Bangkok 101 - December 2010 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

Enjoy a rich spread of seasonal European, Tai-Yai, Lanna, Myanmar and Thai delicacies, with free flowing wines, beers and soft drinks served in a traditional buffet setting, ‘Kad Khong Kin’ to the accompaniment of traditional and modern live music and performance throughout the night from 6.30p.m. til late on the 31st December 2010.

t h r o u g h t siam: h e edays y e s ofo fglory his kingdom

New Year at Rachamankha

An all inclusive price of just 3,200THB. For more details and to book tickets please call 053 – 904111 or email sales@rachamankha.com Early booking strongly recommended as tickets strictly limited.

december 2010

6 Rachamankha 9,T.Phra Singh Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand Phone 66-0-5390-4111 Fax 66-0-5390-4114 r E-mail : reservations@rachamankha.com r www.rachamankha.com

december 2010 100 baht

Siam Days of Glory

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Free valet Free service valet service available. available. Now open Now daily openfrom daily 5.00 fromp.m. 5.00to p.m. 1.00 toa.m. 1.00 a.m. NIUʼS ON SILOM NIUʼS ON JAZZSILOM BLUESJAZZ CLUB BLUES AND CLUB RESTAURANT AND RESTAURANT CO., LTD. CO., LTD. 661 Floor 1661 - 2 Silom Floor 1Road - 2 Silom between Road Silom between Soi 17Silom and Soi 19, 17 Silom, and 19, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok Bangrak,10500 Bangkok 10500 Tel : 02266-5333-4 Tel : 02266-5333-4 Fax : 0-2266-5335 Fax : 0-2266-5335 Email : reservation@niusonsilom.com Email : reservation@niusonsilom.com www.niusonsilom.com www.niusonsilom.com

publisher’s

letter

december 2010

Christmas in Bangkok. Okay, so admittedly it hasn’t got quite the same ring to it as Christmas in Paris, Lapland or New York. And it is a tad strange seeing plastic reindeer, costumed Santas and fake snow in a city where, for most of us, it’s still shorts and T-shirts weather. But even if Christmas season here in the City of Angels does seem at best bizarre, at worst a moneymaking tack-on, that’s not to say it ain’t fun, as a big chunk of Bangkok’s sanuk-loving populace embraces it with gusto. Then there are the New Year celebrations that quickly follow, the third of the year in Thailand after the Chinese and Thai New Years. As usual, the city’s main countdown point will be the plaza in front of CentralWorld mall, but if you’d rather avoid the thronged streets, most fine hotels and restaurants will offer special menus and some fine spectacle (p.63). These aren’t the only reasons December is our favourite month. ‘Tis also the season of beer gardens (p.13) and al fresco restaurants (p.69). More importantly, before the pagan festivities kick in, the Kingdom celebrates the birthday of its much-revered ruler, King Bhumipol Adulyadej, on December 5. This national holiday, also Father’s Day, sees ecstatic Thais donning yellow shirts flocking to the Old City’s Sanam Luang in the hope of catching a glimpse of the world’s longest reigning monarch. Our photofeature this month, from the book Siam: Days of Glory, resonates with this most holiest of Thai birthdays, as it is itself a tribute to one of the reigning King’s muchloved forefathers: King Chulalongkorn. If you enjoy the feature, pick up the book from your local bookstore, either for yourself or as a nostalgic, sepia-toned Christmas present. As our Metrobeat section (p.13) shows, there’s a ton to do in the city this month, but if you’re keen to escape all the holiday hullabaloo, why not instead get out of town. In this issue, we lay on a few choices: from a trip to Kaeng Kachan National Park; to our featured Island Escape, Ko Samed; to the faded gallic charms of Saigon. Finally, we’ve done some home-improvements in preparation for the New Year. Namely, our restaurant reviews are more in-depth than ever, and we’ve also welcomed a new rs monthly music column to the 101 fold. Penned by two 101 cate Bangkok n what they , d se ia b leftfield Thai music DJs, ‘Paradise Found’ will join the a un ent and r more th er Independ rs who yearn fo s. It brings togeth , obscure dots in Thailand’s rich musical history (and lle k rs e o v te o a b ri tr e w y , id v u ts v g n also give us a regular excuse to run gratuitous shots of to sa ty, dated ho of city reside he result h ig e w find in tors. T ho’s w deliriously camp and colourful old record sleeve art). ommenta ritative w travel an autho ers and cultural c brid of monthly Merry Christmas, one and all. y h h p off the t ra n d g

What i1s01? Bangkok

Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

photo intellige u on an pact and ine that takes yo employs the is a com z a 1 g 0 a 1 o m k d city ut and n Bangko guide an ff, no sm st track. u ri fl u t. o h to g n u rn h e bo well-wo al standards, wit cannot b ders, ditori content rea r u o n highest e ls. Our editorial o focus a e ri th to r in e su ta v n e re ad ain rously m ing mission is to ch We rigo u o g m n s o and our y this great city a . jo it n e in y g the ve livin as we lo

contributors Athada Khoman

Thai businessman Athada Khoman obtained a bachelors degree in marketing from B a n g k o k ’s A s s u m p t i o n University, and completed his studies at the University of California, Berkeley. An avid collector of 19th centur y antiques, he was inspired to produce new coffee table book Siam: Days of Glory (see this month’s photofeature on p.44), as a tribute to his ancestors, namely the Bunnags: a family who faithfully served the Royal Court during Siam’s Fifth Reign.

Philip Cornwel-Smith

Ver y Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s brave new wave of textiles and furniture in Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and current affairs for the New York Times, Art Asia-Pacific and Forbes. A former resident of NYC and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

Dave Stamboulis

Publisher Mason Florence

Steven Pettifor

Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M. Tivayanond Associate Publisher Parinya Krit-Hat Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Deputy Editor Simon Ostheimer Designer Narong Srisaiya Jarmmaree Janjaturonrasamee Editorial Assistant Piyakwan Mettaprasert Pattarasuda Prajittanond Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger

Greek-born but Californiar aised, Dave Stamboulis resides in Bangkok where he wor ks for numerous magazines, newspapers and stock agencies as a freelance photojournalist. His quest for stories and images has taken him to Borneo, Ethiopia, Bolivia, and other way out locations, often via bicycle, kayak, or on foot. His travel book, Odysseus’ Last Stand: Chronicles of a Bicycle Nomad, received the Silver Medal from the Society of American Travel Writers in 2006.

British-born writer-ar tist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentar y scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration and GM.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinar y fame . She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the nightout culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia. com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit, TAT Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Erika Teo Sales & Marketing Manager Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Pradchya Kanmanee Nuntila Sompoo Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2010. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents

december 2010

snapshots 10 12 13 16 18 19 20 21

101 picks events calendar metro beat now opening: mansion 7 history chronicle of thailand customs very thai: taxi altars

sightseeing 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 30 32 33 34 36 37 38 39 40 42 44

orientation riverside route101: rattanakosin route101: chinatown route101: charoen krung route101: sam phraeng route101: pathumwan siam and pratunam temples historic buildings kids in the city & shrines museums the great outdoors what next? national parks: kaeng krachan upcountry festivals island escape: koh samed over the border: saigon photo feature: siam days of glory

on the cover: King Rama V in regal pose

arts 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

contemporary art exhibitions performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening paradise found

table of

contents

december 2010

courses & services

118 cooking, meditation & thai massage, courses 119 making merit

reference 67

120 getting around

food & drink 62 63 64 65 66 67 72 74 78 79 80 81 82

dining in bangkok meal deals thai cuisine thai sweets street eats featured restaurant neighbourhood nosh: sukhumvit soi 31 thai restaurants brunching all you can eat sweet treats late dining wine

nightlife 84 86 88 90 92 94 96 98 100

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars bars jazz clubs live music nightlife areas pub crawling

shopping 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109

unique boutique stuff shopping tips bangkok design mall crawl chatuchak market markets sidewalks

accommodation 110 boutique bangkok

health & wellness 112 113 114 115

body & beauty spas wellness centres medical tourism

110

sports

116 spectator sports 117 active sports

119

Snapshots

101 picks

Before rushing off to a tropical island in the Gulf of Thailand or the green mountains of Chiang Rai, scratch beneath Bangkok’s gritty surface to uncover these shining gems that’ll keep you here longer.

shopping

thai style

dining

open air

nightlife

■ Chatuchak A huge, sprawling village of a market that sells everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.107).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds and fish, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.119).

■ Sunday Brunch Make like the Thais do, and spend your Sunday by lazing around with friends and enjoying a late breakfast (p.78).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a zoo and the historic Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous green gardens (p.32).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day, party all night and never grow old. The City of Angels has a night out to suit everyone (p.84-97).

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar This pleasant evening market is full of arts, crafts, textiles, and a large Chang beer garden (p.108).

■ Thai Massage Though your body will thank you for it later, expect to be stretched to the limit by eager masseuses (p.118).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Then these shopping mall stalls make for an excellent alternative.

■ River Boats See a different side of Bangkok and take a boat up north to Nonthaburi or explore the Thonburi canals (p.23).

■ Cabarets With performers that ooze grace, poise, and, ahem, Adam’s apples, you won’t see a better show in town (p.85).

■ Siam Square Bangkok’s young and hip gather at this cradle of cool to watch the latest flicks, and pick up stylish threads (p.106).

■ Thai Cooking Learn how to pound paste like a professional at one of the many Thai cooking classes held around town (p.118).

■ River Dining With plenty of restaurants lining its banks, the Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome dinner backdrop. (p.75).

■ Cycling Tour Although unexpected, touring by bike can be one of the best ways to explore Bangkok and its surroundings (p.116).

■ Sky-high Drinks Become a high-flier for the night and enjoy a cocktail while looking down on the glittering Bangkok skyline (p.88).

■ Patpong Always busy, this small strip in the CBD is packed with market stalls and go-go bars (p.109).

■ Thai Boxing Place your bets and watch the brutal yet noble art of Muay Thai, or kickboxing (p.116).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of these special offers to eat at the city’s best restaurants (p.63).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the fun museum park of Muang Boran and see Thailand in miniature (p.34).

■ Dining Cruises Enjoy a fine meal and even better views as you gently travel along the Chao Phraya (p.75).

■ Panthip Plaza Without doubt this is the ultimate computer geek mecca. If you can’t find it here, you haven’t looked hard enough (p.106).

■ TCDC Often hosting workshops and talks, the Thailand Creative & Design Centre fosters Thai designers (p.57).

■ Street Food Order up a dish, sit down on a plastic stool and prepare to taste the core ingredients of Bangkok life (p.66).

■ Lumpini Park This huge green space in the heart of the city. is perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the several lakes (p.32).

■ Twist & Shout Whether you get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11, there’s a dancefloor for you (p.98-99).

■ Siam Paragon This mall is probably one of the swishest you’ll ever visit. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be on the third floor (p.106).

■ The Jim Thompson House This former CIA spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade from scratch, then disappeared. (p.32).

■ Affordable Gourmet Dining If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, the city has plenty of affordable fine dining (p.74).

■ Flower Market Located close to the river, this magical 24-hour market offers much more than just fragrant surrounds (p.108).

■ Thai Theatre TraditionalThai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.56).

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bangkok 101

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Snapshots

december calendar Dec 1-12: 27th Thailand International Motor Expo 2010 Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani | 02-8335061| www.motorexpo. co.th | B100

Dec 2: Trooping of the Colour Royal Plaza Dusit

See Metrobeat ‘Events’

Dec 4: Oishi J-Rock Hitz Fest 2010

Dec 8: Trio Jazz Concert with Manu Codjia

Central World Garden | 02-262-3800 | www. oishidrink.com |Free

Alliance Fraincaise, Sathorn Tai Rd. | 02-6704231 | www.alliancefranciase.or.th | B250 students/members, B400 public

See Metrobeat ‘Pop & Rock’

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’ Dec 11-12: 18 Monkeys Patravadi Theatre, Arunamarin Rd. |02-833555| www.totalreservation. com, www.patravaditheatre. com | B600-B1,000

A contemporary dance troupe’s take on an old Ramakien tale about Rama’s monkey soldier.

Dec 13: Death and the maiden and Savitri Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Rd. | 02-247-0028 | www. thailandculturalcenter.com | B600

See Metrobeat ‘Opera’

Dec 4: Madame Tussaud

Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani |02-8334455| www.impact.co.th | free 1,100 booths of ideal gifts (though no one’s going to complain if you treat yourself).

Siam Discovery Centre, 6th floor | 02-345-2345 | www.madametussauds. com /Bangkok | adults B700, children B500

See Metrobeat ‘Openings’

The Living Room, Sheraton Grande Hotel, Sukhumvit Rd.| 02-649-8640 | www. luxurycollection.com/ bangkok

Dec 8: Vivaldi’s Gloria

Dec:9-12: Bonjour French Fair 2010

Dec 10-12: International Street Show in Bangkok

QSNCC| 02-229-3000| www.qsncc.com Discount Gallic goodies galore: wine, food, cosmetics, fashion, leather and more.

Lumpini Park | www. bangkokstreetshow.com | Free

Dec 16-17: Carmen

Dec 17: Q Bar 11th anniversary

Christ Church, Convent Rd, Sathorn | 081828-4904| www. bangkokmusicsociety.org | B600

See Metrobeat ‘Classical’

Dec 14-16: Art Square # 8

Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Rd. | 02-247-0028 | www. thailandculturalcenter.com | B500-B3,000

Jamjuree Art Gallery | 02-218-3709 | www. jamjureeartgallery. blogspot.com | An art market where you can shop for creative whatnots, and watch free performances.

See Metrobeat ‘Opera’

Dec 17: Neuter Lover

Dec 17-19: Paradigm Paradise

Dec 18: Bangkok Decembery

Dec 19: Patrizio Buanne

Nospace, 21/108 Block D, RCA | 02-6414040| www.nospacebkk.com | starts 10pm Ambient shoegaze music at one of the city’s coolest art spaces.

Patravadi Theatre, Arun Amarin Rd. | 02-833-5555| www. totalreservation.com |B600

King Rama V Monument | 02-262-3456 | www. thaiticketmajor.com | B1,500

Chatrium Hotel | 02307-8888 | www. chatrium.com | B1,500B3,500

Dec 31: Hands Bangkok Countdown

Until Jan 9: Spirits: Creativities From Beyond

Until Jan 9: The First Lady of Jazz - Alice Day

Until Jan 19: Motorcycle Station

Central World Plaza

See Metrobeat ‘Events’

See Metrobeat ‘Theatre’

TCDC, Emporium Department Store | 02-6648448 | www.tcdc.or.th | free

See Metrobeat ‘Exhibitions’

Until Dec 4: Alan Barnes & Jeremy Monteiro Trio

Dec 3-12: New Year Gift 2011

See Metrobeat ‘Festivals’

The Living Room, Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit | 02-649-8353 | www. eatdrinkandmore.com/ bangkok

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

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See Metrobeat ‘Pop & Rock’

BACC | 02-214-6630-8 | http://museumserve. blogspot.com

See Metrobeat ‘Art’

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

See Metrobeat ‘Events’

Q Bar, Sukhumvit 11 | 02-252-3274 | www. qbarbangkok.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Dec 26: Thai Dancing Art Festival The National Theatre, Phranakorn | 02224-1342 | www. thaiticketmajor.com | B700-B1,800 A day of traditional Thai dance performances.

Trade Fairs Performance Live Music Shopping Festivals/Events Food & Drink exhibition Sport Nightlife

bangkok 101

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings. By Howard Richardson

Events

Nightlife

In the Trooping of the Colour at Royal Plaza Dusit on December 2, members of the Royal Guards dressed in full regalia pledge allegiance to the monarchy in a colourful parade past the royal family. Three days later, Thailand celebrates the King’s Birthday, when the streets around Ratchadamnoen Avenue and the Grand Palace are decked in royal regalia and fairy lights. Sanam Luang, the royal ceremonial fields, will also hold a cultural festival to mark the occasion. HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who will be 84 years old, ascended the throne in 1946, and is the world’s longest reigning monarch. December 5 is also Thai Father’s Day. Buskers will be out in force for the International Street Show in Bangkok, held in Lumpini Park from December 10-12. Street performers from around the world, either walking around the park or performing on one of several stages, will include mime artists, clowns, acrobats, contortionists and sword swallowers. Shows run from 3pm-9pm. Entrance free. Nearly 40 car marques, including Bentley, Ferrari, Peugeot and Porsche, drive into the Thailand International Motor Expo at Impact Arena (02833-5061) from December 1-12. Stunt drivers will also be on show, along with vintage cars, racing cars and safe driving courses (Bangkok needs you). More information is available at 02-530-3218. Many Bangkokians will ring in the New Year at C e n t r a l Wo r ld ’s Hands Bangkok Countdown on December 31. Expect a beer garden atmosphere with several stages, bands, fireworks and lots of party games.

Events

bangkok 101

metro beat

On December 17, Q Bar turns it all the way up to celebrate its 11th anniversary. Looking back over 11 thrilling years of business, owners David Jacobson and Andrew Clark have much to celebrate in 2011, including creating one of the world’s best bars and clubs. On the night, look out for the launch of their new Grey Goose Vodka Bar, phone applications and more surprises. As Spinal Tap’s Nigel Tufnel once said, this party promises to be “one louder.” DJ Chuckie – a pioneer of the ‘dirty dutch’ house sound – rolls up at Soi 11’s Bed Supperclub (02-6513537) on Dec 13, heading up a big month of imported party vibes. On Dec 16, US house hitmaker Roger Sanchez spins; on Dec 17, UK breakbeat heroes, the Plump DJs, pop in; and on Dec 23, Grammy awardwinning house act Dirty Vegas will deliver a live show.

Events

Outdoors Pop-up beer gardens are a big draw here in December, as punters rush outside to enjoy the winter season chill. CentralWorld Plaza will be thronged with them, all of them helmed by the major beer brands and bringing in top local bands in an effort to outdo each other. Last year’s talk-of-the-town, Heineken’s Greenspace, will also be at six locations, including Sukhumvit Soi 26’s K Village and Ratchada Road’s Esplanade (book seats at www.i-greenspace.com). Another pleasant option: Federbrau’s rooftop garden at La Villa lifestyle mall, beside BTS Soi Ari station.

Theatre From December 17-19 the Patravadi Theatre presents Paradigm Paradise, an auto-biographical story performed solo through contemporary dance and drama performance by Sonoko Prow, the well-known Thai actor, butoh artist, and founder of Khandha Arts.

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Snapshots

Pop & Rock

Opera Opera Siam International and the Bangkok Opera Foundation present a double bill of Schubert’s Death and the Maiden and Holst’s Savitri at the Thailand Cultural Centre on December 13. In the first half, Thailand’s Shounen-Thai Quartet perform Death and the Maiden. The second half will need no introduction to Thai audiences, as the story of Savitri, the Indian Queen who defied the God of Death to save her husband’s life, is taught in Thai schools. Barbara Zion plays Savitri. Tickets are B600. On December 16 and 17 at the Thailand Cultural Centre, Bangkok Opera/Opera Siam open their tenth season with a production of Bizet’s Carmen, the story of a wild gypsy girl, a straight-laced soldier, and a charismatic bullfighter. British director Darren Royston, who also handles choreography, has interpreted the work with a Mexican-theme, and Mexican mezzosoprano Grace Echauri takes the leading role. Support comes from Todd Geer, Nancy Yuen and Stefan Sanchez, while Somtow Sucharitkul conducts the Siam Orpheus Choir and Siam Philharmonic Orchestra. Performances are at 7.30pm. Tickets are B500-B3,000.

Festivals Get ready kids: the annual Decembery music fest takes place on December 18. With a stellar line-up of DJs and famous Thai artists such as Hydra, Tata Young, Am Saowaluk and the headline act are The Ting Tings, the British duo best known for hits such as ‘That’s Not My Name’, and ‘We Walk’. Tickets cost B1,500, and the music takes place from 5pm-1am at King Rama V Monument. From December 18-25, the first Bangk(zero)k Festival will bring Asian and European artists together for a week of alternative dance, music, performance and exhibitions at various city spaces, including Toot Yung Gallery, BKK Art House, WTF, the Alliance Francaise, and one of Bangkok’s half-built ghost buildings (for more information visit www.desoriental.net).

Events

Japanese rock bands SuG and Vivid headline the Oishi J-Rock Hitz Fest 2010 at Central World Garden on December 4, along with LM.C stars Maya (vocals) and Aiji (guitar), who are famous for their hit song from the popular animation Katekyo Hitman Reborn. Given J-Pop’s huge Thai following, the gig should be packed, especially as there is no entrance fee. There are full details at www.oishidrink.com. Italian baritone Patrizio Buanne, who recorded ‘Stand Up! (Champions Thewwme)’, the official match day song at the 2006 FIFA World Cup in Germany, sings at the Chatrium Hotel (02-307-8888) on December 19. His debut album, The Italian, charted in the UK, and sold double platinum in Australia. Tickets are B1,500-B3,500.

Art A photographic exhibition called Rupture: Cause and Effect explores Thailand’s recent political upheavals until January 9 at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. The artists are Thailand’s Manit Sriwanichpoom, who has exhibited around the world, including the Venice Biennale; the award-winning German photographer and filmmaker Wolfgang Bellwinkel; award-winning French photojournalist Agnes Dherbeys; Piyatat Hemmatat, the owner of Bangkok’s RMA Institute; and the award winning Sino-British photographer Olivier Pin-Fat, who also curates the show. The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre is also the venue for Motorcycle Station until January 19, presenting the work of nine artists displayed on motorcycle jackets. For more information visit museumserve.blogspot. com/p/blog-page_4908.html.

CLASSICAL The Bangkok Music Society kicks off an early Christmas with Vivaldi’s Gloria and Sing-along Carols at Christ Church, Convent Road on December 8. The Bangkok Music Society Choir, featuring Catherine Sam Harsono (soprano) and Manasnun Aksornteang (mezzo soprano), will set the tempo and the audience joins in. Entrance is B600. Online reservations are available at www.bangkokmusicsociety.org or call 081 828 4904.

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bangkok 101

Food & drink

Jazz British saxophonist Alan Barnes joins The Jeremy Monteiro Trio at the Living Room, in the Sheraton Grande Hotel (02-649-8640) until December 4. Barnes has performed with a raft of grandees, including Don Weller, Stan Tracey, Bjork and Van Morrison. Thereafter, American singer Alice Day takes the Living Room stage, backed by the Shawn Kelley Trio and pianist David Gomes, until January 9. French guitarist Manu Codjia brings his trio to the Alliance Francaise (02-670-4231) on December 8, with Philippe Garcia (drums) and Jerome Regard (double bass). Tickets are B400. For further information see www.alliance-francaise.or.th.

Exhibitions Due to popular demand, the subtly spooky Spirits: Creativities From Beyond exhibition, at the Thailand Creative and Design Centre (www. tcdc.or.th, 02-664-8448), has had its run extended. Now you can learn how the Thai creative industries cash in on the country’s belief in ghosts until January 9. The show is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10:30am-9pm; admission free.

OPENInGS Bangkok welcomes Southeast Asia’s first branch of Madame Tussaud’s on December 4, when queues will form at the 6th floor of Siam Discovery Centre for a waxwork glimpse of international stars such as Princess Diana, Michael Jackson and Angelina Jolie. Local names like pop singer Tata Young, screen legend Mitr Chaibancha and celebrity pathologist Porntip Rojanasunan will be equally popular. Admission is B700, B500/children. For more details visit www. madametussauds.com/bangkok. bangkok 101

The Horse Says Moooo

Chef Johnny Liu left Minibar Royale this year to launch The Horse Says Moooo, a name based on the Chinese birth signs of the owners – horse and pig (or moo, in Thai). Like the name, it’s a restaurant of contradictions. An unassuming café leads upstairs to serious-dining candlelight, velvet seats and mini chandeliers. A bar and low bare-wood tables lend informality. The garlic bread – milky, sweet, under-heated, and with too little garlic – preludes a surprisingly good wandering European menu of pastas and risottos, British home cooking, French stalwarts and trickles of Asian influence. Starters include WHERE Nuam Complex, an impressive, well Sukhumvit Soi 33, caramelised onion soup, with tasty stock; and a 02-662-0402 warm squid salad, riskily OPEN Mon-Fri 11amserved super oily (picky midnight, Sat-Sun 10.30ameaters may shudder at midnight the texture), but with PRICE $$-$$$ deep and interesting flavours: lots of garlic, paprika and cayenne, and a light smoky waft. It was enjoyable, despite the limp, dressed-too-early salad. For mains, Ozzie tenderloin, crusted with peppercor ns, perfectly-cooked medium rare, and lamb rack, nicely charred outside, juicy pink in the middle, and tingling with a chillied salsa verde, were both excellent. There are missteps here, including too relaxed service, but overall The Horse has strengths – maybe not enough to gallop across town for, but this is very decent grazing in the area.

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เดอะ ฮอร์ส เซย์ส มู สุขุมวิท ซ.33 15

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new opening

rive down Bangkok’s Ratchadapisek Road, a neon entertainment district and main artery into the city, these days and you’ll spot a long, dimly lit building with a blue gothic forest exterior. “Is one of its mammoth massage parlours trying to save on electricity?”, you’d be forgiven for asking, “or has Tim Burton branched out into the hotel business?” In fact, believe it or not folks, neither is the case: Mansion 7 it turns out is a new, multi-million baht boutique shopping complex designed to give you the heebie-jeebies while you shop and snack. Dreamt up by Pattara Sahawatra, the brains behind Hua Hin’s faux-vintage market Plearn Wan, the main draw of this vast flight of fancy is, on the face of it, its franchise-free shopping. There are twenty or so cute little boutiques here, from spunky fashion start-ups like Secret Weapon, a handbag shop owned by foxy Thai actress Cris Horwang, to kinky accessory store The Hidden Closet and magic gadget shop Gimmick. Originally we came just to scope these out, but, somewhere between calmly entering its giant hall via an evil claw doorway and sprinting out of the big haunted house at the far end of it, it became clear that Mansion 7 takes its scares as seriously as it’s shopping. Instead of the polished marble and bright strip lighting found in most malls, the concrete floors here are drizzled with (fake?) blood and lit by wan blue lighting, turning daytime into nighttime. While the girlfriend shops for a studded dog collar or some sexy tiger-print lingerie, the boyfriend and his buddies can play on zig-zag pool tables seemingly imported from a parallel universe with its own laws of physics. Or, at the industrial-chic Cocktail Bar, sip on signature tipples prepped by bottle-juggling bartenders while hundreds of gnomes, arranged on conveyor belt factory lines up one wall, look on (the more you drink, the more sinister they get). Even the food served at the 15 or so restaurants is occasionally of the unsettling kind, with black khanom jeen noodles and blood-group customized som tum on offer. Topping off Mansion 7, just the sort of spooky place where The Munsters or Cullen family might hang out on weekends, is its showpiece: the “Dark Mansion” that sits at the complex’s rear, looking every inch the feverish, Victorian Gothic nightmare. Now, it’d be a shame to ruin the surprises, but let’s just say we entered grinning in anticipation of the camp frights to come (fanged men in capes, etc) and emerged 15 minutes later shaken, about as white as the building’s ashen façade. Centred around the story of Lord Ratchada and the death of his daughter, it employs much blind claustrophobia and film set-like smoke and mirrors to scare the bejesus out of you. None of this seems very Thai at all, until you remember that being scared by spooks is something this nation enjoys almost as much as it does, well, shopping. We have reservations about its long-term appeal (namely, will people come here postfright?), but for now Mansion 7 is a fun place to enjoy both – a mall to make your hair stand on end, as well as burn a small hole in your wallet. Where Ratchada Road (mouth of Ratchada Soi 14) | 02-692-6311 | MRT Huay Kwang | www.themansion7.com Open 12pm-12am Sun-Thurs, 12pm-2am Fri-Sat Price free entry to mall, Dark Mansion: B150 12pm-5pm, B180 other times

Mansion 7

Where Mall meets House of Horrors

แมนชั่น 7 ถ.รัชดา ซ.14

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bangkok 101

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history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments at that time, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with the usual array of gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lines of snarled traffic.The core of the new city encompasses the

Sathorn/Silom districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas, leafy public parks and vibrant bar and restaurant scenes.These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. The gradually-

expanding public transportation networks, with their bright, snaking trains carrying wide-eyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped to relieve the city’s traffic congestion, but also given the City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ (a name used mainly by foreigners), and instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It’s no surprise The Guinness Book of Records has registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

5 December 1999: Bangkok residents welcome the first skytrain

chronicle of thailand

he country’s first elevated rail system went into service after a last minute rush at stations to put final touches to platforms and service areas. However, problems emerged almost immediately at stations along the new SkyTrain routes. Many ticket machines failed to operate properly and out-of-order signs began sprouting up. Queues were long, forcing some passengers to wait for up to an hour as they had to buy tickets issued manually by SkyTrain staff. The crowds were worst at the stations of Mo Chit, the main depot, and Siam Square, which linked the system’s two lines. ‘Some people failed to read the instructions on our ticket machines,’ said Sivapron Pokpong, BTS marketing manager. ‘People must press a button to select their destination first, and then insert coins. But some inserted the coins first and that stopped the machines, and the passengers simply lost their money.’ Someone managed to insert 40 one-baht coins in a machine, she said. For those who lived and worked along the SkyTrain route, the new rail system was a godsend that offered an alternative to crowded buses that crept through the city’s snarling traffic.. The SkyTrain opened with two lines, the Sukhumvit line, which crosses the city from north to south, from Mo Chit to Onnuj, and the Silom line, which goes through the city centre. The network, with 23.5km of track, was built at a cost of around 60 billion baht. Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. Every month in Bangkok 101, we serialise a major news story that sheds light on this month in the history of the Kingdom. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books | B1,450 | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | www.chronicleofthailand.com bangkok 101

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Marble Temple

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour while here, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king, and have deep reverence for the monarchy. in general. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly and still when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and many other public places. Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 20

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Unless meeting foreigners, Thais don’t shake hands but instead wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows humility. The higher the hands are raised, the more respect being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred in Thailand, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ Dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ Remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ Don’t step on the threshold ■ Don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ Avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ Be considerate when taking photographs inside the grounds ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to contact women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

Taxi altars: The colourful world of spiritual road insurance

very thai

Photos by John Goss, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Paisarn Piemmattawat

oreigners riding a taxi take an inadvertent tour through the byways of Thai culture. A wheel determines this path, though it’s not the steering wheel, but the Buddhist wheel of fortune. And the driver is on auto-pilot, otherwise known as karma. Taking on board a stranger’s karma throws the driver’s fate awry. To cover eventualities, spirit offerings in a taxi tend to end up greater than in a private car, like the public transport premium on motor insurance. “There are two different ways to go about avoiding death on Bangkok streets,” Philip Blenkinsop observes in The Cars That Ate Bangkok: “Pok pong, being magic or spiritual protection to guard against all perils, and pong gun, steps taken to prevent accidents such as the wearing of seat-belts and helmets. Not surprisingly, pong gun takes a back seat to pok pong.” Culturally the taxi is still a boat. The steering column doubles as the prow, the vehicle’s sacred ‘head’ where offerings go. Since Thai culture is aquatic, the ribboned garland looped around the taxi mirror honours Mae Yanang, the protective spirit of the boat, and by extension, any kind of vehicle: car, motorcycle, bus, tuk-tuk, train or plane. Blessed by a monk at an auspicious date and time, the taxi cabin accumulates layers of propitious paraphernalia. The inaugural blessing – gold leaf and daubed powder, topped by the unalom (a looping, flamelike flourish from the Buddha’s forehead) – may last for years on the ceiling above the handbrake. From the sun visors rearward, the faces of kings, monks and deities gaze benevolently down upon driver and passenger, while others paste up news clippings, foreign banknotes, or snapshots of their family and youthful exploits. If that weren’t reassuring enough, more such faces festoon the windscreen, sharing pane-space with stickers of bodhi leaves or faux banknotes bearing a venerable monk’s face. Bronze or plaster images of monks, the Buddha or Kings Rama V and IX sit on the dashboard or dangle from the rearview mirror, in a red and gold plastic case trailing a red tassel. As the taxi is a sales space, you may also find common trade talismans like bottle gourds, fish traps or palad khik.

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any goodbook shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith

bangkok 101

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Sightseeing

orientation

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Siam Square & Pratunam

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city – steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is the face of modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan (p.24) is

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries, and which all have different, intriguing tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.20) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly of the

where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting suburbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the affordable Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are much better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked Bangkok streets in fridge-cool comfort. When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along pungent Klong Saen Saeb (p.120) and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.26), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly. In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

bangkok 101

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on. The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which courses a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables click on to www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13: Phra Athit Bangkoks young bohemian types pensively sip coffee in the many cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street.There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

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N15: Thewet Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

N9: Tha Chang Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

Amulet Market

N15

VIII

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Chinatown

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Saphan Taksin The hotel pier here is accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to the Millenium Hilton, Mandarin Oriental, Peninsula and Marriot. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

N1: Oriental The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

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N6: Memorial Bridge/ Saphan Pood Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

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N2: Sri Phaya On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

N8: Tha Tien Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.26) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

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N10: Wang Lang Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.54) are all in the vicinity.

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sightseeing

Sightseeing

Rattanakosin

route 101 Whether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

elcome to Rattanakosin Island: birthplace of modern Bangkok and spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Rows of peeling old shophouses and glittering temple complexes – all gently curving roofs and soaring spires – pepper this hallowed area hemmed in by a bendy stretch of the Chao Phraya River and man-made canals. Start off at Wat Arun (p.26), also known as the Temple of Dawn. Though it actually predates the Rattanakosin era, it’s a cornerstone of Thai history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin ad

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then, once at the river, jump on an express boat heading right, upriver (ask someone to point one out). Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its soaring central Khmer-style spire, is easy to spot. After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross back to Tha Tien pier and make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.27). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles deknotted at the famous Thai massage school. Your temple initiation over, now head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.26) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.26). Ignore the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to boggle at the imagination that could give rise to such an ethereal royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.28). Getting into this Thai culture stuff? Then exit and head A^_d Bec 9^ec IWf^Wd north across ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.30). Ph ra Su me Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably nR W oa isu d tK find it is early evening. The rest of your evening is up to you asa tR oa d BANGLAMPHU – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the AWe IWd He WZ d oa n R fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some Ratcha a :[ceYhWYo w damno Sa Cedkc[dj en Klan g Road on kh pad thai noodles with the backpackers on Khao San Road. Back Na Luk Luang Road near Wat Po, cocktail bar Amorosa, with its picture-postcard J^_fiWcW_ views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun, is another failsafe old F>H7 D7A>ED IWe 9^_d] 9^W city walking tour closer. =_Wdj Im_d]

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Renaissance-style train station. Head straight on from Exit 1 and cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap Thai-China Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.27) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex. Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/ impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1

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aowarat, as Chinatown is popularly known locally is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, incenseshrouded Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in those pharmacy windows. And at night Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and on your right you’ll spot Bangkok’s main,

Rd). This narrow wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than Hello Kitty hairclips and schoolbags on offer now. Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonial-style warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.104) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on, there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neonlit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Road will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing air-con cooled restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery like T&K Seafood to give your feet a well-earned rest.

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nce plied by horse carts and rickshaws, this stretch of the city’s oldest Europeanstyle paved road, built in 1860, is now inundated by buses and tuk-tuks. Yet, despite the encroachment of the modern world, the lanes off Charoen Krung remain a treasure trove of flaking colonial-style architecture, bustling street markets, multi-ethnic food, and eclectic places of worship dating back to the early 20th century, when the area was Bangkok’s main hub of foreign commerce. For this walking tour, perfect for a morning or afternoon, start by hopping off the Skytrain at Saphan Taksin station. From here, walk away from the river until you reach Charoen Krung, turn right and head for Wat Yannawa, with its unusual boat-shaped wiharn. The structure was built on the orders of King Rama III (1787-1851), who, as he saw steamships replacing junks, wanted his people to remember the old ships that had brought the kingdom prosperity. Back on Charoen Krung, stop to crane your neck at one of the city’s eeriest reminders of the 1997 Asian

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Financial Crisis – a half-built concrete shell towering 47 storeys high. If its rounded balconies look familiar, that’s because they closely resemble those of the nearby State Tower. Next, turn left and head back the way you came, pass underneath the Skytrain flyover and you’ve arrived in Bang Rak district (trivia: as its name means ‘village of love’, every Valentine’s Day the district office is inundated by hordes of loved-up newlyweds seeking to register their marriages). Just off the main road, Bang Rak Market’s food stalls make for a great snack stop before you venture past the aforementioned State Tower (a 68-floor neo-classical behemoth home to one of the world’s highest open-air restaurants, Sirocco) and seek out the red-brick Assumption Cathedral. Built by French missionaries, it’s one of the finest Catholic churches in Thailand. Exit back onto Soi Oriental and you’re in the old European trading quarter, with its classical Venetian-style leftovers, such as the stately East Asiatic Company building, situated right beside the Tha Oriental river pier. If it’s late sightseeing

afternoon and you’re feeling parched, brush past the doormen of the Mandarin Oriental hotel opposite and make for the all-white, colonial throwback that is the Author’s Lounge, easily the grandest afternoon tea haunt in town. After a soothing spot of cha in the same setting that and Ernest Hemingway, head back out and away from the river, turn left and towards OP Place – a white, gabled, circa 1908 department store turned pricey objet d’art centre – on your right. However, if browsing Buddhist relics of dubious origin, while a haughty hi-so madam looks you up and down, isn’t your bag, continue on and turn left. Here, at the end of a narrow lane, you’ll spot the adorably shabby Old Customs House, which used to be the gateway into Bangkok for foreign merchants long before the rot set in. Currently the Bang Rak fire station, it’s fine to have a nosey around, though a property developer’s sign by the front entrance suggests that may not be the case for much longer. Still some fuel left in your tank? From here, you could continue on to Haroon Village (a tasty little Muslim enclave) or head back onto Charoen Krung and towards the Bangkokian Museum (an early 20th century Thai home frozen in time; p30). Alternatively, catch a tuk-tuk up to Chinatown (p21) or River City shopping centre (p102), where you can browse more antiques, hop on a dinner cruise or catch an express river taxi back to Saphan Taksin pier.

bangkok 101

Sam Phraeng

ust east of the Grand Palace and the stately ministry buildings that flank it sits one of the city’s first business districts, a maze of lanes lined with gracefully ageing shophouses dating back to the King Rama V era. Though Sam Phraeng’s glory days, when Thai Princes and nobility woauld shop here for luxury imported goods, are long behind it this heritage hood ticks along by selling Buddhist related items or yummy Thai snacks made to generations-old recipes. As a result, if you want to get a feel for the Bangkok of yore while stuffing your face silly, it’s a must explore. Come early, really early, and you may even get to see monks on their morning alms rounds. To get here from downtown, be adventurous and catch a spluttering Klong saeng saep canal boat to the end of the line: Saphan Phanfa Pier (see p.120). From here, one could cross the ornate bridge right beside the pier and

take a stroll down Thanon Boriphat, with its buzzing timber-merchant shophouses and pavement coated in fresh sawdust. However, those new to the Old City should begin around the corner at the Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall: a multi-media museum that teaches you all about it, from its birth in 1782 to the craft-specialties of the shophouse communities that survive, with help from the Crown Property Bureau, within it. Next, turn left down Ratcha damneon Road – the city’s Champs D’Elsysee – until you reach the Democracy Monument. Built in 1939, it’s often the site of prodemocracy rallies (though somewhat ironically it was commissioned by a military dictator and it’s design inspired by Italian fascist architecture). Now head south down Thanon Dinso, a leafy lane lined with

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shophouse restaurants, including famous milk-and-toast stop Mont Nom Sod. After mopping up delicious sankaya (Thai custard) with forkfuls of hot toast here, turn right and pass Bangkok City Hall. Here, at the end of the square, you’ll spot the city’s giant swing, or Sao Ching Cha (and the tall, flame-shaped peaks of Wat Suthat, a temple commissioned by King Rama I, behind it). Though the Brahmin swinging ritual it was built for is now banned, it remains one of the city’s most iconic/sacred motifs. From here, head down Bamrung Muang road, past the shophouses selling Buddha statues, incense and other sacred paraphernalia, and turn right onto Tanao Road. Simply put, this is of our favourite parts of town. Known as Sam Phraeng, it consists of three lanes, each named after a Thai prince and lined with Sino-Portuguese style shophouses. There’s more to it than just old-world architecture though: aside from being perhaps the best preserved heritage neighbourhood in the city, this triumvirate teems with old-school Thai food. Our advice: stroll around, admire the painted shutters and ornate wooden fretwork, and, above all, follow your nose into the most mouthwatering kitchen shophouses, many of which have been open for generations. One every visiting travel journo seems to gush about is Chote Chitr on Phraeng Bhuthorn, but, be it Nattaporn’s coconut ice cream, Kor Panich’s sticky rice or Khanom Buang Mae Lamead’s tacolike crepes, you can’t really go wrong. After feasting on celestial Thai food at pauper’s prices, and admiring Phraeng Nara’s old wooden school, Talaphan Suksa, double back on to Tanao Road. Spots on it that may be of passing interest include Phraeng Sappasart’s baroque meets art deco gate, and the squat, incenseshrouded Chinese shrine Chao Pho Sua. At the end of the road there’s also the October 11th Memorial, which commemorates civilians killed during the 1973 pro-democracy rally. 27

Sightseeing

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Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride on Klong Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at ri R

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lthough much of Thailand’s biggest shopping complex CentralWorld was burned to the ground by arsonists at the tail-end of the recent political protests, it has since been re-opened, while the nearby Siam Square and Pratunam areas are still Bangkok shopaholic central. From the chaos of the shop-for all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. And, hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the khlong (canal) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 105), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand.

Jim Thompson’s House (see p.28). Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi. Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the sinuous concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modern-art scene central. Next up is Siam Paragon. This up-scale shopping and entertainment complex houses scores of great dining options, a world-class cinema complex and an impressive array of luxury and high street fashion bands from around the world. On a tight budget? Don’t worry. Every night (except Mondays) after 9pm, the footpaths along Siam Square on Rama I Rd transform into a mini-Chatuchak Weekend Market. Bangkok teenagers and young adults alike war over cheap but trendy T-shirts, jeans, dresses, accessories, brand new (and sometimes secondhand brand named) leather goods like bags, wallets, and shoes. Choose wisely if you opt for secondhand items.

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bangkok 101

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Sightseeing

temples THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | Dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m² royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. Though King Bhumibol now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth seeing, and there are some

Wat Arun

The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

state rooms and halls open to visitors. These include the majestic Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, this forms the north-eastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. After being moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings and then taken by the Lao to Vientiane, Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and placed it at the centre of his new capital. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat

Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature examples of Thai mural art documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced. WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

sightseeing

bangkok 101

The Giant Swing

WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps it takes to get there.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On most weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one of the few temples in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English. Call ahead to book.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT & THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site bangkok 101

for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the wellrespected Maha Makut Buddhist University, the Wat Bowoniwet Vihara temple is important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm | B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are usually brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings, every day. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets sightseeing

is popular in Thailand and many believe that these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and them bringing good fortune in the future. วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-2260369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-9pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also a centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The awe-inspiring 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet. For those in the know, this is a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. 32

sightseeing

bangkok 101

Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume.The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium (see below) located off Sukhumvit. Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Inuit. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones.The city’s parks (see p.32) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.103), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo (p.32) is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World (p.32) is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old. Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which bangkok 101

performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Ganesha Shrine

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-thekids discovery museum, taking in prehistoric Suvarnabhumi, the foundation of Ayutthaya and the country’s modernisation. Design company Story! Inc delivered the content and conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and turgid text with pop graphics and interactive gizmos galore. Among the many edutaining activities, highlights include dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a vibrant touch screen and firing cannonballs at Burmese war-elephants. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the polished teak floors, open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance stylings of this gorgeously 34

Museum of Siam

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM (map B3-4) 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 02-2337027| www.bma.go.th/bmaeng/bangrak | Sat&Sun 10am-5pm | free Bangrak is one of the most traditional districts of the city, bustling with traffic and markets. Smack in the middle of it, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here; the displays can nevertheless be surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and items used in ceremonies. The real highlight is the owner herself who is willing to give you a highly personalised tour (if you call ahead), filled with anecdotes about a city long since vanished.

restored former government building, designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s best-loved resident Italian architect, Mario Tamagno.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก เจริญกรุง ซ.43

Bangkokian Museum

sightseeing

bangkok 101

RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL (map B3) 100 Ratchadamnoen Klong Road, next to Wat Ratchanadda | www.nitasrattanakosin.com | Tues-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | 02624-0044 | adults B200, kids B50 This brand new multimedia museum tackles a part of town we all admire but few understand – Rattanakosin island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Once you’re done oggling the Grand Palace and Wat Po etc, it’s a great place to expand your knowledge of this most hallowed part of the city beyond that pithy paragraph in your guidebook. Wandering its seven rooms – free of relics but rich in dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-to-fathom history, arts, communities and traditions into much clearer focus. Learn about its creation in 1782; ancient royal ceremonies; fine performing arts like lakhon nai (court drama); evolving architectural styles and much more. Also includes an observation balcony with views over the old city.

นิทรรศน์รัตนโกสินทร์ ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง

Oddball Museums Several museums in and around Bangkok delve into Thailand’s wacky and idiosyncratic side. Definitely the most macabre is the Si Quey Forensics Museum, which revels in pickled body parts and cadavers of serial killers. A close second, the Corrections Museum recreates the rough justice meted out to criminals in the not so old days. The Museum of Counterfeit Goods displays Thailand’s best forgeries; as long as you call ahead, you’re welcome. Out on the outskirts, the weekends only House of Museums is a two-storey sprawl of retro curiosities. Meanwhile, it’s safe sex all the way at the Condom Museum, which features numerous stimulating exhibits. Finally, if you’re interested in Thai cinema, walk among old film sets, 16mm cameras, and startlingly real waxworks of local cinema heroes at the entertaining Thai Film Museum. CONDOM MUSEUM Department of Medical Sciences 88/7 Tiwanond Rd.,Talad Kwan, Muang, Nonthaburi | 02-589-5890-8 ext.99955 | Mon-Fri 8.30am-4.30pm | Free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ถงุ ยางอนามัย ถ.ติวานนท์

Corrections Museum 436 Bangkok Remand Prison, Mahachai Rd., Samranrat, Phra Nakhon | Mon-Fri 9am - 4pm | 02-226-1704 | Free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ราชทัณฑ์ เรือนจำเก่า ใกล้กบั สวนรมณีนาถ

House of Museums 170/17 Moo 17 Soi Klong Po 2, Salathammasop Rd.,Taweewattana | 089-666-2008 | http://houseofmuseums.siam.edu | Sat-Sun 10am-5pm | B30

บ้านพิพธิ ภัณฑ์ ซ.คลองโพ 2 ศาลาธรรมสพน์

MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS Supalai Grand Tower Building 26F, Rama III Rd | 02-653-5555 | www.tillekeandgibbins.com | by appointment only | BTS Surasak

พิพิธภัณฑ์สินค้าปลอมและเลียนแบบ ถ.พระราม 3

Si Quey Forensics Museum (‘Siriraj Medical Museum’) 2 Prannok Road, Bangkok Noi | www.si.mahidol.ac.th | 02-419-7000 ext 6363 | Mon-Sat 9am-4pm | B40

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศริ ริ าช ถ.พรานนก

Thai Film Museum 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom| www.nfat.org | 02-4822013-15 | weekday: appointment only, weekend tours: 10am, noon, 3pm | Free

หอภาพยนตร์แห่งชาติ 94 หมู่ 3 ถ.พุทธมณฑลสาย 5

Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

the great outdoors

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

Rama IX Park

CHATUCHAK and QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | sightseeing

02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri 8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

Siam Ocean World (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’reThai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing. สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 bangkok 101

Stood rapt in front of the Grand Palace? Check. Got your neck clicked at Wat Po? Check. Survived the scam artists? Just about. Ok, now you’ve lost your sightseer ‘L’ plates it’s time to explore some less tourist-thronged Bangkok addresses.

what next?

1 For an entertaining and informative bike ride around the parts most tourists never reach, give cycle tour company Spice Roads (www.spiceroads.com) a shout. Alternatively, borrow a bike for free from one of 8 counters scattered around the Old City, courtesy of the Bangkok Metropolitan Association (www.bangkoktourist.com). 2 Volunteering is a great way to give back to this city we all get so much out of. However, don’t know where to look? Well-intentioned expatriative initiative In Search of Sanuk signposts ways you can have plenty of fun, while still helping others (www.insearchofsanuk.com). 3 Already been to Jim Thompson’s to pick up your silk presents for the folks back home? Gorgeous but groaning with tourists? Fortunately it’s not the only stilted teak house oasis in town. Suan Pakkard Palace offers a similarly beguiling set-up off the tourist trail, as does M.R. Kukrit’s House (p.28). Others swear by Amantee (www. amantee.com) out in the northern suburbs.

4 Just across from MBK mall, the Guggenheim-like Bangkok Art & Culture Centre lures in dandyish creative types (and the odd curious shopper) with its mixed-bag line-up of Thai contemporary and itinerant global art. Want to know where the best Thai art is at? Then pop a copy of our Bangkok Art Map into your totebag on your way out (www.bangkokartmap.com).

5 Tour company Smiling Albino (www.smilingalbino. com) offers well thought-out, culturally-attuned excursions in and around the capital. Definitely its most intriguing is its two-day rollick through authentic old neighbourhoods and markets reminiscent of Bangkok circa 1910. 6 Housed in a beautifully restored old government building only five minutes stroll from the famous spires of Wat Po, the Museum of Siam (www.ndmi.or.th) traces the evolution of the Thai people in a funky, hands-on fashion.Touch-screen videos and interactive gizmos galore replace the usual dusty relics you commonly find and stress the country’s multiculturalism and modernisation. 7 Once you’ve got the city is licked, it’s time to see what marvels lurk just outside it. Popular daytrips close to home include Bangkrachao, a lush peninsula of undeveloped land just across from Bangkok’s Klong Toey district; and Ko Kret, a man-made island in the river famous for its snacking, temples and kilns churning out cheap pottery. See Daytrips (p.34) for more details on both. bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

asily Thailand’s most untramelled tourist assests are its national parks, of which there are no less than 116 dotted all around the country. They’re a refreshing escape from breakneck Bangkok life, not to mention the hokey hill-tribe tours and Westerner-thronged (and thonged) beaches that most tourists make a beeline for. In addition to hiking trails through the forest, most offer a host of eco-tourism activities: waterfalls you can splash around in, streams raft upon and campsites snooze under the stars in. There’s one out there for every taste, from marine national parks in the deep south offering great diving amid technicolour corals, to remote forest reserves in the far north blessed with misty mountains, severe rock-scapes and bracing ‘Winter’ temperatures. Debatably the best all-rounder (and definately the most visited and easily accessible) is Khao Yai, a tropical rainforest fringed by wineries, golf courses, cattle ranches and resorts, and only an hour and a half ’s drive northeast of the big smoke. Entry for foreigners usually costs B200, though expatriots with a copy of their work-permit with them pay the same as Thais: B40. www.thaiforestbooking.com has them all covered, even includes a foreigner-friendly bungalow or campsite booking system. Below we spotlight one each month perfect for right about now.

national parks

Kaeng Krachan

When it comes to parks within easy reach of Bangkok, most city slickers head northeast for Korat province’s Khao Yai. However, there is another, less thronged and arguably even more pristine option 123km southwest of the capital: Petchaburi province’s Kaeng Krachan National Park (which at 2,915 sq km is Thailand’s biggest). Bordering a sparsely populated tract of Myanmar, at the northern end of the Malay Peninsula, it’s most conspicuous feature is a vast reservoir, framed by the rolling Tenasserim mountain range. Many visitors are content merely to camp or picnic beside it, or take a leisurely canoe or speedy long-tail across it; others don lifejackets and take to the source river, the Phetchaburi, to enjoy whitewater rafting, rope-bridge walking or a good wallow. However, while you should certainly think about joining them, it’s also worth venturing beyond Kaeng Krachan’s distracting fringes, for the biodiversity of its wild heart is unparalleled in Thailand. Smothered in undisturbed evergreen rainforest, this sanctuary is home to rare mammals, including gibbons, leopards, wild elephants and tigers, as well as every imaginable hue of butterfly and over 350 species of bird. Treks on looping trails through the park are available (book a ranger guide at the Park’s HQ), and a 36km long, intermittently rough road snakes towards the border and it’s many caves, waterfalls, viewpoints and bird and butterfly watching hotspots (note: your average small hire car will struggle in places). There are three campsites to choose from, including a very scenic one beside the reservoir and another atop Phanoen Thung, the park’s 1,207m tall peak located at the road’s 30km mark. Set up camp here between now and February and you can expect teeth-chattering morning temperatures and a sight even more epic than that reservoir – a sea of morning fog swirling below you. Bungalows and independent lodgings on the park’s edges are also available. 38

sightseeing

Contact

Campsite fees payable on arrival. Book a bungalow in advance by logging on to www.dnp.go.th/ parkreserve and clicking through to the dedicated reservation page. For accommodation outside the park, the Kaeng Resort (www.kaengresor t.com) is recommended, offering cheap, comfortable huts beside the Phetchaburi River. Another option: the chalets at Baan Maka (www.baanmaka.com).

bangkok 101

upcountry festivals

Thailand is truly a nation of festivals. Celebrations devoted to one thing or another take place all-year round, in the capital and provinces alike. They are almost always fun, frantic affairs, where visitors are very welcome to join in. This month, don’t limit yourself to just the charms of Bangkok, and instead venture forth to the hinterland. to enjoy of the following festivals, which all display the very best spirit of the nation.

5-11 Dec 11th Nimmanhemin Art and Design Promenade

2-6 Dec Thailand International Balloon Festival 2010

In past years up to 300,000 people have flocked to some of the prettiest spots in the country (Khao Yai in 2008, Ayutthaya in 2009) to see hot air balloons drift up, up, up into the sky. This year the organisers are hoping to attract similar numbers to Nakorn Nayok’s Khundan Dam. To increase their chances, they’re throwing in concerts, a fun fair, fireworks and much, much more. www.thailandballoonfestival.com

4-11 Dec 24th Phuket King’s Cup Regatta

Considered the jewel in the crown of the Asian Yachting Circuit, with action on and off the crest of the wave, this event attracts global yachting souls on magnificent yachts to challenge, celebrate and socialise with the island’s characters. Watch world-class race teams compete on the Andaman Sea; and then party to the fullest at events held all around the island. www.kingscup.com bangkok 101

The shopping up in Chiang Mai is excellent at the best of times, but for this week each year the city ramps it up a notch by turning the area along Nimmanhemin Soi 1 into an exuberant and colourful art shopping street. In addition to market stalls brimming with northern Lanna bijou goodness, there will be also be art exhibitions, music and performances of northern plays. www.nimmansoi1.com

Dec 8 – Jan 1 Tour de Thailand 2010

Thailand’s amateur take on France’s grueling annual bike race offers cyclists the chance to participate in a 1,900km ride from Chiang Mai down to Phuket, all in aid of a very good cause (namely, Operation Smile Thailand, a charity that helps perform reconstructive surgery on childhood facial deformities). Riders can choose to ride the entire 24 day route or partake only in the 13 day northern or 15 day southern legs. Thoughfully, five days of R&R have been included into the schedule, so you actually take in some of the country as opposed to just whizz past it. See www.tourdethailand.com for details.

Dec 10-11 Big Mountain Music Festival

Back by popular demand, this huge, Pepsi-backed music fest up in Korat province is about the closest thing Thailand has to its own Glastonbury, featuring 500 of its best loved bands across six stages and the chance to camp out on the edge of Khao Yai National Park for two balmy winter nights, listening to them. The full line-up and tickets (B1,800) are available at www.thaiticketmajor. com or www.bigmountainmusicfestival.com

13-19 Dec Ayutthaya World Heritage Fair

This annual event remembers the Kingdom of Ayutthaya, a once dominant force in the region and a seat of power for over 400 years. Taking place amid the historic ruins, celebrations include traditional folk culture shows, a mock-Ayutthaya period marketplace (complete with ancient Phot Duang coin currency that you can actually exchange for food and desserts), and a nightly light and sound show at Wat Mahathat temple. Check www.thaiticketmajor.com for information on showtimes. sightseeing

Sightseeing

Island escape Simon Ostheimer

t 8am, we left Bangkok and set course for the sun. Our taxi driver had arrived early, keen to get on the road as soon as possible. He’s a smart man – Bangkok traffic is renowned for its propensity to come to a standstill. As we sped southeast to Chonburi province, and the high-rises of the city gave way to gated compounds and eventually countryside, thoughts turned to our destination: the island of Koh Samed. Measuring just 7km long by 4km wide, Koh Samed (also variously written as Ko Samed, Koh Samet or Ko Samet) is easily reached by a ten minute speedboat ride (30 minutes if you take one of the older ferries) from the small port of Ban Phe. Shaped like a sword scabbard, most of the hotels and resorts are clustered around the northern ‘hilt’ part of the island. Along Koh Samed’s longest beach, Hat Sai Kaeo (it means Crystal Sand Beach), you’ll find a non-stop wall of hotels and hostels, bars and restaurants, souvenir shops and convenience stores. Meanwhile, the 40

Koh Samed Bangkok’s beach playground

northeast side has relatively fewer places to stay, but much more in the way of seclusion – though not as much as the isolated Paradee resort, which all on its own hugs the narrow shore on the southernmost ‘dagger’ portion of the isle – a crooked finger pointing directly south into the Gulf of Thailand. Lastly, there is the small, sheltered bay of Ao Prao on the west coast, where our small party was to be staying for the weekend. Popular with families, the three resorts that share the small, white sand cove attract a relaxed mix of Thais and farangs (as foreigners are known in Thailand) – residents and visitors alike. The reasons they come are threefold – accessibility (Bangkok is just two hours drive away), nature (the area is a national park), and serenity (the island is one of Thailand’s most unspoiled). Indeed, it is Koh Samed’s very proximity to the Thai capital that has saved it from the excesses that have overwhelmed larger islands such as Koh Chang, Koh Samui and Ko Phangan. Foreign sightseeing

tourists have largely bypassed it on their way south, attracted by the promise of elephants, natural beauty, and full moon parties, respectively. Their loss has been Bangkok’s gain, with a regular weekend influx of city slickers in need of a beach break. Along with nine neighbouring islands, Koh Samed has been part of the Khao Laem Ya – Mu Ko Samet National Park since 1981. The other smaller, uninhabited isles have highly colourful names such as Ko Thai Khang Kao (Bat’s Bottom Island), Ko Kudi (Monk’s Chamber Island) and Ko Klet Chalam (Shark Scale Island). Samed, however, is simply the Thai word for the Cajeput tree that is found all over the isle, an evergreen with red flowers that is a source of essential oils frequently used in aromatherapy and, aptly, massages. Its stunning scenery has attracted Thais for centuries – famed poet Sunthorn Phu (1786– 1855) used it as the setting for his masterpiece work Phra Apaimanee, which depicted a romance between bangkok 101

Phra Apaimanee

Hat Sai Kaeo

Samed Resorts

a prince and mermaid (statues of the lovelorn couple stand on a rocky outcrop halfway down Hat Sai Kaeo beach, a popular photo-op for romantic tourists). As long as you keep the environment in mind and remember that you are visiting a protected national park, Koh Samed remains a place where all the usual seaside fun can be found. The calm, clear waters are perfect for snorkelling, though you’ll need to swim a ways offshore to find coral due to the shallow, sandy seabed. If it’s sea life you’re after, then a better bet is to join one of the numerous boat trips to neighbouring Ko Kudi, a diving hotspot due to its sloping solid

bangkok 101

Ao Prao Resort

rock seabed, abundant marine life and visibility of up to 12 metres. Fish commonly seen here include the comical-looking cowfish (the horns on their head make it difficult for predators to swallow them) and more common batfish (shiny silver with yellow fins), as well as the endangered tree-like black coral. If you can’t drag yourself away from the colourful scene, the national park office on the island offers tents for rent at B200 baht per person per night (if you’ve brought one, pitching your own costs B20 per person per night). For the more active, all hotels will be able to arrange the usual variety of water sports, including jet skiing, windsurfing, canoeing and parasailing. You can also rent motorbikes – though be advised the roads are mostly unpaved, and can be treacherous following rain. However, most Thai visitors are simply content to while away the hours by the resort pool, or lying on one of the many white sand beaches, supposedly the whitest in the country. Following their example, that’s exactly where our little party spent several lazy, hazy days, relaxing on the sand and only leaving to take lunch, dinner and sunset drinks. We were in no rush. After all, being only two hour’s drive from Bangkok, there’s always next weekend... sightseeing

n GETTING THERE Buses from Ekkamai Bus Station to Ban Phe ferry pier leave every 2-3 hours during the day (2.5 hours, B125 one way), while a hire car costs B4,200 return (2 hours). Boat transfer can be arranged with your hotel, or you can catch the public ferry, which costs B50 one way. n Admission fee Because Koh Samed is part of a Thai national park, there is an admission fee of B200 per person collected upon arrival. Some hotels already include this within the price. n Stay Samed Resorts offers the most luxurious accommodation available on the island, with five distinct highend properties to choose from. Ao Prao is most recommended for families and groups, and Paradee for couples. See the website for the most up-to-date package deals. 02-438-9771; www.samedresorts.com n Eat Jep’s Bungalows on Hat Sai Kaeo occupies features wooden tables set right in the sand and views right down the beach; 03-864-4112; www. jepbungalow.com. However, Samed Resorts’ restaurants offer the most high-end dining experiences. n Weather The best time to visit is between December and May, when there are clear skies and sunshine. From June to September there can be light rain during the morning or evening, but little during the day. 41

Sightseeing

over the border Simon Ostheimer

: N O G I A S

Minh City The fall and rise of Ho Chi

espite its name, Vietnam’s southern ‘capital’ remains Saigon in the minds of most visitors. Renamed Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) following its capture (or liberation, depending on how you look at it) by the Communist forces of North Vietnam in 1975, it has a long and storied history. Originally a small fishing village founded by Khmers, the area became inundated with Vietnamese settlers and was annexed by them in the late 1600s. It was subsequently conquered by the French in 1859, became the capital of South Vietnam in 1955, and was under American influence until the end of the Vietnam War in 1975. With the introduction of limited capitalist reforms in the early 1990s, tourists (and their dollars) began to return. Today, with its wide, tree-lined boulevards, colonial architecture, and fondness for baguettes, the city retains a charming Gallic air. However, there are also bustling bars and restaurants, emerging music and art scenes, and

increasing numbers of expatriates making HCMC, or Saigon, the beating heart of an emerging Asian nation. Any tour starts at the NotreDame Basilica, a huge French-built cathedral in the centre of town with spires that reach 58 metres high. Built in 1880, services are still held here on Sundays (Vietnamese-language only). The church is adjacent to the Gothiclooking Central Post Office, which

Notre-Dame

sightseeing

was designed by architect Gustave Eiffel – he of the famous Paris tower. Still fulfilling its original function, it’s a great place to stop and send a postcard home, as well as gawp at the colonial-era map that covers an entire wall. From here, a five minute walk west through a park leads you to the Reunification Palace. Once home to the president of South Vietnam, it is now a museum devoted to 70s kitsch. At least it seems that way – the original gaudy décor and fittings have been left as they were when North Vietnamese tanks famously broke down the gates on 30 April, 1975. Just 10 minutes walk to the southwest lays the large Ben Thanh Market building; a symbol of Saigon, and the perfect place to pick up lunch before an afternoon of souvenir shopping. Here, treat yourself to a bowl of steaming pho (noodle soup), banh khot (small rice flour pancakes filled with shrimp and mung bean) and goi cuon (fresh spring roll filled with pork, shrimp mint, carrots and herbs). If bangkok 101

you find yourself still shopping as the sun goes down, an evening market with a great food selection sets up shop outside the market. Otherwise, head across the park opposite to Pham Ngu Lao and walk west. This district is home to the vast majority of backpacker accommodation, as well as burger joints, bars, cafes, massage places and souvenir shops (if you really must board the plane home wearing a non la, the conical Vietnamese bamboo hat). You’ll also find a number of travel agents where you can arrange day trips

Upstairs, Dogma sells a variety of kooky fashion and revolutionaryera posters. If you’re now feeling shopped out, then take the weight off at Phatty’s, a sports bar that plays live matches from the EPL, NFL, NBA, and any other acronym you care to name. If you find yourself taking an extended pit stop, bear in mind that almost all bars in Saigon close at 12am, in accordance with government law. However, if you’re in search of a nightcap there are still places open. Coming out of Ton That Thiep, you’ll emerge onto Nguyen Hue, head left up this road to the roundabout. Here, in front of you lies a statue of Ho Chi Minh, backlit by the ornate French-built Ho Chi Minh City Hall, home to the city government. Once you’ve taken your photo opportunity, head west on Le Loi towards the even Park Hyatt Saigon more grandiose building (such as to the Cu Chi tunnels, a on your right, this is the Municipal formidable underground labyrinth Theatre – or as the guidebooks often that helped the Vietcong defeat refer to it, the Saigon Opera House. both the French and American It has served as a theatre for almost occupiers), as well as purchase train all of its 110 year history, apart from and plane tickets to both domestic a 20 year period (1955-1975) when and major international destinations. it was used by the lower house Leaving behind the backpackers, of parliament. The communists head west on Le Loi, stopping to restored it to its original purpose. order a banh mi (baguette filled with Flanking one side of the building is your choice of pate, pork, cheese the five-star Park Hyatt Saigon hotel. and vegetables) from a roadside Only opened in 2005, it perfectly stall if you’re still peckish. Walk represents the city’s past and future. about 10 minutes until you reach With its old-world splendor and Duong Pasteur (named after the colonial-inspired architecture, it famed French chemist), then take harks back to the days of Vietnam’s a right, and after 100 metres turn French past. At the same time, it also left onto Ton That Thiep. With represents Saigon’s re-emergence a handful of boutique shops, and on the international stage. It is apt, Western-orientated bars, this area then, that it is also the place to finish is a popular destination for Saigon off a remarkable day, with a drink expatriates on weekends. If you’re at 2 Lam Son, open daily until 2am. after a unique gift, check out Saigon With a contemporary, VietnameseKitsch, where Audrey Tran sells a line influenced interior designed by of retro products featuring beloved famed Japanese firm Super Potato, Uncle Ho (Chi Minh) and various patrons flock here from all over the other communist cadres on coasters, city to soak up the atmosphere – T-shirts, notebooks and mouse pads. and raise a toast to the new Saigon. bangkok 101

sightseeing

Opera

n GETTING THERE With two flights a day, Thai AirAsia flies from Bangkok to HCMC (Saigon) for approx. B4,400 return. n Stay Located at the heart of town, the Park Hyatt Saigon gives international guests a five-star experience. 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, +84-8-38241234; www.saigon.park.hyatt.com n Shop Pick up a bargain at Ben Thanh Market (intersection of Le Loi and Tran Hung Dao), or a souvenir from Saigon Kitsch (43 Ton That Thiep, District 1, +84-8-3824-8019) n Eat Voted one of Asia’s finest restaurants by the Miele Guide 2009/2010, The Opera serves up some of Saigon’s best Italian cuisine in a stunning location overlooking the famous Opera House. 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, +84-8-3520-2357; www.saigon.park.hyatt.com n Drink Enjoy sports action at Phatty’s (4648 Ton That Thiep, District 1, +818-3821 0705; www.phattysbar.com); or a sophisticated drink at 2 Lam Son (2 Lam Son Square) n Weather The best time to visit is during the dry season, which runs DecemberMarch. The weather is also cooler, with the average temperature ranging from 22 to 24 degrees. 43

PHOTOFEATURE

Siam Days of Glory Close-ups of 19th Century Siam

et there be no doubt: the reign of His Majesty King Chulalongkorn (1868-1910) was one of the most momentous in the history of modern Thailand. It was a time when, under the stewardship of an astute and open-minded monarch, Siam moved closer to the European colonial powers in a bid to retain independence from them. And a time when, due to his receptiveness to things new-fangled and foreign, photography caught on big here. Both these late 19th century developments are beguilingly captured in Siam: Days of Glory – a new, bilingual and flawlessly produced coffee-table book commemorating the centenary of this iconic King’s passing. Featuring over 190 original photographs from his reign, many never before seen, this meticulous, sepia-toned viewbook brings a key moment in Siam’s history – a nation teetering on the cusp of modernity – into fresh focus. ››

PHOTOFEATURE

Crown Prince Maha Vajirunhis with others during his monkhood at Bovornives Temple; 1891

The Great Sermon Ceremony on the occasion Crown Prince Vajrunhis was ordained as a monk; 1891 “It has two par ts” says its author Khun Athada Khoman, a businessman whose famous ancestors, the Bunnag Family, faithfully served the Royal Court. “The first part features pictures I believe were taken more than 120 years ago by Gustave Richard Lambert, a German photographer who travelled to Siam from time to time during King Rama V’s reign. The second part focuses on the diplomatic ties between Siam and the West.” Though every page deserves studied inspection, the book’s real triumph is its first half: the 68 photos taken from Lambert’s photo album, a find that Khun Athada, an avid collector of early Thai photographs, stumbled across in Europe. Thought to have been compiled circa 1890, around the time of Crown Prince Maha Vajirunhis, this album is remarkable both for the breadth of its subjects and the crisp quality with which they are reproduced. “Most old photos that appear in books here in Thailand are in bad condition because of the climate and the way we keep them,” he says. “Others are copies of copies from the National Archives. But the photos in this album from Europe look like they were taken yesterday – they were preserved very well.” Pictures of King Chulalongkorn donning the weighty, Great Crown of Victory (see this month’s front cover), royal ceremonies like the Royal Barge Procession, as well temples and palaces are among the marvels that make

up the album, which Khun Athada believes was intended as a gift from a Siamese envoy to be presented to some European dignitary or Head of State. Other rare pictures include group photos of Crown Prince Maha Vajirunhis posing with other teenage monks during his monkhood in 1891, and King Rama V sitting with Prince George of Greece on one side and Crown Prince Nicholas, the future Tsar of Russia, on the other. Perhaps the most illuminating images of all in Siam: Days of Glory, however, are those of the Monarch on sojourns away from the Royal court, enjoying informal outings around rural Siam, as well as those shots capturing daily life. “I believe every nationality must learn about their past and where they come from” says Athada. “This book is my way of sharing old photos and their secrets with the Thai people – there’s many things we can learn from them.” He’s not wrong. Discoveries to be gleaned range from the trivial (e.g. the city’s Sanam Luang cremation ground was treeless back then) to the genuinely insightful. In ‘The Siamese People’ chapter, for example, painterly portraits of postmen, Chinese traders and other common folk taken at Lambert’s studio speak volumes about sartorial tastes and ethnic diversity at the time. Let the following selection of pictures from the first half of the book inspire you to learn something of this bygone age too. The book, available now, is priced at B2,310, with part of the proceeds going to the Princess Pa Foundation, part of the Thai Red Cross Society, to help with flood relief.

PHOTOFEATURE

A group photo taken at Bang Pa-In Palace, Ayudhya; King Chulalongkorn is seen here with Crown Prince Nicolas of Russia, Prince George of Greece, Crown Prince Maha Vajirunhis and Prince Bhanubhandhuwongse Voradej; March 25,1891

King Chulalongkorn on an ox-drawn wagon with his entourage on one of his incognito tours in rural Siam

A young Chinese girl in traditional costume

PHOTOFEATURE

Postman in period dress

Members of the Expatriate Club (assumed to be The Bangkok United Club)

Raft shops on Bangkok Noi Canal,Thonburi

PHOTOFEATURE

Raft shops on Bangkok Noi Canal,Thonburi

The Great Sermon Ceremony on the occasion Crown Prince Vajirunhis was ordained as a monk

A local Siamese family

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional absorption of all things American and

Art Republic

European, many of Thailand’s freshfaced generation of artists are infatuated with the street-style, urban iconography of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, Korea and increasingly China. An indicator of the growing profile of Thai art could be in the proliferation of new commercial galleries that have opened in the last couple of years, with Bangkok gaining over a dozen new venues in different areas across the city. These include artist -run spaces such as printmaker and sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s hotbed of young conceptualists at Gallery VER. While Thailand’s ongoing political debacle has complicated ar tistic planning, the decade-plus wait for the new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opposite MBK shopping mall, is over. For news of its exhibitions, performances and the like log on to www.bacc.or.th GALLERIES The majority of contemporary art on view in Bangkok is produced by domestic practitioners, several of whom are now receiving significant international exposure, though there is ar ts

an increasing number of regional Asian artists displaying their works, at prices often cheaper than in countries like Singapore, China and Vietnam. Whether hoping to peruse some emerging local protagonist, or purchase something a bit more commercial or traditional, one thing’s for certain – prices for art in Bangkok are much more realistic and reasonable than in the over-inflated, fashionable ar t centres found in America, Europe and, increasingly, China. You’ll soon realise that the city doesn’t have a concentrated artistic enclave; rather, there are small pockets of galleries, auction houses and antiques shops randomly dispersed throughout the city. Commercial galleries are spread across town and a little route planning is advised before embarking on a day of gallery musing. On the following page is a selection of noteworthy galleries about town. Steven Pettifor is the editor of the Bangkok Art Map (BAM), and author of Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is available as a consultant to art buyers: stevenpettifor@hotmail.com bangkok 101

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab a copy and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

art exhibitions

Until Dec 23 Crafting Geographies BKK Art House Gallery, BACC F3, 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | 080-990-6910 | Tue-Sun noon-7.30pm | BTS National Stadium The constructs and perceptions of architecture, structure and space are explored in the site-specific installations of three emerging artists. All trained in Sweden, Ada Chirakranont, Chessada Inthaphan, and Worapong Manupipatpong employ woven textile, furniture and interior design to create a surreal artificial landscape that provokes viewers to reconsider their everyday simulated surroundings.

Until Jan 9 Rupture: Cause and Effect Bangkok Art & Cultural Center (BACC), 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | 02-2146630-1| Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th | BTS National Stadium During the deadly protests of April and May, the world’s media focused their lenses on downtown Bangkok, beaming pictures of the mayhem across the globe. This in turn sparked issues of press subjectivity. Against such a backdrop, a group of five Thai and international photographers have come together to present idiosyncratic perspectives that move beyond the imagery already in the public domain. Curated by Bangkok-based British photographer Olivier Pin-fat, Rupture: Cause and Effect is intended to provoke thought about the fractures in Thai society, and is staged in the very public domain of the BACC.

Until Jan 15 Revisit the Jim Thompson Era: Fashion & Fantasy Bazaar Jim Thompson Art Centre, 6 Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | 02-216-7368 | 9am-5pm | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | BTS National Stadium Blurring distinctions between fashion, art, product design and historical documentation, this collaborative exhibition between multidisciplinary artist Michael Shaowanasai and hi-so fashion designer Nagara uses the pretext of Jim Thompson’s life and disappearance. Set up as a catwalk topped with dress designs and a product bazaar to the rear, sales from the exhibition will benefit the Jim Thompson Art Centre.

Until Jan 16 Nirvanic Icons: Sacred Luang Prabang Serindia Gallery, OP Garden, Unit 3101, 3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36 | 02-238-6410 | Tue-Sun 11am-8pm | serindiagallery@gmail.com Even though depictions of Buddhist monks are always a popular subject matter for photographers and artists in Asia, German lensman Hans Georg Berger’s dedication to the portrayal of monasticism in Laos imbues his platinum prints with new intimacy. His passion is such that Berger established the Buddhist Archive of Photography in Luang Prabang, which holds some sourced photographs dating back to the 1890s. bangkok 101

ar ts

Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Aksra Theatre

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com.

Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai | BTS Victory Monument | 02-677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular 600-capacity theatre located by the Victory Monument, with an interior lined with wood carvings, experience hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. This is family entertainment of the refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to watch contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but also an entire arts complex, comprising of classes, residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions: the shows are world-class because of it.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, the performance here is hailed as 'a showcase of Thailand'. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 local performers journey whirlwindlike through seven centuries of storied Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests arrive to experience this spectacle nightly. In shor t, it's a spectacular showcase of eye-popping poignancy.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.31), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.28), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.83).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-224-1342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง ar ts

bangkok 101

TCDC (Thailand

Creative & Design Centre)

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres.These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on.

cultural centres

Alliance Française (map C4)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly WHERE 6F,The Emporium good at opening your Shopping Complex, mind and eyes to Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS curious international Phrom Phong, 02-664-8448, design concepts; be it www.tcdc.co.th OPEN Vivienne Westwood’s 10:30am-9pm closed Mon always fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

Japan Foundation (map D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ The Belgian Club of Thailand (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com

BACC (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th The 11-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls and looks out towards the city’s elevated skytrain. Best described as The Guggenheim meets a shopping mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre is currently nurturing artists in a range of creative fields, including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting a space of 3,000sqm for displaying exhibitions. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

bangkok 101

ar ts

Arts APEX LIDO & SCALA (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02-251-2861, โรงภาพยนต์ลโิ ด และสกาลา

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, stateof-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.55), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180. The best place to check screening times is on the daily-updated www.movieseer.com.

Please

Thai Cinema

stand while the king's anthem is played in respect to Thailand’s beloved monarch.

Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s bordertransgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org.

cinema dine

If you don’t fancy watching a movie at the local Cineplex, or on your living room couch, there’s another option that falls snugly between the two. Mondays are Cinema Dine night at Bed Supperclub (p84), where staff serve three-course meals by Chef Dan M. Ivarie (B1,450 plus gourmet popcorn), while you watch a classic or cult flick. This month Bed goes ‘Back to the 80s’, plucking favourites from the decade when we all sat around with big hair watching John Hughes movies. Confirming that fact, the line-up kicks off on Dec 6 with Hughes’ bratpack classic The Breakfast Club. In it, five high-schoolers – a geek, jock, outcast, snob and future criminal – bond during detention. A week later on Dec 13 The Empire Strikes Back in Episode V of George Lucas’ visionary space opus. It’s been 30 years since Yodi first taught Luke to channel the force, and unbelievably Lucas is still flogging the franchise – the 3D renditions are on their way, we hear. Next up, on 20 Dec, the one-liners and sight gags will come thick and first in aviation spoof Airplane! (still the movie with the highest chuckle count ever, all those years later). Last but not least, a New York Jets football star will battle Ming the Merciless in the ever-so camp science fiction comedy from 1980, Flash Gordon. Expect Bed’s diners to erupt in cries of “Flash! Aaaah-aaaaaaaah!” when that soundtrack, by Queen, kicks in. it. Until next month, dine well… Movies start at 9.30pm. Call 02-651-3537 or visit www.bedsupperclub.com for details. 58

ar ts

สยามสแควร์ ถ. พระราม 1

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า KRUNGSRI IMAX THEATER (world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 Major Cineplex Ratchayothin 1839 Phaholyothin Rd. | BTS Mochit, MRT Paholyothin, then taxi | 02-511-3311 เมเจอร์รช ั โยธิน ถ.พหลโยธิน Major Cineplex Sukhumvit 1221/39 sukhumvit Rd., North Klongtan | BTS Ekkamai | 02-3814855 เมเจอร์สข ุ มุ วิท

ใกล้สถานีรถไฟฟ้าบีทเี อสเอกมัย

PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | ! 02-260-9333 เอ็มโพเรียม สุขม ุ วิท 24 SF Cinema city MBK

bangkok 101

reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stores offer the latest in print, new and used. Things Thai Tanistha Danslip & Michael Freeman | Tuttle Publishing | 128pp | US$19.95 As it says on the tin, this new release from Asian specialist Tuttle Publishing examines the traditional objects that define what it means to be Thai. Divided into three categories – Decorative Arts, Religious Paraphernalia and Rural Crafts – the lovingly curated book contains detailed photography accompanied by introductions to the pictured objects. These include thang, the ornate day beds that today feature in many Western living rooms as unique coffee tables. Arriving in the country along with early Chinese traders, over time they were given dual uses by the Thai aristocracy (as the author points out, ordinary households didn’t enjoy the privilege of ‘raised’ living). The first stuck with its original function, albeit with the introduction of a Western-style mattress, while the second saw it used as a feature piece, storing decorative items such as mirrors – not far off its most current use in the West. It is

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English s u b t i t l e s a n d DV D r e g i o n compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

representative of the Thai tendency for intricate design that such a simple object took on three distinct styles, namely “the straight-legged kha mu, the sinuous lion’s foot kha singh… and the plainer incurved kha khu.” In the second themed section of the book, pages are devoted to items such as statues, amulets, spirit houses, alms bowls and the origins of the naga, the mythical water serpent that is meant to launch fireballs from the Mekong river every October in Isaan. The latter chapter, meanwhile, includes details on kong khao, the sticky-rice containers most popular in the northeast; the ngorb, or farmer hats that are synonymous with the boat ladies of the floating markets; and ethnic minority jewelry (khrueang ngoen chao khao), the highly sought-after, usually silver, objet d’art. In short, with its combination of well-researched, comprehensive descriptions and illustrative, detailed photos of Thailand’s most iconic ‘antiques, crafts and collectibles’, Things Thai not only serves as an important education about the nation’s most treasured possessions; but also as a smartly presented cultural primer.

Bizarre Thailand Jim Algie | Maverick House | 335pp | B524 Canadian Jim Algie has spent 17 years writing for local publications, the dark, sexy stories he’s covered forming the backbone of this collection of essays focusing on eccentric Thailand, “a Twilight Zone where nothing is what it seems” he writes. It could have been a tabloid-style hatchet job that paints the country as a grotesque freakshow, but it isn’t. Whether he’s hanging out with sex workers, cowboys or sacred tortoises, Algie is never anything but the model feature writer, bringing empathy, balance, wit and no small amount of research to his subjects. Over 24 sprawling chapters this engaging approach continues, before closing with a‘Directory of the Bizarre’, so you can track down the places featured (if you dare). We’ll be dipping in to Bizarre Thailand for some time, we fancy. From the rock musician who traded in his guitar for an executioner’s machine gun to the first lady of forensics, it’s really an irreverent celebration of what makes this country such a curiosity: its people.

THE LEGEND OF SURIYOTHAI Suriyothai | Chatrilerm Yukol | 2001 | B199 This bloated white elephant of a film isn’t good so much as grandiose – but it makes an interesting study of that old historic wound, the sacking of Ayutthaya by the Burmese more than two hundred years ago. One of the top-grossing Thai films of all time, this three-hour hog boasts royal intrigue, blood-spurting executions, big ol battle scenes, and acting of such stiffness that it seems that the entire cast is dreaming of leaving behind their woodenness to become real live actors some day. Fans of bloated epics such as Troy won’t be disappointed. At the heart of the film is the beloved Queen Suriyothai, brave Amazon, elephant-rider, martyr of the Siam resistance. After you’re watched Suriyothai, pay a pilgrimage to Ayutthaya and feel the burn. ar ts

Arts

paradise found

Each month the crate-digging DJ duo behind the leftfield luk-thung, molam, and funk night 'Paradise Bangkok', Chris Menist and Maft Sai, delve into the more obscure corners of the Kingdom’s music.Their record label 'ZudRangMa' showcases the best of Thai music both old and new, and has a new shop on Thong Lor. For more information, check out: www.zudrangmarecords.com

t’s been nearly two years since myself and Maft Sai first put on ‘Paradise Bangkok’ in the now sadly defunct ‘Rain Dogs’ in Sathorn. As well as playing a broad mixture of music, the aim of the night was to showcase vintage sounds from Thailand’s musical yesteryear, with a focus on luk thung and molam music from Isaan in the country’s northeast. It’s been a pleasure to see Thais and farang from Japan, USA, UK and beyond dancing to Waipod Petsuphan, The Petch Phin Tong Band, and Chaweewan Dumnern into the small hours, and a growing interest in what some had erroneously dismissed as ‘countryside’ music. The aim of this column is to focus on some of these specific tracks, be they from 45 singles or LPs and document some of the more obscure corners of Thai music, hopefully introducing in print what we’ve had the pleasure to do at ‘Paradise Bangkok’. It’s the experimental side of this music that has caught our dual attention over three years of vinyl research, and although they might fit into broad genres, it’s those pieces of music that push the boundaries or successfully incorporate motifs from other styles that stand out whilst you’re flicking through a large pile of dusty records in Chinatown.

First up is Plearn Promdarn, one of the best known names in Thai popular music. He initially began his career singing ram wong, music that accompanies the traditional dance of the same name. He found his fame, however, with ‘talking music’ (tracks that stop and start, with speech interspersing the verses) after a unique premonition. "Jao Por Hor Klong (a religious or spirit figure) came into a dream," explains Dan Buriram, one of the first DJs to pioneer luk thung on the airways. "He apparently said to Plearn that if he wanted to become famous then he should bring ‘nine black things’ (any foodstuff that are black such as beans, black sticky rice, black chicken etc...) and make an offering at the temple.” Perturbed, he nevertheless did as his dream suggested. The next day he was contacted by a songwriter called Songklor Samattapapong who offered him a track, which would feature breaks interspersed by dialogue. Plearn originally thought it sounded like a terrible idea, but went along with it. The track ‘Kao Sod Sod’ (‘Fresh News’) became a massive hit and instantly established Plearn as a rising star on the luk thung scene, garnering fame for this new gimmick. ar ts

There are too many great Plearn tracks to choose from but there are a couple that have been staples at ‘Paradise Bangkok’. ‘Kosok Tee Det’ was actually recorded somewhat later in his career, but took the concept of ‘talking music’ to its logical conclusion. It features several comedic sales pitches as Plearn attempts to flog useless products to members of the public, over nagging surf guitar. Dan Buriram himself actually features on this track, and in fact recorded around 500 skits as part of Plearn’s talking interludes. Plearn’s recordings are known for their biting humour and surreal touches, facets that are additionally evident in another killer track, ‘Wan Maha Sanook’. Sounding more like it might have been recorded in Lagos or Bogota, and featuring a heavy backbeat and ominous brass, Plearn paints a strange, cartoonish landscape, describing the day his pets lose the plot, taking in buffalo that refuse to pull their plough and insist on wearing false teeth, alcoholic monkeys, reefer toking elephants and cows who just want to wear clothes and drink Ovaltine for breakfast. These are but two wonderful tunes from a stand out career that is, thankfully, still going strong today. bangkok 101

Daily the resident herbal ball creator demonstrates how she fills the Lavana herbal ball pouch with 18 different fresh herbs that will be used to massage along the energy lines of the body. Another exclusive treatment is the Shirodhara Indian head massage. This is an ancient theraphy performed by certified therapists. As you lie back a continuous stream of warm oil is poured on the middle of the forehead. The soothing cares of your ‘third eye’ lulls you into a deep sleep and balances the brain and calms the mind.

Daily the resident herbal ball creator demonstrates how she fills the Lavana herbal ball pouch with 18 different freshherbs that will be used to massage along the energy lines of the body

Breakfast at Lavana

Imagine leaving all the cares of the world behind and spending a slow leisurely morning relaxing in your own private room. Spend the hours lingering over a sumptuous American breakfast after pampering yourself with our exclusive massage treatment. Could breakfast at Lavana’s become your own secret escape? (free breakfast at Lavana everyday from 09.00 am.-13.00 pm. with any oil massage treatment)

Special Promotion 1st – 31st December 2010 FREE breakfast at Lavana everyday

SPECIAL PROMOTION 1st  31st OCTOBER 2010 am.- 13.00 pm with any from 09.00

- 09.00 am.- 13.00 pm. Any oil massage. Free facial treatment - Aroma oil massage 60 min. 800 THB / 90 min. 1,000 THB / 120 min. 1,200 THB - 4 hand aroma 60 min. 1,400 THB / 90 min. 1,600 THB / 120 min. 1,800 THB - Thai Massage 60 min. 450 THB/ 90 min. 550 THB/ 120 min. 650 THB - Thai Massage with Herbal Ball 90 min. 850 THB/ 120 min. 950 THB

oil massage treatment and any oil massage get free facial treatment from 09.00 am.- 14.00 pm.

LAVANA LAVANABANGKOK BANGKOK

No.4 soisoi Sukhumvit 12,Sukhumvit Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoey, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 No.4 Sukhumvit 12, Road, Klongtoey, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 Tel:Tel: +66(0) mail@lavanabangkok.com +66(0)222294510-12, 2294510-12, mail@lavanabangkok.com ForFor taxi: ตรงจากปากซอยสุ ุมวิประมาณ ท 12 ประมาณ 100 เมตรอยู นขวามื taxi:ลาวานา ลาวานา ตรงจากปากซอยสุ ขุมวิทข12 100 เมตรอยู ดานขวามื อ ตึดกาใหญ สีเขียวอ ตึกใหญสีเขียว Opening hours: am.-00.00 reception 23.00 pm.) Opening hours: 09.00 09.00 am.-00.00 am.am. (last(last reception 23.00 pm.) bangkok 101 Advance booking ishighly highly recommended ar ts Advance booking is recommended

Food&Drink

dining in bangkok

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. The true Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared; real evidence of the importance of dining to the sense of community.

Nang Kwak

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms. Fantastic food is also available round the clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times of 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.75). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with many vendors carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anything-once, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

$ under B400 $$ B400 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000 a service charge (typically

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 62

food & drink

bangkok 101

Christmas & New Year’s Menus

Being in Bangkok for Christmas or New Year doesn’t mean you have to forgo the mulled wine and mince pies. Far from it: many of Bangkok’s restaurants and hotels pull out all the stops to ensure its Western guests – and a fare few Thais – enjoy a memorable festive season blow-out. These can appear fairly pricey on the face of it, but then the hotels do tend to throw in all the trimmings, from creative menus to xmas carols and visits by Santa. Here’s our pick of this Yuletide season’s bunch. Bed Supperclub

02-651-3537 InterContinental

02-656-0444 (book early December for early bird discounts) Marriott Resort & Spa

02-476-0022 ext. 1416 Pullman Bangkok King Power

02-680-9999 Sheraton Grande Sukhuvmit

02-649-8368 Sofitel Silom Bangkok

02-238-1991 The Sukhothai

02-344-8888 bangkok 101

meal deals

Christmas

New Year's Eve

Served on Xmas Eve and Day, Bed’s 5-course ‘New York Christmas’ set dinner (B2,450) includes welcome glass of wine and free entry to the club-side party. Optional wine pairing, available all month (except NYE), is B1,300 extra.

Celebrate 2011's arrival with a 5-course set dinner (B7,500, B12,500 with VIP butler). Welcome drink, performances and free entry to the countdown bash are included. Alternatively, hit the 5-course set dinner (B2,450) on New Years Day.

Christmas Eve: feast on a la carte seasonal dishes like roast turkey at Fireplace Grill; or one-off Italian treats at Grossi Trattoria. Espresso will also lay on a gala seafood buffet (B2,900++). Christmas Day: Fireplace Grill and Grossi will serve seasonal specials (think turkey barramundi or cranberry ravioli), while Espresso will dish up a festive brunch buffet (B2,500++) and dinner buffet (B1,500++).

Ring in 2011 at Espresso with a Gala seafood buffet dinner (B3,500++) with free flow champagne, wine, beer and cocktail option (B1,500 extra). Snazzy Grossi Trattoria will also serve an Italian buffet and DJ music till late (as well as a New Year’s Day brunch for B1,499++).

Christmas’s Eve: Trader Vic’s offers six courses of Pacific Rim cuisine (B2,999B, add B1,999 for wine pairing); Manohra Cruises a seven course Thai set menu (2,499B) aboard a converted rice barge; the Riverside Terrace an international buffet with Thai dance (B1,899 – add 699B for free flow beer, wine and soft drinks). Christmas Day: Trader Vic’s hosts a brunch buffet with free flow Mai Tai and sherbet cocktails (B2,099, add B400 for free flow wine); The Market an al fresco brunch buffet beside the Chao Phraya river (B999, add B699 for free flow drinks); the Riverside Terrace an international Dinner Buffet (B1,599, add B699 for free flow drinks).

Trader Vic’s will rustle up an 11 course set menu (B6,999 – add B2,999 for wine and champagne) and live band; Brio a luxury Italian set menu (B4,999 – add B2,999 for wine pairing and champagne); Manohra Cruises 8 courses of authentic Thai (B7,999) while you wind up stream. Lastly, the Riverside Terrace will lay on a gourmet dinner buffet (B5,999) and give away some impressive prizes.

Christmas Eve: enjoy a trad xmas dinner buffet with com- Enjoy the countdown while enjoying 18 tapas dishes (foie plimentary Prosecco at Cuisine Unplugged (B1,450). gras, French cheese, Charcuterie, etc) and your choice of Christmas Day: enjoy a brunch featuring turkey plus wine at the Wine Pub’s Black Out Party (B1,190). trimmings (B1,220); listen to Christmas Carols over a candlelight set dinner at Déjà Vu (B990); or up the stakes with a dinner buffet (B1,180). Christmas Eve: enjoy a gourmet dinner buffet and swinging live jazz at The Living Room (adults B3,390, kids B1,690); or festive brunch buffet (adults B,1550, kids B850) or set menu (adults B1,190, kids B950) at Orchid Café. Christmas Day: indulge in a jazzy brunch buffet (B3,390, B1,690) across 3 of the hotel’s restaurants; or enjoy a festive lunch (B1,100) or dinner buffet (B1,990, B950) at Orchid Café. Alternatively, sit down for a five-course set dinner at Rossini’s (B2,500).

See off the year with an extravagant buffet at Orchid Café (B3,390/B1,690) or a poolside seafood barbeque buffet under the stars at The Sala (B3,390/ B1,690). Other options include an Italian set menu at Rossini’s (B4,800) or a Thai one at basil (B2,200). The Living Room will also serve live jazz and a lavish dinner (B3,390) while chichi basement bar, Bar Su, throws a party featuring creative cuisine, cocktails and eclectic tunes (B2,500 after 10pm).

Christmas Eve: Mistral will serve a hearty xmas dinner buffet (B1,499, B2,499 with unlimited soft & alcoholic drinks); wine-bar-cum-restaurant V9 a creative 5-course menu (B2,499). Christmas Day: choose from brunch at Mistral (B899) or an all-you-can-eat dim sum lunch at Shanghai 39 (B999).

Mistral will wheel out a buffet featuring lots of fresh seafood and seasonal delicacies (B1,899, or B3,499 with unlimited soft & alcoholic drinks); Shanghai 38 a sumptuous 8-course Chinese dinner (B3,499).

Christmas Eve: enjoy a buffet dinner alongside live jazz at Colonnade (B3,800++); or a gala 5-course dinner at Italian La Scala (B3,500++). Christmas Day: reservations are a must for the in-demand xmas brunch at Colonnade (B2,500++).

Kick off the night with some bubbly in The Zuk Bar, then savour a 7-course set menu with your choice of main at Italian La Scala (B4,500++). Afterwards, shimmy to a live band at The Zuk Countdown Party.

food & drink

Food&Drink

thai cuisine

Did you know?

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desserts or savoury mousses are social affair in Thailand. wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Compared to the West, eating is much more of a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independent one; at the dinner table they’re all meant to be shared. 64

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drink

Somtum

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong (spicy shrimp soup) Tom kha gai (chicken in coconut soup) Phad thai (Thai-style fried noodles) Mu/gai sa-te (pork/chicken skewers) Som tam (spicy green papaya salad) Yam nua (spicy beef salad) Gai yang (grilled chicken) Phanaeng (curry coconut cream) Kaeng phet pet yang (roast duck curry) Kaeng khiao wan gai (green curry chicken) Phad kaphrao (stir-fried meat with sacred basil) Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan (stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts) ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks, including coffee, but there are always some surprises available.Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao (coconut juice) Nam krajeab (rosella flower juice) Nam matoom (bael fruit juice) Nam ta-krai (lemongrass juice) Nam tao hoo (hot soy bean milk) Cha yen (Thai iced tea with condensed milk) bangkok 101

thai sweets

Phutsa

‘Polamai’: Thai Fruits

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

Phutsa (jujube)

Widely cultivated all over Asia for thousands of years, the phutsa, also known as the jujube, is a small, oval-shaped fruit that usually grows about 1.5cm-3cm long. In recent years however, a 'giant Thai jujube' variety has been cultivated, with the fruit growing up to the size of an apple. As it happens, the crispy and crunchy flesh of the phutsa tastes quite similar to an apple, and is also available in green and red varieties. As it matures and ripens, the skin begins to take on a golden hue. It is either eaten fresh, with a salt-sugar dip, baked, or candied and preserved. It is also widely used in traditional medicine, as the fruit is believed to help alleviate stress. In the Himalayan regions, the phutsa is thought to make teenagers fall in love, so you’ll find many amorous young men with the plant's flowers in hand to help enhance their personal pheromone count. bangkok 101

food & drink

Food&Drink

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

treet food is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. So much so that if you took away the city’s rot khen (mobile vendor carts) it would begin to taste rather bland. Some open for lunch only; while others open all night. However, though they are common to every street, knowing which carts sell what, when and where (not to mention well) is a skill many Bangkokians pride themselves on. Short on time? Then make for one of the following hotspots, where clusters of vendors sell great feeds for little more than pocket-change.

ealikte

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

Breakfast in the Old Town

When I’m after an inspiring breakfast I often head to my favorite part of Bangkok: the Old Town. Here, in the Phahurat area, is a place called the Old Siam Plaza. When I was a little girl, this was the Siam Square of Bangkok, with a number of crowd-pulling department stores, shops, restaurants and a theatre all in the vicinity. Many of them are still here, ageing gracefully. This includes On Lok Yun, an almost 80 year-old coffee house. In the old days it used to function like a Parisian café, people coming here to read, sip and talk politics. Now? It’s still busy, only these days it’s filled with everyone from dapperly dressed uncles to Brit Pop styled teens and everyone in between. They enjoy the old interior, but they come for the famous all-day breakfast. Served from 5am-4pm, it includes several Western dishes with a Thai twist, such steamed khanom pang (bread) with sang khaya (egg custard); or khanom pang ping rad nom (toasted bread with drops of condensed milk on top). I am also a big fan of their fried egg with sausages and ham. Glasses of iced Chinese tea are complimentary. And, for those who can’t function without caffeine, there’s cafe yen (iced coffee). Try it wan nidnoi (not too sweet). Honestly, I’m not sure what I enjoy more at On Lok Yun: these terrific starts-to-the-day or the waves of nostalgia that always accompany them. On Lok Yun is on Charoen Krung Road, on the same side as the Salachalerm Krung Theatre. Before Unakan Road, you will find a parade of gun shops; the Old Siam Plaza is on the opposite corner to the cafe. 66

food & drink

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to passing commuters. Sample the delicate, handmade egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am. Corner of Silom/Convent Road The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues. Pratunam Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark.There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door. Soi Rambutri (near Khao San Road) Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the famous stall in front of Swenson’s. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls. bangkok 101

featured

Baan Glom Gig

restaurant

The Powder Room

It’s not what you think. The newest addition to Thong Lor’s already thriving restaurant scene is not a themed devotion to the ladies room, neither is it full of primed kegs ready to go off. Rather, the name pays homage to the main ingredient in their signature dish: the Powder Room curry. The brainchild of the pair behind the Spring-Summer-Winter combination on Sukhumvit 49 (creative director Hans Mueller and actor-chef Phol Tantasathien), The Powder Room sits atop the chichi Grass complex, split between a large open-air deck and a glass enclosed interior. With dim, atmospheric lighting, conversationallevel music, and angular, modern furnishings, the result is a pleasing mesh of indoor and outdoor – a place where you could easily take the wife, relax with friends, head on a date, or discuss business. To accompany the sleek setting, Chef Phol has put together a select menu of his personal favourites, none more representative than the Japanese-flavoured house curry (B260). To ensure the authenticity of the dish, the TV personality spent time in the kitchens of one of Tokyo’s very first curry houses that first opened its doors in 1926. It was time well-spent. Unlike the well known out-of-the-packet fast food variant, the stock here is created by stewing vegetables for hours, while the tender chicken takes a similar amount to time to prepare. Accompanied by a serving of brown rice and a shot glass of pickles, the delicious dish is reason enough to dine here. But that does a disservice to the rest of the menu, an eclectic East-meets-West blend of mostly familiar tastes served in unexpected packages. This list includes grilled pork and wild rocket rolls (B160) – lush green leaves exploding from tofu-wrapped skin and set in a pool of crimson-red chilli sauce, they tastes as good as they sound – bour tod (B150), the classic Thai dish of spicy prawns served on crispy deepfried betel leaves; and pear buta (B210), braised pork and poached pears topped with a coriander crust and dry chili – the melt-in-yourmouth layers of meat are simply divine. Even if you’re not usually a dessert person, make sure you don’t skip the last course. While a regularly changing sweet menu is planned in the future, for now there’s just one thing you need to try: the popcorn ice-cream (B120). Made from Chef Phol’s own recipe, the rich, creamy flavour is reminiscent of the Cornish variety. The popcorn, meanwhile, is the ‘icing’ on the top. If it all sounds rather eclectic, that’s because it is. Chef Phol has deliberately assembled a menu of personal favourites for diners to slowly share over a well-mixed cocktail or two. Speaking of which, the drinks menu contains an excellent selection of specially created beverages. Split between virgin and alcoholic concoctions, we’re particularly fond of the icy sweet Peach Melba and fruity Magic Dragon (guess the main ingredients. B140 each) In sum, The Powder Room serves a mixed range of comfort food, in a classy setting that invites you to sit back and enjoy the evening – not that you’d ever guess it from the name

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Pork and rocket rolls

Powder Room curry

WHERE 264/1 Soi Sukhumvit 55 (Thong Lor), 02-715-9482. BTS Thong Lo PRICE $$ OPEN Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight Popcorn ice-cream

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Hidden Stuff

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Forget retreating to the mall to enjoy dining in cool, airconditioned comfort this month. You simply don’t need to: December is the chilliest month on the Thai calendar, the few weeks of the year when dining outdoors here is a balmy pleasure, not a brow-mopping bore. Run by the same team behind the Moroccaninspired, Al Majis Tearoom, Hidden Stuff might just be one of the best places in town to enjoy it: it’s big, 1970’s style townhouse has a wide lawn just perfect for lingering on. Like other funky townhouse garden restaurants we’re fond of, namely Ari Soi 3’s Reflections and Sukhumvit Soi 49’s Spring Summer, there’s an element of challenge to dining here, or rather getting here to dine – you have to hike deep into Ekkamai suburbia to find it – but the schlep is totally worth it. Inside the twoWHERE 72 Ekkamai Soi 22 | storey building BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-2162 with polished OPEN 4pm-midnight, closed Tues c o n c r e t e PRICE $ floors (and, on our visit, the mouthwatering smell of freshly baked chocolate sponge wafting through it), you can sit on cute warm-wood furniture, amid modern art, racks of trendy clothes and homey bohemian clutter, most of it for sale. But without doubt the coolest seats in the Hidden Stuff house right now are actually outside it: the big coloured beanbags that straddle low white tables out on the lawn. Forget those overpriced rooftop restaurants. Enjoying conversation and plates of food while leant back on one of these humungous pillows, the grass tickling

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your toes, a blissed-out grin on your face, is one of our top outdoor dining experiences in the capital; especially as Hidden Stuff ’s food – mostly eclectic creative Asian with a kick – is pretty good, we discovered. After taking in the quiet suburban ambience (the odd yapping dog is as noisy as things get here; the jazz and hip, bossa nova lounge music played at speakeasy volumes) and flicking through the diamond-shaped leather menu, we ordered in a spread that was as tasty as it was quirky (the price of each dish ends with a 2, an arch reference to its Ekkamai Soi 22 address). Out of the backyard kitchen came a rich, wellspiced tom-yum sauce, thick with all the ingredients normally found in the soup, alongside glutinous sticky rice. Following that was lemongrass chicken with french fries – a dish satisfying enough to get us making mental notes of the others we hope to try next time (crazy orange fish, pita namprik ong, etc). The drinks are also good here, ranging from boozy concoctions to scrumptious non-alcoholic peach sodas. For a party night warm-up or mid-week get-together far from mainstreet madness, Hidden Stuff is a great spot. It’s chill, casual, cheapish (most mains are in the B100200 range) and isn’t yet thronged (there was only a gang of well-behaved uni students in the house on our Friday evening visit). Still, with December seeing a big spike in demand for lawns, patios, terraces and other places where you can indulge in some al fresco indolence, we recommend calling ahead, especially if you have your sights set on a beanbag.

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hen Thailand’s ‘winter’ hits each December, Thais dust off their coats, shiver a lot and do what they usually try and avoid at all costs – dine outdoors. Join them this month by heading for these tried-and-tested restaurants with attractive al fresco areas as well as tasty chow.

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Hyde and Seek 65/1 At henée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2-16 8 - 5152 | 11am-1am | $$ Popular with the well-heeled afterwork crowd, this gastro bar features a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini maze of tea plants partitioning dining areas. The food – home-cooked European with an upmarket tweak – is good; the cocktails even better.

Once Upon A Time 32 Petchaburi Soi 17 | 02-252-8629 | 11am-11pm | $ This leaf y Thai restaurant packs in three old wooden buildings, streams, ponds, and a massive tropical garden that threatens to swamp the tightly placed, open-air tables. The food is simple Thai with an Isaan slant, and it’s genial, peaceful atmosphere the antithesis to Panthip Plaza (the restaurant is in the soi opposite).

The Great American Rib 32 Sukhumvit Soi 36 | 02-661-3801| www.greatrib.com | daily 11:30am11:30pm | $ Thais and farang alike rave about this open-air oasis of authentic, downhome barbeque. From juicy ribs and burgers to original buffalo wings, the dishes here are made all the more interesting by the Cuervo shots, draft Heineken and margarita pitchers at rock-bottom prices.

Kin Lom Chom Saphan 11/6 Samsen Soi 3, Samsen Rd | 02-628-8382 | www.khinlom chomsa phan.com | 11am-2am | $ Roughly translating as ‘enjoy a breeze, view a bridge’, this sprawling al fresco joint with views of Bangkok’s Rama VIII Bridge is the perfect spot to do just that. It’s convivial and casual, with diners sitting German beer hall style on wooden benches while they enjoy succulent Thai/Chinese seafood.

Reflections Soi Ari 3, Paholyothin 7 | BTS Ari | 02-270-3341 | w w w.ref lec tions par tyrestaurant. co m | 4. 30 pm midnight | $ Chilling in the garden at this detached 1970s Thai house on Ari Soi 3, while flash cars coast home to their gated old-money townhouses, is a favourite pastime of ours. The Thai food is of the piquant and not-to-pricey sor t and the garden about as wacky as the candy-coloured house.

The View 2 52 5 C h a r o e n K rung Rd, Bang K ho Laem | 026 8 9 -13 93 ~7 | 5pm-1am | $ Sometimes i t ’s all about the name. That is the case with this amiable-yet-mammoth nightspot perched on a breezy bend of the Chao Phraya River. Like its Chiang Mai sister restaurant, The View is a favourite of young, hip Thais who prefer cold beer, feisty Thai food and a cozy snuggle over the throbbing bass of downtown’s nightclubs.

La Bottega Di Luca Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-204-1731 | w w w. l a b o t t e g a bangkok .com | 11 : 3 0 a m - 3 p m , 5pm-midnight | $$ At this ever-so trendy Italian there’s a slick outdoor ter r ace wi th lush leather sofa s and, should the heavens unleash, a retractable canopy. The menu is simple, featuring homemade pastas, fresh-baked breads, pastries and more; the wine cellar home to over 250, mostly Italian, labels.

Spring Summer 199 Soi Sukhumvit 49 (Promsri) | BTS Phrom Phong | 02392-2747 | www. s p r i n g s u m m e r. com | 11:30am2:30pm, 6pm-11pm | $$ Dining on oversized cushions, looking up at the sky, grass tickling your feet... This all-to-rare combination awaits you at yuppie-favourite Spring Summer. Though Thai-leaning, the menu has celebrity owner Phol Tantasathien’s pan-Asian tastes stamped all over it, featuring dishes like calamari with spicy peanut sauce.

To Die For H1 Place 998, end of Sukhumvit 55 (Thong Lo) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-3814714 | 11:30ammidnight | $$ Locatedat the far end of chichi Thong Lor, To Die For has a cool L-shaped, loft-like interior that looks out on the real prize – an outdoor cou r t y a r d li t te r e d w i t h plu m p, comfor ting daybeds. Hip, in-theknow tourists and a young hi-so crowd lean back on to them to flirt, sip on sophisticated drinks and gnosh on Bangkok ’s version of hip food: European with Thai twists.

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Ten Sui Though it’s uncivilized to talk about money, there are exceptions. The moments just before you embark on a meal at Ten Sui is one of them: modeled on a ryotei (an exclusive, referral-only type of Japanese restaurant where discreet business lunches take place, often in the company of a Geisha), this place is pricey, one for the special occasion or expense account only. Let us temper this warning, however, by saying that if money’s no issue you won’t regret it. Ten Sui is hands-down one of the best traditional Japanese restaurants in town, offering first-rate hospitality and food in an attractive gated Zen garden setting. The second the sliding wooden doors are peeled back by the kimono-clad female staff, revealing a converted Thai townhouse with range of seating options (sushi/sashimi bar; conservatory with leather sofas; private tatami mat rooms upstairs), you know this place is the real deal. And the food confirms it… Ten Sui is seriously finicky about everything it serves, sourcing all its ingredients from Japan, and even presenting the dishes, as is the face-gaining Japanese tradition, on different lacquerware in different seasons. The affordable lunch set menus here offer the best value, and you can order off a lavish a la carte menu; however if you’re going to splurge we recommend you call ahead to book a multi-course set, or kaiseki, menu. Ten Sui’s specialty, these can be customised to your tastes and budget, and typically star a selection of small, balanced seasonal dishes that you’ve probably never heard of, let alone tried. During our kaiseki – 10 WHERE Sukhumvit Soi 16 | courses of immaculately 02-663-2281 crafted and presented OPEN 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm culinary art – highlights we PRICE $$$$ were anticipating included the melt-in-your-mouth blue fin otoro sashimi, a big winter oyster and the succulent Matsusaka Gyu beef, cooked by patrons on a primitive hot-stone grill. Those we weren’t were the fleeting and more obscure Autumn dishes, like the touyama kaki dohfu, a savoury clear soup with oyster and egg dumplings, white tree jellyfish and mitsuba honewort. Another standout was the agemono: deep-fried scallop dumplings, garnished with pumpkin, lotus roots and burdock. Resembling forest detritus, with all its melancholy associations, it was as close as it gets to lyrical poetry on a plate – and, after the first hesitant bite, delicious to boot. Washing down this lot with belly warming glugs of top-notch imported sake, it struck us that, aside from the expense, Ten Sui may be too avant garde for some. After all, if your idea of decent Japanese food is a sorry looking sushi platter from one of Bangkok’s cheap mall chains, then enjoying elaborate dishes similar to those a picky feudal lord may have feasted on (simmered tilefish stuffed with grated yam and garnished with edible Chrysanthemum, etc) is a whole different ball game. If you’re not up to the challenge, stick to the familiar a la carte fare, or, better still, head back to your local branch of Oishi, where you belong.

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Crepes & Co.

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A Bangkok institution, Crêpes & Co. has been serving up some of the best cuisine in town since it opened in 1996. Founded out of a desire to serve the very best crêpes in Thailand – if not all of Asia – over the years it has expanded on that original remit to become one of the city’s best-loved restaurants, a place as popular for its all-day brunch as it is for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s no wonder when you consider that they have more than 350 dishes to choose from. The place represents the collective spirit of three brothers: Philippe, Olivier and Serge. Of Swiss-Bulgarian parentage, their childhood was spent living in Morocco, Spain and Greece. It’s this unique heritage that informs both the menu and styling of Crêpes & Co, and is the inspiration behind their rotating Mediterranean themes (December features Moroccan specialties). WHERE 88 Thonglor Soi 8, 02-726-9398 / 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12, 02-653-3990; www.crepes.co.th BTS / MRT Thong Lo / Asok OPEN 10am-11pm/ 9am-midnight Located on Sukhumvit Soi 12, the original branch is housed in an old Thai family home surrounded by a lush, tropical garden. Despite only having been around for 14 years, it already feels like it’s been around for decades – a long-established local favourite. In a delicious contrast, their second location is on the chichi street of Thong Lor, a well-heeled road synonymous with style and taste. Occupying a corner of Eight Thonglor, home to serviced apartments and an up market mall, this Crêpes bangkok 101

& Co is modern and sleek, but still retains the friendly atmosphere, personal touch, accessible menu and welltrained staff the original is known for. Attracting a mixed clientele of couples, tourists, families, guests from the upstairs serviced apartments, and longstanding regulars, diners have a choice of sitting in the air-con cooled interior or enjoying the outdoor patio – an enticing option during the winter months. The menu, however, remains the same as that on Soi 12: year-round bestsellers include the multi-course all-day brunches (B250-B490, take your pick from the Oriental, Coffee & Co, Breakfast Club and hugely filling The Brunch sets), as well as a la carte options (kids menu available), and of course dozens of creative crêpes. From the current promotional menu, one of the more popular selections is the Casablanca Appetizer Set (B390), an excellent mix of Moroccan briouattes, merguez, three peppercorn salad, tchoutchouka, pita bread and harissa that is perfectly accompanied by a pot of delicious Mint Tea (B85). Other drinks to consider include fresh fruit juices (B80) or lassis (B95), while there’s also an excellent range of wines, beers, cocktails and their signature homemade sangria (B130). Indeed, nearly all the dishes on the menu either come from traditional family recipes or treasured childhood memories – it’s this dedication to authenticity and only the finest ingredients that stands them apart. Of course, an excellent menu is nothing without good hospitality – something they’ve also perfected.

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Neighbourhood Nosh: sukhumvit soi 31

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Each month we stake out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the nitty gritty in an easily digestible, bite-size format.

Sukhum

vit Soi 3

Fat Fish Bistro

Soi 29

vit

Soi 33

Soi 27

Sukhum vit Soi 3 1

oi Sawasdi, also known as Sukhumvit 31, has received its lion’s share of face time in the news in recent times since it’s home to Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva. It’s only fitting that the road leading towards his house is dotted by a 'United Nations' of restaurants featuring cuisines from all corners of the globe. Entering from Sukhumvit road, you will come upon Himali Cha-Cha (1) located about 50m down the soi on your right-hand side. The flagship store of this restaurant that boasts three branches around town, Himali Cha Cha has been dishing out delicious Indian fare in Bangkok for over 30 years. A little further down on the left is Bella Napoli (2), whose wood-fired thin crust pizzas are always ranked towards the top, if not at the very top, of the capital’s very large mountain of Italian-style pizzerias. You can’t go too far in downtown Bangkok without running into a Japanese restaurant and Soi 31 is no different, boasting one of the hottest sushi bars in town, Isao (3). Run by perhaps the city’s only female sushi chef, Karuna Sangaroon, this modern joint rolls up creative maki sushi 72

Head next door to Cherubin (4) for a sinfully sweet hit of chocolate at this Teddy Bear filled café. Their addictive French Chocolate Cake is utterly irresistible. Cross the street to Cassia Café (5) if you’re around before dinner time for some afternoon tea. They serve up some delicious scones as well as a rotating menu of desserts to go with some heavier European fare. Next is Fat Fish Bistro (6), which always has a fresh catch in hand. For something completely different, swing into Hard Times (7). This curiously named bar, which bares every resemblance to an Irish boozer, is in fact a Japanese spin on the traditional European pub, that instead sports a menu full of classic Izakaya fare.

There’s no need to be alarmed by the barricades and men on duty once you hit the mid-soi intersection, because you might risk missing out on Brown Eyes (8) on the northwest corner of the junction. This Japanese eatery features healthy gluten free cooking and baked goods, along with interesting creations like pizzas using buckwheat soba dough. If you’re looking for something a little extra special, turn left at the junction and continue down towards Le Vendome (9) one of the finest French restaurants in town. But if you’re looking to unwind, Suea Non Kin (10), at the very end of this soi is the perfect place for some drinks, and perhaps some spicy Thai food.

Suea Non Kin

Le Vendome

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Food courts Much as we love cheap and tasty street food, non-wobbly tables and a little air-conditioning can go a long way. Check out these shopping mall favourites CentralWorld: Flavour (7F, 10am-10pm) has some cracking options at good prices. Figure on around B50 a dish. Also in CentralWorld, on the seventh floor of Zen department store, is Food Loft (10am-10pm). Easily the most successful attempt at a mid-range food court, this plush, glass-walled offers up top-notch international fare. Emporium: Probably the nicest food court on the mall-beat is the Food Court (5F, 10am-9:45) at Emporium. Clean, decked out like a library and with pleasant views over Benjasiri Park, the Food Court has lots of good Thai/ Chinese standards priced at B50-60. MBK: The Food Center (6F, 10am-9pm) is cheap, chaotic and jam-packed with yummy Thai grub. Most dishes are around the B40 mark. Just below the Food Centre is the Fifth Food Avenue (5F, 10am-9:30pm), a more upmarket collection of independent eateries (figure B150 for a dish). Paragon: You can stare at a table-top aquarium while you munch your noodles; but you’re paying about B70 for those noodles. And they ain’t all that. The Food Court (B1, 10am-10pm) dining hall gets packed too, making seats hard to come by and the atmosphere far from relaxing. Siam Centre: If you have a thing for molded plastic seats and vivid orange colour schemes, then baby, you’ve just hit the motherlode. Migraine-inducing décor aside, Food for Fun (4F, 9am-9pm) is a cheap and cheerful spot where B40-50 gets you a huge plate of decent Thai food

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restaurants Thai BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) 233 South Sathorn Road | 02-673-9353 | BTS Surasak | www.blueelephant.com | 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm | $$ Ever since the Blue Elephant Group opened its restaurant here, Thai food connoisseurs have been filling this styling place up night after night. Been to other Blue Elephants before? Here the setting alone – a striking century old mansion – sets this branch apart. A few step from the Surasak BTS station, the classy interior combines colonial décor, wicker chairs and tones of fresh flowers into an ideal spot for romantic tête-à-têtes. While popular with tourists, the number of satisfied Thai customers who dine here can only be a good sign. Many dishes have been globalised, Western ingredients transforming them into something extraordinary. Foie gras with tamarind sauce, scallops mangosteen salad and the massaman lamb are must-tries. Likewise more traditional dishes, many of which – like the tom jew (beef in herbal soup) for instance – use recipes and ingredients from the Royal Palace. Pair them with the hefty Thai wines. Aspiring chefs should consider their on-site cooking schoolmight as well get your money’s worth.

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SOI POLO FRIED CHICKEN (map C4) 137/1-2 Soi Polo,Withayu Road, Lumphini | 02-655-8489 | 7am-10pm| $ “The best in town.” “Whips KFC’s butt!” In this city’s Thai dish hall of fame, the super tasty fried chicken at this cheap Thai restaurant near Lumpini Park has pride of place, getting plaudits from Thais and foreigners alike. At lunchtimes office

Blue Elephant

workers flock here to get their fix. We’ve seen them, licking their lips as plates of the tender, golden-brown meat covered in a blanket of deepfried crispy garlic are ferried in from the kitchen a few doors down; giving the evil eye when they arrive at the next table. And there’s more. Though the chicken, best eaten with fingerfuls of their spot-on sticky rice, gets the rave reviews, other notable dishes here include the nam tok salad with big, succulent strips of beef, and the fat, juicy tod man pla (fish cakes). Some dishes, like Isaan classic som tum (spicy papaya salad), come out too sweet by our reckoning, but it's nothing a bit of clumsy Thai can't put right; and besides, there's none of the grittiness (i.e. offal-y bits) or car fumes you usually encounter out on the street. Don’t expect anything lavish: the closest this airconditioned shophouse with stainless steel chairs and vinyl flooring comes to decoration is a couple of bored looking “pretties”, or beer waitresses

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CHOTE CHITR (map A3) 146 Phraeng Phuton | 02-221-4082 | 11am- 9pm (closed Sun) | $ This it it – that culinary Holy Grail, the hole in the wall with heavenly food. Chote Chitr is set in a scenic neighbourhood near the Giant Swing – a lucky thing, because finding this restaurant can required the orienteering skills of a seasoned city survivalist. And then: a narrow shotgun space, cooks and dogs alike sprawled out on the floor – this is the home of the finest mee krob on the land? Indeed. Sit your sweaty self down and tuck in to this gorgeous melding of contrasts. Greaseless, whisper-light noodles packed with sour-tart citrus flavours from the peel of som saa fruit. Chote Chitr’s version kicks up its heel at all the syrupy nightmare mee globs out there. Banana-flower salad is revelation, fried fish is dressed to kill in garlic, and the eggplant salad is mysterious spicy, smokily sweet. Simple surrounds, celestial food – what could be more Thai than that?

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River Dining Cruises

Grand Pearl

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (ShangriLa) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental). Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last two to three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. Manohra

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Food&Drink Blue Velvet

International Blue Velvet (map E4) 105/2 Thonglor Soi 5 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-392-7869-70 | 6pm-1am | $$ As soon as you step onto Blue Velvet’s drawbridge, you know you’re not in Bangkok anymore. Inside this castle bar-cum-restaurant, dim lighting and the smooth sound of Nina Simone invite you to get comfy on big blue velvet couches. With three other eateries under her belt, co-owner Rika Dila certainly knows how to pull off food and design, mixing a distinct medieval atmosphere with a contemporary twist. Wander through the two-floors equipped with back stairs, brick archways and secret rooms and then settle down to eat. Half created by French Embassy Chef Charlie, the menu boasts a mouthwatering selection of meat and seafood. We started with a crowd favorite, fried calamari, and worked our way into a tuna and octopus salad. We then topped it off with the highly recommended main course, Dory Parcel. All the while we were sipping on one of their four signature cocktails, passion fruit and Grey Goose, which even makes drinking feel healthy. In sum, be prepared to spend a pretty penny at Blue Velvet, but know that like all fairy tales it will have a happy ending.

FRENCH PHILIPPE RESTAURANT (map D4) 20/15-17, Sukhumvit Soi 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-4577-8 | www.philipperestaurant.com | Mon-Sat 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm (Sun 6pm-10pm) | $$$ Tucked away on a side street near the Phrom Phong BTS station, Philippe Restaurant provides a welcome dose of French charm to an area thronged with Japanese eateries. Since 1998, Philippe Peretti has been feeding the city’s happy Francophiles with defiantly unfusioned, fine traditional fare, including foie gras, served in great silky lobes, hearty country stews with oxtail and beef tongue, and raspberry mille-feuille, layers of perfect pastry stacked with fruit and a gorgeous buttermilk crème. The décor may be a bit staid, but it doesn’t detract from the beauty of elegantly done French classics and the very correct service, which is attentive without being hovery. Come for the B350 lunch deal – a three-course steal, perfect for a leisurely business lunch, or stay for dinner instead.

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ITALIAN BASILICO (map D4) 8 Sukhumvit Soi 33 | BTS Phrom Phong | www.basilicopizza.com | 02-662-2323 | Mon-Thu 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-11:30pm; Fri-Sun 11am-11.30pm | $$ Bangkok wants for Italian restaurants like the Sahara wants for sand, but Basilico is one of those places that succeeds by concentrating on doing one thing well. Very well. Home to this reviewer’s nomination for best pizza in town, the huge, informal Sukhumvit 33 branch revels in checked tablecloths and more loyal customers than you could shake a giant pepper mill at. The pasta might not be anything to tell Mama about, but with over 50 delectably thin, crispy pizzas on the menu we’ll let that slip. The vast main dining room is ideal for groups and families who can enjoy watching the pizza chefs tossing their pies into the sky, and there’s a quieter back room for those in the mood for amore. There’s now a second Basilico branch on Sukhumvit 20, and a third on Soi Ari.

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Philippe Restaurant

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Los Cabos

Mexican LOS CABOS (map D3) 1 Sukhumvit Soi 14 | BTS Asok (exit 4) | www.loscabosbangkok.com | 02-6533900 | 11am-11pm | Price $$ Easily the city’s most striking and sprawling Mexican, Los Cabos occupies a big, century-old timber townhouse that sits just off Sukhumvit Road, amid tatty low-rises and gnarled banyan trees. Formerly the French ambassador’s residence, now a pastel painted Cantina decked out in tropical Mexicana, the place is the brainchild of one Rod Vaughn, the San Diegan chef who co-founded Bangkok’s much-loved Great American Rib Company. Alongside fajitas, tacos, enchiladas and “big-asyour-face” buritos, he serves up a selection of North-of-the-border, Baja-style specials, using imported ingredients like ancho chilies and his outdoor barbeque when needed. Some disappoint, like the watery baked oysters with spinach Chipotle salsa and parmesan cheese glaze; others are very good, most notably the rack of smoked pork ribs. Dry rubbed with brown sugar, pepper, cumin and other spices, then grilled on a mesquite wood skillet for five hours, they have a delicious smoky tang. They, like all specials, come with two sides (choose from spicy fries, refried Mexican beans or rice). As with all young restaurants there’s room for improvement here, but the head-turning setting, penchant for special deals (check their regularly updated Facebook page: ‘Los Cabos Mexican Grill’) and feisty margaritas, made with XXX Siglo Terinta tequila, more than justify a visit.

ลอส คาบอส สุขุมวิท ซ.14

bangkok 101

Vietnamese Saigon Rimsai ((map E4) 108/4, Sukhumvit Soi 65 | 02-7142207 | www.saigonrimsai.com | 11am-10pm | $ Saigon Rimsai must be doing something right – it’s packed with Thais. Part of the appeal is the space – warmly lit, with a view over the tranquil garden-seating area, it makes everything pretty. The fresh food is served up in generous and photogenic portions – fried spring rolls are crisp and succulent, ricepaper wrappers are supple rather than sticky, vegetables have satisfying snap. Rimsai initially lulls with its lovely décor and quality ingredients, but diners may find themselves snoozing at the table – service is sweet but slow, and where’s the kick from the dipping sauces and spicing? Great Vietnamese cooking balances freshness and funk, delicacy and full-bodied fl avor. Rimsai only delivers half of the equation – welldone though that half may be. The many Thai ladies dining here don’t seem to mind, but we can’t help but think that with dining potential like this, it’s a pity to be just pretty.

ไซ่ง่อน ริมไทร สุขุมวิท 65

Saigon Rimsai

food & drink

Food&Drink

brunching

runching is big business in Bangkok, with both family-friendly and adults-only offerings to choose from. However, no matter if you’re looking to cure your hangover, chill out to live music or simply soak up the sun, the city serves up something to suit all tastes. Here we sample some of the best.

featured

The Eugenia brunch

eggs Benedict

WHERE The Eugenia, 267 Soi Sukhumvit 31, Wattana, 022-599-011; www.theeugenia.com. BTS Phrom Phong OPEN Sun 11am-3pm PRICE B1,490++

When it comes to brunch (and life), small is sometimes better. And so it proved to be at The Eugenia one sunny Sunday. Although it was only opened a few years ago, this late 19th century boutique property exudes old-world style and romance. The interior décor of the 12 suite hotel is full of colonial-era furnishings, including pieces from the Raj period in India, British Burma and French Indochina. With muted tones, the effect is understated, but all the more grand for it. Brunch at The Eugenia is taken in the 30-seat D.B. Bradley Dining Room, which faces outwards onto the hotel’s emerald green pool and outdoor timber sala, located in a rear courtyard. The room itself is named after an American missionary physician who lived in then Siam from 1835 to 1873. During his time here, the remarkably productive doctor was an advisor to King Mongkut and his successor Chulalongkorn, introduced a successful vaccination against smallpox, and founded the country’s first ever newspaper, the Bangkok Recorder. As befits the room’s name, the menu serves a line of well prepared Western dishes. Following a selection of pastries (accompanied by pots of chive cream cheese and homemade marmalade), the three course set menu (B1,490++ with one glass of sparkling wine, coffee or tea and freshly squeezed orange juice), begins with your selection of eggs. For us, the eggs Benedict (from a choice of ham or salmon) and the Croque Madame (crisp baked brioche with ham and Swiss cheese, topped with fried eggs and Mornay sauce), lush, rich and dripping with goodness, were the perfect dishes to get things underway. The second course presented an enticing array of delicious-sounding options, from which we selected an excellent take on the classic oysters Rockefeller (baked New Zealand oysters with spinach and sour cream), and the more unusual, but nonetheless enjoyable shiitake mushroom and duck liver ravioli with truffle foam. After two filling courses, we still had dessert to come. For our ‘Ending’, as the menu categorised the last course – we were so full the description wasn’t that far off the mark. Still, we couldn’t turn down the thick and chewy Belgian waffles (topped with a generous amount of chocolate sauce, passion fruit sauce and coconut cream) and sweet cheese blintzes (cheese-filled crepes draped in mixed berry sauce). The former is a gooey, sweet mess loved the world over; while the latter is a Ukrainian dish popularised in the US by immigrants – in this case served with a tasty twist. Barely managing to finish, we sat back with a coffee and reflected. In sum, if you’re looking for a huge buffet spread, multiple cooking stations, and crowds of diners, The Eugenia is not your place. However, if you’re in search of a cosy, low-key, upmarket atmosphere, with a touch of history and a taste of refinement, this is it.

รร.ยูจีเนีย ซ.สุขุมวิท 31

food & drink

bangkok 101

Buffet Venues ■ TASTE Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | 6am – 11pm | Breakfast B765net, Lunch 990net, Dinner B1,295net ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | noon-2.30pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ Panorama Restauarant Pan Pacific Bangkok | 02-632-9000 | 6:30am – 10:30am, 11:30am – 2:30pm | Breakfast 695 net, Lunch 690++ ■ No.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ Lord jim’s buffet Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ Orchid Café Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ Citi Bistro Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10pm | lunch B650net, dinner B1,300net

all you can eat

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

featured

MIYABI

buffet

Shop a lot, eat a lot – that’s the name of the game along fashion and food boutique lined Siam Square. When you’ve done the former, consider doing the latter at Miyabi: this teen-hip Japanese restaurant – all blond-wood furnishings and swirling, pop-arty murals of samurai – offers decent all-you-can-eat deals. A tasty shabushabu (DIY hotpot) costs B359 but in our opinion the slightly dearer yakiniku buffet (i.e. the DIY grilling of raw meat and veg over a charcoal griddle) pips it. B439 buys you 90 minutes grill time, as well as endless garlic rice, green tea or Pepsi refills. However, it’s the high-quality meat and veg that impress most here. Pop your self-cooked sliver of WHERE Siam Square Soi 4 marbled beef, river prawn or cut of fresh salmon (map C3), 02-252-6516 home, and you’ll discover it tastes as succulent BTS Siam and fresh as it looks. Ditto the asparagus, OPEN 11am-11pm eringi mushrooms and other vegetables – no PRICE Yakiniku B439net, dehydrated greens that have been ageing at the Shabu B285net,Yakiniku & back of the fridge here. Moreover, the dipping Shabu B472net (incl. Pepsi sauces are total scene stealers – the lime and or tea) chilli notes of the nam jim provides the perfect foil to the seared seafood; and the thick garlic mayonnaise goes well with just about everything. Want some suds to wash it down with? Go after 5pm, when an extra B99 buys unlimited glasses of Asakhi beer (and for two and a half hours). Stretcher home not included.

มิยาบิ สยามสแควร์ ซ.4

bangkok 101

food & drink

Food&Drink

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

sweet treats

Sri

desserts featured

Located at the otherwise chichi K-Village, this simple open-air shop features traditional carved wooden designs and some of the most delicious desserts in town. Dan Bunnag, owner of Sri: Thai Delicatessen, is on a mission to preserve the nation’s best-loved desserts and snacks. When not in the kitchen, his team spends its time tracking down regional specialties, researching the recipes, and where to find the finest ingredients. Tasting sessions are then held until the dish is perfected. There’s a fascinating story behind every bite. Khao tom mud (B20), for instance, is a sticky rice-based sweet historically served to monks when they emerged from the monastery, following their confinement for the three months of lent. To make the dish, fried sticky rice is cooked with coconut milk, mixed with banana, topped with black beans, wrapped with banana leaves and then steamed before serving. However, the highlight at Sri is their kanom chun (B60), a dessert that can be found almost anywhere in the kingdom, but here is only made using natural ingredients. The nine-layered dish (nine is the most auspicious number in Thailand) made from coconut milk and sugar, draws its green hue from the extract of pandanus leaves. There’s also the unique candle-cooked kanom peia ob kwan tien (B60), a ping-pong sized ball of flour filled with crunchy soy beans that gives off a fragrant scent, and fuk tong sung khaya (B150), a giant-sized pumpkin pudding perfect for any celebration or holiday gift (only made on Saturdays and Sundays, or to order). If your sweet tooth only goes so far, then opt WHERE K-Village, Sukhumvit for one of their many snacks instead, such as kanom Soi 26, 089-923-5477; chor mouang (steamed flour sheets filled with minced www.kvillagebangkok.com. pork and coarsely-ground peanuts that get their BTS Phrom Phong. violet colour from the Anchan flower, B100) and OPEN Daily 9.30am-8.30pm. Malay-influenced curry puff (B20). Bunnag and his PRICE $ crew also have the ideal refreshments made from local herbs, including luo hang guay – a sugar-free fruit juice, as well as other favourites including gek huay (chrysanthemum tea), all yours for just B20. They go down a treat.

ร้านศรี สุขุมวิท 26 เค วิลเลจ

food & drink

bangkok 101

■ Sukhumvit Q BAR 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-2am The popular nightclub serves mighty tasty quesadilla, burgers, ribs, khao mun gai, beef jerky and schwarma and has a cool, al fresco terrace area perfect for enjoying them on with friends.

Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either.

■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare.

Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you.

■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you find yourself around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-391-9634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half restaurant, half art gallery with innovative Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.96) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.62). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Mayompuri 22 Chakraphong Rd | 02-629-3883 | until 1am | www.mayompuri.com Enjoy garden dining amidst colonial architecture, from a menu that serves a selection of Thai and Western dishes. Tom Yum Kung 9 Trokmayom | Off Khao San Rd. towards Police Station (Look for the big sign) | 02-629-1818 | until 2am | www.tomyumkungkhaosan.com Reasonably priced Thai food.

Coyote on Convent Sivadon Building | 1/2 Convent Rd | 02631-2325 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Tex-Mex Fare with an endless list of margaritas.

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier.

Bug and Bee18 Silom Rd. | 02-2338118 | BTS Sala Daeng | open 24 hours | www.bugandbee.com Four storey café offers up Thai and fusion dishes like curried crab crêpes.

Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Though it may not be as smooth as silk, the Thai and International food is fine.

bangkok 101

late-night dining

food & drink

Sunrise Tacos

Bug and Bee

Food&Drink

wine

Glass by Giusto Joined at the hip to Guisto, a gloriously designed dining compound right smack in the heart of Sukhumvit, ultra-modern sister-site Glass boasts a wine selection whose sheer magnitude will probably pop some eyeballs. Venture to this slick, smart joint for a full dining experience, where Sommelier Guillo and Head Chef Fabio have worked hard to create wine dinners to thrill all your senses. As you thumb through the restaurant’s tempting menu they’ll be more than pleased to help you pair perfect combinations like smoked salmon with Prosecco or Tasmanian Lamb with Rosso de Conte Tasca d’Almerita. And there’s no need to dine and dash. This is a place to mellow post-meal, with 400 choices of old world and new world WHERE Giusto, 16 Sukhumvit offerings to peruse in the after-dinner 23, Soi Prasarnmitr (map D3) hours. The list is, unsurprisingly, heavy BTS Asok MRT Sukhumvit, on the Italian influences. If the whole 02-258-4321, 02-258-1159, bottle proves too decadent a proposition, www.giustobangkok.com) there are no less than 17 wines available OPEN 6pm-midnight by the glass starting from B300. Though the list is vast, it’s niftily charted by grape and region so your head won’t hurt from the range of choice. If you’re looking to spoil yourself silly, ask the waiter for the Wine of Kings, Barolo from Piedmont or, if you dare, a 1999 Romano dal Forno Amrone della Valpolicella from Verona. Both splendid vintages will surely make it a night to remember.

กุสโต้ สุขุมวิท ซ. 23

food & drink

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Discover more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

Terrace Experience why Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aperitivo is Italian italian aperitives italian tapas italian wines

happy wine hOurs from 5 to 7 p.m.

Italian Restaurant l Deli

Te l : 0 2 2 0 4 1 7 3 1 www.labottegabangkok.com bangkok 101

Sukhumvit Rd.

Soi 49

Thonglor

LA BOTTEGA di Luca

ottega

Soi 49/1 Terrace 49 Building

food & drink

Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Soi Cowboy (between sois 21 & 23). And voguish but amount of options – so much more than just the affordable hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. whisky-sippin’ urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot A night out here can easily have you flitting between sois of Thong Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.95) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.94), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.84. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can. The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.86), there’s something for all. Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here. Supperclub (p.82) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is – Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks. 84

nightlife

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

nightclubs

Bed Supperclub

Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no. Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

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TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4,Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping. ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 Q Bar

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am With its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, Bed Supperclub is a hugely successful hybrid, and a Bangkok icon: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past eight years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs them in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 1980s pop hits with house music. It’s time to go to bed.

เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

nightlife

bangkok 101

Calypso

Demo

Cabarets DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970-1 | 8pm1am | free (except one-off parties) Is Demo a sign of clubs to come in Thonglor? Or just a blip on the slickly gentrified area’s cookie-cutter nightclub factory line? Time will tell. In the meantime, we strongly suggest you check out this ramshackle tenement building turned gritty warehouse. Not only does it look like a venue you’d find in shabby, hipster-heaving East London. It sounds like one too: instead of mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast trendy nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school. Further boosting its streetcool hip quotient, 1980s Brooklynstyle graffiti covers the brick walls and a vintage white Toyota Celica gleams in one corner. They offer a huge range of (quite expensive) beers, shots and cocktails and, though it’s only recently opened, weekends are already packed out with an international crowd.

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808 (map D3) RCA, Block C | 02-203-1043 | MRT Praram 9 | www.808bangkok.com | 9am-late This slick nightclub – all imposing red lighting, exposed brick and steelcladding – has been a hit with clubbers bangkok 101

ever since it landed on RCA in 2007. The reason: the consistently worldclass line-up. Grandmaster Flash, James Lavelle and Derrick May to name but a few global DJ giants, have all rocked this post-industrial warehouse, aided in no small part by the ear-drum/ body/table rattling sound-system (watch that drink dance!). Head up to the balcony for a comfy leather perch, or gyrate with the diehards on the dancefloor. Entrance prices vary depending on which superstar is gracing the decks that night.

เอท โอ เอท อาร์ซีเอ บลอกซี

GLOW (map D3) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | www.glowbkk.com | 6pm-2am This boutique club, bar and lounge challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-to-night, with deep-house and electro looming large and no hip-hop (hurrah!). Foxy coyote girls, dancing on the bar, make queuing for drinks here something of a guilty pleasure. For more details on events and regular updates, check Glow’s very cool and up-to-date website.

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nightlife

MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Rd | 02-294-7381-2 | show time 7:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm) | B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ ถ.พระราม3

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ่ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

Panorama

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Balco (map B4) 5th FL River City Shopping Complex, Yota Road, Charoen Krung 30 | Si Phaya Pier | 084-928-6161 | 6pmlate, closed Mondays If coasting along the Chaophraya River on a dinner cruiser leaves you wanting, after disembarking the boat at the River City Shopping Complex, pop up to Balco Bar on its rooftop. This airy alfresco hangout offers farreaching views of all the action on this busy waterway, a good mix of friendly locals and tourists, and soothing music from bossa nova tunes to house beats as the night rolls on. Reasonably priced drinks (beer B80, cocktails B180, whiskey B1, 200) include interesting cocktail choices created by the bar’s owner. If your favorite drink is off the menu, request it and they’ll be happy to mix it for you. A good place for lovebirds and flocks of friends to sit back on the funky nest-shape chairs or couches, catch a breeze and that memorable Bangkok riverscape.

บัลโค ศูนย์การค้าริเวอร์ซิตี้ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16

Panorama (map C3) Pan Pacific Bangkok, Rama IV Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for interminably hot or drizzly nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter found in the partitioned area at the rear of the Pan Pacific’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and up over downtown – not quite breathtaking, but still very Bangkok.

รร. แพนแปซิฟิค ถ.พระราม 4

bangkok 101

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee.The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe.The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

รร. โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360 degree views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

Amorosa

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor Distil

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterraneanthemed Amorosa. The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or instead come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is also just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day spent temple hopping. And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant, The Deck, and six lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

bangkok 101

and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smartcasual dress code is enforced.

nightlife

Nightlife

hotel bars & nightclubs

Zuk Bar

Bamboo Chic

CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-255-6888 | www.cm2bkk.com | 6:30pm-2am The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s party cave par excellence still packs them in over a decade after it opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. Gone is the old karaoke complex, making room for pool tables and lounging space overlooking the big and quite 1980s looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) dancefloor. It’s mainstreamy all the way. DJs play Club 18-30-style dance-pop and bubbly live bands perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition (Simon Cowell would be impressed). Cheesy? Maybe, a bit; but still a fun (and always eye-opening) experience. International and Thai food, as well as a whopping great cocktail list that includes some made with Amaltery’s alcoholic ice-cream, is served.

รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ซ.6

Bamboo Chic (map C4) Le Meridien Bangkok 4F, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8888 | BTS Sala Daeng | www.lemeridienhotelbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Dim-tones and giant chandeliers set the tone for haute Sino-Nippon cuisine at Bamboo Chic, which is Le Meridien hotel’s dashing designer resto-bar. But Bangkok’s jetset have also taken a shine to what’s being served over at the arresting lime-florescent bar – innovative cocktails such as the Kyoto martini: a delectable blend of dry gin, midori, dry vermouth and lemon juice, served in a fishbowl glass. Highwattage smiles and slick service rounds off this voguish venue, as apt for postwork or pre-dancefloor tipples as it is a swanky dinner. Just steel yourself for a blast of cognitive dissonance upon arrival… Unfortunately, Patpong, the notorious neon sleazepit and tourist night market, is Bamboo Chic’s unscrupulous neighbour.

รร.เลอ เมอริเดียน กรุงเทพ ถ.สุรวงศ์ nightlife

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | MonSat 5pm-1am, Sun noon- midnight Hotel guests and clued-up suits enjoy zesty cocktails, creative canapés and an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquillity at this classy hotel bar. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the sultry look, mood and service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for heart-to-hearts. The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a sociable spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior. Quietly solicitous lady staff clad in silk serve while a DJ from Tues to Sat spins soulful tunes.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

CM2 CM2

bangkok 101

Spasso

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

THE GLAZ BAR (map C3) G/F, Plaza Athénée Bangkok, 61 Wireless Road (Witthayu Road), Lumpini | 02-650-8800; www. royalmeridienbangkok.com/ theglazbar | Daily 10am-2am Accessible from both the street and lobby, The Glaz Bar features a nightly mixture of hotel guests and locals in the know, attracted by its distinctive decor, nightly live entertainment and attentive service. With an intimate chic and cosmopolitan atmosphere, patrons flock here to enjoy a range of creative cocktails (including favourites Thai Tapas and Molecular Mixology), local and international beers, and a tantalising menu that includes tapas, salads, sandwiches and desserts. For armchair voyeurs, the outdoor terrace offers luxurious views of vibrant Wireless (Witthayu) Road, while you shouldn’t miss their popular ‘Cocktails and Cones’ networking events, which take place once a month (contact the bar for details). There’s also a live band that performs daily from 9pm to 1am.

รร. พลาซ่า แอนธินี ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

Club 87 Plus (map C3) Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-690-9087 | 6pm - 2am Bigger, sleeker and sexier, the Conrad hotel’s recently relaunched flagship nightspot has targeted its audience from the get-go. Don’t be expecting minimalist jungle or Ibiza-style foam par ties, but if you like to cut a little rug to tunes from the 1980s and 90s, this joint should do just fine. The main draw here is the band, Citybeat (Tues-Sun, 10pm2am). They know how to get a party going with their tried and tested repertoire of funked-up pop classics. Meanwhile, DJ 90 provides the soundtrack for the daily buy-oneget-one-free Happy Hour (6pm9.30pm), and takes centre stage on Monday evenings. Thursday is Ladies Night and Sunday’s Latin, while there is also a nifty new smoking lounge adjoining the venue.

โรงแรมคอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

SPASSO (map C3) Lower lobby, Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-254-1234 | www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | noon2:30pm, 6:30pm-2am After going strong for more than a decade, the mother of all live venues still doles out fantastic Italian food and cool bands.The food is so good lunches and brunches teem with high society types.Thai execs and bubbly after-work expats turn up from 7pm onwards to tuck into simple-soundings but firstclass Italian specialties; it’s a pretty good value, especially considering this is a five-star hotel joint. Whatever you’ll try, have it with what must be Bangkok’s best sangria. Come 10pm, diners thin out when the live band starts pumping out high-energy songs which get the dance floor heaving with a mixed, grown-up crowd – weekend nights can see people queuing up to get in.

แกรนด์ไฮแอทเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

The Glaz Bar

nightlife

Nightlife

bars Fat Gut’z 264, Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor) | 027-149-832 | www.fatgutz. com | 6pm-2am | $$$ | Food delivery available Don’t let the fish ‘n’ chips fool you; Fat Gut’z is not about the food. Already a place to see and be seen, this sleek saloon is packed nightly with a crowd of beautiful people, there to listen to live blues, indulge in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the already legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious sense of whimsy – here, the random fittings and industrial decor are replaced by straight lines and black-coloured, modern furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought in master New York mixologist Joseph Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 each), all named – and here’s the rub – after famous WWII shipwrecks. This nautical theme loosely ties in with the short menu, from which the most popular order is, of course, the fish ‘n’ chips (B320 for one person, B600 for two). Made from an old family recipe, it comes served in a wooden tub, turning a takeaway staple into finger food. Tucking in as we listened to the blues band play on the tiny stage, and observed the hi-so crowd sipping politely on their aquatic-inspired cocktails, it was obvious that this bar is an unusual, albeit successful blend of ingredients.

แฟท กัซ สุขุมวิท ซ.55

Fat Gut’z

WTF (map E4) 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 |BTS Thonglor | 02626-6246 | BTS Thong Lo | www.wtfbangkok.com | Tues-Sun 6pm1am (gallery open from 3pm) “It’s just like a bar in BarcelonaBerlin-Brooklyn” (take your pick), say punters when they enter WTF. The tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs apparently salvaged from an old Czech café. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo, feta salad and pork fried-rice steamed in lotus leaf. It’s more intimate and much, much smaller, but WTF definitely owes a DNA strand or two to Raindogs, the creative social club that shutdown earlier this year. And that’s a good thing. Just like it, there are occasional live gigs, edgy art exhibitions (in two bare white rooms upstairs), and, on busy nights, a mix of local indie hipsters, journos and art-scensters to chew the fat with.

ดับเบิลยูทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ.51

nightlife

Hyde & Seek (map C3) 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 02-168-5152 | BTS Phloen Chit | www.hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am | $$ Two bright lights of Thailand’s F&B scene opened this stylish downtown gastro bar: a dead-ringer for one of those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is fuelled by Chanond Purananda, a partner in Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgianinfluenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and the beginnings of a mini-maze of tea plants to partition dining areas. In sum, Hyde & Seek is a rare entry into the still huge market for high quality drinks and food at middle prices. Because of this, it gets very busy with the rich and powerful looking most nights, so best book ahead.

แอทธินีเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี

bangkok 101

The Iron Fairies

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am This shabby open-air streetside joint is a real Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety island hole-inthe-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. CC’s is the kind of place where it’s easy to fall into conversation with other patrons; whether it’s because you’re sheltering from a rain shower together or end up sharing one of the few tables. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

THE IRON FAIRIES (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor | www.theironfairies.com This recent arrival injects a healthy dose of creativity into the city’s nightlife scene and is probably the coolest bar in Bangkok right now. It’s an oddball cross between a curiosity-cum-antiques shop — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — and homage to the 1920s. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables impressing inebriated revellers with his slight of hand, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the castiron spiral staircase. The venue has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam set with a touch of the bordello. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a wellmixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the range of burgers, which are served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, are divine.

ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ

bangkok 101

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm1am, closed on the second and fourth Sundays of every month Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place.The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnameseinspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues. The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

nightlife

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02- 286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serveyourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Put it this way: if you’re looking for a chocolate Martini and a plate of Catalan-inspired tapas, you’re definitely in the wrong place. Yet, because or despite of this, it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a wbenevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom –and watch the night unfold.

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

Nightlife

jazz clubs

Bamboo Bar

THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Jazzy Brunch. Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, The Living Room mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction at the Diplomat Bar is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ 94

nightlife

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok institution is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the former Oriental, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody here sips on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must, even if just the once. รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล bangkok 101

Niu’s on Silom

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well worth crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jaw-dropping jazz venue. Since July its dressy crowd has been soaking up that camera-grabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of Micki L Murphy. Her sultry renditions – spanning jazz to bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed. รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every bangkok 101

Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for both beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Pleasant outside seating is also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club.The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

nightlife

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club Is Bangkok’s newest and brightest jazz club location, Where you can enjoy live performances daily, which include International musicians and some of the hottest local musicians.

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club

Wine Bar & Restaurant 661 Floor 1-2 Silom Road (cnr Soi 19) Tel: 0 2266 5333-4 Daily 5pm-1am; Free valet parking reservation@niusonsilom.com www.niusonsilom.com

Nightlife

live music

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do theThai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

OVERTONE (map D3) 29/70-72 RCA Zone D | 02-2030423 | www.overtone.tv | Closed Mon/Tues Overtone has what every venerable rock club needs: a wall of fame. And it’s a good one. Megadeth and Jimmy Page have both graced Overtone with their straggly-haired presence, as has pretty much every lightening fingered axe-grinder in the Kingdom. Not bad 96

for a live music cave tucked along RCA, a club-strip that usually does a good line in brash hip-hop superclubs. Inside, bands rock out while vintage Les Paul and Fender Stratocaster guitars, presented like hallowed museum pieces in backlit wall alcoves, look on. The orange-themed décor is a little more suave than your average rock dive, but the steady line-up of hard rock acts intermingled with the odd night of jazz, indie, blues or ska one of the most intriquing in town. Check their website for the latest.

โอเวอร์โทน ถ.อาร์ซีเอโซนดี

Nomads 106-108 Silom Soi 4, 02-266-3552 | Tue-Sun 5pm-late A live music bar located just a few minutes from Sala Daeng Skytrain could be just what the doctor ordered. Nomads is a beer and boogie joint with a friendly owner and nightly bands including long-time favourites the Soi Dog Blues Band and the Fugitives, a sax and trumpet-led five piece doing soul, funk and jazz. Sundays is a band jam, with everyone welcome, while the Tuesday open mike is a more acoustic opportunity to try out your new songs. Not the easiest place to find, the small square room is located right at the end of Soi 4. Beers start at B90, cocktails from B100 and there’s a snacky menu of dishes like wings, spaghetti and spicy Thai salads.

โนแมด สีลม ซ.4 nightlife

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

Bangkok Rocks (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

รร.เดอะคีย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.19

Overtone

Brown Sugar

bangkok 101

Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm-1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage (here the choice of name becomes a little clearer) it’s a pure sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Parking Toys has a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can variously catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. With no nearby BTS or MRT station, it’s a hike, but well worth the effort. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s.

ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์

bangkok 101

Parking Toys

Tawandaeng German Brewery (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | If there’s one place that slaps you round the chops and screams “you’re in Thailand!” it’s Tawandang. This humungous, barrel-shaped beer hall with decent micro-brewed beer takes its cue from Deutschland. But the live music and unchecked sanuk up to 1,600 lary revelers enjoy here each night here is something very Thai. Its laidback early on, with everyone chomping on plates of the famous deep fried pork knuckle and German sausage, among other decent Thai, Chinese and German dishes. By 10pm though, when bellies are full, the lager’s kicked in and the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam performances by the famous Fong Nam houseband and guests are at full pelt, everybody is on the feet and the place going bananas. Tipsy tourists clink glasses with every stranger in reach, while middle-aged mums shake their tooshes beside ladyboys. In sum, it offers great, goofy, love-for-Bangkok reaffirming fun. Reservations are a must for large groups.

โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3 nightlife

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride you’ve stumbled on, while inside bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything Van Halen and Motorhead covers.

เดอะ ร๊อคผับ ถ.พญาไท

TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 www.titaniumbangkok. com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from.An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม ไอซ์บาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

Nightlife

nightlife areas

Hemlock

PHra athit rd

Police Station

Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of dek naew (trendy teens) and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young locals bounce along to excellent live ska. A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite, Zest [4] focuses on live Brit Rock, while Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down another alley, is a retro-cool cocktail house. More full-on, The Club [6] is a popular techno palace offering free UV glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an open-sided rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till the wee hours. For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at 1 6 3 2 rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club Burger kHao sanroad rd Khao San [10] also deserves a mention. King 5

Ekkamai & Thonglor

Funky Villa

new phetchaburi rd

Ekkamai Soi 28

Soi 20

Soi 16

Thong Lor Soi 10

Ekkamai Soi 10

Soi 1

Sukhumvit RD

Soi 21

In recent years these parallel boulevards have embraced sweeping gentrification and emerged as upmarket playgrounds for the young, studiously cool zeitgeist follower, be they celebrity, model, arty type, uni student or slick professional. Aside from their surfeit of luxury condos, boutique lifestyle emporiums, designer spas and restaurants both are studded with trendy nightspots catering to a mixed international and Thai clientele. New ones pop up every few months, as if to keep hipsters on their toes and match that season’s colours. For now Muse [1], Funky Villa [2] and Demo [3] – three giganto clubs on Thonglor Soi 10 – are all the rage, as is the unique Iron Fairies [4]. Meanwhile, scattered about are old-timers like Song Saleung [5], a recently refurbished and often heaving live music joint, and Shades of Retro [6] – a combo furniture-store café and hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd. Ekkamai’s main drag and side-streets are even better endowed party-wise. Curvaceous Curve [7] and glamorous Jet Metropolitan [8] are big, top-shelf joints offering the usual failsafe blend of live Thai music and DJ’s spinning R’n’B. As the scene stands both are big draws, though the crowds are so gleefully fickle that could change in a Bangkok minute. Track them to the cool club of the moment. Or try two 5 BTS Thong Lor that have achieved longevity: nightclub Nunglen [9] and Soi 55 (Thong lor) scruffy little bar Happy 6 4 Monday [10]. Pretty young 1 2 things bounce along to Thai 3 tunes in the former; while 7 9 media types (mostly aged 25 Soi 63 (Ekkamai) plus) hobnob while enjoying 8 10 low-key DJ sessions (May T BTS Ekkamai from Modern Dog etc). nightlife

bangkok 101

ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

road AL LO C

road

For a night of clubbing, Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music. Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] bangs out bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, slick granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [4], a red-brick warehouse with a crisp sound system and sets by global DJ gods. And opposite sits Cosmic Cafe [5], where indie types catch up with pals and nod appreciatively to live bands. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] hosts some of the best rock, reggae or blues nights in town. There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a girls-only policy.

5 RCA road

1 2

Q Bar

Sukhumvit Soi 11

Soi 11

On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, pubs, bars and nightclubs tucked off Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with hedonist expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely. This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 10 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]: a spaceship-like club-cum-restaurant that attracts a dressy international crowd every night. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers 1 at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad 4 Bed Supperclub bigger than a 2 broom cupboard. Nest [4], a breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, is a more upscale option offering 5 laid-back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think 3 Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean Bangkok you were after? Then sheepishly make your way to the backend of the Ambassador Hotel’s basement carpark, where thumping after-hours nightclub Climax [5] lures in the city’s good, the bad, the beautiful and, SUKHUMVIT road unfortunately, the ugly till the wee hours. bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

featured

pub Balcony Humidor

Cigar Lounges

THE HUNTSMAN

Located in the basement of the Landmark Hotel, The Huntsman is something of a Bangkok institution serving thirsty beer lovers for the past 17 years. Its enduring appeal is probably not down to the tartan carpet and chintzy curtains, which wouldn’t win any taste awards. Fortunately, the eye is distracted from the clan colours by the central bar and nice touches like art deco windows and lamps illuminating the comfy booths. The rest of the sizeable space is filled with a mix of free-standing tables and high stools. It certainly has a lively feel and plenty of worthy distractions. Not least the range of beers, which includes Guinness, John WHERE 138 Sukhumvit Smith’s, Kronenbourg, and Road, 02-254-0404 Kilkenny on draft. Check BTS Nana out their daily drinks offer OPEN 11am-1am between 3pm and 9pm and their happy hour on food. Indeed the food is an attraction in itself, with the quirky menu featuring classic English dishes such as bangers and mash, shepherds pie and sherry trifle. They also have a Sunday carvery and beer-themed food nights. Entertainment comes from three screens showing a variety of live sport and the always fun Filipino house band. เดอะฮันท์แมน นานา

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a small handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality Coronas and fine Figurados. As well as cigars from the Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and ‘Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies.’ n Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar P&L Club Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 n Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight n La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02-267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com n P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

Club Perdomo

100

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak sathorn road

Thaniya

patpong

1 Convent road

Surasak road

silom road

BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

Sukhumvit AREA PUBS

bangkok 101

soi 39

sukhumviT road

BTS Asoke

soi 22

soi 12

soi 6

soi 4

sukhumviT road

BTS Nana

soi 35

soi 11

soi 13

soi 33

soi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene

As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering citysized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map, and prepare for sheer retail overload.

Featured Mall

Thavibu Gallery

jewelry trade center

Duck past the glassy mall exterior of the Jewelry Trade Centre – a tall tower block located beside Silom Road’s Holiday Inn Hotel – and you’ll find plenty of shiny gems glinting back at you. For over a decade this building has been one of the major centres for jewelry and those who buy and trade them here in Thailand. Besides the glittering aray ranging from rare rubies to finely cut sapphires and amethyst stones, hidden away in the bowels of this pleasant, fourstorey mall are lots of thought-provoking things to stand around and stroke your chin at – namely, art. Despite its name, the Jewelry Trade Centre must be home to the densest concentration of contemporary art galleries in the city. On the mall’s basement level, these include well-established Thai outfits Artery and Number 1, as well as Tang, one of only a few spaces in town that hangs contemporary Chinese pieces. Up on the third floor, there’s also Gossip Gallery, Asian Fine Arts and the excellent Thavibu, which dabbles in Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese art. Also worth a look-in here are the small smattering of antiques shops. On our visit we stumbled across two, both on the third floor and both packed full of interesting regional items. Thai Derm specialises in silver, gold, beads and tribal wares from Burma, Northern Thailand and Tibet. And Books & Collectibles sells old Siamese cigarette cards, stamps, books, postcards and other rare ephemera. No doubt the seasoned art or antiques enthusiast, given time in this sprawling arts and crafts maze, could sniff out more gems.

จิวเวลรี่ เทรด เซ็นเตอร์ ถ.สีลม

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shopping

WHERE 919/1 Soi Silom 19, Silom Road (next to Holiday Inn Silom), 02-630-0944~50, www.jewelrytradecenter.com bangkok 101

stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, home-grown ‘stuff’ that Bangkok is justly famous for. Sretsis

Silk & apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more if you like). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down.The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom bangkok 101

Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for members of the Royal family), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org

Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while youth-orientated shopping malls Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer up a host of homespun high fashion by trendy labels such as Jaspal and Greyhound.

Jewellery & gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionallymined precious stones. The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam. There are a few diamonds in the rough, though. Lambert Industries, with their friendly and reliable service, has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. n Lambert Industries (807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg 4F, Silom Rd Soi 17, 02-236-4343).

OTOP: One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP (One Tambon One Product), a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living.

shopping

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Shopping

Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.102). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week. Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.102); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595

Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th

Shopping Tips

n Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head.

n Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

n Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. 104

shopping

Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power. At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com n Panpuri

Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info n VAT: When shopping, look out for signs advertising ‘VAT Refund or Tourists’. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7 per cent on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you queue up to buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. A word of caution: if you are making large purchases and not being asked to pay VAT, you aren’t guaranteed they are quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th bangkok 101

bangkok design Brian Mertens

Poetry in wood

Saiyart Semangren

hailand has a tradition of self-taught masters of painting, literature music and other ar ts. Only one of these masters, however, has specialized in the creation of ar t furniture. Saiyar t Semangern is a deeply local sor t of ar tist, not just in the poetry of his designs—their evocation of Thai craft and culture—but in the unusual arc of his career, his feisty independence and entrepreneurialism. Ranging from rustic to refined, Saiyar t’s limited-batch and one-off designs are usually sculptural and full of sanook. Often they play with figure, using curvilinear form in seeming defiance of wood’s rigidity. Many pieces emphasize the reclaimed materials from which they are made. Some chairs are sculpted from old water buffalo yokes, which were traditionally made not by carving wood, but by training the branch of a live tree into the desired shape. Using long wires staked to the ground, this bonsai-like method gave the yoke great strength, a scrap of folk wisdom commemorated in Saiyar t’s design. Born in the ancient capital of Ayutthaya, Saiyar t became interested in carpentry as a child, when his father forced him to repair a verandah balustrade he’d broken on his family’s old teak Siamese house. He studied construction at vocational school, worked as a foreman, and during the 1970s did a stint in the Middle East installing custom furnishings for Castelli, the big Italian firm. When he returned to work in Thailand, he devoted his free time to his passion for ar ts and crafts. He star ted making sculpture and furniture in the 1980s, using wood reclaimed from disused buffalo car ts, plows and rice barges. As rural Thais abandoned these venerable handmade tools in favor of power machinery or jobs in the city, Saiyar t devised his own techniques and tools to make optimal use of the timber, which was otherwise scarce due to a ban on logging in Thailand’s overexploited forests. “My concept was to recycle old wood, so people would not have to cut down trees.”

Available from: n SAiyart’s Collection 7/6 Suwanwpurk 7, Purksachad Village, Ramkhamhaeng Road, Saphan Soong | 080-221-8884 | www.saiyart.com Bangkok Design:Thai Ideas in Textiles and Furniture is the first book to explore Asia’s new wave in design creativity. Award-winning author Brian Mertens profiles 36 of Thailand’s top designers, showing how they translate their own culture and experiences into unique furnishings that have won international awards and museum exhibitions. Typically handcrafted from natural materials, the best contemporary Thai designs celebrate wit, warmth, sustainability and alluring form. Bangkok Design – published by Marshall Cavendish | B1,200 - hardcover | written by Brian Mertens, with photos by Robert McLeod. bangkok 101

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Shopping

Visitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more. Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

BTS National Stadium

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Amari Watergate 4 The Four Seasons 5 Grand Hyatt Erawan 6 Intercontinental 7 Holiday Inn 8 Conrad 9 Plaza Athenee 10 Royal Orchid Sheraton 11 The Oriental 12 The Peninsula 13 Shangri-La 14 OP Place

u ri ro ad

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

ph e tb

Phaya Thai road

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: be it hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technology geeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. It’s also home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ERAWAN B AN G KO K BTS Chitlom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the bright Erawan Shrine.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

Ratchadamri road 4

5 6 7

BTS Chitlom

chidlom

lang suan road

rd.

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106

To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

oe n kr char

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Make sure you pay a visit to TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

BTS Ploenchit

rive

yra

. ya rd S i phra

o ph cha

WITTHAYU road

CENTRAL C H IT LOM BTS Chitlom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers.The Food Loft is one of Bangkok’s best food courts.

phetburi road

ploenchit road

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploenchit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of excellent eateries than its selection of shops; although the high-end retail range is impressive, including numerous art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chitlom Allwhite interior features glitzy, topclass brands – expect the likes of Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

ong s u raw

JEWELRY TRADE CENTER A treasure trove of gleaming gems and priceless souvenirs. 13

m silo

bangkok 101

Jatujak weekend market

Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can get lost – literally.

JJ Gem

aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has evolved its own diverse ecosystem (albeit one that periodically gets busted). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fullyblown, unadulterated Jatujak fix they desire.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

jatujak Map Rd . 1 n io

This month’s JJ Gem started out selling old, King Rama V era glass lamps to collectors at Bangkok’s Sanam Luang, the public green in front of the Grand Palace. But when demand for these illuminating antiques based on European or Moroccan designs outstripped supply, WHERE Section 1, Soi 36/1 the owners moved into lock 146-147 | 084-015-3273 making reproductions instead. | www.jrdlamp.com Today, Somnuk Lamp is where JJ goers head to add an elegant, old-world glow and brassy finish to their home or business, with fauxantique, factory-made lamps of all shapes, patterns, hues and sizes dangling chaotically from its rafters. There are also freestanding table-lamps and wall-lamps on sale, as well as a selection of mock-vintage home décor items, like shelf brackets, mirrors, door knobs, brass fans and fullyfunctioning gramophones. Local or international shipping is available, but only for wholesale orders unfortunately. 14. Clothing, miscellaneous 15. Pets and accessories 16. Clothing, miscellaneous 17. Ceramics 18. Clothing, miscellaneous 19. Ceramics 20. Clothing, miscellaneous 21. Clothing, miscellaneous 22. Home utensils and décor, furniture 23. Clothing, miscellaneous 24. Home utensils and décor, furniture 25. Home utensils and décor, furniture 26. Antiques

Rd .

Section 9

Section 11

Section 13

Section 4

To Victory Monument

n io ct

Section 5

To Vibhavadhi - Rangsit Rd.

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Section 12

Section 14

Section 16

K am

Section 18

Section 10

6 C eng h Pu at Ph bl uc ic ha et Pa k 3 Rd rk .

Section 20

Section 21

eng

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23 n io Se

Section 8

Clock Tower

n io ct

Section 17

Se 24

Section 19

ct Se n io ct Se

pha

Section 21

c 2 5 t ion

eng Se

bangkok 101

Somnuk Lamp

1. Books, antiques, collectibles, food & drink 2. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 3. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 4. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 5. Second-hand clothing 6. Second-hand clothing 7. Art, food & drink 8. Handicraft, home décor and miscellaneous 9. Pets and accessories 10. Clothing, accessories, miscellaneous 11. Pets and accessories 12. Clothing, miscellaneous 13. Pets and accessories

3 et Ph

Ph et g

pha

K am

K St am at ph io a n en

K am

of the month

Chatuchak Park Station

Mo Chit Station

107

Shopping

markets Ratchada Night Market Fri-Sat Nights (busiest on Saturday) | parallel with Ratchadapisek-Ladprao intersection | MRT Ratchadaphisek or MRT Lat Phrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teenthronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). It’s still worth the trip, but bring a flashlight and your bargaining skills.

ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these rather fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was once hailed as the ‘Venice of the East’.

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shopping

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-thatbe auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนท์บาร์ซาร์

Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here.

สีลม/พัฒน์พงษ์

bangkok 101

Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of longtail boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

ถ.สุขมุ วิท

Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff (frayed t-shirts, handbags, polka dot dresses etc) are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale by the city’s baby-faced entrepreneurs.

ถ.ข้าวสาร

Pratunam Just a ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with a variety of knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600). Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fast-talking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item; but like anywhere else, let the buyer beware.

ประตูนำ้

Chakphet Rd. Chakphet Rd.

Merryking

Wangburapa Rd.

Specialists in high-quality fabrics for women!!

Chakphet Rd.

End of Year Sale 19 Nov - 31 Dec The Old Siam

...from french laces, silk jacquards, chiffon prints, cording laces, embroidered laces, taffettas linens, cottons, satins, and more...

...fabrics for cocktail dresses, evening wear and day-wear

Visit us now for the lastest collections and new designs!! Gandhi-326 Phahurat Road Bangkok10200 T02-2255-997/503 H 9-6pm (Mon-Sat) 9-530pm (Sun) Cynosure-A002 G/F ChinaWorld Phahurat Road Bangkok10200 T02-225-2001-3 H 930-7pm (Mon-Sun) www.gandhi.co.th

bangkok 101

shopping

109

Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In every issue, the Bangkok 101 puts its heads on the line to bring you the very best of Bangkok’s new breed of hotel. Each month we uncover those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy boutique banner.

ImmFusion

There are certain things you’d expect to find out in On Nut, a hectic, traffic-snarled at the far-eastern end of the Sukhumvit Skytrain line: a cheap clothing market, a Tesco Lotus, perspiring commuters. However, this fetching 168-room budget hotel with Old Morocco stylings isn’t one of them. For the money, Imm Fusion has no right being so darn goodlooking: a terracotta drive, lined with trickling water vases and torch-stick lamps, segues into a thin, wine-red courtyard where overhead fans spin, mosaic floors clack at every step, and guests lounge in silky, dessert-tent style alcoves.Beyond reception, just past a burnished gold Ganesha statue, there’s a small swimming pool flanked by exotic wooden pillars and a Bordello-ish spa area. So far, so Arabian Nights. Where’s the catch? The 169 rooms are basic. Spare but not shabby (flat-screen TVs, electronic safes, arched windows with ugly views). Also, proximity to the nearby Skytrain station and shopping mall can’t hide the fact that you’re quite far out from town. But what did you expect at this price? Free wi-fi? Daily breakfast? A gym? Well, believe it or not, you’re in luck.

อิมม์ ฟิวชั่น ใกล้สถานีบีทีเอส อ่อนนุช

WHERE 1594/50 Sukhumvit Road, Prakanong, 02-331-5555; www.immhotel.com BTS On Nut PRICE B1,000-B2,500++

SAMSEN 5 LODGE (map A2) Somehow this little inn manages to squeeze three rooms and the architect owner’s workshop into an 80sqm former shop. Fortunately, his design ethos – “the preservation of ecology and culture”– means Samsen 5 Lodge’s rooms are more homey boho havens than cramped cells. Close to the river and the Old City, each one boasts an ensuite, tall windows onto a tiny garden courtyard, soft diffuse daylight and breezes. Pieces of Asiatic furniture and décor – reclaimed antiques, framed photos, reading tables – brighten up bare walls and concrete floors. And, though it contradicts the owner’s zero-energy aims, there’s air-con and a flatscreen TVshould you need them. The Chinese Room is biggest, the Courtyard Room breeziest, and the Lover’s Room the pokiest. Downers? There’s only one dining table, so you may have to take breakfast while perching on a driftwood bench in the corridor. Still, though this may be too luxeless for some, the hotel offers good deals for long stays and the warmth and insight of the small staff will soon have you tipping off your friends, especially the artsy ones. Location is superb: you’re on a calm soi opposite a temple, and yet is only a few minutes WHERE 58/1 Soi Samsen 5, 02walk away from the 628-9799; samsen5lodgebangkok. louche and loud multiply.com PRICE Lover’s Room Khao San Road. B1,200, Courtyard Room B1,500, สามเสน 5 ลอดจ์ Chinese Room B2,000 สามเสน ซ.5 110

accommodation

bangkok 101

Refresh @ 24 Spa & Massage offer an extension range of massages, body scrubs, body wraps and facials. After massage or treatment you will feel rejuvenate and refresh.

For December Promotion Refresh Blooming Package (1.5 hr) 1,850 B Now 1,350 B - Relaxation Massage (60 mins) - â&#x20AC;&#x153;Liboteâ&#x20AC;? Blooming Facial (30 mins)

Candle Romance (2 hr 30mins) 3,600 B 30% off for 2 packages - Sauna Blanket (30 mins) - Lavender salt scrub (30 mins) - Warm candle massage made of shea butter, fruity butter, soya oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil and vitamin E (90 mins)

To enjoy this wonderful Spa experience, please contact us at Refresh @ 24 Spa & Massage 43 Soi Sukhumvit 24, Sukhumvit Road, Klongton, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 Tel: 0-2259-7235-7 Booking: refresh24spa@yahoo.com website: www.refresh24spa.com Open daily: 09.30-01.00hrs.

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

Thai massage

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.109 for this month’s listings) – there’s no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations always recommended.

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

Urban Retreat Spa – 31/10 Sukhumvit Aroma Body Scrub, Soi 35 / BTS Phrom Phong / 02-204-signature treatment 2008-9 / www.urbanretreatspa.net Being Spa <http://www.urbanretreatspa.net> /

If you know your massage, you know10am-10pm the superb/ $spa needn’t be pretty. 30-minute Himalayan Crystal Take one mattress, add masseuse with Midas touch, and you’ve all pink you Salts with Yogurt and Honey Scrub + need for a ravishing rub.That said, we’re60-minute still suckers for all theOil trimmings – Macadamia Massage: baht especially when they’re as gorgeous as1200 Being Spa’s, one of Bangkok’s best in a side street close neighbourhood day spas. Clearly goingTucked for theaway ‘home of a well travelled to Phrom Phong, Urban Retreat is Thai’ look, this thoughtfully convertedprecisely townhouse a thatwins – a you quietover spotwith close to the bustlelacquer of Sukhumvit and the serene courtyard pond, nude oil paintings, Chinese and Moroccan upscale Emporium shopping mall. cushions. And its 11 unique treatment are equally pretty; with Thisrooms new, small spa is popular with Thais (as andwell long-term foreign resirustic wood floors and tasteful ethnic décor as showers and floral dents bybody very baths). Smoke and mirrors? Judging from ourdrawn aroma good services that scrub, and our masseuse’s gungho technique, not in the Where 88 Sukhumvit 51, slightest. Clearly an advocate of tough-love, she applied 02-662-6171; www.beingspa.com the coarse salt as if we were a plank of wood and she Open 10am-8pm sandpaper (exhilarating for us, perhaps painful for sensitive Price aroma body scrub (B1,100), others!). After a shower, skin now post-exfoliation smooth, ultimate body massage (B1,900) it was Ultimate Body Massage time. This was more serene; a nourishing eucalyptus, orange and lavender oil rub blending oriental techniques with mostly medium pressure, and the odd cathartic twinge as she worked pent-up pressure points – wonderful. Explore their menu for more gratifying treatments in drop-dead surrounds, from short scrub-and-goes, to epic massage, bath, facial and body wrap medleys. 112

บีอิ้งสปา สุขุมวิท 51

health & wellness

bangkok 101

typical SPA cost range

THANN SANCTUARY (map C3) Room 518B, Siam Discovery Center, 5th Fl. | BTS National Stadium | 02658-0500 | 10am-9pm | $$$ A dime-sized delight. Stagger away from the madness at MBK and head to serene Thann Spa – just a few tasteful, small rooms tucked away in Siam Discovery. As with the Harnn sister spa at Paragon, this sweet little storefront is an extension of a highend beauty product line. Rooms are finished in black stone, high ceilings compensating for compact quarters. The menu is small, but very appealing, featuring a variety of massage forms – Thai, aromatherapy, Ayurvedic, among others. The Purifying Facial is one of the best little pick-me-ups in Bangkok – 45 minutes of cleansing and mask application, along with facial massage. Neck, shoulders, arms and legs don‘t go neglected. Expert technicians are generous with those heavenly Thann products, even applying balm to dry lips. Staff are a delight, and are handsoff but happy to help you pick out little Thann treats to take home.

สยามดิสคัฟเวอร์รี่

Thann

bangkok 101

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

BANGKOK OASIS SPA (map D3) 64 Sukhumvit 31 (Soi Sawasdee) | BTS Phromphong, MRT Sukhumvit | www. bangkokoasis.com | 02-262-2122 | Daily 10am-10pm | $$ Calm and relaxation aren’t words that spring to mind when one thinks of Sukhumvit Road. But in the bucolic, picturesque surroundings of this luxurious spa, jasmine scents, soothing music, wood décor and “aesthetic” vases of reeds combine to impart the feeling of being at one with nature. A link in a chain of up-and-coming day spas with therapists imported from Chiang Mai, the signature treatment here is the “four hands” massage, with two members of the team applying pressure simultaneously on both the upper and lower parts of the body. Resistance is futile: aches and pains will deliciously melt away. It might even be too much for visitors still reeling from the sheer abundance – and privileged pricing – of spas in the Kingdom.

spas Urban Retreat Spa (Map D3-4) 31/10 Soi Promjai, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-204-2008-9 | www. urbanretreatspa.net | 10am – 10pm | $ This accurately monikered little dollop of indulgence is tucked away off Sukhumvit, down soi 31 and around a corner. It’s a walkable, pleasant even, 5-minute wander to reach this place, with its sleek white-framed, glass-panelled front. Upstairs there’s a curtained hallway lined with mattresses primed for traditional Thai massage, with fresh towels folded so expertly into orchid shapes they should be entered into an origami bath-ware contest. Although the multi-limed delights of the Four Hands Massage are also offered here, we recommend, the Urban Touch treatment: a hybrid healer combining Thai twists with the strokes influenced by Indonesia and manipulation from the Maldives.

เออร์บันรีทรีทสปา ซ.พร้อมใจ สุขุมวิท 39

แบงคอกโอเอซิสสปา ซ.สวัสดี (สุขุมวิท 31)

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H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so even beginners will feel at ease with a class of the techniques of breathing and body opening postures. โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fastpaced city life getting you down? Well, fear not dear reader, for there are a wealth of wellness centres around Bangkok, standing ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul.

other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-the-art equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www. rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and

ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

Amruth Wellness (map E4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a yoga session or to embark on a panchakarma package. Highlights include the head oildribbling odyssey that is a shiro dhara.

อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8

Perfecting the harmony between your mind, body and soul, Crystal Spa offers an exquisite Thai heritage spa experience. Using traditional Thai herbs and a masterful touch, our masseuses deliver divine treatments in a serene and exotic setting.

Christmas’ Promotion: Aroma Hot Candle

Buy a 90 minutes Aroma Hot Candle Massage and enjoy 30 minutes extra for free.

Crystal Spa is located on Sukhumvit Rd., right in front of BTS Phrakanong Station escalator (Exit 3). Open daily from 10.00-22.00 hrs. Free parking is available at Good Year Eagle Store. For Reservation: Tel.02-382-2244, 02-382-4455 www.crystalspathailand.com

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edical tourism is big business in Thailand; quite literally a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 different countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of other world-class medical centres – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international patients. The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other. When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls. Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad International, once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your

bangkok 101

private room, they have their own immigration department and a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your visit. You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications? Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul? And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa? These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment.

medical tourism Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International 33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com

Eye Care

There’s nothing more annoying than to Rutnin suffer from faltering vision. Having to squint wherever you go and struggling to decrypt even the largest billboards isn’t desirable for anyone. Here in Thailand there are number of remedies for your eyesight difficulties. The most obvious option (if you haven’t thought of it already) is to get a pair of designer spectacles. Just walk in whenever, get your free examination, choose some snazzy frames and that’s it. The world is in focus again. Check out MBK Centre, where there are no less than 16 optical shops, for very competitive prices on frames and lenses. However, if you are looking for full correction you may want to consider Lasik surgery. The procedure involves utilising a laser to remodel any defects on your cornea, and is relatively painless with short recovery times. Surveys show that up to 98 per cent of patients report full satisfaction with the results. As you might expect, there are many centres specialising in Lasik here. With state of the art equipment and Englishspeaking staff, you can rest assured that you’ll soon be seeing clearly. Optometrists: n Better Vision Siam Paragon 2nd Fl. | 02-610-9645 | www.btv.co.th n Eye Lab MBK Centre 1st Fl. | 02-620-9490 Lasik Centres n TRSC International Lasik Centre 6th Floor, U Chu Liang Bldg. Rama IV Rd | 02-733-2020 | www.lasikthai.com/en/ n Rutnin-Gimbel Excimer Laser Eye Centre 80/1 Sukhumvit 21(Soi Asoke) | 02-639-3355 | www.rutningimbel.com n Bumrungrud Hospital Lasik Centre 33 Sukhumvit Soi 3 | 02-667-1555 | www.bumrungrad.com n Laser Vision Lasik Centre of Thailand 49/5 Laser Vision Building., Ratchadapisek 48 (Ratchayothin intersection) | 02-511-2111 | www.laservision.co.th

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Sports

sports MASTER MUAY THAI Many a champ started out punching mitts at one of Bangkok’s many muay Thai schools. Some are livein training camps, others geared towards drop-in sessions, but all will train you up and teach you how to deflect – and deliver – the basic moves, be it kick, jab, elbow, foot thrust or standing grapple. Beginners and female pugilists are welcome, though they often receive inordinate attention in the ring n Chacrit Muay Thai School Washington Square next to Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-260-5816 www.chacritmuaythaischool.com n Muay Thai Institute 336/932 Prahonyothin 118 Vipravadee Road, Rangsit | 02-9920096-99 | www.muaythai-institute.net n Muaythai Sasiprapa 401 Soi Ladprao 130 Klongchan, Bangkapi | 02-378-0270 | www.muaythaisasiprapa.com n The International Muay Thai School 22/8 Moo 8, Soi 10, Pracharaj Sai1 Road, Bangsue | 02-585-6807 www.geocities.com/maimuangkorn/ eng_mai.htm

Muay Thai Institute

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THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

Fairtex

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the fake action of the WWF; here the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. spor ts

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.37) on any given day and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums.The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. bangkok 101

t’ai chi

Active Sports AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in. BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in MBK, by National Stadium BTS. bangkok 101

Major Bowl

CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Esplanade 4F | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02-354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more like a nightclub on ice. Popular among spor ts

youngsters, its 682m2 of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B900-2,400 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice. And this is Thailand so of course there’s also a popular karaoke set-up on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Centre (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with local ace (and recently retired) Paradorn Srichaphan bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. For spectators, towards the end of the men’s and women’s seasons, Bangkok hosts the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 117

Courses&Ser vices

courses

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi | 02-294-9029 | www.baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 118

(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well, which are perfect for a serious, but short stint into the world of Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02-711-5270-3 | www. chivasomacademy.com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; all students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. Prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล

อะคาเดมีโมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

Plant-A-Tree Foundation The need for both developed and developing countries to protect the world’s natural resources and battle climate change is ever more pressing. However, while governments grapple with the often unpopular but potentially earth-saving decisions, it is organisations like Plant-a-Tree-Today (PATT) that take the leap towards really making a difference in this global crisis. Formed in late 2005, Plant-a-Tree-Today is a Thai foundation that works in conjunction with corporate partners, government and non governmental organizations (NGOs), and local communities to plant one million trees per year. Yes, that’s right, one million. The main aim is to combat the already devastating effects that climate change has wrought upon our world, to help every global player, from big institutions to schools and the individual, bring about ecologically sustainable development. Some of PATT’s most important activities include: Implementation of native reforestation projects Provision of funding for partner projects Construction of school tree nurseries Teaching of environmental education for children Offsetting of personal carbon footprints Raising public awareness of climate change bangkok 101

Thailand, alongside India, Indonesia and South Africa, is one PATT’s main beneficiaries. Projects they have worked on here in the Kingdom include the reforestation of a protected area in Ratchaburi province, mangrove rehabilitation in Hua Hin, and a bio-diesel project in Chiang Rai which increased the self-sufficiency of a local hill-tribe community. More recently they also reforested degraded land in Baan Nong Muang, a tiny village up in Buriram province. Via there Environmental Outreach and Advocacy programme, PATT is happy to have volunteers help them, primarily by doing school outreach to inspire others to plant more trees. Their EcoKids program also offers you the chance to supervise kids at their environmental school holiday camp. If you would like volunteer your services to these programs or upcoming projects in the Kingdom, or to donate, please contact PATT via the following channels: CONTACT: Plant-A-Tree Foundation (PATT) c/o Equitech (Thailand) Ltd, BB Building, 7th Floor, Office # 3705, Sukhumvit 21 Road (Asoke), Klongtoey-Nua Tel: 02-259-6255 Website: www.pattfoundation.org

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Reference

getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options. ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-B23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

RIVER (also see River Tourism on p24)

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5.30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B3.

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CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to baord them as they don’t usuallt wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B8 to B18. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. Pick up a handy route map from any pier.

reference

MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere for B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. bangkok 101