publisher’s letter
W
hile Bangkok has experienced no small measure of upheaval in recent months, the country’s deep south has been mired in civil strife for years, which makes our photo essay in this issue all the more remarkable. It features the images of photographer Xavier Comas, who spent over a year living in Narathiwat province capturing vignettes of the lives of the occupants of a house that was once the residence of one of the last Malay rulers of the old Kingdom of Patani. Comas’s startlingly beautiful photographs, one of which graces our cover, are by turns familiar and jarring but always sympathetic to the subject matter and thought-provoking for the viewer. One of the highlight events taking place in town this month is the 13th King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament. It promises to be a whole lot of fun, particularly for the ‘street’ pacheyderms who visibly enjoy themselves on the field of play, and a great way to raise funds and awareness of elephant conservation causes in Thailand. Once again we’ve been dining well for your benefit and perhaps the pick of the restaurants in this issue is Chef Ian Kittichai’s latest venture, Namsaah Bottling Trust bar and restaurant on Silom Soi 7. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talisman-media.com.
?
What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
b a ngkok 101 Pa r t n e r s
bangkok101.com
AUGUST 2014 | 3
YOUR NEXT STAY
ON US! Book now for a chance to
win a holiday
Book and Win Book your stay at any Dusit hotel or resort now on for a chance to win one of three fantastic dream holidays! Every reservation made for stays between now and 31 October 2014 qualifies as one entry to the draw for one of the prizes. Prizes: • 3 nights at Dusit Thani Maldives in a Beach Villa with Pure Indulgence (all-inclusive) for 2 • 4 nights at Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi in a Junior Suite including breakfast for 2 • 5 nights at Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket in a Landmark Suite including breakfast for 2 Please visit
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Contributors
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Matt Wilde
editor-at-large
Joe Cummings associate editor
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, Dr Tom Vitayakul has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer joe cummings was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
Food and travel writer howard richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ , the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.
Pawika Jansamakao editorial interns
Kat Gurley, Naina Chugh, Archaree Mahankarat art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Bill Bredesen, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Dave Stamboulis, Keith Mundy, Tom Sturrock contributing photographers
Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi British-born writer-artist steven pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, korakot (nym) punlopruksa believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Very Thai author philip cornwel-smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.
director sales and marketing
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon
director business development
Willem Deenik special projects
Wasin Banjerdtanakul circulation
Pradchya Kanmanee published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 02-286-7821 | F 02-286-7829 info@talisman-media.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2014. All rights reserved.
AVAILABLE AT:
bangkok101.com
No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them. AUGUST 2014 | 5
CONTENTS 18
44
40
14
c it y p u l s e
a rt & c u lt u r e
8 metro beat
48 exhibition highlights
shopping 96 new collection:
12 hot plates:
52 interview:
melissa
park society
no boundaries
98 jj gem:
14 out and about:
55 cheat notes
traps & wanna
surviving chatuchak
56 photo feature:
99 unique boutique:
18 best of bangkok:
a home for history
again & again
burmese cuisine
52
food & drin k s n a p s h ot s
64 food & drink news
22 tom’s two satang
66 meal deals
24 very thai
67 restaurant reviews:
25 chronicle of thailand
smith, siam wisdom,
26 joe’s bangkok
saigon recipe, rang
28 bizarre thailand
mahal, great kabab
30 temples, historic
factory, kongju, rasa
buildings and museums
khas, moon glass
96 67
76 in the kitchen:
w ell n e s s
t r avel
gaggan anand
100 spa listings
36 up country now
77 eat like nym
101 chi spa,
38 hotel review
78 restaurant listings
shangri-la hotel
kampaeng phet
n i g h tli f e
reference
44 over the border:
86 nightlife news
102 getting there
auroville, india
88 review: gossip,
104 maps
namsaah bottling trust
112 my bangkok:
90 nightlife listings
peter lamb
40 up country escape:
ON THE COVER Experience a unique journey through Thailand’s deep south via the images of photographer Xavier Comas. Check out p56. 6 | AUGUST 2014
bangkok101.com
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metro beat
The Aristocrats
ROCK & POP
Hi5 The pop combo from children’s television programme Hi5 kick off their Hi-5 House Party Asia Tour 2014 in Bangkok this month. Parents are invited to bring their kids along to the Hi5 House Hits Live In Concert performance in which the group of five will belt out old favourites such as Dance With The Dinosaurs, Come On In, Summer Rainbows, Five Alive, Mix It Up!, Jump & Shout, Ready or Not and Make a Wish. The hour-long concert takes place at Bangkok Convention Center, Central Plaza Ladprao (1695 Phaholyothin Rd, 02-541-1234) on August 2 and 3. Tickets are priced at B800, B1500 and B2500. The sensational Aof Pongsak is giving a one-night-only Love Story Party with Aof Pongsak performance at Sote Samosorn (Ek Charoen, Rangsit, Pathum Thani, 089-022-8505) on August 7. The evening’s entertainment is hosted by MC PunIchima and features easy listening songs from Aof Pongsak’s previous albums and covers of many other well-known hits, plus appearances by DJ Dearlook and DJ Dominic. American Nu Metalcore band Issues hit the music scene in 2012. The band line-up, consisting of Tyler Carter (clean vocals), Michael Bohn (scream vocals), Case Snedecor (drums), A.J. Rebollo (guitar), Ty Acord aka Scout (bass), and Skyler Acord (bass) will give a Issues Live in Bangkok concert this August 14 at Mellow Yellow (RCA Zone S, Rama 9 Road). The performance features tracks from their debut album Black Diamonds. Presale tickets are available at Sick Chainsaws Metalshop (MRT Chatuchak) and Sin Shop (MRT Chatuchak / 2F Lido/ 3F Future Park Rangsit) for B900 and for B1200 at the concert venue. 8 | AUGUST 2014
Former Futon vocalist Gene Kasidit will perform his first solo concert, Gene Kasidit Blonde 2Be Wild on August 16. The concert takes place at ZEN Event Gallery Level 8 (ZEN, Rajdamri Road, 02-100-9999, zen.co.th) and features hits from his latest album Blonde, as well as a dashing fashion show in collaboration with 10 Thai designers. Dig out your glad-rags and prepare to dance! Tickets available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, thaiticketmajor.com) priced at B1200 and B1500. (Both prices are inclusive of a complimentary CD of the album). Celebrate the 16th anniversary of Overdrive Guitar magazine with The Aristocrats Live in Concert & Music Workshop on August 17 at Aksra Theatre King Power (King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Road, 02-677-8888, kingpower.com). The ‘superband’ consists of talented musicians Guthrie Govan, named a Guitarist of the Year by Guitarist Magazine (UK), Bryan Beller, former guitarist in band Dethklok, and Marco Minnemann, a German-born drummer and multi-instrumentalist. Tickets are priced at B900, B1200 and B1500 and available from Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, thaiticketmajor.com). After 1980s pop-jazz band Autobahn split up, former vocalistguitarist Eddie recorded a couple of solo albums. Tondai Tonpai, Kon Tee Jeb, and Muern Yu Nai Fun feature some of his most notable work and the musician returns to the stage this August 23 to perform an Eddie Autobahn My Inner Secret Concert at Siam Pavalai Royal Grand Theater (5F Siam Paragon Shopping Center, 02-129-4614, siamparagon.co.th). Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, thaiticketmajor.com) has tickets priced at B1000, B1500, B2000 and B2500.
CLASSICAL Sala Sudasiri Sobha (158/20 Ladprao 41 Yaek 7-2, 02-5418662, salasudasirisobha.com) invites you to enjoy a series of classical music performances beginning with Tanyawat Dilokkunanant (Clarinet) and Pana Yontararak (Piano) on August 2. Moto Shibui performs a piano recital on August 16 and Chatchawarn Atthakijkosol (Flute), Alenka Zupan (Flute) and Pana Yontararak (Piano) end the series with a performance on August 23. The shows start at 7.30pm and tickets cost B500 (inclusive of free parking and a complimentary light meal and beverages). Donations at the performances to support the Gift of Life Foundation are welcome. bangkok101.com
metro beat
FILM
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LECTURE A Talk by Dr. Peter Borschberg on Admiral Cornelis Matelieff in Asia, 1605 – 1608: the Siamese Connection will take place at The Siam Society (131 Asoke Montri Road, Sukhumvit 21, 02-661-6470-7, siam-society.org) on August 7. The reception is at 7pm - 7.30pm and the discussion is open to all, including non-members. Free entry.
SHOPPING The Thai International Travel Fair 2014, organised by the Thai Travel Agents Association, will showcase bargain tour packages from both local and international travel agencies as well as special hotel deals and other exclusive travel packages. The fair takes place at Queen Sirikit National Convention Center (60 New Rachadapisek Road, 02-293-000, qsncc.co.th) from August 14-17. The event also features live cultural performances and over 1,000 booths offering OTOP products from across the country.
Namesake Namesake, the Indian film by Oscar-nominated Mira Nair, will be screened at the Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Thailand (Penthouse, Maneeya Center Building 518/5 Ploenchit Rd) on August 21 as a part of a Contemporary World Film Series. The movie is a sensitive exploration of the sense of dislocation and quest for identity felt by expatriates and their children when they find temselves adrift between two cultures, and in particular the parallel realities of India and America.
FOOD AND BEVERAGE The launch of Eatigo offers diners a user-friendly application through which table reservations can be made at partner restaurants offering discounts of up to 50% during off-peak hours. This is a great way to enjoy dining experiences at restaurants that might otherwise be beyond one’s means. Tables can be booked online without any credit card information required or the need for the printing of coupons. The app is available for iPhone and Android platforms through the eatigo.com website. Indulge your sweet tooth at the Desserts Festival at Patummat International Restaurant (The Sukosol Hotel 477 Si Ayuthaya Road , 02-247-0123, thesukosol.com) until the end of August. Enjoy a parade of mouth-watering cakes, pastries and desserts prepared by Swiss pastry master Chef Gerhard. Highlights include a range of classic Viennese confections, German raspberry cream cake, Italian zuppa Inglese, French crème brûlée, and many more mouth-watering goodies. bangkok101.com
Cosmetic and Beauty Brand Fair It’s all about saving, or should we say enhancing, face at the Cosmetic and Beauty Brand Fair on August 21-24 at Queen Sirikit National Convention Center (60 New Rachadapisek Road, 02-293-000, qsncc.co.th). Beauty lovers can purchase make-up and skincare therapies from well-known brands, as well as other beauty-related products, at very special prices. In addition, experts from various brands will be on hand to share ideas on how to manage a beauty care business for those keen to start their own salon. As an alternative to the halls of Paragon or Central, why not try a street market for a different yet enjoyable vibe? K Village Street Market (95 Sukhumvit 26, 02-258-9919, kvillagebangkok.com) is held every third weekend of each month and, this month, it falls on August 15 from 5pm-10pm and on August 16-17 from 10am-10pm. Enjoy shopping for clothing, bags and shoes, accessories, products for children, gifts and homemade food. At the same venue, a Handmade and Homemade Fair is also held on the weekend of August 23-24. The Portobello-style market hosts an array of unique bakery shops and DIY product makers. Those who have a taste for healthy food will also find an array of organically-grown ingredients provided by local farmers. AUGUST 2014 | 9
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metro beat
MOTHER’S DAY SPECIALS
So Spa Treatment for Mom Mother’s Day is upon us and a variety of promotions exclusively for the occasion are on offer at many venues across Bangkok. Here are some suggestions to celebrate with your mum and please note, some of these promotions are available throughout the entire month of August. Treat mummy-dearest on August 12 with the ‘Dine 2 Pay 1’ offer at The Terrace@72, Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside (02-688-1000, ramadaplazamenamriverside. com). The promo offers lunch at B813 and dinner for B1060. Whichever you choose, mum gets a complimentary 15-minute massage at Massira Spa and a health check up at the Thonburi2 hospital. Throughout August, W Hotel (106 North Sathorn Road, 02344-4000, starwoodhotels.com/whotels) invites you to spend a relaxed hour or two with your mum enjoying the Mom & Me package at Away Spa. The spa’s signature massage treatments and beauty therapies create a shared bliss not quickly forgotten. Another pampering spa package is available at So Spa at Sofitel So Bangkok (2 North Sathorn Road, 02-624-0000, sofitel-so-bangkok.com). So Special Treatment for Mom includes a foot massage, a 30-munite fleur de riz body scrub and 90 minutes of jasmine aroma massage, all for the very special price of B3500 per person. Until August 31. It doesn’t have to be a fancy treat to make your mum feel your love, sometime just sitting down and having a cup of tea together is enough to express how great it is to be with her on this special day. On August 12, the lobby of Four Seasons Hotel (155 Rajadamri Road, 02-650-2650, fourseasons.com) 10 | AUGUST 2014
is having a Mother’s Day afternoon tea buffet, featuring scrumptious sweets, cakes, scones, savory treats and piping hot tea or brewed coffee all served in a relaxing ambience. Available at B950 per person. Cooking with mum is another creative way to enjoy her special day, especially if it involves chocolate! At Chocolab (GF Sofitel So Bangkok, 02-624-0000, sofitel-so-bangkok.com) on August 12, a chocolate cooking class is offered free to all mothers. B800 per accompanying child. Take your mum and family to Café Claire at Oriental Residence (110 Wireless Road, 02-125-9000, oriental-residence.com) this Mother’s Day and enjoy a memorable meal with an exclusive smoothie and a complimentary main dish just for mum from the restaurant’s signatures choices, which include fish & chips, duck confit, penne tuna, chicken ragout and pork belly. Siam Paragon welcomes a season of love with the launch of HARNN jasmine mineral body mist. Limited to just 400 items, they make perfect gifts for mum with products suited to everyday use and made from natural ingredients. Discover your nearest HARNN outlet by visiting the harnn.com website.
HARNN jasmine mineral body mist
A CULINARY STAR
There’s
a new chef in town and he is working his culinary magic among the stars at Red Sky and Fifty Five at the Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld.
Manning the stoves in the two signature restaurants of Bangkok’s only fully integrated fivestar hotel, convention centre and lifestyle complex is a Frenchman. And Hugo Coudurier is no stranger to working with the stars. After culinary school in Dijon, he worked alongside Jean-Jacques Noguier at the Michelin-starred La Ferme De L’Hospital in Bossey. His journey also took him to the Hotel des Trois Valees in Courcheval, before moving to the three-Michelin star restaurant Guy Savoy Paris as the sous chef. Las Vegas was his next stop as executive chef of Restaurant Guy Savoy at Caesar’s Palace. Before making his way to Southeast Asia, Hugo was in charge of the kitchen at the boutique K108 Hotel in Doha, Qatar His signature additions to the menu at Red Sky are a combination of both classical and contemporary French dishes that are designed to wow the senses. Start of your gastronomic experience with the sublime moreish Black Truffle Artichoke Soup accompanied by a delightful toasted mushroom brioche. Then the delicate flavours that come together perfectly in his elegant Avocado & Scottish Samoked Salmon
Gnocchi served with dill, pickled onions and lemon butter, or the Novia Scotia Lobster “Vol Au Vent”, which offers a burst of light creaminess across the palate. Other standouts include Oven Roasted Halibut with Jasberry Rice, Caramelized Endives and Morel sauce and a personal favourite, the Poached Bresse “Poussin” Baby Chicken with Truffle & Foie Gras Fragrant Basmati Rice and a magnificent velvety Albufera sauce. Showcasing his classical culinary upbringing is a fork tender Wagyu Beef Tenderloin “Rossini” with foie gras, black truffle, wild mushrooms and Madeira sauce, and a another timeless dish, Warm Old-fashioned Apple Tart and a Vanilla Bourbon Ice Cream. There is no doubt that this marriage of Hugo’s inspirational menu with the remarkable 300-label wine list straddling both the Old and New Worlds, jaw-dropping panoramic vistas and groovy music from the live jazz band definitely makes Red Sky the only place to impress an out-of-town guest, celebrate the close of a business deal, or even pop that question.
www.centarahotelsresorts.com
•
T: +66 (0) 2 100 6255
•
E: diningcgcw@chr.co.th
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hot plates
Park Society by Howard Richardson
A
ustralian chef Angela Brown took over the kitchens at Park Society early in the year and in the process bagged herself one of the best views in the city. The romantic tables along the full wall windows are well worth booking ahead for the arc of night lights spreading beyond Lumpini Park to Ratchaprasong. Not many venues make Bangkok look better than this, despite the bar of window frame placed at eye level. The very French interior lives up to the scene, staged like a Parisian salon of angular, vaguely art deco curios, a reflecting silver metal wall and well waxed wooden floor. The waiters wear outfits by Christian Lacroix. As well as the a la carte offerings, the menu has a monthly promotion (five courses at B2990) and a chef concept menu (B4800, including a glass of champagne), in which Angela stops by for a chat and creates something based on what you reveal. It’s the culinary equivalent of the psychiatrist’s couch. Pretend to be barking mad and see what she comes up with. Our meal began on cured kingfish with ponzu (B650), done with a delicate cure so the fish remained moist and tender and not overly salty. With good matching elements in heirloom tomatoes, avocado purée, gazpacho foam and pickled shallot, it was a light, refreshing start to what developed into an excellent meal. An exceptional lobster tortellini (B650), also among the appetisers, came as two big chunks of sweet lobster meat in pasta, served in a bowl of lobster bisque with crab meat, mushrooms and the bitter balance of wilted greens. Restrained XO sauce added a hint of spice. There are fifteen wines by the glass plus sparklers (B350-B620) and three flights of three wines each (B600-1000). Bottles – big on French, but with a decent choice of world regions – start at B1500 and reach B150,000 if you fancy the 96 Petrus. The mains included roasted pork loin and crispy pork belly with pea puree, baby carrot, caramelised onion, red wine sauce and baby apple (B1800). The belly, confited in duck fat then pan fried to crisp the surface, was a menacingly rich highlight, and the three medallions of pork loin had wonderful flavour. They were slightly overcooked, but the dish was so tasty I really didn’t care. They also nailed Lamb Three Ways (B1900), the loin, chop and leg rillette of great quality and beautifully cooked with grilled veg, lamb jus and a delicate spider web of crispy potato on top. For dessert, take a mixed berry soufflé, make a hole in the top and drop in the accompanying sorbet for a sweet dance of hot and cold. In several of our previous visits there have been slight mis-steps with the food here. Emphatically not so this time. With every dish perfectly seasoned and beautifully presented, Park Society serves dinner to match the stunning view.
PARK SOCIETY
[MAP 8/K16]
Fl29, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd | 02-624-0000 | sofitel.com OPEN Daily 6pm-10.30pm.
12 | AUGUST 2014
bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2014 | 13
out & about
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SURVIVING
CHATUCHAK It’s big, there’s no getting around it. Bangkok’s Chatuchak Weekend Market proclaims itself the “world’s largest flea market” and its probably true, so getting around it takes a little bit of local cunning. by MIKE MOORE
W
ith over 9,000 stalls Chatuchak possesses everything you ever expected to find in a flea market: handicrafts, furniture, ceramics, bric‑a‑brac, plants, fish, animals, gizmos, original artworks, new and used clothing, they’re all available, plus truckloads of stuff you never even knew existed. Chatuchak is endlessly entertaining, makes imaginations soar and often triggers shopping frenzies, but it can also be intimidating, confusing, frustrating and downright uncomfortable. If ever the Boy Scout maxim “be prepared” applied, it’s at Chatuchak. Advance preparation, patience and an open mind can make a visit to this sea of merchandise a never‑to‑be‑forgotten experience, without it, the day can turn into a monumental disaster. Here is the checklist any good Boy Scout (or Girl Scout) will have in their pocket. Follow it and sure you’ll have a good time. Getting There. Chatuchak is simple to reach. The end-of-the-line Mor Chit Skytrain station is located adjacent to the market and the Chatuchak Park MRT subway stop is found only a few feet from the Skytrain stop. Your guidebook might say to use these stations, but forget it! To start with, the Skytrain is often uncomfortably crowded and the Mor Chit Station is always only a step
from chaos. The MRT is far less hectic, but don’t use the Chatuchak Park stop, instead go one station further and get off at the Kamphaeng Phet station. It is located inside the market and Exit 2 opens onto one of the Chatuchak’s most spacious areas. If your Bangkok digs are located near the Skytrain, remember you can transfer from the Skytrain to the MRT at either the Asoke or Saladaeng stations. Go Early. Even if you spent the previous night partying, get out of bed early and plan to arrive at the market when it opens at 9am. It will be much cooler, less crowded and when it comes to bargains, remember early birds are the ones that usually get them. In addition, try to go on Saturday rather than Sunday. Many Thais work on Saturday morning and this makes the crowds slightly smaller. Sunday afternoons at the height of the tourist season add new dimensions to the word “crowded” and are best suited for masochists. Getting Inside. This is important so read it carefully! If you don’t follow our advice and take the Skytrain, you will get off at the Mor Chit station. The crowds leaving the station make like bees and join the hordes arriving by bus to head for Entrance 18 (marked on many maps as “The Entrance”). In fact, this is the worst possible
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out & about
place to enter Chatuchak Market. The problems with Entrance 18 are compounded by the fact it opens into Chatuchak’s most popular section, the area devoted to new and used clothing. This means the crowds attempting to get in are more than matched by those already inside. If you want to go to the clothing area, walk to Entrance 18 and then proceed a couple of hundred meters to the right until you come to a large entrance accessible to cars. Enter here and proceed to the clothing area by taking one of the narrow corridors to your left. If you are not interested in clothing, keep on walking and you will soon be in the centre of the market. Finding Your Way Around. Even a pathfinder like Daniel Boone would get lost in Chatuchak. Maps are needed and they are located on sign boards throughout the market. The only problem is they are too few in number and never around when you need them. It is far better to buy your own map before going to the market. They are available at bookshops throughout the city, but are surprisingly difficult to find at Chatuchak itself. It is a good idea to study the map before starting your trip. Once you get there, reason and common sense often succumb to the desire to shop. Take it Easy. Chatuchak is enormous so forget about seeing everything in a single day. Take it easy and specifically look at certain sections or plan on visiting the market more than once. It is always crowded and hot so don’t get caught up with your shopping and forget to drink lots of water. It is also a good idea to take 16 | AUGUST 2014
a break every so often at one of the numerous places in the market to eat and drink. If you have children, or want an extended break, relax in one of the beautiful parks adjacent to the market. You can do like the Thais and have a picnic on the grass while the kids enjoy the various playgrounds. Security Concerns. Given its size and the number of people present, Chatuchak Market is remarkably safe. It does, however, have occasional problems with pickpockets. It is best to keep your wallet in a buttoned pocket and to take a purse with a strap you can place around your neck. You are especially vulnerable when you are absorbed with something you want to buy. Never put your purse or wallet down while looking at merchandise. There are a lot of police available at the market in the unlikely event you run into trouble. Convenience Matters. There are toilets at Chatuchak, but like toilets in most public places, they are a bit grungy. Sit down toilets are available, but they often don’t have a seat! Also be sure to buy some toilet paper at one of the vendors outside the toilet as it won’t be available inside. If you buy something that you want shipped back home, there are several reliable shipping companies available. ATM’s and change booths can be found both inside and in the area surrounding the market. Chatuchak Weekend Market is one of Bangkok’s most fascinating places to visit, but it requires advance preparation. If you follow the above advice and plan ahead you should have a good time and return home with those sought-after bargains. bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
AUGUST 2014 | 17
best of bangkok
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New Sensations Thai food has undergone a renaissance in recent years – will Burmese food, amid heightened interest in Myanmar, enjoy a similarly meteoric rise? BY TOM STURROCK
I
t’s hard to imagine now, but there was a time when Thai food didn’t cast such a long shadow internationally. Before the tourism boom of the 1980s, Thailand was not the great tourism hotspot it is today and nor was its cuisine so widely celebrated. Now, Thai food has been exported to every corner of the globe – it has allowed native chefs to carve their own niche at home and, just as surely, fascinates non-Thai chefs from abroad. For all the contentious arguments about authenticity and Thai flavours being diluted for a foreign palate, there is an undoubted net benefit for Thailand to have so many people besotted by its cuisine. If that’s a problem, it’s a good one to have. As Thai food bathes in this glow of attention, one of its neighbours may be taking the first steps down the path embarked upon by Thailand 30-odd years ago. As Myanmar opens its doors, albeit slowly at first, so will its kitchens attract a stampede of curious foodies, eager to find the next culinary craze. This cuisine, sealed away for so long, could just as well be served on a petri dish. Will Burmese food, as a result of greater exposure, follow the same trajectory as Thai cuisine? One man well-equipped to answer this question is Robert Carmack, co-author of The Burma Cookbook: Recipes from the Land of a Million Pagodas. Carmack is a life-long foodie who is based in Australia. He travels back and forth to Asia several times a year to eat, travel and combine these two pursuits in a series of food tours (check globetrottinggourmet.com for more details). “I fell into writing Thai cookbooks and it probably took me a while to really appreciate the strong flavours of Thai food – maybe that’s because of my French training,” he explains. “But I came to learn that Thai food is all about marrying different dishes, that’s when it really comes alive. And the way I researched Thai food was all about finding the best food in different areas, coming to grips with regional food and working with locals to develop what I was writing. bangkok101.com
I learned that wherever you go, people go through the same experiences when it comes to new cuisines – you start as a tourist, eating at hotels or other ‘safe’ places; then you decide to start roughing it and taking your chances with the street food; then, once you’ve started to understand the cuisine, you really know the best places to go to get certain things.” Eventually, Robert, along with his partner and coauthor Morrison Polkinghorne, were persuaded to take this experience and turn it into a tourism business – essentially taking people to exotic locations to teach them about the tastiest food on offer.
AUGUST 2014 | 19
CITY PU LSE
best of bangkok
“I suppose the first tour I did was planned like I was researching a book,” Carmack says. “I didn’t want to explore generic Thai – Asian food is so unique that we went down the road of trying to teach technique and understanding flavours. I did a Vietnamese book in there as well, went to Laos and spent a lot of time exploring Isaan food. And although we’d been going to Myanmar, or Burma as it was called, since 1996, we didn’t start doing tours until much later. And really, it’s just by luck that our cookbook came out as the country is beginning to open up.” The book in question is a treasure trove of information, beautifully designed a laid out in a way that pairs recipes with historical vignettes. It’s a travelogue, history book and recipe guide all in one. “We didn’t want it to be an esoteric Burmese cookbook - it had to appeal and be a bit more expressionist, particularly with the country coming into a moment of great interest and attention,” Carmack explains. “At the same time, there needed to be an understanding of the history – the subcontinental influence, for example. That overview is essential if you want to understand a country through its food.” As a thumbnail sketch, Burmese cuisine employs many of the same ingredients as other Southeast Asian cuisines but its approach bears greater signs of subcontinental influence. “In terms of the components, there are some similarities to Thai food but the flavor profiles are very different,” Carmack says. “One big way it deviates is through the use of jageree sugar instead of palm sugar. You get that effect in the fermented tea leaf salads, which are very unique to Burma. And then it’s really about the subtlety of flavours and, I suppose, the absence of dry spice. Thai curries, for example, are really assertive, whereas 20 | AUGUST 2014
Burmese curries are more like humble Western stews.” And just as it took Thailand a little while to export the message that it had much more to offer above and beyond pad thai and green curries, Burmese food may need to cultivate an image abroad. It will need advocates to promote it, explain it and, to some extent, protect it.
THREE BURMESE STAPLES Rakhine chicken curry - rakhine kyet thar hin Rub 1kg of chicken on the bone with soy sauce and turmeric. Marinate for 15 minutes. Fry four small onions, ginger and garlic before adding the chicken. Add water or stock and saffron, then add curry leaves and shrimp paste. Simmer covered for 45 minutes before serving with a drizzle of coconut cream and rice. Dried fish salad - nga thoke Slice 100g of hot-smoked cod into thin pieces. Then, in a wok, fry one tablespoon of shallots in a little oil until soft and set aside. Fry the fish in the same oil, add one small chopped tomato, before stirring in a chopped chilli, the cooked shallot, one freshly squeezed lime and one sprig of fresh coriander. Tomato mixed salad - kha yan chin thee thoke Soak half a cup of shallots in lime juice and salt and slice four small tomatoes, four leaves of white cabbage and a quarter cup of onion. Bring it all together in a serving bowl and drizzle with fish sauce and the leftover lime, then mix with chilli, fresh coriander, peanuts and dried shrimp. Lastly, fry your shallots and add them to the mix.
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NUMBERS, ANIMALS, COLOURS; ALL AND MORE ARE USED AS THE BASIS FOR NICKNAMES IN THAILAND
insight
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Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
On Nicknames
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n Thailand we tend to refer to each other by nickname, also widely used for nicknames. Khiew (green) and Som or chue len. Almost everyone has one. In days gone (orange) are common, while Pink is fashionable for a girl. by our first or individual names were short and mostly Nicknames like Pae (goat), Ghai (chicken), Nok (bird), Noo monosyllabic, such as Nai Khaow, “Mr. White,” or Nang (mouse), Pla (fish), Ghob (frog), Maew (cat), Dtai (as in Mhai, “Mrs. New.” Even the names of monarchs were ghra-dtai or rabbit) and Poo (crab) are all well used too. generally simple before they were enthroned. For example, However, while you can call someone Mhuu (pig), you King Rama II was born as ‘Shim’, whereas his royal or can never call them Mhaa (dog) because of the negative official title ran to almost three-lines. connotations relating to dogs within Thai culture. Today there are no hard and fast rules for nicknames Mali (Jasmine), Noi Nhaa (custard apple), Dtal (sugar in Thailand. Anything goes, so as in the West, Thai palm), Petch (diamond) and Ploy (gem) all sound sweet, nicknames can derive from an abbreviation of a full dainty and precious. But if you want more stylish and first name. Hence where Liz, Liza, Beth or Betty spring internationalised names, you can opt for Fern, Rose, from Elizabeth, here first names such as Chanchira can Peach, (Ap)Ple or Opal among others. Several other cutesy become Chan (the Moon) or Phol (strength or energy) names come from food, especially desserts, such as Cake, from Akhraphol. Cookie, Cupcake, and Pancake. In the more recent past That said, it is the case that most Thai nicknames have trendy Thais and their parents adopted foreign words and nothing to do with one’s first brand names for nicknames. name at all. Simply for ease of These days one doesn’t bat These days one doesn’t bat an eyelid when remembrance, parents may an eyelid when one hears one hears a person referred to as Ice, Bank, well give multiple children a person referred to as sequential nicknames based Beer, Cartoon, Pepsi, Benz, or Audi. Even ‘God’ Ice, Bank, Beer, Cartoon, on letters of the alphabet, i.e. Pepsi, Benz, or Audi. Even beginning with A, B, C or D, has been used as a nickname! ‘God’ has been used as a or, as is a popular tradition in nickname! Perhaps this is a some families, nicknames beginning with the same letter – case of globalisation at its corniest or imitation gone awry. think Dtim, Dtom and Dtam or the more contemporary Recently, however, there has been a backlash to these Gift, Golf and Gap, all very reminiscent of the characters foreign words. Parents with flair for the Thai language Ping, Pong and Pang from the opera Turandot. have started to give their offspring longer Thai nicknames The most familiar nicknames are given based on based on simple yet meaningful words. Nicknames such physical traits or a facet of a child’s character. Words as Bai Dtong (banana leaf), Thongdaeng (copper), Fahsai that describe height, size, shape and complexion are (clear sky), Sainahm (stream), Ghati (coconut milk) and used such as Lek (small), Ouan (fat), Yai (big), Nid (little), Kwankhao (rice spirit) are coming to the fore. Even first and Daeng or Dum (red or dark, as in complexion). They names are based on these attractive yet unpretentious can also be given based on order of birth, hence Dton words, like Sairung (rainbow) or Saifon (raindrop). In fact (beginning or first), Ghlang (middle), and Noi (minor). they often relate to nature or a natural phenomenon that Sometimes the order can be based on something as occurred when the child was born, a tradition that is obvious as numbers, such as Nueng (one), Song (two), also common to Native American cultures. Whatever the Saam (three) and Sii (four) but in a globalised world, A, B, nickname though, be it cute, whimsical or prosaic, you C and D are also used. can be sure it has an interesting story behind it. The names of colours, animals, plants and food are bangkok101.com
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very thai
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PAINT ME A PICTURE
images of thai royal family are everywhere
cross the Kingdom, every home, office, business and public building displays at least one royal portrait. Thais identify their monarchs with good fortune, progress and pride in nation and Thainess. It ensures royal portraits are regarded with deep reverence. The face of the current King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) is given pride of place. His Majesty’s picture is frequently paired with the beautiful visage of Queen Sirikit. Among other members of the royal family, Crown Prince Vachiralongkorn is often shown in military uniform and Princess Sirindhorn is widely pictured engaged in good works and cultural endeavours. The late Somdej Ya (the Princess Mother who bore Kings Rama VIII and IX) is depicted in many homes. So are two great former rulers, Rama IV (King Mongkut) and Rama V (King Chulalongkorn), in tribute for securing Siam’s independence and development. In the West, mass media has helped undermine the status of monarchy, yet in Thailand new technology has extended the royal portrait’s reach. The King’s face is ever-present on television, in film and now on the internet. Each cinema chain also screens its own rendition of the King’s Anthem. Before a movie, everyone without exception stops munching popcorn or rustling bags and stands to show respect.
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip CornwelSmith | B 995
Photos: Phil Cornwel-Smith
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, ‘Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture’ is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.
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chronicle of thailand
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September 2-13, 1949:
Thai team puts some spin on ping-pong diplomacy
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Squad heads to China for international table tennis tournament in an effort to improve strained Sino-Thai relations
hailand and China literally entered into ping-pong diplomacy in a bid to improve relations. Beijing invited Bangkok to send a delegation of ping-pong players to slap paddles in an international tournament in China. US-backed Bangkok opposed communist China’s efforts to spread its political ideology in Thailand and elsewhere in Southeast Asia, but the games were designed to ease hostilities. Thailand joined 25 other teams from the Middle East and Asia in the first Asian Table Tennis Championship in Beijing on 2 – 13 September. The Thai squad entered China on 27 August, the first official contact between the two nations since communist seized Beijing in 1949. Outstanding issues between the two nations included Beijing’s alleged support for communist guerrillas in Thailand, suspicion about the Royalties of ethnic Chinese living in the kingdom, and Thai trade deals with Taiwan. The Thai were invited on a tour of the country after the tournament and returned on 22 September with praise for the people of China. Thai officials also met with Chinese Prime Minister Chou En-lai in a historic meeting in the Great Hall of the People, moving the nations toward trade and other bilateral relations short of full diplomatic ties. ‘[Mr Chou] welcomes friendship on a basis of equality,’ said National Executive Council member Prasit Kanchanawat. Thai ping-pong team leader Gen Chumphol Lohachala, however, seemed more concerned with the local entertainment hot spots than international diplomacy. ‘We felt rather lonely. There was no nightlife,’ he said. Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivide eye-witnessaccount of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced.
Taxi
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> Chronicle of Thailand
EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450
still life in moving vehicles
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or some Bangkok cabbies, a plain grey car interior where they spend as many as twelve hours a day working, is simply just too, well, plain. The driver of this taxi, for example, added some flair to his cab with shiny patterned vinyl on the ceiling. It makes sense that some Thais would have an appreciation for decorative motifs when you consider how Thai architecture, decorative arts, textiles, and handicrafts have long included pattern in the design. This geometric pattern, however, is obviously far from traditional. It looks more like it came out of a 1980’s music video.
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Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, still life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com). Published by River Books, the spin-offbook, Thai Taxi Talisman, is available at bookstores around town for B995.
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Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
A Walk in the Park
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or the last six years I’ve lived in an apartment five minutes’ walk from Lumpini Park, the green ‘Lung of Bangkok’. Proximity to this free civic resource was one of the main reasons I chose the location, and I’ve enjoyed being able to take impromptu strolls along its winding walkways or stretch out in the grass with my Kindle, keeping an eye on the fat monitor lizards basking in the sun nearby. Suan Lum (short for Suan Lumpini), as the Thais usually call it, is an icon in a city where such icons are relatively few. Created by King Rama VI in the 1920s, it is Bangkok’s oldest park, and until relatively recently the alakes joined by a slow-flowing canal. A major recreational focus for people living in the older districts of Sathorn, Bangrak and Chinatown, the park teems with people in the morning practicing tai chi, jogging, renting pedalboats or taking naps in the shade. On Sunday evenings during the cool season, the 80-piece Bangkok Symphony Orchestra performs in the Palm Garden band shell, drawing classical music lovers from all over the city. 26 | AUGUST 2014
Less well known assets in the park include Bangkok’s oldest public library (open Tues-Sun, 8am-8pm) and the Bangkok Senior Citizens Club, which contains a revolving ballroom dance stage among other facilities for the elderly. There is also the Bird Watching Course, an area full of trees that have become a sanctuary to over 30 avian species. The BMA Apprentice School offers vocational training in computer science, dressmaking, hairdressing and cooking to the general public for free. On the last Sunday of every month, from 7am to 9am, Dharma in the Park organises dhamma talks and food offerings to monks. In TripAdvisor’s 2014 Traveller’s Choice Awards for Attractions, Lumpini was named one of Asia’s top five parks, alongside Singapore Botanic Gardens, Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, Nan Lian Garden (Hong Kong) and Kenrokuen Garden (Japan). I recently discovered that in December 1956, when jazz clarinettist Benny Goodman and his band visited Thailand during a US State Department-sponsored tour bangkok101.com
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of Asia, they set up in the band shell and recorded 16 songs before a live audience. The recordings weren’t released until 1997 as a TCB Records CD entitled Bangkok 1956. A review of the album in the All Music Guide reads: This is one of the more unusual live CDs by Benny Goodman, recorded in December 1956 over two days in Bangkok, Thailand. He leads a 13-piece group, which includes Budd Johnson and Peanuts Hucko in the reed section, along with pianist Hank Jones and bassist Israel Crosby. Goodman and his band are at their very best, in spite of playing outdoors and competing, on occasion, with a passing train; this early stereo recording, performed with just two microphones, was made with the clarinettist’s permission. In addition to favourites like “Don’t Be That Way,” “One O’Clock Jump” and “Flying Home,” Goodman surprises the audience by playing two works composed by His Majesty the King of Thailand, as well as a brief sign off of the “Thai Royal Anthem.” This historic CD is well worth acquiring. In these tempestuous political times, the park has come under considerable stress, occupied first by the United Front for Democracy Against Dictatorship (UDD) camp in 2010 and then by People’s Democratic bangkok101.com
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Reform Committee (PDRC) supporters from the end of 2013 until May this year. I stayed away from Lumpini during both occupations (during the PDRC period, the Sunday concerts were cancelled), although I know some regular visitors continued their park activities more or less unhindered. As a historical aside, this isn’t the only era when politics interfered with the park. During World War II, Japanese soldiers turned Lumpini into their main Bangkok camp. When the PDRC finally left in mid May, hundreds of cleaning staff and volunteers worked tirelessly to clean and restore the park. I finally revisited two weeks ago on an early weekday morning. Much of the grass towards the south end of the part, where PRDC supporters had created a tent city, is still missing but for the most part the park seems to have returned to normal. After a filling breakfast of rice and curry at the park’s Sri Thai Doem Food Center (open daily 4.30-10am), I took a wander down the pathways, delighting in the familiar sight of grannies practising tai chi, people sipping tea at clusters of round cement tables, and a cosmopolitan variety of people jogging and exercising, all backed by the usual soundtrack of birdsong, water fountains and the noise of distant traffic. AUGUST 2014 | 27
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Bizarre
Thailand
A 20-year resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has contributed to many guidebooks and is also the author of Tuttle Travel Pack Thailand. He compiled tales of the unexpected into a book called ‘Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic’. For more bytes and pixels check out jimalgie.com.
Weekend Warriors:
Military Tourism in Thailand
D
uring the 2010 protests on the streets of Bangkok when thousands of red-shirted demonstrators squatted in the ritzy area of Rachaprasong, gaggles of travellers and tour groups shepherded by Thai guides descended on the danger zone, walking past barricades of tyres spiked with bamboo spears and brambles of razor wire, through checkpoints where their bags were searched for firearms, and into an atmosphere that almost resembled a temple fair. Vendors hawked sunglasses, T-shirts and red, heart-shaped clappers. Noodle stalls served up bowls of soup. On the stage, in between leaders delivering diatribes attacking the government as a ‘dictatorship’ and, in displays of schoolyard bravado mocking the prime minister’s virility and sexual preferences, the crowds danced, cheered and grinned to the tune of the heartsick love songs that have long dominated the Thai pop charts. None of the tourists could have missed the glaring disparity between the haves and the have-nots, reflected 28 | AUGUST 2014
by the sight of hundreds of rural folks camped out beneath signs for designer brands in the soon-to-betorched-and-gutted CentralWorld, where few of them could ever have afforded to shop. Many visitors also spotted a familiar figure walking through the crowd. Clad in army fatigues, the rogue general nicknamed ‘Seh Daeng’ was besieged by admirers. Group after group of Thais wanted their photos taken with the soldier who had defied army orders to become the red shirts’ security chief—a man who frequently boasted about how many communists he had killed in the 1970s; a man whose plan to oust the yellow-shirted protestors from government house in 2008 involved dropping snakes on them from helicopters. But the general-gone-AWOL did not command such respect from the downtrodden for these dubious deeds and plans. Many of the protestors I interviewed expressed variations on a similar theme: at last someone in power had come over to their side; at last someone bangkok101.com
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with military and political clout was treating them with respect and consideration. To be fair, the yellow shirts and the urbanites of Bangkok charged that the protestors were being paid by former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra and used as pawns to checkmate the government on a political chessboard. In person, it was difficult to dislike the charismatic and congenial soldier. Seh Daeng smiled and shook my hand. Patiently and politely, he answered all of the questions I fired off in Thai. And he was equally considerate to a troupe of travellers who wanted their photos taken with him. Watching the crowds surrounding him, a young Englishwoman said, “This guy is like a rock star.” She had a point. Where else in the world would a soldier command the kind of adulation usually reserved for rock and film stars? Only a week later Seh Daeng was shot in the head by a still- unidentified sniper. He succumbed to his injuries a few days after. The mourning and celebrations that greeted his death were reminders of Thailand’s long-standing love and loathing for the military, paired with respect for men, women and children in all kinds of uniforms. That’s easy to see. Scan any street in the kingdom for the schoolgirls, boy scouts, bank tellers, bureaucrats, college students, soldiers and sailors, all in their neat and crisp uniforms. Watch the security guards in the gated residences of the rich as they give military-style salutes to the BMW-driving tycoons. Try and navigate the serpentine minefields of political, economic and judicial power that are tangled up in the red tape and remnants of military might. Work in any big Thai company where a militaristic structure of topdown rule ensures a chain of command that keeps the rank-and-file in a state of unquestioning subservience. Flip through any newspaper and the names of the main players in the theatre of politics, such as General Chavalit Yongchaiyudh and Major General Chamlong Srimuang, bangkok101.com
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reveal a military pedigree. Even the most fundamental of Thai gestures, the wai (sign language for hello, goodbye and thanks), made up of palms clasped together and head bowed, reveals different degrees of deference to those of higher social rankings. Signs of the army’s fiscal and political might are everywhere—broadcast by the military-owned Channel 3 and bankrolled by the wealth of bank branches across the country. Once known as the Thai Military Bank, the name has been shortened to the more innocuous TMB. Nevertheless, the two dots above the M have always struck me as strange. Do they look more like bullet holes or eyes? For most travellers passing through the most they will see, even during a coup, are a few surreal scenes on TV and some soldiers on the streets. Helen Beetrovski, a visitor from Denmark, recalled the bloodless coup of 2006: “All the TV channels went off the air before a message flashed up on the blank screens, which my Thai friends translated as, ‘We have taken control of the city. Apologies for the inconvenience.’ It was really sweet of them to apologise like that. Then a group of generals with royalist armbands appeared on the screen to say they’d ousted the prime minister and seized power.” Having never seen a tank before, her mother wanted to go to Government House the next day. Helen followed the day after that, astonished by the fact that she could have her photos taken with the soldiers and even climb on a tank to hold the gun turret. “It was almost a tourist attraction kind of thing, with soldiers handing out bottles of water,” she said. This is an excerpt from Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourism attractions. AUGUST 2014 | 29
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listings
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall [map 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo Tue -Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam noen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [map 4/A3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 jimthompsonhouse.com | 9am-5pm B100 / B 50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them.
M.r. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [map 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 02-286-8185 Sat-Sun 10 am-5pm, Mon-Fri by appt B 50 / B 20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION [map 8/F8] 139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd | 02-281-1569 9:30 am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD palace [MAP 8/K11] Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 suanpakkad.com | 9am-4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
ERAWAN SHRINE [map 4/G5] Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here. This is one
of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30 pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
SHRINES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [map 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094 8:30am-4:30pm | B 400 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in
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listings
a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.
WAT ARUN [map 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd 02-465-5640 | watarun.org 8am-5pm | B 20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.
WAT PO (reclining buddha) [map 7/D12]
Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd 02-226-0369 | watpho.com 8am-noon, 1pm-9pm | B100 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.
WAT MAHATHAT [map 7/C8] Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm | Free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are
set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.
WAT RATCHANATDA [map 7/K8] Mahachai Rd | 02-224-8807 9am-5pm | free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.
WAT SAKET [map 7/L8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.
WAT SUTHAT & the GIANT SWING [map 7/H9] Bamrung Muang Rd | 02-222-9632 9am-5pm | B 20 Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to
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catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
WAT TRAIMIT [map 6/L3] 661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B 20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [map 8/L11, 12]
85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng). Ratchaprarop Rd 02-245-3008 | bangkokdolls.com Mon-Sat 8am-5pm | free Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
bangkokian MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking
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listings
revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
Madame tussauds [map 4/C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-658-0060 madametussauds.com/Bangkok 10am -9pm | B 800 / B 600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe's famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 02-653-5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm ( App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it's open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
Museum of Siam [map 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier 02-622-2599 | ndmi.or.th Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | Free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with 32 | AUGUST 2014
pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [map 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang 02-224-1333 | thailandmuseum.com Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B 200 | no photo Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam's main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [map 7/K7] 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02-621-0044 nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hardto-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [map 7/B4] 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 02-424-0004 | 9am-5pm B 30 / B100 photo / B 200 video This collection of ornate royal barges,
some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [map 1/F6] 296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan province | 02-709-1644 | ancientcity.com B 500 / B 250 kids / B1500 private guide in English for two hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing.
THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1/E5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya Nakorn Pathom province nfat.org 02-482-2013-15 | Sat-Sun tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; MonFri: by appointment | Free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, props and costumes. bangkok101.com
THB 650++
FRIDAY MEAT & SEAFOOD BUFFET Savor a succulent feast of delicious meats and seafood every Friday from 6:00 pm at the Meat & Seafood buffet dinner. Superb salads, delicious desserts and a range of soft drinks complete the treat. Courtyard by Marriott Bangkok 155/1 Soi Mahadlekluang 1, Rajdamri Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330, Thailand t. +66 2690 1888 f. +66 2690 1899 courtyardbangkok.com facebook.com/courtyardmarriottbkk
August Promotion EVERY NIGHT Wine by the glass (white or red) including complementary tapas starting from 180 Baht. Peroni draft Italian beer at 150 Baht ++ Pizza takeaway 20% off for minimum orders of 3 pizzas Book a party for a minimum of 8 people and get a bottle of red/white/sparkling wine for FREE and limoncello on the house.
diVino The Wine Room
Thong Lo 16, Sukhumvit 55 Rd., 10110 Bangkok T: 02 714 8723 I www.divinobkk.com I marketing@divinobkk.com
Private room available
MALLETS AND MAHOUTS - ELEPHANT POLO COMES TO TOWN
King’s Cup Elephant Polo
BANGKOK T
he 13th King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament will be unpacking its trunks at Siam Polo Park at VR Sports Club in Bangkok over 28-31 August, 2014. This is the first time the jumbo-sized annual elephant polo fest will be held in the capital, and only the second occasion on which it has not been staged at Hua Hin. Whatever the venue though, the tournament is a crucial way of raising much-needed funds to support the lot of the Asian elephant in Thailand, particularly ‘street’ elephants. Since the event’s inception in 2001, over US$ 750,000 has been raised and put to good use by organizations such as the Thai Elephant Conservation Centre. Proceeds have also been used to fund the planting of trees to create upcountry ‘elephant corridors’, which help to reduce the risk of elephant/ farmer conflicts, and to stage educational programmes that teach local school children the importance of conservation and the protection of wild elephants. In the final analysis though, quite apart from being highly enjoyable for spectators and the participating teams – of which there were 16 last year encompassing 50 riders – the tournament is enormous fun for these naturally playful animals. It gives elephants usually found on Bangkok’s busy and polluted streets a few days of R&R that they simply don’t get in everyday life and they lap it up! In addition, during the festivities ‘the athletes’ are guaranteed unlimited quality food and each is fully checked over by a team of veterinarians who can prescribe essential medicines and vitamin supplements as required. For more information on the 13th King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament, visit www.anantaraelephantpolo.com
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August 4-10 Hua Hin Regatta This year marks the 14th edition of this luxurious sailing event. Organized by the Yacht Racing Association of Thailand (YRAT) and the Royal Thai Navy, Hua Hin Regatta is held in honour of His Majesty the King. More than 300 sailing enthusiasts compete in different classes for various prizes, all of which are presented in the name of the royal family. Visit yrat.or.th for more details.
August 9 Mini Light and Sound Show Sukhothai The purpose of these shows is to display the culture and history of this ancient Thai capital. The Mini Light and Sound Show is just a trailer to the magnificent Light and Sound Show that is presented during Sukhothai’s annual Loy Krathong and Candle Festival in November. However, the show is still mesmerizing with its fireworks displays, classical performances, and stunning light and sound concerts.
August 9, 29 Jungle Experience Party Get on a speedboat and head on over to Phangan Island for some extreme partying. Not as well-known as the Full Moon party but equally exhilarating, the Jungle Experience party has it all: from drinks and food to fire shows and neon body paint. Go all out ‘til the wee hours of the morning and recharge with a spectacular view of the sun rising over the surrounding mountains.
August 12 Steam Train Trip Travel back in time aboard an old-fashioned steam train this Mother’s Day. Starting from Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong station, the Pacific Steam locomotive travels all the way to Nakhon Pathom. Tickets are sold in several categories ranging from B222-B999. They can be bought at any railway station in Bangkok. So hop aboard to smell the smoke and hear the shrilling whistle of this classic locomotive.
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August 13-17 Thing Kra Jard Festival Suphanburi In Thailand, making merit and giving alms is a common site. Throwing offerings, however, is not so common. During this festival, offerings such as rice, bottled water and instant noodles are literally thrown into baskets on the floor. This is done to honour spirits with no relatives, as well as to help poor people in their time of need. Thousands gather at the festivities for free food.
Throughout August Sat Duan Sip Festival (Festival of the Tenth Lunar Month) The Festival of the Tenth Lunar Month is celebrated to honour one’s departed ancestors. The festival takes place in Nakhon Si Thammarat from the first to the last day of the waning moon in the tenth lunar month. People believe that this is the period in which the deceased visit the human world. During the festival, food offerings are elaborately prepared in colourful baskets and brought to monks at nearby monasteries.
Throughout August Akha Swing Festival Every year during the rainy season, the Akha tribe of Chiang Rai holds a Swing Festival, also known locally as Yae-Khu-A-Paew. The Swing Festival, staged to commemorate the goddess of fertility and honour women, is held in August because this is the time of year when crops are usually harvested. The festival lasts for four days during the peak time of the rainy season, so dates vary from year to year.
Throughout August Trang’s Cake Festival Trang, famous all over Thailand for its mouth-watering food, is holding its annual Cake Festival this August. The village of Ban Lam Phu Ra is especially famous for delicious cakes and scrumptious sweets. With recipes dating back several generations, these confections come in many flavours including orange, coffee, coconut, and many more. In addition to delectable cakes, other things on sale include gifts, souveniers, and OTOP products.
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hotel review
Centara Grand at CentralWorld CentralWorld, as the name suggests, is one of the great, glittering hubs of Bangkok, a hive of activity befitting this cosmopolitan centre. To the east, there is the seething mass of traffic on traffic and neon-flecked street stalls; to the west, the more demure foodie enclave of Groove. And, towering above the whole scene is Centara Grand, a hotel so keen on reaching for the sky that even its lobby is 20-odd floors up. For anyone exploring Bangkok, Centara Grand makes a fitting HQ – the sweeping antechamber offering floor-to ceiling views of everything from Ploenchit to the river. Like the best luxury hotels, it’s glamorous without appearing overbearing, chic yet still comfortable. In terms of wining and dining, Red Sky is the jewel in the crown here. The bar on the upper-most floor attracts urban stargazers keen to plot the various landmarks on Bangkok’s skyline by night with a well-made martini in hand. But the dining area downstairs, lit by the restaurant’s technicolour LED arch that stretches overhead, is also well worth a look, boasting a menu made up of inspired modern European dishes. The oysters served here are some of the best in town. Red Sky may be the signature venue at Centara but it’s not the only shot in the locker. Ginger balances 38 | AUGUST 2014
Japanese and Chinese cuisines on the same menu, while The World hosts a comprehensive breakfast buffet and cooking stations offering a global sweep. The rooms at the hotel are modern, angular and cleanly lit, but with unexpected splashes of colour adding warmth. For example, the spotlessly white bathrooms are offset delightfully by the eye-catching mosaic of the shower tiles, the muted tones of the sofas enlivened by the jazzier, vibrant cushions. It’s easy to forget you’re in a hotel, which is a compliment, even if it perhaps doesn’t sound like one. After a good night’s sleep, head downstairs for a treatment at the Spa Cenvaree. Explore the highceilinged foyer that folds out toward the rooftop or retreat into the low-lit, pine-scented corridors for a seriously relaxing Balinese massage and facial treatment. Either way, a stay at the Centara Grand is likely to leave you with a spring in your step.
Centara Grand at CentralWorld
[MAP 4/F3]
999/99 Rama 1 Rd | 02-100-1234 centarahotelsresorts.com
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Going
Bananas The bounty of Kamphaeng Phet BY KEITH MUNDY
N
ot much disturbs the sleepy ways of Kamphaeng Phet, a pleasant old town lounging beside the lazy Ping River, which is the great waterway of northern Thailand. Surrounded by an emerald-green plain of lush rice fields, it slumbers in well-fed contentment. Except when the banana harvest comes in. So plentiful and prized is this fruit in Kamphaeng Phet province that every September the provincial capital celebrates with the Ngaan Kluai Khai – the Egg Banana Festival – for the variety that thrives here is short and stubby, perhaps so much so in the distant past that it really looked like an egg. Nobody knows. Renowned for growing the best of Thai bananas, Kamphaeng Phet province’s harvest is bountiful, with more than 200 million Baht value of bananas produced annually. When it’s nearly all in, a parade of horticultural and human beauty glides down Main Street amidst throngs of townspeople, finishing up in front of the Provincial Hall. It’s a contest too, for the most beautiful float and the most glamorous beauty, Miss Egg Banana. Beauty queens sit atop fantastical floats decked with finelyworked pieces from every part of the banana tree applied to a polystyrene base. Most striking of all is a huge buffalo, its hide made of thousands of tucked and pleated banana-leaf pieces – a green-scaled beast with chin grazing the ground. Cutest is a little old tail-wheel aeroplane, a banana by-product Flying Fortress, its four piston engines formed by banana-flower pods, and with it a little control tower made from the brown trunk.
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Most dramatic is a mighty norasingh, a mythical lionlike beast with a rampant claw and snarling mouth, its scaly hide formed by close-packed green bananas. Most colourful is a garuda, the mythical bird that is a symbol of the Thai state; it is deep yellow and raspberry red, fashioned from dried banana slices and the carnation-like dok rak flower. And then there’s a great long banana-leaf naga serpent, and elephant’s heads flecked with banana slices, and enormous bright yellow cloth bananas, and bunches and bunches of real bananas, and much much more. Each of these floats is the dedicated work of a local district or institution, the transformation of humble organic working parts into imaginative displays of beauty. And for each float, a mercenary beauty is hired to be the crowning glory. Perched atop all this splendour, the beauty queens are somewhat outshone, wearing simple dark blue or black ankle-length, figure-hugging suits, Chitrlada style, with farmers’ straw hats (ngawp). They turn on the smile-power to attract attention, but, under the sun’s merciless rays, they tend to wilt faster than the flowers. Relief is manifest when they get the signal to clamber down to earth, as gracefully as possible, and go sit under an awning in front of the judges – ranks of district headmen. If you weren’t to look too closely, you might think Kamphaeng Phet was only about banana growing, rice fields and provincial folksiness. But in fact here once stood one of the great cities of old Siam, a fortified stronghold of the Sukhothai kingdom which established Thai nationhood in the 13th century. Located just north of the modern town, its laterite ramparts were crenellated in diamond shapes, which gained it the name of Kamphaeng Phet, which means Diamond Walls. With the ascendency of the Ayuthaya kingdom in the 15th century, the citadel that was Kamphaeng Phet went into decline, and it later suffered from Burmese invasions. Today, only evocative temple ruins and some rampart sections remain, calling out from the past through tall-treed parkland. The whole area is protected as a Historical Park, and consists of two parts: the old city within the ramparts, and the forest monastery area outside the walls. AUGUST 2014 | 41
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The ruins are comparable to Sukhothai’s on a smaller scale and have the distinct advantage of being little visited, with most people sticking to the old city area. Here, standing in line, the two largest temples, Wat Phra That (Temple of the Holy Relic) and Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), present a phalanx of tall laterite stupas, stripped of their stucco. Wat Phra Kaew was the royal temple, like its later namesake in Bangkok, and it once housed Thailand’s most sacred religious image, the Emerald Buddha. The temple boasts a serene trio of restored Buddha images, two sitting and one reclining, coated in stucco, with broad foreheads and square chins in the Kamphaeng Phet style. Things become wilder in the forested area called Aranyik, outside the old walls to the north. Here upon a low hill amid woodland, some forty former monasteries lie in the arms of nature. Aranyik’s major ruins have received much care and are cleared of trees. Upon the hilltop, Wat Chang Rop has a bold frieze of 68 elephant heads and forelegs around the base of its collapsed stupa. Lower down, Wat Phra Si Iriyabot is crowned by a sanctuary with four colossal Buddha images facing in the cardinal directions. Only one is complete, a great standing Buddha in the Sukhothai style, whose majestic serenity is the single most impressive sight of Kamphaeng Phet. These are the main attractions, and they stand close to a wide asphalt road that circles the forest park, used by the occasional tour bus. But turn aside, take a side road, step onto a gravel track, follow a narrow beaten path, and you enter hidden realms, passing through thick forest, coming out into a clearing where ruins lie, entering forest once again, spying remains in the trees. 42 | AUGUST 2014
The pillars of viharns, the bases of stupas, lie speckled by the sunlight passing through the forest canopy. Weathered Buddha images, worn away to their laterite cores, weirdly seem the works of modernist sculptors rather than ancient remains – some rounded and smooth like Henry Moores, others so ravaged that they resemble Giacomettis, spindly and pitted. When all Aranyik’s monasteries were populated and cared for, in the 15th and 16th centuries, this must have been a powerfully spiritual place. Today that spirituality is muted, after abandonment and the ravages of time, but nevertheless still speaks volumes. At the end of Buddhist Lent, which coincides with the Banana Festival, a serene religious rite occurs amongst the main temple ruins. Highlighted by the rising sun, a long file of saffron-clad monks treads softly and silently past Wat Phra That and Wat Phra Kaew, making its way towards tak bat offerings presented by provincial dignitaries. In this same park that night, many more monks gather for a great tot kathin ceremony, in which the people of the province present the holy men with new robes. At the harvest festival in the modern town that spreads southward from the ancient city, religious rites take place at the chief temple of Wat Bang. Its interior is decked with bunches of green bananas and sprigs of red banana flowers and worshippers bring more banana offerings to make merit. Mostly older women, they sit reverently attentive to the abbot’s intoning of the holy scriptures. At intervals, traditional musicians play percussive melodies on metal gongs, wooden xylophones and ox-hide drums. Kamphaeng Phet – Diamond Walls – may not sport any real diamonds, but it is a gem of Thai tradition and history. bangkok101.com
XXXXxxx Xxxx BY LUC CITRINOT
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LOST CAUSES An empty petrol tank sparks reflections on the big and small things of life in and around Auroville, South India’s idealistic alternative community. BY MARCO FERRARESE PICTURES BY KIT YENG CHAN
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t dawns on me only when my motorbike sputters for one last agonizing time: I’ve been running on empty for the past half hour. I have one last go at twisting the throttle, but the engine dies slowly like a poor sick thing, rather than rev and push further as I’d hoped. The headlight fades out together with the motor’s sound, and pitch black darkness falls on the road’s shoulder as if it were an uncomfortably tight, oiled up shrink-wrap.
“DAMN.” A few hundred meters ahead, the back light of Snehal’s bike dwindles on the black horizon, like a drunken firefly. I know that screaming his or my girlfriend’s names – she chose to ride on the more robust of the two motorbikes – would be pointless, because the only listeners left here are the pallid half moon sickle in the sky and the unknown creatures that are hooting in the gloom of the surrounding thickets. Standing arms akimbo in the centre of the tiny country road, my eyes slowly adjust to the feeble moonlight’s glow. The not so far away, coy sound of crashing waves flirts with my ears. That’s the beach we all wanted to see tonight; not if I’m stuck here alone, tough. Then, the colour of darkness brings her back to my mind: Purnima. “Not like that.” This small but well-built Tamil woman with opaque black skin shakes her head with a chastising stare. Not that I know much Tamil; but by helping Purnima in the daily preparation ritual of our
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communal meals, I developed the ability to translate her body language into a common tongue. From day one, she wanted me to learn how to roll and bake my own chapattis, “exactly like a real Indian woman does”. She would come close until I moved to one side, and would dunk her dark fingertip into the mix of oil and white flour piled on the side of the kitchen’s stone counter. Mixing it with circular strokes, she would create a small pond; then, cracking a piece of dough with her left hand, she’d manipulate it into a soft ball, dip it quickly into the mixture, and lay it on the table. After lesson one, she’d look back at me as If I were a naughty child. “Like this,” her eyes would say before she’d press the ball down, twisting it expertly with strokes of her thumb against the heel of her palm, until it transformed into a perfect, soft disk. “Now you do it”. But her look meant she knew I was a lost cause. “I see you are making progresses!” Every day Snehal would come in and look over my hunched shoulders, before reaching for some curry or masala powder in the kitchen’s cupboard. Snehal’s my host and a hero of permaculture and alternative living. He comes from the Northwestern Indian state of Gujarat but moved to Auroville with his father in search of a new path and ended up creating Sapney: an eco-village made of marvellous bamboo huts on the outskirts of a banana grove, where people from all around the world cross routes while volunteering at Snehal’s permaculture farm. The produce, besides
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being shared by host and guests during communal meals, is also sold fresh to tourist at Snehal’s Kofibar, a cosy wood-and-psychedelic-tiles café where one can lounge on a swinging hammock as he talks about the perma-revolution with other ‘alternatives’ from every part of the Global Village. They don’t come here for Snehal, of course, but for Auroville. This unique, self-sustaining-inthe-making city in the Viluppuram district of Pondicherry is based on the vision of philosopher, yogi and guru Sri Aurobindo and was founded in 1968 by his TurkishFrench wife, Mirra Alfassa, or “the Mother”. In Auroville, men and women of all stripe live together in harmony, above all creeds, politics and nationality, to realise an ideal of human unity based on skilled communal work. “It’s very hard to be an Aurovillian, almost impossible,” Snehal confesses on the day we first meet. “It can take up to a decade, or never happen. There are too many rules and trials, because they want to protect their community. I’m happy just being able to live and do my own thing here,” he concludes. Auroville’s mystic epicentre is the Matrimandir, a sanctuary built in the shape of a futuristic kitsch 1970s golf ball, which can be entered only after great preparation and complex arrangements. All around its park, a forest of banyan trees has grown for decades, intersecting roots and branches twisting boughs into cascades of magical and permanent wood. In a way, Snehal tries to squeeze out a living by “capitalizing” on all this. I met him through the Couchsurfing hospitality website, got invited to his community along with a group of international guests, and was put to work on my own organic food under Purnima’s military supervision. That said, I wasn’t even the worst baker: I’m thinking about the visiting Swedish guy who spent most of his time wrapped in an Indian sarong and bent over his laptop churning drum’n’bass mixes out of two flimsy but loud portable speakers. He 46 | AUGUST 2014
couldn’t even dip the dough base into the oil mixture properly, always breaking it up whenever he tried to turn it into a circle... in my mind’s eye I laughed hard at him… but never dared to look at the desperation written on Purnima’s face. Sapney’s images fade as a motorbike honks ahead, piercing the quiet of the dark night. The engine’s noise breaks the whisperings of shifting foliage, overriding the high-pitched symphony of thousands of chirping nocturnal insects. The bike’s circular headlight becomes wider and wider, until it transforms into a benevolent white orbit that finally re-illuminates my environs. “Did you run out of gas?” Snehal’s amused voice reassures me that I won’t be spending the rest of the night at the side of the road. “Well, my bike has no fuel indicator on the dashboard… I forgot to calculate the kilometres…” “Not a problem; I have some spare petrol back at Sapney. You can fill the rest of the tank in town tomorrow,” he says, before telling me to get back on my bike, put it in neutral, and keep my balance. “I will push you from behind with my foot. Watch out for the potholes,” he cautions. His engine roars and we are moving again, the blade of his headlight cutting a shaft of illumination on road ahead of us, enough anyway to see the pavement and dodge the intermittent cracks, holes and ruts. To my right the ocean hums beyond a line of bloated banyan trees. Now that the wind’s blowing in my face again, and with Snehal’s foot firmly planted over my back wheel, I feel I don’t need a special pass to the Matrimandir to reach tonight’s deepest level of concentration. I have my own mantra going… for Shiva’s sake watch the road, and tomorrow Purnima will see how a white man can roll the perfect chapatti. bangkok101.com
The Fine Art of Thai Cuisne Ruen Urai, “the House of Gold,” combines fine Thai culinary art with an elegant ambience. Inspired by Thailand’s diverse regions, cultures and lifestyles, our gastronomic creations vary from Royal Thai cuisine to refined home-cooking. Discover the secret oasis of Ruen Urai. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 Fax. (66) 2 266 8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com
a r bangkok101.com
Seasonal Fluidity World-renowned Chinese contemporary artist Lu Jun brings his new oeuvre to La Lanta Fine Art (254/14, Soi 31 Sukhumvit Rd) for his third solo exhibition in Bangkok. “A Chant of Seasons”, which runs from August 16 – September 18, showcases his talent through ‘digital ink and wash’ photographic techniques. A recipient of the 2009 Florence Biennale Gold Prize in Photography, Lu Jun is inspired by one of China’s most highly regarded art forms, traditional landscape painting. However, he incorporates a contemporary spin on the form’s concepts with his mixed-media artwork and is particularly adept at capturing the fluid, unguided movement of ink in water with a camera. Once the image is to his liking, he digitally reconstructs it to create a brand-new, unique form. Lu Lun’s expertise, patience and technique shows vividly in his work and has earned him recognition in numerous international art magazines including Art Manager, Chinese Photography, Art Gallery, and Britain’s Genius List of 100 Top International Artists.
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exhibitions
#IMWTK
338 OIDA Gallery [MAP 8/L17] 4F Pongamorn Bldg, 1028/5 Rama IV Rd | 090-198-8749 Thu-Sun 1-5pm | oidaartbangkok.com | MRT Lumpini
Until Aug 31 In the late nineties, artist-curator Chitti Kasemkitvatana was involved with one of Bangkok’s most influential independent art spaces in About Café/Studio. After a period in the monkhood, Chitti returns to the art scene with an exhibition featuring new pieces reinterpreting earlier works and associated research materials that were collected and recorded as photographs, notes and memories. Participating in Galleries Night.
The Moonshine Hunter
Toot Yung Art Centre [MAP 3/U9] 12/6 Soi 2, Soi 63 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-714-3766 Tue-Sun 11am-8pm | tootyunggallery.com | BTS Ekamai
Until Aug 12 In partnership with Thaillywood Artist Residency, multidisciplined artist Montri Toemsombat has previously threaded wearable art from organic and manufactured materials such as rice and barbed wire. In his Chonburi residency, he reconstitutes patterned folk fabrics as a surface for painting on, so as to deliberate on the balance between cultures, the local and global, rural and urban, East and West. Participating in Galleries Night with a special artist performance.
Here are my teeth: Black with Stars
Kathmandu Photo Gallery [MAP 5/E6] 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 02-234-6700 Tue-Sun 11am-7pm | kathmandu-bkk.com | BTS Chong Nonsi
Until Aug 31 Having previously exhibited at Artery in 2012, American artist Elizabeth Preger returns with a series of close up images of body parts that remind us of human fallibility and mortality. Besides depictions of flesh and hair, natural forms such as seashells and leaves also enforce themes of decomposition and aging. Participating in Galleries Night.
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exhibitions
A RT & C u lt u r e
Walking on a Tightrope
Tang Contemporary Art [MAP 5/D5] F5, Silom Galleria, 919/3 Soi 19 Silom Rd. | 02-630-1114 Mon-Sat 11am–7pm | tangcontemporary.com | BTS Surasak
Until Aug 9 (Opens Jul 9 at 6pm) As ASEAN heads towards next year’s commencement of an integrated economic community, artists Jessada Tangtrakulwong and Suebsang Sangwachirapiban look beyond governmental hype to explore the deeper implications and possible consequences of such cooperation, both upon individuals and the separate nations within the region.
Plant, Delicacy, Delight
Ardel gallery of modren art 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd. | 02-422-2092 Tue-Sat 10:30am- 7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm | ardelgallery.com
Aug 14 - Sep 21 The duel exhibition by Boonmee Sangkhum and Vipabhon Nilubon, “Plant, Delicacy, and Delight”, perfectly displays the harmony of two artistic techniques coming together in one beautiful, balanced composition. While Sangkhum uses a dark background of Mezzotint print to reveal the subtle beauty of seeds, Nilubon uses watercolour print mixes to create remarkable drawings and watercolour paintings.
Thai Charisma: Heritage + Creative Power BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) [MAP 4/B4] 939 Rama I Rd | 02-214-6630-1 Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | bacc.or.th | BTS National Stadium
Aug 14 - Nov 2 Co-organized by the Fine Arts Department, the Office of Contemporary Art and Culture, the Ministry of Culture, and the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, this exhibition aims to showcase contemporary works by Thai artists and artisans. The exhibition encourages observers to view and experience the links between heritage and creative power.
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exhibitions
Kitikun Mankit
Colouring Outside the Lines The upcoming summer exhibition at the Adler Subhashok Gallery is a chance for seven local artists to express their unique creativity. KAT GURLEY talks inspiration and fairy tales with two of the participants.
Palut Marod
exhibitions
W
ith the theme of “No Borders” to guide them, the artists taking part in Adler Subhashok Gallery’s summer exhibition have been encouraged to extend themselves let their creative juices flow. The show, which offers local art lovers the chance to see various pieces before they are shipped off to international destinations such as Singapore and Indonesia, is important to artists Palut Marod and Kitikun Mankit, because it represents a taster of works to come. The gallery, which recently forged a partnership with the French Adler gallery, relocated a mere two months ago to its hip new locale on mid-Sukhumvit. The fresh, modern look of the new space gives it the feel of an up and comer in the art world. The works being showcased in the summer exhibition definitely live up to the no boundaries theme. With pieces ranging from humorous spins on the current political situation to intriguing nudes of a famous transsexual, it makes for an eye-popping collection. The art of Marod is striking, littered with the recurring theme of women, from whom he draws inspiration. A particular painting of his stands out in the collection. Absolutely chilling and yet captivating, it depicts a pale woman with demonic eyes peering at the viewer from behind an ominous, green mass. “Many men paint women with flowers or other beautiful things. I hide a woman’s face with something different, something not so beautiful. I want to show that women have power, much more power than they used to. They are not just silent, pretty things to look at. There is much more behind the mask,” explains Marod. He indicates another of his paintings in which a woman’s face is split by a vibrant fractal design featuring the colours of the Thai flag. “I wanted to include the nation’s flag to show my patriotism. A woman is part of the design because I love women, and I love my country. I think that when things are not so good in a country, that’s when the people should become more patriotic and positive, not angry,” he says. It is refreshing to look at art that focuses on the power of women, and the love for one’s native country in its entirety; the good, the bad, and the ugly. The combination is stunning and meaningful. Artist Mankit, quite simply, flourishes without boundaries. His quirky art is full of elements which baffle, intrigue and most certainly enthrall the beholder. The summer exhibition bangkok101.com
A RT & C u lt u r e
“I want to show that women have power, much more power than they used to. They are not just silent, pretty things to look at” Palut Marod is an opportunity for him to give gallery visitors a preview of other works in the pipeline, particularly a series of paintings themed around the re-imagined fairy tales of Aesop’s Fables. A large painting of his draws the eye. It features floating, detached fox heads, while Cupids with the faces of cats dip and dive through the painting and beheaded rats agitatedly shuffle their raven wings. The entire scene has a heightened sense of action and cautious whimsy. “The Aesop series, for me, shows a different twist on fairy tales, and how, when we’re young we’re innocent and believe everything in them. When we grow up, the way we view a fairy tale changes, and we realize that the morals at the end don’t always hold true. I want people to look at my paintings and go home still piecing them together, realizing things about them that they didn’t necessarily get on first viewing,” he says. Though Mankit and Marod have different artistic inspirations, they share one common desire; that Thais take more of an interest in local art happenings and exhibitions so that home-grown talent is supported and the local art world can continue to grow. Hopefully the upcoming Adler Subhashok Gallery exhibition will be another positive step towards that goal.
SUMMER SHOW JULY 5 – SEPTEMBER 30 Adler Subhashok Gallery
[MAP 3/N8]
Adler Subhashok Gallery, 160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 39 | 02-662-0299 sacbangkok.com | Tru-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6.30pm
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cheat notes
thai Taxi Talismans
A RT & C u lt u r e
Dale Konstanz | B 796
THAILAND AND WORLD WAR II Direk Jayanama | B995
tHE GENTLEMEN IN THE PARLOUR
Somerset Maugham | B430
A Bangkok taxi ride is more than just a trip from A to B – it’s also a journey through the byways of Thai belief. Most drivers here decorate their cabs with a hotchpotch of talismans, sacred icons, fresh flowers and pop culture bits and bobs. Sometimes it’s mere beautification, but usually it’s an expression of the driver’s philosophy – a mini altar to the Gods, monks, celestials and spirits that he or she worships. Wealth and safe passage for the car, the driver, and you, the passenger, are just some of the good fortune it is believed they bring. This coffee table book – four years in the making, as colourful as the cabs it’s about – is the insider’s guide, explaining exactly what that swaying string of beads or fat plastic monk grinning at you from the dashboard means to the driver. Split neatly into themed chapters, it’s a fun, fascinating ride.
Though its role was peripheral, and it never wanted to get involved, having declared a position of neutrality early on, Thailand didn’t emerge unscathed from World War II. Not only did it have to cede some of its sovereignty to the Japanese, after the country's warships landed at southern beaches here on December 8, 1941, its image was also tainted by its declaration of war against the Allied powers. Why Thailand did so and the answers to many, many more wartime geopolitical questions (including why it tried to join the Axis powers) are buried deep within these detailed memoirs by then Thai Foreign Minister, Direk Jayanama. Written in 1966, the late master diplomat's diary-based account also spans his involvement in the underground Free Thai Movement and the post-war years, most intriguingly Thailand’s hard-won entry to the United Nations.
Although best known for his novels and plays, Somerset Maugham is on fine travel writer form in this account of his 1923 trip through Burma, Siam and Cambodia by steamboat, train, car and horse-cart. Opting to tell human interest stories rather than rave about the scenery, along the way he meets a hotchpotch of Eastern characters – from colonialist misfits to Burmese servants – and also finds time to ponder the nature of travel, Buddhism and metaphysics. Using elegant, redolent prose, he also compares Bangkok’s canals to London’s Oxford Street, gushes over Wat Suthat temple, pens a Siamese fairytale, and even lets us in on his famous stay at The Oriental Hotel, which is sullied somewhat by a nasty bout of malaria and the manageress’s fear of him dying in one of her rooms. Pour yourself a gin fizz and enjoy.
MEKHONG FULL MOON PARTY Jira Milagool | 2002 Maligool’s debut film uses a real-life phenomenon – fireballs rising from the Mekhong – to sketch out a loving portrait of the Northeast Isaan region of Thailand. Scientists, TV crews, and tourists have invaded Ponpisai, seeking the source of the fireballs, which some attribute to methane gas, others to human hoax, and still others to the mythical Naga that lives in the river. The film balances its attention to detail – characters who are quirky but not caricatured, exquisitely composed shots of the region’s lush greenery and river mists – with big questions about science and religion, the citycountry divide, the hopes and hazards of globalisation and tourism. bangkok101.com
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art & culture photofeature
A HOME FOR
HISTORY Four years in the making, a book and photographic exhibition by Spanish-born photographer XAVIER COMAS lifts the ancient roof of a storied Narathiwat building to glimpse the checkered historical narrative of Thailand’s southern region
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C
atalan photographer Xavier Comas, a fine arts graduate of the University of Barcelona, says he relies on chance to create his works, using photography accompanied with writing to illustrate the bonds he builds with people and places. His images have been published and exhibited in Europe and Asia, and have featured in prominent magazines throughout the world. In order to create his most notable work to date, Comas immersed himself in Thailand’s troubled southern provinces for over a year. The resulting black and white photographs form the content of his first book, ‘The House of the Raja – Splendour and Desolation in Thailand’s Deep South’. The collection of images, taken in and around the home of one of the last Malay Muslim rulers of
the old Kingdom of Patani, is sometimes unsettling, often haunting and always thought-provoking. Of the project Comas says, “When I first visited Thailand s Deep South, I knew nothing about its history. I wandered aimlessly, always trying to see beyond the ongoing conflict, until I came across this mysterious house that seemed, somehow, more than just a building. This was a sanctuary of light and shadow; a poignant reminder of the solitude and memories carved in the region s divided soul, trapped in limbo, yearning for its forgotten splendour, held captive by its desolation. The house urged me to look into the past. I would have never imagined that after crossing its threshold, and as the outside world closed behind me, it would draw me into the depths of my consciousness.”
‘The House of the Raja – Splendour and Desolation in Thailand’s Deep South’ is showcased at a photo exhibition at Eat Me Restaurant, Soi Phipat 2, Convent Road, running from 5th August to 27th September, 2014. Call 0-2238-0913 for details. 59 | xxx 2013
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Spicy and sour soup, drumstick seeds,river prawn & top with crispy fish siam wisdom p68
AROy CULINARY WORLDS COMBINE AT OKURA PRESTIGE
Two top chefs at The Okura Prestige Bangkok (Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Road; 02-687-9000) are merging their culinary styles and skills to present an exclusive menu that combines the contrasting flavours produced by kitchens in Japan and in the West. Yamazato restaurant master chef Shigeru Hagiwara and chef de cuisine Henry Jordan present their six course ‘Living Kitchen’ dinner menu on September 5-6 from 6pm – 10:30pm at Elements restaurant, located at the hotel’s 25th floor. The special menu, plus amusebouche and petite fours, is priced at B3,800++ per person.
BO.LAN’S NEW HOME
Popular Thai eatery Bo.lan (02-260-2962) has re-opened after moving to a new location on Sukhumvit Soi 53. The restaurant, run by husband and wife chef duo Dylan Jones and Bo Songvisava was recently ranked 28th on San Pellegrino and Aqua Panna’s list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
NEW ZEALAND CALLING
A delectable evening is in store for Bangkok’s gourmands as award-winning celebrity chef Nick Honeyman, executive chef of Sofitel Auckland Viaduct Harbour, puts on a one-night gastronomic dinner to showcase his culinary skills at Park Society (29th floor of Sofitel So Bangkok; 2 North Sathorn Rd; 02-6240000). The 5-course specialty menu on Friday 8th August will be accompanied by Craggy Range wine from New Zealand. Priced at B3,500++ per person, advance reservations are highly recommended.
LUNAR LOVELIES
Shang Palace at Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok (89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, Charoen Krung Rd) celebrates the upcoming Mid-Autumn Festival with its premium Mooncake collections, Double Happiness Set, Mini Cream Custard Mooncake Set, Blissful Set and Wealth of Fortune Set in a special limited edition gift box. Available until 8 September. For orders and further information, contact the Shang Palace ‘mooncake hotline’ on 02-206-8605.
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meal deals MIDDLE EASTern FAVOURITES EXCLUSIVELY AT BRASSERIE EUROPA SIAM KEMPINSKI HOTEL BANGKOK 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., Pathumwan | 02-162-9000 | kempinskibangkok.com Guest chef Sudqi Naddaf from Kempinski Hotel Mall, Dubai is excited to bring an authentic tastes of Arabic cuisine with a modern twist to Bangkok. From August 8-24, white fish in clay pot, Tabouleh (Arabic salad), Hummus (chickpea dip) and other delectable menu items are served with warm homemade pita bread in an all-you-can-eat style.
FRESH SEAFOOD SERVED AT BAI YUN BANYAN TREE BANGKOK 21/100 South Sathon Rd. | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com Indulge in the freshness of seafood delicacies at Banyan Tree Bangkok throughout August as the culinary team at Bai Yun restaurant create a range of distinctive menus using the finest fresh ingredients ranging from sea cucumber and abalone to hairy crab. Available from 11am–2.30pm for lunch and 6pm–10.30pm for dinner. A private room for up to 12 persons is also available.
JAPANESE HOT POT AT THE TERRACE@72 RAMADA PLAZA BANGKOK MENAM RIVERSIDE 2074 Charoenkrung Rd. | 02-688-1000 | ramadaplazamenamriverside.com Diners are invited to keep warm in this rainy month of August with a Japanese Hot Pot promotion. Pick your favourite ingredients to boil in a traditional clay pot, believed by the Japanese to bring out the best of flavours. The promotion is available daily as part of the International buffet dinner at B900++ on Sunday-Thursday and B1200++ on Friday and Saturday.
BEER AND BURGER COMBOS AT BEERVAULT FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON BANGKOK 4 Sukhumvit 15 | 02-309-3000 | fourpointsbangkoksukhumvit.com From this month onwards at BeerVault, a variety of burgers will be served along with a range of international and local beers as this cool bar launches a ‘Beer and Burger Combos’ (B400) which allows drinkers to match their favourite drinks with a choice of burgers including Cajun chicken burger, salmon burger, breaded pork burger or beef and bacon burger.
CHAROLAIS BEEF AT HAMILTON’S STEAK HOUSE DUSIT THANI BANGKOK 946 Rama IV Road | 02-200-9000 | dusit.com Mouth-watering Charolais beef is back on the menu at Hamilton’s Steak House. The enticing selections, featuring Charolais beef rib-eye steak and Charolais beef tenderloin, are sure to satisfy even the heartiest meat craving. The promotion is available until August 31 for lunch and dinner and prices start from B1700 per dish.
KAISEKI SET AT YTSB VIE HOTEL 117/39-40 Phaya Thai Rd. | 02-309-3939 | viehotelbangkok.com YTSB at Vie Hotel has launched five new Kaiseki lunch sets served from 11.30am-2.30pm. The spectacular sets include a salmon set, Hamachi set, Sakana Kama set, Sakana Don set and the signature YTSB sushi set, all delicately prepared from the finest ingredients by an experienced culinary team. Each set is priced at B599++.
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review
Smith - A spirit of invention When Smith opened its doors last year, in a refurbished warehouse on Sukhumvit Soi 49, the meat-heavy menu concept didn’t necessarily seem to be an easy fit with Bangkok’s cosmopolitan dining scene. However, following some tweaks the restaurant seems to be growing into self, deploying some inspired modern touches to make the most of its ‘nose-to-tail’ ethos. Today it is producing dishes both familiar and yet slightly different at the same time. This is, after all, founding chef Ian Kittichai’s stock in trade. The space has an unmistakable industrial-chic feel with its polished concrete floors and wrought iron details. It’s the aesthetic in vogue in Bangkok’s restaurant scene but Smith manages to add a certain warmth, thanks in part to wood trim and a prominent, well-stocked bar in one corner. It’s a big space that can echo slightly when not busy but this has the happy knack of making it feel upscale rather than uninviting. It all boils down to the food, though, and it’s here that a straightforward-sounding concept is elevated by curious details and smooth execution. Take, for example, the fried egg salad (B180), the garden greens offset by traces of apple and pistachio. Or the steamed black mussels (B390), served with saffron, caramelised onion, crème fraiche, chilli and butter. It is unexpected combinations like these that add an extra dimension to Smith’s menu. As the courses move up in size, the emphasis on meat becomes more pronounced, but it’s still married skillfully to a bangkok101.com
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spirit of invention. The steak tartare (B250) comes seasoned with crispy capers and garden herbs, creating an offset to the richness of the beef. More straightforward but no less satisfying is the half pan of mixed sausages (B210) with warm coleslaw. Among the mains, the pork belly (B350) is one of the real stand-outs, glazed in verjus and served with pickled stone fruit, spicy lentils, mint and coriander. If you’re dining with a group of rib fans, it’s pretty hard to ignore the rack of lamb (B2350 serving three to four), rubbed in coffee spices and served with celeriac puree. The Black Label burger (B450) is also a winner, Australian Wagyu sandwiched in a squid ink brioche with Gouda and mustard, served with a helping of rosemary-tinged fries. By the end of a visit, it’s impossible to dispute that Smith delivers on its pitch with rare panache.
Smith
[MAP 3/Q10]
1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 02-261-0515 smith-restaurant.com | Tues-Sat 5pm-midnight, Sun 11am-midnight
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review
Siam Wisdom - A glorious, illuminating meal Exploring Thai food on its own terms is one of the great joys of living in Bangkok. This bold, vibrant cuisine is also striking in its adaptability. It’s possible, for example, to develop a degree of familiarity with Thai flavours exclusively through the prism of street food, of portions dished out for B100 or less. Where it gets interesting for foodies, though, is when these flavours can be traced up the pecking order and identified in top-drawer restaurants, where a different level of produce and technique are brought to bear. It’s for these reasons that the recently opened Siam Wisdom will appeal to anyone interested in developing a greater appreciation of Thai food because flavours are expertly refined, separated more elegantly and delivered with brio. Here Chef Chumpol Jangprai gives a crash course in deliciousness without compromising on authenticity. The menu is split into thirds – Ancient, Classical and Innovative. Each category has a set menu that goes for B1800 at dinner time. The challenge, then, is choosing which category to explore because each has its own distinctive highlights. On the Ancient set menu, which taps into the rarified traditions of palace cuisine, start with crispy pancakes with crab meat and kaffir lime leaves before savoring the grilled marinated sea bass with herbs in banana leaves. And the curry, served with a choice of beef or pork, gives 68 | AUGUST 2014
of the unforgettable perfume of cassia flowers. The Classical menu, which is essentially Chompul’s excellent take on contemporary Thai food, throws up a fresh pomelo salad with prawns, crispy shallots and sweet tamarind sauce. It is one of the real stand-out dishes. That said, there’s also an exceptional beef massaman featuring the usual combination of coconut milk, onion and baby potatoes. However, what sets Chompul’s version apart is that it retains an unusually high-heat spice. It’s gorgeous. On the Innovative menu, where convention gets well and truly tweaked, the som tum takes young muskmelon salad and pairs it with organic caviar from the Royal Project. Following that, try the crab meat with ant eggs and boiled duck eggs with a mangosteen sauce before finishing off with the spicy, sour river prawns and crispy fish soup seasoned with drumstick seeds. Ultimately, as the name suggests, Siam Wisdom delivers the best kind of culinary education.
Siam Wisdom
[MAP 3/K7]
66 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02-260-7811 siamwisdomcuisine.com | Noon-2.30pm, 8pm-10.30pm
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review
Saigon Recipe - Home-cooked Vietnamese banquet As much as any cuisine on offer in Bangkok – and, let’s face it, you can find pretty much whatever you want in this city – Vietnamese restaurants reward closer inspection. Generally, they tend to eschew the grand facades and ostentatious interiors. This more low-key approach, however, should not lower expectations of the food – rather, it reinforces the notion that the best food is produced in the home. So it is with Saigon Recipe, which resembles a refurbished shophouse, located opposite Grease nightclub on Sukhumvit Soi 49. If Thai food is defined by the boldness of its flavours and Japanese by its elegance, then Vietnamese food is all about freshness – signposted by vivid colours and heightened by herbal perfumes and aftertastes. Begin here with the steamed rice crepes filled with seasoned ground pork, minced shrimp and wood ear mushroom (B220). This is a staple of most Vietnamese menus and, as ever, it’s a challenge to eat without the contents spilling out of either side of the crepe. Among the starters, other highlights include the BBQ pork meatballs served with rice papers and herbs (B240) and the lettuce rolls with shrimp, pork and rice noodles served with peanuts sauce (B120). The meatballs may not be as obviously Vietnamese as some of the dishes – or, at least, it’s not what Westerners associate with Vietnamese cuisine – but they’ve got a delicious punch, 70 | AUGUST 2014
while the lettuce rolls add a fantastic crunch to the rich pork flavours and tangy peanut offset. The salads are possibly the most exciting part of Saigon Recipe’s menu. Try the steamed chicken salad with banana flower (B240). In a well-designed dish, flavours reveal themselves in a prescribed order, and here, the late arrival of the banana flower is exquisite, a surprising note at the very end of a mouthful guaranteed to lure you back for a second go. The pomelo salad with shrimp and pork (B240) is also excellent – pomelo may be under-used but at Saigon Recipe it is incorporated to brilliant effect, retaining both the initial burst of citrus and a lingering, sharp undertone. Heavier fare includes the rice noodles topped with BBQ pork and fried spring rolls with fresh herbs and vegetables (B200). Along with the stir-fried beef on fresh rice vermicelli with peanuts and homemade special sauce (B220), these are serious portions, perfect for sharing. After all that, you might need a seriously strong Vietnamese black coffee (B70) to dispel the urge to take a post-prandial nap.
Saigon Recipe [map 3/P7] 46/5 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 02-662-6311 saigon-recipe.com | 11am-3pm, 5am-10pm
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SanPellegrino recommends
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RANG MAHAL - Indian Fine Dining Perched on the 26th floor of Rembrandt Hotel, Rang Mahal offers diners fine northern Indian cuisine based on recipes that delighted the taste buds of the Mughal rulers of old. The setting is equally regal, with soaring ceilings, panoramic city views and an elegance that is all too uncommon in many Indian restaurants. Rang Mahal means ‘palace of colours’ and there is definitely a courtly air about the restaurant, down to the traditional Indian band whose lilting music fills the air. Equally, while Indian cuisine routinely delivers powerful flavours, the refined, almost delicate food served at Rang Mahal is a rarity. Among the appetisers, the papri chaat (B175) and Punjabi samosa (B190) are relatively straightforward but the well judged lightness and the fact the doughiness is not overdone mean these bite-sized dishes whet the appetite. Proceedings go up a notch when the main course dishes come out. The jheenga kadhai, prawns in a tomato and onion sauce (B550), is rich and perfectly balanced with
Indian spices, while the tandoori murgh (B425 for half, B730 for whole) combines chicken and yoghurt for an extra kick. The house specialty, though, is the raan-e-khyber (B950 for half, B1595 for whole) – a leg of lamb marinated in rum, herbs and spices before being barbecued over charcoal. It’s an impressive dish, rustic in appearance but perfectly executed, the meet sweet and smokey at the same time. The desserts here are also worth waiting for. The gulab jamun (B195) is a cream cheese dumpling flavoured with cardamom, saffron and almonds – it sounds like an unusual combination but the blending of savoury and sweet is a winning formula. The kulfi falooda (B225) is saffron-flavoured ice cream – but even then it is a pleasant eye-opening experience.
RANG MAHAL [MAP 3/K11] 26F Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 0-2262-7100 Rembrandt.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm
TO ENHANCE GREAT FOODS CHOOSE THE FINE DINING WATERS ACQUA PANNA AND S. PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. Sanpellegrino Asia| sanpellegrino@sanpellegrino.com.sg Distributed by Vanichwathana (Bangkok) Co Ltd. Thailand | Tel. +66 22215354
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review
The Great Kabab Factory - Kababs like you’ve never tasted before The Great Kabab Factory at Majestic Grande Hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 2 is a non-traditional Indian restaurant built around memorable service and menu offerings that are entirely different in look and taste profile from the ubiquitous Middle-Eastern kababs. TGKF provides guests a unique dining environment akin to being in a virtual food factory – an open kitchen, cutlery resembling tools and metal serving dishes all contribute to the ‘chic industrial atmosphere’. Here, by virtue of preparation, there are various kinds of kabab; Tikkas are boneless and cooked in a tandoor oven; Shami kababs are deep-fried patties; Seekh kababs are skewered meats and vegetables; while Bharwan kababs are stuffed kababs. In fact, the restaurant boasts an extensive inventory of more than 450 kinds of kabab. But don’t worry, these are rotated through six different vegetarian and non-vegetarian offerings in an extended three-course set menu that changes daily (non-vegetarian B1,100 per person, vegetarian B1,000). Unlimited portions of each item mean that it is possible to over-indulge from the outset, so be sure to leave room for what follows. The culinary journey begins with one of TGKF’s signature offerings, Galouti kabab. A minced lamb patty flavoured with a spice mix that remains a closely-guarded TGKF secret. It was said to have been invented by the chef of an aging 14th century Mughal king who had lost his teeth but not his passion for meat dishes. Light and piquant, as its sub72 | AUGUST 2014
continental name suggests, it is ‘melt-in-the-mouth’ good. The other two stand-out starters are Macchi Hydrabadi, a zesty garam masala flavoured deep-fried fish kabab, and Murgh Malai Tikka, a cream and cheese flavoured bones chicken kabab. A nice touch this; as you wait for the main course, your waiter will ask if you are comfortable with the speed of service, something that is inquired of all patrons – the experienced kitchen and serving staff, all of whom hail from India, being happy to speed up or slow down delivery according to your preference. The main course highlight at TGKF is a wonderfully tender serving of Butter Chicken prepared with a rich Indian cashu paste. It is beautifully off-set by a light yellow lentil Dal Lahsooni, which is tempered with red chilli and garlic. Also served is Gosht Biriyani, long-grain rice cooked with lamb and assorted spices, and Palak Paneer, a vibrant dish of cottage cheese cooked with spinach. If you have room, the Desserts of the Day revolve around traditional Gulab Jamun, deep-fired condensed milk dumplings soaked in sugar syrup, and Jafrani Firni, which is crushed rice cooked with saffron-flavoured milk..
The Great Kabab Factory
[Map 3]
Majestic Grande Hotel, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 2 | 02-262-2999 thegreatkakabfactory.com/Bangkok | 6pm-11pm
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review
FOOD & DRIN K
Kongju - A Korean education In the marketplace of Asian cuisines, Korean food is in a tight spot. Given its location, sandwiched between the culinary behemoths of China and Japan, it would not be unreasonable to expect a degree of assimilation. Slightly against the odds, though, the best Korean food stakes out its own distinct ground, to the point where any echoes of the neighbouring cuisines are intriguing talking points, rather than similarities that hint at fusion. Certainly, Kongju at Pathumwan Princess proudly brandishes its rigorous adherence to authenticity. The decor and the materials of the interior – the wood paneling, the floral motifs – all hint at the refined elegance common to Asian design, while retaining an essentially Korean quality. It’s worth checking out the cocktail menu – Kongju has a long list of international staples (B280), while their cocktail blend of pineapple, ginger and rose blossom is a startlingly refreshing combination. The starters offer a more vivid demonstration of how Korean food distinguishes itself – using recurring flavours of soy, bean paste and fermented chillis alongside salt, garlic and ginger. As ever though, food and history walk hand in hand and the presence of some seasonings, black pepper, for example, can be traced back to the Mongol invasion of the 13th century. bangkok101.com
Among the specialties is ho bak kal bee tchim (B330), a stew of beef or pork ribs in pumpkin. Equally, the gogi pyene chae (B390), beef or pork rolled up with green vegetables are ideal for bite-sized sharing. The dam kang jeong (B340) is fried chicken with garlic and fried chilli – another dish with discernible Chinese notes, although the Korean offering is crispier and with less oil. No visit to a Korean restaurant would be complete, though, without going for the DIY barbecue; a circular grill is revealed in the centre of the table before assorted meats and seafood come flooding out, already marinated and seasoned. All that’s left is for diners to start it sizzling away. The options here are vast, but a well-rounded selection includes the yeon-o bulgogi (B500), which is sliced Norwegian salmon and the yang yogi guyi (B820), or New Zealand lamb chops. If you’re with a big, hungry group, add the doe gee kal bee (B330), or pork spare ribs, and the classic bulgogi (B390), sliced beef. Overall, Kongju is a thrilling, illuminating experience that will leave diners with a deeper appreciation of a cuisine that deserves greater exposure.
Kongju [MAP 4/B6] Pathumwan Princess Hotel 444 MBK Center, Phayathai Rd 02-216-3700 | 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm | pprincess.com
AUGUST 2014 | 73
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review
Rasa Khas - Authentic Indonesian On the west side of one Asoke’s busiest foodie junctions stands Rasa Khas, one of the city’s few Indonesian restaurants. It has an inviting exterior, a traditional Thai house with a spacious garden dining area. More importantly, Rasa Khas offers Bangkok’s diners the chance to get to grips with Indonesian cuisine, which has somehow slipped through the cracks of the capital’s otherwise all-encompassing culinary spectrum. The menu is divided between traditional, homecooked Indonesian comfort food and snappier, punchier street food staples straight from the heart of Jakarta. In terms of seasoning, Indonesian cuisine has plenty in common with Thai food – turmeric, tamarind, galangal and lemongrass are all widely used – but they’re combined for a vastly different effect. Indonesian is a heavier, doughier cuisine; nuttier with less citrus, chillis are deployed to create a slow heat rather than an explosion in the first mouthful. Take, for example, that great cross-cultural barometer, the dumpling. In Indonesian, siomay (B160) are mackerel dumplings with steamed vegetables, tofu and potato with peanut and Indonesian soy sauce. Frankly, they’re more like a Polish pierogi than any Asian equivalent, all mixed together in a saucy stew. The satay offerings are likely to be more familiar – the sate ayam (B160), for example, constitutes marinated 74 | A U G U S T 2 0 1 4
sliced chicken served with peanut sauce and chilli dips, while the sate kambing (B160) is heavily seasoned mutton. They’re among Rasa Khas’s most attractively presented dishes, bursting with colour. And, at the risk of sounding parsimonious, they’re outstanding value, as is most of the fare at Rasa Khas. The ketoprak (B120) may be a mystery to anyone who hasn’t visited Indonesia – it’s a street food salad made with tofu, mihun and lontang (rice, steamed in a banana leaf). But for diners less willing to experiment, the beef rendang is excellent, the meat served in sumptuous casserole pieces that release their juicy goodness when you take a bite. The mie goreng ayam (B140) is perhaps even more quintessentially Indonesian, piles of fried noodles that kick impetuously with black pepper. And wash it all down with some unsweetened iced tea (B40). Full of flavour and great value, Rasa Khas has all the makings of a neighborhood cult favourite, a little-known gem for those in the know. So give the laab moo a rest and go and investigate Indonesian cuisine. You won’t regret it.
Rasa Khas
[MAP 3/J8]
86/2 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 02-108-5437 rasakhas.com | Tues-Sun 11am-11pm
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review
Moon Glass - A touch of Thong Lor style The backstreets of Thong Lor are inundated with little alcoves concealing bars and restaurants; one leafy facade gives way to Moon Glass, an indoor-outdoor restaurant and bar with a modern European menu and the odd Thai twist thrown in. It’s a slick, modern interior – the ubiquitous dark woods and metals offset by a classy, custom-built bar and baroque light fixtures. Speaking of the bar, Thai-run restaurants can sometimes be guilty of cutting corners on the cocktails. The culture of mixing drinks is relatively new to Thailand and has been driven mostly by expats – it’s all too common for Thai restaurateurs to pay lip service to this trend with a few sugary, brightly coloured monstrosities without thinking about balance and variety. Moon Glass, fortunately, doesn’t fall into this category. Clearly, a great deal of thought has gone into the cocktail design – if anything, some of the drinks try to pack in one too many ingredients. There are some stand-out signatures (all B280); the Harvest Moon is a refreshing combination of pear vodka, gin, elderflower and apple juice, while the Flip Man Walking offers a tart variation on the Rusty Nail, blending Johnnie Walker Gold, Drambuie and Campari and roasted coffee beans. The Captain John mixes gin, dark rum, lime and elderflower, garnished with a skewer of lychee, chilli and cucumber. All very promising. bangkok101.com
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And the food doesn’t suffer by comparison. The Tom Yum Khung Caesar Salad (B290) takes a straightforward starter and adds hints of chilli and Thai flavours, while the foie gras with pomegranate and passion fruit sauce (B590) echoes the fashionable use of citrus flavours and lends the dish an interesting offset of flavors. The pan-seared Hokkaido scallops with white truffle oil sauce (B390) make a gorgeous appetiser, pairing the velvety seafood texture with rich, flavourful tastes. The impressive produce is again on show in the black ink tagliatelle with seafood (B350), a mixed bag of mussels and shrimp heightened beautifully by the slightly tangy sauce. Moving on to the mains, the duck confit (B490) comes with red wine sauce, caramelised onion and truffle risotto. The duck itself is moist and artfully presented but again it is the sauce that carries the day, reinforcing the notion that while the owner-chef at Moon Glass certainly knows his produce, it’s his command of flavours that makes his menu work so well.
Moon Glass [MAP3/Q9] 31 Sukhumvit Soi 53 | 02-259-8531 moonglassbangkok.com | 5pm-midnight
AUGUST 2014 | 75
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in the kitchen
GAGGAN ANAND talks to Howard Richardson
When Gaggan Anand opened his progressive Indian restaurant Gaggan in 2010 he told me his ambition was to have the best Indian restaurant on the planet. His top 20 spot in this year’s World’s Best Restaurant Awards shows he’s on course. “Now I just want to be the World’s Best Restaurant. In any category,” he says. Standing in the tiny display kitchen, with a window overlooking the restaurant, the chef is showing me the process for Foie Gras with Onion Baguette, one the v tiny plates that make up his famous tasting menus. He puts slices of foie gras into plastic bags with pinches of salt, pepper and sugar, and a splash of almond liqueur, and puts the bags into a vacuum machine. The alcohol bubbles almost immediately, because vacuuming lowers its boiling point. “The air is sucked out of the pores in the meat, and the alcohol goes in,” Gaggan says. “It gives a buttery texture.” Then he sets it in a sous vide bath at 63 degrees for ten minutes, “to cook and tenderise”. Meanwhile, he lays chopped hazelnuts into the base of a frying pan to roast, and in another pan 125 grams of sugar sprinkled with ground cardamom onto a low heat. The sugar bubbles, getting thicker and stickier and golden brown. Gaggan adds the hazelnut and stirs. “I’m making a praline, basically,” he says, putting the mix in a baking tray and flattening it out to cool. Next, the chef mashes the now-cooked foie gras and feeds it into a blender with 150 grams of fresh 76 | AUGUST 2014
cream. “It’s a thermal mixer,” he says, “which cooks and mixes at the same time. It doesn’t split as it blends in and it doesn’t burn”. He sets the time, spin speed and temperature, adds a touch of salt (“for the cream”) and later a pinch of cardamom. After four minutes Gaggan pours the mix through a strainer, and then into a siphon and charges it with gas, so it becomes like a whipping cream. The baguette fingers are already made: of water, onion juice and a seaweed-based gel called metil. “We whip it until it has the strength to hold air, into a kind of meringue foam,” he explains. “Then we dehydrate it for two days.” The finished product – smooth and crumbly – shatters to dust with the tiniest squeeze of your hand. To serve, Gaggan forms a kind of mini hot dog, piping the foie gras, with onion chutney and the praline – now crushed to a powder – between slices of onion bread. Enjoyed in the summer house ambiance of the restaurant, the dish illustrates the complexity that goes into the tiniest details on these menus. World renown has not changed Gaggan – he remains a gregarious and refreshingly down to earth guy for one so high on the ladder – but it will change the restaurant, for sure. Book now while you can still get a seat.
Gaggan [MAP 4/J7] 68/1 Soi Langsuan | 02-652-1700 eatatgaggan.com | 6pm-11pm
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eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
Home Fare on the River
O
ne of my favorite locales in the Charoenkrung Road area near the Chaophraya River is an old Muslim community around Soi Charoenkrung 36. It has a fantastic vibe and some precious period buildings – among the many reasons I love to return again and again. Another is the comfort I find in the food on offer. Home Cuisine Islamic Restaurant is tucked behind a terrace of grape vines that give the place the appearance of a little French bistro. The interior is very simple. Instead, the emphasis is on the cooking, which appeals to the big Muslim congregation that gathers at a nearby mosque on Fridays. As for the food itself, I start with a salted lassi. It is fresh and light and made using homemade yoghurt. The samosa here is also just about perfect because the wrap has the ideal thickness and crispness and the stuffing is delicious, with just the right amount spice. The dip is a special home-blend and at times I’m tempted to drink it on its own, like a spicy shot! The Muslim chicken soup is made extra aromatic by the fried onion floating on top. I like to add a squeeze of lime juice and sip it slowly, savouring it because it is so good. ‘Salad Khaek’ comprises fresh green leaves, white rings of onion and succulent tomato with sliced boiled
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egg, soft but firm tofu and crispy tiny yam chips. I tend to mix it all together on the serving plate, pour a peanut sauce over it and give the chorus of ingredients a moment to find their harmony before I take a bite. The sauce has a touch of sweetness thanks to palm sugar and a lovely sour twang derived from tamarind. As for other items on the menu, I also enjoy the green curry with roti and khao mok khai (saffron rice with chicken), which also comes with a special sauce. At the end of my meal, I save some space for hot masala tea before taking a stroll through the neighborhood to the riverbank at the end of the soi.
Home Cuisine Islamic Restaurant Soi Charoenkrung 36 | 02-234-7911, 02-630-8766 Mon – Sat from 11am – 22pm and Sunday from 18pm – 22pm
AUGUST 2014 | 7 7
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listings
Benjarong
THAI benjarong [MAP 5/l6] Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 02200-9000 | dusit.com | 6pm-10pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm Stomachs began to rumble with rumours late last year that the The Aromatic Journey (B1100) and the Benjarong Signature Tasting Menu (B1700) can both can be paired with wines for an extra B800 and B1300, respectively. We took the latter, a five-course delight that opened with sparkling wine and three well-balanced tapas bites – bitter notes in deep-fried cuttlefish with turmeric; sweet spicy scallop in a little light coconut milk; and shredded roast pork leg with smokey sweet, mildly spiced chilli jam. The tom yum goong, prettified with pickling onions and delicate balls of giant prawn, is silkily sour and mildly spiced, but traditionally flavoured; and deconstructed yam pla duk foo, which arrives in an upside-down coneshaped glass bowl that you tip over tom yum custard with crabmeat. A good pinot noir from the same label then partners yam neua, made with wagyu beef cubes from flat iron steak, a cut near the shoulder that has more bite than more expensive steaks.
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blue elephant Restaurant & Cooking School [MAP 5/d7] 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 ext 8 blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm The Blue Elephant brand has been wildly successful since it was first established in 1980, introducing Thai food to the world through restaurants dotted all over the place, including those in London, Paris and Dubai. And, of course, there’s one in Bangkok, just under Surasak BTS in a gorgeous oldfashioned Thai building. When you take in the traditional interior, it’s no surprise that Blue Elephant’s food is most confidently presented when they are hewing toward cuisine that, as categorised on their menu, derives from “Thai cooking of the past”. The massaman lamb (B580) is immaculately presented with a sweet, fragrant sauce, while the tom jiew kai (B240) has all the restorative powers of chicken soup, with a delciously peppery aftertaste added for good measure. However, Blue Elephant is not content to let the grass grow under them and that’s why there is also a section of the menu for Thai food “of today” and “of tomorrow”.
Chili Hip [MAP 8/l12] Centara Watergate Pavilion Hotel, 567 Ratchaprop Rd | 02-625-1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com | 5pm-11pm daily Chili Hip enjoys wide, unobstructed views from its perch over Pratunam, and the menu consists mostly of authentic Thai and Asian flavours. There is almost no covered seating, so bear that in mind when the rains come. The restaurant does offer one private, fourseat, air-conditioned room enclosed in glass walls, perfect for a small party.
Paste Menu standouts include the spicy salmon tartar with fried sticky rice (B260). The fish is prepared with just the right mix of lime, chili, mint and coriander, while the sticky rice adds a nice texture. The hot kimchi and tofu soup is another notable choice, not too spicy but with a deliciously sour broth. The steamed seabass fillet with coconut likewise draws high praise, recalling a good tom kha soup, only with less liquid. Sticky rice cakes again provide a nice substitute to a side plate of rice. But the best dish is the duck-stuffed ravioli with red curry sauce, a selection that should be ordered “extra spicy”.
PASTE [MAP 3/P6] 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 02-392-4313 pastebangkok.com | Tues-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6pm-late It’s possible for passersby to miss this new addition to Bangkok’s cosmopolitan dining scene, tucked to one side of soi 49 in the backstreets of Thong Lor. But if the entrance is easily overlooked, the modern Thai food inside is unlikely to be forgotten. For entrees, the dry-spiced chilli squid, topped with vinegar and tomato relish (B240) is a winner. Among the mains, the prime cuts of Australian red meat stand out invitingly from the local produce – the braised beef ribs with ginger rice, tamarind leaves and
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listings
Rock mushroom soy (B380) are perfect if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The roast duck salad with lychee and Vietnamese mint (B380) packs an immediate punch but it is the hint of banana blossom that delivers a surprising, sensational finish. And then there is the tamarind and caramel pork belly with moonflower, red okra and green chilli pickle (400). It’s an inspired combination, the pork belly coming apart effortlessly while its outer layer retains a rainbow of flavours, its richness lightened perfectly by the moonflower and okra.
Rock Restaurant & Bar [MAP 8/l7]
7/1 Soi Chumnanaaksorn, Phanonyothin Soi 9 | 0826-888-200 | Facebook: RockRestaurant-and-Bar | Mon-Sat 5.30pmmidnight Occupying a converted two-storey house tucked away at the end of a quiet soi within walking distance of BTS Ari, Rock takes its name from the restaurant’s main interior motif: large, natural boulders that have been carefully sculpted and polished to support glass tabletops. Track-lit, dark-hued walls define the urban-casual cocktail lounge ambience. It almost comes as a surprise to find that this inviting lounge-like space also boasts
such a talented kitchen team. Under the creative direction of female chef Nhoi Ouypornchaisakul, who has a strong interest in healthy, organic ingredients, the kitchen fashions dishes originating primarily from Thailand, Myanmar and Yunnan. Here they’ve been reformed and re-booted in a way Thai politics can only dream about. Particularly impressive are the appetisers, which come in three sizes and three prices to match appetite and pocketbook. The Crab cream cheese wafers are crispy crepe-like shells of Thai khanom buang with fresh blue crab, cream cheese, green onion and a light sweet-and-sour sauce. Order the large plate, as they disappear quickly.
the local [MAP 3/j8] 32-32/1 Sukumvit 23 | 02-664-0664 thelocalthaicuisine.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-11.30pm It’s a gorgeous old Thai house, split into a couple of buildings. Within, there are several private rooms as well as a collection of old Thai cookbooks and a small museum. It’s impossible not to be charmed by the whole set-up and the willingness to diverge from the template for Thai restaurants. There’s great value on offer when it comes to the mains. Try the salad with sueda leaves, chicken and coconut cream (B280) for a lighter option, delivered here with sweeter notes offset by the more explosive Thai flavours. The stir-fried beef with cumin leaves (B280) is similarly bold, but with more bitter tones ramped up. But the real highlight may be the homemade yellow curry with fish and orange leaves (B250). The addition of orange leaves works brilliantly and introduces an underused flavour.
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For anyone who loves Thai food and wants something between street food and the most high-end places, The Local is likely to become a favourite.
CHINESE IMPERIAL CHINA [MAP 3/M11] Imperial Queens Park Hotel, 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-261-9000 | imperialhotels.com/ imperialqueenspark | Daily 7am-10pm You might think you have a pretty firm idea about Chinese food – after all, it’s one of the most widely available cuisines all around the world, and is everywhere in Bangkok. Still, if this city has one constant – apart from the traffic – it is surely it’s ability to surprise and the expertly prepared offerings at Imperial China might force you to rethink what you think you know about Chinese food. If you’re after a Cantonese feast, there’s plenty on offer – we’ll get to that – but if you fancy the lighter fare, then the dim sum is sensational; the light, bite-sized portions or ornate seafood and pork will have you and your friends fighting each other for control of the Lazy Susan. As delicious as the dim sum is, it’s the main courses where Chef Chu really fires – everyone is familiar with spring rolls, but the ones at Imperial China, made with snowfish and avocado, (B750) are unlike any you’ve had previously, the ingredients off-setting each other perfectly and the texture of the pastry exquisite.
shang palace [MAP 8/f17] 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 02-236-7777 | shangri-la.com 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm
49 Sukhumvit soi 49 - Terrace 49 Building 2nd floor - reservation +6622041731
LA
OTTEGA
private wine room - open lunch and dinner bangkok101.com
www.labottega.name
Photografy for La Bottega by Studio NUMA AUGUST 2014 | 79
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listings seasonings. The scallop, shrimp and crab, on the other hand, is an indulgence for seafood fans, three dishes using seriously high-end produce squeezed together.
FRENCH Crepes & Co The interior is flawlessly elegant and, even more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. Throughout, the food is low on oil, delivering delicate flavours while still being immensely satisfying. The dim sum is the obvious place to start – the scallop siew mai (B120) and the deep-fried shrimp and sesame spring rolls (B90) offer both sweet and salty taste, the scallops deliciously tender while the spring rolls add some crunch. The crispy barbecue pork buns (B80) are also a winner, the pastry bursting coming apart to expose the grilled, saucy goodness. But the signature dish is undoubtedly the Beijing roast duck (B1900) that is enough to feed four people and comes in two separate dishes. First, the skin comes off and is served with thin pancakes, green onion and plum sauce. The duck meat is then taken away and minced or stir-fried before returning to the table, seasoned with pine nuts and egg yolk, to be parcelled up inside fresh lettuce leaves.
the mayflower [MAP 8/k16] Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 02-200-9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm At The Mayflower, the flagship Cantonese restaurant at the Dusit Thani Bangkok, authenticity is the name of the game and the results are delicious. You’ve probably seen the liquid-centred buns with salted egg in the centre in various places around Bangkok – even, gasp, in 7-11 and other convenience stores. Of course, there’s none of that at The Mayflower, their gourmet version making a perfect starter (fried or steamed for B150). The minced shrimp roll comes out wrapped in nori, and topped with ikura, which is salmon roe (B180). But it’s quickly overshadowed by the one-two punch of steamed snowfish with miso sauce (B180) and the crispy scallop, shrimp and crab roll wrapped in seaweed (B150). The popularity of snowfish seems to have skyrocketed in recent years and it is a natural fit for Asian flavours – it retains its light taste and texture while also offsetting more potent 80 | AUGUST 2014
chez pape [MAP 3/f9] 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 02-255-2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed but that’s not to say Chez Pape feels routine. Rather, there are enough surprises, both in terms of the combinations and the presentation to elevate Chez Pape’s food to something more impressive. Starting with the appetisers, there is a ceviche of barracuda in chilli and citrus (B160) or the tartare of avocado, crab and green apple (B200), both hitting the right notes: light, fresh, seafood flavours offset with the right amount of seasonings. But perhaps it’s in the more provincial dishes that Chez Pape declares its hand, offering a portmarinated foie gras terrine, served with toast and mango marmalade (B285). The early courses are certainly impressive enough to build expectation for the mains without being so concept-heavy that they create confusion. The pan-seared beef flank, an exquisite cut of meat, comes with goat-cheese ravioli and garnished with virgin sauce (B450) – it’s a deeply satisfying combination.
l’appart [MAP 3/g9] 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi | 085-924-1565 | sofitel.com 7pm-midnight L’Appart, on the top floor of the Sofitel on Sukhumvit embraces the aesthetic of a Parisian apartment with such conviction that you could ride a bicycle, balancing a baguette on the handlebars, between some tables. Chef Jeremy Tourret may be every inch the French master cook but that hasn’t prevented him taking some intriguing chances, adapting a traditional cuisine to create an adventurous menu. The absolute staples are still represented – frog legs with leek and truffle (B480) and a spectacular bouillabaisse (onion soup) with rock fish, puff Japanese pearl and rouille sauce (B550).Tourret has dialled down the salt for the Asian palate, with the added benefit of making room for the more complex
Maya flavours he has included. He takes it to the next step in the mains. His pan-fried snow fish comes with cauliflower mousseline and Madras curry (B1300) – that’s right, curry. In a French restaurant. It seems risky and may outrage traditionalists but it is testament to Tourret’s technique and imagination that it works and the snow fish is never overwhelmed.
indian MAYA [MAP 3/l10] 29F Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-683-4888 mayathailand.com | 5pm-1am The sparkly, expansive foyer fans out into an unusual L-shaped space, dining room in one direction, merging into a lounge bar in the other. In terms of the food, it’s modern or progressive Indian cuisine that contains more than a few surprises. First, though, the cocktails (all B295) – although the selection is a little bit on the sweet side, it’s clear that some real effort has gone into devising some interesting combinations with Indian twists. This willingness to experiment is also borne out in the food – try the murgh chandi kebab (B380), with chicken marinated in yoghurt, cardamom and mace before being finished with edible silver leaf. Or the raan e Maya (B900 for half a leg, B1600 for the whole), which takes a baby leg of lamb coated in rum and house marinade, slow-cooked in a tandoor oven. The seabass moilee (B550) is also impressive, the fish pan-seared in gingerinfused coconut milk. The tawe ki machli (B750) offers a striking seafood counterpoint, offsetting the mild flavours of a snow fish with south Indian tomato and black olive chutney.
international CREPES & Co [Map 8/L14] 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Road, (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) | 02-6520208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm bangkok101.com
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(B450) and grass-fed lava coal Australia grilled sirloin with sautéed kale, hand-cut chunky fries with a choice of sauce. Finish with a very more-ish butterscotch pot au cream with hazelnut praline (B200). This is a classy venue with good drinks and upperend pub grub.
Hemingway’s The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious. The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options – try the eggplant caviar – but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal afterdinner following. You can keep it simple by going for the Crepe Josephine (B170), which is a straightforward combination of sugar and lemon zest. But if you’ve got a major sweet tooth, you’ll likely move on to the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging with vanilla ice cream and lathered in rich, tangy raspberry sauce. These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you have a real craving. The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B290).
HEMINGWAY’S [MAP 3/J10] Sukhumvit Soi 14 | 02-653 3900 | hemingwaysbangkok.com | 11:30am-late (kitchen closes 10:45pm) Choosing Ernest Hemingway as a concept for your bar-restaurant may not be the most original idea but the archetypal He-Man is associated with so many locations – from the Spanish Civil War to hunting rhinos in the Serengeti – that he gives you plenty to play with. It’s ideal fodder to fill this sprawling 1920s-style golden teak house. We chose (very) dirty Tanqueray martinis from a long drink list (B195), including special cocktails (B220) and beers from their own system served at a reliable minus-two degree. There are 20 or so wines (B1000-B2400 a bottle), including eight by the glass (B150-B350). The food menu moves from bar snacks – try the tasty and tender chilli salt-fried squid with Hemingway’s own tartar sauce (B165) – through soups, entrées and New York pizzas. Among the short list of mains are sea bass with Hemingway’s oyster and absinthe broth, steamed mussels and braised lettuce bangkok101.com
moko [MAP 5/g7] 71/2 Sathorn Soi 10 | 02-635-3673 facebook.com/MokoRestaurant web | 8am10.30pm, closed Tuesday As with many of the most interesting places that crop up in Sathorn – particularly when it comes to places that specialise in brunch or all-day dining – Moko is driven by a French management team and, accordingly, there are plenty of French touches when it comes to the menu design and the produce used. First things first, though, proceedings begin with a well-executed Bloody Mary (B200), with just enough kick to clear out any Saturday morning cobwebs. The cocktail selection is limited but there are some intriguing concoctions – the Passion Martini with vodka, fresh passionfruit and mint is refreshing without veering too far toward sweet and syrupy. In terms of the food, the signature breakfast (B350) comes with eggs, bacon, sausage, fried potatoes and a baguette. On a smaller scale, there’s the eggs Benedict (B280) with salmon and Hollandaise sauce. Pivoting away from breakfast dishes toward the more lunch-focused parts of the menu, the Classica bruschetta (B250) comes piled high with jabugo ham, mozzarella, tomatoes and basil, while the Malibu salad (B300) combines shrimps, mixed salad, shitaki mushrooms and boiled eggs.
napa on 26 [MAP 3/O12] 2F Nihonmachi, 115 Sukhumvit Soi 26 02-258-2622 | napaon26.com | Tues-Sat 6pm-10pm, Sun 11.30am-10pm The concept is Californian cuisine and the appetisers get the ball rolling in style, the Hamachi ceviche (B670), with pomelo, alfalfa sprouts and and wasabi sherbet striking that perfect balance between lightness and flavour. Equally, the Hokkaido scallops (B990) are a richer option, coming with foie gras, red prunes and a vanilla-anis emulsion. The black and white truffle duck cream with thai spices and goose liver (B600) is a show-stopper although the angel hair pasta with prawn, scallop, garlic and lobster oil (B420) lacks complexity and is a prime example of Californian cuisine feeling a little indistinct. AUGUST 2014 | 81
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Tables The whole experience is elevated by the main courses, though, the grain-fed beef tenderloin (B1600; above) comes bathed in red wine sauce with onion puree and spinach. It’s a gorgeous dish, the sauce working wonders alongside the prime cut. The rack of lamb (B1600), with gremolata, eggplant caviar and butternut, is also a triumph, a reminder that Napa 26’s peaks are truly impressive, even if those heights are hard to maintain throughout.
tables [MAP 4/g5] Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd 02-254-1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants and the menu takes full advantage of the theatre. There are wooden floors, potted plants, oxidised mirrors and, high on the walls, larger-than-life cartoonish figures of waiters that lighten the formality. And, despite being a mezzanine restaurant overlooking the colossal pillars in the Erawan’s classically themed lobby, the only overspill of noise is the pleasant bubbling of water from fountains and a jazz trio playing on the landing.
The menu is billed as pan-European and starts with items like meaty and sweet sautéed scallops (B750) balanced by chorizo and the sharp bite of wholegrain mustard and olives. The Caesar salad (B490) is wisely light on dressing so it doesn’t overwhelm the crispy leaves, grown at the Hyatt’s organic farm in Korat. Other classic dishes are the Boston lobster bisque (B850), which is perhaps a little too creamy, and the steak au poivre (B1300), cooked in the oven but finished in full view, flambéed in cognac and served under a beautiful rich sauce.
The District [MAP 3/S10] Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 02-797-0000 | marriott.com 6pm-11pm The name of the restaurant refers to New York’s meat packing district – that shines through in the menu but also in the impressive cocktails. They haven’t limited themselves to pink and fruity, which is a relief, instead coming up with some bold offerings, like the Boss’s Daughter, rum, amaretto, bitters and lemonade, and the Midnight Snack, whiskey, snap liqueur, demerara syrup and egg white (both B270). The highlight at The District, though, is undoubtedly the seafood. The Ice District Heights, main picture, is a jumble of lobster, prawns, oysters, scallops and crab (B2900), enough to look after a group who feel like sampling a bit of everything. The absolute showstopper, though, are the scallops (B850), a shining example of The District’s straightforward approach and presentation concealing the exacting
DiVino standards behind the scenes. They come out as an appetiser-sized serving but they could serve them by the bucket and there would be no complaints. The Australian lamb rack (B980 – above) is succulent and expertly seasoned and the Tasmanian salmon (B690) has a freshness that fills your nostrils the moment it arrives.
italian divino [MAP 3/r6] Penny’s Balcony, Thong Lor Soi 16 02-714-8723 | divinobkk.com 5pm-midnight, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm It’s a curious little set-up, the restaurant split between three rooms that share one corner of Penny’s Corner up in Thong Lor. One section is for private dining, another is filled with stools and high tables, while the newish wine room is a sit-down affair, the walls lined with bottles of gorgeous Italian vino. To get the balling rolling, DiVino offers a selection of cheese (B790 for six different pieces) or imported cold cuts (B700 for the most generous serving). So there’s enough variety there to keep customers happy if they just fancy a bottle of wine over a few shared platters but the main
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Scalini courses raise the stakes in a way that fancier, more concept-heavy places don’t always manage. It’s hard to recall pasta being this exciting. The linguine with Alaskan crab meat (B420) is a lighter affair – let’s not go too far and call it delicate -– while the linguine all’astice (B580) is their signature dish containing half a Boston lobster, dripping in one of those bolshy Italian sauces that looks simple but isn’t.
La Bottega di Luca [MAP 3/P8] The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 02-204-1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm Nestled in a smallish mall on soi 49, La Bottega di Luca is an immediately welcoming space, effortlessly combining indoor-outdoor seating and cultivating a relaxed vibe that makes it a neighbourhood favourite with real panache. Luca, who runs the show, updates the parts of the menu regularly and orders produce in from Italy fortnightly. The antipasti start at B290 and the grilled scamorza (B390) – that’s smoked mozzarella – wrapped in speck ham with mushrooms and red wine sauce is a delight. There’s a sizeable menu and it can be tricky to know which direction to take. The most eye-catching salad is the seafood combination (B220) with steamed prawns, baby squid, mussels and clams seasoned with garlic. But who are we kidding? We’re here for the rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion. That means it’s hard to go past the homemade pasta that gets freshly made every day – the dishes are reasonably priced at B240-490, although you’ll be shelling out B1790 if you go for the lobster.
scalini [MAP 3/n12] Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 02-620 6666 | hilton.com/en | Noon2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Bangkok is, naturally enough, best known for its Thai food, with other Asian cuisines not far behind. But these days, European food – French or Italian – is booming, particularly when served with a twist. So it is with Scalini – it’s ostensibly a bangkok101.com
modern Italian place but it riffs on a New York connection, while borrowing bits and pieces from the international table. So, in short, it’s Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. It’s apparent from the antipastis, which include a tuna and salmon tartar, with lemon aioli, mango salad and seared ciabatta (B450) – retaining a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced combinations. Other dishes stay closer to home, such as the Wagyu beef carpaccio, with porcini salsa, rocket and parmesan, served with white truffle vinaigrette (B570). The rich, satisfying taste of Italian food has an extra layer of complexity. And it’s on show again with the Hokkaido scallops, served here with celery, red onion, tomatoes, basil and cherry vinaigrette (B480).
japanese kaguya [MAP 3/r6] The Third Place Building, 137 Thong Lor Soi 10 | 02-714-9974 | facebook.com/ kaguyagastrobar | 5.30pm-1am; Sat-Sun 11am-2pm It’s ostensibly Japanese – this has the advantage of focusing the menu, although there are plenty of dishes that strain at the shackles of narrow ‘cuisine categorisation’. The drinks, first, are excellent – these guys take cocktails seriously, as they should. They’re innovative while keeping the most important principles in mind and there are some interesting results, delivering offset and balance in equal measure, served with a flair for presentation. Take, for example, The Way Of The Samurai (B280): Japanese single malt, yuzu and brown sugar served in a shaker to resemble an armoured samurai, topped with a ‘helmet’ of bitters that drips down during drinking. Full marks. The food presents a more complex equation – the best dishes are also the most conceptually coherent. The sous vide ox tongue with yuzu (B260) is deliciously salty and the yuzu is the perfect twist, while the tuna tartare with homemade nori potato chips (B320) comes with a selection of side seasonings and is ideal for sharing.
taihei [MAP 5/l8] 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm From the moment the platter of sashimi moriawase (B520) comes out, prime seafood cuts delicately arranged, it’s clear that
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CHEZ PAPÉ
French Bistro
OPEN DAILY for LUNCH set lunch 2 courses 390 B++ ONLY
H A P P Y H O U R
Selected Beers & Wines Every Day 5 pm to 7 pm
Sukhumvit Soi 11
OPEN DAILY 5pm - 11pm LUNCHTIMES 11:30am - 2pm RESERVATIONS: 02 255 2492 info@chezpape.com
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Taihei there is a real commitment to quality. The presentation is also immaculate, offering a swathe of bright colours – bright pinks and flashes of silver-grey. It’s beautiful food. And it tastes pretty damn fine as well, the tuna, in particular, soft and slightly salty on its own, mild enough to work in the mouth alongside a dab of soy and wasabi. Another highlight is the beef teriyaki (B580; main image), sourced from Australia and broiled, before coming out served with seasonal greens, again bursting with colour. If you’re not super-keen to fill up on red meat, try the gindara miso (B600). It’s a cod fish cooked to perfection, kissed on each side just long enough to turn the skin crispy, before being served with tangy miso seasoning. There’s also a selection of tempura to choose from, whether you fancy prawns (B450), pork skewers (B380) or chicken karage (B350).
ten-sui [MAP 3/k11] 33 Soi Sukhumvit 16 | 088-540-1001 tensui.co | 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience – both in terms of the food but also the ambience – than at Ten-Sui. It’s worth noting that this place is highend, with prices to match. The selection of omakase nigiri, for example, goes for B3000. That’s not to say that you have to break the bank here to have an enjoyable meal – you can go for a bento box for B450, which gives you a selection of Japanese goodies, or the special maki (B500). Among the main dishes, the buri nitsuke (B600) is a lip-smacking piece of yellowtail tuna, prepared here with a slightly sweeter, ginger seasoning. But the highlight is probably the beef houba yaki (B500), thinly sliced Australian beef grilled with miso paste on a magnolia leaf, delivering a tangy smokiness that you’re unlikely to find at any other humble barbecue places. It’s a completely satisfying dish, with enough intriguing undertones to reward every mouthful. 84 | AUGUST 2014
4F VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phayathai Rd 02-309-3939 | facebook.com/YTSB.BKK 6pm-11pm Naturally, you’ll want to start with a cocktail and YTSB – which stands for Yellow Tail Sushi Bar – capitalises on its location in the VIE Hotel. One of the stand-out signature cocktails is the Ginza Strip (B260), which is a dry sake martini, sweetened with basil and topped with a hint of cucumber. It’s refreshing and easy to drink but still with a kick. But it’s all about the sushi here and when the platter of sakura sushi (B1800) arrives, it doesn’t fail to impress. There are some wellexecuted old favourites in there – the yellow tail, the king crab and the giant shrimp – but also a few surprises. The strip of sea eel, for example, has its own distinctive flavour while the sea urchin, wrap up in a seaweed cylinder is rich and delicate all at once. It’s definitely one to eat slowly and savour. The aburi sushi platter (B960) also has an intriguing selection, the blue fin served up lashed with sauce alongside a tender strip of squid.
ZIPANGU [MAP 3/h9] 28/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | 02-651-2180 facebook.com/TheZipangu | 6am-2am Among the highlights of the sake menu is the effervescent Mizubasho Pure (B2000, 360ml), a hybrid sake-champagne whose sales in Japan have surged since it was served at a dinner party hosted by the Japanese prime minister. Another sake, Time Machine Vintage (B2400/B300), features a lovely light amber glow and a sweet taste, while Tamagawa Gyoku-ryu JunmaiDaiginjo Yamahai (B3900/B850), fruity and full-bodied, is Zipangu’s most popular sake among Thai and Western customers. Tamagawa Junmai Yamahai non-filter NamaGenshu (B2000/B500), served hot, has a slightly higher alcohol content (20 percent) than the others. Zipangu’s other notable spirits include a delightful light citrus yuzu and a range of Japanese whiskeys. Food standouts – and there are many – include a fried Volcano Roll (B320) filled with salmon and cream cheese, and served with tartar sauce drizzled in soy. The Caesar salad roll (thick crispy bacon, crunchy croutons, romaine and Parmesan cheese, rolled inside soft edible rice paper, B290), likewise, had us nodding in admiration. On the traditional side of the menu, you could hardly do better than the black cod fish marinated in miso for three days and then grilled (B490).
Zuma
Zuma [MAP 4/G6] Ground Fl, 159 Rajadamri Road | 02-2524707 | zumarestaurant.com | 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm The style and presentation of the dishes is unmistakably contemporary – authentic but not traditional – exemplified by a particularly snazzy range of cocktails, including the Rubabu (B295), which blends sake and vodka with fresh passionfruit, and a spectacular lychee rose martini. The technique required to execute the smaller dishes is truly impressive and, because of Zuma’s three open kitchens, customers can watch the chefs at work. There are several highlights, though, including the sliced yellowtail served with green chilli relish, ponzu and pickled garlic (B410) – the effect is stunning, a mouthful of the most delicately textured seafood packed with light but still intense flavour. No less impressive are the plates of nigiri sushi and selected sashimi (B1100) – Japanese food has become so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget how it’s meant to taste when it’s done with absolute precision and attention to detail. Some diners may be nervous about eating raw beef (B490) but at Zuma, served with citrus dressing, it goes down so well that any apprehension soon evaporates.
seafood snapper [MAP 3/f8] 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-1098 snapper-bangkok.com Mon-Fri 5pm midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight New Zealand cuisine is hard to define precisely but it emphasises quality produce, and allows it to speak for itself with uncomplicated presentation. This works particularly well when it comes to seafood and, although Snapper has a low-key, laidback atmosphere, owners Mark and Craig take their produce very seriously, importing it all the way from the chilly waters of the Tasman. The Nelson Bay scallops, sauteed in white wine, butter and chives (B790) epitomise the approach of not masking the natural bangkok101.com
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goodness of the product with a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients. That seafood taste is there in spades, along with a perfectly firm yet tender texture that identifies top-drawer seafood. They’ve got some stiff competition from the mussels, though, served as starters (B200-B300) or in a more substantial sharing platter (B480), topped with spiced tomato that offsets the ocean-infused tang without ever overwhelming it.
the oyster bar [MAP 2/e11] 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 | 02-2124809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know the owner of a restaurant takes his seafood seriously when there are several pages of the menu devoted entirely to oysters. With Billy Marinelli, owner of the Oyster Bar in a foodie enclave of Chong
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Nonsi, customers are in good hands. If you’ve brought your most serious appetite, move on to the seafood platter (B2000 for two or B3500 for four or more), offering a gorgeous pile of oysters, scallop sashimi, bay shrimp, seaweed salad, Dungeness crab, mussels, clams and caviar. The portions here are generous – and remarkably affordable given the quality – but they’re unlikely to last long once they land on the table as every part of the platter positively glows with that slightly briney goodness. For some diners, that may be enough but for those prepared to carry on, the rewards are well worth it. The seafood paella (B600 for two) is as good at it gets, rustically presented, steaming with spices and sauce, a mountain of mixed seafood to be ladled out and shared.
STEAKHOUSE dallas steakhouse [MAP 3/l10] 575-579 Sukhumvit | 02-662-3838 dallassteakhousebangkok.com | 2pmmidnight For those willing to get their hands dirty, the roasted New Zealand mussels, bathed in a white wine cream, are hard to overlook, the natural seafood taste offset delicately by the
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richer sauce. This is good stuff, executed with some panache that would not be out of place in more upscale surroundings. But the meat is the main event and it all comes together in impressive fashion. The BBQ pork ribs (B790) are perfect, served up in an imposing rack that comes apart easily for a rewarding feeding frenzy. That’s the ultimate appeal of ribs and it’s a box that’s compherensively ticked here. For diners less keen on getting marinade on their faces – or maybe it’s just us – the T-bone steak (B765) offers a more demure option. More exciting still is the sizzling plate of Wagyu beef (B450, main image) served with grilled vegetables in a garlic and mushroom sauce. This is honest, meaty fare done exceedingly well. It sounds like a simple formula but it’s not always implemented properly.
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Nightlife WOO HOO FOR COCKTAILs
WOOBAR at W Bangkok (106 North Sathorn Road, 02-344-4131) has new promotions running until September 30 featuring inspiring cocktail choices for him and her. The Boys Love Summer Pops promotion is held every Thursday from 7pm-9pm to the sounds of WOOBAR’s very own DJs, with free-flow ‘Summer Pops’ cocktails for gents who dress in the theme of the evening (the theme is announced on Mondays via W Bangkok’s Facebook page (facebook. com/wbangkok) and Instagram (instagram.com/wbangkok). The City Girls Love Bubbles night takes place every Friday evening with free-flow sparkling wine for ladies. Partygoers and drinkers can also enjoy the further development of the bar’s iconic Gin Couture (#gincouture) gin and tonic menu.
PRECIOUS TURN
Axis & Spin, the chic sky bar at the 38/39th floors of The Continent Hotel (413 Sukhumvit Road, 02-686-7000) is putting a shine on Wednesday nights throughout August with all drinks and desserts served with flakes of gold. Head on over to feel a golden glow both inside and out. If that’s a bit rich for your tastes, then try the venue’s regular Monday night wine tasting from 7pm9.30pm including 5 glasses of premium wine and 5 types of cheese.
LEBUA TWISTS AGAIN
Café Mozu at Lebua (M floor, State Tower, 1055 Silom Road, 02-624-9998) has introduced a Twisted Classics cocktail series which, according to master mixologist Ron Ramirez, “takes a futuristic approach to five legendary classics, maintaining their traditional flavour but adding love, care and a passion for detail combined with exquisite delivery to create finely crafted futuristic masterpieces that redefine luxurious poolside bar service”. The Twisted Classics series includes the Liquid Martini – originally the Classic Martini; the Nitropolitan – originally the Cosmopolitan; the My-Thai – originally the Mai Tai; the Red Velvet Caipirinha – originally the Caipirinha; and the Black Clover Club – originally the Clover Club.
BLOOMING MARVELLOUS
Refreshing and original, This is House at KU DÉ TA Bangkok (39-40 Floors, Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Road, 02-108-2000) presents a night of Happenings with Flower Power on August 21 from 9pm. DJs Denis Beyer, Zeek Kaboom and Alex iM!X bringing a unique blend of eclectic sounds, but it’s not just about the music. The ultimate goal is to create a unique atmosphere where both guests and organizers will have a memorable synesthetic experience. Art photographer Olga Volodina and make-up artist Jane Kurenkova and their team are preparing surprises and performances ranging from fashion photo and film shoots to art happenings. bangkok101.com
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Gossip - A Mediterranean mixture -
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t’s the Holy Grail of the hospitality industry: the upmarket gastrobar where people are just as likely to come for the cocktails as for a three-course meal. The appeal is obvious – Gossip taps into the twin markets of diners and drinkers; when the pitch works and outlets like this stick around, the spend-per-head skyrockets accordingly. Often, though, one of the elements isn’t quite there. Either the food is right and the cocktails lacking, or vice versa, i.e. bar-driven without sufficient attention paid to the food. With that in mind, it should be said that Gossip does an admirable job of walking the tightrope. The cocktails are excellent, tapping into a broad base of ingredients and using them to riff effectively on familiar staples. The food, which could broadly be described as modern Mediterranean, is also top-drawer. With a big, inviting bar on the ground floor and an attractive, warmly lit dining room upstairs, there’s definitely room for both but, at the moment, Gossip probably undersells its excellent food in favour of promoting a lounge bar atmosphere. Among the drinks, The West Cobbler (B280) combines Jamaican rum, grapefruit liqueur, Campari and agave syrup to refreshing effect. It’s like a tarter, punchier Mojito and an impressive statement of intent. Also try a Speech 88 | AUGUST 2014
Club (B300), which takes a gin base and adds apricot brandy and Martini Blanco before finishing with honey and bitters. It’s good stuff and ensures that Gossip is at home among the upper echelon of Thong Lor’s cocktail bars. But it’s the food that suggests real potential. The shift to Mediterranean cuisine – Italian, mostly – is relatively recent and the execution is excellent; the slightly bland-looking menu really doesn’t do it justice and needs a design tweak. For example, the crab and quinoa salad (B310) is deliciously fresh with lighter notes of citrus and would not be out of place as a starter at a fine dining restaurant. Equally, the spicy sausage penne (B320) sounds straightforward but it combines a home-cooked heartiness with an exquisite peppery aftertaste and herbal hints. In the same vein, the rosemary lamb (B750) presents a grilled Australian saddle in a red wine sauce seasoned to perfection. Allowing for a slight adjustment of emphasis, the elements are certainly in place for Gossip to be one of the city’s more appealing gastrobars.
Gossip
[MAP 3/Q6]
313 Thong Lor Soi 15 | 02-185-3093 gossip-bangkok.com | 4pm-1am
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NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST - Bold flavours and lush ambience -
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hef Ian Kittichai, the genius behind Bangkok’s first gastrobar, Hyde & Seek, has a new venture underway. Namsaah Bottling Trust occupies a century-old mansion in Silom Soi 7 that was once a soda bottling company’s office – Namsaah means ‘effervescent water’. Here high ceilings, rich teak floors and a wealth of antique furniture achieves a warm, classy informality that makes the venue the perfect place to unwind and enjoy intimate conversation with friends. A long wooden bar segues into a small dining area that was once the living room of the house, encouraging guests to begin the evening with drinks from an extensive cocktail menu. Favourites include the Roasted Tangerine Negroni [B290], poured over a hand-chipped ice ball, and the Sathorn Dirty Vodka Martini [B290], which achieves the perfect balance of brine and bluster. A gin and tonic [B390] infused with rosemary, lavender and juniper berries, served in a brandy snifter, is also a big hit. An extensive wine list offers red, white and sparkling varietals by the bottle or the glass. Chef Ian’s creative whimsy achieves full force in Naamsaah’s eclectic menu offerings. Salmon Tartar Wonton “Tacos” [B260] place high-quality raw salmon into wonton skins that have been folded and crisped to resemble the Mexican speciality. Dressed with chilli,
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lime, tomato and a hint of chipotle to make the Mexican reference, the crunchy, savoury half-moons are delicious Croquette Noir[B200], pingpong-sized balls of mashed potato blended with red curry paste and galangal, are coated with squid-ink bread crust and lightly deep fried to produce a surprisingly light, enjoyable starter, while Momos [B220], a cluster of delicate beef dumplings steamed in a wicker dim-sum basket and served with a cumin, black pepper and coriander sauce, elevates the reputation of this Himalayan staple to heretofore-unseen heights. Getting into the mains, the Kung Pao Chicken [B320] is well balanced with cashew nuts, roast dried chilli, green onions and Chinese wine sauce while the Sai Oua “Haute Dog” [B350], in which spicy Chiang Mai sausage is folded into a ginger-shallot bun and dressed with Sriracha aioli, and the Pink Krapow Burger [B450], made with Wagyu beef, fried egg, tomato and holy basil sauce, and served on a toasted pink peppercorn brioche bun, are two dishes that make perfect drinking food to go with after-work cocktails at the bar.
Namsaah Bottling Trust
[MAP 5/H5]
Silom Soi 7 | 02-636-6622 www.namsaah.com | 5pm-2am
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Ku De Ta
to categorise – there’s a welcome mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of Levels’ buzzy atmosphere.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4]
Nightclubs ku de ta [MAP 5/g6] 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 02-108-2000 kudeta. net | 6pm-late Since its opening amid much fanfare at the end of last year, Ku De Ta has quickly built a reputation as one of the places in Bangkok to keep an eye on. The hype and the investment have been massive and there’s an ambition to match. Ku De Ta sets out to add a new dimension to a night out in Bangkok by providing an upscale club experience for the city’s movers and shakers but it has also carved out its own unique aesthetic that is sure to make it one of Bangkok’s top nightlife destination venues. Undoubtedly, the space is the first part of Ku De Ta’s glittering fit-out that catches the eyes. The main club is a vast rectangular area with skyscraper ceilings and a long window running down an entire side, affording an exceptional view of Bangkok. Another feature is the very snazzy, very modern LED ‘chandelier’ hangs over the dance floor, twinkling a variety of different colours.
Levels [MAP 3/f8] 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0823-083-246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am Of all the venues of Sukhumvit Soi 11, Levels has benefited the most from the closure earlier this year of Bed Supperclub. Great swathes of that clientele now overflow to the other side of the soi, making Levels one of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok, on any night of the week. At many popular clubs in Bangkok, the crowd quickly finds a familiar groove, attracting one particular kind of revellers that old hands can identify fairly quickly – whether that’s the tourists passing through on the way to the beach or the slightly more clued-up locals returning to a favourite haunt. At Levels, though, it’s much harder 90 | AUGUST 2014
President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd mixxdiscotheque.com | B350 | 10pm-late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls.
ROUTE 66 [Map 8/Q12] 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | route66club.com B200 foreigners incl. drink / free for Thais Rammed with hordes of dressed-to-kill young Thais on most nights of the week, ‘Route’, as it is affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, alllasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands bang out hits in ‘The Novel’. Route is not a good place to lose your friends but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area. One sore point: unlike the locals, foreigners are charged a B200 entry fee.
Q BAR [Map 3/C4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with big name international DJs appearing regularly. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife twelve years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now, there’s more room to dance and more lounge space, especially at QUP, the more downtempo upstairs area. Also, out the back of the venue, you can find your way into Le Derriere, Q Bar’s very own Parisianstyle absinthe bar.
Q Bar
hotel bars & clubs BARSU [map 3/F6] 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250, Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, there are five live bands for each night of the week. Comprised of students from Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Jazz, Tenon Round’ are a gifted young quartet who perform every Tuesday from 8.30 to 10.30pm. The other bands, JazzPlayground, P.O.8, Rhythm Nation and Hot Gossip, play from Wednesday to Saturday respectively. In between sets, tuck into their ‘Goong goong goong’ menu, combining fresh prawns with a variety of international flavours.
spasso [MAP 8/l13] Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-254-1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm2.30am There’s no shortage of hotel bars in Bangkok but Spasso, on the ground floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan has been around for 21 years and remains a favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it presents as a sedate Italian restaurant but after hours, after it transforms into a club and cocktail bar, it really hits its stride, revelling in its energetic, uninhibited atmosphere. The lay-out is unconventional – an open-plan foyer and dining area narrows into a dancefloor, flanked by two horseshoeshaped bars. It has the effect of funnelling all the action between the bars and on to the dancefloor. Spasso is not so much for Bangkok scenesters – its biggests selling point is that it’s slightly wild and the live band does its best to whip partygoers into even higher spirits. bangkok101.com
listings Heaven
every drink with one too many flavours. The Surreal Seduction – slightly cheesey name but we’ll forgive it because it tastes good – combines vodka, apple liqueur, elderflower syrup and pear puree. It’s super fruity but apple liqueur is one of the more versatile, underused ingredients in cocktails and it sets off the others in a way that’s refreshing but still carries a kick.
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Long Table
LONG TABLE [Map 3/H8]
Bars with views Above Eleven [MAP 3/C4] 33Fl Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-207-9300 aboveeleven.com | 6pm-2am A west-facing 33rd floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, Above Eleven is a winning combination. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on. Tip: choose a seat on the north side – it gets windy to the south. There’s a great view, an impressive cocktail list and an electro soundtrack.
AMOROSA [Map 7/C12] 4F Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd 02-221-9158 | arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails and a so-so wine list. The showstopper, though, is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, guests gaze out from its balcony terrace on to the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn, on the banks beyond. Go before sundown and enjoy watching the sun sink slowly behind it. Or come later, when amber floodlights make it glow against the night sky.
heaven [MAP 8/k13] 20F Zen @ Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-100-9000 | heaven-on-zen.com Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am It’s heavily dependent on the weather as the design offers precious little protection but on a warm Bangkok night, when the golden backdrop of its feature bar lights up like a metal sun, it feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital. Crucially, they’ve got the cocktails (all B280-B320) right, using a well-chosen blend of spirits without going overboard and trying to cram bangkok101.com
25F 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 02-302-2557 | longtablebangkok.com 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing that draws Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar. There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – wide-screen city vistas.
MOON BAR [Map 5/K8] 61F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too.
octave [MAP 3/s10] 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 02-797-0000 facebook.com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back some of Octave’s punchy,
refreshing cocktails. The Thai Mojito (B320) starts things off in a way that’s familiar enough but well-executed, combining the standards of white rum, basil and lime with spicy mango, adding a zingy twist to the established mojito formula. More innovative still is the Bloom Over The Roof (B320), which fuses Red Berry Tea-flavoured vodka with fresh mint leaves and elderflower syrup. It might seem a little flowery but the overall effect is a seriously drinkable concoction that cuts right through the humidity. A welcome addition to the afterwork scene in this neck of the woods.
NEST [Map 3/C4] 9F Le Fenix, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 02-305-4000 | lefenixsukhumvit.com 5pm-2am An all-white and urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, Nest is a loungey and laid-back spot on weekdays and early evenings, with couples enjoying signature martinis and upmarket nibbles from the comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially during special party nights. These include Mode, a shindig every second Saturday of the month that pumps hip-hop and house beats rather than the usual smooth Balearic sounds. What are the views alike? With buildings looming above you, not below you, here you feel part of the cityscape.
RED SKY [Map 4/F 3] 56F Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 02-100-1234 centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm-1am Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a AUGUST 2014 | 91
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listings Lang Suan. A long international snack menu stands out for decent portions at reasonable prices; spirits (from B270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B300-B600 a glass, while cocktails (from B 290) include home-made vodka infusions.
threeSixty [map 5/b2] Nest circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slowcooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. It’s not exactly cheap, but the daily happy hours (buy one get one drink on selected wine, beer and cocktails from 5pm-7pm).
SKY BAR / DISTIL [map 5/C5] 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd 02-624-9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Sky bar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seafood eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 sports yet another stunning view from the 51st – 52nd floors. These places are definitely not spots for the casual beach bum, so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart casual dress code is enforced.
The Speakeasy [MAP 4/J6] Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd 02-630-4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking 92 | AUGUST 2014
Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd 02-442-2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am High above the glittering lights of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River, ThreeSixty is the only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire, dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, all year round. A private glass lift takes guests all the way up to the 32nd floor which boasts panoramic vistas from its 130m tall, circular lounge. Guests can feast on a range of miniature culinary experiences, from foie gras to caviar or risotto, or sip on fine wines and cocktails as the sun sets in a blaze of colour behind Wat Arun. Just as gently, the soft lounge lights come on to create an atmosphere of casual intimacy. As the first stars appear, the city’s coolest jazz sounds will set the mood which true aficionados will not be able to resist.
woo bar [map 5/g7] W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 02-344-4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok Sun-Wed 9am-1am, Thurs-Sat 9am-2am Located on the ground floor of the W Hotel, Woo Bar has all of the flair and emphasis on design that has come to characterise the hotel franchise. It’s chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, spacious enough to find a seat without being echoey and without atmosphere. And, most importantly, the cocktails pass with flying colours, some inventive signature drinks rubbing shoulders with well-executed standard tipples. The Bliss (B325), which comes from the bartenders at W Hotel in New York, combines Ciroc vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, mint and fresh ginger. You might struggle to stop at just one.
BARS Apoteka [map 3/e8] 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 090-626-7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight As you may have guessed, the name is based on an outdated word for pharmacist and the place is meant to emulate a 19th
Red Sky century apothecary. Unsurprisingly, it has an old-school feel. There are high ceilings, red brick walls and Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde being projected onto the wall. Indoor seating is a mix of tall tables with studded chairs, and long tables for larger groups along the main wall. Large cases filled with vintage-coloured bottles of medicine flank the bar. A wooden patio with some cozy furniture that could be a nice place to curl up on a date or meet some friends for a smoke and a beer.
BARLEY BISTRO [map 5/h5] 4F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 087-033-3919 5pm-late | barleybistro.com Hidden up some stairs at the Food Channel, an enclave of franchise-like restaurants, Barley Bistro is slick and snazzy. The design is chic (blacks and greys, white-on-black stencil art); the drinks funky (lychee mojitos, testtube cocktails etc); the food new-fangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the clientele wholesome (Thai office workers mostly). Do check out the open-air rooftop. It’s littered with cooling fans, huge bean bags and funky barleystalk sculptures.
BREW [map 3/Q6] Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 02-185-2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am It wasn’t so long ago that the beer selection here was comprised entirely of the ubiquitous local lagers and the Heinekens and Carlsbergs of this world. The fact that it doesn’t anymore is largely thanks to Chris Foo, the owner of this beer bar tucked away on the ground floor of Thonglor Soi 13’s happening mini-mall Seenspace. Depending on what time of year it is, Brew stocks between 140 and 170 bottles of ales, lagers, ciders, you name it. Currently, the setting in which you sip them is hip in Thonglor circles. That’s not so much down to Brew’s tiny interior, with its exposed piping and bar flanked by kegs of beer and brick walls, as the buzzing outdoor area it bangkok101.com
listings Apoteka
shares with futuristic cocktail bar Clouds and the nautically themed Fat’r Gutz.
CAFÉ TRIO [map4 / H6] 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-252- 6572 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sun of the month Cafe Trio is just about the only bar worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Tucked down a narrow alley just off the upmarket residential street, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and has plastered the walls with her Modiglianiesque, Vietnamese inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home.
CHEAP CHARLIE’S [map 3/D6] Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little sub-soi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed nightspots Q Bar and the other newer spots that have cropped up recently.
CLOUDS [Map 3/Q2] 1F SeenSpace, 251/1 Thong Lor Soi 13, 02-185-2365 | cloudslounge.com The third bar by Australian Ashley Sutton – the mad scientist of Bangkok’s bar scene – is, as we’ve come to expect, something bangkok101.com
entirely unexpected. Evoking a future where ‘there are no more natural resources’, this slim concrete shell at the rear of hip lifestyle mall SeenSpace has a living tree encased in glass in one corner, and concrete blocks, topped with lumps of translucent leafencasing acrylic, for tables. Vodka-based cocktails (B 280) by New York mixultant Joseph Boroski are prepped by ‘NASA technicians’ in white overalls; and the food offerings tasty misshapen pizzas, cooked in a gas-oven behind the bar.
FACE BANGKOK (map3/S7) 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 02-713-6048 facebars.com | 11.30am-1am Jim Thompson, move over. Face’s visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim’s former mansion, with Ayutthaya-style buildings and thriving flora, it’s just bigger and bolder. The Face Bar is a dimly-lit place that summons deluxe drinkers with its cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails. Though often empty, the big drink list will stop your body clock pretty fast. The two restaurants – Hazara serving Northern Indian and Lan Na Thai serving traditional Thai – are full of fab all-Asian decor; they’re romantic and inviting, but you might be let down by the tiny portions, and the flamboyant prices.
FAT GUT’Z [map 3/Q2] 264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 02-7149-832 fatgutz.com | 6pm-2am This sleek saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people, there to listen to live blues, indulge in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious sense of whimsy – here, the random fittings and industrial decor are replaced by straight lines and modern furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought in master New York mixologist Joseph Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 each).
FIVE Gastronomy & Mixology [MAP 3/O9]
Room 103, K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26 088-524-5550 | facebook.com/fivebkk 6pm-1am Five brings a welcome wand blast of gothic whimsy to K Village, an otherwise aesthetically uninspiring community mall. Its owner, Pattriya Na Nakorn, invited bar entrepreneur Ashley Sutton to work his magic with a vacant plot on the ground
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Cheap Charlie’s floor. And, completing her dream team is Joseph Boroski, the same New York based cocktail ‘mixologist’ that Sutton uses. His bars always engage the day-dreamy part of your brain and this black magic themed one is no different. Think clanking pulleys, monumental iron piping and flickering candles. Indeed, even the staff look like they’ve stumbled off the set of one of the Harry Potter movies.
HYDE & SEEK [Map 4/L5] 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee 02-168-5152 | 11am-1am | hydeandseek.com This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pickmeup cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgian-influenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs go well with custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini-maze of tea plants.
maggie choo’s [MAP 5/c5] Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd 02-635-6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos Tues-Sun 6pm-2am From the Victorian steam-punk of Iron Fairies to the eco-futurism of Clouds, Aussie entrepreneur Ashley Sutton has already proved himself as the Terry Gilliam of Bangkok’s bar world, conjuring up drinking hole after drinking hole shot through with a magical realist quality. Maggie Choo’s, with its decadent atmosphere redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens, is no different. Clomp down the staircase and you find yourself in a noodle bar. One that could pass for an old Shaw AUGUST 2014 | 93
Bangkok classic: room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch, all of which you’re free to skulk through at your leisure. Some come here to snag a comfy sofa, retro sign or goofy tchotchke. Others come for the big menu of Italian and Thai dishes tweaked for the local palate. But for us, it works best as a bar, as the setting and generous happy hours mean there really are few cooler places to kick back.
Hyde & Seek Brothers movie set. The main decoration – and they are just decoration – are the leggy cabaret girls. Every evening at about 9pm about half a dozen walk out from behind a velvet curtain and proceed to fan themselves on swings.
Moose [MAP 3/S3] Ekamai Soi 21 | 02-108-9550 facebook.com/moosebangkok Tucked away behind Tuba and up a shabby looking staircase, Moose is one of the most talked about new bars in the city. The same team behind Cosmic Café and Sonic have revamped this warehouse-sized space into the latest retro-inspired hipster bar. Brick walls, a small tree here and there, flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads create a relaxed, living-room-esque ambience. A DJ spins unobtrusive tunes while authentic and delicious Thai food, such as salted pork neck (150 baht) and southern style curry (B160) ensures the bar consistently draws a young, local crowd who know their food.
OSKAR BISTRO [map 3/D5] 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255 3377 4pm-2am; kitchen open until 11.30pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby; and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. The food choice includes sandwiches, the Oskar burger (wagyu beef – what else?), pizzas and a section of cocottes. Almost all are under B300, which for food of this surprising quality is a steal. Most people come here though not for the food but for a pre-club libation: be it glass of wine (from B145 a glass), imported beer, or reasonably priced cocktail.
TUBA [Map 8/S14] 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 02-711-5500 design-athome.com | 11am-2am Owned by the same hoarders behind furniture warehouse Papaya, Tuba is a 94 | AUGUST 2014
Maggie Choo’s
VIVA AVIV [map 5/C2] River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 02-639-6305 vivaaviv.com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade, inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic look, the bar was initially looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek.
Water Library @ Grass [Map 3/R6] Grass Thong Lor, 264/1 Thong Lor Soi 12 02-714-9292 | Mon-Sat 6.30pm-1am Aside from its upmarket, inventive set menu dining on the first floor restaurant, The Water Library also has three lounge and wine bar areas downstairs with funky food, cocktails and live music at not audacious prices. A set menu of three cocktails paired with tapas bites at B790 is a pleasant surprise, and their wine list starts at B900 a bottle. Water Library is one to watch on the regional drinking and dining scene. The very talented mixologist Mirko Gardelliano was Germany’s Cocktail Champion in 2003.
WTF [Map 3/Q6] 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 02- 626-6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am This tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. Expect live gigs, art exhibitions upstairs and a mix of hipsters, journos and scenesters.
LIVE MUSIC ADHERE the 13TH [Map 7/G3] 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) 089-769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except forthe Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this downto-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ’em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin
COSMIC CAFE [Map 8/Q12] RCA Block C | Rama IX Rd | MRT Rama 9 The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café serves up a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in a grungy, open-sided corner bar with outdoor seating and a small dance floor. On one night you might the place jumping to a rare live performance by mor lam legend Dao Bandon, on another a house band dishing out some surf guitar, ska, electronic or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it draws a lively, musically discerning crowd, from skinny jeaned artschool hipster types to teddy boy expats.
TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY [MAP 2/E11]
462/61 Rama III Rd | 02- 678-1114 tawandang.co.th The one place that every taxi driver seems to know, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall packs in the revelers nightly. They come for the towers of micro-brewed beer, the Thai, Chinese and German grub (especially the deep-fried pork knuckle and sausage), and, not least, the famous Fong Nam houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by 10pm, when the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt, everybody is on their feet and the place going bananas. bangkok101.com
IF THE SHOE FITS… By ByNaina Gaby Doman Chugh
Yx
et another xxxxx recurring xxxxxx xxxxx trend from the 90’s, jelly shoes are “in” and they’re xxx here to stay. These nostalgic pieces have been successfully xxx re-branded as chic, fashion-forward, and right on-trend. xxxBrands like River Island, Office, Kurt Geiger, New Look, and Topshop – to name a few – are going all out with this old-school craze. Other high-end designers are also taking this trend to a whole new at:from his Spring 2014 collection, Christian level.available With “Aqua Ronda” Louboutin brings sophistication and oomph to the otherwise casual, summery xxxvibe of this trend. Even Marc Jacobs has jumped on the bandwagon xxx with wood-soled recreations of these classic beauties. These PVC xxx gems are precisely what every girl needs in her closet this season. Melissa, xxxwebout favourite jelly shoe label from Brazil, is right in tune with the moment as they launch their latest collection. Called ‘Nation’, it is inspired by the ethnic diversity of a multicultural society, with the designers playing on the themes of happiness, friendship, love, and collectiveness. Among the countries that serve as inspiration for the line are China, Japan, Mongolia, Mexico, Peru, India, Tibet and of course, Brazil. With designers such as Daniel Ueda, Pedro Salles, Rober Dognani, Vitor Zerbianto, and Yoon Hee Lee working alongside brands like Printing, L’Etage and Apartamento 03, Nation provides a variety of designs, styles and a play on patriotic colours. Sporting the hues of the Brazilian flag, the green, yellow, blue and white flip-flops complete any devotee’s look with style, comfort and passion. From casual flats to comfy wedges and super stylish stilettos, there is definitely something in the collection for everyone. The shoes in this season’s collection are categorized into three looks: Traveller, Guide, and Local. The versatile and comfortable Traveller shoes are perfect for ladies who are on the go. The urbanchic Guide shoes, on the other hand, are optimal for the cosmopolitan women. Last but by no means least, the stylish Local shoes are for those looking for functionality as well as sophistication. With top grade quality, comfortable flexibility and a sweet candy scent to boot, Melissa shoes are the perfect fit for one’s feet. To keep the shoes from feeling like plastic, the insides are lined with fabric for optimal comfort. These breathable, 100% recyclable and completely waterproof shoes are a perfect balance of efficiency and style. Available At: Jelly Dreams Jungceylon Phuket 1st Fl 083-096-6749 Jelly Dreams Siam Discovery Center 2nd Fl 0-265-80474 Jelly Dreams Central World 1st Fl 0-2613-1791
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APRIL 2013 | 97
SHOPPING
jj gem
traps & wana Run by Bangkok-based Japanese designer Tepei Oue (with help from a few friends), Traps & Wana’s first incarnation was in the Pratunam fashion mall, behind CentralWorld, before they moved to Suan Lum Night Bazaar. When that was bulldozed, Oue found a new home in Siam Square (Lido Theatre), before opening a second branch at JJ. Traps & Wana is a hit with hipsters for its naughty but fun designs and graphically matching T-shirts, jackets, pants, tank-tops, bags and shoes. You can also find them on the second (men’s floor) at Terminal 21, beside Asoke BTS station.
Jatujak Market Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally
T
aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, citysized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix. 98 | AUGUST 2014
> The Jatujak market of Bangkok Amber House Books | hardcover | B1,950
The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual interpretation of Bangkok’s world-famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove.
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unique boutique
O
SHOPPING
AGAIN & AGAIN
ne of the delights of vintage fashion lies in its classic and timeless design, not to mention the distinctive look you can achieve once different clothes and accessories are mixed and matched. Established in 2010, Again & Again is a lovely tiny shop located at Market Place Thonglor, home to vintage clothes, accessories and footwear both for men and women. The entire shop looks classic, painted in plain white but suffused with the vibrant colours of the clothes and accessories on display. The collections of vintage apparel are gathered from all over the world. Masiri “Amp� Tamsakul, owner and a former stylist at Marie Claire, carefully picks each unique piece during trips to the United States and other countries she visits, including Japan and Korea and a host of European countries. Again & Again has a variety of apparel and accessories which span jackets and colourful dresses to sequined tops, hats, belts and jewellery. Dressing up in vintage style is not only fun but also elegant. Items can be thrown on as daily outfits or worn for special occasions, and you can wear your favourite items as often as you wish without being old-fashioned.
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AGAIN & AGAIN [MAP 3/R8] Room B1a, Market Place Thonglor 4 | 089-486-5359 vintageagainandagain.com | Mon 11am - 8pm, Tue - Sun 11am - 9pm
AUGUST 2014 | 99
WELLN ESS
treatment yunomori
refresh
Refresh [MAP 3/n9] 43 Sukumvit Soi 24 | 02-259-7235 refresh24spa.com | 9.30am-1am | $
One of Sukhumvit’s biggest, this 25room manor of rubdown magic is located just down the road from Emporium mall – head here for a post mall-blitz recovery sesh. Instead of the exotic Thai overkill that prevails in spas here, this slick new-build has a plush neo-vintage look, with Louis XV-style furniture adorning the lobby and Victorian-style skirting boards lining the rooms and corridors. It’s different, but elegant, calming. The menu is similarly understated, dabbling mostly in unflashy rubs and scrubs, though there are packages and a selection of Jurlique and Algoane facials available. Of the offerings, the hot oil massage is our pick – this 90-minuter melds Thai, Balinese and other styles to snooze inducing effect.
lavana [map 3 / F 7] 4 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | 02-229-4510 9am-11:30pm | $$$
Lavana does its treatments right. Spa options are refreshingly clear-cut, and primarily focused on massage. Scrubs and facials are also available, along with the unusual and intriguing Shirodhara oil lavana
shin shin
treatment, in which warm oil is drizzled along the “third eye” in the forehead and massaged into the head and neck. Those seeking a tidier signature option should choose the herbal ball oil massage – Lavana’s dedicated therapists manage to pack a restful eternity into a well-priced 90 minutes. Masseuses combine long Swedish and sports-massage strokes with very detailed work on problem areas – they take computer-knotted shoulders and other ailments as a matter of personal concern, and banish those tweaks and twinges with wonderfully intense kneading and muscle release work.
Yunomori [Map 3/o9] A Square, Sukhumvit 26 | 02-259-5778 facebook.com/yunomorionsen | 10.30am12am | $$$
Yunomori isn’t an onsen (a Japanesestyle hot springs) in the strictest, most traditional sense of the word but rather the souped up inner-city version, with other facilities such as spas, restaurants and bars as well as pools to bath in. In the changing rooms, you strip off, lock away your belongings, take a deep breath and emerge, as naked as a newborn, into the baths (guys bare all,
girls can wear disposable underwear). Once happy in your birthday suit, the bath hopping begins. We counted five, from the warm soda bath featuring water infused with CO2 to the near scalding jet bath and main onsen, both of which use spring water sourced from Ranong. Once you’ve soaked until you can soak no more, head out in your slippers and explore Yunomori’s extras.
shin shin spa [MAP 3/y6] L-floor Jasmine Resort Hotel, 1511 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-335-5022 shinshinspa.com | 10am-8pm | $$
Located at the Jasmine Resort Hotel, on the same floor as the hotel pool and outdoor garden, the recently opened Shin Shin Spa offers modestly priced treatments in a clean, modern, minimally styled space. It’s not a big place by any means – there are two oil treatment rooms and a Thai massage room, and that’s it. However, Shin Shin’s size is no reflection of the quality on offer. In fact, as well as standards such as the wheatgrass welcome drink and aromatherapy foot cleansing ritual, it has a couple of aces up its sleeve that we’ve not come across before. First and foremost is the spa’s signature circular motion massage technique (Shin Shin translates as ‘vortex’ in Japanese). This is said to increase blood circulation and aid the absorption of oils into the skin. Secondly, a ‘silk essence’ lends a, well, silkiness to some of the massage treatments, including our pick: Shin Shin’s self-titled signature treatment.
Spa costs $ :: under B600 $$ :: B600-B1000 $$$ :: B1000-B2000 $$$$ :: B2000+
100 | AUGUST 2014
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treatment
WELLN ESS
YOUNG AT HEART For decades now spas have formed an integral part of the cultural landscape of Bangkok. Finding one that promises a utopian journey soaked in oil is the easy part; finding another that actually delivers on its promise takes a bit more research, as Ben Hopkins discovers.
C
HI, the award winning Spa at Shangri-La Hotel has been rejuvenating the mind, body and soul of travellers and locals alike since its inauguration in 2004, keeping alive the traditions of Asian spa while fusing them with new and exciting programmes. To mark its 10th anniversary, CHI have created “The Fountain of Youth” by the River of Kings, a unique package featuring an exclusive two-hour treatment combined with a delicious Spa Cuisine dinner set aimed at promoting health, nutrition and vitality. The two special pampering treatment options include: • “Jasmine Retreat” combining one-hour each of CHI Facial and CHI Balance to beautify the skin, improve circulation and calm the senses. Guests can relax with a full body massage using acupressure techniques, followed by a facial treatment using pure aromatic herbs and oils that promote cell renewal, repair tired skin and give a youthful glow. • “Skin Breeze” offering a combination of CHI Skin Polish and Aroma Wellness Massage. The spa experience begins with a scrub using a mineral salt and
CHI SPA
[MAP 5/B5]
Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road 02-367-777 | shangri-la.com | Open 11am – 9pm
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citrus oil blend to gently rejuvenate the skin. The mild scrub stimulates the lymphatic system, removes dry skin and encourages chi to freely flow throughout the body. Guests will feel relaxed and renewed with the Aroma Wellness Massage, a signature treatment that brings together elements of Swedish and Shiatsu Massage and Reflexology combined with the therapeutic qualities of Oriental aromatic essential oils. The treatment is designed to strengthen the body’s vital energy, so guests emerge with renewed spirit.
The Spa Cuisine dinner set is designed to boost the immune system and maintain optimal health and can be enjoyed before or after spa treatments. Using the freshest seasonal ingredients, a team of talented chefs led by Executive Chef Mathew Bennink have created a menu that features roasted beetroot, carrot, orange, arugula and ricotta salad; fresh summer Vietnamese rolls; sliced smoke salmon; chilled gazpacho; Thai style green mango and papaya salad; slow cooked chicken breast; and grilled tuna steak. --------------------------------------------------------------Available from today until 31 August 2014, each special pampering treatment costs Bt 3,500 net per person.
AUGUST 2014 | 101
getting there
BTS SKYTRAIN AT SUNSET
RAIL
Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B 39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th
SKYTRAIN (BTS)
Airport Rail Link
The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B55; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th
SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central
railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT
RIVER
EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5.30am and 6pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B3.
CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.
ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50 – B23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).
MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, bangkok101.com
A 28 km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain. One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150.
motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should be negotiated beforehand.
TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered,
air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B 35 (for the first 2 kms) and the fare climbs in B 2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B 5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added.
TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40. AUGUST 2014 | 103
Map 1 Greater Bangkok A
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Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya Map 2 >
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SIGHTSEEING a Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park
FLOATING MARKETS 1 Damnoen Saduak 2 Amphawa MUSEUMS 1 Erawan Museum 2 House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods
NIGHT BAZAAR 1 Asiatique The Riverfront NIGHTLIFE 1 Parking Toys 2 Tawandang German [free shuttle boat from Sathorn
pier everyday 4.00-11.30 pm.]
HOTELS 1 Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort and Spa
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AUGUST 2014 | 105
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We*Do Gallery
MALLS 1 Robinsons 2 Terminal 21 3 Emporium MARKETS 4 Sukhumvit
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CLUBS 1 Q Bar 3 Insomnia 10 Glow 24 Demo 26 Levels 27 Funky Villa pubs PUBS 11 The Hanrahans 12 The Pickled Liver 13 The Robin Hood bangkok101.com
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NIGHTLIFE 4 Long Table 5 Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Barsu 19 WTF 17 Alchemist 18 The ChindAsia
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EMBASSIES IN India IR Iran LK Sri Lanka PH Philippines QA Qatar UA Ukraine NO Norway NZ New Zealand BG Bulgaria
AUGUST 2014 | 107
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SIGHTSEEING a Snake Farm b MR Kukrit’s House AUGUST 2014 | 109
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M Y B A N G KO K
Peter Lamb
British-born Peter Lamb, Director of Restaurants at chic dining and bar complex KU DE TA, has worked in the hospitality industry since he was 16 years old. His experience includes running some of the busiest - and coolest - restaurants in the city of London, including Hakkasan and Zuma. Invited to work on the concepts, build, opening and management of KU DE TA, he jumped at the chance to escape his comfort zone in the UK for the unknown challenges of a career in Thailand.
How long have you been in Bangkok? What brought you here? I arrived in Bangkok at the start of September 2012. What brought me here was a Boeing 747, a lot of guts at leaving my country of birth and multiple sleeping pills! Other factors included the opportunity to live and work in one of the most exciting cities in the world, one which is culturally and temperately poles apart from country of residence. In addition a huge role in an exciting, dynamic company and all the challenges that brings sealed the deal. I haven’t looked back since arriving. How have you seen Bangkok change since your arrival? From an entertainment aspect, it has to be a shift it terms of cool spots in which to hang out. Lower Sukhumvit was ‘the hub’ when I first arrived but now it seems the cool cats hangout at various ‘in’ communities such as Ekamai, Ari and Sathorn to mention a few. They are all making moves to be serious destinations for both dining and drinking. From an F&B standpoint, I have seen a shift in what’s considered cool. Small popups, artisanal product-lead menus and organic ingredients are now sought after. Informality and counter-bar dining are also growing in popularity. In terms of nightlife, what are the trends? No cover charge has got to be the 112 | AUGUST 2014
one thing everybody is in unison on. Other trends, at least for mixology, would indicate that we’re seeing a rejuvenation of more straight forward drinking. Simple, good quality ingredients mixed sensibly with ice and classic, stylish glassware is the way forward. We’re also seeing that guests want a more intimate experience. Bangkok is in some ways a small city, and we love going to places where we know many of the other guests. This is one of the reasons why are currently renovating KU DE TA. We want to provide a cozy intimate vibe and guest experience whilst still offering multiple choices. Are people becoming more sophisticated and demanding when they go out? Yes. The more people travel and connect, the more savvy they become in terms of their knowledge and expectation of the service experience. Trends and standards in Bangkok are pretty much aligned with other leading world cities. I don’t see the difference being very large at all. What do you think makes Bangkok such an exciting city? What do you like about it? It’s the blend of history, modern amenities, the rich fascinating culture, convenient location for travel, exotic and delicious cuisines, and a proud and passionate people. Fused together, these factors make life here vibrant and thrilling. Every day I learn
and experience something new! What’s not to like about that? Where you like to go out for a drink? It depends on my mood and the occasion. For a rooftop cocktail experience I like to head to Speakeasy at Muse Hotel. Near home I hop, skip and jump across to the bar with what I consider to be the best drinks list in town, Namsaah Bottling Trust. For a boys night out it has to be Oskar on Soi 11, which is consistently good and lively. Favorite places for a meal? I like Zanotti on Soi Sala Daeng, Soul Food on Soi Thong Lor, Appia on Sukhumvit 31, Baan Ice on Soi Thonglor, and Opus on Silom Soi Pan. Saying that, there are plenty of street food places where I love to sit outside, drink beer and take in the sights, sounds, smells and spices of this stunning city. Where do you take visitors for a quintessential Bangkok experience? To capture the spiritual side of the city it would be a trip to Wat Arun. For seclusion, beautiful grounds and famous Thai hospitality, I’d head to Siam Hotel in the Dusit area by the river. For a luxurious cinema experience that surprises and outdoes all others, I’d choose Enigma at Siam Paragon. And there is always Sukhumvit Road for the pure hustle and bustle of inner city life. bangkok101.com