Bangkok 101 - October 2008 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

october 2008 100 baht

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TALES FROM THE CITY

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t h r o u g ht a tl he se feryoems ot hf eh icsi tkyi n g d o m

1 on 1: PAMELA HAMBURGER Now in Bangkok: 6th WORLD FILM FESTIVAL OF BANGKOK Very Thai: GHOST STORIES Day Trip: KOH KRED The Natural Guide: KHAO YAI Upcountry Escape: PHUKET Over the Border: MACAU

october 2008

Photographs by

Making Merit: LOTUS FLOWER FOUNDATION

CATHERINE KARNOW HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

publisher’s

letter october 2008

This month we prove that even with Thai politics hogging the headlines, it takes more than a few grumpy chaps in suits to put a dampener on this pulsating city. A brimming events calendar (p.14) shows buzzy metropolitan life continuing apace. Meanwhile, our regular line-up chimes with what everyone living, working and playing here is thinking: who needs politicians when we’ve got Bangkok and its unique people? This is touched on in our monthly One-on-One, a chat with author of new book Klongs, Pamela Hamburger (p.12). She laments the mismanagement of Bangkok’s once sparkling canals; only to then underscore the reason they are still a must visit: its people. A metaphor for the country at large perhaps? Bangkok’s doughty populace are also the focus of our Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom photo feature (p.48) by San Franciscan photographer Catherine Karnow. A regular in National Geographic glossies, she has a strong, narrative style – you really yearn to know more about her offbeat subjects, be they fortune tellers, tattoo artists or newscasters. Interested in this month’s Chinese Vegetarian Festival? Upcountry Escape profiles its epicentre, Phuket (see p. 40 for an introduction to the island and the macabre selfmutilators who flock there). Meanwhile, our Daytrip is to nearby Koh Kred (p.38), a cultural anomaly/tiny island famed for its earthenware pottery; while The Natural Guide delves into Thailand’s first designated national park, Khao Yai (p.42). Bangkok also continues to serve as a regional hub for cinematic appreciation, what with the 6th Annual World Film Festival running from 24 October – 2 November (only a month after the slightly brasher Bangkok International Film Festival). As detailed in Now in Bangkok (p.12), more than 80 quality arthouse and non-mainstream flicks from across the planet will vie for the attention of local cinefiles. So, you see, plenty of rays of sunshine can be found peeking out around the edges of the persistent political storm. And Bangkok 101 remains the best place to find them.

Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher & Editorial Director

Chinese Vegetarian Festival

What i1s01? Bangkok Bangkok 101 catersthey

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contributors Catherine Karnow Born and raised in Hong Kong, San Francisco-based photographer Catherine Karnow was the only non-Vietnamese photojournalist to accompany General Giap on his historic return to the forest encampment from which he plotted the battle of Dien Bien Phu, in 1994. She also gained unprecedented access to H.R.H. The Prince of Wales for her 2006 National Geographic feature, “Not Your Typical Radical”. Her work has appeared in National Geographic Traveler, GEO and many other publications.

Noy Thrupkaew

Tom Mintier From covering the Vietnam War as an army photographer to heading up CNN bureaus in London and Bangkok, Tom Mintier is one of the most recognised and respected media figures in Thailand today. An Emmy awardwinning television news journalist, Tom covered many events live for CNN, including the 1989 student uprising in Tiananmen Square and the fall of the Berlin Wall. Currently a consultant at AMATA Corp and professor at Thammasat University in Bangkok, Tom continues to train local journalists.

Steven Pettifor

Noy is a U.S. journalist and former Pew fellow in International Journalism and Fulbright fellow in contemporary Thai cinema. She writes frequently on international politics and culture. Noy has reported from Cuba, Iran, Morocco, Japan, and Cambodia, among other countries; for outlets including The Guardian, Marie Claire, Ms. and The American Prospect, where she is a senior correspondent.

British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Philip Cornwel-Smith

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness:Thailand and international magazines.

Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Joel Quenby Joel started out in London as a wannabe music hack, blagging his way backstage, being snubbed by Spice Girls and scared witless by Kelis. He seemed to spawn a guilty penchant for inane pop culture commentary, and has since made the leap to the embattled frontlines of consumer lifestyle publishing, film musing and advertising copywriting. He’s aware that this is not particularly big or clever, but continues nonetheless.

Cheryl Tseng An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia.com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher & Editorial Director Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Design Director Yuthtaya Sangnak Art Director Narong Srisaiya Editorial Assistants Piyakwan Mettaprasert Tippicha Chumsaeng Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Frances Doherty Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,TAT Director of Marketing Vareeporn Arunsuratpakdee Account Executive Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Suwadee Mankij Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Jaruwan Janvisitsak Adul Waengmol Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Design concept by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com Printed by Allied Printers T: 02-240-3700 © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2008. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

contents

table of

october 2008

snapshots 10 12 13 14 16 17 18 19

101 picks 1 on 1 now in bangkok events calendar history religion customs very thai: ghost stories

sightseeing

20 28 29 30 32 33 34 36 38 39 40 42 44

arts 46 47 48 56 57 58 59

route 101 historic buildings palaces temples museums the great outdoors river tourism day tripping featured day trip: koh kred upcountry festivals featured escape: phuket the natural guide: khao yai over the border: macau

contemporary art galleries photo feature: tales from the city performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening

On the cover: The annual football game between Chulalongkorn and Thammasat universities is more than just a heated match between two rivals. The countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s two most prestigious intellectual centres also put on spirited parades and political and cultural satires during the game. These posters were part of those festivities. Photo by: catherine karnow

contents

table of

food & drinks 60 62 63 64 65 68 73 75 76 77 78 79 80

shopping

courses & services

accommodation

sports

98 100 102 104

dining in bangkok thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants chic bangkok dinner cruises brunching tea late dining sweet treats all you can eat wine

82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96

one night in bangkok nightclubs hotel nightclubs bars bars with a view hotel jazz clubs live music pub crawling

114 cooking, meditation & thai massage courses 115 making merit: the lotus flower foundation

stuff shopping tours mall crawl markets

106 one room & boutique hotel

health & wellness 108 110 111 112

116 spectator sports 117 active sports

reference

body & beauty spas medical tourism wellness centres

118 119 120

64 nightlife

october 2008

survival thai contacts getting around

106

110

115

Snapshots

101 picks

Before dashing off to a tropical island or the mountains, scratch beneath the city’s gritty surface to discover gems that’ll keep you here longer. We’ve compiled our Bangkok favourites here.

one night in bangkok

shopping

thai style

food heaven

open air

■ Chatuchak It’s a sweaty affair, but a market must on weekends – ogle stuff you didn’t even know was for sale (p.104)

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.117)

■ Beautiful Brunches What else are Sundays for? Indulge at any five-star hotel. Smaller places are great, too (p. 75)

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a big zoo & Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous greenery (p.33)

■ Bars & Clubs Get in amongst Bangkok’s legendar y nightlife (pp.82-97)

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar Downtown mini-Chatuchak, just cleaner, hipper, open daily & less hot (p.104)

■ Thai Massage Passive torture or sheer bliss, you gotta try it once (p.116)

■ Food Courts Thai food 101, the safe (and air-conditioned) way (p.64)

■ On the River Take an express boat up to Nonthaburi, rent a long-tail boat or do a dinner cruise (p.34)

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar Munich’s Oktoberfest goes Thai and throws in some major shopping (p.104)

■ MBK & Siam Square Cell phone heaven meets nifty young Thai designers (p.100)

■ Thai Cooking Classes Your culinary chance to advance on the phad thai cliché (p.116)

■ Dining Cruises The setting won’t get any better; also available for lunch (p.73)

■ Cycling Tour Discover the green amid Bangkok’s chaos, and you might consider moving here (p.115)

■ Shows Traditional Thai dance or tranny cabaret – it’s up to you (p.85)

■ Patpong A bustling street bazaar incongruously sandwiched between neon-lit gogo bars (p.104)

■ Thai Boxing The brutal, quintessentially Thai form of kickboxing (p.114)

■ Meal Deals Fancy a cheap gourmet chow-down? (p.61)

■ Ancient City Rent a bike and see all of Thailand in half a day in smog-free surroundings (p.37)

■ High Attitude Bars Shell out for the great views and cool breezes (p.90)

■ Panthip Plaza Get lost in a mega-mall paradise for computer junkies! (p.102)

■ TCDC Cool, creative learning space for Thai designers (p.57)

■ Street Food We dare you! Timid souls opt for fantastic, fresh fruit (p.64)

■ Lumphini Park The Central Park of the tropics (p.33)

■ Dining Cruises Slothful full-board sightseeing (p.71)

■ River City Antiques galore – expect top quality, not bargain basement (p.102)

■ Jim Thompson House & Silk Shop Commune with one of Bangkok’s favourite spooks (p.98)

■ Affordable Gourmet Eat topnotch French, Italian and more for the price of a N.Y. martini (p.70)

■ Flower Market Close your eyes and inhale deeply (p.105)

■ Carnivalesque Par ty with the backpacker crowd on Khao San Rd or Thai hipsters on RCA (pp.88; 93)

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bangkok 101

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1 on 1 New book, Klongs (see p.59), presents a portrait of the city’s embattled canals. Penned by the wife of the EU ambassador, Pamela Hamburger, in it she juxtaposes her unvarnished snaps with firsthand accounts by the locals who live beside them. The results are both thought-provoking and enlightening. Our veteran question-master, Tom Mintier, tracked her down to The Oriental’s Author’s Lounge to see if there’s life in the old klongs yet. Is your book, Klongs, a statement about Bangkok’s environmental condition? It’s a statement about Bangkok’s unseen face: you get a familiarity with the klongs that a lot of tourists don’t get to see, and the stories of the people who live there. Everybody has a different story to tell. When you hear the stories of these people you get such a clear picture of the nature of the Thais, their adaptability.

PAMELA HAMBURGER civilization has built itself up into a business-like world in the centre of town. On the other, the waterside has remained the waterside, but its atmosphere, its whole posture has changed. Unless you go deep, deep into the klongs that is, and even there it’s... [shrugs].

The book goes into an area locals have watched change. For many the klongs they used to swim in, fi sh in are now tainted. Isn’t this worrying? Yes it is. When I was busy going on the klongs, compiling all the interviews this came up again and again. If you can imagine that, no so long ago, Bangkok had klongs that you could see through well enough to see the fish, the shrimp, and even the shrimps’ eyes at night and you look today... it’s incredible.

When your friends come to Thailand where do you take them? I take them to go and see the klongs first, because it’s an interesting facet of Bangkok they wouldn’t normally think of. They’d normally want to go to see temples, the Grand Palace, or shop. Seeing the klongs first puts a different perspective on everything else you see and people get really excited about the Thai people and their old way of life.

Do you think people who saw Bangkok in the 1950s would be surprised if they came back today? Yes, they would. On one hand

Do the klongs meet their expectations? When they see the Chao Phraya River for the first time they’re very snapshots

happy – sort of like stepping on the edge of the Ganges, or putting your foot in the Pacific for the first time. But when on the klongs they’re just absolutely quiet and thrilled. When did Klongs become more than just a coffee table book? With the peoples’ stories. For example, we lucked out by finding a woman who does the last remaining Thai art metalwork in the world. A whole community used to do it. Now it’s died out apart from a lady in her fifties and two retirement-age workers who stand in front of hot ovens all day long. What I got from your book is that many of the things used to be traded in specific locations, and that’s changed... Yes, trade communities did and still do produce particular things. They’re still there, just in fewer numbers.

bangkok 101

Kiss of the Spider wom

now in bangkok

A Moment in June

24 October – 2 November 6th World Film Festival of Bangkok

Hot on the heels of the Thai Short Film and Video Festival and the revitalised Bangkok International Film Festival (BIFF) comes the 6th World Film Festival of Bangkok. Running from 24 Oct–2 Nov at the Siam Paragon mall’s Paragon Cineplex, film freaks will be treated to their third helping of world-class shorts, arthouse and independent flicks in as many months. A more low-key affair than the PR blitz that is the BIFF festival, it presents a more focused (and some would argue highbrow) line-up, coming in at a taut 65 films. Run by the folks at The Nation newspaper, diehard movie lovers tend to treat this as their source of silver screen gems that would otherwise never see the light of day in Thailand. As for what’s showing, the Asian contemporary leg of the programme will include flicks from Malaysia, Indonesia, Kazakhstan, and, yes, the slow-burning scene in Thailand. One of two domestic flicks showing is O Nathapon’s A Moment in June,, a byproduct of the festival’s very own filmmarketing workshop; the other an effort by Santi Taepanich. Thailand will have an even stronger showing in the short films; including, among others, Tongpong Chantarangkul’s Wings of Blue Angel. No less than 14 documentaries will get a screening. Among offerings from India, Brazil and Palestine, this hard-hitting hotchpotch will include The Art of Documentary.. This film records twelve budding filmmakers during their stint at a documentary-making workshop in our military-run neighbour, Burma. Over in the World Cinema section, 11 features from predominantly EU countries will be shown. Latin American fans, meanwhile, will be delighted with five strong offerings, including Argentinean Albertina Carri’s disturbing study of adultery La Rabia; and Jose Luis Torres Leiva’s The Sky, the Earth and the Rain, a meditative mood piece set in the ravishing landscapes of southern Chile. This year’s retrospective will honour the late British artist/writer/ filmmaker maverick, Derek Jarman, including early works Jubilee and the intensely dreamlike The Angelic Conversation. Meanwhile, five films by Shyam Benegal, a prolific Indian filmmaker with a style informed by renowned neo-realist Satjajit Ray, will be screened in the tribute section. As will the Oscar nominated Kiss of the Spider Woman, one of three featured works from the oeuvre of Brazilian director Hector Babenco. Surely all half-serious cinephiles will have a hard time not enjoying themselves at this often jam-packed event. If that’s you, check their website, www.worldfilmbkk.com, for more info. bangkok 101

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Eat, for This My Boy

Wa ltz wit h Ba shi

Three Monkeys

Snapshots

events calendar

2 October Bed Supperclub 6th Anniversary

For its 6th birthday shindig, the club-in-a-space-pod is going dystopian. Invoking the dark tones of Blade Runner and the totalitarian sensibility of George Orwell’s 1984, this party will pair riot-police performers and CCTV cameras with music from hip-hop super crew Bangkok Invaders, resident DJs and a surprise live music act. Doors open to public after 10pm, with entry costing B1,000. Call 02651-3537 for information.

Until 7th October Vegetarian Festival

Bangkok is gripped by veggie-fever during the first nine days of the ninth Chinese lunar month. Look out for yellow-flagged vendors and shops selling tasty meat substitutes, especially around Chinatown; and see p.72 for a slew of meatless meal deals.

1 – 5 October Breakout

A high-energy South Korean dance comedy. Five clumsy yet loveable prisoners discover a sacred text – and, by the magic of theatre, hi-jinks ensue. If you fancy seeing them flip/ breakdance/body-pop their way to freedom, drag your ball and chain down to Siam Paragon’s Royal Paragon Hall. Tickets, priced from B500-1,500 at www.thaiticketmajor.com

4 October ThaiCraft Fair

Choose from a wide selection of attractive handmade crafts, sourced from over 50 different villages, at the ThaiCraft Fair. Prices are fixed to ensure a fair price for artisans but there are bound to be some real bargains. Runs from 10am - 2pm on the 3rd floor of the Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing; www.thaicraft.org for more. 14

Throughout Oct Spooky Cinema 2- 5 October Creativities Unfold at TCDC

Spin your artsy idea into something lucrative with the help of this threeday annual design symposium at the Thailand Creative & Design Centre. Lectures illuminating the three fundamentals – business, people, culture – behind successful creative ventures will be given by established graphic designers, media makers and architects, among other influential industry figures. Tickets (B600 per day/B1,500 for 3 days) available via Thaiticketmajor on 02-262-3456; or see www.tcdc.or.th for more info. snapshots

For some spine-chilling cinema in the run up to Halloween visit The Japan Foundation’s Theatre. A series of spiritual J-horrors will screen throughout October; see www.jfbkk.or.th for scheduling.

9 October V9: Six in the City

V9, the Sofi tel Bangkok Silom hotel’s wine-bar/restaurant, is turning six! Once you’ve paid the B1,000 entry fee for this DJ-led anniversary party, all food and drink will flow freely. Call 02-238-1991 ext. 1351 for more. bangkok 101

23 October Chulalongkorn Memorial Day

King Rama V is known as the moderniser King and is still much revered today. To mark the day of his death in 1910, a public holiday, join the masses in laying a wreath at the King Rama V equestrian statue which stands at the centre of Bangkok’s Royal Plaza, just in front of the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall (pg.31).

11 October Asian Hip-Hop Festival

Get down, ghetto boys and girls, to Bangkok’s first ever hip-hop festival. Hosted by local rap icons Thaitanium at Impact Arena, rising hip-hop stars from across Asia will spit their slick rhymes before a headline slot by US megastar Nas. Expect a hollering army of foxy Asian J-Los and head-nodding Akon looky-likeys. Tickets (B300–2,000) through www. thaiticketmajor.com

11 October Charity Midnight Run

This annual fun-run kicks off at the stroke of midnight, just outside the Amari Watergate Hotel. Proceeds go to two charities: the Charlerm Prakiat HRH Princess Sirindhorn School, which supports children whose parents have died of HIV; and Baan Gerda, a children’s village project that looks after kids also infected. Entry costs B300 or B1,000 with chances to win raffle prizes. Call 02-6539000 ext. 5780 for details. bangkok 101

10 October DJ Disciple

US house music producer DJ Disciple will, for this post-anniversary party at Sukhumvit Soi 11’s Bed Supperclub, lay down his deep-tech and soulful house grooves to a roomful of funked-up fashionistas. Tickets cost B1,000 and include two drinks. See www.bedsupperclub.com or call 02 651 3537.

16 – 18 October National Beethoven Competition

Classical music performances are something of a rarity in pop-obsessed Bangkok. So, if you’re yearning for sonatas and symphonies hurry down to the Goethe Institute’s Auditorium in Sathorn. The winners of this annual competition – Thailand’s finest young classical string musicians – will receive their awards and perform on Friday Oct 17. Not only that, students from Germany’s Franz-Liszt College of Music and three seasoned Japanese performers will also perform, on Thursday 16 Oct and Saturday 18 Oct respectively. All concerts are free and start at 8pm. See www.goethe. de/bangkok or call 02-287-0942 for more info.

26 October Walk for Education

If a midnight run on 11 October is too much for the latent philanthropist in you, then how about a walk in the park – Lumpini Park? The walk will raise funds for the HDF Mercy Centre, an organisation serving the poorest children in one of Bangkok’s bleakest slums. Events also include aerobics, lucky draws, shows by HDF children, a human jigsaw, food stalls and those street magicians who can produce flowers from your ear.The walk will commence at 6.15am but the activities continue all day. See www.mercycentre.org for more.

TRADE FAIR VENUES

24 October – 2 November 6th World Film Festival of Bangkok

Catch the best in new, nonmainstream world cinema at the Siam Paragon Cineplex. See Now in Bangkok on pg. 12 for a full preview. snapshots

EXHIBITION PERFORMANCE CHARITY/SPORT TRADE FAIR OTHER

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history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lots of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the Sathorn/Silom

districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas and leafy public parks. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. These gradually-expanding public transpor tation networks, with their

bright, snaking trains carrying wideeyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped relieve the city’s notorious traffic congestion and pollution, but given this City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ but instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It is no surprise that The Guinness Book of Records registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

he majority of Thais (over 90 %) are Theravada Buddhists, with the rest of the population split between Muslims, Christians, Sikhs and Hindus. Older animist beliefs also remain, practised alongside a version of the Buddhism that originated with the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha, in India around the 6th century BC. Theravada Buddhism is based on the concepts of dukkha (suffering), anicca (impermanence and transience), and anatta (im“making merit” – donating permanence of the self) to the poor or a temple, or Thai Buddhist – suffering arises through handing out rice to monks monks once attachment to imperduring their morning almsdyed their manent conditions. By gathering processions. own robes working to extinguish Nearly all Thai Buddhist with colour attachment through men will become monks, extracted meditation and proper if only for a short time. from turmeric conduct, Buddhist pracWomen cannot be orand the titioners can eventually heartwood and dained but some become attain spiritual enlightennuns, although their numleaves from jackfruit trees; bers remain low. Contrary ment (nirvana), freeing now most them from cycles of reto Western perceptions robes come birth. A soul is reborn of Buddhism as a religion chemically according to its progress above the fray of everyday dyed. (or lack of it) towards life, monks and nuns have nirvana, with animals launched HIV-education and forming lower strata and monks oc- drug-prevention campaigns, orphancupying the top. The Buddha himself ages, and other social programmes. took 550 lives to become enlight- More controversially, a number of ened (mural paintings in Thai temples monks have begun advocating that often depict tales of his former lives, Buddhism should be enshrined in the called jataka), so most Thais focus new constitution as Thailand’s state on attaining a better rebirth through religion.

Did you know?

bangkok 101

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religion

For more information on Buddhism and meditation courses, check out the World Fellowship of Buddhists at www.wfb-hq.org and the international homepage of Vipassana meditation centres at www.dhamma.org.

Spirit houses Hand in hand with their Buddhist faith, Thais still hold many animist beliefs. Spirit worship is widely practised and spirit houses can be seen on the corner of most residential and commercial properties. By providing the spirits (good and evil) with shelter, it’s hoped that they will protect houses or buildings from any harm or mischief. To make sure the spirits are kept happy, offerings of incense, fruit, flowers or rice are made every day. 17

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customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion. The Monarchy Thai people love their king with deep reverence for the monarchy. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and other public places.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Thais don’t usually shake hands but rather wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows respect and humility.The higher the hands are raised, the more respect is being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. 18

raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand. snapshots

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ don’t step on the threshold ■ don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ be considerate when taking photographs ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth bangkok 101

very thai Philip Cornwel-Smith

GHOST STORIeS

Haunted houses, restless souls and supernatural soap operas

Old wooden houses set the Westerner swooning with nostalgia, but cause many a Thai to freak. No wonder refined mansions are so readily demolished in Cement Age Thailand – they’re presumed to be haunted. The same goes for beautiful old furniture. Suspicion that a stranger died horribly on the bed, or the chest belonged to a drowned aunt, sends exquisite teak heritage into the trash in favour of new plastic or chipboard replacements. Haunted houses are hardly unique to Thailand. What’s unusual is the number of them and how much phii (bad spirits) affect day-to-day perceptions. Ghosts are a mainstay of newspapers, magazines, soap operas and movies. Spine-chillers spin a major thread through Thai literature, from the mid-20th century ghost yarns by Hem Wejakorn and “One Baht” pulp horror booklets through to today’s comic strip ghouls. Most potent remains the oral tradition. A purported 80 percent of Thais believe in the supernatural, taking seriously those who’ve experienced a visitation, or someone who knows someone who has. Some believe that dogs howl at night on seeing a ghost, others that you can see a ghost’s true form when looking back between one’s legs. Even sophisticated urban Thais who pooh-pooh superstition find themselves assuaging the phii “just in case”, and uttering mantras at moments of fright.

bangkok 101

snapshots

Photographs by John Goss

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. for page after colourful page, author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. from the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt each month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic. Snap up a copy at any good book shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith 19

Sightseeing

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hether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

RATTANAKOSIN

Wat Po

The Giant Swing

Welcome to Rattanakosin Island: historical heartland of modern Bangkok, spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Surrounded by man-made klongs (canals) and the Chao Phraya River, and immune to high-rise developments, its charms include decaying old shophouses (as opposed to 50-storey monsters) and the highest density of sacred must-sees in Bangkok. Whether you’re here for a few hours, a few days or more, every itinerary should include some time here. First stop is Wat Arun (p.31), also known as the Temple of Dawn. Actually pre-dating the Rattanakosin era, it’s a 20

cornerstone of Thailand’s history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin then, once at the river, jump on an express boat (ask someone to point out which boat is an express). As you face the river, you want to be going right, upriver. Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its spire aglow, is easy to spot. After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross the river back to Tha Tien pier. Then make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.31). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles de-knotted at the famous Thai massage school. Temple initiation over, head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.29) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.31). Snub the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to pace, reverentially, sightseeing

around this gilded fairytale of a royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.28). Hungry for more Thai history? Then exit and head north across the ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.32). Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably find it is early evening. The rest of your evening is up to you – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some pad thai with the backpackers along Khao San Road. Or hit a cocktail bar like Amourosa, with its picture-postcard views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun.

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MORE RECOMMENDED SITES: ■ Khao San Road Backpackers and all their material attachments. ■ Wat Mahathat A centre of Buddhist teaching hemmed in by a jostling amulet market. ■ The Giant Swing Men reached hazardous heights here during annual ceremonies – until it was banned. ■ Phra Athit Road Bohemian cafes, a tranquil park and an old fort converge upon one treeshaded street.

bangkok 101

DINING PIT-STOPS: Use these restaurants to recharge en route. ■ Amorosa Open-air bar with stunning views of river-straddling Wat Arun. 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road | 02-221-9158 | www. arunresidence.com ■ Kin Lom Chom Saphan Feast on Thai seafood while eyeballing river reflections of Rama VIII Bridge. 11/6 Soi Samsen 3 | 02-628-8382 ■ Thipsamai Famous pad thai restaurant. 313 Mahachai Rd | www.thipsamai.com ■ Tha Chang Food Market A lip-smacking local market unfurls here each day. sightseeing

Sightseeing

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SUKHUMVIT

nce a suburban backwater dominated by a stretch of rice fields, Sukhumvit has evolved into the residential destination of choice for aspirational Thais and the expats who work with them. As a result, it has developed its own ‘village culture’ – marked by twee cafés, achingly hip boutiques and a veritable nation of day spas. In other words, when temple and museum-weariness set in, Sukhumvit could very well offer the perfect antidote.

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Divana Divine

Shades of Retro

TCDC@Emporium

Get a quick jump on the day and loosen up with a morning jog around the lake in Benjakitti Park. Located adjacent to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, which hosts world class expos weekly (see calendar pp.14-15), it is easily accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. Now you’re probably hungry, so exit the park via the north end gates. Walk towards Sukhumvit and you will find Crêpes and Co. nestled away in a quiet soi, where they serve an excellent all-day brunch (see p.75). For a quick shot of culture, nothing beats a jaunt to Asok Road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross) to the Siam Society (see also Baan Khamthieng, p.28), an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures and exhibitions. After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain and off to Phrom Phong station. Here you will find the cultural epicentre of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, Emporium. While you can easily get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, world-class designers and up-andcoming Thai labels here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and Design Center sightseeing

(TCDC) on the 6th floor which continually stages thought-provoking, and usually free, exhibitions. And even better yet, TCDC is a short escalator ride away from the food floor, a United Nations of culinary possibilities. If your back is aching from scrutinising all that art, why not hit the spa? Down Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana) is Hapa Spa, very popular with expats. A different (perhaps more radical) option for those in need of some detoxing: the hydrotherapy colonic at Rasayana Retreat on Sukhumvit 39, which costs B2,650 and takes about 45 minutes. After your treatment, you can refuel with a smoothie at Rasayana’s “living foods” café or take a short cab or tuktuk ride down to Sukhumvit Soi 51, and turn at the first right you see. Here stands Agalico (see detail p.76), an allwhite tea lounge situated in a lush garden. Only open weekends, it’s a hidden sanctuary for Bangkokians looking for a good cuppa and some fresh air. Crêpes and Co

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compound, is particularly recommended for sashimi lovers. Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, the night time is definitely the right time. People craving a drink and some conversation need look no further than antique store/café Shades of Retro, where the ambience is very laid-back. Alternately, if you still have some room for dessert, don’t even hesitate and head immediately to Coffee Beans by Dao on Ekkamai (Sukhumvit 63). Located on the ground floor of a condominium, the cheesecakes at this local hi-so favourite are out of this world. After satisfying your sugar intake, those looking to make a very Thai night of it (coke and whisky, a Thai live band, mini-skirted girls) can head to the jam- packed and ironically-named Nang Len, which means “to sit around” in Thai. However you’d probably win the lottery before you find a seat here on the weekends. sightseeing

Coffee Beans by Dao

Sightseeing

PATHUMWAN

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SIAM AND PRATUNAM

Central Chidlom

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the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride. Get on a boat heading west and get off at Jim Thompson’s House (see p. 28). Jim Thompson’s House is Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination after the Grand Palace (see p. 29). It is a wonderful place to wander around and perhaps indulge at the café. After all this walking, a sit-down is probably in order. Central World Asia’s largest “lifestyle shopping complex” houses scores of great restaurants and a fantastic cinema complex, where you can treat yourself to a ‘luxury cinema’ screening (see p.58).

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the skyline is the Baiyoke Tower, which provides a wonderful 360degree panoramic view of Bangkok and offers the perfect opportunity for a snack. Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed

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he Pratunam and Siam Square districts are famed as a shopper’s paradise. From the chaos of the shop-4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. Hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the canal (khlong) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the Pratunam clothes market (see p. 100), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand. Once you have had your fill of clothes shopping, continue up the road. Soaring above

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Sightseeing

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SILOM & SATHORN Silom Village

he Sathorn/Silom area personifies Bangkok’s split personality. The white collar, bustling crux of Bangkok’s business world by day, this whirlwind area houses a grab bag of cultural and religious sites. But when night falls this area hustles, gyrates, and rears a very different head. Home to a large chunk of Bangkok’s corporate world, this area spilling with yuppies and bigwigs during the day, kicks it up a gear after office hours, with a jiving scene of clubs, expat pubs, some very shady characters, and one oh-so-slightly notorious little lane. P.M. Kukrit’s House

Lumphini Boxing Stadium

Set the alarm and beat the sun to the punch; there’s much to be done today. Skip the hotel breakfast and head out early for a more localised experience. Take the MRT to the Sam Yan stop. Here you will find an oldlooking shop house called Jok Sam Yan. A legendary Thai institution for over four decades selling only one item, jok moo, or rice congee with pork. It’s immensely popular but they close at 8am, so come early! Walk towards Silom and take a venomous venture into the Snake Farm (see p. 33) and watch wranglers extract poison from serpents, and if you dare you can even pet a cobra or kiss a python! If you’re still alive, continue on your earlier path and shop for some sumptuous silk items at Jim Thompson’s flagship store on Surawong Road. Once you have all your ties and linens, take a nice stroll in Lumphini, Bangkok’s largest public park. If it’s the weekend take a taxi into the past with former P.M. Kukrit’s heritage house. (see p. 28) Go back down tree-lined Convent Road, known as Bangkok’s French quarter for its cluster of French cafés, butcher shop and a bakery, La Boulange, where you can have a light lunch or grab a freshly baked baguette. Another option is the Silver Palace snapshots

Restaurant in Silom Soi 3 for some excellent dim sum. After filling up follow the throngs of office workers into Soi Lalai Sup (The Soi that melts your assets), squeezing through the chaos, hunt down bargains on clothes, gifts and other knick-knack paddy wacks. Farther down Silom on Thanon Pan, you will come across Wat Mahamariamman. Referred to by locals as Wat Kaek, it is the most famous Hindu temple in Bangkok and rituals are performed here daily at noon. Right across the street is Kathmandu Gallery (see p.47) featuring great photo exhibits, and also Silom Village which is a nice spot to pick up some handicrafts. Go through Chong Nonsi and look for Sathorn Soi 12. Loosen up with a massage at Health Land Spa, originally an organic health food store and vegetarian restaurant, it’s now a fullyfledged spa centre. This experience is about to pick up speed. Cab it to Lumphini National Boxing Stadium (see p.114) around the corner, which will guarantee adrenaline rushes, as young men kick and punch the hell out of each other. For something less violent, Suan Lum Night Bazaar (see p. 104), a pricier but less sweaty version of Chatuchak is just seconds away. Seafood restaurants abound here and the Joe Louis Puppet Theater (see p.56) is great for a cultural show. There’s also a great beer garden. Once it’s nice and dark, head up to the top floor of the Banyan Tree and ascend the aptly titled Moon Bar at Vertigo (see p. 91). 200 metres above the pavement this bar’s main attraction bangkok 101

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for something a bit more hip, the bars and clubs in Silom Soi 4 will suffice. If you’re gay, look no further than samesex central, Silom Soi 2. And if you’re feeling frisky and don’t mind being harassed by aggressive touts, immerse yourself in the decadent not-sounderworld that is Soi Patpong. Be careful around here and do not follow strangers offering you free shows. But don’t hold back, because whatever you choose to do in this part of town at this time, you’re most likely to wake up with no recollection of it.

is the completely unobstructed 360° Bangkok panorama. Do not stray too far over the railing as the only thing to break your fall here is the concrete sidewalk. Once you’ve soaked it all in, or if your knees are shaking, descend back to street level. The night is still far too young. For some rowdy (and raunchy) times back to Silom you go. There’s still some shopping to be done here as many street vendors are just starting their day selling trinkets, antiques, clothes, and the ever-present t Baza ar dodgy DVDs. If you’re looking Suan Lum Nigh

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M. R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4, #20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 02-286-8185 | Sat-Sun, holidays 10am-5pm, weekdays by appt. only | adults B50, Kids B20. BTS Chong Nonsi Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen in the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail, is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture.

JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) | 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 under 25) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American business- S i g h tบs าeนหม e i n อg มราชวงศ คึกฤทธิ์ man largely responsible for the global 19 ซ. พระพินิจ ถ. สาทรใต popularity of hand woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden BAAN KHAMTHIENG beside a pungent canal, this complex (map D3, #21) 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 | of six traditional teak houses from 02-661-6471~7 | www.siam-society.org around the country is testament to Tues-Sat 9am-5pm | adults B100 | his commitment to maintaining and students B50. celebrating regional art and culture. BTS Asok MRT Each brims with art pieces and antiques Sukhumvit. rescued from around Asia: everything Baan Khamthieng is from limestone Buddha torsos to a an antique wooden cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free house from the tour guides discuss these exquisite north which was painstakingly rebuilt treasures and the much-mythologised in Bangkok. It serves as a museum for life of the man they affectionately call the Siam Society, an organisation which Mr. Jim Thompson. There’s also a shop documents and preserves traditional selling his trademark silk designs, an art Thai culture. It’s a neat place to view gallery and a café. gardens, ancient Thai manuscripts, maps and art. บานไทย จิมทอมปสัน

6 ซ. เกษมสันต 2 ถ. พระราม 1

บานคำเทีย่ ง 131 สุขมุ วิท (อโศก) ซ. 21

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569, 02-628-6300~9 daily 9am-4pm | B100 | dress properly The stately Vimanmek Mansion is the world’s largest teakwood building. This masterpiece was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang in 1868 and then moved piece by piece to Bangkok where it was used by Rama V as his residence. Its 81 rooms are spread over three floors, which overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of Rama V’s possessions collected from international trips, are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom. Other valuable artefacts on display include period antique photographs, fine porcelain, gold and silverware, and superb glassware. Behind the main building, a smaller museum houses a good selection of exquisite Thai handicrafts sponsored by Queen Sirikit’s SUPPORT charity foundation. Converted from the stables, which once housed the king’s albino elephants, the Chang Ton Royal Elephant Museum sports a collection of historical pachyderm paraphernalia. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. If you time your visit right, make it a point to stick around for free traditional Thai dance performances (at 10:30am and 2pm) outside the mansion.

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JIM THOMPSON:THE MAN BEHIND THE MYSTERY

Jim Thompson

Check this out for a CV: a Princeton graduate and former US intelligence officer turns Bangkok socialite, Thai silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s stranger-than-fiction life trajectory makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the luminous sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial verve and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner). Today he’s a brand gone global. You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in countries as far-flung as Argentina and Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling conspiratorial myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. sightseeing

bangkok 101

palaces

Wang Suan Pakkard

THE GRAND PALACE (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B250 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress properly Despite your being able to visit many stunning sights on the Grand Palace grounds, including the incredible Wat Phra Kaew – or Temple of the Emerald Buddha (see. p.33), most of the actual palace is off-limits. As the king has moved his residence to Chitralada Palace in northern Bangkok, the Grand Palace is now only used for major ceremonies or royal functions. Its exterior – an interesting blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth a look and there are a couple of staterooms and halls that are open to visitors. These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the king still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. Multilingual tour guides can be hired here.

พระบรมมหาราชวัง ถ. หนาพระลาน ใกลทองสนามหลวง

PHAYA THAI PALACE (map C3) King Mongkut Hospital | Ratchwithi Rd BTS Victory Monument | Mon-Fri 8:30am- 4:30pm | free Built in 1909, Phaya Thai Palace was a cottage to which Rama V could escape at weekends. It later housed a r adio station, before the whole place was turned into a hospital. The only structure remaining is the Thewaratsaparom Throne Hall, a stunning glassand-wood building that was mostly used as a theatre. The rooms inside are built and decorated in western styles, complete with French doors, a grand staircase, a fireplace and an elaborately carved ceiling. Since the palace is on the King Mongkut Hospital grounds, the banyan trees next to the building are used for shade by the staff, but the palace’s interior is open to visitors. This is a quiet, secluded place for a breather.

พระราชวังพญาไท โรงพยาบาลพระมงกุฏ ถ. ราชวิถี

WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Sri Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | 02-245-4934| daily 9am-4pm | B100 A former market garden, this was c o nve r t e d i n t o a residence and garden by Pr incess Chumbot of Nakhon Sawan. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion, which depicts scenes from the Buddha’s life and the Ramayana.

วังสวนผักกาด ถ. ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี

ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | daily 8:30am-4pm | B20 Previously the parliament building, this stately palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. It is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session but other sessions are held at the new parliament nearby.The interior was influenced by renaissance architecture and the dome is decorated with detailed frescoes of royal ceremonies and festivities.

พระทีน่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ. อูท องใน ดุสติ

Beware! Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the

area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being ‘befriended’ by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a personalised shopping tour for jewelry. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how ofﬁcial they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed for any seemingly logical reason, you are most likely being set up. Our advice is to politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during ofﬁcial opening hours). If you’ve experienced any such scams in Bangkok, please e-mail us so that we can continue to advise fellow travellers.

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

temples

WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | daily 7:30am-5:30pm| B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offer s great views of Chinatown to the south and the old city to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ. จักรพรรดิพงษ

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | daily 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-centur y centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an impor tant university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ทาพระจันทร สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-222-9632 | daily 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน ถ. บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงขามเสาชิงชา

WAT BOWONNIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu 02-281-2831-3 | daily, all day long | free Home to the respected Maha Makut Buddhist U n i v e r s i t y, t h i s temple is particularly impor tant to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ. พระสุเมรุ sightseeing

The Giant Swing

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-628-7947 | daily 8am-6pm B20 This white Italian C ar r ar a mar ble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings.

วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ. พระราม 5

WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-224-8807 | daily 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good for tune.

วัดราชนัดดา ถ. มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hualampong, Charoen Krung Rd, 02-623-1226 | daily 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

bangkok 101

Wat Arun

WAT PHRA KAEW – Temple of the Emerald Buddha (map A3, #9) Na Phra Lan Rd |02-222-0094, 02222-6889 | daily 8:30 am-3:30pm | B250 includes access to Grand Palace and Vimanmek Mansion | dress properly The home to Thailand’s most sacred relic – the Emerald Buddha – and the country’s most stunning temple, Wat Phra Kaew was completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, and forms the northeastern corner of the Grand Palace complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434 when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the stone beneath. It was then moved around northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings before being taken by the Lao to Vientiane. Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and brought it back to Thailand where he placed it at the centre of his new capital. It is the most sacred Buddha image in Thailand, and hundreds pay their respects to it every day. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the majesty of the temple, Wat Phra Kaew also features excellent examples of mural art, documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic.

WAT PO – Reclining Buddha (map A3, #11) Chetuphon/Thaiwong Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | daily 8am-noon, 1-5pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45-metre-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-ofpearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ. เชตุพน

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ. อรุณอัมรินทร ผั่งตะวันตกของแมน้ำเจาพระยา

ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | daily 6:30am- 10:30pm | free | BTS Chit Lom Apart from the many temples across the city, there is a far greater number of small shrines where Thais pay their respects to various deities and spirits. Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which performs for a nominal fee.

วัดพระแกว ถ. หนาพระลาน ใกลทองสนามหลวง

bangkok 101

WAT ARUN Temple of Dawn (map A3, #12) Arun Amarin Rd | 02-465-5640 | www.watarun.org | daily 8am-5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The fivetowered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ. ราชดำริ

sightseeing

Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-224-1333 | www.thailandmuseum. com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B40 Previously a palace dur ing the reign of R a ma V, t he National Museum features extensive displays of T hai ar tefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑสถานแหงชาติ ถ. เจาฟา ใกลทอ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS (map C3) 64 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | 02-263-7700 | www.tillekeandgibbins.com | by appointment only | BTS Chit Lom Condemn it or not, forger y is a huge draw for some. In 1989, the law firm Tilleke & Gibbins decided to convert collected fake goods into educational tools for law students. An entertaining site – fromToblerone chocolate bars to bellybutton rings, from anti-malarial tablets to fake MSG – 1,500 pieces are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals. Call for an appointment and please don’t use it as means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong later that day.

ติลลิกี แอนด กิบบินส พิพธิ ภัณฑสนิ คา ปลอมและเลียนแบบ ซ. ตนสน ถ. เพลินจิต

THE ERAWAN MUSEUM 99/9 Sukhumvit Rd (entering Samut Prakhan) | www.erawan-museum. com | daily 8am-5pm | adults B150, children B50 Outside the city, in a garden of Naga sculptures and other fabled Thai beings, you’ll find this simply unmissable building. Constructed in the shape of a monstrous three-headed elephant named Airavata, it would be a marvel to look at even if it didn’t house ancient artifacts within. Built by the owners of the Ancient City, it is divided into three “worlds”: Underworld contains antiquities like Chakri dynasty tea sets; Earth is a technicolour hall embellished with religious iconography and stained glass; and inside the elephant’s belly is Heaven, a concave space lined with standing Buddhas and abstract murals. The building is also a site of worship. Rumour has it that a Thai girl prayed here before buying what turned out to be a winning lottery ticket!

พิพิธภัณฑชางเอราวัณ ซ. วัดไตรสามัคคี ถ. สุขุมวิท

CHILDREN’S DISCOVERY MUSEUM (map C1) Queen Sirikit Park Kamphaeng Petch 4 Rd | 02-6186509 | www. bkkchildrenmuseum. com | Mon-Fri 9am11am, Sat-Sun 10am6pm | adults B70, children B50 Near the Chatuchak weekend market, this interactive museum aimed at younger guests covers science, nature and the environment. It also hosts regular courses and activity camps.

พิพิธภัณฑเด็กกรุงเทพมหานคร สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจาสิริกิติ์ ถ. กำแพงเพชร 4 ตรงขามสวนจตุจักร sightseeing

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3, #5) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | daily 9am-5pm | B30 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑเรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร

MUSEUM OF SIAM 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free admission Just a few blocks from the Grand Palace, this new Children’s museum is located inside the historic Ministry of Commerce building. Italian architect Mario Tamagno designed the solid three stories, E-shaped Renaissance style building in 1921, inside of which is a series of interactive, animated, theme park-like exhibitions exploring the history of the Siamese people. For adult viewers making sense of each room might be confusing: topics unexpectedly jump from ethnicity to religion to ancient folklore. Kids though will find this an entertaining learning experience, and love playing with the vibrant touch screens.

มิวเซียมสยาม สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ การเรียนรูแหงชาติ ถ. สนามไชย พระนคร bangkok 101

FLORA RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 |5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features.

สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103 (หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร) ประเวศ

CHATUCHAK and QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | daily 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจา สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจักร

QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.20 | Mon-Fri 8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 8:30am-noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B70 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom.

สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู) ถ. พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | daily 8am-6pm| adults B30, kids B5 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around.

the great outdoors

Siam Ocean World

educational 25-minute tour of the 2.8 million litre Oceanarium in a glassbottomed boat. You can even dive with sharks, supervised by instructors from Planet Scuba (www.sharkdive. org). Or opt to watch the penguin or shark feeding (twice daily), or for the Magical Mermaid Show (three times a day).

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

สวนสัตวดสุ ติ 71 ถ. พระราม 5

LUMPHINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free The inner city’s largest stretch of green, this public park is busy as soon as the sun rises. In the early morning hours and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every lilk take advantage of the relative cool to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin.

สวนลุมพินี เขาไดทาง ถ.พระราม 4 ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

river tourism

ntil the beginning of the 20th century Bangkok was devoid of asphalt roads and commerce was conducted by boat on the Chao Phraya River and its canals. The completion of the Taksin Bridge in the 1990s signalled the end of tall ships sailing into Bangkok. Nowadays the river is still an integral part of city life and travelling along it is highly recommended. Not only can you shrink journey times between the city centre and major sights, it’s a relaxing and fun way of getting around. Boats sail past many of the city’s great temples, markets and historic buildings. All manner of craft ply the river’s waters. High-speed river taxis connect a network of piers along both banks; long-tailed boats take visitors on colourful khlong tours of the city’s canals; converted rice barges ferry guests to riverside hotels and tugs pull heavily laden barges. BANGKOK ENVIRONS A great way to enjoy the river is to hire a long-tailed boat to explore the

network of the city’s interconnecting boats near BTS Saphan Taksin station canals. Bangkok is at its greenest and are one easy way to get a taste of most peaceful here, and it’s a relief river travel. Better yet, check out one to escape the stifling traffic for a few of the neat lunch or dinner cruises listed below. hours. Along the river’s main artery are many of Bangkok’s top hotels: The Ori- AYUTTHAYA ental, Shangri-La, Peninsula, Sheraton Okay, it’s a cliché, but leaving the highand Hilton, as well as colonial architec- rise skyline of Bangkok for the ruins ture like the former headquarters of of the ancient capital of Ayutthaya is like a journey into the the Asiatic Trading past. Pass by the suburCompany. River Cruises ban waterways until the Most cruises pass ■ APSARA skyline of spires, stupas Wat Arun before 02-679-1200 and minarets diminish leaving the open river www.banyantree.com ■ CHAO PHRAYA in favour of greener enfor the khlongs of CRUISE 02-541-5599 virons. Ayutthaya boat Bangkok Noi and www.chaophrayacruise.com excur sions are highly Bang Kruay. You can ■ GRAND PEARL recommended. Most day hire long-tailed boats CRUISE 02-861-0255 trips (the Grand Pearl at the Oriental Pier www.grandpearlcruise.com Cruise is popular) go one for around B400 per ■ HORIZON CRUISE way by boat and the othhour. A cheaper op02-266-8165~6 er by bus. Overnighting? tion is to jump on a www.shangri-la.com The intimate Manohra river taxi; scheduled ■ RIVER SUN CRUISE Song and Manohra Dream, stops are highlighted 02-266-9125~6 www.riversuncruise.co.th converted rice barges, ofon the map inside ■ MANOHRA CRUISES fer splendid 3-day cruises, the back cover. Free 02-477-0770 while the Mekhala runs riverside hotel shuttle www.manohracruises.com 2-day trips. ■ MEKHALA 02-253-6992 www.mekhalacruise.com

Mekhala

Chao Phraya

sightseeing

KOH KRED On the way to Ayutthaya, this small river island is home to a Mon community renowned for the quality of their ceramics.There are some interesting Buddhist artefacts on Koh Kred and with no cars on the island, the pace of life is far removed from the bustle of the city. Best by long-tailed boat during the week or on weekends by Chao Phraya Express. bangkok 101

Sightseeing

day tripping

t ’s e a s y g e t t i n g a r o u n d i n Thailand, and there are plentiful wor thwile excursions within e a s y re ac h of B angkok ; so me one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent. AYUTTHAYA The capital of Thailand from the 14th to the 18th centuries it was one of the richest cities in the East during its heyday, but after it was attacked by the Burmese in 1767, most of the city was destroyed. It was then deserted when the capital was relocated to Bangkok and the ruins left to be overtaken by nature. However, over the past 30 years the remnants of the city have been renovated into a UNESCO historical park, which, at 85kms from Bangkok, makes an ideal daytrip from the city. The best way to get to Ayutthaya is by the river and there are trips available for every budget. The major riverside hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City. Once at Ayutthaya, hire a bike and see the highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit, Wat Na Phra Meru, Wat Phra Mahathat and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. LOPBURI Those inspired by the ruins of Ayutthaya can continue the experience in Lopburi, which features ruins from a period spanning over 1,000 years. During

FLOATING MARKETS Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose. ■ DAMNOEN SADUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 15-30 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang. GETTING THERE By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 434-5558). ■ TALING CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday, Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly.

the Dvaravati period (6th-11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo but traces were wiped out by the Khmers, who took over the region during Angkor’s heyday in the 10th century. The Thais subsequently took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. During the reign of King Narai in the 1600s, the city was for a time the country’s second capital when he fortified the city in response to the Dutch navy threatening Ayutthaya. King Narai built a palace in the city, the remnants of which survive to this day and are open to the public. In sightseeing

GETTING THERE By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-424-5448 or 02424-1712). ■ AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season. GETTING THERE By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram. The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram.

addition, the surrounding countryside offers a number of crumbling wats, in a mixture of Khmer and Thai styles. BANG PA-IN SUMMER PALACE Highway 32, 60kms north of Bangkok, Baanlen, Bang Pa-In | 035-26-1044 | daily 8am-4pm | B100 A former Royal retreat, the Royal Palace here is a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly bangkok 101

MUANG BORAN (Ancient City) 296/1 Old Sukhumvit Rd Km 33, Samut Prakan | 02-709-1644-5 | daily 8am-5pm | B300 adults, B200 children Only have a day to see the whole country? The Ancient City was made for you. This museum park, designed in the shape of Thailand, features model representations of its historical buildings, temples and architectural heritage. Renting a bicycle is recommended as the park is fairly large and takes a full day to view properly. Should you want to watch some animal gymnastics before returning to Bangkok, the Samut Prakan Crocodile Farm offers daily crocodile wrestling or elephant shows.

NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120-metre-high chedi, the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century stupa. Situated around 55kms west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in the Kingdom, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history. On the chedi grounds, a small museum displays some interesting Buddhist artefacts and a small shop stocks various related paraphernalia. KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film Bridge on the River Kwai, this town is a popular weekend getaway, offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreign visitors are attracted by the area’s history – the Thai Burma ´Death´ Railway, built by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II, was notorious due to its high casualty count and seemingly impossible route. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The 120-minute trip offers spectacular scenery and the chance to marvel at the extreme difficulties of its construction.

The countryside around Kanchanaburi is also stunning and home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with the nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking opportunities. KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Home to wild elephants, deer, boar, and tigers, as well as uncountable species of birdlife, this enormous forest is one of the world’s best national parks. Visitors can hike through the jungle to altitudes of over 1,000 metres. It’s best to hire a guide as it’s easy to get lost - the park is over 2,000 square kilometres in size, and local maps are not to be completely trusted. NAKHON RATCHASIMA One of Thailand’s silk weaving centres and an important trade hub, this is the country’s largest province and host to Korat, its second-largest city. The surrounding countryside has a fine collection of ancient Khmer ruins, left over from the Angkor period. Of these, worth a visit are Prasat Phanomwan, Prang Ban Ku, Prang Sida and Prasat Hin Phimai, the largest of these ruins and recently restored.

NEARBY BEACHES No time to jet down to Koh Samui or Phuket? A handful of beach resorts and islands close to Bangkok are perfect for much-needed respite. ■ PATTAYA/JOMTIEN Most famous for its seedy nightlife, Pattaya’s been trying – well, sort of – to re-establish itself as a family destination. Hundreds of hotels and eateries ensure competitive prices; sister town Jomtien is still a better option. bangkok 101

Hua Hin

■ KOH CHANG A large jungle-clad hilly gem that’s been found by the deluxe hotel industry. Spending the night in hammocks is impossible, but fantastic beaches are still here. Ferry or fly here via Trat. ■ KOH SAMET A retreat for hip Thai youngsters who invade the island to spend days swimming in clear waters and nights playing the guitar on super-clean beaches.

■ HUA HIN/CHA-AM The royal summer residence town receives hordes of Thai families and package tourists. The long beach is satisfying, and is dotted with plenty of topnotch resorts like Chiva Som, the Evason, Hyatt Regency, Hilton and more. The piers filled with seafood restaurants are more of an attraction, as is the addictive night market. Nearby Cha-am is Hua Hin’s smaller, less developed sister.

sightseeing

Photo courtesy of Tourism Authority of Thailand TAT

reflecting Rama V’s love for Western styles. Bang Pa-In was initially used as a retreat during the Ayutthaya period but was somewhat forgotten when the capital moved south to Bangkok. However it became popular again as travel became easier from Bangkok and King Mongkut (Rama IV) built himself a residence here. Apart from the contrasting architecture of the palace and its beautiful lake and garden, there’s not much of interest to warrant a full day’s visit so many combine the palace with a trip to nearby Ayutthaya.

Sightseeing

day trip

local river cruise is a miniescape from Bangkok, but why not travel a bit further to one of the city’s more untainted provincial getaways? Perhaps the best of the bunch is Koh Kred, a tranquil island in the Chao Phraya that retains the air of bygone times. Although it sits just outside the city limits, in Nonthaburi, Koh Kred is a zillion miles from Bangkok’s hustle; and thus the perfect palliative for jaded city slickers. Ever since an artificial canal created it in 1722, the islet has been populated by ethnic Mon people who’ve managed to preserve their traditional lifestyle by sticking to their ancestors’ livelihood: crafting earthenware pottery. Truly an island unto itself, the leisurely pace is infectious; most visitors take it slow, wandering along elevated walkways, past peddling youngsters, rickety Mon houses, and tiny shops selling crafts and ceramics. Pretty much everything here is lowkey. Expect wooden shacks leaning against palm trees and the occasional old moss-stained shrine or temple around which trees have encroached and bricks toppled. Circling Koh Kred in this fashion won’t take more than a few hours, several stops included, but you can

KOH KRED

also rent bicycles at the main pier. When passing through the rustic villages lined with shops, remember that this is not an open-air museum. Before long you will come across one of several open pottery warehouses. Each morning, artisans fire up their kilns and harden clay products – and inside most you can walk right up to the potter’s wheel. Traditional, handmade, red-black kwan arman is, with its intricate pattern, regarded to be the most attractive unglazed pottery around. Pottery prices start from just B5 per piece, but can rise to hundreds of baht for large ones. Crowd pleasers are ornate candle and incense holders (B200), noodle bowls (B40), and cups with carrying handles, available at any stall selling tea and coffee. Of the 20-plus workshops, you’ll find most in Pottery Village #1 (south of the temple) and Pottery Village #6 (on the north coast). The tranquil, Ayutthaya-

sightseeing

GETTING THERE The easiest way to get here is by organised day tour. Every weekend the Chao Phraya Express Boat (Tel. 02-623-6143; www. chaophrayaboat.co.th) offers guided tours (B300), but they’re not the only ones out there. Intrepid souls take the regular express boat to the northern terminus at Nonthaburi and hire a longtail boat (around B500 return including waiting time). Alternatively, take a taxi to Pak Kred’s Wat Sanam Nua and ferry across the river. style Wat Poramai Yikawat appeals more to locals, but the nearby museum is crammed with intricate earthenware. Here, craftsmen also hold daily demonstrations of theirs skills. Snack on otherwise hard-toget local and Mon treats. A must-try is khao cher, rice served with chilled fragrant water and side dishes: deepfried vegetables, fish, shrimp served in banana leaves. Or dokmai thood – crispy deep fried flowers (tastier than they sound). This Thai tempura can be had at the pier. Don’t forget to try the famous khanom, traditional Thai desserts. And should Koh Kred enchant you into staying, try Baan Dvara Prateep (tel 02-538-4212, 01-8455445; www.baandvaraprateep.com), a holistic retreat offering meditation and yoga courses, classes in traditional crafts, and simple but appealing Thaistyle accommodation. bangkok 101

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up. This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

upcountry festivals

Until 7 Oct

Phuket Vegetarian Festival

Celebrated over nine days each year by the large Thai-Chinese community inhabiting the island, this is not your typical vegetarian festival. Participants observe a strictly vegetarian diet during the festival to purify their bodies and their souls. Accompanied by deafening fire crackers that can be heard from all corners, a series of street processions are held throughout the celebrations. Where things get dicey are in the sacred rituals performed by the devotees, like walking barefoot on hot coals or ascending ladders with knives as rungs. It is believed that the true devotees cannot be harmed because they are protected by holy spirits.

10-14 October

Wax Castle Festival and Princess Sirindhorn’s Cup Long Boat Races

One of the most famous festivals in Thailand, towards the end of Buddhist Lent, takes place in Sakhon Nakorn province, where a grand procession of castles made out of wax parade through town.The festival features traditional Issan traditional performances, folk dances and local OTOP products for sale. It is also accompanied by the very popular Long Boat Races with a trophy from HRH Princess Sirindhorn up for grabs.

10-16 October

End of Buddhist Lent & Naga Fireballs

It has still never been fully explained or understood, but every year during this time a phenomenal occurrence takes place on the Mekhong River. Glowing fireballs rise out of the river, shooting up several hundred metres into the sky before disappearing. This event has gained in prominence since the 2002 film, Mekhong Full Moon Party. Locals believe that the fireballs are produced by Naga serpents, residing under water. Legend has it that the Naga King and Queen shot fireballs into the sky to welcome Buddha back from the tavatimsa heaven. This incredible occurrence can be observed at various spots along the riverbanks in Nong Khai province. bangkok 101

12-13 October

13-15 October

Rap Bua Ceremony

To celebrate the end of Buddhist Lent, the folks in Samut Prakan make good use of the river. Instead of the locals having to journey to a temple to worship a Buddha image, they have one come to them. A Buddha image is placed on a boat and floated down the Samrong River, where locals will toss a lotus (rap bua means “receiving lotuses”) onto the vessel to pay homage. This reflects the area’s legend of the Buddha image that was once seen floating down the river and later fished out by local residents.

25-28 October

The End of Buddhist Lent Under the Floating Lamps

This stunning festival sees the skies decorated to commemorate the end of Buddhist Lent, with the floating lamp competitions. The annual Khon Kaen event also showcases highlights from the province with traditional performances, a festival of local foods, as well as a music competition.

Chonburi Buffalo Races

This tradition takes place every year in Chonburi, before the full moon of the 11th lunar month, coinciding, like everything else on this page, with the end of Buddhist Lent.You should be able to glean what goes on at this very uniquely Thai event, as jockeys and their water buffalos scamper towards the finish line. Other happenings at the event include a buffalo dressing competition, a healthiest buffalo contest, and a Miss Farmer Beauty Pageant. sightseeing

Sightseeing

upcountry escape

ft referred to as the Pearl of the South, Thailand’s largest island emerged from the ravages of the tsunami in 2004 better than before. With Sino-Portuguese heritage, still scintillating beaches and as much “top-end” now as “downmarket”, Phuket offers a lot to the curious traveller – especially during this month’s Chinese Vegetarian Festival.

PHUKET

Photography by TAT

As Thailand’s largest island and its wealthiest province, Phuket stands alone as an island large enough (810 km2) to host its own unique type of culture, combining Portuguese and local sea gypsy influences with a sizeable Thai Muslim population (here, mosques outnumber Buddhist temples) and a dash of Chinese. During a nine-day stretch (September 28 - October 07), it is this Chinese influence that comes to the fore as tourists converge upon Phuket to witness the century old spectacle – and eat the food – accompanying the Chinese vegetarian festival. Its origins date back to 1825 when an opera troupe suffering from illness cured themselves by practising ritual vegetarianism. Believed to bring good luck to individuals and the community at large, the festival has taken place ever since on the first evening of the ninth lunar month until the ninth evening.

sightseeing

bangkok 101

On the eve of the festival, poles are raised at each temple inviting the gods to descend to the earth to preside over festivities that will begin at midnight. At the end the faithful perform merit-making activities at each temple to send off the gods. Visitors can go to any temple to see this, especially in Phuket town, but the ancient Shrine of the Serene Light (San Jao Sang Tham) is especially recommended. For a vantage point over the festivities visitors should trek to Khao Rang (Phuket Hill), which offers a bird’seye view of Phuket town and beyond. A religious vegetarian festival would seem fairly harmless to the uninitiated, but newcomers should prepare to be shocked by the gruesome street processions. Accompanied by rites followers and a cacophony of drums and exploding firecrackers, “possessed” participants commit death-defying acts of self-mutilation such as climbing on ladders made of razor blades, piercing cheeks with steel skewers, or walking on hot coals. These people are said to be possessed by the gods and are either fighting off coming doom by extending their lives through this ritual, or have been chosen by the gods due to their superior moral qualities. Visitors should also take the chance to try the rich variety of vegetarian bangkok 101

cuisines available throughout the festival. To make themselves strong in mind and body, many participants – especially those of Chinese ancestry – keep to a strict no-meat diet for the duration. Street stalls and markets around the island thus sell a wide range of dishes that use soybean and protein substitute products instead of meat. When the festival is over, nature lovers can explore the 23 km2 of virgin rainforest Phuket has to offer at Khao Phra Taew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve, located towards the north of the island. And as one of the world’s top dive destinations, Phuket is a mustsee location for diving enthusiasts. Of particular interest are the small islands to the south (Koh Hae, Koh Raya, Hin Daeng and Hin Muang) and east (Koh Yao). Okay, so perhaps you’re feeling a bit inactive and just want to relax. Ringed with different types of beaches all along its perimeter, Phuket’s resorts present the perfect excuse to turn into a beach bum. Especially recommended are Evason Phuket & Six Senses Spa on Rawai Beach, which adds abundant opportunities to buff and massage as well as bake, and the Twinpalms Hotel at Surin Beach, a well-run establishment with a lovely Sunday brunch. Those tiring of vegetarian fare can also check out the stylish Thai food at Silk, near Twinpalms.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival

EAT, DRINK, STAY n Evason Phuket & Six Senses Spa | Rawai Beach | 076-3811010-7 | www.sixsenses.com/ evason-phuket n Twinpalms Hotel | Surin Beach | 076-316-500 | www. twinpalms-phuket.com n Silk | The Plaza Surin | 076-271702 | www.silkphuket.com GETTING THERE Both THAI (www.thaiair.com) and Air Asia (www.airasia.com) fly several times daily to Phuket International Airport daily. THAI operates over a dozen daily flights from Bangkok, which last a little over an hour, while Bangkok Airways also flies between Samui and Phuket daily. Minibus and taxi services are available to and from the airport. Evason Phuket & Six Senses Spa

sightseeing

Sightseeing

the natural guide

KHAO YAI

Photography by Narut Vatanopas & Peeracha Taatniyom

orat (a.k.a., Nakhon Ratchasima) province’s Khao Yai became Thailand’s first designated National Park in 1962. With 2,166 square kilometres of protected land, the preserve is the third largest in the country. Its 2,000 plant species, 73 mammal species (elephants, deer, tigers, etc.), and 216 butterfly species attract many visitors. Moreover, Khao Yai is the only forest in the world that is home to both Hylobates lar and Hylobates pileatus gibbons. The park is also classified as a Unesco and Asean heritage site. There are no less than 18 walking treks, along which you can peer through the jungle canopy in search of gibbons, great hornbills or the piebald hornbill of India – the outright stars of Khao Yai. And if you’re lucky, you may cross paths with macaques, even elephants. Among the park’s jewels, don’t miss Nam Tok Haew Narok and Haew Suwat waterfalls, which were used as backdrops in Danny Boyle’s film, The Beach, or Nong Pak Chi pond, an excellent site for observing wildlife.

The visitors’ office is 14km away from the entrance and offers a good introduction to the park and its environmental projects. The park is very well managed, but the paths are often long, winding, and well-separated from each other. Therefore, we recommend that you hire a local guide. The best time to visit for wildlife observation is the rainy season (May-October). Avoid holiday weekends, when the whole of Bangkok heads there.

The Natural Guide to Thailand is the third in a series of guide books dedicated to appreciating and respecting people and the environment. Created by the Bumi Kita Foundation (www.naturalguide.org), the book is written by environmentalists, anthropologists, sociologists, journalists and artists – mostly Thais and insiders – who have selected only those businesses that actively demonstrate environmental and social commitment. In each issue, Bangkok 101 presents a destination excerpt from this guide and hopes readers will consider the Natural Guide approach when travelling in Thailand. The Natural Guide to Bali is also available. 42

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bangkok 101

WHAT TO DISCOVER Green Leaf Tours offers one-day-excursions in the park, centred on trekking and bird- and animal-watching. The guides speak English well and can expertly identify different species. They also provide powerful binoculars that are ideal for observing gibbons. While on the tour programme, you will cross a cinnamon and sandalwood tree forest, visit the Nong Pak Chi observation tower, stop by the Haew Surat waterfall, and finally, climb in the local van for a “safari” at nightfall. The B1,300 one-day package includes lunch, anti-leech socks and transportation. Besides typical day hikes, Khao Yai Garden Lodge organises extended jungle treks deep into the park. Focusing on wildlife spotting along the park’s elephant trails, you can either stay overnight in their accommodation or go camping. They also offer tours that tackle the historical heritage of the province, especially the temples of Phimai and Phanom Rung. WHERE TO STAY Nested in the heart of a forest set back from the road, Jungle House’s rooms and bungalows are comfortable and offer pleasant views. The elevated footbridge offers an unusual way to take in the tastefully decorated grounds. As the Jungle House is an upscale vacation resort that serves a primarily Thai clientele, communication in English may be somewhat difficult. A little farther away from the park, in the heart of the KhaoYai hills, Saptai Cabbages & Condoms Hotel commands a splendid panorama of its natural surrounds. The hotel offers pleasant rooms with all the modern comforts, or tents in the garden. The open swimming pool has a jacuzzi and is perfect for relaxing.The hotel offers excursions in the park, visits to neighbouring farms or vineyards, and tours of local environmental-projection projects. Travellers who stay here get to soak up this idyllic place, and contribute to the financing of projects for rural development, education, AIDS prevention, and environmental

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protection carried out by the Population and Community Development Association of Thailand. Located on the border of Khao Yai, rooms at Khao Yai Garden Lodge are clean if not a tad rundown. However, the resort is delightful: overrun with ivy and climbing plants and featuring a swimming pool. Staff speak English and German and are fountains of knowledge about the park. STAY Jungle House | 3.5km before the park entrance, on the left while coming from Pak Chong | 04-429-7183 or 7307 | www.junglehousehotel.com Saptai Cabbages & Condoms Hotel | 40km away from Khao Yai | 03-622-7065, 02-229-4611 ext. 102 (Bangkok) | www.pda.or.th/saptai Khao Yai Garden Lodge | by the milestone, 7km along road from Pak Chong to Khao Yai |04-436-5178 | www. khaoyai-garden-lodge.com DISCOVER Green Leaf Tours | 044-365-073 | www.greenleaftour.com Khao Yai Garden Lodge | See STAY GETTING THERE Buses leave the Northern Bus Terminal (Mor Chit 2 Bus Terminal) in Bangkok every 30 minutes, all day. Tickets cost around B227 for the 3 hour plus journey to Pak Chong market, after which you need to take a song thaew pick-up taxi to Khao Yai (less than an hour). For more information please call 02-936-2841~48 or visit www. transport.co.th If driving, take Highway No.1 (Phahon Yothin) from Bangkok to Saraburi and then take Highway No.2 (Mitraparp Highway) from Saraburi to Nakhon Ratchasima. The total distance is 259km. sightseeing

Sightseeing

over the border

MACAU

This once quiet seaside goddess is wide awake

limmering towers of glitz and greed, crisscrossed with Portuguese restaurants, Mediterranean chapels and churches reflecting almost half a millennium under colonial rule. A contrast of the most overt kind, reminding us of its rich history, yet at the same time enunciating how those days have long since passed. Today flocks of visitors flood the streets, hopping off the boat hour after hour, many arriving with bagfuls of cash. Most leave it here. This is modern China. This is Macau. The first and last colony in China, this little strip of land (no more than 30 square kilometres), appropriately referred to as the Las Vegas of Asia, is seeing its best and brightest days. Just a four hour flight from Bangkok, or a short ferry ride from Hong Kong, Macau consists of three areas, the main Macau peninsular, and two

islands, Taipa and Coloane. For firsttimers, due to its fairly compact size almost everything is accessible on foot and it will be easy to get around. The autumn (Oct-Dec) sea breeze makes it the best time of year to visit this former Portuguese outpost. Upon arrival you may be blinded by all the casinos, however if you can put your chips down and just step into daylight for a while, it’s obvious that this former island (a gradually expanding sandbar has made it a peninsular) isn’t just one big slot machine. Portuguese fingerprints are everywhere, and despite the claims of some resorts, Macau’s most famous attraction is the ruins of the historic St. Paul’s Cathedral. Just above the ruins is what remains of an old fort, Fortaleza de Monte which has been transformed into the town’s main museum. sightseeing

Also of interest is the A-Ma temple, the most famous Chinese temple in Macau. According to legend this is a shrine to Matsu, the goddess of seafarers, and the source of the island’s name (originally A-Ma-Gau, or Bay of A-Ma). All of these landmarks are part of the Historic Centre of Macau which has been branded a Unesco world heritage site. If you let your mind drift for a moment you might think you’ve stumbled into Lisbon. For some modern attractions, the Macao Tower, modelled after Auckland’s Sky Tower, and the site where the world’s highest bungee jumping record was set, provides an amazing panoramic view of the glittering lights. There’s definitely some good eating to be had too, as the mixture of Chinese and Portuguese cultures surely produces some interesting flavours. You may not guess it from bangkok 101

GETTING THERE ■ Air Macau www.airmacau.co.th ■ Air Asia www.airasia.com EAT ■ A Lorcha 289a Rua do Almirante Serigo | 2831-3193 | ■ Restaurante Fernando 9 Praia de Hac Sa, Coloane Island | 2888-2264 STAY & GAMBLE ■ The Venetian Macao The Cotai Strip | 2882-8888 | www.venetianmacao.com MORE INFORMATION www.cityguide.gov.mo www.macautourism.gov.mo

Photography by Katia Grau

the name, but some of the most famous dishes in Macau include the likes of bacalhau, or dried codfish, and African chicken, a dish symbolic of the significant role this area played in the historic spice trades. A Lorcha, near the A-ma Temple, is one of the best Macanese restaurants around. Down on Coloane’s Hac Sa bay, Restaurante Fernando is also worth mentioning for its casual fare which is popular among both locals and tourists. And while you’re in that area stop by the intriguing black sand beaches. With that said, yes the recent surge of popularity has been almost entirely due to the gambling industry and if that’s what you’re here for you will not be disappointed. The nights might be brighter than the days around here as the neon signs guide you, and your wallet, around. It’s teeming with 5 (some claim 6) star resorts including the recently opened Venetian Macao, the largest casino in the world. For an idea of this complex’s grandeur, it is the second largest building of any kind on the face of the earth, only losing out to the Boeing Jumbo jet factory. This is basically Disneyland for adults. Are we really in communist China? Like the mainland’s illegitimate child of Western capitalistic ideals and colonial splendour, it has proven too beautiful, and lucrative, to be disowned. So what are you waiting for? Grab that dice and start rolling!

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional

Tang Contemporary Art

absorption of all things American and whom are now receiving significant European, many of Thailand’s fresh- international exposure, though there faced generation of artists are infatuated is an increasing number of regional with the street-style, urban iconography Asian artists displaying their works, at of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, prices often cheaper than in countries Korea and like Singapore, China increasingly and Vietnam. “Prices for art in China. Whether hoping Bangkok are more An indicator to per use some realistic and of the growing reasonable than over- e m e r g i n g l o c a l profile of Thai art protagonist, or inflated, fashionable could be in the purchase something art centres in America, a b i t m o r e proliferation of Europe and new commercial commercial or increasingly China.” galleries that have traditional, one thing’s opened in the last for certain – prices couple of years, with Bangkok gaining for art in Bangkok are more realistic over a dozen new venues in different and reasonable than over-inflated, areas across the city.These include artist fashionable ar t centres in America, -run spaces such as printmaker and Europe and increasingly China. sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey You’ll soon realise that the city cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s doesn’t have a concentrated artistic hotbed of young conceptualists at enclave; rather, there are small pockets Gallery VER. of galleries, auction houses and While Thailand’s ongoing political antiques shops randomly dispersed debacle has complicated ar tistic throughout the city. Commercial planning, the decade-plus wait for the galleries are spread across town and new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre is a little route planning is advised before over. It’s currently in its soft-opening embarking on a day of gallery musing. period, with news of exhibitions, On the following page is a selection performances and the like expected to of noteworthy galleries about town. roll out in the coming months. Steven Pettifor is the editor of the GALLERIES Bangkok Art Map (BAM!), and author The majority of contemporary art on of Flavours:Thai Contemporary Art. He view in Bangkok is produced by is available as a consultant to art domestic practitioners, several of buyers; stevenpe@loxinfo.co.th ar ts

bangkok 101

■ 100 Tonson Gallery (map C3) 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-684-1527 | Thurs-Sat 11am-7pm | www.100tonsongallery.com

100 ตนสนแกลลอรี่ ซ.ตนสน ถ.เพลินจิต

■ Ardel Gallery of Modern Art (map D4) 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromrachachonanee Rd (Km 10.5) | 02-422-2092 | Tues-Sun 10am6pm | www.ardelgallery.com

อารเดล ถ.บรมราชชนนี

■ Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (map C3) Pathumwan Junction, Opposite MBK shopping mall | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630~1 | 10am - 9pm

หอศิลปวฒ ั นธรรมกรุงเทพฯ ตรงขามมาบุญครอง

■ Bangkok University Art Gallery (map D4) Bangkok University Gallery Bldg, Kluaynam Thai campus | Rama IV Rd | 02-350-3500 | Tues-Sat 9:30am-7pm

มหาวิทยาลัยกรุงเทพ กลวยน้ำไท ถ.พระราม 4

■ Chulalongkorn Art Center (map C3) Fl 7, Center of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, Phayathai Rd | BTS Siam | 02218-2965 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm

จุฬาลงกรณมหาวิทยาลัย ถ.พญาไท

■ Eat Me (map C4) Soi Phi Phat 2, Convent Rd | BTS Saladaeng 02238-0931 | daily 3pm-1am | www.hgallery.com

อีท มี 1/6 ซ.พิพัฒน 2 ถ.คอนแวนต

จุฬาลงกรณมหาวิทยาลัย ถ.พญาไท

■ Jim Thompson House Art Center (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 | 9am-5pm | www. jimthompsonhouse.com

เอช แกลลอรี่ 201 ซ.12 ถ.สาทร

■ Hof Art (map D1) 244-248 Soi Vibhavadi Rangsit 16/32 Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd | MRT Ratchadaphisek | 02-690-1347-8 | Tue-Sat 10:30am-6pm | www.hofart.net

ฮอฟ อารต วิภาวดีรังสิต ซ.16/32

■ Jamjuree Gallery (map C3) Jamjuree Building 8, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Siam | 02-218-3709,

บานไทย จิมทอมปสัน 6 ซ.เกษมสันต 2 ถ.พระราม 1

คัดมันดู โฟโต แกลลอรี่ ซ.วัดแขก สีลม

■ Surapon Gallery (map C4) Fl 1, Tisco Tower, 48/3 N. Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-638-0033 | Tue-Sat 11am-6pm

ละลานตา ไฟนอารต หัวมุม ซ.สีลม 19

■ Tadu Contemporary Art (map D2) 99/2 Tiamruammit Rd | MRT Thai Cultural Centre | 02-6450-2473 | Mon-Sat 9am6pm | www.tadu.net

มหาวิทยาลัยศิลปากร ถ.หนาพระลาน

■ Kathmandu Photo Gallery (map B3~4) 87 Pan Rd, (near Indian Temple), off Silom Rd | BTS Chong Nongsi | 02-234-6700 | Tues-Sun 11am-7pm | www.kathmandu-bkk.com

สุรพล แกลลอรี่ อาคารทิสโก ถ.สาทร

■ La Lanta Fine Art (map B3~4) 657 Unit B10, Silom Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02260-5381, 02-204-5083 | Tues-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat noon-9pm, Sun til 7pm | www.lalanta.com

หอศิลปตาดู ถ.เทียมรวมมิตร

■ National Gallery (map A3) 4 Chao Fah Rd | 02-281-2224 | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm

พิพิธภัณฑสถานแหงชาติ 4 ถ.เจาฟา

■ Tang Contemporary Art (map B4) Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-630-1114 | www.tangcontemporary.com

อาคารสีลมแกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

■ Teo & Namfah Gallery (map B4) 331, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak l 02-237-5568 l Mon-Sat 10.30am7pm l www.teonamfahgallery.com

นำทอง แกลลอรี่ ถ.เทอดดำริ ดุสิต

■ Thavibu Gallery (map B4) Suite 308, Fl 3, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak| 02-266-5454 | Tue-Sat 11am7pm, Sun 12am-6pm | www.thavibu.com

หอศิลปสมเด็จพระนางเจาสิรกิ ติ ฯ ถ.ราชดำเนิน

■ Gallery Ver (map A3) Fl 2, 71/31-35 Klongsarn Plaza, Charoen Nakorn Rd, Thonburi | 02-861-0933 | WedSun 12am-7pm | www.verver.info

โรทันดา แกลลอรี่ หองสมุดนิลเซน เฮส ถ.สุรวงศ

■ Whitespace (map C2) Fl 2, 260 Lido Bldg, Siam Square Soi 3 | BTS Siam | 02-252-2900 | Tues-Sun 111.30 am8pm | www.whitespaceasia.com

ถัง คอนเทมโพรารี อารท สีลมแกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

■ Number 1 Gallery (map B3~4) Room # B15 Silom Galleria, 919 Silom Rd BTS Surasak | 08-6524-6152 | www.number1gallery.com | Mon-Sat 10am-7pm

เทีย่ ว น้ำฟา สีลมแกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

ทวิบู แกลลอรี่ สีลม แกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

■ The Queen’s Gallery (map A3) 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd | 02-281-5360 | Thur-Tue 10am-7pm | www.queengallery.org

แกลลอรี่ เวอร คลองสาน พลาซา ถ.เจริญนคร

■ Rotunda Gallery (map C4) Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-233-1731 | Tue-Sun 9:30am5pm | www.neilsonhayslibrary.com

ไวทสเปซ ลิโด สยามสแควร ซ.3

■ Silom Galleria Art Space (map C4)

april 2008

FROM THE PUBLISHERS OF

by Jirapat Tatsanasomboon

by Nitipong Thinthupthai

Exhibition Spotlight

Tomyam Pladib

The 5 Bangkok Experimental Film Festival

Exhibition Spotlight

Current Exhibitions

Gallery Directory

The most interesting shows across town

Detailing the capital’s best viewing spaces

From the publishers of ar ts

Ripe Project:

the Village and Harvest Time By Sakarin Krue-on

Current Exhibitions

Exhibition Spotlight

SPONSORED BY

An Inner Dialogue With Frida Kahlo (Collar of Thorns)

gkok Ar t Map

February 2008

March 2008

FREE

FROM THE PUBLISHERS OF

Bangkok Art Map

bangkok 101

สีลม แกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

■ Silpakorn University Gallery (map A3) 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (op. Grand Palace) | 02-623-6120, ext 1418 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm | www.su.ac.th

For the latest scoop on Bangkok’s art scene, pick up a free copy of BAM! citywide at art galleries, cultural centres or from your hotel concierge.

EVERY MONTH

Ban

Unit B24-25, B1 Floor | 02-630-3381 | MonSat 10am-9pm, Sun 11am-8pm

■ Numthong Gallery (map C2) 1129/29,31 Co-Op Housing Building | Toeddamri Rd, Dusit | BTS Ari | 02-243-4326 | Mon-Sat 11am-6pm

■ H Gallery (map B4) 201 Soi 12, Sathorn Rd | BTS Surasak | 08-1310-4428, 02-310-4428 | Thurs-Sat noon-6pm, Sun-Wed by appointment | www.hgallerybkk.com

FREE

galleries

0-2218-3633~6 | Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat, Sun & Holidays noon-6pm

Spiritual Spaces

The most interesting shows across town

Gallery Directory

Ripe Project: the Village and Harvest Time

Current Exhibitions

The most interesting shows across town

Gallery Directory

Detailing the capital’s best viewing spaces

www.bangkokartmap.com 47

photo feature

Arts

performing arts Theatres

AKSRA THEATRE (map C3) King Power Complex, 8/1 Rangnam Road, Phayathai | 02-677-8888 ext. 5678 | Tues-Sun 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm & 7pm | B800 | www.aksratheatre.com In this spectacular new 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, bear witness to hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา ถ.รางน้ำ

JOE LOUIS PUPPET THEATER (map C4) Suan Lum Night Bazaar, 1875, Rama IV Rd | 02-252-9683~4 | daily 7:30pm | adults B300, children B200, VIP B500 | www.joelouis-theater.com A live puppet show might sound like it’s aimed at kids, but this one is intriguing for all. The one-hour show follows the story of the Ramakien. The large puppets are incredibly lifelike; the scenes are colourful and fun to watch – so even adults enjoy the show. Arrive early to observe the production of traditional masks.

โรงละครหุนโจ หลุยส ถ.พระราม 4

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com, www. bangkokconcerts.com SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) Aksra Theatre 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eye-popping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ. เทียมรวมมิตร

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are world-class.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-224-1342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแหงชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง

RAM THAI (THAI TRADITIONAL DANCE)

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms.The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.33), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.30), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more inﬂuenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.83). 56

ar ts

bangkok 101

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres. These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on. ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE (map C4) 29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02670-4200 | Mon-Sat 10am-6pm | www. alliancefrancaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศส กรุงเทพ 29 ถ .สาทร

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3) 254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคานซิล สยามสแควร

GOETHE INSTITUT (map C4) 18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-287-0942~4 ext.22 | daily 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ สาทร ซ. 1

cultural centres

JAPAN FOUNDATION (map D3) Serm-mit Tower, Fl 10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-2608560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวนเดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ BANGKOK MUSIC SOCIETY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ BANGKOK SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ THE BELGIAN CLUB OF THAILAND (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com Goethe Institut

TCDC (THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTRE)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly good at opening your mind and eyes to curious international design concepts; be it Vivienne Westwood’s fearlessly non-conformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have WHERE 6th Fl., The interpreted their cultural uniqueness Emporium Shopping Complex to create 20th century design classics; Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art Phrom Phong 02-664-8448 library. With over 16,000 rare books, www.tcdc.co.th OPEN a large selection of multimedia, even a 10:30am – 9pm Tue-Sun textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. In-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track. bangkok 101

ar ts

Arts

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, Kiss of The spid state-of-the-art movie theatres Women @6th World er Film Fes tiva l of Tha iland showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido, screen less common independent and international films. Foreign films are mostly screened in their native languages with subtitles in Thai. For artsy fare, check out the regular screenings at culture centres like the Alliance Française, Goethe Institut and Japan Foundation – most movies are shown with English Please subtitles. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100stand quietly 180. The best place to check screening times is on the while the national daily-updated www.movieseer.com, which just about anthem is played every Bangkokian uses before going to the movies. in respect to Thailand’s king. Thai Cinema Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

APEX Lido, Siam and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02-251-2861, Siam 02-251-3580

โรงภาพยนตลโิ ด สยาม และสกาลา สยามสแควร ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Grand (Gold Class) Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-812-9999

สยามดิสคัฟเวอรรเ่ี ซ็นเตอร ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Metropolis (Gold Class) Big-C Ratchadamri (opp. Central World Plaza), Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chitlom | 02-812-9999

บิก๊ ซี ราชดำริ ตรงขามเซ็นทรัล เวิลดพลาซา ถ. ราชดำริ

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177

เฮาส อารซเี อ ถ. พระรามเกา

Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444

มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร ถ. พญาไท

These Screens are Gold

You enter the dimly lit room, chiffon drapes sway against the wall as the cool air flows against your skin. Settling into the velvet sofa, complimentary drinks are whisked in front of you. Soon you are led to a separate area. Dark and hard to navigate, you are guided to your seat in this chilly chamber. Reclining back, a blanket is pulled over your body, covering you up for whatever thrills that may ensue. By now it’s more than obvious where you’ve been lured..... To the movies of course!! In Thailand you can fly in cinematic first class, which is possible for roughly the same price as your old neighbourhood theatre back home. All of the above, including seat-side waiter service, is available for around B300, although Paragon charges at least double.

SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-9333

เอ็มโพเรียม สุขมุ วิท 24

SF WORLD CINEMA 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-268-8888

เซ็นทรัลเวิลดพลาซา ถ. ราชดำริ

Paragon Cineplex

Where’s the gold?

ar ts

bangkok 101

reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent book shops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used. 101 THAI FORMS Wijit Apichartkriengkrai | bilingual (Thai/ Eng) | art4d | 352pp If the little things – your everyday ephemera – are what make a culture, Thailand is in trouble. That’s the overarching gist of this dinky coffeetable book, the opening of which finds the author lamenting a fake plastic age in which synthetic foreign crap has usurped organic Thai forms. It’s not as po-faced as it sounds.Wijit quickly hops off his soapbox, after which you’re on a colourful, kaleidoscopic nostalgia ride. It’s a blast browsing these 101 sassy vignettes sketching the native foods, games, trinkets, tricks and toys of his rural childhood – among them things as useless as coconut husk stilts and as useful as banana-leaf food wrappers. But, on the ﬂip, it’s also sobering to realise that most have, “like some species of wildlife”, faded from sight and memory. A bittersweet but amusing read to slot on your shelf alongside a copy of Thai pop culture bible Very Thai.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai ﬁlm. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong or CD Warehouse outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English subtitles and DVD region compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkﬁlm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

KLONGS Pamela Hamburger | Bangkok Book House Co | 140pp Arguably the big -gest losers in Bangkok’s slapdash modernisation have been its khlongs, or canals. For proof, take a trip down Klong Saen Saeb: along this poisonous central waterway you are more likely to see people holding their noses than glimpses of the fabled “Venice of the East”. And this is one of the lucky ones – many were filled in to make way for roads. This book offers a collection of interviews with those living along remaining subsidiary khlongs – ladies, as old as their wooden homes, mostly – topped off with Hamburger’s boatbound snapshots. What emerges is mainly a sad indictment of Bangkok’s environmental negligence, and a testimony to the resilience of these stoic water communities. Most edifying though are the anthropological insights to be gleaned from the stories, which span everything from local Muslim/ Buddhist relations and dying handicrafts to watery ghost tales.

KOH SAMUI / PHUKET ENCOUNTERS China Williams/ Adam Skolnick | Lonely Planet | 140pp/176pp Guidebooks have been miniaturising their wares for a while now; trailblazers Lonely Planet included. Perhaps it’s because the slightly smug Luxe guides have proven you can be succinct without over-simplifying. Perhaps because being caught consulting a thick brick of a guidebook while out and about is, in traveller circles, only slightly less humiliating than being caught with your (fisherman) pants down. These two Encounters guides, slim enough to zip into your Gucci purse, pack in all their seasoned author’s deem exciting about these two tourist magnets/bleachwhite sandy isles. Omitting the trite and trashy, they gravitate towards the bars, restaurants, spas and resorts that pack a little panache. The resulting highlights, itineraries, what to see/do/buy/eat lists should satisfy the yearnings of most short-stay urbanites – if not the more adventurous.

INSEE TONG (GOLDEN EAGLE) Mit Chaibancha | 1970 | DVD B250 One in a series of classic Thai films recently re-released on DVD, Insee Tong is a cult hit not only for its unbelievably camp anti-communist slant, but for its notoriety as star Mit Chaibancha’s last feature – the actor and director fell from a helicopter to his death while filming the final scene. The storyline presents the usual rigmarole – a masked vigilante hero who isn’t above playing his ﬂashlight beam all over a sleeping damsel’s legs, mistaken-identity conundrums, the obligatory dude-in-drag fight scene, complete with black-panty ﬂashing. Real gems include the Uncle Ho-esque brainwasher/soulsplitter commie villain and the howlingly overthe-top voice dubbing. Insee Tong is a bona fide cultural artifact – check out the towering beehive hairdos and the wokka-wokka soundtrack – and also a fascinating cinematic glimpse into the political and sociological anxieties of the time. Not so welcome is the macabre extra: a grainy home video of Mit’s bruised corpse being paraded in front of a grieving public at his funeral. ar ts

Photographs by

[

Tales From The CiTy

CATHERINE KARNOW

]

atherine Karnow’s vibrant and sensitive style of photographing people appears regularly in National Geographic. Born and raised in Hong Kong, but now based in San Francisco, she has shot subjects as

disparate as Prince Charles, Australian aborigines, Bollywood film stars and Vietnam’s Agent Orange victims.

For Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom, Bangkok’s stoic yet open (and

rarely camera shy) people were her focus. The resulting photos – typically close-ups of one or two people, a world of contextual detail behind them – have an inquiring, narrative, at times cinematic quality; not to mention an intimacy that has you itching to know more about the subject.

n A stylist attends to Channel 3 morning news anchor Krittika Sakmanee. During the popular news show, the hosts review the morning headlines. More than threequarters of Thais are believed to receive their news from television shows.

n Pinyo Pongcharern, an astrologer and president of the Association of Astrology, is held in high esteem among Thais. High-ranking politicians, generals, businessmen and everyday people alike regularly consult fortunetellers and often pay high fees for their advice and predictions.

n This chef, surrounded by fresh ingredients and cooking utensils, is serving up some local fast-food: a steaming stir fry.

Locals walk through the stalls at the annual Suphan Buri fair. Fairs and festivals are an important part of the cultural fabric of Thailand and there is unlikely to be a town in the country that does not host one.

From ] [ Tales The CiTy

n A monk browses Buddhist collectables at the amulet market, near Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wat Mahathat temple. Aside from being popular with the religious and superstitious, people also come here to pick up second-hand false teeth.

n On a train out of Bangkok, a young boy snaps a shot of the photographer. Next to him stands a vendor selling plastic animal toys â&#x20AC;&#x201C; entertainment for juvenile passengers during what is often a slow crawl into the provinces.

From ] [ Tales The CiTy

n A member of Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wellto-do elite tends to her earring at the start of a glitzy charity event.

n Many of Bangkok taxi drivers adorn their dashboards with talismans and auspicious pictures, invoking a guardian spirit who will provide them with safe passage through the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chaotic streets.

n A tattoo artist places a por gare mask over the head of his praying client, a tattoo initiation ritual called khrob kru.

From ] [ Tales The CiTy

n Vivid reds and golds dominate at an elaborate royal funeral procession.

n This marching band parade, held at the annual football game between Chulalongkorn and Thammasat universities, is a good example of how young showboating Thais lap up ersatz Americana.

THAILAND:

DAYS IN THE KINGDOM

The pictures here come from the Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom project, which was organised by Singapore publisher Editions Didier Millet (EDM). For nine days, between January 14 and January 22, 2007, 55 of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest photographic minds from 18 nations gathered in Thailand. Their mission was to create a visual time capsule of the great kingdom to mark the 80th birthday of His Majesty the King. Across the country, hundreds of priceless moments were snapped up and immortalized on celluloid, featuring Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s people and wildlife, land scapes and cityscapes, smiles and struggles. The work has been presented in a stunning, large-format coffee table book called Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom, filled with Thailand from every possible angle. The 304-page book, with no less than 425 photographs from the project, includes a free DVD with two behind-the-scenes documentaries, and is on sale at B2S, Kinokuniya and Asia Books for B1,750. It is a rare opportunity and a must-have for anyone fascinated by Thailand. www.9days-inthekingdom.com www.edmbooks.com

Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby. The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community.

Fireplace Grill

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms! Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed lateKiosk night appetites (see p.75). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anythingonce daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT $ under B400 The price guide to the right indicates what you $$ B400 – B1,000 can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 including drinks. Many restaurants run special $$$$ over B2,000 deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means a service charge (typically 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill. Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 60

food & drinks

bangkok 101

Rossini’s, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Utage,Plaza Athénée

Gaetano Palumbo, the creative force behind the awardwinning Italian restaurant Rossini’s, has just finished sprucing up what was an already formidable menu. Expect new dishes like roasted veal tonnato with red onion and marinated capsicum; and pigeon breast with crispy duck liver, mashed potato and liquorice. Call 02- 6498364.

The Brasserie, Holiday inn Silom

loop italian, Pathumwan Princess Hotel There are almost as many theories as to how best to make risotto, Italy’s greatest traditional rice dish, as there are different variations. Throughout October, chef Stefano will be touting some of his own, including risotto with Italian sausage, porcini mushrooms and saffron, and a very special Savare risotto covered with roast beef. Call 02-216-3700 ext. 20818

bangkok 101

meal deals

Renowned for its exquisite flavour, tenderness and marbled texture, Matsuzaka beef is right up there in the pantheon of world’s finest meats. Chef Tanom brings it down to earth with these refined dishes: Matsuzaka sashimi, maki rolls, shabu shabu, Matsuzaka beef layered with foie gras and Matsuzaka beef with Alaskan king crab. Call 02-6508800 ext. 4337 for more info.

Say “Prost!” to this year’s Oktoberfest with a boozy buffet at The Brasserie. The world’s most jolly food and drink hoedown will get the justice it demands, throughout October: mugs of German beer plus specialties like pea soup with smoked ham, Munich boiled sausage with brown sauce, grilled grouper with lemon & pink pepper corn sauce, and, of course, sauerkraut! Call 02-238-4300

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

thai cuisine

Did you know?

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desser ts social affair in or savoury mousses Thailand. are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared. 62

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

kaeng khiao wan gai (green curry chicken )

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom kha gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam nua.......spicy beef salad Gai yarng..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng phet pet yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng khiao wan gai.....green curry chicken Phad kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sacred basil Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao.......................coconut juice Nam krajeab .............rosella flower juice Nam matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam tao hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha yen............................Thai iced tea with condensed milk bangkok 101

thai sweets Thai Fruits

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits (polamai) are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

October is best for: COCONUT

Coconut (Ma-Praow) As prolific as you can get, this tropical fruit headlines Thai cuisine in far too many ways. Available in many stages of maturity, there is a green, almost undeveloped coconut, which once cracked open, just stick a straw in and drink up. Its juice is a popular refreshing drink on its own and also a useful mixer for many tropical cocktails. A slightly more mature version can often be found in markets where all the skin is chopped off leaving its white core with the bottom carved flat so you can sit it on the table in between sips. Its meat is used in many desserts and also in savoury dishes like Tom Yam soup. Once the coconut matures its meat is grated and turned into one of the most indispensable item in Thai cooking, coconut cream. Curries, countless desserts and dishes just do not happen without this ingredient. Not surprisingly it is available all year.

Try also: watermelon (taeng-mo), pomelo (som-o), guava (farang), banana (kluay), papaya (malakor), mangosteen (mong-koot), lychee (lyn-chee), jackfruit (kanoon), mango (ma muang), rambutan (ngoh).

Kanom Thai

The word kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorised as a kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This : KHAO NIEW KAEW

Khao niew kaew is made out of glutinous rice, sugar and of course coconut cream and often comes with a pandanus scent. It gets its name, which means glass sticky rice, from its clear complexion. Today it is often served to monks during religious festivals particularly at the beginning and end of Buddhist lent. Kanom Bueng – Crispy crêpes with coconut whip filling Kanom Krok – Mini coconut cream hotcakes Kanom Chun – Layered pandan jelly bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

SUKHUMvIT SoI 38 Directly beneath the Thong Lo BTS station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to Bangkok’s revellers. Sample the delicate, handmade egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. SURAWonG A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near the Patpong Night Market. In front of the Wall Street Building; be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am.

ealikte

Nym

PRATUnAM Midnight Chicken Rice! There are two shops at the intersection; the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. CHInAToWn Shops fill the streets after dark. There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door.

ood is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. The city is famed for its scrumptious street food. Bangkokians eat out day and night, and locals know exactly what to get and where. on every street you’ll spot mobile vendors; some open for lunch only, others open all night. you’ll often find clusters of vendors in one place, selling all kinds of rice and noodle dishes. you can always eat out in restaurants, but don’t miss some of the wonderful street specialities.

Food Courts

Nearly all Bangkok department stores and malls dedicate ample space to food courts, culinary havens where you’ll find all the best local street food and more in air-conditioned surroundings. They are super-clean cheap, and many stands display pictures of the dishes – food courts make for the perfect initiation to Thai street food. Pick and choose – it will be tallied up as you go; you pay as you leave. Among our faves, try Central Chidlom, CentralWorld, Siam Paragon, Emporium and MBK (see p. 100).

our roving street-food eater nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

SALAD KHAEK

Along Silom Road is a strikingly colourful Hindu Temple. Opposite it is a line of vibrant stalls full of colourful flowers – and behind them a delicious restaurant! The name, Krou Aroy Aroy, means “super delicious kitchen”. And it’s exactly that. This low-key restaurant, tucked between holy Hindu figurines, serves local cuisine from allaround the country. The southern curry, kaeng loeng, has a bright yellow color from the turmeric and is hot but refreshing. Whenever I’m craving southern curry this is where I get my fix. I never forget to cool down its spiciness with a special salad called salad khaek (coincidently, wat khaek is also the common name of the temple). Salad khaek has a totally different character to your ordinary salad. To me the most important component, what makes it special, is the peanut dressing. It’s the perfect blend of 3 flavours: sweetness, sourness (from tamarind sauce) and a bit of saltiness. A pinch of spice brings it all together into a rounded, satisfying taste. Mixing this simple set of vegetables – cucumber, green lettuce, onion, crispy fried sweet potatoes, fried tofu and boiled eggs sliced bite-size – with the peanuts dressing is, for me, a religious experience. Pick a seat facing out towards the temple and you can enjoy the sight of merit makers passing by while you tuck into this simple but beautiful dish. Go at different times of day and you will find different sets of food. Address: open every day, Krou Aroy Aroy is in Soi Pan (Soi Wat Khaek), Silom Rd. once you’ve walked into the soi it’s on the left hand side, beside all the flowers and holy Hindu items on display. 64

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KHIn LoM CHoM SAPHAn (map A2) 11/6 Samsan Soi3, Samsan Rd. | 02-628-8382 | www.khinlomchomsaphan.com | daily 11am-2am | $ Bangkok’s white collars flock nightly to this big open-air seafood restaurant with, on a busy night, the bonhomie of a German beer hall. Smart white pavilions provide shelter during tropical squalls; otherwise, wait for a table on the breezy wooden terrace with photogenic views of monolithic Rama VIII Bridge. It’s convivial and it’s casual. Feast on succulent seafood, quaff beer, and raise a cheer – as the locals do – when the live acoustic strummery hits the spot.The aromatic tod man pla (Thai fishcakes) are excellent. But there’s a hundred-plus dishes of more adventurous sea fare worth trying, dishes like the sprightly yum sam sub (prawn, oyster and squid salad), and pla krapong neung manow (steamed tender monkfish in a spicy lemon sauce). A sweet yet faintly tart gaeng som bpuu khai (soft crab in a compulsive tamarind soup) also impressed. Two caveats: orders taken from foreigners are marked thus and the kitchen tones them down accordingly (if you like the unholy sweats, tell them); secondly, bring your camera.

กินลมชมสะพาน สามเสน ซ.3

bangkok 101

restaurants

Khin lom Chom Saphan

TonGUE THAI (map B4) 18-20 Charoen Krung 38, Bangrak | 02-630-9918-9 | BTS Saphan Taksin | daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10:30pm | $ Ignore the goofy name, and wind your way through the r iver side streets near the Oriental to this char ming t wo -f loor shophouse, well-decorated with rustic, old-Siam objets d’ar t. In a neighbor hood dominated by nosebleed-priced hotel dining, Tongue Thai offers a welcome alternative – affordable farang-sized portions of zesty Thai food, without the farang-ized taste. Take your time to page through the

food & drinks

huge menu, and you’ll fi nd culinary representatives from all the major regions of Thailand – try the Isaan appetizer combination, with its tangy sausage and chili-spiked green papaya salad. Also recommended: the huge helping of soft-shell crab stir-fried with curry powder, which replaces the graininess of many restaurants’ versions with an addictive savoury smoothness. Tongue Thai is proud of its unapologetic approach to Thai spicing, so make sure to inform the staff of any chili susceptibilities from the very beginning.

ทังกไทย เจริญกรุง ซ.38

Food&Drinks

RoSABIEnG (map D3) 3 Sukhumvit Soi 11| BTS Nana | 02-253-5868 | daily 11am-11pm | $ The shorts-clad tourists sitting in cheapish chairs might make you look for another restaurant. Ignore that first impression, however, and you’ll be rewarded with some of the best Thai food around Nana. A Bangkok classic, the simple converted house and its large patio is home to expat and Thai diners in search for straightforward, outstanding local cuisine and a jovial atmosphere. Even the poppy live band playing nightly surprises with their quality. It’ll take some time to browse the humongous menu which seems to list every Thai dish ever invented. Luckily, the choice – and the pace at which the dishes arrive at your table – doesn’t affect the quality. Even Thai food critics tuck into the low-cost classics steeped in authenticity on days off. Kids will love the koi pond and the ubiquitous train toys, while total Thai food beginners shouldn’t be ashamed to request the picture menu and learn two words: “mai phet!” (not spicy).

รถเสบียง สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

Rosabieng

Blue Elephant

BLUE ELEPHAnT (map B4) 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | BTS Surasak | www.blueelephant.com | daily 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | $$ Ever since the Blue Elephant Group opened its restaurant here, Thai food connoisseurs have been filling this styling place up night after night. Been to other Blue Elephants before? Here the setting alone – a striking centuryold mansion – sets this branch apart. A few steps from the Surasak BTS station, the classy interior combines colonial decor, wicker chairs and tones of fresh flowers into an ideal spot for romantic tête-à-têtes. Their just revamped menu is faultless, and so is the service. While popular with tourists, the number of satisfied Thai customers who dine here can only be a good sign. Many dishes have been globalised, Western ingredients transforming them into something extraordinary. Foie gras with tamarind sauce, scallops mangosteen salad and the massaman lamb are must-tries. Likewise more traditional dishes, many of which – like the tom jew (beef in herbal soup) for instance – use recipes and ingredients from the Royal Palace. Pair them with the hefty Thai wines. Aspiring chefs should consider their on-site cooking school.

บลูอีเลเฟน ถ.สาธรใต food & drinks

KInnAREE GoURMET THAI (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 8 | BTS Nana | 02-2560328 | www.kinnareegourmet.com | daily 11:30am – 3pm & 6pm – midnight | $$ ‘You don’t need to budget to enjoy fantastic food,’ as the gastronomic cliché goes. This is especially true of Thai and, more to the point, the lovingly prepared cuisine at Kinnaree. Set back in a cosy converted house, expect delectable modern twists on classic staples. The young banana flower salad with shredded chicken, shrimp and chilli paste is an intricate edible marvel; the lightly grilled duck’s breast in tamarind sauce is succulently pink and tender. Named after the mythological hybrid said to symbolise feminine grace, this endearingly musty restaurant makes for an intimate evening out – right down to the ridiculously long cocktail straws.

กินรี กูลเมไทย สุขุมวิท ซอย 8

Kinnaree

bangkok 101

iNTERNATiONAl BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 | Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www. barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am | $$ Here’s an audacious dining concept: a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a two Michelin star chef (Belgian Yves Mattagne). In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice. The indulgent seared duck liver on tuna maki, for instance, comes accompanied by a syringe for a direct soy sauce injection - although not before you’ve attached a bloblet of apple jelly to the end of the plastic needle. And so it goes. The imaginative presentation throughout echoes the innovation of the dishes. Another fun touch sees the skewered satays served marinating in their respective sauces in shot glasses framed by a test tube rack. New taste sensations include an outstanding watermelon, basil and feta salad recently created for BarSu by celebrated New York chef Patricia yeo. And, believe it or not, the prices for all this culinary wonderment are really quite reasonable. Extra points, too, for displaying net prices on the menu so no surprises when the bill arrives.

บารสุ รร. เชอราตัน แกรนด ถ.สุขมุ วิท

WooDSToCK BAR & GRILL (map E4) 44 Thong Lo Soi 13 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715 0202 | www.woodstockbkk.com | daily 11 am-1 am | $$ Woodstock Bar & Grill was, until their recent relocation, the only non-girlie bar in Nana Plaza. Known for their rock and roll tunes - hence the name - and various styles of hamburgers, the new Woodstock is housed in a brand-new, glistening, three-floor loft on Thong Lo where the atmosphere is, more than anything, exceedingly comfortable. The first floor (on which, notably, smoking isn’t allowed before 10 p.m.) is designed to be dining-oriented, while the second and third floors are 100% U.S. sports bar; multiple TVs and an excellent sound system make Woodstock an excellent venue for viewing big international sporting events. Patrons are invited to pick their own tunes from a voluminous, free jukebox; in addition, WiFi is available gratis. The fare includes not just their signature burgers, but also a wide variety of sandwiches as well as solid Mexican, Thai, and vegetarian food.

วูดสตอค บารแอนดกริลล ซ.ทองหลอ 13

Barsu

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

chic bangkok Cheryl Tseng

Best for Modern French venue Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Méridien Hotel, 61 Wireless Rd, 02-650-8800, www.lemeridien. com/bangkokplazathenee BTS Ploen Chit Open Mon-Sat 6pm11pm Price $$$

REFLEXIonS

The Reflexions is an informal spot with a gleaming interior and an open kitchen serving sublime modern French cuisine. The modern ambiance is relaxed and draws regular followers with live music and occasional wine tasting treats. Chef Thibault Chiumenti’s dishes are exquisite and created with visual impact.Think smoked ocean trout with roasted yellow bell pepper, oyster and caviar; grilled Andaman tiger prawn, Sardinian couscous, fava beans and lobster sauce. A delectable tomato carpaccio with seared diver scallops, basil pesto and balsamic reduction will leave you lost for words, so will the light cépe mushrooms velouté with roasted rock lobster.The roasted pigeon breast and leg in duck liver pastilla, black truffle, Brussels sprouts and glazed baby carrots is meticulously prepared and fresh. A signature poultry dish is the whole oven roasted squab with creamed artichokes, braised fennel and natural jus. The chef ’s talent extends beyond mains to desserts; try the frozen cocktail citrus cup with absolute mandarin granite, segments of citrus fruits and orange grapefruit sorbet or the heavenly chocolate fondant. Chic Restaurants & Bars Bangkok is a compact food and style lover’s bible showcasing Bangkok’s most fabulous venues for dining and drinking. Global gourmand Cheryl Tseng leads you to the capital’s finest food, and its most striking décor. Each month we take a sneak peek inside, and share a taste here. A definite must-have for travelling foodies, get yourself a copy of the new 3rd edition at local book shops, or visit www.chicasia.com.

food & drinks

bangkok 101

UnIQUELy TASTy: Where Food meets Form

Grill (21/100 South Sathorn Road, 02-679-1200), alfresco rooftop restaurant at The Banyan Tree hotel. This sophisticated eatery, set in one of the most architecturally stunning buildings in Bangkok, specialises in top barbecued seafood. After dinner, sup a cocktail in The Moon Bar, the highest alfresco bar in the Asia Pacific. Or make like King Kong and scale the State Tower skyscraper in search of Sirocco (1055 Silom Road, 02-6249555), where sweeping city panoramas extend from atop the second tallest building in Bangkok. Expect quality live jazz, lots of pretty people, and an oyster bar within the prominent golden dome where you can also indulge in Iranian caviar and fine Cuban cigars. Heading back down-toSirocco earth now, aim for the cutesy It’s Happened to be a Closet (32 Khao San Road, 02-629-5271; or Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4696). An odd but successful fusion of closet-sized boho boutique with continental restaurant and bakery, shoppers at its two branches chow at a few dinky tables while surrounded by uber-cool trinkets, accessories and hawk-eyed fashionistas.

UIBJ!XJUI!B!UXJTU Authentic Thai flavours with an Aussie twist.

RESTAURANT

BAR

WYNDHAM THAI

If you appreciate good food and masticating in memorable surroundings, here are our top tips for unforgettable dining experiences around town. A perennial favourite with style magazines, Bed Supperclub (26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3537) offers dining in the kind of surreal space-age pod George Jetson would approve of. Order artful 3 course meals from Sun-Thurs off a limited menu for B1,450++; and on Fri or Bed Supperclub Sat enjoy a mystery 4 course meal for B,1850++. Then recline like a galactic emperor on divan fittings while sexy staff in tight spacesuits and angel wings serve you. Brought to you by the same trailblazing team is ultra-stylish Long Table (Column Building, Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-302-2557), the city’s most recent addition to the city’s designer dining stakes (they also do a pretty mean steak). As its name suggests, there’s a lengthy central bench, where you can rub up to models, celebrities and assorted other local A-listers, vertigo Grill if you get a kick out of that sort of thing. Relish eating while high? Prepared to spend a tidy sum doing so? Then you’re right for vertigo

long Table

G/Fl., Somerset Lake Point, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, Bangkok Tel: 02-258-1783 Fax: 02-258-1784 www.wyndhamthai.com Open 7 days a week Lunch - 11am to 2.30pm Dinner - 6pm to 10.30pm For Taxi: โซเมอรเซท เลคพอยท สุขุมวิท ซ.16 bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

FRENCH LE BoUCHon (map C4) 37/17 Patpong Soi 2, Surawong Rd BTS Saladeang, MRT Silom | 02-234-9109 | Mon-Sat noon-midnight, Sun 7pmmidnight | $$ Hurry past Patpong Road’s Hermès fakes and touts advertising ping pong shows and step into this memorable miniature France, reminicent of a resto on a tiny Lyonnais side street. It’s a lowceilinged, narrow, dark place packing in only nine tables and a wide bar, at which the owner seems to sit night after night. Euro expat regulars sit next to undercover Thai politicos, munching on fantastic home-style cooking. The food is all about quality and taste, and is selected from a regular and a weekly-updated menu written on a blackboard. It’s somewhat Southeastern (think meats in sauces) but really is just plain authentic French, without the typical French price tag. Most popular are Lobster Bisque, Foie Gras Ravioli, Frog Legs, Pot au Feu, Duck à l’Orange and tantalising desserts. Reserve a table, if you don’t want to wait at the bar.

เลอ บูชอง พัฒนพงษ ซ. 3

iTAliAN BELLA nAPoLI (map D4) 3/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-0405 | daily 6pm11:30pm | $ Forget about flair for a sec. Think of that perfect Naples-style pizza and its crispy thin crust. Now grab a cab or hoof it just a few minutes walk from BTS Phrom Phong to Bella Napoli.This quaint and casual. long standing eatery is packed out nightly with a fun crowd, but ask a local foodie and he’ll point out the Italian five-star chefs working in Bangkok – and they’re all devouring those pizzas. If you haven’t made reservations you might be forced to wait outside, but it’s well worth it for the pizzas! Try anything you feel like; from the simple, spicy Pizza Diavolo to the Penna Lungha with its Parma ham tree, these are – for most Bangkokians, anyway – among the best pies in town. The meaty mains, 70

food & drinks

isao

pastas and the imaginative antipasti buffet are worth a try, but we come here for one thing only.

เบลลา นาโพลี ถ.สุขุมวิท 31

JAPANESE ISAo (map D3) 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31 BTS Asok MRT Sukhumvit | 02-258-0645-6 | daily MonFri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm, SatSun 11am-11pm | $$ Although a bit tucked away, ISAO should become one of those wordof-mouth favourites where staff from nearby offices flock for hefty takeout orders. ISAO is based on a popular nofrills lunchtime eatery in Chicago; and it was named after the Japanese chef who makes his maki there. The restaurant provides an innovative twist on the city’s glut of Thai-styled and oh-sotraditional sushi bars. The chic modern décor has a cosy diner-style setup, with bench seating, bamboo slats adorning the walls, an open kitchen, a welcoming atmosphere, and a genuine rarity: a female sushi chef. From the newfangled stuff, try the Volcano – a scallop baked in its shell with a spectacularly hued spicy mayonnaise sauce, washed down with an oyster shooter perhaps. Set dishes offer a good way for groups to share and sample various pickings.

อิซาโอะ สุขุมวิท31

bangkok 101

Restaurant

Bar & Terrace

Open Lunch And Dinner

Situated in a beautiful private house in Sala Daeng, Soi 1/1, (5 minutes walk from the BTS station, Sala Daeng and the MRT station, Silom). Parking available. A friendly, romantic restaurant serving traditional and modern french food,prepared by our French chef.Great value wine list.Perfect venue for special occasions,parties.V.I.P dining facilities.

Open daily Lunch

Dinner

mon-fri sat-sun

18.00-22.30 (last orders) 18.00-22.30 (last orders)

11.30 - 14.30 12.00 - 15.00

Set lunch monday-sunday 2 courses 450++, 3 courses 490++ Express lunch menu All starters@190++ & pastas@250++ Degustation set dinner 7 courses 1490++ Set dinner menu 8 courses 1999++ 71/1 Sala Daeng Road Soi 1/1, Silom Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 For more information please call: 02-234-2226 email: aubergine_j@hotmail.com

www.aubergine.in.th

Indian live performance every dinner except Monday.

Food&Drinks Kongju

mAlAYSiAN KoPITIAM (map E4) 117/C Panjit Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 55 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-381-5881 | daily 10am-10pm | $ Although Malaysia is located virtually next door to Thailand, Malaysian food is almost impossible to find in Bangkok. Fortunately, thanks to one enterprising Malaysian, the flavours of our southern neighbor finally have a place in the Big Mango. Kopitiam, possibly Bangkok’s only Malaysian eatery, literally means coffee shop, but you’ll find much more than hot drinks. Start with nasi lemak, a Malaysian breakfast staple of rice cooked in coconut cream and served with a variety of sides. Kopitiam’s take on the dish is coupled with beef rendang, a dry curry braised for several hours until just falling apart. Follow this with rojak, the Malaysian equivalent of som tam, a dish sporting crunchy cucumber, pineapple and a sweet/ savoury prawn paste-based sauce. So good you’ll soon be wondering just where Malaysia has been all your life. โกปเตียม ปานจิตทาวเวอร ซ.ทองหลอ

eatery shot up the popularity charts. Like all other things Korean in Bangkok, Kongju has its own pack of overexcited fans these days. Start with geo jeol pan, a Korean hors d’oeuvre, where nine different fillings are rolled in a thin pancake. Unlike other outlets, lazy diners can have these pre-rolled by the restaurant. But with the sizzling grill front and centre on your table, it’s almost impossible to remain handsoff when it comes to the barbecue. Communal, Do-It-Yourself cooking is very popular in Thailand - this being a perfect example – and almost every kind of meat is available for your choosing, from prime ribeye steaks via spare ribs to seafood accompanied by one of the tastiest dipping sauces around. Knock that all down with a stiff shot of soju, a vodka-like Korean rice wine, and for dessert go for an icy cinnamon punch, for a cool, refreshing finish.

รร. ปทุมวันปริ๊นเซส ติดกับมาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร

viETNAmESE SAIGon RIMSAI (map E4) 108/4, Sukhumvit Soi 65 | 02-7142207 | www.saigonrimsai.com | 11am10pm | $ Saigon Rimsai must be doing something right – it’s packed with Thais. Part of the appeal is the space – warmly lit, with a view over

CHiNESE vEGETARiAN FESTivAl

the tranquil garden-seating area, it makes everything pretty. The fresh food is served up in generous and photogenic portions – fried spring rolls are crisp and succulent, ricepaper wrappers are supple rather than sticky, vegetables have satisfying snap. Rimsai initially lulls with its lovely décor and quality ingredients, but diners may find themselves snoozing at the table – service is sweet but slow, and where’s the kick from the dipping sauces and spicing? Great Vietnamese cooking balances freshness and funk, delicacy and full-bodied flavor. Rimsai only delivers half of the equation – well-done though that half may be. The many Thai ladies dining here don’t seem to mind, but we can’t help but think that with dining potential like this, it’s a pity to be just pretty.

ไซงอน ริมไทร สุขุมวิท ซ.65

Noble House

Veg-heads rejoice! Because the ancient Chinese Vegetarian Festival falls in early October, many Bangkokers are currently abstaining from meat. And street vendors, festooning their carts with yellow jay (vegetarian) flags and offering soya bean alternatives, aren’t the only ones following suit. Many hotels have dreamt up imaginative veg-only menus – and, in most cases, are making a tantalising month of it. The Nai Lert Park Bangkok’s noble House, for example, is celebrating the festival in traditional spirit. Think dishes like steamed lettuce rolls with seaweed; wok-fried water chestnuts, ginkgo nuts and mushrooms in crisp basket; and wok-fried lotus root with tofu and vegetables. Meanwhile, the Rembrandt Hotel’s Red Pepper Thai restaurant (02-261-7100) is pushing “healthy green food with superb herbal ingredients”, among them a thick veggie curry stuffed in a crispy roti. Had your fill of typical Chinese veggie dishes? Hit the Pathumwan Princess’s Kongju Korean restaurant (daily 11:30am.2:30 pm, dinner 5:30 -10:30 pm | 02-216-3700), who are serving up a slew of tasty and healthy Korean alternatives. 72

food & drinks

bangkok 101

gju

RIVER DINING CRUISES A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental).Whether you are manohra looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last 2-3 hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. ■ APSARA 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com ■ CHAO PHRAYA CRUiSE 02-541-5599 | www.chaophrayacruise.com ■ GRAND PEARl CRUiSE 02-861-0255 | www.grandpearlcruise.com ■ HORiZON CRUiSE The Shangri-La | 02-266-8165-6 | www.shangri-la.com ■ lOY NAvA 02-437-4932 | www.loynava.com ■ mAEYANANG The oriental Hotel | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com ■ mANOHRA CRUiSES 02-477-0770 | www.manohracruises.com ■ WAN FAH 02-222-8679 | www.wanfah.com ■ YOK YOR 02-863-0565 | www.yokyor.co.th

Flow

Grand Pearl

DiNNER SHOWS

Why not kill two birds with one stone and stuff yourself with culture as well as food, by taking in a culturepromoting dinner show at one of these featured restaurants? Some Thai dancing is very slow, elaborate and mesmerising, while the more folksy stuff offers livelier rhythms. Alongside a good range of Thai dishes,The oriental’s popular Sala Rim Nam (02-437-2918), on the river, offers a daily classical dance show performed by Bangkok’s Department of Fine Arts at 8.30pm (you can take the dedicated shuttle service from the Saphan Thaksin pier furthest to the left-hand side). other, similarly beguiling affairs are also staged at The Chao Phraya Cultural Centre (02-258-5403) on the riverside close to Sathorn Bridge, and The Piman Theatre (02-258-7861) on Sukhumvit. Innovative performing arts company, The Patravadi Theatre (02-442-2020), offers classical and contemporary dinner shows fusions, also beside the river. Locales include: its own Studio 9 (02-4127287) at 7.30pm on Fridays and Saturdays; the Supatra River House (02-411-0305) next door at 8.30pm on Saturdays; and the Millennium Hilton’s Flow (02-4422000), an exclusive weekly show at 8.30pm on Thursdays that’s creatively choreographed to match each course. Sala Rim Nam

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks Bei Otto

iNDiAN SRI GAnESHA (map D4) 392/23 Soi Sukhumvit 20/1, btw Soi 18&20 BTS Asok or Phrom Phong, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-258-1425 | daily 10am-10pm | $ Although he was enchanted by the culinary magic dished out at home, Senthil Kumar had to learn how to cook on the sly. Growing up in a traditional South Indian family, he wasn’t supposed to lift a finger, much less a pot, in the kitchen. A stealthy kid-chef until he moved out for a job, Kumar has, not surprisingly, imbued Sri Ganesha with the quality of a warm, homey secret. This hidden-away storefront serves up delicious vegetarian cuisine to South Indians, expats, and a growing number of Thais. Appetizers like samosas and plump dumplings in lentil sambar are greaselessly fried but fat with flavor, giant dosas come out tangy-crisp. Stand-alone veggie curries can be potato-pasty or a bit pallid, but on the whole Sri Ganesh hits the high mark – unpretentious, lovingly slowcooked food. This secret’s well worth passing on.

สีกาเนช สุขุมวิท 20/1

GERmAN BEI oTTo (map D4) Sukumvit Soi 20 | BTS Asok | MRT Sukumvit | 02-260089 | www.beiotto. com | 11am-midnight | $$ Proprietor and German governmentcertified master chef Otto Duffner inaugurated his eponymous Bangkok restaurant/bakery back in 1984. Over the years he’s seen competitors come and go, leaving Bei Otto as the only worthwhile dedicated German restaurant in town. Meanwhile his original Schwarzwaldstube has added a butchery and superb deli, and a slightly more formal European restaurant to its stout menu. It’s cosily attired, with a forest of mock wooden panelling, slatted dividers and log-beamed ceilings. The menu’s stocked with hearty Bavarian fare, and Otto’s in-house specialties – his assorted baked goods, imported meats and German wheat beer 74

on tap – set him apart. The mixed platters, each offering various cuts, sausage selections and side dishes, make waistline-expanding good value for groups.

บาย อ็อตโต สุขุมวิท ซ. 20

miDDlE EASTERN BEIRUT (map C3) B1, Ploenchit Centre, Sukhumvit Soi 2 BTS Phloen Chit or Nana | 02-656-7377 | daily 10am-10pm | $ Located near the enclave of tasty Middle Eastern restaurants on Sukhumvit 3/1, Beirut provides a bit more comfort, quiet, and care in the kitchen than its tasty but shishasmoky brethren do. The mall atmosphere is not much to look at, but you’ll be too busy scarfing down lemon-fresh salads, creamy hummus and beautifully marinated chicken kebabs to even glance around. Beirut does excellent set menus of its small plates – come with a gang of friends and fight over every forkful. Fried eggplant is simple and fantastic, served up without a trace of oil and bitterness, and Beirut’s cauliflower got us –

confirmed haters of that pasty-white vegetable – to chase every last morsel. Pita is not up to this standard, but serviceable – more room in your stomach for the good stuff. Finish up with strong mint tea, perfume-y sweet custards and rice puddings. Friendly, unpretentious and perfect for that falafel fix.

เบรุท สุขมุ วิท ซอย 2

dim-sum featured

SUMMER PALACE

WHERE InterContinental Bangkok 973 Phloenchit Rd. (map D3) BTS Chit Lom, 02-656-0360 WHEN daily lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, dinner 6:30pm-10:30pm All you can eat dim sum Mon– Sat 11:30am-2:30pm (not served on Sun and public holidays) PRiCE B498

In the InterContinental Bangkok’s ornate yet inviting Summer Palace, accomplished Cantonese executive chef Cheung Chin Choi’s sharply deﬁned dim sum menu is offered up a la carte. But why faff around with small fry when, for a mere B498, you can go for all-you-can-eat excess? The emphasis of his authentic, 30-plus selections – dumplings, wantons, pastries, buns and so forth, all made with ingredients from the mainland – is on quality as much as quantity. And for no extra wedge you can wash down your mouthfuls with superior infusions like chrysanthemum, oolong and green teas. Set in an elegant dining room of Chinese ceramics and traditional paintings, this is a bona ﬁde gustatory treasure – unlimited dim-sum for a very modest sum.

รร.อินเตอรคอนติเนนตัล ถ.เพลินจิต

food & drinks

bangkok 101

runching is big in Bangkok. All five-star hotels and respectable cafés do them. Some are kidfriendly, others are strictly adult.you can get tipsy at some, while others focus on music. Curing a hangover? need to eat al fresco? We offer you a sampling of Bangkok’s best.

brunching

Stand Alone Brunch Venues

Lavish Hotel Brunch Buffets

featured

COLONNADE

brunch

In the languid splendour of one of Bangkok’s ritziest five-stars, a Sunday ritual plays out… A cheery chef prepares fresh carbonara for a rumbling belly (mine), while groups of raffish hi-sos enjoy the melodious vyings of a piano, oboe and clarinet. Kids in their Sunday best tuck into dessert plates as tall as molehills, while a Thai pop star with frizzy hair ambles around the antipasti. This is brunch Sukothai-style. Aside from striking exactly the right air of day-of-rest decorum, the food is, simply put, fantastic. Rock up at 11:30am for first dibs on a perky spread spanning everything from steaming dim sum to lobster, sashimi, hunks of roast lamb and fresh Fine de Claire oysters. There’s a hot kitchen serving casserole-dished delights like coq au vin, a salad bar, Peking duck – food enough for a squad of ravenous wrestlers, and WHERE The Sukhothai then some. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd (map Wash down your repast with a C4) BTS Sala Daeng mRT bottle from the Sunday wine list (not Lumphini, 02-344-8888, included), and close with an assault on www.sukhothaihotel.com one of Bangkok’s best selections of soft, OPEN Mon-Fri noon-3pm hard, veiny and downright stinky cheeses. PRiCE B1,950++ Or join the kids running amok in the adjoining Zuk Bar: every horizontal surface herein bears something richly sweet, from rustic apricot tarts to sublime chocolate truffles. Yes, it’s pricey, but then the only thing you leave wanting after this burly brunch is an armchair to snooze it off in.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea

DIVANA HOME CUISINE

tea

featured

What do wellness spas know about high tea? Quite a lot it seems. Banish all preconceptions of cloying concoctions, floaty atmospherics and anaemic scones because Divana’s is a treat in every respect. Set in a genteel, all-white teahouse that overlooks a shady secret garden, their tea-sets work a wonderfully jaunty, 1930s-in-the-tropics vibe. Ensconced in elegant rattan chairs, the urban drone that is Sukhumvit Soi 35 is drowned out by lilting jazz and birds twittering in tall trees beyond. The spread, although WHERE Divana nurture 8 light, is surprisingly toothsome to boot. Sukhumvit 35 (map D4) BTS Tea-lovers can “uhm” and “arr” over a Phrom Phong, 02-261-4818~9, slew of traditional, Indian, herbal and www.divana-dvn.com OPEN Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat-Sun fruit infusions – all served loose-leaf in exotic white tea-pots. And despite 10am-11pm PRiCE $ being almost comically bite-sized, the homemade nibbles are just as luscious. There are delicate shrimp tarts and finger sandwiches, dainty Italian tiramisus and berry scones… all flagrantly flavoursome. So flagrantly flavoursome, in fact, that the overtly peckish could easily find themselves embroiled in a minor tea-party scuffle. Or just order another. And at a paltry B220, “Why the devil not?”, as the English say.

ดิวานา เนอเชอร สุขุมวิท ซ.35

food & drinks

High Teas

■ Sukhumvit Gazebo Sukhumvit Soi 1 | 02-655-2475-6 | BTS Phloen Chit Global tapas until the wee hours.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either. Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you. Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-3919634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02-238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half Restaurant Half Art Gallery with Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

bangkok 101

Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya. Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine ■ Khao San Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare. ■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you’re around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

late-night dining

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.96) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.64). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Sunrise Tacos

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier. Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Thai and International Food food & drinks

Bug and Bee

Food&Drinks

sweet treats

ookies, cakes, pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

BUTLER’S

This swanky new café in the shiny Gaysorn shopping mall offers, alongside light modern Western dishes, a three-course dessert menu. And gimmicky it isn’t. Pastry chef Tim Butler’s innovative desserts created a stir during his tenures at some of New York’s finest kitchens (one even tagged ‘Dessert of the Year’ by New York magazine). Now, having upped sticks and gone independent, he’s using this high-faluting spot to finesse his passion: visually and orally lovely desserts for the fine-dining crowd. Take a table alongside some Fendi-clad hi-sos or short-break Singaporeans, tuck in a starched napkin and get ready for a bevy of slight yet sophisticated sweets. One highlight of the evolving menu (Tim creates new concoctions constantly and uses seasonal WHERE L/F, Gaysorn 999 produce wherever possible) is Thai tea, a Ploenchit Rd BTS Chit Lom, triumphant take on the slightly cloying Thai 02-656-1107-8 (map C3) OPEN classic that layers orangey tea granite, diced daily 10am-8pm PRiCE B95-210 sweet mango and a condensed-milk mousse. Another is the grown-up flavour of the alcohol-infused pineapple Carpaccio, with its ball of pandanus crème, sake granite and solitary sprig of mint. Chocolate lovers with an arty eye won’t have any gripes either – dishes like chocolate ganache pair calligraphy-like brush strokes of chocolate sauce with wickedly rich textures… Judging by the panache of these puddings, New York’s loss is to be Bangkok’s (weight) gain.

เกสรพลาซา แยกราชประสงค ถ.เพลินจิต

food & drinks

bangkok 101

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of five-star hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets. featured

all you can eat

OISHI GRAND BUFFET

buffet

Shopping hot-spot Siam Square has snack-stops aplenty. But what if you don’t fancy jostling, uni-canteen atmospherics and those polite rumblings emanating from your malnourished belly are actually more like agitated growls? One possible solution is Oishi Grand, where a very reasonable B550 (or B660 at dinner time) buys you a culinary carte blanche – complete freedom to assault its Japanese buffet – and a very chic setting to enjoy it in. “Irrashaimase” (welcome) chirp the young waitstaff in trim black uniforms as you’re ferried into an upscale-Zen mix of sleek black marble, parquet ﬂooring and chic dining tables. After that you’re pretty much on your own – no bad thing. The spread spans Japanese sushi, salads, tempura, a pasta bar, dim sum and a hundred and one WHERE Siam things besides. Equipped with elegantly glazed plates, Discovery Center 2 Fl. and trays on which you can arrange several, this is the (mapC3) BTS Siam, place to assemble that sashimi platter you’ve long dreamt 0-2658-0222-3 OPEN of; or see how many akagai (Japanese blood cockles) you daily 11am-3pm, 4pmcan stomach. 10pm PRiCE lunch Not all the food is excellent however. While the 647nett, dinner 765 nett nigiri and maki sushi consistently hit the spot, our takoyaki (octopus balls) were dry, without the squishy succulence we expected. Juices are also a tad oversweet. However, average is not an adjective to be bandied about near the teppanyaki bar. Here you pile your plate up with, say, some New Zealand mussels, a mound of shiitake mushrooms, pop a numbered plastic pellet into a hole on the side of the plate and hand it over. A few minutes later there it is, sizzled to garlicky perfection, on your table. Yum.

สยามดิสคัฟเวอรรี่เซ็นเตอร ถ.พระราม1

BUFFET VENUES

■ THE MED The Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | daily 6am-11pm | Breakfast Buffet: 6:00am-10:30am B650++, Lunch Buffet: noon-2:30pm B750++, Dinner Buffet: 6:00pm-10:30 B1,050++ ■ DInInG RooM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | MonSat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ CoLonnADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02344-8888 | Mon-Fri noon-3pm | B980++ bangkok 101

■ ESPRESSo InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ HEIGHTS CAFÉ Pan Paciﬁc Bangkok | 02-632-9000 ext. 4343 | Mon-Sat 6am-10:30pm, Sun 11:30am-3pm | Breakfast B590++, Lunch B610++, Dinner B690++ ■ no.43 BISTRo Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-658-7444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ LoRD JIM’S BUFFET Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun food & drinks

11:30am-3pm | B1,295 nett (Mon-Sat) B1,648 nett (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-2384300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 nett, dinner B824nett, Friday Seafood Night B941nett ■ oRCHID CAFÉ Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm-10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++

Food&Drinks

featured

wine

wıne bar

Bangkok’s original multi-tasking venue is still going strong, thanks to its breathtaking city views, hefty signature cocktails and faultless French food. But perhaps most of all, loyal customers flock back here for V9’s astounding selection of ever-drinkable, reasonably-priced wines. Lining the narrow corridor leading into this sleek, 29th floor bar/restaurant is one of the city’s best selections of new and old world wines. Bottles are handsomely displayed in wooden crates, cellarstyle; and best of all, you pay supermarket prices for the vino, and won’t be charged corkage. Chef Dominique is justifiably known for his fab “Tasting Trees” and impressive selection of fine cheeses from his native France and beyond – all of which goes rather well with those long wine-drinking sessions. V9’s trained sommelier, Rahman Bousnina, is on-hand to make recommendations to suit your taste and budget. Besides food WHERE 37th Fl Sofitel Silom188 Silom Rd BTS and wine, V9 Chong nonsi, 02-238-1991 has earned itself a name for artOPEN daily 6pm-2am exhibitions, live music, DJs and lively events. Where better to spend a rainy night?

วีนาย รร.โซฟเทล สีลม ถ.สีลม

food & drinks

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex ﬂavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle ﬂavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

941 Sukhumvit Rd. Between Sukhumvit 51-53 Mon - Sat 5.30 PM - 1 AM

Live Band Tue - Sat 8 PM - Midnight For Reservation Tel: 02-662-7605

A taste of New Orleans...

Bourbon St. Restaurant & Oyster Bar

Serving up Asia’s ﬁnest Cajun and Creole cuisine since 1986.

Intimate. Stylish. Affable. Original. Innovative, modern sushi. Friendly, informal service. Chic ambience.

“A must when you visit Thailand.” Newsweek Fixin’ breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7am-1am crawﬁsh ■ US & Local Steaks gumbo ■ Mexican buffet every Tuesday ■ jambalaya ■ Fine cognac and cigars ■ blackened redﬁsh ■ Wireless Internet ■ oyster bar (raw, char-broiled, bienville & more...) ■ ■

Boutique apartments available daily or monthly 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (behind Mambo Theatre, Washington Square) Tel: 02-259-0328/9 Fax: 02-259-4318 www.bourbonstbkk.com

MON-FRI: 11:00am-2:30pm / 5:30pm-10:00pm SAT-SUN: 11:00am-10:00pm 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee) Tel: 02-258-0645~6 www.isaotaste.com

nightlife

one night in bangkok DJ Cavo

Silom area

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest amount of options – so much more than just the (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. supperclub (p.82) lead the way in international-style A night out here can easily have you flitting between nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes – usually in a matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque Soi Cowboy (btw sois 21 & 23). And It’s little wonder that Bangkok pulls in so many revellers from across the “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major voguish but affordable hotspots thoroughfare and its myriad (all tall tables, live hip-hop and city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges adjoining sois, hosts many of whisky-sippin’ urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot sois of attract the well-heeled and fabulous the city’s best nightspots.” thong Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave- & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit area, Royal City Avenue scene/hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies – or RCa (p.93) – features a mall-strip of megaclubs and the homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as where hordes of young, flirty Thais congregate, especially welcoming and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to on weekends. Other notable hot spots include Bang party till sunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping Lamphu (p,88), the hedonistic backpacker hub that is official closing hours (most venues must shut between legendary Khao san Road, and the bohemian café/bar 1-2am), and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche scene on Phra athit Road. The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its back-street style, you can. The lively silom/sathorn commercial district is a true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fiveDJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.90), there’s something for all. star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.90. On flying proudest around silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – surawong Road. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its to help you achieve that perfect night out.

nightlife

bangkok 101

nightlife

Bed Supperclub Image by Marcus Gortz

nightclubs

Bed Supperclub

BED sUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past five year s, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over top-class world talent (including some very eclectic ar t) for special events. Tuesday’s Hip Hop party packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with tribal house music. Sunday is ‘Think Pink’ and features a colourful Burlesque show.

เบด ซัปเปอรคลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

Q BaR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com nightly 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka on offer!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife eight 84

Clubbing in Bangkok? stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; ofﬁcially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. the legal drinking age is 20. all patrons must carry proof. no iD, no entry. no joke. and as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no. years ago and is still going strong, with a crowd every night and many bigname guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Beat Therapy hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Liquid Thursday’s Funky House. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the newly renovated bar/ lounge. Some relative solitude can be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather and people watching.

คิว บาร ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

thE CLUB (map a2-3) 123 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-1010 | www.theclubkhaosan. com | free The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers will be amazed to find they’ve entered a castle on Khao San Road. The spiral staircase to the central DJ platform and sky-high windows give a fairy-tale vibe that would make Rapunzel want to let her hair down and hang loose. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house with a B300-500 entry fee for special events from psy-trance to breakbeat to global DJs. Ladies’ night on Thursdays treats the crowd to live percussion, while a saxophonist jazzes it up on Fridays.The drink prices are kind to your wallet and dancers entertain on Friday and Saturday nights. The Club aims to raise the stakes on the Khao San strip with plans for an outdoor monitor that will stream live action from the naughty goings-on inside.

Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-or-miss, but weekends are always packed and hopping.

ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4

thE tUnnEL (map C3) Lang Suan Soi 5 | nightly 10pm-till late Bangkok’s late-night venues equal adventure and The Tunnel, growing by word-of-mouth, screamed from clubber to clubber, is no exception. Flash your ID at the harmless hulks on the door to enter a crypt-style hangout that’s filled with a veritable who’s who of the vampire social scene. There’s ample dancing space and a DJ pod in the middle of the dance ﬂoor. A sweet sound system and switchedon DJs blasting progressive house and electro ensure club-goers won’t be disappointed. It’s house music all the way but the tune selection is a cut above the usual stuff that passes for dance music in other venues. Expect guest appearances from classy, European DJs. The entry fee includes one or two drinks. Choose from beers, whiskey, cocktails and more. Turn up around midnight and you’ll usually get to dance until the wee hours.

เดอะ ทันนัล หลังสวน ซ. 5

twisted Republic

เดอะ คลับ ถ. ขาวสาร

taPas (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | nightly 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For 14 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live percussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a dark, nightlife

bangkok 101

tWistED REPUBLiC (map D3) 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-6510800 | Mon-Sun 9pm-3am | www. twistedrepublic.com Twisted Republic is the newest addition to the Sukhumvit Soi 11club scene. Clearly a club opened for clubbers by clubbers, it features a one-of-a-kind, touch-sensitive “interactive” projection bar. The gleaming glass pillars stand tall against an artificial waterfall and the interior statement says something between chic jazz lounge and cosmopolitan boutique residence. The music is well complemented by the euphoric décor, with electronica, break beat, hip hop and progressive house sets blasting out amongst a litter of lasers. The best local and international DJs can be found gracing the decks of the city’s newest clubbing utopia. Entrance is B500 with two free drinks included.

ทวิสท รีพับลิค สุขุมวิท ซ.11

park Bridge

CLUB CULtURE (map C3) Sri Ayutthaya Rd (opp. Siam City Hotel) | BTS Phaya Thai | 08-9497-8422 | www.club-culture-bkk.com | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am | B400 (incl. 2 drinks) Club Culture comes from the owners of the online clubbers’ guide, Buzzin’ Mag and Café Democ. Climb carpeted steps, pass through a curtained stairwell and you’ll enter a space where chandeliers and Thai wood carvings hang from the ceiling. Strategically placed structures, great for resting an elbow or a drink, dot the open-plan dance ﬂoor, surrounded by plush sofas and stools. It’s a beautiful building but the toilets lack a little finesse. This modish, 1,000-capacity club attracts a cross-cultural mix of trendy Thais and expats and the diversity is mirrored in the music policy. They aim to promote new talent, while still bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of break beat, electronica, trance, indie rock, drum ‘n’ bass and house music of all genres.

คลับ คัลเจอร ถ. ศรีอยุธยา

bangkok 101

PaRKBRiDGE (mapC4) 5 Patpong Soi 2, 3rd Fl., (entrance opposite Foodland) | BTS Sala Daeng | www.theparkbridge.com | 6pm-5am “Upstairs in Patpong” used to be code for spectacularly sordid girly shows. No longer. Climb the stairs lined with urban graffiti murals and silver antlers, slink past the red velvet curtain and you’re in a dark, slick, intimate boite de nuit occupying a bridge between two car parks (thus “Parkbridge”). Glam Victorian furnishings add sparkle to a rectangle, steel warehouse-like space with a luminous bar in the centre; and the only sleaze in sight is out the windows lining either side, on the street below. Shimmy to Gallic DJ’s playing loungey deep house and euphoric electro, plus the odd spinning of drum & bass, indie or hiphop. Entrance is free, happy hours from 6-9pm nightly, and a one-off membership fee gets you discount tipples and access to a spangly mezzanine. Check out their website and click the Facebook link for info on their evolving weekly line-up.

ปารคบริดจ พัฒนพงษ ซ. 2 nightlife

Cabarets mamBO (map D4) Washington Square, Sukhumvit Rd near Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-2595128 | daily 8:30pm & 10pm | B800 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ วอชิงตันสแควร ถ. สุขุมวิท

CaLyPsO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,000 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

nightlife

hotel nightclubs BaRsU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. As gimmicks go, this one surely takes the cake (or, rather, the featherlight crème brûlée). In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it.While you’re still getting your head round one sly culinary twist (warm tom yum kung jelly, anyone?) you’re hit with yet another gastronomic slight of hand. The imaginative presentation throughout echoes the innovation of the dishes, and won’t murder your wallet. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

บารสุ รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท

87+

87+ (map C3) Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.87bangkok.com | daily 9pm2am The Conrad’s 87+ caters well to its upscale hotel guests. It features a pumping band doing the latest covers, and DJs playing a mixture of quality house music and commercial hip hop and R&B. Look out for the irregularly run Bhangra Nights with steamy Indian beats. Attached to 87+ is italianate, a very good Italian restaurant with interesting décor. Start off the night listening to a set of worldclass live jazz in the Diplomat Bar, and afterwards stroll across the lobby to 87+ to take advantage of one of Bangkok’s great late happy hours, nightly from 8pm to 10pm.

87 พลัส รร. คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

nightlife

syn BaR (map C3) Lobby Level, Nai Lert Park Swissotel 2 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02253-0123 | daily 6pm-2am This swanky hotel hangout does raise some bars, especially when it comes to style.You’ll spend half an hour taking it all in – the suspended, translucent bubble chairs, the amorphous couches, the ornate lighting. The completely glass-encased bar screams retro-future. Think 1960s ovalism, 1970s ﬂuidity.The vast drinks menu lists a lot of signature cocktails, though the Asian-inspired martinis and spicy creations (like the Wasabi Mary, one of our personal faves) are way better than the Seven Deadly Syns. Syn Bar is considerably less crowded than other hotel nightclubs, which is not necessarily something bad.

ซิน บาร รร. ปารคนายเลิศ ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

Latin Rhythms

Bangkok’s riding high on the Latin wave. People crowd salsa and tango dance classes and shake it at steaming parties. Inexpensive La Rueda is a small, salsa-only venue with lots of atmosphere, especially on Thursday, Señor Pico Friday and Saturday nights, when you can salsa with DJ Jorge from Mexico from 10pm to 1am. Dance lessons take place every Tuesday (pulsating zouk from 8-10pm) and Thursday to Saturday nights (sexy salsa from 7:30-10pm). The salsa social has taken off at several venues around town as a relaxed way to learn the moves and meet other salsa enthusiasts. RumPUREE World Dance Studio offers a New York Salsa Social every first and third Saturday of the month (6-9pm); Salsa Hacha Fusion Café and Dance Studio holds theirs on Wednesdays and Sundays (7-11pm); Tapas Bar on Tuesdays (7-10pm) and Señor Pico on Wednesdays night. If you’ve already got skills (or just enough margaritas) under your belt and you’re ready to hit the clubs, Noriega’s, a small, unpretentious straight venue in a mostly gay soi, is teeming with a hot, fun, adult crowd on Sunday and Wednesday nights when the DJ pumps out Latin tunes. Barsu, at the Grand Sheraton, has DJ Greco from Cuba spinning out salsa, samba and African rhythms from 10pm-1am on Thursdays. DJ Greco also takes it to posh Bed Supperclub on Wednesdays, where he hosts his Salsa Revolucion. If tango is what you’re after, hightail it over to Mediterraneo for their Milonga (tango dance party) nights on Monday (classes welcome beginners from 7:308:30pm), HOPS on Fridays from 6-8:30pm, Flava at Dream Hotel from 7:3011pm on Sundays or Siam@Siam Hotel on Thursdays. The Summer Mansion also hosts a Tango Practica every Thursday as well as a Milonga night every fourth Saturday of the month. For more details, check out www.salsabangkok.com and www. tangobangkok.com. n La Rueda Sukhumvit Soi 18 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-9669 n Rumpuree World Dance Studio Amarin Plaza, 5th Fl

bangkok 101

nightlife

“HALLOWEEN” Latino Grooves

Friday 31 October Bring your family and friends to

“Señor Pico” Mexican Bar & Restaurant

for another haunting Halloween night with ghoulish delights and mischievous fun. Devour zombie food and special cocktails while spooky live music from our Latino band electrifies your spine!

Sukhumvit Soi 18 Bangkok Reservations: Tel 02 261 7100 or www.rembrandtbkk.com 87

nightlife

bars CaFÉ tRiO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-252-6572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place.The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnameseinspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (on an irregular schedule, often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues.The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟทริโอ ซ. หลังสวน

ChEaP ChaRLiE’s (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is little more than a wooden shack with a couple of barstools surrounding it, a makeshift kiosk really. Every night, an eclectic mix of tourists and foreign residents populates the stools – be prepared to stand. The prices are unbelievably low – you can get a G&T for B60, while beer sells for B50. No girlie bar, the unique place is heavily stuffed with oddities collected over the 20 years this Bangkok institution’s been in operation. Buffalo skulls, beehives, tribal masks and sex toys hang down from rafters, while the bar is stocked with an impressive range of alcohol. Beware to ‘only piss in toilets’, as one sign warns you. Ask the patrons about the bar’s countless myths. Go down Soi 11 and take the first left. The perfect place to while away some boozy hours amidst experienced barﬂies.

ชีพ ชารลยี  ถ. สุขมุ วิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

WOnG’s PLaCE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02-286-1558 | MRT Lumphini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late Quentin Tarantino would love this quirky late-night watering hole. On the block for 20 years and a must for music geeks, there’s not a working girl in sight, not even a waitress.Two fridges stocked with cheap drinks invite a self-service and pay-as-you-go honour system. Wong’s Place is known to Bangkok old-timers and it’s not uncommon to find guests revisiting the bar for the first time in years with travel stories to tell and looking for their photo on the wall. Owner Sam Wong inherited and extended his brother’s love for music videos, everything from 1950s jazz through punk to MTV-inﬂuenced babel. Wong’s houses the largest known collection in Asia, if not globally.Take his opening hours with a grain of salt:Wong opens when the mood fits.

วองส เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

OnE niGht in BangLampHu (map a2) the streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of city execs, thai students and travellers. a neat Khao san cocktail joint is hidden in a small side street and clad in eclecticism and cool kitsch. Sunset Street is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Cooler clubs include stylishly furnished Lava, a popular basement joint playing speedy house and hip hop. café democ, a faux-Euro club turning out electronic music, attracts a hip but unpretentious older clique. For a laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby riverside along phra athit Road, lined with little bars,trendy cafés and hole-in-the-wall restaurants.Often compared with nyC’s GreenwichVillage and London’s high street Kensington, it’s a favorite for youngthais going “beat” and the odd expat. stop for a cheap caffeine intake at coffee & more in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclecticthai food at rock-bottom prices. minimalist but friendly Bar Bali and tiny Joy Luck club deserve a mention. For outstanding seafood and absolutely no flair, check out thon po. Directly on the riverside, this breezy place offers fantastic views and delicious ﬁsh and crustaceans from an expansive menu. Call ahead to reserve a riverfront spot. coFFee & moRe 102/1 Phra athit Rd, sun-thur 10am-10pm, Fri & sat-midnight HemLocK 56 Phra athit Rd, 02-282-7507, mon-Fri 4pm-midnight, sat 5pm-midnight BaR BaLi 58 Phra athit Rd, 02-629-0418, daily 5pm-11.30pm JoY LucK cLuB 8 Phra sumen Rd, 02-280-3307, daily 11am-1am tHon po 43 Phra athit Rd, 02-280-0452, daily 11am-10pm Hippie de BaR 46 Khao san Rd, daily 10am-1am Lava 249 Khao san Road, 02-281-6565, daily 8pm-1am caFé democ Ratchadamnoen Rd at Democracy monument,02-622 -2571,tue-sun 4pm-1am

nightlife

bangkok 101

the glaz Bar

thE GLaZ BaR (map C3) Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Méridien Hotel Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02650-8800, ext. 4324 | www.lemeridien. com/bangkok | daily 11am-2am This stylish multi-functional conglomerate of lounge/bar/restaurant is a neat place along embassy row to down a few fab cocktails. In cosily dim tones, the bar is complemented on one side by a massive all-glass wall (you see where they got the name from).The Glaz Bar is a great spot to sample innovative thai tapas, all the better paired with wines from their solid list of old world, new world and a respectable selection of Thailand’s own “new latitude” wines. Their monthly “After Work Cocktails and Cones” event (B550/pp nett) draws a chic crowd of social high ﬂiers who come for clever canapés and creative top-shelf cocktails. Next chance is October 30th, 6:30pm-8:30pm

รร. พลาซา แอทธินี ถ.วิทยุ

Rain DOGs (map C4) 16 Soi Phraya Phiren, Rama 4 Rd | 081-720-6989 (Jum), 087-055-9407 (Cartoon) | 9pm till late Though rain dogs are poor mutts who lose the scent of home in the rain, it’s the humans who forget where home is after frequenting this bar, where half the pleasure is in finding the bar in the first place. A human-sized birdcage, pond and collage-like décor add to Rain Dogs’ character, while windows and patio doors blur the line between indoor and outdoor space. Though DJs and salsa nights are featured on occasion, the music policy is mainly DIY: bring your iPod to plug in and play, request what you want to hear or start your own jam session on the drums.The vibe swings pleasantly between rowdy and chilled and the Thai indie kid/artsy expat clientele can choose from an array of inexpensive beers and spirits.

GaZEBO (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 1 | BTS Phloenchit | 02-655-2475~6 | 7pm till late This airy rooftop bar’s remarkable Moroccan-style makeover has made it a popular alternative in the Sukhumvit area nightlife scene. Past the street front tuxedoed bouncers you go, along a lengthy, dim-lit corridor. A quick elevator boost to the fourth floor later, and Gazebo unfurls its multifarious charms. Turn right for the outdoor lounge: a melange of low tables, silky cushions, ornate flickering Egyptian lamps, and billowing drapes. Kick back with a dark grape-flavoured sheesha, choose from a range of innovative, multi-cultural tapas and check out the eclectic mix of live music. Heading left, slick nightclub The Harem offers a more upbeat, DJ-fuelled groove – although the seating sanctuary just begs you to cosy up among the plush cushions for an intimate heart-to-heart.

กาเซโบ สุขุมวิท ซ.1

Saras in Rd.

เรนดอกส ซ. พระยาพิเรนทร ถ.พระราม 4

SaRaSin Road (map c3)

It sure is fun to hang in Bangkok’s hopping hoods, but sometimes the throngs around RCA, Khao San and Silom Soi 4 get too much. The hippest youngsters (and the ones looking young) congregate on a short strip just north of Lumphini Park, a stone’s throw away from Silom. Trendy Singaporeans have discovered the western end of Sarasin Road as a playground, but only a few Caucasians venture here. The educated, fun-seeking masses of all sexual orientations are nice enough to strike up a conversation with, the music is fun, prices are low – it’s the perfect place for a relaxed night out. Even Monday nights see these small bars well-peopled; they’re heaving on weekends. Start your night out early at The Room. Two-ﬂoored and airy, with funky décor and richly colored walls, it sports the strip’s best food – fun fusion dishes for okay prices. Later, it ﬁlls up with glam guys and house beats. 70s Bar is quite homo-friendly, and celebrates 70s and 80s tunes plus Euro Pop. Eclectic seating is worth a look inside. Zarazine does cheesy live music while 2nd Round and Bard are heavily hetero and focus on hip hop. Upstairs I-Chub is the place for clubby boys and their fans to do some karaoke. Brown Sugar, one of Bangkok’s top live jazz venues, is the most mature of the bunch. Each bar puts out tables on the pavement, creating an almost European feel beneath the trees and offering perfect people-watching, especially at 1am when the lights go on and everybody streams out on the street. bangkok 101

nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-ﬁlled streets? Fancy a breather? take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below. Pretty darn low says the sensepiquing success of Nest, an open-air hangout on the ninth ﬂoor of the ultra-sleek Le Fenix Hotel. Despite a lack of loftiness – skyscrapers sprawl around you, not below you – the views are intoxicating. And then there’s the management’s lust for all things loungy. Fan-enhanced breezes and smooth Balearic sounds waft across a lush, barely-lit Zen garden spotted with pathways, palms and intimate seating areas. Snuggle with your lovebird on the Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs; or bring your glampacker pals for some pre-club Manuka Mules and Tapas-y snacks, before you swoop down to nearby Bed Supperclub or Q Bar.

รร.เลอฟนิกซ สุขุมวิท ซ.11

distil

thREEsiXty (map B4) 32nd Fl Millennium Hilton |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | daily 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be part of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd ﬂoor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and 90

smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

ทรีซิกตี้ รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

nEst (map D3) Le Fenix 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-305-4000, www. lefenix-sukhumvit.com | nightly 5pm-2am How low can the rooftop bar go? nightlife

sKy BaR / DistiL (map B3/4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02-6249555 | www.thedomebkk.com -| daily 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seafood eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 sports yet another stunning view from the 51st-52nd floors.These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart-casual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร ถ. สีลม

bangkok 101

moon Bar

V9 (map C4) 37th Fl Soﬁtel Silom | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | daily 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee. The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe. The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights. The music is good, and the view through the ﬂoorto-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is hear t-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

วีนาย รร. โซฟเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

mOOn BaR (map C4) 61st Fl Banyan Tree Bangkok | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | daily 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

มูนบาร รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

bangkok 101

thE ROOF tOP (map C3) 83rd Fl Baiyoke Sky Hotel | 222 Rajaprarop Rd | 02-656-3000 | www.baiyokehotel.com Perched above it all, the view is the best and seemingly only draw at this aging and very campy sky-high watering hole. Step off the elevator and it’s like you’ve been transported to outer space. That is if outer space had tuttifrutti coloured walls. Passable cocktails and the loungy live cover band won’t distract you from what really makes this place really wor th visiting: the sprawling metropolis below. For fullscreen Bangkok, take the stairs, pass the kitschy solar system murals and extra-terrestrials (yes, seriously) up to the 84th ﬂoor and let the wind hit you in the face on the open-air revolving deck and try to spot the now ant-sized malls you were in earlier.

เดอะรูฟทอป รร.ใบหยกสกาย ถ. ราชปรารถ

amOROsa (map a3) Arun Residence 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Rd., 02-221-9158, www. arunresidence.com | daily 6pm-1am Amore ﬂows freely at this Moroccantinged hotel bar, a 4th-ﬂoor rooftop decked out with candles, glass-round tables and tall chairs. A bartender shakes over-sweet cocktails to an accompaniment of suitably soft music and warm breezes, and if it weren’t for the views you could be on the French Riviera. But views – postcard-perfect, indubitably Thai – there are… on the far banks of the city’s Chao Phraya River the seminal Wat Arun temple glints golden and majestic, while the dark waters beneath perform an endless shimmer. Order a signature Arun Sunset or Met Amorosa cocktail, or a bottle from their extensive wine-list (think Australian, Chilean or Italian, prices from B950-4,100). Then pinch yourself. One of Bangkok’s most beguilingly lovey-dovey spots – especially at sundown.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

nightlife

amorosa

LOnG taBLE (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-302-2557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | daily 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 ﬂoors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of highﬂying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

เดอะลองเทเบิ้ล สุขุมวิท 16 (สามมิตร)

nightlife

hotel jazz clubs thE LiVinG ROOm (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com | daily 10am12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s still a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained.Worldclass talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Until Sep 14, The Living Room plays host to Clare Foster performs with the Jeremy monteiro international trio from september 30th – October 19th . performing every Tuesday through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am.You can also catch this spectacular act during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch each week.

ลิฟวิ่งรูม รร. เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท

Bamboo Bar

BamBOO BaR (map B4) The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights this month catch the sultry sounds of San Francisco’s Denise thimef. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon. A definite big Bangkok must.

แบมบูบาร รร.โอเรียลเต็ล ถ. โอเรียลเต็ล

nightlife

DiPLOmat BaR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buy-one-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. Monday through Saturday nights, catch Filipinos versatile jazz diva Kate Pen. ดิพโพลแมทบาร รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

or a night of clubbing, Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say ‘RCA’ to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and wellcoiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling mega-clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for the indecisive club-goer. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunt a different genre of music.

RCA

SLim Daily 7pm-2am | 02-203-0377~8 Superclub Slim’s full-on hip-hop zone is never short on chic crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie. The other room offers live Thai music in a more sane social setting.

Route 66 Daily 7pm-2am | Free Entry | 02203-0936 | www.route66club.com Seething with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, superclub ‘Route’ boasts an all-white American retro feel and ﬂashes of gothic glam. Go ‘North’ for house beats, ‘West’ for hip-hop R&B, ‘East’ for live-music and out front for a cool alfresco zone with low cushion seating and synchronized music videos.

nightlife

oLd Leng Free Entry | 02-203-0972 A rickety wooden bar with vintage Chinese adverts covering the distressed walls and a decent band banging out Thai hits in a corner. Don’t come to party. Come to chow down and sink a few, before you go party. Zeta Free Entry (women only) | 02-2030994 | www.zetabangkok.com Girls only at this trendy lesbian bar with live music. No men, gay men, drag queens or peeping Toms allowed. neW KiSS on tHe BoX A raw box of a bar with an industrial, exposedbrick look and intimate danceﬂoor. Occasionally hosts one-off events.

PEtChaBURi ROaD

LOCaL ROaD

Rama9 ROaD

a c

FLiX Daily 7pm-2am | Free Entry | 02-203-0377~8 Enjoy base thumping electro house at this alter-ego to the adjoining ‘Slim’. The décor is as ﬂash as the clubbers: soaring ceilings, colossal chandeliers, posh furnishings.

bangkok 101

HoBB (house of Bangkok Bar) Daily 7pm-2am | Free Entry | 02-641-5959 A chic, chandeliered two-storey bar with plenty of seating nooks and windows looking out onto the strip. Expect DJs, live music, and occasional appearances by Thai bands like Bodyslam.

808 Tues-Sun, 9pm-2pm | Entry Fee | www.808bangkok.com Sick of radio rap? Not interested in ﬂirting with waif-like bachelor’s students? For edgier beats and scruffier Thai-farang crowds, hit this slick industrial warehouse with the best soundsystem in town and sets by global DJ gods.

nightlife

Saxophone Bar

live music tOKyO JOE’s (map D4) 25/9 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | (opposite Tara Hotel) | 02-259-6268 | www.tokyojoesbkk.com | daily 6pm1am Nobody knows quite where blues aficionados went before this place opened, but they’ve found a home here. After a brief hiatus, Tokyo Joe’s is back in a new location where two cool guys put all their efforts into this live blues mecca, and it shows. The stage sets fire nightly from 9:30pm with talented, mostly-local musicians performing blues, interspersed with jazz, soul and R&B. Unique for Bangkok are the ﬂamenco nights on Mondays; Sunday’s jam sessions are well-liked. A mixed, but mostly Western crowd is always impressed by the schedule (check the website for details) and the unassuming, tasty Asian-American pub favourites.This place is for serious blues lovers.

โตเกียวโจส สุขุมวิท 26

BROWn sUGaR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this longstanding, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yester year with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band star ts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน ชูการ ถ. สารสิน

saXOPhOnE BaR (map C2) 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 02 246-5472 www.saxophonepub.com | daily 6pm-2am This unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. Just a stone’s throw away from a BTS station, it’s nevertheless not a tourist hangout. Filled with masses of fun-filled, youngish Thais and the odd foreigner thrown in, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its low-ceilinged, wooden floors. Nightly, talented Thai bands belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk and R&B while the crowd feasts on hearty Thai and Western fare.

churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do the Thai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

แซกโซโฟน บาร ถ. พญาไท

aD hERE thE 13th (map a2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | daily 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band nightlife

Brown Sugar

bangkok 101

Brick Bar

BRiCK BaR (map a2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) As the name suggests, this bar’s built solely from red brick. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, it’s a dark and airy vault, with benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in.A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with fresh-faced 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. The excellent T-Bone, a charismatic Thai outfit who ﬂit from reggae to rocksteady and even samba, has been known to turn up. Good Thai food is available from the sister hotel, though you may struggle to find dancing space, let alone a pew. Beers start from B60, cocktails from B150 and even the obligatory whisky is given a slinky twist, with table service from tiny but hardy waitress “pretties”. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร ถ. ขาวสาร

bangkok 101

RaintREE PUB (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd. | BTS Victory Monument | 02-2457230, 081-926-1604 www. raintreepub.com | daily 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age time-capsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a band at around 11pm adds bongos, mandolin and accordion. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 18 years ago and, it seems, has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, soul-stirring. There are too many insipid, cover-spouting live music bars in Bangkok – and too few like this one.

เรนทรีผับ ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย nightlife

titaniUm iCE BaR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 | www.titanium-club. com | daily 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly. Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 90-some varieties to choose from. An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม ไอซบาร สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

Raintree

nightlife

pub crawling Nick Measures

here are many ways of quenching a thirst, but surely the most enjoyable has to be sipping a pint of real beer in a proper public house. With an unexpectedly wide choice of British and Irish bars offering a taste of pub life, Bangkok won’t let you down on this front. Bangkok 101 dragged our very own pub-crawler par-excellence Nick Measures out of the boozer to get the low-down on the top taverns around town.

featured

thE PiCKLED LiVER

pub

In a city of hidden gems this pub is definitely a rough diamond. Situated on a dead-end soi past the famous Cheap Charlie’s it isn’t one for passing trade. But, it’s definitely worth hunting out because it’s a classic football boozer. A shrine to the beautiful game, or soccer, as some philistines know it, the sign outside features legendary player George Best and the walls and ceilings are covered with football memorabilia. The décor is simple and unfussy with a large bar running down one side, a high central table and red velvet seats ﬂanking the other venue soi 11, wood panelled wall. The low ceilings and small windows sukhumvit Rd, 02-254lend the place a cosy, perpetual twilight air, making it an 3484 open daily 2pmideal escape from the bustle of Bangkok. 2am BtS nana Not surprisingly, it’s the range of live sports available on the big screen TV that attracts an unpretentious crowd of fans who have made it their home. But with friendly staff, a pool table in a rear alcove, daily happy hour from 2-7pm, draught Guinness and Kilkenny and an extensive food menu, including award winning curries from the Rang Mahal restaurant, it’s not just the sport that make this place unique.

เดอะพิคเคิล ลิเวอร สุขุมวิท ซ.11

What’s on Tap?

DiD

yOU The reputation of Thai brew is mixed to say the least, and decent choices are limited, but beer KnOW? remains a popular beverage among locals. Don’t be fooled by menus referring to Heineken and Asahi as “locals” - those are brewed here under local licence.The actual Thai heavyweights are singha Due to the oven-like temperatures red Beer (pronounced “Sing”) and Chang Beer. Chang is the Thai word for elephant, and after a few cans wine is quite often of this you may feel like you’ve been trampled by one when you wake up. Not considered a classy served chilled. it’s brew by any means, it has been triumphant due to its lower price and higher alcohol percentage and also been known for beers to be glugged guaranteed intoxication. It’s much harder to find in classier bars compared to singha Beer, which is with ice. the more high-brow choice. Chang’s reception is a bit spotty as some are quite fond of it while others liken it to urine. Forget the cans and stick to draught for a better bet. Micro-brewed Phuket Beer is harder to track down but many swear by it as a superior local choice. Many breweries have suds aimed at lower markets - the most notable being Singha’s underling, Leo Beer. Of course you get what you pay for with these. Also, independent breweries can be found, like at the Londoner Brew Pub or Tawandaeng Beer Garden 96

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

SiLom aRea puBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is the Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. With Kilkenny and Guinness on tap, molly malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands the Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer including John Smith’s, Beer Lao and Guinness, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

Bts surasak sathORn ROaD

thaniya

PatPOnG

COnVEnt ROaD

sURasaK ROaD

siLOm ROaD

2 1 Bts sala Daeng

Silom area

SuKHumvit aRea puBS

bangkok 101

sOi 39

sUKhUmVit ROaD

Bts asoke

sOi 22

sOi 12

Bts nana

sOi 6

sOi 4

sUKhUmVit ROaD

sOi 35

sOi 11

sOi 13

sOi 33

sOi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, the Robin hood [12] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, including draught Kilkenny and Guinness, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is the Bull’s head [11], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the ﬂip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. the Londoner [10] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [9], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is the Black swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is the Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

Bts Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

stuff

s clichés go, “Shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s literally something for everyone in this town (however peculiar your peccadilloes may be). For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering city-sized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map - and prepare for sheer retail overload. Duty Free Why pay taxes? Anytime you can save money, take advantage! Airport shopping in a bling new complex, open for less than a year, allows travellers to peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. They don’t have the most up-to-date products from the big names, but good choices abound nonetheless. This is the place for cosmetics or perfumes. Save up to 20% on department store prices. Get this shopping out of the way first, so you can focus on the other shopping that

Silom Village

needs to be done before departure. King Power’s inner-city location is on Soi Rangnam, (Victory Monument BTS station, with a free shuttle from Century Plaza). Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Be sure to have your air ticket and passport. This is much more civilised than running through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi. Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. When it comes to blissful pampering, the Thais have got their down-time services down pat. The following slick product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. ■ Panpuri: Asian-inspired sensory purification. Pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. www. panpuri.com Paragon 1st Fl, King Power Duty Free, Central Chidlom 4th Fl, and Gaysorn, 7th Fl ■ Thann: Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and

Bargaining This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it down the street, and if they want to sell it, they better come off the price a little. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head. 98

shopping

relaxing. The new Mediterranean Blend is gorgeous. www.thann.info Central Chidlom 4th Fl, Central Chidlom 4th Fl., Central Ladprao 5th Fl., Isetan Plaza (Central World) 5th Fl., Siam Discovery Center 5th Fl. and Emporium 4th Fl. ■ Karmakamet: Long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. www.karmakamet.co.th Central World 2nd floor; Chatuchak Market, section 2, Soi 3 Home furnishings Modern Thai décor often blends Western minimalism with exotic “Oriental” flourishes to produce striking creations that are fast gaining international repute. So why not take some of the local style savvy back home with you? Silk: Thai silk reaped overseas recognition only quite recently – but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. ■ Jim Thompson: This legendary American silk revivalist pioneered the modern Thai silk industry. Paragon 1st fl., King Power Duty Free; and Jim Thompson House Museum, Soi Kasemsan (across from MBK) and Surawong Rd. Antiques: Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. bangkok 101

Counterfeit Stoners

Thai Silk

■ River City Complex: This sprawling mother-of-all-antique-dealers hosts auctions on the first Saturday of each month (with viewings the preceding week). 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung 30 Arts & Crafts: Beyond the triangular pillow and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of authentic textiles up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down. ■ OTOP: One Tambon One Product is a laudable government directive that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). ■ Narayanaphand: An enormous bazaar offering ceramics, handstitched fabrics and artisan goods. 127 Ratchadamri Rd, Pathumwan ■ ThaiCraft Fair: Everything from coconut-shell salad bowls to bulrush baskets at this monthly, OTOP-approved crafts-flogging session on the third floor of the Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing. Check www.thaicraft.org for dates. Tower Wing, The Ambassador Hotel, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11. JEWELRY & GEMS Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionally-mined precious stones. The local jeweller’s can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. ■ Lambert Industries: This friendly and reliable service has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. 807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg, 4th Fl, Soi 17, Silom Rd, 02-236-4343 ■ Rasi Sayem: This producer applies age-old methods to innovative, newfangled creations. 32 Sukhumvit Soi 23 bangkok 101

Bounders running gem scams abound on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts. Sidewalks Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny t-shirts, small carved wooden products, paintings, and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the stuff on offer can be picked up in the malls and markets – but where’s the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain. Step up to: ■ Silom Road: This well-known party place has some great shopping right off Saladaeng BTS station. Both sides of the street offer day and nighttime shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am. Just about everything, especially souvenir t-shirts unavailable anywhere else. ■ Central World: Right in the centre of the city, off the Chit Lom BTS station, and walking distance from Gaysorn, and the ever-crowded Siam shopping district. Stalls offer some uniquely crafted Thai products like

Value added tax

Department stores offer VAT services that allow you a precious 7% VAT refund upon leaving the country. You have to spend at least B2,000 a day to get the discount, but major purchases can add up in those stores. Have your passport and tickets with you! Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products.

coke can tuk-tuks and coconut shell purses. ■ Pratunam: Well known for its bulk deals, the sidewalk offers sunglasses, and all things casual. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists lapping up bargains, find great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!). A ten-minute walk from Central World, it surrounds an intense indoor fashion market with everything available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item. ■ Sukhumvit:The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. Right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

Keep it real As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home, and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. Suan Lum Night Bazaar

shopping

Shopping

shopping tours

SIAM SQUARE

the corner and chathewi and head round Jump off the sky train at Rat gkok’s most Ban of now approaching one up Petchaburi Rd ; you’re known for is rict dist am laves. The Pratun jam-packed shopping enc for Pantip and d, foo et stre ounts, tasty bargain basement bulk disc ula cum tive buzz ctically levitates with the Plaza - an I.T. mall that pra s, races and gizmos of all shapes size of computers, gadgets and ” all over the vie mo xy insistently touting “se creeds – as well as pests y overload, sor sen the m fro recovered ground floor. Once you’ve n hio Mall nex t ically named Platinum Fas check out the oxymoron ere locals go for cheap door for a heads-up on wh ner of Phetchabutri cor fashion-wear. At the Pratunam market, an and Ratcharaprob Rd lies stalls overflowing with unmarked labyrinth of ies. Shoppers spurred those infamous pirate cop olesale prices should on by the prospect of wh e. The last stop is the spend time negotiating her Indra Regent hotel. shopping centre inside the neighbouring peers its This arcade is smaller than tailors plying their lity qua of – and, with a range d place to get suited wares under its roof, is a goo

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FINISH HERE

Indra Regent Hotel Pratunam Market

RATCHAPRAROP RD

SOI 2

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PHAYATHAI RD

FINISH HERE

SOI 3

SOI 4

BTS Siam

SOI 5

START HERE

RAMA 1

his buzzing locale may take its name from Thailand’s past, but its daily day-glow retail frenzy is a distinctly modern phenomenon. From premium brands to shoddy knockoffs; subtly modified student uniforms to show-stopping Cosplay-inspired gothic Lolitas, Siam Square is the Thai home of conspicuous consumption – a modern national pastime-cum-popular face-gaining strategy – and a prime spot for checking out Bangkok’s vibrant street fashions. Not only is the general vicinity a nominal open-air catwalk, but any Thai fashion label or trendy start-up worth its salt is represented here, hence the trend for youthful enterprises with quirky, anglicised names, like It’s Happened to be a Closet on soi 3, which stocks vintage girly fashions and also offers salon services and a menu of decent Italian cuisine. Gather yourself and dive headlong into a crowded cache of boutique-y market stalls - and prepare to bump elbows with young socialites and gangs of giggling students alike. The little alley tucked next door to the Lido cinema complex is as good an entry point as any. Those wishing to try shopping Thai-style, should shop at a leisurely pace, snacking every step of the way and taking regular breaks in the closest air con-chilled space – hopefully an I-Berry ice cream parlour. For some, the golden rule is: if you see something you like, buy it while you have the chance; Siam Square nurtures impulse buying. Resistance is a brave but naïve gesture, and ultimately futile.

PHETCHABURI RD

START HERE

BTS Ratchatewi

Panthip

Platinum Fashion Mall

bangkok 101

RD IT

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U N G

RATCHAWONG RD

CHAKKRAWAT RD

MRT Hua Lamphong

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BURAPA RD

Sampeng Market

START HERE

RAMA IV RD

YAOWARAT RD

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Thieves Market

Bangkok’s Chinatown (kn own locally as “Yaowarat”) presents urban pathfinde rs with a bewildering sensor y mish-mash of human traffic, precious metals , pungent aroma s, ma zy, back-alley marke ts and shop-houses stockp iling useless tat . Take the MRT subway to Hualump hong then cross the street The to Traimit Rd. Walking do Old wn takes you pas t the 13t Siam h centur y Wat Traimit, hos FINISH t to the world’s largest sol id HERE gold Buddha. Opposite the temple, the huge Od eon Gate beckons your pas sageway to Chinatow n. Make your way down Ch aroen Krung Rd then han g left at the intersection with Chakr awat Rd. Firs t up is the cocalled thieves market,, where, if your luck’s in, second-hand ant iques can be had at a steal. Next you ’ll come to Sampeng Lan e,, a nar row bur sting with cheap jew ellery, accessories, bags, fabrics and so jam packed with punter s it’s barely passable. Em erge, breathe, and cross Chakr awat ont o Pahurat for Bangkok’s nominal Lit tle India - and some excelle nt deals on fabric and clothing. Pass though the lane and tur n right at Burupa where you ’ll find The Old Siam, a ver y local fou r-s tor y market whose tra ditional Thai candies will leave a sweet aftertaste to your expedi tion.

MAHACHAI RD

CHINATOWN (YAO WAR AT)

SOI WANIT 1

Pahurat Market

THONG LO In recent years this long boulevard has emerged as a scene to see and be seen in; an upmarket playground for well-heeled, studiously cool zeitgeist followers; somewhere boasting conditions favourable to celebrities, models, media types and international school students, who linger there sipping endless moccachinnos, playing with their phones killing sweet time while secretly yearning to be talent-spotted. As befi ts such an eminent locale – if indeed Thong Lor is still riding fickle fashion’s unsteady slipstream as you read this – luxury condos, trendy nightspots, boutique lifestyle emporiums, and designer spas line the avenue. Hop off the BTS at Thong Lo station and on to a local red bus near the entrance to the soi, ride it until almost the end of the street then stroll back. Grab a restorative coffee at J-Avenue, on soi 15, hosts an Apple shop, trendy alfresco cafes and stylish Asian eateries, as well as boutiques flaunting sexy heels and handbags. And, incidentally, if there seems to be an unusual proliferation of blushing brides carousing about, it’s because Thong Lor’s posh wedding studios have formed a latter-day marital Mecca for Bangkok’s great and good. On the corner of soi 10, the Third Place, where at TrueLife@Thonglo you can sip smashing smoothies and use the Internet.

bangkok 101

START HERE

shopping

NEW PHETCHABURI RD

Third Place

SOI 20

SOI 10

FINISH HERE

SOI 18

J Avenue

SOI 55 (THONG LO)

SOI 6

SUKHUMVIT RD

BTS Thong Lo

SOI 15

SOI 13

SOI 53

101

Shopping

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 The Four Seasons 4 Grand Hyatt Erawan 5 Intercontinental 6 Holiday Inn 7 Conrad 8 Plaza Athenee 9 Royal Orchid Sheraton 10 The Oriental 11 The Peninsula 12 Shangri-La

1 PHAYA THAI RD

Elevated RAMA 1 RDWalkway

CENTRAL WORLD PLAZA BTS Siam All hail Bangkok’s largest shopping mall, uniquely served by an elevated walkway connecting Siam Skytrain station to its Chit Lom counterpart.

ZEN BTS Siam This pop art-styled, multilevel designer department store aims to attire Bangkok’s young-at-heart funsters in the latest international fashions. 3

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

4 5 6

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OEN K CHAR

To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

RIVE R

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its air y architecture . Look for TCDC , the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

PHYR A

CENTRAL CHIDLOM BTS Chid Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

C HAO

BTS Ploen Chit

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PHETBURI RD

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GAYSORN BTS Chid Lom All-white interior of glitzy, top-class brands – expect Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

CHIDLOM

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ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

RATCHADAMRI RD

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chid Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine. Think Burberry. BTS Chitlom

URI RD

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam

PHAYA THAI RD

PH E TB

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastro-gems and indie cinemas.

G WON SUR A

OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel. 12

S ILO

bangkok 101

Experience the World of Comfortable and Discover the Latest Wine Bar in Town Happy hours 4pm-8pm Buy one Get one free.

Draught beer, House wine by glass

October 08 Promotion Food & Beverage discount 15% Dinner Time: 6pm-midnight every day @M3 restaurant Tel: (662) 677-8484 or (662) 677-8400 Fax: (662) 677-8485 e-mail : fnb.fxasok@furama.com www.furama.com

LAMBERT… WHERE LUXURY AND VALUE MEET

Your reliable source for gems and jewelry. American owned and operated for 35 years. GEMSTONES, PEARLS, AND CUSTOM JEWELRY TO YOU AT WHOLESALE PRICES WORLDWIDE WHOLESALER, EXPERT GEM CUTTERS & EXPORTER OF FINE GEMS

Visit our showroom, sit with us, we’ll design and create the piece of your dreams, choose from thousands of stones, all shapes sizes and colors…or buy from our ready made boutique collection. Trust Lambert and color your world with Thailand’s most beautiful gemstones. LAMBERT INDUSTRIES LTD. 807-809 Silom Shanghai Building, 4th floor Soi 17, Silom Road, Bangkok 10500, Thailand Tel. 66 2-236-4343/49 Fax. 66 2-236-4810

www.lambertgems.com

Shopping

markets

Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-that-be auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s obsessive collection of modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนทบารซาร

Suan Lum Night Bazaar

CHATUCHAK (map D1) Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fi ttest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere – the rest can get lost – literally. Taking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which zillions descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Chatuchak quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs during ‘Nam; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has somehow evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for peddling endangered species). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order begins to crystallise from the chaos (Nancy Chandler’s famous 104

map also comes in invaluable). Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits - although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated fix.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: shopping

PATPONG Over the years, this notorious strip of sleazy go-go bars evolved into a bustling, tourist luring market that plies busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in hired flesh. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees young families on package tours rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. What’s funny is that the fleshpots have become almost secondary to the chain of stalls along Silom Road and the avenues of Patpong, starting at around 6pm every evening – but, rest assured, the seething, mercenary atmosphere remains fully primed to rip you off at the first opportunity. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills come in second to none here.

พัฒนพงศ

Chatuchak

bangkok 101

Wet mArketS Bangkok has a number of large ‘wet’ markets and hundreds of smaller ones catering to residential areas. The pavements of the city are jam-packed with food vendors all day long, selling fresh fruit and vegetables to the endless stream of passers-by. Thais love to snack and fruit ranks as the most popular bite in-between meals. KHLONG TOEI

คลองเตย

This large market offers the full spectrum of ingredients required for the intricacies of Thai cuisine. Fresh meat, fish, herbs and spices rub shoulders with towering piles of vegetables, fruit and rice. The vendors with live ornamental fish for sale, hanging on their walking sticks, will get a quizzical first-time take. Visit it in the very early morning as the market slows down after 10am. SAM YAN

สามยาน

On the outskirts of Chinatown, this wet market is smaller but offers much the same fresh produce as Khlong Toei, albeit with some more obvious Chinese influences. TALING CHAN

ตลิง่ ชัน

(see Floating Market p.38)

KHAO SAN ROAD This legendary budget traveller’s ghetto hosts an astounding variety of shops catering to the younger – or younger at heart – generation of visitors. Stallholders do an accordingly sterling trade in “novelty” t-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. Yes, if you must, you can still get clad in tie-die and fisherman’s pants, get your hair dreadlocked, and eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. But postmillennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. Nowadays, the first sighting is to have your senses assaulted by a front line of screaming neon, while international junk food chains jostle rudely for attention in the gallery and gaggles of preening students amble along what must be the smoothest paving in the kingdom (not saying much, admittedly). You can momentarily evoke the bygone era by wandering past the guesthouses, second-hand bookshops and stalls punting leftover backpacker detritus at the temple end of the road – although any brief illusion is shattered as soon as you happen upon the next, inevitable 7-Eleven. That said, KS offers unbeatable peoplewatching; makes for an excellent refuelling pit-stop from tours of the neighbouring royal district; and it offers a diverse menu of inexpensive, roundthe clock grazing.

ถนนขาวสาร

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

bangkok 101

shopping

Khlong Toei

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was hailed as “Venice of the East”.

เทเวศน

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the “thieves market”, this smallish street-side market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique, and a seemingly random assortment of household appliances. As its nickname would suggest, ample bargains await patient, eagle-eyed shoppers - though don’t expect a receipt, let alone a refund.

นครเกษม

PRATUNAM A popular trading centre, primarily for textiles, fabrics, as well as fancy dress (feather boa and Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?), and cheap novelty clobber of all kinds, ranging from random tat right up to factoryseconds. This lively market area spreads out from around the base of the looming Bai Yoke Sky Hotel (the highest restaurant in Southeast Asia), attracting a lively multinational mix of fast-talking traders, all on the make. It’s also home to the LED-accentuated charms of Pantip Plaza, a techno-mega-mall with an atmosphere that’s simply electric (see p.100 for a suggested tour of the locale).

ประตูน้ำ

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Accommodation

one room

In each new issue Bangkok 101 brings you the city’s very best overnight offerings by taking you inside its most extraordinary rooms in its most distinctive hotels, one room at a time.

ARUN SUITE, Arun Residence

Found at the river-abutting-end of an industrious Old City alley, Arun Residence is an intimate inn with one breathtaking difference: Everywhere you roam in this turn-of-the-century, Sino-Portuguese shophouse the silhouette of one of Bangkok’s most stupa-endous temples follows. Whether chowing down at the amour-inspiring restaurant, MSN-ing in the library, or pushing your face up against the window panes lining the staircases, Wat Arun is inescapable. Nowhere is this truer than in the Arun Suite, the most demanded of their six cosy, earth-toned rooms. Its private covered veranda, quaint white bathroom, romantically draped bedroom… wherever you are in this nostalgic hideaway Wat Arun is with WHERE 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok you. Should you ever tire of eyeballing Yoong, Maharat Rd. (map A3) , its enigmatic spires – at their best, 02-221-9158, www. arunresidence. incidentally, when shrouded in golden com PRICE 5,000 nett (Incl. light at night – then kick back in luxed2 breakfasts) (Period: October out boutique bliss (there’s a 2008) widescreen TV, DVD player, iPod dock, espresso machine and more); or totter down to nearby Wat Po or Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour flower market. However, nothing here beats the refined, wistful thrill that is lying back on your balcony daybed with your special someone, the din and breezes of this working river wafting over you. Bangkok 101 can think of no better place for the dewy-eyed marriage proposal (or lusty honeymoon retreat). A tip: If the Arun Suite is booked out – and it often is – opt for the almost as impressive Jasmine or Ratchapruek Suites.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

TEN FACE

BOUTIQUE BANGKOK

Design hotels in Bangkok tend to lean in one aesthetic direction or another. Either they’re traditional teak homes brimming with rustic, woodsy charm; or they’re odes to all things shiny and ultra modern. So imagine our glee when we bumbled into the style-melding confines of Ten Face, an urbane little sanctuary, tucked down a sub-soi off Wireless Road, that’s nailed both. Inspired by Tossakan, the 10-faced giant from the Thai literary epic the Ramakien, the local designers IAW (Interior Architecture Workshop) have pulled off a blinder. Slick, surrealistic décor – Ramakien-homaging murals, art pieces and other cool exotica – adorns all its swish spaces. There’s buzzing WHERE 81 Soi Ruamrudee restaurant Wanara, a sleek bar called Sita, a chic lap2, Wireless Rd., 02-695-4242, pool, and 79 one- or two-bedroom suites. Ranging www.tenfacebangkok.com from a generous 61 to a palatial 142 sqm, these come PRICE 3,700-8,700++(opening tricked out with LCD TVs and free Wi-fi Internet, rate until October 31) while the two-bedrooms feature kitchenettes and dishwashers. It’s the cool unforeseen perks that give this place the edge, however – where else do you receive a “Tosakan Heart Box” on arrival (a goody-bag containing a Skytrain pass, free SIM card, an iPod Nano for viewing insightful Bangkok podcasts, and more); and how many times have you met Pipek, an in-house entertainment guru/man-about-town whose job it is to open doors to all the cool parties, exhibitions and events? Exactly.

เทนเฟซ ซ.รวมฤดี2 ถ.เพลินจิต

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accommodation

bangkok 101

The Stylish

New Way to Sleep in Bangkok

seven design hotel 3/15 Sukhumvit 31 Bangkok 10110 t: +662.662.0951 f: +662.662.3344 e: info@sleepatseven.com www.sleepatseven.com

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.110 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

Thai-massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-ﬁtting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in ﬂexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

Urban Retreat Spa – 31/10 Sukhumvit Soi 35

/ BTS Phrom Phong / 02-204-2008-9 / www. SIGNATURE TREATMENT

urbanretreatspa.net <http://www.urbanretreatspa.net> / 10am-10pm / $ 30-minute Himalayan Crystal pink Salts with Yogurt and Honey Scrub + 60-minute MacDone up in clean, blond wood, with anadamia equallyOil sleek and welcoming Massage: 1200 bahtservice awayspa in awithout side street close to Phrom menu, Seven Eden is a rare one – aTucked full-service gratuitously Phong, Urban Retreat is precisely that – a exotic treatments or bewildering options. Treatments are solidly luxurious quiet spot close to the bustle of Sukhumvit without seeming padded with unnecessary extras. Even though theshopping spa is set mall. and the upscale Emporium This – new, small in an unlikely location – a condo complex the spa is spa is popular popular with Asian guests, who seem with particularly Thais fond and long-term foreign of the hot-stone massage. residents drawn The Seven Eden Signature rub-down is a real standby very good servout, a blend of Asian pressure-point and long ices Swedish that don’t

SEVEN EDEN

strokes, with a very good mix of weight and rhythm. Suffering from computer-kinked shoulders? Therapists will treat you to intense and very detailed work that extends from neck to mid-back, even taking care to release the lower edge of the shoulder blade, a crucial but oft-neglected spot. Need swooping moves to stretch out the long muscles of the legs? They’re happy to oblige. The therapists here are wonderfully cheerful and seem to genuinely enjoy their work, taking immediate note of your body’s kinks and quirks and packing in hours of relaxation into a 90-minute massage.The spa is whisper quiet, a respite from crammed Sathorn, and with its emphasis on treatments, and not trends, well worth seeking out.

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health & wellness

WHERE 27 Soi Sala Daeng Soi 1 | 02-266-2345 | www.sirisathorn. com/seveneden BTS Sala Daeng MRT Silom OPEN Daily 10am10pm PRICE B1,950

bangkok 101

LIFE CENTER Next to Lumphini underground station and opposite the Suan Lum Night Bazaar is a cylindrical building buzzing with, well, life! Being healthy has never been more easy or glamorous than here at Asia’s first ‘healthstyle’ mall. Under one roof are 40 lifestyle brands dedicated entirely to fitness, health, beauty, cosmetics, healthcare and wellness. The Life Center is divided into four zones, beginning with food, and beverage, (unfortunately commercialism had to spoil the healthy lifestyle concept and the pretzel bakery might challenge the weaker health fan on their way out).A big bonus is the free wireless internet on offer and stylish lounge-out public areas on the ground level. Venture up to the second zone,‘Beauty & Cosmetics,’ and you’re spoilt for choice between quality products and services from Leonard Drake, Skeyndor, Madame Heng Good Health, Ariya, Slim Up Center and a KiDO education center. Prepare to be amazed on the third zone, devoted to ‘Healthcare & Spa’ where a range of cutting-edge medical advancements are at work - from a Center for Assisted Reproduction & Embryology, a DBC Spine Clinic and Gym, Hearing Focus, the Netanart Clinic, and a Stardent Dental Clinic. Right at the top is the ‘Fitness Zone’ and home to Fitness First Plus, a fully-equipped fitness center. Also on offer is Bikram Yoga as well as ‘Kinesis’,Thailand’s only body-building exercise machine. It’s a boutique shopping mall with a difference, and the only shopping center in Asia where you can find an all-inclusive range of first-class health and beauty products and services. Specialised healthcare clinics, beauty centers, a fitness center, a spa, and various restaurants ensure you no longer have to shop till you drop!

LIFE CENTER No. 1 South Sathorn Rd, Tungmahamek, Sathorn, 02-677-7177, www.lifecenterthailand.com

Bangkok Snaps

Urban

MARK STANDEN

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109

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

spas

Nicolie

NICOLIE (map B4) 104/5 Sun Square, Silom Rd btw Soi 2123 | BTS Surasak | 02-233-6957 | www. nicolie-th.com | daily 10:30am -10pm | $$$ reservation recommended Gorgeous Southeast Asian antiques, a family atmosphere, and a back-to-themassage basics approach – Nicolie manages to combine seemingly contradictory elements into one sublime experience. More like an elegant museum than a massage centre, keeping your eyes open to soak up the rare antiques is a challenge, however, once you’re in the hands of Nicolie’s therapists. The focus is almost exclusively on massage – Thai, Shiatsu, Ayurvedic Abhayanga, a wonderful fusion. Rubdowns are slow, exquisitely attuned, and followed by tea and herbal cookies. Using a curtain to partition twobed rooms into separate section can lead to a certain lack of privacy at peak times. But in all, the expert massages and genuinely warm staff make this spa one of your new favourite.

นีโคลี สปา ซันสแควร ถ.สีลม ระหวาง ซ.21-23

110

PANARUN (map C3) 68/4 Ploenchit Rd, across from Soi Lang Suan 3 | 02-652-1200-1 | daily noon-10pm | $$ Set in Lang Suan townhouse, Panarun has a comfy feel, despite its posh locale. Spa services are similarly informal – towels maybe whisked away with little ceremony, but massages are satisfyingly brawny and skin treatments leave behind a smooth glow even if the scrubs are not especially thorough. With its more casual approach, Panarun is not the place for luxe and ladylike pampering. Perhaps, but packages are reasonably priced, making the space popular with nearby embassy workers and neighbourhood residents on the weekends. Spacious couple rooms pre-dominate, some have Japanese soaking tubs set just outside on the balconies. Clarify package offerings before you spring for one – the descriptions are creatively and charmingly worded, but perhaps not the clearest.

พานารัน ถ.เพลินจิต

health & wellness

WAIORA SPA (map E4) 1022 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 42/1 | BTS Ekkamai | 02-712-0358-9 | www. waioraspa.com | Tue-Sun 10am-10pm | $$$ You could dismiss the culture marketing behind this “New Zealand” spa as a gimmick…if it weren’t done with such thorough sincerity, or work so well. Waiora (“healing water”) spa uses muds and salts from the Hellsgate hot spring area, and Maori massage techniques to great result. Don a spa-provided swimsuit and take a dip in three heated pools, designed to cleanse, moisturize, nourish and protect the skin. Settle in for a rhythmic Waiora massage – the rocking motions and strong but soothing pressure guarantee that you’ll wind up snoring on the table. The facial cleanse is simple, streamlined, but effective, and service is smooth. Décor is country-club locker room spare – light woods, tile, bamboo “bridges,” – as the spa is set in the clubhouse on the Tee Off driving range, but this hasn’t seemed to dissuade fancy Thai and Japanese ladies from becoming loyal customers.

ไวโอรา สปา สุขุมวิท 42/1

Waiora Spa

TYPICAL SPA COST RANGE

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

bangkok 101

medical tourism

magine an ultramodern hospital to find they are medically ineligible. where you can book same-day appointments with internationally CAVEAT EMPTOR We leave it up to comprehensive English language accredited physicians. Picture waiting areas “Thailand is now our readers to pick a website detailing clinical specialities, hospital and a physician services and prices. Some even offer staffed with smiling the undisputed based on their own discounts to international patients. orderlies dispensing leader in Asia’s All medical procedures carry careful research. free cold towels and rapidly growing While by no means an some risks. The more litigious drinking water. Think medical tourism exhaustive list, each among us should take into account you’re dreaming? industry” of the hospitals listed that complications resulting from You’re not. Welcome on the following page procedures performed in Thailand to Bangkok, where top-tier hospitals offer state-of-the- has given special attention to training might not be covered by insurance, and art services for a fraction of what staff and providing facilities specifically compensation via malpractice lawsuits you would pay in Western Europe, geared toward an international may not be adequate in certain cases. clientele. Each also maintains a Australia or the USA. Siam Swan Clinic Thailand is now Asia’s undisputed leader in the rapidly growing medical FEATURED tourism industry. Many Thai-born MEDICAL TREATMENT physicians who have trained and practised abroad for years are now returning home to cash in on the According to the old adage, beauty is only skin country’s healthcare boom. deep. And be it the blight of old age, smoking or The people fuelling the boom too many hours lying in the sun, the number of hail mainly from developed people – and more men than ever before – paying countries where waiting times for attention to their skin condition is at an all time high. A stroll through any of major procedures have become Bangkok’s luxury shopping malls, where skincare centres are more prevalent unacceptably long. Others are fleeing than bookshops, reveals their popularity. And the variety of facial and body from nations where rising healthcare treatments is astounding. costs make it a bargain to travel halfThailand has stayed well on top of the latest international advances in way across the world for treatment. dermatological and aesthetic skincare.The equipment and technology is statePopular procedures run the gamut of-the-art: from high-tech laser therapy to non-laser treatments like microfrom face lifts, breast enhancements dermabrasion and more holistic forms of skin rejuvenation. The mission, it and liposuction to organ transplants, seems, is the same: optimise and revitalise the look and feel of your skin, multi-valve heart bypasses, back improve firmness, or just lose those wrinkles, scars and blemishes to look surgeries and hip replacements. younger, and healthier. If you’re only in town for a short On a par with Thailand’s other medical practices, skincare therapists here time, don’t despair. Complete medical are well-trained – in many cases overseas. And their services come with a far check-up packages, dental procedures more reasonable price tag than in the West. All this makes Bangkok an ideal and minimally invasive beauty place to indulge in matters of the skin. procedures like botox injections and laser skin resurfacing can be WHERE TO CARE FOR YOUR SKIN scheduled with virtually no lead time. ■ Hydrohealth Centre | 4th Fl., Erawan Bangkok | 02-250-7800 | www. If you’re considering undergoing a hydrohealth.co.th | Open 10am – 8pm | BTS Chitlom more complicated surgical procedure ■ Tria Integrative Wellness | 998 Rim Khlong Samsen Rd | 02-660-2602 | requiring recovery time, it would www.triaintegrativewellness.com | Open 10am – 8:30pm behove you to see a doctor while ■ S Medical Spa | 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg,Wireless Rd | 02-253-1010 | www. you’re in town to determine if your smedspa.com | Open 10am – 10:30pm | BTS Ploenchit physical condition makes you a suitable ■ Siam Swan Clinic | Siam Square Soi 1 | 02-658-4884~6 | www. candidate for the procedure. If all goes bangkoklaser.com | Open 10:30am - 6pm Mon-Sat well, you can plan to return for your ■ Apex Skin & Laser Centre | Emporium, Siam Paragon, Sukhumvit Soi 39 | surgery at a later date. Pre-approval Call centre 02-664-8817 | www.apexprofoundbeauty.com | Open 10am – 9pm largely eliminates the risk faced by ■ Romrawin Skin & Laser Clinic | Central Chidlom, Central World, those who travel long distances only Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 02-661-5255 | www.romrawin.com | Open 10am – 8pm

SKIN CARE

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health & wellness

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H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES THE PILATES STUDIO (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloenchit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-650-7797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซา เพลินจิต YOGA ELEMENTS (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเมนท 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม) Yoga Elements

Tria

As marvellous as Bangkok may be there are certain downsides to it that will start to wear on you. The heat and pollution will wear your body down and the breakneck speed may be too much for some to handle. Fear not as there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. TRIA INTEGRATIVE WELLNESS (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02-660-2600 | daily 7am-10pm | www.triaintegrativewellness.com Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-theart equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you. ศูนยสขุ ภาพองครวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ. ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปยะเวท) HYDROHEALTH (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloenchit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | daily 10am-8pm | www.hydrohealth.co.th The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand it has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids yourself of all the unwanted toxins

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in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems.The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

ไฮโดรเฮลท เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ. เพลินจิต

S MEDICAL SPA (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | daily 10am-10pm | www.smedspa.com The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available. เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ. วิทยุ RASAYANA RETREAT (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | daily 9am-8pm | www.rasayanaretreat.com They are specialists in deepcleansing programs and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely wor th stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible. รัสยานา รีทรีทต ซ. พรอมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39 bangkok 101

Courses&Ser vices

courses Benjarong

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint.

บลู เอเลแฟนท ถ. สาทรใต (รถไฟฟาสุรศักดิ์)

COOKING CLASSES BENJARONG ROYAL THAI CUISINE RESTAURANT The Dusit Thani | 946 Rama IV Rd | 02200-9000 ext. 2699 | www.dusit.com Want to learn how to cook like a top Thai chef at one of the most elegant restaurants in town? Here’s your chance: The Benjarong Royal Thai Restaurant at the luxurious Dusit Thani Hotel is holding half-day cooking classes Monday through Friday from 2pm to 5pm. The course is run by Benjarong’s head chef himself, Surasak Kongsawat, who has racked up dozens of prestigious culinary awards and medals over his 18-year career in the kitchen. He is also an expert fruit and vegetable carver and you will have the option of learning how to carve fruit along with preparing three exceptional Thai dishes, or choose to learn a fourth recipe if carving doesn’t interest you. Both options include commemorative photos and course completion certificates. Courses are B3,000net pp or B4,200net if you’d like your very own Dusit Cookbook as well. The price includes a 5-course set dinner at the restaurant.

เบญจรงค รร. ดุสติ ธานี ถ. พระราม 4

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 114

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทยแผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02-711-5270-3 | www. chivasomacademy.com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. The high but justified prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses available in reflexology and shiatsu.

ชีวาศรม อินเตอรเนชันแนล อะคาเดมี โมเดิรนทาวน 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well. Perfect for a serious, but short stint into Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หนาพระลาน

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

THE LOTUS FLOWER FOUNDATION

Eradicating child abuse is no easy task. Especially when many victims find it hard to break free of the vicious cycle of abuse and often go on to become abusers themselves. Hats off then to the Lotus Flower Foundation (LFF) – this nascent Thai-Swiss NGO has made this mission in Thailand theirs. Founded by Gabrielle Nujna von Reding, it plans to achieve this noble aim by campaigning for increased social awareness through various methods. These include government policy change, education, encouraging social cooperation to report abuse and the education and reintegration of children into society via professionally run shelters. Instrumental to its success are several dovetailing programs, including the founding of an LFF Academy to train caregivers and the building of a pilot rehabilitation shelter (both due to open in Nondburi in early 2009). Serving as a model for its East-West informed, holistic teaching methods, the shelter will give 30 severely abused orphans between the ages of three and 12 new hope, a home and the chance to overcome their trauma. So, how can you help their cause? One small way is by going to Bed Supperclub (p.84) and enjoying a Lotus Bloom cocktail – B50 from each one sold will go to LFF. However, more substantial ways to lend support include cash donations and volunteering. Professionals with a background in holistic approaches to childeducation such as the Montessori schooling system and trauma relief methods (art/dance healing, meditation, pranayama, yoga, music, reiki, etc) are especially welcome. They are also looking for people to help with IT, audits, editing, fundraising and the construction of the rehabilitation shelter in Nondburi. For more information log on to www.thelotusflowerfoundation.org

Fund-raising Gala dinner at Bed Supperclub

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cour ses & ser vices

115

Sports

sports

Muay Thai

SPECTATOR SPORTS MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing or Muay Thai is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadiums. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past Kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safety-conscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three fi veminute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF and the blows are hard hitting and real. 116

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.33) on any given Sunday and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums. The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Head to any park in the city around 5pm-6pm, and you’ll be able to spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly following the instructions of an enthusiastic coach to blaring disco dance songs. The spor ts

THAI BOXING VENUES Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama iV Rd, next to Suan lum night bazaar | mRt lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights tue & Fri from 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pm-midnight | b1,000 b1,500 b2,000)

สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4 ติดกับสวนลุมไนท บาซาร

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen nok avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights mon, Wed, thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | b1,000 b1,500 b2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Chatuchak Park. Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in! bangkok 101

Major Bowl

ACTIVE SPORTS BADMINTON Racquet Club (map D4) Sukhumvit 49/9 | 02-714-7200 Yen Akat Court (map C4) Soi Yen Akat | 02-249-6935-6 A family favourite in Thailand is badminton which is played by both young and old. A big reason for it being popular is the relative ease of setting up a game. All you need is a racquet, a shuttlecock, someone to watch out for cars, and you’re ready to go. It’s often played in neighbourhoods, in front of houses, whether hitting over fences or just simply on the street. Many housing estates will have courts available for rent or even free of charge. Some centrally located courts include the youth centre in Lumphini Park, Racquet Club and Yen Akat Court. BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof-the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lo, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK. CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089-895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com | am 6pm (Mon-Fri), 10am-3pm (Sat) | V M This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 11 years, and it offers extra bangkok 101

ordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kret and along atmospheric, rural canals in Bangkok’s undiscovered countryside (22 - 40kms, US$50US$55). They start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailor-made itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenaline-parched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand and its neighbours. ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Rachadapisek Rd, Esplanade 4th Fl | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more like a nightclub on ice. Popular among

Spiceroads

spor ts

youngsters, its 682 square metres of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B700-1500 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Center (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with Thai ace Paradorn Srichaphan, who became the first Asian player to achieve a top ten ranking just a couple of years ago, bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels will offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people a little, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 117

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survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words. Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement). The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then. Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you? I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

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sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná kho˘ thôt khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669

WESTERN COUNTRIES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-6300 | www.austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place, 15th Fl, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.bangkokinternational.gc.ca Delegation for the Commission of European Communities Kiam Gwan Bldg II, 19th Fl, 140/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-2600 | www.deltha.cec.eu.int New Zealand M Thai Tower, 14th Fl, All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu Rd | 02-254-2530 | www.nzembassy. com/thailand U.S.A. 120-122 Witthayu Rd | 02205-4000; www.usa.or.th/embassy United Kingdom 1031 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-8333 | www.ukinthailand. fco.gov.uk ASIAN COUNTRIES Cambodia 185 Ratchadamri Rd | 02957-5851-2 | RECBKK@hotmail.com China 57 Ratchadaphisek Rd, Din Daeng | 02-245-7043/4 | www.chinaembassy.or.th India 46 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 02-2580300/5 | www.indianembassy.gov. in/bangkok Indonesia 600-602 Phetchaburi Rd | 02-252-3135/40 Japan 177 Wireless Rd | 02-6963000, 02-207-8500 | www.th.emb-japan.go.jp Korea 23 Thiam Ruammit Rd, Ratchadaphisek | 02-247-7537/40 | korembas@ksc.th.com Laos 520, 502/1-3 Wang Thonglang Rd | 02-539-6667 | www.bkklaoembassy.com (Visa Section)193 South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3964 Malaysia 33-35 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-2190/5 Myanmar 132 North Sathorn Rd | 02-233-2237, 02-234-4698, 02-2344789 | mebkk@asianet.co.th Philippines 760 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-259-0139/40 | www.philembassybangkok.net Singapore 129 South Sathorn Rd | 02-286-2111 Vietnam 83/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-251-5836

LOST CREDIT CARDS CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am-8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) Diners Club 02-238-3660 (24hours) MEDICAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHONE SERVICES Bangkok Directory Inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 International Long Distance 100 Overseas Subscribers Call 001 TOURISM OFFICES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist Information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-2829773, 02-250-5500 | daily 8:30am4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www.bangkoktourist.com IMMIGRATION DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am4pm

bangkok 101

reference

contacts TRANSPORT PLANE Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Airport Call Centre 02-132-1888 Bangkok Airways Reservations 99 Moo 14, Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd, Lat Yao, Chatuchak | 02-265-5555 | www.bangkokair.com Air Asia Reservations Suvarnabhumi International Airport A1-062 G Fl., Concourse A| 02-5159999 | www.airasia.com Thai Airways Intâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;l Reservations Suvarnabhumi International Airport 4th Fl. Row F | 02-356-1111 | www.thaiair.com TRAIN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 SKYTRAIN/SUBWAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-6122444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BUS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mo Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai) MRT Subway

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getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options.

ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con equipped taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the public taxi queue at the street level outside the terminal, an additional B50 is added to the metered fare.

groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B9-25. Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers.

RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. For more information: www.bts.co.th

MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their orange vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up

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Tuk-Tuk

to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B15 to B39. For more information: www.bangkokmetro.co.th RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.34) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of intercity waterways offers a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance. Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3. CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B12 to B22. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. bangkok 101