Bangkok 101 - October 2010 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

october 2010 100 baht

Paradise t h r o u g h t h paradise e e y e s found of his kingdom

Digging up Bangkok’s musical past

october 2010

HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

publisher’s

letter

october 2010

Though we’ve touched on most facets of Bangkok’s rich culture over the years, this month’s photo feature Paradise Found is a first for us – a look at the world of the old Bangkok record shop. In it, world music DJ and vinyl junkie Chris Menist tells of his trips to these stores to forage for old records with lost luk thung and mor lam, or Thai folk, gems cut into their dusty grooves. Photographs by David Proctor, many shot using his trusty Rolliflex, captures this hobby that has given rise to acclaimed music compilations, not to mention debatably the city’s most original club night in years, Paradise Bangkok. Also in this issue, our Chronicle of Thailand excerpt recounts the tragi-comic death of movie great Mitr Chaibancha. This year marks the 40 year anniversary of his passing, and coincides with the release of Red Eagle, a big-budget reboot of the masked crime movie franchise he died shooting. Meanwhile, Very Thai touches on another infamous anniversary – the bloody political protests back in October 1973 and ‘76 that spawned the pleng peuer cheewit folk music movement, or Songs for Life. This month’s 1 on 1 picks one of the brains behind Spirits: Creativities from Beyond, a subtly sinister exhibition over at the Thailand Creative & Design Centre that explores this land’s obsession with spooks – and how the creative industries here cash in on it. It’s just one of several spine-chilling events in Metrobeat this month. Head to p.11 for a rundown that includes Zombie Walks, Halloween shindigs, a concert by Vampire Weekend, and, ahem, charity fun-runs (we assure you, they’re terrifying). Elsewhere, we bring you more of Bangkok and beyond, starting with a new Charoen Krung Road Route 101 that will have you bounding down the city’s first paved road on an architecture-seeking mission; our Daytrip is to not-yet-tourist-thronged old market Tha Na, out in Nakom Pathom province; while Over the Border explores the Malaysian state of Malacca through a foodie’s eyes. And we have reviews, lots of them. Picks include new restaurants Boran and Paris Bangkok, as well as Thai folk arts and crafts shop The Chonabod and new riverside boutique hotel Praya Palazzo. Join us back here next month when we’ll be celebratcaters kok 101 y sed, Bang what the ia b ing our 5th birthday (and the end of the rainy season) with a n n a u th d n re a o t n m r e r e d geth rn fo Indepen focus on the Thai Kingdom’s less travelled Northeast: yes, who yea ooks. It brings to ters, travellers , wri ideb u ts g n e d d we’ve lined you up a no-holds-barred Isan special. te to savvy si a sult f city re ighty, d

What i1s01? Bangkok

Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

re e o find in w tive who’s who tors. The vel ommenta rita tra an autho ers and cultural c brid of monthly hy ph off the photogra ct and intelligent kes you on and a the ta p t y a m o lo th emp s is a c azine city mag ack. Bangkok 101 and no d t n u a e sm id o gu tourist tr no fluff, n ught. well-worn al standards, with nt cannot be bo , ri te rs o n e it o d d c ur rea highest e ls. Our editorial cus on o re fo a e ri th to r in ensu adve ainta rously m ing mission is to ch We rigo u go m n s o a r y u it o c and great is th y . jo it n in they e ve living as we lo

contributors

Chris Menist

Chris Menist is a DJ, writer and musician based in Bangkok. He co-runs club nights ‘Paradise Bangkok’ and ‘24 Track Loop’ with DJ Maft Sai.

Philip CornwelSmith

Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness: Thailand and international magazines.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published by Insight Guides.

Brian Mertens

Author Brian Mertens helped spotlight Thailand’s new wave of textiles and furniture in his recent coffee table volume Bangkok Design. Previously he wrote Architecture of Thailand: A Guide to Traditional and Contemporary Forms. He writes on culture, travel and current affairs for such publications as New York Times, Art AsiaPacific and Forbes. A former resident of New York City and Tokyo, he has lived in Thailand since 1997, the year he won the Citibank Prize for Excellence in Journalism.

David Procter

David Procter moved from London to Bangkok to take up a teaching position at an International school in 2003. Inspired by a new life in Asia he bought a camera to document his experiences, but combined with a passion for meeting people and finding stories he soon found photography becoming an ever increasing part of his life. Now back in the UK, David shoots mainly for pleasure whilst pursuing personal projects but also undertakes commercial work and commissions.

Steven Pettifor

British-born writer-ar tist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinar y fame . She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the nightout culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia. com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Associate Publisher Parinya Krit-Hat Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Deputy Editor Simon Ostheimer Designer Narong Srisaiya Editorial Assistant Piyakwan Mettaprasert Pattarasuda Prajittanond Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,TAT Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Erika Teo Sales & Marketing Manager Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Circulation Pradchya Kanmanee Nuntila Sompoo Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2010. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents snapshots

8 9 10 11 14 15 16 17

101 picks 1 on 1: nunnaree panichkul events calendar metro beat history chronicle of thailand customs very thai: songs for life

sightseeing 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 26 28 29 30 32 33 34 37 38 39 40 42

orientation riverside route101:rattanakosin route101: chinatown route101: charoen krung route101: sukhumvit route101: pathumwan siam and pratunam temples historic buildings kids in the city & shrines museums the great outdoors what next? day tripping day trip: tha na market national parks: phu kradung upcountry festivals upcountry escape: sukhothai over the border: malacca

on the cover: A record store shop front at Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Saphan Lek market.

october 2010

arts 44 45 46 54 55 56 57

contemporary art exhibitions photo feature: paradise found performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening

table of

contents

october 2010

accommodation 106 boutique bangkok

health & wellness 76

food & drinks 58 59 60 61 62 63 68 72 73 74 75 76 77 78

dining in bangkok meal deals thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants neighbourhood nosh: dim-sum brunching tea late dining sweet treats all you can eat wine

nightlife 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 96

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars bars jazz clubs live music nightlife areas pub crawling

108 109 110 111

body & beauty spas wellness centres medical tourism

sports

112 spectator sports 113 active sports

business 114 business 115 real estate

106

courses & services

116 cooking, meditation & thai massage, courses 117 making merit

reference 118 survival thai 119 contacts 120 getting around

108 117

shopping 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105

unique boutique stuff shopping tips bangkok design mall crawl chatuchak market markets sidewalks

114

Daily the resident herbal ball creator demonstrates how she fills the Lavana herbal ball pouch with 18 different freshherbs that will be used to massage along the energy lines of the body

Special Promotion 1st – 31st October 2010 Free breakfast at Lavana everyday from 09.00 am.- 13.00 pm with any oil massage treatment and any oil massage get free facial treatment from 09.00 am.- 15.00 pm. Lavana Bangkok

No.4 soi Sukhumvit 12, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoey, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110 Tel: +66(0) 2 2294510-12, mail@lavanabangkok.com For taxi: ลาวานา ตรงจากปากซอยสุขุมวิท 12 ประมาณ 100 เมตรอยู่ด้านขวามือ ตึกใหญ่สีเขียว Opening hours: 09.00 am.-00.00 am. (last reception 23.00 pm.) Advance booking is highly recommended

Snapshots

101 picks

Before rushing off to a tropical island in the Gulf of Thailand or the green mountains of Chiang Rai, scratch beneath Bangkok’s gritty surface to uncover these shining gems that’ll keep you here longer.

shopping

thai style

dining

open air

nightlife

■ Chatuchak A huge, sprawling village of a market that sells everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.103).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds and fish, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.117).

■ Sunday Brunch Make like the Thais do, and spend your Sunday by lazing around with friends and enjoying a late breakfast (p. 73).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a zoo and the historic Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous green gardens (p.28).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day, party all night and never grow old. The City of Angels has a night out to suit everyone (pp.80-92).

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar This pleasant evening market is full of arts, crafts, textiles, and a large Chang beer garden (p.104).

■ Thai Massage Though your body will thank you for it later, expect to be stretched to the limit by eager masseuses (p.108).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more? Then these shopping mall stalls make for an excellent alternative.

■ River Boats See a different side of Bangkok and take a boat up north to Nonthaburi or explore the Thonburi canals (p.19).

■ Cabarets With performers that ooze grace, poise, and, ahem, Adam’s apples, you won’t see a better show in town (p.83).

■ Siam Square Bangkok’s young and hip gather at this cradle of cool to watch the latest flicks, and pick up stylish threads (p.102).

■ Thai Cooking Learn how to pound paste like a professional at one of the many Thai cooking classes held around town (p.116).

■ River Dining With plenty of restaurants lining its banks, the Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome dinner backdrop. (p.19).

■ Cycling Tour Although unexpected, touring by bike can be one of the best ways to explore Bangkok and its surroundings (p.113).

■ Sky-high Drinks Become a high-flier for the night and enjoy a cocktail while looking down on the glittering Bangkok skyline (p.84).

■ Patpong Always busy, this small strip in the CBD is packed with market stalls and go-go bars (p.105).

■ Thai Boxing Place your bets and watch the brutal yet noble art of Muay Thai, or kickboxing (p.112).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of these special offers to eat at the city’s best restaurants (p.59).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the fun museum park of Muang Boran and see Thailand in miniature (p.34).

■ Dining Cruises Enjoy a fine meal and even better views as you gently travel along the Chao Phraya (p.59).

■ Panthip Plaza Without doubt this is the ultimate computer geek mecca. If you can’t find it here, you haven’t looked hard enough (p.102).

■ TCDC Often hosting workshops and talks, the Thailand Creative & Design Centre fosters Thai designers (p.55).

■ Street Food Order up a dish, sit down on a plastic stool and prepare to taste the core ingredients of Bangkok life (p.62).

■ Lumpini Park This huge green space in the heart of the city. is perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the several lakes (p.32).

■ Twist & Shout Whether you get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11, there’s a dancefloor for you (pp.94-95).

■ Siam Paragon This mall is probably one of the swishest you’ll ever visit. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be on the third floor (p.102).

■ The Jim Thompson House This former CIA spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade from scratch, then disappeared. (p.28).

■ Affordable Gourmet Dining If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, the city has plenty of affordable fine dining (p.63).

■ Flower Market Located close to the river, this magical 24-hour market offers much more than just fragrant surrounds (p.104).

■ Thai Theatre TraditionalThai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.54).

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bangkok 101

1 on 1

Nunnaree Panichkul What’s the aim of ‘Spirits’? To explain the cultural and anthropological history Thailand and the rest of the world has with fear and the supernatural, and also how spirits and ghosts are still living with us today. Why does the exhibition open with visitors entering a dark empty room? It’s there to show how people project their instinctive fears onto the unseen – fear is really nothing to do with the external but all in their imagination. Did you set out to scare? Well, when we talked to our friends and families about the show, half the questions were, “Is it going to be scary?” or “Are there going to be ghosts?”, so we tried to factor that in. But no, not really; it’s visitors’ fear of the unknown that makes it scary. If you come around 4:30pm when school is out you’ll find kids come here and just scream and scream and scream. The models of Thai and foreign ghosts are scary though. Where are they from? We commissioned Khun Vitaya Deerattakul, a movie special effects bangkok 101

and prosthetics guy from Thailand’s Q FX Workshop, to make them for us. In order to make them less scary, each ghost has an information board beside it explaining more about them – their names, sex, where they live, special powers, and their influence on culture. Do any Bangkok spirits feature? Yes, there’s a model of Mae Nak, the legendary female ghost from the Prakanong area who died while pregnant. We went to her shrine to pay our respects before the show started. Actually, before we set up the show we had a Hindu and Buddhist ceremony where a spirit thread was tied around the perimeter of the whole hall and the crew making merit, just to be sure that everything will be okay. Any other highlights? Apart from the Hall of Ghosts, the most popular section shows how over the years Thailand’s movie and TV industries have used local ghost tales to scare the masses – and make money. There’s a section on old Thai ballads, or se-pha, one on local horror radio dramas and talk-shows, snapshots

The talk of the town in art circles right now is Spirits: Creativities from Beyond at Emporium’s Thailand Creative and Design Centre (p.55). Though its pitchblack corridors and hall of chilling waxwork ghosts are eliciting plenty of screams, it’s no cheapthrill house of horrors – most of this free and thought-provoking exhibition is focused on how the paranormal realm intersects with the modern world, in particular Thailand’s entertainment industry. Max Crosbie-Jones met assistant curator Nunnaree Panichkul to uncover the ghost in the machine. one on scary pulp comic books from the 1950s through to the present, and a section about Thai horror films and their unique atmosphere. Why is Thailand is more in touch with its spirit side than most countries? In Thailand, notions about the spirit world are with us from the moment we’re born and never leave us. I also think there are a lots of times when modern day technology cannot help us and I think at those times we Thais turn to spirits to console us or explain things. How long does the show run for? It runs until November 21st but we’re hoping to extend it until January. We might also run an exhibition up in Chiang Mai, too, because we are planning to open a new branch of the TCDC there in the not too distant future.

Snapshots David Foster

october calendar Thu 7 Boys Noize

Thu 7 Joey Calderazzo Trio

Thu 7 Stanley Jordan

808 Bangkok | www.808bangkok.com

Rangsit University, Paholyothin Soi 87 | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B800

M Theatre (Bangkok Playhouse), Huay Kwang | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B900-B2,000

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit | 02-651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | B800

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Sat 9-Sun 24 Bangkok’s 12th International Festival of Dance & Music

Sat 9 Amari Watergate and BMW Thailand Charity Run

Wed 13 Ignasi Terraza Jazz Trio vs Kamala Sukosol

Thailand Cultural Centre | 02-247-0028 | www.bangkokfestivals. com

Amari Watergate hotel, Pratunam | 02-653-9000 | www.amari.com | B300, B1,000

Siam City Hotel, Si Ayuthaya Rd. | 02-2470123 | B500, B1,050

Sat 16 2nd Annual Thai Zombie Walk

Sat 16 Bangkok Music Marathon

Siam Paragon, Sukhumvit Soi 11, Q Bar | www.bedsupperclub.com

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B500-B1,200

Sat 16 2nd Annual Wine Harvest Dinner & Auction

Thu 21- Sun 24 Kids of the World 2010 Impact Arena Challenger 3, Muang Thong Thani | 02-833-5122 | www.kidoftheworld.net | Free Entry Pick them up new toys and stationery while the little ones run amok.

Thu 21- Sun 31 Book Expo Thailand

Fri 22 Vampire Weekend

QSNCC | 02-954-9560 | www.thailandbookfair.com | Free Entry Pick up a new read at this expo bringing together 400 Thai publishing houses.

Thunder Dome, Muang Thong Thani | 02-504-5050 |B1,500

Mon 25 Yundi: Celebration of the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth

Sun 31 Bangkok Acoustic Guitar Celebration

Sat 9 Paradise Bangkok Cafe Democ, Rachadumnern Rd. | 02622-2572 | www.cafedemoc.com |B250

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’ Fri 15-Sat 16 The Punchline Comedy Club

The Bull’s Head | 02-259-4444 | B1,500

See Metrobeat ‘Comedy’

Thailand Cultural Centre | 02-247-0028 | B800-B3,000

See Metrobeat ‘Classical’ 10

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

Thu 7 Bed Supperclub 8th Year Anniversary Party

See Metrobeat ‘Music & Dance’

Centerpoint Playhouse, Central World | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B1,000-B3,000

See Metrobeat ‘Rock & Pop’

See Metrobeat ‘Charity’

See Metrobeat ‘Rock & Pop’

Sun 31 Halloween ‘Day of the Dead’ Party

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit | 02-6513537 | www.bedsupperclub. com See Metrobeat

‘Nightlife’

snapshots

Thu 7- Sun 17 Navaratri Festival Maha Uma Devi Temple, Silom Road

See Metrobeat ‘Festivals’

Fri 15 DJ Tom Middleton Q Bar, Sukhumvit Soi 11 |02-252-3274 | B800

See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

Maison Chin, Soi Sala Daeng | 081-894-3551 | B3,400

See Metrobeat ‘Food’ Sat 23-Sun 24 Bangkok International Houseware Fair 2010

BITEC| 02-547-4220 | www.bigandbih.com | Free Entry Let your inner interior designer run free at this mega home décor fair.

Until Nov 21 Spirits: Creativities From Beyond TCDC, Emporium Department Store | 02664-8448 | www.tcdc. or.th | Free

See Metrobeat ‘Exhibitions’ and ‘1 on 1’

Mon 18-Sat 23 Klaus Erfort Mandarin Oriental’s Le Normandie | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental. com/bangkok

See Metrobeat ‘Food’

Mon 25 Hitman David Foster & Friends Live in Bangkok Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani | 02-504-5050 | B1,000-B4,500

See Metrobeat ‘Rock & Pop’

Trade Fairs Performance Live Music Shopping Festivals/Events Food & Drink exhibition Sport Nightlife

bangkok 101

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings. By Howard Richardson.

film

festival

The European Union Film Festival 2010 features 19 films from 15 countries at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (02-214-6632) from October 21-31. And best of all, they’re free to watch. There will also be a mini European Food Festival on October 23 and 24. See www.deltha.ec.europa.eu for the full schedule.

The ten-day Navaratri Festival, held at several Indian temples around Bangkok from October 7-17, has its main focus at Maha Uma Devi Temple on Silom Road. The religious rites, fire rituals and shamans peak on the final day with processions, music, cultural activities and food stalls.

Music & dance

jazz Stanley Jordan brings his celebrated fretboard tapping technique to the M Theatre (Bangkok Playhouse) on October 7.The four-time Grammy nominated fusion guitarist has performed with the likes of Benny Carter, Quincy Jones and Dizzy Gillespie. Get tickets from Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor.com), priced B900-B2,000. It’s bad luck for jazz fans that October 7 is also the date the Joey Calderazzo Trio plays at Rangsit University (Paholyothin Soi 87). Pianist Calderazzo, a member of the Branford Marsalis Quartet, has played albums and gigs with artists such as Michael Brecker, Dave Holland and Jack De Johnette. His trio at Rangsit includes Grammy-winning bassist Eric Revis (also a Marsalis collaborator) and drummer Donald Edwards (Freddie Hubbard, Terrance Blanchard, Wynton Marsalis et al). Tickets (B800) from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com The Ignasi Terraza Jazz Trio brings Spanish swing to the Siam City Hotel (02-247-0123) on October 13, joined on stage by Thai singer Kamala Sukosol. Band leader and pianist Terraza won the 25th Great American Jazz Piano Competition in 2009 and has played with US stars such as Nicholas Payton, Lou Donaldson and Benny Golson. The group,also featuring Pierre Boussaguet and Esteve Pi, play a blend of stride, swing, bebop and blues. For more background visit www.ignasiterraza.com, tickets are B500 or B1,050 including either an international buffet at Patummat restaurant or Italian set dinner at Primavera. bangkok 101

metro beat

Bangkok’s 12th International Festival of Dance & Music at the Thailand Cultural Centre (02-247-0028) continues until October 24. Highlights include four one-act contemporary works from Brazil’s Cisne Negro Dance Company (Oct 9); Argentina’s Estempas Portenas Dance Company performing Tango Feeling (Oct 12); and the Swedish Jazz Kings, playing 1920s and 30s Chicago jazz (Oct 15). For the full programme see www.bangkokfestivals.com. Tickets are available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456; www.thaiticketmajor.com). Bangkok Symphony Orchestra Foundation

Great Artists of the World 2010

classical

Bangkok Symphony Orchestra Foundation B. Grimm & Co. R.O.P. and Credit Suisse AG have the honour to present

Celebrating the 200th Anniversary of the Birth of Frédéric Chopin

2000 Chopin Competition Winner

YUNDI, piano (formerly known as Yundi Li)

The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra Foundation continues its Great Artists of the World programme with a concert by pianist Yundi (formerly known as Yundi Li) at the Thailand Cultural Centre (02-247-0028) on October 25. Yundi won the 2000 Chopin Competition in Warsaw, and plays here in celebration of the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth. Tickets are B800-B3,000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). Polonaise in A major, Op. 40, No. 1 (Military) Five Nocturnes: Op. 9, Nos. 1 and 2; Op. 15, No. 2; Op. 27, No. 2; Op. 48, No. 1 Scherzo No. 2 in B flat major, Op. 31 Three Mazurkas, Op. 59 Sonata No. 2 in B flat major, Op. 35 Polonaise in A flat major, Op. 53 (Hero)

“A phenomenal pianist . . . real greatness” Die Welt, Berlin 8:00pm Monday 25 October 2010

Thailand Cultural Centre, Main Hall

exhibition Spirits: Creativities From Beyond examines the business of fear at the Thailand Creative and Design Centre (02-664-8448) until November 21. The exhibits portray the methods people use to profit from traditional beliefs, i.e. those who ‘bridge the spirit world and the world of business.’ The show is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10.30am-9pm. Admission free. Also see 1 on 1, p9.

snapshots

Snapshots

rock & POP

sport

Twenty Thai bands, including Paradox, Joey Boy and Thaitanium, play the Bangkok Music Marathon at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) from noon to midnight on October 16. Get tickets (B500-B1,200) from Thai Ticketmajor (02262-3456; www.thaiticketmajor.com). College cool and catchy tunes collide when Vampire Weekend bring songs like ‘Mansard Roof ’ and ‘Oxford Comma’ to the Thunder Dome (02-504-5050) on October 22. One of the most heralded ‘indie’ outfits of recent times, their neat arrangements, clever lyrics and soukous-inspired guitar riffs should make this one of the liveliest gigs of the year. With support from local band 25 Hours, tickets (B1,500) are available from Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456; www.thaiticketmajor.com). Meanwhile, a slew of finger-pickers gather for the Bangkok Acoustic Guitar Celebration at Centerpoint Playhouse on October 31. Heading the show is Australia’s two-time Grammy nominee Tommy Emmanuel, but also expect big things from 13-year-old South Korean virtuoso Sungha Jung. Andy Mckee and Thailand’s Thak Lekkra and Roberto Uno are also on the bill. As always, Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor. com) has tickets (B1,000-B3,000). Finally, David Foster is the writer or producer of massive hits such as ‘I Will Always Love You’, ‘Unforgettable’ and ‘Breathless’ for stars likeWhitney Houston, Kenny G and Celine Dion. He’s at Impact Arena (02-504-5050) on October 25, as Hitman David Foster & Friends Live in Bangkok. The friends include singers Natalie Cole, Charice and the Canadian Tenors. Tickets, from Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, www.thaiticketmajor.com) are B1,000-B4,500.

charity The organisers are expecting more than 5,000 runners for the annual Amari Watergate & BMW Thailand Charity Midnight Run on October 9. They will depart from the Amari Watergate hotel (02-653-9000) at midnight, and – as if the effort of running either the 6km or 12km courses isn’t enough – will then attend a postrun cocktail party at Henry J Bean’s Bar & Grill (though 5,000 might be a squueze). Entry forms are available at www.amari.com. All proceeds go to charity. 12

The exciting finals of the PTT Thailand Open international tennis tournament run until October 3 at Impact Arena (02504-5050). Participating players include World No. 1, Wimbledon, French and US Open winner Rafael Nadal and 2009 US Open champion Juan Martin del Potro. Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com) is serving tickets from B300.

comedy The Punchline Comedy Club brinsg more laughs to the Bull’s Head (02-259-4444) with three acts on October 15 and 16. According to the Sydney Morning Herald, Aussie Darren Sanders is “not dissimilar to Billy Connolly”; Time Out says Pierre Hollins is “bloody funny”; while, as the Scotsman would have it, Philberto has “flashes of mad comic genius”. Show starts at 9pm on both nights, tickets are B1,500.

food Three-star Michelin chef Klaus Erfort takes on the kitchens at the Mandarin Oriental’s Le Normandie (02-659-9000) from October 18-23, serving dishes from his restaurant GasteHaus Klaus Erfort, in Saarbrucken, Germany. Along with Erfort’s lunches and dinners, the opening night is paired with a visit by winemaker Hubert de Bouard of Chateau Angelus, in Bordeaux. Chefs from the Bangkok restaurants Maison Chin, Bo.lan, Gianni and Masatomi Patisserie provide the plates for the Wine Harvest Dinner & Auction at Maison Chin (02-266-0505) on October 16, with all proceeds going to the SCAD Foundation (formerly Soi Dog Rescue). Auction items include weekend retreats, artworks and fine wines. Tickets (B3,400) are available from SCAD (02-713-3354, www.scadbangkok.org).

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bangkok 101

Food & drink

nightlife There’s a full agenda throughout the month at Bed Supperclub (02-651-3537), including the Bed Supperclub 8th Year Anniversary Party on October 7, with a dress code of ‘Mexican Flag’. That’s green, red and white with a bird, a cactus and a snake on it, so there’s a lot to play with. Starts at 9pm; tickets (B800) include one drink. Other October highlights are Boris Dlugosch vs AC Slater (Oct 14) – Dlugosch is known for work on Groovejet’s ‘If This Ain’t Love’ and Moloko’s ‘Sing It Back’ – and Timo Maas (Oct 21), feted for the remix of the huge club hit ‘Doom’s Night’ by Azzido da Bass. The month winds down with Funk Agenda (Oct 28), a Grammy winner with the Black Eyed Peas in 2009, and Halloween (Oct 31), a ‘Day of the Dead’ party, also with a Mexican theme. German techno DJ and producer Alex Ridha, aka Boys Noize, appears at 808 Bangkok (www.808bangkok. com) on October 7, as part of his Asian tour. The DJ is known for his “frenetic, physical style”, plus the albums Oi Oi Oi and Power, and remixes for Kaiser Chiefs, Snoop Dogg and Marylin Manson. Two Bangkok-based radio DJs, Maft Sai and Chris Menist, team up for the latest episode of Paradise Bangkok at Café Democ (02-622-2572; www.cafédemoc.com) on October 9. Their unique sound is an off-the-wall mix including funk, Jamaican roots, soul and the local forms morlam and luk thung. The fun runs from 9pm till late; tickets (B250) include a free beer and shot of herbal Thai moonshine, or ya dong. Also see the feature Paradise Found, p.46, written by Menist himself. DJ Tom Middleton, whose remix catalogue includes Prince and All Saints, brings an eclectic programme of drum & bass, ambient and techno to Q Bar (02-2523274) on October 15. The entrance fee of B800 includes two drinks. Finally, get your fake blood and hollowed eye makeup on and lurch on down to Siam Paragon, where the 2nd Annual Thai Zombie Walk begins at 5pm on October 16. From there take the BTS and drag your rotting limbs along Sukhumvit Soi 11 (the gig is run by the Suk Soi 11 Association) for parties at Nest (7pm-9pm) and Q Bar (9pm-11pm). For more info see www.bedsupperclub.com.

bangkok 101

Rossini’s

Long-standing Italian favourite Rossini’s has a new chef in Federico Allegri. The native of Piedmonte in northern Italy had his initial taste of Asia when he cooked at the 2008 Beijing Olympics. Now making his mark in Bangkok, Chef Allegri will be adding favourite traditional dishes to the authentic setting at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit hotel. New items on the menu include mixed vegetables served with bagna cauda dip, a moreish blend of olive oil, mashed garlic and WHERE Sheraton anchovies in a hollowed Grande Sukhumvit hotel, roast onion; a delicious 250 Sukhumvit Rd, 02fava bean cream soup 649-8353; www.sheraton with fresh burrata cheese grandesukhumvit.com and olives; and suckling OPEN Mon-Fri noonpig belly with fennel seeds 2.30pm, daily 6.30pmand pumpkin purée. 10.30pm PRICE $$$ In terms of interior design think rustic Tuscan; with beams on the ceiling, a glazed tile floor, and a large stone fireplace with cosy alcoves – perfect for a romantic date or business meets. Meanwhile, the international wine list includes a Chilean at B1,800, and 14 Italians by the glass. This is upmarket dining with service and cuisine to match, but retaining a relaxed atmosphere – aided by strains of cool jazz from the neighbouring Living Room, the perfect place to retire for after dinner drinks.

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history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments at that time, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with the usual array of gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lines of snarled traffic.The core of the new city encompasses the

Sathorn/Silom districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas, leafy public parks and vibrant bar and restaurant scenes.These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. The gradually-

expanding public transportation networks, with their bright, snaking trains carrying wide-eyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped to relieve the city’s traffic congestion and pollution, but given the City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ (a name used mainly by foreigners), and instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It’s no surprise The Guinness Book of Records has registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

8 October 1970: Film legend Mitr plunges to his death

chronicle of thailand

ig screen superstar Pichet ‘Mitr’ Chaibancha plunged 90 metres to his death from a rope ladder attached to a helicopter during the filming of the final scene of his last movie. Mitr, 36, fractured his skull as he hit the ground and died instantly. A 20-man crew was shooting the final scene for the film Insee Thong (Golden Eagle) on Chonburi’s Dong Tan Beach, near Pattaya, when the accident happened. Mitr was climbing a rope ladder suspended from a helicopter and was to be lifted away as if he were an eagle flying into the sky. Mitr grabbed the ladder’s third rung “but he could not balance himself,” said actor Chumpol Theppitark, who starred opposite Mitr in the film. “As soon as Mitr’s hands touched the rope, the helicopter shot up.” The sudden movement snagged his right arm, causing him to dangle helplessly. “I heard Mitr shouting something unintelligible when he fell,” Chumpol said. The next day, nearly 100,000 grieving fans flocked to Wat Sunthorn Thammathan in Bangkok to pay their respects. Amid heavy rain, people pushed and shoved when Mitr’s body was brought in on a stretcher by pallbearers, who forced their way through the throng with the help of police. At least 10 people fainted in what the Bangkok Post called ‘the most riotous and trouble-plagued funeral rite in living memory’. Mitr had been injured several times during his 13-year career, which included around 300 films and secured his place as one of Thailand’s most popular movie idols. Even Queen Sirikit said, “I am one of his fans.” Mitr had formerly been a petty warrant officer in the air force. He also failed twice to be voted into political office.

Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eyewitness account of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events as they unfolded and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced. Every month in Bangkok 101, we serialise a major news story that sheds light on this month in the history of the Kingdom. Chronicle of Thailand – EDM Books | B1,450 | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | www.chronicleofthailand.com bangkok 101

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customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour while here, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king, and have deep reverence for the monarchy. in general. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly and still when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and many other public places. Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 16

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Unless meeting foreigners, Thais don’t shake hands but instead wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows humility. The higher the hands are raised, the more respect being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred in Thailand, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ Dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ Remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ Don’t step on the threshold ■ Don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ Avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ Be considerate when taking photographs inside the grounds ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to contact women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

Songs For Life

The soundtrack to 1970s rebellion, Thai folk-blues keeps relevant

very thai Philip Cornwel-Smith

Photo by Philip Cornwel-Smith & Add Carabao

Between the fifth reign’s waxed moustache and the hip-hop era goatee, the little facial hair cultivated in Thailand has bristled mostly on fans of Songs for Life. A musical offshoot of the left-leaning Art For Life movement, 1970s-style pleng peuer cheewit (Songs for Life) remains the soundtrack of disaffected middleaged Thai males with a penchant for radical chic. You can instantly spot these democracy pioneers, growing old grungily with their wispy beards, straggly long hair, and rumpled khaki fatigues, the ironic badge of anti-war theology. Yet the blood and sacrifice of which they sing was for real. Unlike the bleating peaceniks of corporate-sponsored T-Pop, the For Lifers actually fought. In an ‘incident’ that seared the national consciousness (although glossed over by school books), the military strongmen were driven into exile after shooting those protesting the arrest of constitution advocates. That was October 14, 1973, a date hallowed by the so-called ‘October Generation’, who were suppressed after another military-led massacre on October 6, 1976. During the sequence of theorising, protest, liberation, defeat, exile, amnesty, and then social work, ‘For Life’ activists found a distinctive look, lyric and music to suit the moment. Among the genre’s hirsute icons: hippies, Woodstock, Vietnam vets. Faced with such overwhelming facial hair and guitar strumming, earnest young Thais adopted the sartorial aspects of the politics along with the music. The potent combination of plaintive vocals, campaigning lyrics and bluesy guitar was then called progressive, though it now sounds rather dated. In the 1980s shift of Songs For Life from niche appeal to mass popularity, the key figure was Add Carabao, a household name thanks to immense talent, eloquence and courage. Named after his veteran band Carabao (‘buffalo’ in the Philippines, where the band had sought refuge after the 1976 crackdown), Add resembles an Asian Willie Nelson. He dons a bandanna emblazoned with the buffalo-skull logo that brands his own lines of clothing, pubs and energy drink. “But for the language disconnect, he’d be an international superstar,” says music executive Tim Carr.

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, city resident and author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself properly for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and snap up a copy of Very Thai now at any goodbook shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith bangkok 101

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Sightseeing

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– steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is Modern Bangkok. Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan (p.24) is

meared over the flat, floodprone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries and have different, tourist-luring attributes. On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.20) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown. And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th Century Europe. When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly

where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market. All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting ‘burbs) can be reached using the city’s roads. But the Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked streets in fridge-cool comfort! When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along smelly Klong Saen Saeb (p.120) and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats. Other tips include avoid scammers (p.26), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly. In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods. Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking sidestreet after another is half the fun.

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N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13 : Phra Athit Bkk’s young bohemians pensively sip coffee in the cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street. There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

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N15 :Thewet Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

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N9 : Tha Chang Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market. Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry? The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

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N1 : Oriental The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

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N6 : Memorial Bridge/ Saphan Pood Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

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N2 : Sri Phaya On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

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N8 :Tha Tien Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction. Wat Arun (p.26) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

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N10 : Wang Lang Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.54) are all in the vicinity.

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101

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on. The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which courses a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables click on to www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

bangkok 101

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Saphan Taksin Accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to Mandarin Oriental, Pennisula and Millenium Hilton hotels. Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

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sightseeing

Sightseeing

Rattanakosin

route 101 Whether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

elcome to Rattanakosin Island: birthplace of modern Bangkok and spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Rows of peeling old shophouses and glittering temple complexes – all gently curving roofs and soaring spires – pepper this hallowed area hemmed in by a bendy stretch of the Chao Phraya River and man-made canals. Start off at Wat Arun (p.26), also known as the Temple of Dawn. Though it actually predates the Rattanakosin era, it’s a cornerstone of Thai history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin

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then, once at the river, jump on an express boat heading right, upriver (ask someone to point one out). Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its soaring central Khmer-style spire, is easy to spot. After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross back to Tha Tien pier and make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.27). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles deknotted at the famous Thai massage school. Your temple initiation over, now head north for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: the Grand Palace (p.26) and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (p.26). Ignore the touts telling you it’s closed, and take plenty of time to boggle at the imagination that could give rise to such an ethereal royal complex (note: the B300 ticket is also valid for Dusit’s Vimanmek Mansion, p.28). Getting into this Thai culture stuff? Then exit and head A^_d Bec 9^ec IWf^Wd north across ancient ceremonial park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve into the National Museum (p.30). Ph ra Su me Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably nR W oa isu d tK find it is early evening. The rest of your evening is up to you asa tR oa d BANGLAMPHU – Rattanakosin has plenty of options. A good place to unwind over a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy eateries near the AWe IWd He WZ ad Ro Ratcha fort, along Phra Athit Road. Alternatively, grab a beer and some an :[ceYhWYo damno aw S Cedkc[dj en Klan g Road on kh pad thai noodles with the backpackers on Khao San Road. Back Na Luk Luang Road near Wat Po, cocktail bar Amorosa, with its picture-postcard J^_fiWcW_ views over the river of lit-up Wat Arun, is another failsafe old F>H7 D7A>ED IWe 9^_d] 9^W city walking tour closer. =_Wdj Im_d]

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Renaissance-style train station. Head straight on from Exit 1 and cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap Thai-China Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.27) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex. Continue along Yaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/ impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1

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aowarat as it is known locally is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, incense-shrouded Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses. It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in those pharmacy windows. And at night Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and on your right you’ll spot Bangkok’s main,

101

cHINATOWN

Rd). This narrow wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than Hello Kitty hairclips and schoolbags on offer now. Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonial-style warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.104) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on, there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neon-lit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Rd will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery like T&K Seafood to give your feet a wellearned rest.

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nce plied by horse carts and rickshaws, this stretch of the city’s oldest Europeanstyle paved road, built in 1860, is now inundated by buses and tuk-tuks. Yet, despite the encroachment of the modern world, the lanes off Charoen Krung remain a treasure trove of flaking colonial-style architecture, bustling street markets, multi-ethnic food, and eclectic places of worship dating back to the early 20th century, when the area was Bangkok’s main hub of foreign commerce. For this walking tour, perfect for a morning or afternoon, start by hopping off the Skytrain at Saphan Taksin station. From here, walk away from the river until you reach Charoen Krung, turn right and head for Wat Yannawa, with its unusual boat-shaped wiharn. The structure was built on the orders of King Rama III (1787-1851), who, as he saw steamships replacing junks, wanted his people to remember the old ships that had brought the kingdom prosperity. Back on Charoen Krung, stop to crane your neck at one of the city’s eeriest reminders of the 1997 Asian

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Financial Crisis – a half-built concrete shell towering 47 storeys high. If its rounded balconies look familiar, that’s because they closely resemble those of the nearby State Tower. Next, turn left and head back the way you came, pass underneath the Skytrain flyover and you’ve arrived in Bang Rak district (trivia: as its name means ‘village of love’, every Valentine’s Day the district office is inundated by hordes of loved-up newlyweds seeking to register their marriages). Just off the main road, Bang Rak Market’s food stalls make for a great snack stop before you venture past the aforementioned State Tower (a 68-floor neo-classical behemoth home to one of the world’s highest open-air restaurants, Sirocco) and seek out the red-brick Assumption Cathedral. Built by French missionaries, it’s one of the finest Catholic churches in Thailand. Exit back onto Soi Oriental and you’re in the old European trading quarter, with its classical Venetian-style leftovers, such as the stately East Asiatic Company building, situated right beside the Tha Oriental river pier. If it’s late sightseeing

afternoon and you’re feeling parched, brush past the doormen of the Mandarin Oriental hotel opposite and make for the all-white, colonial throwback that is the Author’s Lounge, easily the grandest afternoon tea haunt in town. After a soothing spot of cha in the same setting that and Ernest Hemingway, head back out and away from the river, turn left and towards OP Place – a white, gabled, circa 1908 department store turned pricey objet d’art centre – on your right. However, if browsing Buddhist relics of dubious origin, while a haughty hi-so madam looks you up and down, isn’t your bag, continue on and turn left. Here, at the end of a narrow lane, you’ll spot the adorably shabby Old Customs House, which used to be the gateway into Bangkok for foreign merchants long before the rot set in. Currently the Bang Rak fire station, it’s fine to have a nosey around, though a property developer’s sign by the front entrance suggests that may not be the case for much longer. Still some fuel left in your tank? From here, you could continue on to Haroon Village (a tasty little Muslim enclave) or head back onto Charoen Krung and towards the Bangkokian Museum (an early 20th century Thai home frozen in time; p30). Alternatively, catch a tuk-tuk up to Chinatown (p21) or River City shopping centre (p102), where you can browse more antiques, hop on a dinner cruise or catch an express river taxi back to Saphan Taksin pier.

bangkok 101

Sukhumvit

get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, worldclass designers here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative ike Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner, and Design Center (TCDC) on the Sukhumvit Road is a futuristic 6th floor, which continually stages thriller – a flawed, frenetic, yet thought-provoking, and usually free, often compelling urban streetscape. exhibitions. Afterwards, a jaunt among Hotel, condominium and office blocks the modern sculptures, trim greenery smother its skyline, while down below and cooing pigeons of adjoining a Who’s Who of world races moves Benjasiri Park will remind you there’s anonymously amongst them. Along its more to life than luxury brands. hi-octane main stretch traffic, pollution Shopaholics should probe Thong and noise assail the senses, while down Lo, staking out this unabashedly its many flanking sois calmer, more minted neighbourhood for designer serene atmospheres unfold. clothing, jewellery, furniture and Get a quick jump on the day books. Or, should you be toying with with a morning stroll around the lake in Benjakitti Park. Located adjacent to quick shot of culture. On Asok Road matrimony, wedding garb. Hop on the Queen Sirikit National Convention (the unofficial “border” die-hard over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice Center, which hosts world class expos Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross), of neon Tokyo. Once dinnertime rolls weekly (see calendar p.11), it is easily it’s an organisation dedicated to the around check out “Japan Town” in accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. preservation of Thai heritage, art and Thong Lo Soi 13, where a clutch of Next head to the Siam Society for a culture through study trips, lectures great Japanese restaurants like Uomasa and exhibitions. And out back is a lurk. stunning Northern Lanna teak house/ Finally, when it comes to ethnological museum. Sukhumvit, nighttime is definitely the After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain right time. Drinking, dining, dancing, and off to Phrom Phong station. Here debauchery – it’s all here. Perfect for you will find the cultural epicentre a puff on a shisha pipe, Sukhumvit of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to Soi 3 is Bangkok’s very own Little nouveau riche Thai consumerism, Arabia. Those looking to see how >WfW IfW Emporium. While you can easily the city’s young upper crust like to Ph par-tay should head to one of the et ch ab ur jumping joints along Thong Lo or i '$ 8[d`Wa_jj_ FWha Rd . ($ I_Wc IeY_[jo Ekamai. Sukhumvit Soi 11 – home of )$ ;cfeh_kc nightclub veterans like Bed Supperclub *$ @#7l[dk[ F>;J9>78KH? Th and Q Bar (p.82) – meanwhile draws 7cWh_ on gL 8ekb[lWhZ oS oi the international clubbers. Looking for Soi Prom 20 -mitr I^WZ[i :_lWdW e\ H[jhe D[ij the best of Sukhumvit’s beau monde :_l_d[ 9^[Wf 9^Whb_[Êi haunts? Then head on up to Long Su 4 kh um Table (p.84): a cocktail at this 25th KecWiW vit Rd M[ij_d 2 Tho DWd] B[d floor design bar, with its movers and ng Lo Soi 10 shakers and electric panoramas, is not 9e\\[[ 8[Wdi Xo :We BWlWdW IfW easily forgotten. 9h f[i 21 (Asoke)

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Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feetP a rest and take a boat hetc hab uri ride on Klong Rd. Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at Phe

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lthough much of Thailand’s biggest shopping complex CentralWorld was burned to the ground by arsonists at the tail-end of the recent political protests, the nearby Siam Square and Pratunam areas are still Bangkok shopaholic central. From the chaos of the shop4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. And, hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the khlong (canal) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 105), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand.

Jim Thompson’s House (see p.28). Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi. Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the sinuous concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modern-art scene central. Next up is Siam Paragon. This up-scale shopping and entertainment complex houses scores of great dining options, a world-class cinema complex and an impressive array of luxury and high street fashion bands from around the world. On a tight budget? Don’t worry. Every night (except Mondays) after 9pm, the footpaths along Siam Square on Rama I Rd transform into a mini-Chatuchak Weekend Market. Bangkok teenagers and young adults alike war over cheap but trendy T-shirts, jeans, dresses, accessories, brand new (and sometimes secondhand brand named) leather goods like bags, wallets, and shoes. Choose wisely if you opt for secondhand items.

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Sightseeing

temples THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m² royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. Though King Bhumibol now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth seeing, and there are some state

Wat Arun

The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

rooms and halls open to visitors.These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, this forms the north-eastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. After being moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings and then taken by the Lao to Vientiane, Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and placed it at the centre of his new capital. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat

Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature examples of Thai mural art documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced. WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

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The Giant Swing

WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site bangkok 101

for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the res- pected Maha Makut Buddhist University, this temple is par ticularly important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm | B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets sightseeing

is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good for-tune. วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-9pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: a Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. 28

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Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume.The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee. Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium (see below). Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Eskimo. There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones.The city’s parks (see p.32) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.103), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo (p.32) is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World (p.32) is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old. Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store. ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which bangkok 101

performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Ganesha Shrine

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit. Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B200 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-thekids discovery museum, taking in prehistoric Suvarnabhumi, the foundation of Ayutthaya and the country’s modernisation. Design company Story! Inc delivered the content and conceptual design, replacing the usual ‘don’t touch’ signs and turgid text with pop graphics and interactive gizmos galore. Among the many edutaining activities, highlights include dressing up as a 20th century nobleman, mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a vibrant touch screen and firing cannonballs at Burmese war-elephants. Tellingly, the place teems with the usually museum-shy – Thai teenagers. Afterwards, enjoy the polished teak floors, open-sided corridors and elegant Renaissance stylings of this gorgeously 30

Museum of Siam

restored former government building, designed in the 1920s by Thailand’s best-loved resident Italian architect, Mario Tamagno.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi,Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am5pm | B100 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM (map B3-4) 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 02-2337027| www.bma.go.th/bmaeng/bangrak | Sat&Sun 10am-5pm | free Bangrak is one of the most traditional districts of the city, bustling with traffic and markets. Smack in the middle of it, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms. Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here; the displays can nevertheless be surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques, traditional household utensils and items used in ceremonies. The real highlight is the owner herself who is willing to give you a highly personalised tour (if you call ahead), filled with anecdotes about a city long since vanished.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ชาวบางกอก เจริญกรุง ซ.43

Bangkokian Museum

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ban

101

Oddball Museums

RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL (map B3) 100 Ratchadamnoen Klong Road, next to Wat Ratchanadda | www.nitasrattanakosin.com | Tues-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | 02624-0044 | adults B200, kids B50 This brand new multimedia museum tackles a part of town we all admire but few understand – Rattanakosin island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Once you’re done oggling the Grand Palace and Wat Po etc, it’s a great place to expand your knowledge of this most hallowed part of the city beyond that pithy paragraph in your guidebook. Wandering its seven rooms – free of relics but rich in dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-to-fathom history, arts, communities and traditions into much clearer focus. Learn about its creation in 1782; ancient royal ceremonies; fine performing arts like lakhon nai (court drama); evolving architectural styles and much more. Also includes an observation balcony with views over the old city.

นิทรรศน์รัตนโกสินทร์ ถ.ราชดำเนินกลาง

Several museums in and around Bangkok delve into Thailand’s wacky and idiosyncratic side. Definitely the most macabre, the Si Quey Forensics Museum revels in pickled body parts and cadavers of serial killers. A close second, the Corrections Museum recreates the rough justice meted out to crims in the not so old days (you’ll think twice about that sly toke after a trip here). The Museum of Counterfeit Goods displays Thailand’s best forgeries; as long as you call ahead (and don’t use it as a means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong the next day), you’re welcome. On the outskirts, the weekends only House of Museums is a two-storey sprawl of retro curiosities. Finally, if you’re interested in Thai cinema, walk among recreated film sets, old 16mm cameras and waxwork figures of local cine heroes at the Thai Film Museum in Nakhom Pathom. Si Quey Forensics Museum (Official Name ‘Siriraj Medical Museum’) 2 Prannok road, Bangkoknoi | www.si.mahidol.ac.th | 02- 419-7000 ext 6363 | Mon-Sat 9am – 4pm | B40

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศริ ริ าช ถ.พรานนก

Corrections Museum 436 Bangkok Remand Prison, Mahachai Rd., Samranrat, Phra Nakhon | Mon-Fri 9am - 4pm | 02-226-1704 | free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ราชทัณฑ์ เรือนจำเก่า ใกล้กบั สวนรมณีนาถ

House of Museums 170/17 Moo 17 Soi Klong Po 2, Salathammasop Rd., Taweewattana | 089-666-2008 | http://houseofmuseums.siam.edu | Sat-Sun 10am – 5pm | B30 บ้านพิพธิ ภัณฑ์ ซ.คลองโพ 2 ศาลาธรรมสพน์ Thai Film Museum 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom| www.nfat.org | 02-482- 2013-15 | weekday: appointment only, weekend tours: 10am, noon, 3pm | free หอภาพยนตร์แห่งชาติ 94 หมู่ 3 ถ.พุทธมณฑลสาย 5

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bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

the great outdoors

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

Rama IX Park

CHATUCHAK and QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

Siam Ocean World (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’reThai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing. สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 bangkok 101

Stood rapt in front of the Grand Palace? Check. Got your neck clicked at Wat Po? Check. Survived the scam artists? Just about. Ok, now you’ve lost your sightseer ‘L’ plates it’s time to explore some less tourist-thronged Bangkok addresses.

what next?

1 For a cycle around the parts most tourists never reach, give Spice Roads (www.spiceroads.com) a shout. Alternatively, borrow a bike for free from one of 8 counters scattered around the Old City, courtesy of the Bangkok Metropolitan Association (www.bangkoktourist.com). 2 Volunteering is a great way to give back to this city we all get so much out of. Don’t know where to look? Idealistic expat initiative In Search of Sanuk (www.insearchofsanuk.com) signposts ways you can have fun helping people. 3 Did Jim Thompson’s? Gorgeous but groaning with tourists? Fortunately it’s not the only stilted teak house oasis in town. Suan Pakkard Palace offers a similarly beguiling set-up off the tourist trail; as does M.R. Kukrit’s House (p.28). Other teak fetishists swear by Amantee (www.amantee.com) out in the northern suburbs.

4 Just across from MBK mall, the Guggenheim-like Bangkok Art & Culture Centre lures in dandyish creative types (and the odd curious shopper) with its mixed-bag line-up of Thai contemporary and itinerant global art. Want to know where the best Thai art is at? Then pop a copy of our Bangkok Art Map into your totebag on your way out.

5 Tour company Smiling Albino (www.smilingalbino. com) offers well thought-out, culturally-attuned excursions in and around the capital. Definitely its most intriguing is its two-day rollick through authentic old neighbourhoods and markets reminiscent of Bangkok circa 1910. 6 Housed in a beautifully restored old government building only five minutes stroll from Wat Po, the Museum of Siam (www.ndmi.or.th) traces the evolution of the Thai people in a funky, hands-on fashion. Touch-screen videos and interactive gizmos galore replace the usual dusty relics and stress the country’s multiculturalism and modernisation. 7 Once the city is licked, time to see what marvels lurk just outside it. Popular daytrips close to home include Bangkrachao, a lush peninsula of undeveloped land just across from Bangkok’s Klong Toey district; and Ko Kret, a man-made island in the river famous for its snacking, temples and kilns churning out cheap pottery. See Daytrips (p.34) for more. bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing Lop Buri

Uthai Thani

day tripping

Chai Nat Nakhon Ratchasima

Ang Thong Saraburi

Suphan Buri

It’s easy getting around in Thailand, and there are plenty of worthwhile excursions within easy reach of Bangkok; some one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent. AYUTTHAYA The capital of Siam from the 14th to 18th century, Ayutthaya was one of the richest cities in the East, until it was plundered by the Burmese in 1767 and its ruins left to nature. Today a Unesco World Heritage Site, its remnants – all Khmer-esque stupas, crumbling bricks and Buddha faces entwined in tree roots – make a wonderful daytrip. The 85km journey is best done by river. The major hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City. Many combine the trip with a visit to the Bang Pa-in Summer Palace.A former royal garden retreat, this presents a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly reflecting King Rama V’s love for all things European. Once at Ayutthaya, hop on a bike and scoot round highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. . LOPBURI Lopburi’s illustrious ruins date back over 1,000 years and can done on foot. During the Dvaravati period (6th-11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo until the Khmers took over the region during Angkor’s 10th century heyday. The Thais took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. And in the 1600s, King Narai made the city the second capital and fortified it against the Dutch navy 34

Ayutthaya

Kanchanaburi

Nakhon Pathom

Koh Kred

Pathumthani

Nakhon Nayok

Sa Kaeo

Nonthaburi Bangkok

Ratchaburi

Samut Sakhon Samut Songkhram

Samut Prakan

Chachoengsao

Chon Buri

Phetchaburi

threatening Ayutthaya. The remnants of the palace he built now serve as a public museum. The city is also littered with crumbling wats (temples) blending Khmer and Thai styles. Watch your belongings: the most famous – threeprang shrine Phra Prang Sam Yot (a prang is a spire-like vault) – is home to some mischievous macaque monkeys.

monuments and buildings. Built by the same benefactor, the smaller Erawan Museum features a towering threeheaded elephant sculpture. Inside are antiques and a stucco chapel, but most Thais come for the fantastical gardens and to pray for good luck at the esteemed shrine.-

NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120m high chedi (or stupa), the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century version. Situated around 55km west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in Thailand, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history.The other big draw is the Rose Garden, a picturesque 70-acre park featuring botanical gardens and mock-Thai village cultural shows.

KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film The Bridge on the River Kwai, Kanchanaburi town is a popular weekend getaway, offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreigners are attracted by the area’s history – namely the “Thai Burma Death Railway,” built by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The lush countryside around Kanchanaburi is home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking.

SAMUT PRAKAN Just down the road – 29km away – Samut Prakan has three big draws.The Crocodile Farm offers daily croc wrestling and elephant shows. Muang Boran (the Ancient City) is an open-air museum park featuring over 100 replicas of landmark Thai temples,

KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Home to wild elephants, deer, boar, tigers and innumerable species of birdlife, Khao Yai (2½ hour’s drive from Bangkok) is one of Thailand’s most impressive national parks. Hike through the jungle to altitudes of over 1,000m. Hire a

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guide as it’s easy to get lost – the park is over 2,000km2 in size, and local maps are not to be trusted. Fancy staying the night? There are state-run bungalows in the park and luxe resorts nearby. Wine lover? Some of Thailand’s top wineries – Chateau des Brumes, Granmonte Estate, PB Valley – are also in the vicinity. NAKHON RATCHASIMA (KORAT) Both a silk and trade hub, Nakhon Ratchasima is the country’s largest province and home to Korat, its second largest city.The moated town with city gates is rewarding; and the countryside has a surfeit of Khmer ruins left over from the Angkor period, the best being in the recently restored Phi Mai Historical Park (60km north of Korat). Pak Thong Chai (30km north of Korat) is Thailand’s leading silk village. And for horse-riding and the chance to milk cows, visit Farm Chok Chai, a working farm popular with Stetsonwearing agro-tourists. KOH KRED Highly recommended, this ickle car-free island sits on a kink in the Chao Phraya River and is home to a Mon community renowned for their ancestral red-clay pottery skills. Seriously sleepy during the week, the palm-clad place goes into commercial overdrive on weekends. Bangkok cityslickers stroll its narrow footpaths, past working pottery warehouses, old Buddhist temples and homes selling hand-finished ceramics and tasty Mon kanom (snacks). By the time they’ve gone full circle, a few hours later, they’re smitten. Take a regular express boat up the Chao Phraya River to Nonthaburi and hire a long-tailed boat (B500 approx). Alternatively, on Sundays, the Chao Phraya Express ferry offers a guided tour for B300 (www. chaophrayaboat.co.th). bangkok 101

SARABURI Though often overs hadowed by neighbouring Lopburi, this central province, 108km north of Bangkok, still packs a thrill or two. Its 1½m-long Buddha footprint makes Wat Phra Putthabhat one of the most important temples in the region. And caves, like Tham Phra Pothisat, draw crowds thanks to their beautiful stalactite formations and Buddhist bas-reliefs, as does Chet Sao Noi Waterfall. The main attraction though is definitely out in the fields – from Nov-Jan bright sunflowers blanket the land, providing vibrant photo opportunities galore. PHETCHABURI Sacred Buddhist caves, neoclassical palaces, a quirky provincial market town – there’s more to Petchaburi province than the beach resort town of Cha Am. Best savoured over a long-weekend, sights include Wat Yai, a beautiful 17th century temple complex; and the stalactite and sculpture strewn Tham Khao Luang cave. To the west is also the scandalously underrated Kaeng Krachan National Park, where camp sites, butterfly and bird watching, water rafting and a stunning reservoir fringed by undulating hills await. CHACHOENGSAO An hour’s drive to the east, Chachoengsao rarely make the travel guides but is popular with locals. Smothered along the banks of the Bang Pakong River, the town boasts the temple Wat Sothon and 100-year old market Talad Baan Mai, where vendors flog traditional delicacies from within wooden King Rama V-era shophouses. Renting a boat to go see the old teak and stilted houses that line the sightseeing

sides – and the dolphins who migrate here between Nov and Feb – is also popular. RATCHABURI Ratchaburi’s Damnoen Saduak floating market is the hokiest in the land. But “The Land of the Kings” does have other qualities: unspoilt klongs (canals), hot stream Bo Khloung, the cascading Kaew Chan waterfall, and stalagmite and stalactite caves. For artsy-boho types there’s also the Suan Silp Baan Din Arts Centre, staging performances of old Thai arts and workshops. And at Wat Khanon temple, NangYai puppetry (an evocative but dying artform where puppet silhouettes are projected onto fabric screens) survives. Performances are on Saturdays. CHON BURI When it comes to this industrialised province on the eastern seaboard, we say skip Pattaya, Thailand’s Sodom-onSea, and head for Koh Si Chang, a small fishing island a mere 40-minute/B40 ferry hop across the Gulf of Thailand from Si Racha Town. King Rama V loved it there; and after a few hours exploring its hillside temples, summer palaces and pebbly beaches, so will you. On the way home, Baen San is a local, bucket-and-spade beach; and Talad Nong Mon, in Chonburi town, offers toothsome regional snacks like khao lam (sweet sticky rice in bamboo tubes). SUPHAN BURI This is where it all went down: where the legendary King Naresuan fended off Burma and rid Thailand of foreign occupation, freeing it from the Pegu Kingdom way back in 1592. At the Don Chedi, 30km from central Suphan Buri, there is a statue erected in his honour, as well as an exhibition hall and museum. Other draws include the Thai Rice Farmer’s Museum, Bueng Chawak Aquarium (64km out of town), and ancient temples dating back almost 1,000 years.

Sightseeing

NEARBY ISLANDS/BEACHES

No time to jet down to Koh Samui or Phuket? A handful of beach resorts and islands close to Bangkok are perfect for last-minute escapes.These span the gamut from lonely beaches offering the odd reggae shack and driftwood sign, to cosmopolitan beach resorts that have adopted the ‘built it and they will come’ philosophy with mixed results. ■ PATTAYA/JOMTIEN Most famous for its seedy nightlife, Pattaya’s been trying – well, sort of – to re-establish itself as a family destination. Hundreds of hotels and eateries ensure competitive prices; and while the surfeit Koh Chang of self-enclosed resorts means it’s easy for those with kids or a sleaze intolerance to avoid the girly bars, sister beach Jomtien is still a better option. ■ KOH CHANG A large jungle-clad hilly gem that’s been found by the deluxe hotel industry. Spending the night in hammocks is impossible, but fantastic beaches are still here, some hiend touristy, some budget backpacker-y. Catch a bus from the Ekkamai bus station (approx 5 hours) or fly here with Bangkok Air via Trat (approx 2 hours). ■ KOH SAMET A retreat for hip Thai youngsters who invade the island to

FLOATING MARKETS

Amphawa

Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose. n DAMNOEN SADUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 1530 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang. 36

spend days swimming in clear waters and nights sipping Thai-whisky buckets or playing the guitar on the superclean beaches. It’s worth booking ahead on weekends and public holidays, lest you want to be a source of amusement as you trudge up and down the beach desperately looking for an overpriced room. ■ HUA HIN/CHA-AM The royal summer residence town receives hordes of Thai families and package tourists. The long beach is satisfying, and is dotted with plenty of top-notch resorts like Chiva Som, the Evason, Hyatt Regency, Hilton and more. The piers filled with seafood restaurants are more of an attraction, as is the addictive night market. Nearby Cha-am is Hua Hin’s smaller, less developed sister. Coach loads of Thai townies come here on weekends to fly kites, ride ponies and generally lark around in the ocean. ■ KO SI CHANG Located a cheap 45 minute ferry journey from Si Racha Town, in Chonburi province, scenic Koh Si Chang is seldom visited by foreign tourists. More fool them – though its more of a sightseer island than a sunbather island, it’s got picturesque lookouts, King Rama V era palaces and Chinese temples to explore.Those wanting to overnight can pick from a few cheap resorts and bungalows.

GETTING THERE By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 434-5558). n TALING CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday,Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly.

n AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season. GETTING THERE By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram.The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram.

GETTING THERE By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-424-5448 or 02424-1712). Damnoen Saduak

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bangkok 101

Tha Na Market

featured daytrip

So last century

Max Crosbie-Jones

nce upon a time in Thailand, people shopped at markets filled with family-run shops and stalls, not the impersonal warehouse-sized supermarkets they flock to today. Many were located beside rivers or canals, so that vendors could bring produce to market with ease, and it was homemade delicacies and fresh-from-the-farm fruits– not factory made knock-offs and airfreighted imports – they sold. Although most such markets have been rudely expunged from inner Bangkok, a charming few still survive in the surrounding provinces. Jostling with the locals at the busiest of these time-warps is great, if sweaty, fun (such as Chachoengsao province’s Talad Klong Suan), but one of our favourites is Nakhon Pathom’s Talad Tha Na, where the low-key vibe and dearth of crowds keeps us coming back. A small street of century-old wooden shophouses set back from a quaint stretch of the Tha Chin river, it’s a popular location for period film and TV drama shoots. An hour or two can easily be spent exploring these 40 or so Crown Property Bureauowned buildings, admiring their plank facades and browsing the wares or foods sold within. Do so and you’ll leave with a better understanding of the way Thai markets once were, not to mention a belly full of the stuff traditionally sold at them.

Pin Too Chine

bangkok 101

Some shops exclusively trade in 20th century antiques and retro collectibles, such as Pin Too Chine. Located down the only side-lane, this charming store is packed to the rafters with old hard wood furniture, royal portraits, transistor radios and bamboo Tiffin lamps. Meanwhile, Baan Som-O Waan on the main strip flogs pop culture items from the 1950s through to the 1980s, packets of old soap, toothpaste and other toiletries, as well as tin toys and a variety of other random retro goodies. However the real bargains lie in wait at dusty Nimit Wittaya, a few doors down. Here, the eccentric owner refurbishes antique furniture while also doing a good line in miscellaneous bric-a-brac (think peeling shop signage, busts of Mao and bubble gum machines) and gramophones. Ask nicely and he’ll fling on an old luk krung record – just watch heads turn as the crackle of vintage vinyl drifts down the street. After building up an appetite with all that browsing, head to Dtik Pochana on the corner for delicious kaeng par look chin pla (curry with fish balls) and hot, crispy hoi jor bpoo (sliced crab fish cakes). Or instead try nearby Kia Heng, which has been serving up perfect portions of khao sightseeing

ped palo (braised duck in soy sauce with rice), and hoy joar (deep fried crab meat wrapped in tofu sheets) for over 70 years. Meanwhile, perched precariously on the river’s edge, street vendors flog everything from freshly grilled khao lam (sweet sticky rice cooked in bamboo tubes) to fresh clumps of pak kar ched (water mimosa) beneath a long tarpaulin tent. Nakhom Pathom province is also famous for its som-o fruit, and you really shouldn’t leave without taking one of these juicy, sweet, footballsized pomelos home with you. If eating and shopping aren’t enough for you, you can also take a boat tour along the river (thick with clumps of water hyacinth), and partake in another popular old-school activity, making merit (tambon) by releasing turtles or fish into the river. Getting there From Bangkok, take Highway 4 (Petkasem Road) until you reach the Tha Na turnoff. Drive on for 1.7km until you reach the Talad Tha Na intersection, then turn right and travel another 300m, where you’ll see the market on the left hand side.

ตลาดท่านา อ.นครชัยศรี

Sightseeing

national parks

asily Thailand’s most untramelled tourist assests are its national parks, of which there are no less than 116 dotted all around the country. They’re a refreshing escape from breakneck Bangkok life, not to mention the hokey hill-tribe tours and Westerner-thronged (and thonged) beaches that most tourists make a beeline for. In addition to hiking trails through the forest, most offer a host of eco-tourism activities: waterfalls you can splash around in, streams raft upon and campsites snooze under the stars in. There’s one out there for every taste, from marine national parks in the deep south offering great diving amid technicolour corals, to remote forest reserves in the far north blessed with misty mountains, severe rock-scapes and bracing ‘Winter’ temperatures. Debatably the best all-rounder (and definately the most visited and easily accessible) is Khao Yai, a tropical rainforest fringed by wineries, golf courses, cattle ranches and resorts, and only an hour and a half ’s drive northeast of the big smoke. Entry for foreigners usually costs B200, though expatriots with a copy of their work-permit with them pay the same as Thais: B40. www.thaiforestbooking.com has them all covered, even includes a foreigner-friendly bungalow or campsite booking system. Below we spotlight one each month perfect for right about now.

Phu Kradung

Climbing Phu Kradung – a mountain in northeastern Loei province – is a rite of passage for many Thais. Only open from October to May, it covers an area of roughly 350 sq km, rises 1,360m above sea level, and is best tackled during the winter months (October to December). The flattop of this sandstone mountain features over 60 sq km of natural beauty for you to discover, including surging waterfalls and dramatic cliffs. However, you first need to get from the foot of the mountain to Lang Pae, Phu Kradung’s summit, a climb so arduous that many young lovers supposedly use it to test the strength of their love. The 5.5km hike can last anywhere from three to six hours depending on your fitness. Fortunately, there are plenty of diversions along the way, including drink stands, snack stalls and almost 400 porters available for hire. For just B15 per kg, these superhuman locals will carry all of your belongings up the mountain. At the Tourist Service Center (Wang Kwang) there are various houses for rent (book in advance via the Department of National Parks; www.dnp.go.th) as well as a whole city of tents that can accommodate up to a maximum of six people each. There are also shops selling souvenirs, bicycles for rent, and rows of restaurants. However, the star attraction is sunset; best caught at either Pha Lom Sak or Pha Mak Dook cliffs. The view is arguably better from Pha Lom Sak, though keep in mind it’s 9km from camp and means you’ll have to walk back by flashlight. From November to February at Pha Mak Dook, only 2km away, you can actually catch both sunrise and sunset in the same spot. Phu Kradung also features many waterfalls along one looping trail, including the famous Penpob Mai Waterfall, named after a champion boxer who discovered it while training here. 38

sightseeing

GETTING THERE Drive from Muang Loei district on Highway 201 (Loei – Chumpare), then turn right into Highway 2019. Once you arrive at Phu Kradeung district, drive on until you reach the Phu Kradeung Nation Park Office. For buses that run from Muang Leoi district, take the Loei – Khon Kaen Bus. At the end of the bus service, change into a jitney at Baan Pha Nok Kao for Phu Kradeung National Park. The ride is approx. B20 per person. bangkok 101

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

upcountry festivals

8-16 October 6-10 October

Bathing Buddha Ceremony, Petchabun Just as Buddhism is an integral part of Thai life, the same can be said about the nation’s rivers. The Bathing Buddha Festival, a unique event held in the northern province of Phetchabun, spectacularly unites these two elements. Visitors can expect colourful processions, cultural performances, and the event highlight: an image of Buddha being bathed in the Pah Sak River by the governor of the province. More info: TAT Call Centre, 1672; www.tourismthailand.org

19-23 October

Phuket Vegetarian Festival, Phuket

16-24 October

Lai Reua Fai Festival, Nakhon Phanom

Celebrated over nine days by the island’s Thai-Chinese community, this is not what you’d expect from such a peaceful sounding festival. Though participants do observe a strictly vegetarian diet, it’s the daily street processions which make front pages the world over. Accompanied by deafening fire crackers, devotees perform sacred yet gruesome rituals, such as walking barefoot on hot coals, piercing their cheeks with skewers or ascending ladders with knives as rungs.More info: TAT Phuket, 076-212-213; www.tourismthailand.org

This north-eastern religious festival will see lines of regal and resplendent barges cruising down the Mekong River in Nakhon Phanom province, spewing fireworks and eliciting gasps from crowds assembled along its banks as they go. The festival, which includes religious rites, pays respects to Lord Buddha and takes each place each evening just before sunset. More info: TAT Nakhon Phanom, 04-251-3490; www.tourismthailand.org

20-22 October

Rap Bua Ceremony, Samut Prakan To celebrate the end of Buddhist Lent, the folks in Samut Prakan make good use of the river. Instead of the locals journeying to a temple to worship a Buddha image, they have one come to them. A Buddha image is placed on a boat and floated down the Samrong River, where locals toss a lotus (rap bua means ‘receiving lotuses’) onto the passing vessel to pay homage. This reflects the area’s legend about an image of Buddha that was once seen floating down the river. More info: TAT Bangkok, 02-250-5500; www.tourismthailand.org

Wax Castle Festival and Long Boat Races, Sakhon Nakorn

20-26 October

One of the most famous festivals in Thailand takes place in north-eastern Sakhon Nakorn province, where a grand procession of castles made out of wax parade through town to celebrate the end of, you guessed it, Buddhist Lent. Traditional Issan performances and folk dances also feature. It is also accompanied by the very popular Long Boat Races with a trophy from HRH Princess Sirindhorn up for grabs. ITAL: More info: TAT Sakhon Nakorn, 042-513-490; www.tourismthailand.org

Just after the end of Awk Pansaa, the Buddhist Rains Retreat holiday, an eerie occurrence in Phon Pisai district up in Nong Khai attracts a captive audience of thousands. Dozens of small glowing reddish fireballs rise out of the Mekong River at night, and shoot up into the sky before disappearing. Locals believe the fireballs are produced by a Naga snake living in the Mekong, a local scientist claimed they are caused by methane gas bubbling up from pools along the river, and a Thai TV program went as far as to say that they are actually tracer fire coming from Lao soldiers on the other side. Nobody knows for certain, but who cares? The point is to come and join the party. Mut Mee Guesthouse (042-460717, www.mutmee.com) in Nong Khai arranges boat trips and party trips out to the fireball area for an excellent price and also hooks you up with other travelers. More info: TAT Nong Khai, 042-421-326; www.tourismthailand.org

bangkok 101

Naga Fireballs, Nong Khai

sightseeing

Sightseeing

upcountry escape Howard Richardson

Sukhothai

he former Thai capital of Sukhothai, situated in the lower north of the country, is a sprawl of ruined temples that evoke an ancient era referred to as Thailand’s Golden Age. While these UNESCO-protected ruins are tourist draws year-round, October is a good time to visit, as the weather is beginning to cool, and November even better, because the beautiful Loy Krathong Festival (28 November), although celebrated countrywide, has its spiritual heart there. King Intradit established the Kingdom of Sukhothai in 1238, when he defeated the ruling Khmer armies in the area. He was a warlord of one of the ethnic Tai tribes that 40

had migrated from China centuries earlier. But it was under his son, King Ramkhamhaeng, that Sukhothai truly flourished. Ramkhamhaeng expanded the kingdom’s influence northwards to Luang Prabang and Vientiane (now in Laos), and to Nakhon Si Thammarat in the far south. The city itself became a great seat of learning and religious devotion. Ramkhamhaeng adapted the Khmer writing system into the first written Thai language and embraced Theravada Buddhism as the nation’s official religion. Art also flourished, and the Sukhothai Walking Buddha is now a world famous aesthetic in Buddhist imagery. But these were turbulent sightseeing

times: although the kingdom’s influence is still felt to this day, its dramatic ascendancy lasted only slightly over a century. The city, eventually abandoned, lay overgrown with jungle until King Rama IV (18511868) – who was a monk before his reign – led a party to its rediscovery in 1833. The ruins now lie in a historical park, laid out in five zones covering 100 sites. Entrance to each zone is B100 or B350 for all five. For a small extra charge you can drive your car around, hire bicycles or take an official bus tour. It’s useful to drop into the Ramkhamhaeng Museum (entry B150), located beside the entrance to the park, where the displays give bangkok 101

Ananda Museum & Gallery Hotel

STAY n Tharaburi Resort 11/3 Srisomboon Road, Sukhothai, 055697-132, www.tharaburiresort.com n Ananda Museum & Gallery Hotel 10 Moo 4 Banlum, Sukhothai, 055622-428, www.ananda-hotel.com n Scenic Riverside Resort 325/16 Tesa 2 Road, Kamphaeng Phet, 055-722-009, www. scenicriversideresort.com

bangkok 101

the Sangkhaloke Museum, with wellannotated displays of ceramic arts, weapons, jewellery, temple bells and gongs. Sukhothai has some of the most impressive ruins in Thailand, but the downside is the busy stream of tour buses that lessen the possibilities of empathising with the historic atmosphere. If this bothers you, Kamphaeng Phet, 70km away, provides a great alternative. The temples here are found in two areas, inside and outside the old city walls. The highlights are the group of reclining and sitting Buddhas at Wat Phra Kaew and the standing Buddha at Wat Phra Iriyabot, but most pleasing is the seclusion. Last time we went we were literally the only visitors, strolling amid tranquil ruins as the sun filtered through the surrounding woods. If you do make it here, stay at the delightful Scenic sightseeing

Riverside Resort, eight Mexicaninspired cottages running down to the riverbank amid a garden of cats and horses.

Photograph by Katia Grau

context to the ruins. Most people then prioritise the central zone, where the most impressive site is Wat Mahathat, Sukhothaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most important temple. It illustrates the periodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eclectic cultural influences with chedis of various styles, including Hariphunchai, Lanna and Sri Lankan. The main Buddha statue here is one of the iconic images of Thailand. Nearby is Wat Si Sawai, notable for three Hindu prangs. It later became a Buddhist shrine featuring both Hindu and Buddhist deities. Sukhothai now consists of the old city, where the ruins are, and the new city, a fairly typical, small provincial market town that lies 14 kilometres away. A good place to stay is Tharaburi Resort, two kilometres from the ruins, which has smart ensuite rooms from B3,100. In the new city, the Ananda Museum & Gallery Hotel has the added attraction of

GETTING THERE Flights from Bangkok to Sukhothai are available daily, courtesy of Bangkok Airways (www. bangkokair.com). Those wanting to see the surrounding scenery can take a bus from Northern Bus Terminal (02-537-8055-6) for a much longer trip.

Sightseeing

over the border Simon Ostheimer

Malacca Malaysia’s most historical state tells the nation’s story – through food

sightseeing

Photograph by Auswandern Malaysia, Dave_B, Williamnyk and Yeowatzup

ike any Malaysian journey, this story begins with food. The third smallest state in our neighbour to the south (the others, for the record, are Perlis and Penang), Malacca, or Melaka, was founded by a Hindu prince from Sumatra named Parameswara, who was attracted by the all-weather port. He named the new settlement after a leafy tree under which he took shelter – the Malacca tree, which bears an edible fruit of the same name. Over the years, the town grew prosperous off passing trade, attracting the interest of the Siamese (who invaded not once, but twice, in 1446 and 1456), as well as the legendary fleet of Chinese explorer Zheng He, who stopped through on his way to India. By the time the Portuguese came to conquer the city in 1511, Malacca was already the main regional trading power. Portugal then ruled for 130 years, until their great colonial rivals the Dutch arrived in 1641 to overthrow them – consolidating their dominance of Southeast Asia. The final two stages of Malacca came about relatively quickly: first, the British occupied it in 1824 (swapping it with the Dutch for an unwanted settlement on Sumatra), then, finally, after a series of progressions towards Malayan independence from the United Kingdom, in 1963 Malacca became a province of Malaysia. In 2008 it was listed, alongside Penang, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site – hardly surprising if you consider all that history. Throughout all the changes in occupying powers, Malacca absorbed new cultures and cuisine, creating the local Perenakan (Chinese-Malay), Chitty (IndianMalay) and Portuguese communities (the British, like most places they went, discouraged inter-ethnic marriage). This resulted in a fantastic blend of ingredients and dishes, which, combined with the spice trade that made Malacca so coveted in the first place, means the little state that could has one of the most varied, interesting, and delicious menus in all Malaysia. After checking into your hotel (try the charming Peranakan-style Hotel Puri, or more the newer, more upmarket Jonkers Boutique Hotel), begin your culinary tour at Donald and Lily’s, a Peranakan café just a short walk from the Studhuys, the red-hued former Dutch government headquarters that is now one of Malacca’s most memorable landmarks. There is no menu, so instead choose between the two dishes of the day, usually a variation of laksa (spicy noodle soup) or chicken and rice, washed down with a glass of barley water. For dessert, take a stroll round the corner onto Jonkers Street and the follow the crowds heading a short way east to Jonker 88, which serves probably the best cendol in Malacca.

bangkok 101

Cendol (along with its equally odd cousins eis kacang and ABC) is a uniquely Malaysian dessert consisting of ice shavings accompanied by a variety of sweet toppings and sauces. We recommend you order the Baba cendol (ice topped with thick gooey palm sugar, or gula Melaka, and coconut milk) – a Peranakan classic and by far the most traditional. Once you’ve scooped up the last drop, while away the hot afternoon by popping into one of the city’s many historical museums (don’t miss the Baba House, Stadhuys, Naval Museum and 8 Hereen Street, where, as well giving an excellent insight into the city’s architectural wonders, the curator Colin provides living proof of Malacca’s rich past). Having built up an appetite, head back to Jonkers Street for the weekend evening night market (Friday and Saturday only), where you can pick up locallyproduced arts and craft, but, more importantly, indulge to your heart – and stomach’s – delight on an amazing array of street food, including satay, mee goring, char kuey teow and Malacca’s favourite souvenir – a box of pineapple pastries. If you’re in town on a week night, instead head to Pak Putra for authentic halal food from the subcontinent, with the chicken tandoori a must. Before checking out the next morning, ask the hotel to direct you to your nearest mamak (Indian Muslim) restaurant, and order up a double serving of roti chennai and a piping hot mug of teh tarik. The first is a deliciously fluffy bread served with a mix of curry sauces and eaten by hand, while the second – sweet milk tea poured from cup to cup to give it a pleasant frothy head – is practically Malaysia’s national drink. Just as the Malaccan story began, this journey ends with a healthy helping of wonderful Malaysian food.

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Getting There Thai AirAsia flies from Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur for B1,690 return. Numerous bus services run from KL to Malacca for approx. RM8 (B80) one way, travel time 1.5 hours. Discover n 8 Hereen Street 8 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock | +606281-1507 | www.badanwarisan.org. my/conservation/8heeren.php n Baba House 125-127 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock | +60-6281-1216 n Stadhuys & Naval Museum www.virtualmuseummelaka.com Stay n Hotel Puri 118 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock | +606282-5588 | www.hotelpuri.com n Jonkers Boutique Hotel 82 -86A & B, Jalan Tokong | +606282-5151 | http://jonkerboutiquehotel.com Eat & Drink n Donald & Lily’s off Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, no tel. n Jonker 88 88 Jalan Hang Jebat | +60-19-3975665 | www.jonker88.com n Pak Putra Tandoori & Naan Restaurant Jalan Jalan Laksmana 4 | no tel.

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional absorption of all things American and

Ardel Gallery

European, many of Thailand’s freshfaced generation of artists are infatuated with the street-style, urban iconography of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, Korea and increasingly China. An indicator of the growing profile of Thai art could be in the proliferation of new commercial galleries that have opened in the last couple of years, with Bangkok gaining over a dozen new venues in different areas across the city. These include artist -run spaces such as printmaker and sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s hotbed of young conceptualists at Gallery VER. While Thailand’s ongoing political debacle has complicated ar tistic planning, the decade-plus wait for the new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opposite MBK shopping mall, is over. For news of its exhibitions, performances and the like log on to www.bacc.or.th GALLERIES The majority of contemporary art on view in Bangkok is produced by domestic practitioners, several of whom are now receiving significant international exposure, though there is ar ts

an increasing number of regional Asian artists displaying their works, at prices often cheaper than in countries like Singapore, China and Vietnam. Whether hoping to peruse some emerging local protagonist, or purchase something a bit more commercial or traditional, one thing’s for certain – prices for art in Bangkok are more realistic and reasonable than overinflated, fashionable ar t centres in America, Europe and increasingly China. You’ll soon realise that the city doesn’t have a concentrated artistic enclave; rather, there are small pockets of galleries, auction houses and antiques shops randomly dispersed throughout the city. Commercial galleries are spread across town and a little route planning is advised before embarking on a day of gallery musing. On the following page is a selection of noteworthy galleries about town. Steven Pettifor is the editor of the Bangkok Art Map (BAM!), and author of Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is available as a consultant to art buyers; stevenpettifor@hotmail.com bangkok 101

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM! is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab a copy and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

art exhibitions

Camouflage Thavibu Suite 308, Silom Galleria F3, 919/1 Silom Rd, Soi 19 | 02-266-5454 | Mon-Sat 11am-7pm (closed Sun) | www.thavibu.com | BTS Surasak Thai artist Jirapat Tatsanasomboon is well known for applying a pop-art style to his paintings, which often feature interactions between the East-West and moderntraditional. He appropriates images from well-known European masterpieces by the likes of Henri Matisse, Edvard Munch and Keith Haring, and inserts readily identifiable Thai iconography as a commentary on local society, using the celebrated master paintings as ‘camouflage’. Until Oct 10

Differ-ence Tang B-28, B/F, Silom Galleria 919/1 Soi 19 | 02630-1114 | Mon-Sat 11am–7pm (closed Sun & public holidays) | www.tangcontemporary.com | BTS Surasak Bringing together the interesting pairing of Maitree Siriboon and Preeyachanok Ketsuwan, this exhibition examines how people shape perceptions of one another and how this filters into and draws from cultural identifiers. Maitree uses albino buffaloes as a metaphor for racial prejudices, while Preeyachanok explores the role of a female within the family unit. Until Oct 15

Face to Face Art Centre Chulalongkorn University Centre of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd | 02-218-2965 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm (closed Sun & public holidays) | www.car. chula.ac.th/art | BTS Siam Featuring the works of 14 Australian artists, Face to Face provides an engaging perspective on how digital technology is reshaping our understanding and experience of contemporary identity. The exhibition delivers a diversity of digital and video portraiture, animated talking heads, idealised avatars, as well as your own image captured and displayed before your eyes. The artworks hold up a mirror to contemporary culture and society, showing us a revealing portrait of ourselves in the 21st century. Until Oct 17

Manorah and Best Friends of the Snake 100 Tonson Gallery 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd | 02-684-1527 | Thu-Sun 11am-7pm (closed Mon-Wed) | www.100tonsongallery.com | BTS Chitlom After heavyweight inter national Thai artist Rirkrit Tiravanija finished his visual dialogue on the fallout from Thailand’s recent political protests, another internationally renowned artist, Sakarin Krue-on, offers his multimedia interpretations of the nation’s social malaise. Back in 2004, Sakarin displayed the atmospheric canine installation Cloud Nine at Tonson, while his latest presentation employs video, photography, paintings and objects. Until Oct 24

Return Ticket:Thailand – Germany Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm (closed Mon) | www.bacc.or.th | BTS National Stadium Marking the 50th anniversary of the Goethe-Institut in Thailand, this exhibition brings together 30 Thai artists that have spent time in Germany. Many furthered their artistic studies there, while other passed through briefly as exhibiting artists. How their time in Germany affected their creativity is the focus of the 100 artworks on display. Until Nov 7 bangkok 101

ar ts

o an onlooker, collecting records probably seems like the strangest kind of anachronism. Digging out old music in dusty shops on a largely sidelined format, is probably not perceived by most as a constructive use of time. On a personal level, the warm analog sheen that comes from the vinyl discs has certainly always sounded a lot more natural to my ears. But it’s not really about the mode of delivery. It’s largely about the fact, that, despite the wide availability of most music either on CD or in a downloadable form, there are still a large swathe of records that have never been reissued, and deserve to be heard. For the collector and DJ, there is a level of one-upmanship. Possessing a disc that none of your peers own, that you can play or write about, gives you an exclusive edge. When I moved to Thailand I knew that there would be records to find. In every country, there always is. I’ve hunted through antique shops in Myanmar and Vietnam, personal collections in Ethiopia, as well as gaining access to the EMI archive in Pakistan. But Thailand contains something unique and intriguing. It’s not just that the records are there. The bare bones of the old music industry with its original record stores exists alongside it. The infrastructure somehow continues, presided over by a coterie of elderly Thai Chinese men, seemingly undaunted by what appears to be a generally small and infrequent customer base. Many set up these shops in the 1950s, importing the latest sounds from the US, as well as acting as distributors for the new labels that sprang up in Bangkok in the middle of the 20th Century. Some of them additionally got into recording and releasing music themselves.

Paradise Digging up Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s musical past Words by Chris Menist Photography by David Procter

Listen to the lyrics of ‘Sumneang Yu Nai’ by Luk Thung artist Waipod Phetsoupun. In it he describes an afternoon’s stroll along ‘Saphan Lek’ in China Town, popping into this record shop and that, trying to find a female singer. It’s a route you could still take today, with at least 50% of the shops still existing on their original premises, run by their original owners. In its heyday the street would literally buzz to the new sounds being pumped out of each shop, as different loyal customers would flock to their outlet of choice for their weekly musical fix. I first ventured down there in January 2008, not along after moving to Bangkok with my family. Strolling into these shops with my portable turntable initially raised eyebrows, particularly when the owners noticed I was mostly listening to Thai Luk Thung and Molam records. More often than not, the process of collecting gives you an alternative view of the place you’re visiting, as well as introducing you to people you would not normally come across. One owner now greets me with a glass of iced tea when I come for a morning’s digging. It’s a good feeling.

Paradise

In second hand markets groups of people have peered as I crouched next to a box of records, listening to each one in turn. The Thai alphabet, or even the cover art, offered up little information about what was contained on each disc. Going through each one patiently was the only way to properly ascertain whether it was a record that was worth purchasing or leaving. One such rummage through Klong Tom market on a Saturday night lead to a meeting with my friend and DJ partner, Maft Sai. Discovering a shared interest not only in the vintage sounds of Siam, but also reggae, African music and jazz ushered in the first â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Paradise Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; party, first held in 2009 at the now sadly defunct Rain Dogs in Sathorn.

Paradise

With ‘Paradise Bangkok’ we’ve always aimed for a mixed crowd, and it’s great to see a new generation of Thai music fans, (as well as people from the UK, Japan and America) dancing to and enjoying sounds they might have otherwise dismissed as ‘old’ or as something their older relatives might enjoy. Two compilations are now also in the offing for the UK labels Finders Keepers and Soundway. The next party is on October 9 at Café Democ. But with each new find, with every vinyl curio you uncover, you have to acknowledge that you are also partly responsible for the decay of this rare situation. Once the records are all sold, none will be there to replace them, as most of these discs have been on the shelves since the day they were delivered by the distribution lorry. Once the owners pass the property over to their children or other family members, each remnant of this musical golden age will start to disappear, the streets eventually transforming until there may be no evidence it ever existed. http://www.zudrangmarecords.com http://www.finderskeepersrecords.com http://www.soundwayrecords.com

Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Siam Niramit

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com.

Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai|BTS Victory Monument | 02-677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular new 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, bear witness to hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are world-class.

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-224-1342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.31), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.28), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.83).

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

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bangkok 101

TCDC (Thailand

Creative & Design Centre)

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres.These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on.

cultural centres

Alliance Française (map C4)

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers. Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions. These are particularly WHERE 6F,The Emporium good at opening your Shopping Complex, mind and eyes to Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS curious international Phrom Phong, 02-664-8448, design concepts; be it www.tcdc.co.th OPEN Vivienne Westwood’s 10:30am-9pm closed Mon fearlessly nonconformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture. Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24

29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3)

254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4)

18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-2870942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

Japan Foundation (map D3)

Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ The Belgian Club of Thailand (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com

BACC (map C3) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th The eleven-storey Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) structure is engulfed by neighbouring shopping malls and looks out towards the city’s elevated skytrain.The Guggenheim meets a mall, the parabolic white concrete design has an interior defined by a circular atrium accentuating smooth curves around which exhibitions are hung. Potentially an important player in Thailand’s contemporary cultural development, the centre plans to nurture a scope of creative fields including theatre, film and design, with the upper levels boasting 3,000sqm for hosting art. Combine a trip here with a shopping assault at the nearby malls, which it’s linked to via a raised concrete walkway.

หอศิลปวัฒนธรรมแห่งกรุงเทพมหานคร แยกปทุมวัน

bangkok 101

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Arts

APEX Lido and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02-251-2861, โรงภาพยนต์ลโิ ด และสกาลา

cinema

สยามสแควร์ ถ. พระราม 1

angkok boasts world-class, stateof-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.55), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180. The best place to check screening times is on the daily-updated www.movieseer.com.

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

Please

Thai Cinema

stand while the king's anthem is played in respect to Thailand’s beloved monarch.

Noy Thrupkaew

PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-9333 เอ็มโพเรียม สุขม ุ วิท 24 Major Cineplex Sukhumvit 1221/39 sukhumvit Rd., North Klongtan | BTS Ekkamai | 02-381-4855 เมเจอร์สข ุ มุ วิท

ใกล้สถานีรถไฟฟ้าบีทเี อสเอกมัย

Major Cineplex Ratchayothin 1839 Phaholyothin Rd. | BTS Mochit, MRT Paholyothin, then taxi | 02-5113311 เมเจอร์รช ั โยธิน ถ.พหลโยธิน

cinema dine

If you don’t fancy watching a movie at the local Cineplex, or from your living room couch, there’s another option that falls snugly between the two. Mondays are Cinema Dine night at Bed Supperclub (p.84), where staff serve threecourse meals by the creative Executive Chef Dan M. Ivarie (B888; drinks not included), plus gourmet popcorn and Thai cocktails for B100, while you watch a classic or cult flick. All this while reclining on fluffy white divan beds to eat: the perfect position for watching a movie. This month’s ‘Automobiles with Attitude’ theme presents the very best in car capers. On October 4 things get into gear with Herbie Fully Loaded, where Lindsay Lohan is taken for a ride by the VW bug with a mind of its own. A week later on October 11, a younger but no less angry Mel Gibson reprises his role as Mad Max in The Road Warrior. On October 18, the night is devoted to one of George Lucas’ best ever creations. No, not Jar Jar Binks, but American Graffiti, the 1962-set tale about four teenagers on their last summer night before college, starring a youthful Ron Howard and Harrison Ford. Finally, on October 25 it’s time to go Back to the Future with Marty McFly and Doc Brown in their DeLorean DMC-12. Movies start at 9.30pm. Call 02-651-3537 or visit www.bedsupperclub.com for reservations. 56

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reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used. Dead Drunk Paul Garrigan | Maverick House | pp256 | B450 The West has The Priory; Thailand has Wat Thamkrabok – a temple in Saraburi province where a regimented diet of Buddhism and vomit-inducing herbal potions are used to combat addiction. It’s a last chance saloon for Thais craving sobriety (as well as foreigners and even drug-loving rock star Pete Doherty, who numbers among the few Wat Thamkrabok failures), a fascinating oddity that dishes out its unique brand of rehab for free. This account by a former patient recounts the daily grind as he, an alcoholic, and other addicts make a sacred vow to leave their poison behind and battle the spiritual and physical pains of acute withdrawal (there’s little medical assistance and certainly no Valium-assisted recovery here). But first there’s the story of how he ended up there, a sorry tale that begins with a childhood spent drinking the dregs in Irish pubs, and ends with near meltdown in rural Thailand. It’s written in a simple, direct style and, like the bottle, pretty hard to put down.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English s u b t i t l e s a n d DV D r e g i o n compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

Mysterious Bangkok Dr Robert Frei | Asia Books | 98pp | B795 Dr Robert Frei comes from a long line of farang to arrive in Bangkok and then profess immediate love for the city and its people, followed swiftly by a series of life-changing revelations. However, he also belongs to the small group who then insist on publishing their own rambling guide to life in Krung Thep, and the even smaller minority who proceed to translate it into Thai so that the locals, too, can benefit from their remarkable insight. If there is one redeeming quality about Dr Frei’s book, it is that he at least seems genuine about his feelings. As he explores the city’s temples and palaces, museums and universities, and, ahem, go-go bars and strip clubs, his role throughout is as an impassioned observer of Bangkok life.Take for instance this sentence about an expat male and Thai bar girl on Patpong: ‘He momentarily falls in “love” with her and while enjoying his beer… believes that she feels equally enthusiastic about him... She, on the other hand, finds everything very boring’. Dr Frei is too enamoured to see that he has made the same mistake about Bangkok.

Fascinating Thailand Asia Books | 160pp | B695 ‘Fascinating’ has always seemed a wishy-washy adjective. Describing something as fascinating is an easy, non-committal way to pass comment, and frequently comes laced with a hint of blasé, if not outright sarcasm. It was with this in mind that we approached Fascinating Thailand, released in this country by Asia Books. When it comes to coffee table publications,Thailand has more than its fair share – packed with the usual images of temples, beaches, islands and elephants.They are frequently picked up at the airport, a suitably glossy souvenir for tourists on their way home. This one, then, at deserves some credit for attempting to dig a little deeper than the norm, with informative introductions to the nation’s sights and sounds, and sections on opium, the ‘third gender’, sea nomads and Islam. However, it is let down by poor organisation, outof-date photography and the absence of anything that distinguishes it from myriad other books of its type. In sum, it’s fascinating.

INSEE TONG Insee Tong | Mit Chaibancha | 1970 | DVD B250 Part of an old Thai action-movie franchise that is being rebooted with a new film this month, Insee Tong is a cult hit not only for its unbelievably campy anti-Communist slant, but for its notoriety as star Mit Chaibancha’s last feature – the actor and director died making the film. Storyline presents the usual rigamarole – a masked vigilante hero who isn’t above playing his flashlight beam all over a sleeping damsel’s legs, mistaken-identity conundrums, the obligatory dude-in-drag fight scene, complete with black-panty flashing. Real gems include the Uncle Ho-esque brainwasher/soulsplitter Commie villain and the howlingly over-the-top voice dubbing. Insee Tong is a bona fide cultural artifact – check out the towering beehive hairdos and the wokka-wokka soundtrack – and also a fascinating cinematic glimpse into the political and sociological anxieties of the time.

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Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby. The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community.

Deva

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer.You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms! Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.75). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anythingonce daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

$ under B400 $$ B400 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000 a service charge (typically

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants. 58

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Le Quartier Français Dinner, The Sukhothai Bangkok

Rossini’s New Menu, Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit Join Chef Federico Allegri at Rossini’s, the awardwinning Italian restaurant, as he presents a new menu inspired by the Piedmont region in Italy, including the recommended grilled scallop with green apple and zucchini. Lunch: 12pm2:30pm. Dinner: 6:30pm10:30pm. 02-649-8364

Premium Cuts, Sofitel Hotel Silom Experience high quality imported cold cuts including San Daniele and Serrano ham, along with a variety of condiment such as olives, marinated and pickled vegetables, all prepared in front of you at V9 Wine Bar & Restaurant. Price starts at B175++ per plate. 02-238-1991 ext 1351.

Margot Janse, Executive Chef at Le Quartier Français hotel in South Africa, a Relais and Châteaux awardwinner, will be at La Scala, The Sukhothai Bangkok from October 14 to 16. Her African-inspired cuisine is so good that Le Quartier Francais came 31st in the World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards 2010. B3,500pp, B4,300pp with wine pairing. 02-344-8888.

8th Anniversary 888 Menu, Bed Supperclub

Oktoberfest, Pathumwan Princess

To celebrate its 8th birthday, the dining and clubbing spaceship on stilts is offering its 3 course menu by Chef Dan M. Ivarie for B888 instead of the usual B1,450. Offer excludes beverages, runs from Sundays through to Thursday only, and ends October 30. 02-651-3537

Experience the bites (if not the bonhomie) of Munich’s exuberant beer festival with a selection of Oktoberfest classics at CiTi BiSTRo. All this month there’ll be würstel (sausage) and sauerkraut (sour cabbage), among other hearty Bavarian dishes, as well as imported German beer to wash it all down with. 02-216-3700

bangkok 101

Aussie Seafood, The Australian The Sukhumvit Soi 11 Aussie pub’s Chef Chatree presents seafood shored from right up in the warm waters of northern Queensland all the way down to the chilly Tasman Sea. Think grilled saltwater Barranmundi fillet on a sweet potato mash, Spring Bay mussels and shrimps on the barbie. Throughout Oct. 02-651-080

food & drinks

meal deals

10.10.10, Novotel Bangkok On October 10 enjoy the power of ten as Siam Square’s Novotel Bangkok serves up a one-off 10 hour buffet from 11am to 9pm, including a huge variety of popular Thai and international dishes, as well as dim sum delights. Two eat for the price of one. B1,010++. 02-209-8888

Bistro M 1st Anniversary, Marriott Executive Apartments To mark its 1st birthday, guests dining at Sukhumvit Soi 24’s orange-toned Bistro M each Thursday (or on the big day, Oct 23) can enjoy a set menu for 4, 5 or 6 people. Prices for four start at B1,500 baht for a six item menu. Not cheap enough for you? All wear orange and you’ll get 50% off. 02-302-5265 59

Food&Drinks

thai cuisine

Did you know?

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desser ts social affair in or savoury mousses Thailand. are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared. 60

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

Mu Sa-Te (Pork/Chicken Skewers)

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom kha gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam nua.......spicy beef salad Gai yang..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng phet pet yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng khiao wan gai.....green curry chicken Phad kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sacred basil Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam ma prao.......................coconut juice Nam krajeab .............rosella flower juice Nam matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam tao hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha yen............................Thai iced tea with condensed milk bangkok 101

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thai sweets Kanom Thai

‘Polamai’: Thai Fruits

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

Sapodilla

Known as lamoot in Thai, this egg-shaped fruit looks much like a small mango and has a skin texture similar to that of a Kiwi. One of the most popular choices used by Thai fruit carvers, the lamout is grown in numerous provinces all over Thailand such as Nakhon Si Thammarat, Chonburi, and Sukhothai, and are in season around September and October. The fruit is eaten only when ripe and features a crisp, caramel-coloured flesh that is honey-flavoured, though slightly gritty, much like a very sweet pear. Be careful with the seeds however, as they are large and have a hook at one end that can make for a serious choking hazard.The sapodilla is believed to have many health benefits and has been used for numerous medicinal purposes.The seeds are believed to expel bladder and kidney stones, while its leaves have been used to alleviate coughs and colds.

The word Kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a Kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them. Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This!

Kanom Mo Keang (Thai Custard Pudding) It’s the custard pudding made in Thai style consisted of flour, egg and coconut milk baked on stewpan until the top turns to brown and then fried onions are garnished on top to create a yummy smell. Flavors are adjusted for options such as taro, lotus seed, green bean and seasonal fruits by Petchaburian whose Kanom Mo Keang is their famous souvenir. Try also: Kanom Krok – Mini coconut cream hotcakes Kanom Bueng – Crispy crepes with coconut whip filling Thong yip/Thong yod/Foi Thong – Golden Egg Pinches (Yip)/Drops (Yod)/ Shreds (Foi)

Try also: Coconut (Ma-Praow), Guava (Farang), Banana (Kluay), Papaya (Malakor), Mangosteen (Mong-Koot), Durian (Tu-Rian), Mango (Ma Muang), Rambutan (Ngoh), Lychee (Lyn-Chee) bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

treet food is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. So much so that if you took away the city’s rot khen (mobile vendor carts) it would begin to taste rather bland. Some open for lunch only; others open all night. Though common to every street, knowing which carts sell what, when and where is a skill many Bangkokians pride themselves on. Short on time? Then make for one of the following hotspots, where clusters of vendors sell good feeds for pocket-change.

ealikte

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

Lotus Balls in Coconut Milk

On the Thonburi side of the river, just across from the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers and next door to the Millenium Hilton Bangkok hotel, lies a busy little shopping and eating alley that even many locals don’t know exists. Once inside it, a narrow path splits into two diverging lanes. Take the one on your right with a 7-Eleven store, head to the end and you find a small Thai dessert store serving bau loy. Meaning floating lotus, the name refers to the little balls, made from sticky rice flour, that bob like aquatic flowers on the surface of the liquid they’re served in.Their vibrant colours come from various fruit and vegetable extracts; for example, yellow from pumpkin, pink from beetroot, and blue and violet from butterfly pea flowers. To be honest, though, what I love most about bau loy is not the balls but the nam kati, or coconut milk, they’re cooked in. For me, a well-balanced bau loy harmoniously blends nam kati creaminess with palm sugar sweetness. An egg, softly cracked into the boiling hot coconut milk mixture, adds some poached eggy goodness to proceedings. Indeed, the little balls provide more in the way of texture than taste. Often with bau loy, I find the coconut milk either too watery or overpoweringly sweet. Likewise, the little balls are usually too big or too sticky. Find a wellmade one, though, and everything melts in your mouth. It may just be flour, sugar, coconut milk and egg, but I consider this dessert an art form. At this stall, they’ve created a masterpiece. Bau Loy Khai Khem is located at the back of the Khlong Sarn Plaza by Klong San pier. It opens everyday from late morning unil late afternoon or until they run out. 62

food & drinks

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to revellers. Sample the delicate, hand-made egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango. Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am. Corner of Silom/Convent Road The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues. Pratunam Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce. Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark.There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door. Soi Rambutri (near Khao San Road) Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the stall in front of Swenson’s. Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls. bangkok 101

Baan Glom Gig

THAI Baan Glom Gig (map C3) Soi Ruam Rudi 1 | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-254-4254 | daily 11:30am – 2pm, Sun – Thu 6pm – 10pm, Fri-Sat 6pm 11pm | $$ Mild Thai food in a mild-mannered setting: that’s Baan Glom Gig in a nutshell. Tucked down a soi just off residential Soi Ruam Rudi, its charming Thai house with outdoor terrace is a formal yet not stuffy blend of gleaming parquet floors and plain white walls lined with family portraits and boat oars. Unfortunately, the food is equally polite, often tasting as if stripped of its spice and grit – and thus its soul. The tom yum with black squid ink (B200) for instance looks intriguing, but lacks any lemongrass, chilli and galangal punch and thus a reason for being. And the som tom potlamai (B150) is more plate of fresh fruit than chili-bomb papaya salad. Not that everything leaves you feeling cheated: the deep fried chicken wings are grilled to perfection, just like the menu promises (but arrive minus spicy dip), and southern dish sataw pad goong (B200) is an enjoyable mix of textures and flavours, even if it too lacks a kick. This family run place is owned by a famous TV host, Sumo Gig, and family, and judging from the dishes we tried, we can’t help but think this – and the amiable setting perfect for intimate head-to-heads – is the main reason it attracts the well-to-do.

บ้านกลมกิ๊ก ซ.ร่วมฤดี1

bangkok 101

restaurants

Boran (map D3) Unit 205-206, 2/F Exchange Tower, 388 Sukhumvit Road | BTS Asok | 0880224022 | 7:30am-8:30pm (Mon-Fri), 10:30am-8:30pm (Sat-Sun) | $ For a cheap, authentic meal on Sukhumvit, pop into this air-con oasis of retro Thai food. Located in a sterile office mall near the manic Asok intersection, its enticing mock-shophouse interior features wood plank walls, vintage movie posters and a tiny TV screening old Mitr Chaibancha movies. Paying homage to rustic old markets like Amphawa, of which grainy photos plaster one wall, this nostalgic getup is clearly designed to make passing Thais feel all warm and fuzzy. Ditto the succinct menu featuring the sorts of simple rice, noodle and dimsim dishes you typically find served at them, as well as classic Thai tipples like cafee boran (old-style coffee) and rocket sodas. This old-school revivalism is a neat, if derivative concept (Boran clearly drew inspiration from Hua Hin’s retrothemed Plearn Wan market) in itself, but there’s more to it than that – much of the menu is sourced from reputed food outlets around town (and pretty darn tasty because of it). The guay deow rua (boat noodles), for example, uses meat balls and soup stock from a famous vendor out in Rangsit, and fresh, plump dim sum marvels like the deep-fried pork salapaow and chive and prawn dumplings come from well-known Chinatown eatery Hua Seng Hong.

The View Bar & Restaurant Bangkok (map B4) 2525 Charoen Krung Rd, Bang Kho Laem | 02-689-1393~7 | 5pm-1am | $ Sometimes, it’s all about the name. That is the case with this amiable-yetmammoth nightspot perched on a breezy bend of the Chao Phraya River. Like its Chiang Mai sister restaurant, The Good View is a favourite of young, hip Thais who prefer cold beer and a cozy snuggle to the throbbing bass of downtown nightclubs. Once you’re here it’s not hard to figure out why; The Good View (and they’re not lying) boasts 149 tables, a full Thai food menu, sushi bar and live entertainment warbling Thai pop tunes. Wait staff are gregarious, while ambience treads the fine line between crowded and welcoming despite the restaurant’s humongous proportions. Stand outs: stir-fried soft-shelled crab with red chilli sauce; freshwater prawns under an available of sliced lemon grass and chilli; and a crispy deep-fried whole snapper with fish sauce; a feisty green papaya salad. But the real star of the show here isn’t on your plate. Dining al fresco is a must. Order a beer, snuggle up and enjoy that view.

เดอะ กู๊ดวิว ถ.เจริญกรุง

Boran

ตึกเอ็กซ์เชนจ์ทาวเวอร์ แยกอโศก food & drinks

Food&Drinks

KHUA KLING PAK SOD (map E4) 10/4 Sukhumvit Soi 40 | 11am-2pm & 6pm-9pm, closed Mon | 02-391-1855, 086-307-1850 | $$ Bringing blazing Southern cuisine (the country’s hottest) to a shabby sidestreet near you is this no-frills family restaurant. The dowdy one-room setup presents a handful of tables, Gustav Klimt prints on one wall and assorted family photos on the other. Here, mother and son recommend specialties off the 10- item menu while aunty, a native of Chumporn, a province in the deep south, slaves away in the kitchen. Out they come… plates of crazy hot khua kling moo (fried pork in spicy paste).... dainty tod khamin (fried fish with turmeric and garlic). Others go for the sataw phad goong (a pungent green bean stir-fried with Thai shrimp paste, or kapi, and prawns)…and chow every last bitter-sweet spoonful. We relished them all, but the dishes that really ping with flavour here are the khao yam, a rice and fresh vegetable salad that’s often eaten in the morning but here dampens the dinnertime flames; and the kaeng lueang pla, the South’s classic and complex yellow fish curry. Each plate is a sweat-raising adventure in spice here and, though the servings are fairly small, this humble restaurant comes highly recommended because of it.

ร้านคั่วกลิ้งผักสด สุขุมวิท 40 (ประมาณ 10 เมตรจากปากซอย)

INTERNATIONAL Momo Cafe (map C4) Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista,Soi Suan Plu (Sathorn Soi 3) | 02343-6789 | www.marriott.com | $ When a restaurant has its own brand of bottled water, you know it means business. Dining at Momo Cafe on a Thursday, we found the restaurant was packed with suits (and a smattering of tourists) – most likely attracted by the smartly priced set lunch (B190 net, Mon-Fri, 11am-2:30pm). These include your pick from the salad bar, soft drink of your choice, and a selection from two mains – fusili with tomato sauce and grilled chicken or miso marinated salmon with egg drop soup when we visited. Service was attentive yet unobtrusive, dual characteristics that you’d expect from the Marriott chain. First off, the salad bar served up such an array of market-fresh vegetables that we were worried we’d overfill before the main courses arrived. When they did, the fusili was perfectly al dente and the tomato sauce creamy without being overly heavy. The salmon, however, had a story to tell. Known as ‘Miso Sake’, it was named after the Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista’s first longterm resident – he liked the dish so much he ordered it for lunch every day during his stay. With the option

food & drinks

Momo Cafe

of tacking on a soup, mini-dessert or house coffee or tea for an additional (and very reasonable) B35 each, it was no wonder there wasn’t a spare seat in the house. There must be something in the water.

แมริออท เอ็กเซ็กคูทีฟ อพาร์ทเมนท์ สาทร วิสต้า ซ.สวนพลู 3

bangkok 101

D.B BRADLEY (mapD4) The Eugenia, 267 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-9011-9| www.theeuginia.com | 11:30am2:30pm, 6:00pm-11:00pm | $$$ Great for a leisurely tête-à-tête, D.B. Bradley occupies a petite nook in a fabulous mock-colonial boutique hotel called The Eugenia. Gazing out over the hotel pool, its décor is redolent of a late 19th century country house; yuppie Bangkokians sit on silk-brocade upholstered chairs with tribal textiles, Belgian wooden furniture and two stuffed geese for company. Here, Swisstrained Chef Jus serves unorthodox but well-balanced cross-cultural dishes – “fusion, not confusion” food as he puts it. The Thai maestro gets heavenly results: the creamless field mushroom soup has a peppery assertiveness; appetizer avocado tuna tartar is a fiesta of guacamole, wasabi and sesame ponzu flavours; and mains like the truffle champagne fettuccine with truffle and olive oil sauce are delectably rich.These, and many more imaginative dishes, are available a la carte or as set menus (B1,380 and B1,900 respectively). Pair them with your pick of the 143 A-list French and Italian wines. An infectious spot, from the jasmine candle scent and old-world refinement right down to the velvety panna cotta finish.

รร.เดอะยูจีเนีย สุขุมวิท ซ.31

D.B Bradley

Paris Bangkok

FRENCH

ITALIAN

Paris Bangkok (map C4) 120 Saladaeng Soi 1/1 | 02-233-1990 | 11am-3pm, 6pm-midnight | $$-$$$ This huge new brasserie is an oddball mix of French and Thai – Parisian bar scenes, kinnaree statues, posters of oldtime French advertising and traditional bamboo lunch boxes. There’s an open lounge garden, with a sliding roof for when it rains, and, in keeping with the brasserie motif, a large bar. The menu is building towards traditional French with stalwarts like cassoulet and coq au vin soon to be added, but, judging by the dishes we tried, cuisine here is still a work in progress. Among the starters, the goat’s cheese and apple pastry has a crispy case, resembling an apple turnover, and works pretty well (although a sharper cheese would be better), but the disappointing sea scallop Carpaccio and mango pesto was best described as bland, while a decent beef tartar and an okay strip loin were let down by greasy fries and an artificial-tasting pepper sauce. Still, the evening ended on a high of medium airy chocolate mousse and a fine lemon tart, the undoubted successes of the night. In sum, as its name suggests, Paris Bangkok has a split personality – and the food is a perfect match.

ANTONIO’S (map D4) 26 Soi Sukhumvit 31 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-1001 | 6pm – midnight | $$ It only takes a few seconds after crossing the threshold of this classy Italian to be struck by the passion of the place. From the built-to-last brick and glass finishes to the attentiveness of Antonio himself, who works the place like a circus ringmaster, this 1960s Thai townhouse turned Italian classic is impeccably rendered and staffed. Well-spaced, white-linen tables and a slick black marble bar for aperitifs fill the moodily lit first floor with garden; two private rooms for parties of four and up the second. The first page of the menu tells Antonio’s life story, but even more compelling is the fact that every dish on it is made with the finest produce the chatty Italian-Australian can get his hands on. His signature giant ravioli with porchini mushrooms and cream of truffle sauce alone is worth the trip. Nightly specials, like marbled Australian rib-eye steak and Phuket lobster linguine, are shown to the table before cooking – a testament to the quality in all that he serves. Desserts deport themselves equally well (think panna cotta with pistachio cream and raspberry sauce) and the wine list features mostly Italian and a very quaffable house red. Tables fill up here fast of an evening, and we’re in absolutely no doubt as to why – Antonio’s is top-drawer.

ปารีส แบงคอก ศาลาแดง ซ.1/1

bangkok 101

food & drinks

แอนโตนิโอ สุขุมวิท 31

Food&Drinks

Misaki

LIMONCELLO (map D3) 17 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-0707 | 12pm-2pm, 6pm-11pm | $ A cozy, super-cute space with warm lemon-yellow walls and arching ceilings, Limoncello is the quintessential neighborhood pizza place – albeit an upscale one. Although the restaurant also serves delicious pastas, the pie is the main draw. Crust is thin and tender, tasteful verging on tepid at times. With such an understated crust, simpler options may be the better – too many ingredients and you risk a bolshy, gloppy center to your pie. Look for the parma ham and marscapone pizza – only a few top-quality toppings, lightly applied, but oh so decadent, with a whisper of smoke from the wood oven to add extra depth. Although you may at times wish for a crust with more body to stand up to more assertive ingredients (or your raging appetite), Limoncello is good for a light, sophisticated bite.

ลิมอนเชลโล สุขุมวิท ซ.11

JAPANESE Misaki (map E4) Face | 29 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 38 |02713-6048 | BTS Thong Lo | 6pm – 11pm | $$$ Watching skilled chefs prepare and plate sushi is surely one of the more pleasant ways to while away the time between ordering and eating. At Misaki, the latest addition to the Face restaurant/bar venue, the experience is positively serene. The décor here is unmistakably Face – huge Buddhist sculptures and rich, earthy tones – but there is a cosiness and conviviality all its own. Descending the steps to Misaki’s intimate, but not quite cramped, dining

food & drinks

room feels rather peculiar – almost as though you’re being shepherded into a hush-hush wife-swapping party – but any disappointment at not dining in the venue’s justly-celebrated teak house soon evaporates. Fresh otoro (premium tuna belly) and yellowtail mark out the modestly-priced sushi combo (B490++) as something of a bargain on a high-end menu and the simple yakitori starter (B190++) is a dish so juicy and flavoursome, one wonders why grilled chicken can’t always be this good. The grilled salmon belly is another beguilingly straightforward option.

มิซากิ สุขุมวิท ซ.38

bangkok 101

River Dining Cruises

Grand Pearl

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (ShangriLa) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental). Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last two to three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. Manohra

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Neighbourhood Nosh:Thanon pan Soi 18

Each month we steak out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the skinny in an easily digestible, bite-size format.

Soi 26

Rd.

Wat Khaek

Soi 1

So i 1 1

Silom

5 Pramo

a on P

Soi 19

Than

2 3 4

l Rd. Sri Wieng

Rd.

6 7

rn Rd

Satho

Opus

Pan Road is famous for its technicoloured Maha Uma Devi Indian temple, or Wat Khaek, where devotees come to beseech Hindu Gods to send profits, a new job or new lover their way. However, the area also boasts an interesting muddle of restaurants, some Thai, some Indian, some Persian, some tatty, some classy. Cheap hole-in-the-wall Khrua Aroi Aroi (1), which means ‘delicious kitchen’, gets Thanon Pan off to a delectable start. Ask for the kanom jeen and watch in awe as a lady ladles spoonfuls of authentic Thai curry over fermented rice noodles for you. If these are finished – and by early afternoon they often are – try the beguilingly tasty nam prik pla too (deep fried mackerel with shrimp chilli paste and steamed vegetables). Sit up front for views of the temple and the odd waft of incense smoke.

Walking deeper in, ducking the shop awnings hung with garlands of yellow marigolds as you go, reveals several strictly meat-free restaurants. Tiny Chennai Kitchen (2) specialises in Southern Indian vegetarian and dishes out some pretty mean dosai. Use these crispy Indian crepes to scoop up their potato and lentil-based dips. A few doors down, Yota (3) sells Thai vegan (look for the yellow flags); and Mashoor’s (4) boasts Burmese-Indian tinged curries and thalis, as well as a glass display counter out front loaded with authentic Indian sweets. Taling Pling

food & drinks

Back in the world of the gleefully carnivorous, Persia Restaurant (5) belies its bare, somewhat austere interior with a world of well-rendered Iranian fare: kebabs, lamb curries, salads, minced lamb bbq and the like. Meanwhile, further down on the same side, Thai stalwart Taling Pling (6) attracts a mixed Thai/westerner crowd – and has been for years. Look for the townhouse flanked by a big tree. The chunky pictorial menu screams touristy, but the food mostly isn’t. Try the atypical beef green curry with chunks of tender beef and whole birds eye chillies. Or the meang taling pling, a starter comprised of chicken paste, garlic, peanuts, chilli and sour taling pling fruit condiments that you wrap in betel leafs and pop in your mouth. Last up, Opus (7) is a slick wine bar housed in an uncluttered townhouse decorated in whites and browns and chicly lit. Popular with well-to-do expats, the menu comprises hot and cold antipasti, pastas, such as penne dello chef, as well as impressive mains like steamed seabass in white wine sauce. But it’s mostly about the wines, all 300 or so bottles of them. It’s on a little sidestreet just off Thanon Pan.

bangkok 101

Cafe De Laos

MOO KATA: Thai-style

buffets make mealtime merry Oliver Benjamin

Isaan Eats

Isaan food, Northeast Thailand’s unadulterated cuisine, is everywhere. Bangkok’s streets teem with rot khen (vendor carts) and no-frills restaurants serving comfort foods to the city’s huge Isaan migrant population: dishes like laab (ground-meat salad), gai yang (grilled chicken) and som tum (green papaya salad). Not that they’re the only fans. Though many draw the line at nibbling insects, every strata of Bangkok society – from homesick taxidrivers through to their Prada-clad passengers – has its fans. Indeed, many rank this sweat-raising blend of Lao and Thai cooking (which uses sticky rice, fresh vegetables, chillis, herbs and whatever creature’s within grasp) as just about the best Thai culinary creation going. Almost every sidewalk has a lip-smacking Isaan kitchen (here gastrogems spring from the grittiest of setups), but a meal at one of the following will have you vowing that your days of tart-sweet Thai food are over. n Baan Somtum 9/1 Soi Srivieng, nr Sathorn Road | BTS Surasak | 02-6303485 | 11am-10pm | $ This squat but smart townhouse serves a staggering 22 types of somtum, as well as haunting Isaan soups, at pocket-friendly prices. n Café de Laos 19 Silom Soi 19 | 02-635-2338 | 11am-2pm & 5-10pm | $$ Who said you have to forgo ambience entirely? At Café de Laos you get a posh setting and rustic Issan nosh.You’ll pay more than you would streetside, though. n Isaan Rot Det 3/5-6 Soi Rangnam | 02-246-4579 | BTS Victory Monument | $ The best northeastern fare on Rangnam (a soi renowned for it) is served at this no-frills shophouse. Explosive som tum, crisp vegetables and lots of spice-flushed local faces. n Café Chilli Ground Floor, Siam Paragon | 02-610-9877 | www.cafechilli. com | $ Zingy Isaan delights with hi-so ambitions (think grilled lamb rack with nam jim jaew dip) meet air-conditioned mall. Perfect for when a sweaty you won’t do. n Soi Polo Fried Chicken 137/1-2 Soi Polo,Th Withayu | 02-655-8489 | $ Golden-brown, succulent and blanketed in crisp-fried garlic, their gai thowd (deep fried chicken) is legendary. Also recommended: their catfish laab and tom saep soup. bangkok 101

It’s no secret that Thai people love to dine in big groups. Whereas Westerners tend to order individual plates and might offer little tastes to our friends,Thais are suppertime socialists, with dishes being passed around willy nilly, or big pots fished into by all concerned. One of the most interesting modes of communal chowing-down in Thailand is moo kata. Though it’s probably a remote descendant of Mongolian barbecue, and similar in some ways to Korean barbecue, it has evolved over the eons into something quintessentially Thai. No visitor should leave the country before engaging in one of these fun, frenzied communal cookouts, which are especially abundant in and around Bangkok. Moo kata literally means “skillet pork,” though it’s a bit of a misnomer as pork is only one of the many foodstuffs that end up in the mix. The skillet itself is a sort of dome-shaped metal pan with a trough running around its outer edge – like a derby hat for a robot. The entire thing sits upon hot coals in the centre of the table and is laden with all variety of meats and seafood. The trough is filled with hot water and rapidly becomes broth as the meat juices run down the side of the dome. Leafy green vegetables are dunked in the clear soup as well. No moo kata would be complete without a hunk of pig fat placed on top like a cholesterol cherry: it helps flavour the skillet and turns from white to black in the course of the evening. Moo kata may be the best meal (usually dinnertime only) deal on the planet at anywhere from B70 to B140 for a delicious all-you-can cook smorgasbord. n Plathong Moo Kata Close to Century Movie Plaza, Phayathai Rd. | BTS Victory Monument, Exit 2 | 084-354-8282 | 5pm-midnight | B99++ n 36 Moo Kata Thong 1582/1 Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 50 | On Nut BTS | 02-7427288 | 4pm-midnight | B99++ 69

Food&Drinks

Chok Chai Steak House

Steakhouse Chok Chai Steakhouse (map D3) Prasanmit Plaza Building, 45 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asoke | 02-259-9596 | www.farmchokchai.com | $$ Cattle ranch Farm Chokchai lures in hundreds of Stetson-wearing tourists each weekend. This, their only Bangkok restaurant, a less gung-ho affair, brings that same love of kitsch Americana to a little strip mall on Sukhumvit Soi 23, with Thai cowboy metalwork, wagon wheels and faux-vintage photos all about the otherwise quite modern place. They serve country soups and sides. But of

VEGETARIAN

course it’s all about the assorted steaks; all sourced from the farm, many dryaged for extra tenderness. Ranging from whopping premium T-bones, to thick Highland Steaks served with sticky rice and jiew spicy sauce, these may not be quite as tasty, tender or intensely marbled as your imported Wagyu or Kobes. But they do come with much cheaper price tags (and, because they came from just down the road, much smaller carbonfootprints). Finding space for dessert is a challenge, but one you shouldn’t shirk from: they all star Farm Chokchai’s aptly titled Ummm…Milk ice cream.

โชคชัยเสต็กเฮาส์ สุขุมวิท 23

food & drinks

Anothai (map D3) 976/17 Soi Praram 9 Hospital, Huay Kwang | 02-641-5366 | Thu-Tue 10am-9:30pm | no credit cards | $ Ask any Bangkokian to suggest a good vegetarian restaurant, and he’ll invariably name this tiny place in the otherwise uninteresting northeastern part of town. Once you muster the courage to venture out that far you’ll be surprised to find Anotai’s handful of tables occupied by happy Thai customers and the odd foreigner in the know.They all feast on the innovative dishes created by the owner who grows her veggies on the family farm. The intense flavours of pan-Asian dishes make up for the unpretentious but warm interior.You must leave space for the delicious desserts, and have the friendly staff doggie-bag some of the many cookies on display. Once the bill arrives, you’ll know the advantage of dining in the burbs.

อโนทัย ซ.โรงพยาบาลพระราม 9 ห้วยขวาง

bangkok 101

SPANISH

Chinese

SPANISH ON 4 (map C4) 78-80 Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Deang | 02-632-9955 | Mon-Fri 11am-1am, Sat-Sun 11am-2am | $$ This offshoot of Sukhumvit Soi 11’s Tapas Café employs the same convivial formula in an even more enviable location on gay-friendly club-andflirt-strip Silom Soi 4. In its four-storey building, formerly hip-hop club Speed, Chef Xavier rustles up the same nottoo-salty dishes Tapas Café regulars love, only with his own unique touches. Must nibbles include the patatas bravas (fried potatoes) and deep-fried calamari – two bestsellers that both star their superlative garlic mayonnaise. There’s also paella; imported iberico ham; and, most interestingly, weekly specials like the sautéed mushrooms with a strong white wine and garlic smack. Sit inside the neat, orangeaccented building for a more intimate dinner; out front to ogle the parade of mostly gay bar cruisers while you bask in nightlife noise and neon. It’s a big, upbeat restaurant, ideal for the chatty afterwork nosh or prelude to a big Friday night… and the generous happy hours help: from 11am till 7pm they offer buy 3 pay for 2 tapas, and buy 1 get 1 free jugs of Sangria.

GREAT SHANGHAI (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-258-7042 | 11am – 2pm, 6pm – 10:30pm | $$$ An old Chinese restaurant short on looks but long on taste sits right beneath Phrom Phong BTS station in front of Emporium shopping centre. Like most Chinese restaurants in the city it has an extensive menu, but there’s no need to open it up. Great Shanghai makes Peking Duck in its most sublime form. The skin is so crispy and golden that it retains none of the interior soft fat after they roast it. The crepestyle pancake wraps are soft and moist, and the homemade hoisin sauce perfectly sweet and salty. Order the duck and you’ll also get a duck and bittermelon soup, and the meat offered as an entirely different dish, either stir-fried with garlic or made into a duck moo shoo with sprouts. One order will feed four people and costs B800. Proof of Great Shanghai’s skills in the kitchen can also be found in the clientele, comprised almost exclusively of Thai-Chinese families, the one sector of Thai society that really knows good Chinese food when they taste it.

สแปนิช ออน 4 สีลม ซ.4

เกรทเซี่ยงไฮ้ สุขุมวิท 24

Spanish on 4

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

Indus

LAO/ISAAN

INDIAN Indus (map D4) 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-258-4900 | www.indusbangkok.com | Wed-Mon 11am-10:30pm | all cards | $ Indians make up a big portion of the expats in Bangkok, thus the scarcity of good Indian restaurants in the city may come as a surprise. Thankfully, we’ve had Indus for several years. It’s quite a cosmopolitan place with rich sub-continental adornments though we favour the sloping outside seating in the large sloping garden, complete with an Indian Haveli and tables

hidden by verdant flora. Equally hidden is the cool bar in the back, successfully blending New York extravagance and Moroccan panache, masculine leather sofas perfect for smoking that shisha. The menu focuses on exquisite Northern Indian cuisine (rich tikka massala, mutton curry, perfect dahl, and naan to die for) but also includes Thai food; the vegetarian selection is huge. The impressive interior may invoke steep prices, but most dishes hover around B120 each. This is lowcost luxury at its best. Take a cab from the BTS (skytrain) station.

อินดัส สุขุมวิท 26

dim-sum featured

Heichinrou

Simply one of the best lunch all-youcan-eat dim sum deals going. In a distinctly neo-Chinese setting done out with red, high-tech flourishes and teakwood, the Amari Watergate hotel’s Heichinrou welcomes local workers and internationals alike each lunchtime with its refined, fresh WHERE Amari Watergate Cantonese dim sum and tropical scent. Bangkok 847 Petchburi Road, As well as enjoying endless wooden Phatumwan | 02-653-9000 BTS trays of typical shrimp ha gao, steamed Rajthevi (map D3) WHEN barbecued pork buns and the like, here lunch 12pm-2:30pm / dinner you can also try more unusual dishes 6pm-11pm PRICE B488++ by Executive Chinese Chef Man Wai for all-you-can-eat (lunch only) Yin, like deep-fried taro and double boiled bamboo fungus soup (which is tastier than its sounds, honestly). Drag three friends along with you and it only gets better – parties of four or more receive a free succulent, crispyskinned Peking Duck (otherwise B450++).

Vientiane Kitchen (map E4) 8 Naphasap Yak 1 Sukhumvit 36| BTS Thong Lor | 02-258-6171 | www.vientiane-kitchen.com | noonmidnight | $ While tom yum goong and green curry may have formed a vice-like grip on Thai food in the world’s consciousness, those in the know savour the fresh and fiery offerings from the northeastern region of Isaan. The barn-like Vientiane Kitchen, in upper Sukhumvit, takes Isaan’s close ties with Laos as its cue for an earthy showpiece restaurant that throws live music and dance performances into the mix. Don’t come expecting high-backed loungers and silk napkins: Vientiane Kitchen wears its bamboo furniture and ramshackle layout with pride. Simple grilled chicken and nam prik chilli dips are the stars here – true ambassadors of the region – while there’s something alluring about folding up chunks of snakehead fish and noodles into lettuce packages and washing it down with one of Asia’s finest brews, Beer Lao. Meanwhile, a huge centre-front stage hosts entertaining musicians and traditional dance routines from graceful, painted lovelies. Not a gourmet venue by any means, but still a fun, affordable night out and a good opportunity to sample some regional delicacies.

ครัวเวียงจันทน์ สุขุมวิท 36

รร.อมารี วอลเทอเกต ถ.เพชรบุรี

food & drinks

bangkok 101

runching is big business in Bangkok, with both family-friendly and adults-only offerings to choose from. However, no matter if you’re looking to cure your hangover, chill out to live music or simply soak up the sun, the city serves up something to suit all tastes. Here we sample some of the best.

brunching

featured

Trader Vic’s

brunch

Founded in the 1930s by Californian Victor Bergeron, Trader Vic’s is renowned for its Polynesian theme, relaxed vibe and for being the home of the mai tai (Bergeron claimed to have invented the drink, though this was disputed by his great rival Don the Beachcomber). Southeast Asia’s only branch of this worldwide chain can be found at the Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa, which hugs the southern shores of the Chao Phraya River. Due to the hotel’s slightly out of the way location, brunchers can choose to arrive via taxi or – and this is the suggested route – via the Marriott’s dedicated ferry service Where Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa, 257 from Central Pier, accessible via the Saphan Charoennakorn Road, 02-476-0022 ext 1416; Taksin BTS station. From here, a pleasant www.marriott.com BTS Saphan Taksin Open ten minute cruise downriver brings you to Sunday brunch 11.30am-3pm Price B1,599 with the hotel dock, and a quick walk past the signature cocktail and Hit soft return after B1,899 pool to Trader Vic’s. with free flow wine and beer Apart from the Pacific Island-inspired decor (think dark wooden floors, bamboolined walls, comfy wicker chairs and staring Tikis), the first thing you notice upon arrival is the eclectic spread on offer – the brunch not only includes Vic’s grilled meats (cooked inside a signature Chinese wood-fired oven), but also the best of the rest of the hotel’s F&B outlets. The line-up includes Japanese from Benihana, Italian from Brio, and Thai buffet from the Riverside Terrace. As such, diners are spoilt for choice with dishes from around the world, including such highlights as freshly shucked giant Phuket oysters; crabs, prawns, lobsters and fish grilled to order; and a cheese platter featuring fine fromage and a giant cheese platter featuring fine French fromage and a real honey comb. As you soak up the river view, third mai tai of the afternoon in hand, it’s hard not to be seduced by Bergeron’s Pacific-inspired vision – and prepare yourself for yet another round of fine dining.

แมริออท รีสอร์ท แอนด์ สปา ถ.เจริญนคร

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea

featured

DIVANA HOME CUISINE

WHERE Divana nurture 8 Sukhumvit 35 (map D4) BTS Phrom Phong, 02-261-4818~9, www.divanadvn.com OPEN Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat-Sun10am-11pm PRICE $ 74

What do wellness spas know about high tea? Quite a lot it seems. Banish all preconceptions of cloying concoctions, floaty atmospherics and anaemic scones because Divana’s is a treat in every respect. Set in a genteel, all-white teahouse that overlooks a shady secret garden, their tea-sets work a wonderfully jaunty, 1930s-in-the-tropics vibe. Ensconced in elegant rattan chairs, the urban drone that is Sukhumvit Soi 35 is drowned out by lilting jazz and birds twittering in tall trees beyond. The spread, although light, is surprisingly toothsome to boot. Tea-lovers can “uhm” and “arr” over a slew of traditional, Indian, herbal and fruit infusions – all served loose-leaf in exotic white tea-pots. And despite being almost comically bite-sized, the homemade nibbles are just as luscious. There are delicate shrimp tarts and finger sandwiches, dainty Italian tiramisus, and berry scones… all flagrantly flavoursome. So flavoursome, in fact, that the overtly peckish could easily find themselves embroiled in a minor teaparty scuffle. Or just order another. And at a paltry B220, “Why the devil not?”, as the English say.

ดิวาน่า เนอเชอร์ สุขุมวิท ซ.35 food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

■ Sukhumvit Q BAR 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-2am The ever popular Sukhumvit nightclub serves mighty tasty quesadilla, burgers, ribs, khao mun gai, beef jerky and schwarma and has a cool, al fresco terrace area perfect for enjoying them on with friends.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either. Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you. Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-391-9634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu. ■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half restaurant, half art gallery with innovative Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

dishes like curried crab crêpes. Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya. Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine ■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare. ■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you’re around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.96) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.62). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Coyote on Convent Sivadon Building | 1/2 Convent Rd | 02631-2325 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Tex-Mex Fare with an endless list of margaritas.

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier.

Bug and Bee18 Silom Rd. | 02-2338118 | BTS Sala Daeng | open 24 hours | www.bugandbee.com Four storey café offers up Thai and fusion

Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Thai and International Food

bangkok 101

late-night dining

food & drinks

Sunrise Tacos

Bug and Bee

Food&Drinks

sweet treats

ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

Lullaby Muse

Once upon a time, three university friends – an ice-cream maker, graphic artist and interior designer – decided to reinvent the way sweets are sold. Setting up shop on Sukhumvit 24, the trio created a space full of soft pastel tones, a comfy brown sofa, warm wooden tables, and sheep motifs everywhere. You might say it was their dream hangout. The menu consists of all things dessert, including waffles, brownies and cookies, but the undoubted focus is on ice-cream. There are more than 30 types of gelato available, including the stringy ‘Spaghetti’ special (milk ice-cream with ‘Bolognese’ mixed berry sauce) and the ‘7 Dwarfs’, which, as the name suggests, lets WHERE Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) you mix together a septuplet of flavours. In BTS Phrom Phong, 02-258-9812; fact, they can tailor-make ice-cream to any www.lullabymuse.com OPEN specifications, no matter how strange (here’s 11:30am-10pm PRICE $ your chance to recreate Heston Blumenthal’s famous bacon and eggs version). If you hadn’t already guessed, the food at Lullaby Muse is all about comfort. Indeed, with opening hours running though to 10pm, we wouldn’t be surprised to see this excellent dessert shop full of happily snoozing patrons. Busy counting sheep, one would imagine…

ร้านลัลลาบาย ถ.สุขุมวิท ซอย 24

food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

Buffet Venues ■ TASTE Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | 6am – 11pm | Breakfast B765net, Lunch 990net, Dinner B1,295net ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | noon-2.30pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ Panorama Restauarant Pan Pacific Bangkok | 02-632-9000 | 6:30am – 10:30am, 11:30am – 2:30pm | Breakfast 695 net, Lunch 690++ ■ No.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ Lord jim’s buffet Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ Orchid Café Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ Citi Bistro Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10pm | lunch B650net, dinner B1,300net

all you can eat

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

featured

buffet Citi Bistro

This buffet restaurant benefits from its oh-so-easy to reach location, hanging smugly behind the cavernous shopping hub that is MBK, drawing in not only hotel guests but lines of hungry shoppers. Citi Bistro is sleek and modern; a bright fluorescent walkway leads you to the scene of your impending deeds of gluttony. With a blend of international choices nothing is left out, from sashimi, roasts, DIY salads and various Asian WHERE Pathumwan and Western dishes. The buffet counters form Princess Hotel, 1st Fl (adj. a fort surrounding an open-plan live kitchen to MBK) BTS National where you can admire the chefs hustling to Stadium, 02-216-3700, knock out fresh dishes. A wide selection of www.pprincess.com meats and seafood are available and cooked to OPEN 11:30-2:30pm, 6pmorder, along with fresh homemade pasta and 10:30pm PRICE lunch curries. The spread tries to emphasize unique 650net, dinner890 net presentations with cold appetizers in miniature martini glasses and little spoons; the satay chicken and peanut sauce in a shot glass are tempting just to look at, and the skewered meats are, uniquely, served up cold. Buffet: B650nett for lunch and B890nett for dinner.

รร.ปทุมวันปริ๊นเซส ติดกับห้างมาบุญครอง

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

wine

Siam Winery

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine

Opera Riserva Wine Bar

Getting to this hip “winetheque” entails a taxi ride up the oft-congested Sukhumvit 39, but it’s a well worth the trip. Adjacent to L’Opera, one of Bangkok longest-standing Italian eateries, this laid-back wine and cigar lounge features a narrow bar/dining area downstairs, comfy, quicksand sofas and a DJ spinning chilled tunes for a mainly local crowd. An-ever changing WHERE 53 Sukhumvit selection of wines of the month range from Soi 39, 02-258-5601, B370++ by the glass, or choose a bottle www.operariserva. (starting at B2,000) from the 300+ labels on com BTS Phrom Phong offer. If you taste something you like, pop (then taxi)OPEN 6pm – into the cash and carry wine shop next door 10:30pm and stock up for reasonable prices, In sync with the cuisine, over half the wine list hails from Italy; the remainder is an eclectic mix from both the New and Old World. Simple and fresh, the authentic bar fare focuses on grilled meats, imported cheeses and cold cuts,. Order up a plate of the daily tapas and let yourself go…

โอเปร่า ไวน์บาร์ สุขุมวิท 39

food & drinks

Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

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Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Cowboy (btw sois 21 & 23). And voguish but affordable amount of options – so much more than just the hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and whisky-sippin’ naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot sois of Thong A night out here can easily have you flitting between Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63). Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.95) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond. Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.94), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.84. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can. The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.86), there’s something for all. Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals. Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here. Supperclub (p.82) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes – n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque Soi where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks. 80

nightlife

bangkok 101

Nightlife

nightclubs

Bed Supperclub

Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no. Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4,Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping. ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 808

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past seven years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 80’s pop hits with house music.

เบด ซัปเปอร์คลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

nightlife

bangkok 101

Calypso

Demo

Cabarets DEMO (map E4) Thonglor Soi 10 (next to Funky Villa) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-711-6970-1 | 8pm1am | free (except one-off parties) Is Demo a sign of clubs to come in Thonglor? Or just a blip on the slickly gentrified area’s cookie-cutter nightclub factory line? Time will tell. In the meantime, we strongly suggest you check out this ramshackle tenement building turned gritty warehouse. Not only does it look like a venue you’d find in shabby, hipster-heaving East London. It sounds like one too: instead of mainstream hip-hop and live-bands, Demo’s DJs blast trendy nu-disco, house and electro through a kicking sound-system. And when they do go hip-hop, on Wednesdays, they keep it old-school. Further boosting its streetcool hip quotient, 1980s Brooklynstyle graffiti covers the brick walls and a vintage white Toyota Celica gleams in one corner. They offer a huge range of (quite expensive) beers, shots and cocktails and, though it’s only recently opened, weekends are already packed out with an international crowd.

เดโม ทองหล่อ ซ.10

808 (map D3) RCA, block C | 02-203-1043 | MRT Pra ram 9 | www.808bangkok.com | 9am-late This slick nightclub – all imposing red lighting, exposed brick and steelcladding – has been a hit with clubbers bangkok 101

ever since it landed on RCA in 2007. The reason: the consistently worldclass line-up. Grandmaster Flash, James Lavelle and Derrick May to name but a few global DJ giants, have all rocked this post-industrial warehouse, aided in no small part by the ear-drum/ body/table rattling sound-system (watch that drink dance!). Head up to the balcony for a comfy leather perch, or gyrate with the diehards on the dancefloor. Entrance prices vary depending on who is gracing the decks that night.

เอท โอ เอท อาร์ซีเอ บลอกซี

GLOW (map D3) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | | 6pm-2am This boutique club/bar/lounge challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-to-night, with deep-house and electro looming large and no hip-hop (hurrah!). Foxy coyote girls, dancing on the bar, make queuing for drinks here something of a guilty pleasure. For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool and up-todate website.

โกลว์ สุขุมวิท ซ.23

nightlife

MAMBO (map C4) 59/28 Rama 3 Rd | 02-294-7381-2 | show time 7:15pm, 8:30pm, 10pm (please reserve for 10pm) | B800, VIP B1,000 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ ถ.พระราม3

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02-216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,200 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ่ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

Panorama

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Balco (map B4) 5th FL River City Shopping Complex, Yota Road, Charoen Krung 30 | Si Phaya Pier | 084-928-6161 | 6pmlate, closed Mondays If coasting along the Chaophraya River on a dinner cruiser leaves you wanting, after disembarking the boat at the River City Shopping Complex, pop up to Balco Bar on its rooftop. This airy alfresco hangout offers farreaching views of all the action on this busy waterway, a good mix of friendly locals and tourists, and soothing music from bossa nova tunes to house beats as the night rolls on. Reasonably priced drinks (beer B80, cocktails B180, whiskey B1, 200) include interesting cocktail choices created by the bar’s owner. If your favorite drink is off the menu, request it and they’ll be happy to mix it for you. A good place for lovebirds and flocks of friends to sit back on the funky nest-shape chairs or couches, catch a breeze and that memorable Bangkok riverscape.

บัลโค ศูนย์การค้าริเวอร์ซิตี้ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16

Panorama (map C3) Pan Pacific Bangkok, Rama IV Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Ideal for interminably hot or drizzly nights, the Deck Bar is a low-slung little bar counter found in the partitioned area at the rear of the Pan Pacific’s upmarket Panorama restaurant. Perfect for pre-dinner, the wine-list here is a facsimile of the restaurants (i.e. expansive and top-notch), and on cool nights the windows are open to the night air and a 23rd floor view across Bangkok. Plonk yourself on one of its stools, order in a scotch and some fancy tapas, and let your eyes wander across the grounds of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and up over downtown – not quite breathtaking, but still very Bangkok.

รร. แพนแปซิฟิค ถ.พระราม 4

bangkok 101

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee.The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe.The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

รร. โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

Amorosa

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor Distil

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterraneanish Amorosa.The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it. Or come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day of temple hopping. And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant,The Deck, and 6 lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

bangkok 101

and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smartcasual dress code is enforced.

nightlife

Nightlife

hotel bars & nightclubs

Zuk Bar

Bamboo Chic

CM2 (map C3) Basement, Novotel Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6 | BTS Siam | 02-255-6888 | www.cm2bkk.com | 6:30pm-2am The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s party cave par excellence still packs them in over a decade after it opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. Gone is the old karaoke complex, making room for pool tables and lounging space overlooking the big and quite 1980s looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) dancefloor. It’s mainstreamy all the way. DJs play Club 18-30-style dance-pop and bubbly live bands perform as if every song is a potentially life-changing audition (Simon Cowell would be impressed). Cheesy? Maybe, a bit; but still a fun (and always eye-opening) experience. International and Thai food, as well as a whopping great cocktail list that includes some made with Amaltery’s alcoholic ice-cream, is served.

รร.โนโวเทลสยามสแควร์ สยามสแควร์ซ.6

Bamboo Chic (map C4) Le Meridien Bangkok 4F, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8888 | BTS Sala Daeng | www.lemeridienhotelbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Dim-tones and giant chandeliers set the tone for haute Sino-Nippon cuisine at Bamboo Chic: Le Meridien hotel’s dashing designer resto-bar. But Bangkok’s jetset have also taken a shine to what’s being served over at the arresting lime-florescent bar – innovative cocktails like the Kyoto martini: a delectable blend of dry gin, midori, dry vermouth and lemon juice, served in a fishbowl glass. Highwattage smiles and slick service rounds off this voguish venue, as apt for postwork or pre-dancefloor tipples as it is a swanky dinner. Just steel yourself for a blast of cognitive dissonance on arrival… Patpong, the neon sleazepit cum night market, is Bamboo Chic’s unscrupulous neighbour.

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | MonSat 5pm-1am, Sun noonmidnight Hotel guests and clued-up suits enjoy zesty cocktails, creative canapés and an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquillity at this classy hotel bar. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the sultry look, mood and service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for heart-to-hearts. The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a sociable spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior. Quietly solicitous lady staff clad in silk serve while a DJ from Tues to Sat spins soulful tunes.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

รร.เลอ เมอริเดียน กรุงเทพ ถ.สุรวงศ์

CM2 CM2

nightlife

bangkok 101

Spasso

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

Barsu

Club 87 Plus (map C3) Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-690-9087 | 6pm - 2am Bigger, sleeker and sexier, the Conrad hotel’s recently relaunched flagship nightspot has targeted its audience from the get-go. Don’t be expecting minimalist jungle or Ibiza-style foam par ties, but if you like to cut a little rug to tunes from the 80s and 90s, this joint should do just fine. The main draw here is the band, Citybeat (Tues-Sun, 10pm-2am). They know how to get a party going with their tried and tested repertoire of funked-up pop classics. DJ 90 provides the soundtrack for the daily buy-one-get-one-free Happy Hour (6-9:30pm), and takes centre stage on Monday evenings. Thursday is Ladies Night and Sunday’s Latin. There’s also a nifty new smoking lounge adjoining the venue.

โรงแรมคอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

nightlife

SPASSO (map C3) Lower lobby, Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-254-1234 | www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com | noon2:30pm, 6:30pm-2am After going strong for more than a decade, the mother of all live venues still doles out fantastic Italian food and cool bands.The food is so good lunches and brunches teem with high society types.Thai execs and bubbly after-work expats turn up from 7pm onwards to tuck into simple-soundings but firstclass Italian specialties; it’s a pretty good value, especially considering this is a five-star hotel joint. Whatever you’ll try, have it with what must be Bangkok’s best sangria. Come 10pm, diners thin out when the live band starts pumping out high-energy songs which get the dance floor heaving with a mixed, grown-up crowd – weekend nights can see people queuing up to get in.

แกรนด์ไฮแอทเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Nightlife

bars Hyde & Seek (map C3) 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee | 02-168-5152 | BTS Phloen Chit | 11am-1am | $$ Two bright lights of Thailand’s F&B scene opened this stylish downtown gastro bar: a dead-ringer for one of those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pick-me-up cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is fuelled by Chanond Purananda, a partner in Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgianinfluenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and the beginnings of a minimaze of tea plants to partition dining areas. Hyde & Seek is a rare entry into the still huge market for high quality at middle prices, and swarms with the rich and powerful looking most nights, so best book ahead.

แอทธินีเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ร่วมฤดี

Hyde & Seek

WTF

WTF (map E4) 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 |BTS Thonglor | 02626-6246 | BTS Thong Lo | www.wtfbangkok.com | Tues-Sun 6pm1am (gallery open from 3pm) “It’s just like a bar in BarcelonaBerlin-Brooklyn” (take your pick), say punters when they enter WTF. The tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs apparently salvaged from an old Czech café. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo, feta salad and pork fried-rice steamed in lotus leaf. It’s more intimate and much, much smaller, but WTF definitely owes a DNA strand or two to Raindogs, the creative social club that shutdown earlier this year. And that’s a good thing. Just like it, there are occasional live gigs, edgy art exhibitions (in two bare white rooms upstairs), and, on busy nights, a mix of local indie hipsters, journos and art-scensters to chew the fat with.

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place.The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnameseinspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues. The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

ดับเบิลยูทีเอฟ สุขุมวิท ซ.51

nightlife

bangkok 101

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am This shabby open-air streetside joint is a real Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety island hole-inthe-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. CC’s is the kind of place where it’s easy to fall into conversation with other patrons; whether it’s because you’re sheltering from a rain shower together or end up sharing one of the few tables. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

THE IRON FAIRIES & CO (map E4) 394 Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | 084520-2301 | BTS Thong Lor | www.theironfairies.com This recent arrival injects a healthy dose of creativity into the city’s nightlife scene and is probably the coolest bar in Bangkok right now. It’s an oddball cross between a curiosity-cum-antiques shop — yes, you can actually buy the eponymous iron fairies themselves — and homage to the 1920s. Walls are daubed black, silent movies are projected on the walls upstairs, an in-house magician tours the tables impressing inebriated revellers with his slight of hand, and Doris Day classics are belted out from the castiron spiral staircase. The venue has the labyrinthine otherworldliness of a Terry Gilliam set with a touch of the bordello. Beers start from B120 a bottle, a wellmixed dirty martini goes for B280 and the burgers, which are served pinned to a wooden chopping board with a steak knife, are divine.

ดิไอรอนแฟรี่ส์แอนด์โค ซ.ทองหล่อ

bangkok 101

The Iron Fairies

PHRANAKORN BAR (map A3) Soi Damnoen Klang Tai, Ratchadamnoen Rd. | 02-622-0282 | 6pm-1am When Khao San Road’s obnoxious bars wear thin – and they do – flee in search of this cool, multi-level boozer tucked just off Ratchadamnoen Road. It’s an old favourite of local art students, mostly for its indie/80s/90s worshipping playlist and mellow trestle-and-vine rooftop offering splendid views, over rickety old-city rooftops, towards the floodlit Golden Mount temple. The booze and Thai food is also cheap as chips, as is most of the modern art hanging on the second floor. Tried to find it before but failed? You wouldn’t be the first. From the Burger King end of Khao San Road, turn right onto Ratchadamnoen, right again and it’s down the first soi on your left hand-side. In the evenings there’s usually at least one vintage VW beetle parked outside.

พระนครบาร์ ซ.ดำเนินกลางใต้ ถ.ราชดำเนิน nightlife

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serveyourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Put it this way: if you’re looking for a chocolate Martini and a plate of tapas, you’re in the wrong place.Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close – it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom –and watch the night unfold.

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

Nightlife

jazz clubs

Bamboo Bar

THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained. World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Jazzy Brunch. Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, The Living Room mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ 90

nightlife

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must. รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล

bangkok 101

Niu’s on Silom

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well worth crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jaw-dropping jazz venue. Since July its dressy crowd has been soaking up that camera-grabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of Micki L Murphy. Her sultry renditions – spanning jazz to bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help. Requests are welcomed. รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ.เจริญนคร Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every bangkok 101

Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม บ้านสีลม BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this long-standing, smoky jazz club.The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yesteryear with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band starts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

nightlife

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club Is Bangkok’s newest and brightest jazz club location, Where you can enjoy live performances daily, which include International musicians and some of the hottest local musicians.

Niu’s on Silom Jazz Club

Wine Bar & Restaurant 661 Floor 1-2 Silom Road (cnr Soi 19) Tel: 0 2266 5333-4 Daily 5pm-1am; Free valet parking reservation@niusonsilom.com www.niusonsilom.com

Nightlife

live music

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do theThai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

OVERTONE (map D3) 29/70-72 RCA Zone D | 02-2030423 | www.overtone.tv | Closed Mon/Tues Overtone has what every venerable rock club needs: a wall of fame. And it’s a good one. Megadeth and Jimmy Page have both graced Overtone with their straggly-haired presence, as has pretty much every lightening fingered axe-grinder in the Kingdom. Not bad 92

for a live music cave tucked along RCA, a club-strip that usually does a good line in brash hip-hop superclubs. Inside, bands rock out while vintage Les Paul and Fender Stratocaster guitars, presented like hallowed museum pieces in backlit wall alcoves, look on. The orange-themed décor is a little more suave than your average rock dive, but the steady line-up of hard rock acts intermingled with the odd night of jazz, indie, blues or ska one of the most intriquing in town. Check their website for the latest.

โอเวอร์โทน ถ.อาร์ซีเอโซนดี

Nomads 106-108 Silom Soi 4, 02-266-3552 | Tue-Sun 5pm-late A live music bar a few minutes from Sala Daeng Skytrain could be just what the doctor ordered. Nomads is a beer and boogie joint with a friendly owner and nightly bands including long-time favourites the Soi Dog Blues Band and the Fugitives, a sax and trumpet-led five piece doing soul, funk and jazz. Sundays is a band jam, with everyone welcome, while the Tuesday open mike is a more acoustic opportunity to try out your new songs. The small square room is right at the end of Soi 4. Beers start at B90, cocktails from B100 and there’s a snacky menu of dishes like wings, spaghetti and spicy Thai salads.

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

Bangkok Rocks (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

รร.เดอะคีย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.19

โนแมด สีลม ซ.4

Overtone

nightlife

Brown Sugar

bangkok 101

Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age timecapsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, often soul-stirring.

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm-1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage, it’s a sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eyecandy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. It’s a hike, but well worth it. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s – the secret’s out!

ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์

Parking Toy

Tawandaeng German Brewery (map C4) 462/61 Narathiwat Rama 3 Road | 02-678-1114 | www.tawandang.co.th | If there’s one place that slaps you round the chops and screams “you’re in Thailand!” it’s Tawandang. This humungous, barrel-shaped beer hall with decent micro-brewed beer takes its cue from Deutschland. But the live music and unchecked sanuk up to 1,600 lary revelers enjoy here each night here is something very Thai. Its laidback early on, with everyone chomping on plates of the famous deep fried pork knuckle and German sausage, among other decent Thai, Chinese and German dishes. By 10pm though, when bellies are full, the lager’s kicked in and the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam performances by the famous Fong Nam houseband and guests are at full pelt, everybody is on the feet and the place going bananas. Tipsy tourists clink glasses with every stranger in reach, while middle-aged mums shake their tooshes beside ladyboys. Great, goofy, love-for-Bangkok reaffirming fun. Reservations a must for big groups.

โรงเบียร์เยอรมันตะวันแดง พระราม 3

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them reliving their glory years here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride it is you’ve stumbled on, while inside house bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything from Van Halen to Motorhead covers. Bands get going at 10pm weekdays, 9:30pm on weekends, as they have done for the past 22 years.

เดอะ ร๊อคผับ ถ.พญาไท

TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 www.titaniumbangkok. com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from.An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม ไอซ์บาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

nightlife areas

Hemlock

PHra athit rd

Police Station

Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of dek naew (trendy teens) and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young locals bounce along to excellent live ska. A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite, Zest [4] focuses on live Brit Rock, while Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down another alley, is a retro-cool cocktail house. More full-on, The Club [6] is a popular techno palace offering free UV glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an open-sided rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till the wee hours. For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at 1 6 3 2 rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club Burger kHao sanroad rd Khao San [10] also deserves a mention. King 5

Ekkamai/Thonglor

Funky Villa

new phetchaburi rd

Ekkamai Soi 28

Soi 20

Soi 16

Thong Lor Soi 10

Ekkamai Soi 10

Soi 1

Sukhumvit RD

Soi 21

In recent years these parallel boulevards have embraced sweeping gentrification and emerged as upmarket playgrounds for the young, studiously cool zeitgeist follower, be they celebrity, model, arty type, uni student or slick professional. Aside from their surfeit of luxury condos, boutique lifestyle emporiums, designer spas and restaurants both are studded with trendy nightspots catering to a predominantly Thai clientele. New ones pop up every few months, as if to keep hipsters on their toes and match that season’s colours. For now Muse [1], FunkyVilla [2] and Demo [3] – three giganto clubs on Thonglor Soi 10 – are all the rage. Meanwhile, scattered about are old-timers like Song Saleung [4], a recently refurbished and often heaving live music joint, and Shades of Retro [5] – a combo furniture-store café and hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd. Ekkamai’s main drag and side-streets are even better endowed party-wise. Curvaceous Curve [6] and glamorous Jet Metropolitan [7] are big, top-shelf joints offering the usual failsafe blend of live Thai music and DJ’s spinning R’n’B. As the scene stands both are big draws, though the crowds are so gleefully fickle that could change in a Bangkok minute. Track them to the cool club of the moment. Or try two that have achieved longevity: nightclub Nunglen 4 BTS Thong Lor [8] and scruffy little bar Happy Monday [9]. Pretty Soi 55 (Thong lor) young things bounce along 5 to Thai tunes in the former; 1 2 while media types (25+) 3 hobnob while enjoying low6 8 key indy-rockstar DJ sessions Soi 63 (Ekkamai) (May T from Modern Dog 7 9 etc) and slouchy sofas in the BTS Ekkamai latter. nightlife

bangkok 101

ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

road AL LO C

road

For a night of clubbing, Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music. Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] bangs out bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, slick granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [4], a red-brick warehouse with a crisp sound system and sets by global DJ gods. And opposite sits Cosmic Cafe [5], where indie types catch up with pals and nod appreciatively to live bands. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] hosts some of the best rock, reggae or blues nights in town. There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a girls-only policy. Seriously: no men, gay men, drag queens or peeping Tom’s allowed.

5 RCA road

1 2

Sukhumvit Soi 11

On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, pubs, bars and nightclubs tucked off Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with hedonist expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely.This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 10 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]: a spaceship-like club-cum-restaurant that attracts a dressy international crowd every night. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad bigger than a broom cupboard. Nest [4], a 1 breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, is a more upscale option 4 offering laid2 Bed Supperclub back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean 5 Bangkok you were after? Then sheepishly make your way 3 to the backend of the Ambassador Hotel’s basement carpark, where thumping after-hours nightclub Climax (5) lures in the good, the bad, the beautiful and the ugly till the wee hours. Soi 11

Q Bar

SUKHUMVIT road

bangkok 101

nightlife

Nightlife

featured

pub Balcony Humidor

Cigar Lounges

House of Beers

Two years ago, House of Beers – or HoBs, as it’s better known – arrived on a beer-swilling scene dominated by shouty British theme pubs and sprawling German beer gardens. It created waves among the more discerning drinker by bringing two things to market: imported Belgian beers, and an intimate, faux-medieval Belgian setting in which one could enjoy them without having to yell across the table. With its original Thonglor location busier than ever, HoBs has spawned a second branch at Aree Garden, a debonair new lifestyle Where Aree Garden, Soi mall on Soi Ari Samphan, Ari Samphan, 02-617-1600; an area eagerly nipping www.hobsbkk.com BTS Ari at the heels of Thonglor in Open 11am-1am the affluent suburb stakes. Just like its predecessor, lots of exposed brick and warm oak lends it a convivial European mood, as does its intimate interior and a stoollined bar. Perfect for the upcoming cool season, there’s also an already in-demand balcony terrace from which you can peer down onto the complex’s chic courtyard landscaping. Best of all, though, here you can indulge in the same esoteric line-up ranging from hoppy pale ales, like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden, to doubly fermented specials, like the earthy Kwak, plus fruit beers and mass-market brawlers, like Stella Artois. Each comes served in its own uniquely shaped glass and an alcohol content that ranges from weak (2.8%) to potentially knockout (10%). If, like we are, you’re accustomed to glasses of iced local Thai beer, better fill up on HoB’s decent selection of Tapas-style bar snacks first.

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality coronas and fine figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the lounges typically feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and stellar selections of wine and single malt whisky. Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public. The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and what is billed as Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies. n Balcony Humidor & P&L Club Cigar Bar Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 n Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight n La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com n P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

Club Perdomo

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

BTS Surasak sathorn road

Thaniya

patpong

1 Convent road

Surasak road

silom road

BTS Sala Daeng

Silom area

Sukhumvit AREA PUBS

bangkok 101

soi 39

sukhumviT road

BTS Asoke

soi 22

soi 12

BTS Nana

soi 6

soi 4

sukhumviT road

soi 35

soi 11

soi 13

soi 33

soi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

BTS Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

shopper scene

As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering citysized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map - and prepare for sheer retail overload.

UNIQUE boutique

The Chonabod

Shops and stalls piled high with brand knock-offs and tribal tat are the norm in the Khao San Road area, but at The Chonabod – a sanuk little shop on Phra Athit Road run by a left-leaning folk art and graphic design collective – almost everything is handmade and Thai-designed. One corner is full of T-shirts, shoulder bags, cloth screen prints, pillowcases, mugs, aprons, pha khao ma scarves, notebooks and more – all appearing under the Siam Ruay label. Featuring graphic designs and fonts adapted from old-school Siamese alphabets, flags, prints, maps and adverts, these make awesome souvenirs or gifts, not least because unlike most of the stuff sold around Khao San, they’re not mass-produced and offer a sincere, homespun take on Thai culture. The same can also be said of the more whimsical items which make up the store’s second half: handmade toys and folk art, mostly. Hanging mobiles strung with crude yet cute flying elephants and pigs dangle from the rafters, while ply-wood tables are loaded with primitive yet inWhere Next to Pitchy genious old Thai toys Guesthouse (opposite New made using teak, coSiam Riverside hotel), Phra Athit conut shells, palm leaf, Road, 089-494-5669, siamruaybamboo and hemp midi.blogspot.com Open Daily (and the odd length 12pm-8pm Prices B20-B2,000 of string or rubber band). “Nearly all this stuff I commission from different villages up in north Thailand, where elderly craftspeople still have the wisdom needed to make them,” says Khun Tangnet ‘Pooh’ Takrudkaew, the female founder of the PoomDin label this lot appear under. Highlights include a toy naga made from segments of teak held together without nails, wooden pop-pop guns, coconut shell turtles that run, and a pull-string monkey door bell. Highly recommended.

shopping

bangkok 101

stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, home-grown “stuff” that Bangkok is justly famous for. Papercut & The Pencil Sharpener

Silk/apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down.The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom bangkok 101

Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for royalty), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com

Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while youth-orientated shopping mall Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer homespun high fashions by labels like Jaspal and Greyhound.

Jewellery/gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionallymined precious stones. The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam. There are a few diamonds in the rough, though. Lambert Industries, with their friendly and reliable service, has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. n Lambert Industries (807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg 4F, Silom Rd Soi 17, 02-236-4343).

OTOP: One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP, a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living.

shopping

Shopping

Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.102). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week. Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.102); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595

Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th n Panpuri

Shopping Tips

n Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head.

n Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

n Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. 100

shopping

Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power. At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Isetan Plaza (CentralWorld) F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info n VAT: Look out for signs advertising “VAT Refund or Tourists”. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7% on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods. Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th

bangkok 101

bangkok design Brian Mertens

Ou Baholyodhin: London Calling

The advantage of understatement speaks clearly in the case of designer Ou Baholyodhin. His fluent wielding of minimalist style has succeeded in an unusually wide range of applications, from furniture and industrial design, to interiors and special events. He made his mark creating interiors for London hot spots like K-Bar in Chelsea and Soho and the Thai restaurant Patara. In Barcelona, he designed Lasarte, venue of star chef Passeig de Grazia. Along the way came ceramics, lacquer ware and textiles. He conceived fashion shows and parties for the likes of Kenzo and Madonna. He authored two volumes for the coffee-table, Living With Zen and Being With Flowers. Ou has done industrial design for large-scale Thai manufacturers, helping them outpace low-cost competitors in China. Examples include a premium line of sanitary ware for the Nahm brand and a collection of tumblers and stemware for Ocean Glass. For leading textile house Jim Thompson, Ou designed the Hemingway series of upholstered seating. With subtly trapezoidal geometry, these sofas and chairs glow with the sheen of hand-woven silk. “Every year I make small adjustments to improve the look, the ease of production or the comfort. I’m very pleased with the final result.” Ou’s versatility benefits from an eclectic education. Beyond architecture and furniture design, he studied cookery in Florence and political science at London School of Economics. He’s as much London as Bangkok but Asian influences shimmer through in the subtle colours, materials and lines of his designs. “My work is easy on the eye. Nothing loud or brash. There’s definitely a feeling of modesty often associated with the Buddhism of Thailand, where I grew up.” n Contact: www.ou-b.com

Bangkok Design:Thai Ideas in Textiles and Furniture is the first book to explore Asia’s new wave in design creativity. Award-winning author Brian Mertens profiles 36 of Thailand’s top designers, showing how they translate their own culture and experiences into unique furnishings that have won international awards and museum exhibitions. Typically handcrafted from natural materials, the best contemporary Thai designs celebrate wit, warmth, sustainability and alluring form. Bangkok Design – published by Marshall Cavendish – B1,200 - hardcover, written by Brian Mertens, with photos by Robert McLeod. bangkok 101

shopping

101

Shopping

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Amari Watergate 4 The Four Seasons 5 Grand Hyatt Erawan 6 Intercontinental 7 Holiday Inn 8 Conrad 9 Plaza Athenee 10 Royal Orchid Sheraton 11 The Oriental 12 The Peninsula 13 Shangri-La

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

Phaya Thai rd

u ri rd

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

ph e tb

Phaya Thai rd

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chid Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine. Think Burberry.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

Ratchadamri rd 4

5 6 7

BTS Chitlom

chidlom

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oe n kr char

ong s u raw

OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel. 13

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To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture. Look for TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

rive

BTS Ploen Chit

yra

. ya rd S i phra

o ph cha

WITTHAYU rd

C E N TRAL CH I T LOM BTS Chit Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

phetburi rd

ploenchit rd

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chid Lom All-white interior of glitzy, top-class brands – expect Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

s ilo

bangkok 101

chatuchak weekend market

Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can get lost – literally.

JJ Gem

aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which zillions descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Chatuchak quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs during ‘Nam; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has somehow evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for peddling endangered species). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits - although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fullyblown, unadulterated fix.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

Chatuchak Map Rd . 1 n io ct

Though Perth & Potter isn’t much to look at, it’s what’s inside that counts. Edge towards the glass cabinets and you’ll spot an array of diamonds and gemstones of all hues – earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings, many made from gold and silver. Aside from being able to purchase from their collection on the spot, you can also get oneoff designs made to order, be it a piece you spotted in a magazine, WHERE Section 2, on a friend’s finger, or a figment Soi 41/1 Gate 28 | of your imagination. Explain your 081-6433-455 idea to owner Khun Nathasit and he will sketch out your dream jewel and use his 32 years of experience to make it. Only the highest quality gemstones and finest equipment are used. 14. Clothing, miscellaneous 15. Pets and accessories 16. Clothing, miscellaneous 17. Ceramics 18. Clothing, miscellaneous 19. Ceramics 20. Clothing, miscellaneous 21. Clothing, miscellaneous 22. Home utensils and décor, furniture 23. Clothing, miscellaneous 24. Home utensils and décor, furniture 25. Home utensils and décor, furniture 26. Antiques

Rd .

Section 9

Section 13

Section 15

Section 4

To Victory Monument

Section 5

To Vibhavadhi - Rangsit Rd.

shopping

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Section 14

S K ampha ect

Section 16

Section 10

6 Ja eng Pu tuj Ph bl ak ic et Pa 3 Rd rk .

Section 18

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Section 21

eng

Section 11

23 22

ct Se

Section 8

Clock Tower

n io

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Section 19

ct Se n io ct Se

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c 2 5 t ion

Perth & Potter

1. Books, antiques, collectibles, food & drink 2. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 3. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 4. Hip fashion boutiques, plants, food & drink 5. Second-hand clothing 6. Second-hand clothing 7. Art, food & drink 8. Handicraft, home décor and miscellaneous 9. Pets and accessories 10. Clothing, accessories, miscellaneous 11. Pets and accessories 12. Clothing, miscellaneous 13. Pets and accessories

3 et Ph eng

t K St am at pa io n n gp K ampha he

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of the month

Chatuchak Station

103

Shopping

markets

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the “thieves market”, this smallish street-side market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique, and a seemingly random assortment of household appliances. As its nickname would suggest, ample bargains await patient, eagleeyed shoppers - though don’t expect a receipt, let alone a refund.

นครเกษม

Ratchada Night Market Fri-Sat Nights (busiest on Saturday) | parallel with RatchadapisekLadprao intersection | MRT Ratchadapisek or Ladphrao Vendors at this nighttime (and teen-thronged) flea market flog all sorts of retro and secondhand stuff, from art deco lamps and ghetto blasters to Polaroids and vintage clothing. Somewhat like a country fair, it’s open-air and most wares are laid out on the ground, so expect to squat a lot. Besides the used items, lots of handmade products, such as paintings and women’s accessories, also squeeze into this small-city sized market; as does a live band, lots of local food and a mini motor show of classic cars and bikes (nope, those VW vans and pastel-coloured Vespas aren’t for sale unfortunately). So worth the schlep, but bring a flashlight and your bargaining skills!

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was hailed as “Venice of the East”.

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-thatbe auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s obsessive collection of modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนท์บาร์ซาร์

Thewet

เทเวศน์

ตลาดนัดกลางคืนถนนรัชดา

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bangkok 101

sidewalks

Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny T-shirts, wooden carvings, paintings and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the stuff on offer can be picked up in the malls and markets – but where’s the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain! Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tie-dye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff (frayed t-shirts, handbags, polka dot dresses etc) are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale by the city’s babyfaced entrepreneurs.

ถ.ข้าวสาร

Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am,

when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here.

สีลม/พัฒน์พงษ์

Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail

boats moored on idyllic southern beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

ถ.สุขมุ วิท

Pratunam A ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!). Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item.

ประตูนำ้

Simply Serene Perfecting the harmony between your mind, body and soul, Crystal Spa offers an exquisite Thai heritage spa experience. Using traditional Thai herbs and a masterful touch, our masseuses deliver divine treatments in a serene and exotic setting.

October Promotion: Lift Up Facial Treatment 30% off Aroma Hot Candle

Crystal Spa is located on Sukhumvit Rd., right in front of BTS Phrakanong Station escalator (Exit 3). Open daily from 10.00-22.00 hrs. Free parking is available at Good Year Eagle Store.

For Reservation: Tel.02-382-2244, 02-382-4455 www.crystalspathailand.com bangkok 101

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105

Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In each new issue Bangkok 101 brings you the best of Bangkok’s new breed. Each month we uncover those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy boutique hotel banner.

Praya Palazzo

Call us jaded, but it’s rare that a new hotel makes us sit up and take notice. However, this history-steeped mansion on the river’s edge, accessible only by private boat, has managed it. After decades of dereliction, the former nobleman’s home, located just across from Phra Athit Road’s Santichaiprakarn Park, has been transformed from a rotting husk into one of the most eye-catching buildings on the Chao Phraya – a palatial 17-room mansion perfect for couples (and also, thanks to the function room and gardens, face-gaining corporate events). It was built in 1923, a time when Bangkok-based Italian architects such as Galileo Chini and Carlo Rigoli were never short of commissions. Though not their work (the original owner, customs official Praya Cholabhumi-Panit, drew up the designs himself), the 1920s Italian influence is unambiguous and remains intact, all thanks to architect Wichai Pitakvorrarat, who sadly passed away before the years of intricate restoration he oversaw were complete. After arriving by private boat, a baroque metal gate opens to reveal a garden of trim tropical flower beds flanked by even trimmer lawns, an infinity pool and the grand house itself, with its opposing staircases, wooden floors and delicate terracotta paintwork. Inside, the rooms feature an elegant hotchpotch of thick rugs, faux-antique chaise longue and other Where 757/1 Somdej Prapinklao ornate European-style furniture, plus free Wi-Fi and Soi 2, Bangyeekan, Bangkok, 02-883breakfast in bed (we recommend the Chao Phraya 2998; www.prayapalazzo.com Suite, not just for its size but also for the amazing river Price B5,000-B20,000 view from the bathtub). If you can tear yourself away from your room, head to Praya Dining (the in-house restaurant serving intriguing King Rama Vera Thai cuisine, as well as high-end Western dishes and a lavish afternoon tea set), the adjoining reading room, or the gallery featuring photos and captions that tell the mansion’s fascinating story. Indeed, it’s hard not to fall in love with Praya Palazzo’s sense of history. Even the sticking point – you need to catch the hotel’s private boat to come and go – becomes a selling point once you realise just how darn easy it is. Aside from the sense of detachment from the rat race it gives you, every time you start bobbing back towards this elegant oasis you really do feel like you’ve well and truly arrived.

พระยาพาลาซโซ สมเด็จพระปิ่นเกล้าซ. 2

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H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.109 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

Thai-massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

signature treatment

Herbal Ball Massage: Lavana Bangkok Though its labyrinthine layout may not bode well for an intimate rubdown, Lavana treats its guests right, beginning with a treatment form that asks you to highlight any injured or sore areas of your body. With an expansive menu spanning scrubs and facials to the unusual and intriguing Shirodhara oil treatment, Lavana’s signature is a local favourite done well – the herbal ball massage. After guiding you through the confusion of freshly scented corridors, Where 4, Sukhumvit Soi therapists firmly apply massage oil, 12 (map D3), 02-229-4510 paying particular attention to any problem areas you | www.lavanabangkok.com mentioned earlier. Compresses with a hot herbal ball, BTS Nana Price B850 or luk prakop, follow... but not just any old herbal ball. (90min), B950 (120min) Here they’re handmade in a workshop in one corner of the reception, a skilled staff member stuffing steamed lime leaves, lemon grass, ginger and lots of other earthy samun phrai (Thai herbs) into tightly bound cloth pouches in full view of anyone who ambles over. Having one gently pressed along the body meridians is thought to increase blood circulation, remove toxins from the muscles and address various conditions, including rheumatism. But aside from the health benefits, their scent is a stirring one that helps bring on serene dreams. Rooms are clean and fresh, and the B850 price-tag – for 90 seriously restful minutes – ever so reasonable. The herbal balls can be purchased along with other in-house spa products.

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bangkok 101

typical SPA cost range

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted

spas

Spa 1930

SIRI GIRIYA SPA (map E4) 4 Soi Sukhumvit 60 | BTS On Nut (free transfer from BTS available with advance reservation, hotel pick-up possible with group of at least 4) | 02741-5199 | www.sirigiriyaspa.com | 10am-10pm (last appt. at 8pm) | $$ Slipping into a steaming bath may be the last thing a traveler to hot and humid Bangkok may want to do – but then you’d be missing out on the joys of hydrotherapy, Siri Giriya style. Popular among Japanese, for whom bathing is an art, this homey spa is set just behind an elegant koi pond near the On Nut BTS station. Walk into the well-appointed room to find a tub overflowing with fresh Thai herbs – plai, turmeric, ginger, countless others – the smell is delicious. (You may be tempted to drink the water – just let your pores do that for you.) Maternal masseuses will scrub you, calibrate the temperature, even proffer up a tantalizing tamarind sorbet when the heat gets unbearable. Not everyone can handle this level of intimate pampering, but if you do, you come away with babysoft skin and that sweet, cool feeling of a detox well done.

สิริกิริยาสปา สุขุมวิท ซ.60

bangkok 101

SPA 1930 (map D3) 42 Soi Tonson | BTS Chit Lom | 02-2548606 | www.spa1930.com | 9:30am7:30pm | $$$ The Achingly cute fake-timbered heritage building, straight out of a Grimm’s fairy tale, houses a spa that is so popular it’s difficult to get a reservation. Maybe it’s been featured in too many Asian travel magazines? At any given time, Singaporean and Hong Kong Chinese await their treatment in the welcoming reception area (complete with a library), which feels so intimate that you’ll think you’ve entered a private residence. The list of treatments is very traditional – no fancy shmancy here, just good old spa classics. The signature treatments are excellent, but you might be tempted into a marvellous 4-Hands Massage or an Herbal Pack Treatment.The handful of packages is quite respectable, too. Efficient therapists work in softly lit, simply decorated rooms. A welcome surprise is the fact that no music is piped into the rooms so you can relax totally – or maybe nod off while listening to your own breathing.

ZENSE OF JOY (map C4) G Level, Liberty Square Building, Silom Rd. | BTS Saladaeng | 02-631-2200| www.zenseofjoy.com | Mon – Sat 9am – 11pm, Sun&Public Holiday 9am – 10pm |$$$$ You won’t find any mystical mumbo jumbo or mortar and pestle grinding at Zense of Joy. It’s cutting-edge all the way at this zen-sational spa for hi-sos, from the slick white minimalist, mall-like décor down to the topnotch treatments using Europe’s finest spa products. Think NARL slim fasts, a slimming treatment using radio frequencies to scare off cellulite, and facial treatments using caviar or collagen. Somewhat shrewdly, given it’s location beneath California Wow, a gym popular with mirror-loving metrosexuals, they also offer facials, body therapies and waxing for guys. Quietly gracious (or is it shy? – we weren’t quite sure) staff deliver expensive treatments (our collagen facial for men cost B6,500) in spick, innocuous rooms. And, as long as you’re not looking for a Thai massage with all the soulful trimmings, you won’t leave disappointed.

อาคารลิเบอร์ตี้สแควร์ ถ.สีลม

สปา 1930 ซ.ต้นสน ชิดลม

Zense of Joy

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H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-the-art equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems. The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

S Medical Spa

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ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified health & wellness

physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.

เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

Amruth Wellness Center (mapE4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient at this leafy garden townhouse gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a drop-in, dropout treatment, a yoga sesh or to embark on a life-changing panchakarma package. Stocked with medicines imported from the Subcontinent, holistic highlights include a hanging massage and the head oil-dribbling odyssey that is a shiro dhara.

อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8

BANGKOK MEDIPLEX (map E4) 2/70 Sukhumvit 42, Phrakanong | BTS Ekkamai | 02-713-5555 | www.bangkokmediplex.com | 9am – 8pm Visible from the Ekkamai Skytrain Station, this gleaming steel and glass fronted lifestyle mall comprises 35 leading healthcare centres and trendy medi-lifestyle stores. There’s a clinic offering live cell therapy (a treatment to repair weak cells), a traditional Chinese medicine centre, a chiropractic centre, top notch eye-care and Thailand’s first organic supermarket. Ample parking.

แบงคอก เมดิเพลกซ์ สุขมุ วิท 42

bangkok 101

edical tourism is huge business in Thailand; a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of others – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international trade. The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other. When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls. Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad, once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your private room, they have their own immigration department and

bangkok 101

a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your trip. You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications? Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul? And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa? These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment.

Skin Care

medical tourism Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International

33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com

FEATURED medical treatment

According to the old adage, beauty is only skin deep. And be it the blight of old age, smoking or Siam Swan too many hours lying in the sun, the number of people – and more men than ever before – paying attention to their skin condition is at an all time high. A stroll through any of Bangkok’s luxury shopping malls, where skincare centres are more prevalent than bookshops, reveals their popularity. And the variety of facial and body treatments is astounding. Thailand has stayed well on top of the latest international advances in dermatological and aesthetic skincare. The equipment and technology is state of- the-art: from high-tech laser therapy to non-laser treatments like microdermabrasion and more holistic forms of skin rejuvenation. The mission, it seems, is the same: optimise and revitalise the look and feel of your skin, improve firmness, or just lose those wrinkles, scars and blemishes to look younger, and healthier. On a par with Thailand’s other medical practices, skincare therapists here are well-trained – in many cases overseas. And their services come with a far more reasonable price tag than in the West. All this makes Bangkok an ideal place to indulge in matters of the skin. WHERE TO CARE FOR YOUR SKIN ■ Hydrohealth Centre | 4th Fl., Erawan Bangkok | 02-250-7800 | www.hydrohealth.co.th | Open 10am – 8pm | BTS Chitlom ■ Tria Integrative Wellness | 998 Rim Khlong Samsen Rd | 02-660-2602 | www.triaintegrativewellness.com | Open 10am – 8:30pm ■ S Medical Spa | 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg, Wireless Rd | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | Open 10am – 10:30pm | BTS Ploenchit ■ Siam Swan Clinic | Siam Square Soi 1 | 02-658-4884~6 | www.bangkoklaser.com | Open 10:30am - 6pm Mon-Sat ■ Apex Skin & Laser Centre | Emporium, Siam Paragon, Sukhumvit Soi 39 | Call centre 02-664-8817 | www.apexprofoundbeauty.com | Open 10am – 9pm ■ Romrawin Skin & Laser Clinic | Central Chidlom, Central World, Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 02-661-5255 | www.romrawin.com | Open 10am – 8pm health & wellness

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Sports

sports MASTER MUAY THAI! Many a champ started out punching mitts at one of Bangkok’s many muay Thai schools. Some are livein training camps, others geared towards drop-in sessions, but all will train you up and teach you how to deflect – and deliver – the basic moves, be it kick, jab, elbow, foot thrust or standing grapple. Beginners and female pugilists are welcome, though they often receive inordinate attention from the coming-of-age combatants. n Chacrit Muay Thai School Washington Square next to Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-260-5816 www.chacritmuaythaischool.com n Fairtex Muaythai RCA 149 3rd Fl. RCA Driving Range, Local Rd. | 02-203-1443 | www.muaythaifairtex.com n The International Muay Thai School 22/8 Moo 8, Soi 10, Pracharaj Sai1 Road, Bangsue | 02-585-6807 www.geocities.com/maimuangkorn/ eng_mai.htm n Muay Thai Institute 336/932 Prahonyothin 118 Vipravadee Road, Rangsit | 02-9920096-99 | www.muaythai-institute.net n Muaythai Sasiprapa 401 Soi Ladprao 130 Klongchan, Bangkapi | 02-378-0270 | www.muaythaisasiprapa.com

Muay Thai Institute

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THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

Fairtex

MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF, the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. spor ts

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.37) on any given day and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums.The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. bangkok 101

Active Sports AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex. The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in! BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK. bangkok 101

Major Bowl

CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand and its neighbours. ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Esplanade 4F | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more spor ts

like a nightclub on ice. Popular among youngsters, its 682m2 of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B900-2,400 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Centre (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with local ace Paradorn Srichaphan bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 113

Business

business In Bangkok on business? Rest assured it brings a lot to the table. Convention centres, ritzy hotels, world-class wine-and-dine spots... it’s little wonder it’s a regional hub for MICE (Meetings and Incentives, Conferences and Exhibitions), especially when you factor in the myriad down-time attractions. We dig up all the basics so that you don’t have to. Business Travellers Top on the list after you’ve touched down is, of course, a hotel.There are lots to choose from, in every location, but those that tick every business-traveller box include The Conrad, Sofitel Silom, Westin Grande and Sheraton Grande. Bangkok’s traffic has a justifiably miserable reputation, but having a car at your disposal can be handy. Try Limousine Thailand (www. limousinethailand.com). And if your hotel room isn’t cutting it as a makeshift office, then contact temporary office providers Regus (www.regus.co.th) or Servcorp (www.servcorp.net).

Business spotlight

There’s rarely a quiet moment on the local trade fair scene. For a rundown, see www.thaitradefair.com. Or perhaps you’re considering staging your company’s big meet or team get-away here? If so, talk to the Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (www.tceb.or.th). They say it’s who you know – not what you know. To get your face out there, join one of the networking events hosted by Bangkok Young Professionals (www.mobyelite.com/byp) or others. If you’re short on business cards – and you will be after a night at the aforementioned – try one of the many one-stopshops at MBK shopping mall. It’s also worth reading up on Thailand’s face-saving and, often quirky, business culture.Try Working with the Thais: A Guide to Managing in Thailand by Henry Holmes and Suchada Tangtongtavy (White Lotus, B495). Finally, note that any foreigner working, or doing business here, must have a non-immigrant B visa and a work permit. If your company hasn’t arranged both, go to www.immigration.go.th and find out what you need. Or contact a business solutions provider like Sunbelt Asia – they’ll do all the paperwork so that you don’t have to. Starting Up Frequently voted one of the world’s best cities, it’s no surprise that so many look to set up shop in Bangkok. However, bear in mind that although Thailand opened it doors wide to foreign investment after the Asian Financial Crisis of 1997, it can still be a tricky place to establish a business. The best advice is to find local experts to help you clear the regulatory hurdles. Business solutions provider Sunbelt Asia (www.sunbeltasia.com) offers everything from upfront legal advice to business brokerage and serviced offices. Similarly, Bangkok Base (www.bangkokbase.com) is a 360° provider of business support. Chambers of commerce can also offer advice and assistance in finding partners. There are also a few books on the market. One of the best is Philip Wylie’s How to Establish a Successful Business in Thailand. In it you will find the essentials on the minutiae of business in Thailand, from negotiating baffling bureaucracy and legal peculiarities to cultural codes and social etiquette.

The P&L CLUB

In addition to being a good deal closer, a successful businessman should also look the part and know how to unwind – in style.The P&L Club is a place where you can do both: a small gentlemen’s club where you can get a suave Cary Grant haircut before your meeting, and enjoy a well-earned puff on Havana’s finest afterwards. And in members-only privacy. Sit back in the Sweeney Todd-style leather chairs (from Japan of all places) and let the veteran 75-year-old barber Where Conrad Bangkok GF, give you the best hot towel shave you All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless ever had.Take your pick from the single Road, 02-685-3898 Open Monmalt whisky bar (all from Scotland, Thu 10am-10pm, Fri-Sat 10amnaturally). And while on your way to a 11pm, Sun noon-6pm leather chair in the tasting room, stop in at the Cohiba Humidor and pick up a Montecristo, Cohiba or some other chunky Cuban cigar. If you want in, there are three membership tiers available: a B20k membership gives you that amount on credit; spend B50k and you’re awarded an extra B5k; B100,000 an extra B20k. Members are allowed to bring guests (women, despite the decidedly masculine overtones, are welcome); and though there are opening hours, we’re told you can stay as late as you like.

รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

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Ideo Morph 38

Buying Property Many visitors decide they want to buy property in Bangkok: some because they fall in love with the city and all its eclectic idiosyncrasies; others because they jet in and out of the city on business and want more than a hotel room can offer. Whatever the reasons, buyers can find a wide range of accommodation at very favourable prices. From simple US$18,000 studio apartments to lavish million-dollar condos, there are options to suit most budgets. Non-Thai citizens looking to acquire property in the country will most probably be looking to purchase apartments rather than houses; as the law currently stands, foreigners are permitted to buy condos providing at least 51% of the building’s units are Thai-owned. Land (and therefore houses) is a different matter. Technically foreigners are not allowed to own land in Thailand, though if you are a foreigner married to a Thai citizen, then it is quite straightforward to draw everything up in your partner’s name. bangkok 101

real estate

Another method to acquire land is through a loan/lease agreement, whereby you loan money to a Thai citizen under a contract specifying they must use it to buy a property. Your Thai business partner will then buy the property and legally own the land. Simply put, you then get your lawyer to draw up an agreement giving you – the lender – a leasehold agreement on the property. However you decide to approach the acquisition of property, be sure to shop around and proceed with caution. Research the developers’ track record, the location, the average rate of return, and the likelihood of a super-skyscraper popping up and blocking that achingly beautiful view of the Chao Phraya River. Also, be aware that tales of relationships suddenly souring once deeds are signed are all too common. The best advice is to exercise common sense and find local experts you can trust. International brokerage firm Sunbelt Asia (www.property.th.com) has plenty of listings and English-speaking consultants on hand, while Property Report magazine (www.property-report.com) will give you a good overview of the whole scene. business

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Courses&Ser vices

courses

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi | 02-294-9029 | www.baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 116

(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02711-5270-3 | www.chivasomacademy. com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. The high but justified prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses available in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล อะคาเดมี

โมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well. Perfect for a serious, but short stint into Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

GOODWILL GROUP FOUNDATION

Bangkok’s streets are not so much paved with gold, as ridden with potentially life-wrecking pot-holes. Undereducated women from the country’s poorest provinces especially struggle to survive in what can be an indifferent city. Many have left school at an early age to support their families, and many are pressured or see no other option than to work in the sex industry. Education is the determining factor for those who seek dignified employment. And it is this that the Goodwill Group Foundation, established in 2000, specialises in. Women walking into their office on Ploenchit Road, looking to better their lot, may find themselves learning a new skill within days – be it English, Microsoft Office or something vocational. However, they don’t just throw skills at students and see what sticks – they also provide career training and job placement services. Roughly half of the 400 students enrolled work in Bangkok’s sex industry, and many struggle with the decision of whether or not to do so everyday. For these women, the Goodwill Group provides an alternative – a place for self-assessment and learning, and the hope of a brighter future. If you’d like to help, they are always in need of reliable, dedicated volunteers to teach English. The minimum commitment is 3 hours a week for 10 weeks (if you’re interested, stop by the office for an interview). They also businesses consider recruiting one of their students. Many are highly trained and eager to prove themselves (past students have gone on to become maids, receptionists, nannies, retail staff and web designers). Despite their low-cost, volunteer-based operating model, they are also in need of funding. Being a lean, efficient training machine means a small donation goes a long way to advancing their noble mission. Donations can be made by bank transfer to: Kasikorn Bangkok, Wireless Road branch Account number: 7092-308418 Swift code: TFBSTHBK Contact: Contact: Goodwill Group Foundation, 25/9 Soi Sukhumvit 16, Sukhumvit Road, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110 Tel: 02-258-9346-9 www.goodwillbangkok.org goodwill@goodwillbangkok.org

bangkok 101

cour ses & ser vices

117

Reference

survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words. Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement). The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then. Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you? I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

118

sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná ˘ thôt kho khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669 LOST CREDIT CARD CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) MasterCard 02-260-8572 Visa 02-273-1199 or 02-273-7449 MEDICAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHONE SERVICES Bangkok Directory Inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 International Long Distance 100 Overseas Subscribers Call 001 TOURISM OFFICES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist Information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-282- 9773, 02-2505500 | daily 8:30am- 4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02- 250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www. bangkoktourist.com IMMIGRATION DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am- 4pm EMBASSIES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02344-6300 | www.austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place 15F, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.bangkokinternational.gc.ca bangkok 101

Cambodia 185 Ratchadamri Rd | 02957-5851-2 | RECBKK@hotmail.com China 57 Ratchadaphisek Rd, Din Daeng | 02-245-7043/4 | www.chinaembassy.or.th India 46 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02258- 0300/5 | www.indianembassy. gov.in/bangkok Indonesia 600-602 Phetchaburi Rd | 02-252-3135/40 Japan 177 Wireless Rd | 02-696-3000, 02-207-8500 | www.th.emb-japan.go.jp Laos 520, 502/1-3 Wang Thonglang Rd | 02-539-6667 | www.bkklaoembassy.com Malaysia 33-35 South Sathorn Rd | 026296800 | ww.kin.gov.my/perwakilan/ bangkok Myanmar 132 North Sathorn Rd | 02233-2237, 02-234-4698, 02-234-4789 | mebkk@asianet.co.th New Zealand M Thai Tower, 14F All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu Rd | 02-254-2530 | www.nzembassy.com Philippines 760 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-259-0139/40 | www.philembassybangkok.net Singapore 129 South Sathorn Rd | 02-286-2111 United Kingdom 1031 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-8333 | www.ukinthailand. fco.gov.uk U.S.A. 120-122 Witthayu Rd | 02205-4000; www.usa.or.th/embassy Vietnam 83/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-251-5836 TRANSPORT PLANE Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Airport Call Centre 02-132-1888 Bangkok Airways 02-265-5555 | www.bangkokair.com Air Asia Suvarnabhumi International Airport A1-062 FG, Concourse A | 02-5159999 | www.airasia.com Thai Airways Int’l Suvarnabhumi International Airport F4, Row F | 02-356-1111 | www.thaiair.com TRAIN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 reference

contacts

Hua Lamphong

SKYTRAIN/SUBWAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-612-2444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BUS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mor Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai)

Surfing BKK There’s a million websites out there, all desperate for a good quick click – but these are the only ones we would take home to meet our mum. n www.1stopbangkok.com Everything you wanted to know about Bangkok but were afraid to ask. n www.thaivisa.com General, boring, immigration type stuff and an entertaining messageboard. n www.bangkokartmap.com Find out where the pretty pictures and free wine’s at. n www.paknamweb.com Blogs, blogs and more blogs. Everything from the Thai lottery to sizzling streetfood. n www.movieseer.com Popcorn? Check. Emergency sweater? Check. Showtimes? Check here! 119

Reference

getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options.

also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the public taxi queue outside the terminal, a B50 surcharge is added to the metered fare. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers. MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle 120

taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-23 Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS reference

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.24) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance. Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3. CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B8 to B18. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. bangkok 101

101

all you can eat

featured

buffet Citi Bistro

This buffet restaurant benefits from its oh-so-easy to reach location, hanging smugly behind the cavernous shopping hub that is MBK, drawing in not only hotel guests but lines of hungry shoppers. Citi Bistro is sleek and modern; a bright fluorescent walkway leads you to the scene of your impending deeds of gluttony. With a blend of international choices nothing is left out, from sashimi, roasts, DIY salads and various Asian WHERE Pathumwan and Western dishes. The buffet counters form Princess Hotel, 1st Fl (adj. a fort surrounding an open-plan live kitchen to MBK) BTS National where you can admire the chefs hustling to Stadium, 02-216-3700, knock out fresh dishes. A wide selection of www.pprincess.com meats and seafood are available and cooked to OPEN 11:30-2:30pm, 6pmorder, along with fresh homemade pasta and 10:30pm PRICE lunch curries. The spread tries to emphasize unique 550net, dinner1,090 net presentations with cold appetizers in miniature martini glasses and little spoons; the satay chicken and peanut sauce in a shot glass are tempting just to look at, and the skewered meats are, uniquely, served up cold. Buffet: B550nett for lunch and B1,090nett for dinner.

รร.ปทุมวันปริ๊นเซส ติดกับห้างมาบุญครอง

bangkok 101

food & drinks