Bangkok 101 - January 2010 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

january 2010 100 baht

urban lines photography by

marc schultz i nf ehs i s k i n g d o m t h r o u g h t h eu rebyaens l o

januar y 2010

HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

publisher’s

letter

january 2010

Happy New Decade! We are excited and proud to kick off our first issue of the 2010s with a photo feature by local lensman Marc Schultz. Urban Lines presents a series of vignettes on old Bangkok as seen through his trusty fish-eye lens. As you can see from this month’s front cover, shot at a backstreet Chinese opera back in October, the distorted perspective makes for a fresh, often beguiling collection of snaps. Our selection is different from the one showing at the exhibition, so if you like what you see get yourself down to Face Restaurant, on Sukhumvit Soi 38, over the next month or so. After the party heartiness of December, January is usually a bit of a comedown in comparison, with diet-regimes still in tact, and wallets depleted. Not so this month: everything from golf tournaments to Music in the Park to a Bangkok International Tattoo Convention. Music lovers are especially spoilt, with Music in the Park, the return of the Culture One Dance Music Festival and thrash-punk pop from the likes of Green Day. See Metrobeat for the skinny on these and more. For those of you here on a sightseeing tip, we point you in a multitude of directions. To learn about the cultural eclecticism and sideways logic of the country, In the Neighbourhood takes you on a tour round Bangkok’s state-of-the-art Museum of Siam. Meanwhile in our Daytrip section, we head to Koh Kret, Bangkok’s island on a bend in the river; and our Upcountry Escape is to Isaan, namely the seldom visited Mekong-river bordering province of Mukdahan. As usual we have a glut of new reviews designed to help you boost your Bangkok knowledge, from hot candle spa treatments to new bars and restaurants and a fashion label with a cool new, Isaan-inspired clothing collection. More local secrets are also exposed in our regular column Very Thai, which this month paddles up alongside the city’s long-tail boats and barges. And in 1 on 1, we talk straight-up about Bangkok’s streetfood with sharptongued Aussie David Thompson, Thai cuisine’s only Michelinstarred chef. However you plan to spend the first few weeks of the 2010s, be it by enjoying the tail end of Thailand’s “winter” in a beer garden here in town or by embarking on a short break, Bangkok 101 wishes you luck and prosperity in your travels here and beyond. Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

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contributors Noy Thrupkaew

Noy is a U.S. journalist and former Pew fellow in International Journalism and Fulbright fellow in contemporary Thai cinema. She writes frequently on international politics and culture. Noy has reported from Cuba, Iran, Morocco, Japan, and Cambodia, among other countries; for outlets including The Guardian, Marie Claire, Ms. and The American Prospect, where she is a senior correspondent.

Philip CornwelSmith

Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness: Thailand and international magazines.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published this year by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Author Brian Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s new wave of textiles and furniture in his recent coffee table volume Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and current affairs for such publications as International Herald Tribune, Art Asia-Pacific and Forbes. A former resident of New York City and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

Tom Mintier

From covering the Vietnam War as an army photographer to heading up CNN bureaus in London and Bangkok, Tom Mintier is one of the most recognised and respected media figures in Thailand today. An Emmy award-winning television news journalist, Tom covered many events live for CNN, including the 1989 student uprising in Tiananmen Square and the fall of the Berlin Wall. Currently a consultant at AMATA Corp and professor at Thammasat University in Bangkok, Tom continues to train local journalists.

Steven Pettifor

British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia.com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Graphic Director Yuthtaya Sangnak Art Designer Narong Srisaiya Editorial Assistant Piyakwan Mettaprasert Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Alisara Chirapongse, Rikke Bjerge Johansen, Ashley Simcox, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,TAT Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Simon Hughes Account Executives Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Jurairat Wannaprom Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Distribution Coordinator Tunwa Pankaew Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com Printed by Allied Printers T: 02-240-3700 © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2009. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents

january 2010

snapshots 8 10 11 12 14 15 16 17

101 picks 1 on 1: chef david thompson events calendar metro beat history religion customs very thai: longtail boats & barges

sightseeing 18 19 20 22 24 26 28 30 31 33 34 35 36 37 38 41 42 44

orientation riverside route101: rattanakosin route101: chinatown route101: sukhumvit route 101: silom&sathorn route101: pathumwan siam and pratunam historic buildings temples kids in the city & shrines musuems the great outdoors in the neighbourhood daytrip: koh kred day tripping upcountry festivals upcountry escape: mukdahan over the border: luang prabang

48 41

arts 46 47 48 56 57 58 59

contemporary art exhibitions photo feature: urban lines performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening

44 on the cover: a male Chinese opera, or ngiw, performer carefully applies his makeup in an improvised backstage area in old Bangkok.

table of

contents

january 2010

food & drinks 60 61 62 63 64 65 68 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

dining in bangkok meal deal thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants chic bangkok dim-sum brunching tea late dining sweet treats all you can eat wine

108

nightlife 82 84 86 88 89 90 92 94 96

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars boho bars jazz clubs live music nightlife areas pub crawling

sports

112 spectator sports 113 active sports

shopping 98 99 101 102 104 105

unique boutique stuff bangkok design mall crawl markets sidewalks

courses & services 98

accommodation

114 cooking, meditation & thai massage courses 115 making merit: plant a tree today

business

106 boutique bangkok

116 business 117 real estate

health & wellness 108 109 110 111

115

body & beauty spas wellness centres medical tourism

reference 118 survival thai 119 contacts 120 getting around

106

Snapshots

101 picks

Before dashing off to a tropical island or the mountains, scratch beneath the city’s gritty surface to discover gems that’ll keep you here longer. We’ve compiled our Bangkok favourites here.

one night in bangkok

shopping

thai style

food heaven

open air

■ Chatuchak A huge, sprawling village of a market, selling everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.104).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.115).

■ Beautiful Brunches L a ze a r o u n d w i t h friends, newspapers for those great late breakfasts (p. 75).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a big zoo & Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous greener y (p.30).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day. Party all night. Never grow old. It’s fun to be a Bangkokian (pp.82-97).

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar A pleasant evening market with arts, crafts and textiles. And a massive beer garden (p.104).

■ Thai Massage A cracking good time – though not for the faint hearted (p.108).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Get thee to a food court (p.71).

■ On the River Take an express boat up to Nonthaburi or explore the canal communities of Thonburi (p.19).

■ Cabarets Wow, she is beautiful. Such a graceful dancer. And what a figure! Eh… what do you mean “he”? (p.85).

■ Siam Square All the young dudes head to this cradle of cool for the latest flicks and threads (p.102).

■ Thai Cooking Classes Learn to pound a proper paste like a pro (p.114).

■ Riverside Dining The Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome backdrop.And there are plenty of good restaurant options (p.21).

■ Cycling Tour Maybe not an obvious choice, but these tours are surprisingly popular (p.113).

■ High Attitude Bars Slinky cocktails at eight miles high. Not cheap, but well worth it (p.86).

■ Patpong A thin strip in the CBD jam-packed with market stalls and, er, go-go bars (p.105).

■ Thai Boxing The brutal, quintessentially Thai form of kickboxing (p.112).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of special offers to eat at some of the city’s best restaurants (p.61).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the museum park of Muang Boran, and see Thailand in miniature! (p.38).

■ Dining Cruises Stuff your face as you wind your way along the Chao Phraya (p.61).

■ Panthip Plaza The ultimate computer-geek mecca. If you can’t find it here you just haven’t looked hard enough (p.102).

■ TCDC Cool, creative learning space for Thai designers (p.57).

■ Street Food Pull up a plastic stool and get ready to point and shoot (p.64).

■ Lumpini Park A huge green space in the heart of the city. Perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the ponds (p.35).

■ Carnivalesque Get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11 (p.95).

■ Paragon & CentralWorld Two of the swishest mega-malls you’re ever likely to encounter. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be the third floor (p.102).

■ Jim Thompson House & Silk Shop This former spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade then disappeared. Nice house though (p.32).

■ Affordable Gourmet Food If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, Bangkok needn’t break the bank (p.65).

■ Flower Market Close your eyes and inhale deeply. 24-hour marigold madness. (p.104)

■ Theatre TraditionalThai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.56)

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bangkok 101

Snapshots

1 on 1

Chef David Thompson

Australian David Thompson is head chef at the world’s only Michelinstarred Thai restaurant, London’s Nahm. To find out how he became so, look no further than his tenure here in the 1980s when he became fluent in both Thai and authentic Thai cooking. The articulate, outspoken and often pottymouthed celebrity chef speaks to us about his new 400-plus page cooking tome, Thai Streetfood, and its always salivating subject. An Australian with a restaurant in London who cooks Thai food – please explain. I’m merely a creature of circumstance. I went to Thailand 25 years ago, fell in love with the place. I was seduced by the people, the culture, the cuisine, so decided I wanted to move here. During that time in the 1980s I met an old women who cooked with such exquisite skill that it transformed my understanding of what Thai food was, from it being a Sunday night takeaway cuisine to something of merit. Describe your approach to Thai cooking. I try to be authentic following old recipes as faithfully as possible; yet I don’t pretend that I’m Thai, there is some western sensibility, it is what it is. Why is your new book about Thai Streetfood? It’s the new kitchen of the Thais. While researching the book I was surprised to find out that Thai streetfood is not as established as it would appear. It really only spilled out of the markets in the 1950s and 1960s. Before then most streetfood was in the enclaves of the Chinese. And that changed as Thailand began to industrialise and more Thais moved away from their homes, their kitchens, their paddies and their cooks and ate out. 10

Streetfood is not just about Thai food though, is it? No, it’s not the purest of Thai food. One of the other interesting things I found was that most streetfood is of foreign origin, whether it be Chinese, Malay, Indian or whatever. Some of the deserts are purely Thai, some of the small snacks too, but most streetfood, like guay teow (noodles) for instance, is Chinese in origin. So where is the real Thai food? In the homes mostly. These old nam priks, curries, salads, soups or whatever are around but you don’t see them as often on the streets because that’s not the place where they were originally created. They were eaten at home, with rice, amongst their families. Ok, so where’s the best streetfood in Bangkok? It’s impossible to say because there are stalls here, stalls there. Like the Thais, when I go into an area I will have a mental note of where the best food is. For instance, over in Thonburi there is a great goose shop, and then a little bit further down, a good duck shop. In Chinatown there is a shop that does fantastic oyster omelettes, or nearby snapshots

some smoked duck or there’s a really good ba mee noodle place. Should people be concerned about food poisoning from streetfood here? Alot are. Of all countries I think Thailand is possibly the safest. The thing with streetfood is, the vendors go to the market everyday and sell it everyday so the likelihood of it being poisonous is less than in a hotel, where they store it for a day or two before using it. We heard you despise Thai fusion. Is this true? I’m not enamored. I used to a little bit more precious about striving for authenticity, which seems ironic when you look at me, being a bloody westerner trying to be authentic about Thai food – in itself an impossibility. But as I get older I’m getting a bit more tolerant. Which Thai restaurants will we find you at? Bo.lan on Sukhumvit Soi 26. I’ve been there several times as the owners used to work at Nahm. Mainly when I’m in Bangkok I’ll eat in the streets and the markets and only go to a few restaurants. bangkok 101

Music in the Park

january calender BED

Every Thursday: Francois Lindemann Niu’s on Silom | 02-2665333 | www.niusonsilom. com | free

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

Fri 1: New Year’s Day: New Decade! Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit 11 | 02-6513537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

Sat 2: Blockshot Common Ground (Samsen Rd.) | 02-2870942-4 | www.blockshot. de

See Metrobeat ‘Rock & Pop’

Thu 7: DJ Sanda Rivera Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit 11 | 02-6513537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Fri 8 – Sun 10: Royal Trophy, Europe V Asia Golf Championship Amata Spring Country Club, Chonburi| 02-6519499 | www.theroyaltrophy.com | B1,000-2,000

See Metrobeat ‘Sport’

Tue 12: Green Day Live in Bangkok Impact Muang Thong Thani | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B800-2,600

See Metrobeat ‘Rock & Pop’

Fri 15 – Sun 17: The Bangkok International Tattoo Convention 2010 Impact Muang Thong Thani | 02-712-9892 | www.bangkoktattoo convention.com | free

Until Feb 14: Music in the Park

Thu 14: DJ Danny Howells

Lumpini Park, Rama IV Rd. | 02-255-6617-8, 02-254-4954 | www.bangkoksymphony. org | free (every Sunday)

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit 11 | 02-6513537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

Fri 15: DJ Joey Negro

Until Sun 17: Thai Folk Wisdom

Sun 17: Heavy Night: Nu Metal Revisited

Qbar Sukhumvit 11 | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com

BACC, Rama I Rd.| 02214 6630-8 | www.bacc.or.th | free

The Rock Pub, Ratchathewi | 02-2519980 | B160

See Metrobeat ‘Classical’

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Thu 14 – Sun 17: Happy Kids Festival QSNCC | 02-57-2559 | www.planforkids.com | free Joachim

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

See Metrobeat ‘Art’

See Metrobeat ‘Rock & Pop’

See Metrobeat ‘Events’

Thu 28: Rehab! Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit 11 | 02-6513537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Sanda

bangkok 101

Thu 21: DJ Joachim Garraud Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit 11 | 02-6513537 | www.bedsupperclub.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’ Sat 30: Culture One International Dance Festival

Sat 30 – Sun 31: 25th Anniversary MICRO Rock Lek Lek RETURNs

Bangkok International Trade and Exhibition Centre (BITEC), 88 Bangna-Trad Road (Km 1) | www.clubculture-bkk.com/one Top dance DJs from Thailand and across the globe set up camp lakeside at BITEC.

Impact Muang Thong Thani | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B500 – 3,500 ‘80s rock pop balladsters Micro perform for the first time in six years.

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Until Sun 31: Alice Day Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02-649-8353 | www.sheratongrande sukhumvit.com

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

Trade Fairs Performance Live Music Shopping Festivals/Events Food & Drink Charity Sport Nightlife

Snapshots

metro beat

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings, by Howard Richardson.

rock & pop

nightlife New York Puerto Rican DJ Sandy Rivera is “tough, techy, minimal and soulful” at Bed Supperclub (02-651-3537) on January 7. He leads off on a month of imported talent that includes British House DJ Danny Howells (Jan 14) and Joachim Garraud – voted Best French Producer and DJ 2009 by Only For DJ’s Magazine. He arrives on January 21. And January 28 is the 7th Anniversary Party of Rehab!, Bangkok’s first electro club. British DJ/producer/remixer Dave Lee comes to Q Bar (02-252-3274) on January 15, under the name DJ Joey Negro, one of his many alter egos. Lee – one of the pioneers of disco samples in house music almost 20 years ago – has fostered chart-topping remixes and productions with stars like Diana Ross, Pet Shop Boys, Lionel Ritchie and the Brand New Heavies. See www.joeynegro.com for full stats.

jazz Francois Lindemann takes an interesting approach to improvisation every Thursday at Niu’s on Silom (02-266-5333, reservation@ niusonsilom.com), when he sets up his piano and gongs alongside specially invited musicians from various ethnic backgrounds. So far he’s jammed with Indian tabla players and legendary local sax player Tewan, who also plays traditional Thai instruments. There’s live jazz at Niu’s every night. Free entry. Alice Day sings a good choice of not-too-obvious standards at the Sheraton Grande hotel (02-649-8353) until January 31. Backing comes from the excellent Triolive, with pianist Randy Cannon, Shawn Kelley (drums) Therdsak Wongvitchien (bass) and regular guest appearances by Randy’s brother Steve on trumpet. Nightly, free entry. 12

German post punk rockers Blockshot bring titles like ‘Me, Professional Stalker’ and ‘A Girl’s Toolbox’ to Common Ground, on Samsen Rd (02-287-0942) on January 2. Natasha (bass), Alva (guitar/vocals), Fatzo (keyboards) and Nina (drums) say they’re influenced by Bikini Kill and the pop of Sonic Youth and Fugazi. For sample tracks and info see www.blockshot.de. Green Day return to the Land of Smiles for the first time in 14 years, when they play Impact Arena (02-5045050) on January 12 as part of their 21st Century Breakdown Tour. The American alt rockers Billie Joe Armstrong (guitarist and lead vocalist), Mike Dirnt (bass) and Tré Cool (drums) will hammer out faves from their three Grammy winning albums Dookie, American Idiot and Boulevard of Broken Dreams. Tickets (B800-B2,600) are available from Thai Ticketmajor (02262 3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). On January 17, the Rock Pub (02-251-9980) promotes six bands for its Heavy Night: Nu Metal Revisited, including Outro (covering Deftones), Napkin (Slipknot) and Screwdriver (Korn). Entry B160.

classic The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra plays Music in the Park every Sunday in Lumpini Park from 5.30pm. Go boating on the lake, and then sit with a picnic on the grass to enjoy the cool season evenings to a soundtrack of popular classical, film scores and Broadway tunes. It’s become a Bangkok institution over the last 20 years. Entry free. Concerts run until February 14.

festivals This year’s edition of the Culture One: Bangkok International Dance Music Festival is at the Lakeside, BITEC (02-749-3939) on January 30. The ticket prices and DJ line up were unconfirmed at press time, but this promises to be a juicy bash, with street performance, a flea market and – judging by the flyers – some hot bondage dance routines from choreographer Cris Horwang. Check out www.club-culture-bkk.com for updates.

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bangkok 101

Food & drink

sport Top golfers descend on the Amata Spring Country Club for the Royal Trophy, Europe v Asia Golf Championship from January 8-10.The match-play format consists of four four somes, four four-ball and eight singles. The Asia team, led by Naomichi ‘Joe’ Ozaki, includes Thai favour ites Prayad Marksaeng and Thongchai Jaidee, plus Ryo Ishikawa. Europe draws on the likes of world number seven Henrik Stenson and Martin Kaymer, currently third on the European Tour. See www.theroyaltrophy.com for full details.

art The exhibition Thai Folk Wisdom at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (02-214-6632) until January 17, interprets traditional proverbs. Each proverb is accompanied by visuals by leading contemporary artists such as Jakkai Siributr, Manit Sriwanichpoom, and Pinaree Sanpitak, while SEA Write Award winner Jane Vejjajiva provides the text. River Books has published a Thai and English dual language book Thai Folk Wisdom to coincide with the show.

events Khao San Road’s celebrated body artists will be looking for tips at the Bangkok International Tattoo Convention at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) from January 15-17. Attending luminaries of the needle include Shige from Japan, Mike Ledger from USA, and “Dragon Master” Mick Zurich, from, er… Zurich. Plus,Thailand’s own Arjan Noo, who’s had the pleasure of inking Angelina Jolie, among others. Visit www.bangkoktattooconvention.com for more info. bangkok 101

The Seafood Bar

The food’s simple here – no fancy foams or emulsions – and the décor is just a notch up from café – Formica topped tables touched up with overhead pin lighting, a few strategically placed curtains and blue lights to evoke the ocean – yet these get-in-and-eat qualities are perfect foils for an excellent seafood dinner. Nisqually Sound, Belon, Fine de Claire, and a full 17 other varieties of gnarly oyster are displayed on beds of ice at the seafood bar, where you can choose to sit and eat, eyeing Alaskan King Crabs and live WHERE 41 Somerset Lake Place, lobsters brooding Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-663-8863 in bubbling tanks. OPEN Tue-Sat 6pm-11pm; Sun The menu comes 6pm-10pm; Sat-Sun noon-3pm with oyster tasting PRICE $$$ (unless you go for notes, like a wine lobster) list, plus a handful of starters and main fish courses. They get the seafood in fresh every Tuesday and Friday from Bali and the US and re-print the menu daily depending on what’s left. We took a fresh spring roll stuffed with smoked gindara (Japanese Black Cod) and grilled mango made slightly acidic by a lime marinade – delicious with a mildly spiced peanut dressing on the side – and a main course of firm, meaty Bali Monkfish cooked with a spicy crust and perfectly paired with a half rasher of pork belly and a bed of white beans. There’s a small, almost all-white wine list and two desserts. And that’s it. Simple genius. A great little restaurant.

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รร. โซเมอร์เซ็ท เลค พาร์ค สุขุมวิท 16

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history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lots of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the Sathorn/Silom

districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas and leafy public parks. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. These gradually-expanding public transpor tation networks, with their

bright, snaking trains carrying wideeyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped relieve the city’s notorious traffic congestion and pollution, but given this City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ but instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It is no surprise that The Guinness Book of Records registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

religion

Did you know?

h e majorit y of enlightened (mural paintThai Buddhist Thais (over 90%) ings in Thai temples often monks once a re T h e r av ad a depict tales of his former dyed their B udd his t s , w i t h t he lives, called jataka), so most own robes rest of the population Thais focus on attaining with colour split between Muslims, a better rebirth through extracted Christians, Sikhs and “making merit” – donating from turmeric and the Hindus. Older animist to the poor or a temple, or beliefs also remain, prac- heartwood and handing out rice to monks leaves from tised alongside a verduring their morning almsjackfruit trees; gathering processions. sion of the Buddhism now most that originated with the Nearly all Thai Buddhist robes come teachings of Siddhartha men will become monks, chemically Gautama, the Buddha, if only for a short time. dyed. in India around the 6th Women cannot be ordained century BC. but some become nuns, alTheravada Buddhism is based on though their numbers remain low. the concepts of dukkha (suffering), Contrary to Western perceptions of anicca (impermanence and tran- Buddhism as a religion above the fray sience), and anatta (impermanence of everyday life, monks and nuns have of the self) – suffering arises through launched HIV-education and drugattachment to impermanent condi- prevention campaigns, orphanages, tions. By working to extinguish at- and other social programmes. More tachment through meditation and controversially, a number of monks proper conduct, Buddhist practi- have begun advocating that Buddhism tioners can eventually attain spiri- should be enshrined in the new contual enlightenment (nirvana), freeing stitution as Thailand’s state religion. them from cycles of rebirth. A soul For more information on Buddhism is reborn according to its progress and meditation courses, check out (or lack of it) towards nirvana, with the World Fellowship of Buddhists at animals forming lower strata and www.wfb-hq.org and the international monks occupying the top. The Bud- homepage of Vipassana meditation dha himself took 550 lives to become centres at www.dhamma.org.

bangkok 101

snapshots

Spirit houses Hand in hand with their Buddhist faith, Thais still hold many animist beliefs. Spirit worship is widely practised and spirit houses can be seen on the corner of most residential and commercial properties. By providing the spirits (good and evil) with shelter, it’s hoped that they will protect houses or buildings from any harm or mischief. To make sure the spirits are kept happy, offerings of incense, fruit, flowers or rice are made every day. 15

Snapshots

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king with deep reverence for the monarchy. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family.Therefore, stand quietly when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and other public places. Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 16

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting.Thais don’t usually shake hands but rather wai (a prayerlike gesture with hands clasped in front of the face).This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows respect and humility.The higher the hands are raised, the more respect is being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (coolhearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ don’t step on the threshold ■ don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ be considerate when taking photographs ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

Longtail Boats & Barges

very thai Philip Cornwel-Smith

Photos by John Goss & Philip Cornwel-Smith

Just as hooking a motorbike to a rickshaw created the tuk-tuk, so bolting an Isuzu pick-up engine to a boat made the reua hang yao. Named ‘long-tail’ after a trailing drive shaft that can reverse or churn through 270°, the long, sleek craft is tailored to cramped shallow waterways. Made of takian wood lacquered with go-faster stripes, the hull tapers like a scimitar to a raised, needle-sharp prow. Its roof displays the telltale arc of all Siamese boat canopies, only made of deckchair-hued plastic rather than bamboo, thatch or galvanised iron. The passengers shelter behind plastic sheeting to avoid spray as the unmuffled engine rips through turbid khlong or salty shoreline, scattering swimmers and rattling nerves as the sound reverberates off cliffs and buildings. Serving as bus or taxi, large and small longtails weave deftly between barges, which glide imperceptibly by. The humped carapace of a fully loaded barge resembles a beetle swimming, with eyes painted on the stubby bow, and water lapping at the gunwales. Handsomest among these cargo vessels are the twin-ruddered reua iamchun (salt boat) and dumpier reua kracheng (rice barge). Formerly inched along by punt, and later by outboard longtail propeller, these takian-wood tubs have since been recast larger in iron. Once itinerant river gypsies, barge owners now have their boats shunted like train cars at the whim of a company tug, which strainingly sputters upstream. These brass and wood tugs with frilly awnings resemble the steam packet from ‘Around the World in 80 Days’. Only there’s no rush. Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt each month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic. Snap up a copy at any good book shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith bangkok 101

snapshots

Sightseeing

orientation

greater bangkok Cha

Thewet & Dusit

ph r a

Ko Rattanakosin Ch

hray

Thonburi

Chinatown

Siam Square & Pratunam

Sukhumvit Chaophraya

– steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is Modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan (p.28) is

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries and have different, tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.20) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th Century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly

where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting ‘burbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked streets in fridge-cool comfort! When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along smelly Klong Saen Saeb (p.120) and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.29), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly (p.18). In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13 : Phra Athit Bkk’s young bohemians pensively sip coffee in the cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street. There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

N10

N15 :Thewet Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

d. tR ra

N9 : Tha Chang Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

Na Phra Lan Rd.

Rd. arat Mah

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Ratchada

mnoen K

Kalayang Matri Rd.

lang Rd.

N5 : Ratchawongse Bangkok’s Chinatown! Taoist temples, mazy backstreets, mottled shophouses and no end of Sino sights, noises Rd. Muangand smells make it a must. Bamrung

Royal Grand Palace

d. ng R i Wa Tha Wat Po

Chinatown

Pak Klong Talad

Pahurat

Kl Phr ao a P Br ok id ge

N1 : Oriental The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

Millenium Hilton

Wongwian Ya

ksin R

N6 : Memorial Bridge/ Saphan Pood Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

tc ha wo n

N6 Wat Arun

N2 : Sri Phaya On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

Charoen Krung Rd.

ai Rd. Sanam Ch

N15

N13

Amulet Market

Wat Mahatat

N8 :Tha Tien Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.31) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

Ratc hada mno Sana en N m ai Rd Luan . g

N10 : Wang Lang Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.56) are all in the vicinity.

ra ge Ph id et Br o mdla So K n Pi

101

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on.The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which follows a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables see www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

bangkok 101

o Ta Cha Phra Som det

Saphan Taksin Accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to Mandarin Oriental, Pennisula and Millenium Hilton hotels. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

Penninsula

Wongwian Yai

Krung Thonburi Rd. KrungThonburi

N1 Taks

in Br

idg

e SapanTaksin

sightseeing

Sightseeing

route 101

Whether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here. Wat Arun

Rattanakosin

elcome to Rattanakosin Island:historical heartland of modern Bangkok, spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Surrounded by man-made klongs (canals) and the Chao Phraya River, and immune to highrise developments, its charms include decaying old shophouses (as opposed to 50-storey monsters) and the highest density of sacred must-sees in Bangkok. Whether you’re here for a few hours, a few days or more, every itinerary should include some time here.

sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

oa d

ath ai R

oad noe nN ok R

dam

c ha Rat kh

Luk Luang Road

Road

oad

ad Ro ak Wo ra

g Road Ti Thon

Bamrung Muang Road

hai R

Muang Ro

Mahac

Bamrung

Charoen Krung Road

NORTH

The Deck

Phra Phi Phit Road

M Ro

Phra Buddha Yodfa Monument

recommended sites: n Khao San Road Backpackers and all their material attachments. n Wat Mahathat A centre of Buddhist teaching hemmed in by a jostling amulet market. n The Giant Swing Men reached hazardous heights here during annual ceremonies... until it was banned. n Phra Athit Road Bohemian cafes, a tranquil park and an old fort converge upon one tree-shaded street.

sightseeing

Saphan Phut Pier

ka ph

Tha Thien Pier Tha Rachinee Pier

1. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) 2. Wat Po (Wat Phra Chetuphon) 3. Wat Phra Kaew 4. National Museum

PAHURAT

a aw

S on

Dinso

mno

hada Ratc

Tanao Ro

en N

ai Ro ad

hat R oad

hra T Na P

Wat Po

Thipsamai

Sao Ching Cha (Giant Swing)

Atsadang Road Rachini Road

Roa

oad ang R Road Rachini

hai

ng i Wa

Tha

ai Road

Sanam Ch

The Grand Palace

at T

Mah

fs b!Sjw Dibp!Qisbz

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Democracy Monument

Road

nR me Su

Klang

PHRA NAKHON

Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn)

ra Ph

Atsad

Sana Luanm g

noen

Na Phra Lan Road

Tha Thien Pier

isu

ge id Br

Tha Chang Food Market

adam

Wat Mahathat

ac ha thi p

Ratch

Phrannok Pier

Tha Chang Pier

Kao San Ro

Tha Chang Pier

BANGLAMPHU

Thammasat University

Tha Maharat Pier

khon Road

n Pi

National Museum

Tha Phra Chan Pier

Fuang Na

ra Ph Thonburi Railway Pier

Dinso Road

oad

Tanao Rd

ao Kl

R sat Ka

n Pi

Tha Phra Athit Pier

oa d

Saphan Phra Pin Klao Pier

Sa ms en R

Khin Lom Chom Saphan

t isu W

tP de

bangkok 101

Democracy Monument

Wat Sam Phraya Pier

101

First stop is Wat Arun (p.31), also known as the Temple of Dawn. Actually pre-dating the Rattanakosin era, it’s a cornerstone of Thailand’s history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin then, once at the river, jump on an express boat (ask someone to point out which boat is an express). As you face the river, you want to be going right, upriver. Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its spire aglow, is easy to spot. After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross the river back to Tha Tien pier. Then make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.32). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles de-knotted at the famous Thai massage school. Temple initiation over, head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.31) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.31). Snub the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to pace, reverentially, around this gilded fairytale of a royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.30). Hungry for more Thai history? Then exit and head north across the ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.36). Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably find it is early evening.The rest of your evening is up to you – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some pad thai with the backpackers along Khao San Road. Or hit a cocktail bar like Amorosa, with its picture-postcard views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun.

Dining pit-stops: Use these restaurants to recharge en route. n The Deck Open-air restaurant with stunning views of river-straddling Wat Arun. 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com n Khin Lom Chom Saphan Feast on Thai seafood while eyeballing river reflections of Rama VIII Bridge. 11/6 Soi Samsen 3 | 02-628-8382 n Thipsamai Famous pad thai restaurant. 313 Mahachai Rd | www.thipsamai.com n Tha Chang Food Market A lipsmacking local market unfurls here each day. 21

Sightseeing

route 101

cHINATOWN

hinatown or Yaowarat, as it is known locally, is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, dramatic Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. The centre of Bangkok’s Chinese community actually used to be a couple of clicks west, but when King Rama V decided to build his palace on Rattanakosin Island the neighbourhood decamped en masse to its current location.

It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in the Chinese pharmacy windows. Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive at night when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. It’s quite a sight. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and look over to your right to take in Bangkok’s impressive main train station. This Renaissance-style edifice dates back to the early 20th century when King Rama V commissioned a bunch of Italian architects and engineers to give the capital a dash of European élan. Head straight on from Exit 1 and cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap ThaiChina Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, sightseeing

Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.32) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex. Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/ impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1 Rd). This wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than hair clips and rubber sandals on offer now. The lane’s not wide to start with, but fill it with food carts, dawdling shoppers and delivery boys on Vespas loaded with Hello Kitty schoolbags and you feel like a human pinball. Great fun! Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a bangkok 101

ban

n Thian Fah Foundation This atmospheric complex incorporates a hospital and another, more elegant shrine dedicated to Kuan Yim.

over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on, there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’re there at breakfast time, head on in for a seething, groaning wet-market with everything from huge sacks of tea and dried mushrooms to plastic tubs of writhing catfish. If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neon-lit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Rd will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery to give your feet a well-earned rest.

Rd hin a

Th ai-C hab tap Mit

Phadung Dao Rd

Trongsawat Rd

Yaowaphanit Rd

11 Rd Soi Yaowarat

Mittraphan Rd

Phlap Pla Chai Rd Plaeng Nam Rd

Soi Charoen Krung 16 Rd

Soi Yaowarat 6 Rd

Mungkorn Rd

Soi Yaowarat 8 Rd

at 15 Rd

Mungkorn Rd

Soi Charoen Krung 14 Rd

Ratchawong Rd

Soi Yaowar

Ratchawong Rd

1 Rd

n Hua Seng Hong 371-373 Yaowarat Rd | 02-222-0635 | 9am-midnight Look out for the bright yellow sign, then squeeze past the crabs, ducks and shark fins into an air-conditioned dining room for tasty, reasonably priced Chinese fare.

n Canton House Chaloem Buri Intersection | 02-2213335 | 11am-10pm Cheap, tasty and air-conditioned, Canton House has a great selection of dim-sum from B15 a pop.

Eat n T&K Seafood 49-52 Soi Phaduang, Yaowarat Rd | 02-2234519 | 4:30pm-2am Watch the crowds roll by and dishes being hoisted down on fishing lines from the upstairs kitchen.

th ut

Chaloem Buri Intersection

P ha

ar oe

Soi W anit

Sam

phe

bangkok 101

n Wat Mangkorn Kamalawat Fight your way through the vendors in the entranceway and head straight to the temple at the back for a truly memorable experience.

Information

Old market

Soi Wanit 1

Sbudibxpoh !Qjfs

Yaowarat Rd

Song Wat Rd

China Town Scala restaurant

Yaowarat Rd

Hua Lamphong Railway Station

ase

Rama IV Rd t2

Shangarila restaurant

Wat Kunmatay

Mai market

ara ow

Wat Bamphen

Kwang Tung Shrine

Rd i Ya

Grand China Princess Hotel

Charoen Krung

gK un

HUA LAMPHONG

Suapa Rd

choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonialstyle warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.104) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross back over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross

101

See n San Chao Poy Sien Okay, it looks like a souvenir shop, but it’s actually a funky little shrine. Pop upstairs to the weird plastic cave-room to see the statue of the Chinese god Kuan Yim.

Lan

Wat Ko

Song Wat Rd

at R ng W

Wat Sampheng

1. Wat Traimit Witthayaram 2. San Chao Poy Sien shrine Auphairat 3. Wat Thian Fah Foundation 4. bamrung Canton House 5. Wat Mangkorn Kamalawat 6. Hua Seng Hong 7. T&K Seafood

Chao Phraya River sightseeing

Sightseeing Benjakitti Park

route 101

Quenn Sirikit Convention Center

Sukhumvit

ike Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner, Sukhumvit Road is a futuristic thriller – a flawed, frenetic, yet often compelling urban streetscape. Towering hotels, condominiums and offices sprawl east across its skyline, while down below a global Who’s Who races anonymously among them. Along its main stretch cars and c oncrete assail the senses, while down its many flanking sois calmer, more serene atmospheres unfold. Once a suburban backwater dominated by a stretch of rice fields, Sukhumvit has evolved into the residential destination of choice for aspirational Thais and the expats who work with them. As a result, it has developed its own village culture – marked by twee cafés, achingly hip boutiques and a veritable nation of fantastical day spas. In other words, when temple and museum-weariness 24

set in, Sukhumvit could very well offer the perfect antidote. Only helping matters is the Skytrain, which swooshes like a slo-mo bullet above it. Get a quick jump on the day and loosen up with a morning stroll around the lake in Benjakitti Park. Located adjacent to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, which hosts world class expos weekly (see calendar p.11), it is easily accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. Next head to the Siam Society for a quick shot of culture. On Asok Road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross), it’s an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures and exhibitions. And out back is a stunning Northern Lanna teak house/ ethnological museum. After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain sightseeing

and off to Phrom Phong station. Here you will find the cultural epicentre of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, Emporium. While you can easily get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, world-class designers and up-and-coming Thai labels here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) on the sixth floor which continually stages thoughtprovoking, and usually free, exhibitions. Even better yet, TCDC is a short escalator ride away from the food floor, a United Nations of culinary possibilities. If your back is aching from scrutinising all those exhibits, why not take a stretch among the modern sculptures and trim greenery of adjoining Benjasiri Park? Shopaholics can probe Thong Lo further, staking out the neighbourhood bangkok 101

ban

ong L o)

(Soi T h

oi 1

Coffee Beans by Dao

vit 6

Prakanong)

3 (So i Ek a

mai)

Soi S u

Soi Sukhumvit 71 (Soi

khum

Agalico 51

Soi 24

THONG LO

adapis

Ratch

vit

EKAMAI

Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai)

ek Rd

1 Benjakitti Park

Nang Len

Soi

Soi 22

Soi 20

PHROM PHONG

Benjasiri Park

Thailand Tobacco Monopoly

khum vit 55

Soi Sukh um

Rasayana Retreat Novotel Lotus

Soi 18

SUKHUMVIT

4 Uomasa

Shades of Retro

Soi S u

SUKHUMVIT Soi 14

Crêpes and Co

Soi 31

ASOKE

Soi 33

Soi 23

Westin

Ekamai

Divana Divine

vit 39 (S oi Prom

-mitr

phong)

Soi Prom

QUEEN SIRIKIT NATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE

EAT Coffee Bean by Dao | Casa Viva Apartment, Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-713-2504~8 The cheesecakes at this local hi-so cake stop are out of this world. n Crêpes & Co | 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | 02-653-3990 Nestled in a quiet soi, in a palm-fronded garden, this French/Meditterean cafe serves an excellent all-day brunch. n Agalico | 20 Sukhumvit 51 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-662-5857 An all-white tea lounge situated in a lush garden. Only open weekends.Take a ride down Sukhumvit Soi 51, and take the first right. n Uomasa | Nihomura, 87 Thong Lor Soi 13 | 02-392-6575 Found in the wooden Nihomura compound, Uomasa is particularly recommended for sashimi lovers. n

Soi 25 Soi 29

vit

PHETCHABURI

Soi 49

Soi 10

Soi 8

Cheap Charlie’s

Soi 26

Soi Sukhum vit 21 (Asok e)

Nest

Thong Lo

Soi 19

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for designer clothing, jewellery, furniture and books. Or, should you be toying with matrimony, wedding garb. Hop on over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice of neon Tokyo and watch as beautiful people and their even prettier cars roll in. Once dinnertime rolls around check out “Japan Town” in Thong Lor Soi 13, where a clutch of great Japanese restaurants like Uomasa lurk.

Crystal Spa

bangkok 101

Q Bar

Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, the night time is definitely the right time. Drinking, dining, dancing, debauchery... it’s all here. For a go on a shisha pipe, Sukhumvit Soi 3 is Bangkok’s very own Little Arabia. Those looking to make a very Thai night of it (whisky sodas, a Thai live band) should head to one of the jumping joints along Thong Lor or Ekkamai. Sukhumvit Soi 11 – home to veterans like Bed Supperclub and Q Bar (p.84) – will satisfy your international clubbing needs. But for the best of Sukhumvit’s beau monde haunts its got to be Long Table (p.86): a cocktail at this 25th floor design bar, with its movers and shakers and electric panoramas, is not easily forgotten. sightseeing

2,Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | BTS Thong Lor | 081-824-8011 | 1pmmidnight People craving a drink and some laid-back conversation need look no further than antique store/ nostalgia café Shades of Retro. n Cheap Charlie’s | Sukhumvit Soi 11 Bangkok’s most bizarre bar (p.89). n Nest | Sukhumvit Soi 11 Found opposite Q Bar, this sleek yet cosy rooftop bar won’t ruffle your feathers. n Nang Len | Ekkamai Soi 5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-711-6565 The name means “to sit around” inThai. However you’d probably win the lottery before you find a seat here on weekends. SPA n Divana Divine Spa | 103 Thong

Sightseeing

route 101

Silom & Sathorn

heSathorn/Silomareapersonifies Bangkok’s split personality. The white collar, bustling crux of Bangkok’s business world by day, this whirlwind area houses a grab bag of cultural and religious sites. But when night falls this area hustles, gyrates, and rears a very different head. Home to a large chunk of Bangkok’s corporate world, this Silom and Sathorn spills over with yuppies and bigwigs during the day, kicking it up a gear after office hours, with a jiving scene of clubs, expat pubs, some very shady characters, and one oh-so-notorious little lane. Niu’s on Silom

Set the alarm and beat the sun to the punch; there’s much to be done today. Take the MRT to the Sam Yan stop. Walk towards Silom and take a venomous venture into the Snake Farm (see p.35) and watch wranglers extract poison from serpents. If you dare you can even pet a cobra or kiss a python! If you’re still alive, continue on for a nice stroll in Lumphini Park, Bangkok’s largest public open area. If it’s the weekend take a taxi into the past with former P.M. Kukrit’s Heritage House (see p.30). By now you’re probably famished, so go back down Convent Road, a treeshaded soi lined with Irish pubs, Mexican, Japanese, Italian and various other farangorientated eating establishments. After filling up follow the throngs of office workers into Soi Lalai Sup (“the soi that melts your assets”), squeezing through the chaos, hunting down bargains on clothes, gifts and other knick-knack paddywhacks. Further down Silom on Thanon Pan, you will come across Wat Mahamariamman. Referred to by locals as Wat Kaek, it is the most famous Hindu temple in Bangkok and rituals are performed here daily at noon. Right across the street is Kathmandu Gallery (see p.49) featuring great photo exhibits, and also Silom Village which is a nice spot to pick up some handicrafts. sightseeing

Just before sunset hits, head up to the top floor of the Banyan Tree and ascend the aptly titled Moon Bar at Vertigo (see p.87). Two hundred metres above the pavement, this bar’s main attraction is the completely unobstructed 360° Bangkok panorama (other rooftop bars in the area include State Tower’s equally spectacular Sky Bar or, if raining, the indoors V9 at the Sofitel Silom). Do not stray too far over the railing as the only thing to break your fall here is the concrete sidewalk. Once you’ve soaked it all in, or if your knees are shaking, descend back to street level. The night is still far too young. Cab it to Lumpini National Boxing Stadium (see p.114) around the corner, which will guarantee adrenaline rushes, as young men kick and punch the hell out of each other. For something less violent, Suan Lum Night Bazaar (see p.104), a pricier but less sweaty version of Chatuchak is just seconds away. Seafood restaurants abound here and the Joe Louis Puppet Theater (see p.56) is great for a cultural show. There’s also a good beer garden. Time to think about wrapping the day up. If you’re a jazz-lover a class act can always be found at Niu’s on Silom, as can fine Italian food and fivestar service. Or, if wine’s your thang, head to suave oenophile hangout Kukrit’s House

Lumphini Boxing Stadium

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Opus. For more rowdy (and raunchy) times, head back to Silom. There’s still shopping to be done here as many street vendors are just starting their day selling trinkets, clothes and cheap knock-offs. If you’re looking for something more hip, the bars and clubs in Silom Soi 4 will suffice. If you’re gay, look no further than same-sex central, Silom Soi 2. And if you’re feeling frisky and don’t mind being harassed by aggressive touts, immerse yourself in the decadent not-so-underworld that is Soi Patpong. Be careful around here and do not follow strangers offering you free shows. But don’t hold back, because whatever you choose to do in this part of town at this time, you’re most likely to wake up with no recollection of it.

EAT n Eat Me! 20 M. off Convent Rd. (Soi Pipat 2), Silom| BTS Sala Daeng | 02-238-0931 | www.eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm -1am Popular with expats, this trendy restaurant-cum-art-gallery serves tasty fusions. n Naj 42 Convent Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-2811 | www.najcuisine.com | 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11:30pm The Thai food and white house setting is dignified and elegant, so put your new silk shirt on. n Spanish on 4 78-80 Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-632-9955 | www.tapascafebangkok. com | Mon-Fri 11am-1am, Sat-Sun 11am-2am Watch night-owls strutting Silom’s party soi while feasting on tasty tapas and delicious sangria. n Coyote on Covent Sivadon Building, 1/2 Convent Road | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-631-2325 Mouthwatering Mexicana: Burritos, enchiladas, 50-plus Margeritas. DRINK n OPUS 64 Pan Road, Soi Wat Kaek, Silom | BTS Surasak | 02-637-9899 An urbane wine bar stocking 400, sightseeing

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Ubuntu Shop 9, Grand Terrace Condominium, Sala Daeng Rd | 02-632-0381 Buy everything from coffee to rustic art and t-shirts at this funky hybrid. n Jim Thompson 9 Surawong Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-8100 | www. jimthompson.com Sumptuous silk items at the American enigma’s flagship store. Spa n Health

Sightseeing

route 101 CentralWorld

Pathumwan

Siam and Pr atunam BACC

of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride on Klong Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at Jim Thompson’s House (see p.30). Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps ri R

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he Pratunam and Siam Square districts are famed as a shopper’s paradise. From the chaos of the shop-4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. Hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the canal (khlong) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 105), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand. Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise

indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi. Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the crisp, concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modern art scene central. After all this walking, a sit-down is probably in order. CentralWorld, Asia’s largest “lifestyle shopping complex”, houses scores of great restaurants and a fantastic cinema complex, where you can treat yourself to a ‘luxury cinema’ screening (see p.58). Top off your day with a yin-yang cocktail at Centara Grand hotel’s ultra-chic rooftop bar, Red Sky (p.86). You don’t even need to leave the bracing confines of the CentralWorld complex to get there. Just take an escalator to level one, catch a lift to the hotel’s lobby, and from there make like a rocket to the 55th floor.

Lumphini Park

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: a Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. 30

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temples majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature examples of Thai mural art documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced.

The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m² royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. Though King Bhumibol now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth

seeing, and there are some state rooms and halls open to visitors.These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, this forms the north-eastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. After being moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings and then taken by the Lao to Vientiane, Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and placed it at the centre of his new capital. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the

WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

Wat Arun

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

The Giant Swing

temples WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art 32

and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the respected Maha Makut Buddhist University, this temple is par ticularly important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm | B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha sightseeing

possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good fortune.

วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-5pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

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Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium (see below). Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Eskimo. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones.The city’s parks (see p.35) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.104), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo (p.35) is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World (p.35) is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. On a more scholarly note, there’s a cracking museum aimed at inquisitive young minds. The Children’s Discovery Museum has a science and nature theme and is handily located near to Chatuchak. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old. The Children’s Discovery Museum (map C1) Kamphaeng Petch 4 Rd, Chatuchak | 02-6157333 | www.bkkchildren museum.com | Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am- 6pm | B150 Near the Chatuchak weekend market, this interactive museum aimed at younger guests covers science, nature and the environment. It also hosts regular courses and activity camps. พิพิธภัณฑ์เด็กกรุงเทพมหานคร

Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์ ตรงข้ามสวนจตุจักร

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which bangkok 101

performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Ganesha Shrine

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum. com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B40 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) and start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am-5pm | B30 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya, when the crews number up to 64 and include rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and musicians. Beautiful and ornate, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

Oddball Museums

It’s not all Buddhist art you know. Several museums in and around Bangkok delve into Thailand’s wacky and idiosyncratic. Definitely the most macabre, the Si Quey Forensics Museum revels in pickled body parts and cadavers of serial killers. A close second, the Corrections Museum uses lifelike models to recreate the rough justice meted out to crims in the not so old days (you’ll think twice about that sly toke after a trip here). Also in central Bangkok, the Museum of Counterfeit Goods displays 1,500 of Thailand’s best forgeries. As long as you call ahead (and don’t use it as a means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong the next day), you’re welcome. On the outskirts, the weekends only House of Museums is a two-storey sprawl of retro curiosities. Finally, if you’re a cinephile interested in Thailand’s New Wave, learn about the heritage that inspired your Pen-Eks and Apichatpongs at the Thai Film Museum in Nakhom Pathom. By appointment on weekdays, here you walk among recreated film sets, old 16mm cameras and waxwork figures of Thai cine heroes. Si Quey Forensics Museum (Official Name ‘Siriraj Medical Museum’) 2 Prannok road, Bangkoknoi | www.si.mahidol.ac.th | 02- 419-7000 ext 6363 | Mon-Sat 9am – 4pm | B40

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศริ ริ าช ถ.พรานนก

Corrections Museum 436 Bangkok Remand Prison, Mahachai Rd., Samranrat, Phra Nakhon | Mon-Fri 9am - 4pm | 02-226-1704 | free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ราชทัณฑ์ เรือนจำเก่า ใกล้กบั สวนรมณีนาถ

Museum of Counterfeit Goods Supalai Grand Tower Building 26F, Rama III Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-653-5555 | www.tillekeandgibbins.com | by appointment only

อาคารศุภาลัยแกรนด์ทาวเวอร์ ถ.พระราม 3

House of Museums 170/17 Moo 17 Soi Klong Po 2, Salathammasop Rd., Taweewattana | 089-666-2008 | http://houseofmuseums.siam.edu | Sat-Sun 10am – 5pm | B30

บ้านพิพธิ ภัณฑ์ ซ.คลองโพ 2 ศาลาธรรมสพน์

Thai Film Museum 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom| www.nfat.org | 02-482- 2013-15 | weekday: appointment only, weekend tours: 10am, noon, 3pm | free

หอภาพยนตร์แห่งชาติ 94 หมู่ 3 ถ.พุทธมณฑลสาย 5

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02225-2777 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B300 Just a few blocks from the Grand Palace, the Children’s museum is located inside the historic Ministry of Commerce building. Inside the three storey, E-shaped Renaissance style building, built in 1921, is a series of interactive, animated, theme park-like sightseeing

exhibitions exploring the history of the Siamese people. For adult viewers making sense of each room might be confusing: topics unexpectedly jump from ethnicity to religion to ancient folklore. Kids though will find it an edutaining experience, and love playing with the vibrant touch screens.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

bangkok 101

ban

101

the great outdoors

Rama IX Royal Park

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

bangkok 101

CHATUCHAK and QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

Siam Ocean World (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’reThai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing. สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 35

Sightseeing

in the neighbourhood Max Crosbie-Jones

MUSEUM OF SIAM:

Discover the quintessence of Thai-ness

his is not one of those boring museums that you itch to leave after five minutes. Located in an old government building near Wat Po, the Museum of Siam is an interactive and hands-on place that you can happily lose a few hours in, as you attempt to discover the answer to the question: What is Thai-ness? Beginning with a slick video that asks this very question, this permanent exhibition takes you on a journey that spans Thailand’s pre-history to its tomorrow and, along the way, opens you up to its diversity of cultures and sponge-like nature. Only, instead of inch-thick glass and ‘Don’t Touch!’ signs, everywhere you stroll in this elegantly restored 1920s-era building there are hi-tech videos, animations, flashing touch screens and digital interactive games.

Take the opening Suvarnabhumi rooms. Here you learn about Southeast Asia as it was thousands of years ago, long before there were national borders, via details of archaeological finds, cartoon animations and Benetton-ad like displays of the five different ethnic tribes thought to have existed then. Later, there are exhibits on everything from Buddhism and ancient capital Ayutthaya to war, village life and Westernisation during King Rama V’s era. And again, it’s interactive all the way: you can watch videos featuring actors in loin cloths, blow up Burmese soldiers with a giant canon (a bit tasteless that one), get touchy feely with some bamboo crafts or dress up as a 20th century Thai nobleman. Hell, there’s even a old fashioned newscaster stand where you can break news of the latest coup or slice of state propaganda to the nation, not to mention a replica ‘60s diner, where you can puts tune on a jukebox, buy some khao pad American or get your photo taken with movie icon Mitr Chaibancha (albeit a cardboard cutout version). Staying true to its interactive and playful approach, the museum ends by inviting Thais to write their hopes and dreams for the future of Thailand on a digital monitor. As these sightseeing

are projected onto a large wall in the shape of thought bubbles, Thais leave pondering the evolution of their country, and the role they have to play in its future. Aside from all this, the building is also a sight in itself. Designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s favourite Italian architect, Mario Tamagno, the threestorey building is an elegant blend of towering Romanesque columns, terracotta paint and teak floors. Note also that although the Museum of Siam was designed to lure Thais away from the malls, great efforts have been made to make it attractive to foreign visitors too. The text throughout – from the exhibits and map to the games, videos and lovely souvenir book available in the bookshop – is written in decent English as well as Thai. For more on the Museum of Siam project a website run by design company Story! Inc, which created the content and conceptual design for the museum, provides a good roomby-room overview of what to expect. See www.museumofsiamproject.com 4 Sanamchai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue – Sun 10am – 6pm | B300

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ข้างโรงเรียนตัง้ ตรงจิตรพาณิชยการ bangkok 101

featured daytip

KOH KRED

A local river cruise is a mini-escape from Bangkok but why not travel a bit further to one of the city’s only true getaways? Perhaps the best of the bunch is Koh Kred, a tranquil island in the Chao Phraya River that retains the air of bygone times. Although it sits just outside the city limits, in Nonthaburi, Koh Kred is a zillion miles from Bangkok’s hustle; and thus the perfect palliative for jaded city slickers. Ever since an artificial canal created it in 1722, the islet has been populated by ethnic Mon people who’ve managed to preserve their traditional lifestyle by sticking to their ancestors’ livelihood: crafting earthenware pottery. Truly an island unto itself, the leisurely pace is infectious; most visitors take it slow, wandering along elevated walkways, past peddling youngsters, rickety Mon houses, and tiny shops selling crafts and ceramics. Pretty much everything here is lowkey. Expect wooden shacks leaning against palm trees and the occasional old moss-stained shrine or temple around which trees have encroached and bricks toppled. Circling Koh Kred in this fashion won’t take more than a few hours, several stops included, but you can also rent bicycles at the main pier. When passing through the rustic villages lined with shops, remember that this is not an open-air museum.

bangkok 101

Before long you will come across one of several open pottery warehouses. Each morning, artisans fire up their kilns and harden clay products – and inside most you can walk right up to the potter’s wheel. Traditional, handmade, red-black kwan arman is, with its intricate pattern, regarded to be the most attractive unglazed pottery around. Prices start at just B5 per piece, but can rise to hundreds of baht for large ones. Crowd pleasers also include ornate candle and incense holders (B200), noodle bowls (B40), and cups with carrying handles, available at any stall selling tea and coffee. Of the 20-plus workshops, you’ll find most in Pottery Village #1 (south of the temple) and Pottery Village #6 (on the north coast). The tranquil, Ayutthaya-style Wat Poramai Yikawat appeals more to locals, but the nearby museum is crammed with intricate earthenware. Here, craftsmen also hold daily demonstrations of their skills. Snack on otherwise hard-toget local and Mon treats. A must-try is khao cher, rice served with chilled fragrant water and side dishes: deepfried vegetables, fish, shrimp served in banana leaves. Or dokmai thood – crispy deep fried flowers (tastier than they sound). This Thai tempura can be had at the pier. Don’t forget to try the famous khanom, traditional Thai desserts. sightseeing

And should Koh Kred enchant you into staying, try Baan Dvara Prateep (tel 02-538-4212, 01-8455445; www.baandvaraprateep.com), a holistic retreat offering meditation and yoga courses, classes in traditional crafts, and simple but appealing Thaistyle accommodation.

Getting There The easiest way to get here is by organised day tour. Every weekend the Chao Phraya Express Boat (Tel. 02-623-6143; www. chaophrayaboat.co.th) offers guided tours (B300), but they’re not the only ones out there. Intrepid souls take the regular express boat to the northern terminus at Nonthaburi and hire a longtail boat (around B500 return including waiting time). Alternatively, take a taxi to Pak Kred’s Wat Sanam Nua and catch the ferry across the river. 37

Sightseeing Lop Buri

Uthai Thani

day tripping

Chai Nat Nakhon Ratchasima

Ang Thong Saraburi

Suphan Buri

It’s easy getting around in Thailand, and there are plenty of worthwhile excursions within easy reach of Bangkok; some one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent. AYUTTHAYA The capital of Siam from the 14th to 18th century, Ayutthaya was one of the richest cities in the East, until it was plundered by the Burmese in 1767 and its ruins left to nature. Today a Unesco World Heritage Site, its remnants – all Khmer-esque stupas, crumbling bricks and Buddha faces entwined in tree roots – make a wonderful daytrip. The 85km journey is best done by river. The major hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City. Many combine the trip with a visit to the Bang Pa-in Summer Palace.A former royal garden retreat, this presents a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly reflecting King Rama V’s love for all things European. Once at Ayutthaya, hop on a bike and scoot round highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. . LOPBURI Lopburi’s illustrious ruins date back over 1,000 years and can done on foot. During the Dvaravati period (6th-11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo until the Khmers took over the region during Angkor’s 10th century heyday. The Thais took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. And in the 1600s, King Narai made the city the second capital and fortified it against the Dutch navy 38

Ayutthaya

Kanchanaburi

Nakhon Pathom

Koh Kred

Pathumthani

Nakhon Nayok

Sa Kaeo

Nonthaburi Bangkok

Ratchaburi

Samut Sakhon Samut Songkhram

Samut Prakan

Chachoengsao

Chon Buri

Phetchaburi

threatening Ayutthaya. The remnants of the palace he built now serve as a public museum. The city is also littered with crumbling wats (temples) blending Khmer and Thai styles. Watch your belongings: the most famous – threeprang shrine Phra Prang Sam Yot (a prang is a spire-like vault) – is home to some mischievous macaque monkeys.

monuments and buildings. Built by the same benefactor, the smaller Erawan Museum features a towering threeheaded elephant sculpture. Inside are antiques and a stucco chapel, but most Thais come for the fantastical gardens and to pray for good luck at the esteemed shrine.-

NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120m high chedi (or stupa), the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century version. Situated around 55km west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in Thailand, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history.The other big draw is the Rose Garden, a picturesque 70-acre park featuring botanical gardens and mock-Thai village cultural shows.

KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film The Bridge on the River Kwai, Kanchanaburi town is a popular weekend getaway, offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreigners are attracted by the area’s history – namely the “Thai Burma Death Railway,” built by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The lush countryside around Kanchanaburi is home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking.

SAMUT PRAKAN Just down the road – 29km away – Samut Prakan has three big draws.The Crocodile Farm offers daily croc wrestling and elephant shows. Muang Boran (the Ancient City) is an open-air museum park featuring over 100 replicas of landmark Thai temples,

KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Home to wild elephants, deer, boar, tigers and innumerable species of birdlife, Khao Yai (2½ hour’s drive from Bangkok) is one of Thailand’s most impressive national parks. Hike through the jungle to altitudes of over 1,000m. Hire a

sightseeing

bangkok 101

guide as it’s easy to get lost – the park is over 2,000km2 in size, and local maps are not to be trusted. Fancy staying the night? There are state-run bungalows in the park and luxe resorts nearby. Wine lover? Some of Thailand’s top wineries – Chateau des Brumes, Granmonte Estate, PB Valley – are also in the vicinity. NAKHON RATCHASIMA (KORAT) Both a silk and trade hub, Nakhon Ratchasima is the country’s largest province and home to Korat, its second largest city.The moated town with city gates is rewarding; and the countryside has a surfeit of Khmer ruins left over from the Angkor period, the best being in the recently restored Phi Mai Historical Park (60km north of Korat). Pak Thong Chai (30km north of Korat) is Thailand’s leading silk village. And for horse-riding and the chance to milk cows, visit Farm Chok Chai, a working farm popular with Stetsonwearing agro-tourists. KOH KRED Highly recommended, this ickle car-free island sits on a kink in the Chao Phraya River and is home to a Mon community renowned for their ancestral red-clay pottery skills. Seriously sleepy during the week, the palm-clad place goes into commercial overdrive on weekends. Bangkok cityslickers stroll its narrow footpaths, past working pottery warehouses, old Buddhist temples and homes selling hand-finished ceramics and tasty Mon kanom (snacks). By the time they’ve gone full circle, a few hours later, they’re smitten. Take a regular express boat up the Chao Phraya River to Nonthaburi and hire a long-tailed boat (B500 approx). Alternatively, on Sundays, the Chao Phraya Express ferry offers a guided tour for B300 (www. chaophrayaboat.co.th). bangkok 101

SARABURI Though often overs hadowed by neighbouring Lopburi, this central province, 108km north of Bangkok, still packs a thrill or two. Its 1½m-long Buddha footprint makes Wat Phra Putthabhat one of the most important temples in the region. And caves, like Tham Phra Pothisat, draw crowds thanks to their beautiful stalactite formations and Buddhist bas-reliefs, as does Chet Sao Noi Waterfall. The main attraction though is definitely out in the fields – from Nov-Jan bright sunflowers blanket the land, providing vibrant photo opportunities galore. PHETCHABURI Sacred Buddhist caves, neoclassical palaces, a quirky provincial market town – there’s more to Petchaburi province than the beach resort town of Cha Am. Best savoured over a long-weekend, sights include Wat Yai, a beautiful 17th century temple complex; and the stalactite and sculpture strewn Tham Khao Luang cave. To the west is also the scandalously underrated Kaeng Krachan National Park, where camp sites, butterfly and bird watching, water rafting and a stunning reservoir fringed by undulating hills await. CHACHOENGSAO An hour’s drive to the east, Chachoengsao rarely make the travel guides but is popular with locals. Smothered along the banks of the Bang Pakong River, the town boasts the temple Wat Sothon and 100-year old market Talad Baan Mai, where vendors flog traditional delicacies from within wooden King Rama V-era shophouses. Renting a boat to go see the old teak and stilted houses that line the sightseeing

sides – and the dolphins who migrate here between Nov and Feb – is also popular. RATCHABURI Ratchaburi’s Damnoen Saduak floating market is the hokiest in the land. But “The Land of the Kings” does have other qualities: unspoilt klongs (canals), hot stream Bo Khloung, the cascading Kaew Chan waterfall, and stalagmite and stalactite caves. For artsy-boho types there’s also the Suan Silp Baan Din Arts Centre, staging performances of old Thai arts and workshops. And at Wat Khanon temple, NangYai puppetry (an evocative but dying artform where puppet silhouettes are projected onto fabric screens) survives. Performances are on Saturdays. CHON BURI When it comes to this industrialised province on the eastern seaboard, we say skip Pattaya, Thailand’s Sodom-onSea, and head for Koh Si Chang, a small fishing island a mere 40-minute/B40 ferry hop across the Gulf of Thailand from Si Racha Town. King Rama V loved it there; and after a few hours exploring its hillside temples, summer palaces and pebbly beaches, so will you. On the way home, Baen San is a local, bucket-and-spade beach; and Talad Nong Mon, in Chonburi town, offers toothsome regional snacks like khao lam (sweet sticky rice in bamboo tubes). SUPHAN BURI This is where it all went down: where the legendary King Naresuan fended off Burma and rid Thailand of foreign occupation, freeing it from the Pegu Kingdom way back in 1592. At the Don Chedi, 30km from central Suphan Buri, there is a statue erected in his honour, as well as an exhibition hall and museum. Other draws include the Thai Rice Farmer’s Museum, Bueng Chawak Aquarium (64km out of town), and ancient temples dating back almost 1,000 years.

Sightseeing

NEARBY ISLANDS/BEACHES

No time to jet down to Koh Samui or Phuket? A handful of beach resorts and islands close to Bangkok are perfect for last-minute escapes.These span the gamut from lonely beaches offering the odd reggae shack and driftwood sign, to cosmopolitan beach resorts that have adopted the ‘built it and they will come’ philosophy with mixed results. ■ PATTAYA/JOMTIEN Most famous for its seedy nightlife, Pattaya’s been trying – well, sort of – to re-establish itself as a family destination. Hundreds of hotels and eateries ensure competitive prices; and while the surfeit Koh Chang of self-enclosed resorts means it’s easy for those with kids or a sleaze intolerance to avoid the girly bars, sister beach Jomtien is still a better option. ■ KOH CHANG A large jungle-clad hilly gem that’s been found by the deluxe hotel industry. Spending the night in hammocks is impossible, but fantastic beaches are still here, some hiend touristy, some budget backpacker-y. Catch a bus from the Ekkamai bus station (approx 5 hours) or fly here with Bangkok Air via Trat (approx 2 hours). ■ KOH SAMET A retreat for hip Thai youngsters who invade the island to

FLOATING MARKETS

Amphawa

Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose. n DAMNOEN SADUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 1530 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang. 40

spend days swimming in clear waters and nights sipping Thai-whisky buckets or playing the guitar on the superclean beaches. It’s worth booking ahead on weekends and public holidays, lest you want to be a source of amusement as you trudge up and down the beach desperately looking for an overpriced room. ■ HUA HIN/CHA-AM The royal summer residence town receives hordes of Thai families and package tourists. The long beach is satisfying, and is dotted with plenty of top-notch resorts like Chiva Som, the Evason, Hyatt Regency, Hilton and more. The piers filled with seafood restaurants are more of an attraction, as is the addictive night market. Nearby Cha-am is Hua Hin’s smaller, less developed sister. Coach loads of Thai townies come here on weekends to fly kites, ride ponies and generally lark around in the ocean. ■ KO SI CHANG Located a cheap 45 minute ferry journey from Si Racha Town, in Chonburi province, scenic Koh Si Chang is seldom visited by foreign tourists. More fool them – though its more of a sightseer island than a sunbather island, it’s got picturesque lookouts, King Rama V era palaces and Chinese temples to explore.Those wanting to overnight can pick from a few cheap resorts and bungalows.

GETTING THERE By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 434-5558). n TALING CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday,Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly.

n AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season. GETTING THERE By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram.The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram.

GETTING THERE By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-424-5448 or 02424-1712). Damnoen Saduak

sightseeing

bangkok 101

upcountry festivals

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

22 Jan – 22 Feb Fringe Festival 2010, Hua Hin

7-10 January

Phuket International Boat Show, Phuket

Billing itself as “Asia’s biggest boat show on water,” this annual marine lifestyle showcase is the place to head if you own a boat or are in the market for one. For its four-day duration, expect the Royal Phuket Marina to be full of the latest luxury yachts and rich sorts swanning about on them.There’ll also be a forum tackling issues like ‘Maritime Security in an Archipelago Setting’. Oh, how the other half lives! www.phuketboatshow.com

Dive into an eclectic, often bizarre world of alternative theatre acts (including Israeli puppetry), performance and dance workshops, shorts movies, ballroom dancing, food fairs and more at Hua Hin’s 2010 Fringe Festival. It’s being organised by Patravadi Theatre, Bangkok’s leading experimental arts company, so expect shows of an international, if often avant-garde, quality. Shows will take place every Friday-Sunday. 02-833-5555, www.totalreservation.com

15-17 Jan

Bor Sang Umbrella Festival, Chiang Mai

28-30 January Ecotourist Eating Festival, Ranong

Now here’s a novel tourist drive campaign. Villagers in La Un District, some 80km northeast of southern Ranong’s provincial town, are inviting travellers to stop by for a free buffet featuring southern delicacies. All this in a thinly-veiled attempt to put Ranong on the eco-tourist map by informing them about the coastal province’s natural beauty and forest trails. Call the district office on 07-899-058 for more.

It’s festival time east of Chiang Mai and souvenir hunters should sharpen their wallets! Bor Sang is often referred to as the “Umbrella Village”, and justly so. Grab your cameras and pressie list and head out for a plethora of prettily painted saa-paper and silk parasols. Bands will play, and villagers compete to win the award for the year’s most attractive. Nearby San Kamphaeng also gets in on the act with its own handicrafts fair. For more information call TAT’s Chiang Mai Office on 05-324-8604.

31 Jan Khon Kaen International Marathon

The self-proclaimed “Greatest Marathon of Thailand” takes place again this month, 445km northeast of Bangkok. It will be split up into various diversions which include a 42km marathon, half-marathon, mini-marathon, and a 10km Walk & Fun Run. It will start and finish at the Golden Jubilee Convention Hall of Khon Kaen University, making a loop around the entire town. Marathon runners will be awarded a certificate and the winner will take home some cold hard cash. www.khonkaenmarathon.com bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

upcountry escape

MUKDAHAN

Its Thailand... only not as you know it

othing warms the traveller’s heart quite like a trip to Isaan, the colourful and culturally distinct but rarely visited Northeast of Thailand. Especially in January, when the mornings are fresh and cool, the afternoons hot but dry and the region’s wild flowers still in bloom. One province that fits at this time of year is quiet, small yet well-endowed Mukdahan. Though devoid of white silky beaches and hill-tribe trekking it boasts an abundance of tourist-lurers, from otherworldly national parks to insightful museums, Laos-inflected temples and, along its 70km long eastern border, scenic views over the mighty Mekong river and into Laos. Spend a couple of days here, say by driving north from the gateway province of Ubon Ratchathani along the highways that trace the Mekong River, and you’ll leave with a more nuanced understanding of the land of rice, somtum, rickety homemade tractors and pulsating morlam music. One that takes in the pre-history, the multi-tribal mix and the Laos and Vietnamese influence that permeates its culture, cuisine and trade. WHAT TO SEE The history of Mukdahan, a former city-state turned district in Nakhom Phanom turned independent province

Phu Pha Toeb National Park

in 1982, is a complex one that begins with its founding in 1767 during the late Ayutthaya period. A good place to learn about this, while enjoying lofty panoramas over the city, is at the 65metre tall Mukdahan Tower. In addition to good explanatory notes in English, there are old costumes belonging to former Mukdahan princes and its 8 indigenous tribes, as well as local tools and a collection of animistic battle charms (rhinoceros spike, shrunken deer horns etc). At the viewing deck on its 6th floor, slip B10 into the coin-operated observation binoculars and you’ll spot a) the Lao city of Suvannakhet on the

Kaeng Krabao

sightseeing

far banks, an important relay point for trade between Thailand and Vietnam; b) the 400m long Second Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge that links them. It’s mainly used by Thai day-trippers, many intent on blowing their hard earnt baht in casinos there (gambling is legal in Laos), but foreigners can also use it cross over into Laos. Visas are available on arrival. Near the bridge and river promenade is the Indochina Market, or Talat Indochin, a good place to bargain for local textiles such as silk, tied and dyed Mudmee silk, as well as imported goods ranging from shoddy electronics to Lao pop cassettes. This rice-producing province is blessed with 18 forest areas and national parks. One of the most scenic is Phu Pha Toeb National Park, 59 km2 of undulating sandstone mountains softened by deciduous forests and seasonal wildflowers (15km south of the city; camping available). Like Ubon Ratchathani province’s famous Pha Taem National Park, it has rock plateaus strewn with funny shaped rocks, known as hin thoep, and feels like a primordial land before time; so much so that if a hirsute caveman wielding a club and talking in ape-like grunts emerged out of the scrub you wouldn’t be surprised. bangkok 101

Nakorn Phanom

Lao Kalasin

g kon Me

Kaeng Krabao

Wat Manophirom

Roi Et

er Riv

Mukdahan

Phu Mu Forest Park

Phu Sa Dok Bua National Park

Yasothon

Wat Song Khon

Mountain-top Lotus ponds, Buddhist caves and prehistoric handprints also await at Phu Sa Dok Bua National Park, in the far southern district of Don Tan. And small Phu Mu Forest Park, at an elevation of 353 metres above sea level, offers beautiful views over a green patchwork of fields below. Mukdahan also boasts some Laosinflected Buddhist temples – the oldest example being Wan Yai district’s Wat Manophirom – as well as a Catholic church called Wat Songkhon. Serving a 2,000-strong community, many with roots in French Colonial Laos, this boxy modernist structure sits metres from where 7 catholic nuns were gunned down by police for their missionary zeal during the height of the 1940s Franco-Thai conflict. A few km north of these is Kaeng Krabao, a terrace overlooking little rock islets and rapids that appear in the

GETTING AROUND Mukdahan is located 642km from Bangkok and 170km north of Ubon Ratchathani, a gateway province served by daily flights from Bangkok and with hire cars or vans (with drivers) available at the airport. Chaw Wattana has a counter here and can arrange vans with or without driver (045-242-202). Budget Cars also has a counter (045240-507, www.budget.co.th); expect to pay between B1,200-1,800 a day. STAY THAI HOUSE ISAAN 11-m10 Ban Kham Phok, Non Yang Nong Song, Near Mukdahan | 087065-4635, 085-925-9640 | www. thaihouse-isaan.com | B700 – 1,500 RABIANG MUK http://www.rabiangmuk.com Burma

Laos

Chiang Mai

Mukdahan

man

Anda

Bangkok

Sea

Mekong River during the dry season. Grab a scenic lunch here: the riverside restaurants serve superlative som-tum and gai yang, as well as a delicious if slightly gruesome delicacy, moo kaeng krabao (barbequed suckling piglet). Accommodation in the area is of the simple variety; the lack of a steady tourist flow means no 5-star or boutique options. Thai House Isaan is a rustic, family-run B&B 60km west of Mukdahan town on highway 2042, while Rabiang Muk is a decent new choice in town, with clean, spacious air-con and wi-fi’d rooms going for B550 daily. It also has the benefit of being only a short stroll from two tasty spots. The first, Haa Yaek, is a fiveway junction where food vendors, many descendants of Vietnamese immigrants, serve morning snacks like kuay jup yuan (Vietnamese noodle soup), moo yoo (Vietnamese sausage) and khao kriab pak moh (steamed rice pancakes). The second is the Night Market, the lively epicentre of Mukdahan city life.

Amnat Charoen

Cambodia

Koh Samui

Vietnam

Gulf of Thailand Phuket

bangkok 101

sightseeing Malaysia

Sightseeing

over the border

Luang Prabang Just a two-hour flight, yet seemingly world’s away from the congestion of Bangkok, Luang Prabang is among South East Asia’s holiest cultural grails. This enchanting, ancient royal capital is one of the region’s best-preserved cities, and a must on any Laos itinerary. Poised peacefully at the confluence of the Mekong River and one of its tributaries, Luanhg Prabang is a living museum.The spectacular fusion of traditional Lao architecture – stunning temples and shop houses – and European colonial charm is a major draw. In 1995, the whole town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which has helped to preserve the historic, religious and architecture legacy of the city. Compact and easy to navigate, nearly all of Luang Prabang’s major sights can be reached on foot or by rented bicycle. Slap in the centre of town, the centuryold Royal Palace Museum, a fusion of French and Laotian architecture styles constructed in 1904, houses relics belonging to former Royalty, including the most sacred Buddhist image in Lao. Facing it is Phousi Temple, a mural-splashed temple complex that sits astride lofty Mount Meru. Be sure to brave the thighbusting hike – this offers by far the most photogenic panoramas in afield there are eerie, Buddha statute filled limestone caves and waterfalls to explore. For textile lovers, Lao is world renowned for the high quality of its woven silk and cotton. Embroidery craft fashioned and sold by hill tribe minority people of the area can be found at the nightly street market in the centre of town. For the chic and unique, drop into Ock Pop Tok (www.ockpoptok.com), a delightful clothing and accessories boutique doing modern Laotian designs. 44

sightseeing

bangkok 101

GETTING THERE Laos Airlines flies direct every Monday, Wednesday and Friday - Sunday. For more information call 02-664-0661-2 or visit www. laos-airlines.com. Bangkok Airways operates flights twice a day, everyday. For more information call 02-265-5678 or visit www. bangkokair.com. The cheaper and more scenic route, though, is the fast or slowboat down the Mekong from Chiang Kong, just over the border from North Thailand. Stay n VILLA SANTI Sakkarine Road | Tel: 071-252-157 | www.villasatinhotel.com n THE 3 NAGAS Sakkarine Road | Tel: 071-253-888 | www.3nagas.com n THE APSARA Thanon Kingkitsarath | Tel: 071254-670 | www.theapsara.com n LA RESIDENCE PHOU VAO 2429 Phou Vao Road | Tel: 071-212530 | www.pansea.com

You can stay in elegance, decadence or both. There’s simple yet stately accommodation at The Apsara, a former storehouse gone contemporary. For old world charm in town, consider the former royal residence Villa Santi, or its classier, colonial-inspired neighbour 3 Nagas. Atop a hill on the outskirts of town, La Residence Phou Vao is the last world in tropical luxury.

bangkok 101

From fresh baguettes to Luang Prabang sausage, there is some decent food to be had here, especially along the easternmost stretch of Xiang Thong Road, where international cafes vie with traditional, if not slightly tame, Laotian offerings. More restaurants are sprinkled across town – and there’s a couple, like View Kheamkhong, where you can chow down inexpensive local cuisine while overlooking the Mekhong. There are short and inexpensive flights direct from Bangkok, but intrepid souls with a bit of extra time should consider going overland: north to Chiang Kong in Thailand’s Golden Thailand, across the Mekong River to Huay Xai on the Laotian side and down river all the way to Luang Prabang; daredevil speedboats do it in six hours; slow boats take two days for journey. Either way, it’s an unforgettable ride. sightseeing

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional absorption of all things American and

Galerie N

European, many of Thailand’s freshfaced generation of artists are infatuated with the street-style, urban iconography of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, Korea and increasingly China. An indicator of the growing profile of Thai art could be in the proliferation of new commercial galleries that have opened in the last couple of years, with Bangkok gaining over a dozen new venues in different areas across the city. These include artist -run spaces such as printmaker and sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s hotbed of young conceptualists at Gallery VER. While Thailand’s ongoing political debacle has complicated ar tistic planning, the decade-plus wait for the new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opposite MBK shopping mall, is over. For news of its exhibitions, performances and the like log on to www.bacc.or.th GALLERIES The majority of contemporary art on view in Bangkok is produced by domestic practitioners, several of whom are now receiving significant international exposure, though there is ar ts

an increasing number of regional Asian artists displaying their works, at prices often cheaper than in countries like Singapore, China and Vietnam. Whether hoping to peruse some emerging local protagonist, or purchase something a bit more commercial or traditional, one thing’s for certain – prices for art in Bangkok are more realistic and reasonable than overinflated, fashionable ar t centres in America, Europe and increasingly China. You’ll soon realise that the city doesn’t have a concentrated artistic enclave; rather, there are small pockets of galleries, auction houses and antiques shops randomly dispersed throughout the city. Commercial galleries are spread across town and a little route planning is advised before embarking on a day of gallery musing. On the following page is a selection of noteworthy galleries about town. Steven Pettifor is the editor of the Bangkok Art Map (BAM!), and author of Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is available as a consultant to art buyers; stevenpettifor@hotmail.com bangkok 101

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM! is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab a copy and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

exhibitions

Deep Desire

The Art of Marie Schem & Alan Berg Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd | | 02-649-8366 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit Set within the elegant Library surrounds of the Sukhumvit hotel, this duo exhibition has a curious pairing of French portrait painter Marie Schem with American Pop artist Alan Berg. Hung between the rows of tomes, Schem’s vibrant portraits stare at the viewer in uniform expression, with the background detailing indicating the mood of each work. Berg’s playful silkscreen prints interlace readily identifiable Pop references as he looks toward the cult of celebrity. Until mid Jan

DOB Hualamphong Resident One Property Co, Ltd, DOB Building 2F, 318 Rama IV Rd | 085482-3566 | 10am-7pm I MRT Hualamphong Continuing to source talented young artists straight from art school, Ardel gives its latest exposure is to Pachcharapong Meesilp, a recent graduate from Silpakorn University. His slick realistic self-portraits are slathered in an oozing layer of syrupy substance that could allude to sexual pleasure but is also an analogy to greed, desire, excess, and by implication to ultimate suffering. Until Jan 15

Camp Taylor Serindia OP Garden, Unit 3101, 3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36 | 02-238-6410 | Tue-Sun 11am-8pm | serindiagallery@ gmail.com Departing from their regular focus toward Himalayan art and culture, Serindia’s latest exhibition takes viewers back to the free spirited days of the late Sixties and Seventies with a photographic exhibition capturing life in the Hawaii hippy commune of Camp Taylor. Established by Elizabeth Taylor’s brother, Howard, the camp’s eight year existence gained notoriety for its drug friendly alternate lifestyle, which drew photographer John Wehrheim to document the back-tonature life there. Until Jan 16 bangkok 101

Isarn Boy Soi 4 Whitespace Gallery Lido Bldg 2F, 260 Siam Square 3 | 02-252-2900 | Tue-Fri 1pm-7pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-8pm or by appointment | www. whitespaceasia.com | BTS Siam Young artist Maitree Siriboon’s new body of studiobased photographs examines the relationship between Bangkok’s migrant Isaan workforce and the foreigners who intersect and influence their lives. Collaborating with British photographer Tim Brightmore, the mise en scène is a rich backdrop of red drapery within which a vulnerable naked Maitree wears angel-wings posing with similarly exposed western males. Attempting a lighting mood to accentuate chiaroscuro, the photos have a definite parallel to the enigmatic Caravaggio’s (1571-1610) atmospheric baroque compositions. Until Jan 24 ar ts

hot by Bangkok-based photographer Marc Schultz, the Urban Lines project is a collection of photographs captured in Bangkok which exhibit elements of a developing Asian city in transition. These retrospective pictures portray details of a growing urban landscape in which industrialising interests struggle to modernise, resulting in a sacrifice of some of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s intrinsic beauty from its past. In the face of this evolution, these images portray vignettes of life from within the few original enclaves of the city that remain and provide a glimpse into the historical character of Bangkok as an evolving mecca. In capturing these images, every shot was taken hand-held using a fisheye lens and in only available light. The distorted angles created by the optics produce a unique perspective for the viewer, designed to add to the visual appeal of the imagery. An exhibition, Urban Lines, presenting different pictures from the series will hang at Face Bangkok Restaurant (29 Sukhumvit Road, Soi 38, 02-713-6048) from 19 January until 10 March. Find out more at www.urbanlines.asia

urban lines photography by

marc schultz

PhotoFeature

Marc Schultz

Bangkok-based photographer Marc Schultz has travelled extensively throughout Thailand, with cameras in hand, and spent more than a year capturing imagery for the Urban Lines project. When not documenting the traditional life of both rural and urban Thailand, Marc also does commercial photography work in the fields of journalism, advertising, product, corporate, food, hotel and architectural interior photography. His professional work can be seen online at www.marcschultz.com

PhotoFeature

Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com, www.bangkokconcerts.com

Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai|BTS Victory Monument | 02677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular new 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, bear witness to hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www. patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are world-class.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

A live puppet show might sound like it’s aimed at kids, but this one is intriguing for all. The one-hour show follows the story of the Ramakien. The large puppets are incredibly lifelike; the scenes are colourful and fun to watch – so even adults enjoy the show. Arrive early to observe the production of traditional masks.

โรงละครนาฏยศาลา หุน่ ละครเล็ก (โจหลุยส์) สวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.35), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.30), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.85).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง ar ts

bangkok 101

TCDC (Thailand Creative & Design Centre) Quick Bites: Design for Better Eating

cultural centres

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres.These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on. BACC (map C3)

Kiosk

939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th The eleven-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls and looks out towards the city’s elevated skytrain. The Guggenheim meets a mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre plans to nurture a scope of creative fields including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting 3,000sqm for hosting art. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly good at opening your mind and eyes to curious international design concepts; be it Vivienne Westwood’s fearlessly non-conformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24

WHERE 6F,The Emporium Shopping Complex, Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS Phrom Phong, 02-6648448, www.tcdc.co.th OPEN 10:30am-9pm closed Mon bangkok 101

Alliance Française (map C4)

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

Japan Foundation (map D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ar ts

Arts

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, stateof-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.57), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180. The best place to check screening times is on Please the daily-updated stand while the www.movieseer.com. king's anthem is

Thai Cinema

played in respect to Thailand’s beloved monarch.

Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

POPCORN PARADISO

If you don’t fancy the local cineplex or your frontroom there’s another option that falls comfortably between the two. Monday is Popcorn Paradiso night at Bed Supperclub (p.84), where creative chef Cameron Stuart serves a choice of two appetizers, three mains, and two desserts for you to chow on while you watch a classic or cult flick (B1,450++). And, of course, you lie on fluffy white divan beds to eat: the perfect position for watching a movie. Steven Spielberg’s 1975 shark saga, Jaws, will screen on Jan 4, followed on Jan 11 by 1949’s On the Town, one of the freshest, most exhilarating musical comedies churned out by the old MGM studios. Next, on Jan 18, enjoy the third (and technicolourful) film adaptation of L. Frank Baum’s 1900 children’s fantasy, The Wizard of Oz. Last up, on Jan 25, is Grease. For those of you who’ve been living under a rock for the past 30 years, this 1978 musical blockbuster tells of the tumultuous love affair between 1950s teens Danny (John Travolta) and Australian transfer student Sandy (Olivia NewtonJohn). Films start at 6:45pm. 02-651-3537, www.bedsupperclub.com 58

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APEX Lido, Siam and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02251-2861, Siam 02-251-3580 โรงภาพยนต์ลโิ ด สยาม และสกาลา

สยามสแควร์ ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Grand (Gold Class) Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-812-9999 สยามดิสคัฟเวอร์รเ่ี ซ็นเตอร์

ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Metropolis (Gold Class) Big-C Ratchadamri (opp. Central World Plaza), Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chitlom | 02-812-9999 บิก ๊ ซี ราชดำริ ตรงข้ามเซ็นทรัล

เวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-9333 เอ็มโพเรียม สุขม ุ วิท 24 SF WORLD CINEMA 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-268-8888 เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ SF World,CentralWorld

bangkok 101

reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used. The Angel of Bang Kwan Prison Susan Aldous with Nicola Pierce | Maverick house | 256pp Everyone has a story to tell, but Susan Aldous’ extraordinary journey along the byways of the road to hell takes some beating. This is a autobiography of a reformed drugaddled Australian hippy, who saw the light and became a missionary roving Southeast Asia aiding those less fortunate. But despite the book’s title – the author’s slightly embarrassed concession to her publisher’s request – Aldous herself is at pains to emphasis her decidedly non-saintly status, with candid anecdotes illustrating her colorful, chequered past. At the outset of this remarkable tale, she humbly insist: “Please forget my name; it’s not important.” Ironically, Aldous’ name must be indelibly embroidered on the hearts and minds of a multitude of grateful beneficiaries she’s helped over the years.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong or CD Warehouse outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English subtitles and DVD region compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

Through Woven Heritage:The Textiles of Thailand Siam Society | 100pp | B995 (available from Siam Society, p.24) Produced to complement an exhibition at Bangkok’s Siam Society, the first third of this new reference book unravels the culture and processes underpinning Thai textiles. In it, we learn about the origins of sericulture as well as basic silk weaving processes like plain weave, ikat, khit, chok and luang. The distinct textiles unique to distinct ethnic groups scattered throughout the country are also discussed, as are contemporary Thai textiles. While this is all interesting stuff, only 36 pages of text is a little bit featherlight considering the hefty B995 price tag.The remainder of the book is also little more than a puffed up Christie’s auction catalogue; pictures of rare southern sarongs, men’s scarfs and 180 year old sin teen choks (lady’s tube skirts). As stunning as these are, this is clearly one for serious thread collectors and Thai culture completists only.

Museum of Siam Souvenir Guide Institute of Discovery and Creative Learning | 200pp | B1,020 This funky, chunky tome exploring the quintessence of Thai-ness makes a cool (if expensive) companion piece to Bangkok’s Museum of Siam. Although it lacks the touch screens and digital games of this multimedia-driven learning centre, its no less a sensory feast: all pop-arty page designs, eye-popping graphic collages, cool little pull-outs, and pithy little paragraphs designed up to open up your mind. Like the museum, it also traverses the full spectrum of Thai history, from prehistoric Suvarnabhumi right through to Thailand today, and touches on big themes like religious animism, multi-racial Ayuthaya and the Yankification of 1960s Bangkok. Hip and frothy, this bleeding-edge history book is about as 'down with the kids' as they come. Snag a copy from the Museum of Siam’s bookshop.

Dorm (Dek Hor) Songyos Sukmakanan | 2005 | $22.95 from www.tartanvideousa.com (this is the only version with English subtitles) Think Siamese Sixth Sense. The much-anticipated sophomore effort from one of the directors of puppy-love popular Fan Chan, Dorm gives growing up a ghostly spin. Initially furious at his family for packing him off to boarding school,Ton forgets his rage when he has to contend with a pack of bullies and…something more sinister. Directors build an admirably thick, slow-paced sense of dread, and lensing makes use of both hypersaturation and sepia tones to good dramatic effect. Fan Chan fans shouldn’t be disappointed – for all the chills, Dorm performs a delicate exploration of family relationships and of budding friendships between children, fraught as they are with both connection and cruelty. Although the big reveal may be telegraphed a bit too far in advance, Dorm’s attempt to fuse a finely drawn childhood drama with suspense makes it a sleeper hit. ar ts

Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok

Pathumwan Princess

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby. The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community.

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer.You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms! Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.77 ). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anythingonce daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

$ under B400 $$ B400 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000 a service charge (typically

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 60

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

meal deals

Korean Dumplings, Pathumwan Princess Hotel

Barbeque Buffet, Sheraton Grande Sukumvit Feast on fresh barbequed lobster, prawn, salmon steaks, imported Angus beef, tenderloin steaks and more while enjoying The Sala’s tropical garden ambiance. It takes places every evening and the price tag of B990++ includes Indian cuisine, vegetarian dishes, desserts, fruit and ice cream. 02-649-8365

Great balls of Korean style dough are the flavour of the month at Kayageum Korean Restaurant. There’ll be hae mool mandu (mixed seafood dumplings) and ho bak mandu (pumpkin dumplings) alongside much more. The lunch and dinner buffet costs B766 nett Mon-Thurs, B848 nett FriSun (includes seafood). 02216-3700

Champagne and Seafood Brunch, Espresso

Sunday Brunch, Bistro M From 10 Jan this breezy neighbourhood café, latched onto Sukhumvit Soi 24’s new Marriott, will be the Sunday brunch scene’s new kid. Expect delectable international, Asian and local favourites served hot and fresh at your table. Special introductory prices: B799++ without alcohol, B1,099++ with alcohol (includes glass of sparkling wine and two of white or red). 11am-3pm, 02-302-5555 !

The Intercontinental Hotel is offering guests 12 tasty new reasons to Sunday brunch there, including Japanese caviar, Alaskan crab, Maine lobster, Wagyu beef and more. It costs B1,390++ for adults, B695++ for the kids. A boozy kind of bruncher? An extra B990++ here buys you free flow Champagne, wine, beer and cocktails. 02656-0444

River Dining Cruises

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished Manohra antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental). Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last two to three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. ■ CHAO PHRAYA CRUISE 02-541-5599 | www.chaophrayacruise.com ■ GRAND PEARL CRUISE 02-861-0255 | www.grandpearlcruise.com ■ HORIZON CRUISE The Shangri-La | 02-266-8165-6 | www.shangri-la.com ■ LOY NAVA 02-437-4932 | www.loynava.com ■ MAEYANANG The Oriental Hotel | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com ■ MANOHRA CRUISES 02-477-0770 | www.manohracruises.com ■ WAN FAH 02-222-8679 | www.wanfah.com ■ YOK YOR 02-863-0565 | www.yokyor.co.th bangkok 101

food & drinks

Grand Pearl

Food&Drinks

thai cuisine

Did you know?

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desser ts social affair in or savoury mousses Thailand. are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared. 62

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

Mu Sa-Te (Pork/Chicken Skewers)

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom kha gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam nua.......spicy beef salad Gai yang..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng phet pet yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng khiao wan gai.....green curry chicken Phad kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sacred basil Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao.......................coconut juice Nam krajeab .............rosella flower juice Nam matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam tao hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha yen............................Thai iced tea with condensed milk bangkok 101

ban

101

thai sweets Kanom Thai

‘Polamai’: Thai Fruits

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

Phutsa (jujube)

Widely cultivated all over Asia for thousands of years the jujube, or phutsa, fruit is a small, oval-shaped drupe that is usually about 1.53cm long. In recent years however, a “giant Thai jujube” variety has been cultivated, with the fruit growing up to the size of an apple. Incidentally the crispy and crunchy flesh of the phutsa tastes quite similar to an apple, and is also available in green and red. As it matures and ripens the skin begins to take on a golden hue. It is often eaten fresh, with a salt-sugar dip, baked, or candied and preserved. It is widely used in traditional medicine as the fruit is believed to help alleviate stress. In the Himalayan regions, the jujube is thought to make teenagers fall in love, so you’ll find many young men with jujube flowers in hand to help enhance their personal pheromone count.

The word Kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a Kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This! Bua Loi Kai Waan A Thai classic, “Bua Loi”, translated as “floating lotus” is a dessert, which features tiny taro balls served “floating” in either ginger syrup (Bua Loi Nam King) or coconut milk. For Bua Loi Kai Waan, an egg is poached in sweet coconut milk and added to the mix. It might sound a bit strange but don’t judge it till you’ve tried it! Naj Restaurant

Try also:

Coconut (Ma-Praow), Guava (Farang), Banana (Kluay), Papaya (Malakor), Mangosteen (Mong-Koot), Durian (Tu-Rian), Mango (Ma Muang), Rambutan (Ngoh), Lychee (Lyn-Chee) bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

treet food is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. So much so that if you took away the city’s rot khen (mobile vendor carts) it would begin to taste rather bland. Some open for lunch only; others open all night. Though common to every street, knowing which carts sell what, when and where is a skill many Bangkokians pride themselves on. Short on time? Then make for one of the following hotspots, where clusters of vendors sell good feeds for pocket-change.

ealikte

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

Portuguese Cupcakes

Recently I crossed to the older Thonburi side of Bangkok’s river and enjoyed a walk around an old Catholic church known as Wat Kudeechine or Santa Cruz Church. A harmonious blend of neo-classic and renaissance styles, it was built by a small resident Portuguese community more than 200 years ago. I discovered during this impromptu daytrip that pretty churches isn’t all they left behind however – they also left a food heritage which survives to this day, namely a Portuguese dessert known as Kanom Farang Kudeejeen. One family in the area has been baking these little cupcakes for five generations now.The recipe is simple: just flower, sugar and eggs well mixed together. But the charm is in the way it’s baked.To achieve the same texture – crispy on the outside, soft on the inside – you’d have to find an oven as ancient as the one they use here. For me, it’s not so much the cakes that are special as the nostalgia and story that surrounds them. That said, they don’t half taste good when eaten fresh out of the oven, when they’re still warm and the smell of fresh baked cakes fills the air. I recommend you go and walk around this area, then reward yourself with some Kanom Farang Kudeejeen afterwards. And don’t forget to ask for a look at the oven. Address: Take the Chao Praya Express Boat to Pier Rachinee (one stop before Memorial Bridge if you travel from the Grand Palace). Get off then get a cross-river ferry to the opposite pier. Take your time to explore this area then look for the Kudeejeen Soi 7 sign. Or call the cake shop house on 089-662-5299. 64

food & drinks

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to revellers. Sample the delicate, hand-made egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am. Corner of Silom/Convent Road The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues. Pratunam Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark.There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door. Soi Rambutri (near Khao San Road) Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the stall in front of Swenson’s. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls. bangkok 101

Maya (map B4) Millennium Hilton Bangkok Hotel, 123 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | shows start 7pm sharp | B1,250++ (15-course set menu) At the Millennium Hilton’s Maya, a barlike setting lit by clusters of rich red lightbulbs and overlooking the river, all the restaurant’s a stage. Costumed servers present a 15 course set menu and luscious Thai cocktails with balletic flourishes while guests sit back on chairs and plush divans. Meanwhile, Thai folk and Café Del Mar-like chillout music soundtracks performance art by dancers from Bangkok’s Patravadi Theatre. Although this artifice initially grates a little – “is this really happening?” say the incredulous looks between guests – you soon warm to Maya’s choreographed feast for the senses, especially as the food – tapas-style renditions of Thai classics – is arranged with panache and very very tasty. A gong announces each dish’s arrival. Succulent prawn crackers arrive on skewers arranged like incense sticks; a fluffy catfish and spicy green mango salad comes in a cocktail glass; and so on. Later, a lemon sherbet gives your stomach a short palatecleansing interval, before the second act commences. With a “showtime” nearing three hours and no a la carte menu, Maya won’t be for everyone: the loud raconteur, the young family, those wanting a quick feed should all look elsewhere. For those open to having their dainty pad thai served as if a prop on an avant-garde theatre stage, though, Maya makes for a memorable night out. . รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Maya

restaurants

JUST ONE (map C4) 58 Soi Ngam Duplee (Sathorn Soi 1), Rama IV Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Lumpini | 02-679-8033 | 7am-11pm | $ Intrepid eater s in Thailand are frequently face with the challenging choice between décor and dining – either a trophy restaurant with stunning looks but mediocre food, or a repast fit for the gods served up in a decidedly less-than-divine space. Luckily, Just One isn’t looking to just coast on its atmosphere. The perfect romantic restaurant for a special visitor, Just One is set in what looks like an enchanted garden – a giant, gnarled tree towering over outdoor tables, and an airy, almost greenhouse-like indoor space. Food is polite Thai – fresh, with a low chilli factor for tender tongues. With its sensitive spicing, wide-ranging menu, and dreamy look, Just One might be too timid for food crusaders, but is perfect for out-of-towners who may have touchy palates, or those who seek cuisine that suits a serene atmosphere.

จัสวัน ซ.งามดูพลี

Lan Na Thai

bangkok 101

food & drinks

LAN NA THAI (map D4) Face | 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 02-7136048 | www.facebars.com | BTS Phrom Phong | 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pmmidnight | $$$ This proudly elegant restaurant/bar/ spa venue has taken the Thai wooden house of yesteryear as its inspiration and muted, sensual opulence as its mantra. Everywhere you look there is a towering Buddha statute gazing back at you, or a lustrous silk wall hanging acting to be fondled.Teak fetishists should brace themselves.At Lan NaThai delicacies from the Northern provinces are sprinkled throughout the menu like piquant confetti while assorted Thai standards bring substance to the party. Not everything on the menu is a screaming success but the Chiang Mai sausage, colourfully laced with chilli and garlic, is exquisite while the steamed sea bass with lime juice and chilli is huge, fluffy and damn neat perfect.The soft shell crab, meanwhile, is juice, oily and lip-smackingly moreish and – if your credit has not been overly crunched, the mango cheesecake is what dreams are made of.Very naughty dreams.

ล้านนาไทย ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ.38

Food&Drinks

Exhibit Café

International Exhibit Café (map D4) 235/31 Sukhumvit 31 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-3636 | 11am - 2 pm, 5 pm – 10 pm | $ It’s all in the name – this fusion of gallery and café is tucked deep in a corner of Sukhumvit 31. A wall of windows and high ceilings frame a room filled with art, tasty food and potential for great conversation. The minimal décor and soft instrumental music keep your eyes on the art itself, which is rotated bimonthly with only two requirements: lighthearted and light enough to hang.

Extra Virgin Bistro (map E4) 63 Sukhumvit Soi 53 | BTS Thong lo | Tue-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri – Sun 2pm – 1am | 02-259-7898 | $-$$ Extra Virgin Bisto Located towards the end of Sukhumvit 53, this restaurant joins the soi’s expanding list of buzzing restaur ants. Extr a Virgin Bistro’s clientele leans heavily towards the chi-chi foo-foo, sexy and well-to-do Thai crowd, though the atmosphere at this conver ted American-style country home is very laid back and cosy, whether you’re dining on one of the sofas inside or You wouldn’t want any salty tears lounging on the patio out front. The ruining your pasta, right? Which brings menu is decked out with contemporary us to the art that’s edible. The menu is European and Thai dishes, like salmonmainly Thai with a little kick of Italian, wrapped rocket with spicy Thai dressing and entirely delicious. We started and spaghetti with Nor thern style off with a crowd pleaser, “magic sausage. Though fusion might as well sticks”. These salmon and shrimp be a four letter word these days, the spring rolls definitely did the trick and interracial marriage of flavour works, the owner’s pick of shrimp pasta in a though the pure-bred dishes like the cream sauced topped off with shrimp grilled pork with sweetened sticky rice roe sealed the deal. This perfect blend are just as superb. The Thai influence of art and food will leave your tummy doesn’t disappear at dessert either, with full, and possibly a new piece hanging indulgent treats like cha-yen pudding, and baby coconut milk cake. in your living room.

เอ็กซิบิทคาเฟ่ สุขุมวิท 31

food & drinks

เอ็กซ์ตร้า เวอร์จนิ บิสโทร สุขุมวิท ซ.53

bangkok 101

Blue Velvet

THE DECK BY THE RIVER (map A3) Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 02-221-9158 | Mon-Thu 8am-10pm, Fri-Sun 8am-11pm | www.arunresidence.com/dining.htm | $$ The jaw-dropping view at The Deck steals the show – the great brown swath of the Chao Phraya, the Khmerinflected prangs of Wat Arun… just try to look away. Make sure to reserve in advance to guarantee a coveted second-floor outdoor seat at this elegant little restaurant, attached to boutique hotel Arun Residence. The ambitious menu embraces French, touches of other Continental cuisines, traditional and nouveau Thai – good for palates foreign and Thai alike. Grilled mushrooms have a meaty texture and savor. Prepared with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, the simple ingredients sing. A trickier dish, saffron risotto with grilled prawns, is wonderfully done. The rich, welltextured morsels offset the perfectly gr illed seafood. Their chocolate fondant guarantees a sweet end to the end, turning the gooey-center chocolate cliché into lush luxury.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช ท่าเตียน

bangkok 101

Blue Velvet (map E4) 105/2 Thonglor soi 5 | BTS Thongl Lor | 02-392-7869-70 | 6pm-1am | $$ As soon as you step onto Blue Velvet’s drawbridge, you know you’re not in Bangkok anymore. Inside this new castle restaurant, dim lighting and the smooth sound of Nina Simone invite you to get comfy on big blue velvet couches. With three other eateries under her belt, co-owner Rika Dila certainly knows how to pull off food and design, mixing a distinct medieval atmosphere with a contemporary twist. Wander through the twofloors equipped with back stairs, brick archways and secret rooms and

food & drinks

then settle down to eat. Half created by French Embassy Chef Charlie, the menu boasts a mouthwatering selection of meat and seafood. We started with a crowd favorite, fried calamari, and worked our way into a tuna and octopus salad. We then topped it off with the highly recommended main course, Dory Parcel. All the while we were sipping on one of their four signature cocktails, passion fruit and Grey Goose, which even makes drinking feel healthy. Be prepared to spend a pretty penny, but know that like all fairy tales it will have a happy ending.

บลูเวลเว็ท ทองหล่อ ซ.5

Food&Drinks

chic bangkok Cheryl Tseng

Blue Elephant

This distinguished multilevel Thai venue with a cooking school is situated in a century-old colonial building that has survived through history. Founded in Belgium some twenty years ago and subsequently exported to other European and Middle East countries, Blue Elephant has now made its way home. The beautiful interior is resplendent in magnificent teak wood paneling and carvings, accentuated with lovely bouquets of orchids. Fine antiques, classic lamps, weathered panels and rattan BEST FOR Thai furniture all add to the old world WHERE Thai Chine Building allure. Polite waiters bring a feast of 233 South Sathon Rd (map B4), tasty and innovative Thai dishes with 02-673-9353~4 BTS Surasak imported ingredients. Think foie gras OPEN daily 11:30am- 2:30pm, with zesty tamarind sauce; scallops 6:30-10:30pm PRICE $$$ and mangosteen salad in sour spicy lemongrass sauce; seared mediumrare tuna served in ginger-tinged dressing; delicious marinated buffalo fillet served with peanut sauce. The must-try exotic dessert is durian cheesecake. The neon blue bar lights up at night and seduces diners with colorful drinks such as Blue Mai Thai, infused with a mixture of tropical fruit juices. Chic Restaurants & Bars Bangkok is a compact food and style lover’s bible showcasing Bangkok’s most fabulous venues for dining and drinking. Global gourmand Cheryl Tseng leads you to the capital’s finest food, and its most striking décor. Each month we take a sneak peek inside, and share a taste here. A definite must-have for travelling foodies, get yourself a copy of the new 3rd edition at local book shops, or visit www.chicasia.com.

food & drinks

bangkok 101

Italian CALDERAZZO (map C3) 59, 59/6 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd | BTS Chid Lom | 02-252-8108-9 | www.calderazzobangkok.com |11:30am-2pm, 6pm-10:30pm | $$$ An airy space, the clean mustardy yellow walls, looming windows, Calderazzo’s expansive, no-fuss modern look focuses you in on the food – which is well wor th the attention. This Langsuan favourite features Italian with bold flavours, in por tions as big as the taste. Pastas are homemade, with that perfect elastic resistance-and-give, and dressed with just the right amount of beautifully melded sauce. Salad greens are snappingly fresh, fish preparations robust and tasting of the sea. The B450++-baht lunchtime prix fixe is good for a business lunch or for a leisurely nosh between friends. Solid wine list, and as for coffee and dessert – Calderazzo makes a bracing cup, all the better for complementing the sweetness of its hearty desserts.

คาลเดเรสโซ ซ.หลังสวน เพลินจิต

Calderazzo

La Bottega Di Luca

LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA (map E4) Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-204-1731 | la.bottega.di.luca@gmail.com | Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm, deli hours Tue-Sun 10am-8pm | $$ When a restaurant is born of a deli, one thing you can count on is that the goods are fresh. And here, in this trendy, architecturally unique lifestyle complex at the corner of Sukhumvit 49/1, the Italian deli downstairs is the direct supply link for the restaurant above.The cosy dining space with wooden floors has nine tables looking out of glass walls to an outdoor terrace complete with lush leather sofas. The menu is simple, a no-frills selection featuring a healthy sampling of homemade pastas, fresh-baked breads, pastries and more. Stand-outs include grilled scamorza

(smoked mozzarella cheese) wrapped in speck ham and topped with sautéed mushrooms. The Risotto di Luca, is the chef ’s own take on what Italians do best with rice, in this case with a delicate crust of aged black truffle cheese and a lightly-spiced pancetta. Save room for the chocolate mouse with grappa, a dessert and digestive in the same tender bite. On weekdays housewives from the nearby Japanese enclave near Thong Lo flock for the smartly-priced lunch sets (B390++). The wine cellar is home to over 250, mostly Italian, labels. It’s a memorable gastro night out, and if you’re planning on entertaining at home, it’s all available for take out in the deli (including the wine); well, everything except the charming,Torinoborn proprietor, Chef Luca.

อาคารเทอเรซ 49 หัวมุมสุขุมวิท 49/1

No Reservation ? Do It …!

Always something new happening at LA BOTTEGA

RSVP La Bottega’s 1 Anniversary WINTER TERRACE GRAND OPENING, White TRUFFLE FROM ALBA, CIGAR LOUNGE AND JAZZ NIGHTS Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49, BTS Thong Lo, Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5.30pm-11pm deli hours Tue-Sun 10am-8pm email: la.bottega.di.luca@gmail.com Tel: 02-204-1730-1

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Neighbourhood Nosh:Thanon pan Soi 18

Each month we steak out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the skinny in an easily digestible, bite-size format.

Soi 26

Rd.

Soi 1

So i 1 1

Silom

5 Pramo

a on P

Soi 19

Than

2 3 4

l Rd. Sri Wieng

6 7

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Rd. thorn

Wat Khaek

Pan Road is famous for its technicoloured Maha Uma Devi Indian temple, or Wat Khaek, where devotees come to beseech Hindu Gods to send profits, a new job or new lover their way. However, the area also boasts an interesting muddle of restaurants, some Thai, some Indian, some Persian, some tatty, some classy. Cheap hole-in-the-wall Khrua Aroi Aroi (1), which means ‘delicious kitchen’, gets Thanon Pan off to a delectable start. Ask for the kanom jeen and watch in awe as a lady ladles spoonfuls of authentic Thai curry over fermented rice noodles for you.

Free

a world of well-rendered Iranian fare: kebabs, lamb curries, salads, minced lamb bbq and the like. Meanwhile, further down on the same side, Thai stalwart Taling Pling (6) attracts a mixed Thai/westerner crowd – and has been for years. Look for the townhouse flanked by a big tree. The chunky pictorial menu screams touristy, but the food mostly isn’t.Try the atypical beef green curry with chunks of tender beef and whole birds eye chillies. Or the meang taling pling, a starter comprised of chicken paste, garlic, peanuts, chilli and sour taling pling fruit condiments that you wrap in betel leafs and pop in your mouth. Last up, Opus (7) is a slick wine bar housed in an uncluttered townhouse decorated in whites and browns and chicly lit. Popular with well-to-do expats, the menu comprises hot and cold antipasti, pastas, such as penne dello chef, as well as impressive mains like steamed seabass in white wine sauce. But it’s mostly about the wines, all 300 or so bottles of them. It’s on a little sidestreet just off Thanon Pan.

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Taling Pling

Opus

For the latest scoop on Bangkok’s art scene, pick up a free copy of BAM! citywide at art galleries, cultural centres or from your hotel concierge.

EVERY MONTH

Bangkok Ar t

If these are finished – and by early afternoon they often are – try the beguilingly tasty nam prik pla too (deep fried mackerel with shrimp chilli paste and steamed vegetables). Sit up front for views of the temple and the odd waft of incense smoke. Walking deeper in, ducking the shop awnings hung with garlands of yellow marigolds as you go, reveals several strictly meat-free restaurants. Tiny Chennai Kitchen (2) specialises in Southern Indian vegetarian and dishes out some pretty mean dosai. Use these crispy Indian crepes to scoop up their potato and lentil-based dips. A few doors down, Yota (3) sells Thai vegan (look for the yellow flags); and Mashoor’s (4) boasts Burmese-Indian tinged curries and thalis, as well as a glass display counter out front loaded with authentic Indian sweets. Back in the world of the gleefully carnivorous, Persia Restaurant (5) belies its bare, somewhat austere interior with

From the publishers of food & drinks

www.bangkokartmap.com bangkok 101

Food courts

Much as we love cheap and tasty street food, non-wobbly tables and a little air-conditioning can go a long way. That’s why the Thai god of grub invented food courts! MBK: The Food Center (6F, 10am9pm) is cheap, chaotic and jampacked with yummy Thai grub. Most dishes are around the B40 mark. Just below the Food Centre is the Fifth Food Avenue (5F, 10am-9:30pm), a more upmarket collection of independent eateries (figure B150 for a dish) with good variety of international food, including Greek, seafood and Mexican options. Siam Centre: If you have a thing for molded plastic seats and vivid orange colour schemes, then baby, you’ve just hit the motherlode. Migraine-inducing décor aside, Food for Fun (4F, 9am-9pm) is a cheap and cheerful spot where B40-50 gets you a huge pile of reasonable Thai grub and the chance to tut at spiky-haired teenagers. Paragon: You can stare at a table-top aquarium while you munch your noodles; but you’re paying about B70 for those noodles. And they ain’t all that. The Food Court (B1, 10am10pm) dining hall gets packed too, making seats hard to come by and the atmosphere far from relaxing. CentralWorld: Flavour (7F, 10am-10pm) at the back of the Food Hall supermarket is really comfortable and has some cracking options at good prices. Figure on B50 a dish. Also in CentralWorld, on the seventh floor of Zen department store, is Food Loft (10am-10pm). Easily the most successful attempt at a mid-range food court, this plush, glass-walled offers up top-notch international fare. Try the Vietnamese noodle salad at B110. There’s another branch of Food Loft at Central Chitlom. Emporium: Probably the nicest food court on the mall-beat is the Food Court (5F, 10am-9:45) at Emporium. Clean, decked out like a library and with pleasant views over Benjasiri Park, the Food Court has lots of good Thai/ Chinese standards priced at B50-60. bangkok 101

Isaan Eats

Isaan food – Northeast Thailand’s unadulterated cuisine – is everywhere. Bangkok’s streets teem with rot khen (vendor carts) and no-frills restaurants serving comfort foods to the city’s huge Isaan migrant population: dishes like laab (ground-meat salad), gai yang (grilled chicken) and som tum (green papaya salad). Not that they’re the only fans. Though many draw the line at nibbling insects, every strata of Bangkok society – from homesick taxi drivers through to their Prada-clad passengers – has its enthusiasts. Indeed, many rank this sweat-raising blend of Lao and Thai cooking (which serves sticky rice with fresh vegetables, chillis, herbs and whatever creature’s within grasp) as just about the best Thai culinary creation going. Almost every sidewalk has a lip-smacking Isaan kitchen (here gastro-gems spring from the humblest setups). But a meal at one of the following will have you vowing that your days of tart-sweet Thai food are over. n Café de Laos 19 Silom Soi 19 | 02-635-2338 | 11am-2pm & 5-10pm | $$ Who said you have to forgo ambience? At Café de Laos you get posh looks and rustic Issan nosh. You’ll pay more than you would streetside, though. n Isaan Rot Det 3/5-6 Soi Rang Nam | 02-246-4579 | BTSVictory Monument | $ The best northeastern fare on Rang Nam (a soi renowned for it) is served at this no-frills shophouse. Explosive som tum, crisp vegetables and lots of spice-flushed local faces. n Kumpoon 7F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Road | BTS Chidlom | 02646-1044 | $ Zingy Isaan delights meet air-conditioned mall. Perfect for when a sweaty you won’t do. n Soi Polo Fried Chicken 137/1-2 Soi Polo,Withayu Rd | 02-655-8489 | $ Golden-brown, succulent and blanketed in crispy-garlic, its gai tord (fried chicken) is legendary. Very busy at lunchtimes. n Vientiane Kitchen 8 Naphasap Yak 1, Sukhumvit Soi 36 | 02-258-6171 | BTS Thonglor | $$ Sat beneath traditional thatched-roofs, guests dine on classics as well as daredevil dishes like boiled ants’ eggs spicy salad. Includes lively Laotian music. food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Triple O's

Japanese Kushi-Tei of Tokyo (mapE4) Penny’s Balcony GF,Thong Lor Soi 16(opposite J-Avenue) | BTS Thong Lor | 02-392-3518 | www.kushi-tei.com | 6-11pm | $ Cameron Diaz’s titular character in the 1997 comedy, There’s Something About Mary, once said: “I don’t think they have enough meats on sticks.” She’s obviously never been to Asia. Japan, for example, has an entire subgenre of food called kushiyaki (“kushi” means sticks), which only involves meats on sticks. With a few branches already up and grilling in Europe, this is the restaurant’s first Southeast Asian branch. The menu consists of your basic, like chicken, to your notso- basic, like maguro with wasabi mayonnaise and lobster, while some of the scarier staples like chicken hearts/livers/gizzards/cartilage, which are quite common in restaurants of this kind, are non-existant. Perhaps the only complaint about the food are the items that include bacon, where the chef seems to have added an extra sprinkling of salt that will instantly send your sodium levels soaring. Though, perhaps it’s just their clever way of getting you to quench yourself with another bottle of their refreshing umeshu plum wine.

เพนนีส์ บัลโคนี ทองหล่อ ซ.16 (ตรงข้ามเจ อเวนิว)

Kushi-Tei of Tokyo

AMERICAN

French

TRIPLE O’S (map C3) 7th Central World, Rama I Rd. | BTS Siam / Chid Lom | 02-613-1640 | www.tripleo.com.hk |10am – 10pm | $ You didn’t come to Bangkok for burgers right? That said, after your zillionth pad thai here you can bet you’ll be lusting after one. A good place to score your burger and fries fix is Triple O’s, even if its location on the seventh floor of CentralWorld means you have to work for it. This Canadian burger brand dating back to 1928 prides itself on its pedigree patties – 100% beef, no preservatives etc – and toasted buns. Best sellers include the BC Burger, which comes doused in their Triple O sauce, a blend of mayo, relish and they only know what else. If there’s a complaint it’s with how the sauce makes the bacon, lettuce and other toppings slip and slide, but we like the taste and the fact that the gherkin (surely the most divisive foodstuff on the planet) comes laid on top of the bun for easy disposal.Their vanilla milkshakes ain't half bad either. Rich, thick and yummy, they provide the perfect counterpoint to the hot saltiness of the burgers and might just be the best in town.

INDIGO (map C4) 6 Convent Rd, Silom | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-235-3268 | noon midnight | $$$ This perfect little piece of France has its special place in a lot Bangkokians’ hear ts, and not all of them native French speakers. Indigo has managed to stay a certain insider tip, but that’s also thanks to it hiding itself in a mini-Soi off Convent (from Silom, walk down Convent; the lane is about 80m on the right).The only problem you face here is deciding whether to sit inside the lovingly restored, intimate Thai house or in the highly romantic courtyard. Hardcore Francophiles join the guys sitting at the bar. Regulars love the wide selection of wines by glass, the friendly service and the culinary concoctions. The surprisingly large menu offers very traditional French dishes (a few are globally inflected, but the chef keeps them down-to-earth) – all of them yummy, most of them impeccable, and very reasonably priced. Book ahead – Indigo is often full.

อินดิโก ซ.คอนแวนต์ ถ.สีลม

เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์ สี่แยกราชประสงค์ food & drinks

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restaurant

SPANISH ON 4

When Tapas Café arrived on Sukhumvit Soi 11 back in 2006 its plates of authentic Spanish fare and wall art were soon being lapped up by night owls, washed down by glasses of their very slurpable sangria. Three years later and those till receipts just keep on rising. Employing the same convivial formula in an even more enviable location, the new sister WHERE 78-80 Silom Soi 4 branch on party strip Silom Soi 4 – (map C4) BTS Sala Deang, called ‘Spanish on 4’ to avoid clashing MRT Silom, 02-632-9955 with disco neighbour Tapas (p.) – is OPEN Mon-Fri 11am - 1am, already proving no less a success. In Sat-Sun 11am - 2am PRICE $$ it’s four-storey building, formerly a dinghy hip-hop club, Madrid native Chef Raul rustles up the not-too-salty dishes Tapas Café regulars love, only with his own unique touches. Must nibbles include the patatas bravas (fried potatoes) and deep-fried calamari – two flawless dishes that both star their garlic mayonnaise. There’s also paella; imported iberico; and, most interestingly, Raul’s selection of weekly specials, like the sauté mushrooms with a strong, addictive white wine and garlic smack. Sit inside the neat, orange-accented building for a more intimate dinner; out front to ogle the parade of mostly gay bar cruisers while you bask in nightlife noise and neon. This is a casual restaurant, ideal for the chatty afterwork nosh or prelude to a big Friday night; and the generous happy hours help: from 11am till 7pm and 11pm till close they offer buy 3 pay for 2 tapas, and buy 1 get 1 free jugs of Sangria.

สแปนิชออนโฟร์ สีลม ซ.4

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks Beirut

Vegetarian

Middle Eastern Beirut (map C3) B1, Ploenchit Centre, Sukhumvit Soi 2 | BTS Phloen Chit or Nana | 02-6567377 | 10am-10pm | $ Located near the enclave of tasty Middle Eastern restaurants on Sukhumvit 3/1, Beirut provides a bit more comfor t, quiet, and care in the kitchen than its tasty but shishasmoky brethren do. The mall atmosphere is not much to look at, but you’ll be too busy scarfing down lemon-fresh salads, creamy hummus and beautifully marinated chicken kebabs to even glance around. Beirut

does excellent set menus of its small plates – come with a gang of friends and fight over every forkful. Fried eggplant is simple and fantastic, served up without a trace of oil and bitterness, and Beirut’s cauliflower got us – confirmed haters of that pasty-white vegetable – to chase every last morsel. Pita is not up to this standard, but serviceable – more room in your stomach for the good stuff. Finish up with strong mint tea, perfume-y sweet custards and rice puddings. Friendly, unpretentious and perfect for that falafel fix.

เบรุท สขุมวิท ซอย 2

dim-sum featured

Siang Ping Loh

Literally rising up above the rest of the competition in Chinatown, the awardwinning Siang Ping Loh on the 8th floor of the Grand China Princess Hotel has garnered a loyal following over the years from the Chinese community. The menu features a few unique dishes, most notably a new spin on the traditional custard WHERE 8Fl, Grand China steamed buns. Using fresh milk Princess Hotel, 215 Yaowarat Rd as the main ingredient, a clear, (map B3) MRT Hualumphong then jelly-like dough encompasses taxi, 02-224-9977 OPEN 11am – the sweet egg custard. Though 2:30pm, 6pm – 10:30pm PRICE the steamed items are tasty, the All you can eat Dim Sum (Lunch highlights of your meal will only) B488++, B 575++ come from the pan. All the fried items are impeccably cooked, resulting in just the right amount of crunch without being excessively greasy. Try the tangy fruit salad spring rolls, and the irresistible fried dumping with prawn and chives.

รร. แกรนด์ไชน่าปริ๊นเซส ถ.เยาวราช

Anothai (map D3) 976/17 Soi Praram 9 Hospital, Huay Kwang | 02-641-5366 | Thu-Tue 10am-9:30pm | no credit cards | $ Ask any Bangkokian to suggest a good vegetarian restaurant, and he’ll invariably name this tiny place in the otherwise uninteresting northeastern part of town. Once you muster the courage to venture out that far you’ll be surprised to find Anotai’s handful of tables occupied by happy Thai customers and the odd foreigner in the know.They all feast on the innovative dishes created by the owner who grows her veggies on the family farm. The intense flavours of pan-Asian dishes make up for the unpretentious but warm interior. You must leave space for the delicious desserts, and have the friendly staff doggie-bag some of the many cookies on display. Once the bill arrives, you’ll know the advantage of dining in the burbs.

อโนทัย ซ.โรงพยาบาลพระราม 9 ห้วยขวาง

Indian Sri Ganesh (map D4) 392/23 Soi Sukhumvit 20/1, btw Soi 18&20 BTS Asok | 02-258-1425 | 10am-10pm | $ Although he was enchanted by the culinary magic dished out at home, Senthil Kumar had to learn how to cook on the sly. Growing up in a traditional South Indian family, he wasn’t supposed to lift a finger, much less a pot, in the kitchen. A stealthy kid-chef until he moved out for a job, Kumar has, not surprisingly, imbued Sri Ganesha with the quality of a warm, homey secret. This hidden-away storefront serves up delicious vegetarian cuisine to South Indians, expats, and a growing number of Thais. Appetizers like samosas and plump dumplings in lentil sambar are greaselessly fried but fat with flavor, giant dosas come out tangycrisp. Stand-alone veggie curries can be potato-pasty or a bit pallid, but on the whole Sri Ganesh hits the high mark – unpretentious, lovingly slowcooked food. This secret’s well worth passing on.

สีกาเนช สุขุมวิท 20/1

food & drinks

bangkok 101

runching is big in Bangkok. All five-star hotels and respectable cafés do them. Some are kid-friendly, others are strictly adult.You can get tipsy at some, while others focus on music. Curing a hangover? Need to eat al fresco? We offer you a sampling of Bangkok’s best.

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featured

brunch Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

It’s “Kind of Blue” with a buffet too. The Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit combines cool jazz with hot (and cold!) temptations, with an amazing and eclectic spread that includes antipasti, premium Italian cold cuts and fantastic pastas, tender tandoori dishes, a carved ice counter with fresh sushi and an open bar. It’s good that the selection is so vast, because the vibe will make you want to take brunch slow. While buffet brunches abound in this city, what makes this one particularly good is both the atmosphere, which is bright and lively, and the quality of the cuisine. The fresh meats cooked to order are particularly good. The salad bar stretches the imagination as much as the stomach. Not to mention the flow of premium wines, beer and cocktails. After WHERE Sheraton Grande multiple trips, you will still feel you Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd. didn’t quite try everything. It’s a (map D3) BTS Asok MRT brunch at which to relax as much as Sukhumvit, 02-649-8888 to indulge, where you can sip your OPEN Sunday 11:30am – Prosecco and channel New Orleans. 3pm PRICE B1,850++

รร. เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

High Teas

tea

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea

featured

Agalico

From the walls to the rattan furnishings – Agalico is a rhapsody in white. This little reverie lies just off of traffic-snarled Sukhumvit, but seems miles – and centuries – away. Owner M.L. Poomchai Chumbala has WHERE 20 Sukhumvit 51, kitted out the airy house02-662-5857 BTS Thong Lo turned-tea-salon with lavish OPEN Fri – Sun 10am – 6pm helpings of English charm, and price cash only; under he bakes Agalico’s scones and B200 per item apple crumble from scratch, too. Stroll around the space to find your perfect couch and cuppa – the wonderfully eclectic assortment of fine loose-leaf teas is displayed all around the house and includes several special house blends. Agalico also offers a daily array of pastries, cakes, and wedges of delicious quiche – all quite good, if served in rather precious portions, so don’t come in expecting to wreak terror on a tier of tea treats. (All for the best, though, as pigging out in such environs would be unseemly, no?) On cooler days, the beautifully landscaped garden – home to fountains, a gazebo perfect for a group tea party, romantic tables and benches tucked away for an al fresco tête-à-tête –are genteely fought over. The country manse feel draws hi-so Thai and Japanese ladies by the herd (along with the men who are their accessories du jour) but never feels crowded, thanks to multiple cozy nooks, high ceilings, and lush garden views. Reservations recommended.

อะกาลิโก สุขุมวิท 51

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

■ Sukhumvit Gazebo Sukhumvit Soi 1 | 02-655-2475-6 | BTS Phloen Chit Global tapas until the wee hours.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either. Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you. Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-3919634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02-238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half restaurant, half art gallery with innovative Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

bangkok 101

Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya. Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine ■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare. ■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you’re around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

late-night dining

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.96) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.64). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Sunrise Tacos

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier. Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Thai and International Food food & drinks

Bug and Bee

Food&Drinks

sweet treats

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

COFFEE ALLEY in the Garden

It takes courage for a coffee shop to open for business just a short stroll from Kuppa, which has long been the bench mark for cafés in Bangkok, but Coffee Alley has managed to tackle that challenge and gain a loyal following in the past couple of years. Whereas the former exudes an air of sophistication and has become an institution for the city’s elite, the latter counters with a friendlier atmosphere, catering to local residents and office workers. Using specially selected Arabica beans from Northern Thailand the aroma of WHERE Sukhumvit freshly ground coffee emanates throughout its interior, Soi 16 BTS Asoke, MRT where a small selection of baked goodies and cakes sit Sukhumvit, 02-258-8300 on display. The desserts, like the chocolate whipping OPEN 7am - 9pm cream cake, look homemade and offer a passable if PRICE $ not superlative dose of sweetness to your day. Perhaps the most popular item is the miniature brownie doughnuts, served with a melted chocolate dip, while they also have waffles, sandwiches, and an all-day breakfast if you are looking for something a little more filling. However, it’s the leafy garden on the side of the house that’s the real highlight of Coffee Alley, where you can kick back with an iced coffee on the wooden outdoor patio or even right on the grass.

คอฟฟี่อัลเล่ย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

Buffet Venues ■ TASTE Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | 6am – 11pm | Breakfast B650++, Lunch 790++, Dinner B1,100++ ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | noon-2.30pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ Panorama Restauarant Pan Pacific Bangkok | 02-632-9000 | 6:30am – 10:30am, 11:30am – 2:30pm | Breakfast 695 net, Lunch 690++ ■ No.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ Lord jim’s buffet Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ Orchid Café Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ Citi Bistro Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10pm | lunch B650net, dinner B1,300net

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

all you can eat

featured

PANORAMA

buffet

With its imported product, lavish looks and partitioned area overlooking the city, Panorama is one of the most refined restaurants to arrive in Bangkok recently. And while the place is buzziest in the evenings its lunchtime buffet, at B690++ one of the more expensive in town, is no less classy. The reason for the extra cost is clear: in addition to all-you-can-eat antipasti you get to choose a main from a rotating selection of six dashing dishes conceived by Head Chef Steve Van Remoortel. It’s an unusual step but a successful one, especially as they’re cooked WHERE Pan Pacific from scratch in the open kitchens. His flair Bangkok, Rama 4 Rd. BTS for gratifying ingredient combinations shines Sala Deang, MRT Silom, 02through on dishes like Greenland halibut on a 632-9000 OPEN 11:30am – delicate bed of finely chopped baby leeks; and 2:30pm PRICE B690++ grilled New Zealand lamb chops, a harmonious pairing of medium-rare meat with rosemary coulis, squash and a porcini mushroom foam. Back at the antipasti bar, there is no let up in quality, even if the selection is on the slim side. Load up on Milano salami, Norwegian smoked salmon and other cold cuts before tucking into a salad expertly prepped by the kitchen staff or some fresh-baked bread. Desserts (bitesize tiramisu, cheesecakes, truffles) come on a three-tiered tray, not serving tables, but, trust us, by this stage you’ll be fit to burst anyway.

รร. แพนแปซิฟิค ถ.พระราม 4

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

wine

featured

wıne bar

Vino di Zanotti

Just across the soi from long-standing Italian favourite Zanotti sits its appropriately-named little brother, Vino di Zanotti. Sounds of a jazz quartet envelope the room where customers chat with friends at high tables on stools, munch away on snacks and sip on, well, what else? Vino’s cellar stocks around 500 labels – 90% of them Italian – an impressive number for such a compact place. A blackboard lists their latest wine acquisitions and the 15+ choices by the glass can send you on a virtual tour di Italia. Begin with an easy Chianti, travel to a more complex Barolo and wrap up the journey with a big bold amarone. Quality Cubans from the humidor invite cigar aficionados to relax on one of the sleek, low sofas. WHERE 41 Soi Yommarat, Italians never drink without eating Sala Daeng Rd, (map C4), 02636-0855, www.zanottigroup. (or at least nibbling), so the bar menu has the chef’s favourites next to tempting tapas com BTS Sala Daeng open platters, wood-fired pies (the ‘Pizza Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight Zanotti’, draped with Parma ham and mascarpone, is divine) and light mains. Deeper cravings can be fulfilled by ordering off the main Zanotti menu. Reservations are highly advised.

วีโน่ ดิ ซานอทที่ี ซ.ยมราช ถ.ศาลาแดง

food & drinks

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

A taste of New Orleans...

Bourbon St. Restaurant & Oyster Bar

Serving up Asia’s finest Cajun and Creole cuisine since 1986.

“A must when you visit Thailand.” Newsweek

"Unlimited Wi-Fi" Fixin’ breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7am-1am Crawfish n US & Local Steaks Gumbo n Mexican buffet every Tuesday n Jambalaya n Fine cognac and cigars n Blackened Redfish n Oyster bar (raw, char-broiled, bienville & more...) n

941 Sukhumvit Rd. Between Sukhumvit 51-53 Mon - Sat 5.30 PM - 1 AM

Live Band Tue - Sat 8 PM - Midnight For Reservation Tel: 02-662-7605

Boutique Hotel available daily, weekly or monthly 29/4-10 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (Behind SportsMan Bar) Tel: 02-259-0328/9, 02-259-4317 Fax: 02-259-4318 Email: info@bourbonstbkk.com www.bourbonstbkk.com

f of ive % dl 30 orte ters p ys ly Im O on

Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Cowboy (btw sois 21 & 23). And voguish but affordable amount of options – so much more than just the hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and whisky-sippin’ naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot sois of Thong A night out here can easily have you flitting between Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.95) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.94), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.86. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can. The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.86), there’s something for all. Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here. Supperclub (p.84) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes – n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque Soi where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks. 82

nightlife

bangkok 101

Nightlife

808

nightclubs

Bed Supperclub Image by Marcus Gortz

Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no.

Bed Supperclub

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past seven years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 80’s pop hits with house music.

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Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4,Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping . ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 nightlife

808 (map D3) RCA, block C | 02-203-1043 | MRT Pra ram 9 | www.808bangkok.com | 9am-late This slick nightclub – all imposing red lighting, exposed brick and steelcladding – has been a hit with clubbers ever since it landed on RCA in 2007. The reason: the consistently worldclass line-up. Grandmaster Flash, James Lavelle and Derrick May to name but a few global DJ giants, have all rocked this post-industrial warehouse, aided in no small part by the ear-drum/body/ table rattling sound-system (watch that drink dance!). Head up to the balcony for a comfy leather perch, or gyrate with the diehards on the dancefloor. Entrance prices vary depending on who is gracing the decks that night.

เอท โอ เอท อาร์ซีเอ บลอกซี

CLUB CULTURE (map C3) Sri Ayutthaya Rd (opp. Siam City Hotel) | BTS Phaya Thai | 08-9497-8422 | www.club-culture-bkk.com | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am | B400 (incl. 2 drinks) This modish 1,000-capacity club attracts a cross-cultural mix of trendy Thais and expats and the diversity is mirrored in the music policy. They promote new talent, while also bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of breakbeat, electronica, trance, indie rock, drum ‘n’ bass and house music. Climb carpeted steps, pass through a curtained stairwell and you’ll enter a space where chandeliers and Thai wood carvings hang from the ceiling. Strategically placed structures, great for resting an elbow or a drink, dot the open-plan dance floor, surrounded by plush sofas and stools. It’s a beautiful building but the toilets lack a little finesse.

คลับ คัลเจอร์ ถ. ศรีอยุธยา

bangkok 101

Demo

The Club (map A3) 123 Khao San Rd,Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-1010 | www.theclubkhaosan. com | B100 (including 1 drink) The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a castle on Khao San Road. The spiral staircase of the central DJ platform and sky-high windows lend a fairy-tale vibe that would make Rapunzel want to let her hair down and hang loose. Musicwise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, from psy-trance to full on, cranium-rattling electro and techno. Ladies night on Thursdays treats the crowd to live percussion, and dancers entertain on Friday and Saturday nights. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.

เดอะ คลับ ถ. ข้าวสาร

DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970-1 | 8pm1am | free (except one-off parties) Is Demo a sign of clubs to come in Thonglor? Or just a blip on the slickly gentrified area’s cookie-cutter nightclub factory line? Time will tell. In the meantime, we strongly suggest you check out this ramshackle tenement building turned moody and very gritty warehouse. Not only does it look like a venue you’d find in shabby, hipster-heaving East London. It sounds like one too: instead of mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast trendy nu-disco,

bangkok 101

house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school – kudos! Further boosting its street-cool hip quotient, 1980s Brooklyn-style graffiti covers the brick walls and a vintage white Toyota Celica gleams in one corner. They offer a huge range of (quite expensive) beers, shots and cocktails and, though it’s only recently opened, weekends are already packed out with an international crowd.

เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ.10

THE TUNNEL (mapC3) Lang Suan soi 5 | BTS Chit Lom | 087594-0641| Tue-Sun 10pm - till late After a long hiatus, our after-hours venue of choice is back, once again causing taxis to clog up Lang Suan until the wee hours. Flash your I.D. at the harmless hulks on the door to enter a crypt-style hangout that’s filled with a veritable who’s who of the social scene. There’s ample dancing space and a DJ pod in the middle of the dance floor. A sweet sound system and switched on DJs blasting progressive house and electro ensure club goers won’t be disappointed. It’s house music all the way but the tune selection is a cut above the usual stuff that passes for dance music in other venues. Expect guest appearances from classy, European DJs. The entry fee includes one or two drinks. Turn up around 1am and you may get to dance until 4:30-5am.

เดอะทันแนล หลังสวน ซ.5 nightlife

Cabarets MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Rd | 02-294-7381-2 | show time 7:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm) | B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ ถ.พระราม3

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ่ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

Threesixty

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Red Sky (map C3) Centara Grand Hotel, Rama 1 Road | BTS Chid Lom/Siam | 02-100-1234 | www.centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm – 1am Hi-octane views, svelte Martinis, rattan loungers to enjoy them on. Ironically, the only thing you won’t be seeing at Centara Grande’s chicly lit al fresco bar is red. When not gasping at the city flickering like a circuit-board beneath you, let yourself be entertained by the boomerang-like edifice changing colour above the translucent bar; or stargaze into the fibre optic solar system embedded in the curving, wood-panel wall. Sip a bottle from their space-age wine cellar, or a well-mixed cocktail; they shake everything from Ying Yangs to classic Caipirinhas. Fifty five floors below, it’s all car horns and consumer frenzy, but up here, glass in hand, live jazz wafting through the ether, not even a gust of wind can upset the cosmic balance – glass barriers mean there are, virtually, none.

รร.เซ็นทารา แกรนด์ เซ็นทรัล เวิลด์ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart-casual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

bangkok 101

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee.The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe.The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

รร. โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

Panorama

Panorama Pan Pacific Bangkok, Rama IV Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for interminably hot or drizzly nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter found in the partitioned area at the rear of the Pan Pacific’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and up over downtown – not quite breathtaking, but still very Bangkok.

รร. แพนแปซิฟิค ถ.พระราม 4

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

bangkok 101

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterraneanish Amorosa.The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day of temple hopping. And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant,The Deck, and 6 lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

nightlife

Nightlife Zuk Bar

hotel bars

Bamboo Chic

Bamboo Chic (map C4) Le Meridien Bangkok 4F, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8888 | BTS Sala Daeng | www.lemeridienhotelbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Dim-tones and giant chandeliers set the tone for haute Sino-Nippon cuisine at Bamboo Chic: Le Meridien hotel’s dashing designer resto-bar. But Bangkok’s jetset have also taken a shine to what’s being served over at the arresting limeflorescent bar – innovative cocktails like the Kyoto martini: a delectable blend of dry gin, midori, dry vermouth and lemon juice, served in a fishbowl glass. High-wattage smiles and slick service rounds off this voguish venue, as apt for post-work or pre-dancefloor tipples as it is a swanky dinner. Just steel yourself for a blast of cognitive dissonance on arrival… Patpong, the neon sleazepit cum night market, is Bamboo Chic’s unscrupulous neighbour.

รร.เลอ เมอริเดียน กรุงเทพ ถ.สุรวงศ์

Barsu

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings.To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; inhouse DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

nightlife

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | MonSat 5pm-1am, Sun noon- midnight Guests and clued-up city enjoy zesty cocktails, creative canapés and an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquillity at this classy hotel bar. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the sultry look, mood and service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for heart-to-hearts.The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a sociable spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior. Quietly solicitous lady staff clad in silk serve while a DJ from Tues to Sat spins soulful tunes.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

bangkok 101

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnamese-inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues.The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

RAIN DOGS (map C4) 16 Soi Phraya Phiren, Rama 4 Rd | 081-720-6989 (Jum), 087-055-9407 (Cartoon) | www.raindogsbkk.com | 9pm till late Though rain dogs are mutts who lose the scent of home in the rain, it’s the humans who forget where home is after frequenting this grungy townhouse bar, where half the pleasure is in finding it in the first place. Hidden in the shadow of an expressway, it’s a go-to for Thai indie kids and journoartsy expats looking for inexpensive booze in bohemian surrounds, especially once other bars have kicked them out. Plonk yourself in one of the living room’s scuzzy sofas and enjoy one of the left-of-centre “happenings” – be it DJ party, live band, modern art documentary or one of your mates selecting tunes off their iPod. Or head out for some pseudo-intellectual conversation in the tatty garden. The vibe swings pleasantly between bangkok 101

raucous and chilled depending on what’s on and who rocks up. Join their Facebook group for the skinny and the much needed map.

boho bars Lollipop

เรนด๊อกส์ ซ.พระยาพิเรนทร์

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am This shabby open-air streetside joint is a real Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety island hole-inthe-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B60 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. CC’s is the kind of place where it’s easy to fall into conversation with other patrons; whether it’s because you’re sheltering from a rain shower together or end up sharing one of the few tables. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serve-yourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Put it this way: if you’re looking for a chocolate Martini and a plate of tapas, you’re in the wrong place. Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take nightlife

advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close - Raindogs is nearby, and it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom - and watch the night unfold.

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

LOLLIPOP (map A3) 1 Mahannop Soi 1, Mahannop Road, Pra Nakorn | 08-6339-1390 | Tue-Sun 5pm-1am This old wooden house in indie town Phranakorn – formerly rockpub Lullibar – looks like it has been ripped from a Tim Burton fantasy. Lime green walls, fiery red couches, old cameras and hippie bead curtains are only some of the whimsical new touches old fans welcome. The house bands now have a performing area where they can strum away without knocking drinks off the tables. And the previously neglected parts, namely the patio and the “garden” outside, have also been renovated to accommodate the Vespa driving hipster Thais who come here, not only for the live and jukebox indie tunes but also pub grub ranging from kap klaem (beer snacks) to seafood. One bad thing: Lollipop is hidden deep within the relatively unknown Soi Mahannop. But then again, if you’re cool enough to frequent a place like Lollipop, you’re cool enough to hang with the people who can get you there.

โลลี่ป๊อป มหรรณพ ซ.1

Nightlife

jazz clubs THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch. รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท

ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

Bamboo Bar

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small

nightlife

and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must. รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล

bangkok 101

DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ JAZZ GALLERY (map A3) 2nd floor (beneath Gazebo Bar), 44 Chakrapong Rd, (just off Khao San Road | 02-629-5821~2 | 6pm-1am The only thing “Khao San” about this standalone jazz lounge with a soft, elegant glow is its location, just off the raucous backpacker strip. Offering comfy armchairs on one side and casually riffing local jazz bands on the other, parquet floors, candlelight and discreet service, the Jazz Gallery is the most sophisticated venue to grace the area yet. And a great place to escape its moronic-music-loving masses.Think highbrow wine-bar for chardonnaysipping Coltrane-lovers. In addition to some of Thailand’s best jazz divas and ensembles, there’s a recessed art gallery, a smoking balcony (cigars available) and a wine cellar offering the best plonk in the neighbourhood. Mmmm, suave and smooth. แจ๊สแกลอรี่ ถ.จักรพงษ์

bangkok 101

Niu’s on Silom

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well wor th crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jaw-dropping jazz venue. Since August its dressy crowd has been soaking up that cameragrabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of new South Carolinian resident LaDee Streeter. Her sultr y renditions – spanning jazz to bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed. รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร nightlife

Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม

บ้านสีลม

Nightlife

live music BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this longstanding, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yester year with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band star ts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

TITANIUM ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 | www.titanium-club.com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from. An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nippleraising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, soul-stirring.

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of

the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

Tawandaeng German Brewery 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | This cavernous beer keg of a room plays host to Fong Nam, an energetic house band led by the talented Bruce Gaston, a New Yorker famous – in these parts, anyway – for giving traditional Thai music a Western makeover. Spurred on by up to 1,600 lary diners, they rollick through a musical repertoire that touches on everything from luk thung to driving mor lam, Thai orchestrals to western contemporary. They play every night from 7pm-1am, except Sundays. Besides their music (and the dry ice and dancing cabaret girls extravaganza that goes with it), Tawandaeng is also well-known for its micro-brewed beers, German sausage and deep-fried pork knuckle. Reservations recommended.

โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง

ไทเทเนียม ไอซ์บาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of 92

nightlife

bangkok 101

Tawandaeng

Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm - 1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage, it’s a sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eyecandy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. It’s a hike, but well worth it. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s – the secret’s out!

ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do theThai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

bangkok 101

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them reliving the glory years here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride you’ve stumbled on, while inside house bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything from Van Halen to Motorhead covers. Bands get going at 10pm weekdays, 9:30pm on weekends, as they have done for the past 22 years.

เดอะ ร๊อคผับ ถ.พญาไท

Bangkok Rocks (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

รร.เดอะคีย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.19

Bangkok Rocks

nightlife

Nightlife

nightlife areas

Hemlock

11 10

PHra athit rd

Police Station

8 7

Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of dek naew (trendy teens) and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young locals bounce along to excellent live ska. A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite, Zest [4] focuses on live Brit Rock, while Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down another alley, is a retro-cool cocktail house. More full-on, The Club [6] is a techno-rave palace offering free UV glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an opensided rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till the wee hours. For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at 1 6 3 2 rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club Burger kHao sanroad rd Khao San [10] deserves a mention. For outstanding seafood and King 5 4 absolutely no flair, check out Thon Po [11]. Directly on the riverside, this breezy place offers fantastic views and delicious fish and crustaceans from an expansive menu. Call ahead to reserve a riverfront spot.

Ekkamai/Thonglor

Funky Villa

new phetchaburi rd

Soi 20

Thong Lor Soi 10

Soi 16

Ekkamai Soi 28

BTS Ekkamai

Ekkamai Soi 10

Soi 1

Sukhumvit RD

Soi 21

In recent years these parallel boulevards have embraced sweeping gentrification and emerged as upmarket playgrounds for the young, studiously cool zeitgeist follower, be they celebrity, model, arty type, uni student or slick professional. Aside from their surfeit of luxury condos, boutique lifestyle emporiums, designer spas and restaurants both are studded with trendy nightspots catering to a predominantly Thai clientele. New ones pop up every few months, as if to keep hipsters on their toes and match that season’s colours. For now Muse [1], FunkyVilla [2] and Demo [3] – three giganto clubs on Thonglor Soi 10 – are all the rage. Meanwhile, scattered about are old-timers like Song Saleung [4], a recently refurbished and often heaving live music joint, and Shades of Retro [5] – a combo furniture-store café and hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd. Ekkamai’s main drag and side-streets are even better endowed party-wise. Curvaceous Curve [6] and glamorous Jet Metropolitan [7] are big, top-shelf joints offering the usual failsafe blend of live Thai music and DJ’s spinning R’n’B. As the scene stands both are big draws, though the crowds are so gleefully fickle that could change in a Bangkok minute.Track them to the cool club of the moment. Or try two that have achieved longevity: nightclub Nunglen [8] and 4 BTS Thong Lor scruffy little bar Happy Monday [9]. Pretty young Soi 55 (Thong lor) things bounce along to Thai 5 1 tunes in the former; while 2 3 media types (25+) hobnob while enjoying low-key indy6 8 rockstar DJ sessions (May T Soi 63 (Ekkamai) from Modern Dog etc) and 7 9 slouchy sofas in the latter.

nightlife

bangkok 101

ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

road

AL LO C

road

For a night of clubbing,Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music. Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] preaches bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Beside it, HOBB [4] is an industrial chic, two-storey bar. Expect DJs, live music plus occasional appearances by local bands like Bodyslam. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [5], a slick red-brick warehouse with a stunning sound system and sets by global DJ gods. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] attracts the drain-pipe jeans, rock-guitar rabble. There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a strict girls-only policy. No men, gay men, drag queens or peeping Tom’s allowed.

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Sukhumvit Soi 11

On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs tucked off steamy Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with fashionable expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely. This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 9 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]; a curvaceous club-cum-restaurant delivering spacey looks, soft white divans and Ibiza-esque beats. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad bigger than a broom cupboard. Nest 1 [4], a breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, is a more upscale 4 5 option offering 2 Bed Supperclub laid-back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean Bangkok you were after? For something more risqué 3 check out new neighbour Diva [5]. Inside, caged coyotedancers pull off raw, hi-energy dance moves in what they enticingly call: “A femme fatale of a nightclub.” Think Moulin Rouge meets the Pussycat Dolls add throbbing house beats and you’re close. Soi 11

Q Bar

SUKHUMVIT road

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

pub crawling

here are many ways of quenching a thirst, but surely the most enjoyable has to be sipping a pint of real beer in a proper public house. With an unexpectedly wide choice of British and Irish bars offering a taste of pub life, Bangkok won’t let you down on this front. Each month Bangkok 101 gives you the low-down on one of the top taverns around town.

featured

Black Swan

pub

As soon as you walk through the door of this place, nestled in the shadow of Asoke BTS station, one thing is clear, this is not a concept pub, this is a proper British boozer. You won’t find any faux-Irish décor, happy hours, or live bands; but that’s what makes it so appealing. It’s a snug escape from the madness of Bangkok with its wood paneled walls, adorned with a collection of mementoes; you even get a classic wise-cracking landlord thrown in for good measure. Its small size and low ceilings give it a cozy atmosphere helped by the low-level lighting and small brick fireplace. On the ground floor there is WHERE 326/8-9 a scattering of bench seats and Sukhumvit Rd (map D3), tables or romantics can head 02-229-4542, www.blackupstairs with its candle-lit seat- swanbkk.com OPEN ing. Be warned though this will 8am-midnight BTS involve negotiating the metal Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit spiral staircase, a challenge when you have had a drink or three. There is a good selection of beers, with Guinness, John Smith’s and Kilkenny on draught and a menu offering English style pub grub. Make sure you try the fish and chips - the haddock is imported direct from Scotland every Friday.

Balcony Humidor

Cigar Lounges

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality coronas and fine figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges typically feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and stellar selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and what is billed as Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies. n Balcony Humidor & P&L Club Cigar Bar Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 n Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight n La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com n P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

แบล็ค สวอน ใต้สถานนีรถไฟฟ้าอโศก ถ. สุขมุ วิท

Club Perdomo

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers.Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak sathorn road

Thaniya

patpong

Convent road

Surasak road

silom road

2 1 BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

Sukhumvit AREA PUBS

bangkok 101

soi 39

sukhumviT road

BTS Asoke

soi 22

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BTS Nana

soi 6

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soi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering city-sized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map - and prepare for sheer retail overload.

UNIQUE boutique

27 FRIDAY

Isaan, the country’s rural northeast, is “in”. And no, this is not according to the latest Tourist Authority of Thailand spin campaign, but the catwalks at Bangkok’s Elle Fashion Week back in October. Here, fashionistas almost choked on their cappuccinos when they spotted models sashaying down the runway in pha khao mar themed jackets, WHERE 3rd Floor, Siam Center, straw hats and vividly hued sashes of the sort Rama I Road | 02-658-1703 BTS normally found wrapped around sacred trees. Siam OPEN 10am-9pm For this reimagining of northeastern motifs we have Chanachai Jareeyathana and his fashion label, 27 Friday, to thank. Eschewing formal fashion sensibilities, its Autumn Winter collection – titled ‘She Has Been Waiting’ after a famous Thai lukthung song – is bringing colourful and well-cut baan nok (country bumpkin) rags to the city’s clothing racks. Girls get ikat-patterned blouses, skirts and trousers as well as embroidered mini-dresses and jackets. Boys get shorts, checked jackets and patterned or plain colour linen shirts with needlework inspired by por puang malai (flower garlands) or rice eaves. This is exciting high-street fashion: nostalgic yes, but also frivolous, folksy and eminently wearable.

สยามเซ็นเตอร์

shopping

bangkok 101

stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, home-grown “stuff” that Bangkok is justly famous for.

Silk/apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down.The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom bangkok 101

Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for royalty), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com

Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while youth-orientated shopping mall Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer homespun high fashions by labels like Jaspal and Greyhound.

Jewellery/gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionallymined precious stones. The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam. There are a few diamonds in the rough, though. Lambert Industries, with their friendly and reliable service, has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. n Lambert Industries (807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg 4F, Silom Rd Soi 17, 02-236-4343).

OTOP: One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP, a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living.

shopping

Shopping

Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.102). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week. Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.102); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595

Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th n Panpuri

Shopping Tips

n Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head.

n Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

n Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. 100

shopping

Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power. At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Isetan Plaza (CentralWorld) F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info n VAT: Look out for signs advertising “VAT Refund or Tourists”. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7% on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th

bangkok 101

PLANAR FORM:

Chulaphun Chulanond of Existenze

bangkok design Brian Mertens

he design of hand carpentered Existenze chairs begins not in the workshop but on a computer. Chulaphun Chulanond says he is less interested in the three-dimensional forms of his furniture than its graphic profile. “Other people tend to make furniture as something you can sit on, rather than as something graphic you can sit on. My style is about lines and planes that intersect, shapes that interact, the play of light and shadow on lines of wood.” Chulaphun’s work celebrates understatement, natural materials and fine craftsmanship in a spirit that’s virtually Japanese. And indeed, Existenze furniture has been well received in Japan, where in 2004 the La Vie screen won a G-Mark Good Design Award from the Japan Industrial Design Promotion Organization. In Thailand, this furniture is prized by architects and interior designers because it marries the warmth of wood to a cool, modern geometry. Chulaphun took an oblique path getting to furniture. He studied painting in college, played bass in a punk rock band, then spent years designing layouts for magazines. Chulphun says his design impulse erupted after years of wondering why so little of the great furniture he saw in magazines was being created in Thailand. “I wanted to make something that would make me happy, and that’s how I feel when I create a new design.” Available from: n Khun Maam | xistnz@hotmail.com | 02-718-9487, 089-891-4338 n S.B. Design Square | Crystal Design Centre, 1436 Ladprao Road, Klongjan Bangkopi | 02-5150922 n S.B. Design Square | CentralWorld, No. 4, 4/1-2, 4/4 5th floor Ratchadamri Road, Pratumwan | 02-5150922 Bangkok Design:Thai Ideas in Textiles and Furniture is the first book to explore Asia’s new wave in design creativity. Award-winning author Brian Mertens profiles 36 of Thailand’s top designers, showing how they translate their own culture and experiences into unique furnishings that have won international awards and museum exhibitions. Typically handcrafted from natural materials, the best contemporary Thai designs celebrate wit, warmth, sustainability and alluring form. Bangkok Design – published by Marshall Cavendish – B1,200 - hardcover, written by Brian Mertens, with photos by Robert McLeod. bangkok 101

shopping

101

Shopping

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 The Four Seasons 4 Grand Hyatt Erawan 5 Intercontinental 6 Holiday Inn 7 Conrad 8 Plaza Athenee 9 Royal Orchid Sheraton 10 The Oriental 11 The Peninsula 12 Shangri-La

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

CENTRALWORLD BTS Siam All hail Bangkok’s largest shopping mall, uniquely served by an elevated walkway connecting Siam Skytrain station to its Chit Lom counterpart.

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OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel. 12

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To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

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BTS Ploen Chit

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CENTRAL CHIT LOM BTS Chit Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

phetburi rd

ploenchit rd

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chid Lom All-white interior of glitzy, top-class brands – expect Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

chidlom

lang suan rd

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Look for TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

Ratchadamri rd

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chid Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine. Think Burberry. BTS Chitlom

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ZEN BTS Siam This pop art-styled, multilevel designer department store aims to attire Bangkok’s young-at-heart funsters in the latest international fashions.

Phaya Thai rd

u ri rd

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

ph e tb

Phaya Thai rd

m silo

bangkok 101

Shopping

markets

the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-that-be auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s obsessive collection of modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนท์บาร์ซาร์

Pratunam

CHATUCHAK (map D1) Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere – the rest can get lost – literally. Taking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which zillions descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Chatuchak quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs during ‘Nam; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has somehow evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for peddling endangered species). 104

All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order begins to crystallise from the chaos (Nancy Chandler’s famous map also comes in invaluable). Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits - although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated fix.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with shopping

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was hailed as “Venice of the East”.

เทเวศน์

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the “thieves market”, this smallish street-side market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique, and a seemingly random assortment of household appliances. As its nickname would suggest, ample bargains await patient, eagleeyed shoppers - though don’t expect a receipt, let alone a refund.

นครเกษม

bangkok 101

Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny T-shirts, wooden carvings, paintings and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the stuff on offer can be picked up in the malls and markets – but where’s the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain! Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tiedye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff (frayed t-shirts, handbags, polka dot dresses etc) are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale by the city’s baby-faced entrepreneurs. Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am,

when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here. Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail boats moored on idyllic southern

sidewalks beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone? Pratunam A ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!). Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item.

...fabrics for cocktail dresses, evening wear and day-wear

Chakphet Rd. Chakphet Rd.

Merryking

Wangburapa Rd.

...from french laces, silk jacquards, chiffon prints, cording laces, embroidered laces, taffettas linens, cottons, satins, and more...

Chakphet Rd.

Specialists in high-quality fabrics for women!! The Old Siam

Visit us now for the lastest collections and new designs!! Gandhi-326 Phahurat Road Bangkok10200 T02-2255-997/503 H 9-6pm (Mon-Sat) 9-530pm (Sun) Cynosure-A002 G/F ChinaWorld Phahurat Road Bangkok10200 T02-225-2001-3 H 930-7pm (Mon-Sun)

bangkok 101

shopping

105

Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In each new issue Bangkok 101 brings you the best of Bangkok’s new breed. Each month we uncover those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy boutique hotel banner.

MYSTIC PLACE

Take 36 rooms in a northern suburb. Invite 36 local artists to decorate them. Garnish with eye-popping lobby and serve chilled to young, design-savvy flashpackers. What is it, you ask? Why, it’s Mystic Place, a kitschy art experiment of a hotel, Bangkok’s quirkiest by miles. Now under new management, the boutique hotel formerly known as ‘Reflections’ presents guests with 36 unique room choices, each one as artsy and, quite frankly, as bonkers as the next. A cineaste? Try Room 415, a richWHERE 224/5-9, 224/11-18 red, slightly seedy homage to local Pradipat Rd, Phayathai 02-270cinema plastered in retro movie 3344, www.mysticplacebkk.com posters and with its own screening BTS Saphan Khwai (10 minutes room. Want trendy? Pairing squishy walk) PRICE B2,250-B3,250 metallic sheet flooring and lurid UV wall graffiti, Room 212 is an exercise in noughties bad taste. Want less confrontational, more cheerful? Room 211 is all warm grey, cartoon-cutesy murals and beanbags, while bright Room 402 takes its cue from the birds nest, blending recycled manmade materials with twigs, grasses and leaves. Whichever room you do eventually plump for, you can be sure it’s comfy as well as painfully cool – TVs, DVD player, cable and WIFI are included. The staff despite limited English are also of the embarrassingly helpful variety. Location-wise, Mystic Place is hidden on a rough-and-ready street well out of central Bangkok. However, a sexy little tuk-tuk ferries guests at set times to the nearest Skytrain station (a ten minute walk otherwise). And you’re only around the block from hip Soi Ari and Chatuchak Weekend Market. General consensus: like the latest Tracey Emin, you’ll either love it or loathe it. . มิสทีคเพลส ถ.ประดิพัทธ์ 106

accommodation

bangkok 101

“You don’t check in .. but you settle in”

1 Sathorn Soi 3, South Sathorn Road, Thungmahamek, Sathorn, Bangkok, Thailand 10120 Tel : (66) 2 343 6789 Fax : (66) 2 343 6790 visit www.marriott.com/bkkea

60 Soi Langsuan, Lumpini, Pathumwan Bangkok, 10330 Thailand Tel: (66) 2 6721234 Fax: (66) 2 6721235 Visit www.marriott.com/bkker

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

Thai-massage

body & beauty

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.109 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

Urban Retreat Spa – 31/10 Sukhumvit Soi 35

signature treatment / BTS Phrom Phong / 02-204-2008-9 / www. Hot Candle Treatment urbanretreatspa.net <http://www.urbanre-

treatspa.net> /$ This new treatment sounds a bit Body of Evidence./ 10am-10pm If 30-minute Himalayan Crystal pink Salts with you’re not familiar with this 1993 thriller in which a Yogurt and Honey Scrub + 60-minute Macscantily clad Madonna (what other kindadamia is there?) Oilpours Massage: 1200 baht Tucked away in a side street close to Phrom hot candle wax over the body of her lover’s torso, lucky Phong, Urban Retreat is precisely that – a quiyou, it’s lousy. If you are, rest assured this treatment et spot close toatthe bustle of Sukhumvit and Emporium shopping mall. This the cosy Crystal Spa, snuggled nextthe to upscale BTS Phrom new, small spa is popular with Thais and longPhong, is reminiscent in name only. There is nothing term foreign residents drawn by very good sadomasochistic or hot, in the sexual sensethat of the services don’t suffer for being affordable. menuof is trim and tidy, with a focus word, about this treatment. Ok, so there is a Spa shudder on massage, kinky frisson as the first drips although of hot aromatherapy candle scrubs and WHERE 1541 Sukhumvit oil dribble across the small Rd, www.crystalspathailand. of your back, but otherwise com BTS Phra Khanong, this is 90 minutes of U-rated 02-382-2244 bliss. In a dim earth-toned OPEN 10am – 10pm treatment room lit by diffuse, PRICE B1,200 – 1,600 you guessed it candlelight, your masseuse performs a silky Swedish massage at a pensive tempo. Her long studied strokes along the length of your arms, legs and upper body lead you straight into land of dreamy nod territory, making for an experience that, unlike Body of Evidence, will probably leave you asking “where’s the rewind button?”

คริสตัลสปา ติดสถานีรถไฟฟ้าพระโขนง

108

health & wellness

bangkok 101

typical SPA cost range

THANN SANCTUARY (map C3) Room 518B, Siam Discovery Center, 5th Fl. | BTS National Stadium | 02658-0500 | 10am-9pm | $$$ A dime-sized delight. Stagger away from the madness at MBK and head to serene Thann Spa – just a few tasteful, small rooms tucked away in Siam Discovery. As with the Harnn sister spa at Paragon, this sweet little storefront is an extension of a highend beauty product line. Rooms are finished in black stone, high ceilings compensating for compact quarters. The menu is small, but very appealing, featuring a variety of massage forms – Thai, aromatherapy, Ayurvedic, among others. The Purifying Facial is one of the best little pick-me-ups in Bangkok – 45 minutes of cleansing and mask application, along with facial massage. Neck, shoulders, arms and legs don‘t go neglected. Expert technicians are generous with those heavenly Thann products, even applying balm to dry lips. Staff are a delight, and are handsoff but happy to help you pick out little Thann treats to take home.

สยามดิสคัฟเวอร์รี่ ถ.พระราม 1

Thann

bangkok 101

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

BANGKOK OASIS SPA (map D3) 64 Sukhumvit 31 (Soi Sawasdee) | BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | www.bangkokoasis.com | 02-262-2122 | 10am-10pm | $$ Calm and relaxation aren’t words that spring to mind when one thinks of Sukhumvit Road. But in the bucolic, picturesque surroundings of this luxurious spa, jasmine scents, soothing music, wood décor and “aesthetic” vases of reeds combine to impart the feeling of being at one with nature. A link in a chain of up-and-coming day spas with therapists imported from Chiang Mai, the signature treatment here is the “four hands” massage, with two members of the team applying pressure simultaneously on both the upper and lower parts of the body. Resistance is futile: aches and pains will deliciously melt away. It might even be too much for visitors still reeling from the sheer abundance – and privileged pricing – of spas in the Kingdom.

spas The Grande Spa (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 250 Sukhumvit Road | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 | 8am10pm | $$$$ Technological or traditional treatments, The Grande Spa does it all. Die-hard dieters can zap that flab with the spa’s CACI machine, which sends mild electric currents to the muscles underneath – a fat-blasting workout for sweat-averse celebrities or true spa freaks. Cheerfully professional technicians take the fear factor out of the electrodes and also deliver topnotch traditional treatments. Defying notions of cookie-cutter hotel spas, therapists tailor sessions to your body within minutes, and offer up expert suggestions for keeping those aches at bay. The fantastic Thai Herbal Pound combines both Western and Thai body therapy techniques – the session includes the application of a warm herbal compress to key points along the body, an oil massage, and a facial cleansing.

รร.เชอราตันแกรนด์สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

แบงคอกโอเอซิสสปา ซ.สวัสดี (สุขุมวิท 31)

health & wellness

109

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-the-art equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

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ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified health & wellness

physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.

เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

Amruth Wellness Center (mapE4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient at this leafy garden townhouse gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a drop-in, dropout treatment, a yoga sesh or to embark on a life-changing panchakarma package. Stocked with medicines imported from the Subcontinent, holistic highlights include a hanging massage and the head oil-dribbling odyssey that is a shiro dhara.

อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8

BANGKOK MEDIPLEX (map E4) 2/70 Sukhumvit 42, Phrakanong | BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-5555 | www.bangkokmediplex.com | 9am – 8pm Visible from the Ekkamai Skytrain Station, this gleaming steel and glass fronted lifestyle mall comprises 35 leading healthcare centres and trendy medi-lifestyle stores. There’s a clinic offering live cell therapy (a treatment to repair weak cells), a traditional Chinese medicine centre, a chiropractic centre, top notch eye-care and Thailand’s first organic supermarket. Ample parking.

แบงคอก เมดิเพลกซ์ สุขมุ วิท 42

bangkok 101

edical tourism is huge business in Thailand; a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of others – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international trade. The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other. When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls. Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad, once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your private room, they have their own immigration department and

bangkok 101

a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your trip. You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications? Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul? And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa? These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment.

FEATURED medical treatment

medical tourism Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International

33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com Bangkok Plastic Surgery

Abdominoplasty (Tummy Tuck) So maybe you enjoy having a pint or two. Or ten. And nowadays when you look in the mirror it seems as if you’re hiding a bowl of jelly under your shirt. Your friends are probably telling you it’s time to hit the gym and do some crunches. But if you can’t be bothered to mingle with the grunting and flexing crowd there is an alternative. Abdominoplasty, better known as a tummy tuck, is a cosmetic procedure which gives your abdomen a little fine tuning. Muscles are tightened, fat is removed, and excess saggy skin eliminated. This procedure is best suited to relatively healthy men and women who have trouble getting rid of that oh-sodreaded belly fat. And it’s a very popular choice for women after pregnancy. Though not painless, the procedure is pretty simple and can be completed within a couple hours. And you should be healed within a few weeks. Before you hit the beach to show off your newly acquired six-pack, it should be noted that there are some side effects. There will be a permanent post-op scar that can stretch from hip to hip and future pregnancies will cause tightened muscles to separate. Thailand has become one of the world’s leading centres for plastic surgery, and most medical practitioners are trained up to international standards. The prices are immensely competitive, particularly compared with other Western counterparts. As always, be sure to research your procedure carefully. Where to tuck your tummy n Bangkok Hospital Medical Center Soi Soonvijai 2, New Petchaburi Rd. | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com n Bangkok Plastic Surgery -422-426/1 Indramara Soi 20, Suthisarn Rd. | 02-690-8080 | www.bangkokplasticsurgery.com -Clinic Soi 1 | 220/2-3 Sukhumwit Soi 1 | 02-255-5525 | www.surgery-thailand.com n Preecha Aesthetic Institute PAI Bldg. Sukhumvit 55 (Thong Lor) | www.pai.co.th

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Sports

sports MASTER MUAY THAI! Many a champ started out punching mitts at one of Bangkok’s many muay Thai schools. Some are livein training camps, others geared towards drop-in sessions, but all will train you up and teach you how to deflect – and deliver – the basic moves, be it kick, jab, elbow, foot thrust or standing grapple. Beginners and female pugilists are welcome, though they often receive inordinate attention from the coming-of-age combatants. n Chacrit Muay Thai School Washington Square next to Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-260-5816 www.chacritmuaythaischool.com n Fairtex Muaythai RCA 149 3rd Fl. RCA Driving Range, Local Rd. | 02-203-1443 | www.muaythaifairtex.com n The International Muay Thai School 22/8 Moo 8, Soi 10, Pracharaj Sai1 Road, Bangsue | 02-585-6807 www.geocities.com/maimuangkorn/ eng_mai.htm n Muay Thai Institute 336/932 Prahonyothin 118 Vipravadee Road, Rangsit | 02-9920096-99 | www.muaythai-institute.net n Muaythai Sasiprapa 401 Soi Ladprao 130 Klongchan, Bangkapi | 02-378-0270 | www.muaythaisasiprapa.com

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THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

Fairtex

MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF, the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. spor ts

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.37) on any given day and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums.The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. bangkok 101

Spiceroads

Active Sports AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in! BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK. bangkok 101

CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand and its neighbours. ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Esplanade 4F | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more spor ts

like a nightclub on ice. Popular among youngsters, its 682m2 of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B900-2,400 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Centre (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with local ace Paradorn Srichaphan bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 113

Courses&Ser vices

courses

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi | 02-294-9029 | www.baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 114

(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02711-5270-3 | www.chivasomacademy. com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. The high but justified prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses available in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล อะคาเดมี

โมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well. Perfect for a serious, but short stint into Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

Plant-a-Tree-Foundation

he need for both developed and developing countries to begin implementing environmentally responsible strategies, in all walks of life, is evermore pressing. While governments grapple with unpopular but potentially earth-saving choices, it is organisations like Plant-a-Tree-Today (PATT) that take the leap towards really making a difference in this global crisis. Formed in late 2005, Plant-a-Tree-Today works in conjunction with corporate partners, government and intergovernmental agencies, non governmental organisations (NGOs), local authorities, and local communities to plant 1 million trees per year. The main aim is to combat the already devastating effects that climate change has wrought upon our world, to help institutions big and small achieve ecologically sustainable development. Some of PATT’s most important activities include: n Implementation of reforestation projects n Provision of funding for partner projects n Construction of school tree nurseries n Teaching of environmental education for all children n Offsetting of personal carbon footprints n Raising public awareness of climate change Though they plan to expand into neighbouring countries, Thailand is currently the focus of all PATT’s operations.

bangkok 101

Projects they have worked on in the Kingdom include the reforestation of a protected area in Ratchaburi province, mangrove rehabilitation in Hua Hin, and a bio-diesel project in Chiang Rai which increased the self-sufficiency of a local hill-tribe community. Plant-A-Tree’s latest pet-project is in a tiny village in Buriram province called Baan Nong Muangm. Its objectives include the restoration of a degraded land area, increased forest cover, reduced CO2 emissions and education in climate change at a local level. To achieve them, PATT needs to fund the planting of 5,000+ trees (it costs 5 USD, B165, or 2.5 GBP for a single tree). If you would like to make merit by funding this, or upcoming projects in the Kingdom, please contact PATT via the following channels: PATT Foundation c/o Equitech (Thailand) Ltd, BB Building, 7th Floor, Office # 3705, Sukhumvit 21 Road (Asoke), Klongtoey-Nua, Wattana, Tel: 02-259-6255 Or donate online at: www.plant-a-tree-today.org

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Business

business In Bangkok on business? Rest assured it brings a lot to the table. Convention centres, ritzy hotels, world-class wine-and-dine spots... it’s little wonder it’s a regional hub for MICE (Meetings and Incentives, Conferences and Exhibitions), especially when you factor in the myriad down-time attractions. We dig up all the basics so that you don’t have to. Business Travellers Top on the list after you’ve touched down is, of course, a hotel.There are lots to choose from, in every location, but those that tick every business-traveller box include The Conrad, Sofitel Silom, Westin Grande and Sheraton Grande. Bangkok’s traffic has a justifiably miserable reputation, but having a car at your disposal can be handy. Try Limousine Thailand (www. limousinethailand.com). And if your hotel room isn’t cutting it as a makeshift office, then contact temporary office providers Regus (www.regus.co.th) or Servcorp (www.servcorp.net).

There’s rarely a quiet moment on the local trade fair scene. For a rundown, see www.thaitradefair.com. Or perhaps you’re considering staging your company’s big meet or team get-away here? If so, talk to the Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (www.tceb.or.th). They say it’s who you know – not what you know. To get your face out there, join one of the networking events hosted by Bangkok Young Professionals (www.mobyelite.com/byp) or others. If you’re short on business cards – and you will be after a night at the aforementioned – try one of the many one-stopshops at MBK shopping mall. It’s also worth reading up on Thailand’s face-saving and, often quirky, business culture.Try Working with the Thais: A Guide to Managing in Thailand by Henry Holmes and Suchada Tangtongtavy (White Lotus, B495). Finally, note that any foreigner working, or doing business here, must have a non-immigrant B visa and a work permit. If your company hasn’t arranged both, go to www.immigration.go.th and find out what you need. Or contact a business solutions provider like Sunbelt Asia – they’ll do all the paperwork so that you don’t have to. Starting Up Frequently voted one of the world’s best cities, it’s no surprise that so many look to set up shop in Bangkok. However, bear in mind that although Thailand opened it doors wide to foreign investment after the Asian Financial Crisis of 1997, it can still be a tricky place to establish a business. The best advice is to find local experts to help you clear the regulatory hurdles. Business solutions provider Sunbelt Asia (www.sunbeltasia.com) offers everything from upfront legal advice to business brokerage and serviced offices. Similarly, Bangkok Base (www.bangkokbase.com) is a 360° provider of business support. Chambers of commerce can also offer advice and assistance in finding partners. There are also a few books on the market. One of the best is Philip Wylie’s How to Establish a Successful Business in Thailand. In it you will find the essentials on the minutiae of business in Thailand, from negotiating baffling bureaucracy and legal peculiarities to cultural codes and social etiquette.

Business spotlight

Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park

A new business hotel in Bangkok isn’t something we’d usually shout from the rooftops. The city has plenty. However the opening rates at the new, 300-unit Marriott on Sukhumvit Soi 24, or to give its full name the Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park, are so attractive we just had to tell somebody. Until 31st March 2010, they’re offering roughly 30% off their rack rates (more if you stay for more than two weeks). For example, one of their ultra dapper, luxurious and capacious one-bedroom suites (65m2; king-size bed, working area with kitchen) will currently set you back B3,900++ a night instead of the usual B6,000++. And a humungous two bedroom apartment (130m2), B6,900++ instead of B10,000++. Stonking good value in a city where even a poky boutique hotel room can cost as much. While we’re on the subject, this is a very striking and well-endowed hotel. An opulent cream marble lobby leads to an on-site deli and very upbeat restaurant called Bistro M, while upstairs Where 90 Sukhumvit Soi 24, Klongtoey, 02-302-5555, there is everything from a slick gym, lap pool, www.marriott.com/bkksp BTS Phrom Phong Prices studio tennis and squash court to cutting-edge function B3,500++, one bedroom suite B3,900++, two bedroom apartment rooms and business facilities. B6,900++ (opening rates, applicable until 31st March 2010) แมริออท อพาร์ทเมนท์ สุขุมวิท สุขุมวิท 24 116

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Reference

survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words. Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement). The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then. Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you? I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

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sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná kho˘ thôt khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669 LOST CREDIT CARD CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) MasterCard 02-260-8572 Visa 02-273-1199 or 02-273-7449 MEDICAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHONE SERVICES Bangkok Directory Inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 International Long Distance 100 Overseas Subscribers Call 001 TOURISM OFFICES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist Information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-282- 9773, 02-2505500 | daily 8:30am- 4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02- 250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www. bangkoktourist.com IMMIGRATION DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am- 4pm EMBASSIES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02344-6300 | www.austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place 15F, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.bangkokinternational.gc.ca bangkok 101

contacts SKYTRAIN/SUBWAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-612-2444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BUS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mor Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai)

Surfing BKK There’s a million websites out there, all desperate for a good quick click – but these are the only ones we would take home to meet our mum. n www.1stopbangkok.com Everything you wanted to know about Bangkok but were afraid to ask. n www.thaivisa.com General, boring, immigration type stuff and an entertaining messageboard. n www.bangkokartmap.com Find out where the pretty pictures and free wine’s at. n www.paknamweb.com Blogs, blogs and more blogs. Everything from the Thai lottery to sizzling streetfood. n www.movieseer.com Popcorn? Check. Emergency sweater? Check. Showtimes? Check here! MRT

TRAIN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 reference

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Reference

getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options. anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers. MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand.

BTS

ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the public taxi queue outside the terminal, a B50 surcharge is added to the metered fare. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you

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BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-23 Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts. co.th

reference

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro. co.th RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.24) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance. Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3. CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B8 to B18. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.

bangkok 101