63 |02-391-4103 | BTS Ekkamai | 11am – 2 pm, 5:30pm – 10pm | $$ While we’re fond of Tokyo Table’s Thai-meets-Japanese house setting, we aren’t so crazy about its Thai-meetsJapanese dining concept. How many of us really want a pak boong side with our saba? Still, it’s nice to have the option, and Tokyo Table’s sprawling bicultural menu does offer up some Thai/Japanese gems – imported sashimi; fat, juicy tod man goong (deepfried shrimp cakes); a long sake and shochu list. Unfortunately, there are also some ho-hum Thai dishes to watch out for, like the rather wimpy

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Tokyo tom yum soup – a concession to their majority clientele’s delicate Japanese tongues? To avoid a hit-andmiss meal, we say stick to the Japanese fare and maybe dip your toe into the Thai-Japanese fusions. Or do what the local office workers do and go for a lunchtime set menu, like the Salmon Ikura Zen, a big bowl of perky salmon on rice, alongside soup, dessert and tea or coffee. Yummy and filling. Pick from a variety of seating spaces: a little Thai house flanking the lawn, several private upstairs rooms (call ahead for these) or the 1950s Ozu-movie like atmospherics of the slatted wood dining room downstairs.

โตเกียวเทเบิ้ล เอกมัย ซ.6 (ประมาณ 100 ม.จากปากซอย)

bangkok 101

Laos/Isaan Zaab Eli (map E4) Thong Lo Soi 10 | BTS Thong Lo | 02392-2317 | 11am – midnight | $$ Ever since the restaurant formerly known as Ezili changed its name, and turned its focus from fusiony pastas to national dish som tum (tangy papaya salad), Zaab Eli has been buzzing. In fact, it’s probably the coolest Isaan (northeastern cuisine) eatery in town among celebrities, insiders and young hipsters right now, all due to its location on Thong Lo Soi 10 right beside invogue nightclubs Funky Villa and Demo. Despite some comforting Isaan classics like som tum, laab moo (spicy minced pork salad) and crispy fried chicken with sticky rice, the menu is about as quirky as the interior featuring flowery sarongs for tablecloths (i.e. very). Inventive Isaan dishes worth trying include the num tok salom (spicy sliced salmon salad with mint leaves), tum melon yeep poon (Japanese melon spicy salad), and

bangkok 101

Zaab Eli

tum berry (strawberries, ripe mango and almond salad). Recommended for the health conscious is the spicy monchy pork mixed with mushroom soup – it comes with a shot glass of collagen. And at no extra cost! Each

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dish is reasonably priced (B70-150) and surprisingly, given just how zany they are, pretty damn zaab too (that’s delicious in Isaan).

แซบอิลี่ื ทองหล่อ ซ.10

Food&Drinks

Neighbourhood Nosh: soi ari Soi A

Each month we stake out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the nitty gritty in an easily digestible, bite-size format.

5 6 So 7 iA ri 9

Moddy

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So iA

lthough Soi Ari is changing fast, the indie spirit of this residential suburb remains close to our hearts, and its grub never far away from our stomachs.You’ll find the cheap local stuff at the street stalls and shophouses that congregate at the bustling mouth of Phahonyothin Soi 7, better known as Soi Ari. And the funkier, gourmet fare at the townhouse conversions which sit hidden down Ari's quiet backstreet sois, amid the scores of flash, oldmoney townhouses. Typically, these neigbourhood eateries feature a quirky design, done on the cheap by one of the owner’s interior designer friends, not to mention a garden to soak Ari’s chill suburban vibes up in, and a cooler clientele than the Bangkok norm. Textbook example: Pla Dib (1), a minimally attired clubhouse with picnic benches in the garden, a live sushi station and reasonably priced Thai, Japanese and international fare. A bugger to find, but Soi Ari’s motorbike taxi drivers all know it. Nearby, Puritan (2) is newer and currently riding the word-of-mouth wave, all thanks to its rotating line-up of delectable homemade cakes and international food and the snug, antiquestrewn house in which they’re served. Has a leafy little courtyard, too – a good thing considering the four tables inside are often booked out. 68

Road .

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12 13 Somtum Bangkok

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So iA ri S iS am a mp ph iS han an6 am So iA ph 5 an4 ri S am ph So an3 iA ri S am ph an2 So iA ri S am ph an1 So

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So iA

One soi down, in a big, white 1960sstyle townhouse, retroinflected Reflections (3) is a Soi Ari landmark. Candy-coloured, solid Thai food, a whimsical garden – super kitsch, but it works. Just up the soi from here is Somtum Bangkok (4), another converted, if less eye-catching, townhouse serving a dozen spins on the northeastern papaya salad, plus the usual Isaan cohorts. Over on Ari Soi 4, Moddy (5) is a quiet gallery-cum-restaurant serving simple Thai and Italian food to chinstroking art and media types, many the owner’s compadres. There’s a porch oozing backyard-in-suburbia vibes out front, art hanging on the white walls upstairs, and decent indie music. Back on Soi Ari proper, Sofa So Good (6) is a popular, primarycoloured neighbourhood bar. Curl up on one of their couches with cocktail and nosh on a hi-so melange of Thai nibbles, Western dishes and fusionesque pastas. A singer croons Thai standards on the weekends. Heading toward the BTS, the big houses peter out and restaurants pop up in shophouses and office buildings instead. Dalad (7) is a cosy Vietnamese hole-in-the-wall with a neat neo-vintage interior. See our review, on p.72, for more. Nearby, D’s (8) is housed in the Yosawadee building and yet be roadtested – but the dolled-up cream and off-white interiors, and Thai/inter fusion menu has us cooing in anticipation. food & drinks

A pizza person? Also at the Yosawadee Building is Basillico (9), a checked tablecloths pizzeria that – just like the other branches on Sukhumvit – has more loyal customers than you can shake a giant pepper mill at. Buried amid the shophouses and streetfood stalls at the top of Ari Soi 1, lime-green Vegeta House (10) serves seven veggie specials each day. Try the guay deo lod, a flavourful noodle soup thick with mushrooms. Much further down, Baan Mae Yui (11) is a trusty Thai restaurant in a garden townhouse. Our resident streetfood critic, Nym, raves about their moo satay (sticks of marinated pork with satay sauce). Last up, and worth a cursory mention is La Villa, plonked in front of BTS Ari skytrain station. Delve beyond its slick, curving community mall facade, and you’ll find some tasty eateries within, including a branch of funky Thai design restaurant, Greyhound Café (12), and Secret Recipe (13), the award-winning cake shop from Malaysia. Puritan

bangkok 101

Baan Somtum

MOO KATA: Thai-style

buffets make mealtime merry Oliver Benjamin

Isaan Eats

Isaan food, Northeast Thailand’s unadulterated cuisine, is everywhere. Bangkok’s streets teem with rot khen (vendor carts) and no-frills restaurants serving comfort foods to the city’s huge Isaan migrant population: dishes like laab (ground-meat salad), gai yang (grilled chicken) and som tum (green papaya salad). Not that they’re the only fans. Though many draw the line at nibbling insects, every strata of Bangkok society – from homesick taxidrivers through to their Prada-clad passengers – has its fans. Indeed, many rank this sweat-raising blend of Lao and Thai cooking (which uses sticky rice, fresh vegetables, chillis, herbs and whatever creature’s within grasp) as just about the best Thai culinary creation going. Almost every sidewalk has a lip-smacking Isaan kitchen (here gastrogems spring from the grittiest of setups), but a meal at one of the following will have you vowing that your days of tart-sweet Thai food are over. n Baan Somtum 9/1 Soi Srivieng, nr Sathorn Road | BTS Surasak | 02-6303485 | 11am-10pm | $ This squat but smart townhouse serves a staggering 22 types of somtum, as well as haunting Isaan soups, at pocket-friendly prices. n Café de Laos 19 Silom Soi 19 | 02-635-2338 | 11am-2pm & 5-10pm | $$ Who said you have to forgo ambience entirely? At Café de Laos you get a posh setting and rustic Issan nosh.You’ll pay more than you would streetside, though. n Isaan Rot Det 3/5-6 Soi Rangnam | 02-246-4579 | BTS Victory Monument | $ The best northeastern fare on Rangnam (a soi renowned for it) is served at this no-frills shophouse. Explosive som tum, crisp vegetables and lots of spice-flushed local faces. n Café Chilli Ground Floor, Siam Paragon | 02-610-9877 | www.cafechilli. com | $ Zingy Isaan delights with hi-so ambitions (think grilled lamb rack with nam jim jaew dip) meet air-conditioned mall. Perfect for when a sweaty you won’t do. n Soi Polo Fried Chicken 137/1-2 Soi Polo,Th Withayu | 02-655-8489 | $ Golden-brown, succulent and blanketed in crisp-fried garlic, their gai thowd (deep fried chicken) is legendary. Also recommended: their catfish laab and tom saep soup. bangkok 101

It’s no secret that Thai people love to dine in big groups. Whereas Westerners tend to order individual plates and might offer little tastes to our friends,Thais are suppertime socialists, with dishes being passed around willy nilly, or big pots fished into by all concerned. One of the most interesting modes of communal chowing-down in Thailand is moo kata. Though it’s probably a remote descendant of Mongolian barbecue, and similar in some ways to Korean barbecue, it has evolved over the eons into something quintessentially Thai. No visitor should leave the country before engaging in one of these fun, frenzied communal cookouts, which are especially abundant in and around Bangkok. Moo kata literally means “skillet pork,” though it’s a bit of a misnomer as pork is only one of the many foodstuffs that end up in the mix. The skillet itself is a sort of dome-shaped metal pan with a trough running around its outer edge – like a derby hat for a robot. The entire thing sits upon hot coals in the centre of the table and is laden with all variety of meats and seafood. The trough is filled with hot water and rapidly becomes broth as the meat juices run down the side of the dome. Leafy green vegetables are dunked in the clear soup as well. No moo kata would be complete without a hunk of pig fat placed on top like a cholesterol cherry: it helps flavour the skillet and turns from white to black in the course of the evening. Moo kata may be the best meal (usually dinnertime only) deal on the planet at anywhere from B70 to B140 for a delicious all-you-can cook smorgasbord. n Plathong Moo Kata Close to Century Movie Plaza, Phayathai Rd. | BTS Victory Monument, Exit 2 | 084-354-8282 | 5pm-midnight | B99++ n 36 Moo Kata Thong 1582/1 Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 50 | On Nut BTS | 02-7427288 | 4pm-midnight | B99++ 69

Food&Drinks

Mother’s Day Meals

When the Queen’s birthday falls here, on August 12, so too does Mother’s Day. It’s a public holiday, so with schools out for the day mothers really get lavished with the attention they deserve. Or so the theory goes anyway. Get in on the act by treating yours to one of the following slap-up feeds. Many hotels are letting mom eat for zilch. For example, when accompanied with family members, mums eat for zero at the international lunch buffet at the Grand Millennium Sukhumvit’s Atelier (B1,990), or at Tapas Y Vino’s 6-course Spanish dinner (B1,800++). 02-204-4000 ext. 4158.

The Sukhothai Bangkok (02-344-8888) says the first 50 moms at the Colonnade’s lunch buffet (B1,450++) will receive a free Panpuri Jasmine Cream Soap gift, as well as complimentary Parisian Mariage Frères Tea for their table. Meanwhile, the Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square’s Chinese restaurant Lok Wah Hin (02-209-8888 ext. 2702-7) is offering a 30% discount and complimentary chef’s special healthy soup for mom when in a group of at least three people.

Mother also dine for free when accompanied by at least 3 people at Bangkok Marriot Spa & Resort’s three renowned restaurants: Brio (5-course Italian set menu B1,199), Riverside Terrace (international buffet B1,250) and, the only Mother’s day deal on the river, the Manohra Dining Cruise (10-course traditional Thai menu B1,990). 02-476-0022 ext. 1416.

On the 60th floor of the Banyan Tree (02-679-1200), enjoy Romsai Restaurant’s international buffet (B1,500++), including glass of sparkling wine, free flow juices, and, yes, free lunch for mom. Or, on the same floor, chow on unlimited dim sum, noodle or rice, dessert at Chinese restaurant Bai Yun. A family of 4 only pays for 3 (B1,000++ each).

There’s also a complimentary dinner waiting for her at VIE Hotel’s Wine & Grill on the 11th floor (02-309-3939, book in advance). And from 11am-3pm she’s on a free brunch buffet meal ticket at the Pullman Bangkok King Power’s Cuisine Unplugged (02-6809999). There’s a 50% discount (off the normal price of B900) for the rest of you too.

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bangkok 101

Indian Masala Art (map E4) 88 Thonglor 8, 2F, Unit-L 205, Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 02-713-8357 | www.masala-artbkk.com | 11am – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm | $$ With its contemporary looks, varnished mahogany tables, decent plonk and a painterly menu that refers to starters as “soft hues” (and gets away with it), Masala Art is one of the city’s ritziest curryhouses. Still, despite its modern gleam, and aspirational location on trendy Thonglor, Masala Art is no triumph of style over substance: there’s lots of enjoyable traditional North Indian, or Mogul, fare under the pretty surface. The lal mich paneer tikka (cottage cheese with red chillies) is a subtle, excellent dish, as is the aloo ghobi, a cauliflower and potato side done just right. Though hardly scientific, mains like the chicken dhansak also seem to benefit from the on-site spice grounding policy. Kudos also for offering health conscious curry-heads the option of having these – and the 90 or so other tandoori, bread and curry dishes on the menu – cooked in extra virgin olive oil. To lower your body temperature before you head back out, molest a bowl of their traditional Indian ice cream, or kulfi, served tinged with Baileys – it’s fantastic. Adventurous without losing sight of fundamentals, flash but not

brash, Masala Art is one very tasty package, even if it’s spot on the second floor of the 88 lifestyle minimall means it’s usually a lot emptier than it deserves to be.

มาซาลา อาร์ท ทองหล่อ ซ.8

Malaysian Kopitium (map E4) 117/C Panjit Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 55 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-381-5881 | 10am10pm | $ Although Malaysia is located virtually next door to Thailand, Malaysian food is almost impossible to find in Bangkok. Fortunately, thanks to one enterprising Malaysian, the flavours of our southern neighbor finally have a place in the Big Mango. Kopitiam, possibly Bangkok’s only Malaysian eatery, literally means coffee shop, but you’ll find much more than hot drinks. Start with nasi lemak, a Malaysian breakfast staple of rice cooked in coconut cream and served with a variety of sides. Kopitiam’s take on the dish is coupled with beef rendang, a dry curry braised for several hours until just falling apart. Follow this with rojak, the Malaysian equivalent of som tam, a dish sporting crunchy cucumber, pineapple and a sweet/ savoury prawn paste-based sauce. So good you’ll soon be wondering just where Malaysia has been all your life.

โกปิเตียม ปานจิตทาวเวอร์ ซ.ทองหล่อ

Masala Art

bangkok 101

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Food&Drinks

South American

Dalad

vietnamese Dalad (map C2) 36/7 Phahon Yothin Soi 7 (Ari) | BTS Ari | 02-271-2109 | 10:30am-10pm | $ Everything about this cosy Vietnamese eatery is inviting. From its cute flowery front patio, to its bright and simple vintage interior, comfy atmosphere and mouthwatering menu, Dalad has got everything the Soi Ari lunch and dinner crowds crave. While it’s often true that appearances are deceiving, at Dalad, what you see is what you get. The staff are friendly. And the food fresh, tasty and inexpensive, with

dim-sum

generous portions of the classics like pho (soup), pakmor (steamed flour rolls with shrimp) and the popular nem-noung (a set of grilled pork meatballs served with bouquet of fresh herbs and veggies) coming in at B60150. A dish you definitely should not miss is the rarely seen kao peak yuan, a Vietnamese round noodle served in thick soup. Those who live in the area can talk advange of the free delivery service. And those who don’t should relish the trip to Soi Ari, a hip residential enclave that’s well worth exploring.

ดาลัด พหลโยธิน ซ.7 (อารีย์)

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Bai Yun

Floating 200m above it all, the award-winning Bai Yun – or “white cloud” in Cantonese – wows you with maroon décor, tall Emperor chairs and seemingly never-ending panoramas from arched, ceiling high windows. But it’s more than just fancy-schmancy – the 30-dish, all-you- can-eat Dim Sum menu is also perfection. Har Gau shrimp dumplings… crabmeat wontons… dreamy snow fish on steamed tofu… All served with unobtrusive flair, all uniformly fresh, and all for a respectable B750++. Desserts are rudimentary (think fruit salad, cantaloupe sago or fried banana) but a bowl of the day’s soup is included. Alternatively, head off-piste and down the a la carte path – your wallet Where Banyan Tree F60, won’t love you for it, but you’re 21/100 South Sathorn Rd, stomach will. Status-enhancing 02-679-1200 Open 11:30amhighlights include poached sea 2:30pm Price B750++ Monconch, braised abalone, and, for a Fri, B800++ weekends warming dessert, essence of bird’s nest and ginko nut served piping hot in whole cantaloupe. Reservations recommended, especially at weekends when Bangkok’s dimsum mad upper-echelons ascend en masse.

LA CUCHARA (map C4) 2/38 Soi Sribumphen (Soi Sathorn 1)| BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-679-9910 |11:30am – midnight | $$ We wouldn’t normally recommend you venture down a shadowy alley lined with dirty laundry, but this tiny three-table joint is so different that we’ll make an exception. Run by a plucky Thai lady, La Cuchara stands out, not just for its hearty Columbian food but also its backstreet-in-Bogotá aesthetic (blue walls and red tables, candlelight, potted plants and cheeky Fernando Botero paintings), soft Latin jazz and “toxic” cocktails. It’s worth coming just to try dishes you won’t find elsewhere: tapas-y starters like Ceviche de Camaron (a tangy-spicy tomato salad studded with chilli, feta and coriander), hearty mains like the La Cuchara Pork (a paprika and potato pork stew served with tasty cassava root, salsa and fried banana sides). But, as unusual and carb-filling as these are, it’s the cocktails that put the Latino oomph in your evening. A few of their barman’s hot-blooded piscosours or cachaça-laced caipirinhas and you’ll be shaking your hips like Shakira in the nearest club afterwards. That, or keeled over on a sofa in their upstairs chill-out room – order with care! It’s a word-of-mouth sort of place, so do the right thing: enjoy then pass it on.

ลาคูชาร่า ซ.ศรีบำเพ็ญ (สาธร ซ.1)

รร. บันยันทรี ถ.สาทร

La Cuchara

food & drinks

bangkok 101

runching is big in Bangkok. All five-star hotels and respectable cafés do them. Some are kid-friendly, others are strictly adult.You can get tipsy at some, while others focus on music. Curing a hangover? Need to eat al fresco? We offer you a sampling of Bangkok’s best.

brunching

featured

RANG MAHAL

brunch

Most hotel brunches in the city are set inside buffet-oriented restaurants that focus on offering the widest array of choices. This often means that quality is sacrificed for quantity. Rang Mahal’s Sunday spread, however, narrows down the variety to focus on one single cuisine – Indian – while maintaining the bottomless qualities of a buffet. Elevated high above Sukhumvit Road, this white tablecloth restaurant comes top of practically every list of best Indian restaurants WHERE Rembrandt Hotel, in town. Your main concern here should not be 26th F19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 (map the quality of food coming out of the kitchen, D3) BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit, but how much of these rich, creamy curries 02-261-7100 OPEN Sun 11am – and aromatic freshly-baked flatbreads you can 2pm PRICE B850net actually down in one sitting. Start your subcontinental feast by crunching on papri chat, fried dough with tamarind chutney, before making your way to some of the heavier and hotter fare, like prawn jheenga masala and lamb rogan josh. While the large platter of tandoori and seafood may begin to fan your carnivorous flames, it’s the shwarma stand with its large hunk of spit-fired chicken that will set you ablaze. Douse the heat with a tall glass of refreshing sweet lassi, and close with a diabetes-inducing treat, gulab jamun, a traditional Indian dessert consisting of fried milk dough bathed in a generous serve of sugary syrup.

รร.แรมแบรนดท์ สุขุมวิท ซ.18

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

tea

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Midcity or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea

featured

THE SUKHOTHAI

Set in a serene, high-ceilinged room overlooking the hotel’s elegant waterscaping, the Sukhothai’s afternoon tea is one of the best in the city. Forget tired, dried-out bread, limp watercress, or rock-like scones. Tea sippers here enjoy an excellent classical set featuring a few hot nibbles – perhaps a perfectly fried shrimp cake or little pastry filled with pork and crab meat – followed by a decadent onslaught of desserts and sandwiches. The latter show an exceptional amount of care – focaccia or whole wheat breads, divine duck pate, smoky roast vegetables, imported meats – and are WHERE Lobby Salons, The hearty enough to counteract the insulin Sukhothai Hotel 13 South Sathorn shock that a tea set can bring. Desserts are Rd. l 02-344-8888 ext. 5725 MRT uniformly excellent, with Brazilian coffee Lumphini WHEN Mon – Fri cakes, pistachio macaroons and scones 2pm - 6pm PRICE The Perfect slathered with passion fruit marmalade Tea Break – Baht B800++/set per or mascarpone cream all on offer, among person many other not-too-sweet sweets. Teas are quite good, although herbal teas should come loose-leaf and not in a bag. Consider springing for the special Mariage Frères teas – you’ll pay a bit more, but what could be better than a richly aromatic Marco Polo brew with spread as good as this one?

รร.สุโขทัย ถ. สาทรใต้

food & drinks

bangkok 101

■ Sukhumvit Q BAR 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-2am The ever popular Sukhumvit nightclub serves mighty tasty quesadilla, burgers, ribs, khao mun gai, beef jerky and schwarma and has a cool, al fresco terrace area perfect for enjoying them on with friends.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either. Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you. Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-391-9634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half restaurant, half art gallery with innovative Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

dishes like curried crab crêpes. Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya. Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine ■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare. ■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you’re around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.96) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.62). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Coyote on Convent Sivadon Building | 1/2 Convent Rd | 02631-2325 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Tex-Mex Fare with an endless list of margaritas.

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier.

Bug and Bee18 Silom Rd. | 02-2338118 | BTS Sala Daeng | open 24 hours | www.bugandbee.com Four storey café offers up Thai and fusion

Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Thai and International Food

bangkok 101

late-night dining

food & drinks

Sunrise Tacos

Bug and Bee

Food&Drinks

sweet treats

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

Sweet Hound

Coming from the brains behind Greyhound Café, this folks is the new dessert bar to be seen with a chocolate stained chin at. Situated just outside the J Avenue branch of the fashion label’s enduringly hip restaurant chain, Sweet Hound has a more adorable look than its bigger sibling. White pokka dots, bare cement walls, wooden furniture and titter-inducing quotes (e.g. “when life needs sugar coating” or “life is short, more dessert?”) meet a Parisian patisserie feel. Greyhound’s Creative Director and sidekick, a young pastry chef from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, have concocted a menu featuring parfaits, ice creams, cakes and crepes, but most emphatically waffles. A trip here would be incomplete without biting down on one of these toasted, batter-based treats dappled with melting butter or served with your choice of sweet (flambé banana and pineapple, WHERE G. level J – Avenue,Soi marshmallow, banana) or savoury (cheddar Thong Lo 15, 02-712-6547BTS cheese, bacon) toppings. More into chocolate? Thong Lo OPEN Sun – Thu Then do try the Chocolate Lover parfait: a 11am–10pm, Fri – Sat 11am – joyously gooey melding of chocolates you’ve 11:30pm PRICE B60-180 loved since you were a kid (Ferrero Rocher, Maltesers, etc) with brownie, chocolate ice cream, cornflakes and more. Naughty but nice! Among the cakes, the inside out blueberry cream cheese on a short bread crust (B120) is worth a try, if a bit too heavy on the cheese for our liking. Smoothies and some classic Thai sweets, including black grass jelly with brown sugar, are also served.

เจอเวนิว ทองหล่อ ซ.15

food & drinks

bangkok 101

Buffet Venues ■ TASTE Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | 6am – 11pm | Breakfast B650++, Lunch 790++, Dinner B1,100++ ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | noon-2.30pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ Panorama Restauarant Pan Pacific Bangkok | 02-632-9000 | 6:30am – 10:30am, 11:30am – 2:30pm | Breakfast 695 net, Lunch 690++ ■ No.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ Lord jim’s buffet Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ Orchid Café Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ Citi Bistro Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10pm | lunch B650net, dinner B1,300net

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

all you can eat

featured

HAJIME

buffet

The robots have landed… and they’re working in a Japanese Shau-Shabu joint off Rama III Road. Seriously folks, Hajime is the hottest all-you-can-eat in town right now, all thanks to its robotic waitstaff that look like a cross between Johnny Number 5 from Short Circuit and a samurai. Here’s how it works: after punching your selection into a touch screen, your bot rouses from his electric dreams, picks up your chosen raw meat and veg and glides down a glass encased track, delivering it to the window of your booth with car-factory-line precision. The owners of Hajime apparently spent a cool B30 million with industrial bot makers Motoman because these robo-waiters cut down on labour costs, don’t drop plates, finger the food or expect tips, etc. But, it doesn’t take a supersmart replicant to work out that this is total hooey – it’s a gimmick. And a very effective one at that, judging by evenings and Where 3rd floor, Monopoly weekends in this swish joint on the third floor Park, 59/27 Industrial Ring Road, of a quiet new lifestyle mall, when the place just off Rama 3 Road, 02-683swarms with white-collar couples and families, 1191 #1 Open 11am-10:30pm and kids spend more time bouncing up and Price B449++ business class, down on their seats giggling than actually B559++ first class eating, especially when the bots, in quiet spells, gyrate to J-pop. Definitely the supporting actor to Hajime’s inspired/infuriating (you decide) robo-waiter shtick is the food, which is just ok. Naturally, the taste depends very much on your technique, but the raw materials all pass muster – the meat and veg is fresh, and the cooking stocks and dipping sauces all tasty enough. Two options are available: a ‘business’ all-you-can-eat and a ‘1st class’ one including Japanese beef and salmon nigri sushi. Take the kids or that easily amused airhead date... they’ll love you for it.

โมโนโพลีปาร์ค ถ.วงแหวนอุตสาหกรรม (พระราม 3)

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

wine

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine featured

WINE CONNECTION DELI & BISTRO

wıne bar

This deli, bistro and wine shop rolled into one got off to a good start when it opened during the recent political troubles and locals with money to burn, but their beloved malls in lockdown, began flocking to the new K Village lifestyle mall instead. And they still are. On our Wednesday evening visit the place was rammed, every table taken, though not all with wine drinkers tellingly. And weekends are even busier, with demand so high that its walk-ins only. The unfussy venue has a semi-circle shape, with high and low tables lit by overhead lamps lining the plate glass windows outside, and lots more seating inside. In the centre is a deli counter filled with imported cheeses, olives and cold cuts etc, all available for take-home. And round the side, latched on one end like a leach, is the wine shop, where you can pick up a bottle of that spry pinot gricio you’ve just been slurping at wholesale prices. Complimenting the mid-range (B3,900 tops) and well-curated wine selection featuring several award winners from Old World and New is some reasonably priced bistro-ish fare; a lamb shank goes for B390 and pleasantly crispy thin crust pizzas for B160-220. Another nice touch are the build-your-own cheese platters, though the fresh bread they’re served with was a little tough (perhaps an afternoon batch is in order). Serious oeniphiles may well WHERE 93,95, K-Village come over all sniffy – though there are several Room A116-118, Soi trained sommeliers on Wine Connection’s Aree (Sukhumvit26) BTS staff it’s not apparent how you’d find them; Phrom Phong, 02-661it also lacks the intimacy and mingling and 3942 OPEN 7am – bonhomie of the best wine-bars, feeling a bit midnight impersonal and, well, mall-like. And it’s loud, with ill-fitting pop music from the likes of the Black Eyed Peas instead of the usual jazz quartet in the corner and everyone shouting to be heard above it. Still, though it could use refinement, the concept clearly has legs. Try it and see what you think – everyone else is.

เควิลเลจ สุขุมวิท 26

food & drinks

Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

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Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Cowboy (btw sois 21 & 23). And voguish but affordable amount of options – so much more than just the hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and whisky-sippin’ naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot sois of Thong A night out here can easily have you flitting between Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.95) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.94), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.84. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can. The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.86), there’s something for all. Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here. Supperclub (p.82) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes – n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque Soi where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks. 80

nightlife

bangkok 101

Nightlife

nightclubs

Q Bar

Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no. Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4,Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or 82

dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping. ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 Club Culture (map B3) Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. | 089-4978422 | www.club-culture-bkk.com | 8pm – 2am When the original Club Culture closed earlier this year, the city’s hipster clubbers let out a collective sob, their grief compounded by the lack of similar discotecas where they could dress up daft and dance with drunken abandon. Now, the crew are back with something altogether bigger and better: an abandoned four-storey factory warehouse conversion on the Old City’s Ratchadamnoen Klang road. Though still in its soft opening phase, it’s already one of the coolest places in town to be seen after sunset, with three of its four levels open for booty-shaking business. Unlike the old venue, though, it’s only open three nights a week. Thursday is Bangkok City Beats night, playing mainly tech house, minimal, and electro, while the dj’ing big guns and wild theme parties fronted by local talent fill up the weekends (check their website).

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past seven years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 80’s pop hits with house music.

เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

คลับคัลเจอร์ ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง nightlife

bangkok 101

Calypso

Demo

Cabarets DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970-1 | 8pm1am | free (except one-off parties) Is Demo a sign of clubs to come in Thonglor? Or just a blip on the slickly gentrified area’s cookie-cutter nightclub factory line? Time will tell. In the meantime, we strongly suggest you check out this ramshackle tenement building turned gritty warehouse. Not only does it look like a venue you’d find in shabby, hipster-heaving East London. It sounds like one too: instead of mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast trendy nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school. Further boosting its streetcool hip quotient, 1980s Brooklynstyle graffiti covers the brick walls and a vintage white Toyota Celica gleams in one corner. They offer a huge range of (quite expensive) beers, shots and cocktails and, though it’s only recently opened, weekends are already packed out with an international crowd.

เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ.10

808 (map D3) RCA, block C | 02-203-1043 | MRT Pra ram 9 | www.808bangkok.com | 9am-late This slick nightclub – all imposing red lighting, exposed brick and steelcladding – has been a hit with clubbers bangkok 101

ever since it landed on RCA in 2007. The reason: the consistently worldclass line-up. Grandmaster Flash, James Lavelle and Derrick May to name but a few global DJ giants, have all rocked this post-industrial warehouse, aided in no small part by the ear-drum/ body/table rattling sound-system (watch that drink dance!). Head up to the balcony for a comfy leather perch, or gyrate with the diehards on the dancefloor. Entrance prices vary depending on who is gracing the decks that night.

เอท โอ เอท อาร์ซีเอ บลอกซี

GLOW (map D3) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | | 6pm-2am This boutique club/bar/lounge challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-to-night, with deep-house and electro looming large and no hip-hop (hurrah!). Foxy coyote girls, dancing on the bar, make queuing for drinks here something of a guilty pleasure. For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool and up-todate website.

โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ.23

nightlife

MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Rd | 02-294-7381-2 | show time 7:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm) | B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ ถ.พระราม3

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ่ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below. Long Table

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Balco (map B4) 5th FL River City Shopping Complex, Yota Road, Charoen Krung 30 | Si Phaya Pier | 084-928-6161 | 6pmlate, closed Mondays If coasting along the Chaophraya River on a dinner cruiser leaves you wanting, after disembarking the boat at the River City Shopping Complex, pop up to Balco Bar on its rooftop. This airy alfresco hangout offers farreaching views of all the action on this busy waterway, a good mix of friendly locals and tourists, and soothing music from bossa nova tunes to house beats as the night rolls on. Reasonably priced drinks (beer B80, cocktails B180, whiskey B1, 200) include interesting cocktail choices created by the bar’s owner. If your favorite drink is off the menu, request it and they’ll be happy to mix it for you. A good place for lovebirds and flocks of friends to sit back on the funky nest-shape chairs or couches, catch a breeze and that memorable Bangkok riverscape.

บัลโค ศูนย์การค้าริเวอร์ซิตี้ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16

Panorama (map C3) Pan Pacific Bangkok, Rama IV Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for interminably hot or drizzly nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter found in the partitioned area at the rear of the Pan Pacific’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and up over downtown – not quite breathtaking, but still very Bangkok.

รร. แพนแปซิฟิค ถ.พระราม 4

bangkok 101

Amorosa

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee.The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe.The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

รร. โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart bangkok 101

surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor nightlife

and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smartcasual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterraneanish Amorosa.The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day of temple hopping. And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant,The Deck, and 6 lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

Nightlife

hotel bars & nightclubs

Zuk Bar

Bamboo Chic

CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-255-6888 | www.cm2bkk.com | 6:30pm-2am The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s party cave par excellence still packs them in over a decade after it opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. Gone is the old karaoke complex, making room for pool tables and lounging space overlooking the big and quite 1980s looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) dancefloor. It’s mainstreamy all the way. DJs play Club 18-30-style dance-pop and bubbly live bands perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition (Simon Cowell would be impressed). Cheesy? Maybe, a bit; but still a fun (and always eye-opening) experience. International and Thai food, as well as a whopping great cocktail list that includes some made with Amaltery’s alcoholic ice-cream, is served.

รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ซ.6

Bamboo Chic (map C4) Le Meridien Bangkok 4F, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8888 | BTS Sala Daeng | www.lemeridienhotelbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Dim-tones and giant chandeliers set the tone for haute Sino-Nippon cuisine at Bamboo Chic: Le Meridien hotel’s dashing designer resto-bar. But Bangkok’s jetset have also taken a shine to what’s being served over at the arresting lime-florescent bar – innovative cocktails like the Kyoto martini: a delectable blend of dry gin, midori, dry vermouth and lemon juice, served in a fishbowl glass. Highwattage smiles and slick service rounds off this voguish venue, as apt for postwork or pre-dancefloor tipples as it is a swanky dinner. Just steel yourself for a blast of cognitive dissonance on arrival… Patpong, the neon sleazepit cum night market, is Bamboo Chic’s unscrupulous neighbour.

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | MonSat 5pm-1am, Sun noon- midnight Hotel guests and clued-up suits enjoy zesty cocktails, creative canapés and an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquillity at this classy hotel bar. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the sultry look, mood and service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for heart-to-hearts. The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a sociable spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior. Quietly solicitous lady staff clad in silk serve while a DJ from Tues to Sat spins soulful tunes.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

รร.เลอ เมอริเดียน กรุงเทพ ถ.สุรวงศ์

CM2 CM2

nightlife

bangkok 101

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

Barsu

Spasso

Club 87 Plus (map C3) Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-690-9087 | 6pm - 2am Bigger, sleeker and sexier, the Conrad hotel’s recently relaunched flagship nightspot has targeted its audience from the get-go. Don’t be expecting minimalist jungle or Ibiza-style foam par ties, but if you like to cut a little rug to tunes from the 80s and 90s, this joint should do just fine. The main draw here is the band, Citybeat (Tues-Sun, 10pm-2am). They know how to get a par ty going with their tried and tested repertoire of funked-up pop classics. DJ 90 provides the soundtrack for the daily buy-one-get-one-free Happy Hour (6-9:30pm), and takes centre stage on Monday evenings. Thursday is Ladies Night and Sunday’s Latin. There’s also a nifty new smoking lounge adjoining the venue.

โรงแรมคอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

nightlife

SPASSO (map C3) Lower lobby, Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-254-1234 | www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | noon2:30pm, 6:30pm-2am After going strong for more than a decade, the mother of all live venues still doles out fantastic Italian food and cool bands.The food is so good lunches and brunches teem with high society types.Thai execs and bubbly after-work expats turn up from 7pm onwards to tuck into simple-soundings but firstclass Italian specialties; it’s a pretty good value, especially considering this is a five-star hotel joint. Whatever you’ll try, have it with what must be Bangkok’s best sangria. Come 10pm, diners thin out when the live band starts pumping out high-energy songs which get the dance floor heaving with a mixed, grown-up crowd – weekend nights can see people queuing up to get in.

แกรนด์ไฮแอทเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Nightlife

bars Hyde & Seek (map C3) 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 02-168-5152 | BTS Phloen Chit | 11am-1am | $$ Two bright lights of Thailand’s F&B scene opened this stylish downtown gastro bar: a dead-ringer for one of those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is fuelled by Chanond Purananda, a partner in Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgianinfluenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and the beginnings of a minimaze of tea plants to partition dining areas. Hyde & Seek is a rare entry into the still huge market for high quality at middle prices, and swarms with the rich and powerful looking most nights, so best book ahead.

แอทธินีเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี

Hyde & Seek

WTF

WTF (map E4) 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 |BTS Thonglor | 02626-6246 | BTS Thong Lo | www.wtfbangkok.com | Tues-Sun 6pm1am (gallery open from 3pm) “It’s just like a bar in BarcelonaBerlin-Brooklyn” (take your pick), say punters when they enter WTF. The tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs apparently salvaged from an old Czech café. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo, feta salad and pork fried-rice steamed in lotus leaf. It’s more intimate and much, much smaller, but WTF definitely owes a DNA strand or two to Raindogs, the creative social club that shutdown earlier this year. And that’s a good thing. Just like it, there are occasional live gigs, edgy art exhibitions (in two bare white rooms upstairs), and, on busy nights, a mix of local indie hipsters, journos and art-scensters to chew the fat with.

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place.The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnameseinspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues. The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

ดับเบิลยูทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ.51

nightlife

bangkok 101

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am This shabby open-air streetside joint is a real Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety island hole-inthe-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. CC’s is the kind of place where it’s easy to fall into conversation with other patrons; whether it’s because you’re sheltering from a rain shower together or end up sharing one of the few tables. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

THE IRON FAIRIES & CO (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor | www.theironfairies.com This recent arrival injects a healthy dose of creativity into the city’s nightlife scene and is probably the coolest bar in Bangkok right now. It’s an oddball cross between a curiosity-cum-antiques shop — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — and homage to the 1920s. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables impressing inebriated revellers with his slight of hand, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the castiron spiral staircase. The venue has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam set with a touch of the bordello. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a wellmixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the burgers, which are served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, are divine.

ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ

bangkok 101

The Iron Fairies

PHRANAKORN BAR (map A3) Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd. | 02-622-0282 | 6pm-1am When Khao San Road’s obnoxious bars wear thin – and they do – flee in search of this cool, multi-level boozer tucked just off Ratchadamnoen Road. It’s an old favourite of local art students, mostly for its indie/80s/90s worshipping playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views, over rickety old-city rooftops, towards the floodlit Golden Mount temple. The booze and Thai food is also cheap as chips, as is most of the modern art hanging on the second floor. Tried to find it before but failed? You wouldn’t be the first. From the Burger King end of Khao San Road, turn right onto Ratchadamnoen, right again and it’s down the first soi on your left hand-side. In the evenings there’s usually at least one vintage VW beetle parked outside.

พระนครบาร์ ซ.ดำเนินกลางใต้ ถ.ราชดำเนิน nightlife

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serveyourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Put it this way: if you’re looking for a chocolate Martini and a plate of tapas, you’re in the wrong place.Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom –and watch the night unfold.

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

Nightlife

jazz clubs

Bamboo Bar

THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Jazzy Brunch. Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, The Living Room mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ 90

nightlife

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must. รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล

bangkok 101

Niu’s on Silom

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well worth crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jaw-dropping jazz venue. Since July its dressy crowd has been soaking up that camera-grabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of Micki L Murphy. Her sultry renditions – spanning jazz to bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed. รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every bangkok 101

Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club.The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

nightlife

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club Is Bangkok’s newest and brightest jazz club location, Where you can enjoy live performances daily, which include International musicians and some of the hottest local musicians.

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club

Wine Bar & Restaurant 661 Floor 1-2 Silom Road (cnr Soi 19) Tel: 0 2266 5333-4 Daily 5pm-1am; Free valet parking reservation@niusonsilom.com www.niusonsilom.com

Nightlife

live music

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

Bangkok Rocks

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do theThai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

OVERTONE (map D3) 29/70-72 RCA Zone D | 02-2030423 | www.overtone.tv | Closed Mon/Tues Overtone has what every venerable rock club needs: a wall of fame. And it’s a good one. Megadeth and Jimmy Page have both graced Overtone with their straggly-haired presence, as has pretty much every lightening fingered axe-grinder in the Kingdom. Not bad for a live music cave tucked along RCA, a club-strip that usually does a good line in brash hip-hop superclubs. Inside, bands rock out while vintage Les Paul and Fender Stratocaster guitars, presented like hallowed museum pieces in backlit wall alcoves, look on. The orange-themed décor is a little more suave than your average rock dive, but the steady line-up of hard rock acts intermingled with the odd night of jazz, indie, blues or ska one of the most intriquing in town. Check their website for the latest.

โอเวอร์โทน ถ.อาร์ซเี อโซนดี nightlife

Bangkok Rocks (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

รร.เดอะคีย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.19

Overtone

Brown Sugar

bangkok 101

Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm-1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage, it’s a sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eyecandy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. It’s a hike, but well worth it. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s – the secret’s out!

ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์

Parking Toy

Tawandaeng German Brewery (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | If there’s one place that slaps you round the chops and screams “you’re in Thailand!” it’s Tawandang. This humungous, barrel-shaped beer hall with decent micro-brewed beer takes its cue from Deutschland. But the live music and unchecked sanuk up to 1,600 lary revelers enjoy here each night here is something very Thai. Its laidback early on, with everyone chomping on plates of the famous deep fried pork knuckle and German sausage, among other decent Thai, Chinese and German dishes. By 10pm though, when bellies are full, the lager’s kicked in and the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam performances by the famous Fong Nam houseband and guests are at full pelt, everybody is on the feet and the place going bananas. Tipsy tourists clink glasses with every stranger in reach, while middle-aged mums shake their tooshes beside ladyboys. Great, goofy, love-for-Bangkok reaffirming fun. Reservations a must for big groups.

โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them reliving their glory years here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride it is you’ve stumbled on, while inside house bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything from Van Halen to Motorhead covers. Bands get going at 10pm weekdays, 9:30pm on weekends, as they have done for the past 22 years.

เดอะ ร๊อคผับ ถ.พญาไท

TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 www.titaniumbangkok. com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from.An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม ไอซ์บาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

nightlife areas

Hemlock

PHra athit rd

Police Station

Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of dek naew (trendy teens) and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young locals bounce along to excellent live ska. A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite, Zest [4] focuses on live Brit Rock, while Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down another alley, is a retro-cool cocktail house. More full-on, The Club [6] is a popular techno palace offering free UV glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an open-sided rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till the wee hours. For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at 1 6 3 2 rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club Burger kHao sanroad rd Khao San [10] also deserves a mention. King 5

Ekkamai/Thonglor

Funky Villa

new phetchaburi rd

Ekkamai Soi 28

Soi 20

Soi 16

Thong Lor Soi 10

Ekkamai Soi 10

Soi 1

Sukhumvit RD

Soi 21

In recent years these parallel boulevards have embraced sweeping gentrification and emerged as upmarket playgrounds for the young, studiously cool zeitgeist follower, be they celebrity, model, arty type, uni student or slick professional. Aside from their surfeit of luxury condos, boutique lifestyle emporiums, designer spas and restaurants both are studded with trendy nightspots catering to a predominantly Thai clientele. New ones pop up every few months, as if to keep hipsters on their toes and match that season’s colours. For now Muse [1], FunkyVilla [2] and Demo [3] – three giganto clubs on Thonglor Soi 10 – are all the rage. Meanwhile, scattered about are old-timers like Song Saleung [4], a recently refurbished and often heaving live music joint, and Shades of Retro [5] – a combo furniture-store café and hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd. Ekkamai’s main drag and side-streets are even better endowed party-wise. Curvaceous Curve [6] and glamorous Jet Metropolitan [7] are big, top-shelf joints offering the usual failsafe blend of live Thai music and DJ’s spinning R’n’B. As the scene stands both are big draws, though the crowds are so gleefully fickle that could change in a Bangkok minute. Track them to the cool club of the moment. Or try two that have achieved longevity: nightclub Nunglen 4 BTS Thong Lor [8] and scruffy little bar Happy Monday [9]. Pretty Soi 55 (Thong lor) young things bounce along 5 to Thai tunes in the former; 1 2 while media types (25+) 3 hobnob while enjoying low6 8 key indy-rockstar DJ sessions Soi 63 (Ekkamai) (May T from Modern Dog 7 9 etc) and slouchy sofas in the BTS Ekkamai latter. nightlife

bangkok 101

ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

road AL LO C

road

For a night of clubbing,Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music. Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] bangs out bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, slick granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [4], a red-brick warehouse with a crisp sound system and sets by global DJ gods. And opposite sits Cosmic Cafe [5], where indie types catch up with pals and nod appreciatively to live bands. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] hosts some of the best rock, reggae or blues nights in town. There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a girls-only policy. Seriously: no men, gay men, drag queens or peeping Tom’s allowed.

5 RCA road

1 2

Sukhumvit Soi 11

On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, pubs, bars and nightclubs tucked off Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with hedonist expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely.This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 10 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]: a spaceship-like club-cum-restaurant that attracts a dressy international crowd every night. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad bigger than a broom cupboard. Nest [4], a 1 breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, is a more upscale option 4 offering laid2 Bed Supperclub back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean 5 Bangkok you were after? Then sheepishly make your way 3 to the backend of the Ambassador Hotel’s basement carpark, where thumping after-hours nightclub Climax (5) lures in the good, the bad, the beautiful and the ugly till the wee hours. Soi 11

Q Bar

SUKHUMVIT road

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

featured

pub Balcony Humidor

Cigar Lounges

Bully’s

First impressions can be deceptive, and Bully’s certainly falls into this category. Located close to the infamous Nana Plaza, boasting a mock Tudor facade and with a giant bronze bull out front you might wonder what you are stepping into. But, this is no darts parlor or pick up joint; instead you will discover a spacious, American influenced, sports bar with a laid-back and slightly eclectic ambience. Filled with tiffany lamps, sprawling trees, neon signs and with wooden canoes hanging from the ceiling, it is part pub, part curio cave. The long bar dominates the length of one side with the rest of the space given over to high tables, wall hugging WHERE 8 Sukhumvit Rd, booths and four pool tables. btw Soi 2 and Soi 4 BTS Bully’s Angels, the attentive Nana (map D3), 02-656bar staff, flit between the tables 4609 OPEN 11am-1am as the regulars enjoy the big screen sports, discerning choice of music and, of course, the mandatory dart board. With Kronenbourg, Bulmers Cider, Guinness and Paulaner all available the choice of drinks is as varied as the décor whilst the affordable food menu is also a big draw thanks to the owner’s previous experience as a top chef.

บุลลี่ส์ผับ ถ. สุขุมวิทระหว่าง ซ.2 กับ ซ.4

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality coronas and fine figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges typically feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and stellar selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and what is billed as Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies. n Balcony Humidor & P&L Club Cigar Bar Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 n Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight n La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com n P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

Club Perdomo

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak sathorn road

Thaniya

patpong

1 Convent road

Surasak road

silom road

BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

Sukhumvit AREA PUBS

bangkok 101

soi 39

sukhumviT road

BTS Asoke

soi 22

soi 12

soi 6

soi 4

sukhumviT road

BTS Nana

soi 35

soi 11

soi 13

soi 33

soi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene

As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering citysized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map - and prepare for sheer retail overload.

UNIQUE boutique

KHOMAPASTR

Silk may be syonymous with Thai textiles, but at Khomapastr it’s all about durable, comfortable and cheaper cotton. This has been the case ever since it’s founder, his Royal Highness Prince Bovoradej, worked out how to screen-print traditional Thai designs onto the natural fibre back in 1948. Most famous of its designs – many of which were adapted from books on classical Thai motifs housed at Bangkok’s National Musuem – is the “Lai Pa Kiao”, or gold hand print, a complex design that was traditionally used for garments worn by the Royal Family. This Khomapastr signature has appeared in Thai theatre productions, and WHERE Miracle Mall, pops up left, right and centre in many well-toSukhumvit 41 BTS Phrom do Thai homes, including the Royal Family’s Phong, 02-260-8889, Vimanek Mansion. And it remains a best-seller www.khomapastrfabrics.com to this day at their three shops, one down in PRICE B250&360/yard Hua Hin, where Khomapastr was founded, the other two in Bangkok, appearing on everything from cushion covers and head pillows to homeware items. But this design classic isn’t all they sell. Over the past 60 years, Khomapastr has created over 1,000 designs, ranging from twists on Thai motifs, literary characters and mythological creatures, to pastoral depictions of Siamese lifestyles. There are also lots of nattier European-style plant, animal, fruit and graphic designs available, some modern and Laura-Ashley like, others clearly channelling English textile hero William Morris. This may seem a bit odd to those used to seeing textile shops here packed with staunchly homespun silks, but makes perfect sense in the context of Hua Hin, a beach resort town that took on a breezy European elan back in the late 19th century. Don’t see a pattern you like among Khomapastr’s clothes, accessories and homeware range? Fortunately, all fabrics are available by the metre.

มิราเคิลมอลล์ สุขุมวิท 41

shopping

bangkok 101

stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, home-grown “stuff” that Bangkok is justly famous for. Papercut & The Pencil Sharpener

Silk/apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down.The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom bangkok 101

Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for royalty), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com

Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while youth-orientated shopping mall Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer homespun high fashions by labels like Jaspal and Greyhound.

Jewellery/gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionallymined precious stones. The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam. There are a few diamonds in the rough, though. Lambert Industries, with their friendly and reliable service, has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. n Lambert Industries (807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg 4F, Silom Rd Soi 17, 02-236-4343).

OTOP: One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP, a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living.

shopping

Shopping

Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.102). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week. Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.102); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595

Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th n Panpuri

Shopping Tips

n Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head.

n Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

n Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. 100

shopping

Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power. At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Isetan Plaza (CentralWorld) F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info n VAT: Look out for signs advertising “VAT Refund or Tourists”. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7% on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th

bangkok 101

bangkok design Brian Mertens

PROMETHEAN:

THAWAN DUCHANEE

amous since the 1960s for his virtuoso drawings and paintings, Thawan Duchanee has also created a vast and remarkable collection of sculptural furnishings, which serve purposes more ritualistic than functional. His throne-like chairs suggest the totemic creations of a North American tribe, assembled from animal hides and bones that the artist has collected over a lifetime of world travel. Created for his own studios and residences, the seats and beds are meant to convey a heightened sense of spiritual and aesthetic awareness, of connection to nature and the past. Many of the natural artifacts served as models for Thawan’s art, in which figures of animals play a central role as emblems of beauty, mystery and power. Intertwined with depictions of humans and divinities, the creatures become metaphors for the artistic quest and the psyche itself. Thawan, who also creates elaborately stylized jewelry, decorative knives and axes, cites influences ranging from Salvador Dali to Michelangelo to tribal art. An art prodigy who held his first solo exhibition at the age of four, Thawan grew up observing wild animals in the forests of his home province of Chiang Rai, in Thailand’s mountainous far north. His father was a soldier who taught him to hunt. His mother, a traditional healer, took him into the jungle foraging for natural medicines. His fascination with animals continues: he keeps cobras and bobcats in several of his many homes, for which his furnishings were created. Thawan was named a National Artist in the field of visual art in 2001. CONTACT: www.thawan-duchanee.com Bangkok Design:Thai Ideas in Textiles and Furniture is the first book to explore Asia’s new wave in design creativity. Award-winning author Brian Mertens profiles 36 of Thailand’s top designers, showing how they translate their own culture and experiences into unique furnishings that have won international awards and museum exhibitions. Typically handcrafted from natural materials, the best contemporary Thai designs celebrate wit, warmth, sustainability and alluring form. Bangkok Design – published by Marshall Cavendish – B1,200 - hardcover, written by Brian Mertens, with photos by Robert McLeod. bangkok 101

shopping

101

Shopping

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 The Four Seasons 4 Grand Hyatt Erawan 5 Intercontinental 6 Holiday Inn 7 Conrad 8 Plaza Athenee 9 Royal Orchid Sheraton 10 The Oriental 11 The Peninsula 12 Shangri-La

uri rd

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

Phaya Thai rd

ph e tb

Phaya Thai rd

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chid Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine. Think Burberry.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

Ratchadamri rd 3

4 5 6

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ong s u raw

OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel. 12

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To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

oe n kr char

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Look for TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

BTS Ploen Chit

rive

yra

d. ya r S i phra

o ph cha

WITTHAYU rd

CENTRAL CHIT LOM BTS Chit Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

phetburi rd

ploenchit rd

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chid Lom All-white interior of glitzy, top-class brands – expect Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

m s ilo

bangkok 101

chatuchak weekend market

Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can get lost – literally.

JJ Gem

aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which zillions descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Chatuchak quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs during ‘Nam; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has somehow evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for peddling endangered species). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits - although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fullyblown, unadulterated fix.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

Chatuchak Map Rd . 1 n io ct

ROI

Soi 3, Section 26 | 02-272-5844 No need to traipse upcountry to get your mitts on lovely traditional-style northern textiles. The friendly owner of Roi, Khun Vasana Geb-Ngern, regularly heads up to Chiang Mai and the nothernmost border town of Mae Sai to buy stock off hill-tribes like the Naga – and she doesn’t ask silly prices either. She has a good eye too – naturally dyed cotton skirts, trousers, shoulder clothes, table runners and bags with a durable feel and traditional weave patterns fill her big, nook-filled shop to bursting. Tucked away in a wood cabinet at one end are also some one-off, finely embroidered old cotton and silk pieces. Give it a look – buy here and you’ll be helping preserve dying craft skills, as well as support the ethnic minorities who earn a living off them. 14. Clothing, miscellaneous 15. Pets and accessories 16. Clothing, miscellaneous 17. Ceramics 18. Clothing, miscellaneous 19. Ceramics 20. Clothing, miscellaneous 21. Clothing, miscellaneous 22. Home utensils and décor, furniture 23. Clothing, miscellaneous 24. Home utensils and décor, furniture 25. Home utensils and décor, furniture 26. Antiques

Rd .

Section 9

Section 11

Section 13 Section 12

Section 14

3 Section 4

To Victory Monument

Section 5

To Vibhavadhi - Rangsit Rd.

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Section 10

6 Ja eng t Pu uj Ph bl ak ic et Pa 3 Rd rk .

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Section 20

Section 21

eng

Section 15

23 Se

ct Se

Section 8

Clock Tower

n io

Section 17

Se 24

Section 19

ct Se n io ct Se

Section 21

c 2 5 t ion

Roi

1. Books, antiques, collectibles, food & drink 2. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 3. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 4. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 5. Second-hand clothing 6. Second-hand clothing 7. Art, food & drink 8. Handicraft, home décor and miscellaneous 9. Pets and accessories 10. Clothing, accessories, miscellaneous 11. Pets and accessories 12. Clothing, miscellaneous 13. Pets and accessories

3 et Ph

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K St am at pa io n n gp K ampha he

K ampha tion

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of the month

Chatuchak Station

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Shopping

markets

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the “thieves market”, this smallish street-side market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique, and a seemingly random assortment of household appliances. As its nickname would suggest, ample bargains await patient, eagleeyed shoppers - though don’t expect a receipt, let alone a refund.

นครเกษม

Ratchada Night Market Fri-Sat Nights (busiest on Saturday) | parallel with RatchadapisekLadprao intersection | MRT Ratchadapisek or Ladphrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teen-thronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). So worth the schlep, but bring a flashlight and your bargaining skills!

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was hailed as “Venice of the East”.

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-thatbe auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s obsessive collection of modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนท์บาร์ซาร์

Thewet

เทเวศน์

ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา

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bangkok 101

sidewalks

Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny T-shirts, wooden carvings, paintings and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the stuff on offer can be picked up in the malls and markets – but where’s the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain! Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff (frayed t-shirts, handbags, polka dot dresses etc) are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale by the city’s babyfaced entrepreneurs.

ถ.ข้าวสาร

Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am,

when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here.

สีลม/พัฒน์พงษ์

Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail

SimplySerene

boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

ถ.สุขมุ วิท

Pratunam A ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!). Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item.

ประตูนำ้

August Promotion:

Buy a 90 minutes Lanolin Hydrating Massage and enjoy 30 min extra for free. Perfecting the harmony between your mind, body and soul, Crystal Spa offers an exquisite Thai heritage spa experience. Using traditional Thai herbs and a masterful touch, our masseuses deliver divine treatments in a serene and exotic setting.

Crystal Spa is located on Sukhumvit Rd., right in front of BTS Phrakanong Station escalator (Exit 3). Open daily from 10.00-22.00 hrs. Free parking is available at Good Year Eagle Store.

For Reservation: Tel.02-382-2244, 02-382-4455 www.crystalspathailand.com bangkok 101

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105

Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In each new issue Bangkok 101 brings you the best of Bangkok’s new breed. Each month we uncover those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy boutique hotel banner.

AURUM

A few miles from downtown Bangkok, the enigmatic Chao Phraya River creeps past golden temple spires and adorably dilapidated godowns and shophouses – the Old City. Aurum is one of only a few lodgings where you gaze at it from your bedroom. Yes, bedroom. Eight of the 12 spotless rooms at these quiet, Where 394/27-29 Soi Pansook elegant European style lodgings overlook the (near CIMB Thai Bangkok, Tha river, though four of these have only partial rivTien branch), Maharaj Rd. Phra er views and, frustratingly, in all of them an ugly Nakorn, 02-622-2248, building stands between you and a sublime www.aurum-bangkok.com view of Wat Arun, the spectacular Khmer-style Price B3,700 – 4,600net temple. Still, even if the views at Aurum could be bettered with the aid of a bulldozer, there’s no denying their loveliness: passenger boats and rice barges whiz and putter past, and in the evenings the Wat temple on the far banks emits a golden orange glow. Moreover, just around the corner, only a few minutes walk away, is Wat Po and the Grand Palace, among other totemic, must-see Thai sights. Aurum’s public areas are thin on the ground – a lobby area with plush sofas and magazines, and that’s it! – and the blend of pretty patterned wallpaper, uninspiring Thai art, hard-wood or white vinyl floors is a little too generic and old-hat for Aurum to be truly boutiquey. But the service is helpful, the rooms comfortable (if slightly small at 30m2 and under) and the breakfast, served in adjacent riverside café Vivi, a tasty one. Two tips. The first: this neck of the woods is eerily quiet at night, so if its late-night feasting, haggling or disco-ball action you’re after, don’t even bother. The second: do take a short stroll down to nearby Pak Klong Talat. In a city where many locals spend hours each day in traffic, being able to walk deep into the bowels of this fascinatingly colourful and alive 24-hour flower market and be back in your room only minutes later, is a real privilege.

ออรั่ม เดอะ ริเวอร์เพลส ซ.ปานสุข ถ.มหาราช

106

accommodation

bangkok 101

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.109 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

Thai-massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

signature treatment

REFRESH 24’S SIGNATURE HOT OIL MASSAGE

Where 43 Soi Sukumvit 24, 02259-7235~7, www.refresh24spa. com BTS Phrom Phong Open 9am – 1am (last booking 11pm) Price B1,650 Signature hot oil massage (90 mins)/B650 cereal compress (30 mins) 108

One of the Sukhumvit area’s biggest, this 25-room manor of rubdown magic is located just down the road from Emporium shopping mall, and does a brisk trade among your more upmarket shoppers, tourists and housewives because of it. Instead of the done-to-death traditional Thai patina that prevails in day spas here, this slick new-build has a simple yet elegant vintage feel, with calming colours schemes, and Regency-era style skirting boards and furnishings.The menu is similarly understated and free of the usual overdone exotica, dabbling mostly in unflashy rubs and scrubs, though there are packages and a selection of Jurlique or Algoane facials available. Of the offerings, the hot oil massage is Refresh 24’s signature treatment and best combined, staff suggest, with a cereal compress (B600 extra). We’re inclined to agree. As much as we adore oil massages – here a superlative 90minute snooze-inducer melding Thai, Balinese and other styles – we’ve never been fond of the glutinous layer of oil that’s often left on the skin afterwards, especially in this climate. So, we like the way the masseuse applies the oil in long, sweeping strokes, before padding away the excess with a hot compress, leaving you supple and scented, but not at all sticky. The rub ends with some intense pressured thumb work on the neck and shoulder area, followed by an exhilarating head massage.

รีเฟรช24สปา ซ.สุขุมวิท 24 health & wellness

bangkok 101

typical SPA cost range

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

spas

Nicolie

NICOLIE (map B4) 1041/5 Sun Square, Silom Rd btw Soi 21-23 | BTS Surasak | 02-233-6957 | www.nicolie-th.com | 12:30am-8pm | $$$ reservation recommended Gorgeous Southeast Asian antiques, a family atmosphere, and back-to-themassage basics approach – Nicolie manages to combine seemingly contradictory elements into one sublime experience. More like an elegant museum than a massage centre, keeping your eyes open to soak up the rare antiques is a challenge, however, once you’re in the hands of Nicolie’s therapists. The focus is almost exclusively on massage – Thai, Shiatsu, Ayuravedic Abhayanga, a wonderful fusion. Rub downs are slow, exquisitely attuned, and followed by tea and herbal cookies. Using a curtain to partition two bed rooms into separate section can lead to a certain lack of privacy at peak times. But in all, the expert massages and genuinely warm staff make this spa one of your new favourite.

นิโคลี่ ซันสแควร์ สีลม

bangkok 101

RUEN NUAD (map C3) 42 Convent Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02632 2663 | 10am-9pm | $ Set off Convent Road, a century-old house shelters a boutique spa that gives you oodles of atmosphere and worldclass massages for prices you’d pay in the dingiest Silom parlours.There’s no menu to speak of. Just choose between the length of a traditional Thai, aromatherapy of foot reflexology massage – that’s it. Once upstairs, you’ll pause to settle into peaceful surroundings. A labyrinth of semi-private rooms have been installed into the high-ceilinged second floor (inspired interior ideas from the serene décor). Two VIP rooms are breathtaking. The Glass Room has a private outdoor shower amid a tiny tropical garden; the Room with the Downstairs Shower is self-explanatory. The therapists here enjoy a good reputation for their knowledge and friendliness – a standard massage can turn into a medical Q&A. The studio next door offers excellent facials. Few come here just once. This is one place you’ll still be thinking about on your way to the airport.

Suk Spa (map D3) 1/30 Sukhumvit 11 (opp Ambassador Hotel) | BTS Nana | 02-651-2672, 02-651-0461 | www.sukspa.com | 12pm-10pm (can call spa at 10am for appointments) | $$$ What is Bangkok becoming? Suk Spa wallops you with a hefty dose of cognitive dissonance – your lovely foot scrub comes with a view of the Pickled Liver pub and a VD clinic. It’s particularly jarring considering the spa’s décor – a loving homage to rapidly disappearing shop-houses and canal life, inspiring a pang of nostalgia for a Bangkok even natives can’t remember. Staff use old-school Thai names and forms of address, the jawdropping design offers a faux villagechief ’s house (a VIP room), a Buddhist shrine, even wooden planks weaving through a “canal” – it would be Disney if it weren’t so sincere, and somehow poignant. Massages are beautifully slow, performed with a sense of samadhi – a mindfulness deeply attuned to the present that undercuts the pathos of temps perdus. Unsettling and soothing at the same time -- absolutely recommended.

สุขสปา สุขุมวิท ซ.11

Suk Spa

เรือนนวด ซ.คอนแวนต์

health & wellness

109

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-the-art equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

S Medical Spa

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ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified health & wellness

physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.

เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

Amruth Wellness Center (mapE4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient at this leafy garden townhouse gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a drop-in, dropout treatment, a yoga sesh or to embark on a life-changing panchakarma package. Stocked with medicines imported from the Subcontinent, holistic highlights include a hanging massage and the head oil-dribbling odyssey that is a shiro dhara.

อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8

BANGKOK MEDIPLEX (map E4) 2/70 Sukhumvit 42, Phrakanong | BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-5555 | www.bangkokmediplex.com | 9am – 8pm Visible from the Ekkamai Skytrain Station, this gleaming steel and glass fronted lifestyle mall comprises 35 leading healthcare centres and trendy medi-lifestyle stores. There’s a clinic offering live cell therapy (a treatment to repair weak cells), a traditional Chinese medicine centre, a chiropractic centre, top notch eye-care and Thailand’s first organic supermarket. Ample parking.

แบงคอก เมดิเพลกซ์ สุขมุ วิท 42

bangkok 101

edical tourism is huge business in Thailand; a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of others – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international trade. The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other. When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls. Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad, once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your private room, they have their own immigration department and

bangkok 101

a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your trip. You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications? Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul? And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa? These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment. Hydrohealth

medical tourism Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International

33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com

FEATURED medical treatment

Colonic Irrigation

These days, you don’t have to be particularly anal about detoxing to shoot liquids up your back passage in the name of good health. Indeed, to this sticky end Bangkok boasts several high-class centres offering high-tech, low-price treatments that do exactly that. For the uninitiated, colonic irrigation – or ‘hydrotherapy’ as it’s sometimes called – is relatively painless and thought to be highly effective in cleaning the nasty fudge, sludge and other undesirable bodies from your body. All of the centres mentioned below have English-speaking staff, clean (at least when you arrive) and comfortable facilities, as well as optional (better make that compulsory – you need to know what you’re doing in this game) consultations with a health specialist prior to running amuck with the treatment. Prices range from B2,500-3,500 for a single 45-minute session, but check online for promotional prices and packages. Hydrohealth is a futuristic, space-age facility featuring the latest colonic blasters and staff who prefer to think of themselves as ‘hydrotherapists’. This state-of-the-art centre also offers 1-day and 3-day detox programs that use colonics, massage and infrared sauna to zap toxins (although not simultaneously, we hope). Piyavate Hospital has its own medical spa,Tria Integrative Wellness, and offers hydro colonic treatments. Treatments here will include a medical consultation and are performed by a doctor, who presumably can place himself for a better view than you can. The tranquil health heaven of Rasayana Retreat specializes in high-quality cleansing and detox programmes and offers a range of detox packages to complement colonic treatments. In case you haven’t discomfited yourself enough, facilities include a raw food café and a yoga-Pilates studio. COLONIC CONTACTS n Hydrohealth | 02-250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th n Tria Integrative Wellness | 02-660-2602 | www.triaintegrativewellness.com n Rasayana Retreat | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com health & wellness

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Sports

sports MASTER MUAY THAI! Many a champ started out punching mitts at one of Bangkok’s many muay Thai schools. Some are livein training camps, others geared towards drop-in sessions, but all will train you up and teach you how to deflect – and deliver – the basic moves, be it kick, jab, elbow, foot thrust or standing grapple. Beginners and female pugilists are welcome, though they often receive inordinate attention from the coming-of-age combatants. n Chacrit Muay Thai School Washington Square next to Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-260-5816 www.chacritmuaythaischool.com n Fairtex Muaythai RCA 149 3rd Fl. RCA Driving Range, Local Rd. | 02-203-1443 | www.muaythaifairtex.com n The International Muay Thai School 22/8 Moo 8, Soi 10, Pracharaj Sai1 Road, Bangsue | 02-585-6807 www.geocities.com/maimuangkorn/ eng_mai.htm n Muay Thai Institute 336/932 Prahonyothin 118 Vipravadee Road, Rangsit | 02-9920096-99 | www.muaythai-institute.net n Muaythai Sasiprapa 401 Soi Ladprao 130 Klongchan, Bangkapi | 02-378-0270 | www.muaythaisasiprapa.com

Muay Thai Institute

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THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

Fairtex

MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF, the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. spor ts

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.37) on any given day and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums.The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. bangkok 101

Active Sports AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in! BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK. bangkok 101

Major Bowl

CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand and its neighbours. ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Esplanade 4F | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more spor ts

like a nightclub on ice. Popular among youngsters, its 682m2 of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B900-2,400 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Centre (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with local ace Paradorn Srichaphan bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 113

Business

business In Bangkok on business? Rest assured it brings a lot to the table. Convention centres, ritzy hotels, world-class wine-and-dine spots... it’s little wonder it’s a regional hub for MICE (Meetings and Incentives, Conferences and Exhibitions), especially when you factor in the myriad down-time attractions. We dig up all the basics so that you don’t have to. Business Travellers Top on the list after you’ve touched down is, of course, a hotel.There are lots to choose from, in every location, but those that tick every business-traveller box include The Conrad, Sofitel Silom, Westin Grande and Sheraton Grande. Bangkok’s traffic has a justifiably miserable reputation, but having a car at your disposal can be handy. Try Limousine Thailand (www. limousinethailand.com). And if your hotel room isn’t cutting it as a makeshift office, then contact temporary office providers Regus (www.regus.co.th) or Servcorp (www.servcorp.net).

Business spotlight

There’s rarely a quiet moment on the local trade fair scene. For a rundown, see www.thaitradefair.com. Or perhaps you’re considering staging your company’s big meet or team get-away here? If so, talk to the Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (www.tceb.or.th). They say it’s who you know – not what you know. To get your face out there, join one of the networking events hosted by Bangkok Young Professionals (www.mobyelite.com/byp) or others. If you’re short on business cards – and you will be after a night at the aforementioned – try one of the many one-stopshops at MBK shopping mall. It’s also worth reading up on Thailand’s face-saving and, often quirky, business culture.Try Working with the Thais: A Guide to Managing in Thailand by Henry Holmes and Suchada Tangtongtavy (White Lotus, B495). Finally, note that any foreigner working, or doing business here, must have a non-immigrant B visa and a work permit. If your company hasn’t arranged both, go to www.immigration.go.th and find out what you need. Or contact a business solutions provider like Sunbelt Asia – they’ll do all the paperwork so that you don’t have to. Starting Up Frequently voted one of the world’s best cities, it’s no surprise that so many look to set up shop in Bangkok. However, bear in mind that although Thailand opened it doors wide to foreign investment after the Asian Financial Crisis of 1997, it can still be a tricky place to establish a business. The best advice is to find local experts to help you clear the regulatory hurdles. Business solutions provider Sunbelt Asia (www.sunbeltasia.com) offers everything from upfront legal advice to business brokerage and serviced offices. Similarly, Bangkok Base (www.bangkokbase.com) is a 360° provider of business support. Chambers of commerce can also offer advice and assistance in finding partners. There are also a few books on the market. One of the best is Philip Wylie’s How to Establish a Successful Business in Thailand. In it you will find the essentials on the minutiae of business in Thailand, from negotiating baffling bureaucracy and legal peculiarities to cultural codes and social etiquette.

THE CAMPUS

The Grand Hyatt Erawan’sThe Campus is a Bangkok MICE trailblazer: a 891m² events space said to “evoke the romance of university life, while also inspiring creative thinking and the exchange of ideas.” Located in the hotel’s lower lobby, it looks more nostalgic Ivy League campus than stuffy hotel business centre. The staff wear preppy collage blazers and striped ties; the seven rooms and linking spaces are tricked out with university flags, institutionalstyle clocks and busts of Einstein and Shakespeare. Sounds perfect for a Class of ‘78 reunion? Not your forthcoming business symposium? Think again. The Where Lower Lobby, Grand Campus hasn’t just been designed to raise a sentimental smile among all Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 49 executives and delegates who walk in her. Whether you’re presenting in the Ratchadamri Rd, 02-254-1234, 161m2 “lecture hall”, debating in one of the intimate “classrooms” or crunching numbers www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com in the “library”, it sports gleaming boutique BTS Chit Lom hotel levels of slickness, not to mention the very latest in MICE bells and whistles. Think LCD TVs, hi-tech audio, eyecatching digital signage, electronic whiteboards and mood lighting. Admittedly the fringe “camaraderie-inspiring” facilities, like the bar and entertainment hangout, may be more about Nintendo Wii tennis matches than knuckling down. But, hey, who said the corporate event can’t be fun?

แกรนด์ไฮแอทเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

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Ideo Morph 38

Buying Property Many visitors decide they want to buy property in Bangkok: some because they fall in love with the city and all its eclectic idiosyncrasies; others because they jet in and out of the city on business and want more than a hotel room can offer. Whatever the reasons, buyers can find a wide range of accommodation at very favourable prices. From simple US$18,000 studio apartments to lavish million-dollar condos, there are options to suit most budgets. Non-Thai citizens looking to acquire property in the country will most probably be looking to purchase apartments rather than houses; as the law currently stands, foreigners are permitted to buy condos providing at least 51% of the building’s units are Thai-owned. Land (and therefore houses) is a different matter. Technically foreigners are not allowed to own land in Thailand, though if you are a foreigner married to a Thai citizen, then it is quite straightforward to draw everything up in your partner’s name. Another method to acquire land is through a loan/lease agreement, whereby you loan money to a Thai citizen under a contract specifying they must use it to buy a property. Your Thai business partner will then buy the property and legally own the land. Simply put, you then get your lawyer to draw up an agreement giving you – the lender – a leasehold agreement

bangkok 101

real estate

on the property. However you decide to approach the acquisition of property, be sure to shop around and proceed with caution. Research the developers’ track record, the location, the average rate of return, and the likelihood of a super-skyscraper popping up and blocking that achingly beautiful view of the Chao Phraya River. Also, be aware that tales of relationships suddenly souring once deeds are signed are all too common. The best advice is to exercise common sense and find local experts you can trust. International brokerage firm Sunbelt Asia (www.property.th.com) has plenty of listings and English-speaking consultants on hand, while Property Report magazine (www.property-report.com) will give you a good overview of the whole scene.

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Reference

survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words. Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement). The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then. Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you? I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

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sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná ˘ thôt kho khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669 LOST CREDIT CARD CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) MasterCard 02-260-8572 Visa 02-273-1199 or 02-273-7449 MEDICAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHONE SERVICES Bangkok Directory Inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 International Long Distance 100 Overseas Subscribers Call 001 TOURISM OFFICES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist Information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-282- 9773, 02-2505500 | daily 8:30am- 4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02- 250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www. bangkoktourist.com IMMIGRATION DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am- 4pm EMBASSIES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02344-6300 | www.austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place 15F, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.bangkokinternational.gc.ca bangkok 101

Cambodia 185 Ratchadamri Rd | 02957-5851-2 | RECBKK@hotmail.com China 57 Ratchadaphisek Rd, Din Daeng | 02-245-7043/4 | www.chinaembassy.or.th India 46 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02258- 0300/5 | www.indianembassy. gov.in/bangkok Indonesia 600-602 Phetchaburi Rd | 02-252-3135/40 Japan 177 Wireless Rd | 02-696-3000, 02-207-8500 | www.th.emb-japan.go.jp Laos 520, 502/1-3 Wang Thonglang Rd | 02-539-6667 | www.bkklaoembassy.com Malaysia 33-35 South Sathorn Rd | 026296800 | ww.kin.gov.my/perwakilan/ bangkok Myanmar 132 North Sathorn Rd | 02233-2237, 02-234-4698, 02-234-4789 | mebkk@asianet.co.th New Zealand M Thai Tower, 14F All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu Rd | 02-254-2530 | www.nzembassy.com Philippines 760 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-259-0139/40 | www.philembassybangkok.net Singapore 129 South Sathorn Rd | 02-286-2111 United Kingdom 1031 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-8333 | www.ukinthailand. fco.gov.uk U.S.A. 120-122 Witthayu Rd | 02205-4000; www.usa.or.th/embassy Vietnam 83/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-251-5836 TRANSPORT PLANE Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Airport Call Centre 02-132-1888 Bangkok Airways 02-265-5555 | www.bangkokair.com Air Asia Suvarnabhumi International Airport A1-062 FG, Concourse A | 02-5159999 | www.airasia.com Thai Airways Int’l Suvarnabhumi International Airport F4, Row F | 02-356-1111 | www.thaiair.com TRAIN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 reference

contacts

Hua Lamphong

SKYTRAIN/SUBWAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-612-2444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BUS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mor Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai)

Surfing BKK There’s a million websites out there, all desperate for a good quick click – but these are the only ones we would take home to meet our mum. n www.1stopbangkok.com Everything you wanted to know about Bangkok but were afraid to ask. n www.thaivisa.com General, boring, immigration type stuff and an entertaining messageboard. n www.bangkokartmap.com Find out where the pretty pictures and free wine’s at. n www.paknamweb.com Blogs, blogs and more blogs. Everything from the Thai lottery to sizzling streetfood. n www.movieseer.com Popcorn? Check. Emergency sweater? Check. Showtimes? Check here! 119

Reference

getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options.

also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the public taxi queue outside the terminal, a B50 surcharge is added to the metered fare. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers. MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle 120

taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-23 Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS reference

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.24) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance. Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3. CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B8 to B18. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. bangkok 101