Bangkok101 Magazine December 2013 by Talisman Media

170+1.5 mm

6.25 inch

170+1.5 mm

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Province Border

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River Ferry

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Payap Wat Thepnahree

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Wat Maichonglom

Bandon Mosque

hai

5 oi 5 hum

S ilom

Krung Thon Buri

Sathorn

orn 5–S

Saphan Taksin

S at h

Benjasiri Park

Sala Daeng

Chong Nonsi

Surasak

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T / SA

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S oi 6

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or –

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Victory Monument

Phan Fa Lilat

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Bumrung Muang

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29 Queen Sirkit Park

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san 6 mm 6.25 inch

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| CITY PULSE

Angels of the Ring | TRAVEL

Bhutan | SHOPPING

Painkiller

*.-.68.&!TUNO

final cover_rev.indd 2

11/18/13 4:19 PM

170+1.5 mm

6.25 inch

170+1.5 mm

san 6 mm A

Province Border

Bang Po

River Ferry

a Chu

Prach a Rat Sai 2

Dir Domection est Don ic A irp Muen ort g

Wat Soi Thong

Phahon Yothin

Kru ng the p-N

december 2013 100 baht

Rama VII Bridge

P ra c h

on tha bu ri

25 Pilbul 1

Suan Wachira Benchathat t

2 Jatujak Park

Lat Phrao

a ! "#$!%&'(!

Payap Wat Thepnahree

et D Ram

t an

gsi

k halo

ank

v ad

S aw

ha Vip

w ay re s s E xp

Phetchaburi

Nana Nua

Pratunam

Wireless

Italthai

Nana Chard

Wat Maichonglom

Bandon Mosque

hai

5 oi 5 hum

S ilom

Krung Thon Buri

Sathorn

orn 5–S

Saphan Taksin

S at h

Benjasiri Park

Sala Daeng

Chong Nonsi

Surasak

M ILO

T / SA

Lumphini 9 10

S oi 6

S uk

umvit

Benjakiti Park

or –

m ai –

vit

Ekka

Wat Muang Khae

wo n

NIGHTLIFE

Sukhumvit Asok

Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Thong Lo

Khlong Toei

3– Ram

a IV

D BT irect S S ion tat ion

Ekkamai

! +#5!K0,1(4!C#,#*! ! K0#1!3#(!71#*! 3 ! C0.<.$! 4 ! 7#$-0#*#!H:40$!/#&5.$! 5 ! C#,#$!71$!L#:! 6 ! M#$'G#5!"..5.(*!/#&5.$

a b u ri

vit S

Lumpini Park

S ur a

ng L

Si Lom

Nana

Witt ha

Su an

Son

H enri D

un ant

Ph ay a T

Ratchadamri

LO M

Sam Yan

Pe tc h

MARKETS 2

Klongton Bridge

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Phrom Phong

r ay a

essw

Charn Issara

Phloen Chit

/ CH IT

E xpr

Direction Internat Suvanabhum ional A i irport

Asoke/Phetchaburi

Prasanmit

Thong

Sri Ph

t ate

Suk h

es sw ay

4 – SI A M

Oriental

final cover_rev.indd 1

w ay

Marine Dept.

Si Phraya

Wongwian Yai

2 nd S

Chit Lom

Hua Lamphong

Ram a IX

pre s s

Siam

Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station

gW at

Wongwian Yai Railway

it / E x

National Stadium

Ba nt hat

ur at h

Tho

Chit Lom

Soi To n

Phra Rama 9

C h at

Makasan

Soi La ng

2 nd State Ex pr

Ya ow a

Rajchawongse

6–

Krung Kasem

Ch ak ra Ph et Ch akk raw

aro

Son

Phaya Thai

Ratchapraprop

Baan Krua Nua Sapan Hua Chang

6 N

ak Maha

Chai

Wora ch

g Ti Thon et.

Tri Ph N

Memorial Bridge

habu

ssw

i ata Thip

cha

Pra Dinso

Rachinee Atsadang

ai Sanam Ch

Cha kph 1 et

Ratchathewi

hit

Pe t c

Sapan Charoenpol

ri C

Rajinee

Phaya Thai

Talad Bobae

Thailand Cultural Centre

t 1s S t a t e E x pre

en ms Sa

ng ho aP kr

Ratcha Damno en Nai

9 Victory Monument

Lan Luang

ARTS & CULTURE 8

Victory Monument

Phan Fa Lilat

Huai Khwang

Sanan Pao

Bumrung Muang

Charoen Krung Phra Phi Phit

ay a

Royal Turf Club

Mait

d 5

wit

at har Ma

Tha Tien 1

i Wa

Tha

Ari

j Klang 6

t th

g Kru

noen

Ay u

Grand Palace b

Chitralada Palace

Sri

Kh 2 2 aos an Ratch4 a Dam

Kalayana Ma

ELEPHANTS meet the stars of the show in the golden triangle

itri

Tha Chang

THE

it s

AMONG

asa

1 Wang Lang

isu

Thonburi Railway

Phra Atith e

Sutthisan

S t at

4 o

2 nd

cha

Dusit Zoo

it N13 At ra Ph

hra

ir i

R at

Thewej

Phra Pin Klao Bridge

ais

oth

Rama VIII Bridge

Suk

7 – OLDTOWN

Pradiph

Krung Thon Bridge

Saphan Khwai

Sutthisan

! "#$!/#0#$0#$!

Kamphaeng Phet

Tho

Tet c Kheaw Khai ka

Irrigation N19 Dept.

Ratchadapisek

d ! "#$!+01! f

t han

Tha

Wa ni

Airport Rail Link

Mo Chit

Bang Sue

Kjak Kai

Railway

amr

MRT Subway Line

Thonburi Railway

Chatuchak Park

BTS Sukhumvit Line

SIGHTSEEING b ! )&#(*!+#,#-.!

BTS Silom Line

Bangkok

29 Queen Sirkit Park

Canal Boat

MAP 8

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11/18/13 4:18 PM

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5:27 PM

publisher’s letter

lephants are one of the great icons of Thailand and, thanks to our friends at Anantara Golden Triangle Resort, we’ve had a chance to get up close and personal. Not only were they the subject of this month’s travel feature within Thailand, we’ve also brought you a photo feature on our pachyderm companions. We’ve still managed to find the time to be well-fed, taking in delicious meals at D’Sens, Rang Mahal, Shang Palace, Breizh Crepes and Scalini. After hours, we also checked out a new arrival on Bangkok’s rooftop bar scene in Walk and kicked up our heels at Levels. The eating and drinking didn’t stop there. We also geared up for the festive season – which we’re most certainly looking forward to – by helping ourselves to a Thai-style Christmas dinner. After all that, we felt even more exhausted when we checked out the ladies of muaythai – the growth of women’s martial arts is one of the many changes affecting the sport these days. And don’t miss our interview with Philip Cornwel-Smith, author of the brilliant Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture, now available in its second edition. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks is all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talisman-media.com.

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

b a ngkok 101 Pa r t n e r s

bangkok101.com

001-007_contents.indd 5

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001-007_contents.indd 6

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Contributors

publisher

Mason Florence editor-in-chief

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher

Parinya Krit-Hat editor

Tom Sturrock group editor

Bangkok-born but internationally bred, Dr Tom Vitayakul has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.

Award-winning writer joe cummings was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.

Food and travel writer howard richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ , the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.

Joe Cummings editorial assistant

Pawika Jansamakao art director

Narong Srisaiya graphic designer

Watcharee Sadubsoi

strategists

Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers

Gaby Doman, Urasa Por Burapacheep, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwel-Smith contributing photographers

Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director business development

Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon British-born writer-artist steven pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.

Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, korakot (nym) punlopruksa believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .

Very Thai author philip cornwel-smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.

director sales and marketing

Nowfel Ait Ouyahia

partnership development manager

Willem Deenik projects director

Wasin Banjerdtanakul circulation

Pradchya Kanmanee published by

AVAILABLE AT:

bangkok101.com

001-007_contents.indd 7

No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them. december 2013 | 7

12/2/13 2:28 PM

CONTENTS xx 22

xx 40

city pulse

a r t & c u lt u r e

10 metro beat

48 exhibition highlights

96 new collection:

14 up in lights

52 interview:

painkiller

16 hot plates: d’sens

andrew west

98 jj gem: somnuk lamp

18 out and about:

55 cheat notes

99 unique boutique:

christmas goes thai

56 photo feature:

apostrophe’S

22 best of bangkok:

at home with gentle

angels in the ring

giants

s n a p s h ot s

food & drink

26 tom’s two satang

62 food & drink news

28 very thai

64 meal deals

29 chronicle of thailand

65 restaurant reviews:

30 historic homes,

rang mahal, scalini,

shrines and temples

breizh crepes, shang

32 museums

palace

shopping

72 in the kitchen:

t r av e l

jonathan maza

wellness

34 up country now

73 eat like nym

101 spa review: le spa

38 hotel review:

74 restaurant listings

reference

banyan tree bangkok 40 up country escape:

nightlife

102 getting there

golden triangle

82 nightlife news

104 maps

44 over the border:

84 review: walk, levels

112 my bangkok:

bhutan

86 nightlife listings

philip cornwel-smith

170+1.5 mm

6.25 inch

170+1.5 mm

san 6 mm A

Chuen

Pracha Rat Sai 2

Province Border

Bang Po

River Ferry

Phahon Yothin

Krungthep-N

Wat Soi Thong

Pracha

december 2013 100 baht

Rama VII Bridge

Dire Dom ction esti Don c Airp Mu ort eng

onthaburi

25 Pilbul 1

Suan Wachira Benchathat t

2 Jatujak Park

Lat Phrao

nit

Pradiph

cha Tet

ng Vip ay sw res t 1s S t a t e E x p

Nana Nua

Pratunam

Phetchaburi

Asoke/Phetchaburi

Wireless

Italthai

Nana Chard

Wat Maichonglom

Sura N

won

Silom

Surasak

SAT

HOR

55 t Soi

5 Soi 63

– Sukh

umvi

Lumphini 9 10

vit

Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

3– Ram

a IV

Ekkamai

Pak Khlong Talad Khao San Road Thewet Ratchada Night Market Talat Rot Fai Jatujak Weekend Market

Amorosa The Club Phranakorn Bar Brick Bar Adhere The 13th Rolling Bar Pullman Raintree Pub Saxophone Pub Wongs Place Route 66 Cosmic Cafe

HOTELS

11 12

Dir BT ect S Sta ion tio n Be

7 8 9

Thong Lo

Khlong Toei

3 4

g Lor Thon

orn 5 – SILO

Saphan Taksin

Sala Daeng

Chong Nonsi

Sath

Oriental

Sathorn

Benjasiri Park

mvit

Son

Benjakiti Park

ai – Sukhu

Si Phraya

Wat Muang Khae

Krung Thon Buri

NIGHTLIFE

Sukhumvit Asok

3 4

aburi

Nana

Witthayu

Soi Ton

Soi Lang

Suan

Ratchadamri

Lumpini Park

Si Lom

Petch

Klongton Bridge

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

LOM

Sam Yan

1 2

Charn Issara

Phloen Chit

/ CHIT

Phrom Phong

MARKETS

way

6 Bandon Mosque

Prasanmit

ress

Ekkam

Sri Phray

e Exp

Directio n Internat Suvanabhumi ional Airport

Marine Dept.

Wongwian Yai

sit

V ma

halo

y resswa Exp Stat 4 – SIAM

Hua Lamphong

2 nd Stat

Makasan

Thong

Krung Kasem

Wongwian Yai Railway

Rama IX

essw

Chit Lom

Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station

g Wa

it / Expr

Siam

Siriraj Medical Museum Royal Barges Museum National Museum National Theatre Museum of Siam Rattanakosin Exhibiton Hall Numthong Gallery Aksra Theatre Goethe Institut Galerie N Bangkok Doll Museum Siam Niramit

urath

National Stadium

Banthat

rat

2 nd State Expressway

Yao wa

Son

Phra Rama 9

Chat

Chit Lom

Henri Dunant

3 5

8 9

Ratchapraprop

Baan Krua Nua Sapan Hua Chang

ung

Rajchawongse

2 nd

sen Sam

ha Thip atai

6–

Phaya Thai

hab uri

Phaya Thai

g on Ph

akk ra

Memorial Bridge

Phaya Thai

hak

1 2

Thailand Cultural Centre

8 8

aro

Victory Monument

Ratchathewi

Wat Arun Grand Palace Wat Mahathat Wat Pho Wat Chana Songkhram Wat Ratchabophit Wat Bowornniwet Viharn Wat Suthat & Giant Swing Democracy Monument Wat Ratchanatda Wat Saket Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium Vimanmek Mansion Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall Wat Benchamabophit Suan Pakkad Palace Bangkok Butterfly Garden Lumpini Boxing Stadium Phaya Thai Palace

ARTS & CULTURE

9 Victory Monument

Petc

Worac

Damno en Nai

Dinso

Chak phet

Huai Khwang

Sapan Charoenpol

Ch akr a Phe t Ch akk raw

Rajinee

Talad Bobae

ri Chit

Tri Phet.

Phra Phi Phit

Ari

Sanan Pao

Lan Luang

Chai

Ti Thong

Sanam Chai

Phan Fa Lilat

hay

Bumrung Muang

Mait

j Klang 6

Maha

Ratcha

Rachinee Atsadang

sem

Charoen Krung

Wang

d 5

wit

Royal Turf Club

g Ka

Thai

Prac

Damno

g Krun

Kas

a Sum

cha

Chitralada Palace

Ay utt

Tha Tien 1

Phr

Kha2 2 osan Ratcha 4

Kalayana Maitri

Grand Palace b

final cover_rev.indd 1

sut

meet the stars of the show in the golden triangle

Phra Atith e

Tha Chang

THE

ELEPHANTS

13 Ati a Phr

t ara Mah

AMONG

Rat

Sri

Thonburi Railway 1 Wang Lang

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Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line

on the cover We spent some time at Anantara Golden Triangle Resort, getting to know the elephants and the mahouts. Check out p56

MAP 8

Pullman King Power

ari

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metro beat

by Howard Richardson

ROCK & POP

Man Overboard American pop punk band Man Overboard are at the Rock Pub (Hollywood Street Building, Phaya Thai Rd, 081-666-4359, therockpub-bangkok.com) on December 18. The guitar-based five-piece, influenced by the likes of Blink-182, are touring their new album Heart Attack, featuring tracks such as White Lies, Open Season and Where I Left You. Advance tickets are B990, available at the Rock Pub, online and at Amp Clothing (F2 Terminal 21). The door price is B1200. Apichai ‘Lek’ Trakulpadejkrai, actor/singer and head of the indie label Smallroom Records, brings his Greasy Café folkyrock project to Charan Burapharat Sport Stadium (Phet Uthai Rd, Huay Khwang) on December 1. Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com) have tickets priced B1000. Romantic crooner Engelbert Humperdinck, a chart topper in the Sixties with Quando Quando Quando, Please Release Me and Apichai Trakulpadejkrai The Last Waltz, saw his track Lesbian Seagull go platinum three decades later when it was released as the theme song for the film Beavis and Butthead Do America. He’s at the Bangkok Convention Centre (Central Plaza, Ladprao, 1695 Phahonyothin Rd, 02-541-1234) on December 2. Tickets cost B2500-B4500 at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). 10 | DECEMBER 2013

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Engelbert Humperdinck Ganja T-shirts and dreadheads will be out for the The Reggae Ska Concert at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 02-247-0028) on December 10. Banging through the Marley and old Trojan classics will be bands like Mocca Garden, Teddy Ska Band and The Superglasses Ska Ensemble. It’s a 5pm start, with tickets at B499 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, thaiticketmajor.com). US band Krewella and the UK’s Hadouken check in for the electronic dance festival Shark Now Or Never: The First Bite at Thunder Dome (Impact Arena, 99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) on December 11. Krewella come on the back of their new album Get Wet; Hadouken recently released Every Weekend. Back-up comes from Maskara, Boom Boom Cash and Machina, from Thailand’s LazerFace stable, plus a host of DJs, including Madmax, Bamboo and Secret Weapon. It’s B1200 to get in. Tickets from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). If seven hours of thrashing guitars floats your boat get down to Rock In The City at Helipad BITEC (km1, 88 Bangna-Trad Rd, 02-749-3939, bitec.co.th), where the likes of Big Ass, Paradox, Ebola, Pang Nakarin and Klear will practise their feedback. Twelve bands for B800 sounds like a good deal. The gig is on December 14 at 3pm; tickets are with Thai Ticketmajor (02262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). Boyd Kosiyapong leads “an army of favourite artists” into the BoydKo Family Christmas Together Concert at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) on December 28. Among the 20-odd names appearing are Nop Pornchamni, Palmy, ETC and Scrubb. Apparently, anyone with hair styled like Boyd’s will be “treated special by our team”. You’ve been warned. Tickets are B1000-B3000 at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com).

Krewella bangkok101.com

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SPORT

Race of Champions Seven-time F1 World Champion Michael Schumacher, ninetime Le Mans winner Tom Kristensen and newly crowned World Rally Champion Sébastien Ogier will be on the grid for the Red Bull Singha Race of Champions at Rajamangala Stadium (2088 Ramkhamhaeng Rd, 02-318-0940-4) on December 14-15. The event sees some of the world’s top motorsport drivers in various disciplines, including Formula One, World Rally, MotoGP, Nascar, IndyCar and the X-Games, compete while driving the same class of car. Day one is dedicated to team events, featuring drivers from countries such as Thailand, the UK, Australia, Germany and the US. The following day is the individual Race of Champions. Satellite activities over the weekend involve concerts, stunt shows, motocross acrobatics and, of course, cheerleaders. The shows start at 6.30pm, the races at 8pm. Tickets racing out of Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com) cost B300-B3000. A two-day pass goes for B7500, which sounds expensive until you factor in a free snack box and soft drinks.

World Muay Thai Angels

Women kick boxers fight the finals rounds of the WMA World Muay Thai Angels at Central Plaza Chaengwattana (99/99 MOO 2 Tambol Bangtalad, Pakkred, 02-831-5555, central. co.th) on December 25. See facebook.com/worldmuaythaicouncil. See our feature on page 22.

FOOD AND DRINK If Bangkok’s restaurant scene is too fast-moving for you to keep track of, check out this useful Bangkok’s 100 Best Restaurants app. You can search by price and cuisine, read other reviews and access maps for when you get lost. It’s amazingly handy and costs 99c through Apple. bangkok101.com

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A concert to celebrate HM the King’s 86th birthday, Jazz in the Theatre sees pianist John di Martino perform the King’s compositions at Aksra Theatre (8/1 Soi Rangnam, 02-677-8888, aksratheatre.com) on December 4. Also on the bill, touted as ‘The Blonde Jazz Diva’, is Simone Kopmajer, promoting her new album. The show starts at 8pm; tickets are B1500-B2000 from Thai Ticketmajor. DECEMBER 2013 | 11

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Khon Kumphakan

DANCE & THEATRE Global dance companies continue their performances in The International Dance Festival 2013: The Road to Asean at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (939 Rama I Rd, 02-2146632, bacc.or.th) until December 5. The day starts at 11am on December 1, with workshops and young talent shows, before a 7pm production of Timeless by the Aditi Mangaldas Dance Company, from India. December 4 and 5 features a double bill of Tightrope Walker and Genesha by Thailand’s 18 Monkeys Dance Theatre, at 7pm. Tickets are B600-B1800 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). Khon Kumphakan, at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 02-247-0028) until December 9, relates one of the episodes from the classical epic The Ramakien. It follows the adventures of Kumphakan, the king of the giants and

CLASSICAL

brother of Tosakan, king of the demons. There will be morning, matinee and evening performances, with English subtitles. Tickets are B420-B1520 at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). B-Floor Theatre brings a cast of all female artists from around the world, including Japan, France and Korea, for Butoh Women: the 8th International Butoh Festival at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (939 Rama I Rd, 02-214-6632, bacc.or.th) from December 13-15. The organisers say: “This is an art of the individual, where each builds their own sword and dances with it to a self-written sword melody [...] it’s the dance of darkness.” The festival also includes an exhibition of photography, video, and installation inspired by Butoh, plus dance workshops by Yuko Kawamoto, Sylvie Bruzeau and Bo Kittiphon from December 6-8. Workshops are B1000 apiece, performances are B500-B650. See bfloortheatre.com for details.

The Flying Dutchman

The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra gives a Royal Celebration Concert at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 02-247-0028) on December 12, led by Dutch conductor Peter Biloen. The featured soloist is Taiwanese-American pianist Weiyin Chen in a programme of three pieces: Mendelssohn’s Hebrides, Op. 26 (‘Fingal’s Cave’); Grieg’s Piano Concerto Op.16 in A minor; and Brahms’ Symphony No. 2 Op.73 in D major. Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com) have tickets from B300-B1500. For its new production, The Flying Dutchman, the latest in the ongoing series of Wagner’s Ring Cycle, Opera Siam brings international singers Arnold Bezuyen and Martin Snell, both previous performers at the Bayreuth Festival. Wagner’s shortest opera, a ghost story, Dutchman relates the tale of a man doomed to wander the seas eternally unless he finds the love of a pure woman. Director Somtow Sucharitkul, continuing his 12 | DECEMBER 2013

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Asian theme to the Ring Cycle, has set the action among the impoverished fishing villages in the Straits of Malacca. Somtow also conducts the Siam Philharmonic Orchestra. The performance is at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 02-247-0028) on December 15, with tickets priced B500B3000 (or B5000 if you want refreshments and a glass of wine thrown in at the interval). All are available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). bangkok101.com

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up in lights DJ Angie Vu Ha Velvet

Opening party Ku De Ta

In Bed with Space Q Bar and Bash

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up in lights

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Wine List of the Year Aloft

The Magazine Party Grand Hyatt

Keep up-to-date with all the latest events and nightlife action with Last Night In Bangkok. See facebook.com/ lastnightinbangkok. All photos by David Heischrek.

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hot plates

D’Sens by Howard Richardson

he merry-go-round of Bangkok chefs gains pace with the news that Wilfrid Hocquet has taken the hot seat at D’Sens, the city’s branch of the Pourcel brothers’ Michelin-starred restaurant in Montpellier, France. Wilfrid, who was at Quince briefly this year, has worked with many high-profile names, including Daniel Boulud, in New York and a stint as executive chef at Alain Ducasse’s Benoit. If the four-course sneak preview of his new menu is any indication, Bangkok is in for something special. We open with cured hamachi fillet, served as a wide smear in shades of purple across the plate, highlighted by beetroot, blueberry, blackcurrant, marinated in the juices of blueberry and beetroot. It’s fresh and light, with very subtle flavours – slightly sharp, just a touch of salt, so the earthy beetroot takes centre stage. It’s a delightful, quiet opener that introduces an unusual theme of root vegetables as the star of the show. In the risotto, the individual grains are perfectly separated, with great bite, and covered with creamy white foam. Fresh white truffle grated over the top at tableside helps perform the impressive trick of a dish being at once rich but still light. In the main course, an exquisitely prepared, high-quality lamb rack chop is rivalled by a 4cm block of slow-cooked turnip mounted with a Moroccan-inspired relish containing ginger, sultanas, chilli, cured lemon and hazelnuts. The juice of the parsnip hitting the mouth is a revelation against the sweet, spicy flavours of the sauce. It’s one of my favourite taste combinations of the year, sitting well with a glass of the Dusit’s own label, Domaine St George – a big, open, California-friendly cabernet sauvignon. The wine is on a very long list that’s heavily French, running up to a Chateau Margaux at sixty grand a bottle, but with plenty of other regions represented. There are 11 choices by the glass, from B160, including sparklers and one dessert. Wilfrid says the new a la carte prices will remain in the range of B350-750 for appetisers, B1300-1800 for mains, plus special lunch and tasting menus. To finish, there’s a more-ish dessert of a kind of deconstructed banoffee pie – banana cooked sous vide with rum, served with toffee, banana espuma and banana ice cream on the side. D’Sens is perfectly placed for transport and has great views. The only pitfall is the odd, narrow shape, decorated in safe, neutral tones, with details that are all a bit too boxy. It’s not that exciting to sit in, but with food like this, who cares? We didn’t get to see much of Wilfrid Hocquet at Quince, but he’s a top-class chef who could have a big impact on the Bangkok dining scene.

d’sens

[MAP 8/k16]

Dusit Thani Hotel, 946 Rama IV Rd | 02-236-9999 dusit.com | Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm

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christmas dinner

goes thai

Christmas dinner just got more exciting – it turns out you don’t have to turn your back on delicious Thai food and revert back to familiar Western standards.

BY TOM STURROCK

hristmas is just around the corner and, for the thousands of expats living in Thailand, there are tons of places to find a traditional western Yuletide feast – the turkey with all the trimmings, the roast spuds, the honey-glazed ham. But those who decided to move to Bangkok partly because of the vibrant Thai food, Christmas doesn’t need to be a time to pivot back to familiar fare. Indeed, it’s entirely possible to adapt the Christmas staples according to the ingredients and flavour profiles that dominate the Thai table. Jason Bailey (left), chef-owner of Paste, is one of the standard-bearers for innovative, upscale Thai food, delivering bold new combinations that bring out the best in Thai food while remaining faithful to its core principles. He has accepted the challenge of delivering Christmas dinner, Thai-style. “When we’re tweaking it, we’re not doing a fusion,” he insists. “We’re not adding in western sauces. That’s where it can go horribly wrong. The meat needs to be respected and you need to contain the moisture. Also, it’s Christmas Day and you need fat on Christmas Day. Fat is flavour.” Bailey has planned three courses – enough to ensure the desired Boxing Day ‘food hangover’. Instead of a

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out & about smoked salmon starter – perhaps enjoyed as a brunch with a glass of champagne – Bailey prepares a salmon salad, pan-fried with galangal (below), which is rarely used this way. “We cut the salmon for consistent thickness,” he explains. “And the key is, when you pan fry it, put it skinside-down and put it in only once the pan is really hot, although you don’t want the salmon to go above 45 degrees internally – it will release its juices and dry out. “Where people mess up is they turn it too soon. You want to do that right at the end, just to kiss the other side and firm it up.” Plated up, the salmon has that exquisitely crispy skin while the galangal gives it an unexpected tang – a perfect starter. Bailey’s commitment to remaining anchored in Thai food extends beyond mere concept – he’s also a firm believer in local produce. “It’s good salmon, sustainably farmed,” he says. “Some people want to import things from halfway around the world but there’s just no need. There are a lot of things you don’t need to import if you just put a bit of thought into it. Remember that if something’s imported, it may also have been gassed to slow-ripen it.” For the second course, Bailey offers a spin on the Christmas ham, serving up a gourmet pork hock (right), which can be found throughout Bangkok as a street stall favourite known as khao kha moo. “I’ve shaved it off to serve it like a glazed ham,” Bailey says. “For a masterstock, I’ve used light and dark soys, some pork stock, cinnamon, star anise and yellow rock sugar. There’s also some Chinese wine, cloves and dried tangerine peel.” This one takes some extra preparation – the hock has been slow-cooked for three hours the day before, then pressed into shape, before being refrigerated for six hours or, even better, overnight. “On the day you want to eat it, sit it in the masterstock, braise it for 20 minutes – just shallow fry it, a bit like bacon,” Bailey says. “The glaze should be caramel – serve it with pickled yellow bamboo shoots and pomelo. It should taste sweet, citrus and salty.” Then, finally, the main course. Christmas just isn’t the same without a big fat game bird to take centre stage. And, in keeping with the Thai theme, Bailey has replaced turkey with goose (main image). “Goose is everything for Christmas and it’s traditionally a Chinese staple,” he says. “I’ve pricked the skin and rubbed it with sea salt – sea salt is the king. “And the kind you get from Samut Songkhram, it’s more briney – it’s quite unique. It sounds stupid but good salt shouldn’t actually taste too salty – it should really just sharpen or intensify the other flavours. “To really set the goose off, you want to use a northern pepper – it’s called makhwaen; technically it’s a berry, not even the same family as pepper. It’s a bit like Szechuan pepper – citrusy and although it numbs the mouth, it makes it more sensitised at the same time. That’s why the Yannan and the Szechuan love it – it sharpens the palate to all other flavours.” bangkok101.com

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Again, it’s all about planning ahead. The goose needs to be left for eight hours, allowing the skin to draw in the flavours. It’s then stuffed with lime and steamed for about two hours; longer for bigger geese. “You then need to fry it in clean oil for about four minutes, with the whole thing submersed, preferably in peanut oil,” Bailey says. “Then drizzle it in fish sauce, white sugar, castor sugar, lime juice and orange.” Turning Thai food into a Christmas feast might be a disaster waiting to happen for less skilled cooks but Bailey insists that, with a few well-judged substitutions, the adaptation isn’t as tricky as it sounds. “For example, we use palm sugar instead of honey – it’s not as sweet and is more earthy,” he says. “And then we add a citrus element – lime or tamarind. In the pork hock we use the hoisin as a salt element. And I use cinnamon because it’s awesome – who doesn’t like cinnamon? “You’ve got to form a base in your mind so you don’t bastardise it,” he says. “A lot of Christmas food, sugar leads the charge but Thai food has more harmony between sweet, salty and sour. But we still want to produce that feeling of what Christmas is all about – that’s fat, sugar and, to a degree, excess. It should recall that but, at the same time, we’re living in Asia.”

paste

[MAP 3/p6]

120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 02-392-4313 pastebangkok.com | 6pm-late, Wed-Sun noon-2.30pm

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out & about christmas and new year promotions

Atelier & Tapas Y Vino, Grand Millennium Sukhumvit On Christmas Day, Atelier & Tapas Y Vino will prepare a tasty brunch buffet including whole duck galantine with pistachio, black truffle and black olive oil with a brandy shrimp avocado cocktail. Holiday Inn Bangkok (Ploenchit Rd) Enjoy the Thai buffet with many festive dishes such as grilled chicken, som tam, spicy chicken salad and fish maw soup. Available from 6pm-10.30pm on December 24-25 and 31 for B999. Novotel Bangkok Platinum Pratunam Enjoy the traditional Christmas lunch buffet for B449 with roast turkey with chestnut stuffing and cranberry sauce. There’s also a New Year’s Eve buffet for B2014 with a bumper selection of the finest cuts of meat. Eastin Grand Sathorn Hotel Bangkok The Glass House New Year’s Eve Dinner Buffet is available from 7pm to 11pm for B2014, including freeflow soft drinks or B2557 including free-flow soft drinks and selected wines. Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers The Italian set dinner at Giorgio is only B2000 on Christmas Eve. On the same night, Feast offers a vast array of special Christmas Eve International and BBQ buffet dinner at B2300. Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok Celebrate this festive season with the finest delicacies and wines while enjoying the traditional Christmas Eve buffet (B1350 or B1650 with free-flow wine and sparkling wine) at Chatuchak Café from 6.30pm. Intercontinental Bangkok Enjoy the traditional festive buffet dinner at Espresso for

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B2199 on Christmas Eve and B1869 on Christmas Day. Later, enjoy true Italian fare and refreshing cocktails at Terrazza – open at 8pm with great music. Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square Celebrate a delectable array of international food at The Square. Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve Dinner are offered for only B1600 while Christmas Day Brunch and New Year’s Day Brunch are B1300. So Bangkok The Festive Programme will be spread over four days from 6pm-11pm. On Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, enjoy your buffet dinner at Red Oven for B2300 or go to Park Society for a five-course set menu dinner (B4800). Banyan Tree Bangkok On December 24-25, there’s a five-course set dinner (B4700) in Vertigo’s award-winning signature style, while an all-you-can-eat dim sum lunch (B1355) is offered at Bai Yun. Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Christmas Eve Dinner (B1199) and Christmas Day Lunch Buffet (B999) are offered at Panorama restaurant – feast on the oyster bar, seafood selection, saltbush lamb, and turkey to name a few. The Sukhothai Bangkok Begin this Christmas Eve with a festive buffet dinner (B2900) at Colonnade or five-course dinner (B3900) at La Scala. Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Make your Christmas special at Voilà. Get together with family and friends and savour the delicious Christmas Eve dinner buffet. L’Appart’s Christmas Eve dinner (B3500) will include a five-course set menu.

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angels in the ring The rise of women’s muaythai is just the latest in a series of developments that are changing the face of Thailand’s increasingly popular martial art.

ngular, interval-leaping melodies from a lone wood-and-brass Javanese oboe echo from the high-domed stadium walls, conjuring up images of a snake-charming John Coltrane. The metallic ring of tiny finger cymbals punctuates a steady hand-drum tattoo, as all eyes turn and fix themselves on the brightly lit, triplecordoned square enclosure perched altar-like at stadium centre. But hang on, are those two women squaring off with hunched shoulders? The men have taken centre stage for ages, hitting especially high profiles recently with such highly rated TV series as Emmy-nominated The Challenger Muaythai. Even the Dalai Lama recently gave his blessings to muaythai when the International Federation of Muaythai Amateurs (IFMA) presented the Buddhist leader with a 22 | DECEMBER 2013

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BY JOE CUMMINGS

mongkhon – the braided headband worn by muaythai fighters when first entering the ring – which His Holiness in turn placed upon the head of Mexico’s Elisa Salinas, Latin America’s ‘Queen of Reality TV’. Salinas herself travelled to Thailand in 2012 for intensive training in the ancient Siamese martial art, providing a very high-profile role model for aspiring female fighters everywhere. Recently the World Muaythai Council (WMC) organised a women-only tournament known as World Muaythai Angels in Bangkok. During the tournament, held between October and December, 16 girls from 15 countries have been facing each other toe-to-toe at three different locations in Bangkok. The first qualifying round saw intense competition bangkok101.com

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between Thai and Polish champs, among others, at Bangkok Convention Center in October. The second round took place last month at CentralPlaza Chaengwattana. As at the first, the arena was packed with muaythai fans from all over the world. Each fight in the tournament features three rounds of two minutes each, with a twominute break between rounds. The finals will be held on December 25 at CentralWorld. Stephan Fox, IFMA General Secretary and WMC vice-president, and on-camera host of The Challenger Muaythai, says the Muaythai Angels represents “a new area for muaythai, and it is important to take the girls to the centre as they have truly earned their spot and it will show that the sport is truly for everybody”. The gender ratio at international championships nowadays tends to be 70-30 percent male-female, with female participation growing steadily. The Thai word muay translates loosely into English as ‘boxing’ or ‘martial art’ but the term actually derives from Sanskrit mavya, meaning ‘bind’: a reference to the binding bangkok101.com

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of the fists with hemp – replaced by padded boxing gloves – as well as the ceremonial binding of the head and arm. Thailand’s ancient martial art is arguably one of the kingdom’s most striking national icons. Overflowing with colour and ceremony as well as exhilarating moments of clenched-teeth action, the best matches serve up a blend of such skill and tenacity that one is tempted to view the spectacle as emblematic of Thailand’s centuries-old devotion to independence in a region where most other countries fell under the European colonial yoke. Yet the world of muaythai is undergoing significant transformation today, changes that have as much to do with international interest in the art as it does with changing fashion in Thailand. Samart Payakaroon, muaythai’s biggest superstar, started training in his native Chachoengsao when he was 11 years old. By the time he was 16, the highly gifted fighter entered Lumpini Boxing Stadium, Bangkok’s most important professional muaythai venue. He soon became well-known for exemplary form and finesse, combined DECEMBER 2013 | 23

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with intelligent ring planning and ferocious punches. Between 1980 and 1981, Samart won four national championships in four weight classes. After clocking 150 muaythai and international boxing matches – and winning 90 percent of them – Samart launched Poptheeratham Gym, a muaythai training facility in the northern outskirts of Bangkok near the Royal Thai Air Force base in Sai Mai. With his extensive experience both inside the ring as a fighter and in the gym as a trainer, Samart speaks authoritatively about the direction muaythai is heading. “On the professional side, muaythai is losing ground among the Thais nowadays,” he says without a hint of regret. “Younger Thais aren’t so interested in preserving the art and they’ve discovered other martial arts, like taekwondo. “On the other hand, we see a lot of interest coming from outside Thailand. I’d say about 70 percent of people competing in muaythai rings these days are foreigners.” Fox says the martial art is expanding steadily worldwide, including in Thailand, but that growth is taking place in the amateur, rather than the professional, sphere. In the amateur world, fitness training and the general health benefits of muaythai occupy centre stage. Thailand’s IMFA serves as a standard-bearer for national muaythai federations in countries all over the world, organising international competitions and ceaselessly promoting the martial art. Fox, who hails from Germany and fought in muaythai rings professionally for many years, says the sport has expanded well beyond its origins in Thailand. 24 | DECEMBER 2013

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“Muaythai is huge in Europe, North America, Central Asia, Russia and Australia,” he says. “In fact there are 80 countries where muaythai is recognised and supported by the government. In Sweden a muaythai night might attract 15,000 spectators. The amateur side of muaythai is taking the sport to a much higher level. “We see businesspeople, lawyers and people in the entertainment world getting hooked. They love the intensity of the workouts. When you’re on an exercise machine, you still have time to play with your smartphone or watch TV. But with muaythai, your instructor is right in front of you, pushing you and encouraging you. A lot of folks in high-income, high-pressure jobs do muaythai to relieve stress. After a hard hour’s workout, they go back to the office refreshed.” In 2013, the IFMA launched a successful campaign for muaythai to become recognised by the International Olympic Committee for possible Olympic status. Meanwhile Thailand’s professional world is still strong, especially outside Bangkok. The nation counts roughly 60,000 full-time boxers, only a fraction of whom make it into the Bangkok stadiums. In fact, Thai boxing aficionados insist that, however exciting the Bangkok stadium fights are, the heart of muaythai resides in the provinces, especially on the temple fair (ngaan wat) circuit. A strong sense of community binds these temple fair venues with the rural Thai boxing camps. While the big Bangkok promoters reap substantial compensation from staging muaythai, provincial promoters tend to stay involved out of sheer love for the martial art. bangkok101.com

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King Bhumibol

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insight

ToTwmo ’Ssatang

S N A P S H OT S

Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21stcentury trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner

On monarchy

Artwork: Woodcut print by Kitikong Tilokwattanotai

hailand’s principal three institutions are represented on the colours of the flag. Red – for the Nation – is the borders at the top and the bottom. Next comes white – for Religion. In the middle, blue, representing the Monarchy, holds it all together. Along many royal bloodlines and dynasties, their sovereigns have been a constant over the centuries. Although Thailand is a constitutional monarchy, the royal family has evolved and maintained its significance and relevance in the modern era. Kashatra or Kshatriya – meaning ‘king’ in Thai – comes from kashetra, meaning ‘land’ or ‘field’. Therefore, a king is the ruler of the land, like the warrior-ruler in the VedicHindu caste system. Fiefdom or feudalism is still alive but has taken new forms. In the Sukhothai Period, ‘paternal rule’ made the king ‘the father of the land’ who governed his ‘children’. Toward the end of the Sukhothai and up until the Rattanakosin Period the Devaraja concept of the ‘divine King’ emerged. The king was treated as an avatar of many Hindu deities – an incarnate of Vishnu with the symbol of Garuda as His mount. Rama, one of Vishnu’s avatars, is the most popular. Essentially influenced by Theravada Buddhism, the Dhammaraja concept or kingship under Dharma is that the king should rule his people in accordance with Dharma or the teachings of the Buddha. The monarch is thus bound by the rules of Dhosapitrajadhamma, the 10 royal virtues of charity, good conduct, sacrifice, honesty, gentleness, perseverance, compassion, peace, patience and steadfastness. Combining the concepts of the divine King and the Bodhisattva incarnate (the enlightened one), the king’s authority stems from his religious power, his moral clarity and the purity of his blood. In 1950 on Coronation Day, King Bhumibol pledged that he would “reign with righteousness for the benefit and happiness of the Siamese people”. With these words he began a reign devoted to the Kingdom’s development and the improvement of the Thai people’s livelihood. Before King Rama IX the Great’s current reign, Thailand had many other Greats. Phokhun Ramkhamhaeng was known for his military conquests and economic and social bangkok101.com

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development. King Naresuan and King Taksin led the liberation of Siam from Burmese occupation after the First and the Second Fall of Ayutthaya in 1593 and in 1767. In the mid-17th century, King Narai’s reign was the most prosperous due to the great commercial and diplomatic relationships with the Europeans and the Persians. King Chulalongkorn – or Rama V – left an impressive legacy of immense government and social reforms. Also, by ceding territory to the British Empire and French Indochina, he saved Thailand from being colonised. King Vajiravudh – or Rama VI – is known for his efforts to create and promote Siamese nationalism as well as his artistic endeavours and move toward democracy. Like his hard-working ancestors, King Bhumibol is credited for a social-economic theory of self-sufficiency and the king has made donations to numerous development projects in Thailand, such as agriculture, conservation of the environment and its natural resources, public health and welfare, occupational promotion, water resources and irrigation, and communication. While all of these are mainly aimed at raising the standard of living, particularly among farmers in rural areas, His Majesty has also helped alleviate the problems facing city dwellers, such as floods and traffic congestion. As a ‘network monarchy’, King Bhumibol’s power works behind the scenes to establish political influence via the Privy Council. Amid heightened fears of civil war in ‘Black May’ of 1992, he made a rare public intervention in pursuit of a peaceful resolution. Although Thais do not expect foreigners to view the monarchy in the same light as we do, visitors should show respect – such as standing up for the Royal Anthem in cinemas. Admittedly, most Thais gossip about the royal family in private. However, it is unwise to discuss or insult the monarchy in public because of its sensitivity and the lèse-majesté law, which can land the offenders in prison for up to 15 years. Our deep love and reverence for the king reflects the moral authority His Majesty has earned during his reign as well as the attitudes rooted in the past kingships. King Bhumibol has been the ‘King of Hearts’, bringing together everyone from all shades of political leanings and giving them an intense awareness of being Thai. DECEMBER 2013 | 27

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S N A P S H OT S

very thai

blind bands bringing joy to the streets

umper-to-bumper vehicles aren’t the only kind of Thai street jam. In an impromptu musical jam, trios play sidewalks, 10-piece bands gig by the roadside, lone a cappella minstrels serenade stalls. Pavement players may be a common sight across the world, but in Thailand there’s a difference: most of the wanipok (buskers) cannot see. Blind musicians cover every age, region and genre, from folk to rock to ballad. Some sightless soloists rove, waving a cane or gripping a sighted assistant. Head swaying like Stevie Wonder, the singer phases poignantly in and out of microphone range. Static groups make the best music, gleaning donations into a large steel box. Guitars, chime bells, pipes and drums turn the sidewalk into a stage, typically under a footbridge. Wired to amps and large speakers, the Electone synthesiser perches on plastic stools. At the simpler end, you might encounter faint melodies emanating from an elderly couple folded on to a tiny patch of paving. Granny warbles over granddad’s plaintive scrapings on the pin, a kind of three-stringed mandolin. They’re from the north. Migrants from the northeast are more likely to wheeze elegaically through the region’s trademark bamboo harmonica, the khaen, to lyrics in Lao of rural toil. PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH

> Very Thai

Photos: Philip Cornwel-Smith

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip CornwelSmith | B 995

28 | DECEMBER 2013

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Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, ‘Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture’ is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

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chronicle of thailand

S N A P S H OT S

november 25, 2008:

demonstrators seize bangkok airports

hundreds of passengers trapped DRUG during week-long protests

OUST

nti-government demonstrators, protesting since armed fo August, shut down Suvarnabhumi and Don Muang from airports, bringing air travel in and out of the capital Chiang Rai Thai forces to a halt. Seeking the resignation of Prime Minister Somchai against drug lord Khun Wongsawat, who was seen as a proxy for the exiled former his 200-mule opium ca prime minister, Thaksin Shinawatra, People’s Alliance for Democracy (PAD) protesters marched from their base at Several thousand by planes and helicopte Government House to Bangkok’s two airports, Suvarnabhumi International and Don Muang, taking over and shuttingstronghold at Ban Hin T down both. The group stated it was seeking to change(SUA). the At least 1,000 re governing and electoral process that had empowered as thefierce ruralfighting flared masses, whom some PAD members saw as ‘ill-educated’. After Thai and SU a truce proposal put for The takeovers, which lasted roughly a week, trapped Tinsulanond stated: “A hundreds of passengers and forced thousands of others to narcotics trafficking, fac alter their travel plans. Some airlines began running flights continue its drive again through the military airport at U-Tapao, two hours outside destroyed.” It was estim the capital, to evacuate passengers leaving the country. of the region’s heroin. T The airport closures represented one of the worst crises extensive headquarters in the history of the tourism industry. Siriporn Manoharn, the governor of the Tourism Authority of Thailand, saidand theequipment as casu In July, Khun Sa’s negative effects of the airport closures were greater than that troops, fought against t of the tsunami that ravaged the country’s southern provinces sideday.’ of Doi Lang mount in 2004. She said: ‘Even the tsunami was over in just one Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivide eye-witnessaccount of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced.

> Chronicle of Thailand

EDM Books | editor-in-chief

21 January Nicholas1982 Grossman | B1,450

> Chronicle of Thailand EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450

Chiang Rai provinces. T displaced hundreds of Border Patrol Police. In Sa’s new base on Doi L constructed 200 buildin

Chronicle of Thailand is the story o Adulyadej. Beginning on the day h presents a vivid eye-witness accou major news events of the last 64 y as they unfolded and quirky aspec the news, the book features thous illustrations, representing one of t Thailand ever produced.

still life in moving vehicles

showing your

true colours

n Thailand, the colour pink doesn’t carry the same associations as it does in the West. Here it’s a colour that everyone seems to fancy, including the King and owners of taxi fleets just the same. Today, the interior of my taxi was coated in pink vinyl with a Damascus pattern. If you ask me, this look is straight out of a bordello circa 1973, but for my taxi driver, it represents the ultimate in good taste and luxury.

CiTy vS. COUNTRy

This cabby literally wears two hats. He dons a baseball cap when he’s driving his cab and puts on this straw hat when he’s farming. This is not uncommon in Bangkok as many cabbies here come from the countryside to drive a taxi between rice plantings and harvests, or when extra income is desperately needed. I asked the driver of this taxi which job he prefers and he told me that he would much rather do farming than drive in this city full of traffic jams and crazy people. Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, Still Life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com). Published by River Books, the spin-off book, Thai Taxi Talismans, is available at bookstores around town for B995. DECEMBER 2013 | 29

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S N A P S H OT S

listings

HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall [map 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo Tue -Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam noen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [map 4/A3]

M.r. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [map 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 02-286-8185 Sat-Sun 10 am-5pm, Mon-Fri by appt B 50 / B 20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.

VIMANMEK MANSION [map 8/F8] 139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd | 02-281-1569 9:30 am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.

SUAN PAKKAD palace [MAP 8/K11]

Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 suanpakkad.com | 9am-4pm | B100 jimthompsonhouse.com | 9am-5pm B100 / B 50 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed graduate and former spook who revived Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard the hand-woven Thai silk industry before pays testament to her dedication to disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things ERAWAN SHRINE [map 4/G5] to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan home beside a pungent canal: six traditional BTS Chit Lom teak houses from around the country kept Don’t expect serenity here. This is one exactly as he left them.

of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.

SHRINES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [map 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094 8:30am-4:30pm | B 400 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits.

WAT ARUN [map 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd 02-465-5640 | watarun.org 8am-5pm | B 20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.

WAT PO (reclining buddha) [map 7/D12]

Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1pm-9pm | B100 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. 30 | DECEMBER 2013

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S N A P S H OT S

listings

MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [map 8/L11, 12]

85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng). Ratchaprarop Rd 02-245-3008 | bangkokdolls.com Mon-Sat 8am-5pm | free Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.

bangkokian MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtakingrevelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.

Madame tussauds [map 4/C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-658-0060 madametussauds.com/Bangkok 10am -9pm | B 800 / B 600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe's famous waxwork 32 | DECEM BER 2013

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museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.

MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 02-653-5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm ( App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it's open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.

Museum of Siam [map 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier 02-622-2599 | ndmi.or.th Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | Free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [map 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang 02-224-1333 | thailandmuseum.com Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B 200 | no photo Previously a palace during the reign of

Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam's main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.

MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [map 1/F6] 296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan province | 02-709-1644 | ancientcity.com B 500 / B 250 kids / B1500 private guide in English for two hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky theme park. Its late founder, Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing.

THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1/E5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya Nakorn Pathom province nfat.org 02-482-2013-15 | Sat-Sun tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; MonFri: by appointment | Free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio. bangkok101.com

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Festive Actually Size : 15.6cm x 10.6cm

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a r t

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dreaming of nature Suthirak Rithraksa’s exhibition of contemporary paintings, entitled The Dreamer, is on display at Tribeca Restobar (Nihonmura Mall, 85 Thong Lor Soi 13; tribeca-restobar. com; 02-712-9209) until December 20. The collection is made up of acrylic paintings that capture the essence of nature as perceived in the artist’s dreams. “When I paint I feel quiet and lost within myself. It’s like a meditation where I can see and feel what is really inside me,” Suthirak says. “I see colours in my head and I express them with my brushes. I like to challenge myself with each stroke. “I love the skies, the trees, their branches, and the moon and the sun. They make me feel the freedom of life. The colours of the sky represent my love and passion for each of my paintings. The branches of each tree are alive, complicated but beautiful. The sun and the moon are the beauty of nature and I see them with my own colours and style. They are all in my mind – they are places in my dreams that I want to visit.”

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A R T & C u lt u r e

exhibitions

Heal

Mutable Forms and Immutable Consciousness

Mutable Forms and Immutable Consciousness Tang Contemporary Art [MAP 5/d5] 5F The Silom Galleria, Soi 19 Silom Rd | 02-630-1114 11am-7pm | tangcontemporary.com

Until December 14 Chinese artist Xu Qu uses cryptic coding to encourage viewers to seek new perspectives. Mesmeric patterns lead us to seek beginnings and ends, yet it is the experience and memory of the situation that the artist wants us to consider.

Tradition or Change

The Discipline of Subjectivity

currency crisis

Whitespace Gallery [MAP 8/l16] 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1, Rama VI Rd | 081-699-5298 Wed-Sun midday-6pm | whitesp-cegallery.com

Until December 29 Curated by Bangkok-based Singaporean Tang Fu Kuen, this exhibition brings together six regional Thai, Singaporean, and Burmese artists, who share the topic of money. They approach the topic with wit and irony as they look at currency in terms of object, perception, and materiality.

tradition or change

Thavibu Gallery [MAP 5/d5] 3F The Silom Galleria, Soi 19 Silom Rd | 02-266-5454 Tues-Sat 11am-7pm, Su noon-6pm | thavibu.com

Until December 14 Recent changes to the Myanmarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s political climate have brought greater expectation of cultural liberalisation. Incorporating painting, print, photography, mixed media, video and performance, this group exhibition spans three generations and looks at the shifts from traditional values.

heal

ardel gallery of modern art [MAP 2/j12] 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromrachonanee Rd | 02-422-2092 Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | ardelgallery.com

Until December 15 Thanistha Nuntapojn physically and symbolically binds her mixed media sculptures through the use of darn. The coloured braid acts as a restorative agent between the cracked glassware in a metaphoric act with implications to healing wounds, memories, relationships or even societies. 50 | DECEMBER 2013

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Currency Crisis

The Discipline of Subjectivity 100 Tonson Gallery [MAP 3/b12] 100 Tonson Gallery, Ploenchit Rd | 02-684-1527 Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm | 100tonsongallery.com

Until January 5 Austrian artist Erwin Wurm returns to exhibit and mark the galleryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 10th anniversary. Through his One Minute Sculptures and distorted sculptural installations that reference everyday life, Wurm challenges existing artistic and theoretical conventions. bangkok101.com

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A good eye for art Andrew West spent a decade writing about art and never fancied himself as an artist but a decision to turn his hand to photography has paid off spectacularly.

ndrew West never set out to become an artist – rather, he had spent his career as a journalist, writing about Thai art. So it is with a mixture of surprise and excitement that the Australian looks forward to his exhibition next month at the Bangkok Art & Cultural centre (BACC). His Three Worlds is a collection of images of Thai artists alongside their work, the culmination of an unexpected turn of events. “I’d been writing about Thai art for about 10 years and got to know a lot of Thai artists over that time,” West recalls. “I was still working in Australia but I forged a lot of relationships through universities – I used to come to Thailand and stay with these artists and they’d come 52 | DECEM BER 2013

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BY TOM STURROCK

to Australia and stay with me. I found myself coming to Thailand more and more and then, as I found that I liked it, like most people do, about 10 years ago I moved here.” West began writing for the Bangkok Post as an art critic and before long found himself working on an exhaustive reference guide to Thai art. While thinking about ways to promote his tome, he decided to start photographing some of the artists he knew with their work. “I put it together with some poems but didn’t know if it would come to anything,” he said. “It felt quite unusual because I’d never done photography. I was a complete amateur but I knew I had a good eye for it.” bangkok101.com

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exhibitions

A R T & C u lt u r e

“Amateurs can take excellent photographs. But i’m in shock – i never wanted to be an artist”

Having worked on his project privately, West eventually had a meeting at the BACC, where he was well-known, albeit as a writer, and certainly not as an exhibiting artist in his own right. “I’d taken about 25 photos and went to the BACC,” he says. “When they saw my idea, they offered me a show. It definitely moved unexpectedly quickly but they thought it was a great way to promote Thai art and artists.” When West discusses the images, it’s clear he retains some of his journalist’s sensibilities – even if he’s now crossed over to ‘the other side’ – preferring his images to convey a small slice of reality, to document. “I shot the artists as they are with their art work, without manipulating it,” he says. “There’s a self-reflexivity to it, which is very modern – like a writer writing about writing. “Technology has put photography into everyone’s hands and made it much more accessible. Art can be anything and amateurs can take excellent photographs. But I’m in shock – I never wanted to be an artist. I studied journalism and although I’ve known thousands of artists and written about them and their art, a lot of them are telling me ‘but you’re not an artist’. I’d be really surprised, too. But they’re also pleased.” In the course of shooting Thai artists, West visited various locations and added to the shots by incorporating poetic verse. bangkok101.com

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“There’s a bit of everything in there – I didn’t want it to just be photos of artists in galleries,” he says. “Sometimes it’s them at home, just in ordinary clothing – I took photos in front of the sculptures out at Chatuchak. So I tried to include a range. “And then I put poetry over the top in acrylics and it was interesting trying to compose writing to go with the image. The title is a reference to that, the three elements of photography, poetry and art, as well as Traiphum, which is the earliest known illustrated Thai manuscript.” West describes his artistic adventure as “life-changing” and hopes to continue in his new line of work with other subjects. For now, journalism may have to wait. “I feel very fortunate – when the BACC said I could have my show there, I was so happy,” he says. “I was never an artist but then I became one, just like that.”

three worlds january 14–february 16 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

[MAP 4/b4]

939 Rama 1 Rd | 02-214-6630 bacc.or.th | Tues-Sun 10am-9pm

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TANTALISE YOUR TASTE BUDS THIS FESTIVE SEASON

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cheat notes

a walking tour: bangkok G Byrne Bracken | B480

Forget attempting to traverse down the winding roads, narrow streets, and back alleys of Bangkok successfully – one look at Google Maps is enough to make your head spin. To the rescue comes Irish author G Byrne Bracken, combining his planning skills (he worked as an architect in Bangkok and Singapore) with hand-drawn black-and-white sketches and maps in this second, revised edition of A Walking Tour: Bangkok. Designed as a series of day-long adventures, each chapter in the book is devoted to a particular neighbourhood or district. The book sticks closely to the author’s remit of traversing Bangkok on foot, though a list of public transport options wouldn’t go amiss.. Nonetheless, the illustrative guide is well-organised with brief notes on the history, architectural styles, cultural etiquettes and mannerisms of Bangkok, plus suggested itineraries that sum up the city’s focal points.

bangkok found Alex Kerr | B600

On the face of it, this is just another book by just another westerner out to fathom the unfathomable: this great, baffling city. But Alex Kerr is not just another westerner. He grew up in Japan, won a prestigious literary prize there and knows Asia inside-out. And this is what makes these essays about how he ended up here so engaging. Kerr opines on many trite topics (the wai and Grand Palace among them) but by contrasting Thailand with Japan and Asia at large he puts fresh, revelatory spins on them. Chapters we have already earmarked for rereading include his enjoyably rambling meditations on Thailand’s baroque notion of beauty (“etherealization” he calls it), its dance, flowers, food and what he considers its greatest cultural capital, its “cult of gentleness”. Highly recommended, this book will open doors you didn’t even know were there.

A R T & C u lt u r e

eating thai good guide Mark Wiens | B210

Thai cuisine boasts an extraordinary range of tastes and experiences, but the sheer variety on offer can often be overwhelming for foreigners. With limited Thai language skills, the best the average visitor can do is point to a picture, or what the next table over is eating. This primitive method works to a point, but you invariably miss out on the best on offer, often resorting back to what you know best, dishes such as green curry and pad Thai. Fortunately for food lovers, Bangkokbased expatriate Mark Wiens has created a comprehensive Englishlanguage guide to Thai food – an e-book appropriately titled the Eating Thai Food Guide. What began as a personal selfeducation project into the intricacies of Thai cuisine is now paying off as a simplified and concise mini-encyclopedic collection of images, names, prices, and even locations of dishes.

STORIES FROM THE NORTH (RUANG LAO JAK MUANG NEA) Uruphong Raksasad | 2005 An old man, his dog, his gun, a house on stilts – the opening of this full-length documentary is wondrous, wordless iconography. Sun-squinting hardiness, the creeping unease with modern change, the transcendent solitude of life in accord with Nature – the vignette comes across as almost Emersonian. Unfortunately, Raksasad mars the moment with lazy scoring when he lets fly with assy, brassy blasts of Aaron Copland near the end of his overture. Stories underscores the transience of a fading rural community by unfurling scenes that feel timeless – a bicycle band of elders, serene cameos of water buffaloes, the harvest. bangkok101.com

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at home with

gentle giants Elephant expert John Roberts has spent the past decade overseeing Anantara Golden Triangle Resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ethical programme. WORDS BY TOM STURROCK

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n his 10 years as Director of Elephants at Anantara Golden Triangle Resort, John Roberts (below) has overseen one of the country’s most successful conservation programmes, tending to the elephants that live in the resort’s camp while also working to achieve broader aims. Before joining Anantara, Roberts had been volunteering in the jungles of Nepal. “Anantara were looking for someone to run an elephant camp ethically,” he recalls. “I’d been volunteering in the jungle for five years and was ready to move on. “Initially, it was as simple as making sure the needs of the elephants and the mahouts came before the needs of the business – that involved limiting their working hours and making sure there was enough food, among all the other things elephants need. “As time went on, we saw there was more and more we could do – specifically, rescuing street elephants and we set up our own foundation to do that. But we then found that we were driving a market – whenever we bought an elephant, that person would go and buy another. We

realised that if you’re buying elephants then you’re actually doing conservation damage. Part of what we’re trying to do is preserve the wild herd, so we now rent the elephants rather than buy them.” It quickly became clear that if Anantara was to succeed as an ethical entity, the mahouts needed to be kept in the picture throughout. “Many people don’t grasp the bond between the elephant and the mahout,” Roberts says. “It doesn’t always appear that way during working hours when the mahout needs to get the elephant to do something but it’s a 24-hour relationship. “There are five or six villages whose culture and way of life revolves around having always caught and trained elephants. So we work with these mahouts – there’s a compromise. We have to make sure they’re better off with us than without us. Their families can come with them and we allow them to keep that community together. We’ve built spirit houses for them and their elephant spirit men can come up and be part of that as well. Both the mahout and the elephant have insurance – it’s a conversation rather than us just imposing anything.” 58 | DECEMBER 2013

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A kebab platter at rang mahal p65 6 2 | M AY 2 0 1 3

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AROy making waves on sukhumvit

Although Sukhumvit Soi 33 has become slightly overrun with hostess bars in recent years, the arrival of Ocean (7 Sukhumvit Soi 33; 02-261-2800; oceanbangkok.com) is an impressively bold effort to reclaim it with something much cooler. Offering a combination of hotel, pool lounge, bar and restaurant, Ocean has enlisted some top-end talent in former elBulli chef Jacobo Astray and superstar mixologist Jospeh Boroski. Surely it’s only a matter of time before this place builds some serious hype.

polish your kitchen skills

If you’ve ever fancied yourself as a chef, your opportunity to hone your skills arrives this month in the form of cooking classes at Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park (952 Rama IV; 02-632-9000; crowneplazabkk.com). Executive chef Jeremy Lassere will share his expertise and guide you through Thai and Italian cooking classes at the Executive Club Lounge of the hotel. Classes will be held every Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday from 11am to 2.30pm and it’s B1800 per class.

breeze goes chinese

The Asian al fresco rooftop restaurant Breeze (lebua, 1055 Silom Rd; 02624-9555; lebua.com) has switched to a Chinese menu dubbed China 2020. The new “interactive a la carte menu” will be available for one year and looks ahead to predict Chinese dining trends in the year 2020. The menu combines a more experimental approach to dining and drinking with elements of Chinese tradition. Guests might mix their own cocktails, open a box to get at their dishes, and roll a dice for their ‘lucky’ sauce.

more options at centralworld

Look out for the new dining zone due to open in CentralWorld (999/9 Rama 1 Rd, 02-264-5555, centralworld.co.th) this month, featuring, among others, a new branch of Hyde & Seek, Bangkok’s original gastropub concept run by Ian Chalermkittichai and Peter Pitakwong. CentralWorld will also be one of the main locations for Bangkok’s New Year countdown celebrations, with a beer garden, concerts and plenty more.

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meal deals

EXOTIC LEMONGRASS CUISINE AT BASIL sheraton grande sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8366 | basilbangkok.com Until the end of December, Chef Kesinee invites lovers of authentic Thai cuisine to savour a selection of her exotic lemongrass dishes, such as spicy crispy mackerel salad with lemongrass, spicy chicken soup with lemongrass, succulent steamed snowfish with lemongrass, and more. The unforgettable dining experience ends with a luscious lemongrass-infused panna cotta.

57th STREET BUFFET LUNCH BANGKOK MARRIOTT HOTEL SUKHUMVIT Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 02-797-0000 | myclubmarriott.com The best buffet lunch in Thong Lor is back with its unbeatable price. Enjoy the unique take on super-charged street food, Japanese specialties, Indian curries and succulent carvery cuts. The offer runs Monday through Saturday and is available at the very reasonable price of B557 per person.

SEASONAL SANMA FISH CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRAL PLAZA LADPRAO 1695 Phaholyothin Rd, Chatuchak | 02-541-1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com Japanese restaurant Hagi invites you to treat yourself to their autumn sword fish ‘sanma’, which will be served in a variety of traditional ways, including teriyaki, sushi and sashimi and many more. The offer is available for a limited time December 3-12, so don’t miss this opportunity. Prices start at B530.

CAVE OPENING PROMOTION CAVE BISTRO BAR 2F Nihonmura Mall, Thong Lor Soi 13 | 081-743-7538 | facebook.com/CaveBistroBar Cave serves Italian, French and international food and drink made by their Japanese chef. It features homemade focaccia, pasta and pizzette. Pasta and pizzette start from B190. You can also find the best selections of wines, craft beers, cocktails and mocktails here. Enjoy the lunch set for B299 with an opening promotion of 20 percent off for all the menus at dinner time.

AUTHENTIC HUAIYANG ESSENCE AT SHANG PALACE SHANGRI-LA HOTEL 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road, Bangrak | 02-236-7777 | shangri-la.com/bangkok The Shangri-La Hotel will be offering an unrivalled dining experience with three talented guest chefs from China World Hotel at Shang Palace from December 6-15. The highlights include braised pork ball in superior soup, shredded wok-fried Mandarin fish, shredded dried beancurd simmered with Jinhua ham and shrimp.

discount on set lunch sole mio 387/15-16, Thong Lor Soi 21 | 02-185-2199 | solemiobkk.com If you need to take a break from your working day, head across to Sole Mio for some of Bangkok’s finest, most authentic Italian food. From Monday through Friday, you can enjoy a set lunch menu – with an appetiser, pizza or pasta and mini dessert – for B290. For Bangkok 101 readers, there’s a further 10 percent discount until the end of the year.

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review

FOOD & DRIN K

rang mahal

- Outstanding Indian From the moment one enters Rang Mahal, on the 26th floor of Rembrandt Hotel, it is clear that it has abandoned the fustier clichés of Indian restaurants, replaced instead by soaring ceilings, panoramic city views and an elegance that is all too uncommon. The name means ‘palace of colours’ and there is definitely a courtly air about it all, down to the traditional Indian band whose lilting music fills the air. Equally, while Indian cuisine routinely delivers powerful flavours, the refined, almost delicate food served at Rang Mahal is a rarity. Among the appetisers, the papri chaat (B175) and Punjabi samosa (B190) are relatively straightforward but the welljudged lightness and the fact the doughiness is not overdone mean these bite-sized dishes whet the appetite. Proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs come out. The tandoori prawn (B295 per piece, main) is smoked to perfection in Indian spices, while the murgh malai (B425) combines chicken and cream cheese for an extra kick. The house specialty, though, is the raan-e-khyber (B950 for half, B1595 for whole) – a leg of lamb marinated in rum, herbs and spices before being barbecued. It’s an impressive dish, rustic in appearance but perfectly executed, the chunks of lamb bangkok101.com

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peeling effortlessly from the bone, sweet and smokey at the same time. If you can’t choose from these, you can also get the platter (B825 for regular, B1125 for large). The curries are equally successful in delivering a heightened version of familiar dishes. The Goan fish curry (B495) combines a lightly sautéed fish seasoned with a fragrant mix of onions, garlic and spices, cooked in a sauce of tomatoes and coconut gravy, the flavours deftly balanced against each other. In the kashmiri rogan josh (B525, top left), the mutton is irresistibly tender, more casserole than curry, a spectacular rendition of one of the most familiar staples. The desserts are worth waiting for. The gulab jamun (B195) is a cream cheese dumpling flavoured with cardamom, saffron and almonds – it sounds like an unusual combination but the blending of savoury and sweet is a winning formula. The kulfi falooda (B225) is saffron-flavoured ice cream – but even then it is a pleasantly eye-opening experience.

rang mahal

[MAP 3/k11]

26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 02-261-7100 rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm

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scalini - Italian goes international Bangkok is, naturally enough, best known for its Thai food, with other Asian cuisines not far behind. But these days, European food – French or Italian – is booming, particularly when served with a twist. It’s almost as though taking these old-world staples and dropping them into an Asian culinary hub has given restaurateurs licence to experiment, update and adapt. So it is with Scalini – it’s ostensibly a modern Italian place but it riffs on a New York connection, while borrowing bits and pieces from the international table. So, in short, it’s Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. It’s apparent from the antipastis, which include a tuna and salmon tartar, with lemon aioli, mango salad and seared ciabatta (B450) – retaining a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asianinfluenced combinations. Other dishes stay closer to home, such as the Wagyu beef carpaccio, with porcini salsa, rocket and parmesan, served with white truffle vinaigrette (B570, main image). The rich, satisfying taste of Italian food has an extra layer of complexity. That’s more or less the brief for all modern cuisine – taking the familiar and refining it, heightening it. And it’s on show again with the Hokkaido scallops, served here with celery, red onion, tomatoes, basil and cherry vinaigrette (B480). These adventurously designed openers set the bar high so it’s perversely pleasing that the pastas tack slightly more toward the traditional, although the pumpkin and sage ravioli 66 | December 2013

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(B380) still has a surprisingly delicate flavour and the duck ragout with black truffle and tonino pecorino (B600) is one of the absolute stand-outs, moist without becoming soupy, retaining a kick without being overbearing. So far, this balancing act has worked a treat – the concept is clear but it’s still all about the food. It proves slightly harder to adapt this approach to the larger, heavier mains, though. Both the braised veal ossobuco (B980) and the veal rack with mortadello ham and provolone (B980) are confidently presented but are slightly too straightforward in terms of flavour – in letting the produce speak for itself, there’s a risk of leaving some dishes a touch underseasoned. Still, the concept is a winner and if the execution of the smaller dishes can be replicated across the board, Scalini’s will thrive.

scalini

[MAP 3/n12]

Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 02-620 6666 | hilton.com/en | Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm

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CUISINE ART

The Fine Art of Thai Cuisine Ruen Urai, â&#x20AC;&#x153;the House of Goldâ&#x20AC;?, combines Thai culinary art with elegant ambience. Inspired by Thailand's diverse regions, cultures and styles, our gastronomic creations vary from royal Thai cuisine to refined home-cooking. Discover the secret oasis of Ruen Urai. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11pm. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel: 66 (0) 2266-8268-72 Fax: 66 (0) 2266-8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com

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review

FOOD & DRIN K

breizh crepes

- A taste of Brittany If you’re heading along Sathorn Rd toward the river away from Lumpini Park, Suan Plu breaks to the left, a little outcrop of charmingly ramshackle local shops and even the odd upstart of greenery. Then, if you continue along Suan Plu’s narrow pavements all the way to Soi 8, you’ll find an unexpected trove of Europeaninfluenced eateries. Among them is Breizh Crepes, on a shallow, pleasantly low-key alcove. It’s quite a find. It’s more cafe than restaurant, open-air but still compact, kitchen staff working busily to serve up crepes and galettes over a high counter. For the uninitiated, a crepe is sweet and a galette is savoury and the menu here is divided between the two. The name – Breizh – marks the style of the food as Breton, or from Brittany, where galettes are ubiquitous, essentially replacing bread and butter. Another staple of Breton cuisine is cider, served in a bowl at B99. There’s also an excellent range of smoothies for B79 each. Of course, that’s all just to wet your whistle before the food arrives. The menu takes in some standard combinations of ham and cheese and egg but also goes out of its way to present some more creative alternatives. For example, the signature Breizh Galette (B159) comes out with chicken bangkok101.com

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breast, a fried egg, mushroom and emmental cheese. The egg, when split, moistens the light pancake casing. For the Tuk Tuk (B189), we head from the north-western shores of Brittany to the souks of north Africa, lamb murguez adding a Moroccan spiciness to a base of tomato and cheese. There’s a seafood aspect to a couple of other options, the Ocean (B189) combining red tuna, onions, seaweed and garlic cream and the Jersey (B199) using smoked salmon instead. In both instances, there’s a real reward for branching out and trying something new. For those with a sweet tooth – or for those who believe sugar rules the day when it comes to crepes – there’s an even more varied menu. Here, the Breizh Crepe (B119) brings together chocolate chips and a blueberry coulis in a way that works surprisingly well, while the Tropic (B119) is less surprising but will please those who simply can’t go past a mixture of peach, passionfruit and mango.

breizh crepes

[MAP 5/k9]

459/59 Suan Plu Soi 8 | 02-679-3393 breizh-crepes.com | Mon-Fri 7am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-1pm

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review

SHANG PALACE

- Unforgettable Beijing duck When the recently refurbished Shang Palace planned to reopen a couple of months ago, there was a short delay while they put the finishing touches on the new decor. Specifically, the three enormous lotus flowershaped chandeliers that run down the middle of the main dining room, each one sparkling from the thousands of glass beads that catch the light, were taking longer to finish than expected. Even so, it was worth the wait. The interior is flawlessly elegant and, even more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. Throughout, the food is low on oil, delivering delicate flavours while still being immensely satisfying. The dim sum is the obvious place to start – the scallop siew mai (B120, left bottom) and the deep-fried shrimp and sesame spring rolls (B90) offer both sweet and salty taste, the scallops deliciously tender while the spring rolls add some crunch. The crispy barbecue pork buns (B80) are also a winner, the pastry bursting coming apart to expose the grilled, saucy goodness. But the signature dish is undoubtedly the Beijing roast duck (B1900) that is enough to feed four people and comes in two separate dishes. First, the skin comes off and is served with 70 | December 2013

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thin pancakes, green onion and plum sauce. The duck meat is then taken away and minced or stir-fried before returning to the table, seasoned with pine nuts and egg yolk, to be parcelled up inside fresh lettuce leaves. The baked river prawn with butter and black pepper suace (B220, left top) is another highlight – it’s a seriously sized prawn that is a brilliant pink when you manage to crack open the shell. And the black pepper sauce is completely addictive – adding spice but with a richness that floods through after the initial hit. The seafood keeps on coming – this time with a double hit of fresh crab. First, there’s the bird’s nest soup with crab roe (B1300) before the sticky rice with crab (B1800) that comes out in a family-sized bamboo basket. Without exception, it’s colourful, fresh and complex, without ever tipping over into the kind of over-seasoning that overwhelms the produce, making Shang Palace one of Bangkok’s top-notch Chinese places.

shang palace

[MAP 8/f17]

3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road 02-236-7777 | shangri-la.com | 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm

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FOOD & DRIN K

in the kitchen

jonathan maza talks to Howard Richardson

With restaurants like the world-renowned modern Japanese Nobu in his portfolio, Hawaiian-born executive chef Jonathan Maza was a shoo-in to head the multiple kitchens at Ku De Ta. I’m with him behind the long sushi bar open kitchen in their contemporary Asian restaurant, Signature, where they dish out sparkling creations like sashimi-influenced plates to share, with sauce ingredients drawn from around the world. There’s black snapper with yuzu honey and truffle soy; yellowtail with nahm prik and cilantro vinaigrette; ocean trout with white kelp, wasabi and ponzu – “I’m looking for flavours that pop,” Jonathan says. The restaurant is busy, the kitchen buzzing. It’s just the second Friday night service since Ku De Ta’s opening, and I’m in the firing line, ducking and diving as the chef runs me through the operation. As befits a 1000sqm venue, the kitchen, stretching back to its walk-in freezers, is larger than some apartments. It’s packed with chefly gadgets like computersised combi ovens, a deep freezer that drops to a painful minus-85 degrees, and equipment Jon created himself in his other role as a kitchen designer. There have to be 20 guys behind here. Every so often, they huddle like American footballers discussing the next play. The sound of Jonathan’s voice – “Fire one tempura!” – barks across the kitchen, rising above the electro soundtrack filtering through from Ku Bar next door. Beyond the restaurant floor, the view stretches across the river, as far as the eye can see. “There are three components to this dish – the ravioli, the 72 | December 2013

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short ribs and sauce,” Jonathan says of the short rib with kabocha wild mushroom ravioli and teriyaki veal jus, another stand-out item on the menu. “The ribs are 240-day grain fed Australian Angus beef,” he continues. “They’re boned, seasoned and seared, then braised for eight hours until they’re tender and moist. Then we chill them in the braising liquid.” The ribs are reheated to order in a sauté pan with teriyaki sauce and veal stock, glazing and reducing the sauce. “For the ravioli filling we roast Japanese pumpkin with butter and brown sugar and caramelise and mince three types of mushrooms – hon shimeji, shiitake and enoki,” Jonathan explains. “Then, we mix the pumpkin and mushroom with mascarpone cheese.” The ravioli plates with the short ribs on top: “You can see them glistening. They’ve absorbed all that sauce.” The dish is sticky and deliciously sweet. With juicy meat to chew and fondant-soft ravioli filling, it’s like different textures of luxurious toffee. There’s a nutty balance from sprinkles of grated caramelised walnuts, leek-like green vegie freshness from fine-sliced Tokyo negi, and a touch of acidity from grapes marinated in yuzu juice. An impressive new arrival.

signature

[MAP 8/j17]

F39-40 Ku De Ta, Sathorn Square, Narathiwat Rd 02-108-2000 | kudeta.com | 6pm-10.30pm

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ealtike

Nym

Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel

fresh coconut ice cream

hraeng Phuthorn, one of Bangkok charming hidden gems, is striking in its variety. The whole area is its own complete compound with a courtyard in the middle so it’s perfect for soaking up the atmosphere while enjoying a cold treat refined over the ages. The community has been doing things their own way for generations: repairing old cars, selling jungle outfits and camping gear, making moon cake and other desserts – each of the shops or the houses does something different than their neighbours and adds to the charming diversity. One of the stars in this little universe is the shop named ‘Nattaporn’, which makes fresh and famous homemade coconut ice cream. Khun Nattaporn’s family has been living in Phraeng Phuthin for three generations already and for over 70 years the family has sold this ice cream kati, made from their grandmother’s recipe. The secret of her family’s coconut ice cream is truly simple: only use the freshest and best-quality coconuts, squeeze the juice from the fruit-meat then mix with other pure ingredients. The real coconut can be felt on the tongue and the taste lingers – the creaminess and the freshness. It’s a world away from the sharp and flat taste of the artificially flavoured ice cream kati that can be found all over Bangkok.

Unlike modern yoghurt or ice cream with their sticky, sweet toppings, here you will get all kinds of interesting extras to balance and complement the ice cream: steamed barley, cooked corn, lotus seeds, red beans, green beans and sticky rice. Add a few roasted peanuts and a little drizzle of fresh milk on top. If that’s not enough to satisfy, you can even try a version in which you’ll find slivers of young coconut meat as surprise bites in each spoonful; and if you feel like something besides coconut, you can also try their sorbets made from tropical fruits like mango.

HAVE A HOLLY, JOLLY HILTON. For a truly memorable occasion, Millennium Hilton Bangkok is delighted to offer the perfect destination, a choice of tempting cuisine and sparkling entertainment. Flow . Yuan . Prime . Maya . ThreeSixty For more information or bookings, please dial +66 (0)2 442 2000 or email bkkhi.informations@hilton.com

123 Charoennakorn Road I Klongsan I Bangkok 10600 STAY HILTON. GO EVERYWHERE.

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listings

Bo.Lan

thai bo.lan [MAP 3/o12] 42 Sukhumvit 26 Soi Pichai Ronnarong Songkram | 02-260-2962 | bolan.co.th Tues-Sun 6pm-10.30pm Since setting up shop on snug cul-de-sac running off Sukhumvit soi 26, Bo.Lan has carved out a niche for itself among the myriad restaurants promising authentic Thai food. Whereas some restaurants have adapted Thai flavours to suit western palates, at Bo.Lan, the commitment to tradition is as unswerving as the all-wood Lanna-style furnishings are gorgeous. The Bo.Lan Balance menu (B1880) offers customers a selection of mid-sized dishes, beginning with an impressive amuse bouche that includes a particularly satisfying mouthful of Thai noddles with dumplings, where a slow-burn spice silhouettes a refreshing zest and the delicate presentation does not detract from intense flavours. The main selection of dishes comes out in a flurry – there’s beef with organic mangosteen and a chilli-mint dressing, relish of salty duck egg in coconut cream, with mince prawn and grilled squid, as well as a stir-fried pork with santol. It’s highquality produce and the attention to detail throughout is striking, although the bolder

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notes of chilli and lime risk overshadowing more subtle undertones. It’s worth sticking around for dessert, though – Thai sweets can sometimes be a bit too super-sweet and gloopy to really hit the spot but the immaculately presented selection of fresh fruit, Thai toffee and edible decorations, all served on a rustic wooden platter, is a fitting symbol of Bo.Lan’s modus operandi: essentially Thai, delivered with panache.

Chon [Map 8/E6] The Siam hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd | 02-206-6999 thesiamhotel.com | Noon-11pm The signature Thai restaurant at the exquisite Siam hotel sits in one of three beautifully preserved wooden houses once owned by Connie Mangskau, a friend of silk pioneer Jim Thompson. A wooden statue of mother and child greets as you enter, lying on a table to resemble a reclining Buddha. There are orchids and candles on the tables, old mirrors on the walls, and slender standing lamps with delicate grilled metal shades. Blair Mathieson, who was previously chef for three years at the Chedi, in Chiang Mai has designed a small home-style menu, with food far more impressive than the Siam Mojitos on the list of cocktails (B390). Dishes worth returning for include the pomelo salad, Yum Som O (B320), which has the textural addition of water chestnut and occasional pieces of toasted coconut to add interest. For luxury, a sliver of lobster tail lies on top. Sa Lat Phed Todd (B350) has juicy soft, almost pâté-like slow roasted duck flesh contrasting with light crispy skin, gained by flash frying in a wok. It’s a delicious dish, served with a sticky sweet tamarind sauce like melted toffee.

Paste Another stand-out is Gaeng Chapoo Poo (B460), an enticing bowl of dark red curry with large meaty gobs of crab and those beautiful tangles of green chapoo leaves that lift from the surface like healthy pond life.

PASTE [MAP 3/P6] 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 02-392-4313 | pastebangkok.com | Tues-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6pm-late One of the most talked about and innovative new Thai restaurants of 2013 is tucked to one side of soi 49 in the backstreets of Thong Lor. But if the entrance is easily overlooked, the modern Thai food inside is unlikely to be forgotten. For entrees, the dry-spiced chilli squid, topped with vinegar and tomato relish (B240) is a winner. Among the mains, the prime cuts of Australian red meat stand out invitingly from the local produce – the braised beef ribs with ginger rice, tamarind leaves and mushroom soy (B380) are perfect if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The roast duck salad with lychee and Vietnamese mint (B380) packs an immediate punch but it is the hint of banana blossom that delivers a surprising, sensational finish. And then there is the tamarind and caramel pork belly with moonflower, red okra and green chilli pickle (400). It’s an inspired

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listings

Bourbon Street combination, the pork belly coming apart effortlessly while its outer layer retains a rainbow of flavours, its richness lightened perfectly by the moonflower and okra. Overall, Paste is a triumph, fusing tradition and innovation with a confidence and craft that never veers into showiness. Good food is often described as “tasty” or “delicious” but these descriptions are fleeting – the best meals go a step further and stay with us long after the plates are cleared. And, on that score, Paste delivers with exceptional panache, serving food that is not just instantly gratifying but truly memorable.

american BOURBON STREET [MAP 8/S16] 9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekamai | 02 381 6801 | bourbonstbkk.com 7am-1am New Orleans, the Big Easy, is famed for many things – its music, its nightlife and, of course, its distinctive Cajun food. There are bits and pieces borrowed from western Europe, particularly France and Spain, mixed up in a giant gumbo pot with Creole – itself a mixture of European and African-American influences - and infused with the brassy flavours of the American south.

For the uninitiated, it’s a baffling cuisine, partly because it hasn’t been exported wholesale from Louisiana to the rest of the world. That said, washed down with a couple of particularly zingy margaritas at Bourbon Street in Ekkamai, it starts to make a whole lot of sense. The menu is vast, so fortunately the proprietor, Doug, who has been preaching the Cajun gospel in Bangkok for 30-odd years, is on-hand to offer his recommendations. No Cajun banquet is complete without a gumbo, which, on first appearance, looks like a simple working man’s stew - in Cajun cuisine, gumbo is a versatile dish that can contain more or less whatever the chef fancies. Here, it’s chicken and sausage (B140) in a rich broth – whatever spices or thickeners are being expertly employed at Bourbon Street, the flavour jumps off the spoon. An early highlight, undoubtedly. But they come thick and fast thereafter. The buffalo wings (B160) and the barbecue ribs (B370) are perfect for those with big appetites who aren’t afraid to get stuck in.

BURGER FACTORY [MAP 3/t2] 3 Soi Ekkamai 10 | 02-714-4249 | facebook. com/theburgerfactory | Sun-Thurs 11.30am11pm, Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight Stylishly wrought in black metal, the Burger Factory seems to owe more to the ironsmith’s atelier than your typical American-style diner. Not that that’s a bad thing – unlike your typical American-style diner this joint located in the corner of a hip but low-key strip mall on Ekamai Soi 10 looks every inch the after-work hangout, like a stylish gastro-bar. We chomped on three from the list of 11

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Burger Factory burgers, all of them cooked medium, as is the default here. The first, the Patty Melt (B300), was compact and handsome, with a generous layer of caramelised onions and melted gruyere and Gouda cheeses. The second, the Red Devil Burger (B300), was heftier and messier due to its extras: an omelet and thick layer of spicy sauce. Both hit the spot (thankfully, the latter didn’t live up to the menu’s “the most spicy burger on earth” claim); but for us it was the least fancy of the three, the Factory Burger (B290), that impressed the most. Sinking your teeth into this trim bacon cheeseburger, you could taste the homemade-ness, as the patty flaked in the mouth, releasing a succulent burst of flame-grilled flavour. Accompanying it were some squiggly, seasoned curly fries (other options: French fries or homemade potato salad), and washing it down was a vanilla milkshake – a tasty one, albeit lacking the thick, creamy texture we’re used to.

Little Beast [MAP 3/Q6] 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13 | 02-185-2670 facebook.com/littlebeastbar | Tue-Sat 5.30pm-1am, Sun 5.30-midnight The interior designers behind this cosy, clubby little gastro-bar are PIA Interior, the same talent who conjured up the enjoyable, Old Siam-style over-the-topness of the Hotel

49 Sukhumvit soi 49 - Terrace 49 Building 2nd floor - reservation +6622041731

OTTEGA

private wine room - open lunch and dinner bangkok101.com

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www.labottega.name

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listings chinese

Mandopop

mandopop [MAP 4/k6]

Little Beast Muse. Here, though, the 1920s Prohibitionera feel is not as flamboyant, with a concrete rawness marrying with the dimmed lighting, wood accents and button-tufted, black leather chairs. Whether you head upstairs, past the faux-vintage sketches of one of the partners’ pet bulldog – the titular ‘Little Beast’ – to the private mezzanine, or stay downstairs, this is an intimate spot suited to grazing and glugging, or a bit of both. Rustled up by the female chef Nana Bunyasaranand, the food is New American, which essentially means that they serve exotic twists on old world standbys. Thus it is that the steak cut fries come with a truffle aioli, and the tuna tartare a ginger mayonnaise. Little Beast also dishes up heartier specials. We haven’t tried these yet, but confess to being seriously tantalised by the photos, which are posted regularly on Little Beast’s lively Facebook page. Think more adventurous flights of fancy such as chocolate and fig foie gras terrine, or savoury corn panna cotta with chanterelle salad and brown butter vinaigrette. Backup comes from a handful of desserts (our pick: the snickerdoddle and salted caramel ice-cream sandwich) as well as malt whiskies, beers and some creative, oldworld themed cocktails.

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Oriental Residence Bangkok, 110 Wireless Rd 02-252-8001 | mandopop-bangkok.com 5pm-midnight Mandopop offers modern Chinese with a particular emphasis on elegance and technique. The steamed scallop dumplings (B160) come wrapped in the thinnest wonton, one side tinted purple with beetroot and the other green with spinach. It’s a dish with very little margin for error but the crucial scallop flavour is never overwhelmed by the seasoning. The pan-seared foie gras served with crispy duck skin (B450) is perhaps even more ambitious, served on a bed of curd and cress with a drizzle of sweet chilli and mango dressing (above right). It’s a perfect balance of flavours and textures, the velvety richness of the foie gras offset perfectly by the crunch of the duck skin, mixed in with the spice and joyous zing of the dressing. The seafood hot and sour soup (B235) is undoubtedly less innovative but still satisfying – a thick, warm broth packed with prawns, scallops, Chinese herbs and tofu. It’s remarkably filling despite a smallish serving – just watch out for the chillis. Among the main, the tenderloin beef in black pepper sauce (B550) is well-executed in its own right – the meat is tender and gives off exactly the right tangy bite that customers expect from this dish. For deserts, the yam paste with coconut cream and white gingko nuts (B150) mixes savoury sweet to winning effect, while the chilled mango pudding (B180) delivers a sensationally clean, fruity encore to an overall impressive performance.

mei jiang [MAP 8/e17] The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd 02-861-2888 | peninsula.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Open kitchens are in vogue but Mei Jiang at The Peninsula Bangkok has taken it a step further with the newly launched Chef’s Table concept. Already regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants, Mei Jiang gives customers the chance to go behind the scenes and observe their star head chef Jackie Ho prepare for an exciting dining experience. Ho delivers a set menu (B6800 or B7600 including matching tea selections) that combines strikingly elegant presentation with flavours that reveal themselves slowly but linger on the tongue. First off the line is the savoury crab claw with white custard and ginger. It’s a surprising combination that has become one of Ho’s signatures. The highlights keep coming: in sautéed prawns with black garlic and wolfberries (above), Ho combines contrasting flavours in one mouthful that also lowers cholesterol. The poached red garoupa with rice sauce and sun-dried pickles settles the stomach and Ho’s special fried rice with fresh scallops leaves the emphasis entirely on the produce. The winner, though, may still be the pan-

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Mei Jiang seared fillet of Australian beef with black pepper paste – it’s something that shows up in most Chinese restaurants but Ho has created a dish with refined, long-lasting flavour. The beef is perfectly cooked but it is the slightly fiery sauce, handed down through Ho’s family, that is truly spectacular.

european cellar 11 wine bar & bistro [MAP 3/f7]

71/1 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255-5833 cellar11.com | 6pm-midnight In this relatively sedate part of Sukhumvit Soi 11, Cellar 11 stands out invitingly, a spacious, stylishly refurbished restaurant split over two floors – three if you count the cellar below, stacked with wines from all over the world. The menu is essentially European, drawing mostly from French and Italian, neither entirely traditional nor rushing headlong into new-fangled modern techniques for the sake of it. For example, the scallop cappuccino (B580) comes with morel, champignon and porcini mushrooms. There’s a trend to match scallops with lighter flavours but the seasoning here is a reassuring return to a warmer, earthier mix. Conversely, the Toulouse foie gras (B620) is dressed with a choice of peach, raspberry or porto sauce. But it’s even more traditional fare that really impresses – the onion soup (B260) is one of the most familiar staples of any French kitchen but it is elevated here by the addition of chicken stock to add texture and a layer of gruyere cheese to add bite. Belying its simply presentation, the taste is exquisite. Similarly, the angel hair sea urchin pasta (B950) is straightforward enough but the taste of fresh sea urchin is one of the most memorable aspects of the meal. It’s this low-key attenion to detail that emerges as the hallmark of Cellar 11’s food, evident again in the duck confit (B690) that comes with crushed truffle in a pool of glorious honey thyme sauce. The rack of Australian lamb (B990) is equally impressive, crusted with herbs and served with dauphinoise and a garlic rosemary sauce. bangkok101.com

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Cellar 11

french chez pape [MAP 3/f9] 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 02-255-2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed but that’s not to say Chez Pape feels routine. Rather, there are enough surprises, both in terms of the combinations and the presentation to elevate Chez Pape’s food to something more impressive. Starting with the appetisers, there is a ceviche of barracuda in chilli and citrus (B160) or the tartare of avocado, crab and green apple (above right, B200), both hitting the right notes: light, fresh, seafood flavours offset with the right amount of seasonings. But perhaps it’s in the more provincial dishes that Chez Pape really declares its hand, offering a port-marinated foie gras terrine, served with mango marmalade (B285). The early courses are certainly impressive enough to build expectation for the mains without being so concept-heavy that they create confusion. And, indeed, the big plates tell you everything you need to know about Chez Pape’s ambitions. The pan-seared beef flank, an exquisite cut of meat, comes with goat-cheese ravioli and garnished with virgin sauce (B450) – it’s a deeply satisfying combination. Twisting the formula a little further is the duck breast served with apples, spinach and Japanese citrus dressing (B510). It’s a fine example of Chez’s Pape’s commitment to doing the inimitably French things well while borrowing and augmented with inspired touches from elsewhere.

L’appart [MAP 3/g9] 32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi 13-15 | 085-924-1565 sofitel.com | 7pm-midnight L’Appart has one of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok, embracing the aesthetic of a Parisian apartment. The cliches of restaurant decor have been thrown overboard – a meal here feels like you’ve December 2013 | 77

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listings

L’Appart

Indian

Gaggan

gaggan [MAP 8/l14]

been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s immaculately furnished penthouse with amazing views of the skyline. Chef Jeremy Tourret may be every inch the French master cook but that hasn’t prevented him taking some intriguing chances, adapting a traditional cuisine to create an adventurous, surprising menu. The absolute staples are still represented – frog legs with leek and truffle (B480) and a spectacular bouillabaisse (onion soup) with rock fish, puff Japanese pearl and rouille sauce (B550; right).Tourret has dialled down the salt for the Asian palate, with the added benefit of making room for the more complex flavours he has included. He takes it to the next step in the mains. His pan-fried snow fish comes with cauliflower mousseline and Madras curry (B1300) – that’s right, curry. In a French restaurant. It seems risky and may outrage traditionalists but it is testament to Tourret’s technique and imagination that it works – the cauliflower balances the curry so the delicate taste of the snow fish – among the best – is never overwhelmed. And while people might be unexcited by the prospect of roast chicken, it’s a different dish when it comes stuffed with goat cheese, comfit zucchini and organic tomatoes (B900).

68/1 Soi Langsuan | 02 652 1700 eatatgaggan.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm11.30pm Indian cuisine, perhaps more than any other, has been pigeonholed, locked into a narrow idea of heavy curries and spicy tandooris. Gaggan Anand, through his stunningly unique restaurant in Langsuan, makes one of the most urgent cases for these definitions to be reconsidered. Perhaps the most interesting way to experience Gaggan’s always delicious, often offbeat repertoire is through one of the tasting menus (B1600, B2600 or B4000). One of the more surprising combinations comes out relatively early – it’s called Viagra, freshly shucked French oysters served with kokam nectar and Indian mustard ice cream, and somehow works despite ingredients that don’t intuitively go together. The Egyptian Secret uses foie gras, red onion chutney and raspberry powder to equally stunning effect, the flavours so well-judged that your taste buds are pulled in different directions in one mouthful. There’s the truffle mousse with a pepper infusion and king prawns with fennel Kachumber and charcoal oil. Each dish is wildly imaginative and often hard to process initially. It’s challenging food but, one after another, they prove unerringly delicious. The Fusion Called Confusion, which combines Atlantic lobster with a coastal curry. On paper, that sounds like the lobster taste doesn’t stand a chance but, sure enough, in the mouth, they’re both there, distinctly present on different parts of the tongue.

For those who just want a damn fine curry, Gaggan has that covered as well. The apparently simple Who You Calling Chicken (B390) in fact has outstandingly refined flavour and a heart-starting pepper aftertaste.

MAYA [MAP 3/l10] 29F Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-683-4888 mayathailand.com | 5pm-1am The sparkly, expansive foyer fans out into an unusual L-shaped space, dining room in one direction, merging into a lounge bar in the other. In terms of the food, it’s modern or progressive Indian cuisine that contains more than a few surprises. First, though, the cocktails (all B295) – although the selection is a little bit on the sweet side, it’s clear that some real effort has gone into devising some interesting combinations with Indian twists. The vodka khatta pudina starts simply with a mix of vodka and guava juice before adding a dash of cumin powder, while the tamarind margarita adds an exquisite sweet-and-sour edge to the familiar base. This willingness to experiment is also borne out in the food – try the murgh chandi kebab (B380), with chicken marinated in yoghurt, cardamom and mace before being finished

Now available in Bangkok, the worlds best seafood. Come and see why Snapper is rated Bangkok’s best Fish’n’Chips

“New Zealand - taste’s as good as it looks”

THAILAND TATLER

NEW ZEALAND

BEST RESTAUR ANTS

www.snapper-bangkok.com 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Ph. 02 651-1098 78 | December 2013

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listings

Maya with edible silver leaf. Or the raan e Maya (B900 for half a leg, B1600 for the whole), which takes a baby leg of lamb coated in rum and house marinade, slow-cooked in a tandoor oven. The seabass moilee (B550) is also impressive, the fish pan-seared in gingerinfused coconut milk. The tawe ki machli (B750) offers a striking seafood counterpoint, offsetting the mild flavours of a snow fish with south Indian tomato and black olive chutney. Duck doesn’t normally get a run on an Indian menu but at Maya, the duck tikka kuti mirch (B440) marinates it in chilli flakes, garlic and sun-dried spices to delicious effect.

international CREPES & Co. [Map 8/L14] 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Road, (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) | 02-6520208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious. The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options – try the eggplant caviar – but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal after-dinner following. Or any time, for that matter. You can keep it simple by going for the Crepe Josephine (B170), which is a straightforward combination of sugar and lemon zest. But if you’ve got a major sweet tooth, you’ll probablly gravitate toward the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging invitingly with vanilla ice cream and lathered in a rich, tangy raspberry sauce. These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you have a real craving. Going down the list reveals some eye-popping desserts – try the Crepe Mango Coconut (B195), which somehow works despite the unusual pairing of fresh bangkok101.com

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Hemingway’s mango and coconut slices, or the Coupe de Fraises (B170), with strawberry, vanilla and chantilly. The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B290), which comes out rinsed in apple liqueur and filled with sautee apple and rum raisin ice cream. And then they set that baby on fire.

HEMINGWAY’S [MAP 3/J10] Sukhumvit Soi 14 | 02-653 3900 | hemingwaysbangkok.com | 11:30am-late (kitchen closes 10:45pm) Choosing Ernest Hemingway as a concept for your bar-restaurant may not be the most original idea but the archetypal He-Man is associated with so many locations – from the Spanish Civil War to hunting rhinos in the Serengeti – that he gives you plenty to play with. It’s ideal fodder to fill this sprawling 1920s-style golden teak house. Arriving from the soi, you enter the Spanish Garden with its own fountain and lanterns in the trees, and proceed through various rooms themed according to episodes from the author’s life. The Havana Bar dispenses Hemingway’s favourite spirits in generous 45ml pours; the Key West Café is a large dining area with waxed teak floors, lots of plants and period lampshades styled after oil lamps. We chose (very) dirty Tanqueray martinis from a long drink list (B195), including special cocktails (B220) and beers from their own system served at a reliable minus-two degree. There are 20 or so wines (B1000-B2400 a bottle), including eight by the glass (B150-B350). The food menu moves from bar snacks – try the tasty and tender chilli salt-fried squid with Hemingway’s own tartar sauce (B165) – through soups, entrées and New York pizzas. Among the short list of mains are sea bass with Hemingway’s oyster and absinthe broth, steamed mussels and braised lettuce (B450) and grass-fed lava coal Australia grilled sirloin with sautéed kale, hand-cut chunky fries with a choice of sauce. Finish with a very more-ish butterscotch pot au cream with hazelnut praline (B200). This is a classy venue with good drinks and upperend pub grub.

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Celebrate Christmas and New Year at Chez Papé

Festive menu specials available Christmas Eve Christmas Day New Years Eve (24th, 25th & 31st December)

& Fils n i g n Ma pagne m a h C 0 B++ 0 1 2 y l on Further details can be found on the ‘events’ page of our website www.chezpape.com Reservations Recommended

02 255 2492 0898 975282

Tel: or:

info@chezpape.com

CHEZ PAPÉ

French Bistro

Sukhumvit Soi 11

OPEN daily 5pm - 11pm

Weekend lunch 11.30am - 2.30pm

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listings seafood

Zuma

The Oyster Bar

the oyster bar [MAP 2/e11]

japanese Zuma [MAP 4/G6] Ground Fl, 159 Rajadamri Road | 02-2524707 | zumarestaurant.com | 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm The style and presentation of the dishes is unmistakably contemporary – authentic but not traditional – exemplified by a particularly snazzy range of cocktails, including the Rubabu (B295), which blends sake and vodka with fresh passionfruit. But, of course, it’s the food that really matters. Dishes come out in no precise order and can be shared or eaten individually. The technique required to execute the smaller dishes is truly impressive and, because of Zuma’s three open kitchens, customers can watch the chefs at work. There are several highlights, though, including the sliced yellowtail served with green chilli relish, ponzu and pickled garlic (B410) – the effect is stunning, a mouthful of the most delicately textured seafood packed with light but still intense flavour. No less impressive are the plates of nigiri sushi and selected sashimi (B1100) – Japanese food has become so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget how it’s meant to taste when it’s done with absolute precision and attention to detail.

395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 | 02-2124809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know the owner of a restaurant takes his seafood seriously when there are several pages of the menu devoted entirely to oysters. With Billy Marinelli, owner of the Oyster Bar in a foodie enclave of Chong Nonsi, customers are in good hands. As a seafood wholesaler, Billy has a particularly keen eye for good produce and seems less concerned with turning a profit than with running a place where he likes to eat. If you’ve brought your most serious appetite, move on to the seafood platter (B2000 for two or B3500 for four or more), offering a gorgeous pile of oysters, scallop sashimi, bay shrimp, seaweed salad, Dungeness crab, mussels, clams and caviar. The presentation is impressively straightforward, emphasising the produce without the unnecessary bells and whistles. A string of highlights follows: the seared Alaskan scallops with mango puree and pickled shallots (B450) adds a fruity tang to the soft, subtle flesh that barely needs chewing. The fish of the day will vary but it would be unwise to overlook the wild salmon (B600), served more simply but prepared with an unmistakable sense of what good salmon does in a customer’s mouth. For some diners, that may be enough but for those prepared to carry on, the rewards are well worth it. The seafood paella (main image, B600 for two) is as good at it gets, rustically presented, steaming with spices and sauce, a mountain of mixed seafood to be ladled out and shared.

snapper [MAP 3/f8] 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-1098 snapper-bangkok.com | Mon-Fri 5pm midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight Within Bangkok’s vast melting pot of international cuisines, poor old New Zealand can get overlooked, ut it ensures anyone who ventures down the sub-soi that snakes left from Cheap Charlie’s on Sukhumvit Soi 11 has a joyous discovery waiting for them. The Nelson Bay scallops, sauteed in white wine, butter and chives (B790) epitomise the approach of not masking the natural goodness of the product with a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients. That seafood taste is there in spades, along with a perfectly firm yet tender texture that identifies top-drawer seafood. They’ve got some stiff competition from the mussels, though, served as starters (B200-B300) or in a more substantial sharing platter (B480), topped with spiced tomato that offsets the ocean-infused tang without ever overwhelming it. Snapper has done its darnedest to set itself apart as serving the best fish and chips in Bangkok and it’s pretty hard to argue with the orange roughie (B480) that just comes apart effortlessly on the plate and, with a squirt of lemon, works spectacularly on the tongue.

reﬁnement complexity intrigue www.pastebangkok.com

info@pastebangkok.com PHONE +66 2 392 4313 120/6 Sukhumvit Su Soi 49 (Across from Samitivej Sukhumvit Hospital)

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Nightlife big names visit levels

There’s even more of an excuse to party midweek after Levels (6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11; 0823-083-246; facebook.com/levelsclub) announced two international acts scheduled to perform on Wednesday nights in coming weeks. On December 4, Dutch prodigy Martin Garrix turns up the heat and a week later, on December 11, Arty delivers another load of pre-Christmas cheer. See p85 for our review of Levels – it promises to be another big month to finish a blockbuster year.

live music at whisgaRs

Having quickly established a reputation for top-shelf whiskey and fine cigars, Whisgars (16 Sukhumvit Soi 23; 02-664-4252; whisgars.com) is increasingly carving out a niche for itself as a low-key live music venue. Every Friday, they host Keith Nolan’s Love Gone Wrong, a Bangkok-based blues outfit with a loyal following. It’s a perfect soundtrack for a nip or two of seriously good singlecask whiskey.

turn back the clock at q bar

Q Bar (34 Sukhumvit Soi 11; 02-252-3274; qbarbangkok.com) last month established a new event on the last Friday of each month, letting DJ Darren Mac, Kimball Collins, and Mikey Mike loose with a crate of their favourite house classics. It’s B600 but that includes two drinks so why not work off some of that Christmas dinner – or even pop the champagne on New Year’s Eve early – by heading down to Q Bar and turning back the clock?

end the year in style

If you haven’t already made plans for New Year’s Eve, you could do a lot worse that grab a ticket to the Queen’s Park Tower’s (199 Sukhumvit Soi 22; 02-261-9000; imperialhotels.com) roof top party. It’s one of the biggest parties in Bangkok, with a stacked DJ roster and the requisite fireworks display at midnight. Entry is B1800 or you can splash out a little further and head to the Altitude VIP Lounge – B2900 gets you pre-cocktails and free flow of all beverages from 9pm-11.30pm at Kacho Bar.

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review

WALK - High-fashion ambitions -

t’s been a while since rooftop bars were strictly limited to the banks of the Chao Praya, to the gleaming skyscrapers dotted around Sathorn and Silom. Indeed, they’ve already spread far and wide, allowing drinkers to admire the capital’s skyline from several different corners. And now, with the opening of Walk atop the Centara Watergate Pavillion, just north of Petchaburi Road, the rooftop bar conquers yet another frontier. Walk – named to reflect its high-fashion ambitions – is certainly sleek enough and well-lit enough to resemble a runway, its hard lines and glowing surfaces making the most immediate impact. Set back from the square bar that occupies pride of place, sofas line the perimeter, attracting a young, chatty crowd, a mixture of locals and visitors. When it comes to the cocktails, Walk doesn’t pull its punches, embracing a chilli theme wholeheartedly. Spice is no guarantee to work in a cocktail – it’s a powerful flavour that isn’t necessarily easy to balance, which is what drinkers expect from a quality cocktail. At Walk, the addition of chilli works best in when it is properly leavened by lighter, fruitier flavours. For example, the Spicy Mojito (all B300) blends Havana Club, cane sugar, mint leaves, lime and soda water. The chilli provides an explosive first mouthful but the drink’s base then delivers a subtler second and third stage. Equally, with the Tom Khar Martini, white rum and Malibu are offset by the coconut rum and galangal – it

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works surprisingly well, given galangal is not an easy ingredient to bring into a cocktail. Once you’ve built up an appetite over a few cocktails, it’s worth exploring the bar snacks. The vegetable samosas with mango chutney and yoghurt dip (B180) offer a satisfying mouthful with a few different flavours in play, while the Vietnamese spring rolls (B150) have that fresh, clean taste. If you’re after a more substantial meal, try the Thai-style fish and chips (B150), a red snapper served with chilli. The adventurous seafood continues with the coconut prawns with sweet chilli (B450), combining coconut and vanilla with a prawn that has some impressive colour. And, of course, it’s hard to resist a wonton, served here with pork and lemongrass (B180). As a new arrival, Walk is still building its crowd and exploring its concept but already offers a distinct take on the rooftop bar.

walk

[MAP 4/g1]

567 Rachaprarop Rd | 02-625-1234 cwb@chr.co.th | 5pm-1am

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review

LEVELS - Perfect for a big night -

f all the venues of Sukhumvit Soi 11, Levels has benefited the most from the closure earlier this year of Bed Supperclub. Great swathes of that clientele now overflow to the other side of the soi, making Levels one of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok, on any night of the week. At many popular clubs in Bangkok, the crowd quickly finds a familiar groove, attracting one particular kind of revellers that old hands can identify fairly quickly – whether that’s the tourists passing through on the way to the beach or the slightly more clued-up locals returning to a favourite haunt. At Levels, though, it’s much harder to categorise – there’s a welcome mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of Levels’ buzzy atmosphere. Levels does get pretty busy and, given it’s a few storeys up, customers have to enter via an elevator. So it pays to show up early. Once inside, there’s a choice of four distinct areas. The balcony bar is semi-enclosed, allowing drinkers a birdseye view of Soi 11, although the comfy seating is hotly contested. Through the glass doors, the main bar and dancefloor are all flashes of glamour and high ceilings, with a circular bar in the middle of it all. If you’ve got a group, it pays to grab one of the booths to one side and grab a bottle because, once Levels really starts pumping post-midnight, it gets crowded. The cocktails veer toward

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the familiar but are, overall, well-executed and with enough variety to keep most groups happy. Nightclubs can fall into the trap of assuming only women drink cocktails but Levels is astute enough to include some alternatives for men who don’t necessarily want to drink something pink and fruity all night. Moving further through, an upstairs area offers a less crowded option – it’s a perfect spot to take in the entire scene below. On the bottom floor, beyond the main bar is a smaller dancefloor that specialises in harder house music and more intense beats. Levels has been open for just over one year now and is really hitting its straps, while retaining the broad, friendly appeal that has already delivered a particularly loyal clientele. It’s a winner for visitors looking for a big night out or for long-term Soi 11 watchers tempted to return.

levels

[MAP 3/f8]

6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0823-083-246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am

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listings

Bash

Nightclubs BASH [ma p 3/F8] 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (entrance next to the Australian Pub | bashbangkok.com Midnight-very late Open till “very late”, Bash is brash. American owner Daryl Scott, a well-known club scene figure, has spliced strands of global clubbing DNA with the usually sleazy after-hours club concept. There are burlesque dancers ranging from midgets and robots on stilts to cross-dressing whacker Pan Pan (the shows bring to mind risqué superclub Manumission at times); the fixtures and furniture are of the very glam sort (gleaming Louis IX furniture, etc); and the DJs are often big names. Head up the stairs lined with misshapen mirrors and you’ll find three floors of fun, two of them taken up by the main room and the mezzanine which overlooks it.

Funky Villa [MAP 3/R1] Thong Lor Soi 10 | 08-5253-2000 | 6pm-2am The name Funky Villa conjures images of roller-blading babes in bikinis, all partying at a Hugh Hefner-owned villa in the Med. The reality’s different. Steer your way through the fairground-sized car park, past the BMWs and chic lounge-deck area, and you’ll hit a swish one-storey house, more posh than funky. Some of Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls around in the front room; but most hit the fridge-cool dancehall to boogie away the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs. Forget about edgy sounds – here it’s all about getting down with the CEOs of tomorrow.

MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4] President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd mixxdiscotheque.com | B350 | 10pm-late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked 86 | DECEMBER 2013

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out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, as long as things go smoothly, the chance to party until nearly sunrise.

Q Bar

THE CLUB [Map 7/F 5] 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 02-629-1010 theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am B 100 (incl. one drink) The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret lend a fairytale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to mid 1990s psy-trance raves. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, usually cranium-rattling electro house and techno. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.

Q BAR [Map 3/C4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with big name international DJs appearing regularly. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife twelve years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now, there’s more room to dance and more lounge space, especially at QUP, the more downtempo upstairs area. Also, out the back of the venue, through a revolving door from the dance floor, you can find your way into Le Derriere, Q Bar’s very own Parisianstyle absinthe bar that is perfect for chilling out and chasing the green fairy.

hotel bars & clubs BARSU [map 3/F6] 1st F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250, Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals

to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, there are five live bands for each night of the week. Comprised of students from Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Jazz, Tenon Round’ are a gifted young quartet who perform every Tuesday from 8.30 to 10.30pm. The other bands, JazzPlayground, P.O.8, Rhythm Nation and Hot Gossip, play from Wednesday to Saturday respectively. In between sets, tuck into their ‘Goong goong goong’ menu, combining fresh prawns with a variety of international flavours.

CM2 [map 4/D5] Novotel Siam Square, 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 02-209-8888 | cm2bkk. com | 10pm-2am The Novotel Siam Square Hotel’s subterranean party cave still packs them in sixteen years after it first opened, especially on weekends when it heaves with tourists and nocturnal beauties. The big and quite 1980s disco looking (black and metal and neon lighting rule) complex has lots of lounging space facing the dance floor, plus a sports bar with pool tables, smoking room, and an Absolut Vodka Lounge. It’s mainstream all the way. DJs play what the crowd wants, when they want it, usually the latest electro, funky house or hip-grinding R&B tune, while the live bands from Canada, Europe and Asia perform as if every song is a potentially lifechanging audition. Currently that includes the impressive Crush Crew, who perform their renditions of modern hip-hop, R&B and other charting hits.

spasso [MAP 8/l13] Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajadamri Road | 02-254-1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm2.30am There’s no shortage of hotel bars in Bangkok but Spasso, on the ground floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan has been around for 21 years and remains a favourite bangkok101.com

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listings

Heaven

and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on. Tip: choose a seat on the north side – it gets windy to the south. There’s a great view, an impressive cocktail list and an electro soundtrack.

heaven [MAP 8/k13]

among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it presents as a sedate Italian restaurant but after hours, after it transforms into a club and cocktail bar, it really hits its stride, revelling in its energetic, uninhibited atmosphere. The layout is unconventional – an open-plan foyer and dining area narrows into a dancefloor, flanked by two horseshoe-shaped bars. It has the effect of funnelling all the action between the bars and on to the dancefloor. Spasso is not so much for Bangkok scenesters – its selling point is that it’s slightly wild and the live band does its best to whip partygoers into even higher spirits.

Bars with views Above Eleven [MAP 3/C4] 33rd Fl Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-207-9300 aboveeleven.com | 6pm-2am A west-facing 33rd floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, Above Eleven is a winning combination. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas

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F20, Zen @ Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-100-9000 | heaven-on-zen.com Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am It’s heavily dependent on the weather as the design offers precious little protection but on a warm Bangkok night, when the golden backdrop of its feature bar lights up like a metal sun, it feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital. Crucially, they’ve got the cocktails (all B280-B320) right, using a well-chosen blend of spirits without going overboard and trying to cram every drink with one too many flavours. The Surreal Seduction – slightly cheesey name but we’ll forgive it because it tastes good – combines vodka, apple liqueur, elderflower syrup and pear puree. It’s super fruity but apple liqueur is one of the more versatile, underused ingredients in cocktails and it sets off the others in a way that’s refreshing but still carries a kick.

MOON BAR [Map 5/K8] 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect

Nest spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too.

NEST [Map 3/C4] 9th F, Le Fenix, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 02-305-4000 | lefenixsukhumvit.com 5pm-2am An all-white and urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, Nest is a loungey and laid-back spot on weekdays and early evenings, with couples enjoying signature martinis and upmarket nibbles from the comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially during special party nights. These include Mode, a shindig every second Saturday of the month that pumps hip-hop and house beats rather than the usual smooth Balearic sounds. What are the views alike? With buildings looming above you, not below you, here you feel part of the cityscape.

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ANY NIGHT

OF THE

WEEK The Sound, The City, The Sky

Stay in touch for exclusive offers Monday

Tuesday

Wednesday

Thursday

Friday

Saturday

Sunday

Brand Night

One Drink is Never Enough

Diva Night

Frequency US House Music

Fizz Friday

Dance Sky High

City Sets 49

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Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57

Reservations+66 (0) 2 797 0400

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listings

Red Sky

RED SKY [Map 4/F 3] 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 02-100-1234 centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm-1am Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slowcooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. It’s not cheap, but the daily happy hours (buy one get one drink on selected wine, beer and cocktails from 5pm-7pm).

SKY BAR / DISTIL [map 5/C5] 63rd F, State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd 02-624-9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Sky bar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city

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and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seafood eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 sports yet another stunning view from the 51st – 52nd floors. These places are definitely not spots for the casual beach bum, so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart casual dress code is enforced.

threeSixty [map 5/b2] Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd 02-442-2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am High above the glittering lights of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River, ThreeSixty is the only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire, dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, all year round. A private glass lift takes guests all the way up to the 32nd floor which boasts panoramic vistas from its 130m tall, circular lounge. Guests can feast on a range of miniature culinary experiences, from foie gras to caviar or risotto, or sip on fine wines and cocktails as the sun sets in a blaze of colour behind Wat Arun. Just as gently, the soft lounge lights come on to create an atmosphere of casual intimacy. As the first stars appear, the city’s coolest jazz sounds will set the mood which true aficionados will not be able to resist.

woo bar [map 5/g7] W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 02-344-4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok Sun-Wed 9am-1am, Thurs-Sat 9am-2am Located on the ground floor of the

Three Sixty W Hotel, Woo Bar has all of the flair and emphasis on design that has come to characterise the hotel franchise. It’s chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, spacious enough to find a seat without being echoey and without atmosphere. And, most importantly, the cocktails pass with flying colours, some inventive signature drinks rubbing shoulders with well-executed standard tipples. The Bliss (B325), which comes from the bartenders at W Hotel in New York, combines Ciroc vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, mint and fresh ginger. You might struggle to stop at just one.

BARS THE ALCHEMIST [map 3/e8] 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 083-549-2055 Facebook: thealchemistbkk | Tue-Sun 5pmmidnight Fitting somewhere between Soi 11’s swank cocktail bars and the rickety dive bar aesthetic of the legendary Cheap Charlie’s, which it neighbours, The Alchemist is a stylishly stripped down drinking hole.

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listings Apoteka

Nothing more, nothing less. We approve, and so too, it seems, do the punters. Not only does it attract the spill-over from Cheap Charlie’s, it also draws a loyal crowd of its own, who savour the intimate atmosphere, occasional live music, proper his and her toilets (Cheap Charlie’s are infamous for their dinginess) and, above all, drinks prices. Currently rocking the drinks list are assorted martinis (dry, passionfruit and espresso), classic cocktails, random shooters, and some of the best mojitos you’ll find on this end of Sukhumvit.

Apoteka [map 3/e8] 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 090-626-7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight As you may have guessed, the name is based on an outdated word for pharmacist and the place is meant to emulate a 19th century apothecary. Unsurprisingly, it has an old-school feel and an awesome live up of live music. There are high ceilings, red brick walls and Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde being projected onto the wall. Indoor seating is a mix of tall tables with studded chairs, and long tables for larger groups along the

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main wall. Large cases filled with vintagecoloured bottles of medicine flank the bar. The outdoor seating is mellow – a wooden patio with some cozy furniture that could be a nice place to curl up on a date or meet some friends for a smoke and a beer. Drink selection includes a nice selection of beer (the Framboise Ale at B250 is delightful), Heineken for just B135, and custom cocktails cost you B230. Keep your eyes peeled for the whisky and cigar lounge: a room hidden off to the side of the staircase. With muted green brocade on the walls, low leather couches, and Johnnie Walker in glass cases, this space is available for private parties or just chill sessions.

Badmotel [MAP 3/R6] 331/4-5 Soi Thong Lor | 02-712-7288 5pm-1am | facebook.com/badmotel The name Badmotel may conjure up something kitsch and grimy but, in fact, this three-floor bar and restaurant is extremely sparsely decorated and painted a bright white, giving it the feel of a pre-decorated house. The top two floors can feel a little lacking in atmosphere, especially if it’s a quiet night, but the ground floor’s buzzing bar and tree-lined garden make a very pleasant spot to sip on the venue’s ‘Creation Cocktails’, all B220. The imaginative drinks menu includes locally inspired must-tries like the Hahaha Martini (made from Ketel vodka, homemade chilli liqueur, galangal, cumin powder and pickled grapes), Teenager’s Iced Tea (made using traditional Thai tea with four sprits and liqueur) and the Never Say Never (a rumbased cocktail served with Thai dessert condiments).

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Barley Bistro

BARLEY BISTRO [map 5/h5] 4/F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 087-033-3919 5pm-late | barleybistro.com Hidden up some stairs at the Food Channel, an enclave of franchise-like restaurants, Barley Bistro is slick and snazzy. The design is chic (blacks and greys, white-on-black stencil art); the drinks funky (lychee mojitos, testtube cocktails etc); the food new-fangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the clientele wholesome (Thai office workers mostly). Do check out the open-air rooftop. It’s littered with cooling fans, huge bean bags and funky barleystalk sculptures and good for postwork/ pre-club cocktails.

BREW [map 3/Q6] Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 02-185-2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am It wasn’t so long ago that the beer selection here was comprised entirely of the ubiquitous local lagers and the Heinekens and Carlsbergs of this world. The fact that it doesn’t anymore is largely thanks to Chris Foo, the owner of this beer bar tucked away on the ground floor of Thonglor Soi 13’s happening mini-mall Seenspace.

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listings have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home.

CHEAP CHARLIE’S [map 3/D6]

Cheap Charlie’s Depending on what time of year it is, Brew stocks between 140 and 170 bottles of ales, lagers, ciders, you name it. Currently, the setting in which you sip them is hip in Thonglor circles. That’s not so much down to Brew’s tiny interior, with its exposed piping and bar flanked by kegs of beer and brick walls, as the buzzing outdoor area it shares with futuristic cocktail bar Clouds and the nautically themed Fat’r Gutz.

CAFÉ TRIO [map4 / H6] 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-252- 6572 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sun of the month Cafe Trio is just about the only bar worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Tucked down a narrow alley just off the upmarket residential street, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars – a true neighbourhood place. Cafe Trio overflows with plush couches, the lighting delightfully soft, the music always subdued. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and has plastered the walls with her Modiglianiesque, Vietnamese inspired paintings –

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Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little sub-soi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed nightspots Q Bar and other newer spots.

FIVE Gastronomy & Mixology [MAP 3/O9]

Room 103, K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26 088-524-5550 | facebook.com/fivebkk 6pm-1am Five brings a welcome wand blast of gothic whimsy to K Village, an otherwise aesthetically uninspiring community mall. Its owner, Pattriya Na Nakorn, invited bar entrepreneur Ashley Sutton to work his magic with a vacant plot on the ground floor. And, completing her dream team is Joseph Boroski, the same New York based cocktail ‘mixologist’ that Sutton uses. His bars always engage the day-reamy part of your brain and this black magic themed one is no different. It’s full of clanking pulleys, iron piping and flickering candles. Indeed, even the staff look like they’ve stumbled off the set of a Harry Potter movie.

Hyde & Seek

HYDE & SEEK [Map 4/L5] 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee 02-168-5152 | 11am-1am | hydeandseek.com This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pickmeup cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgian-influenced décor has paneled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini-maze of tea plants.

maggie choo’s [MAP 5/c5] Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd 02-635-6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos Tues-Sun 6pm-2am From the Victorian steam-punk of Iron Fairies to the eco-futurism of Clouds, Aussie

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www.newyearseveinbangkok.com

For more information and reservations, please call 02 261 9000 ext. 4162

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listings

Maggie Choo’s

gastrobar Hyde and Seek. Their ‘Rough Cut’ Signatures, many of them underpinned with rum come in slightly cheaper than over at Hyde & Seek, B250.

Water Library @ Grass

entrepreneur Ashley Sutton has already proved himself as the Terry Gilliam of Bangkok’s bar world, conjuring up drinking hole after drinking hole shot through with a magical realist quality. Maggie Choo’s, with its decadent atmosphere redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens, is no different. Clomp down the staircase and you find yourself in a noodle bar. One that could pass for an old Shaw Brothers movie set. The main decoration – and they are just decoration – are the leggy cabaret girls.

VIVA AVIV [map 5/C2] River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 02-639-6305 vivaaviv.com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade, inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic look, the bar was initially looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular

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Grass Thong Lor, 264/1 Thong Lor Soi 12 02-714-9292 | Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am Aside from its upmarket, inventive set menu dining on the first floor restaurant, The Water Library also has three lounge and wine bar areas downstairs with funky food, cocktails and live music at not audacious prices. A set menu of three cocktails paired with tapas bites at B790 is a pleasant surprise to many, and their wine list starts at a mere B900 a bottle. Water Library is one-to-watch on the regional drinking and dining scene. The very talented mixologist Mirko Gardelliano was Germany’s Cocktail Champion in 2003, while the wine bar chef Urs Lustenberger worked with Michelin three star chef Juan Amador.

LIVE MUSIC ADHERE the 13TH [Map 7/G3] 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) 089-769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ’em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’.

Viva Aviv

COSMIC CAFE [Map 8/Q12] RCA Block C | Rama IX Rd | MRT Rama 9 The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café serves up a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in a grungy, open-sided corner bar with outdoor seating and a small dance floor. On one night you might the place jumping to a rare live performance by mor lam legend Dao Bandon, on another a house band dishing out some surf guitar, ska, electronic or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it draws a lively, musically discerning crowd.

TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY [MAP 2/E11]

462/61 Rama III Rd | 02-678-1114 tawandang.co.th The one place that every taxi driver seems to know, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall packs in the revelers nightly. They come for the towers of micro-brewed beer, the Thai, Chinese and German grub (especially the deep-fried pork knuckle and sausage), and, not least, the famous Fong Nam houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by 10pm the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt.

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painkiller Words by Gaby Doman

enguin-print jumpers, patterned shorts, buttoned-up shirts and checked jackets. Are we seeing a trend yet, Bangkok? Painkiller Atelier is responsible for dressing some of the country’s most stylish gents and its autumn-winter collection – particularly the penguin print jumper – has been regular sighted on the chests of the famous and well-dressed in Thailand. Yes, it seems the cutesy trend of slapping an animal on a top has over spilled from the women’s market into the men’s. Add in a few checked jackets and you’ve got the start of a very familiar formula among Thailand’s designers. But, thankfully, penguin jumper aside, Painkiller Atelier’s autumn-winter collection is rather lovely and, quite frankly, it’s a shame the boring penguin jumper took the limelight when the over-sized check dove grey suit with nipped-in ankles is far more eye-catching and bold. Playing around with the cut of a suit and managing to achieve something beautiful and desirable is no mean feat and is the crowning glory of the collection. Sticking an animal on a jumper? Not so much. The smart-casual collection has an air of femininity and more than a hint of sports luxe about it; there’s a relaxed utilitarian feel throughout the collection, beginning with the sportswear-cut suit jackets with slouchy pockets and continuing with tapered trousers with elasticated ankles, plenty of loose-fitting layers and a few 90s-style graphic prints which all nod to Y-3 for inspiration. The colour palette is equally practical, with soft greys, whites and duck egg blues making up the bulk of the collection, with a few pinks and yellows in the mix, making the entire range into a capsule wardrobe you can mix and match with ease. The women’s collection plays a supporting role to the men’s, with less focus on design and more focus on complementing the men’s range; there’s a crowd-pleasing women’s penguin jumper, of course, a sporty checked grey shirt dress and some oversized dresses; a Painkiller Atelier woman is a woman who’s not too concerned with accentuating her shape but rather making her fella look co-ordinated.

available at: 3F Siamcenter (Rama 1 Rd; 02-658-1145) painkillerbkk.wordpress.com

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SHOPPING

unique jj gemboutique

somnuk lamp This month’s JJ Gem started out selling old, King Rama V-era glass lamps to collectors at Bangkok’s Sanam Luang, the public green in front of the Grand Palace. But when demand for these illuminating antiques based on European or Moroccan designs outstripped supply, the owners moved into making reproductions instead. Today, Somnuk Lamp is where JJ-goers head to add an elegant, old-world glow and brassy finish to their home or business, with fauxantique, factory-made lamps of all shapes, patterns, hues and sizes dangling chaotically from its rafters. There are also freestanding table-lamps and wall-lamps on sale, as well as a selection of mock-vintage home decor items, like shelf brackets, mirrors, door knobs, brass fans and fully functioning gramophones. Local or international shipping is available, but only for wholesale orders.

somnuk lamp JJ Market : Section 1, Soi 36/1 lock 146-147 084-015-3273 | jrdlamp.com

Jatujak Market

Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix. 98 | DECEMBER 2013

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> The Jatujak market of Bangkok Amber House Books | hardcover | B1,950

The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual inter pretation of Bangkok’s world-famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. bangkok101.com

12/2/13 3:01 PM

unique boutique

SHOPPING

Apostrophe’S

Riechers Marescot pour Carven 78184.1/90 pétrole

magine yourself walking through a desolated tract with a searing heat sapping away your strength – what more could one wish for other than a life-saving oasis to build up your crumbling vitality? The urban oasis and eco-friendly shopping community Rain Hill on Sukhumvit Road 47 promises to be such a safe haven for the inner-city dwellers and hardcore shoppers of Bangkok. Once you’re inside this fertile ground, one can stumble upon many quirky shops at the back of this lifestyle sanctuary. Its clean architectural design is complemented by refreshing water features throughout and Rain Hill also houses a tiny shop called Apostrophe’S. This eccentric store offers a variety of exclusive items, which are carefully selected, arranged and brought over from Japan, Korea and designed by product-designer and shop owner Chanida Oradeedonseth. Apostrophe’S holds a diverse collection of stationery, cups, clothing, pillows, bags and other peculiar exclusive stuff one can pick up for an affordable price. Despite its size, the shop has plenty of eye goodies that won’t bore. Apostrophe’S has plenty to offer and will surely suit everybody with a preference for simplistic yet sophisticated taste. For those who are looking for a truly unique boutique in Bangkok during your shopping spree, don’t overlook this tiny treasure trove because you might miss out on an oasis in a desert. It’s within walking distance of BTS Phrom Phong so stop in to quench your shopping thirst and get out of the heat.

come share with us the joy of buying fabrics ... be it for a glamorous wedding occasion, a celebratory evening dinner or cocktail party or for a stylish everyday wear ... ----- new arrivals - every 2 weeks! ----find us at: gandhiplus c025 2nd fl china world bangkok cynosure a002 g fl china world bangkok 0900-1830 mon-sun tel: 02-2252002 02-2224962 gandhi 326 phahurat road bangkok 0900-1800 mon-sun tel: 02-2255997 02-2255503 www.gandhi.co.th

Apostrophe’S [MAP 3/P10] Level 1, Rain Hill, Sukhumvit Soi 47 | 081-818-2336 Facebook: ApostropheS.BKK | Mon-Sun 10:30am-10pm bangkok101.com

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treatment

WELLN ESS

relaxation is on the menu

he best spas have one thing in common: you feel more relaxed the moment you arrive. The ability to subliminally relax customers, even before the treatment begins, is central to their success and popularity. And Thai spas seem to have a preternatural ability to do this more effectively than others – Le Spa at Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit is no exception. Everything from the softly spoken staff, the traditional but low-key decor and the soothing whistle of the house music combines for a pleasant effect. In terms of the treatments, there’s a more expansive choice than at most places. It’s structured like a restaurant menu, divded into starters, main and desserts – as well as specials. Within that, there are ‘revisited classics’, ‘international favourites’ and ‘local specialities’. As usual, the prices vary depending on how long you have to spare and self-indulgent you’re feeling. You can get a Swedish massage (B2500 for 60 min) or go all the way with a French Silhouette treatment designed to reshape your physique (B17,300) over six sessions. For men, the Desktop Recovery (B2500 for 60 min) is a wonderfully effective stress relief, restoring energy through all over muscle-kneading and the use of warm herbal cushions.

le spa

[MAP 8/n14]

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd 02-126-9999 | sofitel-sukhumvit.com

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Wat Mangkon Kamalawat

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RAIL

Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B 39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th

SKYTRAIN (BTS)

Airport Rail Link

The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B 15 to B 55; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central

railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT

RIVER

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B 9 to B 32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30 am and 6 pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B 3.

CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B 9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.

ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B 5 and B 7.50 – B 23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, bangkok101.com

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A 28 km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain. One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150.

motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should be negotiated beforehand.

TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered,

air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B 35 (for the first 2 kms) and the fare climbs in B 2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B 5 or B 10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B 50 surcharge is added.

TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B 40. December 2013 | 103

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Map 1 Greater Bangkok A

Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya Map 2 >

L MYANMAR

Uthai Thani

UTHAI THANI

CHAI NAT

Chiang Mai

LOP BURI

Nakhon Ratchasima c

Nakhon Ratchasima

Pattaya CAMBODIA Koh Samet Koh Chang

NAKHON RATCHASIM A

SARABURI

Andaman Sea

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Koh Samui

AYUTTHAYA

Phuket

PATHUM THANI 5

RATCHABURI

MALAYSIA

PRACHIN BURI

f c

VIETNAM

Gulf of Thailand

Krabi

NAKHON NAYOK

NAKHON PATHOM

Ubon

Bangkok

ANG THONG

KANCHANABURI

Udon Thani

Lop Buri

Kanchanaburi

LAOS

THAILAND

SING BURI

SUPHAN BURI

SA KAEO

BANGKOK f a

SAMUT SAKHON

CHACHOENGSAO

SAMUT

1 PRAKAN

SAMUT SONGKHRAM

CA M BODI A CHON BURI

Phetchaburi

Ko Sichang

PHETCHABURI 8

Pattaya RAYONG

Cha-am

CHANTHABURI

Rayong Hua Hin

Ko Samet

Muang Chantaburi

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN 10

Trat

Gulf of Thailand

M YA N M A R

Ko Chang

Prachuap Khiri Khan

Ko Kut

20 km 20 miles Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border

104 | December 2013

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Sightseeing a

Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park

floating Markets Damnoen Saduak 2 Amphawa 1

Museums 1

Erawan Museum 2 House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods

night bazaar 1

Asiatique The Riverfront [free shuttle boat from Sathorn pier everyday 4.00-11.30 pm.]

Nightlife 1 2

Parking Toys Tawandang German

Hotels 1 Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort and Spa

bangkok101.com

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Nâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;

Tanya Tanee

PAK KRET

Don Mueng

Don Mueng Int. Airport

Ko Kret

Sai Mai

Royal Irrigation Dept.

Lak Si

Rajpruek

The Legacy

Northpark

Khlong Sam wa

Royal Thai Army Sport Center

Thanont

Chatuchak Bang Sue

Bang Phlat

Bueng Kum

Huai Khwang

Saphan Sung

Bang Kapi

Pathumwan

Bangkok Yai Wongwian Yai

Bang Rak

Khlong San *

Thon Buri 1

Chom Thong

Bang Kholaem

Lat Krabang

Suan Luang

Khlong Toei

Sathorn

60 Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park th

Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande

Watthana

Lumpini

Wang Thong lang

DinDaeng Ratchathewi

Mini Buri

Navatanee

Phayathai

Taling Chan

Khan na Yao

Mo Chit

Dusit

Bangkok Noi

Panya Indra

Lat Phrao

Chatuchak

Bang Sue

Bang Bon

Bang Khen

MUENG NONTHABURI

Phasi Charoen

Prawet Yan 2 Nawa

Rat Burana

Phra Khanong 4

Phra Pradaeng

Suan Luang Rama IX

Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport

Bang Na

Summit Windmill

Bearing

Bang Khun Thian

Mueang Kaew

Thung Khru

Green Valley

PHRA SAMUT CHEDI

SAMUT PRAKAN

Bangpoo

Gulf of Thailand

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Map 3 Sukhumvit Road A

Phra Ram 9

Ram

a IX

Roya

m9 Prara ital Hosp

l Cit

y Ave

RC A ange R ing

Driv

Din

kam

phae

ng P

het 7

Phet

Uthai

Ital Thai

ad) Phe

Makkasan

tcha

Stat

2nd

Phetchaburi

buri

ro (Toll Expy

38/1

het

Prasanmit

So i4 9

Su 9/1 3

hro m Ph on g

Soi

Subway Line Railway

106 | December 2013

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Arts & Culture 1

Japan Foundation 2 Koi Art Gallery

Sukhumvit

malls 1 2

Robinsons Terminal 21 bangkok101.com

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Sukhu

BTS Sukhumvit Line

Emporium

Soi 24

BTS Silom Line

Markets

Sukhumwit

Tai

ana

s re

Canal Boat

Conrad Bangkok Sheraton Grande 3 Seven 4 JW Marriot 5 Rembrandt 6 Four Points 7 Aloft Sukhumvit 11 8 Ramada Encore 9 Imperial Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit

Marriott Executive 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta Sukhumvit Park 12 Grande Centre Point 5 TCDC (Thailand Terminal 21 Creative & Design 13 Sofitel Bangkok Centre 6 Nang Kwak Sukhumvit 14 Le Fenix 7 WTF 15 Radisson Sukhumvit 8 The Pikture Gallery 15 Marriott Bangkok 9 We*Do Gallery 10 RMA Sukhumvit

i 39

wit

h ko

300 m 1 328 ft

it So

umw

wit

Benjasiri Park

Phrom Phong

Benjakiti Park

Hotels

Phro

Sukh

i 33

15 13

Soi 35

it So

Soi

i 29

14 NO

Sukhumwit

umw

wit

it So

hum

Sukh

Suk

umw

i 27

Soi

Sukh

it So

Asok 16

ale

1 6

umw

Sukh

Soi

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hum

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14 35 31 38 39 26 2 15 7 32 29

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kasa

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ai 22

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Soi N

Camillian Hospital

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ai 21

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Soi Tho

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Suk

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wit

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Phra Khanong

Suk

Soi

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Suk

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Sukhum

Soi 28

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wit

Soi

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Suk

Soi

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7 19

wit

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Sukhumwit

Soi 26

Soi 24

Sukhumwit

3 5

Sukhumwit

Benjasiri Park

Suk

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Phrom Phong

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it So

Suk

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Soi 35

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Sukh

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Sukhumwit

Sukh

Clubs 1

Q Bar Bed Supperclub 3 Insomnia 10 Glow 24 Demo 26 Levels 27 Funky Villa 2

pubs 11

The Hanrahans The Pickled Liver 13 The Robin Hood

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The Royal Oak The Londoner 16 Black Swan 15

Nightlife 4

Long Table 5 Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Barsu 19 WTF 17 Alchemist 18 Club Perdomo

The Iron Fairies

21 Clouds

Fat Gut'z Shades of Retro 25 diVino 28 Le Bar de L'Hotel 29 W XYZ 30 Face Bar 31 Marshmallow 32 Oskar Bistro 33 Tuba 34 Sonic 35 Apoteka 36 Water Library 23

Gossip Bar

Above Eleven

38 Nest

Embassies IN

India

IR Iran LK

Sri Lanka

PH Philippines

Qatar Ukraine NO Norway QA UA

December 2013 | 107

12/2/13 3:00 PM

Map 4 Siam / Chit Lom A

5 Soi 3

Soi 25

Soi 29

Soi Tonson

Soi Lang Suan

Ratchadamri

Henri Dunant

Soi 5

Soi 4

Soi11

Soi 3

Soi10

Soi 2

Soi 1

Soi 6

Soi Lang Suan1

Soi Nai Lert

Soi 2 Soi 3

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Soi 4

Soi 3

Ratchadamri

Soi Sukhumvit 1

Rud

uam

NZ QA

Soi R

Soi Mahatlek Luang 3

Th. Witthayu

Soi Mahatlek Luang 2

mvit

Soi Mahatlek Luang1

Phloen Chit 16

hith

Soi 8

ukhu

Phaya Thai

Phloen Chit

Chit Lom

ng P

Rajamangala University

g 11 7

Soi S

2 c

Dua

Soi 7

Soi 9

Siam 16 Siam Square

Witthayu

c 10 11

Soi Som Khit

Nai Lert Park

w ress

4 e 3

Soi Chit Lom

Wat Pathum Wanaram

Ratchaprarop

Soi Ruam Rudi

Soi 23

Soi 27

Soi 32

Soi 19

Soi 15

Soi 31 Soi 33

Exp

Soi Kaesem San1

Chit Lom

ohn Nak

Soi Kaesem San 2

Witthayu Bridge

h 14 b

c 2

National Stadium

Soi 17

Prathunam

Rama I 5

Saeb

Srapathum Palace

lerm

Khlong San

Hua Chang Bridge

Soi 30

Soi 20

Ratchathewi

uri

Cha

Phetchaburi Soi 18

Phetchab

Soi 22

Soi 13

Soi 4

Soi 5

Chulalongkorn University Area

Hotels 1

200 m 1 000 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market

Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate 6 Novotel Platinum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan 8 The Four Seasons 9 The St. Regis 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 15 Hotel Muse 16 Okura Prestige

Arts & Culture 1

BACC – Bangkok Art and Culture Centre 2 Tonson Gallery

Sarasin

Soi 6 Soi Ruam Rudi

Soi 7

Sarasin Lumphini Park

Sightseeing

malls

Embassies

MBK 2 Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza 6 Platinum Fashion Mall 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen @ CentralWorld 9 Pratunam Center 10 Gaysorn 11 Erawan Plaza 12 The Peninsula Plaza 13 Amarin Plaza 14 Central Chidlom 15 All Seasons Place

Jim Thomson House b Museum of Imagery Technology c Madame Tussauds d Queen Savang Vadhana Museum e Siam Ocean World f Ganesha and Trimurti Shrine g Erawan Shrine h Goddess Tubtim Shrine

Nightlife a CM2 b

Red Sky Bar Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar d P&L Club e Café Trio f Hyde & Seek c

Switzerland

BR Brazil FI Finnland ID Indonesia KH Cambodia NL Netherlands NZ

New Zealand

QA Quatar UA Ukraine UK

United Kingdom

US USA VN Vietnam

Shopping 16 17

Siam Square Pratunam Market

108 | December 2013

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12/2/13 3:00 PM

Silom / Sathorn Map 5 E

kho

t are akh

ai Th aya

ong

t nan nr y He

8 Than Tawan Soi 6

Lumpini Park

Sala Daeng l St. Joseph School

Convent

Soi Phra Phinit

Suan Phlu Soi 1

Silom 14 CA

Sala Daeng 1/1

Sala Daeng 1

Suan Phlu – Sathron Soi 3

Thaniya

Soi 5

Soi 7

Soi 9

Soi 11 Yaek 3

Soi 6

Soi 8

Soi 14

or n S oi 1 1

Soi 4

Patpong 1 Patpong 2

Chulalongkorn Hospital

5 o m 12

Chong Nonsi 17

Surawong

Soi 1

Soi 3

Sala Daeng

Trok Klue

Soi 7

Soi 10

Soi 12 Soi 9

Decho

Soi 14

Soi 11

Soi 1 8 Soi 16

Soi 13

Sam Yan

Sap

Naret

chit

So i S a

Cha

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Soi S Soi Nom

int Lo

Phra

aN Phr Soi

6 Soi 2

Rat

roen

aro

Soi 13

Chulalongkorn University

Soi 13

Charo

an Ch

Soi Phiphat 2

Sathorn Nuea Sathorn Tai Surasak King Mongkut’s University of Technology

Pan

Pramuan

2 8

Soi 2 2 Soi P/2 – Prach radit um

k 0 Soi 3

u i se – S a t h

So rn tho

Soi Santiphap

suri

Soi 15

So i 51 i5 3

un Kr

Iam

Phloi

i5 5 So i5 7 So So i 5 Ch i 61 9 aro en Kr ung Soi

chai

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Suras

Saphan Taksin

7 d

Kam

Soi 1

i 4 46 So i 1

Surawong

Silom

Soi 38 Soi 40

So So

SathornSo

Soi 3

Soi Puttha Os

Maha Se

idg

Oriental

Taksin

Rak–

b 5 c

sway

Soi 3

2 n d Sta

Dumax

pres

Cha

Bang

en Kr Post

Wat Muang Khae 1 1Wat Suwan

Trok Ph et

Soi 32

Hua Lamphong

Si Phraya

Soi 39

Soi 30

Si Phraya PT

ung

Na 3

Charo

Nak roen

te E x

hon

2a Khlong San

Tak s

ang

Ph Suan Suan

Sathorn Nuea Sathorn Tai

MX GR

7 Soi 1

Soi Saw

Marine Dept.

Lat Ya

Soi 5

anagarindra

Naradhiwas Raj

C N

as Naradhiwind Rajanagar ra

Soi Wanit 2

lu 6

Soi Nantha Mozart

Phlu 8

Immigration Office

Hotels 1

bars with views

a Threesixty The Peninsula 2 Millenium Hilton d Sky Bar 3 Shangri-La o Panorama 4 Center Point Silom p Moon Bar 5 Mandarin Oriental Nightlife 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton 7 Lebua at State Tower b La Casa Del Habano 8 Holiday Inn c Bamboo Bar 9 Chaydon Sathorn f Niu's on Silom g Barley Bistro & Bar Bangkok 10 Pullman Bangkok j Eat Me k Tapas Hotel G 11 Le Meridien Pubs 12 Crowne Plaza e Jameson's Bangkok Lumpini 13 Banyan Tree h The Pintsman 14 Dusit Thani l Molly Malone's 15 The Sukothai m The Barbican 16 Sofitel SO n O'Reilly's 17 W Bangkok

Arts & Culture 1

AT Austria

Shopping

MY Malaysia

Robinsons River City Shopping 3 Silom Village 4 Silom / Patpong Night-Market 5 Jim Thompson Store 2

104-111_map.indd 109

AU Australia BE Belgium

200 m

BT Bhutan

1 000 ft

CA Canada DE Germany DK Denmark GR Greece FR France MX Mexico

River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market

MM Myanmar PT Portugal SG Singapore TW Taiwan

Sightseeing a b

bangkok101.com

Embassies

Serindia Gallery 2 Silom Galleria: Number 1 Gallery, Tang Contemporary Art, Taivibu Gallery, Gossip Gallery 3 H Gallery 4 Bangkokian Museum 5 Alliance Francaise

Snake Farm MR Kukrit’s House

December 2013 | 109

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200 m 1 000 ft River Ferry River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market

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M Y B A N G KO K

Philip

Cornwel-Smith Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and budding photographer who has called Bangkok home for nearly 20 of his 48 years. Founding editor of Bangkok Metro magazine and author of Time Out Bangkok guidebook, he has seen the city change dramatically. The updated, expanded second edition of his best-selling book Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture , with four extra chapters and 209 new photos, is out now.

wacky contrasts. But face often trumps quality, principle, justice, even truth. It’s a Faustian trade-off.

What first attracted you to Thailand and Thai culture? While travelling here in 1994, I was hired to set up Bangkok’s first listings magazine, Metro. That made exploring Thai culture part of my job. Only then did I find I liked it.

Foreigners seem to adore Very Thai. What’s the feedback from Thai readers? The keenest fans are actually indie Thai creatives. In a new afterword the design guru Pracha Suveeranont explains the book’s impact on Thais. Both expats and Thais give it as gifts that represent the ‘real’ Thailand.

What were the challenges of putting together Very Thai? It was about familiar things left unexplained in a culture that keeps few records, so it was tough to unearth origins. Eight years later I know more, and added conclusion chapters to the second edition.

What do you find most striking about the difference between urban and rural lifestyles? The similarity! Many Bangkokians both romanticise yet look down on country folk, who are meanwhile becoming bourgeois like them. Farms have wifi, Isaan has malls, villagers upload opinions. 112 | DECEMBER 2013

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Do you feel that today there’s a greater acceptance of street life as culture? Very Thai took a risk by legitimising low-status things alongside ‘high’ culture. Fortuitously the book rode a zeitgeist wave that saw so-called ‘Thai Thai’ street life go retro, then hip, now mainstream in theme parks like Ploenwan. What parts of Thai culture prove most difficult for foreigners? Saving face. Favouring polite surface over content creates those charming manners, exquisite designs and

What parts of Bangkok do you keep going back to? Bangkok’s special energy comes from its hybrid street life. As malls and condos threaten that diversity, I enjoy old markets and multi-ethnic community lanes.

Photo: Matt Burns – southeastasiaimages.com

What major changes have taken place between the first and second editions? Everything is now politicised and Thais question more – even Thainess itself. Local character is eroding through the internet, commercial lifestyles, and taboos like magic tattoos have become trendy.

What’s your personal favourite subject in the book? Hi-so. Many hi-so types are selfaware that their scene is fabulously over-the-top, so it was fun to write.

Will there be a third edition in another eight years? I heavily rewrote and expanded the second edition but I did a light revision in 2007 and will keep it up-to-date. People can follow and contribute to updates via verythai. com and the hashtag #verythai. bangkok101.com

12/2/13 3:00 PM

san 6 mm 6.25 inch

170+1.5 mm

6.25 inch

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Taste bud alert! Hedone season feasts that w Only 3 days!

AMONG THE ELEPHANTS

6- net with wine pairing 3-course lunch on Christmas Day, 25th December at THB 2,500 n 6-course Festive Season dinner, 27th December at THB 7,000 n net with wine pairing Surprise Christmas gifts await for you!

| CITY PULSE

Angels of the Ring | TRAVEL

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december 2013

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san 6 mm 6.25 inch

170+1.5 mm

6.25 inch

bangkok 101

Taste bud alert! Hedone season feasts that w Only 3 days!

AMONG THE ELEPHANTS

| CITY PULSE

Angels of the Ring | TRAVEL

Bhutan | SHOPPING

Painkiller

december 2013

final cover_rev.indd 2

11/18/13 4:19 PM