Bangkok 101 - February 2008 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

february 2008 100 baht

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1 on 1: JOE CUMMINGS

Upcountry Escape: CHIANG MAI 101

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HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

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publisher’s

letter

february 2008

Gong Xi Fa Cai! This month, we kick off the Lunar New Year, ushering in the Year of the Rat, that noblest of vermin. The large number of Thais with ethnic Chinese roots will ensure fabulous Sino-Thai celebrations throughout the city. As a somewhat odd counterweight, the western holiday of the month, Valentine’s Day, will also be celebrated this month. What do they have in common, besides the colour red? Well, both offer excellent excuses for local restaurants and hotels to concoct yet more delectable special menus, which we highlight in this issue. Also in this issue, we take a look at the exquisite pain of “Magical Tattoos” and the art of the needle in excerpts from Very Thai. And keeping in the rock ‘n’ roll vein, check out our chat with Joe Cummings of the Tonic Rays about music and muses in our 1-on-1 Interview. We uncover our plans for world domination with a sneak-peek at the next outpost in the 101 empire – Chiang Mai 101! Yes, we’re everywhere. In addition to unravelling the secrets of Chiang Mai, this month we’re also in Chachoengsao spotting dolphins, and on the Andaman Coast doing community tourism with the Natural Guide; our over-the-border jaunt goes to Kuala Lumpur, with a focus on Genting in particular. We’re honoured to host the work of renowned photographer Robert McLeod in these pages. McLeod is featured in the Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom project. His frank, front-on images spontaneously capture the eclectic sartorial splendour and individualism of Bangkok youth culture straight off the street. So, don your best red shirt, down a few dumplings and get to work appeasing that Kitchen God. However you plan to ring in the reign of the Rat, with food or ﬁrecrackers, Bangkok 101 wishes you luck and prosperity in your travels here and beyond.

Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher & Editorial Director

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contributor s

Robert McLeod

Having lived in Thailand for the past 15 years, it’s safe to say Robert McLeod is very familiar with the country and its people. The founder of Lantern Photography, specialists in architectural and interior photography for the hospitality and property industries, Robert has extensive experience photographing luxury resorts throughout Thailand and the rest of Southeast Asia. In addition, his black-and-white images have been featured in exhibitions around the world, from Bangkok to Sydney to New York. He is also a contributor to Architectural Digest.

Noy Thrupkaew

Steven Pettifor

British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Noy is a U.S. journalist and former Pew fellow in International Journalism and Fulbright fellow in contemporary Thai cinema. She writes frequently on international politics and culture. Noy has reported from Cuba, Iran, Morocco, Japan, and Cambodia, among other countries; for outlets including The Guardian, Marie Claire, Ms. and The American Prospect, where she is a senior correspondent.

Philip Cornwel-Smith

Ver y Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its ﬁrst listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s ﬁrst mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness:Thailand and international magazines.

Joel Quenby

Joel started out in London as a wannabe music hack, blagging his way backstage, being snubbed by Spice Girls and scared witless by Kelis. He seemed to spawn a guilty penchant for inane pop culture commentary, and has since made the leap to the embattled frontlines of consumer lifestyle publishing, ﬁlm musing and advertising copywriting. He’s aware that this is not particularly big or clever, but continues nonetheless.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and ﬁlm programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular ﬁxture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia.com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher & Editorial Director Mason Florence Associate Publisher Veronica Nivatvongs Managing Editor Katia Grau Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Editorial Assistant Jittaya Siribenjawong Art Director Narong Srisaiya Design Director Yuthtaya Sangnak Strategist Nathinee Chen Sage Sebastien Berger Director of Marketing Vareeporn Arunsuratpakdee Advertising Sales Manager Tongtakaew Srisa-ard Account Executive Boonrasee Preedapannee Administrative Assistants Sirirat Wasathonmaytee Patcharee Nuchkuar Aroonnee Winyakarm Nattanan Thitameteethum Contributing Writers Oliver Benjamin, Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,Tourism Authority of Thailand Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2007. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents

snapshots 10 12 14 16 17 18 19

arts 46 47 48 58 60 61

101 picks 1 on 1: joe cummings events calendar history religion customs very thai: magical tattoos

february 2008

contemporary art galleries photo feature: siam squared performing arts cinema reading & screening

sightseeing

20 28 29 30 32 33 34 36 38 39 40 42 44

suggested itineraries historic buildings palaces temples museums the great outdoors river tourism day tripping featured day trip: chachoengsao upcountry festivals featured escape: chiang mai the natural guide: andaman coast over the border: kuala lumpur/genting

12 38 on the cover: Photo by Robert McLeod

table of

contents

food & drinks 62 64 65 66 68 70 71 72 77 78 79 80 82

dining in bangkok thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants chic bangkok all you can eat restaurants brunching tea late-night dining sweet treats wine

106

nightlife 84 86 88 90 92 93 94 96

one night in bangkok hotel nightclubs nightclubs bars bars with a view hotel jazz clubs live music pub crawling

shopping

health & wellness

accommodation

sports

98 shopping tours 100 mall crawl 102 markets 104 stuff

108 110 112 113

106 one room & boutique bangkok 107 hotels & serviced apartments

body & beauty spas medical tourism: acupuncture wellness centres

114 spectator sports 115 active sports

courses & services 116 117

cooking, meditation & thai massage courses making merit:: friends of the asian elephant

110

reference

118 survival thai 119 contacts 120 getting around

117

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www.kirikayan.com

Bangkok Sales Office: 560/1, 1st Floor Klao Siam Condominium Dindang Bangkok 10100 Tel: 66 (0) 2642 5100 Fax: 66 (0) 2245 4732

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101 picks

Before dashing off to a tropical island or the mountains, scratch beneath the city’s gritty surface to discover gems that’ll keep you here longer. We’ve compiled our Bangkok favourites here.

one night in bangkok

shopping

thai style

food heaven

open air

■ Chatuchak It’s a sweaty affair, but a market must on weekends – ogle stuff you didn’t even know was for sale (p.102)

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (pp.17;117)

■ Beautiful Brunches What else are Sundays for? Indulge at any five-star hotel. Smaller places are great, too (p. 77)

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a big zoo & Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous greenery (pp.28; 33)

■ Bars & Clubs Get in amongst Bangkok’s legendar y nightlife (pp.84-97)

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar Downtown mini-Chatuchak, just cleaner, hipper, open daily & less hot (p.102)

■ Thai Massage Passive torture or sheer bliss, you gotta try it once (pp.108; 110)

■ Food Courts Thai food 101, the safe (and air-conditioned) way (p.66)

■ On the River Take an express boat up to Nonthaburi, rent a long-tail boat or do a dinner cruise (p.75)

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar Munich’s Oktoberfest goes Thai and throws in some major shopping (p.102)

■ MBK & Siam Square Cell phone heaven meets nifty young Thai designers (p.100)

■ Thai Cooking Classes Your culinary chance to advance on the Phad Thai cliché (p.116)

■ Dining Cruises The setting won’t get any better; also available for lunch (p.75)

■ Cycling Tour Discover the green amid Bangkok’s chaos, and you might consider moving here (p.115)

■ Shows Traditional Thai dance or tranny cabaret – it’s up to you (p.59; 95)

■ Patpong A bustling street bazaar incongruously sandwiched between neon-lit gogo bars (p.102)

■ Thai Boxing The brutal, quintessentially Thai form of kickboxing (p.114)

■ Thai Liquids Mekhong, Singha, Thai wine and yummy lemongr ass smoothies (pp.64, 84-97)

■ Ancient City Rent a bike and see all of Thailand in half a day in smog-free surroundings (p.37)

■ High Altitude Bars Shell out for the great views and cool breezes (p.92)

■ Panthip Plaza Get lost in a mega-mall paradise for computer junkies! (p.100)

■ TCDC Cool, creative learning space for Thai designers (p.49)

■ Street Food We dare you! Timid souls opt for fantastic, fresh fruit (p.66)

■ Lumphini Park The Central Park of the tropics (p.33)

■ Dining Cruises Slothful full-board sightseeing (p.75)

■ River City Antiques galore – expect top quality, not bargain basement (p.100)

■ Jim Thompson House & Silk Shop Commune with one of Bangkok’s favourite spooks (pp.28;104)

■ Affordable Gourmet Eat top-notch French, Italian and more for the price of a N.Y. martini (p.66)

■ Flower Market Close your eyes and inhale deeply (p.103)

■ Carnivalesque Par ty with the backpacker crowd on Khao San Rd or Thai hipsters on RCA (pp.88; 90)

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bangkok 101

Striving for

Hotel Lobby

Gateway location gives you the inside track Pathumwan Princess Hotel adjacent to MBK Centre, is situated in the heart of the city, surrounded by Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best retail and entertainment facilities.

Rooms and service offer a welcome return A stylish hotel with panoramic city views, the guest rooms include the Grand ExecuPlus Suites and ExecuPlus Suites, on five exclusive floors giving guests a warm welcoming feel on arrival. For all Suite guests, the Club Lounge is available as a dedicated business venue or as a relaxing and stylish dining lounge for breakfast, as well as all day refreshments.

Facilities help to unwind or engage The Olympic Club is a spacious state-of-the-art fitness club with over 100 different types of workout equipment, a range of workout classes, half Olympic-size swimming pool, rooftop tennis courts, squash courts, badminton court, basketball shooting and many other facilities. For a totally relaxing way to spend a part of your day, let Tantara Health Spa untangle both body and mind. With more than 60 pampering and spa experiences, guests are sure to come away feeling refreshed and rejuveanted. Wining & Dining is presented through six tantalizing concepts from the award wining Kongju Korean Restaurant to the CiTi BiSTRo with its live open kitchen and cutting edge cuisine, the STUDiO BAR with its Chic European spirits and live soft jazz music, or Loop Italian Restaurant Terrace and Bar located on the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s landscaped 8th floor. t@Lobby on the ground floor has a choice selection of coffee and teas - an ideal meeting point. Pathumwan Princess Hotel 444 Phayathai Road, Wangmai, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 Thailand Tel: +66 (0) 2216-3700 Fax: +66 (0) 2216-3730 E-mail: ppb@dusit.com, rsvnppb@dusit.com Visit the Website at www.pprincess .com

bangkok 101

Grand ExecuPlus Suites

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The Hotel Surroundings

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JOE CUMMINGS

1 on 1 Joe Cummings is the original

Southeast Asia travel scribe. More than 30 guidebooks since his ﬁrst Lonely Planet Thailand bible (which saw him name-checked in The Beach), Cummings’ words still ring true for hordes of tourists – including Mick Jagger. But having recently exchanged pen for rock axe, Joe’s just as likely to be found jamming with his band The Tonic Rays.

it shortens your life, so there’s less time to be lonely! Just kidding, even songwriting requires a bit of discipline and solitude. If you could choose a song to represent you, which would it be? Have to go with one of our songs, Too Lazy To Break Your Heart. How did the Tonic Rays form? We formed in Pai two years ago. Marie Dance (lead vocals and rhythm guitar) had just moved there from England, on the recommendation of a fellow musician who suggested it would be a good place to write songs and play low-key bar gigs. Marie decided to put a band together, I came along one night and jammed with her, a bassist and drummer, and the next thing we knew we had regular gigs as a foursome at several venues in Pai. We began writing songs together, and developed a small but loyal following, so we just kept going. Do you prefer the spotlight of “band life” to the more monastic life of a writer? It’s a refreshing change, overall. Rock ‘n’ roll performance offers a good antidote to a writer’s chronic loneliness – at least for a while. And 12

What’s the best concert you’ve attended in Bangkok? Red Hot Chili Peppers a couple of years ago. Very tight, with a brilliant mid-concert Flea vs Frusciante jam. What are the best venues for live music in Bangkok? I wish the city had one really good rock club. I’ve seen some decent Thai pop shows at Zantika, which designwise has incredible potential if they could just put in more interesting bands. I hear Dude Sweet has hosted some great one-off shows, but I never had a chance to attend one. Noriega’s is nice for tiny pub rock, and we’ve enjoyed playing there. I have a soft spot for the blues at Ad Here the 13th on Samsen Road, always a treat to hear Pong and Georgia go at it. Tokyo Joe’s gets some pretty interesting characters in on jam nights. snapshots

You once hinted at some advice Mick Jagger gave you on women? What was it? He said, “If you can make a girl feel like she’s the only girl in the world, you’ve got her.” What song best evokes the spirit of Bangkok? A Hard Day’s Night by The Beatles. The world ends tomorrow. How do you spend your last day in Bangkok? Taking advantage of end-of-theworld sales at JJ Market. Buy the Tonic Rays CD direct from www.thetonicrays.com

bangkok 101

CHINESE NEW YEAR

now in bangkok Chirayu na Ranong

ong Xi Fa Cai! Happy Chinese New Year! The second instalment in Thailand’s annual trilogy of New Year celebrations, the Chinese incarnation has as much significance as the Thai and “global” versions given the large percentage of ThaiChinese in the population. Based on the lunar calendar, the celebration of this event is widespread throughout the region. 2008 marks the Year of the Rat and before you rush to judgment, keep in mind that the Chinese zodiac holds this oftenreviled animal in much higher regard than you’d think. The Rat is the first of the 12 signs in the Chinese zodiac and rats are deemed leaders, bangkok 101

conquerors and pioneers. Considered charming, charismatic, passionate and hard-working (think Remy from Ratatouille), Rats are hardly the dirty, trashgnawing, vermin running down the gutter. Hotspots to hit are definitely Yaowarat, Bangkok’s amazing and always vibrant Chinatown. The epicentre of the Thai-Chinese universe, it has an abundance of the finest Chinese dining for all budgets. Expect firecrackers, lion and dragon dances, lanterns, drum-banging, wild acrobatics and street throngs garbed in red making their way past countless vendors selling New Year novelties and treats. Definitely not isolated to this area, expect food promotions, shows and demonstrations all throughout the capital as the city gets awash in red for the occasion. Chinese New Year signals the coming of spring and a fresh start for everything. So time to leave your debts, doubts, and disagreements behind and start looking forward. New clothes are worn and it’s a well-known tradition for the married and elderly to give youngsters a special gift (read: cash only) in small red envelopes called Ang Pao to bolster their savings or to treat themselves to a little something extra to start their year off right. So don’t be stingy all you parents out there: Get in the seasonal spirit and shell out a few bills to your little ones. snapshots

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events calendar 7 February

Chinese New Year Dragons, Lion Dances, red envelopes, and firecrackers! Head down to Chinatown for the best spot to soak up this grand, festive event, and celebrate the start of the Lunar Calendar. (See p.13)

28 February2 March

5th Thai International Travel Fair

16-24 February

Furniture & Houseware Fair, Bangkok Wedding Fair, Fashion & Jewellery Fair, House Festival When in Bangkok you should never find yourself wondering where to purchase pretty much anything, at reduced prices, because there’s literally no end in sight for the city’s trade shows. Not only are they everywhere, this event for example, finds Impact Arena putting on, count them, four separate fairs at the same time, in the same venue. Take your partner, get a ring, plan how you’ll exchange your vows, buy a house, and decorate it, all without leaving the premises. How’s that for convenience! IMPACT 14

If you’re planning to explore the rest of Thailand or beyond, this is the fair for you. Organized for the 5th year by the Thai Travel Agents Association you’ll find great deals on flights, accommodation, and tour packages. QSNCC

16-17 Feb.

Weekend in Korat Region Join the Siam Society and venture out to Nakhon Ratchasima,Thailand’s largest province. Led by Prof. Michael Smithies, editor of the Journal of the Siam Society, and more importantly, resident of the province for the past 15 years. Renowned for its silk-weaving prowess and Khmer ruins, the capital city of the province is officially Nakorn Ratchasima, but is commonly referred to as Korat. Spend the weekend exploring and enjoying this great province. A donation of B6,900 is requested for all participants to cover transportation, fees, meals and accommodation. An extra B1,500 is required for non-members. THE SIAM SOCIETY | BTS ASOK snapshots

bangkok 101

Fringe Festival Events

And now for something a little different.The groundbreaking, riverside Patravadi Theatre is once again bringing you its sometimes quirky, always fantastic, feast for the senses, featuring acrobatics, puppetry, multimedia performances and dances of all flavours. Settle in your seats and enjoy the eclectic blend of brilliant performing acts.

9 February J3 @ Studio 9

1-2 February A Piece of Coin

Hailing from Macau, Por tuguese Pop Rock outfi t J3 features both Chinese and Por tuguese members, offering a true repre-sentation of Macau and its history. Head down to Studio 9 and have a taste of some Por tuguese rock! 9PM

Internationally acclaimed Thai dancer and choreographer Pichet Klunchun speaks up his mind on oddities in Thai society with various dance creations, focusing on cost-efficient, coin operated robots, and merging contemporary and classical art. 8PM THEATRE-IN-THE-GARDEN

Mobius Jam !!

An open call to all artists from every region and discipline, Mobius Strip will create a performance carnival filled with many marvelous surprises. No matter if you are a dancer, actor, acrobat, singer, painter, as long as you are willing to use your creativity there will be a place for you here. THEATRE-IN-THE-GARDEN bangkok 101

Based on Bertolt Brecht’s “Legend of the Dead Soldier” this Physical Theatre performance from Korea takes a long hard look at the absurdity of war and the meaning of life, through mime, dance, acting, and live music. Performed by Korean group Nottle, The Return debuted in 2004 and has made the rounds in Singapore, Taiwan, Australia, Japan, and China. 8PM THEATRE-IN-THE-GARDEN

Wangnin Family

Translated literally as “Fools’ Civilization” Wangnin Bumei promises its audience a wild and crazy performance. There’s no such thing as “normal” for this energetic and creative troupe as they believe the only way to reconnect to our numbed humanity is to lose your mind and get crazy! Blending dance, butoh, theatre, music, and circus acts into an innovative story, you’re bound to have a mind-blowing experience. STUDIO 1

Being In or Out Mobius Strip

3 February

The Return

9-10 February

1-2 February Alex Cheung founded Mobius Strip with the purpose of exploring crossdiscipline crea-tivity. With experience in martial arts, percussion, dance, Tai Chi, and Theatre, Mobius Strip will somehow grab from these varying fields to present a physical theatre performance in Meditation. THEATRE-IN-THE-GARDEN

8-10 February

TRADE FAIR VENUES

15-17 February

Namelos–anonymous The ocean. A boat. Three women. The performance’s vague tagline quips, suggesting endless possibilities and interpretations. Three exceptional dancers, from Australia, Haiti and Thailand join forces, expressing themselves each in their own language of dance, to bring us the story of one dangerous journey. THEATRE-IN-THE-GARDEN

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NATIONAL EVENT TRADE FAIRS PERFORMANCE STUDY TRIP 15

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history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.500 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lots of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the Sathorn/Silom

districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas and leafy public parks. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. These gradually-expanding public transpor tation networks, with their

bright, snaking trains carrying wideeyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped relieve the city’s notorious traffic congestion and pollution, but given this City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ but instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It is no surprise that The Guinness Book of Records registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

he majority of Thais (over 90 %) are Theravada Buddhists, with the rest of the population split between Muslims, Christians, Sikhs and Hindus. Older animist beliefs also remain, practiced alongside a version of the Buddhism that originated with the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha, in India around the 6th century BC. Theravada Buddhism is based on the concepts of dukkha (suffering), anicca (impermanence and transience), and anatta (im“making merit” – donating permanence of the self) to the poor or a temple, or Thai Buddhist – suffering arises through handing out rice to monks monks once attachment to imperduring their morning almsdyed their manent conditions. By gathering processions. own robes working to extinguish Nearly all Thai Buddhist with colour attachment through men will become monks, extracted meditation and proper if only for a short time. from turmeric conduct, Buddhist pracWomen cannot be orand the titioners can eventually heartwood and dained but some become leaves from attain spiritual enlightennuns, although their numjackfruit trees; bers remain low. Contrary ment (nirvana), freeing now most them from cycles of reto Western perceptions robes come birth. A soul is reborn of Buddhism as a religion chemically according to its progress above the fray of everyday dyed. (or lack of it) towards life, monks and nuns have nirvana, with animals launched HIV-education and forming lower strata and monks oc- drug prevention campaigns, orphancupying the top. The Buddha himself ages, and other social programmes. took 550 lives to become enlight- More controversially, a number of ened (mural paintings in Thai temples monks have begun advocating that often depict tales of his former lives, Buddhism should be enshrined in the called jataka), so most Thais focus new constitution as Thailand’s state on attaining a better rebirth through religion.

Did you know?

bangkok 101

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religion

For more information on Buddhism and meditation courses, check out the World Fellowship of Buddhists at www.wfb-hq.org and the international homepage of Vipassana meditation centres at www.dhamma.org.

Spirit houses Hand in hand with their Buddhist faith, Thais still hold many animist beliefs. Spirit worship is widely practised and spirit houses can be seen on the corner of most residential and commercial properties. By providing the spirits (good and evil) with shelter, it’s hoped that they will protect houses or buildings from any harm or mischief. To make sure the spirits are kept happy, offerings of incense, fruit, flowers or rice are made every day. 17

Snapshots

customs

Did you know?

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ don’t step on the threshold ■ don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ be considerate when taking photographs ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

Everyday has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king with deep reverence for the monarchy. By way of proof, por traits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and other public places.

Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting.Thais don’t usually shake hands but rather wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face).This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows respect and humility. The higher the hands are raised, the more respect is being paid.

make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”).

Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred part of the body while the feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can snapshots

bangkok 101

very thai Philip Cornwel-Smith

ou are what you wear. While apt in fashion, the saying is literally true if it’s a Thai tattoo in which you’re clad. Imbued with magical powers, the arcane roi sak (tattoos) possess their owners – mostly men – at intense moments like combat, love or rituals. The script is khom, used by the ancient Khmer, who Chinese visitors report wore tattoos in hand-combat two millennia ago. Like all amulets, it requires activation by the tattooist, who murmurs incantations in khom while he wields a two-foot steel needle, which might not be sterilized, for the next supplicant. One design may take weeks of 20minute sessions to complete, each requiring an ordeal to activate the charm. This the tattooist does by blowing air or hot oil upon the bleeding weal, then slapping and rubbing it while muttering incantations. The wearer then takes on characteristics of the tattooed image – such as a tiger, snake or hermit – when the spell activates. Changes have been coming for a long time. Tattoos for marking slaves and corvee labourers were abolished by King Rama V and the non-magical Lanna tattoo is almost extinct. The respectable aficionado does still have options. Aside from hiding them beneath clothing, they can get an invisible tattoo. That seems a contradiction in terms if you think of tattoos as essentially for display, but not if you want to avoid ostracism without losing the magic powers. Secretly, you may be a tiger. But in the office, who would know?

Magical Tattoos

Photographs by Philip Cornwel-Smith

Spells on skin make the wearer invincible – except against fashion

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand ’s pop culture. for page after colourful page, author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. from the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt each month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic. Snap up a copy at any good book shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith bangkok 101

snapshots

Sightseeing

suggested itinerary If you’re looking to maximise sightseeing, head for rattanakosin, an artificial island that lies alongside the Chao Phraya River and has the highest density of ‘must see’ tourist destinations in Bangkok. First stop is Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn. Despite the name, it doesn’t open until 8:30am, so there’s no need to get up too early. If you are staying at the Oriental, Shangri-La or another hotel on the river, just head for the water. Otherwise, grab the opportunity to ride Bangkok’s excellent Skytrain – follow the signs for Saphan Taksin and disembark at the final stop. Once at the river, jump on an express boat. (Regular riders can tell you which boat is an express). As you face the river, you want to be going right, upriver. Get off at Tha Tien pier, then catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its spire aglow, is easy to spot. When you are finished here, simply cross the river again to visit the granddaddy of all sights: the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Since by now you’ll have worked up an appetite, head south for a few minutes on Maharat Road to a highly-recommended restau-

Rattanakosin

hether your stay in bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

rant called The Deck. It has great views of the river, and is conveniently close to another world-famous temple, Wat Po,, renowned for its classical Thai massage school. Following lunch, see the reclining buddha here and have your muscles thoroughly deknotted. Once relaxed, head north once more. Pass the Grand Pal-

sightseeing

ace and on your left you will find the National Museum and the National Theatre. Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably find it is early evening. A good place to unwind and have a drink or a meal is at one of the numerous eateries near the fort along Phra Athit road. road The rest of your evening is up to you – Bangkok has plenty of options. Have a beer with the backpackers on Khao san road, take in a Muay Thai (Thai boxing) match at nearby ratchadamnoen stadium, or head back down the river or into the city for cocktails, dinner or a stroll around the suan Lum Night bazaar. For full descriptions of the above sites, see pages 28, 29, 90 & 114.

bangkok 101

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Sometimes the best things in life are free, or nearly so. Experience some of the real Bangkok and save your baht for that extra foot massage. ■ Observe prayer rituals and traditional Thai dancing at the Erawan Shrine. See p.31 ■ Take a stroll, have a picnic, or get some exercise in Lumphini Park. See p.33 ■ Visit the Thailand Creative & Design Centre for great exhibits and lectures. See p. 47 ■ Catch a free movie at one of Bangkok’s foreign cultural centres. See p.59 bangkok 101

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■ Witness the fish feeding frenzy at Tha Pra Nok, Tha Thewet and Wang Lang river piers. See inside back cover map. ■ Ride the cross-river public ferries on the Chao Phraya (okay, so it costs B3). See inside back cover map.

sightseeing

Sightseeing

suggested itinerary

nce a suburban backwater dominated by a stretch of rice fields, sukhumvit has evolved into the residential destination of choice for aspirational Thais and the expats who work with them. As a result, it has developed its own ‘village culture’ – marked by twee cafés, achingly hip boutiques and a veritable nation of day spas. in other words, when temple and museum-weariness set in, sukhumvit could very well offer the perfect antidote. Agalico

Get a quick jump on the day and loosen up with a morning jog around the lake in benjakitti Park. Located adjacent to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, which hosts world class expos weekly (see calendar pp.14-15), it is easily accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. Now you’re probably hungry, so exit the park via the north end gates. Walk towards Sukhumvit and you will find Crêpes and Co. nestled away in a quiet soi, where they serve an excellent all-day brunch (see p.77). For a quick shot of culture, nothing beats a jaunt to Asok road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross) to the siam society (see also Baan Khamthieng, p.28), an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures and exhibitions. After Asoke, it’s on the Skytrain and off to Phrom Phong station. Here you will find the cultural epicentre of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, emporium. While you can easily get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, world-class designers and up-and-coming Thai labels here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and Design

Crêpes and Co

Center (TCDC) on the 6th floor (see galleries p.47), which continually stages thought-provoking, and usually free, exhibitions. And even better yet, TCDC is a short escalator ride away from the food floor, a United Nations of culinary possibilities. If your back is aching from scrutinising all that art, why not hit the spa? Down Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo) is Divana Divine, very popular with expats. A different (perhaps more radical) option for those in need of some detoxing: the hydrotherapy colonic at rasayana retreat on Sukhumvit 39, which costs B2,500 and takes about 45 minutes. After your treatment, you can refuel with a smoothie at Rasayana’s “living foods” café or take a short cab or tuktuk ride down to Sukhumvit Soi 51, and turn at the first right you see. Here stands Agalico (see tea, p.78), an all-white tea lounge situated in a lush garden. Only open weekends, it’s a hidden sanctuary for Bangkokians Benjakitti Park

Divana Divine

sukhumvit

Shades of Retro

sightseeing

bangkok 101

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looking for a good cuppa and some fresh air. Shopaholics can probe Thong Lo further, staking out über-hip Playground! for designer clothing, jewellery and books. Hop on over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice of neon Tokyo and watch as beautiful people and their even prettier cars roll in. Once dinnertime rolls around, head immediately around the corner to “Japan Town” in Thong Lo Soi 13, where a clutch of Japanese restaurants catering to local expats lurks; Uomasa, in the unmissable wooden Nihomura compound, is particularly recommended for sashimi lovers. Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, the night time is definitely the right time. People craving a drink and some conversation need look no further than antique store/café shades of retro (see bars p.91), where the ambience is very laid-back. Alternately, if you still have some room for dessert, bangkok 101

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don’t even hesitate and head immediately to Coffee beans by Dao on Ekkamai (Sukhumvit 63). Located on the ground floor of a condominium, the cheesecakes at this local hi-so favourite are out of this world. After satisfying your sugar intake, those looking to make a very Thai night of it (coke and whiskey, a Thai live band, mini-skirted girls) can head to the jam- packed and ironically-named Nang Len, which means “to sit around” in Thai. However you’d probably win the lottery before you find a seat here on the weekends.

Uomasa

sightseeing

Sightseeing

suggested itinerary

Pathumwan

Panthip Plaza

siam and Pratunam

Jim Thompson’s House

he Pratunam and Siam Square districts are famed as a shopper’s paradise. From the chaos of the shop-4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MbK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. Hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the erawan shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the canal (khlong) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 103), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand. Once you have had your fill of clothes shopping, continue up the road. Soaring above the skyline is the

baiyoke Tower, which provides a wonderful 360-degree panoramic view of Bangkok and offers the perfect opportunity for a snack. (see p. 92) Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet a

rest and take a boat ride. Get on a boat heading west and get off at Jim Thompson’s House (see p. 28). Jim Thompson’s House is Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination after the Grand Palace (see p. 29). It is a wonderful place to wander around and perhaps indulge in yet another snack or two at the café. After all this walking, a sit-down is probably in order. On the top floor of the nearby siam Paragon is a fantastic cinema complex, where for the cost of a normal movie ticket in the West, you can treat yourself to a ‘luxury cinema’ screening (see p.60).

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Erawan Shrine

sightseeing

bangkok 101

Sightseeing

suggested itinerary

Silom Village

Lumphini Park

silom & sathorn

he sathorn/silom area personifies bangkok’s split personality. The white collar, bustling crux of bangkok’s business world by day, this whirlwind area houses a grab bag of cultural and religious sites. but when night falls this area hustles, gyrates, and rears a very different head. Home to a large chunk of bangkok’s corporate world, this area spilling with yuppies and bigwigs during the day, kicks it up a gear after office hours, with a jiving scene of clubs, expat pubs, some very shady characters, and one oh-so-slightly notorious little lane. Kukrit’s House

Lumphini Boxing Stadium

Set the alarm and beat the sun to the punch; there’s much to be done today. Skip the hotel breakfast and head out early for a more localised experience. Take the MRT to the Sam Yan stop. Here you will find an oldlooking shop house called Jok sam Yan. A legendary Thai institution for over four decades selling only one item, Jok Moo, or Rice Congee with pork. It’s immensely popular but they close at 8am, so come early! Walk towards Silom and take a venomous venture into the snake Farm (see p. 33) and watch wranglers extract poison from serpents, and if you dare you can even pet a cobra or kiss a python! If you’re still alive, continue on your earlier path and shop for some sumptuous silk items at Jim Thompson’s flagship store on Surawong Road. Once you have all your ties and linens, take a nice stroll in Lumphini, Bangkok’s largest public park. If it’s the weekend take a taxi into the past with former P.M. Kukrit’s heritage house. (see p. 28) Go back down tree-lined Convent Road, known as Bangkok’s French quarter for its cluster of French cafés, butcher shop and a bakery, La boulange, where you can have a light lunch or grab a freshly baked baguette. Another option is the silver Palace snapshots

restaurant in Silom Soi 3 for some excellent dim sum. After filling up follow the throngs of office workers into soi Lalai sup (The Soi that melts your assets), squeezing through the chaos, hunt down bargains on clothes, gifts and other knick-knack paddy wacks. Farther down Silom on Thanon Pan, you will come across Wat Mahamariamman. Referred to by locals as Wat Kaek, it is the most famous Hindu temple in Bangkok and rituals are performed here daily at noon. Right across the street is Kathmandu Gallery (see p.47) featuring great photo exhibits, and also silom Village which is a nice spot to pick up some handicrafts. Go through Chong Nonsi and look for Sathorn Soi 12. Loosen up with a massage at Health Land spa, originally an organic health food store and vegetarian restaurant, it’s now a full yfledged spa centre. This experience is about to pick up speed. Cab it to Lumphini National boxing stadium (see p.114) around the corner, which will guarantee adrenaline rushes, as young men kick and punch the hell out of each other. For something less violent, suan Lum Night bazaar (see p. 102), a pricier but less sweaty version of Chatuchak is just seconds away. Seafood restaurants abound here and the Joe Louis Puppet Theater (see p.58) is great for a cultural show. There’s also a great beer garden. Once it’s nice and dark, head up to the top floor of the Banyan Tree and ascend the aptly titled Moon bar at Vertigo (see p. 92). 200 metres above the pavement this bar’s main attraction bangkok 101

Vertigo

clubs in silom soi 4 will suffice. If you’re gay, look no further than samesex central, silom soi 2. And if you’re feeling frisky and don’t mind being harassed by aggressive touts, immerse yourself in the decadent not-sounderworld that is soi Patpong. Be careful around here and do not follow strangers offering you free shows. But don’t hold back, because whatever you choose to do in this part of town at this time, you’re most likely to wake up with no recollection of it. Refer to our Brunch section p.77 for some good cures.

is the completely unobstructed 360° Bangkok panorama. Do not stray too far over the railing as the only thing to break your fall here is the concrete sidewalk. Once you’ve soaked it all in, or if your knees are shaking, descend back to street level. The night is still far too young. For some rowdy (and raunchy) times back to silom you go. There’s still some shopping to be done here as many street vendors are just starting their day selling trinkets, antiques, clothes, and the ever-present dodgy DVDs. Piracy guaranteed! If you’re looking for something a bit Suan Lum Night Baza ar more hip, the bars and

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sightseeing

Sightseeing

historic buildings JiM THOMPsON’s HOUse (map C3, #16) | 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 under 25) American businessman Jim Thompson was largely responsible for the worldVimanmek Mansion wide popularity of Thai silk. His love for Thai craft and culture, however, was M. r. KUKriT’s HOUse not purely directed toward silk and his s i (map g h t s C4, e e i#20) n g 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn house is a testament to his commitment Rd | 02-286-8185 | Sat-Sun, holidays to maintaining and celebrating Thai art 10am-5pm, weekdays by appt. only | and culture. Over the years his fame adults B50, Kids B20. BTS Chong Nonsi has spread, in part due to his mysteriKukrit Pramoj was ous disappearance in Malaysia in 1967 one of Thailand’s when over an Easter weeked retreat most-loved stateshe went out walking in the Cameron men in the 20th Highlands and never returned, inspiring century. A natural conspiratorial myths and sealing the all-rounder, he was legend. At the time of his disappearance, a poet, a writer and even ser ved Jim Thompson had lived in Thailand for as prime minister in the 1970s. His nearly 22 years. The Jim Thompson peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, complex houses six traditional teak now on show to the public and off houses from around the country, each the tourist trail, is a terrific example of tastefully decorated with art pieces and traditional Thai architecture. antiques from around Southeast Asia. บานหมอมราชวงศ คึกฤทธิ์ There’s also a shop selling his trademark 19 ซ.พระพินิจ ถ.สาทรใต silk designs and a small bAAN KHAMTHieNG บานไทย จิมทอมปสัน (map D3, #21) 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 | 6 ซ.เกษมสันต 2 ถ.พระราม 1 02-661-6471~7 | www.siam-society.org Tues-Sat 9am-5pm | adults B100 | students B50. BTS Asok MRT Sukhumvit. Baan Khamthieng is an antique wooden house from the nor th which was painstakingly rebuilt in Bangkok. It serves as a museum for the Siam Society, an organisation which documents and preserves traditional Thai culture. It’s a neat place to view gardens, ancient Thai manuscripts, maps and art. Jim Thompson

บานคำเที่ยงและสยามโซไซตี้ 131 สุขุมวิท ซ.21 sightseeing

ViMANMeK MANsiON (map b2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569, 02-628-6300~9 daily 9am-4pm | B100 | dress properly The stately Vimanmek Mansion is the world’s largest teakwood building. This masterpiece was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang in 1868 and then moved piece by piece to Bangkok where it was used by Rama V as his residence. Its 81 rooms are spread over three floors, which overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of Rama V’s possessions collected from international trips, are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom. Other valuable artefacts on display include period antique photographs, fine porcelain, gold and silverware, and superb glassware. Behind the main building, a smaller museum houses a good selection of exquisite Thai handicrafts sponsored by Queen Sirikit’s SUPPORT charity foundation. Converted from the stables, which once housed the king’s albino elephants, the Chang Ton Royal Elephant Museum sports a collection of historical pachyderm paraphernalia. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. If you time your visit right, make it a point to stick around for free traditional Thai dance performances (at 10:30am and 2pm) outside the mansion.

พระที่นั่งวิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสิต

bangkok 101

palaces

Wang Suan Pakkard

THe GrAND PALACe (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B250 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress properly Despite your being able to visit many stunning sights on the Grand Palace grounds, including the incredible Wat Phra Kaew – or Temple of the Emerald Buddha (see. p.25), most of the actual palace is off-limits. As the king has moved his residence to Chitralada Palace in northern Bangkok, the Grand Palace is now only used for major ceremonies or royal functions. Its exterior – an interesting blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth a look and there are a couple of staterooms and halls that are open to visitors. These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the king still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. Multilingual tour guides can be hired here.

พระบรมมหาราชวัง ถ.หนาพระลาน ใกลทองสนามหลวง

PHAYA THAi PALACe (map C3) King Mongkut Hospital | Ratchwithi Rd BTS Victory Monument | Mon-Fri 8:30am- 4:30pm | free Built in 1909, Phaya Thai Palace was a cottage to which Rama V could escape at weekends. It later housed a r adio station, before the whole place was turned into a hospital. The only structure remaining is the Thewaratsaparom Throne Hall, a stunning glassand-wood building that was mostly used as a theatre. The rooms inside are built and decorated in western styles, complete with French doors, a grand staircase, a fireplace and an elaborately carved ceiling. Since the palace is on the King Mongkut Hospital grounds, the banyan trees next to the building are used for shade by the staff, but the palace’s interior is open to visitors. This is a quiet, secluded place for a breather.

พระราชวังพญาไท โรงพยาบาลพระมงกุฏ ถ.ราชวิถี

WANG sUAN PAKKArD (map C3, #15) Sri Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | 02-245-4934| daily 9am-4pm | B100 A former market garden, this was c o nve r t e d i n t o a residence and garden by Pr incess Chumbot of Nakhon Sawan. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion, which depicts scenes from the Buddha’s life and the Ramayana.

วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี

ANANTA sAMAKHOM PALACe Throne Hall (map b2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | daily 8:30am-4pm | B20 Previously the parliament building, this stately palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. It is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session but other sessions are held at the new parliament nearby.The interior was influenced by renaissance architecture and the dome is decorated with detailed frescoes of royal ceremonies and festivities.

พระทีน่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท องใน ดุสติ

Beware! Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being ‘befriended’ by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a personalised shopping tour for jewelry. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how ofﬁcial they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed for any seemingly logical reason, you are most likely being set up. Our advice is to politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during ofﬁcial opening hours). If you’ve experienced any such scams in Bangkok, please e-mail us so that we can continue to advise fellow travellers. bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

temples

WAT sAKeT (map b3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | daily 7:30am-5:30pm| B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offer s great views of Chinatown to the south and the old city to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | daily 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-centur y centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an impor tant university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ถ.หนาพระลาน สนามหลวง

WAT sUTHAT and THe GiANT sWiNG (map A-b3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-222-9632 | daily 9am-5pm | B20 surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of buddhist supply shops in bangkok, Wat suthat is one of the most important buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงขามเสาชิงชา

WAT bOWONNiWeT ViHArA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu 02-281-2831-3 | daily, all day long | free Home to the respected Maha Makut Buddhist U n i v e r s i t y, t h i s temple is particularly impor tant to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ sightseeing

The Giant Swing

WAT beNCHAMA bOPHiT (map b2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-628-7947 | daily 8am-6pm B20 This white Italian C ar r ar a mar ble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings.

วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5

WAT rATCHANATDA (map b3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-224-8807 | daily 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good for tune.

วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TrAiMiT (map b3, #13) 661 Hualampong, Charoen Krung Rd, 02-623-1226 | daily 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

bangkok 101

Wat Arun

WAT PHrA KAeW – Temple of the emerald buddha (map A3, #9) Na Phra Lan Rd |02-222-0094, 02222-6889 | daily 8:30 am-3:30pm | B250 includes access to Grand Palace and Vimanmek Mansion | dress properly The home to Thailand’s most sacred relic – the Emerald Buddha – and the country’s most stunning temple, Wat Phra Kaew was completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, and forms the northeastern corner of the Grand Palace complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434 when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the stone beneath. It was then moved around northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings before being taken by the Lao to Vientiane. Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and brought it back to Thailand where he placed it at the centre of his new capital. It is the most sacred Buddha image in Thailand, and hundreds pay their respects to it every day. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the majesty of the temple, Wat Phra Kaew also features excellent examples of mural art, documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic.

WAT PO – reclining buddha (map A3, #11) Chetuphon/Thaiwong Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | daily 8am-noon, 1-5pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45-metre-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-ofpearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร ผั่งตะวันตกของแมน้ำเจาพระยา

erAWAN sHriNe (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | daily 6:30am- 10:30pm | free | BTS Chit Lom Apart from the many temples across the city, there is a far greater number of small shrines where Thais pay their respects to various deities and spirits. Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god brahma and his elephant erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which performs for a nominal fee.

วัดพระแกว ถ.หนาพระลาน ใกลทองสนามหลวง

bangkok 101

WAT ArUN Temple of the Dawn (map A3, #12) Arun Amarin Rd | 02-465-5640 | www.watarun.org | daily 8am-5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s important religious sites. before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the emerald buddha was temporarily housed here. The fivetowered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by rama i on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

sightseeing

Sightseeing

museums THe NATiONAL MUseUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-224-1333 | www.thailandmuseum. com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B40 Previously a palace dur ing the reign of R a ma V, t h e National Museum features extensive displays of T hai ar tefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑสถานแหงชาติ 5 ทาเจาฟา ใกลทอ งสนามหลวง

MUseUM OF COUNTerFeiT GOODs (map C3) 64 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | 02-263-7700 | www.tillekeandgibbins.com | by appointment only | BTS Chit Lom Condemn it or not, forger y is a huge draw for some. In 1989, the law firm Tilleke & Gibbins decided to convert collected fake goods into educational tools for law students. An entertaining site – fromToblerone chocolate bars to bellybutton rings, from anti-malarial tablets to fake MSG – 1,500 pieces are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals. Call for an appointment and please don’t use it as means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong later that day.

พิพธิ ภัณฑสนิ คาปลอมและเลียนแบบ ซ.ตนสน ถนนเพลินจิต

THe erAWAN MUseUM Sukhumvit Rd (entering Samut Prakhan) | www.erawan-museum.com | daily 8am-6pm | B150 admission Just a little bit outside of the city you’ll find this simply unmissable building. Constructed in the shape of a monstrous three-headed elephant named Airavata, it would be a marvel to look at on its own even if it didn’t house thousands of ancient artefacts within. One of Samut Prakhan’s many worldrecord holders, it was constructed by the owners of the Ancient City and is believed to be the world’s largest elephant structure at 17-storeys tall. It is separated into three “worlds” with the lowest section called the Underworld, further up is the Earth and inside the Erawan structure itself is Heaven, each with a different collection of items, from religious artefacts to Thai Benjarong ceramics. The building itself is also a site of worship; and rumour has it that a Thai girl prayed here before buying what turned out to be a winning lottery ticket! So keep that in mind when you make your visit.

พิพิธภัณฑชางเอราวัณ ซ. วัดไตรสามัคคี ถ. สุขุมวิท

CHiLDreN’s DisCOVerY MUseUM (map C1) Queen Sirikit Park Kamphaeng Petch 4 Rd | 02-618-6509 | www.bkkchildrenmuseum.com | Mon-Fri 9am-11am, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm | adults B70, children B50 sightseeing

rOYAL bArGe MUseUM (map A3, #5) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | daily 9am-5pm | B30 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑเรือพระราชพิธี ริมคลองบางกอกนอย ถนนอรุณอมรินทร

Near the Chatuchak weekend market, t h i s i n t e r a c t i ve museum aimed at younger guests cove r s s ci e n ce , nature and the environment. It also hosts regular courses and activity camps.

พิพิธภัณฑเด็ก สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจาสิริกิติ์ ถ.กำแพงเพชร 4 ตรงขามสวนจตุจักร

bangkok 101

FLORA rAMA iX rOYAL PArK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 |5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features.

สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103 (หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร) ประเวศ

CHATUCHAK and QUeeN siriKiT PArKs (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | daily 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจา สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ.พหลโยธิน จตุจักร

QUeeN sAOVAbHA MeMOriAL iNsTiTUTe snake Farm (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.20 | Mon-Fri 8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 8:30am-noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B70 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom.

สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู) ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

FAUNA DUsiT zOO (map b2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | daily 8am-6pm| adults B30, kids B5 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around.

the great outdoors

cational 25-minute tour of the 2.8 million litre Oceanarium in a glassbottomed boat. You can even dive with sharks, supervised by instructors from Planet Scuba (www.sharkdive. org). Or opt to watch the penguin or shark feeding (twice daily), or for the Magical Mermaid Show (three times a day).

สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1

สวนสัตวดสุ ติ 71 ถ.พระราม 5

LUMPHiNi PArK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free The inner city’s largest stretch of green, this public park is busy as soon as the sun rises. in the early morning hours and again around sunset, bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin.

สวนลุมพินี เขาไดทาง ถ.พระราม 4 ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

river tourism

ntil the beginning of the 20th century Bangkok was devoid of asphalt roads and commerce was conducted by boat on the Chao Phraya River and its canals. The completion of the Taksin Bridge in the 1990s signalled the end of tall ships sailing into Bangkok. Nowadays the river is still an integral part of city life and travelling along it is highly recommended. Not only can you shrink journey times between the city centre and major sights, it’s a relaxing and fun way of getting around. Boats sail past many of the city’s great temples, markets and historic buildings. All manner of craft ply the river’s waters. High-speed river taxis connect a network of piers along both banks; long-tailed boats take visitors on colourful khlong tours of the city’s canals; converted rice barges ferry guests to riverside hotels and tugs pull heavily laden barges. BANGKOK ENVIRONS A great way to enjoy the river is to hire a long-tailed boat to explore the

network of the city’s interconnecting boats near BTS Saphan Taksin station canals. Bangkok is at its greenest and are one easy way to get a taste of most peaceful here, and it’s a relief river travel. Better yet, check out one to escape the stifling traffic for a few of the neat lunch or dinner cruises listed below. hours. Along the river’s main artery are many of Bangkok’s top hotels: The Ori- AYUTTHAYA ental, Shangri-La, Peninsula, Sheraton Okay, it’s a cliché, but leaving the highand Hilton, as well as colonial architec- rise skyline of Bangkok for the ruins ture like the former headquarters of of the ancient capital of Ayutthaya is like a journey into the the Asiatic Trading past. Pass by the suburCompany. River Cruises ban waterways until the Most cruises pass skyline of spires, stupas Wat Arun before ■ APSARA CRUISES and minarets diminish leaving the open river 02-679-1200 www.banyantree.com in favour of greener enfor the khlongs of ■ Chao Phraya virons. Ayutthaya boat Bangkok Noi and CRUISE 02-541-5599 excursions are highly recBang Kruay. You can www.chaophrayacruise.com ommended. Most day hire long-tailed boats ■ Grand Pearl trips (the Grand Pearl at the Oriental Pier Cruise 02-861-0255 Cruise is popular) go for around B400 per www.grandpearlcruise.com one way by boat and the hour. A cheaper op■ Horizon Cruise other by bus. Overnighttion is to jump on a 02-266-8165~6 ing? The intimate Manohra river taxi; scheduled www.shangri-la.com Song and Manohra Dream, stops are highlighted ■ River Sun Cruise 02-266-9125~6 converted rice barges, ofon the map inside www.riversuncruise.co.th fer splendid 3-day cruises, the back cover. Free ■ Manohra Cruises while the Mekhala runs riverside hotel shuttle 02-477-0770 2-day trips. www.manohracruises.com ■ Mekhala 02-253-6992 www.mekhalacruise.com

Apsara

Chao Phraya

sightseeing

KOH KRED On the way to Ayutthaya, this small river island is home to a Mon community renowned for the quality of their ceramics. There are some interesting Buddhist artefacts on Koh Kred and with no cars on the island, the pace of life is far removed from the bustle of the city. Best by long-tailed boat during the week or on weekends by Chao Phraya Express. bangkok 101

Grand Pearl Cruises

Cruising in the lap of Luxury on the Chaophraya River...

"ZVUUIBZB 5IBJMBOE~T 8PSME )FSJUBHF "ODJFOU $JUZ Ayutthaya Cruise: 07:30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 16:00 (daily)

Be taken back by the marvelous architecture and rich cultural heritage of Ayutthayaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bang Pa-In Palace. After paying homage and receiving a blessing at three of Ayutthayaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous temples (Wat Mahatad, Wat Phrasrisanphet and Wihan Phramongkon Bophit), sit back and relax as you enjoy a fantastic buffet lunch while cruising back to Bangkok. Enjoy the sights and sounds of life along the historic Chaophraya River from the luxury of Grand Pearl Cruises. Your holiday wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be complete until youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve experienced Grand Pearl Cruises.

$IBPQISBZB CZ $BOEMFMJHIU

Candlelight Dinner Cruise: 19:30 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 21:30 (every night)

Enjoy Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enchanting cultural heritage as you cruise past some of Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most beautiful landmarks. Relax under the stars as you watch Thai â&#x20AC;&#x153;Khonâ&#x20AC;? classical dance or listen to our live pop and jazz music on the 360-degree panoramic decks. Our elegant buffet serves up European, Japanese, Thai and international cuisine.

0QFO EBJMZ

Lunch 11.30 am. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 02.30 pm. Dinner 06.00 pm. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 12.00 am.

French philosophy for food is simple: no more than four, top-quality ingredients. So we added a unique band, contemporary dĂŠcor, epicurean French cuisine complemented by a world-class wine list, and, of course, the river. La Grande Perleâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the ultimate dining experience.

(SBOE 1FBSM $SVJTFT QSPWJEFT B XJEF BSSBZ PG DBUFSJOH TFSWJDFT JODMVEJOH NFFUJOHT QSFTT DPOGFSFODFT QVCMJD SFMBUJPOT FWFOUT TUBGG QBSUJFT CJSUIEBZ QBSUJFT ESFBN XFEEJOHT BOE NPSF "MM $SVJTFT EFQBSU GSPN UIF 3JWFS $JUZ 4IPQQJOH $PNQMFY 1JFS 4JQISBZB 3PBE 4PJ $IBSPFOLSVOH OFYU UP UIF 3PZBM 0SDIJE 4IFSBUPO )PUFM

(SBOE 1FBSM $PNQBOZ -JNJUFE

For reservations phone 0-2861-0255 # 201-204 or e-mail address: rsvn@grandpearlcruise.com 123-125 Soi Charoennakhorn 13, Charoennakhorn Rd., Klongtonsai, Klongsarn, Bangkok 10600, Thailand Fax. 0-2861-0446 www.grandpearlcruise.com

3JWFS $JUZ 4IPQQJOH $PNQMFY IBT 4IVUUMF #PBUT TFSWJDFT GSPN 5BSLTJO #SJEHF UP 3JWFS $JUZ 4IPQQJOH $PNQMFY GSPN IST 'SFF PG $IBSHF

-B (SBOEF 1FSMF

23 River City Shopping Complex, Room No. 122-126, Trok Rongnamkheang, Soi Charoenkrung 30, Sampanthawong, Bangkok 10100 Tel. 0-2237-0077-8 ext. 125-126 Fax. 0-2639-8079 E-mail.mailto:lagrandeperle@grandpearlcruise

Sightseeing Lopburi

day tripping

t ’s e a s y g e t t i n g a r o u n d i n Thailand, and there are plentiful wor thwile excursions within e a s y re ac h of B ang kok ; so me one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent. AYUTTHAYA The capital of Thailand from the 14th to the 18th centuries it was one of the richest cities in the East during its heyday, but after it was attacked by the Burmese in 1767, most of the city was destroyed. It was then deserted when the capital was relocated to Bangkok and the ruins left to be overtaken by nature. However, over the past 30 years the remnants of the city have been renovated into a UNESCO historical park, which, at 85kms from Bangkok, makes an ideal daytrip from the city. The best way to get to Ayutthaya is by the river and there are trips available for every budget. The major riverside hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by

coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City. Once at Ayutthaya, hire a bike and see the highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit, Wat Na Phra Meru, Wat Phra Mahathat and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. LOPBURI Those inspired by the ruins of Ayutthaya can continue the experience in Lopburi, which features ruins from a period spanning over 1,000 years. During the Dvaravati period (6th11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo but traces were wiped out

by the Khmers, who took over the region during Angkor’s heyday in the 10th century. The Thais subsequently took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. During the reign of King Narai in the 1600s, the city was for a time the country’s second capital when he fortified the city in response to the Dutch navy threatening Ayutthaya. King Narai built a palace in the city, the remnants of which survive to this day and are open to the public. In addition, the surrounding countryside offers a number of crumbling wats, in a mixture of Khmer and Thai styles.

Floating MarketS Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose.

DAMNOEN SADUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 15-30 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang. GETTING THERE By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 434-5558).

sightseeing

TALING CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday, Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly. GETTING THERE By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-4245448 or 02-424-1712).

AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too.This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in.This littleknown treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season. GETTING THERE By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram. The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram. bangkok 101

BANG PA-IN SUMMER PALACE Highway 32, 60kms north of Bangkok, Baanlen, Bang Pa-In | 035-26-1044 | daily 8am-4pm | B100 A former Royal retreat, the Royal Palace here is a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly reflecting Rama V’s love for Western styles. Bang Pa-In was initially used as a retreat during the Ayutthaya period but was somewhat forgotten when the capital moved south to Bangkok. However it became popular again as travel became easier from Bangkok and King Mongkut (Rama IV) built himself a residence here. Apart from the contrasting architecture of the palace and its beautiful lake and garden, there’s not much of interest to warrant a full day’s visit so many combine the palace with a trip to nearby Ayutthaya. MUANG BORAN (Ancient City) Old Sukhumvit Rd Km 33, Samut Prakan | 02-323-9252 | daily 8am-5pm | B50 adults, B25 children Only have a day to see the whole country? The Ancient City was made for you. This museum park, designed in the shape of Thailand, features model representations of its historical buildings, temples and architectural heritage. Renting a bicycle is recommended as the park is fairly large and takes a full day to view properly. Should you want to watch some animal gymnastics before returning to Bangkok, the Samut

Prakan Crocodile Farm offers daily crocodile wrestling or elephant shows. NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120-metre-high chedi, the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century stupa. Situated around 55kms west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in the Kingdom, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history. On the chedi grounds, a small museum displays some interesting Buddhist artefacts and a small shop stocks various related paraphernalia. KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film Bridge on the River Kwai, this town is a popular weekend getaway, offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreign visitors are attracted by the area’s history – the Thai Burma ´Death´ Railway, built by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II, was notorious due to its high casualty count and seemingly impossible route. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The 120-minute trip offers spectacular scenery and the chance to marvel at the extreme difficulties of its construction. The countryside around Kanchanaburi is also stunning and home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with the nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking opportunities.

KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Home to wild elephants, deer, boar, and tigers, as well as uncountable species of birdlife, this enormous forest is one of the world’s best national parks. Visitors can hike through the jungle to altitudes of over 1,000 metres. It’s best to hire a guide as it’s easy to get lost - the park is over 2,000 square kilometres in size, and local maps are not to be completely trusted. NAKHON RATCHASIMA One of Thailand’s silk weaving centres and an important trade hub, this is the country’s largest province and host to Korat, its second-largest city. The surrounding countryside has a fine collection of ancient Khmer ruins, left over from the Angkor period. Of these, worth a visit are Prasat Phanomwan, Prang Ban Ku, Prang Sida and Prasat Hin Phimai, the largest of these ruins and recently restored.

Nakhon Pathom

NEARBY BEACHES No time to jet down to Koh Samui or Phuket? A handful of beach resorts and islands close to Bangkok are perfect for much-needed respite. ■ PATTAYA/JOMTIEN Most famous for its seedy nightlife, Pattaya’s been trying – well, sort of – to re-establish itself as a family destination. Hundreds of hotels and eateries ensure competitive prices; sister town Jomtien is still a better option. bangkok 101

Koh Chang

■ KOH CHANG A large jungle-clad hilly gem that’s been found by the deluxe hotel industry. Spending the night in hammocks is impossible, but fantastic beaches are still here. Ferry or fly here via Trat. ■ KOH SAMET A retreat for hip Thai youngsters who invade the island to spend days swimming in clear waters and nights playing the guitar on super-clean beaches.

■ HUA HIN/CHA-AM The royal summer residence town receives hordes of Thai families and package tourists. The long beach is satisfying, and is dotted with plenty of topnotch resorts like Chiva Som, the Evason, Hyatt Regency, Hilton and more. The piers filled with seafood restaurants are more of an attraction, as is the addictive night market. Nearby Cha-am is Hua Hin’s smaller, less developed sister.

sightseeing

Sightseeing

day trip Chirayu na Ranong

Wat Sothon Talad Ban Mai

Photography by TAT and Rainbow Arokaya

Rainbow Arokaya Set up in a lush tropical oasis along the Bang Pakong River, Rainbow Arokaya combines the serenity of natural surroundings, professionalism of well-trained staff and the most advanced technology in one paradiselike package. Aura scanning, bed massage, dome sauna and infrared Jacuzzi are just a few of the treatments offered there. For an even more unique experience, try their famous “Chi Sand Spa”. This infrared detoxification program using heated volcanic stones gets rid of fat and toxins in record time. Plunge yourself into a 52˚C tub for 10 minutes and you’ll be sure to lose at least 300 grams!! Rainbow Arokaya Holistic Longevity & Health Center lives up to its name – not only providing short-term well-being for its guests, but also teaching the secrets of longevity: how to work on your body structure, eat healthier, balance your mind and body through meditation and proper sleep, as well as how to reduce risks of high blood pressure, diabetes, arthritis, obesity, heart disease and high cholesterol. www.rainbowarokaya.com | 02-318-7008 38

Chachoengsao

ultural wonders, a hundred-year-old market, breath-taking scenery and even some dolphins. For a short trip out of Bangkok, Chachoengsao has it all. Just about an hour’s drive from the capital, the province is a welcome change from bumpy and rattling Bangkok. Here you will find spirituality and tranquillity among temples and wildlife. Chachoengsao is also known as Pad Rew, or “eight strips” – a name derived from the fact that dried fish is sliced into eight instead of the five pieces because the fish in Chachoengsao are larger due to the province’s immense fertility. No visit is complete without taking in the town symbol, Wat Sothon Wararamworawiharn, housing the sacred Buddha “Luang Pho Sothon” which is believed to have blessed the province with fertility. It will be especially jam-packed this month with visitors from all over coming to pay their respects during Chinese New Year. The temple is located near the banks of the Bang Pakong River where most of the population make their residence. Another must is the metre-high Kuan Im statue, which was found floating along in the river one day long ago. Some savvy locals spotted it and rescued it from the waters and placed it inside the Sawang Sattatham Foundation. For some nostalgia, stop by Talad Ban Mai on the river banks, also known as the 100-year-old market. All the vendors still maintain the simple lifestyle of days past, conserving the Rama V era shop houses and selling great Thai and Chinese fare. A little bit outside the central Muang district in Bang Khla is the Monument of King Taksin the Great. Constructed to commemorate his victory over the Burmese in Ayutthaya, the original pagoda was destroyed due to erosion but a replica has been put in its place. It’s also a great spot for river views. Over in Tambon Paknam you will find Baan Paknam or the ‘Palm Juice Village’.You can watch the entire process of palm juice production. Products available to taste and purchase include palm juice and jaggery cakes. In the village and elsewhere, it is believed that palm flowers can help cure diabetes. This province is also great for a little bit of wildlife adventure. Rent a boat to see the sights around Chachoengsao. Head down the Bang Pakong River to see the oldest teak houses as well as ancient temples, fortresses and raft houses. For a real treat around this time, numerous dolphins will migrate from the Gulf of Thailand to Chachoengsao because of the abundance of catfish in Bang Pakong during this time of year.They are here during November to February. If you have some extra time to spend in Chachoengsao and are looking for something peaceful and different, spend a night or two in one of Rainbow Arokaya’s wooden riverside houses, where you can take a ride on the river while dining and watching the sun go down, and experience some new wellness and healh-care procedures (see box). GETTINGTHERE n By Train: Trains leave regularly from Hua Lamphong Station from 5:55am to 6:25pm (B13/B40) n By Car: Highway No.304, via Min Buri (82 km) sightseeing

n By Bus: - From Mo Chit 2 Bus Terminal, buses leave every 40 min. from 4am to 9pm - From Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai), buses leave every 30 min. from 5:30am to 9pm (B77/B60) bangkok 101

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of bangkok. instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

upcountry festivals

Underwater Wedding Ceremony – Feb.13-15

Chiang Mai Flower Festival – Feb.1-3

This annual event, first held in 1977, showcases another side of Chiang Mai’s beauty. The town is home to some of the world’s most beautiful flowers, which are in full bloom roughly around new year’s time. It boasts parades, exhibitions, the obligatory beauty pageant, and the opportunity to take home some floral souvenirs. A highlight of the show are the flower floats which utilize different colours and shades to form patterns and words, each float telling a unique story.

Las Vegas can have their dorky Star Wars and Elvis weddings. We’ll celebrate matrimony under the sea. A truly unique annual experience which takes place around Valentine’s Day in Trang province where a line of couples, both old and new, sign up to exchange vows among the fish and the reef. The spouses-to-be receive a grand parade through the centre of town and have the event videotaped under water.The original event back in 2000 drew 30 participants, set a Guinness World Record and received international coverage.

Phratat Phanom Fair 2008 – Feb. 14-23

This nine-day annual fair takes place in Nakhon Phanom at the humongous Phratat Phanom which stands over 50 metres tall. A symbol of the northeast, it is said that it enshrines a relic of the Buddha inside. People from all around descend upon the province to pay their respects and give alms to this historic site that archaeologists say was built over 1,500 years ago.

Taking place on the ruins of King Narai Palace in Lopburi, this fair celebrates the life of the great king of Ayutthaya, who was a driving force towards expanding and improving Thailand’s diplomatic relationships with the western world. There will be a progression of various beautiful period costumes, along with the usual food, fun and entertainment that is a mainstay of all great fairs in Thailand.

3rd annual Phuket Blues Festival – Feb.22-23

Phra nakorn Khiri Fair – Feb.1-10

A fairy tale-ish palatial compound perched atop a hill, Phra Nakorn Khiri or Khao Wang (Palace Hill) in Petchburi, was the summer palace of King Rama VI. This annual fair celebrates the region’s history over five festive days where locals reenact the procession of monarchs who ruled the area. There will also be cooking demonstrations of the province’s famous dishes and desserts. bangkok 101

King narai Reign Fair – Feb.16-20

Head down to the Southern tropical paradise for a weekend of Blues, as top acts from Thailand like Soi Dog Blues, Cannonball, Full House, Blues Machine, and Boy Blues Band are joined with headliners from the USA for two days of the very best of blues rock.The event will once again be held at the Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort and Spa in Karon Beach and proceeds will be given to charity. sightseeing

Sightseeing

upcountry escape

ChIang MaI Coming attractions!

Oliver Benjamin

he second incarnation of the 101 series is all but ready to go! As we put the finishing touches on Chiang Mai 101, here’s a little glimpse for those of you who just can’t wait for what’s in store this April. CM101 promises to be the all-in-one, independent, unbiased authority on Thailand’s northern gem. so let’s get to it. And always remember, Travel Well.

SEE

MUSEUMS Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center … If you visit only one museum in Chiang Mai, make it this one. Broad in scope but with an affectionate attention to detail, this museum is Chiang Mai writ small – everything that makes Chiang Mai charming is on display…

The Museum of World Insects and Natural Wonders … The entrance price of 300 baht may seem expensive, but that’s because it’s small – like a diamond. Ignore the logic of this and pony up the surprisingly high fee, however, and you’ll be richly rewarded with a shining jewel of unforgettable spiritual-environmentalentomological-artistic outlandishness…

Wat JetYot (Temple of the seven Peaks) … This temple’s seven-spired square chedi was patterned after the sacred Mahabodhi Temple in Bodhgaya, India, the place where the Buddha was enlightened. That’s because Wat Jet Yot was built especially for the 8th World Buddhist Council in 1447, a privileged event so rare it took place only every two hundred years or so…

The Tribal Museum … The perfect setting for a museum devoted to Northern Thailand’s nature-loving inhabitants of the highlands, its hill-tribes. Though these generally undocumented denizens sometimes get short shrift from the government, they are one of the principal reasons tourists make their way to the region…

TEMPLES Wat Chedi Luang (Temple of the big stupa) … The chedi was mostly destroyed in a 16th-century earthquake, and was restored with the aid of UNESCO in the 1990s. Furthermore, the world-famous Emerald Buddha at Bangkok’s Grand Palace was originally housed here back in the 15th century…

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep (Temple of the Holy bone at suthep Mountain) … On a clear day, the view from the temple lookout is magnificent, on a hazy day, less so. It’s also perhaps the only temple in town with its own website: www.doisuthep.com. Note that there are other rewarding sights to see on the mountain besides the temple: Phu Ping Palace and its botanical gardens, a waterfall, an interesting coffee plantation, and some friendly hill-tribe villages a bit further on…

BUY

Photography by TAT

… Once a week a significant por tion of the Old City becomes a mandatory walking tour when the Sunday Walking Street shuts off all traffic and thousands of vendors display the fruits of their imagination, or sometimes just fruit. Don’t miss it – it is easily one of the most enjoyable shopping experiences in Asia… Wat Chedi Luang

sightseeing

bangkok 101

The Four Seasons Chiang Mai

The Restaurant at The Chedi

… Farther on, down by the river and slightly to the south of Tha Pae Road stands the main market, dalat warorot, also known to locals as kad luang. This ancient marketplace is said to be the site of city founder King Mengrai’s death, when he was hit by lightning, attracted by the golden amulets around his neck. Today it’s a wild melee of commercial enterprise, and where you can find virtually anything you’ll ever need… … Chiang Mai’s world-famous Night Bazaar, a junk-junkie’s paradise. Every kind of knock-off product you can imagine is here, but make sure to shop carefully and bargain vigorously – the vendors here can be rather on the unscrupulous side.This is the place to load up on pirated DVDs, fake Rolexes, ersatz fashions and quirky knick-knacks for the folks back home, or just yourself…

EAT

The Restaurant at The Chedi … The best reason to visit The Restaurant is for the Indian food. As far as sub-continental cooking in Chiang Mai goes, the restaurant is peerless. Perhaps The Restaurant’s most winning aspect, however, is the atmosphere– the quiet and sparsely-lit riverside garden ambience is so dreamy and bangkok 101

gentle you could easily think you had been transported in time… Dalaabaa … When this stylish restaurant appeared on the scene four years ago, residents were wowed by the chic, Balinese decor and rich, redhued walls, and it quickly became the hippest place in town for a special meal. Chiang Mai has come a long way since those innocent days, but Dalaabaa is still a top choice for a memorable night out with friends, or for a romantic but lively date… Le Grand Lanna … As the name implies, there’s an emphasis here on Northern Thai cuisine, and the regional dishes served here do as much to help preserve the best of Lanna tradition as does the stunning architecture of the place. Rounding out the old world ambience, excellent traditional dance and music performances take place nightly as well, featuring some of the North’s most talented (and impressively outfitted!) performers…

STAY

The Four Seasons Chiang Mai ... A genre-busting mix of exquisitelyconceived luxury and bucolic paddysightseeing

field heavenliness, it’s no wonder the place keeps winning so many international awards. Lounge on your private raised sala with views over the beautifully-manicured farmland and luxuriate in the lifestyle of Lanna landed gentry long ago... Rachamankha ... Lovingly modelled after a famous wat in Lampang, it’s difficult to believe the place is not in fact a painstakingly restored old temple. With nods to several regional influences, there is an otherworldly Asianesque quality to the place that seems to transcend both time and location. What’s more, its modest size ensures your experience will be as serene and soothing as the architecture implies... The Adventure Hotel ... Easily the wackiest place to stay in town, if not all of Thailand. Rooms here each boast a different theme, from spaceship to casino to Jurassic. If you can forgive the lack of any view (there are no windows) and you just want to have an unusual experience, this might be the place. Though great for naughty getaways with an affectionate fellow adventurer, it’s cartoonish and cutesy enough to appeal to families as well. 41

Sightseeing

the natural guide

anDaMan CoasT:

staying with locals during your vacation

long the Andaman shore, several thousand people live nomadically or semi-nomadically. The Mokens live on wooden boats in ranong and Phang-Nga provinces, and are one of the last communities who still embrace a lifestyle in line with spirits and nature. The Moklens, another community, were originally fishermen and farmers familiar with the mangrove swamps. Other nomadic communities live along the Phuket, Trang or satun seashores, or on the Tarutao islands.Thais call them Chao Ley, which literally means “people from the sea” and the Thai government does not recognize them as Thai citizens nor are they given basic rights. To fully embrace cultural diversity, living with locals (a practice common all over Southern Thailand) is a simple yet extraordinary way to discover other people’s lifestyles and beliefs. Most host families’ resources are based on farming, fishing or craftsmanship. Hosting tourists gives them muchneeded, additional income.

Photo courtesy of Andaman Discoveries www. andamandiscoveries.com

NATR AND COMMUNITY TOURISM In the aftermath of the tsunami, Bohdi Garrett, a young American, received many offers of help from people in love with the area. Garrett created North Andaman Tsunami relief (NATr) to channel these resources to help the villagers with food and logistics.

KURABURI AND THE SURIN ISLANDS The Kuraburi area would most likely be completely unknown amongst tourists were it not for its pier for the Surin Islands. And yet, it displays a rich cultural mix, as well as a preserved and luxurious nature. There are few hotels and tour operators near Kuraburi – tourism is hardly developed. Nevertheless, locals, with the help of NATr, offer 1,001 different ways to discover regional diversity by opening up their own homes and offering total immersion via a night’s stay with a local family. Andaman Discoveries, solidarity vacations At the heart of the real Thailand With long-term rehabilitation in mind, NATR created Andaman Discoveries, a voluntourism project which helps villagers welcome tourists. One can choose to teach English, train families to become hosts, help with workshop constructions, create community vegetable gardens, clean beaches or take part in other volunteer activities. T 087 917 7165 – www.northandamantsunamirelief.com – www. andamandiscoveries.com The Surin Islands A National Park since 1981, the Surin Islands are famous for their preserved and magnificent sea depths. In addition to not being recognized as citizens, restrictions are imposed

The Natural Guide to Thailand is the third in a series of guide books dedicated to appreciating and respecting people and the environment. Created by the bumi Kita Foundation (www.naturalguide.org), the book is written by environmentalists, anthropologists, sociologists, journalists and artists – mostly Thais and insiders – who have selected only those businesses that actively demonstrate environmental and social commitment. in each issue, Bangkok 101 presents a destination excerpt from this guide and hopes readers will consider the Natural Guide approach when travelling in Thailand. The Natural Guide to Bali is also available. 42

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bangkok 101

on the Moken’s fishing and use of natural resources. The Mokens now tend to get more involved in tourism by offering boat rides. There is no hotel, but visitors can stay in bungalows on Koh Surin Nua. Be careful though, as the park is closed from May to November. T 07 649 1378 – www. thaiforestbooking.com. KOH YAO NOI The Koh Yao Noi community has been involved in a community tourism project (Community-Based Tourism, or CBT) for ten years. Their goal is to use tourism as a supplemental income source and as a pressure tool on fishing industries that trawl illegally. Trawling uses fine-knit nets that damage coral reefs. CBT is also trying to facilitate exchanges between the island’s residents and foreign guests, which is possible due to involvement from the locals. KYN Ecotourism Club has an immersion option to stay with the locals which is different from the more traditional option where guests merely stay the night with hosts. In this case, guests spend the day with their hosts, have dinner with them, go fishing with them etc. T 07 659 7244 – M 086 299 2175

Krabi Blue Bay Bungalow Khun Nithi has charming bungalows made entirely of natural and recycled materials, linked by a small wooden bridge which makes wends through diverse vegetation. If you are interested in learning more about local lifestyle, ask to organize a visit to the Muslim fishermen’s villages on the other bank. T 07 563 0559

Tha Kao Bay View is a small hotel started on the initiative of Baan Tha Kao’s headman and has since been developed in tight collaboration with KYN Ecotourism Club. Visitors have the advantages of both a community hotel and a stay with a guest family. Bungalows are made of natural building materials such as recycled wood, bamboo and palm leaves. T 07 659 7559 – M 089 589 9105

North of Railay, in Muslim Baan Nateen village a dozen families are now opening their doors to travelers. The comfort is minimal but there’s still privacy. During the day, villagers will take you to observe and join them in their daily activities: production of coconut craftsmanship, batiks, rubber, or fishing at sea.

KRABI Krabi is a pleasant little city which provides a port of call on the way to the national parks and the islands, and visitors may enjoy spending a few days in the city to discover the wild mangrove swamps and Thara Park on the river bank.

The “home stay” project adopted by the village was conceived in 2001 with the help of TAT to limit the population’s exodus to the neighbouring tourist villages.This allowed the village residents to take advantage of tourism while still living within their community. M 081 968 8532 – T 07 563 7390 – www.thaitambon.com

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

over the border Frances Doherty

Kuala Lumpur genting

uala Lumpur means “muddy estuary” but this couldn’t be further from reality. The Malaysian capital is a sensational fusion of Malay, Chinese and indian cultures and customs. A thriving metropolis, the city’s identity is a fine blend of colourful eastern traditions set amid racing corporate buzz.

Petronas Towers

shopping mall

KTM train

sightseeing

bangkok 101

First World Hotel

GETTING THERE Daily flights from bangkok on all major airlines – Thai Airways, Malaysian Airlines, Lufthansa, and AirAsia. EAT ■ For gourmet Malay dining in a stylish setting, go to enak (www. enak.com). Great street food can be had in Chinatown and Little india. ■ For Asian fusion in an ambient atmosphere, try rashia (www. rashia.com).

bangkok 101

is a beautifully converted reserve which was formerly a garbage tip. At weekends, you will find families picnicking amid the waterfalls that filter through the jungle. Journey to the last train stop of the KTM train (Sentul station) and you’ll see where the limestone Batu caves retreat deep into the hills of Gombak, famous for the Hindu temples. The main temple offers some substantial exercise, with a 272-stair climb; visitors can also take part in caving activities that must be organised one day in advance. Situated 51km northeast of KL, the skyway cable cars of Genting Highland resort provide breathtaking views en route to Malaysia’s answer to Sin City. The Genting group includes the world’s largest hotel, the First World Hotel. An 11-minute ride in the air for just 10 ringgit (about B100) will get you to the country’s selfproclaimed entertainment capital. Thrill-seekers can experience the sensation of zero gravity on the flying coaster at the resort’s theme park, delve into a truly freezing winter experience at snowland, play a hand of blackjack at the casino or embark on some cultural exploration at the five-storey temple. Approximately 45 minutes ride from KL, a limousine service offers door-to-door service; alternatively, a luxury coach service operates from within the city. sightseeing

STAY ■ The sheraton and Traders hotels are centrally located, with rooms for $100 UsD per night and the Corus benefits from location but at a lower cost with prices starting at UsD64. Skyway cable cars

Photo courtesy of Tourism Malaysia www.tourism.gov.my & www.genting.com.my

Over the past decade Kuala Lumpur has stormed to the front of the pack of Asia’s hotspots with a ‘to do list’ as diverse as the country’s enviable landscape. Whether it’s beach, mountains or epic national parks, Malaysia has it all and KL (as it is known) is definitely the place to start the fun. Unlike Bangkok, KL does not boast much of a cab culture so be prepared to walk and use public transport; the trains in particular offer a reliable, costeffective means of moving around the city. The heart of new KL exists mostly around the Petronas Towers, which offer a free tour during the day. Here you can also find KLCC, a multi-storey shopping, cinema and dining complex that sits just over the road from the newly-built Pavilion luxury shopping mall. While the tall towers testify to Malaysia’s willingness to embrace modernity, Little india in downtown KL offers a more authentically homespun entry to the country’s dynamic culture. Heading south down the river will take you to Central Market, a bazaar specialising in local arts and crafts. Likewise, China Town is a great venue day or night, offering traditional Nyonya and Malay fare. Located over in the Northern quarter of the city, the Forest research institute of Malaysia (FriM)

Snowland

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional

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absorption of all things American and international exposure, though there European, many of Thailand’s fresh- is an increasing number of regional faced generation of artists are infatuated Asian artists displaying their works, at with the street-style, urban iconography prices often cheaper than in countries of pervasive Asian like Singapore, China cultures like Japan, and Vietnam. “Prices for art in Korea and Whether hoping Bangkok are more increasingly to per use some realistic and China. reasonable than over- e m e r g i n g l o c a l An indicator protagonist, or inflated, fashionable of the growing purchase something art centres in America, a b i t m o r e profile of Thai art Europe and could be in the commercial or increasingly China.” proliferation of traditional, one thing’s new commercial for certain – prices galleries that have opened in the last for art in Bangkok are more realistic couple of years, with Bangkok gaining and reasonable than over-inflated, over a dozen new venues in different fashionable ar t centres in America, areas across the city.These include artist Europe and increasingly China. -run spaces such as printmaker and You’ll soon realise that the city sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey doesn’t have a concentrated artistic cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s enclave; rather, there are small pockets hotbed of young conceptualists at of galleries, auction houses and Gallery VER. antiques shops randomly dispersed While Thailand’s ongoing political throughout the city. Commercial debacle has complicated ar tistic galleries are spread across town and planning in terms of protracted funding a little route planning is advised before issues, the long-awaited opening of the embarking on a day of gallery musing. new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre is On the following pages is a selection now scheduled for March this year. of notewor thy galler ies around town. GALLERIES Steven Pettifor is the author of The majority of contemporary art on Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is view in Bangkok is produced by available as a consultant to art buyers domestic practitioners, several of and can be contacted at stevenpe@ whom are now receiving significant loxinfo.co.th ar ts

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Bangkok Art Map

Ripe Project:

Trance-Formations

the Village and Harvest Time

By Nim Kruasaeng

Bangkok Art Map

Cultural Lag

Golden

By Dansoung Sungvornveshapan

By Natee Utarit

By Sakarin Krue-on

Exhibition Spotlight

Ripe Project: the Village and Harvest Time

Current Exhibitions

The most interesting shows across town

Gallery Directory

Detailing the capital’s best viewing spaces

Bangkok Ar t

Exhibition Spotlight Trance-Formations

Current Exhibitions The most interesting shows across town

Gallery Directory

Detailing the capital’s best viewing spaces

Current Exhibitions

The most interesting shows across town

Gallery Directory

Detailing the capital’s best viewing spaces

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bangkok 101

Exhibition Spotlight

The Amusement of Dreams, Hope, and Perfection

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Exhibition Spotlight From Message to Media Exhibition Current Exhibitions The most interesting shows across town

Gallery Directory

Detailing the capital’s best viewing spaces

From the publishers of 47

Arts

performing arts

angkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but nevertheless if you look under the surface you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t as many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds in what may at times seems like a desert. And everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. Thais love to enjoy themselves and are always up for a good show, whether it originates from Thailand’s deep and rich history, or a touring artist or production stopping off at the City of Angels. You’ll be amazed by the masked Khon performances, enchanted by the elegant traditional Ram Thai dances, and captivated by world class symphonies. The capital’s many foreign cultural centres, like the Goethe Institut and Alliance Française, and local associations, like the Bangkok Music Society and the Bangkok Community Theatre, ensure that the stages around town remain booked with top-notch entertainment. And this month, the Bangkok Fringe Festival brings the very best of the world’s performance artists for one spectacular event (see calendar p.15). For more information on what’s happening right now, visit some of these sites for event information. www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com, www.bangkokconcerts.com

Theatres JOE LOUIS PUPPET THEATER (map C4) Suan Lum Night Bazaar, 1875, Rama IV Rd | 02-252-9683~4 | daily 7:30pm | adults B300, children B200, VIP B500 | www.joelouis-theater.com A live puppet show might sound aimed at kids, but this one is intriguing for all. The one-hour show follows the ancient Ramayana, the classic Hindu epic and Asian legend. The large puppets are incredibly life-like; the scenes are colourful and fun to watch – so even adults enjoy the show. Winner of ‘Best Traditional Performance’ at the World Festival of Puppet Art 2006. Arrive early to observe the production of traditional masks.

but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแหงชาติ ถ. ราชินี สนามหลวง

โรงละครหุนโจ หลุยส ถนนพระราม 4 สวนลุมไนท บาซาร

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the only places in Bangkok you’re likely to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are worldclass. The theatre is also home to the annual Bangkok Fringe Festival. (see calendar p.15)

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241342, 02-225-8457~8, 02-222-1352 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May,

SIAM NIRAMIT(map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Over 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history: religious festivals cultural heritage using hundreds of

โรงละครภัทราวี ซอยวัดระฆัง ถ. อรุณอมรินทร ศิริราช

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costumes and amazing special effects. Up to 2,000 guests nightly experience this spectacle; eye-popping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ. เทียมรวมมิตร

THAI CHALERM KRUNG ROYAL THEATRE (map A3) 66 Charoen Krung Rd, Phra Nakhon | 02-222-1854, 02-222-0434 | 02225-8757 This landmark was originally built as a cinema and later transformed into a well-equipped palace. A wide variety of per formances – Khon masked dances, period dramas, movies – are often enhanced by dramatic special effects like lasers and multi-vision systems.

โรงละครเฉลิมกรุง ถ. เจริญกรุง

THAILAND CULTURAL CENTER (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Huay Kwang | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02247-0028 ext 4103~4, 4119 | www.thaiculturalcenter.com This f igur ehead cultur al centr e continuously hosts an eclectic range of music, dr ama and dance per formances from Thailand and around the globe.

ศูนยวัฒนธรรมแหงประเทศไทย ถ. รัชดาภิเษก หวยขวาง

bangkok 101

Foreign Cultural Centres

Some of the most active participants on the Bangkok cultural scene are the city’s foreign cultural centres. Both conventional and experimental art events, exhibitions and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more take place regularly and showcase both foreign and Thai artists. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on. See listings below. ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE (map C4) 29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02670-4200 | Mon-Sat 10am-6pm | www. alliancefrancaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศส กรุงเทพ 29 ถ .สาทร

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3) 254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคานซิล สยามแสควร

GOETHE INSTITUT (map C4) 18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-287-0942~4 ext.22 | daily 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ 18/1 ซ. โกเธ สาทร ซ. 1

JAPAN FOUNDATION (map D3) Serm-mit Tower, Fl 10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-2608560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am5pm | www.jfbkk.co.th

เจแปน ฟาวนเดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิต สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ BANGKOK COMMUNITY THEATRE (BCT) 02-234-0247, www.bct-th.org ■ BANGKOK MUSIC SOCIETY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ BANGKOK SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphonyorchestra.org

Ram Thai (Thai Traditional Dance) Traditional Thai theatre and dance take many forms. The most accessible to tourists is khon, which depicts scenes from the classic Hindu epic, the Ramayana, in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed most commonly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (see p. 31), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (see p.28), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is “ligay”, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theater (see p.58) at the Suan Lum Night Bazaar. It also borrows heavily from the Ramayana (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre (see p.58) across the river and at the Thailand Cultural Center (see p.58). bangkok 101

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Cabarets

MAMBO (map D4) Washington Square, Sukhumvit Rd near Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-2595128 | daily 8:30pm & 10pm | B800 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ วอชิงตันแสควร ถ. สุขุมวิท

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,000 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ โรงแรมเอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Arts

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, stateof-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido, screen less common independent and international films. Foreign films are mostly screened in their native languages with subtitles in Thai. For artsy fare, check out the regular screenings at culture centres like the Alliance Française, Goethe Institut and Japan Foundation – most movies are shown with English subtitles. Seats are reasonably priced at Please around B100-180. The best place to check screening stand quietly times is on the daily-updated www.movieseer.com, while the national which just about every Bangkokian uses before going anthem is played to the movies. in respect to thailand’s king. Thai Cinema Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

These Screens are Gold

You enter the dimly lit room, chiffon drapes sway against the wall as the cool air flows against your skin. Settling into the velvet sofa, complimentary drinks are whisked in front of you. Soon you are led to a separate area. Dark and hard to navigate, you are guided to your seat in this chilly chamber. Reclining back, a blanket is pulled over your body, covering you up for whatever thrills that may ensue. By now it’s more than obvious where you’ve been lured..... To the movies of course!! In Thailand you can fly in cinematic first class, which is possible for roughly the same price as your old neighbourhood theatre back home. All of the above, including seat-side waiter service, is available for around B300, although Paragon charges at least double.

Where’s the gold?

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APEX Lido, Siam and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd l BTS Siam l Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02-251-2861, Siam 02-251-3580

โรงภาพยนตลโิ ด สยาม และสกาลา สยามสแควร ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Grand (Gold Class) Siam Discovery Center, Rama 1 Rd l BTS Siam l 02-812-9999

สยามดิสคัฟเวอรรเ่ี ซ็นเตอร ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Metropolis (Gold Class) Big-C Ratchadamri (opp. Central World Plaza), Ratchadamri Rd l BTS Chitlom l 02-812-9999

บิก๊ ซี ราชดำริ ตรงขามเซ็นทรัล เวิลดพลาซา ถ. ราชดำริ

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd l 02-641-5177

เฮาส อารซเี อ ถ. พระรามเกา

MAJOR CINEPLEX Central World Plaza 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd l BTS Chitlom l 02511-5555

เซ็นทรัลเวิลดพลาซา ถ. ราชดำริ

Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd l BTS Siam l 02-129-4631

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd l BTS Siam l 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd l BTS National Stadium l 02-611-6444

มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร ถ. พญาไท

SF CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 l BTS Phrom Phong l 02-260-9333

เอ็มโพเรียม สุขมุ วิท 24

SF WORLD CINEMA 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd l BTS Chit Lom l 02-268-8888

เซ็นทรัลเวิลดพลาซา ถ. ราชดำริ

bangkok 101

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent book shops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, Central World or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 100) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used. ExPLoRinG PhUKEt & Phi Phi By Oliver Hargreave | Within Books | B850 | 248 pp With Lonely Planet and others now kowtowing to a trendy, less culturally-aware demographic, the future of in-depth guidebooks looks grim. But at least there’s a new and enlightened option available for Thailand’s Andaman Coast. Wellknown for his popular Exploring Chiang Mai guide, Hargreave’s painstakinglyresearched and factoid-laced new book is not only fodder for your agenda, but food for the mind, with sensitive commentary about responsible tourism and plenty of fascinating cultural insight. For those only interested in baking and boozing, the comprehensive tome might be overkill, but for those looking to take away a lasting experience, this is by far the best option. Nevertheless, even the resolutely shallow will enjoy the great photography and should pick up some useful trivia to try out later on at the pub.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai ﬁlm. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong or CD Warehouse outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English subtitles and DVD region compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkﬁlm.com or www.yesasia.com.

bangkok 101

BUDDhA in LAnDthE L SCAPE: A SACRED ExPRESSion oF thAiLAnD By Mark Standen & John Hoskin | Bangkok Books | B1,695 | 277pp Buddhism predates both Christianity and Islam, and its prevalence in Thailand – the world’s most predominantly Buddhist country – even outdates the kingdom by over a thousand years. Notable as a religion that serves more as a philosophy of personal responsibility than supernatural dogma, any doubts that Buddhism remains the principal formative inﬂuence on Thai culture are dispelled by the fact that, on average, 170 new temples per year have been built here since the 1980s. This weighty tome pays photographic tribute to the thousands of Buddha images scattered liberally throughout Thai topography. Punctuated with insightful analysis into the history and regional diversity of Thai Buddha images, Standen’s and Hoskin’s efforts are both informative and beautiful to look at.

reading & screening

BAnGKoK BLonDES The Bangkok Women’s Writer’s Group | Bangkok Books | B395 | 234pp If the debut publication from the Bangkok Women’s Writer’s Group often reads like an exercise book from creativewriting class, that’s because it is, more or less. Cynics who take Norman Mailer’s line to heart (the literary macho man infamously dismissed his leading female contemporaries as “fey, old hat, quaintsy and dykily psychotic”) will find grist for their misogynistic mills in some amateurish entries more suited to a secret diary. But persevere for some surprising takes on a broad range of topics, including a resonant, though somewhat browbeaten, entry on why foreign men might wander off with local women, written by the sole Thai contributor. An intermittently entertaining mixed bag and welcome new alternative to that enduring genre of sexpat fiction penned exclusively by men.

Syndromes and a Century Apichatpong Weerasethakul | 2006 | $19.99 Apichatpong Weerasethakul is beloved among international cineastes and relatively unknown in his own country – a situation that seems unlikely to change, considering what has befallen his latest film. Syndromes became Thailand’s anti-censorship poster child after Weerasethakul refused to make four ministrymandated cuts in his film. As a result, Syndromes has remained undistributed in Thailand, and feted outside the country. As with his previous films, Syndromes is dreamily non-narrative, and in thrall to the elusive undertow of memory. Like Blissfully Yours and Tropical Malady, the film is bifurcated – one half set in a country idyll, the other in a stark modern hospital, each section focused on the elliptical conversations between the hospital staff and their patients, one of whom is an elderly monk who dreams of angry chickens. Floating between absurdist humour, whispers of dread, and the borderline between imagination and memory, Syndromes is a perfect tone poem, all the more lovely for its strangeness. ar ts

Siam

Squared T

he inspiration for this series came from work done by Patrick Gauvain for Seven Days in the Kingdom in 1987. He took a plain backdrop up to the Golden Triangle and shot the people of the area. It gave a very refreshing change of pace to the entire book. While you could not reproduce that project today, given that the people have become less colourful and diverse as prosperity has reached into the countryside, I went to Siam Square with a plain backdrop of my own to capture similar scenes of diversity in local life, but from an urban perspective. I spent a few hours watching people in Siam Square and realised that in the majority of cases there is some visual connection between any two people walking together, regardless of their relationship. It was also much easier for my seven scouts to persuade pairs to walk with them to the car park of The Siam Centre. I shot 196 pairs in total, hoping to find an interesting urban counterpoint to Gauvainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s images of the Golden Triangle. Where 20 years ago more people would have been wearing simply jeans and tee shirts, today there is an increased diversity in the city that is all the more prominent given the decline of diversity in rural areas.

Robert McLeod

PhotoFeature

Siam

Squared

PhotoFeature

Siam

Squared

PhotoFeature

Siam

Squared

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Siam

Squared

The pictures here come from the Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom project, which was organized by Singapore publisher Editions Didier Millet (EDM). For nine days, between January 14 and January 22, 2007, 55 of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest photographic minds from 18 nations gathered in Thailand.Their mission was to create a visual time capsule of this great kingdom to mark the 80th birthday of His Majesty the King. Across the country, hundreds of priceless moments were snapped up and immortalized on celluloid, featuring Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s people and wildlife, landscapes and cityscapes, smiles and struggles. The work has been presented in a stunning, large-format, coffee-table book called Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom filled with Thailand from every possible angle. The 304-page book, with no less than 425 photographs from the project, includes a free DVD with two behind-thescenes documentaries, and is on sale at B2S, Kinokuniya and Asia Books for B1,750. It is a rare opportunity and a must-have for anyone fascinated by Thailand. www.9days-inthekingdom.com www.edmbooks.com

PhotoFeature

Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok

Rossini’s

ood is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”.This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby.The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community. Koi

THE ADDED VALUE

Red

A taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms! Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites. If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anythingonce daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey. Aubergine

$ under B600 $$ B600 - B1,000 $$$ B1,000 - B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000

One of Asia’s great dining bargains, Bangkok has an incredible range of culinary venues and food offerings to suit any budget.You can stuff yourself with local delicacies at hawker stalls on the street for less than B35 (US$1) a plate, or treat yourself at one of Bangkok’s finest eateries for around the price of a gastropub meal in London. With each of the following restaurant listings we present an approximate scale (see box above) of the per-person cost for a three-course meal (starter, main dish and dessert), not including drinks. Most restaurants charge 7% government tax (VAT) plus a 10% service charge.Additional tipping is the diner’s prerogative but is not expected. Credit cards are widely accepted, unless otherwise noted.

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at air-conditioned restaurants citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are licensed pubs serving food, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 62

food & drinks

bangkok 101

Food&Drinks

thai cuisine

DID YOU KNOW?

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of ﬂavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) inﬂuences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by a myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients. The preindustrial custom of wrapping foods in Eating is a natur al mater ials communal persists today; labourand intensive desserts or savoury mousses are social affair in Thailand. wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are choppped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared. 64

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are inﬂuenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

Mu Sa-Te (Pork/Chicken Skewers)

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom Yam Goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom Kha Gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad Thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/Gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som Tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam Nua.......spicy beef salad Gai Yarng..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng Phet Pet Yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng Khiao Wan Gai.....green curry chicken Phad Kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sweet basil Gai Phad Met Mamuang Himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam Ma Prao.......................coconut juice Nam Krajeab .............rosella ﬂower juice Nam Matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam Ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam Tao Hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha Yen............................Thai iced tea with condensed milk bangkok 101

thai sweets Kanom Thai

‘Polamai’: Thai Fruits

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

February is best for: Jackfruit (Kanoon) A large fruit, reminiscent of the durian, though less spiky and stinky. As it ripens it gets increasingly sweeter. A versatile fruit it is used as a topping or ingredient in many desserts as well as savoury dishes like curries. Also, every part of the jackfruit can be consumed from the skin down to its seeds.The fruit known as kanoon in Thai is in season from now until May and Chonburi, Nakhon Ratchasima, and Uttaradit provinces are famous for this produce.

The word Kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a Kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reﬂection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This! Kanom Tokyo – Commonly found on the streets in front of schools, it is a sort of miniature pancake, pikelet if you will, rolled up with a filling. Although it can be had with a custard filling, common choices include sausage or a quail egg. Kanom Bueng – Crispy crêpes with coconut whip filling Kanom Krok – Mini coconut cream hotcakes Kanom Chun – Layered pandan jelly Thong yip/Thong yod/Foi thong – Golden Egg Pinches (Yip)/Drops (Yod)/ Shreds (Foi) Kanom Tokyo

Try also: Watermelon (Taeng-Mo), Coconut (Ma-Praow), Pomelo (Som O), Guava (Farang), Banana (Kluay), Papaya (Malakor), Mangosteen (Mong-Koot), Durian (Tu-Rian), Mango (Ma Muang), Rambutan (Ngoh), Lychee (Lyn-Chee)

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

SUKHUMVIT SOI 38 Directly beneath the Thong Lo BTS station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to Bangkok’s revellers. Sample the delicate, handmade egg noodles, or Hong Kong Noodles; and never head home without trying the Sticky Rice with Mango. SURAWONG A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near the Patpong Night Market. In front of the Wall Street Building; be sure to try the Stewed Chicken Noodles in Herbal Soup. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am.

ood is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. The city is famed for its scrumptious street food. Bangkokians eat out day and night, and locals know exactly what to get and where. On every street you’ll spot mobile vendors; some open for lunch only, others open all night. You’ll often find clusters of vendors in one place, selling all kinds of rice and noodle dishes. You can always eat out in restaurants, but don’t miss some of the wonderful street specialities.

PRATUNAM Midnight Chicken Rice! There are two shops at the intersection; the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the Pork Satay with Peanut Sauce. CHINATOWN Shops fill the streets after dark. There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious Egg Noodles with Barbecued Pork. For dessert, try fantastic Black Sesame Seed Dumplings in Ginger Soup next door.

Khanom Jeep

The best way to go to Chinatown is by express boat. Once you get off at Ratchawong Pier, keep your mind and eyes open. At the corner of Songwad Road there is a stunning old building you can’t take your eyes off of and in its shadow sits a steaming brass pot on a wheeling cart bearing what look ordinary pork dumplings, but which are actually a legendary snack Thais call Khanom Jeep. The taste is unlike anything else you’ll find on the street. AaLiang (aka “Uncle Liang”) has his own way to orchestrate the harmony of tastes inside each morsel. His recipe renders texture and taste excitingly smooth, to create a Khanom Jeep that is perfectly al dente.. He mixes chopped yam-bean with minced pork instead of pork fat, in Chinese Tew Jew style. Egg and spring onion are then added, topped with deep fried garlic and sour Chinese sauce to create a rich, but not oily, treat. In a novel twist, Uncle Liang’s Khanom Jeep is served in dried banana leaf bowls and take-aways are wrapped in big fresh banana leaves which keep moisture locked in for the ride home. Khanom Jeep Aa- Liang is at the corner of Ratchawong & Songwad Road, and serves up these heavenly treats from 2pm until midnight. 66

food & drinks

Food Courts

Nearly all Bangkok department stores and malls dedicate ample space to food courts, culinary havens where you’ll find all the best local street food and more in air-conditioned surroundings. They are super-clean cheap, and many stands display pictures of the dishes – food courts make for the perfect initiation to Thai street food. Pick and choose – it will be tallied up as you go; you pay as you leave. Among our faves, try Central Chitlom, Central World, Siam Paragon, Emporium and MBK (see p. 100).

eat like

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restauratns, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

bangkok 101

Restaurant

Bar & Terrace

Open Lunch and Dinner

French Cuisine

Situated in a beautiful private house in Sala Daeng, Soi 1/1, (5 minutes walk from the BTS station, Sala Daeng and the MRT station, Silom). Parking available. A cozy, relaxed restaurant serving traditional French food, with wine cellar, cocktail bar and outside terrace. VIP dining facilities.

Set Lunch: available Mon-Fri 2-3 courses Degustation Set: dinner 7 courses 71/1 Sala Daeng Road Soi 1/1, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 For more information please call: 02 2342226 www.aubergine.in.th email: aubergine_j@hotmail.com The restaurant is open daily: Mon-Fri Lunch 11.30 - 14.30, Dinner 18.00 - 23.00 Sat-Sun Lunch 12.00 - 15.00, Dinner 18.00 - 23.00

Food&Drinks

restaurants THAI ANA GARDEN (map E4) 67 Thong Lo 3 | BTS Thong Lo | 02391-1762 | www.anagarden.com | daily 5pm–midnight | $ A Secret Garden-esque hideaway in the middle of Thong Lo. Huge tropical trees hover over rustic wooden tables as vines crawl across the walls and a fountain gurgles in the centre of the restaurant. The idyllic atmosphere is accompanied by downtempo music and a hushed vibe as the trees cast their shade over everything. It can appear quite dimly lit as a result, but then that’s exactly why Ana Garden escapes the trappings of all those other hip eateries where it’s so important to see and be seen.The ThaiIsaan fare is simple yet succulent.Try the barbecued fish or the grilled chicken. For a hip after-dinner drink, check out Groove Kitchen, the nightclub at the rear of the restaurant. Overall, a refuge of relaxation and a world away from the urban tumult.

แอนนา การเดนท ซ.ทองหลอ ถ.สุขุมวิท 55

Ana Garden

CABBAGES & CONDOMS (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 12 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-229-4610 | 11am10pm | $ Cabbages & Condoms is a bit like a pleasingly off-kilter Disneyland – fairy lights, traditional musicians, and an explosion of condoms. Condom lampshades, condom sculptures, condom wall-hangings are all part of the restaurant founder’s campaign to make the prophylactics as common and shame-free as cabbages. The restaurant helps fund Thai senator Meechai Viravidaiya’s whirlingly imaginative approaches to health and development issues - silk weavers from one of the senator’s projects display their craft at their looms, brown-rice crackers from another initiative appear on the table. If only the food were similarly inventive. Although fresh and served in hefty, affordable portions, the cuisine is somewhat deracinated, lacking Thai food’s customary kick and sass. Still, it’s dining for a good cause, a fun environment for a large party, and an adept kitchen for those with dietary restrictions - bring friends who are just wading into Thai food.

RUEN MALLIKA (map D4) 189 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-663-3211 | www.ruenmallika.com | daily 11am11:00pm | $$ Somebody must be doing it right when a Thai eatery is filled with local diners, where foreigners are the exception. This Bangkok classic, in an enchanting 19thcentury teak house, is known citywide for one dish: fried edible flowers. The colourful arrangement, once it’s on your table, is almost too beautiful to eat but it’s a unique delicacy, not to be missed. The huge picture-menu introduces you to royal Thai food, which translates into high-quality, healthy cooking, with vegetables that are grown in the restaurant’s own garden. Do yourself a flavour [sic] and ask the friendly staff about your chosen dishes’ spiciness; otherwise you’ll be trying to cool your mouth with heaps of rice.

LE LYS (map C4) 104 Narathiwat Soi 7, Sathorn Road | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-287-1898-9 | daily noon-10:30pm | $ Tucked inside a quiet side street just off busy Sathorn Road, Le Lys is a true insider’s secret. For locals in the know, it’s long been a Bangkok mainstay for Thai comfort cuisine. For visitors, it’s one place not to miss. Look beyond the charming garden to the eclectic interior: the Thai-French owners lovingly stuffed the place with posters, knick-knacks and unique lamps. Pan-Euro chansons are recognised by the patrons that keep returning here so often they could call it their second home. The inexpensive Thai food tastes like it’s been made with love, and you’ll find superior dishes that you won’t find everywhere else. Ricard-sipping cliques gather here for

WYNDHAM THAI (map D4) Somerset Lake Pt | 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16 BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-258-1783 | daily 11am-10:30pm | www.wyndhamthai.com | $$ Somebody sure loves strong colours, both in his place and on his plates. A sharp Thai guy takes all he learned cooking in some of Sydney’s top kitchens to Hong Kong, where his restaurant becomes a hit. He then returns to Bangkok, bringing home with him this gastronomic gem. Chef Rom’s talents show in his daring, intensely flavoured Thai creations presented as nouvelle cuisine. The food is innovative, but pays respect to its roots: green papaya salad and scallops come in succulent crêpes; super-tender baby back ribs arrive in tamarind sauce. Recent discoveries include delicate soft shell crab rolls

แคบเบจส แอนด คอนดอม สุขุมวิท ซ. 12

food & drinks

some rounds of pétanque after work and on weekends, and the owners will hand out those cheek-y kisses after your second visit. What’s more, it’s been mentioned in Wallpaper magazine. Enough said!

เลอ ลิซ นราธิวาส ซอย 7

เรือนมัลลิกา สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

bangkok 101

Chinese New Year’s menus Sukhothai • Feb, 10 from noon until 4pm: Grand Brunch (B1,999++ pp) @ Colonnade. 02-344-8725 • Feb, 5-10: Seafood set menu (B2,999++ pp) @ Celadon. 02-3448888 ext. 5720

Cabbages & Condoms

and, from the main dishes, a baked barramundi fillet divinely presented in a chilli, lemongrass and coconut sauce. Portions are generous, prices fair, desserts divine (think coconut crème brûlée or poached pear stuffed with lemon grass ice cream). Wyndham Thai is a destination in itself. Trendy without trying too hard, it gives you copper lotus flower lights, earthtoned walls, and a stunning royal barge figurehead. The lounge bar, with its red leather couches, is right out of a boutique hotel. Instead of the usual pling-pling sounds you get downbeat, unobtrusive music. If Rom opened in a place like New York or London, we fear we’d never get a table.

InterContinental

InterContinental Bangkok Feb, 6-14: five different Chinese New Year set menus served at both lunch and dinner starting from B4,888++ to B22,888++ per table (6 to 10 persons) @ The Summer Palace. Restaurant Concierge. 02-656-0360

วินดัมไทย โซเมอรเซท เลคพอยท สุขุมวิท ซ. 16

bangkok 101

Nai Lert Park Bangkok • Throughout Feb: Chinese New Year Set Menus for 10 persons (menu A: B10,900++; menu B: B12,900++) @ Noble House Chinese Restaurant. • Feb, 7: The Chinese Brunch (B1,500++/adult and B750++/child) @ Noble House. Reservation. 02-253-0123 ext.8056

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

chic bangkok

BARSU

Cheryl Tseng

BEST FOR Tapas, Wapas & Bar WHERE Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Asok, 02-6498358, www.barsubangkok.com

arsu opens up an euphoria of innovative titbits to enjoy with the fantastic drinks. It has a circular and glowing colour bar where it’s fun to mingle, while DJ spins conversation-friendly decibel soul, funk, rock, and chill-out tunes. To draw back, there are the cozy enclaves ideal for checking out the scene. To discover the cuisine that induces communal pleasure, you tick on a sheet filtered with Western, Middle-Eastern and Asian-tinged delectable small bites, meticulously created by Michelin-starred Chef Yves Mattagne. Think tartar of oyster and sea bass, tuna and prawns, herb-marinated raw salmon, lamb seekh kebab, and seared duck liver on tuna maki. The more you indulge, the more you will appreciate the fine nuances that appear on the small plates to seduce the senses. Meanwhile, the friendly and fashionably dressed waitresses, glide through the room effortlessly to bring you irresistible signature cocktails such as Barsu oyster martini and Aphrodisiac, or a pour from the bar’s extensive labels from around the globe. Chic Restaurants & Bars Bangkok is a compact food and style lover’s bible showcasing Bangkok’s most fabulous venues for dining and drinking. Global gourmand Cheryl Tseng leads you to the capital’s finest food, and its most striking décor. Each month we take a sneak peek inside, and share a taste here. A definite must-have for travelling foodies, get yourself a copy of the new 3rd edition at local book shops, or visit www.chicasia.com.

food & drinks

bangkok 101

featured

Buffet Venues ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai | 02-344-8725 | Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | lunch B920++ dinner B750++ ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-2541234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B750++, dinner MonThu B1,099++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ ORCHID CAFÉ Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 | Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, Mon-Thu 6:30pm-10:30pm & Fri-Sun 6:30pm-10:30pm | lunch B720++, dinner Mon-Thu B990++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,150++ (seafood) ■ MISTRAL (MEDITERRANEAN) Soﬁtel Silom | 02-238-1991 ext. 1321| Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm & 6pm-10:30pm | Lunch B598++ (Mon-Sat) & B798++ (Special Sun), Dinner B698++ ■ ESPRESSO Intercontinental Bangkok, Mezzanine level | 02-656-0444 | Mon-Sat 12pm–2:30pm & 6pm–10:30pm, Sun 12pm–3pm | Lunch B790++, Dinner B 990++ (Mon-Thu), B1,190++ (Fri-Sat Seafood Buffet), Sun brunch B1,290++ ■ NO.43 ITALIAN BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment | 02-658-7444 ext: 285 | daily 11am-1:30pm | B300net ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom | 02-238-4300 | daily 12pm-2:30pm and 6pm10:30pm | B550++ (lunch) B600++ (dinner) ■ INAHO 57/32-33 Ploenchit Rd | BTS Ploenchit | 02-252-8638 | daily 11am-2pm & 5pm-10pm | Lunch B269net, Dinner B300net

buffet THAILAND TONIGHT

Good food by the river. It’s a winning combination. The Royal Orchid Sheraton’s dinner show is laid-back and relaxed, with rustic open-air Sala surroundings serving up some excellent all-you-can-eat Thai cuisine, featuring market-style buffet lines and cooking stations accompanied by nightlong live traditional Thai entertainment. The bustling backdrop is always in motion with a mind-bogglingly remarkable number of ferries and neon cruises forming a non-stop single-ﬁ le nautical parade in the corner of your eye. Live kitchens include a noodle station, som tum and yums, and a BBQ stocked with satay skewers, lamb, and seafood, though some items are left to stand too long. Not a problem suffered by the rock lobsters of course, as these crustaceans are instantly snapped up by pouncing diners. Though the name may sound like a current-affairs news programme, the only scandalous headline for you to investigate here is what in the world do they put in those woktossed noodles that make them so darn tasty. Dinner and show is B1,354 net per person. ไทยแลนดทไู นท โรงแรม รอยัล ออคิด เชอราตัน เจริญกรุง ซ. 30

all you can eat

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of five-star hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-tillyou-burst buffets. WHERE Royal Orchid Sheraton, 2 Charoen Krung Soi 30 BTS Saphan Taksin (free ferries), 02-266-0123 PRICE $$$

For full address, see hotel listings p.107 bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

INTERNATIONAL BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | daily 7:30-11pm | $$$ Bed is one of two mega-night clubs in town that keeps pulling in fashionable crowds. Some of them are so ‘beddicted’ partying here alone doesn’t provide the necessary fix. But like a generous pusher, Bed gives them what they need, and lets them in early. There they lounge, in the all-white framing, on snug sofas, compiling their three-course-menu, checking out the competition streaming in. True fanatics know which sofas offer the best vista. Luckily, some of them care about the food - which is somehow always an imaginative feast, all fresh, fusion and tantalizing. Come 11pm, many in the the flock move to the club side. One hurdle you must pass before entering Bangkok’s adult playground: the tight security checks at Bed’s doors will have you think you’re entering a war zone. Even if you’re coming for dinner only, don’t forget to bring a photo ID.

เบด ซัปเปอรคลับ สุขมุ วิท 11

LE CAFÉ SIAM (map D3) 4 Soi Sri Aksorn | Chua Ploeng Rd, Sathorn | MRT Khlong Toei | 02-6116499 | www.lecafesiam.com | $$ Bad things first: this place is a drag to find. To get there, print out the map from their website and write down the telephone number. Even experienced taxi drivers get lost in this maze of streets. But once you reach it, an impossibly atmospheric old house awaits you, surrounded by a tropical garden. It’s pure romance with a dash of extravagance. You’ll definitely choose to dine in the garden but have a look upstairs where the comfy colonial bar beckons. Should anything (except the friendly, competent staff) catch your eye, know that everything here is on sale. Two menus can cause fits of schizophrenia: one offers perfect Southern Thai specialities, the other high-standard, delectable – and well-priced – Mediterranean dishes 72

food & drinks

infused with the freshest flavours. An international mixture of diners can never resist the perfect desserts. Leave your watch at home – in this magical place, times flies.

เลอคาเฟ สยาม ซอยศรีอกั ษร ถนนเชือ้ เพลิง พระราม 4

FRENCH LENÔTRE (map E4) Penny’s Balcony, 522/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lo) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-3820063 | 9am-midnight | $$ What do you do when you have a winning recipe? You strike while the skillet is hot and conquer the culinary world. That is exactly what Lenôtre, named after its legendary founder Gaston Lenôtre, has done since coming to Bangkok. In the space of just a few years, the renowned French brand has become a byword on Bangkok’s highend food scene. The latest addition to its Bangkok portfolio is the casually elegant Lenôtre Thonglor at Penny’s Balcony. A symphony of to-die-for cakes and pastries greets customers as soon as they pass the clever sliding doors, ideal for a leisurely cuppa and cake as you people-watch.Their openair balcony is fast catching on with the trendy Thonglor set. The menu will not disappoint. Stand-outs include the avocado crabmeat tartar with curry and orange dressing, pan-fried French duck foie gras with tropical fruit chutney and roasted king fish. Be prepared to roll home after scoffing the chocolate soufflé or mint crème brulée palet. Prices easy on the pocketbook.

เลอโนท เพนนีส บัลโคนี ซ. ทองหลอ

ITALIAN FUZIO (map E4) 6 Fl., Mini Square, Ekkamai Soi 7 | 02-711-6999 | www.fuzio.co.th | daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm With Italian supposedly the favoured European fare among Thais, Fuzio has entered a crowded marketplace – although by winning the “Cold Plate Challenge: Chefs’ Contest for the Best Antipasto”, organised by the Italian Chamber of Commerce, it has proven bangkok 101

credentials. Located above the MINI showroom, this rooftop restaurant presents guests with a decently sized, tastefully attired dining room; slatted window shutters, vintage brown leather furniture, a cocktail bar inlaid with mother of pearl, and exposed ceiling vents create a pleasant semiformal atmosphere. For something different, try the pan-fried Tasmanian Wagyu lamb with Marsala wine and porcini mushroom sauce. This was the first time this reviewer has been aware of Wagyu anything-other-thanbeef – the designation normally being reserved for pampered Japanese calves predisposed to intense marbling. Cattle anomalies aside, Fuzio lives up to its motto: Stylish Italian Cuisine.

ฟูซิโอ มินิสแควร เอกมัย ซ. 7

featured

restaurant

JAPANESE DRINKING TEA EATING RICE (map C3) Conrad Hotel | Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploenchit | 02-690-9999 | www. conradbangkok.com | daily11:30am-2pm & 6pm-11pm | $$$ Authentic Japanese cuisine is a world in itself, sometimes mysterious, often dazzling, always delicious. There are people that have to work up courage to go for other things than sushi and sashimi. This hotel restaurant caters equally to novices and experts of Japanese food. Some Japanese residents go as far as naming it Bangkok’s best Japanese restaurant. Choose from squirming fresh raw fish or delicate, beer-fed Matsutaka beef, or just leave it up to the Osakan chef’s brilliant kaiseki set courses from the sushi bar or teppan-yaki grill. The interior reflects the justifiably high-priced food: it’s simple but refined, clear-structured and luxurious. Groups should consider booking the smart private rooms with sunken tables.

รร. คอนราด ถ. วิทยุ

BACCO Bangkok is packed with Italian restaurants that fall at the extremes of the atmosphere spectrum – homey pizzeria or haute establishment. Bacco is a welcome addition to the middle ground, a casual place that serves up handsome, hearty fare. Raising the rustic osteria concept up a good notch, the enormous restaurant is very family-friendly, while glossy power couples have made themselves just as comfortable as groups of relatives. The menu is just as huge as the space, but Bacco does an unusually good job of ensuring consistent quality over its sprawling range of options – think wood-ﬁred pizzas, handmade pastas, grilled entrees... Some of our favourites include the spinach cassoni – a tender piada ﬂatbread stuffed with cheese and greens and grilled – and the appetizer sampler, which offers a lobe of foie gras, a pretty rocket salad in a Parmesan tuile, and other delights. Pasta and risotto can occasionally suffer from inconsistent cooking, but the kitchen more than makes up for it with a feather-light gnocchi in pesto, the perfect Italian comfort food. Pizzas emerge smoky and thin-crusted – opt for a lightly dressed pie rather than a topping avalanche that would overwhelm the WHERE 35/1 Sukhumvit crust. Wonderfully fresh ingredients, excellent Soi 53 (map E4) | BTS service, and reasonable prices – Bacco’s a Thong Lo | 02-662-4538 | great new neighbourhood spot. WHEN daily 11am-2pm & แบคโก สุขุมวิท ซ. 53 5pm-midnight | PRICE $$$ bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

AMERICAN

SPANISH

ROADHOUSE BBQ (map B3) 942/1 Surawong Rd | BTS Saladaeng, MRT Silom | 02-236-8010 | www.roadhousebarbecue.com | daily 11am-2am | $$ Where there’s smoke, there’s fire. And spewing out from this downhome, honky-tonk rib joint are the sweet aromas of genuine, chop-lickin’ bliss. Hunkered down at the intersection of Surawong and Rama IV Roads, Roadhouse is a carnivores’ pleasure dome. A bustling street level bar/restaurant offers up live music, while a quieter non-smoking dining room is one flight up. A sports bar on the third floor boasts a professional billiards table, a full-length shuffle board, foosball tables and wide-screen TVs.The open-kitchen and its US-made smokers churn out perfectly done ribs, buffalo wings, beef brisket and hickorysmoked chicken. The award-winning beanless Roadhouse Chili – a must-try – features tender steak; grill fans may be partial to the Philly Cheese Steak sandwich or burgers. Save room for a succulent slice of Key Lime pie or their deep-fried vanilla ice cream.

TAPAS CAFÉ (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-2947 | www.tapasiarestaurants. com | daily noon-11pm | cash only | $ Come early or on an off-day to beat the crush. Set in a cute loft space with rotating art exhibitions, Tapas Café fills that desire for drinks and a chatty nosh with flair.The charming executive chef rotates his menu every few days, but here are a few plates we hope will stay – a gorgeously moist “tortilla,” the classic potato-and-onion omelette; ham croquetas so delicate it’s a miracle they stay together; savoury little slices of Angus beef; and tender octopus that will banish the memory of nightmare rubber tentacles. Delicious sangria will get you drunk in minutes – luckily, the food isn’t so salty, often the case with traditional tapas, that you wind up quaffing too much. Keep an eye out for paella and more fusion-y innovations.

ทาปาส คาเฟ สุขุมวิท ซ.11

โรดเฮาส บาบิคิว ถ.สุรวงค

dim-sum featured

MONKEYS CHINOIS

Though Chinese restaurants aren’t known for their hip and modern décor, Monkeys attempts to shake this stigma, with funky lanterns, and faux glass waterfalls. Though the wait staff looked bored, a nod must be given to the chef ’s creative oomph, with tasty dishes like the Shark’s Fin Siu Mai, and crunchy Mango Spring Rolls. A highly promoted and incredibly striking item is the Rainbow Dim Sum selection. A curious concoction to say the least, they taste like your usual har-gows (dumplings), only shaped and coloured WHERE Thonglor Soi 11 like the cast of “Finding Nemo,” which (map E4) BTS Thonglor, might amuse some children, but we 02-712-7223, dim sum daily found it a wee bit creepy. 11am-2pm PRICE $ มังกี้ส ชีนัวส ทองหลอ ซ. 11 74

food & drinks

Tapas Café

Roadhouse BBQ

VEGETARIAN ANOTAI (map D3) 976/17 Soi Praram 9 Hospital, Huay Kwang | 02-641-5366 | Thurs-Tue 10am-9.30pm | no credit cards | $ Ask any Bangkokian to suggest a good vegetarian restaurant, and he’ll invariably name this tiny place in the otherwise uninteresting northeastern part of town. Once you muster the courage to venture out that far you’ll be surprised to find Anotai’s handful of tables occupied by happy Thai customers and the odd foreigner in the know. They all feast on the innovative dishes created by the owner who grows her veggies on the family farm. The intense flavours of pan-Asian dishes make up for the unpretentious but warm interior. You must leave space for the delicious desserts, and have the friendly staff doggie-bag some of the many cookies on display. Once the bill arrives, you’ll know the advantage of dining in the burbs.

อโนทัย ซ.โรงพยาบาลพระราม 9 หวยขวาง

bangkok 101

MEXICAN COYOTE (map C4) 1/2 Convent Rd Silom | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-631-2325 | www.coyoteonconvent.com | daily 11am-1am | $$ If there’s one cuisine that’s hard to find in Asia it has to be Mexican. So a big Bangkok welcome to Coyote, the latest arrival on Convent Road (one of the city’s premier dining streets). With its talented American chef, classic Tex-Mex menu and lively, margarita-fuelled atmosphere, Coyote is a place to party as well as to sample south-of-the-border cooking. Among a traditional starter line-up, the crab taquitos are a definite stand-out. For a main course choose one of the platters – tacos, burritos, enchiladas, chimichangas and fajitas – and pick the fillers that best suit your palate. Add a little (or a lot of) spice from the infamous “Wall of Flame,” boasting over 50 hot sauces from around the world. Save room for dessert – the peach pecan chimichanga is out of this world. Don’t leave yet Coyote’s relaxed vibe and kicking music will entice you

to stick around and choose another margarita from the over 75 varieties, ranging from a medley of Thai fruit to daring experimental flavours like chocolate and bourbon.

โคโยตี ซอยคอนแวนต ถนนสีลม

INDIAN INDUS (map D4) 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-258-4900 | www. indusbangkok.com | Wed-Mon 11am10:30pm | all cards | $ Indians make up a big portion of the expats in Bangkok, thus the scarcity of good Indian restaurants in the city may come as a surprise. Thankfully, we’ve had Indus for more than two years. It’s quite a cosmopolitan place with rich sub-continental adornments though we favour the sloping outside seating in the large sloping garden, complete with an Indian Haveli and tables hidden by verdant flora. Equally hidden is the cool bar in the back, successfully blending New York extravagance and Moroccan panache, masculine leather sofas perfect for smoking that shisha. The menu focuses on exquisite Northern Indian cuisine (rich tikka

massala, mutton curry, perfect dahl, and naan to die for) but also includes Thai food; the vegetarian selection is huge. The impressive interior may invoke steep prices, but most dishes hover around B120 each. This is lowcost luxury at its best. Take a cab from the BTS (skytrain) station.

อินดัส สุขุมวิท 26

Coyote

Indus

River Dining Cruises A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/ Manohra or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental).Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last 2-3 hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. ■ APSARA Banyan Tree Bangkok | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com ■ CHAO PHRAYA CRUISE 02-541-5599 | www.chaophrayacruise.com ■ GRAND PEARL CRUISE 02-861-0255 | www.grandpearlcruise.com ■ HORIZON CRUISE The Shangri-La | 02-266-8165-6 | www.shangri-la.com ■ LOY NAVA 02-437-4932 | www.loynava.com ■ MAEYANANG The Oriental Hotel | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com ■ MANOHRA CRUISES 02-477-0770 | www.manohracruises.com ■ WAN FAH 02-222-8679 | www.wanfah.com ■ YOK YOR 02-863-0565 | www.yokyor.co.th Grand Pearl

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks Sheraton Grande Suk

humvit

Valentine’s Dinners

Just in case you forgot, 14 February is coming up … so mark this all-important date for lovers and loved ones on your calendar now. Splurge, splash out and treat that special someone to a night to remember. PS: we strongly suggest you reserve ahead! ■ Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

per couple) @ Fireplace Grill.

649-8364 • Barbecued delights (B1,800++ pp) @ poolside The Sala restaurant. 02-649-8365 • Meal, inclusive of an exotic love potion (B1,800++ pp) @ Basil Thai restaurant. 02-649-8366 • Wapas menu including a glass of Champagne (B1,800++ pp) @ BarSu. 02-649-8358 • Dinner, with oysters and foie gras @ Orchid Café (B1,400++ pp). 02-649-8356

Brasserie. All dining couples will receive a Valentine’s gift on 14 February. Reservations: 02-656-0360

• Five-course dinner (B2,400++ pp) @ Italian Rossini’s. 02- • Seafood Buffet (B2,500++ per couple) @ Espresso

■ The Sukhothai

• Pan-Asian buffet dinner (B1,500++ per couple) @ Colonnade.

• Six-course Italian set dinner (B3,999++ per couple) @ La Scala.

• Thai set dinner (B4,999++ per couple) @ Celadon. Dining couples will receive a complimentary ﬂower bouquet. Reservations: 02-344-8888 ext. 5104. ■ Nai Lert Park Bangkok

• 5-course dinner (B2,500++ pp) @ Ma Maison. Gifts for ladies • Dinner buffet (B1,200++pp) @ ISO Reservations: 02-253-0123 ext. 8056 ■ InterContinental Bangkok

• 5-course set menu, including a red rose for the ladies, a glass of Champagne and chocolate ice-cream bonbons (B6,000++

food & drinks

■ JW Marriott Bangkok

• Valentine’s Grand Buffet (B1,800++ pp) @ Marriott Café. • Set dinner with Thai classical dance (B1,500++ pp) @ White Elephant Thai restaurant.

• Set dinner menu (B1,600++ pp) @ Man Ho Chinese restaurant. • Set dinner menu (B2,200++ pp) @ Tsu Japanese restaurant. • Teppanyaki set menu (B1,800++ pp) @ Nami Japanese restaurant. Floral gifts for all the ladies. Reservations: 02-656-7700. ■ Three cosy independent restaurants make a great choice for Valentine. Check out: • Special Mediterranean menus such as tapas/mezze sets (from B390 to B460 per couple) and paella valenciana (B980 per couple) @ Crêpes & Co. – 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 12, BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit, 02-653-3990-1, 02-251-2895. • 4-course dinner (B990++ pp) @ Le Prégrill French restaurant – 73/2 Lang Suan Soi 4 BTS Chit Lom, 02-253-2919. • Two set choices including live violin, picture of couple and free entrance to club afterparty (B3,000 per couple) @ Ana Garden – 67 Thong Lo btw. Soi 1&2 – 02-391-1762.

bangkok 101

brunching

Stand Alone Brunch Venues

Mondo Brunch Buffets

■ SUNDAY JAZZY BRUNCH Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 | Sundays, 11:30am3pm, B1,600++ ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai | 02-344-8725 | Sundays, noon-4pm, B1,850++ ■ THE RAIN TREE CAFÉ Plaza Athénée Bangkok | 02-650-8800 | Sundays, noon-3pm, B2,100++

runching is big in Bangkok.All fivestar hotels and respectable cafés do them. Some are kid-friendly, others are strictly adult. You can get tipsy at some, while others focus on music. Curing a hangover? Need to eat al fresco? We offer you a sampling of Bangkok’s best.

featured

BRUNCH @ ISO

brunch

“Finally, food that’s true to its roots,” exclaims the press release for ISO restaurant, Nai Lert Park’s brunch venue, as if anticipating some inevitable Fusion Cuisine Backlash, (and maybe there should be: David Thompson regards fusion as an “unholy United Nations on a plate” – and he’s the only Michelin-starred Thai chef in the world). Here, semantics can be set aside – the most pertinent question is: WHERE Swissotel Nailert Park which authentic taste to pick ﬁrst? Bangkok 2 Wireless Rd, 02-253Indeed, this leisurely jazz0123, www.bangkok-nailertpark. accompanied affair amasses a swissotel.com OPEN Sundays, sprawling spread of choice cuts from 11:30am-3pm PRICE B1,200++ all of Nai Lert’s ﬁne restaurants. A gourmet greatest-hits package, drawn from French eatery Ma Maison, with its 20 different cheeses; Cantonese Dim Sum hailing from Noble House; classic Japanese, courtesy of Genji; and baked goodies from Gourmandises (the orange marmalade is sent from the kitchen of the Bhutanese queen mother’s Dechenchholing Palace, don’t you know). Families are also thoughtfully provided with a “Kids Friendly Corner” stocking mini burgers, hot dogs and pizza pockets – as well as balloontoting, magic-spouting mascots handily hosting creative activities. So grown-ups can recline in the afternoon sun in lush public gardens – a deal presumably most parents would be more than happy to strike by week’s end.

โรงแรมปารคนายเลิศ ถ. วิทยุ

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea

featured

T42

Elbow your way into Paragon if you must – but why not head across the plaza to Siam Center for a quieter cuppa? Perched on the fourth ﬂoor of the less-frequented mall, T42 presents a more serene – and economical – option than the tea’n’talk shops at shiny new-kid-on-theblock Paragon. Done up in cottage-cosy white, T42 doesn’t offer up an afternoon tea set, but inventive diners can rustle one up together by ordering off the extensive food menu and sharing some of the delicious desserts. For a Thai-ish tea, the roast-chicken “miang,” or lemongrass, lime, and savoury-packed bite wrapped in betel-nut leaves will whet the appetite. Follow that up with a “yum” or Thai salad and split up an unusual Thaiinﬂected sandwich. Have a run at the cakes – the Austrian coffee cake is so moist it barely holds together, and the Russian cheesecake is the odd but tasty lovechild of fruitcake and cheesecake – lemony cream cheese mixed with some candied fruit, slathered onto a graham-cracker crust and topped with slivered almonds. Teas are fairly standard – skip the Twinings teabags and head for the loose-leaf stuff. Our fave? Lapsang Souchong – the smokiness complements the sophisticated desserts beautifully. ที โฟร ทู ชั้น 4 สยามเซ็นเตอร

WHERE 4 Fl., Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd (map C3) BTS Siam, 02-251-6197 OPEN daily 10am-9pm

food & drinks

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24-hour restaurants (see hotel listings), pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling pp.96-97) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.66). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

SUKHUMVIT Gazebo Funky Thai and Global tapas until the wee hours. Sukhumvit Soi 1 | BTS Nana Took Lae Dee Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either. Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Sunrise Tacos A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you. 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | BTS Asoke | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com Royal Kitchen Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. 912/6 Soi Thong Lor (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thonglor | until 1am | 02-3919634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Royal Kitchen

Bug&Bee

bangkok 101

food & drinks

late-night dining

KHAO SAN Padthai Thipsamai If you’re around Khao Saan log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to be the best Pad Thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only Pad Thai with a website. 313 Mahachai Road (Near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | www. thipsamai.com | open 5pm-3am Mayompuri Garden dining amidst colonial architecture has both Thai and Western dishes. 22 Chakraphong Rd | 02-629-3883 | until 1am | www.mayompuri.com Tom Yum Kung Reasonably priced Thai food. 9 Trokmayom | Off Khao San Rd. towards Police Station (Look for the big sign) | 02-629-2772 | until 2am | www.tomyumkungkhaosan.com The Old Pra Athit Pier Restaurant Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier. 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Silk Bar and Restaurant Thai and International Food 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | www. silkbars.com

Coyote

Food&Drinks

sweet treats

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

IBERRY

No, it’s not the latest fruit from the Apple tree. WHERE Siam Square Although Macintosh has just come out with an Soi 2 (map C3) BTS “iBerry” application for the iPhone, we’re actually Siam, 02-658-3829, www. talking more along the lines of “soft cone” rather iberryhomemade.com than “software”. Thai-owned Iberry Homemade OPEN Sun-Thur 10amCo. Ltd. has been turning out delicious ice cream in 10pm, Fri-Sat 10am-10:30pm unique flavours since 1999. Its Siam Square outlet, one of the franchise’s first, still draws droves of teeny boppers wanting to lap up the diverse array of flavours on offer. Set in a bright, flowery store looking much like a blown-up doll’s house, Iberry’s most distinctive offerings feature Thai and regional flavours, from Rambutan to Durian. You won’t find scoops like these anywhere else. Those looking for more traditional choices can rest assured that classics are also available, as well as many fusion flavours like “Kiwi and Strawberry” and the excellent “Banana and Cheese”. The shop has a small selection of cakes as well, although sometimes these don’t live up to the ice cream. For thirst-quenchers, try one of the many Smoothberry drinks for a mostly guilt-free dessert alternative. ไอเบอรี่ สยามแสควร ซ. 2 80

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

wine

featured

wıne bar

WINE LOFT

Adding a new dimension to Bangkok’s WHERE 24/1 Sukhumvit growing wine scene is the newly opened Wine 31 (map D4) BTS Phrom Loft. What started as a hobby for oenophiles Phong, 02-260-0027 Moss Sachdev and Ken Narula is destined to OPEN daily 11am-11pm become Bangkok’s most innovative wine concept store. The chic and tastefully outfitted Wine Loft, with branches in Sukhumvit 31 and Thong Lo, stocks 300 labels, with more than half being some palate-tempting Italians, such as Gaja, Castello Banfi Montalcino and Amarone Della Valpolicella as well as French and new world wines. The marvellous thing about Wine Loft, though, is its wine-tasting station. The temperature-controlled refrigerated machine ensures oenophiles get what they’re paying for. You simply insert a card, with B2,000 credit, into a slot before choosing any of the four reds and four whites. Prices start from as little as B70 for a tasting glass to about B380 for a full glass. Once you’re done, you simply hand the card to the cashier to settle your bill. Best-sellers range from B800 to B2,000 a bottle. Customers may choose to enjoy their wines and Champagne while ensconced in comfortable chairs on the mezzanine floor, while cigar lovers savour their Cubans in an adjoining zone that will also serve up some great single malt whiskies. And if you’re peckish, there is a selection of moreish morsels. Not many though because this is, after all, a wine shop. ไวนลอฟท สุขมุ วิท 31

■ BACCHUS WINE BAR & CAFE LOUNGE 20/6-7 Soi Ruam Rudee, Pleonchit Rd | BTS PloenChit | 02-650-9986

food & drinks

Glass @ Giusto

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex ﬂavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle ﬂavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

941 Sukhumvit Rd. Between Sukhumvit 51-53 Mon - Sat 5.30 PM - 1 AM

BAR

WYNDHAM THAI

Live Band Tue - Sat 8 PM - Midnight For Reservation Tel: 02-662-7605

RESTAURANT

thai cuisine redefined.

paying respect to its culinary roots but adding a touch of aussie flair.

G/Fl., Somerset Lake Point, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, Bangkok Tel: 02-258-1783 Fax: 02-258-1784 www.wyndhamthai.com

Open 7 days a week Lunch - 11am to 2.30 pm Dinner - 6pm to 10.30 pm For Taxi: โซเมอรเซท เลคพอยท สุขุมวิท ซ.16

Nightlife

one night in bangkok DJ Cavo

angkok’s vibrant nightlife scene offers an infi nite number of options to choose from – far too many to list here. For a quiet pint of ale and pot of beef stew, there are Irish- and English-themed pubs, popular amongst homesick expatriates and sports junkies. Live music fans are also well catered for at a number of jazz, blues and rock venues. Alternatively, trendy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled and beautiful Other notable hot spots infor slick drinks and cutting-edge design. Bangkok’s legendary club “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major clude Banglamphu (p.90), the backpacker enclave along legscene and its international guest thoroughfare and its myriad endary Khao San Road and the DJs offer excellent opportunities adjoining sois, hosts many of bohemian café/bar scene on to party, whatever your persuathe city’s best nightspots.” Phra Athit Road. North-east sion. of the Sukhumvit area, Royal The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a throbbing nightlife centre. From so- City Avenue – or RCA – (p.88) is a lively strip of bars phisticated cocktail lounges to Patpong’s glaring go-go and clubs where hordes of young Thais congregate on bars, there’s something for everyone. The city’s gay scene weekends. The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its true is also busiest here, with the highest concentration of options centred around Silom Sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier potential as a nightlife centre, however, many of the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, Surawong Road. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare and its myr- Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fi veiad adjoining sois host many of the city’s best nightspots. star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed Supperclub (pp.88) lead the views of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to way in international-style nightlife. A more colourful side p.92. On the following pages we list the top of the crop of Bangkok nightlife shines in Sukhumvit’s two adult entertainment zones – Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and Soi Cow- – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to night clubs – to help you achieve that perfect night out. boy (btw Sois 21&23) – filled with neon-lit go-gos.

The stylish new way to sleep in Bangkok www.sleepatseven.com

nightlife

bangkok 101

Nightlife

nightclubs Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke.

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past five year s, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over top-class world talent (including some very eclectic ar t) for special events. Tuesday’s Hip Hop party packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with tribal house music. Sunday is ‘Think Pink’ and features a colourful Burlesque show. เบด ซัปเปอรคลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซอย11

Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com nightly 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka on offer!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife eight years ago and is still going strong, with a crowd every night and many big-name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Beat Therapy hip-hop par ty, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Liquid Thursday’s Funky House. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the newly renovated bar/lounge. Some relative solitude can be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather and people watching. คิว บาร ถ.สุขุมวิท ซอย11

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | nightly 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For 14 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live percussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-or-miss, but weekends are always packed and hopping. ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4

GLOW(map D4) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | www.glowbkk.com | nightly 6pm-1am This boutique club / bar / lounge challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-to-night but always excludes hip-hop (hurrah!). For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool website. โกล ถ.สุขุมวิท ซอย 23 nightlife

RCA

(map D3) Bangkok crowds are notoriously fickle, but Royal City Avenue’s (RCA) strip-mall style of pubs, bars and clubs astoundingly endures. It’s a neon-charged and brash atmosphere of super sound systems, visuals and live-video streaming of the ever-preening crowd. Clubs here are Thai-style affairs: chairs, tables and the all-important bottle of whiskey take centre stage on the dance floor so clubbers can easily take a seat when they’re too drunk to stand. Notable godfathers on the strip include Route 66, Flix/Slim and relative newcomer 808. Venues tend to be split-room affairs, adhering to a stringent policy of repetitive hip-hop, R&B and Thai pop in one room and banging funky house or the occasional live Thai band in the other.The crowds are young and undemanding, so if you’re out of your teens and are choosy about music this is not the place for you. It’s a designated ‘Entertainment Zone’ but the 1am curfew still applies in most places. There’s no cover charge for most venues but security is tight, so bring some ID. Drinks at RCA clubs are cheap and Thai dishes and snacks are usually available if you’re peckish. GETTING THERE MRT Rama 9 Petchburi or BTS Thong Lo and a short cab ride will do the trick. bangkok 101

THE TUNNEL (map C3) Lang Suan Soi 5 | Tue-Sun 1am-till late Bangkok’s late-night venues equal adventure and The Tunnel, growing by word-of-mouth, screamed from clubber to clubber, is no exception. Flash your ID at the harmless hulks on the door to enter a crypt-style hangout that’s filled with a veritable who’s who of the social scene.There’s ample dancing space and a DJ pod in the middle of the dance floor. A sweet sound system and switched-on DJs blasting progressive house and electro ensure club-goers won’t be disappointed. It’s house music all the way but the tune selection is a cut above the usual stuff that passes for dance music in other venues. Expect guest appearances from classy, European DJs. The entry fee includes one or two drinks. Choose from beers, whiskey, cocktails and more. Turn up around 1am and you’ll usually get to dance until 4:30-5am. เดอะ ทันนัล หลังสวน ซ. 5

Bed Supperclub

The Club

CLUB CULTURE (map C3) Sri Ayutthaya Rd (opp. Siam City Hotel) | BTS Phaya Thai | 08-9497-8422 | www.club-culture-bkk.com | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am | B400 (incl. 2 drinks) Club Culture comes from the owners of the online clubbers’ guide, Buzzin’ Mag and Café Democ. Climb carpeted steps, pass through a curtained stairwell and you’ll enter a space where chandeliers and Thai wood carvings hang from the ceiling. Strategically placed structures, great for resting an elbow or a drink, dot the open-plan dance floor, surrounded by plush sofas and stools. It’s a beautiful building but the toilets lack a little finesse. This modish, 1,000-capacity club attracts a cross-cultural mix of trendy Thais and expats and the diversity is mirrored in the music policy. They aim to promote new talent, while still bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of break beat, electronica, trance, indie rock, drum ‘n’ bass and house music of all genres. คลับ คัลเจอร ถ. ศรีอยุธยา

THE CLUB (map A2-3) 123 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02629-1010 | www.theclubkhaosan.com | free The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers will be amazed to find they’ve entered a castle on Khao San Road.The spiral staircase to the central DJ platform and sky-high windows give a fairy-tale vibe that would make Rapunzel want to let her hair down and hang loose. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house with a B300-500 entry fee for special events from psy-trance to breakbeat to global DJs. Ladies’ night on Thursdays treats the crowd to live percussion, while a saxophonist jazzes it up on Fridays. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and dancers entertain on Friday and Saturday nights. The Club aims to raise the stakes on the Khao San strip with plans for an outdoor monitor that will stream live action from the naughty goings-on inside. เดอะ คลับ ถ. ขาวสาร

Nightlife

hotel nightclubs BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www. barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a twostar Michelin chef (BelgianYves Mattagne). As gimmicks go, this one surely takes the cake (or, rather, the feather-light crème brûlée). In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. While you’re still getting your head round one sly culinary twist (warm tom yum kung jelly, anyone?) you’re hit with yet another gastronomic slight of hand. The imaginative presentation throughout echoes the innovation of the dishes, and this culinary wonders won’t murder your wallet; prices are really quite reasonable.

บารสุ โรงแรมเชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท

Q-Bar

BarSu

SYN BAR (map C3) Lobby Level, Nai Lert Park Swissotel 2 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02253-0123 | daily 6pm-2am This swanky hotel hangout does raise some bars, especially when it comes to style. You’ll spend half an hour taking it all in – the suspended, translucent bubble chairs, the amorphous couches, the ornate lighting.The completely glassencased bar screams retro-future.Think 1960s ovalism, 1970s fluidity. The vast drinks menu lists a lot of signature cocktails, though the Asian-inspired martinis and spicy creations (like the Wasabi Mary, one of our personal faves) are way better than the Seven Deadly Syns. Syn Bar is considerably less crowded than other hotel nightclubs, which is not necessarily something bad.

ซิน บาร โรงแรมปารคนายเลิศ ถ.วิทยุ

nightlife

87+ (map C3) Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.87bangkok.com | daily 9pm-2am The Conrad’s 87+ caters well to its upscale hotel guests. It features a pumping band doing the latest covers, and DJs playing a mixture of quality house music and commercial hip hop and R&B. Look out for the irregularly run Bhangra Nights with steamy Indian beats. Attached to 87+ is Italianate, a very good Italian restaurant with interesting décor. Start off the night listening to a set of worldclass live jazz in the Diplomat Bar, and afterwards stroll across the lobby to 87+ to take advantage of one of Bangkok’s great late happy hours, nightly from 8pm to 10pm.

87 พลัส โรงแรมคอนราด ออลซีซั่นเพลส ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

Proud Phu fah

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

bars CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-252-6572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place.The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnameseinspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (on an irregular schedule, often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues.The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is little more than a wooden shack with a couple of barstools surrounding it, a makeshift kiosk really. Every night, an eclectic mix of tourists and foreign residents populates the stools – be prepared to stand. The prices are unbelievably low – you can get a G&T for B60, while beer sells for B50. No girlie bar, the unique place is heavily stuffed with oddities collected over the 20 years this Bangkok institution’s been in operation. Buffalo skulls, beehives, tribal masks and sex toys hang down from rafters, while the bar is stocked with an impressive range of alcohol. Beware to ‘only piss in toilets’, as one sign warns you. Ask the patrons about the bar’s countless myths. Go down Soi 11 and take the first left. The perfect place to while away some boozy hours amidst experienced barflies.

ชีพ ชารลยี  ถ.สุขมุ วิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02-286-1558 | MRT Lumphini | Mon – Sat 10pm till ? Quentin Tarantino would love this quirky late-night watering hole. On the block for 20 years and a must for music geeks, there’s not a working girl in sight, not even a waitress.Two fridges stocked with cheap drinks invite a self-service and pay-as-you-go honour system. Wong’s Place is known to Bangkok old-timers and it’s not uncommon to find guests revisiting the bar for the first time in years with travel stories to tell and looking for their photo on the wall. Owner Sam Wong inherited and extended his brother’s love for music videos, everything from 1950s jazz through punk to MTV-influenced babel.Wong’s houses the largest known collection in Asia, if not globally.Take his opening hours with a grain of salt:Wong opens when the mood fits.

วองส เพลส ซอยงามดูพลี

ONE NIGHT IN BANGLAMPHU (map A2) The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of city execs, Thai students and travellers. A neat Khao San cocktail joint is hidden in a small side street and clad in eclecticism and cool kitsch. Sunset Street is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Cooler clubs include stylishly furnished Lava, a popular basement joint playing speedy house and hip hop. Café Democ, a faux-Euro club turning out electronic music, attracts a hip but unpretentious older clique. For a laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby riverside along Phra Athit Road, lined with little bars, trendy cafés and hole-in-the-wall restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village and London’s High Street Kensington, it’s a favorite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Bar Bali and tiny Joy Luck Club deserve a mention. For outstanding seafood and absolutely no flair, check out Thon Po. Directly on the riverside, this breezy place offers fantastic views and delicious fish and crustaceans from an expansive menu. Call ahead to reserve a riverfront spot. COFFEE & MORE 102/1 Phra Athit Rd, Sun-Thur 10am-10pm, Fri & Sat-midnight HEMLOCK 56 Phra Athit Rd, 02-282-7507, Mon-Fri 4pm-midnight, Sat 5pm-midnight BAR BALI 58 Phra Athit Rd, 02-629-0418, daily 5pm-11.30pm JOY LUCK CLUB 8 Phra Sumen Rd, 02-280-3307, daily 11am-1am THON PO 43 Phra Athit Rd, 02-280-0452, daily 11am-10pm HIPPIE DE BAR 46 Khao San Rd, daily 10am-1am LAVA 249 Khao San Road, 02-281-6565, daily 8pm-1am CAFÉ DEMOC Ratchadamnoen Rd at Democracy Monument,02-622 -2571,Tue-Sun 4pm-1am nightlife

bangkok 101

Hu’u

Gazebo

HU’U (map C4) The Ascott Building, 187 South Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-676-6676 www.huuinasia.com | daily 11am-1am This multi-functional conglomerate of lounge/bar/restaurant/gallery borders on the verge of over-stylishness, but it’s a neat place to down a few fab cocktails. In cosily dim tones, the place is impressively styled with dark woods that are complemented by soft-coloured silk sofas. The open atrium combines a tall bar (check out the striking liquor shelf) with marble-topped, communal tables and a sleek mezzanine restaurant serving global fare. Hu’u (pronounced ‘who’) tends to draw in more social highfliers than other Silom area night spots. The chill house and lounge tracks and the amazing cocktail menu are worth an hour or two of your time. Do some martinis here; other drinks are innovative, maybe too much so. Perfect for pre-clubbing.

ฮู อาคารเอสคอรท ถ.สาทรใต

RAIN DOGS (map C4) 16 Soi Phraya Phiren, Rama 4 Rd | 081-720-6989 (Jum), 087-055-9407 (Cartoon) | 9pm till late Though rain dogs are poor mutts who lose the scent of home in the rain, it’s the humans who forget where home is after frequenting this bar, where half the pleasure is in finding the bar in the first place. A human-sized birdcage, pond and collage-like décor add to Rain Dogs’ character, while windows and patio doors blur the line between indoor and outdoor space. Though DJs and salsa nights are featured on occasion, the music policy is mainly DIY: bring your iPod to plug in and play, request what you want to hear or start your own jam session on the drums.The vibe swings pleasantly between rowdy and chilled and the Thai indie kid/artsy expat clientele can choose from an array of inexpensive beers and spirits.

เรนดอกส ซ.พระยาพิเรนทร ถ.พระราม 4

GAZEBO (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 1 | BTS Nana | 02-824-8011 | 7pm till late Just at the mouth of Sukhumvit Soi 1 this unexpected rooftop oasis is the mid-city answer to its Khao San sister. Amid the evening entertainment madness that is Nana, this recently opened place its offering up a multi-functional far from the usual neighbourhood watering hole. Gazebo is part open-air lounge (think large cosy booths and shishas), part restaurant (Thai and global tapas), part live music venue (a wide mix of Jazz, funk, Reggae, rock, classic, pop) and part nightclub (called “The Harem”, it’s positioned to be one of the area’s only true late night....or was that early morning?...offerings). OK, it’s a lot to put under one roof – or on one roof top as it would be – but Gazebo seems committed to carving itself a solid niche on the Sukhumvit nightlife map.

กาเซโบ สุขุมวิท ซ. 1

SARASIN ROAD (map C3)

It sure is fun to hang in Bangkok’s hopping hoods, but sometimes the throngs around RCA, Khao San and Silom Soi 4 get too much. The hippest youngsters (and the ones looking young) congregate on a short strip just north of Lumphini Park, a stone’s throw away from Silom. Trendy Singaporeans have discovered the western end of Sarasin Road as a playground, but only a few Caucasians venture here. The educated, fun-seeking masses of all sexual orientations are nice enough to strike up a conversation with, the music is fun, prices are low – it’s the perfect place for a relaxed night out. Even Monday nights see these small bars well-peopled; they’re heaving on weekends. Start your night out early at The Room. Two-ﬂoored and airy, with funky décor and richly colored walls, it sports the strip’s best food – fun fusion dishes for okay prices. Later, it ﬁlls up with glam guys and house beats. 70s Bar is quite homo-friendly, and celebrates 70s and 80s tunes plus Euro Pop. Eclectic seating is worth a look inside. Zarazine does cheesy live music while 2nd Round and Bard are heavily hetero and focus on hip hop. Upstairs I-Chub is the place for clubby boys and their fans to do some karaoke. Brown Sugar, one of Bangkok’s top live jazz venues, is the most mature of the bunch. Each bar puts out tables on the pavement, creating an almost European feel beneath the trees and offering perfect people-watching, especially at 1am when the lights go on and everybody streams out on the street. bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

bars with a view Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars from where to survey the glittering skyline below. Moon Bar

MOON BAR (map C4) 61st Fl Banyan Tree Bangkok | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | daily 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

มูนบาร รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32nd Fl Millennium Hilton Bangkok | 123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | daily 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be part of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three 92

The Dome

Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osietra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

ทรีซกิ ตี้ รร.มิลเลเนีย่ ม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร

V9 (map C4) 37th Fl Sofitel Silom | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | daily 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee. The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe. The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights. The music is good, and the view through the floorto-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is hear t-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

วีนาย รร. โซฟเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

THE DOME (map B3/4) State Tower 1055, Silom Rd | 02-6249555 | www.thedomebkk.com | daily 6pm-1am Gourmets hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to the nightlife

Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Mediterranean restaurant Sirocco – offers a panoramic view of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor bar Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and the Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seafood eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 also sports a stunning view from the 51st-52nd floors.This is not a spot for the casual beach bum, so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a smart-casual dress code is enforced.

เดอะโดม สเตททาวเวอร ถ. สีลม

THE ROOF TOP (map C3) 83rd Fl Baiyoke Sky Hotel | 222 Rajaprarop Rd | 02-656-3000 | www.baiyokehotel.com Perched above everything, the view is the best and seemingly only draw, at this slightly old and very campy sky-high watering hole. Step off the elevator and it seems like you’ve been transported to outer space. That is if outer space was a tacky touristy joint with tutti-frutti coloured walls. Passable cocktails and a cheesy live band belting out tired covers only distract you from what really makes this place worth visiting, the sprawling metropolis below. For full-screen Bangkok, take the stairs, pass the kitschy solar system murals and extra-terrestrials (yes, you read that right) up to the 84th floor and let the wind hit you in the face at the open-air revolving deck and try to recognize the now ant-sized malls you were in earlier.

เดอะรูฟทอป รร.ใบหยกสวีท ถ.ราชปรารถ

bangkok 101

hotel jazz clubs

The Living Room

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights this month catch the sultry sounds of Cynthia Utterbach. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon. A definite big Bangkok must. แบมบูบาร โรงแรมโอเรียลเต็ล ถ.โอเรียลเต็ล

bangkok 101

DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thur 10am-1am | Fri-Sat 2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporar y, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly. Ver y hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. Monday through Saturday nights this month, catch American versatile jazz diva Mandy Gaines. ดิพโพรแมทบาร โรงแรมคอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

nightlife

THE LIVING ROOM (map C3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com | daily 10am-12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s still a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rappor t. All month long The Living Room plays host to jazz guitar legend Jerry Byrd, performing every Sunday and Monday evening from 9pm–11.45pm. Tuesday through Saturday nights this month (as well as during the hotel’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch each week) catch the spectacular Judy Roberts & Greg Fisherman Quartet. ลิฟวิ่งรูม โรงแรมเชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท

Nightlife

live music

belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk and R&B while the crowd feasts on hearty Thai and Western fare.

แซกโซโฟน บาร ถ. พญาไท

Ad Makers

TOKYO JOE’S (map D4) 25/9 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | (opposite Tara Hotel) | 02-661-0359 | www.tokyojoesbkk.com | daily 6pm1am Nobody knows quite where blues aficionados went before this place opened, but they’ve found a home here. After a brief hiatus, Tokyo Joe’s is back in a new location where two cool guys put all their efforts into this live blues mecca, and it shows. The stage sets fire nightly from 9:30pm with talented, mostly-local musicians performing blues, interspersed with jazz, soul and R&B. Unique for Bangkok are the flamenco nights on Mondays; Sunday’s jam sessions are well-liked. A mixed, but mostly Western crowd is always impressed by the schedule (check the website for details) and the unassuming, tasty Asian-American pub favourites. This place is for serious blues lovers.

โตเกียวโจส สุขุมวิท 26

BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best 94

one is definitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club.The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน ชูการ ถ.สารสิน

SAXOPHONE BAR (map C2) 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 02 246-5472 | www. saxophonepub.com | daily 6pm-2am This unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. Just a stone’s throw away from a BTS station, it’s nevertheless not a tourist hangout. Filled with masses of fun-filled, youngish Thais and the odd foreigner thrown in, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its low-ceilinged, wooden floors. Nightly, talented Thai bands nightlife

AD MAKERS (map C3) 51/51 Soi Lang Suan | BTS Chit Lom | 02-652-0168 | Sun-Thur 6pm-1am, Fri & Sat -2am Bangkok’s sanctuary of live rock’n’roll. Nightly, Ad Makers draws a crowd which can appreciate decades of classic rock hits from Hendrix to Lynyrd Skynyrd, The Police to Coldplay. Mon. through Sat. a trio of hipsters strums acoustic sets from 8pm to 10pm, leading the way for the Big Boy Band, performing classic rock hits until 1am. Sunday nights feature an all-female folk band. Don’t expect designer cocktails here; the bar is stocked mainly with Jack Daniels and Johnnie Walker.They serve respectable grub, including – count ‘em – 37 varieties of spicy Thai salads.

แอดเมคเกอรส ซ.หลังสวน ถ.เพลินจิต

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Banglumphu | 089769-4613 | daily 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quar ter), the down-to-ear th, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do the Thai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอทเฮีย 13 ถ.สามเสน บางลำภู

bangkok 101

TITANIUM (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | www.titanium-club.com | daily 6pm1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly. Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 90-some varieties to choose from. An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

Brown Sugar

Shela

SHELA (map C3) 106 Soi Lang Suan | 02-254-6463 daily7pm-2am| www.shelacorner.com No boys allowed! Shela’s super-friendly, mellow vibe makes it a welcome addition to the mini-boom the city has seen in female-exclusive establishments. The two-floor space is heaving with toms (tomboys) and dee (ladies) working their butch-femme dynamics, straight women, and all other females in between. A very Thai space, but open enough to embrace farang women as well – cute and flirty servers make everyone feel right at home. Menu features light Thai dishes, drinks include the dubiously titled “Sperm” and “Freaky Ladies,” but most just stick with Thai whiskey sodas. House band plays hip-hop covers with some Thai pop treacle in between – in general, the music, both on stage and spun, is bangingly good, although the crowd is so chilled-out it takes a while before patrons bust out their moves.

ชีลา ซ.หลังสวน

BRICK BAR (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) As the name suggests, this bar’s built solely from red brick and the friendly atmosphere makes it a popular choice for locals. Perfect for drinks with friends who’ve just hit town. Brick Bar is a magnet for live music lovers and is packed most nights of the week and offers Thailand’s best ska, reggae, funk and blues bands all of whom play much of their own material. It’s a dark and airy vault with downstairs seating, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. Good Thai food is available from the sister hotel and the venue often attracts big name bands like T-Bone for special events. Beers start from B60, cocktails from B150 and even the obligatory whiskey is given a slinky twist with table service from waitress “pretties.”

บริค บาร ถ. ขาวสาร

The Tonic Rays’ Debut Album

Chiang Mai has long been one of the best places to watch traditional live rock in Thailand, but original offerings are generally thin on the ground. Finally, there’s something to write home about. The Tonic Rays, a local true-to-roots band has generated quite the following and an impressive original repertoire. Though it’s hard to capture singer/guitarist Marie Dance’s engaging enthusiasm on disc, not to mention veteran guitarist Joe Cummings’ cool laid-back swagger, their first, eponymous CD should please anyone with a yen towards edgy, old-school yowling. Cummings’ “Too Lazy to Break Your Heart” – a sly, swinging rocker, and Dance’s “Sleep” – an infectious bouncing lullaby – are two of the standouts on this tangy, twangy ten-song compilation. For ordering info, visit: www.thetonicrays.com

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

pub crawling Nick Measures

featured

pub

here are many ways of quenching a thirst, but surely the most enjoyable has to be sipping a pint of real beer in a proper public house. With an unexpectedly wide choice of British and Irish bars offering a taste of pub life, Bangkok won’t let you down on this front. Bangkok 101 dragged our very own pub-crawler par-excellence Nick Measures out of the boozer to get the low-down on the top taverns around town.

THE ROBIN HOOD

With a prime spot in the expat enclave around Phrom Phong BTS, it is no surprise that this pub has a loyal band of merry regulars. It keeps them happy by following an unfussy formula of affordable beers, dark wood décor and live sports on 12 screens. Split into two ﬂoors, the open-plan downstairs offers both ‘faux Tudor’ patterned bench seats and heavy wood tables to sit and sup an imported beer whilst stills from various Robin Hood movies remind you where you are. Upstairs the mezzanine has a more intimate lounge feel, with a pool table, comfy leather sofas and oak-panelled walls. It’s a little clichéd, but it does enough to stand out from its rivals. For a start, the all-day, WHERE Sukhumvit every day 2-for-1 deal on spirits is not to be Soi 33/1 BTS Phrom sniffed at and they also claim to serve the Phong, 02-662-3390 coldest beer in Bangkok. While punters OPEN daily 10amcan often be found cheering or seething midnight at sports scores on the big screen, the pub tries to mix it up by throwing some jams in there with the jocks: regular live music is on offer a couple of nights a week. Opt for soul, pop and rock on Thursdays or the bizarre, though entertaining, “human jukebox” on Fridays. Armed with just a keyboard, this one-man karaoke kid claims to know over 1000 songs. The international/Thai food is also worth a try with weekly specials and classics like toad-in-the-hole and ﬁsh and chips. เดอะ โรบิน ฮูด สุขมุ วิท ซ. 33/1

What’s on Tap?

DID

YOU The reputation of Thai brew is mixed to say the least, and decent choices are limited, but beer remains KNOW? a popular beverage among locals. Don’t be fooled by menus referring to Heineken and Asahi as “locals” - those are brewed here under local licence. The actual Thai heavyweights are Singha Beer Due to the oven-like temperatures red (pronounced “Sing”) and Chang Beer. Chang is the Thai word for elephant, and after a few cans wine is quite often of this you may feel like you’ve been trampled by one when you wake up. Not considered a classy served chilled. It’s brew by any means, it has been triumphant due to its lower price and higher alcohol percentage and also been known for beers to be glugged guaranteed intoxication. It’s much harder to find in classier bars compared to Singha Beer, which is the with ice. more high-brow choice. Chang’s reception is a bit spotty as some are quite fond of it while others liken it to urine. Forget the cans and stick to draught for a better bet. Micro-brewed Phuket Beer is harder to track down but many swear by it as a superior local choice. Many breweries have suds aimed at lower markets - the most notable being Singha’s underling, Leo Beer. Of course you get what you pay for with these. Also, independent breweries can be found, like at the Londoner Brew Pub or Tawandaeng Beer Garden 96

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

SILOM AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. With Kilkenny and Guinness on tap, Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) - there’s live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout can make it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer including John Smith’s, Beer Lao and Guinness, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to a fantastic happy hour where you can enjoy a Margarita for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak SATHORN ROAD

THANIYA

PATPONG

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2 1 BTS Sala Daeng

SUKHUMVIT AREA PUBS

bangkok 101

SOI 39

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BTS Asoke

SOI 22

SOI 12

BTS Nana

SOI 6

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SOI 35

SOI 11

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SOI 33

SOI 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [12] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, including draught Kilkenny and Guinness, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [11], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s ‘Toss the Boss’; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [10] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [9], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopping tours

SiAm SQuAre It’s time to get out of the malls and markets to explore Bangkok’s inspired fashion scene. Dive into the crowded cache of boutiques where young socialites and chic fashionistas all crowd in Siam Square for the chance to find their own piece of fashion happiness. Do it like the Thais - shop a lot, eat a lot, and if you see something you like, buy it! No questions coming back isn’t an option. Start with soi 5. A quick pop into Thamarat, totally Thai with great dresses for cocktails or dinner. Down the soi stands Judy is my hero, a boutique with every adorned flip-flop imaginable. Strolling onto soi 4, first drop into Mango Tango for a shake. Once refreshed, toddle back out into the heat and hit center point. Here we find Hardware by divine - a cosy shop for guys with a bit of modish edge. Soi 3 is the pinnacle of voguish Thai fashion architecture. Do not miss It’s happened to be a closet. Enjoy a pastry or coffee while shopping here. Even the most refined shopper will appreciate Fashion-nista, Davi Maa, and 8 ½, a tasteful mishmash of Thai fashion works. Saunter past Lido cinema, where youngsters find jeans and casual wear, to end up at soi 2. Three shops worth investigating here: Perfect combination, Poem, and Pronto. Finish up across the way at Iberry with a unique Thai flavoured ice cream, the perfect ending to a hot yet rewarding afternoon of treading through the trenches of Siam Square.

RAMA 1

FINISH HERE SOI 2

SOI 3

SOI 4

SOI 5

START HERE

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FINISH HERE

Indra Regent Hotel Pratunam Market

PHETCHABURI RD

START HERE

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Panthip

Platinum Fashion Mall

RATCHAPRAROP RD

PHAYATHAI RD

prAtunAm

Jump off the BTS at Ratchatewi and round the corner to Phetchaburi Rd, making your way to one of Bangkok’s most jam-packed shopping neighbourhoods, awash with markets and malls bestowing a rapturous day-tripping delight for the unstoppable bargain hunter. Pratunam is best known for its vast supply of extremely inexpensive commodities. Fakes of just about any name brand ever mentioned are easily accessible. Remember they aren’t just cheap in price, but also quality. Half-way down Phetchaburi awaits the infamous Panthip Plaza. Be careful, because this place is full of swindlers taking advantage of unwary tourists. Though you can pick up great quality electronics here, keep in mind that if it sounds too cheap, it probably is. Next door is Platinum Fashion Mall. Bargains galore! Mainly clothes and accessories, this is where many locals go to get fashionable yet inexpensive jeans, shirts, shoes, and jewellry. At the corner of Phetchaburi and Ratchaprarob lies Pratunam market, an unmarked labyrinth of tables bursting with those infamous copies. If brave enough, head to the interior, where clothes can often be found at wholesale prices. The last stop is inside the Indra Regent Hotel’s shopping centre. The arcade isn’t much different from Platinum except it’s smaller and more manageable. It hosts hordes of quality tailors. shopping

bangkok 101

ChinAtoWn (yAoWArAt)

RD IT M AI TR U N G

RATCHAWONG RD

SONG SAWAT RD

CHAKKRAWAT RD

MRT Hua Lamphong

KR RD

CHAKRAPHET RD

BURAPA RD

Sampeng Market

YAOWARAT RD

START HERE

RAMA IV RD

PAHURAT RD

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FINISH HERE

Thieves Market

The Old Siam

MAHACHAI RD

Bangkok’s Chinatown, or Yaowarat, is a great place to spend an afternoon crawling through the puzzling streets and markets. Taxis are a no-no. Take the MRT to Hua Lamphong, exit out the front of the rail station, and cross the street to Traimit Rd. Walking down this street you’ll notice Wat Traimit, which houses the largest solid gold Buddha. Across from the Wat is the huge Odeon Gate which opens the way to Yaowarat Rd, and Chinatown. If you are looking to get some gold, here is the place. Make your way down Charoen Krung until it intersects with Chakrawat Rd. Take a left and you’ll come upon a clash of cultures and markets. First is the Thieves Market for second hands and antiques. Next, you’ll come upon Sampeng Lane. This crowded soi, barely passable, is riddled with cheap jewellry, accessories, bags, fabric stores and much more. Cross Chakrawat onto Pahurat for the center of Thailand’s Indian community and some excellent deals on fabrics and clothing. Pass through the lane and turn right at Burapa where you’ll find The Old Siam, a very local four-storey market where you can check out some Thai sweets. Getting out may be as difficult as getting in. Hop into a taxi, and pray that it doesn’t take you longer than an hour to get back to your hotel.

SOI WANIT 1

Pahurat Market

Bangkok’s precious pampering paradise lies on Soi Thong Lo. Lined with spas, luxury condos and eateries, it also has some of the top shopping outside the ever-present malls. For a local experience, it’s off the train and on to a local red bus to the opposite end of the soi… The first stop in Thong Lo is H1. Think optimum Italian design. The design complex embraces contemporary brands alongside the Accademia Italiano Fashion Design Institute. Cool off in Playground! appealing to the young upcoming fashionistas, it’s a be-seen kind of place. Thing is, they have some really cool stuff. Buzz past the art crowd and upstairs to seek out exquisite home and kitchen accessories. The Playground! Bookstore has the best collection of fashion magazines in the city. A mainstay on Thong Lo is J Avenue. Loaded with Japanese restaurants, and al fresco cafés, a few select shops manage the diva demand with sexy heels and handbags. Down on the corner of soi 10 is Third Place. Pop in TrueLife@Thonglo for smashing smoothies and internet. Just in case it isn’t obvious watch out for the rampaging bride. Thong Lo is the wedding mecca for the élite. If you are in the market for a wedding dress this soi should have everything you want.

thong Lo

BTS Thong Lo

bangkok 101

SOI 20

START HERE

shopping

NEW PHETCHABURI RD

SOI 15

Third Place

SOI 18

SOI 10

FINISH HERE

Playground!

J Avenue

SOI 55 (THONG LO)

SOI 6

SUKHUMVIT RD

SOI 13

SOI 53

Shopping

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 The Four Seasons 4 Grand Hyatt Erawan 5 Intercontinental 6 Holiday Inn 7 Conrad 8 Plaza Athenee 9 Royal Orchid Sheraton 10 The Oriental 11 The Peninsula 12 Shangri-La

1 PHAYA THAI RD

BTS Siam RAMA 1 RD

HENRY DUNANT RD

RATCHADAMRI RD 3

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chit Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine. Think Burberry.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

Elevated Walkway

CENTRAL WORLD PLAZA / ZEN BTS Chit Lom This pair of recently renovated mega-malls team up as one of Bangkok’s top monster shopping complexes.

U RI RD

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

PH E TB

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

PHAYA THAI RD

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

RATCHADAMRI RD

4 5 6

BTS Chitlom

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R AYA

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OEN K CHAR

To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Prom Phong

RIVE R

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its air y architecture . Look for TCDC , the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

PHYR A

BTS Ploen Chit

CENTRAL CHIDLOM BTS Chit Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

C HAO

S I PH

PHETBURI RD

PLOENCHIT RD

WITTHAYU RD

GAYSORN BTS Chit Lom All-white interior of glitzy, topclass brands – expectVuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

CHITLOM

LANG SUAN RD

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Phloen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

G WON SUR A

OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel. 12

M S ILO

bangkok 101

Shopping Chatuchak

Photography by Paul Lefèvre and TAT

markets

CHATUCHAK This weekend market is the best and busiest in town. Here, hundreds of thousands descend every weekend to trade everything from Burmese antiques to livestock. Spread over a sizeable area, the maze of alleys in this sometimes overwhelming market is jam-packed with an astonishing array of goods, divided loosely into specific areas. Originally a flea market, it has become a creative centre over the past five years, with many young Thai designers taking advantage of the low rent to sell their wares. Also some excellent food stalls selling great grub at cheap prices. Be sure to make your way over to the pet section. With everything from dogs and cats to snakes and rats this is not your typical pet shop. As it tends to get very busy (and hot), it’s best to go either in the early morning or late afternoon. Although you won’t get the full-blown experience many retail shops are open for business on Friday making it a great time to come for those who aren’t too keen to bump against a thousand sweaty elbows. Getting lost in here is all but a given. It just adds to the whole mystique of this market which is quite possibly the largest in the world. Return visitors still get puzzled and you could easily end up spending all day trying to find your way out if you’re 102

venturing in unguided. To help you navigate the market, we recommend Nancy Chandler’s Map, available at any good Bangkok bookshop. If you need Chatuchak with air-con, visit government-run Narai Phand opposite Central World Plaza; here you can find good-value handicrafts from all over the country. And you don’t even have to bargain.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR The city’s official night bazaar, this market is smaller and easier to navigate than Chatuchak, and much less sweaty. It is complemented by a lively food court and beer garden. Geared heavily towards tourists, the stalls here offer the usual mix of crafts, textiles and local knick-knacks that feature slightly inflated price tags compared to the weekend market. You’ll also find some interesting clothes from local designers. It’s quite straightforward and you won’t get lost. Just keep walking and you’ll come upon quite a few creative gems amongst the trinkets and it’s well worth looking around, if only to build up your thirst for the connecting food/beer garden. Here cheesy cover bands blast out favourites while food vendors do brisk business. To wash it all down, there’s a wide selection of local and German beers, available by the glass or better yet try the self-dispensing gallon tank. With all that said however, you truly must enjoy this while you can; sadly this Bangkok gem is facing impending doom because the wrecking ball is soon coming through to make room for – yes, you guessed it – yet another modern shopping mall.

สวนลุมไนทบารซาร

Suan Lum Night Bazaar

shopping

bangkok 101

Wet mArKetS Bangkok has a number of large ‘wet’ markets and hundreds of smaller ones catering to residential areas. The pavements of the city are jam-packed with food vendors all day long, selling fresh fruit and vegetables to the endless stream of passers-by. Thais love to snack and fruit ranks as the most popular bite in-between meals. KHLONG TOEI

คลองเตย

This large market offers the full spectrum of ingredients required for the intricacies of Thai cuisine. Fresh meat, fish, herbs and spices rub shoulders with towering piles of vegetables, fruit and rice. The vendors with live ornamental fish for sale, hanging on their walking sticks, will get a quizzical first-time take. Visit it in the very early morning as the market slows down after 10am. SAM YAN

สามยาน

On the outskirts of Chinatown, this wet market is smaller but offers much the same fresh produce as Khlong Toei, albeit with some more obvious Chinese inﬂuences. TALING CHAN

ตลิง่ ชัน

(see Floating Market p.36)

Pratunam

PATPONG In recent years this sleazy strip of go-go bars and assorted slime has emerged as a busy night market as well as seedy redlight district. The go-go bars have become almost invisible behind the tight network of stalls that are set up along Silom and Patpong starting around 6pm nightly. Along with the usual tourist junk and knock-offs, the market offers some decent local crafts and innovative souvenirs. Prices are definitely geared to tourists; bargaining is a must.

พัฒนพงศ

KHAO SAN ROAD This budget travellers’ enclave is home to a variety of shops catering to the younger visitor (beer, t-shirts, CDs, second-hand books). Khao San has a unique vibrancy any time of the day and is an excellent place to visit for a snack or cold drink while exploring Rattanakosin.

ถนนขาวสาร

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, Pak Khlong Talad, a 24-hour hive of floral activity awash with blooms carted in bangkok 101

shopping

from around the country. Horticulturists will enjoy a stroll through the blossom-scented pavements. It’s good to bargain, as foreign faces tend to pay more than local ones.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest to access by river taxi.

เทเวศน

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the Thieves Market, this smallish streetside market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique and a selection of household appliances. There are bargains waiting to be discovered.

นครเกษม

PRATUNAM A popular trading centre for textiles and fabrics, this lively market is spread around the base of the Baiyoke II Tower, attracting a colourful mix of African, Arabic and local traders.

ประตูน้ำ

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Shopping

stuff

he Big Mango has been touted as one of Asia’s shopping meccas for years. The only problem is knowing where to find what you want. Bangkok has shopping of all varieties, from megalithic shopping malls, where you need a personal assistant; the sidewalkers’ paradise of stalls and tables along the BTS route and beyond; the wonderful caches of speciality boutiques; to the myriad markets splotched across the city. Each place has its own sensibility. There is too much shopping to be done here to waste precious time. Minimise time expenditure, and maximise the bags in your hand: Here are some highlights. Duty Free: Airport and beyond Why pay taxes? Anytime you can save money, take advantage! Airport shopping in a bling new complex, open for less than a year, allows travellers to peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. They don’t have the most up-to-date products from the big names, but good choices abound nonetheless. This is the place for cosmetics or perfumes. Save up to 20% on department store prices. Get this shopping out of the way first, so you can focus on the other shopping that needs to be done before departure. King Power’s inner-city location is on Soi Rangnam, (Victory Monument BTS station, with a free shuttle from Century Plaza). Find what you want,

Silom Village

order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Be sure to have your air ticket and passport. This is much more civilised than running through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi. Aromatherapy & Body Spa Have you ever seen a city so stocked with spas? Don’t leave without spoiling yourself a little. Bangkok has a great supply of unique Thai products for energising the body and soothing the soul. ■ Panpuri: Asian-inspired sensory purification. Pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products like the Solitude Papaya Body Polish – an explosion of Papaya Sandalwood and Honey. www.panpuri.com Paragon 1st Fl, King Power Duty Free, Central Chidlom 4th Fl, and Gaysorn, 7th Fl. ■ Thann: Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing. The new Mediterranean Blend is gorgeous. www.thann.info

Bargaining This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it down the street, and if they want to sell it, they better come off the price a little. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head. 104

shopping

Central Chidlom 4th Fl ■ Karmakamet: Long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. www.karmakamet.co.th Central World 2nd floor; Chatuchak Market, section 2, Soi 3 Home furnishings When you’re looking for more than white chiffon and terracotta pots, making your house feel like a home should be as easy as snapping your fingers. Lots of gorgeous things to carry or ship back home. Rugs: Most of the best stuff is imported, and is readily found all over the city. ■ Kashmir: stashes weaves you wouldn’t dare put on the floor, covered in gold thread and inset jewels. Expensive but totally worth it. Silom Village Trade Center, Silom Rd.; 252/2 Silom Rd; Montien Hotel, Surawongse Rd. Silk: Thailand is a world leader in silk products. Don’t bother buying silk on the street. The choices are limited, and very repetitive. ■ Jim Thompson: The most famous of all Thai silks, known worldwide. Quality products and quality locations all across town: Paragon 1st fl., King Power Duty Free; and Jim Thompson House Museum, Soi Kasemsan (across from MBK) and Surawong Rd. bangkok 101

Carpet Galleria

Value added tax

Department stores offer VAT services that allow you a precious 7% VAT refund upon leaving the country. You have to spend at least B2,000 a day to get the discount, but major purchases can add up in those stores. Have your passport and tickets with you! Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products.

Thai Silk

tip

Si DeWA L KS Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny t-shirts, small carved wooden products, paintings, and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the products on the sidewalk can be picked up in the malls, and markets, but where is the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain. Some easily accessible sidewalks include: ■ Silom Road: This well-known party place has some great shopping right off Saladaeng BTS station. Both sides of the street offer day and nighttime shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am. Just about everything, especially souvenir t-shirts unavailable anywhere else. ■ Central World: Right in the centre of the city, off the Chit Lom BTS station, and walking distance from Gaysorn, and the ever-crowded Siam shopping district. Stalls offer some uniquely crafted Thai products like coke can tuk-tuks and coconut shell purses. ■ Pratunam: Well known for its bulk deals, the sidewalk offers sunglasses, and all things casual. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists lapping up

The most important tip is this: if want it, buy it. Nothing is worse than regretting not getting that especially cute whatsit – you may not see it again. This city is great for compulsive shoppers.

■ Anita Silk: Another big player in the silk game. A family approach with their own product line and distinguishable patterns. www.anitasilk.com 294/4 Silom Rd, King Power Duty Free Antiques: Most real antiques here aren’t Thai. And if they are, then give your arm to buy it.They are expensive, with lots of Cambodian and Burmese offerings, as well as Chinese. Most boutiques or shops specialise in specific genres. ■ Sunny Antiques – Original Asian antiques from various periods. Chatuchak Mall ground level, Chatuchak market, section 1, Soi 2 ■ Cha Ma Antiques – Oriental period pieces with a range of bronze and metal works, carved stone, and dishware. Silom Rd Soi 15-17 ■ Dragon Antique Organization – How about a carved alabaster antique Buddha image? B360,000, going once, going twice..? Some really fantastic antiques in this shop for the serious collector. Silom Rd Soi 18 bangkok 101

shopping

bargains, find great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!). A ten-minute walk from Central World, it surrounds an intense indoor fashion market with everything available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item. ■ Sukhumvit:The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. Right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

Keep it real As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home, and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. 105

Accommodation

one room

In each new issue Bangkok 101 brings you the city’s very best overnight offerings by taking you inside its most extraordinary rooms in its most distinctive hotels, one room at a time.

SUKHOTHAI GARDEN SUITE Luxury is easy to find in Bangkok – the city teems with 5-star opulence. In this most frenetic of capitals, what is more rare are hotels that give guests a true sense of serenity, of seclusion even. This is what the Sukhothai succeeds at – understated elegance and civilized opulence. The hotel conjures up the grandeur of the ancient Sukhothai era, with reproductions of 13th century stupas lining the outer courtyards and stone reliefs on the walls of the 12 Garden Suites that surround the large central lily pond. They boast silk-panelled four-poster beds, soft spotlighting, two balconies each and a modern/ancient mix of metallic fabrics, teakwood, mirrors and ceramics. The very grand bathroom is more like a small parlour and one could easily hold court with a few friends from the deep recesses of the bathtub, where your own rubber ducky stands guard. If you do manage to get out of the tub, you may not have such an easy time getting out of the bed, with its enormous overstuffed feather pillows and ultra-soft duvet. In a country where excellent customer service is de rigueur, what is most notable about Sukhothai staff is just how happy everyone seems. You can’t fake consistent good humour like that; one gets the feeling that people genuinely like working there. The lavish buffet breakfast is more like an upscale Sunday brunch, representing the flavours of many different cuisines. WHERE The Sukhothai In surely one of the city’s most Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn elegant hotel properties, it’s a low-key Rd (map C4), 02-344-8888 luxury escape and a place to clear your MRT Lumphini head… for tourists and residents alike. www.sukhothaihotel.com รร. สุโขทัย ถ. สาทรใต PRICE 27,500++ (rack rate)

BOUTIQUE BANGKOK

Luxx Hotel

Tiny boutique hotel Luxx provides spare, modern rooms in an intriguing neighbourhood with access to the Sathorn business district, the Chao Phraya River, and the nighttime flash of Silom. Set in a converted shophouse, Luxx’s rooms are small but well-designed, with a minimalist style that leaves spaces looking clean and uncluttered. Bathrooms feature Japanese wooden soaking tubs, beds are comfy and cozy, free wi-fi runs throughout, and some rooms offer small kitchen corners and pantries. Rooms suffer from some street noise WHERE 6/11 and Luxx lacks a gym – but makes up for it with a multi-floor walk Decho Rd (map C4), up an unconditioned stairwell. Charming perks soothe away these 02-635-8800, BTS rough edges, however – guests can borrow DVDs downstairs Chong Nonsi, www. and enjoy them on flat-screen TVs, the service is friendly, and the staywithluxx.com American breakfast is enormous, tasty, and can be enjoyed in bed. รร. ลรรค ถ. เดโช สีลม 106

accommodation

bangkok 101

HOTELS ■ BANYAN TREE BANGKOK (map C4) 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumphini | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com

■ THE DUSIT THANI BANGKOK (map C4) 946 Rama IV Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-200-9000 | www.dusit.com

รร. ดุสติ ธานี ถ. พระราม 4

รร. บันยันทรี กรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต

■ THE IMPERIAL QUEEN’S PARK HOTEL (map D3) 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-261-9300 | www.imperialhotels.com

รร. คอนราด กรุงเทพ ถ. วิทยุ

■ METROPOLITAN BANGKOK (map C4) 27 South Sathorn Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Lumphini |02-625-3333 | www.metropolitan.como.bz

รร. โฟรซซี น่ั กรุงเทพ ถ. ราชดำริ

■ THE ORIENTAL HOTEL BANGKOK (map B4) 48 Oriental Avenue | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com

รร. แกรนด ไฮแอท เอราวัณ กรุงเทพ ถ. ราชดำริ

■ GRAND MERCURE PARK AVENUE BANGKOK (map D3) 30 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Rd | 02-261-0000 | www.mercure.com

hotels & serviced apartments

รร. อิมพิเรียลควีนสพารค สุขมุ วิท ซ. 22

SERVICED APARTMENTS ■ ADMIRAL SUITES 38/14 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Asok | 02-663-4000 | www.admiralsuites.com

รร. เมโทรโปลิแทน ถ. สาทรใต

■ THE ASCOTT SATHORN 187 South Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-676-6868 | www.the-ascott.com

รร. โอเรียนเต็ล ถ. เจริญนคร

■ BALLY’S STUDIO SUITES www.ballys-studio.com 172 Soi Sukhumvit 20 | BTS Asok | 02-261-3411-20

แอดไมรัล สวีท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 22

ดิ แอซค็อท สาทร ถ. สาทรใต

รร. แกรนด เมอรเคียว พารค อเวนิว กรุงเทพฯ สุขมุ วิท ซ. 22

■ THE PENINSULA BANGKOK (map B4) 333 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin |02-861-2888 | www.peninsula.com

รร. ฮอลิเดยอนิ น สีลม ถ. สีลม

■ THE SUKHOTHAI (map C4) 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Lumphini | 02-344-8888 | www.sukhothaihotel.com

■ CAPE HOUSE LANGSUAN 43 Soi Langsuan, Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-658-7444 | www. capehouse.com

รร. อินเตอรคอนติเนตัล กรุงเทพ ถ. เพลินจิต

■ THE WESTIN GRAND SUKHUMVIT HOTEL (map D4) 259 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-207-8000 | www.westin.com

■ CENTRE POINT www.centrepoint.com 60 Soi 1, Langsuan Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-657-2400

รร. เจดับบลิว แมริออท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 2

■ NOVOTEL SUVARNABHUMI AIRPORT HOTEL BANGKOK 999 Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel | 02-131-1111 | www.novotel.com

รร. แลนดมารค กรุงเทพ ถ. สุขมุ วิท

■ UNICO GRAND ASOKE 133/2 Sukhumvit Soi 21| BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-677-84844 | www.unicoproperty.co.th

รร.เลบัว แอท สเตท ทาวเวอร ถ. สีลม

■ BANGKOK MARRIOTT RESORT & SPA (map B4) 257 Charoen Nakhorn Rd | BTS Saphan Thaksin | 02-476-0022 | www.marriott.com

รร. เพนนินซูลา กรุงเทพฯ ถ.เจริญนคร

รร. สุโขทัย ถ. สาทรใต

รร. เดอะ เวสทิน แกรนด สุขมุ วิท ถ. สุขมุ วิท รร. โนโวเทลสุวรรณภูมิ

ยูนโิ ก แกรนด สุขมุ วิท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 21

BOUTIQUE HOTELS ■ DREAM HOTEL (map D3) 10 Sukhumvit Soi 15 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-254-8500 | www.dreambkk.com

อรุณเรสซิเดนท ถ. มหาราช

สยาม แอท สยาม ดีไซน โฮเทล ถ. พระราม 1

■ MAYFAIR MARRIOTT EXECUTIVE APARTMENT 60 Soi Lang Suan, Lumphini, Pathumwan |BTS Phloen Chit | 02- 6721234 www.mariott.com

รร. เซเวน สุขมุ วิท ซ. 31

■ NATURAL VILLE EXECUTIVE RESIDENCE 61 Lang Suan Rd, Lumphini | BTS Phloen Chit |02-250-7000 | www. naturalville.com

■ SIAM AT SIAM DESIGN HOTEL (map C3) 865 Rama 1 Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-217-3000 | www.siamatsiam.com

รร. ปทุมวันปริน๊ เซส ถ. พญาไท

รร. พระนครนอนเลน เทเวศน ซ. 1

■ LUXX HOTEL 6/11 Decho Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-635-8800 | www.staywithluxx.com

รร. ลรรค ถ. เดโช สีลม

■ ROYAL ORCHID SHERATON HOTEL (map B4) 2 Charoen Krung Rd, Soi 30 (Captain Bush Lane) | BTS Saphan Thaksin | 02-266-0123 | www.sheraton.com/royalorchid

■ SHANGHAI INN (map B3) 479-481 Yaowaraj Rd | 02-221-2121 | www.shanghai-inn.com

■ SHANGRI-LA HOTEL BANGKOK (map B4) 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Rd | BTS Saphan Thaksin | 02-236-7777 | www.shangri-la.com

■ MA DU ZI (map D3) 9/1 Ratchadapisek | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-258-8518 | www.maduzihotel.com

■ SHERATON GRANDE SUKHUMVIT (map C3) 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 | www.luxurycollection.com/bangkok

■ IBRIK RESORT IN THE CITY 235/16 South Sathorn Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-211-3470 | www.ibrikresort.com

■ SOFITEL CENTARA GRAND BANGKOK (map C-D1) 1695 Phaholyothin Rd | BTS Chatuchak, MRT Phaholyothin | 02-5411234 | www.centralhotelsresorts.com

■ BANGKOK BOUTIQUE HOTEL 241 Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit or Petchaburi | 02-2612850 | www.bangkokboutiquehotel.com

รร. เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขมุ วิท ถ. สุขมุ วิท

รร. โซฟเทล เซนทารา แกรนด ถ. พหลโยธิน

■ SOFITEL SILOM BANGKOK (map C4) 188 Silom Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi, MRT Silom | 02-238-1991 | www.sofitel.com

รร. โซฟเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

รร. เซีย่ งไฮอนิ น ถ. เยาวราช

การเดน โกรฟ สวีท บูทคี เซอรวสิ เรสซิเดนท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 16

แกรนด เพรสซิเดนท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 11

จัสมิน เอกเซ็กคูทฟี สวีท สุขมุ วิท ซ.23

เมยแฟร แมริออท เอกเซกคูทฟี อพารทเมนท ซ.หลังสวน

เนเชอรัล วิลล เอกเซกคูทฟี เรสซิเดนท ถ.หลังสวน

■ OAKWOOD CITY RESIDENCE 291 Soi Naradhivas Rajanagarindra 24 | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-6720200 | www.oakwood.com

โอควูด ซิต้ี เรสซิเดนท ซ.นราธิวาราชนครินทร 24

■ PRESIDENT PARK SERVICE APARTMENT 95 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit| 02-661-1000 | www.presidentpark.com

เพรสซิเดนท พารค เซอรวสิ อพารทเมนท สุขมุ วิท ซ.24

■ PRESIDENT SOLITAIRE Sukhumvit Soi 11| BTS Nana | 02-255-7200 | www.presidentsolitaire.com

เพรสซิเดนท โซลิแทร สุขมุ วิท ซ. 11

ไอบริค รีสอรท อิน เดอะ ซิต้ี ถ. สาทรใต

■ ROYAL PRESIDENT SERVICED APARTMENT 43 Sukhumvit Soi 15|02 -253 9451 | BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | www.royalpresident.com

รร. บางกอก บูตกิ กรุงเทพ สุขมุ วิท ซ. 21

■ SIRI SATHORN 27 Soi Saladaeng 1 |BTS Sala Daeng |02-66-2345 | www.sirisathorn.com

■ THE SIAM HERITAGE 115/1 Surawong Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Samyan | 02-353-6101 www. thesiamheritage.com

รร. สยามเฮอรรเิ ทจ ถ. สุรวงศ

■ SWISSOTEL NAI LERT PARK BANGKOK (map C3) 2 Wireless Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-253-0123 | www.nailertpark. swissotel.com

■ THE KEY BANGKOK 19-19/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-255-5825-9 | www.thekeybangkok.com

bangkok 101

เอ็มโพเรียม สวีท ถ. สุมขุมวิท

■ REMBRANDT TOWERS SERVICED APARTMENT 22 Sukhumvit Soi 20 | BTS Asok| 02-261-5900 | www.towers. rembrandtbkk.com

■ S15 SUKHUMVIT HOTEL 217 Sukhumvit 15 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-651-2000 | www. s15hotel.com

รร. ปารคนายเลิศ ถ. วิทยุ

เฟรเซอร เพลส ถ.หลังสวน

รร. มาดูซี สุขมุ วิท ซ. 24

■ SWISSOTEL LE CONCORDE HOTEL BANGKOK (map D2) 202 Ratchadapisek Rd | MRT Huai Kwang | 02-694-2222 | www.bangkok-leconcorde.swissotel.com

รร. สวิสโซเทล เลอร คอนคอร ถ.รัชดาภิเษก

เซ็นเตอร พอทต วิทยุ ถ. วิทยุ

■ JASMINE EXECUTIVE SUITES 2 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-204-5888, 02-2045885 | www.jasminecity.com

รร. แพนแปซิฟก ถ. พระราม 4

รร. แชงกรี-ลา ถ.เจริญกรุง

เซ็นเตอร พอยท ทองหลอ ซ. ทองหลอ

100 Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-659-5000

รร. เลอ ฟนกิ ซ สุขมุ วิท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 11

■ ARUN RESIDENCE (map A3) 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Rd | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com

รร. รอยัล ออคิด เชอราตัน เจริญกรุง ซ. 30

เซ็นเตอร พอยท สุขมุ วิท สุขทุ วิท ซ. 10

Soi Thong Lo (Sukhumvit 55) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-365-8300

■ GRAND PRESIDENT 14, 16 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana| 02-651-1200| www.garndpresident.com

รร. โนโวเทล สยามสแควร ถ. พระราม 1

รร. เรมแบรนดท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 18

เซ็นเตอร พอยท สีลม เจริญกรุง ซ. 50

39 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | BTS Nana | 02-653-1783

รร. ยูจเี นีย สุขมุ วิท ซ. 31

■ LE FENIX SUKHUMVIT (map D3) 3/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-305-4000 | www.lefenixsukhumvit.com

เซ็นเตอร พอยท ศาลาแดง ศาลาแดง ซ. 1

1552/2 Charoenkrung Soi 50| BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-630-6345

■ GARDEN GROVE SUITES BOUTIQUE SERVICED RESIDENCE 51 Sukhumvit Soi 16 |BTS Asok| 02- 663-3120 | www.ggrove.com

รร. แกรนด มิลเลนเนียม สุขมุ วิท ถ. สุขมุ วิท

■ PATHUMWAN PRINCESS HOTEL (map C3) 444 Phayathai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-3700 | www.pprincess.com

เซ็นเตอร พอยท เพชรบุรี ถ. เพชรบุรี

5 Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-630-6345

รร. เดอะ เดวิส กรุงเทพฯ สุขมุ วิท ซ. 24

■ THE EUGENIA (map D4) 267 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-259-9017 | www. theeugenia.com

■ PAN PACIFIC BANGKOK (map B4) 952 Rama IV Rd | BTS Sala Daeng MRT Silom | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com/bangkok

เซ็นเตอร พอยท หลังสวน ซ. หลังสวน

6 Soi 15, Petchburi Rd | BTS Ratchatewi | 02-653-6690-8

■ EMPORIUM SUITES 622 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-664-9999 | www.emporiumsuites.com

รร. มิลเลนเนียม ฮิลตัน กรุงเทพ ถ. เจริญกรุง

■ NOVOTEL SIAM SQUARE BANGKOK (map C3) 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6, Rama I Rd |BTS Siam | 02-209-8888 | www.novotel.com

เคปเฮาส หลังสวน ซ.หลังสวน

■ FRASER PLACE 55 LangSuan Rd | 02-250-6666| www.fraserhospitality.com

■ THE DAVIS BANGKOK (map D4) 88 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-8000 | www.davisbangkok.net

■ GRANDE MILLENNIUM SUKHUMVIT BANGKOK (map D3) 30 Sukhumvit 21 (Asoke) Rd | BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-2044000 | www.millenniumhotels.com

บอลลี่ สตูดโิ อ สวีท ถ. สีลม

รร. ดรีม สุขมุ วิท ซ. 15

รร. แมริออท รีสอรท แอนด สปา กรุงเทพ ถ. เจริญนคร

■ MILLENNIUM HILTON BANGKOK (map B4) 123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Thaksin | 02-442-2000 | www.bangkok.hilton.com

บอลลี่ สตูดโิ อ สวีท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 20

10 Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-266-6465-72

รร. เอส ฟฟทีน สุขมุ วิท ซ. 15

รร. เดอะคีย สุขมุ วิท ซ. 19

food & drinks

แรมแบรนท ทาวเวอร เซอรวสิ อพารทเมนท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 20

รอยัล เพรสซิเดนท เซอรวสิ อพารทเมนท สุขมุ วิท ซ.15 สิริ สาทร ศาลาแดง ซ. 1

■ SOMERSET www.somerset.com Somerset Lakepoint | 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-663-1234

โซเมอรเซ็ท เลคพอยท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 16

Somerset Park Suan Plu | 39 Soi Suanplu | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Lumphini | 02-679-4444

โซเมอรเซ็ท ปารค สวนพลู ถ. สาทรใต

Somerset Suwan Park View | 9 Soi Ton Son | BTS Chit Lom | 02-6587979

โซเมอรเซ็ท สุวรรณ ปารควิว ซ. ตนสน ถ. เพลินจิต

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H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.110 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

Thai-massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-ﬁtting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in ﬂexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

SiGnATURE TREATmEnT

Heavenly Spa

We’re not sure what could be more decadent than a blissful massage with a highly trained therapist… other than a blissful massage with two highly trained therapists. “Four-hand massages” are a mini-trend in the Bangkok spa scene, but it’s difficult to find a very good one – this type of rubdown demands specialized training to ensure a close synchronization of rhythm and pressure between the two masseuses. At the trim new Heavenly Spa, the therapists have all learned the technique, and the intensive training shows – Heavenly Spa’s therapists carefully coordinate long Swedish strokes, detailed thumb-pressure work, and joint manipulation with a well-matched rhythm. Therapists also trade sides to ensure symmetry, and the result is a deeply soothing and luxurious experience that packs double the relaxation in half the time. As the masseuses have to follow a choreographed “map” of the body, you may worry that you won’t get attention on those computer-tortured shoulders. Fortunately, the therapists leave some time at the end for more focused work on problem areas they’ve discovered on their circuit of your body – make a special request of the receptionist ahead of time to ensure you get a more localized treatment at the end of your rubdown.

เฮฟเวนลี่ สปา โซเมอรเซ็ท ปารค สวนพลู ถ. สาทรใต

108

health & wellness

WHERE 5 Fl, Somerset Park Suan Plu, South Sathorn Rd (map C4) BTS Sala Daeng mRT Lumphini, 02-679-4444 ext. 5 OPEn daily 10am-10pm

bangkok 101

A Boutique Spa & Salon in the heart of Bangkok Awaken your senses Sharpen your focus

Hapa spa provides five-star services and treatments which therapists and hair stylists are highly experienced up to 15 years .

Create your own personal spa package! Choose from 7 rejuvenating treatments: 1. Infrared Thermal Sauna 40 mins 2. Organic Body Scrub 30 mins 3. Thai Herbal Body Wrap & Head Massage 40 mins 4. Hydrotherapy or Jacuzzi Aroma Milk Bath 40 mins 5. Aromatherapy Body Massage 60 mins 6. Foot Aroma Massage 30 mins 7. Shiatsu Facial Massage 30 mins 7 Treatments value at 7,200B 2,990B/4.30hrs 5 Treatments value at 5,700B 2,590B/~3.20hrs 3 Treatments value at 4,000B 1,690B/~2.10hrs or 2 Treatments or Aroma Massage 1,200B/~2hrs Addition: Hair Spa or Manicure & Pedicure 380Bup, Wax 290Bup Colour, Perm, Rebounding 890Bup (Loreal/Shiseido)

(นานา) BTS Nana ถ. สุขุมวิท Sukhumvit

Road

Soi 5

Soi 7

Soi 9

Hapa Spa & Beauty Salon

Le Fenix Hotel Q Bar

Bus stop

Ambassador Hotel Bed Supperclub

Soi 11

รร. แอมบาสซาเดอร

Zenith Hotel

ร.พ.บำรงุราษฎร Mahajak Apartment

ถ.เพชรบรุี

Bumrungrad Hospital

New Petchaburi Road

Breakfast: 6 a m - 1 0 a m Lunch: 1 1 a m - 2 p m Dinner: 6 p m - 1 a m Corkage Charge: 3 0 0 + + Beverage: Wi ne / Fu l l B a r Co c kt a i l / D ra u g ht s B e e r Other: Ci g a r Smoke: O u t d o o r Te rra ce 9 – 1 2 s e at Internet: Fre e Wi re l e s s I nte rn e t

Between Sukhumvit soi 3 & 11 Cash Payment (Visa/Amex plus 7% Tax) Reservation is required 02-253-9860, 02-651-0966 www.hapaspa.com email: info@hapaspa.com

: 2 9 0 ++ B re a kfa s t : 1 9 0 ++ Tha i : 2 9 0 ++ Ja p a ne s e / We s te rn Dinner : 2 9 0 ++ Tha i : 3 9 0 ++ Ja p a ne s e / We s te rn Recommended menu: 1 6 5 ++ M 3 S a l a d B a r Lunc h 1 1 a m- 2 p m Buffet Set Menu: Lunch

SPECIAL PROMOTION

10% off on food when Reserve 1 Table up 2 person 15% off on food when Reserve 1 Table up 4 person

U n i co G ran d e A s o ke 133/2 Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongton Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 Tel: 662 6778484 Fax: 662 6778485, info@unicoproper t y.co.th, w w w.unicoproper t y.co.th

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

Flore Pleno

spas lEElA THAi HERBAl SPA (map C4) 43 Soi Narathiwat 7, Sathorn Rd l 02-679-3511~2 | BTS Chong Nonsi | www.leelathaispa.com | daily 10am9pm For convenience, it’s hard to beat Leela – located a few blocks from the Chong Nonsi BTS, this modern city spa is a snap to find. Popular with Thais and visitors from Hong Kong, Leela offers wonderful treatments that are also good value – their spa packages are particularly wellpriced. Try the excellent Leela Thai Aroma Massage, which combines the long, smooth strokes of Swedish technique with firmer Thai pressure moves. The Aroma Vie Facial leaves clients refreshed and glowing – the cooling mask is a perfect way to beat the Bangkok heat. While the minimalist décor may not fully muffle surrounding street noise, in the hands of Leela’s rigorously trained technician, the only thing to wake you from your reverie will likely be the sound of your own snoring. ลีลาไท นราธิวาส ซ. 7 ถ. สาทร

leela Thai Herbal Spa

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FlORE PlEnO (map D3) Fenix Tower, 2nd Fl, Sukhumvit 31 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-2621 | www.florepleno.com | Wed-Mon noon– 9pm | $$ With a Latin name and postVictorian décor, Flore Pleno stands out in a city overflowing with highend spas. Bright, airy ambiance and sophisticated branding aside, several unique treatments make Flore Pleno worth a visit.The first is the availability of skin care products from the California-based Pevonia Botanica. It’s easy to poke fun at celebrityendorsed regimens containing things like herbal botox and caviar “from the highest quality sturgeon in the Caspian Sea.” But once this stuff is on your face your inner critic will be quickly silenced. Flore Pleno’s own line of spa treatments includes the Tropical Wine Spa Delight body package, which includes a massage, an exfoliating scrub, body wrap with real grapes and a hot bath spiked with an entire carafe of red wine (B3,000, 120 minutes). One caveat: Flore Pleno is located on the third floor of a shopping mall and lacks an in-spa toilet, so be sure to pee before you start! ฟลอเร พลีโน ชั้น 2 อาคารฟนิกซ สุขุมวิท ซ. 31 health & wellness

SPA ATHÉnÉE (map C3) Plaza Athénée Hotel | Wireless Rd | BTS Ploenchit | 02-650-8800 | daily 10am-10pm | $$$$ At the Spa Athénée, communication is an art form – before a massage, clients fill out a health questionnaire about any pre-existing conditions, preferred massage styles and spots for special emphasis or avoidance. Smooth talking continues in the spa session, where carefully trained therapists will tailor your treatment to your liking and, if you ask, will display their thorough knowledge of treatment products, techniques, and beauty and health tips. The services are excellent – try the Athenee Retreat, a ginger-infused treatment involving a cooling scrub, a soak in a ginger bath, and an energizing massage. While the treatments are sophisticated enough to lure the spa buff, the spa’s dedication to client comfort and clear communication will put even the shyest spa newbie at blissful ease. สปาแอทธินี รร. พลาซาแอทธินี ถ. วิทยุ

Spa Athénée

bangkok 101

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

medical tourism

magine an ultramodern hospital where you can book same-day appointments with internationally accredited physicians. Picture waiting areas staffed with smiling orderlies dispensing free cold towels and drinking water. Think you’re dreaming? You’re not. Welcome to Bangkok, where top-tier hospitals offer state-of-the-art services for a fraction of what you would pay in Western Europe, Australia or the USA. Thailand is now Asia’s undisputed leader in the rapidly growing medical tourism industry. Many Thai-born physicians who have trained and practised abroad for years are now returning home to cash in on the country’s healthcare boom. The people fuelling the boom hail mainly from developed countries where waiting times for major procedures have become unacceptably long. Others are fleeing from nations where rising healthcare costs make it a bargain to travel halfway across the world for treatment. Popular procedures run the gamut from face lifts, breast enhancements and liposuction to organ transplants, multi-valve heart bypasses, back surgeries and hip replacements. If you’re only in town for a short time, don’t despair. Complete medical check-up packages, dental procedures and minimally invasive beauty procedures like botox injections and laser skin resurfacing can be scheduled with virtually no lead time. If you’re considering undergoing a more complicated surgical procedure requiring recovery time, it would behove you to see a doctor while you’re in town to determine if your physical condition makes you a suitable candidate for the procedure. If all goes well, you can plan to return for your surgery at a later date. Pre-approval largely eliminates the risk faced by

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those who travel long distances only to find they are medically ineligible.

maintains a comprehensive English language website detailing clinical specialities, services and prices. Some CAVEAT EMPTOR even offer discounts to international We leave it up to our readers to pick a patients. hospital and a physician based on their All medical procedures carry some own careful research. risks. The more litigious “Thailand is now among us should take While by no means the undisputed an exhaustive list, into account that leader in Asia’s each of the hospitals complications resulting listed on the following from procedures rapidly growing page has given special medical tourism performed in Thailand attention to training might not be covered industry” staff and providing by insurance, and facilities specifically geared toward compensation via malpractice lawsuits an international clientele. Each also may not be adequate in certain cases.

FEATURED medical treatment

Acupuncture

The thought of voluntarily having needles jabbed into your skin may raise a few hairs and visions of Hellraiser. Nevertheless, acupuncture is a tried and tested regimen that has been a staple of traditional Chinese medicine for over than 2000 years. In ancient Chinese medical teachings, the body consists of two, inseparable, opposing forces, the Yin and the Yang.The Yin is the passive side and the Yang is the active side, both of which must be kept in equal balance in order to best maintain your health; diseases arise when the body is not in a balanced state leading to a blockage to a blocked flow of Qi, or vital energy, throughout the body. In acupuncture, licensed practitioners place long, slim, steel needles into specific points throughout the body, depending on the ailment, to unblock the flow of Qi. As esoteric as “unblocking your Qi” may sound, many have found that acupuncture brings direct relief for a wide range of ailments, from kidney stones to hypertension. The practice has even been credited with helping smokers kick the habit and relieving chronic pain by regulating the nervous system and triggering the release of painkilling endorphins into the brain. While pain relief via human pin cushion may not be for everyone, either because of the heebie-jeebies or health restrictions (people suffering from blood diseases can’t undergo it), for many it can be miraculous. One word to the wise: visit a fully licensed acupuncture specialist like the ones listed below, who maintain the strictest standards of quality and cleanliness. n Acupuncture Clinic Vibhavadi Hospital | 51/3 Ngamwongwan | 02-941-2800 |www.vibhavadi.com n St Louis Hospital | 215 South Sathorn | Chinese Traditional Medicine | 02-675-5000 ext. 20198,20199 n Balavi Natural Health Centre | 191/3 Soi Ranong 1 Rama VI | 02-615-8822 n Kitjawet Clinic | 54 Chan Rd (off Narathiwat Rd.) | 02-2873259 | www.thaiacupuncture.com

health & wellness

bangkok 101

wellness centres

Tria

As marvellous as Bangkok may be there are certain downsides to it that will start to wear on you. The heat and pollution will wear your body down and the breakneck speed may be too much for some to handle. Fear not as there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. TRiA inTEGRATiVE WEllnESS (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02-660-2600 | daily 7am-10pm | www.triaintegrativewellness.com Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-theart equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you. ศูนยสขุ ภาพองครวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ. ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปยะเวท) HYDROHEAlTH (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | daily 10am-8pm | www.hydrohealth.co.th The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand it has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids yourself of all the unwanted toxins bangkok 101

Hydrohealth

in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems.The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available. ไฮโดรเฮลท เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ. เพลินจิต S mEDicAl SPA (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building, Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | daily 10am-10pm | www.smedspa.com The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available. เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ. วิทยุ RASAYAnA RETREAT (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | daily 9am-8pm | www.rasayanaretreat.com They are specialists in deepcleansing programs and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely wor th stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible. รัสยานา รีทรีทต ซ. พรอมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39 health & wellness

YOGA & PilATES THE PilATES STUDiO (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. ไพเลท สตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซา เพลินจิต YOGA ElEmEnTS (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเมนท 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม) Yoga Elements

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Sports Fair tex

sports

Takraw

SPECTATOR SPORTS MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing or Muay Thai is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadiums. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past Kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safety-conscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three fi veminute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF and the blows are hard hitting and real. 114

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.33) on any given Sunday and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums. The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Head to any park in the city around 5pm-6pm, and you’ll be able to spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly following the instructions of an enthusiastic coach to blaring disco dance songs. The spor ts

THAI BOXING VENUES Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan lum night bazaar | mRt lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights tue & Fri from 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pm-midnight | b1,000 b1,500 b2,000)

สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4 ติดกับสวนลุมไนท บาซาร

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen nok avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights mon, Wed, thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | b1,000 b1,500 b2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Chatuchak Park. Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in! bangkok 101

ACTIVE SPORTS BADMINTON Racquet Club (map D4) Sukhumvit 49/9 | 02-714-7200 Yen Akat Court (map C4) Soi Yen Akat | 02-249-6935-6 A family favourite in Thailand is badminton which is played by both young and old. A big reason for it being popular is the relative ease of setting up a game. All you need is a racquet, a shuttlecock, someone to watch out for cars, and you’re ready to go. It’s often played in neighbourhoods, in front of houses, whether hitting over fences or just simply on the street. Many housing estates will have courts available for rent or even free of charge. Some centrally located courts include the youth centre in Lumphini Park, Racquet Club and Yen Akat Court. BOWLING A favourite pastime among Thais is Bowling. Most shopping malls have top-of-the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lo, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK.

Bangkok. A 3-day tour takes in villages and Chao Phraya River islands (US$200); while another travels from Bangkok to Ayutthaya on 2 to 3-day sojourns combining cycling with travelling and living on a converted rice barge (US$180 - US$215). The best is a leisurely ride around historic Bangkok. For half a day, you’ll ride through Rattanakosin along quiet back lanes and through leafy parks (Sundays, 15kms, US$20) – an imaginative and relaxing way to see the city’s biggest sights. All trips are with a local guide and at a relaxed pace on flat easy roads. Bookings require a minimum of two. Customised trips are available. ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Rachadapisek Rd, Esplanade 4th Fl | MRT Thailand Cultural Center | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more like a nightclub on ice. Popular among youngsters, its 682 square metres of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even Grasshopper Adventures

CYCLING GRASSHOPPER ADVENTURES www.grasshopperadventures.com | Sun Bkk | daily Chao Phraya | Sat & Thur barge This down-to-earth company runs inexpensive cycling tours around Southeast Asia as well as some unique cycling tours in and around bangkok 101

spor ts

Iyengar Yoga Studio

hockey. Lessons are B700-1500 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Center (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with Thai ace Paradorn Srichaphan, who became the first Asian player to achieve a top ten ranking just a couple of years ago, bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels will offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people a little, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 115

Courses&Ser vices

courses Benjarong

COOKING CLASSES BENJARONG ROYAL THAI CUISINE RESTAURANT The Dusit Thani | 946 Rama IV Rd | 02200-9000 ext. 2699 | www.dusit.com Want to learn how to cook like a top Thai chef at one of the most elegant restaurants in town? Here’s your chance: The Benjarong Royal Thai Restaurant at the luxurious Dusit Thani Hotel is holding half-day cooking classes every day from 8am to 12pm, Monday through Saturday. The course is run by Benjarong’s head chef himself, Surasak Kongsawat, who has racked up dozens of prestigious culinary awards and medals over his 18year career in the kitchen. He is also an expert fruit and vegetable carver and you will have the option of learning how to carve fruit along with preparing three exceptional Thai dishes, or choose to learn a fourth recipe if carving doesn’t interest you. Both options include commemorative photos and course completion certificates. Courses are B3,000++pp or B4,300++ if you’d like your very own Dusit Cookbook as well. The price includes a 5-course set dinner at the restaurant. เบญจรงค เบญจรงค โรงแรมดุสติ ธานี ถ. พระราม 4 BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | B3,296 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market 116

with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท ถ. สาทรใต (รถไฟฟาสุรศักดิ)์

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am6:30pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your co-students will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30-hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reﬂexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, open-sided salas for just B360/hour. โรงเรียนวัดโพธิ์ไทย 2 ถ.สนามชัย CHIVA-SOM ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekkamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02-711-6900 | www. chivasomacademy.com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. The high but justified prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses available in reﬂexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อะคาเดมี อาคารโมเดิรนทาวน 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63 เอกมัย

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of ﬂowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well. Perfect for a serious, but short stint into Buddhist meditation. สำนักกองกลางวิปสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หนาพระลาน bangkok 101

Friends of the Asian Elephant (FAE)

making merit Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

hat would this country be without its most defining symbol – the elephant? Throughout the long history of Thailand, there has always been great reverence shown for these gentle giants, until more recently. With their habitats increasingly destroyed, constant poaching, and technological advancements rendering their heavy lifting abilities obsolete, our pachyderm pals have been diminished in numbers and relegated to no more than a sideshow. Now, this national symbol can often be found dragged along car-riddled streets by touts; many of them fall victim to traffic accidents. Sad fate for an animal which once carried kings and fought valiantly in battle. With their numbers dwindling and spiraling terrifyingly close to endangered status, efforts have been made to help treat injured elephants and campaign against the killing and exporting of this important animal. As a child, Soraida Salwala’s family was driving in the countryside when she saw an elephant barely hanging on to life on the side of the road. It had been hit by a truck.The elephant was beyond help and its owner reluctantly put the creature out of its misery. Fast forward four decades and now Soraida has formed the Friends of the Elephant Foundation (FAE) which campaigns for elephant preservation, aids mahouts, and has created the world’s first elephant hospital to help sustain and improve the livelihood of these noble beasts. It has also implemented a registration and micro-chipping programme to keep track of each animal and its health and also to prevent it from being abused and used in illegal logging. If you would like to assist the FAE in its efforts to maintain the status and livelihood of this nationally significant creature, please visit their website for more information. 687/2 Ram - Indra Rd Soi 32,Tharaeng, Bangkhen | 02-509-1200 | fae@elephant-soraida.com | www.elephants-soraida.com/ bangkok 101

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survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words. Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement). The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then. Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you? I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

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sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná kho˘ thôt khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

UsEFUL phOnE nUMBERs

EMBassiEs & cOnsULaTEs

Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669

wESTERN CouNTRiES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-2680, 02-344-6300 | www. austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place, 15th Fl, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/bangkok Delegation for the Commission of European Communities Kiam Gwan Bldg II, 19th Fl, 140/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-2600 | www. deltha.cec.eu.int New Zealand M Thai Tower, 14th Fl, All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu Rd | 02-254-2530 | www.nzembassy. com/thailand u.S.A. 120-122 Witthayu Rd | 02205-4000; www.usa.or.th/embassy united Kingdom 1031 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-8333 | www.britishemb.or.th ASiAN CouNTRiES Cambodia 185 Ratchadamri Rd | 02254-6630, 02-253-7967 | RECBKK@ hotmail.com China 57 Ratchadaphisek Rd, Din Daeng | 02-245-7043/4 | www. chinaembassy.or.th india 46 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 02-2580300/5 | www.indiaemb.or.th indonesia 600-602 Phetchaburi Rd | 02-252-3135/40 Japan 1674 New Petchaburi Rd | 02-252-6151/9 | http://embjp-th.org (Consular Section) 02-260-8502 Korea 23 Thiam Ruammit Rd, Ratchadaphisek | 02-247-7537/40 | korembas@ksc.th.com Laos 520, 502/1-3 Wang Thongland Rd | 02-539-6667 | www.bkklaoembassy.com (Visa Section)193 South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3964 Malaysia 33-35 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-2190/5 Myanmar 132 North Sathorn Rd | 02-234-0278 | mebkk@asianet.co.th Philippines 760 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-259-0139/40 | www.philembassybangkok.net Singapore 129 South Sathorn Rd | 02-286-2111 Vietnam 83/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-2515836

LoST CREDiT CARDS CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am-8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) Diners Club 02-238-3660 (24hours) MEDiCAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHoNE SERViCES Bangkok Directory inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 international Long Distance 100 overseas Subscribers Call 001 TouRiSM oFFiCES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-2829773, 02-250-5500 | daily 8:30am4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www.bangkoktourist.com iMMiGRATioN DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am4pm

bangkok 101

reference

contacts TRanspORT PLANE Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Airport Call Centre 02-132-1888 Bangkok Airways Reservations 99 Moo 14, Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd, Lat Yao, Chatuchak | 02-265-5555 | www. bangkokair.com orient Thai Airlines Reservations 138/70 17th Floor Jewellery Center, Bldg, Nares Rd | 02-229-4260 | www. orient-thai.com Thai Airways intâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;l Reservations 89 Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd | 02-356-1111 | www.thaiair.com TRAiN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 SKYTRAiN/SuBwAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-6122444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BuS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mo Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai)

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getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options. ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con equipped taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the public taxi queue at the street level outside the terminal, an additional B50 is added to the metered fare.

vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B8-20. Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). RAIL

TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whir of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but fares always have to be bargained before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers. MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their orange 120

SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B100) or three days (B280) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. For more information: www.bts.co.th/en SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line reference

stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B14 to B36. For more information: www.bangkokmetro.co.th/ RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.34) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offers a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 20 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance. Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3. CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B8 to B18. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. bangkok 101