Bangkok 101 - September 2008 by Talisman Media

bangkok 101

september 2008 100 baht

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HighSociety Photographs

Manit Sriwan ichpoo

Very Thai: POODLE BUSHES Day Trip: RATCHABURI The Natural Guide: KOH TAO Upcountry Escape: UDON THANI Over the Border: SINGAPORE Making Merit: PLANT-A-TREE-TODAY

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HISTORY & CULTURE ■ SIGHTSEEING & EXCURSIONS ■ DINING & NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING ■ SPAS ■ LISTINGS ■ EVENTS CALENDAR ■ CITY MAPS & MORE

publisher’s

letter

september 2008

As I write, sheets of rain lash the windows of 101 HQ. Soi dogs jog uncertainly for cover. People scuttle beneath wind-tattered brollies. But fear not, September in Bangkok won’t be all doom and thunder-clapping gloom – as this month’s issue makes stridently clear. For starters, the rainy weather means Bangkok’s one-of-a-kind topiary – the sculpted shrubs and bushes profiled in this month’s Very Thai – should be well fed. Similarly, now’s the perfect time to plant a tree in Thailand: precisely the carbon-footprint shrinking act we profile in our Making Merit section. Moreover, there’s also a lot of indoors-y activity on the horizon, as outlined in our Now in Bangkok section (pp.12-13). Culture vultures have the Bangkok Film Festival 2008 and the International Festival of Dance and Music (including that pirouetting crowd-pleaser The Nutcracker). Gastronomes can eat to excess, courtesy of Michelinstarred master chefs, at the World Gourmet Festival. And, as detailed in Now in Bangkok, sports-fans can enjoy the Thailand Tennis Open. Otherwise, just sit back and enjoy our city-guide pleasures… Plan your Upcountry Escape with our close-up of Northeastern province Udon Thani, location of one of the most important prehistoric settlements in Southeast Asia. Or line up a Daytrip to nearby Ratchaburi, home to one very over-rated floating market but dozens more winsome alternatives. Finally, slink into the gilded opulence of this month’s photo feature ‘High-Society’ by Thai lens master Manit Sriwanichpoom. These Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom portraits present Bangkok’s high-society posing, Hellostyle, in their insanely lavish homes. This is a different Manit to the one famed for his pictorial polemics on local politics and social issues. Or is it? As applies to so much of what’s on offer in this month’s Bangkok 101 – you decide.

Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher & Editorial Director

Thai Traditional Long Boat Race, Ayutthaya

What i1s01? Bangkok Bangkok 101 catersthey

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contributors MANIT SRIWANICHPOOM Manit Sriwanichpoom is one of Thailand’s leading photographers and its best known in the international art world. His solo shows include ‘Bangkok in Pink’ at the Yokohama Museum of Art (Japan); ‘Pink Man in Paradise’ at Monash University (Australia) and Valentine Willie Fine Art (Malaysia); ‘Repertoire of the Innermost’ at the Plum Blossom Gallery (Singapore); and ‘Beijing Pink’ at the Highland Gallery (China). His works are held by the Maison européenne de la photographie (Paris), the Fukuoka Asian Art Museum (Japan), the Singapore Art Museum and private collectors. In 2002, he was named one of the world’s 100 most interesting emerging photographers by Phaidon Press in their book BLINK. In 2007 he was awarded the Higashikawa Overseas Photographer Prize. www.rama9art.org

Noy Thrupkaew

Steven Pettifor British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Noy is a U.S. journalist and former Pew fellow in International Journalism and Fulbright fellow in contemporary Thai cinema. She writes frequently on international politics and culture. Noy has reported from Cuba, Iran, Morocco, Japan, and Cambodia, among other countries; for outlets including The Guardian, Marie Claire, Ms. and The American Prospect, where she is a senior correspondent.

Philip Cornwel-Smith VeryThai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its ﬁrst listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s ﬁrst mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness: Thailand and international magazines.

Joel Quenby Joel started out in London as a wannabe music hack, blagging his way backstage, being snubbed by Spice Girls and scared witless by Kelis. He seemed to spawn a guilty penchant for inane pop culture commentary, and has since made the leap to the embattled frontlines of consumer lifestyle publishing, ﬁlm musing and advertising copywriting. He’s aware that this is not particularly big or clever, but continues nonetheless.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and ﬁlm programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Cheryl Tseng An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular ﬁxture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia.com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher & Editorial Director Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Deputy Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Mike Atkins Editorial Assistants Piyakwan Mettaprasert Tippicha Chumsaeng Art Director Yuthtaya Sangnak Strategist Nathinee Chen Sage Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Frances Doherty Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,TAT Director of Marketing Vareeporn Arunsuratpakdee Account Executive Jarinya Chaiyasit Administrative Assistants Peeraya Nuchkuar Distributor Jaruwan Janvisitsak Adul Waengmol Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com Printed by Allied Printers T: 02-240-3700 © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2008. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

contents

table of

september 2008

snapshots 10 12 14 16 17 18 19

101 picks now in bangkok events calendar history religion customs very thai: poodle bushes

sightseeing

20 28 29 30 32 33 34 36 38 39 40 42 44

suggested itineraries historic buildings palaces temples museums the great outdoors river tourism day tripping featured day trip: ratchaburi upcountry festivals featured escape: udon thani the natural guide: koh tao over the border: singapore

arts 46 47 48

54 56 57

contemporary art galleries photo feature: high society performing arts cinema reading & screening

40 On the cover: Darunee Kritboonyalaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fortune is based on many businesses, including Oishi, a sushi chain and green tea drink producer. Darunee has transformed her notoriety into acting roles. The talented dame of the hi-sos has appeared in many soap operas and movies. Photo by: Manit Sriwanichpoom

“

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minutes away from Chaweng, this luxury and spacious beachfront resort offers the perfect escape for couples, families and friends travelling together. Stunning

40 architecture combined with the resorts concept of “choice” makes this escape holiday truly memorable

”

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contents

table of

food & drinks 58 60 61 62 63 66 71 73 74 75 76 77 78

september 2008

sports

shopping

114 spectator sports 115 active sports

96 stuff 98 shopping tours 100 mall crawl 102 markets

dining in bangkok thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants chic bangkok dinner cruises brunching tea late dining sweet treats all you can eat wine

courses & services

accommodation

104 one room & boutique hotel

health & wellness 108 110 112 113

body & beauty spas medical tourism wellness centres

116 cooking, meditation & thai massage courses 117 making merit: plant a tree today reference 118 survival thai 119 contacts 120 getting around

104

110

117

nightlife 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94

one night in bangkok nightclubs hotel nightclubs bars bars with a view hotel jazz clubs live music pub crawling

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101 picks

Before dashing off to a tropical island or the mountains, scratch beneath the city’s gritty surface to discover gems that’ll keep you here longer. We’ve compiled our Bangkok favourites here.

one night in bangkok

shopping

thai style

food heaven

open air

■ Chatuchak It’s a sweaty affair, but a market must on weekends – ogle stuff you didn’t even know was for sale (p.102)

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.117)

■ Beautiful Brunches What else are Sundays for? Indulge at any five-star hotel. Smaller places are great, too (p. 73)

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a big zoo & Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous greenery (p.33)

■ Bars & Clubs Get in amongst Bangkok’s legendar y nightlife (pp.80-95)

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar Downtown mini-Chatuchak, just cleaner, hipper, open daily & less hot (p.102)

■ Thai Massage Passive torture or sheer bliss, you gotta try it once (p.108)

■ Food Courts Thai food 101, the safe (and air-conditioned) way (p.62)

■ On the River Take an express boat up to Nonthaburi, rent a long-tail boat or do a dinner cruise (p.34)

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar Munich’s Oktoberfest goes Thai and throws in some major shopping (p.102)

■ MBK & Siam Square Cell phone heaven meets nifty young Thai designers (p.98)

■ Thai Cooking Classes Your culinary chance to advance on the phad thai cliché (p.116)

■ Dining Cruises The setting won’t get any better; also available for lunch (p.71)

■ Cycling Tour Discover the green amid Bangkok’s chaos, and you might consider moving here (p.115)

■ Shows Traditional Thai dance or tranny cabaret – it’s up to you (p.55)

■ Patpong A bustling street bazaar incongruously sandwiched between neon-lit gogo bars (p.102)

■ Thai Boxing The brutal, quintessentially Thai form of kickboxing (p.114)

■ Meal Deals Fancy a cheap gourmet chow-down? (p.59)

■ Ancient City Rent a bike and see all of Thailand in half a day in smog-free surroundings (p.37)

■ High Attitude Bars Shell out for the great views and cool breezes (p.98)

■ Panthip Plaza Get lost in a mega-mall paradise for computer junkies! (p.24)

■ TCDC Cool, creative learning space for Thai designers (p.22)

■ Street Food We dare you! Timid souls opt for fantastic, fresh fruit (p.62)

■ Lumphini Park The Central Park of the tropics (p.33)

■ Dining Cruises Slothful full-board sightseeing (p.71)

■ River City Antiques galore – expect top quality, not bargain basement (p.100)

■ Jim Thompson House & Silk Shop Commune with one of Bangkok’s favourite spooks (pp.28; 96)

■ Affordable Gourmet Eat top-notch French, Italian and more for the price of a N.Y. martini (p.64)

■ Flower Market Close your eyes and inhale deeply (p.103)

■ Carnivalesque Par ty with the backpacker crowd on Khao San Rd or Thai hipsters on RCA (pp.86; 91)

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bangkok 101

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now in bangkok

BANGKOK’S 10TH INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF DANCE AND MUSIC

23 – 30 SEPTEMBER BANGKOK FILM FESTIVAL

For years Thai cinema has been winning plaudits thanks to a clutch of artsy auteurs and their offbeat, genrebending crowd-pleasers. Nostalgia-saturated cowboy movie ‘Tears of the Black Tiger’ and Palme d’or winner, ‘Tropical Malady’ are just two among many (and highly recommended, incidentally). Unfortunately though – due to poor promotion, aloof film selections, even corruption scandals – Bangkok’s cinefests haven’t made quite the same waves. Hopefully, though, this will change with this year’s Bangkok Film Festival, due to be held from September 23-30 at CentralWorld’s SF Cinema Complex. As we go to press details are sketchy, but there are expected to be more than 80 movies in competition this year. As well as the main Grand Prize, Special Jury Prize and Special Mention awards, there will be categories dedicated solely to films from the region, documentaries and innovative filmmakers. However, you’ll find Bangkok 101 hogging the front row of the Thai Panorama section. After a slow couple of years in Thai arthouse land – not helped by creativity stifling domestic censorship – we hope to see some fresh new talent to shake up the vapid horror, jingoistic historical epic and blockbuster-dominated Thai multiplexes. See www.bangkokfilm.org for announcements. 12

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Schlocky Thai dances, tongue-in-cheek ladyboy cabarets, half-empty rock concerts... These are the mainstays of performing arts in Bangkok. Fortunately for the past 9 years this cultural void has been filled by the Bangkok International Festival of Dance and Music, held from 15 September - 13 October at the Thailand Cultural Centre. This year’s festival – with its unashamedly high-minded run of operas, ballets, symphony orchestras, contemporary ballets and jazz performances – promises to be the best yet. From the opener Requiem (15 September), a concert by the Russian Symphony Orchestra in memory of Princess Galyani, through to the graceful pirouetting of the crowd-pleasing, Tchaikovsky-scored ballet The Nutcracker (20-21 September), you can expect a programme of top-notch, cross-cultural spectacles by some of the world’s best conductors, musicians and dancers. Other highlights set to satisfy your inner aesthete, and attract the city’s arts cognoscenti in droves, include performances of Guiseppe Verdi’s four-act opera Aida (16 Sept & 18 Sept); and Introdans (27 Sept), a kind of new-wave ballet from the Netherlands, that melds classical elements with contemporary dance techniques. For more information and to book tickets log onto www. bangkokfestivals.com

bangkok 101

ATP THAILAND OPEN 2008

So, you thought those fit, supple, bronzed tennis players can only be seen bouncing around the courts of grandslam tennis tournaments, right? Wrong! Bangkok has its very own, and while it isn’t quite up there with strawberries and cream at Wimbledon, the ATP Thailand Open is credible enough to draw top flight players like world No 3 Novak Djokovic, Marat Safin and, of course, lofty Thai superstar Paradorn Srichaphan (see opposite). Will Paradorn be able to put 18 months of injury behind him with a return to form at his home tournament? Can last year’s surprise doubles winners, Sonchat and Sanchai Ratiwatana, successfully defend their title? To find out, hook yourself up with tickets for the event, held at BEC-Tero between 21-28 September. Prices start at just B300. Call 02-262-3456 or log on to www.thailandopen.org

THE 9th ANNUAL WORLD GOURMET FESTIVAL

Hide those scales, loosen those belts, tuck in those serviettes: for one week only – 22-28 September – seven of the world’s biggest culinary stars are descending upon Bangkok’s Four Seasons Hotel for a gastronomic orgy of outstanding food and superb wines. Gourmands will find this opportunity hard to pass up – chefs from as far away as Mexico City and Reykjavik will be on hand to divulge hard-won tips on how to create outstanding gourmet grub. While each chef will host two evenings at one of the hotel’s stellar restaurants, diners can catch all the chefs at once at the seven-course Gala Dinner on Friday 26 Sept.This will be crowned by a live auction showcasing sister Four Seasons hotels worldwide, a portion of proceeds going to the ‘Save a Child’s Life from AIDS Project’. For a ticket to this year’s parade of gastronomic excess, contact the hotel directly (02-250-1000 or wgf. bangkok@fourseasons.com). But act quickly – these tickets can vanish faster than a tray of hors d’oeuvre. (See p.59) bangkok 101

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events calendar

4-7 September

The 13th Discovery Thailand 2008 & Discovery World 2008

Pack your suitcase, don your sombrero – this year’s Discovery Thailand & Discovery World promises a one-stop shop for domestic and outbound dream holiday packages at great discounts. Held at the QSNCC, there will be 1,000 plus travel agent, hotel and hip hideaway booths (opening hours 10am to 9pm).

7 September

Run for Children

Setting off from Suan Luang, this 10km mini-marathon will raise funds for UNICEF and their Pan-Asian child immunization projects. Take it seriously – i.e. win – and you’ll bag a night’s stay in the hotel organising it: the Royal Orchid Sheraton & Towers. Registration, available on the day, costs B300. Call 02-266-0123 for more.

September 10

George Benson & Al Jarreau Live in Bangkok

The sly, seductive rhythm and blues of guitarist George Benson meld with the expressive vocal tones of five-time Grammy winner, Al Jarreau. You only have one night, at the Queen Sirikit Convention Centre’s Plenary Hall, to catch this dynamic duo. Tickets B1,000–5,000 through www.thaiticketmajor.com 14

12 -13 September

Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana

Sung in Latin it may be, but Carl Orff ’s dramatic, ear-deafening-climax choral piece is as accessible as classical music gets. The Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra and more than 220 crooners will blow the roof off Mahidol University’s auditorium with two performances. Tickets cost between B300-500 (B100 for students). Book at www.thailandphil.com or 02-800-2525-30 ext. 154.

Until 14 September 12th Thai Short Film and Video Festival

Scratch your short, independent film itch with a visit to this long-running, Thai talent-nurturing cinefest. Joining the array of homegrown shorts this year will be exclusive foreign efforts and documentaries. Ok, so not all films will have English subtitles but it will be a great chance to scope out the venue: the brand new Bangkok Art and Culture Centre at Pathumwan Junction (opposite MBK shopping mall). For more details call 02-8002716 or email the organizers at thaishortfilmfestival@gmail.com.

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Until September 14 KEEPING UP – Modern Thai Architecture

Catch the tail-end of this exhibition profiling how a new breed of Bangkok architects grappled with modernism between 1967 and 1987. The stories behind the buildings that resulted – emblems of post-WWII optimism like the futuristic Science Museum – offer fascinating insight into Thailand’s knack for co-opting foreign influences. See p.22 for more on the Thailand Creative Design Centre.

bangkok 101

22 – 22 September 9th Annual World Gourmet Festival

Take eight Michelin-starred chefs. Mix with one Four Seasons Hotel. Result: a gourmet food festival of orgiastic proportions. Don’t miss. Go to page 59 for more.

28 September

Banyan Tree’s 10th Vertical Marathon

27 September Ken Ishii

September 24 Paul Anka

Once a ‘50s American teen idol. Today a celebrated songwriter and contemporary torchbearer for all that swings. You have to admire Paul Anka. For this one-off helping at IMPACT’s Royal Jubilee Ballroom, expect everything from renditions of ‘My Way’ to a radical reworking of The Killers’ noughties rock anthem ‘Mr Brightside’. No really. Tickets B3,000B5,500, www.thaiticketmajor.com

Bangkok has hip-hop aplenty; Thai pop galore. But how about avantgarde dance music – all garbled beats, vocal snippets, ambient aural textures – that sounds like its being played by an army of rhythmically gifted robots? Don’t miss, at Club Culture, this rare chance to catch Japanese DJ icon Ken Ishii and his unique twist on techno; www.club-culture.bkk.com for more.

TRADE FAIR VENUES

29 September

A Pipe Organ Recital by Alessandro Bianchi

Bangkok. Pipe organ recital. Not things you often mention in the same breath. But then it’s not every day that the Christ Church, on Silom’s Soi Convent Road, books Alessandro Bianchi, organist of the Basilica di S. Paolo in Cantu, Italy. A student of the famous (in organist circles) Piacenza Conservatoire, tonight’s repertoire will seem him perform Baroque works by Bach, Verdi and Rossini, among others. Joining him will be guest soprano Monique Klongtruadroke and baritone Mongkol Chayasirisobhon. Admission is by donation. Call 081-6828000. bangkok 101

In a thunder of footsteps, fitness enthusiasts, charity supporters and masochistic members of the public will be returning to Banyan Tree Bangkok for the 10th Vertical Marathon. The race’s finishing point is the award-winning Vertigo restaurant on the 61st floor, one of the highest al fresco restaurants in Asia. A registration fee of 350 baht per person includes the official marathon t-shirt and a meal box. Parachutes not included.

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EXHIBITION PERFORMANCE CHARITY/SPORT TRADE FAIR OTHER

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history

Grand Palace

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok. Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status. During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit. The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion. Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents. Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lots of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the Sathorn/Silom

districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas and leafy public parks. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. These gradually-expanding public transpor tation networks, with their

bright, snaking trains carrying wideeyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped relieve the city’s notorious traffic congestion and pollution, but given this City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ but instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It is no surprise that The Guinness Book of Records registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

he majority of Thais (over 90 %) are Theravada Buddhists, with the rest of the population split between Muslims, Christians, Sikhs and Hindus. Older animist beliefs also remain, practised alongside a version of the Buddhism that originated with the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha, in India around the 6th century BC. Theravada Buddhism is based on the concepts of dukkha (suffering), anicca (impermanence and transience), and anatta (im“making merit” – donating permanence of the self) to the poor or a temple, or Thai Buddhist – suffering arises through handing out rice to monks monks once attachment to imperduring their morning almsdyed their manent conditions. By gathering processions. own robes working to extinguish Nearly all Thai Buddhist with colour attachment through men will become monks, extracted meditation and proper if only for a short time. from turmeric conduct, Buddhist pracWomen cannot be orand the titioners can eventually heartwood and dained but some become attain spiritual enlightennuns, although their numleaves from jackfruit trees; bers remain low. Contrary ment (nirvana), freeing now most them from cycles of reto Western perceptions robes come birth. A soul is reborn of Buddhism as a religion chemically according to its progress above the fray of everyday dyed. (or lack of it) towards life, monks and nuns have nirvana, with animals launched HIV-education and forming lower strata and monks oc- drug-prevention campaigns, orphancupying the top. The Buddha himself ages, and other social programmes. took 550 lives to become enlight- More controversially, a number of ened (mural paintings in Thai temples monks have begun advocating that often depict tales of his former lives, Buddhism should be enshrined in the called jataka), so most Thais focus new constitution as Thailand’s state on attaining a better rebirth through religion.

Did you know?

bangkok 101

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religion

For more information on Buddhism and meditation courses, check out the World Fellowship of Buddhists at www.wfb-hq.org and the international homepage of Vipassana meditation centres at www.dhamma.org.

Spirit houses Hand in hand with their Buddhist faith, Thais still hold many animist beliefs. Spirit worship is widely practised and spirit houses can be seen on the corner of most residential and commercial properties. By providing the spirits (good and evil) with shelter, it’s hoped that they will protect houses or buildings from any harm or mischief. To make sure the spirits are kept happy, offerings of incense, fruit, flowers or rice are made every day. 17

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customs

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations. In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king with deep reverence for the monarchy. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family. Therefore, stand quietly when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and other public places.

Did you know?

Everyday has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting. Thais don’t usually shake hands but rather wai (a prayer-like gesture with hands clasped in front of the face). This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows respect and humility.The higher the hands are raised, the more respect is being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (cool-hearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. 18

raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’. Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”). Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand. snapshots

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ don’t step on the threshold ■ don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ be considerate when taking photographs ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth bangkok 101

very thai Philip Cornwel-Smith

POODle BuSHeS Fanciful topiary

Photographs by John Goss & Philip Cornwel-Smith

From the urban Thai jungle of dusty shrubs, hacked branches, and plants kept more for luck or scent than visual harmony, suddenly out pops a meticulously coiffed tree. Mai dut (cut trees) stand apart from other potted plants, not just in artistry and order, but sheer whimsy. Inspired by Chinese miniature gardens and Japanese bonsai, twist-trunked mai dut developed abstract globes of manicured foliage with a playful, poodle-like profile. Just as Thai rock gardens are styled after mythology, mai dut looks like no earthly tree. Dwarfed to anywhere between three inches and three metres (the bigger ones grown in the ground rather than in pots), the trunks and branches must undergo repeated breaks to achieve the angular ‘elbow’ look. To improve the chances, connoisseurs train several trees at once. Once the subject of beauty contests among aristocrats, mai dut fi ts best in a formal context: courtyards, temples, mansions, palaces. But it crops up anywhere from shophouse to office desks. Making mai dut into street décor, however, usually backfires, because they soon become straggly. The trimming skills are too scarce. And expensive – a good tree costs many thousands of baht. Some prefer topiary as a toy. Cute topiary caricatures of an animal, bird or person arrived from the West at the same time as the technique of guiding branches along wires, which is now being applied to mai dut. Hence the outbreak of foliated elephants herding across hotel lawns and planted peacocks preening their leaves in parks.

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. for page after colourful page, author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. from the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt each month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic. Snap up a copy at any good book shop. Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith bangkok 101

snapshots

Sightseeing

suggested itinerary

rATTANAKOsiN

Chakri Maha Prasat

hether your stay in bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

If you’re looking to maximise sightseeing, head for rattanakosin, an artificial island that lies alongside the Chao Phraya River and has the highest density of ‘must see’ tourist destinations in Bangkok. First stop is Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn. Despite the name, it doesn’t open until 8:30am, so there’s no need to get up too early. If you are staying at the Oriental, Shangri-La or another hotel on the river, just head for the water. Otherwise, grab the opportunity to ride Bangkok’s excellent Skytrain – follow the signs for Saphan Taksin and disembark at the final stop. Once at the river, jump on an express boat. (Regular riders can tell you which boat is an express) As you face the river, you want to be go-

ing right, upriver. Get off at Tha Tien pier, then catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its spire aglow, is easy to spot. When you are finished here, simply cross the river again to visit the granddaddy of all sights: the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Since by now you’ll have

sightseeing

worked up an appetite, head south for a few minutes on Maharat Road to a highly-recommended restaurant called The deck. It has great views of the river, and is conveniently close to another world-famous temple, Wat Po, renowned for its classical Thai massage school. Following lunch, see the reclining buddha here and have your muscles thoroughly de-knotted. Once relaxed, head nor th once more. Pass the Grand Palace and on your left you will find the National Museum and the National Theatre. Depending on your body and foot fatigue, you will probably find it is early evening. A good place to unwind and have a drink or a meal is at one of the numerous eateries near the fort along Phra Athit road. The rest of your evening is up to you – Bangkok has plenty of options. Have a beer with the backpackers on Khao san road, take in a Muay Thai (Thai boxing) match at nearby ratchadamnoen stadium, or head back down the river or into the city for cocktails, dinner or a stroll around the suan Lum Night bazaar. For full descriptions of the above sites, see pages 28, 29, 90 & 114. bangkok 101

Freebies

■ Witness the fish feeding frenzy at Tha Pra Nok, Tha Thewet and Wang Lang river piers. See inside back cover map. ■ Ride the cross-river public ferries on the Chao Phraya (okay, so it costs B3). See inside back cover map.

Sometimes the best things in life are free, or nearly so. Experience some of the real Bangkok and save your baht for that extra foot massage. ■ Observe prayer rituals and traditional Thai dancing at the Erawan Shrine. See p.31 ■ Take a stroll, have a picnic, or get some exercise in Lumphini Park. See p.33 ■ Visit the Thailand Creative & Design Center for great exhibits and lectures. See p. 22 ■ Catch a free movie at one of Bangkok’s foreign cultural centres. See p.54

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sightseeing

Sightseeing

suggested itinerary

sUKHUMViT

nce a suburban backwater dominated by a stretch of rice fields, sukhumvit has evolved into the residential destination of choice for aspirational Thais and the expats who work with them. As a result, it has developed its own ‘village culture’ – marked by twee cafés, achingly hip boutiques and a veritable nation of day spas. in other words, when temple and museum-weariness set in, sukhumvit could very well offer the perfect antidote.

Agalico

Divana Divine

Shades of retro

Emporium

Get a quick jump on the day and loosen up with a morning jog around the lake in benjakitti Park. Located adjacent to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, which hosts world class expos weekly (see calendar pp.14-15), it is easily accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. Now you’re probably hungry, so exit the park via the north end gates. Walk towards Sukhumvit and you will find Crêpes and Co. nestled away in a quiet soi, where they serve an excellent all-day brunch (see p.73). For a quick shot of culture, nothing beats a jaunt to Asok road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross) to the siam society (see also Baan Khamthieng, p.28), an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures and exhibitions. After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain and off to Phrom Phong station. Here you will find the cultural epicentre of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, emporium. While you can easily get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, world-class designers and up-andcoming Thai labels here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and design Center sightseeing

(TCdC) on the 6th floor which continually stages thought-provoking, and usually free, exhibitions. And even better yet, TCDC is a short escalator ride away from the food floor, a United Nations of culinary possibilities. If your back is aching from scrutinising all that art, why not hit the spa? Down Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo) is divana divine, very popular with expats. A different (perhaps more radical) option for those in need of some detoxing: the hydrotherapy colonic at rasayana retreat on Sukhumvit 39, which costs B2,650 and takes about 45 minutes. After your treatment, you can refuel with a smoothie at Rasayana’s “living foods” café or take a short cab or tuk-tuk ride down to Sukhumvit Soi 51, and turn at the first right you see. Here stands Agalico (see detail p.78), an all-white tea lounge situated in a lush garden. Only open weekends, it’s a hidden sanctuary for Bangkokians looking for a good cuppa and some fresh air. Crêpes and Co

bangkok 101

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Shopaholics can probe Thong Lo further, staking out the neighbourhood for designer clothing, jewellery and books. Hop on over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice of neon Tokyo and watch as beautiful people and their even prettier cars roll in. Once dinnertime rolls around, head immediately around the corner to “Japan Town” in Thong Lo Soi 13, where a clutch of Japanese restaurants catering to local expats lurks; Uomasa, in the unmissable wooden Nihomura

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compound, is particularly recommended for sashimi lovers. Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, the night time is definitely the right time. People craving a drink and some conversation need look no further than antique store/café shades of retro, where the ambience is very laid-back. Alternately, if you still have some room for dessert, don’t even hesitate and head immediately to Coffee beans by dao on Ekkamai (Sukhumvit 63). Located on the ground floor of a condominium, the cheesecakes at this local hi-so favourite are out of this world. After satisfying your sugar intake, those looking to make a very Thai night of it (coke and whiskey, a Thai live band, mini-skirted girls) can head to the jam- packed and ironically-named Nang Len, which means “to sit around” in Thai. However you’d probably win the lottery before you find a seat here on the weekends. sightseeing

Coffee Beans by Dao

Sightseeing

suggested itinerary

PATHUMWAN

siAM ANd PrATUNAM

Central Chidlom

Jim Thompson’s House

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the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride. Get on a boat heading west and get off at Jim Thompson’s House (see p. 28). Jim Thompson’s House is Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination after the Grand Palace (see p. 31). It is a wonderful place to wander around and perhaps indulge at the café. After all this walking, a sit-down is probably in order. Central World Asia’s largest “lifestyle shopping complex” houses scores of great restaurants and a fantastic cinema complex, where you can treat yourself to a ‘luxury cinema’ screening (see p.56).

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Soaring above the skyline is the baiyoke Tower, which provides a wonderful 360-degree panoramic view of Bangkok and offers the perfect opportunity for a snack. Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind. Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction. Turn south to where you previously crossed

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he Pratunam and Siam Square districts are famed as a shopper’s paradise. From the chaos of the shop-4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MbK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. Hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed. Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the erawan shrine is renowned for bringing good luck. Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the canal (khlong) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 98), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand. Once you have had your fill of clothes shopping, continue up the road.

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bangkok 101

Sightseeing

suggested itinerary

siLOM & sATHOrN Silom Village

he sathorn/silom area personifies bangkok’s split personality. The white collar, bustling crux of bangkok’s business world by day, this whirlwind area houses a grab bag of cultural and religious sites. but when night falls this area hustles, gyrates, and rears a very different head. Home to a large chunk of bangkok’s corporate world, this area spilling with yuppies and bigwigs during the day, kicks it up a gear after office hours, with a jiving scene of clubs, expat pubs, some very shady characters, and one oh-so-slightly notorious little lane. Kukrit’s House

Lumphini Boxing Stadium

Set the alarm and beat the sun to the punch; there’s much to be done today. Skip the hotel breakfast and head out early for a more localised experience. Take the MRT to the Sam Yan stop. Here you will find an oldlooking shop house called Jok sam Yan. A legendary Thai institution for over four decades selling only one item, Jok Moo, or Rice Congee with pork. It’s immensely popular but they close at 8am, so come early! Walk towards Silom and take a venomous venture into the snake Farm (see p. 33) and watch wranglers extract poison from serpents, and if you dare you can even pet a cobra or kiss a python! If you’re still alive, continue on your earlier path and shop for some sumptuous silk items at Jim Thompson’s flagship store on Surawong Road. Once you have all your ties and linens, take a nice stroll in Lumphini, Bangkok’s largest public park. If it’s the weekend take a taxi into the past with former P.M. Kukrit’s heritage house. (see p. 28) Go back down tree-lined Convent Road, known as Bangkok’s French quarter for its cluster of French cafés, butcher shop and a bakery, La boulange, where you can have a light lunch or grab a freshly baked baguette. Another option is the silver Palace snapshots

restaurant in Silom Soi 3 for some excellent dim sum. After filling up follow the throngs of office workers into soi Lalai sup (The Soi that melts your assets), squeezing through the chaos, hunt down bargains on clothes, gifts and other knick-knack paddy wacks. Farther down Silom on Thanon Pan, you will come across Wat Mahamariamman. Referred to by locals as Wat Kaek, it is the most famous Hindu temple in Bangkok and rituals are performed here daily at noon. Right across the street is Kathmandu Gallery (see p.47) featuring great photo exhibits, and also silom Village which is a nice spot to pick up some handicrafts. Go through Chong Nonsi and look for Sathorn Soi 12. Loosen up with a massage at Health Land spa, originally an organic health food store and vegetarian restaurant, it’s now a full yfledged spa centre. This experience is about to pick up speed. Cab it to Lumphini National boxing stadium (see p.114) around the corner, which will guarantee adrenaline rushes, as young men kick and punch the hell out of each other. For something less violent, suan Lum Night bazaar (see p. 102), a pricier but less sweaty version of Chatuchak is just seconds away. Seafood restaurants abound here and the Joe Louis Puppet Theater (see p.54) is great for a cultural show. There’s also a great beer garden. Once it’s nice and dark, head up to the top floor of the Banyan Tree and ascend the aptly titled Moon bar at Vertigo (see p. 89). 200 metres above the pavement this bar’s main attraction bangkok 101

Vertigo

clubs in silom soi 4 will suffice. If you’re gay, look no further than samesex central, silom soi 2. And if you’re feeling frisky and don’t mind being harassed by aggressive touts, immerse yourself in the decadent not-sounderworld that is soi Patpong. Be careful around here and do not follow strangers offering you free shows. But don’t hold back, because whatever you choose to do in this part of town at this time, you’re most likely to wake up with no recollection of it. Refer to our Brunch section p.73 for some good cures.

is the completely unobstructed 360° Bangkok panorama. Do not stray too far over the railing as the only thing to break your fall here is the concrete sidewalk. Once you’ve soaked it all in, or if your knees are shaking, descend back to street level. The night is still far too young. For some rowdy (and raunchy) times back to silom you go. There’s still some shopping to be done here as many street vendors are just starting their day selling trinkets, antiques, clothes, and the ever-present dodgy DVDs. Piracy guaranteed! If you’re looking for something a bit Suan Lum Night Baza ar more hip, the bars and

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M. r. KUKriT’s HOUse (map C4, #20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 02-286-8185 | Sat-Sun, holidays 10am-5pm, weekdays by appt. only | adults B50, Kids B20. BTS Chong Nonsi Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen in the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail, is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture.

JiM THOMPsON’s HOUse (map C3, #16) | 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 under 25) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American business- s i g h tบs าeนหม e i n อg มราชวงศ คึกฤทธิ์ man largely responsible for the global 19 ซ. พระพินิจ ถ. สาทรใต popularity of hand woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden bAAN KHAMTHieNG beside a pungent canal, this complex (map d3, #21) 131 Sukhumvit Soi 21 | of six traditional teak houses from 02-661-6471~7 | www.siam-society.org around the country is testament to Tues-Sat 9am-5pm | adults B100 | his commitment to maintaining and students B50. celebrating regional art and culture. BTS Asok MRT Each brims with art pieces and antiques Sukhumvit. rescued from around Asia: everything Baan Khamthieng is from limestone Buddha torsos to a an antique wooden cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour house from the guides discuss these exquisite treasures north which was painstakingly rebuilt and the much-mythologised life of the in Bangkok. It serves as a museum for man they affectionately call Mr. Jim the Siam Society, an organisation which Thompson. There’s also a shop selling documents and preserves traditional his trademark silk designs, an art gallery Thai culture. It’s a neat place to view and a small café. gardens, ancient Thai manuscripts, maps and art. บานไทย จิมทอมปสัน

6 ซ. เกษมสันต 2 ถ. พระราม 1

บานคำเทีย่ ง 131 สุขมุ วิท (อโศก) ซ. 21

ViMANMeK MANsiON (map b2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569, 02-628-6300~9 daily 9am-4pm | B100 | dress properly The stately Vimanmek Mansion is the world’s largest teakwood building. This masterpiece was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang in 1868 and then moved piece by piece to Bangkok where it was used by Rama V as his residence. Its 81 rooms are spread over three floors, which overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of Rama V’s possessions collected from international trips, are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom. Other valuable artefacts on display include period antique photographs, fine porcelain, gold and silverware, and superb glassware. Behind the main building, a smaller museum houses a good selection of exquisite Thai handicrafts sponsored by Queen Sirikit’s SUPPORT charity foundation. Converted from the stables, which once housed the king’s albino elephants, the Chang Ton Royal Elephant Museum sports a collection of historical pachyderm paraphernalia. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. If you time your visit right, make it a point to stick around for free traditional Thai dance performances (at 10:30am and 2pm) outside the mansion.

พระทีน่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ. ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ

JIM THOMPSON:THE MAN BEHIND THE MYSTErY

Jim Thompson

Check this out for a CV: a Princeton graduate and former Us intelligence officer turns bangkok socialite, Thai silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s stranger-than-fiction life trajectory makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the luminous sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial verve and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner). Today he’s a brand gone global. You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in countries as far-flung as Argentina and Australia, and read a slew of gossipy autobiographies peddling conspiratorial myths that only seal the legend. but it’s perhaps at ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them. sightseeing

bangkok 101

palaces

Wang Suan Pakkard

THe GrANd PALACe (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B250 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress properly Despite your being able to visit many stunning sights on the Grand Palace grounds, including the incredible Wat Phra Kaew – or Temple of the Emerald Buddha (see. p.33), most of the actual palace is off-limits. As the king has moved his residence to Chitralada Palace in northern Bangkok, the Grand Palace is now only used for major ceremonies or royal functions. Its exterior – an interesting blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth a look and there are a couple of staterooms and halls that are open to visitors. These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the king still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum. Multilingual tour guides can be hired here.

พระบรมมหาราชวัง ถ. หนาพระลาน ใกลทองสนามหลวง

PHAYA THAi PALACe (map C3) King Mongkut Hospital | Ratchwithi Rd BTS Victory Monument | Mon-Fri 8:30am- 4:30pm | free Built in 1909, Phaya Thai Palace was a cottage to which Rama V could escape at weekends. It later housed a r adio station, before the whole place was turned into a hospital. The only structure remaining is the Thewaratsaparom Throne Hall, a stunning glassand-wood building that was mostly used as a theatre. The rooms inside are built and decorated in western styles, complete with French doors, a grand staircase, a fireplace and an elaborately carved ceiling. Since the palace is on the King Mongkut Hospital grounds, the banyan trees next to the building are used for shade by the staff, but the palace’s interior is open to visitors. This is a quiet, secluded place for a breather.

พระราชวังพญาไท โรงพยาบาลพระมงกุฏ ถ. ราชวิถี

WANG sUAN PAKKArd (map C3, #15) Sri Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | 02-245-4934| daily 9am-4pm | B100 A former market garden, this was c o nve r t e d i n t o a residence and garden by Pr incess Chumbot of Nakhon Sawan. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion, which depicts scenes from the Buddha’s life and the Ramayana.

วังสวนผักกาด ถ. ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี

ANANTA sAMAKHOM PALACe Throne Hall (map b2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | daily 8:30am-4pm | B20 Previously the parliament building, this stately palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. It is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session but other sessions are held at the new parliament nearby.The interior was influenced by renaissance architecture and the dome is decorated with detailed frescoes of royal ceremonies and festivities.

พระทีน่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ. อูท องใน ดุสติ

Beware! Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being ‘befriended’ by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a personalised shopping tour for jewelry. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how ofﬁcial they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed for any seemingly logical reason, you are most likely being set up. Our advice is to politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during ofﬁcial opening hours). If you’ve experienced any such scams in Bangkok, please e-mail us so that we can continue to advise fellow travellers. bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

temples

WAT sAKeT (map b3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | daily 7:30am-5:30pm| B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offer s great views of Chinatown to the south and the old city to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ. จักรพรรดิพงษ

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | daily 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-centur y centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an impor tant university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions. Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ทาพระจันทร สนามหลวง

WAT sUTHAT and THe GiANT sWiNG (map A-b3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-222-9632 | daily 9am-5pm | B20 surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of buddhist supply shops in bangkok, Wat suthat is one of the most important buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art and a 14th-century sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน ถ. บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงขามเสาชิงชา

WAT bOWONNiWeT ViHArA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu 02-281-2831-3 | daily, all day long | free Home to the respected Maha Makut Buddhist U n i v e r s i t y, t h i s temple is particularly impor tant to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ. พระสุเมรุ sightseeing

The Giant Swing

WAT beNCHAMA bOPHiT (map b2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-628-7947 | daily 8am-6pm B20 This white Italian C ar r ar a mar ble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings.

วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ. พระราม 5

WAT rATCHANATdA (map b3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-224-8807 | daily 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good for tune.

วัดราชนัดดา ถ. มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TrAiMiT (map b3, #13) 661 Hualampong, Charoen Krung Rd, 02-623-1226 | daily 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

bangkok 101

Wat Arun

WAT PHrA KAeW – Temple of the emerald buddha (map A3, #9) Na Phra Lan Rd |02-222-0094, 02222-6889 | daily 8:30 am-3:30pm | B250 includes access to Grand Palace and Vimanmek Mansion | dress properly The home to Thailand’s most sacred relic – the Emerald Buddha – and the country’s most stunning temple, Wat Phra Kaew was completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, and forms the northeastern corner of the Grand Palace complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434 when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the stone beneath. It was then moved around northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings before being taken by the Lao to Vientiane. Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and brought it back to Thailand where he placed it at the centre of his new capital. It is the most sacred Buddha image in Thailand, and hundreds pay their respects to it every day. Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the majesty of the temple, Wat Phra Kaew also features excellent examples of mural art, documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic.

WAT PO – reclining buddha (map A3, #11) Chetuphon/Thaiwong Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | daily 8am-noon, 1-5pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45-metre-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-ofpearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ. เชตุพน

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ. อรุณอัมรินทร ผั่งตะวันตกของแมน้ำเจาพระยา

erAWAN sHriNe (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | daily 6:30am- 10:30pm | free | BTS Chit Lom Apart from the many temples across the city, there is a far greater number of small shrines where Thais pay their respects to various deities and spirits. don’t expect serenity here. This is one of bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god brahma and his elephant erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which performs for a nominal fee.

วัดพระแกว ถ. หนาพระลาน ใกลทองสนามหลวง

bangkok 101

WAT ArUN Temple of dawn (map A3, #12) Arun Amarin Rd | 02-465-5640 | www.watarun.org | daily 8am-5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun or the Temple of the dawn, one of the city’s important religious sites. before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the emerald buddha was temporarily housed here. The fivetowered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by rama i on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ. ราชดำริ

sightseeing

Sightseeing

museums THe NATiONAL MUseUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang| 02-224-1333 | www.thailandmuseum. com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B40 Previously a palace dur ing the reign of R a ma V, t h e National Museum features extensive displays of T hai ar tefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) which start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑสถานแหงชาติ ถ. เจาฟา ใกลทอ งสนามหลวง

MUseUM OF COUNTerFeiT GOOds (map C3) 64 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | 02-263-7700 | www.tillekeandgibbins.com | by appointment only | BTS Chit Lom Condemn it or not, forger y is a huge draw for some. In 1989, the law firm Tilleke & Gibbins decided to convert collected fake goods into educational tools for law students. An entertaining site – fromToblerone chocolate bars to bellybutton rings, from anti-malarial tablets to fake MSG – 1,500 pieces are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals. Call for an appointment and please don’t use it as means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong later that day.

ติลลิกี แอนด กิบบินส พิพธิ ภัณฑสนิ คา ปลอมและเลียนแบบ ซ. ตนสน ถ. เพลินจิต

THe erAWAN MUseUM 99/9 Sukhumvit Rd (entering Samut Prakhan) | www.erawan-museum. com | daily 8am-5pm | adults B150, children B50 Outside the city, in a garden of Naga sculptures and other fabled Thai beings, you’ll find this simply unmissable building. Constructed in the shape of a monstrous three-headed elephant named Airavata, it would be a marvel to look at even if it didn’t house ancient artifacts within. Built by the owners of the Ancient City, it is divided into three “worlds”: Underworld contains antiquities like Chakri dynasty tea sets; Earth is a technicolour hall embellished with religious iconography and stained glass; and inside the elephant’s belly is Heaven, a concave space lined with standing Buddhas and abstract murals. The building is also a site of worship. Rumour has it that a Thai girl prayed here before buying what turned out to be a winning lottery ticket!

พิพิธภัณฑชางเอราวัณ ซ. วัดไตรสามัคคี ถ. สุขุมวิท

CHiLdreN’s disCOVerY MUseUM (map C1) Queen Sirikit Park Kamphaeng Petch 4 Rd | 02-6186509 | www. bkkchildrenmuseum. com | Mon-Fri 9am11am, Sat-Sun 10am6pm | adults B70, children B50 Near the Chatuchak weekend market, this interactive museum aimed at younger guests covers science, nature and the environment. It also hosts regular courses and activity camps.

พิพิธภัณฑเด็กกรุงเทพมหานคร สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจาสิริกิติ์ ถ. กำแพงเพชร 4 ตรงขามสวนจตุจักร sightseeing

rOYAL bArGe MUseUM (map A3, #5) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | daily 9am-5pm | B30 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians. Beautifully and ornately decorated, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

พิพิธภัณฑเรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร

MUseUM OF siAM 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02622-2599 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | free admission Just a few blocks from the Grand Palace, this new Children’s museum is located inside the historic Ministry of Commerce building. Italian architect Mario Tamagno designed the solid three stories, E-shaped Renaissance style building in 1921, inside of which is a series of interactive, animated, theme park-like exhibitions exploring the history of the Siamese people. For adult viewers making sense of each room might be confusing: topics unexpectedly jump from ethnicity to religion to ancient folklore. Kids though will find this an entertaining learning experience, and love playing with the vibrant touch screens.

มิวเซียมสยาม สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ การเรียนรูแหงชาติ ถ. สนามไชย พระนคร bangkok 101

FLOrA rAMA iX rOYAL PArK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 |5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features.

สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103 (หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร) ประเวศ

CHATUCHAK and QUeeN siriKiT PArKs (map C-d1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | daily 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจา สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจักร

QUeeN sAOVAbHA MeMOriAL iNsTiTUTe snake Farm (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.20 | Mon-Fri 8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 8:30am-noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B70 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public. The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite. There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom.

สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู) ถ. พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

FAUNA dUsiT ZOO (map b2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | daily 8am-6pm| adults B30, kids B5 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around.

the great outdoors

Siam Ocean World

cational 25-minute tour of the 2.8 million litre Oceanarium in a glassbottomed boat. You can even dive with sharks, supervised by instructors from Planet Scuba (www.sharkdive. org). Or opt to watch the penguin or shark feeding (twice daily), or for the Magical Mermaid Show (three times a day).

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

สวนสัตวดสุ ติ 71 ถ. พระราม 5

LUMPHiNi PArK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free The inner city’s largest stretch of green, this public park is busy as soon as the sun rises. in the early morning hours and again around sunset, bangkokians of every lilk take advantage of the relative cool to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin.

สวนลุมพินี เขาไดทาง ถ.พระราม 4 ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

bangkok 101

sightseeing

Sightseeing

river tourism

ntil the beginning of the 20th century bangkok was devoid of asphalt roads and commerce was conducted by boat on the Chao Phraya river and its canals. The completion of the Taksin bridge in the 1990s signalled the end of tall ships sailing into bangkok. Nowadays the river is still an integral part of city life and travelling along it is highly recommended. Not only can you shrink journey times between the city centre and major sights, it’s a relaxing and fun way of getting around. Boats sail past many of the city’s great temples, markets and historic buildings. All manner of craft ply the river’s waters. High-speed river taxis connect a network of piers along both banks; long-tailed boats take visitors on colourful khlong tours of the city’s canals; converted rice barges ferry guests to riverside hotels and tugs pull heavily laden barges. bANGKOK eNVirONs A great way to enjoy the river is to hire a long-tailed boat to explore the

network of the city’s interconnecting boats near BTS Saphan Taksin station canals. Bangkok is at its greenest and are one easy way to get a taste of most peaceful here, and it’s a relief river travel. Better yet, check out one to escape the stifling traffic for a few of the neat lunch or dinner cruises listed below. hours. Along the river’s main artery are many of Bangkok’s top hotels: The Ori- AYUTTHAYA ental, shangri-La, Peninsula, sheraton Okay, it’s a cliché, but leaving the highand Hilton, as well as colonial architec- rise skyline of Bangkok for the ruins ture like the former headquarters of of the ancient capital of Ayutthaya is like a journey into the the Asiatic Trading past. Pass by the suburCompany. river Cruises ban waterways until the Most cruises pass ■ APsArA bANYAN skyline of spires, stupas Wat Arun before Tree bANGKOK 02-679and minarets diminish leaving the open river 1200 www.banyantree.com ■ CHAO PHrAYA in favour of greener enfor the khlongs of CrUise 02-541-5599 virons. Ayutthaya boat bangkok Noi and www.chaophrayacruise.com excur sions are highly bang Kruay. You can ■ GrANd PeArL recommended. Most day hire long-tailed boats CrUise 02-861-0255 trips (the Grand Pearl at the Oriental Pier www.grandpearlcruise.com Cruise is popular) go one for around B400 per ■ HOriZON CrUise way by boat and the othhour. A cheaper op02-266-8165~6 er by bus. Overnighting? tion is to jump on a www.shangri-la.com The intimate Manohra river taxi; scheduled ■ riVer sUN CrUise Song and Manohra Dream, stops are highlighted 02-266-9125~6 www.riversuncruise.co.th converted rice barges, ofon the map inside ■ MANOHrA CrUises fer splendid 3-day cruises, the back cover. Free 02-477-0770 while the Mekhala runs riverside hotel shuttle www.manohracruises.com 2-day trips. ■ MeKHALA 02-253-6992 www.mekhalacruise.com

Mekhala

Chao Phraya

sightseeing

KOH Kred On the way to Ayutthaya, this small river island is home to a Mon community renowned for the quality of their ceramics.There are some interesting Buddhist artefacts on Koh Kred and with no cars on the island, the pace of life is far removed from the bustle of the city. Best by long-tailed boat during the week or on weekends by Chao Phraya express. bangkok 101

Sightseeing

day tripping

t ’s e a s y g e t t i n g a r o u n d i n Thailand, and there are plentiful wor thwile excursions within e a s y re ac h of b ang kok ; so me one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent. AYUTTHAYA The capital of Thailand from the 14th to the 18th centuries it was one of the richest cities in the East during its heyday, but after it was attacked by the Burmese in 1767, most of the city was destroyed. It was then deserted when the capital was relocated to Bangkok and the ruins left to be overtaken by nature. However, over the past 30 years the remnants of the city have been renovated into a UNESCO historical park, which, at 85kms from Bangkok, makes an ideal daytrip from the city. The best way to get to Ayutthaya is by the river and there are trips available for every budget. The major riverside hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City. Once at Ayutthaya, hire a bike and see the highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit, Wat Na Phra Meru, Wat Phra Mahathat and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. LOPbUri Those inspired by the ruins of Ayutthaya can continue the experience in Lopburi, which features ruins from a period spanning over 1,000 years. During

FLOATING MARKETS Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore. The experience depends largely on which market you choose. ■ dAMNOeN sAdUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 15-30 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang. GeTTiNG THere By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 434-5558). ■ TALiNG CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries. Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday, Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly.

the Dvaravati period (6th-11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo but traces were wiped out by the Khmers, who took over the region during Angkor’s heyday in the 10th century. The Thais subsequently took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. During the reign of King Narai in the 1600s, the city was for a time the country’s second capital when he fortified the city in response to the Dutch navy threatening Ayutthaya. King Narai built a palace in the city, the remnants of which survive to this day and are open to the public. In sightseeing

GeTTiNG THere By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-424-5448 or 02424-1712). ■ AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season. GeTTiNG THere By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram. The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram.

addition, the surrounding countryside offers a number of crumbling wats, in a mixture of Khmer and Thai styles. bANG PA-iN sUMMer PALACe Highway 32, 60kms north of Bangkok, Baanlen, Bang Pa-In | 035-26-1044 | daily 8am-4pm | B100 A former Royal retreat, the Royal Palace here is a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly bangkok 101

MUANG BORAN (Ancient City) 296/1 Old Sukhumvit Rd Km 33, Samut Prakan | 02-709-1644-5 | daily 8am-5pm | B300 adults, B200 children Only have a day to see the whole country? The Ancient City was made for you. This museum park, designed in the shape of Thailand, features model representations of its historical buildings, temples and architectural heritage. Renting a bicycle is recommended as the park is fairly large and takes a full day to view properly. Should you want to watch some animal gymnastics before returning to Bangkok, the Samut Prakan Crocodile Farm offers daily crocodile wrestling or elephant shows.

NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120-metre-high chedi, the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century stupa. Situated around 55kms west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in the Kingdom, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history. On the chedi grounds, a small museum displays some interesting Buddhist artefacts and a small shop stocks various related paraphernalia. KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film Bridge on the River Kwai, this town is a popular weekend getaway, offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreign visitors are attracted by the area’s history – the Thai Burma ´Death´ Railway, built by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II, was notorious due to its high casualty count and seemingly impossible route. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The 120-minute trip offers spectacular scenery and the chance to marvel at the extreme difficulties of its construction.

The countryside around Kanchanaburi is also stunning and home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with the nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking opportunities. KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Home to wild elephants, deer, boar, and tigers, as well as uncountable species of birdlife, this enormous forest is one of the world’s best national parks. Visitors can hike through the jungle to altitudes of over 1,000 metres. It’s best to hire a guide as it’s easy to get lost - the park is over 2,000 square kilometres in size, and local maps are not to be completely trusted. NAKHON RATCHASIMA One of Thailand’s silk weaving centres and an important trade hub, this is the country’s largest province and host to Korat, its second-largest city. The surrounding countryside has a fine collection of ancient Khmer ruins, left over from the Angkor period. Of these, worth a visit are Prasat Phanomwan, Prang Ban Ku, Prang Sida and Prasat Hin Phimai, the largest of these ruins and recently restored.

NEARBY BEACHES No time to jet down to Koh Samui or Phuket? A handful of beach resorts and islands close to Bangkok are perfect for much-needed respite. ■ PATTAYA/JOMTIEN Most famous for its seedy nightlife, Pattaya’s been trying – well, sort of – to re-establish itself as a family destination. Hundreds of hotels and eateries ensure competitive prices; sister town Jomtien is still a better option. bangkok 101

Hua Hin

■ KOH CHANG A large jungle-clad hilly gem that’s been found by the deluxe hotel industry. Spending the night in hammocks is impossible, but fantastic beaches are still here. Ferry or fly here via Trat. ■ KOH SAMET A retreat for hip Thai youngsters who invade the island to spend days swimming in clear waters and nights playing the guitar on super-clean beaches.

■ HUA HIN/CHA-AM The royal summer residence town receives hordes of Thai families and package tourists. The long beach is satisfying, and is dotted with plenty of topnotch resorts like Chiva Som, the Evason, Hyatt Regency, Hilton and more. The piers filled with seafood restaurants are more of an attraction, as is the addictive night market. Nearby Cha-am is Hua Hin’s smaller, less developed sister.

sightseeing

Photo courtesy of Tourism Authority of Thailand TAT

reflecting Rama V’s love for Western styles. Bang Pa-In was initially used as a retreat during the Ayutthaya period but was somewhat forgotten when the capital moved south to Bangkok. However it became popular again as travel became easier from Bangkok and King Mongkut (Rama IV) built himself a residence here. Apart from the contrasting architecture of the palace and its beautiful lake and garden, there’s not much of interest to warrant a full day’s visit so many combine the palace with a trip to nearby Ayutthaya.

Sightseeing

day trip

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

rATCHAbUri

Photography by TAT

“Have you seen the floating market yet?” goes a common conversation between fellow travellers visiting Bangkok. Not far behind is usually an abrupt “Don’t bother”. Fortunately, Rathaburi Province’s most hokey attraction – the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market – is not without merit. Look hard and, amidst endless tourist tat, you’ll find many of the things it’s famous for: big brown ceramic jars with mythical dragons emblazoned around the outside, handmade musical instruments, rolled banana for the journey home. ‘The Land of the Kings’ has so much more to offer. And you don’t need to board a heaving tourist bus to see it. Why not hire a mini-van with driver for the day? No, really: It’s cheaper and easier than you think. Do so and you’ll have travelled the 80 kilometres from Bangkok and be out there enjoying caves, waterfalls, temples and art communities – the good stuff – in no time. Begin by hitting a hot stream like bo Khloung, which flows from the Tanao Sri Mountain Range bordering Burma. Popular with those after 100% au natural skin therapy, here you can take a fortifying dip before heading off to nearby Kaew Chan – a cascading nine-level waterfall that’s especially dramatic now while water levels are high. Another popular stop-off is Ratchaburi’s dark, dank caves. Chalk mountain Khao Ngu has one of the most famous: Tham ruesi Khao Ngu with its Buddha reliefs sculpted on the walls.Two more are located beside the road which cuts through Khao Chaong Phran, a hill 17km north of Ratchaburi town: Tham rhra Non, with its more than 100 Buddha images, and Tham Khangkhao, more colloquially known as the ‘Bat Cave’. No this is not a tricked

out lair belonging to Bruce Wayne, but Khanon. Here, Nang Yai puppetry the home of some three million bats. is performed for visitors. If you are As the sun sets at around 6pm each new to this evocative, dying artform night they disperse en masse in search – where the silhouettes of ornate of food, making the hill resemble a cowhide puppets, acting out ancient volcano disgorging thick black smoke. plays are projected onto fabric screens Even more beautifully strange though – then visit the attached museum. Still desperate to scratch your is Khao bin Cave, 22 kilometres from Ratchaburi city centre. Inside floating market itch? By all means it lurks an eerie, 300 do so, for the affected metre deep world snapshots if nothing of stalagmite and else. Avoid the tourist stalactite formations, tat though, and hunt out including one in the the things Ratchaburi is famous for: big shape of a majestic brown ceramic jars giant eagle with its wings outspread. with mythical dragons Too much down- Suan Silp Baan Din emblazoned around to-earth, not enough the outside, handmade high-brow? Those seeking arts can musical instruments, or some rolled find solace at suan silp baan din, an banana for the journey home. arts community nestled peacefully in a mango tree orchard. Run by ■ WAT KHANON NANG YAi Manop Meejamrat (a highly respected MUseUM (puppet show every choreographer from Bangkok’s Saturday 10am, museum 8am-5pm Patravadi Theatre), here you can everyday) | 032-233-386 enjoy performances of old Thai arts, ■ sUAN siLP bAAN diN ArTs dance, literature and music. Or make CeNTre | 032-397-668 a weekend of it and stay and engage in artistic workshops and classes or create your own artwork. There are also several interesting temples in Ratchaburi, including the venerable Wat Na Phra That, with its beautiful prang (pagoda) headily redolent of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. However, the most appealing for foreign visitors is probably Wat Wat Khanon Nang Yai sightseeing

bangkok 101

upcountry festivals

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up. This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of bangkok. instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

8-21 Sept Asian Cartoon exhibition

29 Sept – 7 Oct Phuket Vegetarian Festival

Celebrated over nine days each year by the large ThaiChinese community inhabiting the island, this is not your typical Vegetarian festival. The participants will observe a strictly vegetarian diet during the festival to purify their bodies and their souls. Accompanied by deafening fire crackers that can be heard from all corners, a series of street processions will be held throughout the festival. Where things get a little dicey, are in the sacred rituals performed by the devotees like walking barefoot on hot coals or ascending ladders with knives as rungs. It is believed that the true devotees cannot be harmed because they are protected by holy spirits.

This will be the eleventh and final year of this event, which uses art and cartoons to help promote a better understanding of Asian cultures, societies, and people. This year’s exhibition will centre around the theme “Asian Youth Culture”, and will feature works from cartoonists hailing from ten Asian nations. The cartoons will focus on globalization and the effect it has on Asian youths. The exhibition initially opened at the Japan Foundation’s Art Space here in Bangkok but will move to Nakhon Ratchasima’s Rajabhat University this month.

13-14 Sept Thailand international swan boat races

27 Sept -1Oct Um Phra dam Nam

It’s easy to see that Buddhism is an important part of Thailand. The same can be said about rivers, which have been an indispensable part of life for many communities throughout the country’s history. The Diving Buddha Festival, a unique event in the province of Phetchabun unites these two elements. Visitors can expect spectacular processions, cultural performances, and the highlight and namesake of the event, the submersion of a Buddha image in the Pah Sak River by the governor of Phetchabun. bangkok 101

Now in its 21st year, the Swan Boat and Long Boat Races celebrate an ancient Thai tradition. This event calls upon competitors from all over the world to race in this annual event. The swan boats feature 22 paddlers while the long boats will be powered along by 55 paddlers.The race takes place in front of the Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Centre, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya.

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19 – 20 Sept Koh si Chang 100th anniversary

King RamaV,the 19th century modernizer King, used to come to the small Ko Si Chang island in Chonburi province, to relax. He built, among other things, the all-teak Vimanmek Palace here (which is today located in Bangkok).This two-day festival will celebrate his birthday and the centenary of his development of the island with music shows, traditional dress competitions, religious rites and performances of Ligay dance.Traditional dress is compulsory but available for purchase (cheaply) at the entrance. 39

Sightseeing

upcountry escape Udon Thani

or most time-strapped travellers the northeastern province of Udon Thani, is little more than a scenic blur of rice fields, forests and hills they pass at speed on their way to or from the Laos capital Vientiane. Covering an area of 11,730 square kilometres, it is well-worth slowing down for a day or two. Silk, rice and the gregarious Isaan people count among Udon Thani’s many charms. The region is perhaps most famous for its architectural wonders, paramount among them the hamlet of Ban Chiang, where the world’s first Bronze Age civilization is believed to have flourished. UNESCO calls this “the most important prehistoric settlement so far discovered in Southeast Asia.”

What to See Located 50kms east of the boomtown of Udon Thani (along Highway 22) are the excavations pits that led to sleepy Ban Chiang being designated a World Heritage Site back in 1992. Many of the skull, pottery and bronze fragments are thought to be as much as 5,000 years old – and archaeologists believe the designs found on Ban Chiang earthenware to be the oldest prehistoric pot designs in the world. You can see these and much more at the excellent Ban Chiang National Museum (Wed – Sun, 9am until 4pm). Well annotated in English, the first part is indoors and showcases the earliest evidence of farming and use of metals in the region, everything from pottery to spearheads and sickles; the second part is an open museum found in the compound of Wat Po Si Nai, site of the original excavation. Here, thanks to the Fine Arts Department’s well-conceived planning, you can peer inside the excavation pits to see how red earthenware pots and other items were buried along with the dead. Also along Highway 22 is Ban Kham Or, one of several villages where pottery, made according to these ancient designs, is available to buy. Equally curious, prehistoric-y delights await at Ban Phue district’s Phu Phra Bat Historical Park, 42 kilometres northwest of UdonThani town. A popular pilgrimage for local Isaan folk, here you can hike along well-maintained trails, stopping to walk right up to Bronze Age cave paintings, bizarre geological formations, sandstone baisema (leaf-shaped stones marking the limits of a Buddhist temple) and Buddhist shrines and religious buildings chiselled into rock. Other excursions can be enjoyed at Phu Foi Lom, an eco-park swarming with rare plants and animals located on a hill about 60 kilometres southwest of Udon Thani town. And further west, near the village of Ban Hong Phu Thawng (Route 210) is a pleasant uphill excursion in the shape of Tham Erawan: a large

Photography by TAT

Phu Phra Bat

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bangkok 101

Ban Chiang National Museum

Gecko Villa

Getting There Road From Bangkok, take Highway No.1 to Saraburi and Highway No.2 to Udon Thani via Nakhon Ratchasima and Khon Kaen Provinces. The total distance is 564 kilometers. Public Transport Four trains leave Bangkok’s Hualampong Railway Station daily for Udon Thani (contact 02-2237010 for details). Buses for the Northeastern province leave from Bangkok’s Northern Bus Terminal (call 02-936-2852 or visit www. transport.co.th). Thai Airways and Thai Air Asia also offer daily flights (visit www.thaiairways.com or www. airasia.com). cave high up the side of a limestone mountain containing a huge seated Buddha gazing out over the plains. If you like silk then Ban Na Kha Village is also worth the 16km drive north of town (Highway 2), on account of its famous khit pattern fabrics, a diamond-shaped design commonly used for mats, blankets and shawls. Udon Thani city boomed during the Vietnam war, when it became a support centre for a nearby American airbase. Despite the withdrawal of American troop in 1976, it has continued to grow as a commercial and agricultural hub for the northeast’s rice-producing Isaan region. It isn’t a city to write home about – but it bangkok 101

does offer cheap digs, transport and modern comforts, as well as decent crafts shops. You can also find car rental places, opposite the city’s Udon Hotel, offering sedans, jeeps and vans for rates of around B1,200 daily. What’s worth seeing? Try the Guardian Spirit Shrine in Thung Si Muang park; and the Nong Prajok reservoir on the northwest corner of town, where many locals like to exercise and unwind. For something offbeat head to Udorn Sunshine: in addition to its fragrant perfumes, this orchid nursery is famous for producing a species that actually dances (see www.udorn-sunshine. com for proof!). sightseeing

Where to Stay Approximately 20 kilometres southeast of town, Gecko Villa offers a back-to-nature escape in the form of a traditionally-styled, luxury pool villa surrounded by rice paddies and fruit orchards. Activities include rice planting and harvesting, buffalo rides and learning to cook local Isaan specialties like som tam (spicy papaya salad). 081-918-0500 | www. geckovilla.com Nakabhuri Hotel offers 44 rooms, 12 executive villas, and a large swimming pool in a naturally rustic setting, 15 minutes drive from town. 042-218280 | www.nakhaburi.com 41

Sightseeing

the natural guide

KOH TAO

Renowned for its crystal clear waters, thriving sea bed and competive prices, Koh Tao attracts thousands of diving enthusiasts each year. Formerly a hideout for pirates and a refuge for fishermen, Turtle Island started as a tourist destination in 1899 with the visit of King Rama V. Today, the island has changed dramatically, with bungalows, restaurants and small hotels dotting the boulder-strewn shoreline. DIVING Koh Tao is the most popular diving spot for beginners in Southeast Asia. And no wonder. The low depth dive sites – ranging from 3m to 40m, with low to moderate currents and excellent visibility – are ideal for novices. The diversity of marine life is also astounding. Stony seafloors have resulted in spectacular coral reefs encircling the island. Divers can expect to see everything from tiny parrot fish to barracudas, manta rays and even, if you’re very lucky, whale sharks. There are around 34 dive centres on the island, all charging very competitive prices (about B1,000 a dive, and between B9,000 and B12,000 for a PADI Open Water course). With a passion for diving, Aram Lumsakul chose peaceful Tanote Bay to create blacktip international diving Centre in 2000. This small centre offers PADI courses as well as daily dives (from one to three per day) in six different

languages. Dovetailing with their support of Go Eco and Green Fins, environmentally-motivated dive projects that monitor sites, train local instructors and reintroduce turtles, Blacktip IDC also offers simple but pleasant bungalows in a tropical garden. 07-745-6489 | www.blacktipdiving.com Preserving Koh Tao for future generations has become a concern for many islanders. With this in mind the New Heaven Dive School has teamed up with CPAD, a non profit organisation committed to finding sustainable development stategies for such areas. The research diver Certification programme teaches how to observe the reef, to collect data and to locate possible ecological imbalances. Courses range from 4 days to 1 week and include board and lodgings. Book in advance. www.newheavendiveschool.com

Photography by Akkanut chaitosa

The Natural Guide to Thailand is the third in a series of guide books dedicated to appreciating and respecting people and the environment. Created by the bumi Kita Foundation (www.naturalguide.org), the book is written by environmentalists, anthropologists, sociologists, journalists and artists – mostly Thais and insiders – who have selected only those businesses that actively demonstrate environmental and social commitment. in each issue, Bangkok 101 presents a destination excerpt from this guide and hopes readers will consider the Natural Guide approach when travelling in Thailand. The Natural Guide to Bali is also available. 42

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bangkok 101

WHERE TO EAT Don’t miss the New Heaven Restaurant with its wooden terrace overlooking the azure Thiang Og Bay. Enjoy seafood, local cuisine and fresh garlic bread, while lounging comfortably on cushions. 07-7456-462 | www.newheavenresort.com With bossa nova or jazz playing languorously in the background, Whitening Restaurant on Mae Haad Beach offers romantic dining by the glow of oil lamps. Comfortably installed on a whitewood terrace on the beach, gourmands can feast on excellent barbecue seafood, duck or lamb, tasty curries and spicy Thai salads. On Friday nights it transforms into a bar and the ambiance takes on electro rhythms. 086-100-0991 A stilted terrace over the sea makes up Taraporn Restaurant’s dining space and yields splendid views over the bay of Chalok Baan Kao. Combined with the low tables and cushion seating the result is a chilled ambience, perfect for savouring the oral joys of the Thai traditional kitchen.Try the panaeng curry, steamed fish, or chicken and basil.

bangkok 101

WHERE TO STAY The hillside bungalows at New Heaven Huts, framed by a luxurious semi-wild garden, are close to Sai Daeng Beach and Shark Island, a prime site for diving and snorkelling. Rooms are spacious and have a natural, modest look, with exposed rock walls. There is no A/C or fan, only the sea breeze to refresh you. 07-745-6462 | www.newheavenresort.com Far from the bustle of the port, Sensi Paradise Resort’s traditional and charming dark wooden bungalows, located either amid papaya trees or beside the sea, invite relaxation. The interiors are decorated with Thai handicraft and colourful fabrics and the open-sky-bathrooms, made out of stone, share the sea breeze with the broad terrace. The resort encourages guests to respect Koh Tao’s environment by saving water, not bringing plastic bottles and avoiding the use of washing powder. 07- 745-6244 | www.kohtaoparadise.com Around the secluded cove of Jansom at the southwest of the island, Charm Churee Villa’s sea and sunset facing bungalows integrate perfectly with a well-kept tropical garden. Wood prevails and many abodes jut right over giant boulders at the water’s edge. A splendid small beach and hotel spa are ideal for unwinding after a dive session. 07-745-6393 | www.charmchureevilla.com

sightseeing

Sightseeing

over the border

Singapore Fling

In this modern metropolis, low-key living is still the highlight One way to judge a city is by its simple pleasures – those happy accidents of geography, culture and history that add up to unexpected sensory delights. In Singapore, that means mouth-watering street food, lush green spaces and a penchant for window shopping that’s practically part of the national DNA. “The city of Singapore was not built up gradually, the way most cities are,” writes JG Farrell in his 1978 novel The Singapore Grip. “It was simply invented one morning early in the nineteenth century by a man looking at a map. ‘Here,’ he said to himself, ‘is where we must have a city’.” Halfway along the shipping routes between India and China, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles created not only one of the world’s great trading ports, but also one of its true melting pots.

sightseeing

bangkok 101

GETTING THERE Tiger Airways www.tigerairways.com Air Asia www.airasia.com EAT Makansutra Gluttons Bay hawker centre 1-5 Esplanade Mall | 6336-7025 Café le Caire 39 Arab St. | 6292-0979 | www.cafelecaire.com STAY The New Majestic Hotel 31-37 Bukit Pasoh Rd | 6511-4700 | bangkok 101

and 47 different venues around the city, runs until 8 October. During the day Kampong Glam, or Arab Street, is the place for funky kitsch, with Grandfather’s Collections and The Attic carrying vintage bottles, classic posters and old-school lamps. At night, cafés on Arab Street set up tables and rugs and the place becomes a pleasant jumble of mint tea sipping, sheesha smoking and people watching. Café le Caire is especially tasty and affordable. Or try the Makansutra Gluttons Bay hawker centre, where you can feast on melt-in-your-mouth barbecued stingray with sambal and omelets stuffed with fat, tasty oysters. Afterwards, take in the Esplanade. On any given evening around 8pm in the Esplanade underpass you’ll find

Singaporean youths spinning on their heads (helmet-protected, of course) to breakdancing tunes, flying over ramps on inline skates and generally having a rad time. Or, for a quieter end to your day, head back towards one of the small bridges that span the river. Several, including the ones at Robertson and Clarke’s Quay, are little architectural gems in their own right. After a while, Singapore may leave you missing Bangkok’s familiar chaos. But for a long weekend, a quiet bridge over a tame river can do wonders for the soul.

www.newmajestichotel.com The Fullerton Hotel | Fullerton Square | 6733-3838 | www.fullertonhotel.com MORE INFO www.visitsingapore.com www.singaporeartshow2007.com Other addresses Grandfather’s Collections 42 Bussorah St. Singapore Art Museum 71 Bras Basah Rd. | 6332-3222 | www.nhb.gov.sg/SAM

sightseeing

Photo courtesy of the Singapore Tourism Board

When the British cleared out after the second world war and Singapore found itself the unwanted stepchild of the Malay peninsula, Lee Kuan Yew took that jumble of cultures and shaped it into a hyper-efficient metropolis. Now, with relaxed bar closing times and a burgeoning arts festival circuit, “The effect,” writes veteran travel writer Pico Iyer, is “uncannily like that of seeing the classic movie scene in which a prim, law-abiding young lady takes off her glasses, shakes loose her hair, and shows us what she’s been made of all along.” And even the most devoted lover of Bangkok’s urban chaos can appreciate what Singapore is made of: lovely pink flowers brimming from pots, carefully restored shophouse neighborhoods and riverside walkways along refurbished quays. To make the most of it, eat cheaply and treat yourself to a stylish room. Skip Raffles (take a stroll through their garden instead), and check out the remodelled Fullerton. Or better yet, book yourself one of the 30 rooms at the New Majestic Hotel, each one a mini-gallery space for one of the citystate’s up and coming artists, with such features as suspended beds, twin castiron tubs and a huge collection of artpiece chairs. If the bold murals on the walls at the New Majestic whet your appetite for contemporary art, you’re in luck: the Singapore Art Show, with exhibits at the Singapore Art Museum

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence. Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists. Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma. Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series. Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional

Number 1 Gallery

absorption of all things American and whom are now receiving significant European, many of Thailand’s fresh- international exposure, though there faced generation of artists are infatuated is an increasing number of regional with the street-style, urban iconography Asian artists displaying their works, at of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, prices often cheaper than in countries Korea and like Singapore, China increasingly and Vietnam. “Prices for art in China. Whether hoping Bangkok are more An indicator to per use some realistic and of the growing reasonable than over- e m e r g i n g l o c a l profile of Thai art protagonist, or inflated, fashionable could be in the purchase something art centres in America, a b i t m o r e proliferation of Europe and new commercial commercial or increasingly China.” galleries that have traditional, one thing’s opened in the last for certain – prices couple of years, with Bangkok gaining for art in Bangkok are more realistic over a dozen new venues in different and reasonable than over-inflated, areas across the city.These include artist fashionable ar t centres in America, -run spaces such as printmaker and Europe and increasingly China. sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey You’ll soon realise that the city cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s doesn’t have a concentrated artistic hotbed of young conceptualists at enclave; rather, there are small pockets Gallery VER. of galleries, auction houses and While Thailand’s ongoing political antiques shops randomly dispersed debacle has complicated ar tistic throughout the city. Commercial planning, the decade-plus wait for the galleries are spread across town and new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre is a little route planning is advised before over. It’s currently in its soft-opening embarking on a day of gallery musing. period, with news of exhibitions, On the following page is a selection performances and the like expected to of noteworthy galleries about town. roll out in the coming months. Steven Pettifor is the editor of the GALLERIES Bangkok Art Map (BAM!), and author The majority of contemporary art on of Flavours:Thai Contemporary Art. He view in Bangkok is produced by is available as a consultant to art domestic practitioners, several of buyers; stevenpe@loxinfo.co.th ar ts

bangkok 101

■ 100 Tonson Gallery (map C3) 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-684-1527 | Thurs-Sat 11am-7pm | www.100tonsongallery.com

100 ตนสนแกลลอรี่ ซ.ตนสน ถ.เพลินจิต

■ Ardel Gallery of Modern Art (map D4) 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromrachachonanee Rd (Km 10.5) | 02-422-2092 | Tues-Sun 10am6pm | www.ardelgallery.com

อารเดล ถ.บรมราชชนนี

■ Bangkok Art & Culture Centre Pathumwan Junction, Opposite MBK shopping mall | BTS National Stadium | 02-214-6630~1 | 10am - 9pm

หอศิลปวฒ ั นธรรมกรุงเทพฯ ตรงขามมาบุญครอง

■ Bangkok University Art Gallery Bangkok University Gallery Bldg, Kluaynam Thai campus | Rama IV Rd | 02-350-3500 | Tues-Sat 9:30am-7pm

มหาวิทยาลัยกรุงเทพ กลวยน้ำไท ถ.พระราม 4

■ Chulalongkorn Art Center (map C3) Fl 7, Center of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, Phayathai Rd | BTS Siam | 02-2182965 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm

จุฬาลงกรณมหาวิทยาลัย ถ.พญาไท

■ Eat Me (map C4) Soi Phi Phat 2, Convent Rd | BTS Saladaeng 02238-0931 | daily 3pm-1am | www.hgallery.com

อีท มี 1/6 ซ.พิพัฒน 2 ถ.คอนแวนต

จุฬาลงกรณมหาวิทยาลัย ถ.พญาไท

■ Jim Thompson House Art Center (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 | 9am-5pm | www. jimthompsonhouse.com

B24-25, B1 Floor | 02-630-3381 | Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 11am-8pm

สีลม แกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

บานไทย จิมทอมปสัน 6 ซ.เกษมสันต 2 ถ.พระราม 1

■ Silpakorn University Gallery (map A3) 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (op. Grand Palace) | 02-623-6120, ext 1418 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm | www.su.ac.th

กาฐมาณฑุ โฟโต แกลลอรี่ ซ.วัดแขก สีลม

■ Surapon Gallery (map C4) Fl 1, Tisco Tower, 48/3 N. Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-638-0033 | Tue-Sat 11am-6pm

ละลานตา ไฟนอารต หัวมุม ซ.สีลม 19

■ Tadu Contemporary Art (map D2) 99/2 Tiamruammit Rd | MRT Thai Cultural Centre | 02-6450-2473 | Mon-Sat 9am6pm | www.tadu.net

มหาวิทยาลัยศิลปากร ถ.หนาพระลาน

■ Kathmandu Photo Gallery (map B3~4) 87 Pan Rd, (near Indian Temple), off Silom Rd | BTS Chong Nongsi | 02-234-6700 | Tues-Sun 11am-7pm | www.kathmandu-bkk.com

สุรพล แกลลอรี่ อาคารทิสโก ถ.สาทร

■ La Lanta Fine Art (map B3~4) 657 Unit B10, Silom Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02260-5381, 02-204-5083 | Tues-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat noon-9pm, Sun til 7pm | www.lalanta.com

หอศิลปตาดู ถ.เทียมรวมมิตร

■ National Gallery (map A3) 4 Chao Fah Rd | 02-281-2224 | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm

พิพิธภัณฑสถานแหงชาติ 4 ถ.เจาฟา

■ Tang Contemrary Art (map B4) Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-630-1114 | www.tangcontemporary.com

อาคารสีลมแกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

■ Teo & Namfah Gallery (map B4) 331, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak l 02-237-5568 l Mon-Sat 10.30am7pm l www.teonamfahgallery.com

นำทอง แกลลอรี่ ถ.เทอดดำริ ดุสิต

■ Thavibu Gallery (map B4) Suite 308, Fl 3, Silom Galleria, 919/1 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak| 02-266-5454 | Tue-Sat 11am7pm, Sun 12am-6pm | www.thavibu.com

หอศิลปสมเด็จพระนางเจาสิรกิ ติ ฯ ถ.ราชดำเนิน

■ Gallery Ver (map A3) Fl 2, 71/31-35 Klongsarn Plaza, Charoen Nakorn Rd, Thonburi | 02-861-0933 | WedSun 12am-7pm | www.verver.info

โรทันดา แกลลอรี่ หองสมุดนิลเซน เฮส ถ.สุรวงศ

■ Whitespace (map C2) Fl 2, 260 Lido Bldg, Siam Square Soi 3 | BTS Siam | 02-252-2900 | Tues-Sun 111.30 am8pm | www.whitespaceasia.com

ถัง คอนเทมโพรารี อารท สีลมแกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

■ Number 1 Gallery (map B3~4) Room # B15 Silom Galleria, 919 Silom Rd BTS Surasak | 08-6524-6152 | www.number1gallery.com | Mon-Sat 10am-7pm

เทีย่ ว น้ำฟา สีลมแกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

■ Numthong Gallery (map C2) 1129/29,31 Co-Op Housing Building | Toeddamri Rd, Dusit | BTS Ari | 02-243-4326 | Mon-Sat 11am-6pm

■ H Gallery (map B4) 201 Soi 12, Sathorn Rd | BTS Surasak | 08-1310-4428, 02-310-4428 | Thurs-Sat noon-6pm, Sun-Wed by appointment | www.hgallerybkk.com

เอช แกลลอรี่ 201 ซ.12 ถ.สาทร

■ Hof Art (map D1) 244-248 Soi Vibhavadi Rangsit 16/32 Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd | MRT Ratchadaphisek | 02-690-1347-8 | Tue-Sat 10:30am-6pm | www.hofart.net

ฮอฟ อารต วิภาวดีรังสิต ซ.16/32

■ Jamjuree Gallery (map C3) Jamjuree Building 8, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Siam | 02-218-3709, 0-

FREE

galleries

2218-3633~6 | Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat, Sun & Holidays noon-6pm

ทวิบู แกลลอรี่ สีลม แกลลอเรีย ถ.สีลม

■ The Queen’s Gallery (map A3) 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd | 02-281-5360 | Thur-Tue 10am-7pm | www.queengallery.org

แกลลอรี่ เวอร คลองสาน พลาซา ถ.เจริญนคร

■ Rotunda Gallery (map C4) Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-233-1731 | Tue-Sun 9:30am5pm | www.neilsonhayslibrary.com

ไวทสเปซ ลิโด สยามสแควร ซ.3

■ Silom Galleria Art Space (map C4) Unit

For the latest scoop on Bangkok’s art scene, pick up a free copy of BAM! citywide at art galleries, cultural centres or from your hotel concierge.

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the Village and Harvest Time By Sakarin Krue-on

Current Exhibitions

The most interesting shows across town

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by Jirapat Tatsanasomboon

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Exhibition Spotlight

gkok Ar t Map

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Bangkok Art Map

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Spiritual Spaces

Current Exhibitions The most interesting shows across town

Gallery Directory

Ripe Project: the Village and Harvest Time

Current Exhibitions

The most interesting shows across town

Gallery Directory

Detailing the capital’s best viewing spaces

www.bangkokartmap.com 47

{

Romanee Thienprasiddhi. The leading Thai luxury lifestyle magazine Thailand Tatler once wrote of Romanee: ‘She is able to attend seven parties per day if required.’ The owner of Plengprasiddhi Silom Kindergarten is also known for her work on children’s issues.

}

Portraits of

HighSociety Photographs by MANIT SRIWANICHPOOM

The members of Bangkok’s high-society, popularly called ‘hi-so’, do not consist entirely of the country’s wealthiest citizens, nor its most famous families. Instead, some hi-sos are a class unto themselves, a modern subculture whose prominent figures make their reputations by attending fancy parties and product launches, displaying a lavish – often dizzying – sense of style, and never shying away from the camera. By making sure their names are on every party list and garnering mass media attention, these hi-sos have created a special role for themselves in a status-driven Thai society. Manit Sriwanichpoom – one of Thailand’s leading photographers – is renowned for the provocative, deeply political vein of his work, particularly his views on Thai consumerism. But for the Thailand: 9 Days in the Kingdom project he chose to photograph some of these ‘hi-sos’ in their homes while dressed in their best clothes – to drop overt social commentary and let the portraits speak for themselves.

photo feature

{

Marissa Mahavongtrakul. The youthful-looking Marissa is the managing director of Bhodhi Leaf Co. Ltd, a purveyor of religious paraphernalia.

}

photo feature

{

Chuchai Chairitthilerd (left), owner and designer of Gem Peace by Chuchai, and Somsak Chalachol, a celebrity hairstylist, are famous for their outrageous outfits and being the ‘lives’ of the party. Somsak has started a charitable foundation called Somsak for Somsak, which helps less-fortunate Thais named ‘Somsak’.

}

photo feature

{ {

Suriyon Sriorathaikul, managing director of Beauty Gems and a former chairman of the Thai Diamond Club. The boyishlooking Suriyon is not only a regular face at the parties around town, but is also active in the Boy Scouts.

}

Lee Puengboonpra is known to wear conspicuous jewellery and to travel to parties with an entourage of attendants. A frequent face in magazines, she decided to launch her own and is now the managing director of Hi!

}

THAILAND: DAYS IN THE KINGDOM The pictures here come from the Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom project, which was organised by Singapore publisher Editions Didier Millet (EDM). For nine days, between January 14 and January 22, 2007, 55 of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest photographic minds from 18 nations gathered in Thailand. Their mission was to create a visual time capsule of the great kingdom to mark the 80th birthday of His Majesty the King. Across the country, hundreds of priceless moments were snapped up and immortalized on celluloid, featuring Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s people and wildlife, land scapes and cityscapes, smiles and struggles. The work has been presented in a stunning, large-format coffee table book called Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom, filled with Thailand from every possible angle. The 304-page book, with no less than 425 photographs from the project, includes a free DVD with two behind-the-scenes documentaries, and is on sale at B2S, Kinokuniya and Asia Books for B1,750. It is a rare opportunity and a must-have for anyone fascinated by Thailand. www.9days-inthekingdom.com www.edmbooks.com

Arts

performing arts Aksra Theatre

Theatres

JOE LOUIS PUPPET THEATER (map C4) Suan Lum Night Bazaar, 1875, Rama IV Rd | 02-252-9683~4 | daily 7:30pm | adults B300, children B200, VIP B500 | www.joelouis-theater.com A live puppet show might sound aimed at kids, but this one is intriguing for all. The one-hour show follows the ancient Ramayana, the classic Hindu epic and Asian legend. The large puppets are incredibly lifelike; the scenes are colourful and fun to watch – so even adults enjoy the show. Winner of ‘Best Traditional Performance’ at the World Festival of Puppet Art 2006. Arrive early to observe the production of traditional masks.

โรงละครหุนโจ หลุยส ถ.พระราม 4 สวนลุมไนท บาซาร

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241342, 02-225-8457~8, 02-222-1352 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแหงชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but nevertheless if you look under the surface you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds in what may at times seems like a desert. And everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. Thais love to enjoy themselves and are always up for a good show, whether it originates from Thailand’s deep and rich history, or a touring artist or production stopping off at the City of Angels. You’ll be amazed by the masked Khon performances, enchanted by the elegant traditional Ram Thai dances, and captivated by world class symphonies. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com, www.bangkokconcerts.com PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www.patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the only places in Bangkok you’re likely to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges. Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are worldclass. The theatre is also home to the annual Bangkok Fringe Festival.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Over 150 per formers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history: religious fes tivals cultur al her itage using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects. Up to 2,000 guests nightly experience this spectacle; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ. เทียมรวมมิตร

THAI CHALERM KRUNG ROYAL THEATRE (map A3) 66 Charoen Krung Rd, Phra Nakhon | 02222-1854, 02-222-0434 | 02-225-8757 This landmark was originally built as ar ts

a cinema and later transformed into a well-equipped palace. A wide variety of performances – Khon masked dances, period dramas, movies – are often enhanced by dramatic special effects like lasers and multi-vision systems.

โรงละครเฉลิมกรุง ถ. เจริญกรุง

THAILAND CULTURAL CENTER (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Huay Kwang | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02247-0028 ext 4103~4, 4119 | www.thaiculturalcenter.com This f igurehead cultur al centre continuously hosts an eclectic range of music, drama and dance performances from Thailand and around the globe.

ศูนยวัฒนธรรมแหงประเทศไทย ถ. รัชดาภิเษก หวยขวาง

AKSRA THEATRE (map C3) King Power Complex, 8/1 Rangnam Road, Phayathai | 02-677-8888 ext. 5678 | Tues-Sun 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm & 7pm | B800 | www.aksratheatre.com Inside this spectacular new 600capacity theatre, lined with fabled wooden carvings, bear witness to performances of Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek puppetry. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Spellbinding. It’s easy to find – hop off the Skytrain at BTS Victory Monument, take exit 2 onto Soi Rangnam, walk 400 metres. The King Power complex is on your right.

โรงละครอักษรา ถ.รางน้ำ

bangkok 101

Foreign Cultural Centres

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s cultural scene are its foreign cultural centres. They ensure that stages around town stay booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on. ALLIANCE FRANÇAISE (map C4) 29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02670-4200 | Mon-Sat 10am-6pm | www. alliancefrancaise.or.th

สมาคมฝรั่งเศส กรุงเทพ 29 ถ .สาทร

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3) 254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคานซิล สยามสแควร

GOETHE INSTITUT (map C4) 18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-287-0942~4 ext.22 | daily 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ สาทร ซ. 1

JAPAN FOUNDATION (map D3) Serm-mit Tower, Fl 10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-2608560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวนเดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ BANGKOK COMMUNITY THEATRE (BCT) 02-234-0247, www.bct-th.org ■ BANGKOK MUSIC SOCIETY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ BANGKOK SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphonyorchestra.org

Ram Thai (Thai Traditional Dance) Traditional Thai theatre and dance take many forms. The most accessible to tourists is khon, which depicts scenes from the classic Hindu epic, the Ramayana, in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed most commonly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (see p. 33), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (see p.30), don’t miss the performances there. More popular amongst Thais is “ligay”, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theater at the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramayana (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes. There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre (see p.58) across the river and at the Thailand Cultural Center (see p.58). bangkok 101

ar ts

Cabarets

MAMBO (map D4) Washington Square, Sukhumvit Rd near Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-2595128 | daily 8:30pm & 10pm | B800 The mother of Bangkok drag cabarets, tongue-in-cheek Mambo is still going strong, thanks to its fab ensemble of the city’s most glam kathoey giving their all amid rather drab décor. The very popular show is somewhat mainstreamy, but its professionalism keeps you entertained. The gals are so good they’ve even toured London. Be prepared for mimed pop tunes, Broadway evergreens, glitz and big, big melodrama.

แมมโบ วอชิงตันสแควร ถ. สุขุมวิท

CALYPSO (map C3) Asia Hotel | 296 Phaya Thai Rd | 02216-8937| daily 8:15pm & 9:45pm | www.calypsocabaret.com | B1,000 (includes 1 drink) Bangkok’s biggest drag show cabaret features more than 50 kathoey (ladyboys) in a gender-bending and dazzling show twice a night. The show’s a rollercoaster of fun: envisage Madonna and Marilyn mimes, Nippon kitsch and the Paris Folies. Their Spice Girls are frighteningly good. Calypso offers an intriguing blend of the comic, the sexy and the bizarre. Don’t be afraid to take the kids along.

คาลิปโซ รร.เอเชีย ถ. พญาไท

Arts

cinema

angkok boasts world-class, state-of-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido, screen less common independent and international films. Foreign films are mostly screened in their native languages with subtitles in Thai. For artsy fare, check out the regular screenings at culture centres like the Alliance Française, Goethe Institut and Japan Foundation – most movies are shown with English subtitles. Seats Please are reasonably priced at around B100-180. The best stand quietly place to check screening times is on the daily-updated while the national www.movieseer.com, which just about every anthem is played Bangkokian uses before going to the movies. in respect to Thailand’s king. Thai Cinema Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad. Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing. Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

APEX Lido, Siam and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd l BTS Siam l Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02-251-2861, Siam 02-251-3580

โรงภาพยนตลโิ ด สยาม และสกาลา สยามสแควร ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Grand (Gold Class) Siam Discovery Center, Rama 1 Rd l BTS Siam l 02-812-9999

สยามดิสคัฟเวอรรเ่ี ซ็นเตอร ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Metropolis (Gold Class) Big-C Ratchadamri (opp. Central World Plaza), Ratchadamri Rd l BTS Chitlom l 02-812-9999

บิก๊ ซี ราชดำริ ตรงขามเซ็นทรัล เวิลดพลาซา ถ. ราชดำริ

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd l 02-641-5177

เฮาส อารซเี อ ถ. พระรามเกา

Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd l BTS Siam l 02-129-4631

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd l BTS Siam l 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555

สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1

SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd l BTS National Stadium l 02-611-6444

มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร ถ. พญาไท

These Screens are Gold

You enter the dimly lit room, chiffon drapes sway against the wall as the cool air flows against your skin. Settling into the velvet sofa, complimentary drinks are whisked in front of you. Soon you are led to a separate area. Dark and hard to navigate, you are guided to your seat in this chilly chamber. Reclining back, a blanket is pulled over your body, covering you up for whatever thrills that may ensue. By now it’s more than obvious where you’ve been lured..... To the movies of course!! In Thailand you can fly in cinematic first class, which is possible for roughly the same price as your old neighbourhood theatre back home. All of the above, including seat-side waiter service, is available for around B300, although Paragon charges at least double.

SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 l BTS Phrom Phong l 02-260-9333

เอ็มโพเรียม สุขมุ วิท 24

SF WORLD CINEMA 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd l BTS Chit Lom l 02-268-8888

เซ็นทรัลเวิลดพลาซา ถ. ราชดำริ

Paragon Cineplex

Where’s the gold?

ar ts

bangkok 101

reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent book shops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used. LUXE CITY GUIDES 9th THAI EDITION Liz Weselby (Bkk ed.)| Luxe Asia Limited | B1,000 | 3x20pp Deeply we bow before this slick booklet, thin enough to slip into your knickers as one fan once admitted. Snarkier than a gum-blowing hipster and as snappy as a tranny that lost her handbag, it contains the absolute must-see, must-drink and must-shop lists for anybody belonging to today’s travel elite. Bangkok editor Liz Weselby uses an army of trendsetting helpers, to inform her of everything going on. Plus, she regularly roams Bangkok like a Chihuahua on heat, redefining city guides on the way. This ninth edition has just hit the city, and its high-end industry is biting their nails – have they made it, have they been ignored, or – worst of all – have they been dropped? No less essential are the Chiang Mai and Phuket guides in this bumper pack; all shot through with Luxe’s brutally frank brevity.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai ﬁlm. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong or CD Warehouse outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English subtitles and DVD region compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkﬁlm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

PARADISE BY DESIGN Bill Bensley | Periplus Editions | B1,795 | 240pp Bensley Design Studios’ lush, El Dorado-like resorts and maximalist private residences are vividly profiled in this glossy gambol through their work in China, India, Malaysia and Thailand. Separated by country, each project gets pages of landscaping maestro Bill Bentley’s inspirationelucidating prose alongside annotated pictures. Flicking through, what hits home is Bensley and his team’s ﬂair for using the Asian vernacular – landscape, architecture, art, ornamentation – to create resorts of folly as much as function. Like the late Victorian fantasy writer, they are masters at painstakingly conceived lost paradises. The difference being these imagined world’s are realised using locally-inﬂected sculptures, walkways, water-features, plants and whatever else fulfils their boundless whimsy – not the pen. Heady coffee-table stuff.

SIGHTSEEING Rattawut Lapcharoensap | Grove Press | 2005 | B495 | 208pp When was the last time you read a novel written by a Thai author? The feted debut of the literary youngster-slash-genius – translated into 11 languages – will inspire you to discover a world you might think you know but which turns out to be utterly exotic. The short story collection shows you almost casually what lies behind the touristy paradise that is Thailand. The narrator keeps falling in love with holidaying foreigners. A boys’ friendship breaks up during a medical for the military. The son of a woman going blind takes her sightseeing on an island. Rattawut’s fresh writing is as clear and sharp as the eye of a camera, and he manages to find spots of beauty in even the darkest situations. Each of his stories is as rewarding as a novel. The best introduction to contemporary Thailand we know of.

COUNTRY HOTEL R.D. Pestonji | 1957 |www.thaiﬁlm.com (Thai Film Foundation) | DVD B250 An absurdist black comedy featuring a tootling trombone player, an arm-wrestling champ, and a saucy minx who claims to be a 65-year-old opium smuggler, Country Hotel – or the “Hell Hotel” of the Thai-language title – is a cornerstone of Thai cinema. “Thai New Wave” directors including Wisit Sasanatieng and Pen-Ek Ratanaruang have drawn inspiration from the film’s bawdy humour and fullﬂedged song-and-dance performances; the National Film Archives in Nakhon Pathom has even reproduced the set in its museum. Filmed by cinematic pioneer R.D. Pestonji, the Country Hotel showcases an oddball series of vaudeville acts – a marching band, a boxing competition, a husband and wife chained together – before giving way to a robber-hostage drama. Bizarrely delightful. ar ts

Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok trafﬁc and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop. Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby. The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community.

Colonnade

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; ﬂags of all nationalities ﬂy here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer. You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms! Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier. However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.75). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right? So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anythingonce daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

ThE aDDED VaLuE

$ under B600

one of Asia’s great dining bargains, Bangkok has an $$ B600 - B1,000 incredible range of culinary venues and food offerings to $$$ B1,000 - B2,000 suit any budget.you can stuff yourself with local delicacies $$$$ over B2,000 at hawker stalls on the street for less than B35 (uS$1) a plate, or treat yourself at one of Bangkok’s ﬁnest eateries for around the price of a gastropub meal in London. With each of the following restaurant listings we present an approximate scale (see box above) of the per-person cost for a three-course meal (starter, main dish and dessert), not including drinks. Most restaurants charge 7% government tax (VAT) plus a 10% service charge.Additional tipping is the diner’s prerogative but is not expected. Credit cards are widely accepted, unless otherwise noted.

Basil

Butt out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being ﬁned B2,000 (uS$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (uS$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and korean restaurants. 58

food & drinks

bangkok 101

meal deals

THE MED rESTAurAnT, THE WESTIn GrAnDE SukHuMVIT

LIu, THE ConrAD Chinese Master Chef Wong Kam-Yau, from The Conrad Bangkok’s Liu, has prepared a selection of traditional and East-meets-West variations for the Mooncake festivities. Celebrate your abundance and togetherness this Autumn with his unique takes on the puck-shaped Chinese delicacies, among them Golden Custard, Red Bean, Light Lotus Seed, Classic Durian and Chocolate ﬂavours. Call 02690-9222.

Grilled rock lobster, fillet de boeuf en croute, baked salmon with salt crust… just a few of the many Gallic delights available at The Med’s buffet each Friday and Saturday evening. Chef Pierre-Andre can’t abide shortcuts when it comes to French food, and this exhaustive selection of dishes – painstakingly prepared – is well worth the price tag of B1,100++. Call 02-207-8000 ext. 8120 for reservations.

WynDHAM THAI rESTAurAnT & BAr A GrEEk oDySSEy, CrEPES & Co For the garrulous Greeks, the art of conversation, sharing and ambiance is just as important as the food itself. They even have a word for it: paraia. Using only the freshest seasonal ingredients – and its atmospheric restaurant setting, no doubt - the ‘A Greek Odyssey’ festival at Sukhumvit Soi 12’s Crepes and Co will attempt to recreate this unique sensory melange. Runs from August until October. Call 02-6533990 for more information.

ThE 9th annuaL WoRLD GouRmET FESTiVaL Venue

mon 22nd

Tue 23rd

Shintaro

Lobby Lounge Afternoon Tea

Michael Ginor Hudson Valley Foie Gras, new york, uSA B5,900 Siggi Hall Siggi Hall restaurant reykjavik, Iceland B4,800

Plan your attack at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok’s annual gastro-fest, proﬁled on pg.13 Fri 26th

Sat 27th

Jeffery Jake

Sun 28th

Maurizio Quaranta Locanda del Pilone, Alba, Italy | B5,100 World Gourmet Brunch B2,600 Jeffery Jake Carneros Inn, napa Valley, uSA | B4,800

Glenn Ballis

Glenn Ballis nedal’nij Vostok, Moscow, russia B4,800

Siggi hall

Michael Laiskonis Le Bernadin, new york, uSA B850

The Ballroom / Montathip Court Celina Tio

Cooking Class Pimarnman B1,900

Thu 25th

Celina Tio The American restaurant, kansas City, uSA | B4,800

Biscotti

Madison

Wed 24th

Tuck in to a B299 threecourse set lunch from Chef Khun Rom, a native Thai fusion specialist who spent over two decades refining his craft in Australia as well as Wyndham’s Hong Kong restaurant. While there, be sure to check out Martin Reeves’ exhibition of photographs, some of which featured in Thailand: 9 days in the Kingdom. On Sukhumvit 16. Call 02-258-1783.

Lunch

Dinner

Celina Tio

Siggi Hall

Michael Ginor

Glenmorangie World Single Malt Scotch Whisky Gourmet Gala Dinner Tasting B8,500 5 - 7pm B600 Jeffrey Jake Maurizio Quaranta

maurizio Quaranta

Glenn Ballis

michael Laiskonis

michael Ginor

*Prices listed are in Thai baht, are per person and do not include service charge and local government taxes.

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

thai cuisine

Did you know?

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world. The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desser ts social affair in or savoury mousses Thailand. are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared. 60

Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills. So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

Tom Yum Kung (Spicy Shrimp Soup)

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom Yam Goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom Kha Gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad Thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/Gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som Tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam Nua.......spicy beef salad Gai Yarng..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng Phet Pet Yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng Khiao Wan Gai.....green curry chicken Phad Kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sacred basil Gai Phad Met Mamuang Himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets. Nam Ma Prao.......................coconut juice Nam Krajeab .............rosella flower juice Nam Matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam Ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam Tao Hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha Yen............................Thai iced tea with condensed milk bangkok 101

thai sweets ‘PoLAMAI’: THAI FruITS

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative. To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

September is best for: LonGAn (Lam-Yai)

Not to be mistaken for the similarly named Longong fruit, the Longan, known as Lam-Yai in Thai and often referred to as the “Dragon Eye”, is one of the most popular fruits in the country. Small and round, they have a thin, crisp brown skin and a translucent sweet ﬂesh that many liken to lychees in taste, and grapes in texture. Widely found in Northern Thailand, they can be enjoyed fresh, dried, served over ice as a dessert, or even as a refreshing juice. In some parts of Southeast Asia, its seed is pressed against snake bites with the belief that they absorb venom, while the dried fruit has been used to cure insomnia. But try not to get too carried away eating them, excessive consumption of this fruit is said to be surefire path to sore throats and mouth ulcers!

Try also: Watermelon (Taeng-Mo), Coconut (Ma-Praow), Pomelo (Som O), Guava (Farang), Banana (Kluay), Papaya (Malakor), Mangosteen (Mong-Koot), Lychee (Lyn-Chee), Jackfruit (Kanoon), Mango (Ma Muang), Rambutan (Ngoh)

kanom Thai

The word kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorized as a kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify. you may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to ﬁnd them. restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the speciﬁc ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal. To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This!

Kanom Taan These fluffy yellow cakes are made from Sugar Palms (Taan is the Thai word for sugar palms). The yellow pulp of the ripe palm is mixed with starch and sugar, before being steamed in small pandan-leaf cups. It is usually served with shredded coconut on top. bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food hotspots

SukHuMVIT SoI 38 Directly beneath the Thong Lo BTS station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to Bangkok’s revellers. Sample the delicate, handmade egg noodles, or Hong Kong Noodles; and never head home without trying the Sticky Rice with Mango. SurAWonG A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near the Patpong Night Market. In front of the Wall Street Building; be sure to try the Stewed Chicken Noodles in Herbal Soup. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am.

ealikte

Nym

PrATunAM Midnight Chicken Rice! There are two shops at the intersection; the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the Pork Satay with Peanut Sauce. CHInAToWn Shops fill the streets after dark. There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas. A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious Egg Noodles with Barbecued Pork. For dessert, try fantastic Black Sesame Seed Dumplings in Ginger Soup next door.

ood is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture. The city is famed for its scrumptious street food. Bangkokians eat out day and night, and locals know exactly what to get and where. on every street you’ll spot mobile vendors; some open for lunch only, others open all night. you’ll often ﬁnd clusters of vendors in one place, selling all kinds of rice and noodle dishes. you can always eat out in restaurants, but don’t miss some of the wonderful street specialities.

Food Courts

Nearly all Bangkok department stores and malls dedicate ample space to food courts, culinary havens where you’ll find all the best local street food and more in air-conditioned surroundings. They are super-clean cheap, and many stands display pictures of the dishes – food courts make for the perfect initiation to Thai street food. Pick and choose – it will be tallied up as you go; you pay as you leave. Among our faves, try Central Chitlom, Central World, Siam Paragon, Emporium and MBK (see p. 100).

our roving street-food eater nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel. From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

SWEET WALkInG

It would take months to taste everything Bangkok’s Chinatown has to offer. There’s the famous seafood corner, there’s what I call the red and green curry corner, and not far from that corner is this refreshing spot. Walk against the traffic on the same side as all the big seafood restaurants, and you’ll find a corner stall selling sweet orange juice. Called som cheng, it’s become rare and expensive in Thailand. However, Jay Fai and his son have been continuously squeezing fresh som cheng at this same tiny corner for about 50 years; and only charge a meagre 50 baht per glass for their efforts. It’s different from tangerine or mandarin juice. Fresh som cheng juice yields a gentle and lovely taste that’s unlike anything else. It’s lighter and more aromatic, with an almost perfumed taste. The colour is somewhere between sugar cane juice and lemon juice, and, compared to other orange juices I’ve experienced, a lot paler. But don’t look down on the colour – once you taste it, you will know why it’s worth getting in line and buying a big glass! If you fancy more ‘sweet walking’, continue further until you pass Soi 2. There you will find patong kotod (fried Chinese doughnut). They taste similar to beignets from the Café Du Monde in New Orleans, only here you dip them in sang kaya (Thai egg custard). At only 4 baht each, they’re perfect for a sweet end to a big meal in Chinatown! Getting there: start from Soi 2 on the right hand side of Chinatown’s main yaowarat road. Pass the patong kotod stall ﬁrst, then walk your way up to the fresh som cheng. Both open everyday 5pm - midnight, or until they sell out. 62

food & drinks

bangkok 101

Thai AnA GArDEn (map E4) 67 Thong Lo 3 | BTS Thong Lo | 02391-1762 | www.anagarden.com | daily 5pm–midnight | $ A Secret Garden-esque hideaway in the middle of Thong Lo. Huge tropical trees hover over rustic wooden tables as vines crawl across the walls and a fountain gurgles in the centre of the restaurant. The idyllic atmosphere is accompanied by downtempo music and a hushed vibe as the trees cast their shade over everything. It can appear quite dimly lit as a result, but then that’s exactly why Ana Garden escapes the trappings of all those other hip eateries where it’s so important to see and be seen.The ThaiIsaan fare is simple yet succulent.Try the barbecued fish or the grilled chicken. For a hip after-dinner drink, check out Groove Kitchen, the nightclub at the rear of the restaurant. Overall, a refuge of relaxation and a world away from the urban tumult.

แอนนา การเดนท ซ.ทองหลอ ถ.สุขุมวิท 55

HArMonIQuE (map B4) 22 Charoen Krung Soi 34 | 02-237 8175 | Mon-Sat 11am-4pm | $ This Chinese shophouse – three streets away from The Oriental Hotel – is a bit difficult to find but its superb atmosphere makes it

bangkok 101

definitely worth looking for. Ask your concierge for directions. The highceilinged dining rooms may be too much for aesthetes; some adore the accumulated bric-a-brac; others find it down-right garish. You can always sit and unwind at the marble tables in the shady, soothing, ﬂower-filled courtyard, which will make you forget all about the high-stress levels of Bangkok’s urbanity. The food is Thai, and clearly inﬂuenced by the Chinese heritage of the cheerful siblings who run the place. If you’re used to the spiciness of Thai food make sure you ask for hot versions; otherwise you might find the spice level on the sweet side. The clientele is almost entirely Western who rave about the menu with photos of all the dishes. Stop by for an inexpensive lunch.

ฮาโมนิค เจริญกรุง ซ. 34

CELADon (map C4) The Sukhothai, 13 South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumphini | 02-344-8888 | www.sukhothai.com | daily 11:30am2:30pm & 6:30pm-10:30pm | $$$ Style marries substance, and their love child is this darling, all dressed up in muted colours, surrounding itself with a quaint lotus pond. Two highceilinged Thai-style pavilions fill up with stylish diners night after night; smart-looking staff dressed in that

food & drinks

restaurants Celadon

beautiful Sukhothai style treat them to perfect service with big smiles. The food convinces greenhorns and veterans alike. The drops-onyouforehead- and-burning-lips factor is just right, and many dishes come with a neat, well-thought-out twist (the pomelo salad is served on a soft shell crab). The street-side grittiness (like the pungent dried shrimps in Pad Thai) has been removed so as not to overwhelm newcomers, but not so far as to put off Thai diners. All this makes paying the lofty bill easier. Celadon makes a perfect compliment to one of the finest hotels in Asia.

ศิลาดล รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต

Food&Drinks

MALI (map C4) 43 Sathorn Soi 1 | 02-679-8693 | daily 8:30am-11pm | $ Finding a tranquil spot smack-dab in the city is pretty difficult even for old Bangkok hands, so this old-timer is a sort of secret, and it’s been one for years. A handful of rustic tables on a wood-encased terrace are peopled throughout the day by an eclectic bunch: pre-clubbing gay gangs share benches with diplomats, expats mingle with royalty – the Swedish King and his family has dropped by more than once. They all come for the genial ambiance and the hearty, cheap food, be it very convincing Thai or comfort Western (deluxe burgers, tex-mex and English breakfasts). The pitchers of beer are Bangkok’s best bargain. The indoor part is somewhat drab so the terrace is hotly fought over. Only with luck will you ever get to sit in the inti mate ‘crow’s nest’. But if you’re thinking of calling ahead to reserve you might want to reconsider your choice of venue.

มะลิ สาทร ซ. 1

Bed Supperclub

inTERnaTionaL BED SuPPErCLuB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | daily 7:30-11pm | $$$ Bed is one of two mega-night clubs in town that keeps pulling in fashionable crowds. Some of them are so ‘beddicted’ partying here alone doesn’t provide the necessary fix. But like a generous pusher, Bed gives them what they need, and lets them in early. There they lounge, in the all-white framing, on snug sofas, compiling their three-course-menu, checking out the competition streaming in. True fanatics know which sofas offer the best vista. Luckily, some of them care about the food - which is somehow always an imaginative feast, all fresh, fusion and tantalizing. Mondays are perfect for romantics – as part of a serious get-green drive, most lighting is achieved via candlelight. Come 11pm, many in the the ﬂock move to the club side. One hurdle you must pass before entering Bangkok’s adult playground: the tight security checks at Bed’s doors will have you think you’re entering a war zone. Even if you’re coming for dinner only, don’t forget to bring a photo ID.

เบด ซัปเปอรคลับ สุขุมวิท 11

kuPPA (map D3) 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 02-663-0450 | Tue-Sun 10am-10pm | $$ The fame of this tea and coffee housecum-restaurant was built on a simple concept: innovative comfort food. And for years this magnetic formula has been drawing in a steady stream of diners to this spacious and stylish den of feasting. A safe bet for breakfast, lunch or dinner, Kuppa devotees come for a salads and sandwiches, quiche, imaginative pizzas and pasta. The short menu of Thai specialties is also worth sampling. Save some space, and choose from one of Bangkok’s most decadent selection of cakes, pies and other sweet things. Casual by day, Kuppa transforms into an elegant dining choice in the evening. Dishes and wines are on par with some 64

food & drinks

the top international kitchens in town.

คัปปา สุขมุ วิท ซ.16

iTaLian BASILICo (map D4) 8 Sukhumvit Soi 33 | BTS Phrom Phong | www.basilicopizzeria.com | 02-662-2323 | Open Mon-Thurs 11am-2pm, 6pm11:30pm; Fri-Sun 11am-midnight | $$ Bangkok wants for Italian restaurants like the Sahara wants for sand, but Basilico is one of those places that succeeds by concentrating on doing one thing well. Very well. Home to this reviewer’s nomination for best pizza in town, the huge, informal Sukhumvit 33 branch revels in checked tablecloths and more loyal customers than you could shake a giant pepper mill at. The pasta might not be anything to tell Mama about, but with something like 50 delectably thin, crispy pizzas on the menu we’ll let that slip. The vast main dining room is ideal for groups and families who can enjoy watching the pizza chefs tossing their pies into the sky, and there’s a quieter back room for those in the mood for amore. There’s now a second Basilico branch on Sukhumvit 20.

บาซิลโิ ค สุขมุ วิท ซ.33

IuTA (map C4) 772 Soi Suanplu (South Sathorn Soi 3) |BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-679-3952 | TueSun 5pm-1am | www.iuta.th.gs | $$ The name sounds bit Japanese (actually pronounced “ee-oo-ta”), and the “Fashion Club” sign out front is a bit strange since, aside from the 1am closing time, it’s not even close to being a club. Amazingly, this is one of the few Italian restaurants in the under-served Sathorn neighbourhood. Housed in an old Thai residence which has over the years begun to sink, you can either sit outside with the cats and tumult or slink into the low-slung dining room filled with brash red tablecloths and curvy loungers. The owners, the “Two Lucas”, Luca Gatti and Luca Tribastone, hail from Modena and the menu mirrors this with Northern Italian delights such as a refreshing Parma roll with fresh zucchini and an excellent bangkok 101

iuTa

FREnCh

home-made cannelloni stuffed with seafood and cherry tomatoes. Bloodthirsty carnivores should note, however, that the imported beef fillet is served well-done, so be sure to tell them otherwise.

อียตู า ซ.สวนพลู (สาทรใต ซ.3)

kIoSk (map D4) TCDC Library | 6th Floor, Emporium Shopping Complex | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-664-8448#242 | $ Judging by all the somnolent students in the library of this open-to-all design centre, swatting up on the latest design, art or fashion trends is hard work. Fortunately though Bangkok’s bright young things now have Kiosk, a dark Italian cafe adjoined to this state-of-theart facility, to awaken their creativity.With décor as black and as strong as their rousing Italian coffee, owners Bundit and Jason have crafted a chic, creatively minded space that is already clicking with this young (but often yawning) arts cognoscenti. Come after visiting the latest exhibition. Sit down next to a bleary-eyed undergraduate, pensively stirring their Mocca, and enjoy one of their homemade cakes, fruit juices, cheeses, salads or other brainfoods. Friday and Saturday evenings feature light-fingered violinists or pianists. And art installations are on the cards. Food for the mind, ears and stomach then.

AuBErGInE (map C4) 71/1 Soi Saladaeng 1/1 | BTS Saladaeng, MRT Silom | 02-234-2226 | Mon-Sat 11am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm | $$ Poised on a quiet sub-soi between casual Saladaeng and the elegant hotels of Sathorn, Aubergine splits the difference and comes out cozy and classy. A beautifully preserved home with modern touches - warm yellow walls, a curvaceous bar, generous outdoor seating, and chic private rooms. The food is traditional, but not stodgy - Aubergine boasts tantalizing French and Italian. The lobster bisque is light and tastes like pure concentrate of the sea - potent, rich, but playing on the tongue. Handmande pastas provide such excellent counterpoints to fresh sauces - a robust fish ragout cut with the nutty assertiveness of rocket, for example. Meat entrées are conceived and executed with similar care. The lamb rack is one standout - tender, smoky, and accompanied by a meltingly rich gratin dauphinois and a delectable ratatouille. A fine wine list and sophisticated, not-too-sweet desserts round out the offerings at Aubergine, where haute can be homey after all.

โอเบอรจนี ซ.ศาลาแดง 1/1

kiosk

เอ็มโพเรียม ติดสถานีรถไฟฟาพรอมพงษ

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

chic bangkok Cheryl Tseng

BrEEzE

BEST FoR Asian Seafood WhERE lebua State Tower 1055 Silom road www.thedomebkk.com BTS Saphan Taksin, 02-624-9555

Known for its high ﬂyers’ hangouts and Conde Nast accolades, The Dome’s dining destination, Breeze, perches on the building’s edge with an atmospheric touch. The suspended pathway that leads to the alfresco dining space sparkles with tiny glows, as if the restaurant is ﬂoating among the stars. Tables are set in crispy white linens and romantically candle-lit. Breeze’s menu consists of pricey Asian delicacies, ranging from whole abalone, grilled Kobe beef to braised shark’s fin. Other equally superior dishes consist of pan-fried Perigord foie gras with yellow beans Sichuan sauce and wok-fried south Australian cold water lobster with caviar. A delectable choice is the wasabi prawns with big succulent golden chunks lightly battered, fried and tossed with the tingling wasabi cream. In addition, the circular private room upstairs next to the Breeze’s lounge, Ocean 52, offers a vantage point with intimacy.

Chic Restaurants & Bars Bangkok is a compact food and style lover’s bible showcasing Bangkok’s most fabulous venues for dining and drinking. Global gourmand Cheryl Tseng leads you to the capital’s ﬁnest food, and its most striking décor. Each month we take a sneak peek inside, and share a taste here. A deﬁnite must-have for travelling foodies, get yourself a copy of the new 3rd edition at local book shops, or visit www.chicasia.com.

food & drinks

bangkok 101

UNIQUELY TASTY

ThAi wiTh A TwisT Authentic Thai flavours with an Aussie twist.

RESTAURANT

BAR

WYNDHAM THAI

If you appreciate good food and enjoy masticating in memorable surroundings, here are our top tips for unforgettable dining experiences around town. Predictably, the venues listed here come at a price – but, if you’re looking for a priceless experience, you pays your money you makes your choice. A perennial favourite with Bed Supperclub style magazines, Bed Supperclub (Sukhumvit Soi 11) offers dining in the kind of surreal space-age pod George Jetson would approve of. Order artful 4-course meals from a limited menu (B790 on weeknights/B990 at weekends), then recline like a galactic emperor on divan fittings while sexy staff in tight spacesuits and angel wings serve you. Relish eating while high? Then you’re right for Vertigo Grill (South Sathorn Road) alfresco rooftop lounge at The Banyan Tree hotel. This sophisticated Vertigo Grill eatery, set in one of the most architecturally stunning buildings in Bangkok, specialises in top barbecued seafood. After dinner, sup a cocktail in The Moon Bar, the highest alfresco

bar in the Asia Pacific. Looking for glamour and exclusivity? Ultra-stylish Long Table (Column Building, Sukhumvit Long Table Soi 16) is the city’s most recent addition to the city’s designer dining stakes (they also do a pretty mean steak). As its name suggests, there’s a lengthy central bench, where you can rub up to models, celebrities and assorted other local A-listers, if you get a kick out of that sort of thing. For something twee and down-to-earth, aim for It’s Happened to be a Closet (32 Khao San Road or Siam Square). An odd but successful fusion of closet-sized boho boutique with continental restaurant and bakery, shoppers here can chow at a few dinky tables while surrounded by uber-cool trinkets, accessories and Sirocco fashionistas. Make like King Kong, scale the State Tower in search of Sirocco (Silom Road), where sweeping city panoramas extend from atop the second tallest building in Bangkok. Expect quality live jazz, lots of pretty people, and an oyster bar within the prominent golden dome where you can also indulge in Iranian caviar and fine Cuban cigars.

G/Fl., Somerset Lake Point, 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16, Bangkok Tel: 02-258-1783 Fax: 02-258-1784 www.wyndhamthai.com Open 7 days a week Lunch - 11am to 2.30pm Dinner - 6pm to 10.30pm For Taxi: โซเมอร์เซท เลคพอยท์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16 bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

utage

JaPanESE uTAGE (map C3) Plaza Athénée, 3rd Fl, Wireless Rd | 02-650-8500-1 | www.lemeridien. com/bangkok | Mon-Sat 11:30am2:30pm, daily &6pm-10:30pm | $$$$ A reliable way to judge the quality of any ethnic cuisine is to look at the nationality of the customers. And most of the diners at Utage, the Japanese restaurant in the Plaza Athenee hotel, indeed hail from Nippon, drawn by a highly talented Thai chef. The name means “banquet” and its all-you-can-eat lunchtime sushi buffet at B699++ is particularly popular. The simple – to the point of plain – décor lends itself more to business lunches than romantic dinners for two, but with food this good, you’ll be spending more time looking at your plate. The fish and seafood are ﬂown in three times a week from Japan and daily from Scandinavia, and it shows. The matsu sashimi selection (B2,100) includes fantastic fatty tuna and delicate aka gai (red clam), while carnivores will find much to appreciate in the tender grilled beef of the Matsuzaka teppanyaki (B2,300). Not inexpensive, but exceptional.

อูทาเกะ โรงแรมพลาซาแอทธินี ถ.วิทยุ

food & drinks

spewing out from this downhome, honky-tonk rib joint are the sweet aromas of genuine, chop-lickin’ bliss. Hunkered down at the intersection of Surawong and Rama IV Roads, Roadhouse is a carnivores’ pleasure dome. A bustling street level bar/restaurant offers up live music, while a quieter non-smoking dining room is one flight up. A sports bar on the third floor boasts a professional billiards table, a full-length shuffle board, foosball tables and wide-screen TVs.The open-kitchen and its US-made smokers churn out perfectly done ribs, buffalo wings, beef brisket and hickorysmoked chicken. The award-winning beanless Roadhouse Chili – a must-try – features tender steak; grill fans may be partial to the Philly Cheese Steak sandwich or burgers. Save room for a succulent slice of Key Lime pie or their deep-fried vanilla ice cream.

โรดเฮาส บาบิคิว ถ.สุรวงค

iSaan/Lao CAFÉ DE LAoS (map C4) 19 Silom Soi 19 | 02-635-2338 | daily 11am-2pm & 5-10pm | $ So urbane is the globetrotting gourmet who knows their tom kha from their tom yum, and even enjoys a fresh slice of durian. We’ve seen them, the groups of Thai diners scrutinizing the dishes on their table, discussing ingredients, tasting cautiously – and then smacking their lips, digging in, the feasting only interrupted by big satisfied grins. These Thais are on a culinary expedition into Northeastern Thailand, the Isaan, bordering on Laos (hence the name), home of som tam (spicy papaya salad), minced larb dishes and sticky rice. Some call the food’s fiery, simple nature peasant, but we prefer unadulterated. A warm colonial house (and its cute terrace) is the perfect setting for a dizzying gastronomic trip among almost forgotten, often neglected dishes. Some sound adventurous, but this is the ideal place for tongue somersaults.

คาเฟ เดอ ลาว สีลม ซ. 19

bangkok 101

featured

koREan JHonG Lo (map E4) 23/1 Thonglor Soi 20 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-714-9300 | Mon-Thu 11am11:30pm, Fri-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun 11:30am-11pm | $ Love Korean food, but don’t love smelling like a rack of ribs after your repast? Jhong Lo provides a sleek solution to your dry-cleaning woes – this newcomer in trendy Thong Lo grills your barbeque for you, so there’s no sweating over the grill or getting smoke in your hair. The menu offers numerous soups, noodles, rice dishes, and even some Thai food, along with the customary well-marinated Korean cuts for the grill. In keeping with the sleek décor, Jhong Lo doesn’t provide the avalanche of panchan, or side dishes, that diners have come to expect from their Korean restaurants, although the management serve up a select few each week. Look for unusual, satisfying fusion dishes like the kimchee pasta, which cuts the fiery heat of the pickled cabbage with a mellow cream sauce. As for the kimchee itself, it’s the best we’ve had in Bangkok, maybe because it’s brought in straight from Seoul – smoky, funky and pickled with perfect bite.

จองหลอ ทองหลอ ซ.20

bangkok 101

restaurant

CO2

We thought perhaps the name of Park Plaza Hotel’s sleek mezzanine bistro was a wry nod to its location, overlooking car-choked Rachada Road. But after sampling the merchandise we’re now convinced CO2 alludes to on-the-plate chemistry, not exhaust WhERE Park Plaza emissions. The menu offers the usual hi-so Sukhumvit Bangkok 16 mélange of appetizers, sprightly salads rachadapisek rd (map D3) and East/West mains, plus some terrific BTS Asoke, 02-263-5000 Neapolitan-style oven pizzas. But we open daily 24 hrs. Price $, advise you try the fleeting four-course Mediterranean set 500++ Mediterranean Fusion menu – while you still can. Too often fusion foods fall flat amidst artfully presented but incompatible ingredients that lack gusto. “Not so at CO2,” replied the grilled eggplant topped with mango salsa, followed by the delicious, topsy-turvy moussaka. To finish off, the dessert – a Greek rice pudding cut through with strawberry sauce – also caused oral fireworks (not just the expected spark). Would the best of these enhance an already formidable main menu? Maybe. Affable chef Daeng (formerly of Greyhound Cafe) and his open kitchen mean you’re free to offer your opinions. Service is watchful and sharp, lighting bright and natural, and the wine list small but serious. Yes folks, in spite of the often gridlocked setting, and even though Al Gore probably wouldn’t approve, CO2 wins our environmentally friendly seal of approval.

พารค พลาซา สุขุมวิท ตรงขามตึกเอ็กซเชนจทาวเวอร แยกอโศก

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

inDonESian BALI (map C3) 15/3 Soi Ruam Rudee | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-250-0711 | Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, 6pm-9.30pm | $ When Elly Sookdhis took over the kitchen at Bali, the first thing she did was to throw out the sugar and the MSG. In their place, she added familyhoned recipes like her mother’s Tapioca-leaf curry, which manages to be pungent, creamy, and spicily delicious all at once. Elly imports many of her ingredients from Indonesia or grows them in her garden. The beef rendang packs complex ﬂavours into each tender bite, salads crackle with fresh vegetables, and pepper pastes are beguilingly ﬂavoured. Food is made to order, so a bit of patience is advised. The décor tends towards the stark walls/folk whimsy of an ethnic neighbourhood eatery. But nothing can detract from the homey, slowcooked food, the bracing Balinese coffee, or the welcoming charm of its owner, not to mention the fair prices – count us among the regulars.

บาหลี ซ.รวมฤดี

mEXiCan SEÑor PICo (map D4) Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 02-261-7100 | open daily 5pm-1am | www.hotel.rembrandtbkk.com

Bangkok’s first and best known Mexican eatery is a lively, carefree little joint where the waitresses chacha-cha with diners to sprightly Latin melodies from Cuban house band Sol Y Son. Take a table too close to the stage and you might get dragged into proceedings - which could have disastrous consequences for those overstuffed with Tex Mex grub (although an impromptu Technicolor yawn might be greeted as a gaudy addition to the vibrant décor). As you can probably deduce, this informal, family-friendly joint isn’t recommended for those seeking a quiet heart-to-heart or pursuing a makeor-break business deal. But get stuck in to the rich array of fajitas, enchiladas, and suchlike, and you’ll find that, much like the fare dished up, Señor Pico is endearingly sloppy round the edges – but undeniably tasty.

ซินยอร ปโก รร. เรมแบรนดท สุขุมวิท ซ. 18

food & drinks

Señor Pico

beauty queen, refugee and (I’m not making this up) FBI agent Meyung Robson. Her days hunting down bad guys may be behind her, but Meyung is still ahead of the game when it comes to sumptuous grub like chao tom (shrimp on sugarcane) and classic pho noodles. A homey ten-table affair, Xuan Mai is usually packed with eager diners, and while the menu is trim and tidy, Meyung is happy to accommodate special requests. Things to look out for include the mouth-watering fish, which is cooked right at your table, and fantastically hot and crispy cha gio spring rolls. A delight.

ซวนมายด สุขุมวิท ซ.13

bangkok 101

RIVER DINING CRUISES A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental).Whether you are manohra looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last 2-3 hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations. ■ aPSaRa BanYan TREE BanGkok 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com ■ Chao PhRaYa CRuiSE 02-541-5599 | www.chaophrayacruise.com ■ GRanD PEaRL CRuiSE 02-861-0255 | www.grandpearlcruise.com ■ hoRiZon CRuiSE The Shangri-La | 02-266-8165-6 | www.shangri-la.com ■ LoY naVa 02-437-4932 | www.loynava.com ■ maEYananG The oriental Hotel | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com ■ manohRa CRuiSES 02-477-0770 | www.manohracruises.com ■ Wan Fah 02-222-8679 | www.wanfah.com ■ Yok YoR 02-863-0565 | www.yokyor.co.th

Flow

Grand Pearl

DinnER ShoWS

Why not kill two birds with one stone and stuff yourself with culture as well as food, by taking in a culturepromoting dinner show at one of these featured restaurants? Some Thai dancing is very slow, elaborate and mesmerising, while the more folksy stuff offers livelier rhythms. Alongside a good range of Thai dishes,The oriental’s popular Sala Rim nam (02-437-2918), on the river, offers a daily classical dance show performed by Bangkok’s Department of Fine Arts at 8.30pm (you can take the dedicated shuttle service from the Saphan Thaksin pier furthest to the left-hand side). other, similarly beguiling affairs are also staged at The Chao Phraya Cultural Centre (02-258-5403) on the riverside close to Sathorn Bridge, and The Piman Theatre (02-258-7861) on Sukhumvit. Innovative performing arts company, The Patravadi Theatre (02-442-2020), offers classical and contemporary dinner shows fusions, also beside the river. Locales include: its own Studio 9 (02-4127287) at 7.30pm on Fridays and Saturdays; the Supatra River house (02-411-0305) next door at 8.30pm on Saturdays; and the Millennium Hilton’s Flow (02-4422000), an exclusive weekly show at 8.30pm on Thursdays that’s creatively choreographed to match each course. Sala Rim nam

bangkok 101

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

indus

inDian InDuS (map D4) 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-258-4900 | www. indusbangkok.com | Wed-Mon 11am10:30pm | all cards | $ Indians make up a big portion of the expats in Bangkok, thus the scarcity of good Indian restaurants in the city may come as a surprise. Thankfully, we’ve had Indus for more than two years. It’s quite a cosmopolitan place with rich sub-continental adornments though we favour the sloping outside seating in the large sloping garden, complete with an Indian Haveli and tables hidden

by verdant ﬂora. Equally hidden is the cool bar in the back, successfully blending New York extravagance and Moroccan panache, masculine leather sofas perfect for smoking that shisha. The menu focuses on exquisite Northern Indian cuisine (rich tikka massala, mutton curry, perfect dahl, and naan to die for) but also includes Thai food; the vegetarian selection is huge. The impressive interior may invoke steep prices, but most dishes hover around B120 each. This is lowcost luxury at its best. Take a cab from the BTS (skytrain) station.

อินดัส สุขุมวิท 26

dim-sum featured

ROYAL KITCHEN

WhERE 912/6 Sukhumvit 55, opp. soi Thonglo 25 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-3919634, 02-714-8548 | WhEn oPEn 11am-2pm (for dim sum), 5:30pm-1am| PRiCE $

food & drinks

Standing for a quarter century in arguably Bangkok’s most famous and hippest soi this old favourite has long been dishing out Chinese food for locals. Despite the trendy Thong lo locale the clientele is generally large Thai-Chinese families on weekends. The Dim Sum menu available veers to very classic items so don’t expect anything other than the norm. Service is uneven with some of the wait staff wearing smiles upside down, though the damage is very minimal with dishes averaging around B45, so you can shrug it all off when the bill comes.

รอยัล คิทเชน สุขุมวิท 55 (ตรงขาม ซ. ทองหลอ 25)

bangkok 101

runching is big in Bangkok. All ﬁve-star hotels and respectable cafés do them. Some are kidfriendly, others are strictly adult.you can get tipsy at some, while others focus on music. Curing a hangover? need to eat al fresco? We offer you a sampling of Bangkok’s best.

Stand Alone Brunch Venues

Lavish Hotel Brunch Buffets

featured

brunch

brunching

CHESA

While the food at Chesa’s Swiss brunch looks fantastically fattening, the small, full-flavored portions keep bloat at bay. Instead of languishing under heat lamps or steam trays, individual items are prepared in the kitchen and brought out as they’re ready – a welcome concept that keeps everything fresh and high quality. The spread’s not cheap, but defi nitely feels worth the price. You can order whole fl ights of dishes from an expansive all-you-can-eat menu – raclette cheese with rôsti potatoes, smoked salmon with zippy-smooth horseradish cream, and foie gras are among the winners. Follow those weekend whims and get one of each item on the menu, or twelve rounds of the same dish – the food just keeps coming, with nary an eyebrow raised. Atmosphere is cottage-y cute, but La Chesa’s popularity with guffawing Continental gents may make it less than serene. Luckily the restaurant is big enough for you to retreat into your corner and eat as much of the hand-hewn roast as you like. Wait staff are cheerful with explanations and quickly whisk away all those tiny plates before they turn into a pile of embarrassing evidence. Make sure to leave room for dessert – the rhubarb and the silky rich chocolate mousse are must-orders. Super satisfying.

รานอาหารสวิส เชซา สุขุมวิท ซ.20

WhERE 5 Sukhumvit Soi 20 BTS Asoke (map D3), 02-261-6650, www.chesa-swiss.com oPEn Sunday Brunch 11am-3pm PRiCE 1,200++ for adults and 680++ for children (age under 12)

food & drinks

Food&Drinks

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea

featured

WHITTARD OF CHELSEA

This venerable tea company – established circa 1886 – is more English than a rainy Saturday afternoon on Wigan Pier. However, connoisseurs expecting the afternoon high tea ritual from Whittard of Chelsea beware. Conspicuously absent from this open-plan setup on the gleaming ground floor of Siam Paragon are those classic tea-time leitmotifs – spouted teapots and scone-brimming snack tiers. On the plus side, Whittard’s high-grade blends are among the most palate pleasing and quickening we’ve tasted – and arrive in mugs harbouring a nifty plastic tea-leaf strainer (no drippy teabags!). Take to a low-slung Victorian garden chair beneath a navy-blue umbrella. Order a robust Darjeeling or a light and smoky Earl Grey. The damp English country garden décor veers towards colonial kitsch. But, when leaning back and cradling your full-bodied cuppa, the affectation is still a soothing stress reliever. WhERE Siam Paragon Beside all the classic brews, the tea list caters G Fl. (map C3) BTS Siam, comprehensively for new-wave slurpers. Do try 02-610-7519 oPEn daily one of their funky flavoured teas and quirky fruit/ 10am-10pm PRiCE $ herbal infusions. Hot or iced. ‘Sacrilege!’ sprang to mind when we were served an apple crumble tealatte – but, we admit, with hints of cinnamon and vanilla, they’re undeniably quaffable. Especially when teamed with a slice of wickedly decadent strawberry cheesecake. Those dissatisfied with this tea-shop Darwinism – the set-up is clearly adapted to suit quick stop-and-slurp shoppers – can quench their nostalgia thirst by buying loose-leaf packs and teapot sets from the adjoining shop. Whittard are moving with the times… but that doesn’t mean you have to.

สยามพารากอน

food & drinks

High Teas

■ Sukhumvit Gazebo Sukhumvit Soi 1 | 02-655-2475-6 | BTS Phloen Chit Funky Thai and Global tapas until the wee hours.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either. Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you.

Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-3919634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu.

Mayompuri 22 Chakraphong Rd | 02-629-3883 | until 1am | www.mayompuri.com Garden dining amidst colonial architecture has both Thai and Western dishes.

■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02-238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half Restaurant Half Art Gallery with Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

Tom Yum Kung 9 Trokmayom | Off Khao San Rd. towards Police Station (Look for the big sign) | 02-629-1818 | until 2am | www. tomyumkungkhaosan.com Reasonably priced Thai food.

Coyote on Convent Sivadon Building | 1/2 Convent Rd | 02631-2325 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Tex-Mex Fare with an endless list of Margaritas.

The Old Pra Athit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier.

late-night dining

hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm. So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling? No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times. Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling pp.94-95) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.62). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Sunrise Tacos

Bug and Bee 18 Silom Rd. | 02-233-8118 | BTS Sala Daeng | open 24 hours | www.bugandbee.com Four storey café offers up Thai and Fusion dishes like curried crab crêpes. bangkok 101

Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | www.silkbars.com Thai and International Food food & drinks

Bug and Bee

Food&Drinks

sweet treats

ookies, cakes, pies, oh my! Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

KA-NOM

Selling humble kanom – sweet snacks – in a snazzy modern house smacks slightly of pomposity; as does brazenly calling the venture Ka-nom. Fortunately however, though the décor of this glass-plated modern house on Sukhumvit 49 veers towards being fancy schmancy, there’s nothing over-egged about its tarts, pastries and cakes. Don’t waste too long staking out your spot amidst the coloured Perspex WhERE 122 Soi klang chairs; nor ogling the high-end Sukhumvit 49 (mapE4) BTS Thong assortment of skiving students, Lo, 02-391-2428 oPEn Tue-Sun Japanese housewives and groomed 9:30am-9pm, Mon 9:30am-6pm ofﬁce starlets. Many of Ka-nom’s PRiCE B20-80 prized hunger-busters ﬂy off the shelves faster than they can bake ‘em – so move quickly. Best of the tartlets are the rapturous egg tarts. With their captivating crème brûlée-like custard, these top-sellers prove once and for all that the best things do, indeed, come in small (puff-pastry) packaging. The moist chocolate cake and soft and doughy pa tong go, complete with a funky coloured cream dip, were also good enough to get our taste-buds singing, our stomachs purring in approval – proof that, despite the designer packaging, Ka-nom is no cake-shop charlatan. Think high-end snacks meet aspirational hi-so setting.

รานขนม สุขุมวิท 49

food & drinks

bangkok 101

angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of ﬁve-star hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets. featured

all you can eat

ORCHID CAFÉ

buffet

“This place is colossal!” is your first thought on entering the Orchid Café, a mothership-sized dome diner on the reception level of the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. But who’s complaining? A huge restaurant may not bode well for intimacy; but it does bode well for a huge spread. And lo and behold, that’s exactly what aspiring gluttons face here: a banquet-sized round table crammed with high-end foods. Orbiting this small gastronomic planet – plate in hand, eyes agog – reveals a smorgasbord of international and Asian-ish fare. Asparagus with tartar sauce, scallops in blood orange sauce, pastas, curries, salads, a fabulously juicy and flaky choo chee pla salmon… Seriously, you can WhERE Sheraton Grande do laps of this beauty and never see the same Sukhumvit (mapD3) BTS Asok dish twice. 02-649-8888 oPEn 11:30amLone buffet stations floating in the far corner 2:30pm & 6:30pm-10:30pm include a Japanese sushi bar (feel that melt-inPRiCE Lunch B760++, Dinner your-mouth sashimi); a cooking-station serving (Mon-Thu) B1,050++, Dinner tender roast lamb alongside noodles, satay Seafood (Fri - Sun) B1,250++ and dim sum (including top-notch sala paow); a groaning dessert station (sublime panna cotta with dry figs), as well as a cheeseboard (God bless you Gorgonzola!). We’d struggle to call this the best in town – some of the Thai dishes lack zing, soft drinks don’t come included – but at B780 this decadent devouring, for sheer gut-busting depth and breadth alone, is hard to disparage. Yes, this one’s a colossus.

รร. เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท ถ. สุขุมวิท

BUFFET VENUES

■ THE MED The Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | daily 6am-11pm | Breakfast Buffet: 6:00am-10:30am B650++, Lunch Buffet: noon-2:30pm B750++, Dinner Buffet: 6:00pm-10:30 B1,050++ ■ DInInG rooM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ CoLonnADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02bangkok 101

■ LorD JIM’S BuFFET Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code. ■ THE BrASSErIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 nett, dinner B824nett, Friday Seafood Night B941nett For full address, see hotel listings pp.106-107

Food&Drinks

wine

Siam Winery

featured

wıne bar BACCHUS

Owned by a Japanese sommelier with a keen penchant for style, Bacchus’s attractive list of 10 wines by the glass priced B220-390 changes every month. Think household names such as Los Vascoe, Illuminati, Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir and Penfold’s Bin 8. Matching the wines, an extensive snack and tapas menu ranges from nibbles to more substantial Italian-inspired dishes. A walk- in glass wine cellar behind WhERE 20/6-7 ruam rudee, the bar joins an amazing collection Ploenchit (map C3), 02-650of very rare whisky from both 8986, www.bacchus.tv BTS Scotland and Japan – East meets Ploenchit oPEn 5 pm-1 am West for spiritual guidance. Despite the name, Bacchus is really more a restaurant than a wine bar.

แบคคัส รวมฤดี ถ.เพลินจิต

food & drinks

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex ﬂavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle ﬂavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

941 Sukhumvit Rd. Between Sukhumvit 51-53 Mon - Sat 5.30 PM - 1 AM

Live Band Tue - Sat 8 PM - Midnight For Reservation Tel: 02-662-7605

A taste of New Orleans...

Bourbon St. Restaurant & Bar Serving up Asia’s ﬁnest Cajun and Creole cuisine since 1986.

Intimate. Stylish. Affable. Original. Innovative, modern sushi. Friendly, informal service. Chic ambience.

“A must when you visit Thailand.” Newsweek Fixin’ breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7am-1am crawﬁsh gumbo ■ jambalaya ■ blackened redﬁsh ■

■ Mexican

■

■ Fine

buffet every Tuesday cognac and cigars ■ Oyster bar ■ Wireless Internet

Boutique apartments available daily or monthly 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (behind Mambo Theatre, Washington Square) Tel: 02-259-0328/9 Fax: 02-259-4318 www.bourbonstbkk.com

MON-FRI: 11:00am-2:30pm / 5:30pm-10:00pm SAT-SUN: 11:00am-10:00pm 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31 (Soi Sawasdee) Tel: 02-258-0645~6 www.isaotaste.com

nightlife

one night in bangkok DJ Cavo

Silom area

spots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed angkok’s vibrant nightlife scene offers an infinite “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major supperclub (p.82) lead the way thoroughfare and its myriad in international-style nightlife. A number of options to choose from – far too many to list here. adjoining sois, hosts many of more colourful side of Bangkok nightlife shines in Sukhumvit’s For a quiet pint of ale and pot of the city’s best nightspots.” two adult entertainment zones beef stew, there are Irish- and English-themed pubs, popular amongst homesick expa- – nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and soi Cowboy (btw Sois triates and sports junkies. Live music fans are also well 21&23) – filled with neon-lit go-gos. Other notable hot spots include Banglamphu (p86), catered for at a number of jazz, blues and rock venues. Alternatively, trendy bars and cocktail lounges attract the backpacker enclave along legendary Khao san Road the well-heeled and beautiful for slick drinks and cut- and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra athit Road. ting-edge design. Bangkok’s legendary club scene and North-east of the Sukhumvit area, Royal City avenue its international guest DJs offer excellent opportunities – or RCa – is a lively strip of bars and clubs where hordes of young Thais congregate on weekends. to party, whatever your persuasion. The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its true The lively silom/sathorn commercial district is a throbbing nightlife centre. From sophisticated cocktail potential as a nightlife centre, however, many of the city’s lounges to Patpong’s glaring go-go bars, there’s some- top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, Millenthing for everyone. The city’s gay scene is also busiest nium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fi ve-star here, with the highest concentration of options centred cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views of around silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier surawong the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.88. On the following pages we list the top of the crop Road. sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare and its – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to night myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s best nightclubs – to help you achieve that perfect night out.

nightlife

bangkok 101

nightlife

Bed Supperclub Image by Marcus Gortz

nightclubs

Clubbing in Bangkok? stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; ofﬁcially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am. the legal drinking age is 20. all patrons must carry proof. no iD, no entry. no joke. and as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no.

Bed Supperclub

BED sUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past five year s, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over top-class world talent (including some very eclectic ar t) for special events. Tuesday’s Hip Hop party packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with tribal house music. Sunday is ‘Think Pink’ and features a colourful Burlesque show.

เบด ซัปเปอรคลับ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

Q BaR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com nightly 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka on offer!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife eight years ago and is still going strong, with a crowd every night and many big-name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Beat Therapy hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Liquid Thursday’s Funky House. Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the newly renovated bar/ lounge. Some relative solitude can be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather and people watching.

คิว บาร ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11 nightlife

thE CLUB (map a2-3) 123 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-1010 | www.theclubkhaosan.com | free The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers will be amazed to find they’ve entered a castle on Khao San Road.The spiral staircase to the central DJ platform and sky-high windows give a fairy-tale vibe that would make Rapunzel want to let her hair down and hang loose. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house with a B300500 entry fee for special events from psy-trance to breakbeat to global DJs. Ladies’ night on Thursdays treats the crowd to live percussion, while a saxophonist jazzes it up on Fridays. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and dancers entertain on Friday and Saturday nights.The Club aims to raise the stakes on the Khao San strip with plans for an outdoor monitor that will stream live action from the naughty goings-on inside.

เดอะ คลับ ถ. ขาวสาร

taPas (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | nightly 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4, Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For 14 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live percussion sets as well. Multi-levelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-or-miss, but weekends are always packed and hopping.

ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4

bangkok 101

twisted Republic

thE tUnnEL (map C3) Lang Suan Soi 5 | nightly 10pm-till late Bangkok’s late-night venues equal adventure and The Tunnel, growing by word-of-mouth, screamed from clubber to clubber, is no exception. Flash your ID at the harmless hulks on the door to enter a crypt-style hangout that’s filled with a veritable who’s who of the vampire social scene. There’s ample dancing space and a DJ pod in the middle of the dance ﬂoor. A sweet sound system and switchedon DJs blasting progressive house and electro ensure club-goers won’t be disappointed. It’s house music all the way but the tune selection is a cut above the usual stuff that passes for dance music in other venues. Expect guest appearances from classy, European DJs. The entry fee includes one or two drinks. Choose from beers, whiskey, cocktails and more. Turn up around midnight and you’ll usually get to dance until the wee hours.

เดอะ ทันนัล หลังสวน ซ. 5

tWistED REPUBLiC (map D3) 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-6510800 | Mon-Sun 9pm-3am | www. twistedrepublic.com Twisted Republic is the newest addition to the Sukhumvit Soi 11club scene. Clearly a club opened for clubbers by clubbers, it features a one-of-a-kind, touch-sensitive “interactive” projection bar. The gleaming glass pillars stand tall against an ar tificial waterfall and the interior statement says something between chic jazz lounge and cosmopolitan boutique residence. The music is well complemented by the euphoric décor, with electronica, break beat, hip hop and progressive house sets blasting out amongst a litter of lasers. The best local and international DJs can be found gracing the decks of the city’s newest clubbing utopia. Entrance is B500 with two free drinks included.

ทวิสท รีพับลิค สุขุมวิท ซ.11

GLOW(map D4) 96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-3007 | www.glowbkk.com | nightly 6pm-1am This boutique club / bar / lounge challenges Bangkok’s biggies when it comes to delivering innovative music from the world of electronic pleasures. An intimate, stylish cave is decked out in dark walls, funky seating, innovative lighting and a dramatic bar. The music palette changes night-to-night but always excludes hip-hop (hurrah!). For details and regular updates, check Glow’s cool website.

โกลว ถ. สุขุมวิท ซ. 23

CLUB CULtURE (map C3) Sri Ayutthaya Rd (opp. Siam City Hotel) | BTS Phaya Thai | 08-9497-8422 | www.club-culture-bkk.com | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am | B400 (incl. 2 drinks) Club Culture comes from the owners of the online clubbers’ guide, Buzzin’ Mag and Café Democ. Climb carpeted steps, pass through a curtained stairwell and you’ll enter a space where chandeliers and Thai wood carvings hang from the ceiling. Strategically placed structures, great for resting an elbow or a drink, dot the open-plan dance ﬂoor, surrounded by plush sofas and stools. It’s a beautiful building but the toilets lack a little finesse. This modish, 1,000-capacity club attracts a cross-cultural mix of trendy Thais and expats and the diversity is mirrored in the music policy. They aim to promote new talent, while still bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of break beat, electronica, trance, indie rock, drum ‘n’ bass and house music of all genres.

คลับ คัลเจอร ถ. ศรีอยุธยา

bangkok 101

the club

nightlife

hotel nightclubs BaRsU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; in-house DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. As gimmicks go, this one surely takes the cake (or, rather, the featherlight crème brûlée). In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it.While you’re still getting your head round one sly culinary twist (warm tom yum kung jelly, anyone?) you’re hit with yet another gastronomic slight of hand. The imaginative presentation throughout echoes the innovation of the dishes, and won’t murder your wallet. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

บารสุ รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท

87+

87+ (map C3) Conrad Hotel, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.87bangkok.com | daily 9pm2am The Conrad’s 87+ caters well to its upscale hotel guests. It features a pumping band doing the latest covers, and DJs playing a mixture of quality house music and commercial hip hop and R&B. Look out for the irregularly run Bhangra Nights with steamy Indian beats. Attached to 87+ is italianate, a very good Italian restaurant with interesting décor. Start off the night listening to a set of worldclass live jazz in the Diplomat Bar, and afterwards stroll across the lobby to 87+ to take advantage of one of Bangkok’s great late happy hours, nightly from 8pm to 10pm.

87 พลัส รร. คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

nightlife

syn BaR (map C3) Lobby Level, Nai Lert Park Swissotel 2 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02253-0123 | daily 6pm-2am This swanky hotel hangout does raise some bars, especially when it comes to style.You’ll spend half an hour taking it all in – the suspended, translucent bubble chairs, the amorphous couches, the ornate lighting. The completely glass-encased bar screams retro-future. Think 1960s ovalism, 1970s ﬂuidity.The vast drinks menu lists a lot of signature cocktails, though the Asian-inspired martinis and spicy creations (like the Wasabi Mary, one of our personal faves) are way better than the Seven Deadly Syns. Syn Bar is considerably less crowded than other hotel nightclubs, which is not necessarily something bad.

ซิน บาร รร. ปารคนายเลิศ ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

Latin Rhythms

Bangkok’s riding high on the Latin wave. People crowd salsa and tango dance classes and shake it at steaming parties. Inexpensive La Rueda is a small, salsa-only venue with lots of atmosphere, especially on Thursday, Señor Pico Friday and Saturday nights, when you can salsa with DJ Jorge from Mexico from 10pm to 1am. Dance lessons take place every Tuesday (pulsating zouk from 8-10pm) and Thursday to Saturday nights (sexy salsa from 7:30-10pm). The salsa social has taken off at several venues around town as a relaxed way to learn the moves and meet other salsa enthusiasts. RumPUREE World Dance Studio offers a New York Salsa Social every first and third Saturday of the month (69pm); Salsa Hacha Fusion Café and Dance Studio holds theirs on Wednesdays and Sundays (7-11pm); Tapas Bar on Tuesdays (7-10pm); Tamarind Café on Sunday afternoons from 2-7pm; and Señor Pico on Wednesdays night. If you’ve already got skills (or just enough margaritas) under your belt and you’re ready to hit the clubs, Noriega’s, a small, unpretentious straight venue in a mostly gay soi, is teeming with a hot, fun, adult crowd on Sunday and Wednesday nights when the DJ pumps out Latin tunes. Barsu, at the Grand Sheraton, has DJ Greco from Cuba spinning out salsa, samba and African rhythms from 10pm-1am on Thursdays. DJ Greco also takes it to posh Bed Supperclub on Wednesdays, where he hosts his Salsa Revolucion. If tango is what you’re after, hightail it over to Mediterraneo for their Milonga (tango dance party) nights on Monday (classes welcome beginners from 730-830pm), HOPS on Fridays from 6-830pm, Flava at Dream Hotel from 7:30-11pm on Sundays or Siam@Siam Hotel on Thursdays. The Summer Mansion also hosts a Tango Practica every Thursday as well as a Milonga night every fourth Saturday of the month. For more details, check out www.salsabangkok.com and www. tangobangkok.com. n La Rueda Sukhumvit Soi 18 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-9669 n Rumpuree World Dance Studio Amarin Plaza, 5th Fl

nightlife

Wednesday nights are “Muchachas Nights” with 50% off all Magarita cocktails for ladies from 21.00 hrs. onwards. Dance. Dance. Dance. !

nightlife

bars CaFÉ tRiO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-252-6572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars. Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place.The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnameseinspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home. Resident regulars come for live jazz (on an irregular schedule, often toward the end of the month). For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues.The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟทริโอ ซ. หลังสวน

ChEaP ChaRLiE’s (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am Bangkok’s most bizarre bar is little more than a wooden shack with a couple of barstools surrounding it, a makeshift kiosk really. Every night, an eclectic mix of tourists and foreign residents populates the stools – be prepared to stand. The prices are unbelievably low – you can get a G&T for B60, while beer sells for B50. No girlie bar, the unique place is heavily stuffed with oddities collected over the 20 years this Bangkok institution’s been in operation. Buffalo skulls, beehives, tribal masks and sex toys hang down from rafters, while the bar is stocked with an impressive range of alcohol. Beware to ‘only piss in toilets’, as one sign warns you. Ask the patrons about the bar’s countless myths. Go down Soi 11 and take the first left. The perfect place to while away some boozy hours amidst experienced barﬂies.

ชีพ ชารลยี  ถ. สุขมุ วิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

WOnG’s PLaCE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02-286-1558 | MRT Lumphini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late Quentin Tarantino would love this quirky late-night watering hole. On the block for 20 years and a must for music geeks, there’s not a working girl in sight, not even a waitress.Two fridges stocked with cheap drinks invite a self-service and pay-as-you-go honour system. Wong’s Place is known to Bangkok old-timers and it’s not uncommon to find guests revisiting the bar for the first time in years with travel stories to tell and looking for their photo on the wall. Owner Sam Wong inherited and extended his brother’s love for music videos, everything from 1950s jazz through punk to MTV-inﬂuenced babel. Wong’s houses the largest known collection in Asia, if not globally.Take his opening hours with a grain of salt:Wong opens when the mood fits.

วองส เพลส ซ. งามดูพลี

OnE niGht in BANGLAMPHU (map a2) the streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of city execs, thai students and travellers. a neat Khao san cocktail joint is hidden in a small side street and clad in eclecticism and cool kitsch. Sunset Street is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Cooler clubs include stylishly furnished Lava, a popular basement joint playing speedy house and hip hop. café democ, a faux-Euro club turning out electronic music, attracts a hip but unpretentious older clique. For a laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby riverside along phra athit Road, lined with little bars,trendy cafés and hole-in-the-wall restaurants.Often compared with nyC’s GreenwichVillage and London’s high street Kensington, it’s a favorite for youngthais going “beat” and the odd expat. stop for a cheap caffeine intake at coffee & more in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclecticthai food at rock-bottom prices. minimalist but friendly Bar Bali and tiny Joy Luck club deserve a mention. For outstanding seafood and absolutely no flair, check out thon po. Directly on the riverside, this breezy place offers fantastic views and delicious ﬁsh and crustaceans from an expansive menu. Call ahead to reserve a riverfront spot. coFFee & moRe 102/1 Phra athit Rd, sun-thur 10am-10pm, Fri & sat-midnight HemLocK 56 Phra athit Rd, 02-282-7507, mon-Fri 4pm-midnight, sat 5pm-midnight BaR BaLi 58 Phra athit Rd, 02-629-0418, daily 5pm-11.30pm JoY LucK cLuB 8 Phra sumen Rd, 02-280-3307, daily 11am-1am tHon po 43 Phra athit Rd, 02-280-0452, daily 11am-10pm Hippie de BaR 46 Khao san Rd, daily 10am-1am Lava 249 Khao san Road, 02-281-6565, daily 8pm-1am caFé democ Ratchadamnoen Rd at Democracy monument,02-622 -2571,tue-sun 4pm-1am

nightlife

bangkok 101

the glaz Bar

thE GLaZ BaR (map C3) Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Méridien Hotel Wireless Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-650-8800, ext. 4324 | www.lemeridien. com/bangkok | daily 11am-2am This stylish multi-functional conglomerate of lounge/bar/restaurant is a neat place along embassy row to down a few fab cocktails. In cosily dim tones, the bar is complemented on one side by a massive all-glass wall (you see where they got the name from).The Glaz Bar is a great spot to sample innovative thai tapas, all the better paired with wines from their solid list of old world, new world and a respectable selection of Thailand’s own “new latitude” wines. Their monthly “After Work Cocktails and Cones” event (B550/pp nett) draws a chic crowd of social high ﬂiers who come for clever canapés and creative top-shelf cocktails. Next chance is September 18th, 6:30pm-8:30pm

รร. พลาซา แอทธินี ถ. วิทยุ

Rain DOGs (map C4) 16 Soi Phraya Phiren, Rama 4 Rd | 081-720-6989 (Jum), 087-055-9407 (Cartoon) | 9pm till late Though rain dogs are poor mutts who lose the scent of home in the rain, it’s the humans who forget where home is after frequenting this bar, where half the pleasure is in finding the bar in the first place. A human-sized birdcage, pond and collage-like décor add to Rain Dogs’ character, while windows and patio doors blur the line between indoor and outdoor space. Though DJs and salsa nights are featured on occasion, the music policy is mainly DIY: bring your iPod to plug in and play, request what you want to hear or start your own jam session on the drums.The vibe swings pleasantly between rowdy and chilled and the Thai indie kid/artsy expat clientele can choose from an array of inexpensive beers and spirits.

GaZEBO (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 1 | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-655-2475~6 | 7pm till late This airy rooftop bar’s remarkable Moroccan-style makeover has made it a popular alternative in the Sukhumvit area nightlife scene. Past the street front tuxedoed bouncers you go, along a lengthy, dim-lit corridor. A quick elevator boost to the fourth floor later, and Gazebo unfurls its multifarious charms. Turn right for the outdoor lounge: a melange of low tables, silky cushions, ornate flickering Egyptian lamps, and billowing drapes. Kick back with a dark grape-flavoured sheesha, choose from a range of innovative, multi-cultural tapas and check out the eclectic mix of live music. Heading left, slick nightclub The Harem offers a more upbeat, DJ-fuelled groove – although the seating sanctuary just begs you to cosy up among the plush cushions for an intimate heart-to-heart. You can expect this joint to pulse until the early morning hours. Downstairs, there are designs for a boutique-style Japanese love hotel, plus complementary lifestyle accoutrements. Watch this space – preferably from within it.

กาเซโบ สุขุมวิท ซ. 1

เรนดอกส ซ. พระยาพิเรนทร ถ. พระราม 4

SARASIN ROAD (map c3)

It sure is fun to hang in Bangkok’s hopping hoods, but sometimes the throngs around RCA, Khao San and Silom Soi 4 get too much. The hippest youngsters (and the ones looking young) congregate on a short strip just north of Lumphini Park, a stone’s throw away from Silom. Trendy Singaporeans have discovered the western end of Sarasin Road as a playground, but only a few Caucasians venture here. The educated, fun-seeking masses of all sexual orientations are nice enough to strike up a conversation with, the music is fun, prices are low – it’s the perfect place for a relaxed night out. Even Monday nights see these small bars well-peopled; they’re heaving on weekends. Start your night out early at The Room. Two-ﬂoored and airy, with funky décor and richly colored walls, it sports the strip’s best food – fun fusion dishes for okay prices. Later, it ﬁlls up with glam guys and house beats. 70s Bar is quite homo-friendly, and celebrates 70s and 80s tunes plus Euro Pop. Eclectic seating is worth a look inside. Zarazine does cheesy live music while 2nd Round and Bard are heavily hetero and focus on hip hop. Upstairs I-Chub is the place for clubby boys and their fans to do some karaoke. Brown Sugar, one of Bangkok’s top live jazz venues, is the most mature of the bunch. Each bar puts out tables on the pavement, creating an almost European feel beneath the trees and offering perfect people-watching, especially at 1am when the lights go on and everybody streams out on the street. bangkok 101

nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-ﬁlled streets? Fancy a breather? take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

threesixty

thREEsiXty (map B4) 32nd Fl Millennium Hilton |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | daily 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be part of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya. Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd ﬂoor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osietra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

ทรีซิกตี้ รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

nEst (map D3) Le Fenix 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-305-4000, www.lefenix-sukhumvit.com | nightly 5pm-2am How low can the rooftop bar go? Pretty darn low says the sensepiquing success of Nest, an open-air hangout on the ninth ﬂoor of the ultra-sleek Le Fenix Hotel. Despite a lack of loftiness – skyscrapers sprawl around you, not below you – the views are intoxicating. And then there’s the management’s lust for all things loungy. Fan-enhanced breezes and smooth Balearic sounds waft across a lush, barely-lit Zen garden spotted with pathways, palms and intimate seating areas. Snuggle with your lovebird on the Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs; or bring your glampacker pals for some pre-club Manuka Mules and Tapas-y snacks, before you swoop down to nearby Bed Supperclub or Q Bar.

รร.เลอฟนิกซ สุขุมวิท ซ.11

nightlife

sKy BaR / DistiL (map B3/4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02-6249555 | www.thedomebkk.com | daily 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seafood eater y Breeze, Ocean 52 spor ts yet another stunning view from the 51st-52nd floors. These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart-casual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร ถ. สีลม

bangkok 101

Long table

V9 (map C4) 37th Fl Soﬁtel Silom | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | daily 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee. The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe. The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the ﬂoor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

วีนาย รร. โซฟเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

mOOn BaR (map C4) 61st Fl Banyan Tree Bangkok | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | daily 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart bangkok 101

surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

มูนบาร รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

thE ROOF tOP (map C3) 83rd Fl Baiyoke Sky Hotel | 222 Rajaprarop Rd | 02-656-3000 | www.baiyokehotel.com Perched above it all, the view is the best and seemingly only draw at this aging and very campy sky-high watering hole. Step off the elevator and it’s like you’ve been transported to outer space. That is if outer space had tutti-frutti coloured walls. Passable cocktails and the loungy live cover band won’t distract you from what really makes this place really worth visiting: the sprawling metropolis below. For full-screen Bangkok, take the stairs, pass the kitschy solar system nightlife

murals and extra-terrestrials (yes, seriously) up to the 84th ﬂoor and let the wind hit you in the face on the open-air revolving deck and try to spot the now ant-sized malls you were in earlier.

เดอะรูฟทอป รร.ใบหยกสกาย ถ. ราชปรารถ

LOnG taBLE (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-302-2557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | daily 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 ﬂoors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-ﬂying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas A Sukhumvit high point.

เดอะลองเทเบิ้ล สุขุมวิท 16 (สามมิตร)

nightlife

hotel jazz clubs thE LiVinG ROOm (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com | daily 10am12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s still a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band. Be prepared to be well-entertained.World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Until Sep 14,The Living Room plays host to alice Day and Donald Jackson and Koh mr. saxman from September 16-28. performing every Tuesday through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am. You can also catch this spectacular act during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch each week.

ลิฟวิ่งรูม รร. เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท

Bamboo Bar

BamBOO BaR (map B4) The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights this month catch the sultry sounds of San Francisco’s Denise thimef. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon. A definite big Bangkok must.

แบมบูบาร รร.โอเรียลเต็ล ถ. โอเรียลเต็ล

nightlife

DiPLOmat BaR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar. Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buy-one-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. Monday through Saturday nights, catch Filipinos versatile jazz diva Kate Pen. ดิพโพลแมทบาร รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

bangkok 101

or a night of clubbing, Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say ‘RCA’ to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and wellcoiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling mega-clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for the indecisive club-goer. Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunt a different genre of music.

RCA

SLim Daily 7pm-2am | 02-203-0377~8 Superclub Slim’s full-on hip-hop zone is never short on chic crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie. The other room offers live Thai music in a more sane social setting.

oLd Leng Free Entry | 02-203-0972 A rickety wooden bar with vintage Chinese adverts covering the distressed walls and a decent band banging out Thai hits in a corner. Don’t come to party. Come to chow down and sink a few, before you go party. Zeta Free Entry (women only) | 02-2030994 | www.zetabangkok.com Girls only at this trendy lesbian bar with live music. No men, gay men, drag queens or peeping Toms allowed.

a c

Route 66 Daily 7pm-2am | Free Entry | 02203-0936 | www.route66club.com Seething with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, superclub ‘Route’ boasts an all-white American retro feel and ﬂashes of gothic glam. Go ‘North’ for house beats, ‘West’ for hip-hop R&B, ‘East’ for live-music and out front for a cool alfresco zone with low cushion seating and synchronized music videos.

nightlife

tHe BoX What it says on the tin: a box of a bar with an industrial, exposed-brick look and intimate danceﬂoor. Occasionally hosts one-off events.

PEtChaBURi ROaD

LOCaL ROaD

Rama9 ROaD

a c

FLiX Daily 7pm-2am | Free Entry | 02-203-0377~8 Enjoy base thumping electro house at this alter-ego to the adjoining ‘Slim’. The décor is as ﬂash as the clubbers: soaring ceilings, colossal chandeliers, posh furnishings.

bangkok 101

HoBB (house of Bangkok Bar) Daily 7pm-2am | Free Entry | 02-641-5959 A chic, chandeliered two-storey bar with plenty of seating nooks and windows looking out onto the strip. Expect DJs, live music, and occasional appearances by Thai bands like Bodyslam.

808 Tues-Sun, 9pm-2pm | Entry Fee | info@808bangkok.com | www.808bangkok.com Sick of radio rap? Not interested in ﬂirting with waiflike bachelor’s students? For edgier beats and scruffier Thai-farang crowds, hit this slick industrial warehouse with the best soundsystem in town and sets by global DJ gods.

nightlife

Saxophone Bar

live music tOKyO JOE’s (map D4) 25/9 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | (opposite Tara Hotel) | 02-259-6268 | www.tokyojoesbkk.com | daily 6pm1am Nobody knows quite where blues aficionados went before this place opened, but they’ve found a home here. After a brief hiatus, Tokyo Joe’s is back in a new location where two cool guys put all their efforts into this live blues mecca, and it shows. The stage sets fire nightly from 9:30pm with talented, mostly-local musicians performing blues, interspersed with jazz, soul and R&B. Unique for Bangkok are the ﬂamenco nights on Mondays; Sunday’s jam sessions are well-liked. A mixed, but mostly Western crowd is always impressed by the schedule (check the website for details) and the unassuming, tasty Asian-American pub favourites.This place is for serious blues lovers.

โตเกียวโจส สุขุมวิท 26

BROWn sUGaR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars. The best one is definitely this longstanding, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yester year with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band star ts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน ชูการ ถ. สารสิน

saXOPhOnE BaR (map C2) 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 02 246-5472 | www. saxophonepub.com | daily 6pm-2am This unpretentious place is a Bangkok landmark when it comes to solid live jazz and blues. Just a stone’s throw away from a BTS station, it’s nevertheless not a tourist hangout. Filled with masses of fun-filled, youngish Thais and the odd foreigner thrown in, the spacious joint can pack up to 400 people on its low-ceilinged, wooden floors. Nightly, talented Thai bands belt out sincere jazz, jazzy funk and R&B while the crowd feasts on hearty Thai and Western fare.

churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list. Down some crazy cocktails, or do the Thai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

แซกโซโฟน บาร ถ. พญาไท

aD hERE thE 13th (map a2) 13 Samsen Rd, Banglumphu | 089769-4613 | daily 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band nightlife

Brown Sugar

bangkok 101

Brick Bar

BRiCK BaR (map a2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) As the name suggests, this bar’s built solely from red brick. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, it’s a dark and airy vault, with benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in.A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with fresh-faced 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. The excellent T-Bone, a charismatic Thai outfit who ﬂit from reggae to rocksteady and even samba, has been known to turn up. Good Thai food is available from the sister hotel, though you may struggle to find dancing space, let alone a pew. Beers start from B60, cocktails from B150 and even the obligatory whisky is given a slinky twist, with table service from tiny but hardy waitress “pretties”. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร ถ. ขาวสาร

bangkok 101

RaintREE PUB (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd. | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-9261604 | www. raintreepub.com | daily 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of wooden, pre-consumerist age time-capsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a band at around 11pm adds bongos, mandolin and accordion. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 18 years ago and, it seems, has changed little since. And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, soul-stirring. There are too many insipid, cover-spouting live music bars in Bangkok – and too few like this one.

เรนทรีผับ ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย nightlife

titaniUm iCE BaR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 | www.titanium-club. com | daily 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly. Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 90-some varieties to choose from. An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nipple-raising minus10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

ไทเทเนียม ไอซบาร สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

Raintree

nightlife

pub crawling

here are many ways of quenching a thirst, but surely the most enjoyable has to be sipping a pint of real beer in a proper public house. With an unexpectedly wide choice of British and Irish bars offering a taste of pub life, Bangkok won’t let you down on this front. Bangkok 101 dragged our very own pub-crawler par-excellence Nick Measures out of the boozer to get the low-down on the top taverns around town.

featured

pub

WHeRe Basement, UBC ii Bldg, sukhumvit soi 33, BtS Phrom Phong, 02-261-0238-9 open Daily 11am–1am

THE LONDONER

Descending the steps to this basement-based boozer leads to a store of surprises: what lurks behind the heavy art deco-style doors is a cavernous space punctuated by minimal lighting, nicotine-coloured walls and a wood and brass finish which lend the place a subterranean speakeasy feel. The huge freestanding bar dominates the entrance but the place seems to go on forever and fits in a large stage, bistro and even a brewery. Enjoy the extensive menu in your choice of cosy booth, bar stool or raised dining area. The highlight for ale lovers is the palatable London Pride bitter and London Pilsner 33, brewed onsite. Both are a refreshing change from the usual imported beers. The pub’s loyal following also come for the 15 screens, making it a very popular venue for big sports events. With two pool tables, darts, bimonthly quizzes, 2 for 1 drinks on Wednesdays, nightly happy hours, Sunday buffet and the resident house band, it’s no surprise that the Londoner is celebrating its 11th anniversary this year. Aside from being a little pricey, the only downsides are the waitresses’ tacky beefeater outfits, but they do look better as the night wears on!

เดอะ ลอนดอนเนอร อาคารยูบีซี 2 สุขุมวิท ซ.33

What’s on Tap?

DiD

yOU The reputation of Thai brew is mixed to say the least, and decent choices are limited, but beer KnOW? remains a popular beverage among locals. Don’t be fooled by menus referring to Heineken and Asahi as “locals” - those are brewed here under local licence.The actual Thai heavyweights are singha Due to the oven-like temperatures red Beer (pronounced “Sing”) and Chang Beer. Chang is the Thai word for elephant, and after a few cans wine is quite often of this you may feel like you’ve been trampled by one when you wake up. Not considered a classy served chilled. it’s brew by any means, it has been triumphant due to its lower price and higher alcohol percentage and also been known for beers to be glugged guaranteed intoxication. It’s much harder to find in classier bars compared to singha Beer, which is with ice. the more high-brow choice. Chang’s reception is a bit spotty as some are quite fond of it while others liken it to urine. Forget the cans and stick to draught for a better bet. Micro-brewed Phuket Beer is harder to track down but many swear by it as a superior local choice. Many breweries have suds aimed at lower markets - the most notable being Singha’s underling, Leo Beer. Of course you get what you pay for with these. Also, independent breweries can be found, like at the Londoner Brew Pub or Tawandaeng Beer Garden 94

nightlife

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

SiLom aRea puBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is the Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers. With Kilkenny and Guinness on tap, molly malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) - there’s live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands the Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout can make it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer including John Smith’s, Beer Lao and Guinness, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to a fantastic happy hour where you can enjoy a Margarita for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

Bts surasak sathORn ROaD

thaniya

PatPOnG

COnVEnt ROaD

sURasaK ROaD

siLOm ROaD

2 1 Bts sala Daeng

SuKHumvit aRea puBS

bangkok 101

sOi 39

sUKhUmVit ROaD

Bts asoke

sOi 22

sOi 12

Bts nana

sOi 6

sOi 4

sUKhUmVit ROaD

sOi 35

sOi 11

sOi 13

sOi 33

sOi 33/1

Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, the Robin hood [12] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, including draught Kilkenny and Guinness, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is the Bull’s head [11], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s ‘Toss the Boss’; call the ﬂip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. the Londoner [10] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [9], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is the Black swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is the Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

Bts Phrom Phong

nightlife

Shopping

stuff

s clichés go, “Shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s literally something for everyone in this town (however peculiar your peccadilloes may be). For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering city-sized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map - and prepare for sheer retail overload. Duty Free Why pay taxes? Anytime you can save money, take advantage! Airport shopping in a bling new complex, open for less than a year, allows travellers to peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. They don’t have the most up-to-date products from the big names, but good choices abound nonetheless. This is the place for cosmetics or perfumes. Save up to 20% on department store prices. Get this shopping out of the way first, so you can focus on the other shopping that

Silom Village

needs to be done before departure. King Power’s inner-city location is on Soi Rangnam, (Victory Monument BTS station, with a free shuttle from Century Plaza). Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out. Be sure to have your air ticket and passport. This is much more civilised than running through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi. Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. When it comes to blissful pampering, the Thais have got their down-time services down pat. The following slick product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. ■ Panpuri: Asian-inspired sensory purification. Pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. www. panpuri.com Paragon 1st Fl, King Power Duty Free, Central Chidlom 4th Fl, and Gaysorn, 7th Fl ■ Thann: Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and

Bargaining This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it down the street, and if they want to sell it, they better come off the price a little. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head. 96

shopping

relaxing. The new Mediterranean Blend is gorgeous. www.thann.info Central Chidlom 4th Fl, Central Chidlom 4th Fl., Central Ladprao 5th Fl., Isetan Plaza (Central World) 5th Fl., Siam Discovery Center 5th Fl. and Emporium 4th Fl. ■ Karmakamet: Long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul. www.karmakamet.co.th Central World 2nd floor; Chatuchak Market, section 2, Soi 3 Home furnishings Modern Thai décor often blends Western minimalism with exotic “Oriental” flourishes to produce striking creations that are fast gaining international repute. So why not take some of the local style savvy back home with you? Silk: Thai silk reaped overseas recognition only quite recently – but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. ■ Jim Thompson: This legendary American silk revivalist pioneered the modern Thai silk industry. Paragon 1st fl., King Power Duty Free; and Jim Thompson House Museum, Soi Kasemsan (across from MBK) and Surawong Rd. Antiques: Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. bangkok 101

Counterfeit Stoners

Thai Silk

■ River City Complex: This sprawling mother-of-all-antique-dealers hosts auctions on the first Saturday of each month (with viewings the preceding week). 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung 30 Arts & Crafts: Beyond the triangular pillow and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of authentic textiles up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down. ■ OTOP: One Tambon One Product is a laudable government directive that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). ■ Narayanaphand: An enormous bazaar offering ceramics, handstitched fabrics and artisan goods. 127 Ratchadamri Rd, Pathumwan ■ ThaiCraft Fair: Everything from coconut-shell salad bowls to bulrush baskets at this monthly, OTOP-approved crafts-flogging session on the third floor of the Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing. Check www.thaicraft.org for dates. Tower Wing, The Ambassador Hotel, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11. JEWELRY & GEMS Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionally-mined precious stones. The local jeweller’s can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum. ■ Lambert Industries: This friendly and reliable service has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. 807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg, 4th Fl, Soi 17, Silom Rd, 02-236-4343 ■ Rasi Sayem: This producer applies age-old methods to innovative, newfangled creations. 32 Sukhumvit Soi 23 bangkok 101

Bounders running gem scams abound on Bangkok’s streets. Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts. Sidewalks Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny t-shirts, small carved wooden products, paintings, and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the stuff on offer can be picked up in the malls and markets – but where’s the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain. Step up to: ■ Silom Road: This well-known party place has some great shopping right off Saladaeng BTS station. Both sides of the street offer day and nighttime shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am. Just about everything, especially souvenir t-shirts unavailable anywhere else. ■ Central World: Right in the centre of the city, off the Chit Lom BTS station, and walking distance from Gaysorn, and the ever-crowded Siam shopping district. Stalls offer some uniquely crafted Thai products like

Value added tax

Department stores offer VAT services that allow you a precious 7% VAT refund upon leaving the country. You have to spend at least B2,000 a day to get the discount, but major purchases can add up in those stores. Have your passport and tickets with you! Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products.

coke can tuk-tuks and coconut shell purses. ■ Pratunam: Well known for its bulk deals, the sidewalk offers sunglasses, and all things casual. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists lapping up bargains, find great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!). A ten-minute walk from Central World, it surrounds an intense indoor fashion market with everything available at discounted rates for bulk orders. Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item. ■ Sukhumvit:The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. Right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

Keep it real As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home, and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real. Suan Lum Night Bazaar

shopping

Shopping

shopping tours

SIAM SQUARE

the corner and chathewi and head round Jump off the sky train at Rat gkok’s most Ban of now approaching one up Petchaburi Rd ; you’re known for is rict dist am laves. The Pratun jam-packed shopping enc for Pantip and d, foo et stre ounts, tasty bargain basement bulk disc ula cum tive buzz ctically levitates with the Plaza - an I.T. mall that pra s, races and gizmos of all shapes size of computers, gadgets and ” all over the vie mo xy stently touting “se creeds – as well as pests insi y overload, sor sen the m fro recovered ground floor. Once you’ve n hio Mall nex t ically named Platinum Fas check out the oxymoron ere locals go for cheap door for a heads-up on wh ner of Phetchabutri cor fashion-wear. At the Pratunam market, an and Ratcharaprob Rd lies stalls overflowing with unmarked labyrinth of ies. Shoppers spurred those infamous pirate cop olesale prices should on by the prospect of wh e. The last stop is the spend time negotiating her Indra Regent hotel. shopping centre inside the neighbouring peers its This arcade is smaller than tailors plying their lity qua of – and, with a range d place to get suited wares under its roof, is a goo

shopping

FINISH HERE

Indra Regent Hotel Pratunam Market

RATCHAPRAROP RD

SOI 2

PR ATUNAM

PHAYATHAI RD

FINISH HERE

SOI 3

SOI 4

BTS Siam

SOI 5

START HERE

RAMA 1

his buzzing locale may take its name from Thailand’s past, but its daily day-glow retail frenzy is a distinctly modern phenomenon. From premium brands to shoddy knockoffs; subtly modified student uniforms to show-stopping Cosplay-inspired gothic Lolitas, Siam Square is the Thai home of conspicuous consumption – a modern national pastime-cum-popular face-gaining strategy – and a prime spot for checking out Bangkok’s vibrant street fashions. Not only is the general vicinity a nominal open-air catwalk, but any Thai fashion label or trendy start-up worth its salt is represented here, hence the trend for youthful enterprises with quirky, anglicised names, like It’s Happened to be a Closet on soi 3, which stocks vintage girly fashions and also offers salon services and a menu of decent Italian cuisine. Gather yourself and dive headlong into a crowded cache of boutique-y market stalls - and prepare to bump elbows with young socialites and gangs of giggling students alike. The little alley tucked next door to the Lido cinema complex is as good an entry point as any. Those wishing to try shopping Thai-style, should shop at a leisurely pace, snacking every step of the way and taking regular breaks in the closest air con-chilled space – hopefully an I-Berry ice cream parlour. For some, the golden rule is: if you see something you like, buy it while you have the chance; Siam Square nurtures impulse buying. Resistance is a brave but naïve gesture, and ultimately futile.

PHETCHABURI RD

START HERE

BTS Ratchatewi

Panthip

Platinum Fashion Mall

bangkok 101

RD IT

SONG SAWAT RD

M AI TR

U N G

RATCHAWONG RD

CHAKKRAWAT RD

MRT Hua Lamphong

KR RD

CHAKRAPHET RD

BURAPA RD

Sampeng Market

START HERE

RAMA IV RD

YAOWARAT RD

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PAHURAT RD

Thieves Market

Bangkok’s Chinatown (kn own locally as “Yaowarat”) presents urban pathfinde rs with a bewildering sensor y mish-mash of human traffic, precious metals , pungent aroma s, ma zy, back-alley marke ts and shop-houses stockp iling useless tat . Take the MRT subway to Hualump hong then cross the street The to Traimit Rd. Walking do Old wn takes you pas t the 13t Siam h centur y Wat Traimit, hos FINISH t to the world’s largest sol id HERE gold Buddha. Opposite the temple, the huge Od eon Gate beckons your pas sageway to Chinatow n. Make your way down Ch aroen Krung Rd then han g left at the intersection with Chakr awat Rd. Firs t up is the cocalled thieves market,, where, if your luck’s in, second-hand ant iques can be had at a steal. Next you ’ll come to Sampeng Lan e,, a nar row bur sting with cheap jew ellery, accessories, bags, fabrics and so jam packed with punter s it’s barely passable. Em erge, breathe, and cross Chakr awat on to Pahurat for Bangkok’s nominal Lit tle India - and some excelle nt deals on fabric and clothing. Pass though the lane and tur n right at Burupa where you ’ll find The Old Siam, a ver y local fou r-s tor y market whose tra ditional Thai candies will leave a sweet afterta ste to your expedi tion.

MAHACHAI RD

CHINATOWN (YAO WAR AT)

SOI WANIT 1

Pahurat Market

THONG LO In recent years this long boulevard has emerged as a scene to see and be seen in; an upmarket playground for well-heeled, studiously cool zeitgeist followers; somewhere boasting conditions favourable to celebrities, models, media types and international school students, who linger there sipping endless moccachinnos, playing with their phones killing sweet time while secretly yearning to be talent-spotted. As befi ts such an eminent locale – if indeed Thong Lor is still riding fickle fashion’s unsteady slipstream as you read this – luxury condos, trendy nightspots, boutique lifestyle emporiums, and designer spas line the avenue. Hop off the BTS at Thong Lo station and on to a local red bus near the entrance to the soi, ride it until almost the end of the street then stroll back. Grab a restorative coffee at J-Avenue, on soi 15, hosts an Apple shop, trendy alfresco cafes and stylish Asian eateries, as well as boutiques flaunting sexy heels and handbags. And, incidentally, if there seems to be an unusual proliferation of blushing brides carousing about, it’s because Thong Lor’s posh wedding studios have formed a latter-day marital Mecca for Bangkok’s great and good. On the corner of soi 10, the Third Place, where at TrueLife@Thonglo you can sip smashing smoothies and use the Internet.

bangkok 101

START HERE

shopping

NEW PHETCHABURI RD

Third Place

SOI 20

SOI 10

FINISH HERE

SOI 18

J Avenue

SOI 55 (THONG LO)

SOI 6

SUKHUMVIT RD

BTS Thong Lo

SOI 15

SOI 13

SOI 53

Shopping

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy. Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 The Four Seasons 4 Grand Hyatt Erawan 5 Intercontinental 6 Holiday Inn 7 Conrad 8 Plaza Athenee 9 Royal Orchid Sheraton 10 The Oriental 11 The Peninsula 12 Shangri-La

1 PHAYA THAI RD

Elevated RAMA 1 RDWalkway

CENTRAL WORLD PLAZA BTS Siam All hail Bangkok’s largest shopping mall, uniquely served by an elevated walkway connecting Siam Skytrain station to its Chit Lom counterpart.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos. Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ZEN BTS Siam This pop art-styled, multilevel designer department store aims to attire Bangkok’s young-at-heart funsters in the latest international fashions. 3

4 5 6

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100

OEN K CHAR

To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

RIVE R

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its air y architecture . Look for TCDC , the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

PHYR A

CENTRAL CHIDLOM BTS Chid Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

C HAO

BTS Ploen Chit

S I PH

PHETBURI RD

PLOENCHIT RD

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GAYSORN BTS Chid Lom All-white interior of glitzy, top-class brands – expect Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

CHIDLOM

LANG SUAN RD

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

RATCHADAMRI RD

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chid Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine. Think Burberry. BTS Chitlom

U RI RD

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam

PHAYA THAI RD

PH E TB

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastro-gems and indie cinemas.

G WON SUR A

OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel. 12

S ILO

bangkok 101

Experience the World of Comfortable and Discover the Latest Wine Bar in Town Entertainment Sports, Football Live on Show (Weekend) with Big Screen Projector 100”

Eat & Drink International Food Buffet Lunch, A La Carte Dinner Wine + Inter Cocktail

Promotion Spend Over 2,000B / 1 Person Get 1 Free Buffet Lunch or Free Relax Our Pool Jacuzzi, Gym, Sauna at Roof Top

Tel: (662) 677-8484 or (662) 677-8400 Fax: (662) 677-8485 e-mail : fnb.fxasok@furama.com www.furama.com

LAMBERT… WHERE LUXURY AND VALUE MEET

Your reliable source for gems and jewelry. American owned and operated for 35 years. GEMSTONES, PEARLS, AND CUSTOM JEWELRY TO YOU AT WHOLESALE PRICES WORLDWIDE WHOLESALER, EXPERT GEM CUTTERS & EXPORTER OF FINE GEMS

Visit our showroom, sit with us, we’ll design and create the piece of your dreams, choose from thousands of stones, all shapes sizes and colors…or buy from our ready made boutique collection. Trust Lambert and color your world with Thailand’s most beautiful gemstones. LAMBERT INDUSTRIES LTD. 807-809 Silom Shanghai Building, 4th floor Soi 17, Silom Road, Bangkok 10500, Thailand Tel. 66 2-236-4343/49 Fax. 66 2-236-4810

www.lambertgems.com

Shopping

markets

Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-that-be auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s obsessive collection of modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนทบารซาร

Suan Lum Night Bazaar

CHATUCHAK (map D1) Forget designer malls. “JJ weekend market” is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fi ttest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere – the rest can get lost – literally. Taking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which zillions descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Chatuchak quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs during ‘Nam; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has somehow evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for peddling endangered species). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order begins to crystallise from the chaos (Nancy Chandler’s famous 102

map also comes in invaluable). Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits - although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated fix.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating. In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: shopping

PATPONG Over the years, this notorious strip of sleazy go-go bars evolved into a bustling, tourist luring market that plies busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in hired flesh. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees young families on package tours rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. What’s funny is that the fleshpots have become almost secondary to the chain of stalls along Silom Road and the avenues of Patpong, starting at around 6pm every evening – but, rest assured, the seething, mercenary atmosphere remains fully primed to rip you off at the first opportunity. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts and souvenirs ¬– although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills come in second to none here.

พัฒนพงศ

Chatuchak

bangkok 101

Wet mArketS Bangkok has a number of large ‘wet’ markets and hundreds of smaller ones catering to residential areas. The pavements of the city are jam-packed with food vendors all day long, selling fresh fruit and vegetables to the endless stream of passers-by. Thais love to snack and fruit ranks as the most popular bite in-between meals. KHLONG TOEI

คลองเตย

This large market offers the full spectrum of ingredients required for the intricacies of Thai cuisine. Fresh meat, fish, herbs and spices rub shoulders with towering piles of vegetables, fruit and rice. The vendors with live ornamental fish for sale, hanging on their walking sticks, will get a quizzical first-time take. Visit it in the very early morning as the market slows down after 10am. SAM YAN

สามยาน

On the outskirts of Chinatown, this wet market is smaller but offers much the same fresh produce as Khlong Toei, albeit with some more obvious Chinese influences. TALING CHAN

ตลิง่ ชัน

(see Floating Market p.38)

KHAO SAN ROAD This legendary budget traveller’s ghetto hosts an astounding variety of shops catering to the younger – or younger at heart – generation of visitors. Stallholders do an accordingly sterling trade in “novelty” t-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. Yes, if you must, you can still get clad in tie-die and fisherman’s pants, get your hair dreadlocked, and eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. But postmillennial Khao Sarn has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. Nowadays, the first sighting is to have your senses assaulted by a front line of screaming neon, while international junk food chains jostle rudely for attention in the gallery and gaggles of preening students amble along what must be the smoothest paving in the kingdom (not saying much, admittedly). You can momentarily evoke the bygone era by wandering past the guesthouses, second-hand bookshops and stalls punting leftover backpacker detritus at the temple end of the road – although any brief illusion is shattered as soon as you happen upon the next, inevitable 7-11. That said, KS offers unbeatable people-watching; makes for an excellent refuelling pit-stop from tours of the neighbouring royal district; and it offers a diverse menu of inexpensive, round-the clock grazing.

ถนนขาวสาร

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

bangkok 101

shopping

Khlong Toei

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market. The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was hailed as “Venice of the East”.

เทเวศน

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the “thieves market”, this smallish street-side market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique, and a seemingly random assortment of household appliances. As its nickname would suggest, ample bargains await patient, eagle-eyed shoppers - though don’t expect a receipt, let alone a refund.

นครเกษม

PRATUNAM A popular trading centre, primarily for textiles, fabrics, as well as fancy dress (feather boa and Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?), and cheap novelty clobber of all kinds, ranging from random tat right up to factoryseconds. This lively market area spreads out from around the base of the looming Bai Yoke Sky Hotel (the highest restaurant in Southeast Asia), attracting a lively multinational mix of fast-talking traders, all on the make. It’s also home to the LED-accentuated charms of Pantip Plaza, a techno-mega-mall with an atmosphere that’s simply electric (see p.100 for a suggested tour of the locale).

ประตูน้ำ

103

Accommodation

one room

In each new issue Bangkok 101 brings you the city’s very best overnight offerings by taking you inside its most extraordinary rooms in its most distinctive hotels, one room at a time.

THE CONRAD BANGKOK PRESIDENTIAL SUITE

t 238 sqm this elegant one-giant-room suite is more spacious than most of Bangkok’s ubiquitous, luxury multi-bedroom condos. Eschewing the all-too-common Nights of Arabia decor, it’s done out remarkably tastefully in what could best be described as ‘modern Asian’; think understated, subtle earth tones. The rooms can be left completely open, or partitioned for the mood or mission. WHERE The Conrad Stretching for what seems to be an entire Bangkok, 87 Wireless Rd. side of the hotel building, this long and narrow (map C3) , 02-690-9999 rectangular pleasure pad offers up striking www.conradbangkok.com 32nd floor views – 180o of them – of everBTS Ploen Chit jammed Sukhumvit Road. Both the living and PRICE B81,000++ sleeping rooms are fitted with crystal-clear, 40” LCD TVs. For an entirely different viewing experience, gaze through a picture window beyond the headboard of the king-sized bed, right into a roomy, free-standing bathtub. With this plethora of in-room entertainment and amenities on offer, it’s a wonder why one would ever leave the comfort of this palatial room; but then again suite-dwellers do have exclusive access to to the hotel’s Executive Floor, be it for telecommunications, afternoon tea, cocktails or to puff on a cigar in the smoking lounge. You can always retreat back to your cushy abode. If you’re intent on livin’ it large in Bangkok, there are few better places to do it. Hey, they don’t call it ‘Presidential’ for nothing.

รร. คอนราด ออลซีซั่นเพลส ถ.วิทยุ

BAAN DINSO

BOUTIQUE BANGKOK

Where is the welcome? Where is the charm? Where, err, is the toilet paper? These kinds of questions are commonplace among hostel-goers; even more so if you’re staying around backpacker barrio Khao San Road, where often the only thing that comes guaranteed is a sour-faced receptionist. Mercifully, though, there is Baan Dinso to restore your faith in the area’s hostelries: an immaculately restored, late 1920’s colonial townhouse with more charm in its original copper doorknobs than most hostels manage full-stop. It’s painted in creamy beige and balmy white, tucked down a local Soi in the heart of the august Old City. Walls are of teak, as are the lacquered, slightly creaky floors. The 9 homey rooms come with snuggly taut beds, Laura Ashley-esque curtains, cable TV, air-con and a fridge. Only the five double rooms have bathrooms but communal washing areas are squeaky clean. Khun Puttima is to thanks for all this. She’s the gracious, hands-on proprietor who has even been known to take guests on impromptu tuk-tuk tours passed the glittering Grand Palace. Her people skills seem to have also rubbed WHERE 113 Soi Silp, Dinso off on the young staff, who are inordinately helpful Rd., 02-622-0560-3 , www. and deliver your breakfast in a wicker basket before baandinso.com PRICE Deluxe later waving you off from the raised porch. This, it transpires, is the only real B2,000, Suite B1,412 Single B942 disappointment at Baan Dinso, the ‘goodbye.’ net (incl. ABF)

บานดินสอ ซ.ศิลป ถ.ดินสอ

104

accommodation

bangkok 101

The Stylish

New Way to Sleep in Bangkok

seven design hotel 3/15 Sukhumvit 31 Bangkok 10110 t: +662.662.0951 f: +662.662.3344 e: info@sleepatseven.com www.sleepatseven.com

Accommodation

hotels & serviced apartments

รร. เรมแบรนดท สุขุมวิท ซ. 18

■ ROYAL

ORCHID SHERATON HOTEL (map B4) 2 Charoen Krung Rd, Soi 30 (Captain Bush Lane) | BTS Saphan Thaksin | 02-266-0123 | www.sheraton.com/royalorchid

HOTELS ■ BANYAN TREE BANGKOK (map C4) 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumphini | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com

รร. บันยันทรี กรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต

■ CONRAD

BANGKOK (map C3) 87 Wireless Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.ConradHotels.com

รร. คอนราด กรุงเทพ ถ. วิทยุ

■ FOUR

รร. รอยัล ออคิด เชอราตัน เจริญกรุง ซ. 30

■ SHANGRI-LA HOTEL BANGKOK (map

B4) 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Rd | BTS Saphan Thaksin | 02-236-7777 | www.shangri-la.com

รร. แชงกรี-ลา ถ.เจริญกรุง

■ SHERATON

GRANDE SUKHUMVIT (map C3) 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8888 | www.luxurycollection.com/bangkok

รร. เชอราตัน แกรนด สุขุมวิท ถ. สุขุมวิท

SEASONS HOTEL BANGKOK (map C3) 155 Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1000 | www.fourseasons.com

■ SOFITEL

■ GRAND

■ SOFITEL

รร. โฟรซีซั่น กรุงเทพ ถ. ราชดำริ

HYATT ERAWAN BANGKOK (map C3)494 Rajdamri Rd | 02-254-1234 | www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com รร. แกรนด ไฮแอท เอราวัณ กรุงเทพ ถ. ราชดำริ ■ GRAND MERCURE PARK AVENUE BANGKOK (map D3) 30 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Rd | 02-261-0000 | www.mercure.com

รร. แกรนด เมอรเคียว พารค อเวนิว กรุงเทพฯ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

■ HOLIDAY

INN SILOM BANGKOK (map C4) 981 Silom Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-238-4300 | www.bangkok-silom.holiday-inn.com

รร. ฮอลิเดยอินน สีลม ถ. สีลม

■ INTERCONTINENTAL BANGKOK (map C3) 973 Ploenchit Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-656-0444 | www.ichotelsgroup.com

รร. อินเตอรคอนติเนนตัล กรุงเทพ

■ JW

MARRIOTT HOTEL BANGKOK (map D3) 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2 | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-656-7700 | www.marriott.com

รร. เจดับบลิว แมริออท สุขุมวิท ซ. 2

■ THE

LANDMARK BANGKOK HOTEL (map D3) 138 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Nana | 02-254-0404 | www.landmarkbangkok.com

รร. แลนดมารค กรุงเทพ ถ. สุขุมวิท

■ LEBUA @ STATE TOWER LUXURY HOTEL BANGKOK (map

B4) State Tower 1055, Silom Rd | BTS Saphan Thaksin | 02-624-9999 | www.lebua.com

รร.เลบัว แอท สเตท ทาวเวอร ถ. สีลม

■ BANGKOK

CENTARA GRAND BANGKOK (map C-D1) 1695 Phaholyothin Rd | BTS Chatuchak, MRT Phaholyothin | 02-5411234 | www.centralhotelsresorts.com

รร. โซฟเทล เซนทารา แกรนด ถ. พหลโยธิน

SILOM BANGKOK (map C4)188 Silom Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi, MRT Silom | 02-238-1991 | www.sofitel.com

รร. โซฟเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

■ SWISSOTEL

LE CONCORDE HOTEL BANGKOK (map D2) 202 Ratchadapisek Rd | MRT Huai Kwang | 02-694-2222 | www.bangkok-leconcorde.swissotel.com

รร. สวิสโซเทล เลอร คอนคอร ถ.รัชดาภิเษก

■ SWISSOTEL NAI LERT PARK BANGKOK

(map C3) 2 Wireless Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-253-0123 | www.nailertpark.swissotel.com

รร. ปารคนายเลิศ ถ. วิทยุ

■ THE

DUSIT THANI BANGKOK (map C4) 946 Rama IV Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-200-9000 | www.dusit.com

รร. ดุสิตธานี ถ. พระราม 4

■ THE

IMPERIAL QUEEN’S PARK HOTEL (map D3) 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-261-9300 | www.imperialhotels.com

รร. อิมพิเรียลควีนสพารค สุขมุ วิท ซ. 22

■ METROPOLITAN

BANGKOK (map C4) 27 South Sathorn Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Lumphini |02-625-3333 | www.metropolitan.como.bz

รร. เมโทรโพลิแทน ถ. สาทรใต

■ THE

ORIENTAL HOTEL BANGKOK (map B4) 48 Oriental Avenue | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com

รร. โอเรียนเต็ล ถ. เจริญนคร

MARRIOTT RESORT & SPA (map B4) 257 Charoen Nakhorn Rd | BTS Saphan Thaksin | 02-476-0022 | www.marriott.com

■ THE

■ MILLENNIUM

■ THE

รร. แมริออท รีสอรท แอนด สปา กรุงเทพ ถ. เจริญนคร

HILTON BANGKOK (map B4) 123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Thaksin | 02-442-2000 | www.bangkok.hilton.com

รร. เพนนินซูลา กรุงเทพฯ ถ.เจริญนคร

SUKHOTHAI (map C4) 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Lumphini | 02-344-8888 | www.sukhothai.com

รร. สุโขทัย ถ. สาทรใต

รร. มิลเลนเนียม ฮิลตัน กรุงเทพ ถ. เจริญกรุง

WESTIN GRAND SUKHUMVIT HOTEL (map D4) 259 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-207-8000 | www.westin.com

รร. แกรนด มิลเลนเนียม สุขุมวิท

■ NOVOTEL SUVARNABHUMI AIRPORT HOTEL BANGKOK

รร. โนโวเทล สยามสแควร ถ. พระราม 1

■ FURAMA

■ GRANDE MILLENNIUM SUKHUMVIT BANGKOK

(map D3) 30 Sukhumvit 21 (Asoke) Rd | BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | 02204-4000 | www.millenniumhotels.com

■ NOVOTEL SIAM SQUARE BANGKOK (map C3) 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6, Rama I Rd | BTS Siam | 02-209-8888 | www.novotel.com ■ PAN

PACIFIC BANGKOK (map B4) 952 Rama IV Rd | BTS Sala Daeng MRT Silom | 02-632-9000 | www.panpacific.com/bangkok

รร. แพนแปซิฟก ถ. พระราม 4

■ PATHUMWAN

PRINCESS HOTEL (map C3) 444 Phayathai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-216-3700 | www.pprincess.com

รร. ปทุมวันปริ๊นเซส ถ. พญาไท

■ PLAZA

ATHÉNÉE BANGKOK (map C3)10 Wireless Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-650-8800 | www.lemeridien.com/bangkok

รร. พลาซา แอทธินี่ ถ.วิทยุ

■ REMBRANDT

HOTEL BANGKOK (map D3) 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-261-7100 | www.rembrandtbkk.com

106

PENINSULA BANGKOK (map B4) 333 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin |02-861-2888 | www.peninsula.com

■ THE

รร. เดอะ เวสทิน แกรนด สุขุมวิท ถ. สุขุมวิท

999 Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel | 02-131-1111 | www.novotel.com

รร. โนโวเทลสุวรรณภูมิ

EXCLUSIVE ASOKE 133/2 Sukhumvit Soi 21| BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-677-8484 | www.furama.com

ฟูรามา เอ็กซคลูซีฟ สุขุมวิท ซ. 21

BOUTIQUE HOTELS ■ DREAM HOTEL (map D3) 10 Sukhumvit Soi 15 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-254-8500 | www.dreambkk.com

รร. ดรีม สุขุมวิท ซ. 15

■ THE

DAVIS BANGKOK (map D4) 88 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-8000 | www.davisbangkok.net

รร. เดอะ เดวิส กรุงเทพฯ สุขมุ วิท ซ. 24

■ THE

accommodation

EUGENIA (map D4) 267 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | BTS Asok, bangkok 101

MRT Sukhumvit | 02-259-9017 | www.theeugenia.com

รร. ยูจีเนีย สุขุมวิท ซ. 31

■ LE

FENIX SUKHUMVIT (map D3) 3/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-305-4000 | www.lefenix-sukhumvit.com

รร. เลอ ฟนิกซ สุขุมวิท สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

■ ARUN

RESIDENCE (map A3) 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Rd | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com

อรุณเรสซิเดนท ถ. มหาราช

■ SIAM

AT SIAM DESIGN HOTEL (map C3) 865 Rama 1 Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-217-3000 | www.siamatsiam.com

สยาม แอท สยาม ดีไซน โฮเทล ถ. พระราม 1

■ SEVEN

(map D3) 3/15 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-0951 | www.sleepatseven.com

รร. เซเวน สุขุมวิท ซ. 31

■ PHRA-NAKORN

NORN-LEN 46 Thewet Soi 1 | 02-628-8118 | www.phranakorn-nornlen.com

รร. พระนครนอนเลน เทเวศน ซ. 1

■ LUXX

HOTEL 6/11 Decho Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-6358800 | www.staywithluxx.com

รร. ลรรค ถ. เดโช สีลม

■ SHANGHAI

INN (map B3) 479-481 Yaowaraj Rd | 02-221-2121 | www.shanghai-inn.com

รร. เซี่ยงไฮอินน ถ. เยาวราช

■ MA

DU ZI (map D3) 9/1 Ratchadapisek | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-258-8518 | www.maduzihotel.com

รร. มาดูซี สุขุมวิท ซ. 16

■ IBRIK

RESORT IN THE CITY 235/16 South Sathorn Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-211-3470 | www.ibrikresort.com

ไอบริค รีสอรท อิน เดอะ ซิต้ี ถ. สาทรใต

■ BANGKOK

BOUTIQUE HOTEL 241 Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit or Petchaburi | 02-261-2850 | www.bangkokboutiquehotel.com

เซ็นเตอร พอยท ศาลาแดง ศาลาแดง ซ. 1

1552/2 Charoenkrung Soi 50| BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-630-6345

เซ็นเตอร พอยท สีลม เจริญกรุง ซ. 50

39 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | BTS Nana | 02-653-1783

เซ็นเตอร พอยท สุขมุ วิท สุขมุ วิท ซ. 10

Soi Thong Lo (Sukhumvit 55) | BTS Thong Lo | 02-365-8300

เซ็นเตอร พอยท ทองหลอ ซ. ทองหลอ

100 Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-659-5000

เซ็นเตอร พอยท วิทยุ ถ. วิทยุ

■ FRASER

PLACE 55 LangSuan Rd | 02-250-6666 | www. fraserhospitality.com

เฟรเซอร เพลส ถ.หลังสวน

■ EMPORIUM

SUITES 622 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-664-9999 | www.emporiumsuites.com

เอ็มโพเรียม สวีท ถ. สุขุมวิท

■ GARDEN GROVE SUITES BOUTIQUE SERVICED RESIDENCE

51 Sukhumvit Soi 16 |BTS Asok| 02- 663-3120 | www.ggrove.com

การเดน โกรฟ สวีท บูทีค เซอรวิส เรสซิเดนท สุขุมวิท ซ. 16

■ GRAND

PRESIDENT 14, 16 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana| 02-651-1200| www.grandpresident.com

แกรนด เพรสซิเดนท สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

■ JASMINE

EXECUTIVE SUITES 2 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-204-5888, 02-204-5885 | www.jasminecity.com

จัสมิน เอกเซ็กคูทีฟ สวีท สุขุมวิท ซ.23

■ MAYFAIR

MARRIOTT EXECUTIVE APARTMENT 60 Soi Lang Suan, Lumphini, Pathumwan | BTS Phloen Chit | 02- 672-1234 | www.mariott.com

เมยแฟร แมริออท เอกเซกคูทีฟ อพารทเมนท ซ.หลังสวน

■ NATURAL

VILLE EXECUTIVE RESIDENCE 61 Lang Suan Rd, Lumphini | BTS Phloen Chit |02-250-7000 | www.naturalville.com

เนเชอรัล วิลล เอกเซกคูทีฟ เรสซิเดนท ถ.หลังสวน

รร. บางกอก บูติก สุขุมวิท ซ. 21

CITY RESIDENCE 291 Soi Naradhivas Rajanagarindra 24 | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-672-0200 | www.oakwood.com

รร. สยามเฮอรริเทจ ถ. สุรวงศ

■ PRESIDENT

■ THE

SIAM HERITAGE 115/1 Surawong Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Samyan | 02-353-6101 www.thesiamheritage.com

■ S15

SUKHUMVIT HOTEL 217 Sukhumvit 15 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-651-2000 | www.s15hotel.com

รร. เอส ฟฟทีน สุขุมวิท ซ. 15

■ THE

KEY BANGKOK 19-19/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-255-5825-9 | www.thekeybangkok.com

รร. เดอะคีย สุขุมวิท ซ. 19

SERVICED APARTMENTS ■ ADMIRAL SUITES 38/14 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Asok | 02663-4000 | www.admiralsuites.com

แอดไมรัล สวีท สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

■ THE

■ OAKWOOD

โอควูด ซิตี้ เรสซิเดนท ซ.นราธิวาราชนครินทร 24

PARK SERVICE APARTMENT 95 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit| 02-661-1000 | www.presidentpark.com

เพรสซิเดนท พารค เซอรวิส อพารทเมนท สุขุมวิท ซ.24

■ PRESIDENT

SOLITAIRE Sukhumvit Soi 11| BTS Nana | 02255-7200 | www.presidentsolitaire.com

เพรสซิเดนท โซลิแทร สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

■ REMBRANDT

TOWERS SERVICED APARTMENT 22 Sukhumvit Soi 20 | BTS Asok| 02-261-5900 | www.towers. rembrandtbkk.com

แรมแบรนท ทาวเวอร เซอรวิส อพารทเมนท สุขุมวิท ซ. 20

■ ROYAL

PRESIDENT SERVICED APARTMENT 43 Sukhumvit Soi 15|02 -253 9451 | BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | www.royalpresident.com

SATHORN 27 Soi Saladaeng 1 |BTS Sala Daeng |02-662345 | www.sirisathorn.com

10 Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-266-6465-72

■ SOMERSET

บอลลี่ สตูดิโอ สวีท สุขุมวิท ซ. 20 บอลลี่ สตูดิโอ สวีท ถ. สีลม

■ CAPE

HOUSE LANGSUAN 43 Soi Langsuan, Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-658-7444 | www.capehouse.com

รอยัล เพรสซิเดนท เซอรวิส อพารทเมนท สุขุมวิท ซ.15

■ SIRI

สิริ สาทร ศาลาแดง ซ. 1

www.somerset.com Somerset Lakepoint | 41 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-663-1234

โซเมอรเซ็ท เลคพอยท สุขุมวิท ซ. 16

เคปเฮาส หลังสวน ซ.หลังสวน

Somerset Park Suan Plu | 39 Soi Suanplu | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Lumphini | 02-679-4444

เซ็นเตอร พอยท หลังสวน ซ. หลังสวน

■ BLISTON

■ CENTRE

POINT www.centrepoint.com 60 Soi 1, Langsuan Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-657-2400

6 Soi 15, Petchburi Rd | BTS Ratchatewi | 02-653-6690-8

เซ็นเตอร พอยท เพชรบุรี ถ. เพชรบุรี

5 Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-630-6345 bangkok 101

โซเมอรเซ็ท ปารค สวนพลู ถ. สาทรใต

SUWAN PARK VIEW | 9 Soi Ton Son | BTS Chit Lom | 02-658-7979

บลิสตัน สุวรรณ ปารควิว ซ.ตนสน ถ.เพลินจิต

food & drinks

107

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

body & beauty

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.110 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

Thai-massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-ﬁtting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body. This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system. Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in ﬂexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

Urban Retreat Spa – 31/10 Sukhumvit Soi 35

/ BTS Phrom Phong / 02-204-2008-9 / www. SIGNATURE TREATMENT

urbanretreatspa.net <http://www.urbanretreatspa.net> / 10am-10pm / $ 30-minute Himalayan Crystal pink Salts with Yogurt and Honey Scrub + 60-minute Macadamia Oil Massage: 1200 baht Gold is something you wear, not have smeared all over you, right? Wrong says the Tucked away in a side street close to Phrom sensuously-skewed logic of Divana Spa and this beautifully conceived, sublimely executed, Phong, Urban Retreat is precisely that – a intensely gratifying ‘Crown Gold package treatment. quiet spot close to theAyurveda’ bustle of Sukhumvit and the upscale Emporium shopping Available only at their flagship Sukhumvit Soi mall. 25 branch – all This new, small spa is popular with Thais and flowing silks, subdued earth tones, trickling water long-term foreign residents drawn by very features – this 210-minute spa opus combines good tracesservices of the that precious nourishing Asian herbs, Ayurvedic therapies don’t metal suffer with for being affordable. Spa menu trim and tidy, with a foand the restorative power ofispiping hot gem stones. cus on massage, although scrubs and facials It’s a treatment that, likeUrban all fiRetreat ne performing arts, plays out in set pieces to form a are also available. offers very we tried rewarding well-priced whole… Aseasonal humble promotions foot scrub --yields to a gold leaf and ginseng body cover; a

CROWN GOLD AYURVEDA

gum honey body scrubdown segues into an unusual chakra therapy whereby oil is nimbly dribbled on your forehead to release your “third eye”; and so the Elysian-scented bliss continues… until, in a trance of Woodstock-goer proportions, you receive a searing, but seriously soothing, hot stone massage. You can literally feel circulation improving, lymph’s draining, your inner energy flows surging as your tender therapist works in swooping strokes along the body, alternating her silky but firm hands with sweeps of tissueWHERE Divana Massage & Spa zinging hot stones. Though scientists may scoff, the gold is also believed to 7 Sukhumvit 25 North Klongtoey conduct energy, making it great for expunging build-ups of rogue electrical (mapD3) BTS Asoke, 02-661-6784-5, radiation. True or not, this extravagant treatment will leave even the most www.divanaspa.com OPEN Weekday blinged out city slicker, feeling beatified. If spa delivery were an Olympic 11am - 11pm, Weekend 10am – 11pm sport, Divana would have just walked off with the gold medal. (Last Booking 9pm) PRICE $$$$ ดิวานา มาสสาจแอนดสปา สุขมุ วิท ซ.25 108

health & wellness

bangkok 101

LIFE CENTER Next to Lumphini underground station and opposite the Suan Lum Night Bazaar is a cylindrical building buzzing with, well, life! Being healthy has never been more easy or glamorous than here at Asia’s first ‘healthstyle’ mall. Under one roof are 40 lifestyle brands dedicated entirely to fitness, health, beauty, cosmetics, healthcare and wellness. The Life Center is divided into four zones, beginning with food, and beverage, (unfortunately commercialism had to spoil the healthy lifestyle concept and the pretzel bakery might challenge the weaker health fan on their way out).A big bonus is the free wireless internet on offer and stylish lounge-out public areas on the ground level. Venture up to the second zone,‘Beauty & Cosmetics,’ and you’re spoilt for choice between quality products and services from Leonard Drake, Skeyndor, Madame Heng Good Health, Ariya, Slim Up Center and a KiDO education center. Prepare to be amazed on the third zone, devoted to ‘Healthcare & Spa’ where a range of cutting-edge medical advancements are at work - from a Center for Assisted Reproduction & Embryology, a DBC Spine Clinic and Gym, Hearing Focus, the Netanart Clinic, and a Stardent Dental Clinic. Right at the top is the ‘Fitness Zone’ and home to Fitness First Plus, a fully-equipped fitness center. Also on offer is Bikram Yoga as well as ‘Kinesis’,Thailand’s only body-building exercise machine. It’s a boutique shopping mall with a difference, and the only shopping center in Asia where you can find an all-inclusive range of first-class health and beauty products and services. Specialised healthcare clinics, beauty centers, a fitness center, a spa, and various restaurants ensure you no longer have to shop till you drop!

LIFE CENTER No. 1 South Sathorn Rd, Tungmahamek, Sathorn, 02-677-7177, www.lifecenterthailand.com

MARK STANDEN

1 on 1: INTERVIEW WITH WORLD GOURMET CHEFS Very Thai: ANIMAL CONTESTS Now in Bangkok : WORLD FILM FESTIVAL OF BANGKOK Day Trip: KOH KRED Upcountry Escape: PHUKET The Natural Guide: WHITE WATER RAFTING Shopping Tour: CHINATOWN

JUNGLE

june 2007

Urban Bangkok

Layers of BANGKOK

Urban

one city. one magaz ine.

july 2007

august 2007

september 2007

Bangkok Snaps

one city. one maga zine.

one city. one magazine.

october 2007

MC Colour

JOAKIM LEROY

Christian Phongphit

SITTHIVET SANTIKARN

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Brendan A. Linane

Now in Bangkok : THAI SHORT FILM FESTIVAL UNIVERSIADE 2007

Upcountry Escape: KOH PHA NGAN

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health & wellness

CALL 02-252-3900

or e-mail: info@talisman-media.com 109

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

spas MULBERRY SPA (map C4) 346/8-10 Silom Rd | 02-630-9972~3 | daily 11am-10pm | $$$ Located right at the western end of Silom Road, a short walk from the Shangri-La and Oriental Hotel, this often booked-out spa still feels quite intimate, thanks to its labyrinthine layout. The lush reception is only the beginning. Seated in the neat “library” you won’t mind waiting. Spread over two floors, each homey room (they all come with their own shower) is dotingly styled in a different way, but a slight Arabian atmosphere and appealing ornaments pervade throughout. The owners take a refreshingly different approach to service: therapists are not chosen for their looks but for their skills. The range of treatments is limited but all the essentials are there. You get way more than you’ve paid for – the prices are quite low for the high-quality massages masks, scrubs and facials. So indulge and spend half a day here.

มัลเบอรรี่ สปา ถ.สีลม

Mulberry Spa

TYPICAL SPA COST RANGE

$ under B600 $$ B600 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000-2,000 $$$$ B2,000+ Credit cards accepted unless otherwise noted 110

Body Tune

BODY TUNE (map C4) Yada Bldg., 2nd Fl., Suriyawongse | BTS Saladaeng, MRT Silom | 02-238-4377 | 10am-midnight | $$ Appearances will deceive at this hidden gem of a massage institution set just a short stroll from the Skytrain steps. An unassuming glass door leads to a surprisingly welcoming reception area, the portal to the therapeutic journey you are about to undertake. Body Tune is a very clever concept: take the best of the luxury spa experience, dispense with the whalesong chakra fiddle-faddle, and wrap it up into a convenient, accessible package – a concept that has proven popular, since Body Tune boasts two other busy branches in Sukhumvit and Phaholyothin. With its streamlined, massage-only menu and stable of 30 therapists, you won’t find any crystals or rose petals in this joint, yet the end result is just as refreshing. Got some knots which need a little extra attention?, Drop in early when the beds are free and the therapists are revved up ready to go. Remember to switch off those mobile phones!

LAVANA (map D3) 4 Sukhumvit Soi 12 |BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-229-4510-2 | daily 9am-11:30pm | $$$ Although this new spa is still a bit rough around the edges – reception is gracious if disorganized, and the spa’s layout is labyrinthine – Lavana does its treatments right. Spa options are refreshingly clear-cut, and primarily focused on massage. Scrubs and facials are also available, along with the unusual and intriguing Shirodhara oil treatment, in which warm oil is drizzled along the “third eye” in the forehead and massaged into the head and neck. Those seeking a tidier signature option should choose the herbalball oil massage – Lavana’s dedicated therapists manage to pack a restful eternity into a well-priced 90 minutes. Masseuses combine long Swedish and sports-massage strokes with very detailed work on problem areas – they take computer-knotted shoulders and other ailments as a matter of personal concern, and banish those tweaks and twinges with wonderfully intense kneading and muscle release work. The deep-tissue work can border on painful, but therapists are careful to adjust to your responses.

ลาวานา สุขุมวิท ซ.12

Lavana

บอดี้ทูน ถ.สีลม

health & wellness

bangkok 101

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

medical tourism

magine an ultramodern hospital where you can book same-day appointments with internationally accredited physicians. Picture waiting areas staffed with smiling orderlies dispensing free cold towels and drinking water. Think you’re dreaming? You’re not. Welcome to Bangkok, where top-tier hospitals offer state-of-the-art services for a fraction of what you would pay in Western Europe, Australia or the USA. Thailand is now Asia’s undisputed leader in the rapidly growing medical tourism industry. Many Thai-born physicians who have trained and practised abroad for years are now returning home to cash in on the country’s healthcare boom. The people fuelling the boom hail mainly from developed countries where waiting times for major procedures have become unacceptably long. Others are fleeing from nations where rising healthcare costs make it a bargain to travel halfway across the world for treatment. Popular procedures run the gamut from face lifts, breast enhancements and liposuction to organ transplants, multi-valve heart bypasses, back surgeries and hip replacements. If you’re only in town for a short time, don’t despair. Complete medical check-up packages, dental procedures and minimally invasive beauty procedures like botox injections and laser skin resurfacing can be scheduled with virtually no lead time. If you’re considering undergoing a more complicated surgical procedure requiring recovery time, it would behove you to see a doctor while you’re in town to determine if your physical condition makes you a suitable candidate for the procedure. If all goes well, you can plan to return for your surgery at a later date. Pre-approval largely eliminates the risk faced by

112

those who travel long distances only to find they are medically ineligible.

maintains a comprehensive English language website detailing clinical specialities, services and prices. Some CAVEAT EMPTOR even offer discounts to international We leave it up to our readers to pick a patients. hospital and a physician based on their All medical procedures carry some own careful research. risks. The more litigious “Thailand is now among us should take While by no means the undisputed an exhaustive list, into account that leader in Asia’s each of the hospitals complications resulting listed on the following from procedures rapidly growing page has given special performed in Thailand medical tourism attention to training might not be covered industry” staff and providing by insurance, and facilities specifically geared toward compensation via malpractice lawsuits an international clientele. Each also may not be adequate in certain cases.

FEATURED MEDICAL TREATMENT

TEETH WHITENING

Thailand has long been known as ‘The Land of Smiles’, a well-earned moniker for such friendly people, sharing their Brite Smile smiles at every chance. Stay here any length and you’ll find it’s downright contagious. So if you catch yourself indulging in the age-old Thai tradition of smiling, and your teeth are less than pearly, perhaps a teeth whitening should be high on your agenda? Fortunately it comes with a much more reasonable price tag than in the West. Also, in keeping with another Thai tradition – hospitality – most procedures, unlike the majority of dental visits, are completely painless. Teeth whitening involves lightening the natural color of teeth, but it is certainly not for everyone. The American Dental Association (ADA) offers some simple rules as to each tooth’s eligibility and of course always recommends consulting with your dentist first. Generally, the stains left behind by such things as coffee, smoking and red wine are a telltale yellowish (or burgundy in the case of the latter) and should be pretty easy to rectify; whereas brownish and grayish hued teeth (as well as bonding or front teeth with fillings) are increasingly more difficult to enhance. A consultancy will tell you what you can expect from a whitening before you decide to commit. In keeping with Thailand’s medical practices, dentists here are welltrained – in most cases overseas. And the technology here is state-of-theart. As for service, we can guarantee you will get to practice your new smile before you leave the dentistry’s doors in ‘The Land of Smiles’. ■ BriteSmile Siam Paragon, 2nd Fl 02-610-9630-3 ■ Bangkok International Dental Center (BIDC) 157 Ratchadapisek Rd 02-692-4433 www.bangkokdentalcenter.com ■ Bumrungrad Hospital - Dental Center 33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) 02-667-2300 www.bumrungrad.com ■ Bangkok Dental Spa Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Rd., 02-310-3336 www.bangkokhospital.com

health & wellness

bangkok 101

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES

Tria

As marvellous as Bangkok may be there are certain downsides to it that will start to wear on you. The heat and pollution will wear your body down and the breakneck speed may be too much for some to handle. Fear not as there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss. TRIA INTEGRATIVE WELLNESS (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02-660-2600 | daily 7am-10pm | www.triaintegrativewellness.com Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-theart equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you. ศูนยสขุ ภาพองครวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ. ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปยะเวท) HYDROHEALTH (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 | daily 10am-8pm | www.hydrohealth.co.th The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand it has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids yourself of all the unwanted toxins bangkok 101

in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems.The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

ไฮโดรเฮลท เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ. เพลินจิต

S MEDICAL SPA (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | daily 10am-10pm | www.smedspa.com The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available. เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ. วิทยุ RASAYANA RETREAT (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | daily 9am-8pm | www.rasayanaretreat.com They are specialists in deepcleansing programs and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely wor th stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible. รัสยานา รีทรีทต ซ. พรอมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39 health & wellness

THE PILATES STUDIO (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซา เพลินจิต YOGA ELEMENTS (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเมนท 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม) Yoga Elements

113

Sports

sports

Muay Thai

SPECTATOR SPORTS MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing or Muay Thai is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadiums. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries. Past Kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safety-conscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three fi veminute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat. Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF and the blows are hard hitting and real. 114

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.33) on any given Sunday and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums. The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Head to any park in the city around 5pm-6pm, and you’ll be able to spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly following the instructions of an enthusiastic coach to blaring disco dance songs. The spor ts

THAI BOXING VENUES Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama iV Rd, next to Suan lum night bazaar | mRt lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights tue & Fri from 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pm-midnight | b1,000 b1,500 b2,000)

สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4 ติดกับสวนลุมไนท บาซาร

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen nok avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights mon, Wed, thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | b1,000 b1,500 b2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Chatuchak Park. Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in! bangkok 101

Major Bowl

ACTIVE SPORTS BADMINTON Racquet Club (map D4) Sukhumvit 49/9 | 02-714-7200 Yen Akat Court (map C4) Soi Yen Akat | 02-249-6935-6 A family favourite in Thailand is badminton which is played by both young and old. A big reason for it being popular is the relative ease of setting up a game. All you need is a racquet, a shuttlecock, someone to watch out for cars, and you’re ready to go. It’s often played in neighbourhoods, in front of houses, whether hitting over fences or just simply on the street. Many housing estates will have courts available for rent or even free of charge. Some centrally located courts include the youth centre in Lumphini Park, Racquet Club and Yen Akat Court. BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof-the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight. During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lo, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK. CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089-895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com | am 6pm (Mon-Fri), 10am-3pm (Sat) | V M This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 11 years, and it offers extra bangkok 101

ordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok. The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kret and along atmospheric, rural canals in Bangkok’s undiscovered countryside (22 - 40kms, US$50US$55). They start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailor-made itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenaline-parched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter. SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand and its neighbours. ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Rachadapisek Rd, Esplanade 4th Fl | MRT Thailand Cultural Center | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more like a nightclub on ice. Popular among

Spiceroads

spor ts

youngsters, its 682 square metres of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B700-1500 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site. TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Center (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with Thai ace Paradorn Srichaphan, who became the first Asian player to achieve a top ten ranking just a couple of years ago, bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels will offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people a little, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open. 115

Courses&Ser vices

courses Benjarong

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes. No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint.

บลู เอเลแฟนท ถ. สาทรใต (รถไฟฟาสุรศักดิ์)

COOKING CLASSES BENJARONG ROYAL THAI CuISINE RESTAuRANT The Dusit Thani | 946 Rama IV Rd | 02200-9000 ext. 2699 | www.dusit.com Want to learn how to cook like a top Thai chef at one of the most elegant restaurants in town? Here’s your chance: The Benjarong Royal Thai Restaurant at the luxurious Dusit Thani Hotel is holding half-day cooking classes Monday through Friday from 2pm to 5pm. The course is run by Benjarong’s head chef himself, Surasak Kongsawat, who has racked up dozens of prestigious culinary awards and medals over his 18-year career in the kitchen. He is also an expert fruit and vegetable carver and you will have the option of learning how to carve fruit along with preparing three exceptional Thai dishes, or choose to learn a fourth recipe if carving doesn’t interest you. Both options include commemorative photos and course completion certificates. Courses are B3,000net pp or B4,200net if you’d like your very own Dusit Cookbook as well. The price includes a 5-course set dinner at the restaurant.

เบญจรงค รร. ดุสติ ธานี ถ. พระราม 4

BLuE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 116

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRAdITIONAL MEdICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school. Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reﬂexology course and other instruction are available too. The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทยแผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACAdEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekkamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02-711-5270-3 | www. chivasomacademy.com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. The high but justified prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses available in reﬂexology and shiatsu.

ชีวาศรม อินเตอรเนชันแนล อะคาเดมี โมเดิรนทาวน 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BuddHIST MEdITATION CENTRE Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here. Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of ﬂowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well. Perfect for a serious, but short stint into Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หนาพระลาน

bangkok 101

making merit

Plant-a-Tree-Foundation

he need for both developed and developing countries to begin implementing environmentally responsible strategies, in all walks of life, is evermore pressing. While governments grapple with unpopular but potentially earth-saving choices, it is organisations like Plant-a-Tree-Today (PATT) that take the leap towards really making a difference in this global crisis. Formed in late 2005, Plant-a-Tree-Today works in conjunction with corporate partners, government and intergovernmental agencies, non governmental organisations (NGOs), local authorities, and local communities to plant 1 million trees per year. The main aim is to combat the already devastating effects that climate change has wrought upon our world, to help institutions big and small achieve ecologically sustainable development. Some of PATT’s most important activities include: n Implementation of reforestation projects n Provision of funding for partner projects n Construction of school tree nurseries n Teaching of environmental education for all children n Offsetting of personal carbon footprints n Raising public awareness of climate change Though they plan to expand into neighbouring countries, Thailand is currently the focus of all PATT’s operations. bangkok 101

Projects they have worked on in the Kingdom include the reforestation of a protected area in Ratchaburi province, mangrove rehabilitation in Hua Hin, and a bio-diesel project in Chiang Rai which increased the self-sufficiency of a local hill-tribe community. Plant-A-Tree’s latest pet-project is in a tiny village in Buriram province called Baan Nong Muangm. Its objectives include the restoration of a degraded land area, increased forest cover, reduced CO2 emissions and education in climate change at a local level. To achieve them, PATT needs to fund the planting of 5,000+ trees (it costs 5 USD, B165, or 2.5 GBP for a single tree). If you would like to make merit by funding this, or upcoming projects in the Kingdom, please contact PATT via the following channels: PATT Foundation c/o Equitech (Thailand) Ltd, BB Building, 7th Floor, Office # 3705, Sukhumvit 21 Road (Asoke), Klongtoey-Nua, Wattana, Tel: 02-259-6255 Or donate online at: www.plant-a-tree-today.org

cour ses & ser vices

Photo courtesy of Baan Gerda

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

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survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words. Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement). The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then. Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you? I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

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sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná kho˘ thôt khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669

WESTERN COUNTRIES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-6300 | www.austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place, 15th Fl, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.bangkokinternational.gc.ca Delegation for the Commission of European Communities Kiam Gwan Bldg II, 19th Fl, 140/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-2600 | www. deltha.cec.eu.int New Zealand M Thai Tower, 14th Fl, All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu Rd | 02-254-2530 | www.nzembassy. com/thailand U.S.A. 120-122 Witthayu Rd | 02205-4000; www.usa.or.th/embassy United Kingdom 1031 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-8333 | www.ukinthailand. fco.gov.uk ASIAN COUNTRIES Cambodia 185 Ratchadamri Rd | 02957-5851-2 | RECBKK@hotmail.com China 57 Ratchadaphisek Rd, Din Daeng | 02-245-7043/4 | www. chinaembassy.or.th India 46 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 02-2580300/5 | www.indianembassy.gov. in/bangkok Indonesia 600-602 Phetchaburi Rd | 02-252-3135/40 Japan 177 Wireless Rd | 02-6963000, 02-207-8500 | www.th.embjapan.go.jp Korea 23 Thiam Ruammit Rd, Ratchadaphisek | 02-247-7537/40 | korembas@ksc.th.com Laos 520, 502/1-3 Wang Thonglang Rd | 02-539-6667 | www.bkklaoembassy.com (Visa Section)193 South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3964 Malaysia 33-35 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-2190/5 Myanmar 132 North Sathorn Rd | 02-233-2237, 02-234-4698, 02-2344789 | mebkk@asianet.co.th Philippines 760 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-259-0139/40 | www.philembassybangkok.net Singapore 129 South Sathorn Rd | 02-286-2111 Vietnam 83/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-251-5836

LOST CREDIT CARDS CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am-8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) Diners Club 02-238-3660 (24hours) MEDICAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHONE SERVICES Bangkok Directory Inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 International Long Distance 100 Overseas Subscribers Call 001 TOURISM OFFICES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist Information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-2829773, 02-250-5500 | daily 8:30am4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www.bangkoktourist.com IMMIGRATION DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am4pm

bangkok 101

reference

contacts TRANSPORT PLANE Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Airport Call Centre 02-132-1888 Bangkok Airways Reservations 99 Moo 14, Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd, Lat Yao, Chatuchak | 02-265-5555 | www. bangkokair.com Air Asia Reservations 138/70 17th Floor Jewellery Center, Bldg, Nares Rd | 02-229-4260 | www. orient-thai.com Thai Airways Intâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;l Reservations Suvarnabhumi International Airport A1-062 Ground Floor, Concourse A, Bangna-Trad Rd. | 02-515-9999 | www.airasia.com TRAIN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 SKYTRAIN/SUBWAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-6122444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BUS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mo Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai) MRT Subway

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getting around

angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options.

ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con equipped taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the public taxi queue at the street level outside the terminal, an additional B50 is added to the metered fare.

groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots. As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand. BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7-25. Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers.

RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. For more information: www.bts.co.th

MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their orange vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in

SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up

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Tuk-Tuk

to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B15 to B39. For more information: www.bangkokmetro.co.th RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.34) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of intercity waterways offers a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance. Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3. CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B12 to B22. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. bangkok 101