Bangkok 101 - February 2010 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

february 2010 100 baht

Pak Khlong Talat Photography by Gavin Gough

t h r o u g h pt ahke kehy leosn og f t ha li as t k i n g d o m

1 on 1: boyd kosiyabong Metrobeat: La monita taqueria Very Thai: male grooming Daytrip: lopburi Over the Border: penang Making Merit: Mahamek Home for Boys

februar y 2010

HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

publisher’s

letter

february 2010

This month we come over as smooth as Barry White, with an issue designed to get you puckered up in time for Valentine’s Day. We’ve got Romantic Meals at the city’s best restaurants and hotels tied up, while our In the Neighbourhood section explains how Bangkokian’s uniquely do San Valentino, from getting hitched in an auspicious part of town to prostrating themselves at lucky-for-love shrines. Meanwhile, our accommodation section spotlights three unashamedly seductive boutique hotels. Keeping loosely with the romantic theme, our Very Thai excerpt take a looks at something Bangkok’s metrosexual bachelors will be taking very seriously this Feb: Male Grooming. And our chat is with Boyd Kosiyabong, a singer songwriter famous for his weepy lovesongs. Last but not least, this month’s photo feature is serendipitously full of those Valentine’s boygives-girl favourites: pretty posies. The work of Bangkok Photo School-helmer Gavin Gough, Pak Khlong Talad captures the quiet energy and floral vibrancy of the city’s open-all-hours fresh market. A traveller not a lover? In addition to the torrent of heart mushy stuff, we bring you the best of Bangkok’s food, spas, bars and miscellaneous entertainment, including where you can see in the year of the Tiger (Chinese New Year falls Feb 14 this year), a review of new Mexican La Monita Taqueria, how you can do right by helping out a local orphanage in Making Merit, and much, much more. We’re also down in Penang admiring it’s pretty colonial-style mansions and what-not, and in nearby Lopburi province dodging miscreant monkeys as we scope out its famous temples. Lastly, we splash around on the southern island of Koh Lipe, where translucent blue waters and the occasional company of whale sharks makes for unforgettable diving. ters So, this month we hope to see you with both k 101 ca d, Bangko an what they se ia b n u th hands full, a dog-eared copy of Bangkok 101 in one ent and r more er Independ rs who yearn fo s. It brings togeth , hand, a bunch of red roses in the other. However lle k rs e o te v o a ri b tr e w ents, d guid to savvy city resid The result you choose to spend Valentine’s, be it with a soppy hty, date f ig o e o w h in . W find ho’s tators candlelit dinner for two or by watching Notting Hill travel ritative W commen an autho ers and cultural f monthly ff the o d ri b y h h p o on your lonesome, Bangkok 101 wishes you luck in t ra n d g e n g a to pho intelli u on pact and ine that takes yo employs the love and your travels here and beyond. is a com z a 1 g 0

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Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

contributors Gavin Gough

A freelance travel photographer who moved to Thailand in 2008, Gavin Gough’s work has been featured in publications including National Geographic, Vogue, Vanity Fair, The New York Times, The Guardian and many more. Gavin also co-runs the popular Bangkok Photo School and leads photo tours to some of the world’s most photogenic locations including, in 2010, Burma, Bhutan, Laos and North India’s Kumbh Mela festival. His work and tour schedule can be found at www.gavingough.com.

Philip CornwelSmith

Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness: Thailand and international magazines.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published this year by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Author Brian Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s new wave of textiles and furniture in his recent coffee table volume Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and current affairs for such publications as New York Times, Art AsiaPacific and Forbes. A former resident of New York City and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

Tom Mintier

From covering the Vietnam War as an army photographer to heading up CNN bureaus in London and Bangkok, Tom Mintier is one of the most recognised and respected media figures in Thailand today. An Emmy award-winning television news journalist, Tom covered many events live for CNN, including the 1989 student uprising in Tiananmen Square and the fall of the Berlin Wall. Currently a consultant at AMATA Corp and professor at Thammasat University in Bangkok, Tom continues to train local journalists.

Steven Pettifor

British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia.com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Graphic Director Yuthtaya Sangnak Art Designer Narong Srisaiya Editorial Assistant Piyakwan Mettaprasert Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Alisara Chirapongse, Rikke Bjerge Johansen, Ashley Simcox, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,TAT Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Simon Hughes Account Executives Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Jurairat Wannaprom Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Distribution Coordinator Tunwa Pankaew Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com Printed by Allied Printers T: 02-240-3700 © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2009. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents

february 2010

snapshots

8 10 11 12 14 15 16 17

101 picks 1 on 1: cheewin “boyd” kosiyabong events calendar metro beat history religion customs very thai: male grooming

sightseeing 18 19 20 22 24 26 28 30 31 33 34 35 36 37 38 41 42 44

orientation riverside route101: rattanakosin route101: chinatown route101: sukhumvit route 101: silom&sathorn route101: pathumwan siam and pratunam historic buildings temples kids in the city & shrines musuems the great outdoors in the neighbourhood daytrip: lopburi day tripping upcountry festivals upcountry escape: koh lipe over the border: penang

arts 46 47 48 56 57 58 59

contemporary art exhibitions photo feature: pak khlong talat performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening

44 48

on the cover: Pink roses for sale at Pak Khlong Talat, Bangkok’s open-all-hours fresh market.

table of

contents

february 2010

food & drinks 60 61 62 63 64 65 68 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

dining in bangkok meal deal thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants chic bangkok dim-sum brunching tea late dining sweet treats all you can eat wine

108

nightlife 78

82 84 86 88 89 90 92 94 96

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars boho bars jazz clubs live music nightlife areas pub crawling

115

sports

112 spectator sports 113 active sports

shopping

98 99 101 102 104 105

unique boutique stuff bangkok design mall crawl markets sidewalks

courses & services 114 115

accommodation

business

106 boutique bangkok

116 business 117 real estate

health & wellness 108 109 110 111

cooking, meditation & thai massage courses making merit: mahamek home for boys

body & beauty spas wellness centres medical tourism

reference 106

118 survival thai 119 contacts 120 getting around

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101 picks

Before dashing off to a tropical island or the mountains, scratch beneath the city’s gritty surface to discover gems that’ll keep you here longer. We’ve compiled our Bangkok favourites here.

one night in bangkok

shopping

thai style

food heaven

open air

■ Chatuchak A huge, sprawling village of a market, selling everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.104).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.115).

■ Beautiful Brunches L a ze a r o u n d w i t h friends, newspapers for those great late breakfasts (p. 75).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a big zoo & Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous greener y (p.30).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day. Party all night. Never grow old. It’s fun to be a Bangkokian (pp.82-97).

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar A pleasant evening market with arts, crafts and textiles. And a massive beer garden (p.104).

■ Thai Massage A cracking good time – though not for the faint hearted (p.108).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Get thee to a food court (p.71).

■ On the River Take an express boat up to Nonthaburi or explore the canal communities of Thonburi (p.19).

■ Cabarets Wow, she is beautiful. Such a graceful dancer. And what a figure! Eh… what do you mean “he”? (p.85).

■ Siam Square All the young dudes head to this cradle of cool for the latest flicks and threads (p.102).

■ Thai Cooking Classes Learn to pound a proper paste like a pro (p.114).

■ Riverside Dining The Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome backdrop.And there are plenty of good restaurant options (p.21).

■ Cycling Tour Maybe not an obvious choice, but these tours are surprisingly popular (p.113).

■ High Attitude Bars Slinky cocktails at eight miles high. Not cheap, but well worth it (p.86).

■ Patpong A thin strip in the CBD jam-packed with market stalls and, er, go-go bars (p.105).

■ Thai Boxing The brutal, quintessentially Thai form of kickboxing (p.112).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of special offers to eat at some of the city’s best restaurants (p.61).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the museum park of Muang Boran, and see Thailand in miniature! (p.38).

■ Dining Cruises Stuff your face as you wind your way along the Chao Phraya (p.61).

■ Panthip Plaza The ultimate computer-geek mecca. If you can’t find it here you just haven’t looked hard enough (p.102).

■ TCDC Cool, creative learning space for Thai designers (p.57).

■ Street Food Pull up a plastic stool and get ready to point and shoot (p.64).

■ Lumpini Park A huge green space in the heart of the city. Perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the ponds (p.35).

■ Carnivalesque Get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11 (p.95).

■ Paragon & CentralWorld Two of the swishest mega-malls you’re ever likely to encounter. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be the third floor (p.102).

■ Jim Thompson House & Silk Shop This former spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade then disappeared. Nice house though (p.32).

■ Affordable Gourmet Food If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, Bangkok needn’t break the bank (p.65).

■ Flower Market Close your eyes and inhale deeply. 24-hour marigold madness. (p.104)

■ Theatre TraditionalThai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.56)

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bangkok 101

Snapshots

1 on 1

Cheewin “Boyd” Kosiyabong

Boyd Kosiyabong is one of Thailand’s best loved songwriters, not to mention the co-founder of Bakery Music, the Thai record label at the vanguard of the breakout indie sounds of the 1990s. During a short break from pushing dials on the studio mixing desk, Tom Mintier spoke to him – a devout Catholic and family man now running the label LOVEiS – about the Thai music industry and his many influences.

How has Thai music changed since you started out? I think Thai pop music now follows world trends even more. Twenty years ago we had more uniqueness, because our ears weren’t as open to foreign sounds as they are today. Right now we’re following Korean pop music a lot. Is there a unique Thai sound? I think it’s hard now because the world is so small now. Technology has made everyone feel closer, so we all feed off each other. Styles of pop music, styles of food, styles of living – all are converging. 20 years ago most Thai artists picked US artists to emulate. Is that still true? No it’s not. The kids today emulate Korean and Japanese pop bands and singers. 10

Some artists only write music for a market. Do you? I have to do that too sometimes when I write jingles, but I separate it from my full albums. Jingles are how I make money, writing music is how I satisfy my passion.

from unsigned artists, it depends. I also listen to songs by His Majesty a lot, I love his compositions.

Why do so few international live acts come to Bangkok? Simple economics – Bangkok is not a good cash-making machine for foreign acts.

What about restaurants? I like to eat barbeque pork noodles in front of Soi Thonglor. I’ve been going there almost every week since I was a kid.

What bands are you listening to write now? My own bands (laughs). No, I listen a lot to records from the Hitman Record’s repertoire. It’s a small independent jazz label based in Thailand.

If you had to write a love song about Bangkok would it be upbeat or pessimistic? Upbeat! There are a lot of great things in Bangkok, so it would have to be positive.

Where do you head for a night on the town? I go to live concerts not clubs.

Who are your favourite Thai artists of all time? I love The Innocent, The Impossibles and Assanee & Vasan. What do you listen to when driving around Bangkok? Sometimes I listen to jazz, sometimes my own music, sometimes demos snapshots

bangkok 101

SS501

Thu 4: DJ Chuckie Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

KIS Fun Fair

Fri 5: In BED with Space, Ibiza Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Wed 10: Mahler’s Ninth Symphony

Bull’s Head, Sukhumvit Soi 33/1| 02-259-4444 | www.greatbritishpub. com | B1,500

See Metrobeat ‘Classical’

See Metrobeat ‘Comedy’

Sun 14: Chinese New Year

Thu 18: DJ Claude VonStroke

Yaowarat Road | 1672 | http://thai. tourismthailand.org

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Sat 20 – Sun 21: This Is It: The Concert

Mon 22: Sidsel Strom Featuring Magnus Hjorth Trio

IMPACT Arena Muang Thong Thani | 02262-3456 | www. thaiticketmajor.com |B600 – 2,500

Aksra Theatre, King Power Soi Rangnam | 02-2623456 | www.thaiticketmajor. com | B 1,500 – 2,000 Hitman Jazz presents this female jazz singersongwriter from Denmark with band.

See Metrobeat ‘Pop & Rock’ Sun 28: Fortune Forecasting for the Year of the Tiger Jim Thompson Art Centre, Soi Kasemsan |02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse. com| B500

See Metrobeat ‘Events’ bangkok 101

808, RCA Block C, Rama 9 Road | 02-203-1043 | www.808bangkok.com Liquid drum and bass beats from the legendary UK DJ.

Fri 12 – Sat 13: Punchline Comedy Show

Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadapisek Rd. | 02262-3456 | w ww.thaiticketmajor.com | B200-B1,000

See Metrobeat ‘Festivals’

Fri 5: DJ Fabio

february calender

Sat 6: KIS International School Annual Fun Fair

999/124 Kesinee ville Estate, Pracha-Utit Road, Huay Kwang | 2pm-9pm | www.kis.ac.th | adults B100, children B60 (under twos free) Ferris wheel, pony rides, bouncy castles… enjoy all the fun of the fair at this annual event popular with Bangkok families.

Sat 13: SS501’s 1st Asian Tour

IMPACT Arena Muang Thong Thani | 02833-5555 | www. totalreservation.com | B800 – 4,500

DJ Ramus

See Metrobeat ‘Fairs’

See Metrobeat ‘Pop & Rock’

Sun 14:Valentine’s day Various venues

See Metrobeat ‘Events’

Fri 19: DJ Rasmus Faber Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

QSNCC | 02-2505500 | http://thai. tourismthailand.org | free

QSNCC | 02-2146175-8 | www.ttaa.or.th

Indoor Stadium Hua Mark Ramkamheang Rd. | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B1,000 – 3,000

Singer Kim Hyun Joong – actor from the hit drama Boys Over Flowers – leads the band in its first bkk show.

Thu 18 – Sun 21: Amazing I-San Fair 2010

Thu 25 – Sun 28: 7th Thai International Travel Fair 2010

Sat 6: 2010 FTIsland Asia Tour Live in Bangkok

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Fri 26 – Tue Mar 2: 45th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair 2010

Impact Arena Muang Thong Thani | 02-5045050 | www.bangkokgemsfair. com | free

Fri 26: Heather Small

British Club, Suriwongse Rd.| 02-234-0247| www.britishclubbangkok. org | B2,000

See Metrobeat ‘Pop & Rock’

See Metrobeat ‘Fairs’

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Trade Fairs Performance Live Music Shopping Festivals/Events Food & Drink Charity Sport Nightlife

Snapshots

metro beat

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings, by Howard Richardson.

nightlife

rock & pop

Sukhumvit Soi 11 rocks to the sound of several international DJs this month, starting on Feb 5 with London’s progressive house DJs Jem K and Scottie, appearing with live singer Ushera, courtesy of Space club in Ibiza. On Feb 11, it’s DJ Chuckie, best known for ‘Let the Bass Kick in Miami Bitch’, and then on Feb 18, San Francisco’s techhouse DJ and producer DJ Claude VonStroke spins a mix including his latest ‘Fabric #46’. Signing off on Feb 4, House DJ, producer and jazz pianist Rasmus Faber brings beats from his new release Where We Belong. All at Bed Supperclub (02-651-3537).

Korean pop music (K-Pop) is hot in Bangkok, so the appearance of TV soap star Lee Honggi and his band FTIsland should see a busy night at the Indoor Stadium Huamark on Feb 6. You could call these guys prolific: they’ve put out 11 albums in two years. Tickets (B1,000-B3,500) are available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www. thaiticketmajor.com). Another Michael Jackson-themed junket hits the boards, in this case with Sony and GMM Grammy recording artists such as Tata Young, Christina Arguilar, Two Poptorn and Gam the Star, who will sing and dance through tunes like ‘Billie Jean’, ‘Thriller’ and ‘Smooth Criminal’. This Is It: The Concert is at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) on Feb 20 and 21. Tickets are B600B2,500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www. thaiticketmajor.com). On Feb 26, UK pop singer Heather Small plays a one-off Bangkok show in a festival-like atmosphere on the lawns of British Club (02-234-0247). Small fronted the band M People before hitting US TV stardom when her song ‘Proud’ was chosen as the theme tune for the Oprah Winfrey Show. Doors open 7pm. Tickets are B2,000 (including two drinks) or B5,000 for VIPs, who get to meet the singer and enjoy free flow drinks and a buffet before the show, which starts at 8.30pm. Small also plays Centara Grand Resort, Pattaya on Feb 27 and KC Resort, Koh Samui on Mar 2.

fairs Running from Feb 18-21, the Amazing I-San Fair 2010 showcases one of Thailand’s most rewarding, yet least promoted areas, Isan, in the northeast of the country. And then, from Feb 25-28, the same organisers hold the 7th Thai International Travel Fair 2010, with over 1,000 booths detailing domestic and international travel packages and products. Both shows are at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (02-2293000). See www.tourismthailand.org and www.ttaa.or.th for more details. It should be bling heaven at the 45th Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair 2010, a display of contemporary and traditional jewellery and precious and semi-precious stones at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) from Feb 26-Mar 2. Entry B100. More details at www.bangkokgemsfair.com.

food

comedy The Punchline Comedy Show at the Bull’s Head (02 259 4444) on Feb 12 and 13 has three stand-up comics this month. The UK’s John Moloney – a regular headliner at The Comedy Store and Jongleurs – is an Edinburgh Festival veteran, Winner of the Best Live Performer Award for two years running at the London Comedy Festival, and was nominated for ‘Best Live Stand-Up’ at the British Comedy Awards. Also appearing are Canadian Pete Johansson, who headlines at New York’s Caroline’s Comedy Club and has appeared on several US TV shows, and Stewart Francis, a writer on The Tonight Show with Jay Leno. Show starts 9pm, tickets are B1,500. 12

Three Michelin Star Chef Juan Amador prepares lunch and dinner as guest chef at Le Normandie, in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (02659-9000) from Feb 14-20. He will recreate some of the modern Catalan-Basque-French dishes that have made his restaurant Amador successful. The Sukhothai Hotel (02-344-8888) has Austrian Chef Armin Leitgeb in its kitchens from February 4-6. The Chef de Cuisine at Singapore’s award-winning French restaurant Les Amis will prepare a wine dinner set menu at La Scala on February 4 (B5,500++) and a set menu (B3,900++) with pairing wines option (B4,900++) on February 5-6.

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bangkok 101

Food & drink

festivals The drums, dragons and fireworks will rumble in Chinatown to welcome the Chinese New Year on February 14. The local community around Yaowarat Road will celebrate the Year of the Tiger with a feast of Chinese opera, fashion shows and top notch Taechew and Cantonese food. Restaurants will be serving roses with their meals for Valentine’s Day on Feb 14. Lovers looking for the perfect romantic spot should head to Bangkok 101’s dedicated blurbs on Valentine’s restaurants and meal deals on pages 71 and 74. Todd Tongdee’s Rhythm of the Earth World Festival at Central World Bangkok (02-640-7000) from Feb 3-7 should be a feast of global rhythms, including bands from Cuba, Kenya, Taiwan and the US, plus various Thai outfits and sounds ranging from reggae to jazz to hilltribe music. There’s also a world BBQ with food from 12 countries. Free entry. Check out www. toddeastwest.com for full programme.

classic There’s a duo of classical performances at the Thailand Cultural Centre (02-247-0028) on Feb 10, featuring the Thailand premiere of Mahler’s Ninth Symphony, performed by the Siam Philharmonic Orchestra, conducted by Somtow Sucharitkul. Noticing that the opening theme is “note-for-note identical” to a Thai classical piece, Waves Against the Shore, Somtow invited the fusion orchestra Fong Naam, directed by Bruce Gaston, to perform it as an introduction to the night. Tickets are B200-B1,000.

events If you’re into exorcism, aura cleansing and tarot, the Jim Thompson Art Centre (02-216-7368, www. jimthompsonhouse.com) is holding Fortune Forecasting for the Year of the Tiger every Saturday and Sunday until Feb 28. Readings will be held from 1pm-5pm by Khun Nat, described as the ‘Angel of the Seers’ and a ‘Clairvoyance Psychic Medium’. Admission is B500 per session. Remember, they saw you coming. bangkok 101

La Monita Taqueria

San Franciscan Billy Bautista brings a little of his home city to Bangkok with the type of Mexican diner found all over California. The five tables, bench seating and windowside bar could have been knocked up in a school woodwork class; the food is served in little plastic baskets. It’s anti-chic; an eating (rather than dining) experience, where the warm orange interior sets a cosy, familial atmosphere for some really tasty food. The menu has burritos, nachos, wings and a choice of Mexi or Cali tacos – the Cali WHERE 888/26 a bit fancier, with beans and Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit guacamole – filled with fish, Rd, 02-650-9581BTS beef, chicken, or shrimp (one Phloen Chit OPEN 11:30 option infused with tequila). – 10pm (last kitchen And there’s al pastor, spicy orders)PRICE $-$$ roast pork marinated in chilli and pineapple. The quesadilla – good to share – is a large grilled tortilla sandwich of melted cheese, whole beans, salsa, guacamole, sour cream and choice of meat. The guacamole is smoky and another nice touch is slightly fermented jalapenos on the side. Look too for the market-choice daily special. Drinks are Latin-style mojitos, beers, margaritas and caipirinha, but corkage is free if you want to take something different. Outside of Thai, finding good food at a decent price in Bangkok isn’t easy. La Monita fits the bill: a neighbourhood diner due to become a destination because of its very rarity.

อาคารมหาทุนพลาซ่า ถ.เพลินจิต

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history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lots of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the Sathorn/Silom

districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas and leafy public parks. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. These gradually-expanding public transpor tation networks, with their

bright, snaking trains carrying wideeyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped relieve the city’s notorious traffic congestion and pollution, but given this City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ but instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It is no surprise that The Guinness Book of Records registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

religion

Did you know?

h e majorit y of enlightened (mural paintThai Buddhist Thais (over 90%) ings in Thai temples often monks once a re T h e r av ad a depict tales of his former dyed their B udd his t s , w i t h t he lives, called jataka), so most own robes rest of the population Thais focus on attaining with colour split between Muslims, a better rebirth through extracted Christians, Sikhs and “making merit” – donating from turmeric and the Hindus. Older animist to the poor or a temple, or beliefs also remain, prac- heartwood and handing out rice to monks leaves from tised alongside a verduring their morning almsjackfruit trees; gathering processions. sion of the Buddhism now most that originated with the Nearly all Thai Buddhist robes come teachings of Siddhartha men will become monks, chemically Gautama, the Buddha, if only for a short time. dyed. in India around the 6th Women cannot be ordained century BC. but some become nuns, alTheravada Buddhism is based on though their numbers remain low. the concepts of dukkha (suffering), Contrary to Western perceptions of anicca (impermanence and tran- Buddhism as a religion above the fray sience), and anatta (impermanence of everyday life, monks and nuns have of the self) – suffering arises through launched HIV-education and drugattachment to impermanent condi- prevention campaigns, orphanages, tions. By working to extinguish at- and other social programmes. More tachment through meditation and controversially, a number of monks proper conduct, Buddhist practi- have begun advocating that Buddhism tioners can eventually attain spiri- should be enshrined in the new contual enlightenment (nirvana), freeing stitution as Thailand’s state religion. them from cycles of rebirth. A soul For more information on Buddhism is reborn according to its progress and meditation courses, check out (or lack of it) towards nirvana, with the World Fellowship of Buddhists at animals forming lower strata and www.wfb-hq.org and the international monks occupying the top. The Bud- homepage of Vipassana meditation dha himself took 550 lives to become centres at www.dhamma.org.

bangkok 101

snapshots

Spirit houses Hand in hand with their Buddhist faith, Thais still hold many animist beliefs. Spirit worship is widely practised and spirit houses can be seen on the corner of most residential and commercial properties. By providing the spirits (good and evil) with shelter, it’s hoped that they will protect houses or buildings from any harm or mischief. To make sure the spirits are kept happy, offerings of incense, fruit, flowers or rice are made every day. 15

Snapshots

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king with deep reverence for the monarchy. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family.Therefore, stand quietly when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and other public places. Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 16

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting.Thais don’t usually shake hands but rather wai (a prayerlike gesture with hands clasped in front of the face).This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows respect and humility.The higher the hands are raised, the more respect is being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (coolhearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ don’t step on the threshold ■ don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ be considerate when taking photographs ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

very thai Philip Cornwel-Smith

Male Grooming

Looks matter to a man

Photos by John Goss & Philip Cornwel-Smith

ip-gloss glistening, eyelashes subtly kohled, foundation coating a moisturised complexion, the blow-dried young man flashes one trimmed armpit as he grabs a pole on the SkyTrain. His girlfriend wears less make up than he does. With a new breed of jao sam-ang (young dandies) treating the SkyTrain as a promenade, the Bangkok Post proclaimed in 2003: “the City of Angels appears to be well on the way to becoming a Mecca for metrosexuals.” Coined in the West for a new breed of sensitive, well-groomed men, this buzzword seems confined here to label-clad straights who use cosmetics, but tell surveys they’re “manly metrosexuals” who must look good for work. In fact, Thai men have long prized graceful appearance and manners, as temple murals amply testify. Thais adopt trends so eagerly that pundits miss moments when the Kingdom’s ahead of the curve. The Post claimed “men with long hair use plastic hairbands thanks to David Beckham”, yet since the 1980s Thai men had used headbands to hitch back the centre-parted bob, wire clips to restrain their bangs and arched combs to gather hair at the back, geisha-style. Several cultural traits make men keen to groom. The model of Thai manhood isn’t sweaty, musclebound Rambo, but refined, soft-spoken Rama. Make-up in likay folk opera must emphasise the prettiness of the phra ek (leading man), which the largely female fans demand. Similarly, youths are happy to primp like Korean boy bands in order to please their girlfriend. Preening also has practical origins. Heat and dust necessitate frequent showers and skin protection. Talc holds both sweat and sun at bay, keeping skin pale, dry and cool. Some men now use anti-UV moisturiser topped by powder or foundation. When Bangkok’s first smart, non-hotel spa opened in 2001, half its customers were men. Again, the leap is little, given eons of pampering muscles through massage, purging pores with plai-infused steam, and toning the skin with turmeric and herbs. Ultimately, though, looking handsome is not about brand-name conditioner, but social conditioning. Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt each month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic. Snap up a copy at any good book shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith bangkok 101

snapshots

Sightseeing

orientation

greater bangkok Cha

Thewet & Dusit

ph r a

Ko Rattanakosin Ch

hray

Thonburi

Chinatown

Siam Square & Pratunam

Sukhumvit Chaophraya

– steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is Modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan (p.28) is

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries and have different, tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.20) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th Century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly

where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting ‘burbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked streets in fridge-cool comfort! When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along smelly Klong Saen Saeb (p.120) and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.29), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly (p.18). In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13 : Phra Athit Bkk’s young bohemians pensively sip coffee in the cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street. There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

N10

N15 :Thewet Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

d. tR ra

N9 : Tha Chang Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

Na Phra Lan Rd.

Rd. arat Mah

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Ratchada

mnoen K

Kalayang Matri Rd.

lang Rd.

N5 : Ratchawongse Bangkok’s Chinatown! Taoist temples, mazy backstreets, mottled shophouses and no end of Sino sights, noises Rd. Muangand smells make it a must. Bamrung

Royal Grand Palace

d. ng R i Wa Tha Wat Po

Chinatown

Pak Klong Talad

Pahurat

Kl Phr ao a P Br ok id ge

N1 : Oriental The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

Millenium Hilton

Wongwian Ya

ksin R

N6 : Memorial Bridge/ Saphan Pood Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

tc ha wo n

N6 Wat Arun

N2 : Sri Phaya On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

Charoen Krung Rd.

ai Rd. Sanam Ch

N15

N13

Amulet Market

Wat Mahatat

N8 :Tha Tien Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.31) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

Ratc hada mno Sana en N m ai Rd Luan . g

N10 : Wang Lang Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.56) are all in the vicinity.

ra ge Ph id et Br o mdla So K n Pi

101

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on.The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which follows a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables see www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

bangkok 101

o Ta Cha Phra Som det

Saphan Taksin Accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to Mandarin Oriental, Pennisula and Millenium Hilton hotels. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

Penninsula

Wongwian Yai

Krung Thonburi Rd. KrungThonburi

N1 Taks

in Br

idg

e SapanTaksin

sightseeing

Sightseeing

route 101

Whether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here. Wat Phra Kaew

Rattanakosin

elcome to Rattanakosin Island: historical heart land of modern Bang kok, spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Surrounded by man-made klongs (canals) and the Chao Phraya River, and immune to high-rise developments, its charms include decaying old shophouses (as opposed to 50-storey monsters) and the highest density of sacred must-sees in Bangkok. Whether you’re here for a few hours, a few days or more, every itinerary should include some time here.

sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

oa d

ath ai R

oad noe nN ok R

dam

c ha Rat kh

Luk Luang Road

Road

oad

ad Ro ak Wo ra

g Road Ti Thon

Bamrung Muang Road

hai R

Muang Ro

Mahac

Bamrung

Charoen Krung Road

NORTH

The Deck

Phra Phi Phit Road

M Ro

Phra Buddha Yodfa Monument

recommended sites: n Khao San Road Backpackers and all their material attachments. n Wat Mahathat A centre of Buddhist teaching hemmed in by a jostling amulet market. n The Giant Swing Men reached hazardous heights here during annual ceremonies... until it was banned. n Phra Athit Road Bohemian cafes, a tranquil park and an old fort converge upon one tree-shaded street.

sightseeing

Saphan Phut Pier

ka ph

Tha Thien Pier Tha Rachinee Pier

1. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) 2. Wat Po (Wat Phra Chetuphon) 3. Wat Phra Kaew 4. National Museum

PAHURAT

a aw

S on

Dinso

mno

hada Ratc

Tanao Ro

en N

ai Ro ad

hat R oad

hra T Na P

Wat Po

Thipsamai

Sao Ching Cha (Giant Swing)

Atsadang Road Rachini Road

Roa

oad ang R Road Rachini

hai

ng i Wa

Tha

ai Road

Sanam Ch

The Grand Palace

at T

Mah

fs b!Sjw Dibp!Qisbz

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Democracy Monument

Road

nR me Su

Klang

PHRA NAKHON

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn)

ra Ph

Atsad

Sana Luanm g

noen

Na Phra Lan Road

Tha Thien Pier

isu

ge id Br

Tha Chang Food Market

adam

Wat Mahathat

ac ha thi p

Ratch

Phrannok Pier

Tha Chang Pier

Kao San Ro

Tha Chang Pier

BANGLAMPHU

Thammasat University

Tha Maharat Pier

khon Road

n Pi

National Museum

Tha Phra Chan Pier

Fuang Na

ra Ph Thonburi Railway Pier

Dinso Road

oad

Tanao Rd

ao Kl

R sat Ka

n Pi

Tha Phra Athit Pier

oa d

Saphan Phra Pin Klao Pier

Sa ms en R

Khin Lom Chom Saphan

t isu W

tP de

bangkok 101

101

Democracy Monument

Wat Sam Phraya Pier

First stop is Wat Arun (p.31), also known as the Temple of Dawn. Actually pre-dating the Rattanakosin era, it’s a cornerstone of Thailand’s history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin then, once at the river, jump on an express boat (ask someone to point out which boat is an express). As you face the river, you want to be going right, upriver. Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its spire aglow, is easy to spot. After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross the river back to Tha Tien pier. Then make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.32). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles de-knotted at the famous Thai massage school. Temple initiation over, head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.31) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.31). Snub the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to pace, reverentially, around this gilded fairytale of a royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.30). Hungry for more Thai history? Then exit and head north across the ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.36). Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably find it is early evening.The rest of your evening is up to you – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some pad thai with the backpackers along Khao San Road. Or hit a cocktail bar like Amorosa, with its picture-postcard views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun.

Dining pit-stops: Use these restaurants to recharge en route. n The Deck Open-air restaurant with stunning views of river-straddling Wat Arun. 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com n Khin Lom Chom Saphan Feast on Thai seafood while eyeballing river reflections of Rama VIII Bridge. 11/6 Soi Samsen 3 | 02-628-8382 n Thipsamai Famous pad thai restaurant. 313 Mahachai Rd | www.thipsamai.com n Tha Chang Food Market A lipsmacking local market unfurls here each day. 21

Sightseeing

route 101

cHINATOWN

hinatown or Yaowarat, as it is known locally, is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, dramatic Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. The centre of Bangkok’s Chinese community actually used to be a couple of clicks west, but when King Rama V decided to build his palace on Rattanakosin Island the neighbourhood decamped en masse to its current location.

It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in the Chinese pharmacy windows. Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive at night when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. It’s quite a sight. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and look over to your right to take in Bangkok’s impressive main train station. This Renaissance-style edifice dates back to the early 20th century when King Rama V commissioned a bunch of Italian architects and engineers to give the capital a dash of European élan. Head straight on from Exit 1 and cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap ThaiChina Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, sightseeing

Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.32) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex. Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/ impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1 Rd). This wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than hair clips and rubber sandals on offer now. The lane’s not wide to start with, but fill it with food carts, dawdling shoppers and delivery boys on Vespas loaded with Hello Kitty schoolbags and you feel like a human pinball. Great fun! Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a bangkok 101

ban

n Thian Fah Foundation This atmospheric complex incorporates a hospital and another, more elegant shrine dedicated to Kuan Yim.

over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on, there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’re there at breakfast time, head on in for a seething, groaning wet-market with everything from huge sacks of tea and dried mushrooms to plastic tubs of writhing catfish. If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neon-lit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Rd will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery to give your feet a well-earned rest.

Rd hin a

Th ai-C hab tap Mit

Phadung Dao Rd

Trongsawat Rd

Yaowaphanit Rd

11 Rd Soi Yaowarat

Mittraphan Rd

Phlap Pla Chai Rd Plaeng Nam Rd

Soi Charoen Krung 16 Rd

Soi Yaowarat 6 Rd

Mungkorn Rd

Soi Yaowarat 8 Rd

at 15 Rd

Mungkorn Rd

Soi Charoen Krung 14 Rd

Ratchawong Rd

Soi Yaowar

Ratchawong Rd

1 Rd

n Hua Seng Hong 371-373 Yaowarat Rd | 02-222-0635 | 9am-midnight Look out for the bright yellow sign, then squeeze past the crabs, ducks and shark fins into an air-conditioned dining room for tasty, reasonably priced Chinese fare.

n Canton House Chaloem Buri Intersection | 02-2213335 | 11am-10pm Cheap, tasty and air-conditioned, Canton House has a great selection of dim-sum from B15 a pop.

Eat n T&K Seafood 49-52 Soi Phaduang, Yaowarat Rd | 02-2234519 | 4:30pm-2am Watch the crowds roll by and dishes being hoisted down on fishing lines from the upstairs kitchen.

th ut

Chaloem Buri Intersection

P ha

ar oe

Soi W anit

Sam

phe

bangkok 101

n Wat Mangkorn Kamalawat Fight your way through the vendors in the entranceway and head straight to the temple at the back for a truly memorable experience.

Information

Old market

Soi Wanit 1

Sbudibxpoh !Qjfs

Yaowarat Rd

Song Wat Rd

China Town Scala restaurant

Yaowarat Rd

Hua Lamphong Railway Station

ase

Rama IV Rd t2

Shangarila restaurant

Wat Kunmatay

Mai market

ara ow

Wat Bamphen

Kwang Tung Shrine

Rd i Ya

Grand China Princess Hotel

Charoen Krung

gK un

HUA LAMPHONG

Suapa Rd

choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonialstyle warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.104) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross back over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross

101

See n San Chao Poy Sien Okay, it looks like a souvenir shop, but it’s actually a funky little shrine. Pop upstairs to the weird plastic cave-room to see the statue of the Chinese god Kuan Yim.

Lan

Wat Ko

Song Wat Rd

at R ng W

Wat Sampheng

1. Wat Traimit Witthayaram 2. San Chao Poy Sien shrine Auphairat 3. Wat Thian Fah Foundation 4. bamrung Canton House 5. Wat Mangkorn Kamalawat 6. Hua Seng Hong 7. T&K Seafood

Chao Phraya River sightseeing

Sightseeing Benjakitti Park

route 101

Quenn Sirikit Convention Center

Sukhumvit

ike Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner, Sukhumvit Road is a futuristic thriller – a flawed, frenetic, yet often compelling urban streetscape. Towering hotels, condominiums and offices sprawl east across its skyline, while down below a global Who’s Who races anonymously among them. Along its main stretch cars and c oncrete assail the senses, while down its many flanking sois calmer, more serene atmospheres unfold. Once a suburban backwater dominated by a stretch of rice fields, Sukhumvit has evolved into the residential destination of choice for aspirational Thais and the expats who work with them. As a result, it has developed its own village culture – marked by twee cafés, achingly hip boutiques and a veritable nation of fantastical day spas. In other words, when temple and museum-weariness 24

set in, Sukhumvit could very well offer the perfect antidote. Only helping matters is the Skytrain, which swooshes like a slo-mo bullet above it. Get a quick jump on the day and loosen up with a morning stroll around the lake in Benjakitti Park. Located adjacent to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, which hosts world class expos weekly (see calendar p.11), it is easily accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. Next head to the Siam Society for a quick shot of culture. On Asok Road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross), it’s an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures and exhibitions. And out back is a stunning Northern Lanna teak house/ ethnological museum. After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain sightseeing

and off to Phrom Phong station. Here you will find the cultural epicentre of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, Emporium. While you can easily get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, world-class designers and up-and-coming Thai labels here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) on the sixth floor which continually stages thoughtprovoking, and usually free, exhibitions. Even better yet, TCDC is a short escalator ride away from the food floor, a United Nations of culinary possibilities. If your back is aching from scrutinising all those exhibits, why not take a stretch among the modern sculptures and trim greenery of adjoining Benjasiri Park? Shopaholics can probe Thong Lo further, staking out the neighbourhood bangkok 101

ban

ong L o)

(Soi T h

oi 1

Coffee Beans by Dao

vit 6

Prakanong)

3 (So i Ek a

mai)

Soi S u

Soi Sukhumvit 71 (Soi

khum

Agalico 51

Soi 24

THONG LO

adapis

Ratch

vit

EKAMAI

Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai)

ek Rd

1 Benjakitti Park

Nang Len

Soi

Soi 22

Soi 20

PHROM PHONG

Benjasiri Park

Thailand Tobacco Monopoly

khum vit 55

Soi Sukh um

Rasayana Retreat Novotel Lotus

Soi 18

SUKHUMVIT

4 Uomasa

Shades of Retro

Soi S u

SUKHUMVIT Soi 14

Crêpes and Co

Soi 31

ASOKE

Soi 33

Soi 23

Westin

Ekamai

Divana Divine

vit 39 (S oi Prom

-mitr

phong)

Soi Prom

QUEEN SIRIKIT NATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE

EAT Coffee Bean by Dao | Casa Viva Apartment, Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-713-2504~8 The cheesecakes at this local hi-so cake stop are out of this world. n Crêpes & Co | 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | 02-653-3990 Nestled in a quiet soi, in a palm-fronded garden, this French/Meditterean cafe serves an excellent all-day brunch. n Agalico | 20 Sukhumvit 51 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-662-5857 An all-white tea lounge situated in a lush garden. Only open weekends.Take a ride down Sukhumvit Soi 51, and take the first right. n Uomasa | Nihomura, 87 Thong Lor Soi 13 | 02-392-6575 Found in the wooden Nihomura compound, Uomasa is particularly recommended for sashimi lovers. n

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for designer clothing, jewellery, furniture and books. Or, should you be toying with matrimony, wedding garb. Hop on over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice of neon Tokyo and watch as beautiful people and their even prettier cars roll in. Once dinnertime rolls around check out “Japan Town” in Thong Lor Soi 13, where a clutch of great Japanese restaurants like Uomasa lurk.

Crystal Spa

bangkok 101

Q Bar

Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, the night time is definitely the right time. Drinking, dining, dancing, debauchery... it’s all here. For a go on a shisha pipe, Sukhumvit Soi 3 is Bangkok’s very own Little Arabia. Those looking to make a very Thai night of it (whisky sodas, a Thai live band) should head to one of the jumping joints along Thong Lor or Ekkamai. Sukhumvit Soi 11 – home to veterans like Bed Supperclub and Q Bar (p.84) – will satisfy your international clubbing needs. But for the best of Sukhumvit’s beau monde haunts its got to be Long Table (p.86): a cocktail at this 25th floor design bar, with its movers and shakers and electric panoramas, is not easily forgotten. sightseeing

2,Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | BTS Thong Lor | 081-824-8011 | 1pmmidnight People craving a drink and some laid-back conversation need look no further than antique store/ nostalgia café Shades of Retro. n Cheap Charlie’s | Sukhumvit Soi 11 Bangkok’s most bizarre bar (p.89). n Nest | Sukhumvit Soi 11 Found opposite Q Bar, this sleek yet cosy rooftop bar won’t ruffle your feathers. n Nang Len | Ekkamai Soi 5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-711-6565 The name means “to sit around” inThai. However you’d probably win the lottery before you find a seat here on weekends. SPA n Divana Divine Spa | 103 Thong

Sightseeing

route 101

Silom & Sathorn

heSathorn/Silomareapersonifies Bangkok’s split personality. The white collar, bustling crux of Bangkok’s business world by day, this whirlwind area houses a grab bag of cultural and religious sites. But when night falls this area hustles, gyrates, and rears a very different head. Home to a large chunk of Bangkok’s corporate world, this Silom and Sathorn spills over with yuppies and bigwigs during the day, kicking it up a gear after office hours, with a jiving scene of clubs, expat pubs, some very shady characters, and one oh-so-notorious little lane. Niu’s on Silom

Set the alarm and beat the sun to the punch; there’s much to be done today. Take the MRT to the Sam Yan stop. Walk towards Silom and take a venomous venture into the Snake Farm (see p.35) and watch wranglers extract poison from serpents. If you dare you can even pet a cobra or kiss a python! If you’re still alive, continue on for a nice stroll in Lumphini Park, Bangkok’s largest public open area. If it’s the weekend take a taxi into the past with former P.M. Kukrit’s Heritage House (see p.30). By now you’re probably famished, so go back down Convent Road, a treeshaded soi lined with Irish pubs, Mexican, Japanese, Italian and various other farangorientated eating establishments. After filling up follow the throngs of office workers into Soi Lalai Sup (“the soi that melts your assets”), squeezing through the chaos, hunting down bargains on clothes, gifts and other knick-knack paddywhacks. Further down Silom on Thanon Pan, you will come across Wat Mahamariamman. Referred to by locals as Wat Kaek, it is the most famous Hindu temple in Bangkok and rituals are performed here daily at noon. Right across the street is Kathmandu Gallery (see p.49) featuring great photo exhibits, and also Silom Village which is a nice spot to pick up some handicrafts. sightseeing

Just before sunset hits, head up to the top floor of the Banyan Tree and ascend the aptly titled Moon Bar at Vertigo (see p.87). Two hundred metres above the pavement, this bar’s main attraction is the completely unobstructed 360° Bangkok panorama (other rooftop bars in the area include State Tower’s equally spectacular Sky Bar or, if raining, the indoors V9 at the Sofitel Silom). Do not stray too far over the railing as the only thing to break your fall here is the concrete sidewalk. Once you’ve soaked it all in, or if your knees are shaking, descend back to street level. The night is still far too young. Cab it to Lumpini National Boxing Stadium (see p.114) around the corner, which will guarantee adrenaline rushes, as young men kick and punch the hell out of each other. For something less violent, Suan Lum Night Bazaar (see p.104), a pricier but less sweaty version of Chatuchak is just seconds away. Seafood restaurants abound here and the Joe Louis Puppet Theater (see p.56) is great for a cultural show. There’s also a good beer garden. Time to think about wrapping the day up. If you’re a jazz-lover a class act can always be found at Niu’s on Silom, as can fine Italian food and fivestar service. Or, if wine’s your thang, head to suave oenophile hangout Kukrit’s House

Lumphini Boxing Stadium

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Opus. For more rowdy (and raunchy) times, head back to Silom. There’s still shopping to be done here as many street vendors are just starting their day selling trinkets, clothes and cheap knock-offs. If you’re looking for something more hip, the bars and clubs in Silom Soi 4 will suffice. If you’re gay, look no further than same-sex central, Silom Soi 2. And if you’re feeling frisky and don’t mind being harassed by aggressive touts, immerse yourself in the decadent not-so-underworld that is Soi Patpong. Be careful around here and do not follow strangers offering you free shows. But don’t hold back, because whatever you choose to do in this part of town at this time, you’re most likely to wake up with no recollection of it.

EAT n Eat Me! 20 M. off Convent Rd. (Soi Pipat 2), Silom| BTS Sala Daeng | 02-238-0931 | www.eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm -1am Popular with expats, this trendy restaurant-cum-art-gallery serves tasty fusions. n Naj 42 Convent Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-2811 | www.najcuisine.com | 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11:30pm The Thai food and white house setting is dignified and elegant, so put your new silk shirt on. n Spanish on 4 78-80 Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-632-9955 | www.tapascafebangkok. com | Mon-Fri 11am-1am, Sat-Sun 11am-2am Watch night-owls strutting Silom’s party soi while feasting on tasty tapas and delicious sangria. n Coyote on Covent Sivadon Building, 1/2 Convent Road | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-631-2325 Mouthwatering Mexicana: Burritos, enchiladas, 50-plus Margeritas. DRINK n OPUS 64 Pan Road, Soi Wat Kaek, Silom | BTS Surasak | 02-637-9899 An urbane wine bar stocking 400, sightseeing

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Ubuntu Shop 9, Grand Terrace Condominium, Sala Daeng Rd | 02-632-0381 Buy everything from coffee to rustic art and t-shirts at this funky hybrid. n Jim Thompson 9 Surawong Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-8100 | www. jimthompson.com Sumptuous silk items at the American enigma’s flagship store. Spa n Health

Sightseeing

route 101 CentralWorld

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Siam and Pr atunam BACC

of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride on Klong Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at Jim Thompson’s House (see p.30). Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps ri R

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he Pratunam and Siam Square districts are famed as a shopper’s paradise. From the chaos of the shop-4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. Hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the canal (khlong) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 105), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand. Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise

indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi. Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the crisp, concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modern art scene central. After all this walking, a sit-down is probably in order. CentralWorld, Asia’s largest “lifestyle shopping complex”, houses scores of great restaurants and a fantastic cinema complex, where you can treat yourself to a ‘luxury cinema’ screening (see p.58). Top off your day with a yin-yang cocktail at Centara Grand hotel’s ultra-chic rooftop bar, Red Sky (p.86). You don’t even need to leave the bracing confines of the CentralWorld complex to get there. Just take an escalator to level one, catch a lift to the hotel’s lobby, and from there make like a rocket to the 55th floor.

Lumphini Park

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: a Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. 30

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temples majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature examples of Thai mural art documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced.

The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m² royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. Though King Bhumibol now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth

seeing, and there are some state rooms and halls open to visitors.These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, this forms the north-eastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. After being moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings and then taken by the Lao to Vientiane, Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and placed it at the centre of his new capital. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the

WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

Wat Arun

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

The Giant Swing

temples WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art 32

and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the respected Maha Makut Buddhist University, this temple is par ticularly important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm | B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha sightseeing

possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good fortune.

วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-5pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

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Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium (see below). Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Eskimo. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones.The city’s parks (see p.35) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.104), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo (p.35) is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World (p.35) is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. On a more scholarly note, there’s a cracking museum aimed at inquisitive young minds. The Children’s Discovery Museum has a science and nature theme and is handily located near to Chatuchak. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old. The Children’s Discovery Museum (map C1) Kamphaeng Petch 4 Rd, Chatuchak | 02-6157333 | www.bkkchildren museum.com | Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am- 6pm | B150 Near the Chatuchak weekend market, this interactive museum aimed at younger guests covers science, nature and the environment. It also hosts regular courses and activity camps. พิพิธภัณฑ์เด็กกรุงเทพมหานคร

Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์ ตรงข้ามสวนจตุจักร

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which bangkok 101

performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Ganesha Shrine

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum. com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B40 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) and start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am-5pm | B30 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya, when the crews number up to 64 and include rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and musicians. Beautiful and ornate, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

Oddball Museums

It’s not all Buddhist art you know. Several museums in and around Bangkok delve into Thailand’s wacky and idiosyncratic. Definitely the most macabre, the Si Quey Forensics Museum revels in pickled body parts and cadavers of serial killers. A close second, the Corrections Museum uses lifelike models to recreate the rough justice meted out to crims in the not so old days (you’ll think twice about that sly toke after a trip here). Also in central Bangkok, the Museum of Counterfeit Goods displays 1,500 of Thailand’s best forgeries. As long as you call ahead (and don’t use it as a means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong the next day), you’re welcome. On the outskirts, the weekends only House of Museums is a two-storey sprawl of retro curiosities. Finally, if you’re a cinephile interested in Thailand’s New Wave, learn about the heritage that inspired your Pen-Eks and Apichatpongs at the Thai Film Museum in Nakhom Pathom. By appointment on weekdays, here you walk among recreated film sets, old 16mm cameras and waxwork figures of Thai cine heroes. Si Quey Forensics Museum (Official Name ‘Siriraj Medical Museum’) 2 Prannok road, Bangkoknoi | www.si.mahidol.ac.th | 02- 419-7000 ext 6363 | Mon-Sat 9am – 4pm | B40

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศริ ริ าช ถ.พรานนก

Corrections Museum 436 Bangkok Remand Prison, Mahachai Rd., Samranrat, Phra Nakhon | Mon-Fri 9am - 4pm | 02-226-1704 | free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ราชทัณฑ์ เรือนจำเก่า ใกล้กบั สวนรมณีนาถ

Museum of Counterfeit Goods Supalai Grand Tower Building 26F, Rama III Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-653-5555 | www.tillekeandgibbins.com | by appointment only

อาคารศุภาลัยแกรนด์ทาวเวอร์ ถ.พระราม 3

House of Museums 170/17 Moo 17 Soi Klong Po 2, Salathammasop Rd., Taweewattana | 089-666-2008 | http://houseofmuseums.siam.edu | Sat-Sun 10am – 5pm | B30

บ้านพิพธิ ภัณฑ์ ซ.คลองโพ 2 ศาลาธรรมสพน์

Thai Film Museum 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom| www.nfat.org | 02-482- 2013-15 | weekday: appointment only, weekend tours: 10am, noon, 3pm | free

หอภาพยนตร์แห่งชาติ 94 หมู่ 3 ถ.พุทธมณฑลสาย 5

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02225-2777 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B300 Just a few blocks from the Grand Palace, the Children’s museum is located inside the historic Ministry of Commerce building. Inside the three storey, E-shaped Renaissance style building, built in 1921, is a series of interactive, animated, theme park-like sightseeing

exhibitions exploring the history of the Siamese people. For adult viewers making sense of each room might be confusing: topics unexpectedly jump from ethnicity to religion to ancient folklore. Kids though will find it an edutaining experience, and love playing with the vibrant touch screens.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

bangkok 101

ban

101

the great outdoors

Rama IX Royal Park

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

bangkok 101

CHATUCHAK and QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

Siam Ocean World (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’reThai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing. สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 35

Sightseeing

in the neighbourhood

VALENTINE’S DAY IN BANGKOK

Birds do it, bees do it, even educated fleas do it... Read on to find out how Bangkokians will uniquely do it – fall in love – this Valentine’s Day.

Trimurti Shrine: Pray for Love

It may seem odd to the outsider, but here in Bangkok praying for a sweetheart comes as naturally as praying for a pay-rise or that grandpa recovers quickly from his hernia operation. Folklore says that one shrine in particular – the Hindu-shrine Trumurti – is a shoo-in for singletons. Every Thursday at 9pm, the lovelorn flock to its spot in front of CentralWorld mall, red roses and candles in hand, before prostrating themselves and praying. Hard. This Valentine’s Day will be no different, with hundreds all queuing up to ask Trumurti for their very own Robert Patterson. Location: The square in front of CentralWorld’s Isetan Department store, Ratchadamri Road

Bang Rak: Bangkok’s ‘Love’ district

Large numbers of Thai lovebirds choose Valentine’s Day to get married. One registry office in particular is a magnet – the district of Bang Rak’s – as its auspicious name, which translates as ‘Village of Love’, is thought to bring long-lasting love. Head here and you can expect a good-natured scrum as hundreds of brides and grooms, many in elaborate costume, declare their betrothal in public. This informal spectacle is an amusing photo opportunity never missed by the local Thai press and television. Location: Bang Rak District Office 5 Nares Rd., Si Phraya, Bangrak Tel. 02-236-1395

Yaa Dong Stalls: Oldschool Arousers

Pak Khlong Talad: Say it with flowers… lots of them

Forget Interflora. When it comes to saying it with flowers this Valentine’s Day do as the city’s clued-up Casanovas do and make for the city’s 24-hour flower market (see this month’s photo feature on p.48 for more). Here, as laden trucks rumble in from the countryside, you can snag a bundle of 50 or so roses, in hues of red, yellow or pink, for less than 100 baht. That’s a few measly US dollars… and serious brownie points from your pleasantly shocked sweetheart. Location: Chakrapetch Rd. – Maharat Rd., Phra Nakorn 36

sightseeing

Dotted along darkened sidewalks across the city are makeshift stalls selling little B10 shot glasses of herbal Thai whisky. The city’s blue-collar like to swig them after a hard day at the cement grinder. There’s nothing very romantic about that… except for the fact that many of these earthy brews are considered aphrodisiacs and, thus, should be necked with considerable gusto this San Valentino. Their titter-worthy names include Murmuring Lady and Horse Bursts His Stable. You get the idea. Sample at your (and your lover’s) peril. Location: a fairy-light lit street stall near you bangkok 101

Lopburi: Monkey Magic

Located about 150km north of Bangkok, the former Khmer capital of Lopburi is a fascinating mix of royal splendor, desolate ruins and monkey magic. The quirky town offers a refreshing insight into Thailand’s turbulent past, while the mischievous simian population makes for a fun, if somewhat unpredictable, destination! Lopburi had its glory days during the Ayudhaya period, when King Narai the Great made the city his second capital. The palace he built in 1665 stands proudly in the centre of town and the compound now serves as Lopburi’s National Museum which is certainly worth checking out. The region’s outstanding archaeological sites are also a major attraction and the city is littered with impressive temple remains. Most hotels and guesthouses rent out bikes for a small fee, so you can explore the atmospheric ruins at your own pace. The ancient Khmer shrine of Phra Prang Sam Yot is Lopburi’s best known landmark and is home to most of the city’s large and rather troublesome macaque monkey population. The monkeys can be found throughout the city, but are most ubiquitous at this picturesque, three-prang shrine and the nearby San Phra Kan shrine, and have grown fat on the handouts of visitors. But be warned! Just because the monkeys are used to being fed, that doesn’t mean they’re tame. They can be quite aggressive and have a penchant for snatching hats and bags from unsuspecting tourists, so keep a watchful eye for mischief while you roam! When you’ve seen all of the provincial capital’s sights, Wat Phra Phutthabat makes for a fine day excursion from Lopburi. The exquisite golden shrine houses a revered ‘Buddha’s footprint’, considered to bangkok 101

featured daytip

be one of the most significant of its kind in Thailand. Jump on any Saraburibound bus which will stop at the base of the temple. Also located in Lopburi province, some 45km from the centre of town at Tambon Chong Sarika, is the largest sunflower field in Thailand. The flowers – called tantawan in Thai – are in full bloom from November to February and a favorite jaunt for Thai flower lovers or anyone who enjoys long sweeping vistas of golden yellow. The rich cultural heritage, entertaining monkey business and floral charms make Lopburi a unique destination for a short escape. sightseeing

Getting there Trains leave Bangkok’s Hualamphong train station five times a day (www.railway.co.th | 02-2237010). Air-conditioned coaches and non air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit 2 Bus Terminal) every 20 minutes (5:30am-8:30pm, 02-936-2852). Drivers should take Highway No.1 via Saraburi, or use Highway No. 32 via Ayutthaya, and travel down Highway No. 347 to Lop Buri via Tha Ruea District.

Sightseeing Lop Buri

Uthai Thani

day tripping

Chai Nat Nakhon Ratchasima

Ang Thong Saraburi

Suphan Buri

It’s easy getting around in Thailand, and there are plenty of worthwhile excursions within easy reach of Bangkok; some one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent. AYUTTHAYA The capital of Siam from the 14th to 18th century, Ayutthaya was one of the richest cities in the East, until it was plundered by the Burmese in 1767 and its ruins left to nature. Today a Unesco World Heritage Site, its remnants – all Khmer-esque stupas, crumbling bricks and Buddha faces entwined in tree roots – make a wonderful daytrip. The 85km journey is best done by river. The major hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City. Many combine the trip with a visit to the Bang Pa-in Summer Palace.A former royal garden retreat, this presents a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly reflecting King Rama V’s love for all things European. Once at Ayutthaya, hop on a bike and scoot round highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. . LOPBURI Lopburi’s illustrious ruins date back over 1,000 years and can done on foot. During the Dvaravati period (6th-11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo until the Khmers took over the region during Angkor’s 10th century heyday. The Thais took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. And in the 1600s, King Narai made the city the second capital and fortified it against the Dutch navy 38

Ayutthaya

Kanchanaburi

Nakhon Pathom

Koh Kred

Pathumthani

Nakhon Nayok

Sa Kaeo

Nonthaburi Bangkok

Ratchaburi

Samut Sakhon Samut Songkhram

Samut Prakan

Chachoengsao

Chon Buri

Phetchaburi

threatening Ayutthaya. The remnants of the palace he built now serve as a public museum. The city is also littered with crumbling wats (temples) blending Khmer and Thai styles. Watch your belongings: the most famous – threeprang shrine Phra Prang Sam Yot (a prang is a spire-like vault) – is home to some mischievous macaque monkeys.

monuments and buildings. Built by the same benefactor, the smaller Erawan Museum features a towering threeheaded elephant sculpture. Inside are antiques and a stucco chapel, but most Thais come for the fantastical gardens and to pray for good luck at the esteemed shrine.-

NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120m high chedi (or stupa), the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century version. Situated around 55km west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in Thailand, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history.The other big draw is the Rose Garden, a picturesque 70-acre park featuring botanical gardens and mock-Thai village cultural shows.

KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film The Bridge on the River Kwai, Kanchanaburi town is a popular weekend getaway, offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreigners are attracted by the area’s history – namely the “Thai Burma Death Railway,” built by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The lush countryside around Kanchanaburi is home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking.

SAMUT PRAKAN Just down the road – 29km away – Samut Prakan has three big draws.The Crocodile Farm offers daily croc wrestling and elephant shows. Muang Boran (the Ancient City) is an open-air museum park featuring over 100 replicas of landmark Thai temples,

KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Home to wild elephants, deer, boar, tigers and innumerable species of birdlife, Khao Yai (2½ hour’s drive from Bangkok) is one of Thailand’s most impressive national parks. Hike through the jungle to altitudes of over 1,000m. Hire a

sightseeing

bangkok 101

guide as it’s easy to get lost – the park is over 2,000km2 in size, and local maps are not to be trusted. Fancy staying the night? There are state-run bungalows in the park and luxe resorts nearby. Wine lover? Some of Thailand’s top wineries – Chateau des Brumes, Granmonte Estate, PB Valley – are also in the vicinity. NAKHON RATCHASIMA (KORAT) Both a silk and trade hub, Nakhon Ratchasima is the country’s largest province and home to Korat, its second largest city.The moated town with city gates is rewarding; and the countryside has a surfeit of Khmer ruins left over from the Angkor period, the best being in the recently restored Phi Mai Historical Park (60km north of Korat). Pak Thong Chai (30km north of Korat) is Thailand’s leading silk village. And for horse-riding and the chance to milk cows, visit Farm Chok Chai, a working farm popular with Stetsonwearing agro-tourists. KOH KRED Highly recommended, this ickle car-free island sits on a kink in the Chao Phraya River and is home to a Mon community renowned for their ancestral red-clay pottery skills. Seriously sleepy during the week, the palm-clad place goes into commercial overdrive on weekends. Bangkok cityslickers stroll its narrow footpaths, past working pottery warehouses, old Buddhist temples and homes selling hand-finished ceramics and tasty Mon kanom (snacks). By the time they’ve gone full circle, a few hours later, they’re smitten. Take a regular express boat up the Chao Phraya River to Nonthaburi and hire a long-tailed boat (B500 approx). Alternatively, on Sundays, the Chao Phraya Express ferry offers a guided tour for B300 (www. chaophrayaboat.co.th). bangkok 101

SARABURI Though often overs hadowed by neighbouring Lopburi, this central province, 108km north of Bangkok, still packs a thrill or two. Its 1½m-long Buddha footprint makes Wat Phra Putthabhat one of the most important temples in the region. And caves, like Tham Phra Pothisat, draw crowds thanks to their beautiful stalactite formations and Buddhist bas-reliefs, as does Chet Sao Noi Waterfall. The main attraction though is definitely out in the fields – from Nov-Jan bright sunflowers blanket the land, providing vibrant photo opportunities galore. PHETCHABURI Sacred Buddhist caves, neoclassical palaces, a quirky provincial market town – there’s more to Petchaburi province than the beach resort town of Cha Am. Best savoured over a long-weekend, sights include Wat Yai, a beautiful 17th century temple complex; and the stalactite and sculpture strewn Tham Khao Luang cave. To the west is also the scandalously underrated Kaeng Krachan National Park, where camp sites, butterfly and bird watching, water rafting and a stunning reservoir fringed by undulating hills await. CHACHOENGSAO An hour’s drive to the east, Chachoengsao rarely make the travel guides but is popular with locals. Smothered along the banks of the Bang Pakong River, the town boasts the temple Wat Sothon and 100-year old market Talad Baan Mai, where vendors flog traditional delicacies from within wooden King Rama V-era shophouses. Renting a boat to go see the old teak and stilted houses that line the sightseeing

sides – and the dolphins who migrate here between Nov and Feb – is also popular. RATCHABURI Ratchaburi’s Damnoen Saduak floating market is the hokiest in the land. But “The Land of the Kings” does have other qualities: unspoilt klongs (canals), hot stream Bo Khloung, the cascading Kaew Chan waterfall, and stalagmite and stalactite caves. For artsy-boho types there’s also the Suan Silp Baan Din Arts Centre, staging performances of old Thai arts and workshops. And at Wat Khanon temple, NangYai puppetry (an evocative but dying artform where puppet silhouettes are projected onto fabric screens) survives. Performances are on Saturdays. CHON BURI When it comes to this industrialised province on the eastern seaboard, we say skip Pattaya, Thailand’s Sodom-onSea, and head for Koh Si Chang, a small fishing island a mere 40-minute/B40 ferry hop across the Gulf of Thailand from Si Racha Town. King Rama V loved it there; and after a few hours exploring its hillside temples, summer palaces and pebbly beaches, so will you. On the way home, Baen San is a local, bucket-and-spade beach; and Talad Nong Mon, in Chonburi town, offers toothsome regional snacks like khao lam (sweet sticky rice in bamboo tubes). SUPHAN BURI This is where it all went down: where the legendary King Naresuan fended off Burma and rid Thailand of foreign occupation, freeing it from the Pegu Kingdom way back in 1592. At the Don Chedi, 30km from central Suphan Buri, there is a statue erected in his honour, as well as an exhibition hall and museum. Other draws include the Thai Rice Farmer’s Museum, Bueng Chawak Aquarium (64km out of town), and ancient temples dating back almost 1,000 years.

Sightseeing

NEARBY ISLANDS/BEACHES

No time to jet down to Koh Samui or Phuket? A handful of beach resorts and islands close to Bangkok are perfect for last-minute escapes.These span the gamut from lonely beaches offering the odd reggae shack and driftwood sign, to cosmopolitan beach resorts that have adopted the ‘built it and they will come’ philosophy with mixed results. ■ PATTAYA/JOMTIEN Most famous for its seedy nightlife, Pattaya’s been trying – well, sort of – to re-establish itself as a family destination. Hundreds of hotels and eateries ensure competitive prices; and while the surfeit Koh Chang of self-enclosed resorts means it’s easy for those with kids or a sleaze intolerance to avoid the girly bars, sister beach Jomtien is still a better option. ■ KOH CHANG A large jungle-clad hilly gem that’s been found by the deluxe hotel industry. Spending the night in hammocks is impossible, but fantastic beaches are still here, some hiend touristy, some budget backpacker-y. Catch a bus from the Ekkamai bus station (approx 5 hours) or fly here with Bangkok Air via Trat (approx 2 hours). ■ KOH SAMET A retreat for hip Thai youngsters who invade the island to

FLOATING MARKETS

Amphawa

Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose. n DAMNOEN SADUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 1530 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang. 40

spend days swimming in clear waters and nights sipping Thai-whisky buckets or playing the guitar on the superclean beaches. It’s worth booking ahead on weekends and public holidays, lest you want to be a source of amusement as you trudge up and down the beach desperately looking for an overpriced room. ■ HUA HIN/CHA-AM The royal summer residence town receives hordes of Thai families and package tourists. The long beach is satisfying, and is dotted with plenty of top-notch resorts like Chiva Som, the Evason, Hyatt Regency, Hilton and more. The piers filled with seafood restaurants are more of an attraction, as is the addictive night market. Nearby Cha-am is Hua Hin’s smaller, less developed sister. Coach loads of Thai townies come here on weekends to fly kites, ride ponies and generally lark around in the ocean. ■ KO SI CHANG Located a cheap 45 minute ferry journey from Si Racha Town, in Chonburi province, scenic Koh Si Chang is seldom visited by foreign tourists. More fool them – though its more of a sightseer island than a sunbather island, it’s got picturesque lookouts, King Rama V era palaces and Chinese temples to explore.Those wanting to overnight can pick from a few cheap resorts and bungalows.

GETTING THERE By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 434-5558). n TALING CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday,Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly.

n AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season. GETTING THERE By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram.The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram.

GETTING THERE By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-424-5448 or 02424-1712). Damnoen Saduak

sightseeing

bangkok 101

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

upcountry festivals

5-6 Feb

Big Mountain Music Festival, Korat

Want a two-day crash course in the Thai music scene? Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find it at the first of what we hope will become the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very own Glastonbury (albeit hopefully minus the mud bath). Reverberating around the green hills of Korat Provinceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bonanze Kao-Yai Resort will be the sounds of local live acts like Slur, Big Ass, The Diet Pills and T-Bone, as well as DJs like Dudesweetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Note and Methee from Moderndog. Tickets B1,400 for a two-day pass via www.thaiticketmajor.com; camping available. See www.bigmountainmusicfestival.com for more.

Until 22 Feb

Fringe Festival 2010, Hua Hin

11- 14 Feb

Underwater Wedding, Trang

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that time of year again when lovers line up to tie the knot down in the deep blue sea. Fourteen years after the first mass underwater wedding ceremony, blushing brides will again be squeezing garters over their wetsuits. Amazingly popular, dozens of couples sign up every year to say â&#x20AC;&#x153;I doâ&#x20AC;? using diversâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; sign language. Packages start at around B30,000 and include rooms, meals, costumes, air tanks and a videotape to impress the grandchildren with. More info at www.underwaterwedding.com bangkok 101

Nine years after the first, Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Patravadi Theatre is staging its eclectic contemporary arts festival in the seaside resort town of Hua Hin. This year should be extra special, as the roster of leftfield theatre, puppet shows, dance workshops, shorts movies, village discos and food fairs coincides with the inauguration of the theatre groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new, multi-million baht Vic Hua Hin art complex. Shows take place every Friday-Sunday. 02-8335555, www.totalreservation.com or www.patravaditheatre.com

GMCGP5|F?eN#F?? h|6N51L`3|

Every Friday to Sunday, 22 Jan - 20 Feb 2010

ĂŹÄ?Ă&#x2013;ĂźÄ&#x2020;ĂŽĂ˝Ä?Ă&#x2013;Ă¸Ĺ¤ ĂźÄ&#x2020;ĂŽÄ&#x201A;Ä&#x2021;ĂŹÄ&#x2030;ĂŞĂˇĹ¤ Ä&#x2018;Ă¸Ä&#x2030;Ä&#x2122;Ăś ĂśĂ&#x2013;Ă¸Ä&#x2021;Ă&#x2122;Ăś Ă&#x2013;Ä?ĂśĂľÄ&#x2021;ĂłÄ&#x2020;ĂŽĂĹ¤ Tickets at Ă?Ä&#x201A;Ă&#x153;ĂŻÄ&#x2020;ĂŞĂ¸ : 028335555, www.totalreservation.com More information ĂżÄ&#x201A;ĂŻĂŤÄ&#x2021;Ăś : 024127287-8, www.patravaditheatre.com

sightseeing

5-7 Feb

Chiang Mai Flower Festival

Outside of Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sakura Flower Festival, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve probably never seen such amazing things done with flowers. Head down to Buak Hat Park at the southwest corner of the Old City and check out amazing floats festooned with fanciful, exuberant floral designs that would melt even the coldest Bauhaus heart. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll also be several floral art installations and the requisite beauty contests, music and petalled stuff for purchase. Make sure to wear some flowers in your hair. www.tatchiangmai.orgÂ Charlie Musselwhite

26-27 Feb

Phuket International Blues Rock Festival

Now into its fifth year, the Phuket boogie bonanza welcomes American blues artistÂ Charlie Musselwhite and his great band. Other international acts that have confirmed include last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s popular Rich Harper Blues Band, Latino blues meister Andy Gonzales and Richard Clapton (no relation to Eric). The venue is the Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort & Spa on Karon Beach. Check out www.phuketbluesfestival.com. 41

Sightseeing

upcountry escape Steven Pettifor

Koh Lipe

hile Thailand’s island hotspots of Phuket, Samui, Phangan, Phi-Phi and Chang are firmly entrenched on the tourism trail, the tiny southern isle of Ko Lipe is still a relatively unknown destination. But with the recent arrival of a couple of boutique resorts, this chilled out hideaway on the Malaysian border is attracting not only backpackers but an increasing number of comfort accustomed flash-packers. Located in Satun Province and just a short boat ride to Langkawi Island in Malaysia, Ko Lipe is mainly visited by travelers heading to and from Malaysia, as well as local weekenders who make the 60 kilometre boat ride from the mainland pier of Pak Barra. One of over 50 islands that make up the Tarutao National Marine Park, the area is known historically as refuge for pirates and for once housing a notorious prison to lock up Thai miscreants and political dissenters. In 2002 Ko Tarutao, the largest island in the chain, became the temporary

refugee for contestants on the US reality series Survivor. Ko Lipe has two main beaches, Pattaya and Sunrise, connected by a pedestrian lane that dissects the two shorelines. The leafy lane has most of the island’s tourist shops and basic eateries, with a lot more being built at the time of writing. There is also the smaller Sunset beach that has fine views across to the larger Ko Adang. Lined with the majority of resorts, the crescent shaped Pattaya Beach is busier with Thai visitors and long

sightseeing

tail boast traffic, but unfortunately it also has a fair amount of debris washing up that not all resorts take the time to clear. The beach’s best accommodation is the recently opened Sita Beach Resort and Spa, which along with Idyllic on Sunrise, boast the island’s only swimming pools. With the whole island pretty chilled in terms of nightlife, Pattaya beach has a couple of the liveliest bars, complete with the now ubiquitous nightly fire juggling shows. Home to the island’s Chao Ley, or sea gypsy community, the north coast’s Sunrise beach is much quieter with a more tranquil vibe and crystal clear water that makes for great snorkeling and kayaking. Two of Lipe’s best resorts in Castaway and Idyllic are located within close proximity towards the southern end of the beach. With its rooftop pool and sunken bar, the newer Idyllic is styled contemporary chic with all mod cons, attracting a hip young Thai crowd. Nearby Castaway’s two-storey thatch roof bungalows are bangkok 101

Burma

Bangkok

Getting There Thai Airways flies to Hat Yai and from there taxis (approx B1,500) can be hired to drive the hour and a half journey to Pak Bara pier. From there speedboats take a Phuket bumpy and at times treacherous 90 minute journey to Lipe. Koh Lipe sightseeing

Laos

Chiang Mai

S man

bangkok 101

long tail boats head off on short haul day trips to largely uninhabited neighbouring islands such as Ko Adang. Covered in sea-smoothed rocks, Ko Hin-ngam is one of the more popular destinations, where visitors stack teetering rock towers for good luck. Those who remove the stones for keepsakes are said to be mortally cursed by the Gods of Tarutao.

Anda

rustic in ambience and perch right on the beach. Dressed with hammocks and floor cushions, the restaurant and bar deck has a laidback vibe and is perfect for sundowners. Castaway Divers operate from the resort, offering a personal touch with friendly staff and small groups of divers. There are numerous dive sites around Lipe and surrounding islands, though some are less navigable depending on the season. Marine life is abundant and the quality of coral is good, with Stonehengeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s submerged granite pinnacle an easy relaxed dive, while more advanced divers will enjoy the depths 8 Mile Rock and the possibility of an encounter with a giant but placid whale shark. For those who prefer snorkeling,

Cambodia

Koh Samui

Vietnam

Gulf of Thailand

Malaysia

Sightseeing

PENANG:

Pearl of the Orient

ocated only a short flight from Bangkok in the Malaysian Straits of Malacca, Pulau Pinang, the “island of the betel nut”, is a laid-back living museum of colonial heritage, cultural fusion and fine dining, and makes a great escape from the high-paced, high-rise metropolis. The so-called “Pearl of the Orient” on the northwest coast of Malaysia, Penang was established as the first Far Eastern British trading post in 1786, and the fine colonial buildings of George Town are a grandiose tribute to its imperial decadence. Historical George Town is centred around the old Fort Cornwallis which marks the spot where Captain Francis Light landed in 1786. Many of the gorgeous, colonial buildings dotted around the Fort housed the British administration until independence in 1957, and now form the administrative and legislative centre of modern Penang.

sightseeing

bangkok 101

Getting There n Air Asia | www.airasia.com n Thai Airways | www.thaiair.com n Malaysia Airlines | www. malaysiaairlines.com

bangkok 101

Thanks to its unique cultural heritage, Penang is Malaysia’s undisputed food heaven, with the tastiest offerings to be found from hawkers and food stalls. Sample local specialties such as char kway teow (fried flat noodles with prawns and bean sprouts) and assam laksa (a sour fish-based soup) on Gurney Drive, or for seriously stylish dining head to Stephen Lim’s awardwinning Thirty Two at the Mansion for fine fusion in an elegant setting. Beyond Georgetown, Penang has tons of tropical treasures to keep ecotourists entertained. Its award-winning national park, Teluk Bahang, is a haven for adventurous hikers and with over 23 hectares of rainforest, Sungai Tekun Park is a birder’s paradise. Although many of Penang’s beaches are not as pristine as they once were, resorts like the Parkroyal Penang still provide scenic spots for sun-worshippers. Penang has many excellent hotels and resorts to choose from, but for the ultimate in colonial chic, the exquisite dining halls, sweeping staircases and luxurious suites of the The Eastern & Oriental Hotel on Lebuh Farquhar still evoke the opulent glamour of a bygone era. sightseeing

Eat n Thirty Two At The

Mansion | 32 Jln Sultan Ahmad Shah, +604262-2232 | www.32atthemansion. com Stay

n Eastern

Photography by Martin Perry

For a romantic insight into the island’s colonial settlement, the restored Christian Cemetery holds the graves of many important characters involved in the growth of “Pulo Pinang” including Captain Francis Light himself and is worth a wander. Also boasting a long history of Asian migrants, Penang is a fascinating cultural melting pot, and a series of clan houses, temples and mosques form many great walking trails around the town. Take a trishaw ride along the heritage trail and hit the Cathedral of the Assumption, the ornate Peranakan Mansion and Goddess of Mercy Temple along the way. Winner of a Unesco Heritage Conservation Award, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion has been restored after a century of neglect and offers daily tours around the town’s grandest Chinese residence. The city certainly has a distinct Chinese flavour in parts, with its ancient trades, winding narrow streets and traditional hawker stalls, while the vibrant enclave of Little India is a great spot for excellent food, spices, saris and Bollywood bustle.

Arts

contemporary art

Art Republic

Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional absorption of all things American and

European, many of Thailand’s freshfaced generation of artists are infatuated with the street-style, urban iconography of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, Korea and increasingly China. An indicator of the growing profile of Thai art could be in the proliferation of new commercial galleries that have opened in the last couple of years, with Bangkok gaining over a dozen new venues in different areas across the city. These include artist -run spaces such as printmaker and sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s hotbed of young conceptualists at Gallery VER. While Thailand’s ongoing political debacle has complicated ar tistic planning, the decade-plus wait for the new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opposite MBK shopping mall, is over. For news of its exhibitions, performances and the like log on to www.bacc.or.th GALLERIES The majority of contemporary art on view in Bangkok is produced by domestic practitioners, several of whom are now receiving significant international exposure, though there is ar ts

an increasing number of regional Asian artists displaying their works, at prices often cheaper than in countries like Singapore, China and Vietnam. Whether hoping to peruse some emerging local protagonist, or purchase something a bit more commercial or traditional, one thing’s for certain – prices for art in Bangkok are more realistic and reasonable than overinflated, fashionable ar t centres in America, Europe and increasingly China. You’ll soon realise that the city doesn’t have a concentrated artistic enclave; rather, there are small pockets of galleries, auction houses and antiques shops randomly dispersed throughout the city. Commercial galleries are spread across town and a little route planning is advised before embarking on a day of gallery musing. On the following page is a selection of noteworthy galleries about town. Steven Pettifor is the editor of the Bangkok Art Map (BAM!), and author of Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is available as a consultant to art buyers; stevenpettifor@hotmail.com bangkok 101

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM! is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab a copy and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

Uniform/Uniformity, a peep at Thailand’s back parlor Tang Contemporary Art Unit B-28 (Basement), Silom Galleria 919/1 Soi 19 | 02630-1114 | Mon-Sat 11am–7pm (closed public holidays) | www.tangcontemporary.com | BTS Surasak Interest in Tawan Wattuya’s painterly art stems from his often satirical fluid watercolours that poke fun at contemporary Thai society. Enriched with a liberal dose of humour, the ascendant artist’s earlier 2007 series Siamese Freaks! drew upon Thailand’s famous conjoined twins Chang and Eng to create a number of parodying double portraits that highlighted the two-faced nature of people, in particular public figures. In his latest expressive watercolours, Tawan further refines his critique of the human condition to question Thai issues of obedience, rank and stature, as well as attitudes towards sexuality and media censorship. Focusing on social groups such as boy scouts and girl guides, beauty pageant contestants, university students, politicians, and more provocatively prostitutes in massage parlours, Tawan poses them in orderly rows to convey the importance of superficial appearances here in Thailand. His intention appears a provocation aimed at forcing the populace to reassess how they judge others by their shallow exterior camouflage, and also at realising that inner expression is the true gauge of identity. Until Feb 14

bangkok 101

art exhibitions

Urban Lines Face Bangkok Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 02-713-6048 The ambient location of Face Bangkok is the setting for an exhibition of photographic studies of the Thai capital by Bangkok-based lensman Marc Schultz. Using the gimmick of a fish-eye lens, Schultz creates unique distorted perspectives of the Asian megalopolis. A city constantly mutating under the constraints of rapid development, Schultz captures vignettes of daily life against a backdrop of flux and evolution. Until Mar 10

Living Room 100 Tonson Gallery 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd | 02-684-1527 | Thu-Sun 11am-7pm | www.100tonsongallery.com | BTS Chitlom Thailand nurtures few homegrown curators so those interested in pursuing this important mechanism to art infrastructure are typically forced to study abroad to gain the relevant credentials. Young female curator Thanavi Chotpradit recently returned from studying in the Netherlands, and this exhibition of visual and sound installation is in part payback for her sponsored grant by 100 Tonson Gallery. Featuring a collaboration between artists Prinda Setabundu and Kata Sangkae, and composers Jiradej Setabundu and Anothai Nitibhon, the exhibition aims to make space perceivable. Until Feb 28 ar ts

Pak Khlong Talat

A night in the life of Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s non-stop fresh market Photography by

Gavin Gough

y day, Pak Khlong Talat is the place to buy wholesale fruit and vegetables. Trucks loaded with produce cough their way through the Bangkok traffic on route to this old fresh market located on the banks of Chao Phraya, near Saphan Pood Memorial Bridge. To all appearances the market is busy enough by day, yet it is after dark when activities reach their most intense. From dusk to dawn, Chak Phed Road is clogged with vehicles as the nightly flower market enters full-swing. Porters jockey for position amongst the buses, taxis and tuktuks as they wheel their baskets of roses and marigolds to waiting customers. At dawn, barefoot monks arrive and receive alms from the stallholders and then the morning ritual of packing up large sections of the market before dawn gets underway. No matter what time of the day or night visitors arrive, they find a thriving, bustling but very friendly market that never sleeps. Having introduced clients to the visual delights of the market during his photo workshops, Gavin Gough set out to document a night in the life of this nonstop market. www.gavingough.com

n 7pm: The sun sets beyond the Chao Phraya as

stallholders begin to set up for the night trade.

n 9pm: Preparing lotus flowers for potential buyers on Thanon Chakphet.

n 9pm: Porters transport trolleys filled with roses to waiting buyers.

PhotoFeature

n 10pm: A late-evening delivery of ice to the market.

n 12pm: Time for a rest for this market porter.

n 12pm: Roses wrapped in newspaper are popular with buyers.

PhotoFeature

n 1am: Waiting for customers at the flower market.

n 7am: The first light of the day begins to illuminate the market beside the Chao Phraya river.

n 7am: One of the marketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charismatic workers

takes a well earnt cigarette break.

n 7am: Moving trolleys between the traffic

can be a precarious occupation.

n 7am: Monks arrive at the market to receive alms.

PhotoFeature

n 9am: Cycling home with todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s purchase.

n 9am: Unloading bananas that have recently arrived at the market.

Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com, www.bangkokconcerts.com

Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai|BTS Victory Monument | 02677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular new 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, bear witness to hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www. patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are world-class.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

A live puppet show might sound like it’s aimed at kids, but this one is intriguing for all. The one-hour show follows the story of the Ramakien. The large puppets are incredibly lifelike; the scenes are colourful and fun to watch – so even adults enjoy the show. Arrive early to observe the production of traditional masks.

โรงละครนาฏยศาลา หุน่ ละครเล็ก (โจหลุยส์) สวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.35), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.30), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.85).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง ar ts

bangkok 101

TCDC (Thailand Creative & Design Centre) Quick Bites: Design for Better Eating

cultural centres

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres.These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on. Alliance Française (map C4)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly WHERE 6F,The Emporium good at opening your Shopping Complex, mind and eyes to Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS curious international Phrom Phong, 02-664-8448, design concepts; be it www.tcdc.co.th OPEN Vivienne Westwood’s 10:30am-9pm closed Mon fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

Japan Foundation (map D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ The Belgian Club of Thailand (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com

BACC (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th The eleven-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls and looks out towards the city’s elevated skytrain.The Guggenheim meets a mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre plans to nurture a scope of creative fields including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting 3,000sqm for hosting art. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

bangkok 101

ar ts

Arts

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, stateof-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.57), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180. The best place to check screening times is on Please the daily-updated stand while the www.movieseer.com. king's anthem is

Thai Cinema

played in respect to Thailand’s beloved monarch.

Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

POPCORN PARADISO

If you don’t fancy the local cineplex or your frontroom there’s another option that falls snugly between the two. Monday is Popcorn Paradiso night at Bed Supperclub (p.84), where creative chef Cameron Stuart serves a choice of two appetizers, three mains, and two desserts for you to chow on while you watch a classic or cult flick (B1,450++). And… you lie on fluffy white divan beds to eat: the perfect position for watching a movie. On Feb 1, let Tom Cruise and Kelly McGillis take your breath away in Top Gun, the 1986 Tony Scott classic about a squad of horny, macho US fighter pilots. Then on Feb 8, the 80s camp classic Footlose steps up. In it, a repressed Midwestern youth, played by Kevin Bacon, bravely fights for his right to dance. Stupid funny Ben Stiller comedy Zoolander, in which he plays a dimwit fashion model brainwashed to kill the Malaysian PM, then screens on Feb 15. And on Feb 22 you can watch young hopefuls trying out to make it on Broadway in Richard Attenborough’s 1986 musical A Chorus Line. Films start at 6:45pm. 02-651-3537, www.bedsupperclub.com 58

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APEX Lido, Siam and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02251-2861, Siam 02-251-3580 โรงภาพยนต์ลโิ ด สยาม และสกาลา

สยามสแควร์ ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Grand (Gold Class) Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-812-9999 สยามดิสคัฟเวอร์รเ่ี ซ็นเตอร์

ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Metropolis (Gold Class) Big-C Ratchadamri (opp. Central World Plaza), Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chitlom | 02-812-9999 บิก ๊ ซี ราชดำริ ตรงข้ามเซ็นทรัล

เวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-9333 เอ็มโพเรียม สุขม ุ วิท 24 SF WORLD CINEMA 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-268-8888 เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ SF World,CentralWorld

bangkok 101

reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used. LOVE ENTREPRENEURS Phil Nicks | Monsoon Books | 296pp | B495 Oh no. Not another book about the depraved dance of fascination between the lonely Western male and the hard-up Thai seductress. Or so we thought. In actual fact, this well-researched manual for foreigners who bumble gaily into Thailand’s love jungle cuts a different, dare we say, enjoyable path through the usual thick of misinformation and misogyny. Instead of sex-capades, this one is all about the money – or, more precisely, the financial ‘quid pro quo’ which underpins many, but by no means all, Thai-Farang pairings. Yes, there’s a cross-cultural chauvinism at play here (Western men bring their wallets to the table, Thai women their cooking skills and bodies), but its casestudies, cautionary tales and sample prenuptial contracts, can only mean less people – foreign and Thai – get bit. Surely a good thing?

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong or CD Warehouse outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English subtitles and DVD region compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

THAI FOLK WISDOM Tulaya Pornpiriya kulchai & Jane Vejjajiva | River Books | 58pp | B500 Words don’t just describe the world, they also shape it. This is especially true in Thailand, where sage proverbs, passed down from generation to generation, are more venerated than in most countries. Anyone interested in discovering them – thus improving their grasp of the Thai vernacular and mindset – should snap up this new coffee-table stunner with prose in English and Thai. Pairing notes on 50 common proverbs with funky illustrations by top Thai artists, it’s an enlightening or diverting read, depending on your mood. It spans the gamut from the intuitive (“riding an elephant to catch a grasshopper”) to the culturally obscure (“tigers eat lying down”). And keeping proceedings from seeming too didactic is a dovetailing story, by SEA Write Award winner Jane Vejjajiva, about the trials of a young girl and her family. Meticulously produced, this is a keeper.

THE BEST OF CHIANG RAI JaffeeYeeYeow-Fei & Edward Carter | Knowledge Media Group | 120pp | B1,295 Head north during your stay in the Kingdom and you’re bound to have at least one person chew your ear off about the delights of Chiang Rai, the oft-overlooked gateway province to the stunning Mekong region. Judging from this new coffee-table tome they’d be entirely justified in doing so. We knew about the alluring mountains and hill-tribe trekking. What we didn’t know – but quickly learnt on leafing through its elegantly laidout chapters on art, architecture, chic resorts and more – is that Chiang Rai has quietly been morphing into a luxe destination of sorts. And without sacrificing its small-town charms. Look out Chiang Mai: life might not be so rosy 5 years from now, when this almost 750-year-old sleeping beauty will have really hit her stride. We know now where our next holiday will be, and this lovely book's coming with us.

The Iron Ladies (Satree Lek) Youngyooth Thongkonthun| 2000 | B199 This high-camp portrait of a real-life volleyball team largely composed of gay and transgender players became a top-earner the year it debuted – Thai audiences couldn’t get enough of that sportsmovie plus sports-bra appeal. The team faces the usual challenges – ugly homophobia, fashion crises, antagonism between “straight-acting” gay and flaming-nelly players, before they predictably bring it all home. Corny, cheesy, way too far over the top, Iron Ladies is a sort of guilty pleasure, although important for its pioneering sensibility on queer issues. Although it may mash the screaming-queen button a few too many times and play too broadly, it’s got a good heart under all the makeup. Stick around for the end credits, when footage of the adorable real team appears. ar ts

Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok

Celadon

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby. The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community.

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer.You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms! Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.77 ). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anythingonce daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

$ under B400 $$ B400 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000 a service charge (typically

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 60

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

Year of the Tiger treats, Sofitel Silom

Chinese New Year, Inter continental Bangkok

Reservations will be a must at the best Chinese restaurants during the New Year celebrations… and the Intercontinental’s Summer Palace is no different. They’re laying on a super lavish spread, with a la carte specialties including Golden Raw Salmon and set menus ranging from B9.888++ to B18,888++. Lunch and dinner available. 02-656-0444

meal deals

Between Feb 13 and 15, the Sofitel’s art-decothemed Chinese Restaurant Shanghai 38 will beckon in the year of the Tiger with traditional Sino dishes, delicately prepared by Chef Jacky Chan. Notable dishes include barbecued suckling pig Hong Kong style, braised dried oyster with black moss and many, many more. 02-238-1991 ext. 1362

Rang Mahal, Rembrandt Hotel 100 Mile ‘Locavore’ Menu, Bed Supperclub

On Fri 26 Executive Chef Cameron Stuart will prepare a menu prepared only from ingredients sourced from within Thailand. They’re doing it as part of their ongoing sustainability efforts, but it’ll also prove a point to food-snobs across the capital: not all good-food is air-freighted food. B1,550 for 4 course set dinner and B2,150 with wine pairing. 02-255-7862~4

A sucker for a good hot thali? If so, march up to the Rembrandt Hotel’s elegant Indian restaurant quick sharp, as anyone buying one of these smorgasbords of tasty Indian dishes served on a metal tray in Feb gets another one free. Note the offer only applies to lunchtimes; B395 net. 02261-7100 ext.7532

River Dining Cruises

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished Manohra antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental). Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last two to three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. ■ CHAO PHRAYA CRUISE 02-541-5599 | www.chaophrayacruise.com ■ GRAND PEARL CRUISE 02-861-0255 | www.grandpearlcruise.com ■ HORIZON CRUISE The Shangri-La | 02-266-8165-6 | www.shangri-la.com ■ LOY NAVA 02-437-4932 | www.loynava.com ■ MAEYANANG The Oriental Hotel | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com ■ MANOHRA CRUISES 02-477-0770 | www.manohracruises.com ■ WAN FAH 02-222-8679 | www.wanfah.com ■ YOK YOR 02-863-0565 | www.yokyor.co.th bangkok 101

food & drinks

Grand Pearl

Food&Drinks

thai cuisine

Did you know?

Phat-Phak-Ruam (Stir Fried Mixed Vegetables)

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desser ts social affair in or savoury mousses Thailand. are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared. 62

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom kha gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam nua.......spicy beef salad Gai yang..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng phet pet yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng khiao wan gai.....green curry chicken Phad kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sacred basil Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao.......................coconut juice Nam krajeab .............rosella flower juice Nam matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam tao hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha yen............................Thai iced tea with condensed milk bangkok 101

ban

101

thai sweets Kanom Thai

The word Kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a Kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

‘Polamai’: Thai Fruits

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

Jackfuit (Kanoon)

A large fruit, reminiscent of the durian, though less spiky and stinky. As it ripens it gets increasingly sweeter. A versatile fruit it is used as a topping or ingredient in many desserts as well as savoury dishes like curries. Also, every part of the jackfruit can be consumed from the skin down to its seeds. The fruit known as kanoon in Thai is in season from now until May and Chonburi, Nakhon Ratchasima, and Uttaradit are famous for this produce.

Try This!

Thong Yip/Thong Yod/Foi Thong They are three separate concoctions though almost always muttered in the same breath. Heavy on the Portuguese influence, they consist of similar ingredients, egg yolks and tons of sugar, whipped up and shaped accordingly as pinches (Yip), drops (Yod) or shreds (Foi). The word Thong (pronounced tong) means gold and is reflected in the unmissably sunny hue.

Try also:

Coconut (Ma-Praow), Guava (Farang), Banana (Kluay), Papaya (Malakor), Mangosteen (Mong-Koot), Durian (Tu-Rian), Mango (Ma Muang), Rambutan (Ngoh), Lychee (Lyn-Chee) Thong Yip/Thong Yod/Foi Thong

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

treet food is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. So much so that if you took away the city’s rot khen (mobile vendor carts) it would begin to taste rather bland. Some open for lunch only; others open all night. Though common to every street, knowing which carts sell what, when and where is a skill many Bangkokians pride themselves on. Short on time? Then make for one of the following hotspots, where clusters of vendors sell good feeds for pocket-change.

ealikte

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

BBQ pork

When Andrew Zimmern, chef and host of the Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods program is in town, even my regular favorite food joints become a little bizarre to me! It’s not that Andrew is looking for bizarre things, but with new eyes simple things can take on a new twist. Recently, we went to Khlong Toey Market, the biggest, most bustling, most exciting wet fresh market in the heart of Bangkok.The rhythm of the market changes with the time of the day. In the early morning, when the street lamps still shine and dawn mist covers the ground, this massive market plays a wholesale beat.The place wakes at 3 am, and we arrived at the peak of the day, a little before 5 am. We started with a gentler part of the market, where the food is cooked and steaming hot, not freshly butchered as in the more raw sections. We found Mr. Chai, a third generation noodle seller who carries on his family recipe for making red BBQ pork. That morning he was still running between the noodle stand on the street side, where pork rib soup was boiling, and the footpath where the red marinated BBQ pork, moo daeng, was still baking. His family secret is in the marinade sauce, which uses Chinese herbs and a mixture of spices, and a cooking technique where the meat is baked over red-hot coals inside a terra cotta ‘dragon jar’ from Ratchaburi Province. It’s like a miniature volcano of heat and smoke, and the result is a meat that’s soft and tender like no other. Mr Chai sells moo daeng and moo krob (crispy three-layer pork), B.350 per k.g. each. He can deliver or cater your event too, with three days advance notice. Address: It's a tad tricky to find, but if you come from Suan Lum Night Bazaar, turn right at the big three-way junction before the Khlong Toey Market intersection. He’s in the little alleyway on the left. Open 4am-5pm every day. Tel: 084-6666507 64

food & drinks

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to revellers. Sample the delicate, hand-made egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am. Corner of Silom/Convent Road The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues. Pratunam Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark.There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door. Soi Rambutri (near Khao San Road) Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the stall in front of Swenson’s. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls. bangkok 101

restaurants

Thai Koon Sibb (map C4 ) Sathorn Soi 10 | BTS Chong Nonsi 02635-1574 | Tue – Sun 11am – 10pm | $$ Floral paintings, rattan-backed chairs, a classy yet rustic feel – this new Sathorn Soi 10 place is perfect for Bangkok ladies-who-lunch. Not that the food here is fancy; it isn’t. Koon Sibb does unpretentious and quite unusual soups, salads and curries, including such rarities as mieng pla tu (mackerel served with vegetables) and tom pred spicy soups. A big hit with us was the pla chon nam tok, whole snakehead fish laced with mint and a coarse, fizzingly spicy herb dressing – a divine tongue-twister. Portions are generous, so bring a friend, preferably one who can decipher florid Thai (no English menu yet, though the staff are helpful). With the hordes yet to arrive, you may find yourself the only punter in the place. But give it a few months and we reckon Koon Sibb will be firmly on the foodie circuit, mostly due to its sane prices and refusal to pander to weedy western tastebuds. Pop in for a quiet dinner and see if yours rise to the challenge.

คูณสิบ สาธร ซ.10

Koon Sibb

bangkok 101

Deva

DEVA BY M.L. KWANTIP DEVAKULA (map D4) 32/1 Soi Sukhumvit 39 (Phrom Phong) | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-5427 | www.devabkk.com | 11am-11pm | $$$ When not gracing the pages of hiso magazines celebrity chef ML Kwantip Devakula, can often be found entertaining at her restaurant, Deva. “It’s not fusion” she’ll chirp as you sit down amidst a posh forest of pine wood paneling accented with black woody finishes. And, despite some inner contention about dishes like sirloin steak smothered in a gaeng keow wan (green curry) gravy, you won’t be inclined to disagree. Her lunch and dinner menus – much of it made with imported produce – brims with Eastern nouveau cuisine ambition. Try the smoked salmon salad with spicy lime dressing; or Wagyu beef carpaccio with Asian mayo, for proof. Homier fair includes lovely red-glazed roast chicken with a rustic chilli and garlic paste. A board wine list and light piano on Fridays and Saturdays whips diners into a posh reverie. And if you fancy recreating the on-the-plate magic at home, book in for one of her intimate cooking classes.

NAJ (map C4) 42 Convent Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-2811 | 11:30am2:30pm, 5:30pm-11:30pm | $$ We admit we love eating Thai food in dignified surroundings, in old manors oozing past glories. It just adds something to the culinary discoveries you might stumble upon. A short stroll from Silom, this hidden mansion is an absolute insider tip. Spreading over two floors, the stylish restaurant kept a lot of the house’s charm but has been painstakingly renovated. Glimpse into Naj’s wine cellar through the glass floor. Sitting amid am elegant but informal crowd, you can listen to live classical Thai music before genuine Thai food arrives in healthy portions on fine china. Anything you might want to try will satisfy your taste buds but beware of the tang of some dishes. This is no beginner’s course in Thai cuisine. For a great pre-dinner rub down, neighbouring Ruen Nuad (Tel 02-632-2663) is one of our all time favourite Thai massage joints.

นาจ ถ.คอนแวนต์

Naj

เดวา บาย หม่อมหลวงขวัญทิพย์ เทวกุล ซ.สุขุมวิท 39 food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Amberrin

NEW SRIFA 33 (map D4) 12/19 Sukhumvit Soi 33 | BTS Phrom Phong | www.newsrifa33.com | 02-2582649 | 5pm-4am | $$ Even if it wasn’t in a soi full of hostess bars this smiley, family-run khao tom (read: rice soup) joint would still stand out. Open till 4am, it’s one of the friendliest and tastiest in town for a post-night-on-the-town pig-out. The freshly refurbished dining room is, on weekends, alive with Japanese salarymen and Thai-Indian families demolishing plate-upon-plate of its solid Thai-Chinese recipes. Many, like the divine hoi jor bpoo tot, crabmeat dumplings with plum sauce, are hand-me-downs dating back to 1955. Others, like the “non-stop” shiitake mushrooms, newcomers introduced by the fourth-generation. The menu is huge, but should you not find your fave stir-fry, seafood, salad, soup or jay (vegetarian) dish the long-serving chef makes to order. Add home-delivery, agreeable décor – large banquet tables and abstract Oriental prints – and New Srifa 33 is leagues above your average downat-heel khoa tom joint. For tunately the prices aren’t.

นิวศรีฟ้า33 สุขุมวิท ซ.33

International Amberrin Café (map E4) Thong Lor Soi 13 | BTS Thong Lor | 02185-2698-9 | 11am – 10pm | $ Instead of adding to the collection of dessert cafes that seem to flood the sois of Thonglor, Amberrin Café took a cue from it’s successful older brother, Kaithong restaurant, and transformed itself into a delectable eatery with a swank ambiance that certainly keeps up with the Joneses. The menu stems from Kaithong, doused with Cantonese dishes and all sprinkled with Thai flavor. This family of chefs imports many ingredients straight from Hong Kong,

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making signature creations that cry out to hungry stomachs and provoke full bellies to keep eating. We started with smoked duck breast over fresh organic mixed greens all topped with mamma’s secret Koma dressing. Then came the Hong Kong style Raad Na with a choice of pork or Australian beef – no need to apply any additional spices, this gravy already has it all. And the Asian fusion desert,Thai mango and Japanese pudding covered in coconut milk, will have you ordering seconds. Just keep in mind it’s a cash only joint, so you can leave your plastic at home.

แอมเบอร์ริน คาเฟ่ ทองหล่อ ซ.13

bangkok 101

Rossini's

TESSA TERRACE (map E4) 17 Thong Lo Soi 23 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-185-1457 | www.tessahomemade. com | Tue–Sun 9:30-22:00 | $ Now well settled in its new location, the cosier and more casual sister of the original restaurant Tessa (which now sits right on the other side of the soi) is ready to tantalize your taste buds once again with its homemade European fare. The razor-thin tuna carpaccio or the frog leg salad are a perfect way to start off your meal, after which you can sample one of the many pastas on offer (we loved the spaghetti with shrimp roe and river prawns) or perhaps something more substantial, like the trout aux amandes. As for dessert, you’re probably sick of seeing warm chocolate cake on every menu these days, but Tessa insists that they were ahead of the trend and started serving up these oozing morsels of molten goodness way before everyone else. If you’d like to do more than just eat, there’s a snazzy new cooking studio ready to offer classes right on the premises.

เทสซ่า เทอเรซ ทองหล่อ ซ. 23

bangkok 101

Italian ROSSINI’S (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 | www.luxurycollection.com/bangkok | noon-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm | $$$ This beauty of a restaurant is a dramatic yet cosy place where welldressed local gourmets come for an intimate night out, filled with fantastic food. Tiled floors, huge exposed beams, cream-coloured walls – and fireplaces! It’s a Marchese’s summer house in Umbria. All this can be a bit intimidating (especially when you’re

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not dressed to the occasion, though no one would ever remark on this), but arriving prepared guarantees delicious hours. The brand-new chef has injected the regular menu with some of his creations. He obviously loves his aquatic creatures and he excels in preparing them in a simple, but excelling way. The classic Italian food is authentic and makes no concessions to wimpy likings: flavours are strong, spices abundant. For watered down stuff you better go somewhere else.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ถ.สุขุมวิท

Food&Drinks

chic bangkok Cheryl Tseng

Harvey

Harvey seems to grasp the currents that attract the wellheeled locals. At lunch, its airy interior attracts the leisure crowd. In the evening, the mood shifts to clandestine ambiance with fancy chandeliers presiding over the posh bar with comfortable leather sofa chairs. While the pasta is popular among local clientele, the must-haves are the seductive pan-fried foie gras with mashed chestnuts, Best for Californian raspberry and peach sauce; sizzling WHERE 129 Thonglor Soi 9, charcoal-grilled Australian Kobe Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-712-9911, and Japan’s Matsuzaka beef; live www.harvey.in.th Canadian lobsters tossed with BTS Thong Lo Open noon – savoury tomato and basil sauce. On 2pm, 6pm – 11:30pm Price $$ the other hand, light alternatives of crab meat and grilled rock lobster with avocado, tuna tartar with ginger, tiger prawns salad, and baked sole fillet are equally wonderful. Chef presents his dishes like work of modern art, dabbles with fruit and citrustinged sauces in Jackson Pollock-inspired strokes. Desserts to note: chocolate fondant made with Belgium chocolate or crème brulee tinged with Bailey’s liqueur. Upstairs, the three beautifully rendered private rooms are always in high demand. Excellent wine list.

ฮาร์วีย์ ทองหล่อ ซ.9

Chic Restaurants & Bars Bangkok is a compact food and style lover’s bible showcasing Bangkok’s most fabulous venues for dining and drinking. Global gourmand Cheryl Tseng leads you to the capital’s finest food, and its most striking décor. Each month we take a sneak peek inside, and share a taste here. A definite must-have for travelling foodies, get yourself a copy of the new 3rd edition at local book shops, or visit www.chicasia.com.

food & drinks

bangkok 101

Belgium

Coo Curry

Duc de Praslin (map D4) Fenix Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 31 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-258-3200 | www.gallothai.com | 7am – 9pm | $ Now that chocolate is “healthy” we don’t have to feel guilty about gorging on the stuff. And those living in Bangkok have even more reason to celebrate: Duc de Praslin, the Belgianowned producer of some of the finest Duc de Praslin bon bons known to man has its own sit-down café here. Despite the staid Indian mall-like exterior of Fenix Tower, the Coo Curry (map C4) café boasts an amiable old-world 2210/32 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin European atmosphere that is more Rd. | BTS Chong Nosi | 02-678-1300 | Brussels than Bangkok. Kick back www.coocurrycafe.blogspot.com | Tuewith an exellent espresso (served Sun 10:30am-10pm | $$ with two complimentary chocolates), While Indian food has grown in or pick and choose a custom box popularity here there’s still a certain of chocolate to take home. Not reticence among most Thais, for surprisingly, the café is also home to whom it’s rich, creamy, often unctuous what must be the richest chocolat curries don’t go down well. New chaud in town, made from shards of arrival Coo Curry aims to educate the bittersweet chocolate steamed with unenlightened by serving them a greatest milk and sugar. Healthy and delicious hits package in a setting that pushes their it’s almost too good to be true. buttons – a Morocco-Indian inspired café, ฟีนิกซ์ทาวเวอร์ ปากซอยสุขุมวิท 31 complete with cushions and wifi. For a main, the mutton curry is a success, even

if the potatoes were a tad undercooked on our trip. So too the roti bread, perfect for scooping its tender morsels of lamb up with. Chef Nicky also does a decent Biriyani, a huge chicken leg arriving buried in exotically-spiced Basmati rice; not to mention some inter dishes like strip-loin steak. Thick, frothy fruit lassis cool any mouth burn; and there’s wine and a well-stocked cake display case if you’re partial. All in all the cooking is reliably good here, though we worry the location – down a no-name soi just off Narithiwat Road – means few will get to sample it.

คูเคอร์รี่ ถ.นราธิวาสราชนครินทร์ (ซ. เดียวกับสามย่านซีฟู้ด)

Valentine’s Day Dinner February 14th Sunday Chef Luca’s Specially Designed Menu

With Live Jazz Music 6pm till Late

For A Lovely Evening

La Bottega Italian Deli & Restaurant Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49, BTS Thong Lo, Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5.30pm-11pm deli hours Tue-Sun 10am-8pm email: la.bottega.di.luca@gmail.com Tel: 02-204-1730-1

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Neighbourhood Nosh: Phra Athit Road Santi Chaiprakarn Park Ph

Chao Phraya River Phra Athit Pier

11 12

Guay Jub Yuan

bu tri

am iR

m Ra

Curving between the river and the tourist sprawl of Khao San Road, Phra Athit is one of our favourite roads in the city. We love nonchalantly sipping coffee in its kooky shophouse cafés or enjoying the river breezes as backpackers practice their capoiera moves in the park. Then there’s the food: there are more yummy hole-inthe-walls on this historic, tree-shaded strip than a stomach can handle, making repeat visits a big Bangkok must. Approaching from the Banglamphu Road end, the first eatery of note is Café Primavera [1]. Featuring tables set with checked linens, it’s a moody little Italian joint serving sizeable thincrust pizzas and al dente pastas; a nice place to while away an hour while you munch bruschettas, sip coffee and kick back to jazz. Further down is Guay Jub Yuan [2]. A bare shophouse with Thai signage and tables that spill onto the narrow street, we’ve not eaten here yet but it was doing a roaring trade with locals the last Saturday we walked by. What do they serve? Vietnamese-style rice noodles. Next door is Pua Kee [3], a Chinese noodle shop with a spacious, stuck-in-the-1950s dining room; again popular with Thais. 70

Each month we stake out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the nitty gritty in an easily digestible, bite-size format.

tri

na ha m i C ra So ngk So

t 13 a A14

hit

8 7 6

Walk down, towards the Phra Sumen Fortress on your right, and you’ll find Joy Luck Club [4] (tiny Thai restaurant) and the Mae*Ny [5] (grungy bar) next to it. Like most of its artsy twentysomething customers, Mae*Ny doesn’t really kick into gear until sundown, when its multi-coloured streetside tables groan with booze and plates of gap klaem (beer snacks). Just across from the fortress is a four-tabler of Lilliputian proportions: Mister Pas [6]. Inside, a girlfriendboyfriend duo rustles up international dishes (think shrimp and spinach quesadillas and Hawaiian chicken bacon burgers) right in front of you. Good, earnestly cooked tucker. Swedish furniture and concrete walls hung with art lend it more interior flair than most. Next door is esteemed bakery, Ann’s Sweet [7], where a local Thammasat uni student or two can usually be found getting their cheesecake fix. Beside it is the most guidebook-plugged eatery in the whole city: Roti Mataba [8]. Why so much love? Simply put, its Indian-style flatbreads, prepped live and served with pungent southern curries, are divine – join the queue then tuck in. Krua Nopparat, [9] two doors down, does Isaan favourites in a plain but air-conditioned setting, while Coffee & More [10] serves what it says on the tin in a charming colonial house within the Baan Phra Athit complex, currently home to a controversial media group food & drinks

(thus the fence netting and jumpy bodyguards). On the river side of the road are two notable establishments of a different ilk from the slim shophouse sort: The Old Phra Athit Pier [11] (a wooden deck serving touristy Thai food); and Aquatini [12] (a nice al fresco terrace belonging to a small hotel; so-so international and Thai; good for a riverside sundown). Back on the street, another shophouse parade presents yet more eating choices, as if you needed them. Our pick of this lot includes Papaya Salad @ Phra Athit [13] with its solid Isaan staples like som-tum, tom saep soups and laab (minced meat salads); Rakk [14], an attractive little Thai restaurant; and Saffron [15], another long-standing cake shop that bakes its selection fresh each day on-site. Plowing on, Korean Namoo [16] makes up for its shambolic looks with a B300 Korean buffet; and Hemlock [17] is Phra Athit Road’s most elegant restaurant by far. Expect atypical Thai food (try the meang kam and khao hor bai bau and you’ll see what we mean), art exhibitions and a Mediterranean feel suited to cheap yet cosy dates. Thirsty? Peppered among this delectable confection are all manner of student haunts where you sink suds with mop-haired arts students from the nearby Thammasat university; enjoy.

bangkok 101

Food courts

Much as we love cheap and tasty street food, non-wobbly tables and a little air-conditioning can go a long way. That’s why the Thai god of grub invented food courts! MBK: The Food Center (6F, 10am9pm) is cheap, chaotic and jampacked with yummy Thai grub. Most dishes are around the B40 mark. Just below the Food Centre is the Fifth Food Avenue (5F, 10am-9:30pm), a more upmarket collection of independent eateries (figure B150 for a dish) with good variety of international food, including Greek, seafood and Mexican options. Siam Centre: If you have a thing for molded plastic seats and vivid orange colour schemes, then baby, you’ve just hit the motherlode. Migraine-inducing décor aside, Food for Fun (4F, 9am-9pm) is a cheap and cheerful spot where B40-50 gets you a huge pile of reasonable Thai grub and the chance to tut at spiky-haired teenagers. Paragon: You can stare at a table-top aquarium while you munch your noodles; but you’re paying about B70 for those noodles. And they ain’t all that. The Food Court (B1, 10am10pm) dining hall gets packed too, making seats hard to come by and the atmosphere far from relaxing. CentralWorld: Flavour (7F, 10am-10pm) at the back of the Food Hall supermarket is really comfortable and has some cracking options at good prices. Figure on B50 a dish. Also in CentralWorld, on the seventh floor of Zen department store, is Food Loft (10am-10pm). Easily the most successful attempt at a mid-range food court, this plush, glass-walled offers up top-notch international fare. Try the Vietnamese noodle salad at B110. There’s another branch of Food Loft at Central Chitlom. Emporium: Probably the nicest food court on the mall-beat is the Food Court (5F, 10am-9:45) at Emporium. Clean, decked out like a library and with pleasant views over Benjasiri Park, the Food Court has lots of good Thai/ Chinese standards priced at B50-60. bangkok 101

VALENTINE’S DAY TABLES

Our pick of Bangkok’s most romantic rose-andcandelight tables to help you seduce your Valentine’s Day date. Reservations essential. Bo.Lan 42 Soi Pichai | Ronnarong, Sukhumvit Soi 26 | 02-260-2962 | Tue-Sun 6.30pm-10.30pm | $$$ One of the most exciting new arrivals of 2009, Bo.lan sprints straight to the front of the Thai pack with its singular food: obscure old Thai recipes executed with market-fresh ingredients and modern panache. Run by two former hands at famous London Thai restaurant Nahm, their 10-course set menu opens with a shot of yaa dong, a local liquor aphrodisiac. Food: Unusual Thai The Deck Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 02-221-9158 | 11am-10pm | www.arunresidence. com/dining.htm | $$ The best tables at this riverside restaurant in the Old City are among the most heartmelting in town, as they overlook the floodlit Wat Arun, a monumental Khmer-style temple whose nightlight reflection ripples enigmatically off the river between you. Only adding to its seductiveness the rooftop bar here, Amorosa, is perfect for postprandial cocktails and kisses. Food: Modern Thai Concerto F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-2665333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am | $$$ This urbane Italian restaurant features well-spaced linenclad tables, delicate candles and a piano trio playing jazz in the corner – perfect cultured dinner-date material. After supping on classy dishes like marinated tuna maguro with pomelo salad and black olive tapenade, murmur sweet nothings between world-class performances at the elegant jazz club, Niu’s on Silom, downstairs. Food: Italian

food & drinks

Food&Drinks Sunrise Tacos

Vietnamese

Mexican Sunrise Tacos (map D3) 236/3-4 Sukhumvit Rd (near Time Square Bldg) |BTS Asok | 02-229-4851 | daily 24hrs | www.sunrisetacos.com |$ Within a few months of opening, Sunrise became so successful that affable owner Greg Lange expanded to new locations in the city’s oh-so-hiso shopping malls, Emporium and Siam Paragon. These are a step up from the original Asok location, which features a small counter-only and a neighbouring sit down place overlooking a dreary parking lot. But taco addicts happily brave the spotty service and long

dim-sum featured

waits to dine at one of Thailand’s best Mexican joints, which serves up homemade tortillas, drippingly tender carnitas, and kicky salsas and margaritas. Burritos are hefty and well-priced, and even the usual weakest links – chicke and ground beef fillings – are full of flavor. The guacamole is made from imported Aussie avocados, making it a pricier yet all the more tasty option. The carne asada and barbacoa beef can be tougher than we’d like, but minor quibbles, though, for such a friendly, gutbustingly satisfying place. They’re open 24 hours a day – perfect for vampire outings.

ซันไรส์ ทาโก้ส์ สุขุมวิท ใกล้ตึกไทม์สแควร์

Saigon Rimsai (map E4) 108/4, Sukhumvit Soi 65 | 02-714-2207 | www.saigonrimsai.com | 11am-10pm | $ Saigon Rimsai must be doing something right – it’s packed with Thais. Part of the appeal is the space – warmly lit, with a view over the tranquil garden-seating area, it makes everything pretty. The fresh food is served up in generous and photogenic portions – fried spring rolls are crisp and succulent, rice-paper wrappers are supple rather than sticky, vegetables have satisfying snap. Rimsai initially lulls with its lovely décor and quality ingredients, but diners may find themselves snoozing at the table – service is sweet but slow, and where’s the kick from the dipping sauces and spicing? Great Vietnamese cooking balances freshness and funk, delicacy and full-bodied flavor. Rimsai only delivers half of the equation – well-done though that half may be. The many Thai ladies dining here don’t seem to mind, but we can’t help but think that with dining potential like this, it’s a pity to be just pretty.

ไซง่อน ริมไทร สุขุมวิท ซ.65

HAI TIEN LO

Sweeping 22nd floor views over the city, the grounds of the illustrious Royal Bangkok Sports Club rolling out before you… But the city’s Thai-Chinese community don’t flock to this wellknown dim sum joint for vistas. No siree. Try the resident Singaporean chef and his authentic 25-item strong menu: classic standards like har kow and shui mai; rather more interesting and uncommon morsels like steamed minced shrimp and crab’s leg with curry sauce; delicate steamed cod fish with picked vegetable dumplings. If basket after steaming basket doesn’t fill you up – and, frankly, that’s unlikely – the all-you-canWHERE Pan Pacific Bangkok 952 eat, a la carte-style menu is further Rama IV Rd(map C3) BTS Sala complimented with a special daily Daeng MRT Silom, 02-632-9000 soup, appetiser and dessert. A OPEN daily Lunch 11:30am– stonking good feed for a very sane 2:30 pm, Dinner 6pm– 10:30pm B580++ per person. PRICE $$$ (buffet Mon – Sat รร. แพนแปซิฟิค ถ. พระราม4 11:30am – 2:30pm, B620++) 72

food & drinks

bangkok 101

featured

restaurant

ANTONIO’S

It only takes a few seconds after crossing the threshold of this classy new Italian to be struck by the passion of the place. From the built-to-last brick and glass finishes to the attentiveness of Antonio himself, who works the place like a circus ringmaster, this 1960s Thai townhouse gone Italian classic is impeccably conceived and staffed. Well-spaced white-linen tables and a black marble topped bar for aperitifs fill the moodily lit first floor with garden; two private rooms for parties of four and up the second. The first page of the menu tells Antonio’s WHERE 26 Soi Sukhumvit life-story, but even more compelling is 31 BTS Phrom Phong, the fact that every dish on it is made 02-662-1001, 02-662-0072 with the finest imported produce the OPEN 6pm - midnight gregarious Italian-Australian can get PRICE $$ his hands on. A starter of asparagus in a strong gorgonzola sauce came wrapped in Parma Ham; mussels, sautéed in white wine, garlic and olive oil, from Brittany. His near legendary homemade ravioli arrived slathered in a rich, smoky porcini mushroom sauce (mopping it up with their fresh-baked focaccia is a must). Marbled Australian rib-eye steak, shown to the table before cooking and served with roasted vegetables, was succulent and dripping with flavour; so too the Phuket lobster linguine. Desserts deport themselves equally well (think panna cotta with pistachio cream and raspberry sauce) and the wine list features mostly Italian and a very quaffable house red. Tables are already filling up here fast of an evening, most with regulars and returnees, and we’re in absolutely no doubt as to why – Antonio’s is top-drawer.

แอนโตนิโอ สุขุมวิท 31

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Banyan Tree n Apsara 4-course Thai set menu onboard a converted rice barge (B6,000 nett per couple) n Pier 59 4-course set menu (B10,000 net per couple); 5-course set menu with paired wine (B12,000 net per couple) n Vertigo 5-course set dinner with glass of champagne (B17,000 per couple) Call 02-679-1200 La Bottega di Luca Celebrate San Valentino with a special set menu at this classy Italian. Choose from a selection of 4 appetizers, pastas, main courses and desserts and enjoy a special promotion on sparkling wine and champagne. Live jazz from 6pm and complimentary flowers for her. Call 02-204-1730~1 Rembrandt Hotel & Towers Relish a candlelight dinner with wine at any of this hotel’s restaurants before retreating to your Terrace suite with a bed full of roses. Revitalize the next morning in the spa. (B17,777 net per couple, 8-14 Feb) Call 02-261-7100

Pullman Bangkok King Power n DéjàVu Executive Chef Sylvain Royer presents a set menu featuring Foie gras terrine, French oysters and much more (B2,100 nett for two including 1 bottle of Prosecco rose and free pillow cake) n Wine Pub A delectable Valentine’s platter for two (B800 nett) Call 02-680-9999 Bed Supperclub As Valentine’s and Chinese New Year converge this year, the stark white gastro-club is thinking synergy. Chinese stylings, inspired by Wong Kar Wai’s ravishing arthouse film ‘In the Mood for Love’, will snuggle up with a romantic ambience. A four-course set dinner including aphrodisiac welcome drink costs B5,500 per couple. Call 02-255-7862~4 Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit n Bar Su At the hotel’s snazzy antihouse-music club, Valentine’s Day get a love story platter for two and glass of champagne n Basil A tantalizing Thai set menu for two (B1,700++ per person) n The Living Room A seafood & oyster buffet complimented by swinging live jazz (B1,800++ per person including two standard drinks) n Orchid Café A gourmet international buffet dinner inspired by cupid and starring a glass of sparkling prosecco (B1,800++ per person) n Rossini’s An exquisite Italian six-course set menu (B8,600++ per couple including bottle of champagne and stay in a deluxe room; B5,000++ for dinner only) Call 02-649-8368

food & drinks

Sofitel Silom n V9 A candle-lit dinner soundtracked by DJs spinning seductive jazz, lounge and house (B3,000 net per couple; B5,400 net including wine).You can also surprise your valentine with an stay in a luxury Club Sofitel Room including breakfast in bed (B4,253++). Call 02-238-1991 ext. 1351 The Sukhothai n Celadon Supp on a ‘Dok Rak’ Thai set dinner (B2,999++ per couple) n La Scala Devour a delectable 6-course Italian dinner with complimentary His & Hers Giorgio Armani perfume gift set (B4,999++ per couple). Or, poolside beside your own private sala with pre-dinner canapés and Moët & Chandon Champagne (B15,000++ per couple) or Duval Leroy Champagne (B10,000++ per couple). n Salon Say it best with a Valentine’s Chocolate Buffet (B1,600++ per couple) Call 02-344-8888 email promotions@sukhothai.com Grand Millennium Sukhumvit n Atelier Special Valentine’s buffet with free flow prosecco (B,2900++ per couple) n Tapas Y Vino 4-course Spanish set (B2,900++) n Terra Rocku 5-course Italian and Japanese (B3,500++) Call 02-204-4000 / email fb@ grandmillenniumskv.com bangkok 101

brunching

runching is big in Bangkok. All five-star hotels and respectable cafés do them. Some are kid-friendly, others are strictly adult.You can get tipsy at some, while others focus on music. Curing a hangover? Need to eat al fresco? We offer you a sampling of Bangkok’s best.

featured

brunch Crepes&Co

Finding the perfect brunch among the city’s standalone eateries is a challenge. But even the allure of an ever-increasing range of five-star hotel brunches could not keep away the loyal droves of Bangkok residents who flock here every weekend. Since opening in 1996, Crêpes and Co. has become a true Bangkok WHERE 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi institution. Popular with visitors as well as 12 (map D3), 02-653-3990, residents, it offers easy comfort and grace, with www.crepes.co.th OPEN a main dining room overlooking a busy open 9am-midnight (open from kitchen and highly-coveted outdoor tables with 8am on Sundays) BTS Asok, Arabic-style garden seating that turn brunch MRT Sukhumvit into a tropical picnic. Frenchman Serge Bruttin PRICE B250-450++ has incorporated culinary influences from everywhere he’s lived – including his native France, as well as Greece, Spain, the Middle East and Morocco (until January they’re celebrating the latter). Bruttin uses his culinary expertise and his travels around the world to create a menu that gives comfort food a multi-ethnic flair. You’ll find the usual brunch fare, with specialty coffees and teas, fresh-squeezed juices, freshbaked breads and exceptional eggs benedict. But, you’ll also find 100 varieties of savory, sweet and flambé crepes, which can be filled with anything from bacon and eggs to curried chicken, as well as Lebanese-style salads, Moroccan tapas and more. Easy-to-order, multiplechoice brunch sets ranging from B250-450++ allow you to build your own brunch, depending on your mood and appetite. While brunch at Crêpes & Co. is liveliest on Saturdays and Sundays, when waiting for a table is the norm, remember that brunch is served here every day, all day, so you don’t have to wait for the weekend.

เครป แอนด์ โค สุขุมวิท 12

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

High Teas

tea

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea Whittard of Chelsea

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Established in 1886, this venerable tea company is more English than a rainy Saturday on Wigan Pier. However, connoisseurs expecting the afternoon high tea ritual from Whittard of Chelsea beware. Conspicuously absent from this open-plan setup on the gleaming ground floor of Siam Paragon are those classic tea-time leitmotifs – spouted teapots and scone-brimming snack tiers. On the plus side, Whittard’s high-grade blends are among the most palate pleasing and quickening we’ve tasted – and arrive in mugs harbouring a nifty plastic tealeaf strainer (no drippy teabags!). Take to a low-slung Victorian garden chair beneath a navy-blue umbrella. Order a robust Darjeeling or a light and smoky Earl Grey. The damp English country garden décor veers towards being kitsch; but, when leant back and cradling your full-bodied cuppa, the affectation is still a soothing stress reliever. Beside all the classic brews, the tea list caters comprehensively for WHERE Siam Paragon G new-wave slurpers. Do try one of their funky Fl. (map C3) BTS Siam, 02flavoured teas or quirky fruit/herbal infusions; 610-7519 hot or iced. “Sacrilege!” we squealed on spotting OPEN daily 10am-10pm the apple crumble tea latte – but, we admit, PRICE $ with hints of cinnamon and vanilla, they’re undeniably quaffable. Especially when teamed with one of their quite decadent cakes. Those dissatisfied with this tea-shop Darwinism – the set-up here is clearly adapted to suit quick stop-and-slurp shoppers – can buy loose-leaf packs and teapot sets from the adjoining shop. Whittard are moving with the times… but that doesn’t mean you have to.

สยามพารากอน

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

■ Sukhumvit Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either.

Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you. Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-3919634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02-238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half restaurant, half art gallery with innovative Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine ■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare. ■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you’re around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

Mayompuri 22 Chakraphong Rd | 02-629-3883 | until 1am | www.mayompuri.com Garden dining amidst colonial architecture has both Thai and Western dishes.

late-night dining

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.96) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.64). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Tom Yum Kung 9 Trokmayom | Off Khao San Rd. towards Police Station (Look for the big sign) | 02-629-1818 | until 2am | www. tomyumkungkhaosan.com Reasonably priced Thai food. The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier.

Sunrise Tacos

Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Thai and International Food

Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya. Bug and Bee

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

sweet treats

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

Sugaroma

The sweetness isn’t just in the aromas that hit you as its name suggests, but also in the sugary décor of this cute little café with its delicately feminine setup and flowery colour schemes. With pinks, whites and everything nice popping up everywhere you look whether on the walls, the polka-dotted arm chairs or in the cake display, this tiny little nook off Soi Ekkamai will surely be a hit amongst ladies looking to indulge in some decadent desserts and gossip the afternoon away, WHERE 60 Ekkamai or for men trying to woo that special someone. With Soi 12 BTS Ekkamai, 02a revolving menu of no less than twenty cakes which 381-9384, 02-713-3389 are freshly baked out back each and every single day, OPEN 11am – 9pm you can expect something new on every visit. Popular PRICE $ amongst students from the nearby international school and their respective parents this is a favourite hangout for many residents in their area. Though consisting of two floors, there isn’t much seating space available as the upper level is used to hold baking workshops run by Sugaroma’s owners who were schooled at the famous Le Cordon Bleu culinary institute. The selection of desserts, like everything else here, lean towards the cute and delicate, like their light and fluffy Strawberry Shortcake or the rich and velvety Chocolate Macadamia Cake. With fairly small portions you can go crazy and order up at least a couple of these to share without feeling too guilty. One point to remember: the store is curiously shut on Fridays, when coffees and cakes usually aren’t on the minds of locals cruising through Ekkamai.

ชูการ์โรมา เอกมัย ซ.12

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

Buffet Venues ■ TASTE Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | 6am – 11pm | Breakfast B650++, Lunch 790++, Dinner B1,100++ ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | noon-2.30pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ Panorama Restauarant Pan Pacific Bangkok | 02-632-9000 | 6:30am – 10:30am, 11:30am – 2:30pm | Breakfast 695 net, Lunch 690++ ■ No.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ Lord jim’s buffet Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ Orchid Café Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ Citi Bistro Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10pm | lunch B650net, dinner B1,300net

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

all you can eat

featured

ORCHID CAFÉ

buffet

“This place is colossal!” is your first thought on entering the Orchid Café, a mothership-sized dome diner on the reception level of the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. But who’s complaining? A huge restaurant may not bode well for intimacy; but it does bode well for a huge spread. Lo and behold, that’s exactly what you encounter here: a banquet-sized round table crammed with highend foods. Orbiting this small gastronomic planet – plate in hand, eyes agog – reveals WHERE Sheraton Grande a smorgasbord of international and AsianSukhumvit (mapD3) BTS Asok, ish fare. Asparagus with tartar sauce, 02-649-8888 OPEN 11:30am scallops in blood orange sauce, pastas, - 2:30pm & 6:30pm -10:30pm curries, salads, a fabulously juicy and flaky PRICE Lunch B760++, Dinner choo chee pla salmon… Seriously, you can do B1,050++ laps of this beauty and never see the same dish twice. Lone buffet stations floating in the far corner include a Japanese sushi bar (savour that melt-in-your-mouth sashimi); a cooking-station serving tender roast lamb alongside noodles, satay and dim sum (including top-notch sala paow); a groaning dessert station (a divine panna cotta with dry figs); as well as a cheeseboard (God bless you Gorgonzola!). It might not be the best this town has to offer – some Thai dishes lack zing, soft drinks aren’t included – but at B760++ this all-you-can-stomach, for sheer breadth alone, is hard to disparage. Yes, this one’s a colossus.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ถ.สุขุมวิท

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

wine

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine featured

wıne bar

Tapas Y Vino

Tinged with the flavours of Spain, the Grand Millennium Sukhumvit’s wine bar is a swank place to get together with like-minded friends for a convivial evening of wine and fine finger food. And if you’re a fledgling oenophile, don’t despair. The wine list not only groups the offerings by grape variety (rather than by region) but includes a concise explanation of each. The selection is on the better side of good with prices that are very easy on the hip pocket. Equally interesting is the tapas menu – as many as 80 cold and hot WHERE Grand Millennium dishes, from Spanish cheese to succulent Sukhumvit, 30 Sukhumvit 21 seafood and imported beef to paella for (Asok) rd. BTS asok MRT two. The prices will be a pleasant surprise. Sukhumvit, 02-204-4158 Asked for his choice, sommelier Chanya OPEN Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm Ngamrungwong picked an Italian red, and a Long Neck Sauvignon blanc from South Africa, complemented by spinach empanadas with raisin and pine nuts, goat’s cheese fritters with sweet pepper dip, baked green mussels with almond and garlic butter, and a must-have, sea scallops sautéed with chorizo and orange. As wine bars go, definitely worth a visit.

รร.แกรนด์มิลเลเนียมสุขุมวิท สุขุมวิท21 (อโศก)

food & drinks

Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

941 Sukhumvit Rd. Live Band Between Sukhumvit 51-53 Thu - Sat 8 PM - Midnight Mon - Sat 5.30 PM - 12.30 AM For Reservation Tel: 02-662-7605 www.wineandme51.com

Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Cowboy (btw sois 21 & 23). And voguish but affordable amount of options – so much more than just the hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and whisky-sippin’ naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot sois of Thong A night out here can easily have you flitting between Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.95) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.94), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.86. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can. The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.86), there’s something for all. Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here. Supperclub (p.84) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes – n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque Soi where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks. 82

nightlife

bangkok 101

Nightlife

Q Bar

nightclubs Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no.

Bed Supperclub

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past seven years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 80’s pop hits with house music.

เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4,Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping . ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 nightlife

808 (map D3) RCA, block C | 02-203-1043 | MRT Pra ram 9 | www.808bangkok.com | 9am-late This slick nightclub – all imposing red lighting, exposed brick and steelcladding – has been a hit with clubbers ever since it landed on RCA in 2007. The reason: the consistently worldclass line-up. Grandmaster Flash, James Lavelle and Derrick May to name but a few global DJ giants, have all rocked this post-industrial warehouse, aided in no small part by the ear-drum/body/ table rattling sound-system (watch that drink dance!). Head up to the balcony for a comfy leather perch, or gyrate with the diehards on the dancefloor. Entrance prices vary depending on who is gracing the decks that night.

เอท โอ เอท อาร์ซีเอ บลอกซี

CLUB CULTURE (map C3) Sri Ayutthaya Rd (opp. Siam City Hotel) | BTS Phaya Thai | 08-9497-8422 | www.club-culture-bkk.com | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am | B400 (incl. 2 drinks) This modish 1,000-capacity club attracts a cross-cultural mix of trendy Thais and expats and the diversity is mirrored in the music policy. They promote new talent, while also bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of breakbeat, electronica, trance, indie rock, drum ‘n’ bass and house music. Climb carpeted steps, pass through a curtained stairwell and you’ll enter a space where chandeliers and Thai wood carvings hang from the ceiling. Strategically placed structures, great for resting an elbow or a drink, dot the open-plan dance floor, surrounded by plush sofas and stools. It’s a beautiful building but the toilets lack a little finesse.

คลับ คัลเจอร์ ถ. ศรีอยุธยา

bangkok 101

Demo

The Club (map A3) 123 Khao San Rd,Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-1010 | www.theclubkhaosan. com | B100 (including 1 drink) The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a castle on Khao San Road. The spiral staircase of the central DJ platform and sky-high windows lend a fairy-tale vibe that would make Rapunzel want to let her hair down and hang loose. Musicwise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, from psy-trance to full on, cranium-rattling electro and techno. Ladies night on Thursdays treats the crowd to live percussion, and dancers entertain on Friday and Saturday nights. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.

เดอะ คลับ ถ. ข้าวสาร

DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970-1 | 8pm1am | free (except one-off parties) Is Demo a sign of clubs to come in Thonglor? Or just a blip on the slickly gentrified area’s cookie-cutter nightclub factory line? Time will tell. In the meantime, we strongly suggest you check out this ramshackle tenement building turned moody and very gritty warehouse. Not only does it look like a venue you’d find in shabby, hipsterheaving East London. It sounds like bangkok 101

one too: instead of mainstream hiphop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast trendy nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school – kudos! Further boosting its streetcool hip quotient, 1980s Brooklynstyle graffiti covers the brick walls and a vintage white Toyota Celica gleams in one corner. They offer a huge range of (quite expensive) beers, shots and cocktails and, though it’s only recently opened, weekends are already packed out with an international crowd.

เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ.10

GLOW (map D3) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | www.glowbkk.com | 6pm-2am This boutique club/bar/lounge challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-to-night, with deep-house and electro looming large and no hip-hop (hurrah!). Foxy coyote girls, dancing on the bar, make queuing for drinks here something of a guilty pleasure. For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool and up-todate website.

โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ.23

nightlife

Cabarets MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Rd | 02-294-7381-2 | show time 7:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm) | B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ ถ.พระราม3

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ่ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

Threesixty

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Red Sky (map C3) Centara Grand Hotel, Rama 1 Road | BTS Chid Lom/Siam | 02-100-1234 | www.centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm – 1am Hi-octane views, svelte Martinis, rattan loungers to enjoy them on. Ironically, the only thing you won’t be seeing at Centara Grande’s chicly lit al fresco bar is red. When not gasping at the city flickering like a circuit-board beneath you, let yourself be entertained by the boomerang-like edifice changing colour above the translucent bar; or stargaze into the fibre optic solar system embedded in the curving, wood-panel wall. Sip a bottle from their space-age wine cellar, or a well-mixed cocktail; they shake everything from Ying Yangs to classic Caipirinhas. Fifty five floors below, it’s all car horns and consumer frenzy, but up here, glass in hand, live jazz wafting through the ether, not even a gust of wind can upset the cosmic balance – glass barriers mean there are, virtually, none.

รร.เซ็นทารา แกรนด์ เซ็นทรัล เวิลด์ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart-casual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

bangkok 101

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee.The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe.The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

รร. โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

Panorama

Panorama Pan Pacific Bangkok, Rama IV Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for interminably hot or drizzly nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter found in the partitioned area at the rear of the Pan Pacific’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and up over downtown – not quite breathtaking, but still very Bangkok.

รร. แพนแปซิฟิค ถ.พระราม 4

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

bangkok 101

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterraneanish Amorosa.The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day of temple hopping. And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant,The Deck, and 6 lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

nightlife

Nightlife Zuk Bar

hotel bars

Bamboo Chic

Bamboo Chic (map C4) Le Meridien Bangkok 4F, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8888 | BTS Sala Daeng | www.lemeridienhotelbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Dim-tones and giant chandeliers set the tone for haute Sino-Nippon cuisine at Bamboo Chic: Le Meridien hotel’s dashing designer resto-bar. But Bangkok’s jetset have also taken a shine to what’s being served over at the arresting limeflorescent bar – innovative cocktails like the Kyoto martini: a delectable blend of dry gin, midori, dry vermouth and lemon juice, served in a fishbowl glass. High-wattage smiles and slick service rounds off this voguish venue, as apt for post-work or pre-dancefloor tipples as it is a swanky dinner. Just steel yourself for a blast of cognitive dissonance on arrival… Patpong, the neon sleazepit cum night market, is Bamboo Chic’s unscrupulous neighbour.

รร.เลอ เมอริเดียน กรุงเทพ ถ.สุรวงศ์

Barsu

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings.To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; inhouse DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

nightlife

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | MonSat 5pm-1am, Sun noon- midnight Guests and clued-up city enjoy zesty cocktails, creative canapés and an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquillity at this classy hotel bar. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the sultry look, mood and service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for heart-to-hearts.The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a sociable spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior. Quietly solicitous lady staff clad in silk serve while a DJ from Tues to Sat spins soulful tunes.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

bangkok 101

Rolling Bar

For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues.The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

boho bars

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

Rolling Bar (map A3) Wanchat Rd | 081-867-6568 | MonSat 6pm-2am A big lit up marquee sign on Wanchat Road beckons you to find out what is going on below the street line. Descend a few stairs and in a quiet corner by the water you will find Rolling Bar, a small open space filled with a mixed assortment of retro décor and various model Cadillac cars. Here, every night you can hear familiar old folk and rock covers unplugged. The bar draws a mixed crowd all in the comfort of T-shirts and jeans and ready to throw back a couple of drinks. The menu’s got all the popular Thai favourites, but the bar offers you a little bit more. Owner Khun Sheeva has whipped up his own personal sweet rum, Sheeva Wop, a must try.

โรลลิ่งบาร์ ริมสะพานเฉลิมวันชาติ

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnamese-inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (often toward the end of the month). bangkok 101

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am This shabby open-air streetside joint is a real Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety island hole-inthe-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B60 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. CC’s is the kind of place where it’s easy to fall into conversation with other patrons; whether it’s because you’re sheltering from a rain shower together or end up sharing one of the few tables. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

LOLLIPOP (map A3) 1 Mahannop Soi 1, Mahannop Road, Pra Nakorn | 08-6339-1390 | Tue-Sun 5pm-1am This old wooden house in indie town Phranakorn – formerly rock-pub Lullibar – looks like it has been ripped from a Tim Burton fantasy. Lime green walls, fiery red couches, old cameras and hippie bead curtains are only some of the whimsical new touches old fans welcome. The house bands now have a performing area where they can strum away without knocking drinks off the tables. And the previously neglected parts, namely the patio and the “garden” outside, have also been renovated to accommodate the Vespa nightlife

driving hipster Thais who come here, not only for the live and jukebox indie tunes but also pub grub ranging from kap klaem (beer snacks) to seafood. One bad thing: Lollipop is hidden deep within the relatively unknown Soi Mahannop. But then again, if you’re cool enough to frequent a place like Lollipop, you’re cool enough to hang with the people who can get you there.

โลลี่ป๊อป มหรรณพ ซ.1

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serve-yourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Put it this way: if you’re looking for a chocolate Martini and a plate of tapas, you’re in the wrong place.Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close - Raindogs is nearby, and it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom and watch the night unfold.

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

Nightlife

jazz clubs THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch. รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท

ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

Bamboo Bar

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small

nightlife

and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must. รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล

bangkok 101

DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ JAZZ GALLERY (map A3) 2nd floor (beneath Gazebo Bar), 44 Chakrapong Rd, (just off Khao San Road | 02-629-5821~2 | 6pm-1am The only thing “Khao San” about this standalone jazz lounge with a soft, elegant glow is its location, just off the raucous backpacker strip. Offering comfy armchairs on one side and casually riffing local jazz bands on the other, parquet floors, candlelight and discreet service, the Jazz Gallery is the most sophisticated venue to grace the area yet. And a great place to escape its moronic-music-loving masses.Think highbrow wine-bar for chardonnaysipping Coltrane-lovers. In addition to some of Thailand’s best jazz divas and ensembles, there’s a recessed art gallery, a smoking balcony (cigars available) and a wine cellar offering the best plonk in the neighbourhood. Mmmm, suave and smooth. แจ๊สแกลอรี่ ถ.จักรพงษ์

bangkok 101

Niu’s on Silom

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well wor th crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jaw-dropping jazz venue. Since August its dressy crowd has been soaking up that cameragrabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of new South Carolinian resident LaDee Streeter. Her sultr y renditions – spanning jazz to bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed. รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร nightlife

Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม

บ้านสีลม

Nightlife

live music BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this longstanding, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yester year with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band star ts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

TITANIUM ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 | www.titanium-club.com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from. An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nippleraising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, soul-stirring.

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of

the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

Tawandaeng German Brewery (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | This cavernous beer keg of a room plays host to Fong Nam, an energetic house band led by the talented Bruce Gaston, a New Yorker famous – in these parts, anyway – for giving traditional Thai music a Western makeover. Spurred on by up to 1,600 lary diners, they rollick through a musical repertoire that touches on everything from luk thung to driving mor lam, Thai orchestrals to western contemporary. They play every night from 7pm-1am, except Sundays. Besides their music (and the dry ice and dancing cabaret girls extravaganza that goes with it), Tawandaeng is also well-known for its micro-brewed beers, German sausage and deep-fried pork knuckle. Reservations recommended.

โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3

ไทเทเนียม ไอซ์บาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of 92

nightlife

bangkok 101

Tawandaeng

Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm - 1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage, it’s a sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eyecandy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. It’s a hike, but well worth it. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s – the secret’s out!

ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do theThai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

bangkok 101

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them reliving the glory years here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride you’ve stumbled on, while inside house bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything from Van Halen to Motorhead covers. Bands get going at 10pm weekdays, 9:30pm on weekends, as they have done for the past 22 years.

เดอะ ร๊อคผับ ถ.พญาไท

Bangkok Rocks (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

รร.เดอะคีย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.19

Bangkok Rocks

nightlife

Nightlife

nightlife areas

Hemlock

11 10

PHra athit rd

Police Station

8 7

Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of dek naew (trendy teens) and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young locals bounce along to excellent live ska. A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite, Zest [4] focuses on live Brit Rock, while Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down another alley, is a retro-cool cocktail house. More full-on, The Club [6] is a techno-rave palace offering free UV glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an opensided rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till the wee hours. For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at 1 6 3 2 rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club Burger kHao sanroad rd Khao San [10] deserves a mention. For outstanding seafood and King 5 4 absolutely no flair, check out Thon Po [11]. Directly on the riverside, this breezy place offers fantastic views and delicious fish and crustaceans from an expansive menu. Call ahead to reserve a riverfront spot.

Ekkamai/Thonglor

Funky Villa

new phetchaburi rd

Soi 20

Thong Lor Soi 10

Soi 16

Ekkamai Soi 28

BTS Ekkamai

Ekkamai Soi 10

Soi 1

Sukhumvit RD

Soi 21

In recent years these parallel boulevards have embraced sweeping gentrification and emerged as upmarket playgrounds for the young, studiously cool zeitgeist follower, be they celebrity, model, arty type, uni student or slick professional. Aside from their surfeit of luxury condos, boutique lifestyle emporiums, designer spas and restaurants both are studded with trendy nightspots catering to a predominantly Thai clientele. New ones pop up every few months, as if to keep hipsters on their toes and match that season’s colours. For now Muse [1], FunkyVilla [2] and Demo [3] – three giganto clubs on Thonglor Soi 10 – are all the rage. Meanwhile, scattered about are old-timers like Song Saleung [4], a recently refurbished and often heaving live music joint, and Shades of Retro [5] – a combo furniture-store café and hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd. Ekkamai’s main drag and side-streets are even better endowed party-wise. Curvaceous Curve [6] and glamorous Jet Metropolitan [7] are big, top-shelf joints offering the usual failsafe blend of live Thai music and DJ’s spinning R’n’B. As the scene stands both are big draws, though the crowds are so gleefully fickle that could change in a Bangkok minute.Track them to the cool club of the moment. Or try two that have achieved longevity: nightclub Nunglen [8] and 4 BTS Thong Lor scruffy little bar Happy Monday [9]. Pretty young Soi 55 (Thong lor) things bounce along to Thai 5 1 tunes in the former; while 2 3 media types (25+) hobnob while enjoying low-key indy6 8 rockstar DJ sessions (May T Soi 63 (Ekkamai) from Modern Dog etc) and 7 9 slouchy sofas in the latter.

nightlife

bangkok 101

ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

road

AL LO C

road

For a night of clubbing,Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music. Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] preaches bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Beside it, HOBB [4] is an industrial chic, two-storey bar. Expect DJs, live music plus occasional appearances by local bands like Bodyslam. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [5], a slick red-brick warehouse with a stunning sound system and sets by global DJ gods. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] attracts the drain-pipe jeans, rock-guitar rabble. There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a strict girls-only policy. No men, gay men, drag queens or peeping Tom’s allowed.

RCA road

1 2

4 5

Sukhumvit Soi 11

On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs tucked off steamy Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with fashionable expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely. This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 9 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]; a curvaceous club-cum-restaurant delivering spacey looks, soft white divans and Ibiza-esque beats. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad bigger than a broom cupboard. Nest 1 [4], a breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, is a more upscale 4 5 option offering 2 Bed Supperclub laid-back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean Bangkok you were after? For something more risqué 3 check out new neighbour Diva [5]. Inside, caged coyotedancers pull off raw, hi-energy dance moves in what they enticingly call: “A femme fatale of a nightclub.” Think Moulin Rouge meets the Pussycat Dolls add throbbing house beats and you’re close. Soi 11

Q Bar

SUKHUMVIT road

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

pub crawling

here are many ways of quenching a thirst, but surely the most enjoyable has to be sipping a pint of real beer in a proper public house. With an unexpectedly wide choice of British and Irish bars offering a taste of pub life, Bangkok won’t let you down on this front. Each month Bangkok 101 gives you the low-down on one of the top taverns around town.

featured

THE PICKLED LIVER

pub

In a city of hidden gems this pub is definitely a rough diamond. Situated on a dead-end soi past the famous Cheap Charlie’s it isn’t one for passing trade. But, it’s definitely worth hunting out because it’s a classic football boozer. A shrine to the beautiful game, or soccer, as some philistines know it, the sign outside features legendary player George Best and the walls and ceilings are covered with football memorabilia. The décor is simple and Where Soi 11, unfussy with a large bar running Sukhumvit Rd (map down one side, a high central D3) BTS Nana 02-254table and red velvet seats flanking 3484 OPEN 2pm-2am the other wood panelled wall. The low ceilings and small windows lend the place a cosy, perpetual twilight air making it an ideal escape from the bustle of Bangkok. Not surprisingly, it’s the range of live sports available on the big screen TV that attracts an unpretentious crowd of fans who have made it their home. But with friendly staff, a pool table in a rear alcove, daily happy hour from 2-7pm, draught Guinness and Kilkenny and an extensive food menu, including award winning curries from the Rang Mahal restaurant, it’s not just the sport that make this place unique.

เดอะพิคเลดลิเวอร์ นานา

Balcony Humidor

Cigar Lounges

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality coronas and fine figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges typically feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and stellar selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and what is billed as Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies. n Balcony Humidor & P&L Club Cigar Bar Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 n Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight n La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com n P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

Club Perdomo

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers.Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak sathorn road

Thaniya

patpong

Convent road

Surasak road

silom road

2 1 BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

Sukhumvit AREA PUBS

bangkok 101

soi 39

sukhumviT road

BTS Asoke

soi 22

soi 12

BTS Nana

soi 6

soi 4

sukhumviT road

soi 35

soi 11

soi 13

soi 33

soi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene

As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering citysized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map - and prepare for sheer retail overload.

UNIQUE boutique

Classic Movie Posters

Good things do come in small packages. Though little more than a glorified broom-cupboard, this Siam Square shop is home to the biggest and best collection of retro Thai movie posters in all Thailand. There’s no table here – there isn’t room for one. Instead its owner, the smiley Mr Santi, improvises by plonking you on a stool facing him and stretching plyboard across both WHERE Siam Square Soi your knees. Once wedged in place, 2, near Lido Theatre (behind out comes his stash, accumulated via 7eleven) BTS Siam, 02years of tips-offs and plundering old 255-3677 OPEN Mon – Fri cinemas. And what a stash. Spanning 2pm- 8pm, Sat – Sun 2pm-7all the way from cut-and-paste photo pm PRICES from B150 to posters from the 1950s to the generic B10,000+ Western-style movie posters of today, it’s a wonder this lot hasn’t already been snapped for safe-keeping by the National Museum. Their loss, you’re gain. Highlights include a a little two-tone Nang Kwak poster from 1958, and one-sheets for Kurosawa’s Seven Samurai and Coppola’s Apocalypse Now, the latter being debatably the creative high watermark of Thailand’s distinctive painted poster style; a style which saw Thai artists being commissioned to paint all the juicy scenes from each film into one lurid, technicolour montage. The foyers they used to hang in are mostly dust now, but seek out this ickle obscurity and you can give them a proud new home. If you think the prices steep, work that smile and see if Mr Santi won’t cut you a deal.

คลาสสิคมูฟวี่โปสเตอร์ สยามสแควร์ ซ.2

shopping

bangkok 101

stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, home-grown “stuff” that Bangkok is justly famous for.

Silk/apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down.The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom bangkok 101

Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for royalty), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com

Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while youth-orientated shopping mall Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer homespun high fashions by labels like Jaspal and Greyhound.

Jewellery/gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionallymined precious stones. The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam. There are a few diamonds in the rough, though. Lambert Industries, with their friendly and reliable service, has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. n Lambert Industries (807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg 4F, Silom Rd Soi 17, 02-236-4343).

OTOP: One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP, a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living.

shopping

Shopping

Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.102). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week. Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.102); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595

Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th n Panpuri

Shopping Tips

n Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head.

n Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

n Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. 100

shopping

Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power. At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Isetan Plaza (CentralWorld) F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info n VAT: Look out for signs advertising “VAT Refund or Tourists”. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7% on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th

bangkok 101

bangkok design

ABSTRACT EXPRESSIONS :

Brian Mertens

Jakkai Siributr

Despite obtaining bachelor’s and master’s degrees in textile design, Jakkai Siributr decided not to work in the industry, and instead became a textile-based studio artist. The results include the densely layered textile constructions he created from 2001 to 2004, descendents of abstract expressionist painting but using fabric and thread. In this early series, Jakkai draws inspiration from both modern art and traditional crafts. He loves South-east Asian textiles, like those woven by Thailand’s hill tribes, as well as quilts crafted in Indiana and Pennsylvania, the American states where he studied. “You see these lines and stitches going all over the quilt. The handiwork gives it visual energy. I love all this folk art because you can see that the maker’s hand and heart and mind went into crafting it.” In a similar way, Jakkai puts his own spirit and contemplation into these artworks, creating abstractions that can be seen as landscapes or dreamy vignettes of sensation. He uses materials ranging from scraps of hand-woven silk to cheap floral prints he buys in Bangkok’s Indian market. Jakkai constructs his creations by cutting or tearing the cloth, sewing it down in layers, then painting on top or embroidering it with materials like industrial tape and plastic beads. “It’s mixed media, but I’m staying true to textile traditions—techniques like hand sewing, quilting and using woven materials. It’s all about being in the present. It’s my personal journal, reflecting my experiences and emotions through pattern, textures and colours.” Since these early abstract works, Jakkai has ventured into figurative painting, rich in narrative, yet still featuring textiles in layers. Available from: n H GALLERY 201 Sathorn Soi 12 | 081-310-4428 | www.hgallerybkk.com Bangkok Design:Thai Ideas in Textiles and Furniture is the first book to explore Asia’s new wave in design creativity. Award-winning author Brian Mertens profiles 36 of Thailand’s top designers, showing how they translate their own culture and experiences into unique furnishings that have won international awards and museum exhibitions. Typically handcrafted from natural materials, the best contemporary Thai designs celebrate wit, warmth, sustainability and alluring form. Bangkok Design – published by Marshall Cavendish – B1,200 - hardcover, written by Brian Mertens, with photos by Robert McLeod. bangkok 101

shopping

101

Shopping

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 The Four Seasons 4 Grand Hyatt Erawan 5 Intercontinental 6 Holiday Inn 7 Conrad 8 Plaza Athenee 9 Royal Orchid Sheraton 10 The Oriental 11 The Peninsula 12 Shangri-La

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

CENTRALWORLD BTS Siam All hail Bangkok’s largest shopping mall, uniquely served by an elevated walkway connecting Siam Skytrain station to its Chit Lom counterpart.

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oe n kr char

rd.

ong s u raw 11

OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel. 12

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u ng

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To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

rive

BTS Ploen Chit

yra

d. ya r S i phra

o ph cha

WITTHAYU rd

C E N TRAL C H I T LOM BTS Chit Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

phetburi rd

ploenchit rd

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chid Lom All-white interior of glitzy, top-class brands – expect Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

chidlom

lang suan rd

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Look for TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

Ratchadamri rd

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chid Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine. Think Burberry. BTS Chitlom

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ZEN BTS Siam This pop art-styled, multilevel designer department store aims to attire Bangkok’s young-at-heart funsters in the latest international fashions.

Phaya Thai rd

uri rd

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

ph e tb

Phaya Thai rd

s ilo

bangkok 101

Shopping

markets

the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-that-be auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s obsessive collection of modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนท์บาร์ซาร์

Pratunam

CHATUCHAK (map D1) Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere – the rest can get lost – literally. Taking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which zillions descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Chatuchak quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs during ‘Nam; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has somehow evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for peddling endangered species). 104

All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order begins to crystallise from the chaos (Nancy Chandler’s famous map also comes in invaluable). Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits - although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated fix.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with shopping

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was hailed as “Venice of the East”.

เทเวศน์

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the “thieves market”, this smallish street-side market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique, and a seemingly random assortment of household appliances. As its nickname would suggest, ample bargains await patient, eagleeyed shoppers - though don’t expect a receipt, let alone a refund.

นครเกษม

bangkok 101

sidewalks

Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny T-shirts, wooden carvings, paintings and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the stuff on offer can be picked up in the malls and markets – but where’s the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain!

Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew bangkok 101

Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone? Pratunam A ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!). Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item. shopping

...from french laces, silk jacquards, chiffon prints, cording laces, embroidered laces, taffettas linens, cottons, satins, and more...

Chakphet Rd. Chakphet Rd.

Merryking

Wangburapa Rd.

Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff (frayed t-shirts, handbags, polka dot dresses etc) are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale by the city’s baby-faced entrepreneurs.

Specialists in Bangkok for high-quality fabrics for women!!

Chakphet Rd.

Sukhumvit

of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here.

The Old Siam

Visit us now for the lastest collections and new designs!! Gandhi-326 Phahurat Road Bangkok10200 T02-2255-997/503 H 9-6pm (Mon-Sat) 9-5.30pm (Sun) Cynosure-A002 G/F ChinaWorld Phahurat Road Bangkok10200 T 02-225-2001-3 H 9.30-7pm (Mon-Sun) 105

Accommodation

ravishing rooms

Three seductive boutique hotels for Valentine’s Day or just because you’re in the mood for love.

THE BHUTHORN 96-98 Phraeng Bhuthorn Rd, San Chao Phor Seau, Phra Nakhorn | 02-622-2270 | www.thebhuthorn.com | B 2,800 – 3,600 The three rooms in this skilfully restored old city shophouse are couple-friendly, not to mention only a few hundred metres trot from the Grand Palace. Each is named after a Thai prince, each resplendent in a drop-dead blend of the owners’ antiques, from old Siamese maps to claw-footed hat stands. Our pick: the Bhuthorn room, on account of its passionate four-poster bed and 1920s ThaiEuropean boudoir looks. Breakfast is taken in a fantastical, Moroccan-inspired courtyard perfect for shamelessly sharing croissants in.

เดอะภูธร แพร่งภูธร

SHANGHAI MANSION 479-481 Yaowarat Rd | MRT Hua Lamphong (then taxi) | 02-678-0101 | www.shanghaimansion.com | B4,000 – 5,000 With Valentine’s and Chinese New Year coinciding this year, this Chinatown boutique hotel brimful of romantic, opium-dream chinoiserie makes sense. The hotel’s right on the main drag, which means that street noise can drift up to front-facing rooms. However, once you’re in yours – a Technicolor trip of imperial reds, silk flowers and pop-peony patterns – you’ll both be too busy romping on your sumptuous, swoony bed to care.

ชางไฮแมนชั่น ถ.เยาวราช

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ARUN RESIDENCE 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | B3,500 – 5,500 An intimate inn with one breathtaking difference: its wood-deck restaurant, rooftop bar, library and 6 guest rooms all overlook the river and Wat Arun, the Khmer-style temple that predates modern Bangkok. At night, when spotlights lend it a golden orange hue, this river vista is pure smoochy couple material. All rooms have a bronzy Thai charm – teak finishes, arts and crafts, extravagant bathrooms – but the most romantic is far and away the Arun Suite, thanks to its private terrace, perfect for fairytale marriage proposals.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง accommodation

bangkok 101

“You don’t stay here... you live here”

1 Sathorn Soi 3, South Sathorn Road, Thungmahamek, Sathorn, Bangkok, Thailand 10120 Tel : (66) 2 343 6789 Fax : (66) 2 343 6790 visit www.marriott.com/bkkea

60 Soi Langsuan, Lumpini, Pathumwan Bangkok, 10330 Thailand Tel: (66) 2 6721234 Fax: (66) 2 6721235 Visit www.marriott.com/bkker

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.109 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

Thai-massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

Urban Retreat Spa – 31/10 Sukhumvit Soi 35 signature treatment / BTS Phrom Phong / 02-204-2008-9 / www.

Red Wine Spa Package

urbanretreatspa.net <http://www.urbanreTall/ 10am-10pm and slim, Avanti’s Beauty & Spa in Thonglor emulates every girl’s treatspa.net> /$ 30-minute Himalayan pink Saltsiswith dream; it’sCrystal long corridor three stories high and equipped with five Yogurt and Honey Scrub + 60-minute Macprivate rooms, which can accommodate your every beauty need. adamia Oil Massage: 1200 baht Tucked away in aRed sideWine streetBody closeTreatment to Phrom allows you to channel Dionysus for a The Phong, Urban Retreattwo is precisely that – using a luxurious hours. Cleverly all parts of the fruit, it starts out with quiet spot close to the bustle of Sukhumvit a twenty-minute grape seed body mask. Then comes the full body scrub, and the upscale Emporium shopping mall. This new, small spahelps is popular with Thais andcells, leaving your skin a blank new slate which to exfoliate dead long-term foreign residents drawn by very ready to absorb all the good services that don’t suffer for red wine being affordable. Spaextracts menu ishave trim Where Avanti Beauty & Spa, Thonglor and tidy, with focusAon word massage, to aoffer. to (Sukhumvit Soi 55) between Soi 5 and Soi although scrubs and facials are also the wise, don’t available. Urban Retreat offersshave very 7, 020-712-7784 or 089-927-3661,

immediately before as www.avantispathailand.com it might cause a little Price Bangkok 101 readers receive a irritation. Next, believe 60% discount until April (normally B2,900, it or not, you are left pay only B1,150) to soak in a red wine filled Jacuzzi. And even though your teeth are never safe, you can be sure the extracts won’t stain your skin. They act as natural antioxidants to assist in the neverending battle against aging. This is all topped off with a red wine oil aroma massage that smells so good you just might think you’re edible. The vinotherapy treatment gives you a taste of luxury and leaves you soft and supple, thinking maybe you are the next goddess of wine.

อาวันติบิวตี้แอนด์สปา ทองหล่อ

108

health & wellness

bangkok 101

typical SPA cost range

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

Chivit Chiva Massages & Spa (map D3) 16/1-2, Sukhumvit Road, Soi 19| BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-2530607-8 | www.chivitchivaspa.com | 10am-11pm | $$$ Enter this soothing spa, close the door to Bangkok behind you and wave the chaos of the Asok intersection area goodbye. There are five spa rooms and four Thai rooms, all simple yet exotic, some with private shower. All 12 staff are expertly trained and the menu of available treatments is extensive, featuring facials, body, foot and oil massages, spa packages as well as more funky treatments such as stone massages. They also offer a variety of body scrubs with everything from coffee to seaweed, salt and apple. The B1,600 baht oil massage is splendid, your 90 minute professional massage including a choice of your favourite oil scent, a private massage room with a shower attached and a bathrobe. The spa also offers cheaper solutions, a traditional Thai massage going for B600 baht for 1 hour. That’s more expensive than at many, but it’s also more reverent.

LEYANA SPA (map E4) 33 Thong Lo 13 | Soi Torsak, Sukhumvit 49 | 02-391-7694 | www.leyanaspa. com | 10am-10pm | $$ Tucked away in a warren of residential roads near the Japanese enclave of Thong Lor, this, boutique massage retreat combines a clean, contemporary design with an extensive menu of massage, facial, and body treatments. Choose from a range of massages – including Thai, aroma, warm oil, hot stone, Balinese or Leyana’s Back Revival – to get those kinks out. Most of the spa’s simple yet elegant treatment rooms feature private Jacuzzis, and the traditionalThaistyle herbal steam rooms (think oneperson tee-pees) are a must. Just relax and concentrate on your rejuvenation or detox. Owned and operated by a young Thai woman who is mindful of the details, Leyana is well worth the effort of getting to. Thankfully, the spa offers a complimentary shuttle service from the Thong Lo BTS station.

ลียาน่าสปา ทองหล่อ ซ.13

ชีวติ ชีวามาสสาจแอนด์สปา สุขมุ วิท 19

spas

PIMMALAI (map E4) 2105/1 Sukhumvit Rd (between Sois 81 & 83) |BTS On Nut | 02-742-6452 | www.pimmalai.com | 10:30am-10pm |$ This impossible traditional Northern Thai house is almost a stereotype in its authenticity.Tropical foliage harbours a tall teak and red-brick Lanna structure, inviting in its combo of simplicity and intricate trimming (translate that into high ceilings, pottery and bamboo). Refreshingly simple, airy rooms proffer a calming background for convincing treatments. The short menu contains the absolute classics (plus ear candling, which we love; other favourites are the Eye Treatment and the Scalp Massage).You’ll be hardpressed to find lower prices even in the dingiest establishments around Nana – Pimmalai’s owners must be good-hearted souls not out for any profit. Plan to spend a whole day here, enjoying several treatments. In between, browse the spa shop, buy sarongs and the whole range of intriguing PIMM bath & body products. Fret not the location – Pimmalai is minutes away from a BTS Station. An absolute must – one of our all-time favourites.

พิมมาลัย ระหว่างสุขมุ วิท ซ. 81 และ 83

bangkok 101

health & wellness

109

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-the-art equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

Tria

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ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified health & wellness

physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.

เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

Amruth Wellness Center (mapE4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient at this leafy garden townhouse gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a drop-in, dropout treatment, a yoga sesh or to embark on a life-changing panchakarma package. Stocked with medicines imported from the Subcontinent, holistic highlights include a hanging massage and the head oil-dribbling odyssey that is a shiro dhara.

อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8

BANGKOK MEDIPLEX (map E4) 2/70 Sukhumvit 42, Phrakanong | BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-5555 | www.bangkokmediplex.com | 9am – 8pm Visible from the Ekkamai Skytrain Station, this gleaming steel and glass fronted lifestyle mall comprises 35 leading healthcare centres and trendy medi-lifestyle stores. There’s a clinic offering live cell therapy (a treatment to repair weak cells), a traditional Chinese medicine centre, a chiropractic centre, top notch eye-care and Thailand’s first organic supermarket. Ample parking.

แบงคอก เมดิเพลกซ์ สุขมุ วิท 42

bangkok 101

edical tourism is huge business in Thailand; a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of others – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international trade. The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other. When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls. Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad, once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your private room, they have their own immigration department and

bangkok 101

a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your trip. You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications? Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul? And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa? These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment.

medical tourism Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International

33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com

FEATURED medical treatment

Balavi

Acupuncture

The thought of voluntarily having needles jabbed into your skin may raise a few hairs and visions of Hellraiser. Nevertheless, acupuncture is a tried and tested regimen that has been a staple of traditional Chinese medicine for over than 2000 years. In ancient Chinese medical teachings, the body consists of two, inseparable, opposing forces, the Yin and the Yang. The Yin is the passive side and the Yang is the active side, both of which must be kept in equal balance in order to best maintain your health; diseases arise when the body is not in a balance state leading to a blockage to a blocked flow of Qi, or vital energy, throughout the body. In acupuncture, licensed practitioners place long, slim, steel needles into specific points throughout the body, depending on the ailment, to unblock the flow of Qi. As esoteric as “unblocking your Qi” may sound, many have found that acupuncture brings direct relief for a wide range of ailments, from kidney stones to hypertension. The practice has even been credited with helping smokers kick the habit and relieving chronic pain by regulating the nervous system and triggering the release of painkilling endorphins into the brain. While pain relief via human pin cushion may not be for everyone, either because of the heebie-jeebies or health restrictions (people suffering from blood diseases can’t undergo it), for many it can be miraculous. One word to the wise: visit a fully licensed acupuncture specialist like the ones listed below, who maintain the strictest standards of quality and cleanliness. n Acupuncture Clinic Vibhavadi Hospital | 51/3 Ngamwongwan | 02-941-2800 |www.vibhavadi.com n St Louis Hospital | 215 South Sathorn | Chinese Traditional Medicine | 02-675-5000 ext. 20198,20199 | www.saintlouis.or.th n Balavi Natural Health Centre | 191/3 Soi Ranong 1 Rama VI | 02-615-8822 | www.balavi.com n Kitjawet Clinic | 54 Chan Rd (off Narathiwat Rd.) | 02-2873259 | www.thaiacupuncture.com

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Sports

sports MASTER MUAY THAI! Many a champ started out punching mitts at one of Bangkok’s many muay Thai schools. Some are livein training camps, others geared towards drop-in sessions, but all will train you up and teach you how to deflect – and deliver – the basic moves, be it kick, jab, elbow, foot thrust or standing grapple. Beginners and female pugilists are welcome, though they often receive inordinate attention from the coming-of-age combatants. n Chacrit Muay Thai School Washington Square next to Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-260-5816 www.chacritmuaythaischool.com n Fairtex Muaythai RCA 149 3rd Fl. RCA Driving Range, Local Rd. | 02-203-1443 | www.muaythaifairtex.com n The International Muay Thai School 22/8 Moo 8, Soi 10, Pracharaj Sai1 Road, Bangsue | 02-585-6807 www.geocities.com/maimuangkorn/ eng_mai.htm n Muay Thai Institute 336/932 Prahonyothin 118 Vipravadee Road, Rangsit | 02-9920096-99 | www.muaythai-institute.net n Muaythai Sasiprapa 401 Soi Ladprao 130 Klongchan, Bangkapi | 02-378-0270 | www.muaythaisasiprapa.com

Muay Thai Institute

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THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

Fairtex

MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF, the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. spor ts

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.37) on any given day and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums.The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. bangkok 101

Spiceroads

Active Sports AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in! BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK. bangkok 101

CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand and its neighbours. ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Esplanade 4F | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more spor ts

like a nightclub on ice. Popular among youngsters, its 682m2 of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B900-2,400 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Centre (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with local ace Paradorn Srichaphan bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 113

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courses

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi | 02-294-9029 | www.baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 114

(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02711-5270-3 | www.chivasomacademy. com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. The high but justified prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses available in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล อะคาเดมี

โมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well. Perfect for a serious, but short stint into Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

Boy’s Own

(Mahamek Home for Boys) Life’s tough if you’re an orphan in a developing country. The social welfare provisioning that many westerners take for granted is simply not offered here. To fill the consequent need for a community care centre for underprivileged children, the Mahamek Home For Boys foundation was instituted under the Bureau of Anti-Trafficking in Women and Children back in 1954 to take in boys of 7-18 years of age. It provides services in accordance with the Child Protection Act of 2003, aiming to enable social, emotional and mental growth despite against the odds. This can come through the following services: - Medical treatment & healthcare - Sports & recreation, including music and cultural activities - Ethical & moral training services - Employment placement services - Social work & counseling services After they are discharged from Mahamek, boys receive followup sessions to help re-integrate them into society and prevent them from surrendering to unhealthy environmental conditions. Donations are directed to the following channels: - Hiring child-care personnel - Scholarships - Daily amenities and necessities - Meals or special activities - Visits are also welcomed. Call 02-286-2103 or 02-676-1283 for further details or to make enquiries. BAAN MAHAMEK HOME FOR BOYS 1086-1092 Akansongkroh Road, Mahamek, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 | 02-286-2103 | www.bannmahamek.com

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Business

business In Bangkok on business? Rest assured it brings a lot to the table. Convention centres, ritzy hotels, world-class wine-and-dine spots... it’s little wonder it’s a regional hub for MICE (Meetings and Incentives, Conferences and Exhibitions), especially when you factor in the myriad down-time attractions. We dig up all the basics so that you don’t have to. Business Travellers Top on the list after you’ve touched down is, of course, a hotel.There are lots to choose from, in every location, but those that tick every business-traveller box include The Conrad, Sofitel Silom, Westin Grande and Sheraton Grande. Bangkok’s traffic has a justifiably miserable reputation, but having a car at your disposal can be handy. Try Limousine Thailand (www. limousinethailand.com). And if your hotel room isn’t cutting it as a makeshift office, then contact temporary office providers Regus (www.regus.co.th) or Servcorp (www.servcorp.net).

There’s rarely a quiet moment on the local trade fair scene. For a rundown, see www.thaitradefair.com. Or perhaps you’re considering staging your company’s big meet or team get-away here? If so, talk to the Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (www.tceb.or.th). They say it’s who you know – not what you know. To get your face out there, join one of the networking events hosted by Bangkok Young Professionals (www.mobyelite.com/byp) or others. If you’re short on business cards – and you will be after a night at the aforementioned – try one of the many one-stopshops at MBK shopping mall. It’s also worth reading up on Thailand’s face-saving and, often quirky, business culture.Try Working with the Thais: A Guide to Managing in Thailand by Henry Holmes and Suchada Tangtongtavy (White Lotus, B495). Finally, note that any foreigner working, or doing business here, must have a non-immigrant B visa and a work permit. If your company hasn’t arranged both, go to www.immigration.go.th and find out what you need. Or contact a business solutions provider like Sunbelt Asia – they’ll do all the paperwork so that you don’t have to. Starting Up Frequently voted one of the world’s best cities, it’s no surprise that so many look to set up shop in Bangkok. However, bear in mind that although Thailand opened it doors wide to foreign investment after the Asian Financial Crisis of 1997, it can still be a tricky place to establish a business. The best advice is to find local experts to help you clear the regulatory hurdles. Business solutions provider Sunbelt Asia (www.sunbeltasia.com) offers everything from upfront legal advice to business brokerage and serviced offices. Similarly, Bangkok Base (www.bangkokbase.com) is a 360° provider of business support. Chambers of commerce can also offer advice and assistance in finding partners. There are also a few books on the market. One of the best is Philip Wylie’s How to Establish a Successful Business in Thailand. In it you will find the essentials on the minutiae of business in Thailand, from negotiating baffling bureaucracy and legal peculiarities to cultural codes and social etiquette.

Business spotlight

PULLMAN BANGKOK KING POWER The Pullman is one of those super-convenient hotels that seems to have thought of everything – perfect for those with limited time in the city. With nearly 400 rooms and suites decorated in an a la page contemporary Asian design, the gleaming steel-and-glass hotel forms part of the King Power Duty Free complex. In addition to the hotel, the complex comprises the Aksra Theatre, where you can take in a traditional Thai performance; a good Asian restaurant (in addition to the hotel’s five outlets); and a duty free shopping mall. The beauty WHERE 8/2 Rangnam Road, of the King Power Mall is that Thanon-Phayathai 02-680-9999 you can make all your duty ext. 2503 BTS Victory Monument free purchases, in your own (shuttle bus service) leisurely time, before you head www.pullmanbangkokkingpower.com off to the airport. The Pullman is totally geared towards the international businessperson. The hotel’s own business service, Espace, provides secretarial and translation services and there is a range of meeting and banquet facilities which can accommodate up to 400 guests, as well as boardrooms which can be rented by the hour.

รร.พูลแมนแบงคอกคิงพาวเวอร์ ถ.รางน้ำ

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real estate

Photo courtesy of Ananda Development

Ideo Morph 38

Buying Property Many visitors decide they want to buy property in Bangkok: some because they fall in love with the city and all its eclectic idiosyncrasies; others because they jet in and out of the city on business and want more than a hotel room can offer. Whatever the reasons, buyers can find a wide range of accommodation at very favourable prices. From simple US$18,000 studio apartments to lavish million-dollar condos, there are options to suit most budgets. Non-Thai citizens looking to acquire property in the country will most probably be looking to purchase apartments rather than houses; as the law currently stands, foreigners are permitted to buy condos providing at least 51% of the building’s units are Thai-owned. Land (and therefore houses) is a different matter. Technically foreigners are not allowed to own land in Thailand, though if you are a foreigner married to a Thai citizen, then it is quite straightforward to draw everything up in your partner’s name. Another method to acquire land is through a loan/lease agreement, whereby you loan money to a Thai citizen under a contract specifying they must use it to buy a property. Your Thai business partner will then buy the property and legally own the land. Simply put, you then get your lawyer to draw up an agreement giving you – the lender – a leasehold agreement on the property. However you decide to approach the acquisition of property, be sure to shop around and proceed with caution. Research the developers’ track record, the location, the average rate of return, and the likelihood of a super-skyscraper popping up and blocking that achingly beautiful view of the Chao Phraya River. Also, be aware that tales of relationships suddenly souring once deeds are signed are all too common. The best advice is to exercise common sense and find

The River

local experts you can trust. International brokerage firm Sunbelt Asia (www.property.th.com) has plenty of listings and English-speaking consultants on hand, while Property Report magazine (www.property-report.com) will give you a good overview of the whole scene.

Simply Serene Perfecting the harmony between your mind, body and soul, Crystal Spa offers an exquisite Thai heritage spa experience. Using traditional Thai herbs and a masterful touch, our masseuses deliver divine treatments in a serene and exotic setting.

Valentine’s Promotion: Aroma Hot Candle

Choose a 90 minute Aroma massage for 2 people, get free Hydrotherapy

Crystal Spa is located on Sukhumvit Rd., right in front of BTS Phrakanong Station escalator (Exit 3). Open daily from 10.00-22.00 hrs. Free parking is available at Good Year Eagle Store.

For Reservation: Tel.02-382-2244, 02-382-4455 www.crystalspathailand.com bangkok 101

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Reference

survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words. Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement). The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then. Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you? I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

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sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná kho˘ thôt khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669 LOST CREDIT CARD CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) MasterCard 02-260-8572 Visa 02-273-1199 or 02-273-7449 MEDICAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHONE SERVICES Bangkok Directory Inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 International Long Distance 100 Overseas Subscribers Call 001 TOURISM OFFICES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist Information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-282- 9773, 02-2505500 | daily 8:30am- 4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02- 250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www. bangkoktourist.com IMMIGRATION DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am- 4pm EMBASSIES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02344-6300 | www.austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place 15F, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.bangkokinternational.gc.ca bangkok 101

contacts SKYTRAIN/SUBWAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-612-2444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BUS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mor Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai)

Surfing BKK There’s a million websites out there, all desperate for a good quick click – but these are the only ones we would take home to meet our mum. n www.1stopbangkok.com Everything you wanted to know about Bangkok but were afraid to ask. n www.thaivisa.com General, boring, immigration type stuff and an entertaining messageboard. n www.bangkokartmap.com Find out where the pretty pictures and free wine’s at. n www.paknamweb.com Blogs, blogs and more blogs. Everything from the Thai lottery to sizzling streetfood. n www.movieseer.com Popcorn? Check. Emergency sweater? Check. Showtimes? Check here! MRT

TRAIN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 reference

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getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options. anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers. MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand.

BTS

ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the public taxi queue outside the terminal, a B50 surcharge is added to the metered fare. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you

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BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-23 Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts. co.th

reference

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro. co.th RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.24) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance. Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3. CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B8 to B18. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.

bangkok 101