Bangkok 101 - June 2010 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

june 2010 100 baht

Reflecting Bangkok Photography by Joseph Thiéry

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1 on 1: Judy Benn Metrobeat: Iron Fairies Very Thai: Hi-so Daytrip: Chachoengsao Upcountry Escape: Phi Ta Khon Making Merit: Moo Baan Dek june 2010

HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

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publisher’s

letter

Phi Ta Khon Festival

june 2010

new month, a new beginning. Or so we can only hope, after a May that will surely go down as one of the most harrowing in Bangkok’s modern history, a month that saw smoking streets, sniper fire and burning buildings bring the street protests to a sad, bloody and unsatisfying-for-allconcerned finale. Already a tentative normality has returned to the capital… and yet there can be no denying the shockwaves which are still reverberating. Art exhibitions, concerts and other cultural events are all thin on the ground this month, with the indefinite postponement of French Thai cultural festival La Fête in particular leaving a whacking great hole in Bangkok’s June events roster. See Events Calendar for a rundown of those that are taking place. This month’s photofeature, Reflecting Bangkok, finds French shutterbug Joseph Thiéry using the street’s mirror-like surfaces to capture distorted reflections of reality. Go to p.46 to see what he’s been up to – then get out there and have a go yourself. June should be the perfect time, what with the annual monsoon rains leaving puddles – Thiéry’s impromptu mirror of choice – all over the city at every opportunity. The monsoon rains also figure in this month’s Phi Ta Khon, undoubtedly one of the most boisterous pagan festivals in the land. See Upcountry Escape for the lowdown and pictures of locals parading through town dressed as seriously freaky ghosts. Our Daytrip meanwhile is to Chachoengsao, a province only an hour’s drive away notable for its hundred year old markets, not to mention it’s not being plugged in all the usual tourist publications. More local secrets are also exposed in our Very Thai ters column, which this month scrutinizes the hi-so – Thailand’s upper k 101 ca d, Bangko an what they se ia b n u crust. Our Chronicle of Thailand excerpt recounts a brief th ent and r more er Independ rs who yearn fo s. It brings togeth , outbreak of Beatlemania back in June 1964, while in 1 on lle k rs e o te v o a ri b tr e w d guid dents, to savvy 1, the head of the American Chamber of Commerce, Judy ighty, date Who of city resi . The result e w in d fin ho’s tators Benn, talks about the investment climate for foreigners. Judy travel ritative W commen an autho ers and cultural f monthly ff the o d ri b says that “the people and culture still make this an enjoyable y h h p o t ra n d g e n g a to lli o ph inte u on place to do business.” pact and ine that takes yo employs the is a com z a 1 g 0 d city ma track. Bangkok 1 no smut and no We couldn’t agree more. And with this issue of guide an fluff, urist o to n rn h it o bought. w w Bangkok 101 we think you’ll agree its still, despite the recent wellnnot be ndards, a a c st t l n a , ri te o n dit al co r readers mayhem, a swell place to visit too. highest e ur editori us on ou

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Mason Florence Publisher

contributors Joseph Thiéry

Freelance photographer, photo-journalist and graphicdesigner Joseph Thiéry left France two and a half years ago on a tour around Asia, shortly after which Bangkok became his adopted basecamp. His photographs have appeared on the National Geographic Channel and National Geographic website, as well as in The Daily Express and a few other publications. His work can be seen at www.josephthiery.com

Philip CornwelSmith

Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness: Thailand and international magazines.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Author Brian Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s new wave of textiles and furniture in his recent coffee table volume Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and current affairs for such publications as New York Times, Art AsiaPacific and Forbes. A former resident of New York City and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

Tom Mintier

From covering the Vietnam War as an army photographer to heading up CNN bureaus in London and Bangkok, Tom Mintier is one of the most recognised and respected media figures in Thailand today. An Emmy award-winning television news journalist, Tom covered many events live for CNN, including the 1989 student uprising in Tiananmen Square and the fall of the Berlin Wall. Currently a consultant at AMATA Corp and professor at Thammasat University in Bangkok, Tom continues to train local journalists.

Steven Pettifor

British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia.com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Staff Writer Nattaphol Suksuyuth Graphic Director Yuthtaya Sangnak Art Designer Narong Srisaiya Editorial Assistant Piyakwan Mettaprasert Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Ashley Simcox, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,TAT Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Account Executives Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Pradchya Kanmanee Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2009. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents

june 2010

snapshots

8 10 11 12 14 15 16 17

101 picks 1 on 1: judy benn events calendar metro beat history chronicle of thailand: beatles mobbed customs very thai: hi-so

sightseeing

18 19 20 21 22 23 24 26 28 29 30 32 33 34 36 37 38 39 40

orientation riverside route101: rattanakosin route101: chinatown route101: silom & sathorn route101: sukhumvit route101: pathumwan siam and pratunam temples historic buildings kids in the city & shrines museums the great outdoors what next? day tripping in the neighbourhood chachoengsao buddhist temples of thailand: wat suan phlu upcountry festivals upcountry escape: phi tha khon, loei

arts 44 45 46 54 55 56 57

contemporary art exhibitions photo feature: reflecting bangkok performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening

On the cover: The sun sets on a Bangkok backstreet after an afternoon of heavy rain.

table of

contents

june 2010

accommodation 106 boutique bangkok

health & wellness 68

food & drinks 58 59 60 61 62 63 68 72 73 74 75 76 77 78

dining in bangkok meal deals thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants neighbourhood nosh: soi convent dim-sum brunching tea late dining sweet treats all you can eat wine

nightlife 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars bars jazz clubs live music nightlife areas pub crawling

108 109 110 111

body & beauty spas wellness centres medical tourism

sports

112 spectator sports 113 active sports

business 114 business 115 real estate

couses & services

116 cooking, meditation & thai massage, courses 117 making merit: moo baan dek

reference 118 survival thai 119 contacts 120 getting around

108

shopping 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105

unique boutique stuff shopping tips bangkok design mall crawl chatuchak market markets sidewalks

117

Snapshots

101 picks

Before dashing off to a tropical island or the mountains, scratch beneath the city’s gritty surface to discover gems that’ll keep you here longer. We’ve compiled our Bangkok favourites here.

one night in bangkok

shopping

thai style

food heaven

open air

■ Chatuchak A huge, sprawling village of a market, selling everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.103).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.115).

■ Beautiful Brunches L a ze a r o u n d w i t h friends, newspapers for those great late breakfasts (p. 73).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a big zoo & Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous greener y (p.28).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day. Party all night. Never grow old. It’s fun to be a Bangkokian (pp.80-92).

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar A pleasant evening market with arts, crafts and textiles. And a massive beer garden (p.104).

■ Thai Massage A cracking good time – though not for the faint hearted (p.108).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Get thee to a food court.

■ On the River Take an express boat up to Nonthaburi or explore the canal communities of Thonburi (p.19).

■ Cabarets Wow, she is beautiful. Such a graceful dancer. And what a figure! Eh… what do you mean “he”? (p.83).

■ Siam Square All the young dudes head to this cradle of cool for the latest flicks and threads (p.102).

■ Thai Cooking Classes Learn to pound a proper paste like a pro (p.114).

■ Riverside Dining The Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome backdrop.And there are plenty of good restaurant options (p.20).

■ Cycling Tour Maybe not an obvious choice, but these tours are surprisingly popular (p.113).

■ High Attitude Bars Slinky cocktails at eight miles high. Not cheap, but well worth it (p.84).

■ Patpong A thin strip in the CBD jam-packed with market stalls and, er, go-go bars (p.105).

■ Thai Boxing The brutal, quintessentially Thai form of kickboxing (p.112).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of special offers to eat at some of the city’s best restaurants (p.59).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the museum park of Muang Boran, and see Thailand in miniature! (p.34).

■ Dining Cruises Stuff your face as you wind your way along the Chao Phraya (p.59).

■ Panthip Plaza The ultimate computer-geek mecca. If you can’t find it here you just haven’t looked hard enough (p.102).

■ TCDC Cool, creative learning space for Thai designers (p.55).

■ Street Food Pull up a plastic stool and get ready to point and shoot (p.62).

■ Lumpini Park A huge green space in the heart of the city. Perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the ponds (p.32).

■ Carnivalesque Get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11 (pp.94-95).

■ Paragon Two of the swishest mega-malls you’re ever likely to encounter. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be the third floor (p.102).

■ Jim Thompson House & Silk Shop This former spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade then disappeared. Nice house though (p.28).

■ Affordable Gourmet Food If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, Bangkok needn’t break the bank (p.63).

■ Flower Market Close your eyes and inhale deeply. 24-hour marigold madness. (p.104)

■ Theatre TraditionalThai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.54)

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bangkok 101

y nt onl e ou od Jun isc fo 0 D for ed 3 % ir 20 Exp

Tokyo Style Japanese with a Modern Atmosphere

First time in Thailand, Rakuza Tokyo is a Tokyo Style Japanese restaurant With an indoor and outdoor atmosphere. The restaurant is suitable for casual dining or enjoy a glass of wine with friends. Our Japanese Chef integrates food perfectly into a unique Tokyo style and taste. Our Fish Direct From "TSUKIJI" fish market , Japan MENU

■ Otoro Sushi...180B ■ Churoto Sushi...150B ■ Seared Akami Sushi...120B ■ Roasted scallop, sweet shrimp and sea urchin with caviar in chardonnay creamsauce...480B ■ Tender chicken and mushrooms grilled in a black pepper TERIYAKI sauce...480B

Tokyo Style Japanese Restaurant -Rakuza Tokyo-

bangkok 101

264/1 Grass Thonglor ,between Thonglor 10-12 (Sukhumvit55) Wattana, BKK 10110 Tel : +662 – 714 – 9897 18:00-25:00 (Food last order 22:00) (Drink last ordersnapshots 24:00) Close : Monday 9

Snapshots

1 on 1 Since becoming executive director of the American Chamber of Commerce (better known by its jaunty acronym AMCHAM) back in 2001, Judy Benn has been at the frontline of the Thai business world, helping oil the wheels for Americans looking to set up shop here. The 600 plus U.S. companies AMCHAM represents currently invest about $35 billion in the Kingdom and employ more than 250,000 Thais. At what is clearly a difficult juncture for foreign investors – and who wouldn’t be jittery after recent events? – Tom Mintier spoke to Judy about the volatile domestic business climate, among other more trivial Bangkok related matters. The recent social and political unrest has caused serious economic problems. How much impact has there been on U.S. business interests? U.S. businesses have always believed that Thailand has strengths that give it a competitive advantage and that the economic fundamentals of the country are good. However, companies thrive on predictability, certainty and transparency and the current environment isn’t conducive to providing these. Long term, unless Thailand provides a stable government, U.S. businesses are likely to look at other countries where there is more certainty and less stress. Thailand is losing its competitive edge vis-a-vie its neighbours. Many governments issued travel advisories for tourists during the protests. How much has this hurt? For the tourism, meetings and incentive business sectors, the current problems have definitely caused pain. Additionally, many companies have postponed meetings 10

exports were up 40% from 2009 and GDP is estimated to grow 4-5 % for 2010. Although Thailand will lag behind its neighbours in GDP growth for 2010, this is the results of losing focus on the economy due to the political problems, not the global economy.

Judy Benn and advised businesspeople not to travel to Thailand until things settle down. Many companies who were considering Thailand for potential investments have put these plans on hold trying to assess what the longterm political outcome will be. What sorts of Thai industries do Americans usually enter? Thailand’s export market has continued to grow and expand. We continue to encourage companies that will be exporting, and residing in industrial estates outside of Bangkok which are free from the political problems to view Thailand as the ideal place to invest. U.S. businesses are particularly strong in the oil and petrochemical sectors, auto, electronics, financial services and hospitality sectors. The global economy has hit export economies really hard. How much damage has there been to the Thai economy? Thailand survived the global economic crisis fairly well. As we saw in the first quarter of 2010, snapshots

When might we see the light at the end of the tunnel in terms of recovery? Hopefully as soon as possible, but my crystal ball is as cloudy as everyone else’s!

OK enough doom and gloom. Where are the best places for American chow in Bangkok? My favourites are Roadhouse BBQ, Bourbon Street, Sunrise Tacos and Subway. There’s much debate about where the best burgers can be had in Bangkok. Where do you stand? I am not much of a burger fan, but I have tried Duke’s at Emporium mall and would go back. Where do you head to escape Bangkok? I enjoy Hua Hin and Pranburi. Easy drive, beautiful beaches and nature. Which are your favorite parts of town? I am a woman so I shop! JJ Market by far. Why is Thailand still an attractive place to do business? The people and culture make this an enjoyable place to do business.

bangkok 101

june calendar Every Tue-Sat: Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek Aksara Theatre, King Power Duty Free Complex, Rangnam Road | www.thaiticket major.com | B400 Traditional Thai puppetry by a skilled troupe clad in black.

Tues 8 – Wed 9: A Midsummer Night’s Dream Iron Fairies, 394 Soi Thonglor (opp. Soi 13) | 084-425-8080 | 9pm | B950

See Metrobeat ‘Theatre’

Fri 11 – Sun 13: Jim Thompson Sale 2010 BITEC, Bangna | 02749-3939 | www.jimthompson.com

See Metrobeat ‘Shopping’

Every Thursday through June: Mauro Monti

Tue 1 – Aug 30: Amazing Thailand Grand Sale 2010

Niu’s on Silom, Silom Rd. | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com

Various venues | 02250-5500 ext. 2951 | www.tourismthailand.org

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

Tue 9 – Wed 13: Thailand Tourism Festival Impact Muang Thong Thani | 02-504-5050 | www.tourismthailand. org/festival-event/grandcontent-6831.html) | free

See Metrobeat ‘Travel’ Sat 12: The Sukhothai Wedding Fair 2010

13/3 South Sathorn Road | 02-344-8888 | cateringsales@sukhothai. com10am-8pm | Pick out your cake and plus-size gown at this get-together for soonto-be-weds.

Until Jun 20: Luk Thung: The Phenomenon of Thai Country Music

Thu 24 – Sun 27: Thailand International Dog Show

Museum of Siam, Sanamchai Rd. | 02225-2777 | www.ndmi. or.th | free

Impact Muang Thong Thani | 02-504-5050 | www.impact.co.th | Adult 20 baht (free for kids & dogs)

See Metrobeat ‘Exhibitions’

See Metrobeat ‘Shopping’

Fri 4: 24 Track Loop

Sat 5: DJ Lloyd

Club Culture, Ratchadamnoen Road | www.zudrangmarecords. com | 8:30pm-3:00am | B200 (incl. 1 beer) A new, peripatetic club night “exploring the dark underbelly of machine music in all shapes and sizes.”

Q Bar, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | B950 (presale), B1,200 (door) incl. 1 drink

Wed 9 – Thurs 17: Stock Dumping Fair

Thu 10: Krafty Kuts Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | B900 Remix-led breakbeat from one of the UK’s dopest party DJs.

Impact Muang Thong Thani (Hall 7 – 8) | 02539-0883 | www.glamzene.com | free 700 booths of trendy clothes, accessories, gift and toys etc from home and abroad.

Wed 16 – 27: La Cage aux Folles Muangthai Rachadalai Theatre, Ratchada Pisek Rd. | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B500-B2,800

Thu 17 – Sun 20: The Asia International Guitar Festival

Thurs 17 – Sun 20: Matichon Healthcare

Siam City Hotel, Si Ayuthaya Road, Phayathai | 02-247-0123 | www.asiainternation alguitarfestival.com | B200-B600

See Metrobeat ‘Music’

QSNCC | 02-580-0021 ext 1605, 1606 | www.matichon.co.th | free Free health check-ups service and a wide array of quality health products on sale.

Thurs 24 – Sun 27: Commart Gen X

Wed 26 – Jul 4: Furniture Show

QSNCC | 02-642-3400 | www.commartthailand. com | free Showcasing the latest technologies and gadgets from the world’s leading bands.

2010/ Wedding Festival 2010/ Bangkok Fashion World 2010 Impact Muang Thong Thani (Hall 5 – 8) | 02731-1313 | www.worldfair.co.th | free Exactly what it says on the tin.

Unitl Jun 30: Be Skeptical

See Metrobeat ‘Theatre’

See Metrobeat ‘Shows’

bangkok 101

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

snapshots

BACC, Pathumwan intersection, opp.MBK | 02-214 6630-8 | www.bacc.or.th | free

See Metrobeat ‘Arts’

Trade Fairs Performance Live Music Shopping Festivals/Events Food & Drink exhibition Sport Nightlife

Snapshots

metro beat

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings, by Howard Richardson.

travel

shows

Both the public and travel trade reps should get some new holiday ideas from the Thailand Tourism Festival at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) from June Jun 9-13. Billed as the country’s largest travel showcase, it will include cultural shows and displays of local crafts and eco tourism, with no doubt some special deals to entice us all from home. Admission is free.

Pooch Power reigns: the organisers say they expect 200,000 visitors to this year’s Thailand International Dog Show, from June 24-27 at Impact Arena (02-504-5050). As well as choosing champions, the judges will rule over a dog fashion catwalk, surely a contradiction in terms, and there will be dog products and services for sale galore. Entrance is B20 baht (free for kids and dogs).

nightlife

music

DJ Lloyd brings sets of hip-hop, Bollywood, RnB and house to Q Bar (02-252-3274) on June 5. Lloyd, who represented India at two DMC World DJ Mixing Championships, has previously worked with Paul Van Dyk, Tall Paul and Judge Jules, and opened for Gypsy Kings, Def Leppard, and Will Smith. Tickets are B950 (presale) and B1,200 (door). Both include one drink.

The Asia International Guitar Festival at the Siam City Hotel (02-247-0123) from June 17-20 involves a bunch of master classes, concerts and competitions. The musicians include the Cuban Jorge Luis Zamora, Roman Viazovskiy (Ukraine) and Thailand’s own Ekachai Jearakul (winner of the Berlin International Guitar Competition 2008). Tickets are B200-B600. See www. asiainternationalguitarfestival.com for the full schedule.

exhibitions The Museum of Siam (02225-2777) looks at 50 years of Thai country music in an exhibition called Luk Thung: The Phenomenon of Thai Country Music, daily, except Mondays until June 20. Music and memorabilia explain the relationship between Thai folk, classical music and Western influences that spawned this popular music form around the time of the Vietnam War. Star profiles include Suraphol Sombatcharoen (‘The Thai Elvis’) and Poompuang Duanjan (‘The Madonna of Luk Thung’). Admission is free. For more information, see www.ndmi.or.th. 12

jazz Swiss pianist Mauro Monti plays from the Blue Note catalogue at Niu’s on Silom (02-266-5333) every Thursday through June. His classic quintet, including sax and trumpet, cover the likes of Herbie Hancock and Horace Silver. On Saturdays, Monti joins a quartet with Tew Tunboot (bass), Dan Phillips (guitar) and Chris Sweeney (drums), to back singer Wachirat Thoumthed in a mix of jazz standards and modern material by artists such as Nora Jones.

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bangkok 101

Food & drink

shopping The annual Amazing Thailand Grand Sale 2010 is happening in most shopping malls and department stores from June 1-August 31. It promises customers “up to 70% discounts” on items ranging from clothes and fashion accessories to kitchenware, crafts and interior decor. There are also discounts at King Power duty free shops, spas and golf courses, plus travel packages and even hospital medical check-ups. For more information contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand (02-2505500 ext. 2951). There’s an opportunity to pick up some bargains from Thailand’s most celebrated silk company at the Jim Thompson Sale 2010, which runs at BITEC (02-749-3939) from June 11-13. Throws, bags, clothes, cushions, and lots besides will be available adorned with Jim Thompson’s famous prints, created by artists such as Ou Baholyodhin. There are more details at www.jimthompson.com.

theatre The Thai language production of the French musical drama La Cage aux Folles at Muangthai Rachadalai Theatre has been rearranged to June 16-27. Tickets are B500-B2,800 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). The tiny Iron Fairies (084-425-8080; see review, right) hosts a performance of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream on June 8 and 9. It’s an atmospheric venue that the cast of just seven actors should have lots of fun in (we’re promised that both they and the director are pros). Show starts around 9pm, tickets (B950) include a glass of champagne.

art Four contemporary Thai artists, Pitiwat Somthai, Pasut Kranrattanasuit, Suparirk Kanitwaranun and Noppadol Viroonchatapun show sculpture, installation, film, and video art in a joint show called Be Skeptical until June 13 at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (02-214-6632). Daily except Monday. bangkok 101

Iron Fairies

This intriguing two-floor shophouse is a factory by day that churns out – as the name suggests – iron fairies, characters from owner Ashley Sutton’s trilogy of “dark fairy stories”. And the shadowy grotto of old sewing machines, potion jars and iron machinery, designed to resemble the foundry in the book, at night turns into a bar. Just like a fairy story. These are naughty fairies, who play tricks and swear a lot, so it’s appropriate that cocktails made with absinthe La Fée Verte (The Green Fairy) feature on the menu (B700). They play extra pranks with the much-banned liquor at monthly absinthe nights. The food menu comprises five burgers (B240B390) – decent homemade imported beef patties with assorted trimmings and wide circumference, not-toofat-to-get-in-your-mouth WHERE 394 Soi baps – plus a side dish or Thonglor (opp Soi 13), two. And that’s it. Seating 084-425-8080 OPEN is at metalwork benches 6pm-late or on low stools, with antique safes for tables. Drawings from the books are everywhere. Live old-time jazz fits perfectly – musicians appear nightly at the top of an antique spiral staircase – and, early evening, magicians wander the tables pulling coins out of thin air. Black and white movies play on the upstairs wall, which you can also watch sitting on the loo in the cubbyhole bathroom under the stairs. They appear on a tiny screen beyond an antique copper and mahogany bath that is rumoured to have once cleansed the body of Marilyn Monroe. Iron Fairies could easily have been the mere schtick of merchandise; but it bellows good taste, and no little enjoyment, too.

snapshots

Snapshots ee

history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lots of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the Sathorn/Silom

districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas and leafy public parks. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. These gradually-expanding public transpor tation networks, with their

bright, snaking trains carrying wideeyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped relieve the city’s notorious traffic congestion and pollution, but given this City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ but instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It is no surprise that The Guinness Book of Records registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

8 June 1964:

Beatles mobbed at airport

chronicle of thailand

hree of the ‘Fab Four’ Beatles arrived at Don Muang Airport at 11.05am for a short stopover and were greeted by hundreds of screaming fans. Although they had not intended to exit their plane in Bangkok, John Lennon, George Harrison and Paul McCartney were eventually persuaded to step outside briefly by airline officials. Hundreds of fans wearing t-shirts and badges reading ‘The Beatles are here – P.S. I love you’, ‘I love George’ and ‘I love Paul’ screamed with joy when the band members finally appeared at the top of the gangway. The airport’s barriers failed to constrain the mob of girls who rushed forward to get a glimpse of their heartthrobs. ‘It’s fab,’ a fan told reporters after she succeeded in kissing all three of the musicians. Ringo Starr, the other band member, was unable to make the journey due to illness. The most passionate fans were reportedly foreign pupils from the International School of Bangkok, although large numbers of Thai students also showed up. When it finally came time for The Beatles to leave, fans who just moments before had been jumping for joy were immediately reduced to tears. Overcome by the intense emotion of the brief meeting with their musical idols, they continued to weep for some time.

Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. In each issue, we serialise a news story that sheds light on this month in history. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books | B1,450 | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | www.chronicleofthailand.com bangkok 101

snapshots

Snapshots

customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king with deep reverence for the monarchy. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family.Therefore, stand quietly when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and other public places. Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 16

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting.Thais don’t usually shake hands but rather wai (a prayerlike gesture with hands clasped in front of the face).This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows respect and humility.The higher the hands are raised, the more respect is being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (coolhearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ don’t step on the threshold ■ don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ be considerate when taking photographs ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

very thai Philip Cornwel-Smith

Hi-So

Inside high society: famous families and new money

Photos by Somtop Brommanop, HiSoParty.com & Thailand Tatler magazine

Hi-so, the Thai slang for ‘high society’, extends well beyond the oldschool criteria of birth and breeding. Understated Old Money taste has been joined by nouveau riche, their trend-literate heirs and waves of wannabes, maybes and willneverbes. To be hi-so requires more than a good family, wealth, connections, qualifications and official honours. In this multi-media age the true hiso must present themselves prominently in public, in the press, and at parties. Not so different than any world city, some may say, only there’s a degree of spectacle in Bangkok that puts St Tropez in the shade. And an openness that’s uniquely accessible. This lifestyle of fabulous engagements fills the front of all Thai glossy magazines, from women’s monthlies and lifestyle bibles to the Thai version of Britain’s Tatler. Much the same faces pop up in the same hierarchical positions in the layout every month. Features often dwell on at-home interviews with hi-so, or society girls may demurely model pashminas or tiaras. With websites like www.HiSoParty.com, partygoers (and the working women readership) can coo over snaps from last night’s party online – or on their phone. Not just charity galas, couture catwalks and anniversaries attract such red carpet coverage. Every launch of a beauty cream, gadget or accessory jostles with junior hi-so in training. Number-one-sons and haughty PR girls mingle with beautiful young things of indeterminate origin: swaggering offspring of officers, try-too-hard bankers, luuk khreung (halfThais) with international school accents. Many aspire to enter Society, Thailand Tatler magazine’s annual directory of the 500 foremost faces. Many even don’t mind making Tatler’s ‘Fashion Crimes’ edition, because nothing succeeds like excess. Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt each month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic. Snap up a copy at any good book shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith bangkok 101

snapshots

say, “back of Burke.” Dan Sai is a tiny town in northeastern Loei province consisting of one main street fronted by a string of nondescript shops, a few restaurants, and a guesthouse that more resembles a garage, where for 362 days a year, even lost tourists don’t show up here. Yet the other three days of the year, Dan Sai plays host to one of Thailand’s most bizarre and colourful festivals, the wacky Phi Ta Khon (June 12-14), giving locals and visitors alike one huge opportunity to party and let down their hair before the rains come. Phi Ta Khon, which translates into either “ghosts with human eyes,” or possibly “ghosts follow villagers”, takes its origins from both Buddhist and animist rituals. On the one side, there are connections with the Buddhist Bun Phra Wet festival, a religious ceremony of the fourth lunar month in which people congregate to listen to recitations of Buddhist sermons in hopes of making merit for one’s next rebirth. Phi Ta Khon also follows Buddhist legend, reenacting the scenes whereby groups of spirits came out to greet the Buddha to be upon his return home in his final incarnation. Yet the Dan Sai folks have added the Bun Bang Fai Rocket Festival, which falls in the sixth lunar month, bangkok 101

sightseeing

to the program, a festival which is a rain and fertility rite, during which time bamboo rockets are fired into the skies in the hopes the heavens will respond in kind for the coming farming season. Additionally, befitting any good fertility festival, Dan Sai’s version features loads of young men and women whom, in addition to their colourful spirit costumes, carry wooden phalli and swords, which they use to prod and tease each other as well as bystanders at every opportunity. Throw in some mor lum Isaan country music, lots of grilled chicken and papaya salad vendors, and even more lao khao (local moonshine), 41

Sightseeing

orientation

greater bangkok Cha

Thewet & Dusit

ph r a

Ko Rattanakosin Ch

hray

Thonburi

Chinatown

Siam Square & Pratunam

Sukhumvit Chaophraya

– steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is Modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan (p.24) is

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries and have different, tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.20) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th Century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly

where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting ‘burbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked streets in fridge-cool comfort! When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along smelly Klong Saen Saeb (p.120) and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.26), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly. In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13 : Phra Athit Bkk’s young bohemians pensively sip coffee in the cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street. There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

N10

N15 :Thewet Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

d. tR ra

N9 : Tha Chang Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

Na Phra Lan Rd.

Rd. arat Mah

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

Ratchada

mnoen K

Kalayang Matri Rd.

lang Rd.

N5 : Ratchawongse Bangkok’s Chinatown! Taoist temples, mazy backstreets, mottled shophouses and no end of Sino sights, noises Rd. Muangand smells make it a must. Bamrung

Royal Grand Palace

d. ng R i Wa Tha Wat Po

Chinatown

Pak Klong Talad

Pahurat

Kl Phr ao a P Br ok id ge

N1 : Oriental The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

Millenium Hilton

Wongwian Ya

ksin R

N6 : Memorial Bridge/ Saphan Pood Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

tc ha wo n

N6 Wat Arun

N2 : Sri Phaya On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

Charoen Krung Rd.

ai Rd. Sanam Ch

N15

N13

Amulet Market

Wat Mahatat

N8 :Tha Tien Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.26) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

Ratc hada mno Sana en N m ai Rd Luan . g

N10 : Wang Lang Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.54) are all in the vicinity.

ra ge Ph id et Br o mdla So K n Pi

101

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on.The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which follows a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables see www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

bangkok 101

o Ta Cha Phra Som det

Saphan Taksin Accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to Mandarin Oriental, Pennisula and Millenium Hilton hotels. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

Penninsula

Wongwian Yai

Krung Thonburi Rd. KrungThonburi

N1 Taks

in Br

idg

e SapanTaksin

sightseeing

Sightseeing

Rattanakosin

en ms

ad Ro

isu

noe

had

Ratc

Road

Dinso

Bamrung Muang Road

Wo ra

g Road

Ti Thon

hai Ro

khon Roa

Fuang Na

Mahac

adam

Ratch

Nai R

noen

ra Tha

Na Ph

Tanao Roa

Muang Roa

t Road

oad

Atsadang Road Rachini Road

Roa

Charoen Krung Road

NORTH

Phra Phi Phit Road

a ah

Road

ai Road

Sanam Ch

hai

at T

Mah

fs b!Sjw Dibp!Qisbz

Tha Chang Pier

g Wan

d oa nR wa Sa on kh a Road N Luk Luang

Road

Bamrung

Thai

ng Ro

Rachini

Sao Ching Cha (Giant Swing)

Na Phra Lan Road

Tha Chang Pier

Tha Thien Pier

g Road

Atsada

Phrannok Pier

Tha Maharat Pier

en Klan

damno

Tha Phra Chan Pier

Ratcha

Dinso

Thonburi Railway Pier

Tanao Rd

Roa

thip

t A elcome to Rattanakosin Island: birthplace of modern ra Ph Bangkok and spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King BANGLAMPHU Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because National Kao San Ro ad Museum he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site 4 Thonburi. Rows of peeling old shophouses and glittering temple Democracy Thammasat Monument University complexes – all gently curving roofs and soaring spires – pepper Sanam this hallowed area hemmed in by a bendy stretch of the Chao Wat Luan g Thipsamai Mahathat Phraya River and man-made canals. PHRA NAKHON Tha Chang Food Market Start off at Wat Arun (p.26), also known as the Temple 3 of Dawn. Though it actually predates the Rattanakosin era, it’s Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) a cornerstone of Thai history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin then, once at the river, jump on an express boat The Grand Palace heading right, upriver (ask someone to point one out). Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross 2 Wat Po to the other side. Wat Arun, with its soaring central Khmer-style The Deck 1. Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) spire, is easy to spot. 1 Wat Po (Wat Phra Chetuphon) PAHURAT 2. Wat Arun 3. Wat Phra Kaew After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross (Temple of Dawn) 4. National Museum back to Tha Tien pier and make your way to the city’s oldest Phra Buddha Yodfa Monument temple complex, Wat Po (p.27). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles de-knotted at the famous Thai massage school. Your temple initiation over, now head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.26) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.26). Ignore the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to boggle at the imagination that could give rise to such an ethereal royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.28). Getting into this Thai culture stuff? Then exit and head north across ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.30). Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably find it is early evening. The rest of your evening is up to you – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some pad thai noodles with the backpackers on Khao San Road. Back near Wat Po, cocktail bar Amorosa, with its picture-postcard views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun, is another failsafe old city walking tour closer.

oad

ath

Tha Phra Athit Pier

Saphan Phra Pin Klao Pier

asa

isu

Khin Lom Chom Saphan

Wat Sam Phraya Pier

Whether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

route 101

Saphan Phut Pier

sightseeing

Ch ak

ka ph

Tha Thien Pier Tha Rachinee Pier

bangkok 101

ban

hin

ai-C

hab

tap

Trongsawat Rd

Yaowaphanit Rd

11 Rd Soi Yaowarat

Mit

Phadung Dao Rd

Plaeng Nam Rd

Soi Charoen Krung 16 Rd

Soi Yaowarat 6 Rd

Mungkorn Rd

Soi Yaowarat 8 Rd

Mittraphan Rd

Phlap Pla Chai Rd

Suapa Rd Soi Charoen Krung 14 Rd

at 15 Rd

Mungkorn Rd

th ut

P ha

Soi Yaowar

Ratchawong Rd

Soi W anit

Sam

phe

bangkok 101

Old market

Soi Wanit 1

Sbudibxpoh !Qjfs

Yaowarat Rd

Song Wat Rd

China Town Scala restaurant

Chaloem Buri Intersection

g un

Shangarila restaurant

Wat Kunmatay

Mai market

ara ow

Wat Bamphen

Kwang Tung Shrine

HUA LAMPHONG

i Ya

Grand China Princess Hotel

Charoen Krung

Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.27) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex. Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1 Rd). This narrow wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than Hello Kitty hairclips and schoolbags on offer now. Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonial-style warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.104) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the Hua Lamphong temple, about 20 metres on, there’s Railway Station a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. Rama IV Rd Ch If you’ve timed it well, when ar oe nK 1 ru 7 you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat ng Rd Yaowarat Rd 4 2 Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the 3 neon-lit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Information Rd will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers 1. Wat Traimit Witthayaram 2. San Chao Poy Sien shrine and slip into an appealing restaurant d Auphairat 3. Wat Thian Fah Foundation at R gW or find a table at a streetside eatery 4. bamrung Canton House Son 5. Wat Mangkorn Kamalawat Wat Sampheng like T&K Seafood to give your feet a Song Wat Rd 6. Hua Seng Hong 7. T&K Seafood well-earned rest. Kr

cHINATOWN

101

aowarat as it is known locally is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, incense-shrouded Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in those pharmacy windows. And at night Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and on your right you’ll spot Bangkok’s main, Renaissance-style train station. Head straight on from Exit 1 and cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap Thai-China Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok,

Lan

Wat Ko

Chao Phraya River sightseeing

Sightseeing Lumpini Park

route 101

he Sathorn/Silom area personifies Bangkok’s split personality. The white-collar crux of Bangkok’s business world by day, this bustling area kicks it up a gear after office hours, with a jiving scene of clubs, expat pubs, some very shady characters, and one oh-so-notorious little lane. Set the alarm and beat the sun to the punch; there’s much to be done today. Take the MRT to the Sam Yan stop. Walk towards Silom and take a venomous venture into the Snake Farm (see p.32) and watch wranglers extract poison from serpents. If you dare you can even pet a cobra or kiss a python! If you’re still alive, continue on for a nice stroll in Lumphini Park, Bangkok’s largest public open area. If it’s the weekend take a taxi into the past with former P.M. Kukrit’s Heritage House (see p.28). By now you’re probably famished, so go back down Convent Road, a tree-shaded soi peppered with Mexican, Japanese, Italian and various other foreigner-orientated eating establishments. After filling up follow

Ram

u Rd.

Expresswa y

m4 Silo

d. aR

n Café Ubuntu

Soi hlu

Si Wiang Rd.

Taks

phin

Sua

gN o

Sath

Lum n n Sukhothai Hotel Banyan Tree Hotel

n Ruen Nuad

d. rn R

n Eat Me! n Naj

Pipa

Silo

aen lad Sa

ven on

Pipat

Soi

dae

Sala

n Coyote n Molly Malone’s

sap

Lalai

ssway

n Jim Thomson n Pan Pacific Hotel

Soi

4 Soi

m So

Soi 13

n Rd.

Pramua

Rd. n Opus

Silom

Pan

Rd.

Silom Soi 19

Surasak

n Niu’s

ish on

Span

Silo

Expre

1 Rd.

Soi

m So

Silo

Rd.

ong uraw

Rd.

Krung Rd

Chaopraya River

Sam

ya Ram n a IV

iy Tan

Mahaesak

Charoen

Sarasin Rd.

Rd.

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the throngs of office workers into Soi Lalai Sup (“the soi that melts your assets”), squeezing through the chaos, hunting down bargains on clothes, gifts and other knick-knack paddywhacks. Further down Silom on Thanon Pan, you will come across Wat Mahamariamman. Referred to by locals as Wat Kaek, it is the most famous – and colourful – Hindu temple in Bangkok, incense-shrouded rituals performed here daily at noon. Right across the street is Kathmandu Gallery featuring great photo exhibits, and also Silom Village which is a nice spot to pick up some handicrafts. Just before sunset hits, head up to the top floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel and grab a clubby bar chair at the aptly titled Moon Bar (see p.85). Two hundred metres above the pavement, this bar’s main attraction is the completely unobstructed 360°

Wittay

Café Ubuntu

Silom & Sathorn

Suras

sightseeing

1. Snake Farm 2. Lumphini Park 3. Soi Convent 4. Soi Lalai Sup 5. Wat Mahamariamman 6. Lumphini National Boxing Stadium 7. Suan Lum Night Bazaar 8. Patpong

Bangkok panorama. The night is still far too young. Cab it to Lumpini National Boxing Stadium (see p.112) around the corner, which will guarantee adrenaline rushes. For something less violent, Suan Lum Night Bazaar (see p.104), a pricier but less sweaty version of Chatuchak, is just seconds away. The Joe Louis Puppet Theater (see p.54) here is great for a cultural show. There’s also a good beer garden. Time to think about wrapping the day up. If you’re a jazz-lover a class act can always be found at Niu’s on Silom, as can superlative Italian food and service. Or, if wine’s your thing, head to suave oenophile hangout Opus. If you’re looking for something more youthful and hip, the bars and clubs in Silom Soi 4 will suffice. If you’re gay, look no further than same-sex central, Silom Soi 2. And if you’re feeling frisky and don’t mind being harassed by aggressive touts, immerse yourself in the decadent not-so-underworld that is Soi Patpong. Here jaded street vendors sell cheap trinkets and knockoffs yards from grubby girly bars. Be careful around here and do not follow strangers offering you free shows. But don’t hold back, because whatever you choose to do in this part of town at this time, you’re most likely to wake up with absolutely no recollection of it.

bangkok 101

Emporium

Sukhumvit

Ital Thai

i) ama oi Ek 63 (S mvit ukhu Soi S

THONG LO

EKAMAI

adapis

vit Rd Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai)

ek Rd QUEEN SIRIKIT NATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE

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oi Th 55 (S

mvit 51

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phong)

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PHROM PHONG

Rembrandt Hotel

Thailand Tobacco Monopoly

Soi Sukh

Soi 31

Soi 33

Rasayana Retreat 49

Soi 14

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essway hon Expr

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Crêpes and Co

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Shades of Retro

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vit 21 (Asok e)

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-mitr

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Westin

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Cheap Charlie’s

PHETCHABURI

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Nest

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Benjakitti Park Siam Society Emporium J-Avenue Soi 15

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Amari Boulevard

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JW Marriott

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1. 2. 3. 4.

Benjasiri Park will remind you there’s more to life than luxury brands. Shopaholics should probe Thong Lo, staking out this unabashedly minted neighbourhood for designer clothing, jewellery, furniture and books. Or, should you be toying with matrimony, wedding garb. Hop on over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice of neon Tokyo. Once dinnertime rolls around check out “Japan Town” in Thong Lo Soi 13, where a clutch of great Japanese restaurants like Uomasa lurk. Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, nighttime is definitely the right time. Drinking, dining, dancing, debauchery – it’s all here. Perfect for a puff on a shisha pipe, Sukhumvit Soi 3 is Bangkok’s very own Little Arabia. Those looking to see how the city’s young upper crust like to par-tay should head to one of the jumping joints along Thong Lo or Coffee Beans by Dao Ekamai. Sukhumvit Soi 11 – home of nightclub veterans like Bed Supperclub and Q Bar (p.82) – meanwhile draws the international clubbers. Looking for the best of Sukhumvit’s beau monde haunts? Then head on up to Long Table (p.84): a cocktail at this 25th floor design bar, with its movers and shakers and electric panoramas, is not easily forgotten.

of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, Emporium. While you can easily get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, worldclass designers here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) on the 6th floor, which continually stages thought-provoking, and usually free, exhibitions. Afterwards, a jaunt among the modern sculptures, trim greenery and cooing pigeons of adjoining P

vit 3 (N

ana N

ua)

ike Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner, Sukhumvit Road is a futuristic thriller – a flawed, frenetic, yet often compelling urban streetscape. Hotel, condominium and office blocks smother its skyline, while down below a Who’s Who of world races moves anonymously amongst them. Along its hi-octane main stretch traffic, pollution and noise assail the senses, while down its many flanking sois calmer, more serene atmospheres unfold. Get a quick jump on the day with a morning stroll around the lake in Benjakitti Park. Located adjacent to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, which hosts world class expos weekly (see calendar p.11), it is easily accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. Next head to the Siam Society for a quick shot of culture. On Asok Road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross), it’s an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures and exhibitions. And out back is a stunning Northern Lanna teak house/ ethnological museum. After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain and off to Phrom Phong station. Here Hapa Spa will find the cultural epicentre you

PRAKANONG

Crystal Spa

sightseeing

Sightseeing

route 101 BACC

Pathumwan

Siam and Pratunam

Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride on Klong Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at ri R

Rd.

ong

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tha t Th

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Vie Hotel

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. ong Rd

1. Erawan shrine 2. Pratunam market 3. Baiyoke Tower 4. Panthip Plaza 5. Jim Thompson’s House

Grand Hyatt Erawan

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Royal Bangkok Sport Club (R.B.S.C)

Four Seasons

JW Marriott

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Intercontinental Holiday Inn

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lthough much of Thailand’s biggest shopping complex CentralWorld was burned to the ground by arsonists at the tail-end of the recent political protests, the nearby Siam Square and Pratunam areas are still Bangkok shopaholic central. From the chaos of the shop4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. And, hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the khlong (canal) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 105), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand.

Jim Thompson’s House (see p.28). Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi. Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the sinuous concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modern-art scene central. Next up is Siam Paragon. This up-scale shopping and entertainment complex houses scores of great dining options, a world-class cinema complex and an impressive array of luxury and high street fashion bands from around the world. On a tight budget? Don’t worry. Every night (except Mondays) after 9pm, the footpaths along Siam Square on Rama I Rd transform into a mini-Chatuchak Weekend Market. Bangkok teenagers and young adults alike war over cheap but trendy T-shirts, jeans, dresses, accessories, brand new (and sometimes secondhand brand named) leather goods like bags, wallets, and shoes. Choose wisely if you opt for secondhand items.

Ratchadam

Siam Paragon

Lumphini Park

Sightseeing

temples THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m² royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. Though King Bhumibol now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth seeing, and there are some state

Wat Arun

The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

rooms and halls open to visitors.These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, this forms the north-eastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. After being moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings and then taken by the Lao to Vientiane, Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and placed it at the centre of his new capital. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat

Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature examples of Thai mural art documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced. WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

101

The Giant Swing

WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site bangkok 101

for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the respected Maha Makut Buddhist University, this temple is par ticularly important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm | B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets sightseeing

is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good for-tune. วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-5pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: a Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. 28

sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

101

Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium (see below). Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Eskimo. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones.The city’s parks (see p.32) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.103), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo (p.32) is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World (p.32) is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. On a more scholarly note, there’s a cracking museum aimed at inquisitive young minds. The Children’s Discovery Museum has a science and nature theme and is handily located near to Chatuchak. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old. The Children’s Discovery Museum (map C1) Kamphaeng Petch 4 Rd, Chatuchak | 02-6157333 | www.bkkchildren museum.com | Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am- 6pm | B150 Near the Chatuchak weekend market, this interactive museum aimed at younger guests covers science, nature and the environment. It also hosts regular courses and activity camps. พิพิธภัณฑ์เด็กกรุงเทพมหานคร

Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์ ตรงข้ามสวนจตุจักร

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which bangkok 101

performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Ganesha Shrine

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-thekids discovery museum, taking in prehistoric Suvarnabhumi, the foundation of Ayutthaya and the country’s modernisation. Design company Story! Inc delivered the content and conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and turgid text with pop graphics and interactive gizmos galore. Among the many edutaining activities, highlights include dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a vibrant touch screen and firing cannonballs at Burmese war-elephants. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the polished teak floors, open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance stylings of this gorgeously 30

Museum of Siam

restored former government building, designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s best-loved resident Italian architect, Mario Tamagno.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM (map B3-4) 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 02-2337027| www.bma.go.th/bmaeng/bangrak | Sat&Sun 10am-5pm | free Bangrak is one of the most traditional districts of the city, bustling with traffic and markets. Smack in the middle of it, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here; the displays can nevertheless be surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and items used in ceremonies. The real highlight is the owner herself who is willing to give you a highly personalised tour (if you call ahead), filled with anecdotes about a city long since vanished.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก เจริญกรุง ซ.43

Bangkokian Museum

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Oddball Museums

RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL (map B3) 100 Ratchadamnoen Klong Road, next to Wat Ratchanadda | www.nitasrattanakosin.com | Tues-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | 02624-0044 | adults B200, kids B50 This brand new multimedia museum tackles a part of town we all admire but few understand – Rattanakosin island, Bangkok’s glittering, temple-studded birthplace. Once you’re done the Grand Palace, Wat Pho etc it’s a great place to expand your knowledge of this most hallowed part of the city beyond that pithy paragraph in your guidebook. Wandering its seven rooms – free of relics but rich in dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-to-fathom history, arts, communities and traditions into much clearer focus. Learn about its creation in 1782; ancient royal ceremonies; fine performing arts like lakhon nai (court drama); evolving architectural styles and much more. Also includes an observation balcony with views over the old city.

นิทรรศน์รัตนโกสินทร์ ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง

Several museums in and around Bangkok delve into Thailand’s wacky and idiosyncratic. Definitely the most macabre, the Si Quey Forensics Museum revels in pickled body parts and cadavers of serial killers. A close second, the Corrections Museum recreates the rough justice meted out to crims in the not so old days (you’ll think twice about that sly toke after a trip here). The Museum of Counterfeit Goods displays Thailand’s best forgeries; as long as you call ahead (and don’t use it as a means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong the next day), you’re welcome. On the outskirts, the weekends only House of Museums is a two-storey sprawl of retro curiosities. Finally, if you’re interested in Thai cinema, walk among recreated film sets, old 16mm cameras and waxwork figures of local cine heroes at the Thai Film Museum in Nakhom Pathom. Si Quey Forensics Museum (Official Name ‘Siriraj Medical Museum’) 2 Prannok road, Bangkoknoi | www.si.mahidol.ac.th | 02- 419-7000 ext 6363 | Mon-Sat 9am – 4pm | B40

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศริ ริ าช ถ.พรานนก

Corrections Museum 436 Bangkok Remand Prison, Mahachai Rd., Samranrat, Phra Nakhon | Mon-Fri 9am - 4pm | 02-226-1704 | free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ราชทัณฑ์ เรือนจำเก่า ใกล้กบั สวนรมณีนาถ

House of Museums 170/17 Moo 17 Soi Klong Po 2, Salathammasop Rd., Taweewattana | 089-666-2008 | http://houseofmuseums.siam.edu | Sat-Sun 10am – 5pm | B30 บ้านพิพธิ ภัณฑ์ ซ.คลองโพ 2 ศาลาธรรมสพน์ Thai Film Museum 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom| www.nfat.org | 02-482- 2013-15 | weekday: appointment only, weekend tours: 10am, noon, 3pm | free หอภาพยนตร์แห่งชาติ 94 หมู่ 3 ถ.พุทธมณฑลสาย 5

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Sightseeing

the great outdoors

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

Rama IX Park

CHATUCHAK and QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

Siam Ocean World (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’reThai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing. สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 bangkok 101

Stood rapt in front of the grand palace? Check. Got your neck clicked at Wat Po? Check. Survived the scam artists? Just about. Ok, now you’ve lost your sightseer ‘L’ plates it’s time to explore some less tourist-thronged Bangkok addresses.

what next?

1 For a cycle tour around the parts most tourists never reach, give Spice Roads (www.spiceroads.com) a shout. Alternatively, borrow a bike for free from one of 8 counters scattered around the Old City, courtesy of the Bangkok Metropolitan Association (www.bangkoktourist.com). 2 Volunteering is a great way to give back to this city we all get so much out of. Don’t know where to look? Idealistic expat initiative In Search of Sanuk (www.insearchofsanuk. com) signposts ways you can have fun helping people. 3 Did Jim Thompson’s House? Gorgeous but groaning with tourists, you say? Fortunately it’s not the only stilted teak house oasis in town. Suan Pakkard Palace offers a similarly beguiling set-up well off the tourist trail; as does M.R. Kukrit’s House (both p.28). Other teak fetishists swear by Amantee (www.amantee.com) out in the northern suburbs.

4 Just across from MBK mall, the Guggenheim-like Bangkok Art & Culture Centre lures in dandyish creative types (and the odd curious shopper) with its mixed-bag line-up of Thai contemporary and itinerant global art. Want to know where the best Thai art is at? Then pop a copy of our Bangkok Art Map into your totebag on your way out.

5 Tour company Smiling Albino (www.smilingalbino.com) offers well thought-out, and culturally-attuned, excursions in and around the capital. Definitely its most intriguing is its two-day rollick through authentic old neighbourhoods and markets reminiscent of Bangkok circa 1910.

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6 Housed in a beautifully restored old government building only five minutes stroll from Wat Po, the Museum of Siam (www.ndmi.or.th) traces the evolution of the Thai people in a funky, hands-on fashion. Touch-screen videos and interactive gizmos galore replace the 5 usual dusty relics and stress the country’s multiculturalism and modernisation. 7 Once the city is licked, time to see what marvels lurk just outside it. Popular daytrips close to home include Bangkrachao, a lush peninsula of undeveloped land just across from Bangkok’s Klong Toey district; and Ko Kret, a man-made island in the river famous for its snacking, temples and kilns churning out cheap pottery. See Daytrips for more.

bangkok 101

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Sightseeing Lop Buri

Uthai Thani

day tripping

Chai Nat Nakhon Ratchasima

Ang Thong Saraburi

Suphan Buri

It’s easy getting around in Thailand, and there are plenty of worthwhile excursions within easy reach of Bangkok; some one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent. AYUTTHAYA The capital of Siam from the 14th to 18th century, Ayutthaya was one of the richest cities in the East, until it was plundered by the Burmese in 1767 and its ruins left to nature. Today a Unesco World Heritage Site, its remnants – all Khmer-esque stupas, crumbling bricks and Buddha faces entwined in tree roots – make a wonderful daytrip. The 85km journey is best done by river. The major hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City. Many combine the trip with a visit to the Bang Pa-in Summer Palace.A former royal garden retreat, this presents a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly reflecting King Rama V’s love for all things European. Once at Ayutthaya, hop on a bike and scoot round highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. . LOPBURI Lopburi’s illustrious ruins date back over 1,000 years and can done on foot. During the Dvaravati period (6th-11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo until the Khmers took over the region during Angkor’s 10th century heyday. The Thais took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. And in the 1600s, King Narai made the city the second capital and fortified it against the Dutch navy 34

Ayutthaya

Kanchanaburi

Nakhon Pathom

Koh Kred

Pathumthani

Nakhon Nayok

Sa Kaeo

Nonthaburi Bangkok

Ratchaburi

Samut Sakhon Samut Songkhram

Samut Prakan

Chachoengsao

Chon Buri

Phetchaburi

threatening Ayutthaya. The remnants of the palace he built now serve as a public museum. The city is also littered with crumbling wats (temples) blending Khmer and Thai styles. Watch your belongings: the most famous – threeprang shrine Phra Prang Sam Yot (a prang is a spire-like vault) – is home to some mischievous macaque monkeys.

monuments and buildings. Built by the same benefactor, the smaller Erawan Museum features a towering threeheaded elephant sculpture. Inside are antiques and a stucco chapel, but most Thais come for the fantastical gardens and to pray for good luck at the esteemed shrine.-

NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120m high chedi (or stupa), the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century version. Situated around 55km west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in Thailand, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history.The other big draw is the Rose Garden, a picturesque 70-acre park featuring botanical gardens and mock-Thai village cultural shows.

KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film The Bridge on the River Kwai, Kanchanaburi town is a popular weekend getaway, offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreigners are attracted by the area’s history – namely the “Thai Burma Death Railway,” built by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The lush countryside around Kanchanaburi is home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking.

SAMUT PRAKAN Just down the road – 29km away – Samut Prakan has three big draws.The Crocodile Farm offers daily croc wrestling and elephant shows. Muang Boran (the Ancient City) is an open-air museum park featuring over 100 replicas of landmark Thai temples,

KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Home to wild elephants, deer, boar, tigers and innumerable species of birdlife, Khao Yai (2½ hour’s drive from Bangkok) is one of Thailand’s most impressive national parks. Hike through the jungle to altitudes of over 1,000m. Hire a

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guide as it’s easy to get lost – the park is over 2,000km2 in size, and local maps are not to be trusted. Fancy staying the night? There are state-run bungalows in the park and luxe resorts nearby. Wine lover? Some of Thailand’s top wineries – Chateau des Brumes, Granmonte Estate, PB Valley – are also in the vicinity. NAKHON RATCHASIMA (KORAT) Both a silk and trade hub, Nakhon Ratchasima is the country’s largest province and home to Korat, its second largest city.The moated town with city gates is rewarding; and the countryside has a surfeit of Khmer ruins left over from the Angkor period, the best being in the recently restored Phi Mai Historical Park (60km north of Korat). Pak Thong Chai (30km north of Korat) is Thailand’s leading silk village. And for horse-riding and the chance to milk cows, visit Farm Chok Chai, a working farm popular with Stetsonwearing agro-tourists. KOH KRED Highly recommended, this ickle car-free island sits on a kink in the Chao Phraya River and is home to a Mon community renowned for their ancestral red-clay pottery skills. Seriously sleepy during the week, the palm-clad place goes into commercial overdrive on weekends. Bangkok cityslickers stroll its narrow footpaths, past working pottery warehouses, old Buddhist temples and homes selling hand-finished ceramics and tasty Mon kanom (snacks). By the time they’ve gone full circle, a few hours later, they’re smitten. Take a regular express boat up the Chao Phraya River to Nonthaburi and hire a long-tailed boat (B500 approx). Alternatively, on Sundays, the Chao Phraya Express ferry offers a guided tour for B300 (www. chaophrayaboat.co.th). bangkok 101

SARABURI Though often overs hadowed by neighbouring Lopburi, this central province, 108km north of Bangkok, still packs a thrill or two. Its 1½m-long Buddha footprint makes Wat Phra Putthabhat one of the most important temples in the region. And caves, like Tham Phra Pothisat, draw crowds thanks to their beautiful stalactite formations and Buddhist bas-reliefs, as does Chet Sao Noi Waterfall. The main attraction though is definitely out in the fields – from Nov-Jan bright sunflowers blanket the land, providing vibrant photo opportunities galore. PHETCHABURI Sacred Buddhist caves, neoclassical palaces, a quirky provincial market town – there’s more to Petchaburi province than the beach resort town of Cha Am. Best savoured over a long-weekend, sights include Wat Yai, a beautiful 17th century temple complex; and the stalactite and sculpture strewn Tham Khao Luang cave. To the west is also the scandalously underrated Kaeng Krachan National Park, where camp sites, butterfly and bird watching, water rafting and a stunning reservoir fringed by undulating hills await. CHACHOENGSAO An hour’s drive to the east, Chachoengsao rarely make the travel guides but is popular with locals. Smothered along the banks of the Bang Pakong River, the town boasts the temple Wat Sothon and 100-year old market Talad Baan Mai, where vendors flog traditional delicacies from within wooden King Rama V-era shophouses. Renting a boat to go see the old teak and stilted houses that line the sightseeing

sides – and the dolphins who migrate here between Nov and Feb – is also popular. RATCHABURI Ratchaburi’s Damnoen Saduak floating market is the hokiest in the land. But “The Land of the Kings” does have other qualities: unspoilt klongs (canals), hot stream Bo Khloung, the cascading Kaew Chan waterfall, and stalagmite and stalactite caves. For artsy-boho types there’s also the Suan Silp Baan Din Arts Centre, staging performances of old Thai arts and workshops. And at Wat Khanon temple, NangYai puppetry (an evocative but dying artform where puppet silhouettes are projected onto fabric screens) survives. Performances are on Saturdays. CHON BURI When it comes to this industrialised province on the eastern seaboard, we say skip Pattaya, Thailand’s Sodom-onSea, and head for Koh Si Chang, a small fishing island a mere 40-minute/B40 ferry hop across the Gulf of Thailand from Si Racha Town. King Rama V loved it there; and after a few hours exploring its hillside temples, summer palaces and pebbly beaches, so will you. On the way home, Baen San is a local, bucket-and-spade beach; and Talad Nong Mon, in Chonburi town, offers toothsome regional snacks like khao lam (sweet sticky rice in bamboo tubes). SUPHAN BURI This is where it all went down: where the legendary King Naresuan fended off Burma and rid Thailand of foreign occupation, freeing it from the Pegu Kingdom way back in 1592. At the Don Chedi, 30km from central Suphan Buri, there is a statue erected in his honour, as well as an exhibition hall and museum. Other draws include the Thai Rice Farmer’s Museum, Bueng Chawak Aquarium (64km out of town), and ancient temples dating back almost 1,000 years.

Sightseeing

NEARBY ISLANDS/BEACHES

No time to jet down to Koh Samui or Phuket? A handful of beach resorts and islands close to Bangkok are perfect for last-minute escapes.These span the gamut from lonely beaches offering the odd reggae shack and driftwood sign, to cosmopolitan beach resorts that have adopted the ‘built it and they will come’ philosophy with mixed results. ■ PATTAYA/JOMTIEN Most famous for its seedy nightlife, Pattaya’s been trying – well, sort of – to re-establish itself as a family destination. Hundreds of hotels and eateries ensure competitive prices; and while the surfeit Koh Chang of self-enclosed resorts means it’s easy for those with kids or a sleaze intolerance to avoid the girly bars, sister beach Jomtien is still a better option. ■ KOH CHANG A large jungle-clad hilly gem that’s been found by the deluxe hotel industry. Spending the night in hammocks is impossible, but fantastic beaches are still here, some hiend touristy, some budget backpacker-y. Catch a bus from the Ekkamai bus station (approx 5 hours) or fly here with Bangkok Air via Trat (approx 2 hours). ■ KOH SAMET A retreat for hip Thai youngsters who invade the island to

FLOATING MARKETS

Amphawa

Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose. n DAMNOEN SADUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 1530 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang. 36

spend days swimming in clear waters and nights sipping Thai-whisky buckets or playing the guitar on the superclean beaches. It’s worth booking ahead on weekends and public holidays, lest you want to be a source of amusement as you trudge up and down the beach desperately looking for an overpriced room. ■ HUA HIN/CHA-AM The royal summer residence town receives hordes of Thai families and package tourists. The long beach is satisfying, and is dotted with plenty of top-notch resorts like Chiva Som, the Evason, Hyatt Regency, Hilton and more. The piers filled with seafood restaurants are more of an attraction, as is the addictive night market. Nearby Cha-am is Hua Hin’s smaller, less developed sister. Coach loads of Thai townies come here on weekends to fly kites, ride ponies and generally lark around in the ocean. ■ KO SI CHANG Located a cheap 45 minute ferry journey from Si Racha Town, in Chonburi province, scenic Koh Si Chang is seldom visited by foreign tourists. More fool them – though its more of a sightseer island than a sunbather island, it’s got picturesque lookouts, King Rama V era palaces and Chinese temples to explore.Those wanting to overnight can pick from a few cheap resorts and bungalows.

GETTING THERE By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 434-5558). n TALING CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday,Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly.

n AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season. GETTING THERE By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram.The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram.

GETTING THERE By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-424-5448 or 02424-1712). Damnoen Saduak

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ultural wonders, a hundredyear-old market, breathingtaking scenery and even some dolphins. For a short trip out of Bangkok, Chachoengsao has it all. Just about an hour’s drive from the capital, the province is a welcome change from bumpy and rattling Bangkok. Here you will find spirituality and tranquillity among temples and wildlife. Chachoengsao is also known as Pad Rew, or “eight strips” – a name derived from the fact that dried fish is sliced into eight instead of the five pieces because the fish in Chachoengsao are larger due to the province’s immense fertility. No visit is complete without taking the town symbol,Wat SothonWararam Worawiharn, housing the sacred Buddha “Laung Pho Sothon” which is believed to have blessed the province with fertility. The temple is located near the banks of the Bang Pakong River where most of the population make their residence. Another must it the metre-high Kuan Im statute, which was found floating along in the river one day long ago. Some savvy locals spotted it and rescued it from the waters and placed it inside the Sawang Satthatham Foundation. For some nostalgia, stoop by Talad Ban Mai on the river banks, also known as the 100-year-old market. All the vendors still maintain the simple lifestyle of days past, conserving the Rama V era shop houses and selling great Thai and Chinese fare.

Wat Sothorn

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featured daytrip

Chachoengsao

Talad Ban Mai

A little bit outside the central Muang district in Bang Khla is the Monument of King Taksin the Great. Constructed to commemorate his victory over the Burmese in Ayutthaya, the original pagoda was destroyed due to erosion but a replica has been put in its place. It’s also a great spot for river views. Over in Tambon Paknam you will find Baan Paknam or the ‘Palm Juice Village’. You can watch the entire process of palm juice production. Products available to taste and purchase include palm juice and jaggery cake. In the village and elsewhere, it is believed that palm flowers can help cure diabetes. This province is also great for a little bit of wildlife adventure. Rent a boat to see the sights around Chachoengsao. Head down the Bang Pakong River to see the oldest teak sightseeing

houses as well as ancient temples, for tresses and raft houses. If you have some extra time to spend in Chachoengsao and are looking for something peaceful and different, spend a night or two in one of Rainbow Arokaya’s (www.rainbowarokaya.com) wooden riverside houses, where you can take a ride on the river while dining and watching the sun go down, and experience some new wellness and health-care procedures. GETTING THERE n By Train: Trains leave regular from Hua Lamphong Station from 5:55am to 6:25pm (call 1690 or visit www.railway.co.th for more information) n By Car: Highway No.304, via Min Buri (82 Km) n By Bus: - From Mochit 2 Bus Terminal, buses leave every 30 minutes from 5:20am-6pm (call 02-936-2858 ext 311, 442 for more information) - From Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekamai), buses leave every 30 minutes from 5am-9:30pm (call 02-3941-2505 for more information)

Sightseeing

buddhist temples of thailand

Wat Suan Phlu

Sharing a lane with the Shangri-La Hotel, in the Bang Rak district near the banks of the Chao Phraya River, Wat Suan Phlu is an outstanding example of a late Ratanakosin-era temple that has changed little since its original construction. All of the buildings except the bot are built of wood, either teak or padauk (Asian rosewood).The two-storey monks quarters represent typical Ratanakosin post-colonial tropical architecture. Painted yellow with maroon window and door frames, they feature lacy ‘gingerbread’ trim under the eaves and arched ventilator panels carved in delicate floral patterns over the doors. The abbot’s quarters, the most prominent of the wooden buildings in the compound, boasts a terrace and reception room projecting out from the rectangular floor plan. In front of the structure is a solitary standing Buddha fashioned in the ‘contemplating the Bodhi tree’ pose, in which the hands are crossed in front of the body, outer robe flaring in a style more common in Laos than in Thailand. The bot makes ample use of blue-tinted glass mosaics, with a minimum of gold trim. Besides providing a glittering appearance, such mosaics are intended to drive away evil spirits, in the belief that when spirits approach closely they will be frightened away by their own reflection. The roof of the bot is also relatively unique in the proliferation of kinaree decorating its gables. A cloister wall surrounding the bot features a series of ceramic panels painted in the style of Chinese watercolours. Donated by Chinese lay supporters, the panels display a variety of mythical and natural animals. One panel, for example, depicts a pair of phoenixes, while another shows a lion, a tortoise and a hare. Although the monastery grounds were long ago cemented over, Wat Suan Phlu still has a number of old, attractive trees. Buddhist Temples of Thailand is the first book to bring together the archetypal examples of this diverse architectural form from across the country’s key regions. Well-researched text by Southeast Asian art history expert and writer Joe Cummings, and more than 200 full-colour photographs by British photojournalist Dan White, brings the temples to life, shedding light on key architectural features, regional styles, historic murals and prominent Buddha images. Each month we present a different excerpt from one of the 40 historically or architecturally significant temples featured in it. Buddhist Temples of Thailand – Marshall Cavendish Editions | B1,195 | Available at all good book shops | Hardcover, with text by Joe Cummings and photos by Dan White

sightseeing

bangkok 101

upcountry festivals

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

1 June – 31 August Blooming Krachio Flower Festival, Chaiyaphum

June 2010 Until 5 June: Sawadee. com Regatta 2010, Koh Samui

The 9th Samui International Yacht Regatta, now renamed the Sawadee. com Regatta 2010, will feature six sailing classes and a slew of related lifestyle activities. Watch the sailing action from the comfort of a spectator boat… and then party the evening away at one of many related regatta events taking place, including live jazz. Race entry forms, ticket details and an event schedule are all at www.samuiregatta.com

12 - 14 June Phi Ta Khon Festival, Loei

Participants of this three-day festival in the small town of Dan Sai, in Loei province, dress up like ghosts and monsters. They don huge masks made of carved coconut-tree trunks, topped with a wicker-work sticky-rice steamer, and they parade through town while dancing boisterously to zany northeastern rhythms. With roots in local Buddhist legend, it’s a must-see for lovers of festivals ancient, foreign and just a little bit strange. See this month’s Upcountry Escape on p.40 for more. bangkok 101

Somewhat like Japan, Thais are mad about their posies, often venturing out to admire them when they’re in season. Spanning three months, this particular flower festival celebrates the native dok krachio flower which blooms at this time in Chaiyaphum, a province about 340km northeast of Bangkok. Found in abundance in Pa Hin Ngam (Forests of Beautiful Rock) National Park, the sight of these pinkish-purple flowers – known as the Siam Tulip to many – is a wonderful sight you will want to photograph from every angle imaginable. Call the TAT Northeastern office on 044-213-666.

5 & 12 June Sudsakorn, Hua Hin

Though the arts scene in the resort town of Hua Hin is smalltime – and, let’s be honest, is always likely to be – it is on the ascend thanks to the Vic Hua Hin, a slick modern theatre complex opened by Bangkok’s Patravadi theatre group last year. Its latest production – Sudsakorn – combines Thai folk form likay with acrobatics, Latin dance and physical theatre to tell a story based on the epic poem, Phra Aphai Mani, which was written by Thailand’s most celebrated poet, Sunthorn Phu. Performances start at 7:30pm on Saturdays and tickets (B500/800/1,000) are available at www.totalreservation.com and at the Vic Hua Hin directly on 032-827-815.

13 June 5th Laguna Phuket International Marathon, 18 – 20 June Phuket Hua Hin Jazz Festival

While not in the same league as London’s or New York’s, Phuket island’s very own annual marathon is catching up with the frontrunners, thanks to its incredibly scenic route past typical Thai villages, rubber plantations, beaches and buffalo-plowed rice fields. This year, once the main marathon is on its merry way, a half marathon, 10km run, 5km family walk and a 2km kids run will also be held, with everyone finishing up at the Laguna Phuket resort for the awarding of trophies and nursing of chafed thighs. www.phuketmarathon.com. sightseeing

The beach resort town’s annual jazzhead extravaganza returns, with nimble jazz musicians from around Thailand and the world once again stopping by for three nights of balmy jazz sessions in front of thousands of Hua Hin hepcats. The lineup wasn’t available at time of print, but as in past years performances will take place in the evenings at Phonkingphet Public Park and on a spacious stretch of Hua Hin Beach next to Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa, the area’s tallest hotel. Keep an eye on www.huahinjazz2010. com for updates. 39

Sightseeing

upcountry escape Words and photos by Dave Stamboulis

Rockin’ Out at Phi Ta Khon

In front of the noodle stand I have been eating in, a man in a ghost mask wielding a huge colored phallus teasingly prods a young woman, who responds in turn by slapping him on the rump. Next to me, a bespectacled fellow with serpent tattoos on either forearm says “welcome to Thai Mardi Gras.” I’m in the Isaan village of Dan Sai, which is the Thai equivalent to Podunk, Iowa, or as the Aussies would

sightseeing

bangkok 101

say, “back of Burke.” Dan Sai is a tiny town in northeastern Loei province consisting of one main street fronted by a string of nondescript shops, a few restaurants, and a guesthouse that more resembles a garage, where for 362 days a year, even lost tourists don’t show up here. Yet the other three days of the year, Dan Sai plays host to one of Thailand’s most bizarre and colourful festivals, the wacky Phi Ta Khon (June 25-27), giving locals and visitors alike one huge opportunity to party and let down their hair before the rains come. Phi Ta Khon, which translates into either “ghosts with human eyes,” or possibly “ghosts follow villagers”, takes its origins from both Buddhist and animist rituals. On the one side, there are connections with the Buddhist Bun Phra Wet festival, a religious ceremony of the fourth lunar month in which people congregate to listen to recitations of Buddhist sermons in hopes of making merit for one’s next rebirth. Phi Ta Khon also follows Buddhist legend, reenacting the scenes whereby groups of spirits came out to greet the Buddha to be upon his return home in his final incarnation. Yet the Dan Sai folks have added the Bun Bang Fai Rocket Festival, which falls in the sixth lunar month, bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

and you have the recipe for one fun filled rump shaking weekend in vintage Thai style. Though it begins early morning with a famous monk invocation ritual before moving on to a bai sii (sacred thread) ceremony at the village shaman’s house, the first day of the festival is most memorable for the extremely boisterous parade that makes its way to the main temple in town. In the other direction, from the District Office, come hundreds of people dressed in various costumes made from rags and colorful scratches of cloth, as well as masks made from huat (sticky rice containers) with elaborate expressions and outrageous colours, along with cowbells, tin cans, and other noisemakers tied around the waist to keep the spirits at bay. Almost everyone carries a palad kid (phallus icon), which gets waved, fondled, thrust, and prodded into everyone’s 42

face, eliciting laughter, naughty jokes, and lots of flirting banter from all involved. It’s Halloween à la Isaan! The parade goes on for several days, along with traditional dancing and music, mask making clinics, and dance contests. On the second afternoon, everyone heads for Wat Phon Chai, where the dancing and merrymaking reaches a frenzied crescendo. The village shaman, Jao Por Guan, arrives

sightseeing

riding atop a bamboo rocket float borne by dozens of villagers. And the paganism reaches its wild climax, with bamboo rockets being fired into the air in the hope that the skies will open up with rain. There is also a third day at Phi Ta Khon, but it is devoted to Buddhist sermons and purifying rituals, and it is pretty quiet, because by this point, one massive hangover has fallen over Dan Sai and anyone left in it. The streets get swept, the souvenir and food stalls, which have made a mint, close down, the city folk go home, and Dan Sai returns to its former self, looking much like, well, a ghost town!

bangkok 101

Phu Kradung National Park

WHAT TO DO When Phi Ta Khon (and the debilitating moonshine hangover) is over, you’ll find that Loei province at large boasts a few points of interest to keep you in situ for a couple of days longer. Here are some highlights. n National Parks Loei’s handful of rugged national reserves typically boast undulating mountains carpeted in deciduous or evergreen forest, high-altitude plateaus and cool (for Thailand) weather. Climbing to the flat-top, 1,325 metre above sea level summit of the most famous – Phu Kradung National Park – is a rite of passage for many Thais; but unfortunately it’s closed from June to September (the rainy season) due to a high risk of flash floods. There are others open now and also worth a visit though, notably Phu Ruea National Park (38km from Dansai district, on Highway No. 203), which in addition to a 30-metre high waterfall, rock gardens and myriad caves boasts Pha Lon Nai, a famous cliff seemingly built for admiring sunrises off while a sea of morning fog swirls below you. Details on how to book a bungalow or campsite plot at any of these at www.thaiforestbooking.com. Phu Ruea National Park

n Huai Nam Man Reservoir Besides spectacular views of an evergreen forest and scenic mountains, this earth-filled reservoir with a capacity of 26 million cubic metres offers plenty of things to do – trekking, swimming, or just dining and chilling in the middle of the lake on a bamboo raft. Drive along the Loei to Phu Ruea Road from Loei city centre for 15km, then turn right at the reservoir sign and proceed for another 5km.

WHERE TO STAY n Phu Pha Nam Resort Stay in tropical teakwood rooms at an elevation of 620 metres above sea level and, when not out exploring, enjoy the swimming pool, spa and lots of recreational facilities. It’s close to Dan Sai village, home of the Phi Ta Khon festival. 252 Moo 1, Koakngam, Amphur Dan Sai, Loei 42120 | 042 078-078~9 | www.phuphanamresort.com | B2,9003,300

n Chateau de Loei Located on the slopes of Phu Ruea National Park, only about 40km from Dan Sai, Chateau de Loei is Thailand’s largest winery. Passes to tour the vineyard are available at the shop near the entrance. www.chateaudeloei.com

n Phunacome Resort A charmingly furnished resort built in a contemporary style consistent with a luxurious northeastern Thai home. Located in the midst of breathtaking lush mountain ranges with peaks often shrouded in fog, it too is located in Dan Sai district. 461 Moo 3 Ban Doen, Dan Sai, Loei 42120 | 042-892-005~6 | www.phunacomeresort.com | B4,200 -5, 800

อ่างเก็บน้ำห้วยน้ำหมานตอนบน

n Phra That Si Song Rak The most impressive of Loei’s many temples is this large Lao-style pagoda built by Laotians and Thai Kings in 1560 as a symbol of friendship between the ancient kingdoms of Ayutthaya and Si Sattana Khanabut (Vientiane). Situated on the banks of the Man River, it houses impressive relics of Lord Buddha. To get there, take Highway No. 203 and turn right to Highway No.2013 at the 66km marker, and proceed for another 17km.

พระธาตุศรีสอง bangkok 101

sightseeing

GETTING THERE The nearest hub to Dan Sai is Loei, accessible by bus from Bangkok’s northern bus station. Alternatively, fly or take the train to Udon Thani and catch the bus to Loei (3 hours) from there. From Loei, it’s a 1.5 hour bus ride to Dan Sai, with 4-5 buses to Dan Sai daily. 43

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional absorption of all things American and

Thavibu

European, many of Thailand’s freshfaced generation of artists are infatuated with the street-style, urban iconography of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, Korea and increasingly China. An indicator of the growing profile of Thai art could be in the proliferation of new commercial galleries that have opened in the last couple of years, with Bangkok gaining over a dozen new venues in different areas across the city. These include artist -run spaces such as printmaker and sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s hotbed of young conceptualists at Gallery VER. While Thailand’s ongoing political debacle has complicated ar tistic planning, the decade-plus wait for the new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opposite MBK shopping mall, is over. For news of its exhibitions, performances and the like log on to www.bacc.or.th GALLERIES The majority of contemporary art on view in Bangkok is produced by domestic practitioners, several of whom are now receiving significant international exposure, though there is ar ts

an increasing number of regional Asian artists displaying their works, at prices often cheaper than in countries like Singapore, China and Vietnam. Whether hoping to peruse some emerging local protagonist, or purchase something a bit more commercial or traditional, one thing’s for certain – prices for art in Bangkok are more realistic and reasonable than overinflated, fashionable ar t centres in America, Europe and increasingly China. You’ll soon realise that the city doesn’t have a concentrated artistic enclave; rather, there are small pockets of galleries, auction houses and antiques shops randomly dispersed throughout the city. Commercial galleries are spread across town and a little route planning is advised before embarking on a day of gallery musing. On the following page is a selection of noteworthy galleries about town. Steven Pettifor is the editor of the Bangkok Art Map (BAM!), and author of Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is available as a consultant to art buyers; stevenpettifor@hotmail.com bangkok 101

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM! is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab a copy and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

Chandramohan

art exhibitions

Abstracted Nature

Serindia Gallery OP Garden, Unit 3101, 3201, 4-6 Soi Charoen Krung 36 | 02238-6410 | Tue-Sun 11am-8pm I serindiagallery@gmail.com Having been censored and arrested for exhibiting provocative erotic art at his university in his native India, Srilamuntula Chandramohan’s studies of the human body are on display in Bangkok for the artist’s debut solo exhibition. The colourful, expressive woodblock prints of elongated torsos are based on self representation with broader analogies to sexual desire and shame. Until June 6

Akko Art Gallery 919/1 Sukhumvit Rd (btw Soi 49 & 51) | 02-259-1436 l Mon-Sat 10am-7pm | www.akkoart.com | BTS Thonglor Maintaining its connections to the Japanese art community, Akko presents abstract painter Kaz Orii’s second solo exhibition in Thailand. The 35-year-old artist assimilates both Western and Eastern aesthetics into his layered abstract compositions. Reflecting nature through Japan’s distinct seasonal cycles, Orii’s palette and surface move from warm summer hues through to icier tones that resonate with winter’s chill. Until June 12

Liberation

Wonderful Thai Friendship

100 Tonson Gallery 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd | 02-684-1527 | Thu-Sun 11am7pm | www.100tonsongallery. com | BTS Chitlom A follow on from his debut 2007 solo show, Utai Nopsiri displays six new abstract wood sculptures meticulously cleaved by hand. Despite having produced sculpture for over a decade, Utai has largely slipped under the radar, but thanks to the recommendation of one of Thailand’s best known artists, Chatchai Puipia, he is at last under the spotlight. Until June 6

All About Her

WTF Café & Gallery 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 02-662-6246 | Wed-Sun 3-10pm | www.wtfbangkok.com A creative convening point meets imbibing and dining stop, the newly opened WTF (What The F**k) café and gallery could become the new art hangout along Sukhumvit. Playing with the three-floored gallery’s acronym, the debut exhibition Wonderful Thai Friendship features an eclectic gathering of 13 established and emerging Thai and expatriate artists. Until June 30

Ardel’s Third Place Gallery The Third Place,Thonglor Soi 10 | 02-422-2092, 084772-2887, 086-890-2762 | 10am–8:30pm | www.ardelgallery.com I BTS Thonglor For her first solo exhibition, artist Bussarapong Thongchai explores her place as a young woman in Thai society. Considering herself both complicit with, as well as defiant against, the stereotypical traits associated with gender roles, Bussarapong’s whimsical caricatured style of painting flits from tenderness to surrender, to occasional protest. Until June 30

Free

For the latest scoop on Bangkok’s art scene, pick up a free copy of BAM! citywide at art galleries, cultural centres or from your hotel concierge.

EVERY MONTH

Bangkok Ar t

Map Sponsored by

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From the publishers of ar ts

www.bangkokartmap.com 45

Reflecting Bangkok Photography by Joseph Thiéry Among the many photographers working in Bangkok today, Joseph Thiéry is perhaps the most likely to attract funny looks. This young Frenchman, you see, is an abstract photographer interested in the secret mirrored perspective that reflective surfaces, both man-made and naturally occurring, give of the world. He prowls Bangkok looking for a shop window, or rearview mirror, or fresh puddle, anything that can be used as a mirror to produce curious compositions and patterns out of this well-mined urban landscape. The resulting photos have an otherworldly, through-the-looking-glass quality that makes even the most banal subject interesting. Some are abstract photography through and through, while others – like the shot of soldiers during the recent political protests, for instance – have a poignant, even photojournalistic feel. See more of his work at www.josephthiery.com

Reflecting Bangkok

Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com, www.bangkokconcerts.com

Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai|BTS Victory Monument | 02677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular new 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, bear witness to hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www. patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are world-class.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

A live puppet show might sound like it’s aimed at kids, but this one is intriguing for all. The one-hour show follows the story of the Ramakien. The large puppets are incredibly lifelike; the scenes are colourful and fun to watch – so even adults enjoy the show. Arrive early to observe the production of traditional masks.

โรงละครนาฏยศาลา หุน่ ละครเล็ก (โจหลุยส์) สวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.31), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.28), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.83).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง ar ts

bangkok 101

TCDC (Thailand

Creative & Design Centre)

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres.These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on.

cultural centres

Alliance Française (map C4)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly WHERE 6F,The Emporium good at opening your Shopping Complex, mind and eyes to Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS curious international Phrom Phong, 02-664-8448, design concepts; be it www.tcdc.co.th OPEN Vivienne Westwood’s 10:30am-9pm closed Mon fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

Japan Foundation (map D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ The Belgian Club of Thailand (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com

BACC (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th The eleven-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls and looks out towards the city’s elevated skytrain.The Guggenheim meets a mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre plans to nurture a scope of creative fields including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting 3,000sqm for hosting art. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

bangkok 101

ar ts

Arts

APEX Lido and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02-251-2861, โรงภาพยนต์ลโิ ด และสกาลา

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, stateof-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.55), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180. The best place to check screening times is on the daily-updated www.movieseer.com.

Please

Thai Cinema

stand while the king's anthem is played in respect to Thailand’s beloved monarch.

Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

cinema dine

If you don’t fancy watching a movie at the local cineplex or on your living room couch, there’s another option that falls snugly between the two. Monday is Cinema Dine night at Bed Supperclub (p.84), where staff serve Chef Cameron Stuart’s gourmet popcorn and unique Thai cocktails for ! B100 while you watch a classic or cult flick. All this while reclining on fluffy white divan beds: the perfect position for watching a movie. This month’s theme,“Food, Gotta Eat it!”, begins on June 7 with Japanese comedy Tampopo about the journey of a struggling ramen chef and truck driver for the perfect noodle recipe. On June 14 will be the screening of Diner, a movie about five young men in the 1950s who treat their beloved diner as a refuge from reality. Next up, on June 21, Queen Latifah is given three weeks to live and so heads off to Europe to eat like there’s no tomorrow in Last Holiday. Last up, 1980’s musical, comedy and horror Attack of the Killers Tomatoes will show on June 28. Films start at 9:30pm. 02-651-3537,www. bedsupperclub.com 56

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สยามสแควร์ ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Metropolis (Gold Class) Big-C Ratchadamri (opp. Central World Plaza), Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chitlom | 02-812-9999 บิก ๊ ซี ราชดำริ ตรงข้ามเซ็นทรัล

เวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-9333 เอ็มโพเรียม สุขม ุ วิท 24 SF WORLD CINEMA 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-268-8888 เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ

SF World,CentralWorld

bangkok 101

reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used. BUDDHA IN THE LANDSCAPE: A Sacred Expression of Thailand Mark Standen & John Hoskin | B 1,695 | Bangkok Books Buddhism predates both Christianity and Islam, and its prevalence in Thailand – the world’s most predominantly Buddhist country – even outdates the kingdom by over a thousand years. Notable as a religion that serves more as a philosophy of personal responsibility than supernatural dogma, any doubts that Buddhism remains the principal formative influence on Thai culture are dispelled by the fact that, on average, 170 new temples per year have been built here since the 1980s. This weighty tome pays photographic tribute to the thousands of Buddha images scattered liberally throughout Thai topography. Punctuated with insightful analysis into the history and regional diversity of Thai Buddha images, Standen’s and Hoskin’s efforts are both informative and beautiful to look at.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English s u b t i t l e s a n d DV D r e g i o n compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

A CENTURY OF THAI CINEMA Dome Sukwong & Sawasdi Suwannapak | River Books | 112pp | B500 Thai cinema is crying out for a reel-by-reel retelling, a book which does it’s history justice in the same way that Donald Ritchie, say, did with Japan’s, thus introducing it to a new global audience. The case for such a book just got stronger too, what with Thai arthouse maverick Apitchatpong Weerasethakul having just snagged the prestigious Palmes d’Or at Cannes. Unfortunately, A Century of Thai Cinema isn’t it. It adds mere wisps of text to the very little already written in English on the subject, instead bombarding the reader with over 2,500 colour reproductions of Thailand’s zany film posters, promotion photographs, magazine covers, records and other associated memorabilia. Come to it looking for scholarly insight and you’ll be disappointed. Treat it for what it is though – a picturebook – and you’ll find it to be a superficial but enjoyable pleasure, not unlike many Thai films.

THE GENTLEMEN IN THE PARLOUR Somerset Maugham | White Orchid Press | 276pp | B430 Although best known for his novels, short stories and plays, Somerset Maugham is on fine travelwriter form in this freeform account of his 1923 trip through Burma, Siam and Cambodia by steamboat, train, car and horse-cart. Favouring human stories over remote scenery, along the way he meets a hotchpotch of Eastern characters – from colonialist misfits to Burmese servants – and also finds time to ponder the nature of travel, Buddhism and metaphysics. Using elegant, enviable prose, he also compares Bangkok’s canals to London’s Oxford Street, gushes over Wat Suthat temple, pens a Siamese fairytale, and lets us in on his famous stay at The Oriental Hotel, which is sullied somewhat by a nasty bout of malaria and the manageress’s fear of him dying in one of her rooms. Pour yourself a gin fizz and enjoy.

Blissfully Yours Apichatpong Weerasethakul | 2002 | DVD B99,VCD B69 The films of Thailand’s most acclaimed director seem uniquely attuned to the decay at the heart of rapture – Blissfully Yours, Weerasethakul’s Cannes award-winning second feature, is no exception. Ants invade a romantic picnic, his characters engage in strangely disconnected sex, an Edenic reverie is interrupted by the sound of chainsaws tearing through the forest. A bittersweet contemplation of the relationships between two Thai women and an illegal Burmese refugee, the film makes politics acutely personal. Late-running credits signal a plunge into the characters’ escapist desires, which are thwarted at every turn. Gorgeously, rhapsodically sad. Try to order the French version on Weerasethakul’s production-company website at www.kickthemachine.com – the Thai DVD suffers from the censor’s snip, and some colour-coding problems. ar ts

Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby. The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community.

Sirocco

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer.You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms! Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.75). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anythingonce daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

$ under B400 $$ B400 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000 a service charge (typically

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 58

food & drinks

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meal deals

Oodles of Noodles, Pullman Bangkok King Power From June 3-14 Shanghai Chef Wan Jun Hong will demonstrate the unsung culinary skill that is noodle stretching. Working in restaurant Cuisine Unplugged’s open kitchens, he’ll show off his mastery of over 10 techniques during the international buffet that runs from 6:30pm-10pm each evening. 02-680-9999

Hot and Fresh Dim Sum, Sofitel Bangkok Silom Cantonese specialist Shanghai 38 is offering an all-you-can-eat dim sum promotion during lunchtimes (Tues-Sun); feast your face on 50 sumptuous morsels and your choice of dessert for just B588++. On weekends it costs B788+ but comes with the restaurant’s signature Peking duck. 02-2381991 ext 1362

River Dining Cruises

Mouthwatering June Specials, Marriot Resort and Spa Award-winning Pacific Rim restaurant Trader Vic’s will bolster the proven appeal of its tropical riverside setting and flavoursome steaks this month with some decent specials: Blackmore Wagyu T-bone (B750++), Canadian Lobster bazaar (B900++) and 2 for 1 cocktails every Friday night. 02-476-0022 ext 1416

Summertime Teas with Mariage Frères, The Sukhothai Bangkok Through June the Lobby Salon’s legendary chocolate buffet will serve two headline summer teas, ‘Casablanca’ and ‘Rouge Métis’, by hoity toity tea company Mariage Frères. Served every Friday to Sunday between 2pm5:30pm, it will also feature cakes inspired by the two refreshing blends. B800++ per person. 02-344-8888 Grand Pearl

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (ShangriLa) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental). Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last two to three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. Manohra

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Yum Ta Krai (spicy lemongrass salad)

thai cuisine

Did you know?

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desser ts social affair in or savoury mousses Thailand. are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared. 60

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom kha gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam nua.......spicy beef salad Gai yang..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng phet pet yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng khiao wan gai.....green curry chicken Phad kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sacred basil Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao.......................coconut juice Nam krajeab .............rosella flower juice Nam matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam tao hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha yen............................Thai iced tea with condensed milk bangkok 101

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thai sweets Kanom Thai

‘Polamai’: Thai Fruits

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

Ma Feung (star fruit)

Known as the star fruit in English for far too obvious reasons, this juicy fruit is found throughout Thailand and Southeast Asia. High in dietary fibre and low in calories, ma feungs are perfect for those looking to tighten their belts up a notch or two. They are also full of those ever-so-desirable, cancer-fighting antioxidants and heart-healthy flavonoids which will, among other things, help lower your cholesterol. They’re also a great source of cold and flu-combating Vitamin C. When ripe the fruit goes bright yellow with hints of green, while their flesh remains quite firm. Once those green hints start becoming brown blobs however, they’ve become overripe. They can be enjoyed on their own or mixed into an exotic tropical fruit salad. Try also: Coconut (Ma-Praow), Guava (Farang), Banana (Kluay), Papaya (Malakor), Mangosteen (Mong-Koot), Durian (Tu-Rian), Mango (Ma Muang), Rambutan (Ngoh), Lychee (Lyn-Chee)

The word Kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a Kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This!

Khao mao – Rarely do you think of desserts when discussing cuisine from the northeastern Isan region. This treat involves pounding some young rice and mixing with sugar and coconut.The rice is often popped and mixed with nuts, sesame seeds, and a little hint of salt, resulting in a dessert not too dissimilar from rice-crispy-treats.

Try also: Kanom Krok – Mini coconut cream hotcakes Kanom Bueng – Crispy crepes with coconut whip filling Thong yip/Thong yod/Foi Thong – Golden Egg Pinches (Yip)/Drops (Yod)/ Shreds (Foi)

Khao mao

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

treet food is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. So much so that if you took away the city’s rot khen (mobile vendor carts) it would begin to taste rather bland. Some open for lunch only; others open all night. Though common to every street, knowing which carts sell what, when and where is a skill many Bangkokians pride themselves on. Short on time? Then make for one of the following hotspots, where clusters of vendors sell good feeds for pocket-change.

ealikte

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am. Corner of Silom/Convent Road The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues. Pratunam Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce.

Thai Roast Duck

I have passed this roast duck restaurant many times lately but always neglected to stop by until just recently, when some roads around the old town were closed due to the political protests. Because my reporter friends and I were forced to go around the block, I managed to cajole them into stopping off for a taste of this dish that my family enjoys whenever in the area. They didn’t regret it. Poolsin, a 50-year-old restaurant run by a second generation Thai-Chinese family, is famous around the old town for its roasted duck, as well as its other local dishes. And on tucking into a medium-sized specimen alongside a fried noodle dish, I was reminded why. For my China-based reporter friends it was love at first bite – they weren’t expecting duck with such an extraordinarily tender texture.To render it so soft, the master of this roasted duck, who nowadays sits behind the cashier counter, says they only use the best quality ingredients to marinate and cook with. And boy, it pays off – this uncomplicated dish ranks as one my all-time favourites. Poolsin Restaurant is at 460 Constitution Road, Pranakorn District (Visudhikasat Intersection, next to Tri Tossathep Temple). Open 9am-9pm every day. Tel 02-282-2728 62

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to revellers. Sample the delicate, hand-made egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango.

food & drinks

Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark.There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door. Soi Rambutri (near Khao San Road) Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the stall in front of Swenson’s. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls. bangkok 101

restaurants

The Treehouse

THAI THE TREEHOUSE (map C3) 334 Soi Dharmasaroja, Phayathai Road | BTS Ratchathewi | 02-214-6289 | 6pm – 1am | $ The Treehouse is something rather unique for these parts: aThai restaurant set within the flower-filled courtyard of a century-old mansion turned hostel. Walk towards Hua Chang bridge from exit 1 of BTS Ratchathewi station, slink right down the small soi just before it, and you’ll hit a stunning art noveau gate, beyond which rises an elegant white greenhouse almost as old as the colonial-style building next to it. The original owner, King Rama VI’s doctor, used to grow medicinal herbs in it, but now it’s a haunt for local uni students, who mill around the L-shaped woodslat and glass structure, listening to Thai indie tunes, playing pool, being cliquey. Spare yourself their territorial dagger stares, and sit outside amidst the real prize – the courtyard – while you feast on well prepared, modestly priced gab gleam (beer snacks) and Thai dishes, followed by a bowl of the owner’s homemade rosette & brandy sorbet. Note that it’s only open in the evenings and that though the English menu is thin, the kitchen here can rustle up just about anything Thai.

HARMONIQUE (map B4) 22 Charoen Krung Soi 34 | 02-2378175 | BTS Krung Thon Buri | Mon-Sat 11am-10pm | $ This Chinese shophouse – three streets away from the Oriental Hotel – is a bit difficult to find but its superb atmosphere makes it definitely worth looking for. Ask your concierge for directions. The high ceilinged dining rooms may be too much for aesthetes; some adore the accumulate bric-a-bric; others find it down-right garish. You can always sit and unwind at the marble tables in the shady, soothing, flower-filled cour tyard, which will make you forget all about the high-stress levels of Bangkok’s urbanity. The food is Thai, and clearly influenced by the Chinese heritage of the cheerful siblings who run the place. If you’re used to the spiciness of Thai food make sure you ask for hot versions; otherwise you might find the spice level on the sweet side. The clientele is almost entirely Western who rave about the menu with photos of all the dishes. Stop by for an inexpensive lunch.

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เดอะ ทรี เฮาส์ ซ. ธรรมสโรช

bangkok 101

ONCE UPON A TIME (map C3) 32 Petchaburi Soi 17 | 02-252-8629 | www.onceuponatimeinthailand.com | 11am-11pm | $ Time travel seems possible in this little-known place, enveloped in Thainess (no matter how contrived you think it is). A little island of ancient Siam houses three impressive wooden buildings, streams, ponds, and a massive tropical garden, threatening to overtake the tightly placed, openair tables. While the inside seating is ideal for rainy days, the most popular place is the little platform harbouring khantoke, the low Northern Thai-style tables (full of character, but potentially pain inducing): reserve! The Thai food served by jovial staff is authentic, simple Thai with an Isaan slant, the real stuff, big portions priced very competitively. Bring along some time and patience – everything is prepared freshly. The genial, peaceful atmosphere is the absolute antithesis to the garishness of Panthip Plaza (the restaurant is in the soi just opposite this mall) and thus perfect for a post-shopping dinner.

Once Upon a Time

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

INTERNATIONAL PURITAN (map C2) 46/1 Soi Ari 5 | 02-357-1099 | BTS Ari | 12pm-11pm Sun-Thu, 12pm-midnight Fri & Sat | $ The buzz about this Soi Ari cakeshopcum-restaurant has been building, partly due to its fab homemade cakes, partly due to the house in which they are served: a snug little bohemia cluttered with art deco eyecandy. Groups of uni gals, office workers and cool cosmo sorts seem to be especially partial, flocking here in the early evening for a nosh-and-natter around one of the four tables flanked by old leather and velvet couches (reservations are a must if you don’t want to sit with other envious stragglers in the courtyard). Bolstering these two draws is a fusion food menu that, like everything else here, is tethered to the whims of Tokyo trained chef/ owner Khun Purinat. And, though not on a par with those generous hunks of cake, it’s not half bad. Satisfying comfort foods like baked spinach with cheese star on the chalkboard alongside assertive fusion fare (super-spicy seafood pasta) and the odd bizarre dish (strawberry crème soup). Dishes arrive slowly, in fits and bursts, especially on busy nights, but no one seems to really give a hoot – after all, the slower you graze here, the longer you can laze.

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Puritan

SOFA SO GOOD (map C2) 50 Soi Phaholyothin 7 Samsen Nai | BTS Aree | 02-617-0909 | www.thesofasogood.com | 5:30pm-midnight | $ This retro-inflected, candy-coloured bistro has the feel of a true neighbourhood spot. However, its location in hip Ari means that food and clientele are more dressed up than usual. Sit at a table if you must, but we prefer curling up on a couch for hours of noshing. The menu presents the usual hi-so mélange of Thai nibbles, Western dishes and fusion-esque pastas, along with an affordable wine

food & drinks

list. We headed for the most winceinducing dish – pasta with shrimp roe and blue cheese -- and ate every salty, funky forkful. As for the appetizers, skip the timid salads and suck down the hugely fat, juicy New Zealand mussels and lahb moo tod (fried minced-pork larb, zesty, crackly and moist all at once). Leave room for fantastic desserts, and then kick back with the friendly crowd on weekend nights for exceptionally good live entertainment – a singer crooning soft standards, or perhaps a jazz pianist in full swing.

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bangkok 101

Harvey

Il Tartufo

FRENCH

HARVEY (map E4) 129 Thong Lo Soi 9, Sukhumvit Soi 55 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-712-9911 | www.harvey.in.th | 6pm-11pm | $$$ This modernistic two-leveller is where the glamorous head for eye-opening experiences, worshipping in the wet dreams of Wallpaper* editors.The main dining space: minimal décor, forcing eaters to concentrate on the food.The smaller smoking area: a Scandinavian airport lounge of armchairs in maroon leather, three tables and an imposing turquoise chandelier shattering the lush gentlemen’s club atmosphere. Cute, discreet Copacabana jazz turns the whole thing into a striking stage. Californian cuisine – that tired 1980s moniker for all things fusion – receives a clever overhaul by the gifted chefs. Sociable staffers bring uncluttered beauties on heavy dishes; landscapes deserving a short study (before lust for what’s on the plate takes over). Turning to the wine, you’ll find a cellar full of global treasures catering to nearly all budgets. Signature cocktails induce moans of pleasure. Harvey is a revolution. It teaches Bangkok that a perfect dinner experience is possible outside of hotels.

ฮาร์วยี ์ ทองหล่อ ซ.9 ถ.สุขมุ วิท

bangkok 101

Bonjour (map E4) 1217/2 Sukhumvit Rd, between Soi 59 & 61 | 02-714-2112 | 11am-10pm | $$$$ Bonjour holds an ace in the cooking of chef Thierry Enderlin; some of the best we’ve had this year. He comes to Bangkok with impressive credentials, having worked with Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse for a decade, and brings a traditional French menu using 90% imported ingredients. They shine through in slow cooked Bresse pigeon on a bed of Savoy cabbage, back bacon and Salmi sauce; and again in pan-fried girole mushrooms with foie gras, white chicken croquet and truffle. Great quality product, perfectly executed. It’s a real stand out. Bonjour positions itself plumb in the fine dining category. The L-shaped room has heavy linen tablecloths, ornate chandeliers (although hidden behind shades) and gold display plates – the props of old style French high dining. And prices are in the same bracket. Prominent on the menu is Iranian Beluga caviar, at B29,500 for 50grams, and the cheapest meat dish is B1,750. Operating in this rarefied atmosphere, everything should be perfect. And, while the service can be a little clunky, it’s not far off: the food is superb, and that’s a rare commodity.

ร้านบองชูร์ ระหว่างสุขุมวิท ซ.59 -61

ITALIAN Il Tartufo (map E4) 64 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-259-3569 | Tue-Sun 11:30am2:30pm, 6pm-11pm | $$$ Il Tartufo (The Truffle) is one of the newer entries to the ranks of Italiantrattoria-down a-leafy-lane. It’s a tried and trusted Bangkok formula. As hinted by its name, the specialty here is seasonal truffles. It’s a spacious town house with a traditional layout: a large room divided by mock louvre doors, with a small bar at one end, and a little wooden staircase leading to a semiprivate area bookable free of charge for small parties. The homey cooking fits the setting. Truffle-themedoptions include tagliatelle with shavings of fresh truffle and chargrilled beef tenderloin with white truffle sauce, but there are also plenty of options if you need a change, including the usual pastas and pizzas. A modest all-Italian wine list starts at B750 a bottle, running to a handful of Barolos around the B12,000 mark, plus six whites and reds by the glass. They also offer bocce (petanque) out the back, and retail wines and olive oils, and truffles at cost price if you want to take some home. Lots of parking.

อิลทาร์ทูโฟ สุขุมวิท 51

Bonjour

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

VEGETARIAN

Enoteca

Enoteca (map D4) 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-258-4386 | www.enotecabangkok.com | 6pm10:30pm | $$$ A small bar, arch shapes, and exposed brickwork; arty posters, a blackboard menu, a seven-table slice of northern Italy in downtown Bangkok. Chef Stefano Merlo arrived here with a respect for tradition and a flair for theatrics following spells at the Michelin starred Le Canlandre, in Padua, and the Tokyo branch of Enoteca Pinchiorri, another Michelin stalwart, in Florence. His six-course tasting menu (around B1,400 and only available for the whole table) offers the chance to try a wide selection of dishes.The opener – a tidbit

of luxury carbonara sauce, cleverly served in a hollowed egg shell, and eaten with a teaspoon – is followed by black ink cappuccino, in which cubelets of tender slow cooked squid in its own ink are topped with creamy whipped potato. Presented in a glass jug, it resembles blackcurrant fool, with equally comforting tastes and textures. Later, there’s saffron risotto flecked with the strong dark flavours of liquorice; rich suckling pig intriguingly balanced by coffee-laced chestnut puree; and the hotcold rush of chocolate foam served on crushed ice seasoned with rum. A modest, casual restaurant, a smart menu, every dish a talking point; I haven’t had so much fun in ages.

THAM NA (map A3) 175 Samsen Road (between Soi 3 and 5), Banglamphu | 02-282-4979 | 8am9pm, closed Sunday | $ This thin, boho-elegant shophouse on Samsen Road serves grub even voracious meat-eaters can enjoy. From a shoebox-sized kitchen out back come harmonious, neatly presented dishes made mostly from organic local produce. Most areThai, some Southern European (couscous, mushroom kebabs etc), but all wear their veggiestripes with pride (no dubious mockmeat here). Two taste sensations among the exotic sounding many: the croquette-like mushroom balls in mustard sauce; the grilled abalone wrapped in dried cha-poo leaves. The thick gang kee lek mushroom curry is also a must, hitting two unusual notes – smoky and bitter. Naturally,Tham Na is very health conscious (no coconut milk, no msg, whole-grain rice etc). However, somewhat refreshingly, they don’t take their health evangelism to the usual party-pooping extremes. Prime example: while healthy drinks – from star fruit smoothies to Roselle teas – abound, they also serve booze! Free parking at the nearby temple.

ทำนา ถ.สามเสน ระหว่าง ซ.3 กับ ซ.5

เอ็นโนติก้า สุขุมวิท ซ.27

food & drinks

bangkok 101

The Great American Rib

Japanease

INDIAN

Yamagishi Tsukemen (map D4) 2nd Floor K-Village Sukhumvit 26 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-661-2931 | 11am3pm, 5-10pm | $ Much like any of the other dozen restaurants lining Bangkok’s newest community mall, K-Village, which has rapidly ascended towards the top of the city’s ladder of places to be seen, Yamagishi Tsukemen seems to feature an ever-present queue of growling stomachs waiting for a table. The restaurant is blanketed by pillows of steam emitted from the kitchen where the staff bang out bowl after bowl of Tsukemen. One of the many subgroups on Japan’s vast noodle family tree, Tsukemen consists of a cold dish of ramen egg noodles and a hot bowl of flavourful sweet broth topped with tender slices of pork and a delicious soft-boiled “onsen” egg. As is the case with many shops in Japan that choose to focus on one specialty, the menu scores poorly on the amount of choices available, though the few choices on offer rate quite highly on taste. Aside from Tsukumen, you can opt for a version with hot noodles, a rice bowl with the tender pork, gyoza dumplings and a surprisingly refreshing take on fried chicken karaage which is served with a zesty dressing.

Rang Mahal (map D4) Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 02-261-7100 ext 7532 | www.rembrandtbkk.com | daily 11:30am – 2:30pm & 6pm – 10:30 pm | $$$ Ask any Bangkokian to point you to the city’s best Indian restaurant and you’ll end up here. Occupying the hotel’s top floor, Rang Mahal offers up haute Northern Indian cuisine in heavy carpeted surroundings that somehow lose out to the panoramic wall of glass offering sweeping views over Bangkok’s skyline. A team of four top Indian chefs keep a close eye on the quality of ingredients, from homemade yoghurt and paneer cheeses to spices mixed in-house, so expect a fulfilling feast. Dishes are rich, and are served on copperware from tableside trolleys to the accompaniment of live music, both Bollywood hits and classical Indian. It’s worth calling ahead to order the near-perfect Leg of Lamb or satellite dish-sized “family nan”. The rogan josh kashmiri is a lamb curry to die for. You can pair all their curries with a nice German Riesling. Lunch sets are a good value, as is the popular Sunday brunch buffet. Don’t miss the lassies.

เควิลเลจ สุขุมวิท 26

AMERICAN The Great American Rib (map D3-4) 32 Sukhumvit Soi 36 | 02-661-3801| www.greatrib.com | 11:30am-11pm | $ Craving solid food? Thais and farang alike rave about this open-air oasis of authentic, down-home barbeque. Great American Rib Co’s San Diegobred chef churns out mountains of mouth-watering meat from a trio of smokers, along with some respectable Tex-Mex fare (another relative rarity in Bangkok). The BBQ combo platter of Marinated Pork Ribs, Pulled Pork, Chicken and Pork Pastrami Tenderloin, with home-baked Jalapeno Cornbread and a choice of sides, is plenty to feed two or three hungry souls. For starters, don’t miss the homemade potato skins and the El Paso Nachos. From juicy ribs and burgers to mac n’ cheese and original buffalo wings, the dishes here are made all the more interesting with Cuervo shots, draft Heineken and margarita pitchers at rock-bottom prices.

เกรท อเมริกัน ริบ คอมพานี สุขุมวิท ซ. 36

Yamagishi Tsukemen

bangkok 101

รร. แรมแบรนด์ สุขุมวิท ซ.18

Rang Mahal

food & drinks

me n Kin Food&Drinks

Neighbourhood Nosh: soi convent

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Eat Me

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Each month we stake out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the nitty gritty in an easily digestible, bite-size format.

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ow that the coils of barbed wire and armed soldiers that made Soi Convent resemble a warzone during the recent political protests are gone, the streetfood stalls and foreigner-orientated restaurants that line this leafy sidestreet are once again doing what they do best – filling the stomach’s of the area’s white-collar workforce, expats and tourists. Starting at the food-stall-less Sathorn Road end, Becofino (1) is a more intimate outlet of the huge Italian trattoria over on Soi Thonglor. Near it, tucked down a little cul-desac that’s also home to one of our all-time fave Thai massage joints, Ruen Nuad, is upmarket Thai Naj (2). Put on some smart digs and head here for an evening of dolled-up Thai food served on fine china in dignified surrounds. After these there’s a food lull of a hundred metres or so – the middle of Soi Convent is occupied by an upmarket international school and a

Molly Malone's

church – before you reach the vicinity of Eat Me (3), a modernist restaurantcum-art gallery where inspiring fusion food is served beneath local modern art or out on an open-air terrace. Back on Soi Convent proper the restaurants get more close-knit, and the international flavour even stronger, the further towards Silom Road you get. Three on Convent (4), on the ground floor of the Swiss Lodge hotel, dabbles (successfully) in wine-friendly Northern California cuisine made with hormonefree meat and pesticide-free veg. Molly Malone’s (5) is an expansive Irish-themed boozer that does a good line in bangers and mash, steak and kidney pies and other hearty pub stodge. Recommended is its Sunday Roast (12-7pm), during which you can hunker down on unlimited roast lamb and beef, pork loin and crackling and Yorkshire puds etc for only B399. Next door, amble into air-con Thai restaurant Bua (6) for zero interior flair but a meal that, by our measure, scores a respectable 6 out of 10 in the tangy taste department. Much less of a tourist trap is Hai Somtum (7), a bustling, no-frills Isaan (northeastern) joint with grubby white tiling and garish strip-lighting. food & drinks

Must-try dishes: the gai yang (grilled chicken), laab ped (minced duck spicy salad) and somtum (spicy papaya salad). Flanked by a branch of Japanese franchise restaurant Zen on one side, and a Starbucks that’s swell for people watching on the other, Coyote (8) is a slightly kitsch Mexican restaurant with a strong following. Bringing the punters back: the inventive tex-mex and free margaritas (Wednesdays 6-8pm and Saturdays 10-12pm) for the girls. The good restaurants are over on Soi Convent but the eating opportunities are not. Hogging most of the narrow sidewalks at this end are some trusty streetfood stalls that do a roaring trade at lunch and dinnertime. The best-loved include the khao mun gai (chicken and rice) stall in front of Molly Malone’s every lunchtime, and the ba mee kieo nam (egg noodle soup with wontons) stall beside 7-Eleven in the evenings. If there’s one Soi Convent street snack you shouldn’t leave Bangkok without trying though it’s the B10 sticks of marinated pork, or moo ping, that are grilled and bagged in front of 7-Eleven late at night. Be warned though: the skills of the chubby, semicelebrity vendor who mans it are so well known in these parts that it’s not uncommon to have to wait/drool for up to 15 minutes before you get to sink your teeth into one. Naj

bangkok 101

Baan Somtum

MOO KATA: Thai-style

buffets make mealtime merry Oliver Benjamin

Isaan Eats

Isaan food, Northeast Thailand’s unadulterated cuisine, is everywhere. Bangkok’s streets teem with rot khen (vendor carts) and no-frills restaurants serving comfort foods to the city’s huge Isaan migrant population: dishes like laab (ground-meat salad), gai yang (grilled chicken) and som tum (green papaya salad). Not that they’re the only fans. Though many draw the line at nibbling insects, every strata of Bangkok society – from homesick taxidrivers through to their Prada-clad passengers – has its fans. Indeed, many rank this sweat-raising blend of Lao and Thai cooking (which uses sticky rice, fresh vegetables, chillis, herbs and whatever creature’s within grasp) as just about the best Thai culinary creation going. Almost every sidewalk has a lip-smacking Isaan kitchen (here gastrogems spring from the grittiest of setups), but a meal at one of the following will have you vowing that your days of tart-sweet Thai food are over. n Baan Somtum 9/1 Soi Srivieng, nr Sathorn Road | BTS Surasak | 02-6303485 | 11am-10pm | $ This squat but smart townhouse serves a staggering 22 types of somtum, as well as haunting Isaan soups, at pocket-friendly prices. n Café de Laos 19 Silom Soi 19 | 02-635-2338 | 11am-2pm & 5-10pm | $$ Who said you have to forgo ambience entirely? At Café de Laos you get a posh setting and rustic Issan nosh.You’ll pay more than you would streetside, though. n Isaan Rot Det 3/5-6 Soi Rangnam | 02-246-4579 | BTS Victory Monument | $ The best northeastern fare on Rangnam (a soi renowned for it) is served at this no-frills shophouse. Explosive som tum, crisp vegetables and lots of spice-flushed local faces. n Café Chilli Ground Floor, Siam Paragon | 02-610-9877 | www.cafechilli. com | $ Zingy Isaan delights with hi-so ambitions (think grilled lamb rack with nam jim jaew dip) meet air-conditioned mall. Perfect for when a sweaty you won’t do. n Soi Polo Fried Chicken 137/1-2 Soi Polo,Th Withayu | 02-655-8489 | $ Golden-brown, succulent and blanketed in crisp-fried garlic, their gai thowd (deep fried chicken) is legendary. Also recommended: their catfish laab and tom saep soup. bangkok 101

It’s no secret that Thai people love to dine in big groups. Whereas Westerners tend to order individual plates and might offer little tastes to our friends,Thais are suppertime socialists, with dishes being passed around willy nilly, or big pots fished into by all concerned. One of the most interesting modes of communal chowing-down in Thailand is moo kata. Though it’s probably a remote descendant of Mongolian barbecue, and similar in some ways to Korean barbecue, it has evolved over the eons into something quintessentially Thai. No visitor should leave the country before engaging in one of these fun, frenzied communal cookouts, which are especially abundant in and around Bangkok. Moo kata literally means “skillet pork,” though it’s a bit of a misnomer as pork is only one of the many foodstuffs that end up in the mix. The skillet itself is a sort of dome-shaped metal pan with a trough running around its outer edge – like a derby hat for a robot. The entire thing sits upon hot coals in the centre of the table and is laden with all variety of meats and seafood. The trough is filled with hot water and rapidly becomes broth as the meat juices run down the side of the dome. Leafy green vegetables are dunked in the clear soup as well. No moo kata would be complete without a hunk of pig fat placed on top like a cholesterol cherry: it helps flavour the skillet and turns from white to black in the course of the evening. Moo kata may be the best meal (usually dinnertime only) deal on the planet at anywhere from B70 to B140 for a delicious all-you-can cook smorgasbord. n Plathong Moo Kata Co-Co Walk, Phaya Thai Rd | Ratchathewi BTS, Exit 2 | 084-354-8282 | 5pm-midnight | B99++ n 36 Moo Kata Thong 1582/1 Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 50 | On Nut BTS | 02-7427288 | 4pm-midnight | B99++ 69

Food&Drinks

Indian Host

SPANISH

Greek

Tapas Café (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-2947 | www.tapasiarestaurants. com | 11am til late | cash only | $ Come early or on an off-day to beat the crush. Set in a cute loft space with rotating art exhibitions, Tapas Café fills that desire for drinks and a chatty nosh with flair.The charming executive chef rotates his menu every few days, but here are a few plates we hope will stay – a gorgeously moist “tortilla,” the classic potato-and-onion omelette; ham croquetas so delicate it’s a miracle they stay together ; savoury little slices of Angus beef; and tender octopus that will banish the memory of nightmare rubber tentacles. Delicious sangria will get you drunk in minutes – luckily, the food isn’t so salty, often the case with traditional tapas, that you wind up quaffing too much. Keep an eye out for paella and more fusion-y innovations.

Souvlaki (map C4) (Jul 09) Silom Soi 4 Surawong, Bangrak | BTS Saladaeng MRT Silom | 02-6329967-8 | www.souvlaki.co.th | 11am – 2am | $ Standing between Silom Soi 4’s more colourful establishments stands a pillar of good food. Souvlaki brings the Greek, family-orientated approach to dining, where dishes are shared and freshness is the all-important ingredient, to Bangkok. The menu has been prepared to match the quality of the produce available in Asia with key elements, such as feta cheese, being imported directly from Europe. Instead of being a who’s who of Greek food classics, the chefs have designed a menu of dishes that can be cooked to the standards you would expect in Athens. This is refl ected in the clear and consistent tastes found in the food, with gymnastically balanced flavours that neither over-impose nor disappoint. The cosy, intimate venue is frequented by both tourists and informed locals and it is reassuring to see a large Cypriot clientele among their ranks.

ทาปาส คาเฟ่ สุขุมวิท ซ.11

Tapas Cafe

Indian Host (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 (near Grand Mercure Park Avenue Hotel) | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-1115-6 | www.indian-host.com | 11:30am –11pm | $$ This white tablecloth, glass-encased restaurant offers fine North Indian cuisine, which features milder flavours and less spice than other regional parts of the sub-continental nation. While their mixed tandoori platter and aromatic Chicken biriyani were undeniably delicious, it’s their less recognizable offerings that will truly heat up your tastebuds, like the mouth-watering “Mutton Authority”, featuring both minced and boneless lamb chunks cooked in a range of spices resulting in an invigorating and fiery dish that we guarantee will have you reaching for some naan bread to wipe your plate clean. If that’s not enough lamb for you, don’t even think about skipping the mutton kabuli raan, which the restaurant tells you with a straight face, is the best lamb dish you’ll ever have. The soft and tender shredded spiced meat that falls right off the bone makes it impossible to argue with them.

สุขมุ วิท ซ.22 ใกล้กบั รร.แกรนด์เมอเคียวร์

food & drinks

ซูฟลากี้ สีลม ซ.4

Souvlaki

bangkok 101

featured

restaurant

Triplets

WHERE Fl 6 Panjit Tower,

Sukhumvit Soi 55 (btw Sois The triplets of the restaurant name 5 and 7), 02-712-8066, BTS are owners Nuch and Nate and their Thong Lo OPEN Wed-Sun friendly poodle Barbie, who likes 6pm-10pm PRICE $$ to greet diners as they enter. Nuch and Nate, whose other business is a marketing company, have a plan: “to promote a local food movement in Thailand”. Therefore they use over 90% local produce at this cheap and cheerful Euro-style bistro. Dishes include lamb stew, using meat from Saraburi, steak lollipops – cubes of tenderloin from Nakhon Pathom, served on sticks with caramel butter sauce – and strawberry pork, with fruit from Chiang Mai. Also, Triplets has only Thai wine. There’s a pleasing informality to this long narrow room – like a student hangout – that creates a homey vibe, with an open kitchen that casts a warm glow over candlelit tables. It’s far more comfortable than the icy aircon in many restaurants. Generally, wise chefs and diners alike welcome local ingredients, and particularly in a climate of global warming. But Thailand’s expansion into unfamiliar products that have a wider international appeal is very recent, and in terms of quality it’s still advisable, for now at least, to forego beef and lamb for tastier pork and chicken.

อาคารปานจิตทาวเวอร์ ระหว่างซ.ทองหล่อ 5 และ 7

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

MEXICAN

Tida Esarn

Isan TIDA ESARN (map C3) Soi Rangnam opp. King Power Complex | BTS Victory Monument | 02-247-2234, 02-247-6226 | Mon-Fri 11:30am-10pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am-10:30pm | $ Fancy trying Northeastern Thai (Isaan) cuisine, but don’t fancy doing it at a gritty kerbside restaurant? A good bet for hygiene-conscious beginners is this open-fronted restaurant on Soi Rangnam with a beige, white-woodplank interior that’s always jostling with locals and expats despite some sluggish service. The atmosphere is not up to much, but when there’s an iceberg’d beer on your table (served

up by a waitress “pretty”) and the food (eventually) arrives, it’s hard to argue with its Isaan fixings. The gai yang (grilled chicken) is good, the larb moo ditto, and the som tum pounded into existence from a little stall that sits centre stage (say ped mak if you want it spicy as they seem to think foreigners are chilliphobic). Prices a bit steep for a place with unflattering strip lighting and farangs in short? Then decamp to the more ramshackle, but cheaper and, dare we say it, even more aroi (tasty) competition a few doors down.

Royal Kitchen

ธิดาอีสาน ซ.รางน้ำ ตรงข้ามคิงพาวเวอร์

dim-sum featured

Standing for a quarter century in arguably Bangkok’s most famous and hippest soi this old favourite has long been dishing out Chinese food for locals. Despite the trendy Thong lo locale the clientele is generally large Thai-Chinese families on weekends. The Dim Sum menu available veers toward very classic items so don’t expect anything other than the norm. WHERE 912/6 Sukhumvit 55, Service is uneven with some of the opp. soi Thonglo 25 BTS Thong wait staff wearing smiles upside Lo 02-391-9634, 02-714-8548 down, though the damage is very OPEN 11am-2pm (for dim sum), minimal with dishes averaging 5:30pm-1am PRICE $ around B45, so you can shrug it all off when the bill comes.

La Monita Taqueria (map C3) 888/26 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd | 02-650-9581 | BTS Phloen Chit |11:30 – 10pm (last kitchen orders)| $-$$ San Franciscan Billy Bautista brings a little of his home city to Bangkok with the type of Mexican diner found all over California. The five tables, bench seating and window side bar could have been knocked up in a school woodwork class; the food is served in little plastic baskets. It’s anti-chic; an eating (rather than dining) experience, where the warm orange interior sets a cosy, familial atmosphere for some really tasty food. The menu has burritos, nachos, wings and a choice of Mexi or Cali tacos – the Cali a bit fancier, with beans and guacamole – filled with fish, beef, chicken, or shrimp (one option infused with tequila). And there’s al pastor, spicy roast pork marinated in chilli and pineapple. The quesadilla – good to share – is a large grilled tortilla sandwich of melted cheese, whole beans, salsa, guacamole, sour cream and choice of meat. The guacamole is smoky and another nice touch is slightly fermented jalapenos on the side. Look too for the marketchoice daily special. Drinks are Latinstyle mojitos, beers, margaritas and caipirinha, but corkage is free if you want to take something different. Outside of Thai, finding good food at a decent price in Bangkok isn’t easy. La Monita fits the bill: a neighbourhood diner due to become a destination because of its very rarity.

อาคารมหาทุนพลาซ่า ถ.เพลินจิต

La Monita

โรยัล คิทเช่น สุขุมวิท 55 (ตรงข้าม ซ. ทองหล่อ 25)

food & drinks

bangkok 101

runching is big in Bangkok. All five-star hotels and respectable cafés do them. Some are kid-friendly, others are strictly adult.You can get tipsy at some, while others focus on music. Curing a hangover? Need to eat al fresco? We offer you a sampling of Bangkok’s best.

brunching

featured

L’Opera

brunch

After decades as one of the main cogs in Sukhumvit’s restaurant scene, L’Opera recently climbed aboard the city’s evergrowing Sunday brunch train to offer locals a chance to stuff themselves silly on one of Bangkok’s most popular cuisines. Set inside this cellar-like, intimate restaurant, a handsome spread awaits, featuring cold Italian appetizers (Caprese salad, salmon terrine, marinated vegetables), warm dishes (mussels in tomato sauce, baked eggplant, lasagna), a Parma ham station, and fresh seafood. A well-known tactic amongst savvy buffet veterans is to avoid the ready-made main Where 53 Sukhumvit 39, 02dishes sitting in those steam pans, which 258-5606, www.loperabangkok. almost always sound better than they com BTS Phrom Phong Open actually taste. That will definitely not be 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-10:30pm an issue here, as you can take your pick Price B1,100++ from a menu that includes pastas, foie gras, and meat and seafood dishes, which will be cooked à la minute and served piping hot straight from the kitchen. The finish line is tucked away in the backroom where a table of desserts and cheeses await you. With decadent treats from lemon tarts, to profiteroles, a massive chocolate cake, and tiramisu there are countless choices to satisfy your sweet tooth. But if you want to indulge your inner pyromaniac, opt for the crème brulee which the staff will singe to a sugary crisp right in front of you. Surely the dark brick walls, Italian food, and opera music in the background would feel very lacking without some vino. For just an extra B500 per person you can have a free-flow of selected Italian wines to go along with your midday feast.

เลอโอเปร่า สุขุมวิท 39

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

tea

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea

featured

Le Gourmet

If “each cup of tea represents an imaginary voyage,” tea connoisseurs are promised an odyssey to remember at Le Gourmet. The French tea salon is just metres away from the bustling market at Paragon, yet far from the madding crowds once you are ensconced in one of Le Gourmet’s comfortable chairs sipping on any of the 200 blends from the tea-growing lands of India, Japan, Ceylon, China and even South America. There’s something comforting and ohso-civilised in slowly savouring the aroma of the French-blended teas (with the guidance of totally tea-versed Porntip and Kanitta), making your choice and then waiting patiently while your tea is brewed and served, or packaged to be savoured at home later. Highly recommended, WHERE Siam Paragon because they’re so easy on the palate, are the G Fl (map C3), 02-610-7509 Fruits Rouges (a tall tumbler of iced tea… OPEN daily 10am-10pm yumm), Japanese toffee blend and Earl Grey PRICE $ smoky tea. By the cuppa, the prices (nothing is rounded off !) are easy on the pocket. Packaged, the teas range from B370 per 100gm to B2,290 for the Chine Yen Zhen. Tea for two wouldn’t be complete without a few nibbles. Here, you have a wicked choice of handmade Belgian chocolates, almond tuiles and marrons glacés, plus scrumptious cookies. Catherine Douzel was right… tea is very much a part of the art of living.

สยามพารากอน

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

■ Sukhumvit Q BAR 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-2am The ever popular Sukhumvit nightclub serves mighty tasty quesadilla, burgers, ribs, khao mun gai, beef jerky and schwarma and has a cool, al fresco terrace area perfect for enjoying them on with friends.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either. Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you. Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-391-9634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half restaurant, half art gallery with innovative Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

dishes like curried crab crêpes. Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya. Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine ■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare. ■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you’re around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.96) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.62). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Coyote on Convent Sivadon Building | 1/2 Convent Rd | 02631-2325 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Tex-Mex Fare with an endless list of margaritas.

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier.

Bug and Bee18 Silom Rd. | 02-2338118 | BTS Sala Daeng | open 24 hours | www.bugandbee.com Four storey café offers up Thai and fusion

Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Thai and International Food

bangkok 101

late-night dining

food & drinks

Sunrise Tacos

Bug and Bee

Food&Drinks

sweet treats

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

MONT NOM SOD

Fresh milk, bread and custard; that’s pretty much all they serve at this shop near the Democracy Monument. And yet it’s the busiest dessert stop in town. Honestly, it doesn’t make sense – until you’ve tried it. Mont Nom Sod’s been serving the above since 1964. During that time they’ve got it down to a fine, if disorderly, art. Walk in and you’ll find a scrum of customers, queuing impatiently behind one of five counters, waiting to be served by one of the many waitresses who don’t speak English but are well versed in the language of point and smile. Each counter has a specialty – one sells baked items, one their famous fresh milk, and so on. By far the busiest are those Where 160/1-3 Din- Sor Rd., nearest the door serving steamed bread with near Giant Swing, 02-224-1147,02little boxes of sankayaa (coconut egg custard), 224-1989 Open Sun – Thu 2pm or lightly buttered toast slathered in your – 11pm, Fri – Sat 2pm - midnight topping of choice – sankayaa, taro, chocolate Price $ sauce, peanut butter etc. What’s remarkable about all this, and explains why the seating area is heaving with Thais every evening without fail, is the softness of the fresh, inch-thick bread. And the glossy, sweet, buttery, frankly to-die-for sankayaa topping that goes so darn well with it. Wash it down with a cup of their fresh, sweet milk with ice. Local, cheap, utterly sublime, this is it: the dessert shop you’ll be raving about all holiday.

มนต์นมสด ใกล้เสาชิงช้า

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

Buffet Venues ■ TASTE Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | 6am – 11pm | Breakfast B650++, Lunch 790++, Dinner B1,100++ ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | noon-2.30pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ Panorama Restauarant Pan Pacific Bangkok | 02-632-9000 | 6:30am – 10:30am, 11:30am – 2:30pm | Breakfast 695 net, Lunch 690++ ■ No.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ Lord jim’s buffet Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ Orchid Café Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ Citi Bistro Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10pm | lunch B650net, dinner B1,300net

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

all you can eat

featured

Cuisine Unplugged

buffet

The Pullman Bangkok King Power Hotel’s Cuisine Unplugged goes to great lengths to keep its nightly all-you-can-eat fresh. And no, we’re not just talking about the sushi and salad bars. Alongside some staples that appear every night – most notably, chilled seafood, sushi and salads not to mention a carving station – a different cuisine at this ultra-swanky, marble-encased 200-seater gets star billing each night. Monday is Vietnamese night; Tuesday is Chinese night; Wednesday is Japanese night; Thursday Italian night; Friday Thai night; Saturday seafood night and Sunday BBQ buffet night. While impossible to judge in a single sitting, the Wednesday onslaught of Japanese tucker we enjoyed was plump with fresh, quality ingredients cooked by an open kitchen, headed by Executive Chef Marshall Orton, that clearly knows what to do with WHERE 8/2 Rangnam Road, them. Pounce on sabu steaks, katsu curries Ratchathewi, 02-680-9999 BTS and other dishes laid out in warming steam Victory Monument OPEN lunch pans, before moving on to teppanyaki, suki 11:30am-2:30pm, dinner 6:30pmyaki and build your own bowls of miso soup. 10:30pm PRICE normally B1,080 Expect a similar wealth of live-cooked and (B540 until September) ready-made delicacies from each respective cuisine on other nights. There’s also a lightly stacked cheeseboard and a not so lightly stacked dessert counter proffering ice creams, decadent mousses, cakes and tarts, including a pretty good bread pudding (although we were nonplussed at the lack of custard). Those partial to performance art should swing down on Friday nights, when puppeteers from the Aksara theatre next door add a touch of Thai mystique to proceedings.

รร.พูลแมน แบงคอก ซ.รางน้ำ

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

wine

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine

featured

Wine Bridge Plus

wıne bar

Undoubtedly one of the more popular watering holes in Bangkok, Wine Bridge Plus rocks every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. And the wines are not too bad, either. In fact, it boasts a better-than-average selection of new and old world wines at palatable prices. According to Eve, the young and upwardly mobile face of Wine Bridge Plus, the focus initially was wine, when the bar occupied a cosy niche on the upper floor near an arch that spans the entrance to the complex (hence the name, Wine Bridge). Cosy has given way to WHERE 99/15-16 an eclectic mix of seating around the bar and Langsuan Balcony Bld, a tiny stage where musicians belt out pop, Langsuan soi 6-7, 02-251rock, jazz and Thai pop Friday to Sunday, 2187, 02-251-7767 BTS when it’s standing-room only and the crowd Chit Lom OPEN 6pm spills out into the front courtyard. Tummytill late tempters, such as the Winebridge Chicken (tender morsels of chicken with dip), Pizza Spring Roll, and Seaweed Vermicelli with Seafood and Fried Egg (a Thai-style salad), go well with any of the liquids. Don’t pass up the Prawn Spaghetti in Spicy Basil Pesto and Crispy Bacon. Among the can’t-go-wrong wines are Australian, South African and, of course, French and Italian vintages ranging from B2,200 to a bankrupting B63,500 a bottle.

ไวน์บริดจ์ ตึกหลังสวนบัลโคนี หลังสวนซ.6-7

food & drinks

Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

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Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Cowboy (btw sois 21 & 23). And voguish but affordable amount of options – so much more than just the hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and whisky-sippin’ naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot sois of Thong A night out here can easily have you flitting between Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.95) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.94), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.84. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can. The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.86), there’s something for all. Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here. Supperclub (p.82) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes – n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque Soi where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks. 80

nightlife

bangkok 101

Nightlife

nightclubs

Bed Supperclub

Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no. Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4,Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or 82

dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping . ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 The Club (map A3) 123 Khao San Rd,Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-1010 | www.theclubkhaosan. com | B100 (including 1 drink) The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a castle on Khao San Road. The spiral staircase of the central DJ platform and sky-high windows lend a fairy-tale vibe that would make Rapunzel want to let her hair down and hang loose. Musicwise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, from psy-trance to full on, cranium-rattling electro and techno. Ladies night on Thursdays treats the crowd to live percussion, and dancers entertain on Friday and Saturday nights. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.

เดอะ คลับ ถ. ข้าวสาร nightlife

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past seven years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 80’s pop hits with house music.

เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

bangkok 101

Demo

Calypso

Cabarets DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970-1 | 8pm1am | free (except one-off parties) Is Demo a sign of clubs to come in Thonglor? Or just a blip on the slickly gentrified area’s cookie-cutter nightclub factory line? Time will tell. In the meantime, we strongly suggest you check out this ramshackle tenement building turned gritty warehouse. Not only does it look like a venue you’d find in shabby, hipster-heaving East London. It sounds like one too: instead of mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast trendy nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school. Further boosting its streetcool hip quotient, 1980s Brooklynstyle graffiti covers the brick walls and a vintage white Toyota Celica gleams in one corner. They offer a huge range of (quite expensive) beers, shots and cocktails and, though it’s only recently opened, weekends are already packed out with an international crowd.

เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ.10

808 (map D3) RCA, block C | 02-203-1043 | MRT Pra ram 9 | www.808bangkok.com | 9am-late This slick nightclub – all imposing red lighting, exposed brick and steelcladding – has been a hit with clubbers bangkok 101

ever since it landed on RCA in 2007. The reason: the consistently worldclass line-up. Grandmaster Flash, James Lavelle and Derrick May to name but a few global DJ giants, have all rocked this post-industrial warehouse, aided in no small part by the ear-drum/ body/table rattling sound-system (watch that drink dance!). Head up to the balcony for a comfy leather perch, or gyrate with the diehards on the dancefloor. Entrance prices vary depending on who is gracing the decks that night.

เอท โอ เอท อาร์ซีเอ บลอกซี

GLOW (map D3) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | | 6pm-2am This boutique club/bar/lounge challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-to-night, with deep-house and electro looming large and no hip-hop (hurrah!). Foxy coyote girls, dancing on the bar, make queuing for drinks here something of a guilty pleasure. For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool and up-todate website.

โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ.23

nightlife

MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Rd | 02-294-7381-2 | show time 7:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm) | B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ ถ.พระราม3

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ่ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

Panorama

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Balco (map B4) 5th FL River City Shopping Complex, Yota Road, Charoen Krung 30 | Si Phaya Pier | 084-928-6161 | 6pmlate, closed Mondays If coasting along the Chaophraya River on a dinner cruiser leaves you wanting, after disembarking the boat at the River City Shopping Complex, pop up to Balco Bar on its rooftop. This airy alfresco hangout offers farreaching views of all the action on this busy waterway, a good mix of friendly locals and tourists, and soothing music from bossa nova tunes to house beats as the night rolls on. Reasonably priced drinks (beer B80, cocktails B180, whiskey B1, 200) include interesting cocktail choices created by the bar’s owner. If your favorite drink is off the menu, request it and they’ll be happy to mix it for you. A good place for lovebirds and flocks of friends to sit back on the funky nest-shape chairs or couches, catch a breeze and that memorable Bangkok riverscape.

บัลโค ศูนย์การค้าริเวอร์ซิตี้ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16

Panorama (map C3) Pan Pacific Bangkok, Rama IV Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for interminably hot or drizzly nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter found in the partitioned area at the rear of the Pan Pacific’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and up over downtown – not quite breathtaking, but still very Bangkok.

รร. แพนแปซิฟิค ถ.พระราม 4

bangkok 101

Amorosa

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee.The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe.The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

รร. โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart bangkok 101

surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor nightlife

and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smartcasual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterraneanish Amorosa.The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day of temple hopping. And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant,The Deck, and 6 lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

Nightlife

hotel bars & nightclubs

Bamboo Chic

CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-255-6888 | www.cm2bkk.com | 6:30pm-2am The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s party cave par excellence still packs them in over a decade after it opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. Gone is the old karaoke complex, making room for pool tables and lounging space overlooking the big and quite 1980s looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) dancefloor. It’s mainstreamy all the way. DJs play Club 18-30-style dance-pop and bubbly live bands perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition (Simon Cowell would be impressed). Cheesy? Maybe, a bit; but still a fun (and always eye-opening) experience. International and Thai food, as well as a whopping great cocktail list that includes some made with Amaltery’s alcoholic ice-cream, is served.

รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ซ.6

Bamboo Chic (map C4) Le Meridien Bangkok 4F, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8888 | BTS Sala Daeng | www.lemeridienhotelbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Dim-tones and giant chandeliers set the tone for haute Sino-Nippon cuisine at Bamboo Chic: Le Meridien hotel’s dashing designer resto-bar. But Bangkok’s jetset have also taken a shine to what’s being served over at the arresting lime-florescent bar – innovative cocktails like the Kyoto martini: a delectable blend of dry gin, midori, dry vermouth and lemon juice, served in a fishbowl glass. Highwattage smiles and slick service rounds off this voguish venue, as apt for postwork or pre-dancefloor tipples as it is a swanky dinner. Just steel yourself for a blast of cognitive dissonance on arrival… Patpong, the neon sleazepit cum night market, is Bamboo Chic’s unscrupulous neighbour.

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | MonSat 5pm-1am, Sun noon- midnight Hotel guests and clued-up suits enjoy zesty cocktails, creative canapés and an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquillity at this classy hotel bar. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the sultry look, mood and service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for heart-to-hearts. The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a sociable spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior. Quietly solicitous lady staff clad in silk serve while a DJ from Tues to Sat spins soulful tunes.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

รร.เลอ เมอริเดียน กรุงเทพ ถ.สุรวงศ์

CM2

nightlife

bangkok 101

Club 87 Plus

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

bangkok 101

Club 87 Plus (map C3) Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-690-9087 | 6pm - 2am Bigger, sleeker and sexier, the Conrad hotel’s recently relaunched flagship nightspot has targeted its audience from the get-go. Don’t be expecting minimalist jungle or Ibiza-style foam par ties, but if you like to cut a little rug to tunes from the 80s and 90s, this joint should do just fine. The main draw here is the band, Citybeat (Tues-Sun, 10pm-2am). They know how to get a party going with their tried and tested repertoire of funked-up pop classics. DJ 90 provides the soundtrack for the daily buy-one-get-one-free Happy Hour (6-9:30pm), and takes centre stage on Monday evenings. Thursday is Ladies Night and Sunday’s Latin. There’s also a nifty new smoking lounge adjoining the venue.

โรงแรมคอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

nightlife

SPASSO (map C3) Lower lobby, Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-254-1234 | www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | noon2:30pm, 6:30pm-2am After going strong for more than a decade, the mother of all live venues still doles out fantastic Italian food and cool bands.The food is so good lunches and brunches teem with high society types.Thai execs and bubbly after-work expats turn up from 7pm onwards to tuck into simple-soundings but firstclass Italian specialties; it’s a pretty good value, especially considering this is a five-star hotel joint. Whatever you’ll try, have it with what must be Bangkok’s best sangria. Come 10pm, diners thin out when the live band starts pumping out high-energy songs which get the dance floor heaving with a mixed, grown-up crowd – weekend nights can see people queuing up to get in.

แกรนด์ไฮแอทเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Nightlife

bars BARLEY BISTRO (map C4) 4/F Food Channel, Silom Road | BTS Sala Daeng | 087-033-3919 | daily 5pm-late | www.barleybistro.com Before this multi-level resto-bar popped up on our radar, bars in gritty Silom were limited to gay haunts, girly bars and cheesy Irish pubs. No longer: Barley Bistro’s arrival means it’s now possible to have a quiet drink here without encountering cruisers, sleaze-balls or barmaids in Leprechaun hats. Hidden up some stairs at the Food Channel, an enclave of franchise-like restaurants, its one helluva slick, snazzy spot. The design is chic (brooding blacks and greys, white-on-black stencil art); the drinks funky (lychee mojitos, testtube cocktails etc); the food newfangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the clientele wholesome (Thai office workers mostly). Do check out the open-air rooftop. Though not quite worthy of our ‘Bars with a View’ section – it’s boxed in by buildings – it’s littered with cooling fans, huge bean bags and funky barley-stalk sculptures and perfect for postwork/pre-club cocktails. Live bands play in the bar most nights.

บาร์ลี่ย์บิสโทร ฟู้ดชาแนล ถ.สีลม

The Iron Fairies

THE IRON FAIRIES & CO (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor | www.theironfairies.com This recent arrival injects a healthy dose of creativity into the city’s nightlife scene and is probably the coolest bar in Bangkok right now. It’s an oddball cross between a curiositycum-antiques shop — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — and homage to the 1920s. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables impressing inebriated revellers with his slight of hand, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the cast-iron spiral staircase.The venue has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam set with a touch of the bordello. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a well-mixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the burgers, which are served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, are divine.

ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am This shabby open-air streetside joint is a real Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety island hole-inthe-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. CC’s is the kind of place where it’s easy to fall into conversation with other patrons; whether it’s because you’re sheltering from a rain shower together or end up sharing one of the few tables. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

Barley Bistro

nightlife

bangkok 101

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnamese-inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues.The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

LOLLIPOP (map A3) 1 Mahannop Soi 1, Mahannop Road, Pra Nakorn | 086-339-1390 | Tue-Sun 5pm-1am Lime green walls, fiery red couches and hippie bead curtains – this old wooden house in the old city district of Phra Nakorn looks like it has been ripped from a Tim Burton fantasy. Just like the building’s previous tenant, rock-pub Lullibar, young indie-hipster Thais flock here for the juxebox indie tunes and house bands, cheap brews and kap klaem (beer snacks). One bad thing: Lollipop is hidden deep within the relatively unknown Soi Mahannop, a roughly five-minute walk from the city’s Democracy Monument. But then again, if you’re cool enough to frequent a place like Lollipop, you’re cool enough to hang with the kids who can get you there.

โลลี่ป๊อป มหรรณพ ซ.1

bangkok 101

Lollipop

PHRANAKORN BAR (map A3) Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd. | 02-622-0282 | 6pm-1am When Khao San Road’s obnoxious bars wear thin – and they do – flee in search of this cool, multi-level boozer tucked just off Ratchadamnoen Road. It’s an old favourite of local art students, mostly for its indie/80s/90s worshipping playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views, over rickety old-city rooftops, towards the floodlit Golden Mount temple. The booze and Thai food is also cheap as chips, as is most of the modern art hanging on the second floor. Tried to find it before but failed? You wouldn’t be the first. From the Burger King end of Khao San Road, turn right onto Ratchadamnoen, right again and it’s down the first soi on your left hand-side. In the evenings there’s usually at least one vintage VW beetle parked outside.

พระนครบาร์ ซ.ดำเนินกลางใต้ ถ.ราชดำเนิน

ROLLING BAR (map A3) Wanchat Rd | 081-867-6568 | MonSat 6pm-2am A big lit up marquee sign on Wanchat Road beckons you to find out what is going on below the street line. Descend a few stairs and in a quiet corner by the water you will find Rolling Bar, a small open space filled with a mixed assortment of retro décor and various model Cadillac cars. Here, every night nightlife

you can hear familiar old folk and rock covers unplugged. The bar draws a mixed crowd all in the comfort of T-shirts and jeans and ready to throw back a couple of drinks. The menu’s got all the popular Thai favourites, but the bar offers you a little bit more. Owner Khun Sheeva has whipped up his own personal sweet rum, Sheeva Wop; a must try.

โรลลิ่งบาร์ ริมสะพานเฉลิมวันชาติ

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serveyourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Put it this way: if you’re looking for a chocolate Martini and a plate of tapas, you’re in the wrong place.Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom –and watch the night unfold.

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

Nightlife

jazz clubs THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday Diplomat Bar nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Jazzy Brunch. Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, Bamboo Bar mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ 90

nightlife

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must. รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล

bangkok 101

Niu’s on Silom

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well worth crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jaw-dropping jazz venue. Since July its dressy crowd has been soaking up that camera-grabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of Micki L Murphy. Her sultry renditions – spanning jazz to bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed. รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every bangkok 101

Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club.The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

nightlife

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club Is Bangkok’s newest and brightest jazz club location, Where you can enjoy live performances daily, which include International musicians and some of the hottest local musicians.

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club

Wine Bar & Restaurant 661 Floor 1-2 Silom Road (cnr Soi 19) Tel: 0 2266 5333-4 Daily 5pm-1am; Free valet parking reservation@niusonsilom.com www.niusonsilom.com

Nightlife

live music

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

Overtone

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do theThai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

OVERTONE (map D3) 29/70-72 RCA Zone D | 02-2030423 | www.overtone.tv | Closed Mon/Tues Overtone has what every venerable rock club needs: a wall of fame. And it’s a good one. Megadeth and Jimmy Page have both graced Overtone with their straggly-haired presence, as has pretty much every lightening fingered axe-grinder in the Kingdom. Not bad for a live music cave tucked along RCA, a club-strip that usually does a good line in brash hip-hop superclubs. Inside, bands rock out while vintage Les Paul and Fender Stratocaster guitars, presented like hallowed museum pieces in backlit wall alcoves, look on. The orange-themed décor is a little more suave than your average rock dive, but the steady line-up of hard rock acts intermingled with the odd night of jazz, indie, blues or ska one of the most intriquing in town. Check their website for the latest.

โอเวอร์โทน ถ.อาร์ซเี อโซนดี nightlife

Bangkok Rocks (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

รร.เดอะคีย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.19

Bangkok Rocks

Brown Sugar

bangkok 101

Tawandaeng

Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm-1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage, it’s a sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eyecandy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. It’s a hike, but well worth it. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s – the secret’s out!

ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์

Tawandaeng German Brewery (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | If there’s one place that slaps you round the chops and screams “you’re in Thailand!” it’s Tawandang. This humungous, barrel-shaped beer hall with decent micro-brewed beer takes its cue from Deutschland. But the live music and unchecked sanuk up to 1,600 lary revelers enjoy here each night here is something very Thai. Its laidback early on, with everyone chomping on plates of the famous deep fried pork knuckle and German sausage, among other decent Thai, Chinese and German dishes. By 10pm though, when bellies are full, the lager’s kicked in and the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam performances by the famous Fong Nam houseband and guests are at full pelt, everybody is on the feet and the place going bananas. Tipsy tourists clink glasses with every stranger in reach, while middle-aged mums shake their tooshes beside ladyboys. Great, goofy, love-for-Bangkok reaffirming fun. Reservations a must for big groups.

โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them reliving their glory years here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride it is you’ve stumbled on, while inside house bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything from Van Halen to Motorhead covers. Bands get going at 10pm weekdays, 9:30pm on weekends, as they have done for the past 22 years.

เดอะ ร๊อคผับ ถ.พญาไท

TITANIUM ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 | www.titanium-club.com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from.An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม ไอซ์บาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

nightlife areas

Hemlock

PHra athit rd

Police Station

Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of dek naew (trendy teens) and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young locals bounce along to excellent live ska. A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite, Zest [4] focuses on live Brit Rock, while Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down another alley, is a retro-cool cocktail house. More full-on, The Club [6] is a popular techno palace offering free UV glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an open-sided rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till the wee hours. For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at 1 6 3 2 rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club Burger kHao sanroad rd Khao San [10] also deserves a mention. King 5

Ekkamai/Thonglor

Funky Villa

new phetchaburi rd

Ekkamai Soi 28

Soi 20

Soi 16

Thong Lor Soi 10

Ekkamai Soi 10

Soi 1

Sukhumvit RD

Soi 21

In recent years these parallel boulevards have embraced sweeping gentrification and emerged as upmarket playgrounds for the young, studiously cool zeitgeist follower, be they celebrity, model, arty type, uni student or slick professional. Aside from their surfeit of luxury condos, boutique lifestyle emporiums, designer spas and restaurants both are studded with trendy nightspots catering to a predominantly Thai clientele. New ones pop up every few months, as if to keep hipsters on their toes and match that season’s colours. For now Muse [1], FunkyVilla [2] and Demo [3] – three giganto clubs on Thonglor Soi 10 – are all the rage. Meanwhile, scattered about are old-timers like Song Saleung [4], a recently refurbished and often heaving live music joint, and Shades of Retro [5] – a combo furniture-store café and hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd. Ekkamai’s main drag and side-streets are even better endowed party-wise. Curvaceous Curve [6] and glamorous Jet Metropolitan [7] are big, top-shelf joints offering the usual failsafe blend of live Thai music and DJ’s spinning R’n’B. As the scene stands both are big draws, though the crowds are so gleefully fickle that could change in a Bangkok minute. Track them to the cool club of the moment. Or try two that have achieved longevity: nightclub Nunglen 4 BTS Thong Lor [8] and scruffy little bar Happy Monday [9]. Pretty Soi 55 (Thong lor) young things bounce along 5 to Thai tunes in the former; 1 2 while media types (25+) 3 hobnob while enjoying low6 8 key indy-rockstar DJ sessions Soi 63 (Ekkamai) (May T from Modern Dog 7 9 etc) and slouchy sofas in the BTS Ekkamai latter. nightlife

bangkok 101

ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

road AL LO C

road

For a night of clubbing,Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music. Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] bangs out bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, slick granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [4], a red-brick warehouse with a crisp sound system and sets by global DJ gods. And opposite sits Cosmic Cafe [5], where indie types catch up with pals and nod appreciatively to live bands. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] hosts some of the best rock, reggae or blues nights in town. There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a girls-only policy. Seriously: no men, gay men, drag queens or peeping Tom’s allowed.

5 RCA road

1 2

Sukhumvit Soi 11

On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, pubs, bars and nightclubs tucked off Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with hedonist expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely.This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 10 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]: a spaceship-like club-cum-restaurant that attracts a dressy international crowd every night. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad bigger than a broom cupboard. Nest [4], a 1 breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, is a more upscale option 4 offering laid2 Bed Supperclub back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean 5 Bangkok you were after? Then sheepishly make your way 3 to the backend of the Ambassador Hotel’s basement carpark, where thumping after-hours nightclub Climax (5) lures in the good, the bad, the beautiful and the ugly till the wee hours. Soi 11

Q Bar

SUKHUMVIT road

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

featured

pub Balcony Humidor

Cigar Lounges

Queen Victoria

This mock Dickensian London boozer, with its dark-woods and London theme prints and photographs, isn’t going to win any awards for interior flair. However, it’s a good spot for a quiet pint in salubrious, family-friendly surrounds – something you’ll struggle to find otherwise in this neighbourhood: the sleazy red-light Soi Cowboy area. The spacious open-plan downstairs features a semicircular bar and faux-leather upholstered booths, chairs and stools. It’s a tad Victorian gothic; perfect for melancholic stares into the bottom of a beer glass. Upstairs, the mezzanine has a cheerier feel due to its light brown parquet fixtures, but doesn’t see much traffic other than during functions. You’ll find a range of Euro and Asian brews on tap; and elongated happy hours running from 4:30-7:30pm nightly (bottles B75, pints B90, double measures Where Sukhumvit Soi B90). No surprises with the 23, 02-661-7417 (map D3) food, either: British pub grub BTS Asok classics, like bangers and Open 9am–1am mash and toad-in-the-hole, sit alongside Thai staples. Entertainment comes from wall-to-wall widescreens showing sport, plus a singer/guitarist who pops in at 8pm on Mon, Wed and Fri. There’s also free wi-fi and copies of the Sunday papers. A tad too gloomy? A pleasant outdoors area with sun umbrellas caters to smokers and those who find the Queen Vic’s traditionalism stuffy.

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality coronas and fine figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges typically feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and stellar selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and what is billed as Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies. n Balcony Humidor & P&L Club Cigar Bar Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 n Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight n La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com n P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

ควีนวิคตอเรีย สุขุมวิท 23

Club Perdomo

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak sathorn road

Thaniya

patpong

1 Convent road

Surasak road

silom road

BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

Sukhumvit AREA PUBS

bangkok 101

soi 39

sukhumviT road

BTS Asoke

soi 22

soi 12

BTS Nana

soi 6

soi 4

sukhumviT road

soi 35

soi 11

soi 13

soi 33

soi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering city-sized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map - and prepare for sheer retail overload.

UNIQUE boutique

PANTA

For innovative Asian furniture that will funky up your home and also give you a go-green halo, Panta fills the bill. Nearly everything they flog is made from organic natural materials salvaged from Thailand’s forests, rivers and scrubland. But rubbish it ain’t. Their in-house designers are masters at turning nature’s leftovers into things experimental, chic and above all comfy. Mosey your way around either of their two packed-to-the-hilt stores and you’ll find rattan rock cabins beside noodley armchairs then probably bump your head on a treevine lampshade. All sum up Panta’s philosophy: the marriage of old Thai Where 4F Siam Discovery handicraft techniques with geometric, / 4F Siam Paragon, 02-658Wallpaper-magazine-touted designs. 0415 / 02-129-4430, www. Many pieces are made from water pantathailand.net BTS Siam hyacinth, a spongy tropical weed that Open 10am – 9pm plagues Thailand’s waterways but here is something malleable and aesthetic. Others use more durable substances like Yan Lipao (a dark fern vine native to Southern Thailand) or recycled plastic (though you can expect a heftier price tag to match). Flying a four-piece furniture set home not an option? Fortunately Panta’s nooks horde lots of smaller suitcase-friendly wares: from hemp cushions to green celadon and pliable photo frames.

สยามดิสคัฟเวอร์รี่ / สยามพารากอน

shopping

bangkok 101

stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, home-grown “stuff” that Bangkok is justly famous for. Papercut & The Pencil Sharpener

Silk/apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down.The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom bangkok 101

Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for royalty), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com

Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while youth-orientated shopping mall Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer homespun high fashions by labels like Jaspal and Greyhound.

Jewellery/gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionallymined precious stones. The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam. There are a few diamonds in the rough, though. Lambert Industries, with their friendly and reliable service, has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. n Lambert Industries (807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg 4F, Silom Rd Soi 17, 02-236-4343).

OTOP: One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP, a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living.

shopping

Shopping

Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.102). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week. Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.102); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595

Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th n Panpuri

Shopping Tips

n Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head.

n Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

n Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. 100

shopping

Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power. At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Isetan Plaza (CentralWorld) F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info n VAT: Look out for signs advertising “VAT Refund or Tourists”. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7% on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th

bangkok 101

ART AND INDUSTRY:

Eggarat Wongcharit of Crafactor

bangkok design Brian Mertens

urniture designed by Eggarat Wongcharit is about what he calls ‘nifty ideas.’ Each design for his brand Crafactor tends to have a winningly novel function, concept or look, rendered in any of a wide range of materials. The graduate of Milan’s Domus Academy has his products made on contract, working closely with specialist workshops and medium-size manufacturers. This lets Eggarat choose flexibly among materials and production methods compared to setting up his own factory. Yet production is at the heart of his Crafactor design concept: creating quality furniture that benefits from an optimal mix of craft and mechanical processes, to better compete against low-cost manufactured wares from China. It’s not enough, Eggarat says, for Thai designers to simply offer nice-looking form. More than ever, winning products have to also offer high quality and affordability. Thailand’s handmade products are often too expensive to compete overseas, and are subject to the quality limitations sometimes inherent in manual production. Eggarat’s solution is to design a product whose frame or base can be machine-made, which allows consistent quality and reduces cost. Then he finishes it with a luxurious handmade element, like a woven covering. One example is his Bouncing Betty chair, a braided water-hyacinth seat that is mounted on the inflatable inner-tube of a car tire. Cushioning can be adjusted simply by adding or releasing air. The inner tube is the chair’s low-cost, mass-produced element, while the seat on top is pure handicraft. Eggarat believes so firmly in such a combination of craft and factory production that he proclaims it in the Crafactor name. ‘When you design a chair, you have to start with an abstraction, otherwise some existing design will come to mind.’ CONTACT n www.crafactor.com Bangkok Design:Thai Ideas in Textiles and Furniture is the first book to explore Asia’s new wave in design creativity. Award-winning author Brian Mertens profiles 36 of Thailand’s top designers, showing how they translate their own culture and experiences into unique furnishings that have won international awards and museum exhibitions. Typically handcrafted from natural materials, the best contemporary Thai designs celebrate wit, warmth, sustainability and alluring form. Bangkok Design – published by Marshall Cavendish – B1,200 - hardcover, written by Brian Mertens, with photos by Robert McLeod. bangkok 101

shopping

101

Shopping

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 The Four Seasons 4 Grand Hyatt Erawan 5 Intercontinental 6 Holiday Inn 7 Conrad 8 Plaza Athenee 9 Royal Orchid Sheraton 10 The Oriental 11 The Peninsula 12 Shangri-La

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

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SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

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Phaya Thai rd

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chid Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine. Think Burberry.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

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OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel. 12

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To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Look for TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

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CE N T R A L CH I T LOM BTS Chit Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

phetburi rd

ploenchit rd

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chid Lom All-white interior of glitzy, top-class brands – expect Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

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bangkok 101

chatuchak weekend market

Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can get lost – literally.

JJ Gem

aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which zillions descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Chatuchak quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs during ‘Nam; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has somehow evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for peddling endangered species). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits - although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fullyblown, unadulterated fix.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

Chatuchak Map Rd . 1 n io ct

The Victorian Frontier town pharmacy look of essential oil company Karmakamet, with its dark wood shelves and chandeliers dangling overhead, provides an elegant atmosphere in which to sniff their nostalgically packaged smellies. Scented glass-candles, perfume diffusers and herb sachets with drawstring cloth pouches are among the best-sellers for the home; while bodily pampering includes massage oils, shower gels and soaps bars like ‘The Embrace’, a luscious orange blossom and mint blend. Helpful staff are on hand to advise if you’re having trouble selecting an aromatherapy oil to go with your new oil burner (our favourite: ‘moonlight’, a romantic blend of Indian jasmine, Sumatran ylang ylang, rose geranium, English lavender and cedarwood).They have not one but two stores at JJ.The one by the MRT station is by far the biggest and has a teashop and adorable little seating area out front. n Store 1: Section 2, Soi 3 | 02-618-7047 n Store 2: Exit no. 2 (beside MRT Kampangpetch Station) | 02-272-5281 14. Clothing, miscellaneous 15. Pets and accessories 16. Clothing, miscellaneous 17. Ceramics 18. Clothing, miscellaneous 19. Ceramics 20. Clothing, miscellaneous 21. Clothing, miscellaneous 22. Home utensils and décor, furniture 23. Clothing, miscellaneous 24. Home utensils and décor, furniture 25. Home utensils and décor, furniture 26. Antiques

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KARMAKAMET

1. Books, antiques, collectibles, food & drink 2. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 3. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 4. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 5. Second-hand clothing 6. Second-hand clothing 7. Art, food & drink 8. Handicraft, home décor and miscellaneous 9. Pets and accessories 10. Clothing, accessories, miscellaneous 11. Pets and accessories 12. Clothing, miscellaneous 13. Pets and accessories

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markets

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the “thieves market”, this smallish street-side market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique, and a seemingly random assortment of household appliances. As its nickname would suggest, ample bargains await patient, eagleeyed shoppers - though don’t expect a receipt, let alone a refund.

นครเกษม

Ratchada Night Market Fri-Sat Nights (busiest on Saturday) | parallel with RatchadapisekLadprao intersection | MRT Ratchadapisek or Ladphrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teen-thronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). So worth the schlep, but bring a torch and your bargaining skills!

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was hailed as “Venice of the East”.

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-thatbe auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s obsessive collection of modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนท์บาร์ซาร์

Thewet

เทเวศน์

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sidewalks

Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny T-shirts, wooden carvings, paintings and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the stuff on offer can be picked up in the malls and markets – but where’s the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain! Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff (frayed t-shirts, handbags, polka dot dresses etc) are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale by the city’s babyfaced entrepreneurs.

ถ.ข้าวสาร

Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am, when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here.

สีลม/พัฒน์พงษ์

bangkok 101

Silom Village

Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item.

ประตูนำ้

ถ.สุขมุ วิท

Pratunam A ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!). shopping

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Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In each new issue Bangkok 101 brings you the best of Bangkok’s new breed. Each month we uncover those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy boutique hotel banner.

Chakrabongse Villas

Even travellers who normally balk at the prospect of “lording it up” will not regret a stay in this gated riverside residence near Wat Po – the former, century-old home of HRH Prince Chakrabongse, no less.The accommodation consists of four luxe teak villas that rise within a lush mini-Shangri-La spotted with modern water sculptures, a flower-ringed swimming pool and stone pathways through tall palms, vines and flowering frangipani.The Garden Suite and Thai House both overlook the garden and his Italianstyle house, while the Riverview Where 369 Maharaj Suite (a traditional teak house from Rd, Tatien (map A3), 02Ayutthaya that has been luxuriantly 222-1290, 02-622-1900, retro-fitted) delivers on its name, thaivillas.com Price with a private wooden veranda B5,000 – B25,000+ overlooking the Chao Phraya and the gasp-inducing Temple of Dawn. The biggest and most expensive, the Chinese Suite, is a family affair resplendent in Imperial Chinoise chic, and featuring two double bedrooms and private terraces. Not feeling special enough? Try emerging into what feels like your own secret, sun-dappled garden, then taking breakfast on the elegant wooden sala (pavilion) that juts imperiously over the river. Waving, like a prince, at passing river commuters as you nibble toast here is just an ickle bit crass – but also one of the most memorable hotel ‘moments’ its possible to have here.

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accommodation

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“You don’t stay here... you live here”

1 Sathorn Soi 3, South Sathorn Road, Thungmahamek, Sathorn, Bangkok, Thailand 10120 Tel : (66) 2 343 6789 Fax : (66) 2 343 6790 visit www.marriott.com/bkkea

60 Soi Langsuan, Lumpini, Pathumwan Bangkok, 10330 Thailand Tel: (66) 2 6721234 Fax: (66) 2 6721235 Visit www.marriott.com/bkker

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.109 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

Thai-massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

signature treatment

THE PEARL SIGNATURE

Perfect for Sex and the City Samanthas and Chihuahua-carrying spa divas, The Pearl is a pearly white jewel of a day spa on Soi Ruam Rudi. Featuring Greco-Roman and Neo-Victorian motifs galore, from sparkling chaise longues to Botticellian murals and strings of fauxpearls, the casual observer walking in may think it all a bit OTT (think Mariah Carey music video set). Further investigation, though, reveals that The Pearl is no air-headed glamourpuss but an holistic onestop shop – the menu is a 15-page strong beast featuring massage, body wraps, facials, pedicures, manicures and lots more besides. The product ranges in the facial room – Decleor, WHERE The Pearl Spa 11/1 Soi Ruam Thalgo etc – almost had us demanding one there Rudi, Phloenchit Road, 02-255-2070, and then. And we were cautiously intrigued by www.thepearl-achicspa.com BTS Phloen the Ultratone, a fat-busting contraption that looks Chit OPEN Mon-Fri 10am – 9pm, Satas if it has been wheeled off the set of retroSun 9am – 9pm PRICE B2,800 futuristic 1960s sci-fi show Lost in Space. However we eventually opted for the Pearl Signature – an oily 90-min rub blending Indonesian, Chinese, Lomi Lomi and Thai schools – and didn’t regret it for one, soporific second. The delivery was superb, our sparrow-sized therapist transmitting her slight weight through palms, thumbs, forearms and elbows rather than brute kneading. Deep tissue work, rhythmic flow, smooth transitions, a dreamy after-glow. An excellent, top-end choice.

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typical SPA cost range

ANNE SÉMONIN SPA (map C4) Sofitel Silom Hotel, 4th floor | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 x1244 or 1245 | 10am-10pm | $$$ The place for a luxe facial. Personalized treatments make ample use of the French beauty line’s upscale products, which are rich with essential oils and billed as perfect for pre- or postoperative pampering. Therapists have an exceptionally gentle, practiced touch – those who like a lot of kneading may be disappointed. But the light-handed lymphatic massage works wonders on puffy, sleep-deprived skin, so we aren’t complaining. Along with an exhaustive list of facial treatments, the spa also offers massage, body treatments, and waxing. Treatment rooms are lovely and quiet and service is well-polished, but for money like this, they should be. As professional as it is pricey, this spa would appeal to a more mature and well-established clientele, just the sort who might want a little lift – of more than one kind.

รร.โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ.สีลม

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

BODY TUNE (map C4) Yada Bldg., 2nd Fl., Suriyawongse | BTS Saladaeng, MRT Silom | 02-238-4377 | 10am-midnight | $$ Appearances will deceive at this hidden gem of a massage institution set just a short stroll from the Skytrain steps. An unassuming glass door leads to a surprisingly welcoming reception area, the portal to the therapeutic journey you are about to undertake. Body Tune is a very clever concept; take the best of the luxury spa experience, dispense with the whalesong chakra fiddle-faddle, and wrap it up into a convenient, accessible package – a concept that has proven popular, since Body Tune boasts two other busy branches in Sukhumvit and Phaholyothin. With its streamlined, massage-only menu and stable of 30 therapists, you won’t find any crystals or rose petals in this joint, yet the end result is just as refreshing. Got some knots which need a little extra attention? Drop in early when the beds are free and the therapists are revved up ready to go. Remember to switch off those mobile phones!

spas

HAPA SPA (map D3) 20/4 Sukumvit Soi 3 | BTS Nana | 02-651-0966 | www.hapaspa.com | 10am-10pm | $$ Wedged between multi-story condos and weirdish hotels, Hapa’s location stands out insofar as you’d never expect a professional spa in an alley off Afro-Arab Nana. A long, glass-walled building draws in the uninitiated through its unique circular entrance and purple-tinged salon to metal boxes. Inside your own private bunker, a stylish, serene setting includes inspired mini gardens, soft purple and cream tones and beds accommodating even the longest-legged Westerner. The extensive menu features the signature Aromatherapy massage, organic body scrubs and other tastysounding body delights, plus infrared thermal sauna, all executed by cheery, competent therapists. The all-natural house products are for sale, just as is a wide selection of organic teas and healthy drinks. Service, atmosphere and treatments are all five-star, the prices are budget, especially when you inquire about ever-changing promotions or decide to go for a package. A favourite.

ฮาป้าสปา สุขุมวิท ซ.3

บอดี้ทูนสาขาสีลม ถ.สุริยวงศ์

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H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-the-art equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

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ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified health & wellness

physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.

เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

Amruth Wellness Center (mapE4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient at this leafy garden townhouse gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a drop-in, dropout treatment, a yoga sesh or to embark on a life-changing panchakarma package. Stocked with medicines imported from the Subcontinent, holistic highlights include a hanging massage and the head oil-dribbling odyssey that is a shiro dhara.

อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8

BANGKOK MEDIPLEX (map E4) 2/70 Sukhumvit 42, Phrakanong | BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-5555 | www.bangkokmediplex.com | 9am – 8pm Visible from the Ekkamai Skytrain Station, this gleaming steel and glass fronted lifestyle mall comprises 35 leading healthcare centres and trendy medi-lifestyle stores. There’s a clinic offering live cell therapy (a treatment to repair weak cells), a traditional Chinese medicine centre, a chiropractic centre, top notch eye-care and Thailand’s first organic supermarket. Ample parking.

แบงคอก เมดิเพลกซ์ สุขมุ วิท 42

bangkok 101

edical tourism is huge business in Thailand; a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of others – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international trade. The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other. When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls. Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad, once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your private room, they have their own immigration department and

bangkok 101

a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your trip. You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications? Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul? And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa? These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment.

medical tourism Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International

33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com

FEATURED medical treatment

Check- Ups On The Cheap

Has it been donkey’s years since your last check-up? Can’t get an appointment with your doctor before 2020? Never fear – you’ve landed in a burgeoning medical tourism destination. All hospitals catering to foreign patients offer affordable medical check-up Bumrungrad Hospital packages ranging from B800 to 80,000 depending on which tests you take. Packages are often tailored to various age groups, separated by gender with names like “Vital”, “Supreme” and “Ultimate.” (And if you emerge afterwards feeling like any of the above, then I guess it was money well spent.) Basic programmes that include blood screening, CBC urinalysis and a chest X-ray can be had for as little as B790 at Bangkok Christian Hospital. Meanwhile, ultra comprehensive packages provide peace of mind for hypochondriacs for B5-8,000. Most packages require less than half a day and involve virtually no waiting time between appointments (if you can stomach hospital food, some places even throw in lunch). You’ll usually receive your results at the end of the same day. Most hospitals also have dental clinics that will clean and buff your fangs with state-of-the-art equipment for about B1,000. If your teeth are fading fast, you can whiten coffee/nicotine stains for around B10,000 for the hour long procedure. n Bumrungrad International Hospital | 02-667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Hospital | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivej.co.th n BNH Hospital | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital | 02- 310-3000, 1719 | www.bangkokhospital.com

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Sports

sports MASTER MUAY THAI! Many a champ started out punching mitts at one of Bangkok’s many muay Thai schools. Some are livein training camps, others geared towards drop-in sessions, but all will train you up and teach you how to deflect – and deliver – the basic moves, be it kick, jab, elbow, foot thrust or standing grapple. Beginners and female pugilists are welcome, though they often receive inordinate attention from the coming-of-age combatants. n Chacrit Muay Thai School Washington Square next to Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-260-5816 www.chacritmuaythaischool.com n Fairtex Muaythai RCA 149 3rd Fl. RCA Driving Range, Local Rd. | 02-203-1443 | www.muaythaifairtex.com n The International Muay Thai School 22/8 Moo 8, Soi 10, Pracharaj Sai1 Road, Bangsue | 02-585-6807 www.geocities.com/maimuangkorn/ eng_mai.htm n Muay Thai Institute 336/932 Prahonyothin 118 Vipravadee Road, Rangsit | 02-9920096-99 | www.muaythai-institute.net n Muaythai Sasiprapa 401 Soi Ladprao 130 Klongchan, Bangkapi | 02-378-0270 | www.muaythaisasiprapa.com

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THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

Fairtex

MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF, the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. spor ts

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.37) on any given day and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums.The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. bangkok 101

Spiceroads

Active Sports AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in! BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK.

CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand and its neighbours. ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Esplanade 4F | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more

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spor ts

like a nightclub on ice. Popular among youngsters, its 682m2 of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B900-2,400 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Centre (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with local ace Paradorn Srichaphan bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 113

Business

business In Bangkok on business? Rest assured it brings a lot to the table. Convention centres, ritzy hotels, world-class wine-and-dine spots... it’s little wonder it’s a regional hub for MICE (Meetings and Incentives, Conferences and Exhibitions), especially when you factor in the myriad down-time attractions. We dig up all the basics so that you don’t have to. Business Travellers Top on the list after you’ve touched down is, of course, a hotel.There are lots to choose from, in every location, but those that tick every business-traveller box include The Conrad, Sofitel Silom, Westin Grande and Sheraton Grande. Bangkok’s traffic has a justifiably miserable reputation, but having a car at your disposal can be handy. Try Limousine Thailand (www. limousinethailand.com). And if your hotel room isn’t cutting it as a makeshift office, then contact temporary office providers Regus (www.regus.co.th) or Servcorp (www.servcorp.net).

There’s rarely a quiet moment on the local trade fair scene. For a rundown, see www.thaitradefair.com. Or perhaps you’re considering staging your company’s big meet or team get-away here? If so, talk to the Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (www.tceb.or.th). They say it’s who you know – not what you know. To get your face out there, join one of the networking events hosted by Bangkok Young Professionals (www.mobyelite.com/byp) or others. If you’re short on business cards – and you will be after a night at the aforementioned – try one of the many one-stopshops at MBK shopping mall. It’s also worth reading up on Thailand’s face-saving and, often quirky, business culture.Try Working with the Thais: A Guide to Managing in Thailand by Henry Holmes and Suchada Tangtongtavy (White Lotus, B495). Finally, note that any foreigner working, or doing business here, must have a non-immigrant B visa and a work permit. If your company hasn’t arranged both, go to www.immigration.go.th and find out what you need. Or contact a business solutions provider like Sunbelt Asia – they’ll do all the paperwork so that you don’t have to. Starting Up Frequently voted one of the world’s best cities, it’s no surprise that so many look to set up shop in Bangkok. However, bear in mind that although Thailand opened it doors wide to foreign investment after the Asian Financial Crisis of 1997, it can still be a tricky place to establish a business. The best advice is to find local experts to help you clear the regulatory hurdles. Business solutions provider Sunbelt Asia (www.sunbeltasia.com) offers everything from upfront legal advice to business brokerage and serviced offices. Similarly, Bangkok Base (www.bangkokbase.com) is a 360° provider of business support. Chambers of commerce can also offer advice and assistance in finding partners. There are also a few books on the market. One of the best is Philip Wylie’s How to Establish a Successful Business in Thailand. In it you will find the essentials on the minutiae of business in Thailand, from negotiating baffling bureaucracy and legal peculiarities to cultural codes and social etiquette.

Business spotlight

The Retreat @ Sofitel Silom

Eight floors of super-swish Club Sofitel Rooms; a debonair Club Sofitel Lounge where boardroom warriors can unwind while enjoying free nibbles and commanding views of the fiscal battlefield below; the V9 wine bar; even a Mercedes Benz limo service. There’s a long list of reasons why pinstripes love the Sofitel Silom hotel. Alongside its location in one of Bangkok’s main business and entertainment districts, top among them is the fact that you can take care of all your business dealings here. Most hotels in town have a desultory meeting room, fax machine, etc, etc. Where 188 Silom Rd., 02But not every hotel has four huge, hi-tech conference 238-1991, www.sofitel.com rooms, a business centre with breakout space for lastBTS Chong Nonsi ditch negotiations and five separate boardrooms. A real standout at the Sofitel Silom, is The Retreat, up on the third floor. Done out in upscale Zen-style, with über plump sofas, vivid recessed wall lighting, and two banquet meeting rooms (each with LCD screen, telephone conference and wireless microphones), it’s somewhere you won’t feel bashful making your big pitch… or clinking celebratory flutes of champagne afterwards. Special offer: until 31 August a night in a luxury room and a full day meeting package costs from just B4,839++ per person (minimum of 10 bookings applies).

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Ideo Morph 38

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Another method to acquire land is through a loan/lease agreement, whereby you loan money to a Thai citizen under a contract specifying they must use it to buy a property. Your Thai business partner will then buy the property and legally own the land. Simply put, you then get your lawyer to draw up an agreement giving you – the lender – a leasehold agreement on the property. However you decide to approach the acquisition of property, be sure to shop around and proceed with caution. Research the developers’ track record, the location, the average rate of return, and the likelihood of a super-skyscraper popping up and blocking that achingly beautiful view of the Chao Phraya River. Also, be aware that tales of relationships suddenly souring once deeds are signed are all too common. The best advice is to exercise common sense and find local experts you can trust. International brokerage firm Sunbelt Asia (www.property.th.com) has plenty of listings and English-speaking consultants on hand, while Property Report magazine (www.property-report.com) will give you a good overview of the whole scene. business

Photo courtesy of Ananda Development

Buying Property Many visitors decide they want to buy property in Bangkok: some because they fall in love with the city and all its eclectic idiosyncrasies; others because they jet in and out of the city on business and want more than a hotel room can offer. Whatever the reasons, buyers can find a wide range of accommodation at very favourable prices. From simple US$18,000 studio apartments to lavish million-dollar condos, there are options to suit most budgets. Non-Thai citizens looking to acquire property in the country will most probably be looking to purchase apartments rather than houses; as the law currently stands, foreigners are permitted to buy condos providing at least 51% of the building’s units are Thai-owned. Land (and therefore houses) is a different matter. Technically foreigners are not allowed to own land in Thailand, though if you are a foreigner married to a Thai citizen, then it is quite straightforward to draw everything up in your partner’s name.

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Courses&Ser vices

courses

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi | 02-294-9029 | www.baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 116

(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02711-5270-3 | www.chivasomacademy. com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. The high but justified prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses available in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล อะคาเดมี

โมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well. Perfect for a serious, but short stint into Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

MOO BAAN DEK

The “Children’s Village” (www.ffc.or.th/mbd) was founded in 1979 in Kanchanaburi province as an alternative education community for Thai children who have been orphaned, abused or abandoned. What marks it out is its progressive, child-centred, democratic and non-authoritarian approach to child-rearing. Influenced by A.S. Neill’s pioneering (and controversial) Summerhill School, in the UK, the belief here is that the child is basically good, and that it is wrong of parents and society to distort this natural goodness. This doesn’t mean the 140 Moo Baan Dek kids live feral, Lord of the Flies-esque lifestyles on the banks of the River Kwai; only that an education curriculum very different to your average state orphanage is followed. The daily timetable includes work in the organic farm, lessons, vocational and artistic workshops (batik, cloth-making, gardening, ceramics, weaving, IT, English etc), sports and free time. The difference here is that teachers don’t force anyone to follow it, but instead try and instil the Buddhists precepts of chanda (self-motivation), metta (loving-kindness), karung (compassion), mudita (sympathetic joy) and upekkha (equanimity). In other words, the children are free agents unless they ask for help, show signs that they need help or infringe upon the rights of others. What happens when conflicts arise? In school council meetings, both adults and students have equal say in proposing ways to settle them, and to create and amend rules. Children at Moo Baan Dek, however small, can raise grievances and have every member of the community decide on a just punishment which involves no physical or mental harm. Moo Baan Dek and its non-interference, Summerhill approach is not without its critics (“how can children raised in this kind of community ever adjust to the injustices of the outside world?” some ask). However, its champions point to the school’s 30 years of successful child rearing and their continued success, via regular contact with Moo Baan Dek’s social workers, at reintegrating children into greater society. For more info, log on to www.ffc.or.th/mbd. Donations can be offered via the following channels: Cheques (payable to Foundation for Children) can be sent to: Foundation for Children, 95/24 Moo6, Soi Kiet Ruammitra, Buddha Monthon 4, Nakhon Pathom 73220 Bank transfers (to “Foundation for Children”) can be made at the following banks in Thailand: Siam Commercial Bank (a/c no 115-2-14733-0) or Bangkok Bank (a/c no 236-0-30989-8). If outside Thailand see www.ffc.or.th/mbd/donations.html for details.

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Reference

survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words. Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement). The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then. Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you? I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

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sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná ˘ thôt kho khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669 LOST CREDIT CARD CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) MasterCard 02-260-8572 Visa 02-273-1199 or 02-273-7449 MEDICAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHONE SERVICES Bangkok Directory Inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 International Long Distance 100 Overseas Subscribers Call 001 TOURISM OFFICES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist Information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-282- 9773, 02-2505500 | daily 8:30am- 4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02- 250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www. bangkoktourist.com IMMIGRATION DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am- 4pm EMBASSIES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02344-6300 | www.austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place 15F, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.bangkokinternational.gc.ca bangkok 101

Cambodia 185 Ratchadamri Rd | 02957-5851-2 | RECBKK@hotmail.com China 57 Ratchadaphisek Rd, Din Daeng | 02-245-7043/4 | www.chinaembassy.or.th India 46 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02258- 0300/5 | www.indianembassy. gov.in/bangkok Indonesia 600-602 Phetchaburi Rd | 02-252-3135/40 Japan 177 Wireless Rd | 02-696-3000, 02-207-8500 | www.th.emb-japan.go.jp Laos 520, 502/1-3 Wang Thonglang Rd | 02-539-6667 | www.bkklaoembassy.com Malaysia 33-35 South Sathorn Rd | 026296800 | ww.kin.gov.my/perwakilan/ bangkok Myanmar 132 North Sathorn Rd | 02233-2237, 02-234-4698, 02-234-4789 | mebkk@asianet.co.th New Zealand M Thai Tower, 14F All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu Rd | 02-254-2530 | www.nzembassy.com Philippines 760 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-259-0139/40 | www.philembassybangkok.net Singapore 129 South Sathorn Rd | 02-286-2111 United Kingdom 1031 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-8333 | www.ukinthailand. fco.gov.uk U.S.A. 120-122 Witthayu Rd | 02205-4000; www.usa.or.th/embassy Vietnam 83/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-251-5836 TRANSPORT PLANE Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Airport Call Centre 02-132-1888 Bangkok Airways 02-265-5555 | www.bangkokair.com Air Asia Suvarnabhumi International Airport A1-062 FG, Concourse A | 02-5159999 | www.airasia.com Thai Airways Int’l Suvarnabhumi International Airport F4, Row F | 02-356-1111 | www.thaiair.com TRAIN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 reference

contacts

Train

SKYTRAIN/SUBWAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-612-2444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BUS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mor Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai)

Surfing BKK There’s a million websites out there, all desperate for a good quick click – but these are the only ones we would take home to meet our mum. n www.1stopbangkok.com Everything you wanted to know about Bangkok but were afraid to ask. n www.thaivisa.com General, boring, immigration type stuff and an entertaining messageboard. n www.bangkokartmap.com Find out where the pretty pictures and free wine’s at. n www.paknamweb.com Blogs, blogs and more blogs. Everything from the Thai lottery to sizzling streetfood. n www.movieseer.com Popcorn? Check. Emergency sweater? Check. Showtimes? Check here! 119

Reference

getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options.

also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the public taxi queue outside the terminal, a B50 surcharge is added to the metered fare. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers. MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle 120

taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-23 Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS reference

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.24) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance. Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3. CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B8 to B18. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. bangkok 101