Bangkok101 Magazine February 2014 by Talisman Media

Bang Po

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NIGHTLIFE

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Pak Khlong Talad Khao San Road Thewet Ratchada Night Market Talat Rot Fai Jatujak Weekend Market

a b u ri

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Si Lom

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Siam

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Siriraj Medical Museum Royal Barges Museum National Museum National Theatre Museum of Siam Rattanakosin Exhibiton Hall Numthong Gallery Aksra Theatre Goethe Institut Galerie N Bangkok Doll Museum Siam Niramit

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Wat Arun Grand Palace Wat Mahathat Wat Pho Wat Chana Songkhram Wat Ratchabophit Wat Bowornniwet Viharn Wat Suthat & Giant Swing Democracy Monument Wat Ratchanatda Wat Saket Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium Vimanmek Mansion Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall Wat Benchamabophit Suan Pakkad Palace Bangkok Butterfly Garden Lumpini Boxing Stadium Phaya Thai Palace

ARTS & CULTURE 8

Sanan Pao

Lan Luang

Phan Fa Lilat

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Airport Rail Link

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Bang Sue

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29 Queen Sirkit Park

Canal Boat

MAP 8

HOTELS 1

Amorosa The Club Phranakorn Bar Brick Bar Adhere The 13th Rolling Bar Pullman Raintree Pub Saxophone Pub Wongs Place Route 66 Cosmic Cafe

Pullman King Power

ari

Phra Khanong

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REDEFINING THE NEW LUXURY IN SHOPPING EXPERIENCE Book 1.indb 2

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CENTRAL EMBASSY OPENS IN MARCH 2014 Book 1.indb 3

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CATER TO YOUR CULINARY DESIRES WITH UNPARALLELED DINING ADVENTURES The chic design and modern layout at Chili Hip restaurant and Walk bar create an almost surreal ambiance, Enhanced by an innovative cocktail and an Asian Menu. Enjoy your dining on the rooftop at Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok as you take in stunning views of the city in one of Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most elite nightlife destinations

T: +66 (0) 2 625 1234 E: reservations@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com centarahotelsresorts mycentara CENTARA WATERGATE PAVILLION HOTEL BANGKOK

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567 Ratchaprarop Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400 Thailand

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publisher’s letter

s much as we love Bangkok, we also relish the opportunity to get out of the city and explore the rest of this country and our trip down to Phang Nga to check out the new Iniala Beach House was a rare treat. Its exquisitely designed luxury villas are truly unique so be sure to check out our photo feature for the full effect. Closer to home, we’re gearing up for Valentine’s Day – if you’re looking for something romantic to do, we’ve got plenty of suggestions as well as an exhaustive list of the best restaurant packages on offer. Speaking of food, we’ve been busy eating – we checked out Ciao for our feature review before visiting a string of tasty places, including Ten-Sui, one of the city’s finest Japanese restaurants. Travel-wise, we headed south to Songkhla City and explored the atmospheric ruins of Hampi. We also caught up with Hossein Farmani, ‘photo missionary’ and owner of Thong Lor’s Rooftop Gallery, which this month hosts an exhibition of Lucie Award winners. Hopefully it inspires all of you enthusiastic amateurs out there. After all that, we kicked back at Ocean Bangkok and enjoyed a handful of cocktails by the pool. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks is all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talisman-media.com.

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

ba ngkok 101 Par t n er s

bangkok101.com

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Contributors

publisher

Mason Florence editor-in-chief

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher

Parinya Krit-Hat editor

Tom Sturrock group editor

Joe Cummings editorial assistant

Pawika Jansamakao Bangkok-born but internationally bred, Dr Tom Vitayakul has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.

Award-winning writer joe cummings was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.

Food and travel writer howard richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ , the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.

art director

Narong Srisaiya graphic designer

Watcharee Sadubsoi

strategists

Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers

Gaby Doman, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Dave Stamboulis, Keith Mundy contributing photographers

Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director business development

Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon

director sales and marketing

Nowfel Ait Ouyahia British-born writer-artist steven pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.

Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, korakot (nym) punlopruksa believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .

Very Thai author philip cornwel-smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.

partnership development manager

Willem Deenik projects director

Wasin Banjerdtanakul

circulation

Pradchya Kanmanee published by

AVAILABLE AT:

bangkok101.com

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No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them. F EBRUA RY 2014 | 7

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CONTENTS xx 16

xx 20

xx 38

city pulse

a r t & c u lt u r e

10 metro beat

48 exhibition highlights

96 new collection:

14 hot plates: ciao

52 feature:

tube gallery

16 out and about:

man on a mission

98 jj gem: somnuk lamp

visions of dhamma

55 cheat notes

99 unique boutique:

20 best of bangkok:

56 photo feature:

oxobject

love is in the air

iniala beach house

s n a p s h ot s

food & drink

24 tomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s two satang

66 food & drink news

26 very thai

68 meal deals

27 chronicle of thailand

69 restaurant reviews:

28 joeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bangkok

restaurant in box, ten-sui,

30 historic homes,

maverick, senor pico,

shrines and temples

prime

32 museums

76 in the kitchen:

shopping

henry jordan

wellness

t r av e l

77 eat like nym

100 spa review:

34 old phuket festival

78 restaurant listings

luxsa spa

38 hotel reviews

nightlife

reference

40 up country escape:

86 nightlife news

102 getting there

the jewel of the south

88 review:

104 maps

44 over the border:

ocean bangkok

112 my bangkok:

rapture in the ruins

90 nightlife listings

eggarat wongcharit

36 up country now

bangkok 101

february 2014 100 baht

ANDAMAN DREAMING

| city pulse

A design revelation at Iniala Beach House

Love is in the air | travel

Rapture in the ruins | shopping

on the cover We spent an amazing weekend at Phang Nga exploring the newly opened Iniala Beach House. Our cover shows Little One, an aluminium sculpture by emerging artist Diana Harjanti celebrating the enduring magnificence of whales, dramatically positioned diving into the Iniala roof pond. Check out p56.

Tube Gallery

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metro beat Avril Lavigne

by Howard Richardson

ROCK & POP

Periphery American progressive metal band Periphery bring polyrhythmic grooves to the Rock Pub (Hollywood Street Building, Phaya Thai Rd, 081-666-4359, therockpub-bangkok.com) on February 4. The three guitar six piece have a couple of eponymous albums under their belt and released a ‘mini album’ called Clear a few days before this trip. A third album, Juggernaut, is due out later in the year. Tickets are B1000, either on the door or through payment options available by calling 085-060-4120. With their first album Gore and Perversion apparently seized by the police and destroyed for its offensive content, British death metal trio Desecration made early waves in 1990s Wales. Subsequent albums include Desecration Murder in Mind, Process Of Decay and Raping the Corpse. Catch them at Immortal Bar (6 Soi Bunchoosri, Dindaeng, 082-082-4942, facebook.com/ immortalthaibar) on February 7, priced at a not-too-offensive B700.

Growing Up, which was released last year. It will feature strongly in new songs, including the title track of the same name, Rock n Roll and Let Me Go, but we’ll also likely hear old hits such as Complicated and Sk8r Boi. Speaking about the tour so far, Lavigne said: “People have come up and started crying, saying, ‘You have no idea what your music has done for me.’ That’s all I need to hear. If I can give even one person strength through my music, that’s pretty frickin’ special.” Tickets are B1000-B4500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). Michael Jackson impersonator E Casanova resurrects 20 hits in a two-hour tribute show at the Centara Grand Convention Centre (991 Rama 1 Rd, 02-640-7000, centralworld.co.th) on February 15. We’re promised a “99.99 percent Michael Jackson”, a “perfect” sound and light show, and guaranteed classics including Smooth Criminal, Beat It and Black or White. Only the ticket price separates it from the real thing – B800B3000 at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). The world’s original rock guitar hero Eric Clapton takes the stage at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) on March 2 as part of his world tour. Clapton, nicknamed ‘Slowhand’, energised the UK Blues scene in the 1960s, most notably in stints with The Yardbirds and John Mayall’s Bluesbreakers, before forming the legendary band Cream, with Jack Bruce and Ginger Baker. More blues-rock success followed with the ‘supergroup’ Blind Faith and a solo career that began as Derek and the Dominos with the classic album and single Layla. Tickets are B2500-B6000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com).

Eric Clapton

Poppy-punkster Avril Lavigne brings her tour to Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) on February 11, promoting her latest album Here’s To Never 10 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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ART The Institut de Recherche Pour le Développement (France) and the Centre for Ethnic Studies and Development (Thailand) of Chiang Mai University have collaborated over nine years to create archives on ethnic minorities in Thailand. Part of their collection of 60,000 photographs shows in the exhibition On the Beaten Track: A half century of photography among highlanders of Northern Thailand at the Siam Society (131 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-661-6470, siam-society.org) until February 15. The 40 images from private collections of anthropologists, missionaries and development experts cover the period from the 1950s to the present. An accompanying book with 240 photos will be on sale. Almost 30 artists from around the globe, including from Thailand, the US, France and Chile, are showing in the exhibition mnemonikos: Art of Memory in Contemporary Textiles, which continues at the Jim Thompson Art Centre (6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd, 02-216-7368, jimthompsonhouse.com) until February 22. The Japanese textiles expert Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada curates, featuring works that show how modern artists use ancient knowledge for inspiration in disciplines from dyeing to weaving, laser etching to metal on fabric. Artist talks, a symposium and a textile trip to Jim Thompson Farm are among the side events that add to the visuals. Concept Context Contestation: Art and the Collective in Southeast Asia is dubbed the biggest Southeast Asian contemporary art show ever produced in Thailand, and with works by 40 artists covering over 50 years, it might just be. Drawn from eight countries around the region, the pieces by heavyweight artists including Thailand’s Manit Sriwanichpoom, Vasan Sitthiket and Sutee Kunavichayanont attempt to show that “conceptual approaches used in the contemporary art of Southeast Asia are not necessarily imported but rather can find their source in home culture”. It’s at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (939 Rama I Rd, 02-214-6632, bacc.or.th) until March 2.

DANCE Move with Meanings

mnemonikos

On the Beaten Track

THEATRE Eugene Eustaquio conducts Aladdin: The Musical, this year’s show by Satit Bilingual School of Rangsit University, at Aksra Theatre (8/1 Soi Rangnam, 02-677-8888, aksratheatre.com) on February 21, 22 and 23. The score is played by the RSU Philharmonic Orchestra. Tickets are B1500-B3000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com).

FESTIVAL The Pichet Klunchun Dance Company performs Move with Meanings, a collaboration between contemporary dance and Thai classical music at Sala Sudasiri Sobha (Lad Phrao Soi 41, 080-407-8231) from February 20-23. The award-winning performers are dancer Pichet Klunchun and composer Nat Yontararak. Tickets are B1000. bangkok101.com

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The MAB: Music and Art Fest at BACC No 3 takes over the open space in front of the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (939 Rama I Rd, 02-214-6632, bacc.or.th) on February 15-16. Expect what it says on the label – music and art, plus souvenir shops with handmade goodies to take home. It runs from 4pm to 9pm; entrance free. F EBRUA RY 2014 | 11

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metro beat

David Thompson

FOOD & DRINK Bangkok-based chef David Thompson heads to Singapore to chair a two-day series of culinary workshops and discussions of global food trends running February 23-24. It will be held in conjunction with Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2014, sponsored by S. Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, and culminates in a one-day forum, The Future of Food: Back to our Roots. There are several other top chefs on the programme and attendees will be able to gain valuable insights into their signature dishes and approach to cooking with the classes on offer. Don’t miss Joan Roca whose El Celler de Can Roca has three Michelin stars and was voted No.1 in World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2013.

CINEMA

Joan Roca

CLASSICAL February is the last chance this year to get down to Lumpini Park and hear the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra playing Music in the Park in its open-air season. First go boating on the lake, then settle down at sunset with wine and picnic food for a selection of tunes from film, stage and popular classical music. The final two concerts are on Sundays February 2 and 9, at 5.30pm. Entry is free.

Hotel Lux As the cool season winds down, so too does German Open Air Cinema, which has its last few screenings of the year at the Goethe Institut (18/1 Soi Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1, 02-287-0942, goethe.de/bangkok) this month. It signs off with three films, the drama My Beautiful Country on February 4; a tragicomedy called Hotel Lux on February 11; and the drama Stopped on Track on February 25. All films are in German language with English subtitles. Admission is free. 12 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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It took seven years to compose but Somtow Sucharitkul’s new opera Dan No Ura premieres at the Thailand Cultural Centre (Thiem Ruammitr Rd, 02-247-0028) on February 9-10. It’s another of Somtow’s pieces set in Asia, following Madana, Mae Naak, Ayodhya, and the Silent Prince, this time with the action in Japan. The 95-minute single act opera relates the story of the Battle of Dan-no-Ura, about which Somtow wrote the libretto aided by Japanologist Alex Kerr, inspired by the book The Tale of the Heike. The cast includes Nancy Yuen, Nadlada Thamtanakom and Kyu Won Han. “There is nothing more operatic than the climax of this famous battle,” said Somtow, referring to the moment when, realising all is lost, the grandmother of the boy Emperor Antoku says she will take him to rule over another capital beneath the sea. Tickets are B500B2000 at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). bangkok101.com

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hot plates

Ciao

by Howard Richardson

angkok’s heat, humidity and rains mean there are few months when it’s truly comfortable to dine outside. So it’s good to take advantage of the cool season, particularly at an atmospheric riverside restaurant like Ciao. It might be going too far to describe this impressive Italian as the youthful side of the Mandarin Oriental but the place has a funky, relaxed edge you might not usually associate with the city’s ‘Grande Dame’. It has a central bar of nightlife-red with a tented canopy, a water wall of chequered slate, and funky lounge sounds pumping four-to-the-bar bass as the boats dance by on the river. A good place to start is a stool at the bar with a glass of prosecco, and pick at the spuntino menu of snacks like crispy light bruschetta topped with belly of tuna, pine nuts, fresh lemon, salt flakes and black pepper (from B170). Later, head to a table under trees strung with fairy lights and choose from Chef Luca Casini’s menu. The two sections are ‘classic’ and ‘chef-inspired’. From the former, we took antipasti of burrata, ox heart tomato and wild rocket (B460) – the burrata very soft, with just enough elasticity – and, from the latter, crabmeat salad with egg mimosa (B450). It’s a very well-executed, well-seasoned dish, the sweet crabmeat gaining a luxurious texture from being marinated in lemon, mustard and honey but still light and fresh in the mouth. There’s a salty balance from a teaspoon of black herring roe placed on top. The pastas are mostly homemade and include spaghetti chitarra vongole (B550), featuring the fat strings of the rarely used chitarra, which adds body to the dish. The sauce is not too wet, not too dry, and well-balanced, rich in flavour but restrained. And the kitchen hands go to the trouble of disposing of the clam shells before serving, making it easier to eat. Also good is the ravioli with spinach and ricotta, finished with a dousing of sage butter sauce (B480). The pick of several well-executed mains was grilled tiger prawns (B720) served with a bisque type sauce, but made without cream. It’s deceptive in that it has less textural body than the traditional, so looks light in the jug, yet retains full, rich flavours with a slight sweetness and a tiny hint of chilli. There’s more deception in the navel orange dessert (B310). It’s not an orange at all but made of orange-coloured chocolate. Crack it open to reveal a filling of ricotta and marzipan cassata with segments of actual orange that add a juicy sour note. There’s also a list of 10 cheeses (B550 for a selection). Beyond the bar, overlooking the garden, a small room has a chef’s table, available for four to eight diners at B4,000 each. Wherever you sit, there’s a comfortable feeling to Ciao, at once sophisticated but very laid back. It’s a good place to watch the sun go down.

ciao

[MAP 5/B4]

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoen Krung Soi 40 | 02-659-9000 mandarinoriental.com. | Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm

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hot plates

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visions of dhamma The Buddhist Tipitaka is brought to life in a mixed-media explosion in Korat. BY JOE CUMMINGS

rom afar, the most striking feature of Wat Ban Rai is the massive 520-tonne elephant head, extending from the roof and detailed with rich mosaic textures. The art inside has taken a deliberately unorthodox approach to expressing the contents of the Tipitaka, the imposing three-volume canon containing the 84,000 teachings of the Buddha. “Luang Pho Koon always teaches that the simplest understanding of dhamma is the best,” says Kriengkrai Jaruthavee, vice-president of the temple committee at Wat Baan Rai, the home temple of Phra Thep Wittayakom, more commonly known as Luang Pho Koon. “We’ve tried to fulfil his vision with the Dhamma Garden

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out & about

shrine, which brings together architecture, sculpture, mosaic, painting and other art media to outline the basic Buddhist teachings in purely visual terms.” The abbot, who turned 90 years old last October, is arguably the most venerated living Buddhist master in Thailand. As a young monk, he is said to have travelled extensively through the forests of northeast Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, mastering Buddhist teachings and meditation, and acquiring weecha, a difficult-to-translate concept that implies deep spiritual powers. Today the living spiritual legend is famous for using temple donations to build schools and clinics for the poor in Nakhon Ratchasima. The circular, four-storey Dhamma Garden, also known as Wihan Thep Wittayakom, stands in the middle of a large pond, and is designed to guide visitors through the basic teaching of the Tipitaka. Kriengkrai personally oversaw every step in the shrine’s creation, watching progress through a telescope from 200 metres away, and conveying instructions to artists and workers by mobile phone. “The Dhamma Garden is meant to expose people to a large number of these points through simple visual and audio input, without any memorisation,” Kriengkrai says. Of all the art media featured in the shrine’s exterior, the mosaics are the most impressive. More than 20 million pieces of coloured ceramic, all custom-fashioned in sheets and fired at super-high kiln temperatures before bangkok101.com

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being methodically broken into small pieces, were used throughout. The basic construction as well as the intricate mosaic work was carried about by over 400 local villagers. When their work came to an end, many stayed on to serve as guides. Others will participate in the Art Village, an area now under construction where visitors will be able to see demonstrations of how Dhamma Garden art was created. Tai, who had a sixth-grade education and no previous art experience when she was hired to work on the project, describes how she worked. “Ajahn Sampan [head artist Samphan Sararak] would sketch patterns directly on the sculpture using Magic Marker to guide us with placing the ceramic pieces,” she says. “The patterns contained letters representing the different colours and sizes of the fragments. We chose the corresponding pieces from sacks of porcelain chip and placed them in a mixture of cement and glue. “At first it was difficult, but once I picked up speed it was a pleasure to see the art take form.” Sampan Sararak, from Nakhon Si Thammarat, served as the principal artist on the project, providing sketches for every phase of the project and supervising a team of up to 200 other artists who contributed sculpture, painting and electronic media. Known outside of the Buddhist art world for his expertise in nude portraiture, Sampan has been deeply F EBRUA RY 2014 | 17

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out & about

involved with Wat Ban Rai for three-and-a-half years. He created all the paintings seen in the Luang Pho Koon museum before being invited to work on the Dhamma Garden, which finally opened in November 2013, after nearly three years of construction and decoration, at a cost of 250 million baht in donations. The shrine is reached via an elaborate naga bridge, symbolising a crossing from the temporal world into the world of dhamma. Four entrances at each of the shrine’s main cardinal points are surmounted by huge, colourful sculptures of Hindu-Buddhist deities. The main entrance to the east is dominated by Indra, the king of the gods, and is flanked by sculptures of his mount Airavata (Erawan in Thai), the three-headed elephant. Moving clockwise, the south portal is topped by Yama, the god of death, who decides which realm – heaven, hell, animal or human – one will be reborn into. Varuna, lord of the underwater world, is featured at the west entry, flanked by a pair of crocodiles. Finally the north belongs to the potbellied god of wealth, Kubera, and his elephant mount. Twenty-eight ceramic-tiled pillars surround the circular exterior and support the massive roof. Each is painted by a different artist, and together the 28 pillars depict scenes from 537 of the Buddha’s previous lives. The ground floor’s interior art, dedicated to the Sutta Pitaka (the discourses of the Buddha in the first book of the Tipitaka), is dominated by six wall paintings. The first panel, and at 36 square metres the largest, covers the Buddha’s final life from birth to renunciation, while the second follows the great master from renunciation to enlightenment. The Buddha’s travels and teachings provide the subject matter for the next three painted panels, and the sixth and final panel documents his 18 | F EBRUA RY 2014

Book 1.indb 18

passing into parinibbana. A carpeted, wheelchair-accessible ramp winds along the inside circumference of the building to the second main level, dedicated to the Vinaya Pitaka, the book of the Buddhist canon concerned with discipline and practice. From here all the way to the roof, the Buddha is represented by images of a lotus flower rather than traditional images. According to Kriengkrai, this is because “the artists agreed the Buddha was too large to be contained by any of anthropomorphic art inside the building.” The four sections of the Vinaya floor are divided between the four main schools of Buddhism, namely South and Southeast Asian Theravada, Chinese Mahayana, Japanese Zen and Tibetan Vajrayana, each made up of mixed media, videos and paintings. A separate lounge with a circular floor plan and soft lighting contains padded round platforms for meditation, accompanied by ambient music and video loops showing flowing water and other calming images. The Abhidhamma Pitaka, considered the most profound third of the canon, is the subject of the third floor, with detailed samplings of the book’s teachings. It’s the final stop before ascending to the roof, where two bronze statues, a seven-metre-high Buddha in walking posture, along with a five-metre sculpture of Luang Pho Koon, are the focus. Peaceful views over Wat Ban Rai and surrounding Dan Khun Tot are an inspiring reward for the three-storey climb.

Wat Ban Rai

[MAP 1/j2]

Tambon Kut Phiman, Amphoe Dan Khun Thot, Nakhon Ratchasima 04-421-3030 | 9am-5pm

bangkok101.com

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love is in the air It’s nearly Valentine’s Day and Bangkok is bulging with activities for hopeless romantics – whether it’s flowers or chocolates you’re after, we’ve got you covered. Dine on the Chao Praya If you’re planning a big night out for Valentine’s Day, why not take to the Chao Praya to dine on the water? There are plenty of cruise options but the Banyan Tree Bangkok’s Apsara is one of the best known and most reputable in Bangkok. This year, they offer dinner for B4888 per couple, offering a range of delicious signature Thai dishes, including Tom Kha Kam Poo with crab claw and coconut broth and Pla Hima Neung Manao, a steamed snowfish with chilli and lime. If you don’t fancy dining while rocking up and down on the river you can, alternatively, head to the Banyan Tree on dry land and enjoy a five-course dinner at Vertigo for B8800 per couple. 20 | F EBRUA RY 2014

Book 1.indb 20

BY TOM STURROCK

Explore the flower market If you fancy getting out and about on Valentine’s Day – maybe before you take your romantic cruise – drop in at Pak Khlong Talat, the flower market, to buy your bundle of roses. The streets surrounding the flower market’s main building are already packed by mid-morning and make sure you don’t get run over by the ‘trolley mafia’, workers that go rattling up and down, pushing barrows stacked high with enormous pandam leaves. It’s not just flowers on sale here – out the back, there are vast stores of fruit and vegetables. And you might need to stock up on krachay dam, or ‘black finger ginger’, a renowned Thai aphrodisiac popular with the hill tribes in the northern provinces. bangkok101.com

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best of bangkok

Indulge in sweet treats It may be a day for lovers – but also for chocolate-lovers. And there are a handful of top-notch chocolatiers and sweet shops preparing to raise their game. Chocolab at Sofitel So uses the world’s best cocoa beans from the oldest plantations and offers an all-you-can-eat package between 4pm and 5.30pm for B750. Or check out their chocolate-cooking class for B2900. The Chocolate Boutique at the Shangri-La gets creative, fashioning chocolate-covered raspberries, as well as chocolate tuk-tuks and chocolate lipstick sets. Meanwhile, the Mandarin Oriental Shop is offering a selection of Valentine’s-inspired delicacies, including heart-shaped macarons, strawberry-filled pastries and artisanal chocolates. But why wait until Valentine’s Day? At the Dusit Thani’s bakery and patisserie, you can enjoy Valentine’s Day all month. bangkok101.com

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CITY PU LSE

Take a cooking class If you’re feeling a little more hands-on this Valentine’s Day, what’s more romantic than a loving couple working sideby-side in the kitchen, preparing a delightful meal? Well, at the very least, if you take a cooking course, you’re jointly prepared meal is less likely to be a complete disaster. Bangkok has plenty of choices when it comes to cooking schools but there are a few stand-outs. Over on the Thonburi side of the river, Amita Thai runs a class in a charming old canalside home, where you’ll handpick ingredients from the garden. The Baipai Cooking School is out near Chatuchak – so you can do a spot of shopping once you’re done – and is known for being particularly hands-on. Equally, Blue Elephant runs one of the best-known classes in the city, combining traditional Thai with some more innovative dishes. If you’re lucky, you’ll also pay a visit to the market before you start cooking. F EBRUA RY 2014 | 21

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CITY PU LSE

best of bangkok valentine’s day dinner deals

The Square at Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit is offering an array of Valentine’s highlights for B2400 per couple, including two glasses of sparkling wine. Couples can spend a relaxed evening at Dee Lounge’s Beer Garden with a premium grilled seafood set plus one bottle of sparkling wine for B2600. Rossini’s at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit presents a special five-course menu (B6000 per couple) with a different dish for him and her from February 10-16. With the restaurant’s knowledgeable sommelier on hand, diners are assured the perfect pairing for the extraordinary menu. The special four-course menu will be something you’ve never tried at diVino before as Chef Roberto passionately prepares his special dishes for the occasion. The price is B4000 per couple, including a bottle of rose wine. L’Appart at Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit invites you to enjoy a very special evening with a gourmet four-course wine dinner at B3999 per person. The various fine dishes and desserts will be paired with premium wines.

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit For one night only at Crêpes and Co., couples will enjoy an intimate four-course Mediterranean set menu for two. The price is B1798 for two people, including one glass of wine each. A romantic Valentine’s night buffet is available at Patummat at The Sukosol Bangkok. Guests can enjoy a wide selection of western and Asian cuisine at B1200 per person.

The Landmark Bangkok provides lovers with a Valentine’s buffet at Atrium for B3200 per couple. An exclusive fivecourse dinner is also available at Rib Room and Bar for B12,000 per couple.

Lebua at State Tower celebrates the romantic evening with an exclusive seven-course dinner at Sirocco for B21,999 per couple. At Mezzaluna, a seven-course tasting menu is available for B6500 per person. Try the international buffet at Café Mozu for B1550 per person.

A five-course set dinner that includes a complimentary bottle of pink sparkling wine is offered for B9900 per couple at Elements restaurant at The Okura Prestige Bangkok from February 14-16.

At The Sukhothai Bangkok, enjoy a private zone of Celadon Herb Garden’s lovely and aromatic herb garden with a special Thai set dinner at B5600 per couple. Try the set menu at Celadon Restaurant for B4800 per couple.

An array of premium Italian dishes and desserts, such as lobster carpaccio, seared monkfish cheeks, Canadian lobster seared Rossini-style and Sicilian cannoli are offered on the Luce In Love five-course menu (B5950 per couple) at Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok.

At Sofitel So Bangkok, an exquisite four-course set dinner is available for B7500 per couple, including two glasses of champagne at The Water Club and Solarium. On the same night at The Box, there’s a six-course gastronomic dinner for two at B28,000 per couple.

The special six-course dinner set menu, priced at B3999, is offered at Crowne Plaza’s Panorama. For a truly memorable dining experience, couples will be given a welcome glass of prosecco and ladies roses.

Celebrate the day of love at amBar at Four Points by Sheraton. Only B4500 per couple for an impressive seafood appetiser platter, a full buffet and a great variety of desserts with a bottle of wine and an exclusive box of chocolate.

Hua Chang Heritage Hotel Bangkok has an exquisite Thai set menu for B850 per person, including red roses and rose wine. Tantalise your taste buds with a set dinner of various Thai dishes and fresh tropical fruits as well as tea or coffee at the end. An unforgettable dinner at The Royal Orchid Sheraton is guaranteed to dazzle. Enjoy the international and BBQ buffet dinner for B4000 per couple at Feast. There are also magnificent river views with a western set dinner at Sambal Bar & Grill for B3500 per couple, while an authentic Italian set dinner is available at Giorgio’s for B3500 per couple. 22 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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Over at Millennium Hilton Bangkok’s Maya, the 13-course Thai set menu for two is designed to make the evening special. The price is B3200 per couple. You can also enjoy a four-course set menu with a bottle of Champagne at Three Sixty for B14,000 per couple. Treat your loved one to sweet offerings at Brasserie Europa. Enjoy a special eight-course, priced at B9999 per couple. Guests will also be eligible to enter a prize draw for a weekend stay in luxurious accommodation with a spa treatment and Sunday lunch for two at Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok. bangkok101.com

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Cross- Cultural Dragon

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insight

ToTwmo ’Ssatang

S N A P S H OT S

Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21stcentury trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner

On sino-siamese

Photo: Tom Vitayakul

hile identifying ourselves as Thai, most of us come from a mixed ethnic ancestry. Chinese is the most common among the races prevalent in Thailand. They have intermingled with the locals not only in the major towns and cities but from the northern part of Thailand all the way to the Malaysian Peninsula. However with a long history and relationship with China, the Chinese and the Sino-Siamese have either assimilated into the Thai culture and society or segregated and lived among their kinfolk. As part of the modern Sino-Thai generation, I know little about my Chinese ancestors. We have blended in and observe Thai culture and customs but mix them with Confucian beliefs. There are only a few Chinese occasions we celebrate: Chinese New Year, the Mid-Year Celebration, the Mid-Autumn or the Mooncake Festival, and the Tomb Cleaning Rituals and Ancestor Worship on Qingming Day. I don’t speak any Chinese dialects and practice Theravada Buddhism while many Sino-Thais follow Mahayana Buddhism and Taoism. Although the Chinese and the Sino-Thais have been through hardships and resentment, we are proud of our ancestry and contribution to the Thai history, society, and culture. The Chinese settled in Thailand several centuries ago. In fact, Thais are descendants of a group of Tai tribes from southern China and other tribes from southeast Asia. When Sukhothai was established, Siam traded with the Middle Kingdom – or China – and was one of the tributary states. Thailand invited skilled artisans from China to build the kilns and make ceramics and Sukhothai became wellknown for its fine celadon. In the Ayutthaya Period, the Chinese were the only ethnic group – apart from the Thais – that lived both within and outside the confines of the city wall. The others were housed depending on the Palace’s assessment of how likely they were to mount an attack. Thus, other Asian traders and envoys lived closer to the palace grounds while the Europeans had to locate much further away. King Taksin of Thonburi and the Kings in Chakri Dynasty came from a mixed Chinese descent. King Rama III was very fond of Chinese art and style, which heavily influenced many temples and artefacts during his period. The current royal family still celebrates the Chinese New

bangkok101.com

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Year and makes a visit to Chinatown every year. From the Sukhothai Period until the mid-Rattanakosin Period, Phraya Choduek Raja Setthi or Phraya Raja Setthi was a title royally bestowed on grand Chinese traders. The title means the prosperous chief of the merchants and this position controlled all the trading posts on the left banks of Chao Phraya River which mainly dealt with the Chinese, the Vietnamese, the Cambodian and the Dutch. Originally, the Chinese and the Annamese had their settlements where the Grand Palace is currently situated. They were asked to move southward along the river to where Chinatown is today. Most of these Chinese communities have lived in these areas for more than two centuries and some didn’t even know how to read or write Thai language. Sing Sian Yit Pao, a daily local Chinese newspaper, has been printed here for more than 56 years. In the 19th century, there was an influx of Chinese immigrants to Bangkok and coastal towns. These new arrivals were industrious and became highly successful. Many have intermarried with the Thais and have expanded their professional sectors beyond business and commerce into political and academic fields as well. Over time, Chinese communities increased in wealth and influence, creating ill-feeling. King Rama VI was not happy with the ethnic Chinese in his kingdom and in 1914, wrote an article under a pseudonym published in a newspaper, Asavabhahu, calling them the “Jews of the Orient”. He pointed to the similarities he felt existed between the Chinese and Jews: “excessive racial loyalty and astuteness in financial matters”. Between the 1930s and the 1950s, the Chinese in Thailand also suffered discrimination under the military dictatorship of Prime Minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram – even though he was part-Chinese himself. State corporations took over commodities such as rice, tobacco and petroleum, and Chinese businesses found themselves subject to a range of new taxes and controls. Many aspects of Thai culture have been influences by the Chinese, such as the cuisine in both methods and ingredients. Using oil, wok, noodles and chopsticks come from the Chinese. Street food was started by Chinese immigrants as well as some of the first restaurants and hotels in Bangkok. F EBRUA RY 2014 | 25

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very thai

female

grooming

the importance of women’s hair and dress

hether in formal fabric or spaghetti straps, Thai women remain among the best-groomed people on earth. Visitors marvel at how prettily they frame their typical blessings of smooth skin, fine features, petite figure and lustrous hair. On special occasions, the use of gold, silk and flowers lends traditional costuming a divine mystique. Designers today find fresh uses for local textiles like tie-dyed mudmee silk, especially in skirt-suits worn by grand khunying (dames). In every-day wear, too, female Thais display awesome pride in appearance. Uniforms abound, waitresses glide with prim politeness, office ladies totter off to lunch in elegant outfits. Even the poorest look spotless. As important as hairspray is white makeup. Paleness raises status. Keeping out of the sun is vital, and Thais spend 1 billion baht annually on skin whitening products, even for armpit and genital bleaching. Typically advertised by half-Western or Chinese models, these can at best only restore the skin’s natural shade, and some can be poisonous. To look truly pale requires powder. Thus women of all ranks may smear their faces with talc or with nam ob, perfumed lotions containing dinsor phong, a white clay from Lopburi now used in Thai spa therapies. It both heals and cools.

Photos: Philip Vornwel-Smith, HiSoParty.com, Thailand Tatler

> Very Thai

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River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip CornwelSmith | B 995 Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, ‘Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture’ is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

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chronicle of thailand june 15, 1962:

S N A P S H OT S

International Court of justice determines DRUG that ancient temple belongs to Cambodia

Khao Phra Viharn ruling shocks thais

OUS

arm

he International Court of Justice in The Hague confirmed Cambodia’s ownership of the ancient Chiang Rai Thai temple site of Khao Phra Viharn. Judges rejected against Thailand’s claim that the ruins were within its territory by drug lor his 200-mule op a nine-to-three majority. Cambodia had declared that Thailand was obligated to withdraw the forces it had Several tho by planes and h stationed, since 1954, at the ruins. stronghold at Ba The court said Thailand had accepted, by default, a (SUA). At least 1 map of the Dângrêk mountain range showing the temple as fierce fighting on Cambodian land. The map was part of the FrancoAfter Thai Siamese Treaty of 1907, which created the modern border. a truce proposa Thailand objected that French cartographers mapped Tinsulanond sta the border without collaborating with Thai cartographers, contravening the 1907 treaty. But the court stated:narcotics traffick continue its driv “Since there was no reaction on the part of the Siamese It wa authorities, either then or for many years, they mustdestroyed.” be the region’s h held to have acquiesced. If the Siamese authoritiesofhad headq accepted the map without investigation, they couldextensive not and equipment now plead any effort vitiating the reality of their consent.” A 1935 survey showed that other French and British In July, Kh

maps placed the temple on Thai territory. But Thailand troops, had alsofought a side of Doi Lang continued to use maps showing Phra Viharn as Cambodia’s. Chiang Rai prov displaced hundr Chronicle of Thailand Border Patrol Po EDM Books | editor-in-chief Sa’s new base o Nicholas Grossman | B1,450 constructed 200

Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eye-witnessaccount of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced.

21 January 1982

leaving a mark H

umans have been using their hands to make marks on surfaces since prehistoric times. In Buddhist art, the Buddha is represented with various mudras that symbolise his actions, including teaching and blessing. According to the cab driver, this particular hand gesture stamped on the ceiling is supposed to activate dormant energy. Considering that taxi drivers spend long hours sitting in the front seat, hopefully this handprint keeps this cabby alert and awake.

> Chronicle of Thailand EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450

Chronicle of Thailand is th Adulyadej. Beginning on t presents a vivid eye-witne major news events of the as they unfolded and quir the news, the book featur illustrations, representing Thailand ever produced.

still life in moving vehicles

CiTy vS. COUNTRy This cabby literally wears two hats. He dons a baseball cap when he’s driving his cab and puts on this straw hat when he’s farming. This is not uncommon in Bangkok as many cabbies here come from the countryside to drive a taxi between rice plantings and harvests, or when extra income is desperately needed. I asked the driver of this taxi which job he prefers and he told me that he would much rather do farming than drive in this city full of traffic jams and crazy people. Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, Still Life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com). Published by River Books, the spin-off book, Thai Taxi Talismans, is available at bookstores around town for B995. F EBRUA RY 2014 | 27

bangkok101.com bangkok101.com

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S N A P S H OT S

highlight

Joean’sgkok B

Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite talking points from in and around Bangkok.

one big melting pot

hether native or newcomer, virtually every Bangkokian you meet has a story. Although no doubt a majority find themselves here owing to the simple fact that they were born in the city, a healthy percentage of the population hail from other parts of Thailand and from around the world. Some migrate for the promise of work, others for the promise of a life in new and exciting circumstances. Climb into one the capital’s brightly coloured, ubiquitous taxis and the music playing from your driver’s radio or cassette player will often suggest where he or she is from. If it’s mo lam, with the churning sound of Thai-Lao bamboo pan-pipes (khaen) pounding out Zydeco-like chord figures over a strong, simple rhythm, then chances are your drive moved to Bangkok from one of Thailand’s distant northeastern provinces such as Roi-Et or Sakon Nakhon. Switch to luuk thung, a unique hybrid of Thai, Indian and Latin musical influences popular with rural audiences, and 28 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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the driver almost certainly comes from a province closer to Bangkok, perhaps Suphanburi or Saraburi. And if it’s syrupy Thai city pop or an older, crooning Bangkok style called luuk krung then you’ve most likely hitched a ride with a rare city native. Switch on the television and tune in to a Bangkok channel around 8pm and let Thai soap opera plots fill in the details of the Bangkok story. Most are set in the capital city and although they are hardly realistic – the men are always handsome, the women beautiful, even their automobiles are spotless – the plotlines are propped up by Bangkok realities. A young Thai Isan girl from the northeastern countryside takes a service job in a wealthy Bangkok household, and the resulting weekly culture clashes keep Thai viewers glued to the screen. If you could sneak a peek at what Bangkokians eat for breakfast, you’d have a fighting chance at guessing the main trunk of their respective family trees. Khao tom phui, bangkok101.com

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highlight an array of small dishes of dried fish, peanuts and pickled vegetables eaten with hot rice soup, strongly suggests Chinese ancestry. Spot a plate of steaming kaeng khiawwaan (Thai green curry) or kaeng phet (Thai red curry) over rice and it’s likely your diner comes from mostly Thai genes. A thai pak tai from southern Thailand might be digging into khao yam, a spicy salad of rice, shaved lemongrass, toasted coconut and tamarind sauce. If khao niaw – semi-transparent glutinous rice – is part of the morning meal, it’s almost certain your Bangkok resident hails from northern or northeastern Thailand. Only a little over half of the city’s inhabitants are in fact true Bangkok Thais; that is, people born of Thai parentage who speak Bangkok Thai as their first language. Thais are found in all walks of life, although they make up the backbone of the city’s blue-collar workforce, prominently construction, automotive repair and river transport. Although Thais can naturally be found in all corners of the city, the old rich tend to live in walled manors in Suan Phlu and Pathumwan, the middle-class in tall condo projects off Sukhumvit Road, the working-class along the river and the poor in the slums of Khlong Toey or Makkasan. Over a quarter of the city’s population come from Chinese or mixed Thai and Chinese descent. Chinese influence can be felt throughout central Thailand’s Chao Phraya Delta but in Bangkok it is so strong that in certain areas of the city – such as Yaowarat, Bangkok’s Chinatown, or Pathumwan, the city’s wealthiest precinct – you can almost imagine you’re in Hong Kong or Singapore rather than Thailand. Although Chinese Thais live in every quarter of the sprawling city, their presence is most evident in a densely populated core of multi-story shophouses along Charoen Krung and Yaowarat roads near the Chao Phraya River, a precinct known as Yaowarat or Sampeng. The Chinese in these areas tend to engage themselves in all manner of commerce, from wholesale trade in auto parts to the manufacture of high-end kitchen utensils. In other parts of the city they dominate higher education, international trade, banking and white-collar employment in general. Also prominent are people of South Asian descent, who make up Bangkok’s second largest Asian minority. Most trace their heritage to northern India, including many Sikhs who immigrated following the 1947 Partition of India. Other South Asian nationalities found in Bangkok include Sinhalese, Bangladeshis, Nepalis and Pakistanis. Most of the city’s South Asians can be found in two areas. The heaviest concentration find themselves wedged in at the north end of Yaowarat between Chakraphet and Phahurat roads, in a neighborhood known to English speakers as Little India. South Asian residents are also more thinly spread along and nearby Charoen Krung Road, near junctions with Silom and Surawong roads, an area collectively known as Bang Rak. In both areas they operate a multitude of successful retail businesses, particularly textile dealers and tailor shops. Malays and Thais who are part-Malay and who adhere to Islam make up the third largest minority in Bangkok. Like residents of South Asian descent, many can be found living in Bang Rak, and like the majority Thais they tend to bangkok101.com

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S N A P S H OT S

be found in blue-collar jobs. Centuries before the Thais migrated into the area, the Chao Phraya River Delta in and around Bangkok was home to the Mon. Bangkokians of Mon descent can still be found in some districts, particularly on Ko Kret, an island in the middle of the river in northern Bangkok and in neighboring Pathum Thani Province. The Mon have their own language and culture, both of which have exercised a significant influence on modern Thai culture. Bangkok residents of European descent may number around 100,000. The vast majority, unlike their Asian counterparts, find themselves in Thailand for only a few months or years for reasons of work or study. Perhaps reflecting their significant roles in the early development of Bangkok, residents of German and British descent appear to be most prominent. Whatever the nationality, no matter how little or how much money may line their pockets, Bangkok manages to accommodate all comers in a wide variety of circumstances. Addicted to the city’s throbbing, megalopolitan heartbeat, most would not choose to live elsewhere even when they can. F EBRUA RY 2014 | 29

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S N A P S H OT S

listings

HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall [map 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo Tue -Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam noen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [map 4/A3]

M.r. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [map 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 02-286-8185 Sat-Sun 10 am-5pm, Mon-Fri by appt B 50 / B 20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.

VIMANMEK MANSION [map 8/F8] 139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd | 02-281-1569 9:30 am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.

SUAN PAKKAD palace [MAP 8/K11]

Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 suanpakkad.com | 9am-4pm | B100 jimthompsonhouse.com | 9am-5pm B100 / B 50 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed graduate and former spook who revived Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard the hand-woven Thai silk industry before pays testament to her dedication to disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things ERAWAN SHRINE [map 4/G5] to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan home beside a pungent canal: six traditional BTS Chit Lom teak houses from around the country kept Don’t expect serenity here. This is one exactly as he left them.

of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.

GANESHA SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

TRIMURTI SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30 pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.

SHRINES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [map 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094 8:30am-4:30pm | B 400 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in

30 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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listings

a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.

WAT ARUN [map 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd 02-465-5640 | watarun.org 8am-5pm | B 20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.

WAT PO (reclining buddha) [map 7/D12]

Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd 02-226-0369 | watpho.com 8am-noon, 1pm-9pm | B100 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.

WAT MAHATHAT [map 7/C8] Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm | Free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are

set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.

WAT RATCHANATDA [map 7/K8] Mahachai Rd | 02-224-8807 9am-5pm | free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.

WAT SAKET [map 7/L8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.

WAT SUTHAT & the GIANT SWING [map 7/H9] Bamrung Muang Rd | 02-222-9632 9am-5pm | B 20 Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to

S N A P S H OT S

catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.

WAT TRAIMIT [map 6/L3] 661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B 20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [map 8/L11, 12]

85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng). Ratchaprarop Rd 02-245-3008 | bangkokdolls.com Mon-Sat 8am-5pm | free Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.

bangkokian MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking

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S N A P S H OT S

listings

revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.

Madame tussauds [map 4/C4] 6F, Siam Discovery Centre Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-658-0060 madametussauds.com/Bangkok 10am -9pm | B 800 / B 600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe's famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.

MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 02-653-5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm ( App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it's open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.

Museum of Siam [map 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier 02-622-2599 | ndmi.or.th Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | Free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with 32 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [map 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang 02-224-1333 | thailandmuseum.com Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B 200 | no photo Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam's main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.

RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [map 7/K7] 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02-621-0044 nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hardto-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [map 7/B4] 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 02-424-0004 | 9am-5pm B 30 / B100 photo / B 200 video This collection of ornate royal barges,

some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.

MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [map 1/F6] 296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan province | 02-709-1644 | ancientcity.com B 500 / B 250 kids / B1500 private guide in English for two hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing.

THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1/E5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya Nakorn Pathom province nfat.org 02-482-2013-15 | Sat-Sun tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; MonFri: by appointment | Free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, props and costumes. bangkok101.com

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old town festival

phuket

n Phuket, tin preceded tourism, and long before the arrival of beach resorts, the utilitarian mineral gave birth to a trading city, today’s Phuket Town, near Tongkah Bay. Intermarriage among Hokkien Chinese immigrants, local Thais and Malays, and expatriate British produced a unique Peranakan culture that prospered in the growing town. Aside from developing a unique language, the Phuket Peranakan inherited an elegant urban architecture built during the 18th and 19th centuries, the peak of the tin empire. The designs are typical of Straits Settlement architecture in Penang, Melaka and Singapore. Thais often incorrectly refer to this style as “Sino-Portuguese” when in fact the Portuguese influence is virtually nil. Sinocolonial or Sino-British might be a more appropriate term, although Phuket was never under British rule like Penang, Melaka or Singapore. The predominant style in the old town is the “shophouse”, from the Hokkien tiam choo (literally, “shop house”), although many such buildings were designed purely as residential villas for wealthy Baba families. Each unit is part of a row of similar houses, each claiming narrow street frontage but extending away from the street along a long narrow plot. Old Phuket has its own culinary specialities as well, including Hokkien dishes like moo hong (braised pork, served with rice) and mee hokkien (a noodle soup made with seafood). To celebrate the town’s unique history and culture, the Old Phuket Foundation sponsors an Old Phuket Festival annually in the week before Chinese New Year. Thalang Road and Soi Romanee are closed to vehicular traffic, becoming pedestrian-only for the week-long event, which features Peranakan food and costumes, cultural shows, Chinese opera performances and colourful parades.

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T R AV E L

up country now

Trang Underwater Wedding Ceremony

King Narai Fair

Chainat Straw-Bird Festival

February 13-15 Trang Underwater Wedding Ceremony Sixteen years after the first mass underwater wedding ceremony, blushing brides will again be squeezing garters over their wetsuits and descending into the deep blue seas just off Trang province’s Pak Meng Beach. Packages start at B25,000 and include meals, costumes, air tanks and a videotape to wow the grandchildren with.

Until February 28 Dolphin Watching in Bang Pakong River Irrawaddy freshwater dolphins migrate to the Bang Pakong River estuary at the end of the monsoon and stay until the end of February. Local boat tours offer dolphin-watching along with the rare chance to view various species of birds, bats, and monkeys living within the riverbank, as well as the lifestyles of local fishermen.

February 7-16 Chainat Straw-Bird Festival In Chainat, a little-known province in the Central Plains, the locals have taken to fashioning hay, a by-product of rice cultivation, into massive bird-shaped stacks known as hoon fang. Staged in front of the provincial town’s City Hall, this annual festival offers visitors the chance to admire their outlandish handiwork.

February 17-18 Ban Chiang World Heritage Festival A highlight of the northeast is Udon Thani’s Ban Chiang, an archaeological site where red pottery shards discovered in the 1960s turned out to be remnants of Asia’s oldest Bronze Age settlement. Cultural performances, sales of local produce, and a light and sound show will all feature in this celebration of the must-see Unesco World Heritage site.

February 15-23 King Narai Fair One of the most favoured kings of the legendary Ayutthaya period, King Narai was a great believer in international relations. What better way to honour his memory, then, than a touristfriendly tribute around the ruins of Lopburi province’s Phra Narai Ratchanivet, the palace he built? Visitors can enjoy an open-air market and a fashion show of traditional Thai costumes. 36 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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Ban Chiang World Heritage Festival

February 26-March 7 Kalasin Prae Wa Silk Festival Silk lovers should slink up to northeastern Thailand’s Kalasin province this month. Phu Thai settlers, descendants of tribal Thai immigrants from Laos, are renowned for unique silk textile designs called prae wa, and this festival, due to be held in the town’s Rim Pao Hotel, will be full of them. Lots of contests, and a best of Kalasin fair, will accompany the sale. bangkok101.com

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hotel review

The Metropolitan

Tucked down an alcove running off South Sathorn Rd, The Metropolitan has cemented a status as one of Bangkok’s foremost boutique hotels, attracting a trendy, youngish crowd drawn to its minimalist design – with plenty of modern Asian touches – and top-drawer food and drink outlets. From the moment guests arrive in the wide front courtyard and step into the high-ceilinged foyer, it’s clear that some serious thought has gone into the furnishings and decor, plain white walls set off by bright reds, low-key creams and burnished browns. This is an interior geared toward maximum effect while drawing on a relatively simple pallette. Topping it off is the light perfume hanging in the air. Is it jasmine? Maybe a whiff of lavender in there as well? It’s chic without being ostentatious – classy and comfortable without trying too hard to be slick and shiny. When executed so well, this combination seems effortless and invites the question of why more hotels don’t get it quite so right. Upstairs, the clean lines and muted tones continue – the rooms filled with white linens and sprawling sofas, along with trimmings of dark wood that stop well short of anything bordering on Lanna kitsch. The open-plan bathrooms are just as impressive, walk-in shower stalls shorn of glass. It feels a little like you’re showering outdoors – in a good way. 38 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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It’s an entirely fitting home for Nahm, one of Bangkok’s top Thai restaurants and the brainchild of Australian chef and restaurateur David Thompson, who has been one of the central figures in the explosion of interest in Thai food. Thompson is now more than a chef, ascending to the ranks of food scholars. Few restaurants walk the tightrope between innovation and authenticity as deliciously as Nahm – truly, it is genuinely deserving of the hype that surrounds it. Highlights include the coconut and turmeric curry of blue swimmer crab with banana blossoms and asian pennywort (B620) and the stir-fried kurobuta pork with yellow beans and ginger (B650). And on top of that, the cocktails are pretty damn impressive as well, riffing on the staples and adding a few concoctions from left field. If that’s wet your whistle, you can kick on at the Met Bar, a sleek cocktail and lounge bar that is perfect for a nightcap, just round the corner from Nahm. Keep an eye out for events at the Met because their occasional art exhibitions tend to be intriguing.

the metropolitan bangkok

[MAP 5/k7]

27 South Sathorn Rd | 02-625-3333 comohotels.com/metropolitanbangkok

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hotel review

T R AV E L

Centara Watergate Pavilion As you head north along Ratchaprarop Rd, past CentralWorld and then over the heavingly busy Petchaburi Rd, the gleaming luxury hotels of Sukhumvit, Silom and Sathorn can begin to feel further and further away. Centara Watergate Pavilion, then, at first seems slightly out of place, perched atop a shopping mall amid street stalls and shophouses. If the space at first seems incongruous, though, the hotel makes excellent use of it, creating a chic environment with just enough style to keep guests interested, without going overboard. By the time you enter the lobby, you’re already several storeys above ground. The space is white and clean, minimally designed, yet fans out invitingly to the in-house Café 9, with its outdoor dining area. As is often the case with flagship restaurants at hotels, Café 9 doesn’t try too hard to push the boundaries but is still a completely enjoyable setting for a lunchtime mojito and an early-afternoon snack. As you proceed higher, so the stakes are raised. Walk is the hotel’s rooftop bar and, when it comes to the cocktails, doesn’t pull its punches, embracing a chilli theme wholeheartedly. It’s a powerful flavour that isn’t necessarily easy to balance. At Walk, the addition of chilli works best when it is properly leavened by lighter, fruitier flavours. For example, the Spicy Mojito (all B300) blends Havana Club, cane sugar, mint leaves, lime and soda water. The chilli bangkok101.com

Book 1.indb 39

provides an explosive first mouthful but the drink’s base then delivers a subtler second and third stage. Equally, with the Tom Khar Martini, white rum and Malibu are offset by the coconut rum and galangal – it works surprisingly well, given galangal is not an easy ingredient to bring into a cocktail. Alongside, Chilli Hip is the sitdown dining area with a bold mixture of Thai and international dishes, perfect for guests keen to explore local cuisine. The suites echo the light-toned interiors of the lobby – decked out in white without tipping over into chilled formality. Indeed, they are exceptionally comfortable, the Metropolitan Suite equipped with a wrap-around balcony, an expansive walk-in shower and a double Jacuzzi. After all that, head to Cense for a signature de-stressing head and shoulder massage (B650), which goes for one hour. It’s an all-over treatment but when the work on the head and neck is both energising and likely to leave you in a hazy, dream-like state for hours afterward.

centara watergate pavilion

[MAP 3/f1]

567 Ratchaprarop Rd | 02-625-1234 centarahotelsresorts.com/centara/cwb

february 2 0 1 4 | 3 9

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up country escape

T R AV E L

the

jewel south of the

BY LUC CITRINOT

Songkhla City was a busy trading port for 300 years but its old-fashioned charm is now a major drawcard

for those looking for a low-key getaway

eard of Songkhla? If you have, chances are you associate this province with Hat Yai, Southern Thailand’s largest metropolis. But Songkhla is also the name of a middle-sized city, located a mere 28km away, or 30 minutes car, from Hat Yai. Despite their proximity, the two cities are miles apart. Hat Yai has a population of a quarter million. It is brash, crowded, polluted and has very little charm with countless buildings showcasingcthe very worst of 70s and 80s architecture. It is, however, bustling with life, attracting southern Thais looking for work and Malaysians, who come mostly for the cheap goods and fun. Songkhla City, by contrast, has a mere 80,000 inhabitants and seems to have been frozen in time, as if there was a need to redress the excesses of its bigger, brasher neighbour. Don’t expect high-rise buildings, nor fancy shopping centres or trendy ‘hi-so’ shops. Instead, what you will find is a quiet city with a breezy coastal location (parts of it are nestled along the sea, face out towards the Gulf of Thailand, others back on to Thailand’s largest inner lake) and historic charm in spades. Its old port was a busy centre of trading for 300 years. In the latter half of the 17th century, towards the end of the Thai Kingdom of Ayutthaya, Hokkien Chinese traders settled, bringing prosperity to the city. They then received the endorsement of various Thai Kings. Today, the heritage of these Chinese traders is still very much alive and Songkhla City can probably be considered the best preserved and most authentic Chinese enclave in all Thailand. Some of the area’s old shophouses back to the King Rama III-era (around 1840). Most, however, were built 80 to 100 years ago, and – with their mix of western and oriental styles, wooden balconies and carved facades painted in fading colours – bear a striking similarity with the shophouses found in Penang and Phuket. The old quarter is demarked by Nang Ngam Road, Songkhla’s main street, as well as Nakhon Nai, Nakhon Nok, Yala, Yaring and Pattani streets. Walking between these roads, venturing into the old-school shops, is like entering a time-warp into a bygone age. Restaurants with multi-coloured tiles are still cooled by their original fans; old ladies sell cakes in front of their houses; and more than a few coffee shops double up as antique shops. A few batik (traditional textile) workshops also survive. Amid this living heritage, there are a couple of structures not to be missed. In the heart of the old town stands Wat Matchimawat, a temple built during the late Ayutthaya period. The complex is an eclectic mix of styles, the main chapel (Phra Ubosot) decorated with exquisite frescoes depicting life in the old port. Nearby is the City Pillar shrine, a typical

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up country escape

Chinese structure looking like a gate. The most stunning building in the city centre, though, is the Songkhla National Museum (Wed-Sun 9am-4pm). Built between 1879 and 1894 in traditional Chinesestyle, the former residence of Songkhla’s governor has recently been restored and now hosts a very comprehensive collection of art from across southern Thailand. Not all of Songkhla’s charms are man-made. There are also pristine beaches near the city centre – ones that have been spared the concrete eyesores that plague many a Thai coastal city. The only man-made element you are likely to come across, in fact, is likely to be on Samila beach, where bronze statues of a mermaid, and a cat and mouse, both inspired by Thai folklore, draw tourists with cameras. What could be the secret of Songkhla City’s resilience to overdevelopment? Maybe it has something to do with General Prem Tinnasulanonda. The former Prime Minister and President of the Privy Council of Thailand, a body of appointed advisors to His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, is Muang Songkhla’s most famous citizen and the driving force behind Songkhla’s preservation. The Pathammarong Museum – a simple structure – displays memorabilia owned by him and his family. Finally, a sojourn in Songkhla City could not be complete without spending a few hours exploring the neighbouring 42 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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Island of Ko Yo. Located in the midst of Songhkla’s great lake, Ko Yo Island is populated by fishers’ communities who live in wooden houses with a distinct architectural style. Also, dominating the island in the vicinity of the Tinnasulanon Bridge, is the Institute of Southern Thai Studies. As well as a small museum depicting the lifestyles, folklore and customs of Southern people, it offers stunning views of the island and Muang Songkhla. There is no question that the distance from Bangkok, lack of world-class hotels and the slow-burning Muslim separatist violence that has plagued the region for years now (check your country’s travel advice so you can make an informed decision) are holding back Songkhla’s desire to become a major tourist destination. But, given the city’s history, culture and laidback character, it’s surely only a matter of time before this southern jewel gets to shine.

Getting there:

They are a dozen daily flights between Bangkok and Hat Yai as well as scheduled flights from Chiang Mai and Phuket. Check the websites of Nok Air, Orient Thai, Thai AirAsia and Thai Airways. From Hat Yai, mini-buses commute to Songkhla City in 30 minutes, with buses departing almost every 30 minutes from locations in Hat Yai City centre and the airport.

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RAPTURE RUINS IN The

A once-opulent city, Hampi was ravaged by war but remains full of treasures for travellers BY KEITH MUNDY

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over the border

T R AV E L

othing prepares you for the strangeness of Hampi. No matter what you’ve heard before which might explain it, about a great ruined city in an extraordinary landscape, you murmur to yourself, “I don’t believe this”. Trying to get a handle on what lies before your eyes, a string of things run through your mind. A western movie location -- the rocky Arizona badlands – dotted with ancient Hindu temples. An abstract sculpture park, exquisitely formed boulders placed decorously on top of each other, populated by ash-daubed holy men. A fantasy out of the Arabian Nights, or is it all a brilliant historical SFX show? You reach this wonder via a railway halt called Hospet, which lies about a third of the way from Bangalore to Mumbai. Lurching in a local bus towards Hampi, the prospect is rural and routine. So far, so normal for the Deccan plateau of central south India. Suddenly the scenery erupts. Everywhere, gargantuan rocks perch precariously upon each other as if frozen for eons in the act of tumbling. All is stonily arid and eerily astounding, then you dip down into a lush green vale of banana plantations and coconut groves. Equally abruptly, there looms a kind of Hindu acropolis where finely sculpted temples cling to a huge rounded outcrop of smooth granite, across which monkeys scamper. Were the people who built a great city in this extraordinary environment drawn first by the mystical atmosphere? Or was it simply the practical assets of abundant water, fertile valleys and defensible topography? And, of course, plenty of building materials, which you could just roll along? And how could such a recently vibrant metropolis – hugely powerful only four and a half centuries ago – virtually disappear overnight? Hampi is history with mystery on a scale unparallelled. And one of the puzzles is why this uniquely wonderful place is so little known. Perhaps it’s because India is chock-a-block with ancient monuments. Perhaps it’s because it’s in the middle of nowhere. Or because it can barely muster a two-star hotel. But it certainly ain’t because Hampi is not beautiful, entrancing, astounding, mysterious, invigorating, colourful, spiritual and downright funky like few places on earth. Hampi per se is a village of narrow alleys, most of its low flat-roofed buildings now guest houses and restaurants, religious paraphernalia and ethnic souvenir shops, clustered beside an ancient temple. The towering stepgabled gateway, or gopura, of Virupaksha Temple has welcomed pilgrims for at least a thousand years. In that time, the village had a phenomenal experience. It grew into the greatest city in all of India and one of the grandest and most powerful imperial capitals in the whole world: Vijayanagara, the City of Victory. And then it collapsed back into an obscure rural settlement once more. It’s an incredible story, and a salutary one for believers in permanence. Contemporary visitors were dumbfounded. In 1443, the Persian ambassador Abdu’r-Razzaq wrote: “The city of Vijayanagar [sic] is such that the pupil of the eye has never seen a place like it, and the ear of intelligence has never been informed that there existed anything to equal it in the bangkok101.com

Book 1.indb 45

world... it would be impossible to give an idea of it without entering into extensive details.” Here are a few to be getting on with. Vijayanagara was founded in the mid-14th century as the capital of a new dynasty of Hindu kings, who rose to power by expelling the Muslim invaders and unifying south India’s disparate chiefs. With astonishing rapidity, the capital expanded into a huge city extending over 26 square kilometres with three rings of mighty fortifications protecting it. From this redoubt, the Vijayanagara kings soon controlled most of south India and commanded enormous wealth. The city was a great trading centre as well as a political centre and riches flowed into it. The abundant local stone was fashioned into palaces, temples, parade grounds, forts, marketplaces, elephant stables, barracks and baths, creating a fabulous metropolis. All who visited Vijayanagara in its 15th century heyday were overwhelmed by what they found. Italians, F EBRUA RY 2014 | 45

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over the border

Persians, Portuguese and Russians, none of them strangers to greatness or to opulence, believed it to be the richest city in India, perhaps in all the East, on a par in all respects with Rome or Constantinople, with Cairo or Peking. They found a great religious centre and a powerful trading place for rubies and diamonds, pearls and coral, elephants and horses, camphor and pepper, sandalwood and musk, dealing with far-off lands from China to Arabia to Europe. But Hindu Vijayanagara’s vaulting success irked and threatened the sultans of the Muslim realms to the north. Finally, these Deccan sultanates put aside their rivalries and joined together to destroy the City of Victory. In 1565, the sultans’ coalition army sacked the city with devastating ferocity. The wrecking and pillaging went on for five months. Fabulous Vijayanagara was ruined. Though worship continued at some of the Hindu shrines, most of the vast site became a wilderness of dilapidated and partly buried structures, ransacked over the years by treasure seekers and disturbed by farmers. Only in the 20th century did recovery and restoration bring back some of the historical glory. Structures were carefully restored 46 | F EBRUA RY 2014

Book 1.indb 46

and the whole area became protected as a World Heritage Site. This is what you discover today. The ruins lie across a rugged, hilly and boulder-strewn landscape through which the Tungabhadra River flows, and gurgling channels lead off to groves of rich greenery. In this scenic drama, the man-made structures at first play hide-and-seek, eclipsed by nature’s fantasy, until you get close, when their finely sculpted forms rivet your attention and transport you back to a fabulous episode of India’s history. You find temples and palaces, fort walls and watchtowers, ceremonial platforms and elephant stables, the geometric forms of an empty reservoir and many more stunning relics of a once mighty power. You wander among Indian pilgrims and holy men along stony riverside paths, wend your way through verdant valleys, and clamber up rocky hills for breathtaking views. You take unbeaten tracks to lost ruins where local people plough and herd in age-old ways, board a coracle to cross the Tungabhadra, and receive the blessings of an orangerobed sadhu. You fall under the spell of an astonishing site which has somehow, quite inexplicably, escaped world fame. bangkok101.com

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bangkok gets dressed.

salads, wraps, sandwiches, paninis, soups, smoothies Mercury Ville 540 Ploenchit Road Chidlom/Langsuan Intersection Ground Floor BTS: Chidlom Open Daily 10am - 10pm Tel. 02-658-6688

Siam Paragon 991 Rama1 Road Ground Floor (Opposite MK Gold) BTS: Siam Open Daily 10am - 10pm Tel. 02-610-7714

www.dressedsalads.com www.facebook.com/dressedthailand Home delivery via

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a r t

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mixing materials South Korean artist Gi-ok Jeon combines various techniques on a single canvas, including ink painting, lithography, collage, and embroidery. Her solo exhibition, Playful Prayer, will be showing until February 23 at Rotunda Gallery (195 Neilsen Hays Library, Surawong Rd; 02 233 1731; rama9art.org/gallery/rotunda). The artworks are created on natural Thai bamboo paper that originates from Lam Pang province and they represent the land and cultural space where Gi-ok belongs. Gi-ok continues focusing on finding her own identity in her original culture but at the same time paints Buddhaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s image, the shape of the Bo tree leaves and the form of Luk Yang Na in order to draw her personal experience in every-day life. Her installation is inspired by the feeling of energy and calm evocative of the way Luk Yang Na (a plum falling from Don Yang Na, which is a tree she found at a temple where she visited during her stay in Northeast province) falls through the air. She will try to capture the mysterious and spiritual space by hanging 500 pieces of Luk Yang Na, which all are attached to Patoong. Gi-ok Jeon has an MFA from the Central Academy of Fine Arts in Beijing. She taught Asian ink painting during her artist-in-residence at Chulalongkorn University in Bangkok and has also taken a printmaking course at Chulalongkorn University.

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ART & C u lt u r e

exhibitions

Tonson Gallery Anniversary

Three Worlds

three worlds

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre 939 Rama 1 Rd | 02-214-6630 bacc.or.th | Tues-Sun 10am-9pm

Secret Natural

[MAP 8/j13]

Until February 16 Long-time Bangkok resident, art and fiction writer Andrew J West aligns poetry, photography, and art, through a collaboration with 27 of the country’s best-known artists. The artists have been photographed beside a work of their own, which West responds to with a short poetic verse.

Saengjun Limlohakul

secret natural

Ardel Gallery of Modern Art [MAP 2/g10] 99/45 moo. 18 Km 10.5 Boromrachonanee Rd | 02-422-2092 ardelgallery.com | Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm

Until March 2 Ariya Kitticharoenwiwat’s sculptures deal with the fragile connection between nature and humanity. In his latest series of steel and titanium three-dimensional creations, the KMIT lecturer constructs delicate organic forms with woven threads that evoke growth and transition.

Saengjun Limlohakul Kathmandu Photo Gallery [MAP 5/e5] 87 Pan Rd | 02-234-6700 kathmandu-bkk.com | Tues-Sun 11am-7pm

Until February 23 In the latest in the ongoing series of exhibitions that aims to bring recognition to senior photographers otherwise neglected from official documentations, Saengjun Limlohakul’s previously unexhibited prints show 1950s Phuket and offer a unique historical insight into the holiday island’s tranformation.

10th anniversary exhibition 100 Tonson Gallery [MAP 4/j7] 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | 02-684-1527 100tonsongallery.com | Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm

Until March 16 Marking its 10-year anniversary, 100 Tonson Gallery has consistently proven to be one of Thailand’s most dynamic art platforms. The gallery’s creative initiative has allowed it to stage engaging exhibitions of cutting-edge, multidisciplinary art by more than 80 Thai and international artists. 50 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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Hilo

hilo

We*Do Gallery Bangkok [MAP 3/s7] 79 Thong Lor Soi 8 | 02-391-4866 wedo-gallery.com | Tues-Sat 10am-6pm

Until March 31 Designer-artist Marre Moerel presents a unique collection of sculptural conceptual vases. A former lecturer at Parsons School of Design, the Madrid-based designer sets up stimulating crossovers between design, sculpture, installation, and photography. bangkok101.com

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Man on a mission Hossein Farmani hopes the new Lucie Awards exhibition inspires people to take better photos BY TOM STURROCK

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exhibitions

ART & C u lt u r e

“everyone thinks they’re a star, on social media and so on... but i’ve never seen chickens with such attitude”

Photos: Annelie Vandendae, Buck Holzemer, Lucy Snowe

ossein Farmani owns three galleries – in New York, Los Angeles and Bangkok – and travels the world preaching his own gospel, which he hopes helps people develop a greater appreciation of photography and, ultimately, capture more striking images themselves. “In one year, I must see one million images so for something to speak to me, it has to be quite special, it can’t just be a duplicate of another image I’ve seen before,” Farmani says. It was in this spirit that Farmani created the International Photography Awards – to celebrate master photographers with 30 or 40 years of experience – and the Lucie Awards, a competition that recognises new talent. This month, his Rooftop Gallery in Thong Lor hosts an exhibition of work drawn from the Lucie Awards. The images on display range across several categories and subject matter. They are, though, united in their ambition to arrest the viewer and capture the eye. “There are many things that we look for – originality is a big part of it but it’s also images that tell a story, and then composition and colour,” Farmani says of the way he assesses the submissions. “But it’s also whether it affects me emotionally.” He singles out one series of images – a collection of photographs of chickens and roosters shot in a studio by Lucy Snowe. “The fact that we go through this world and everyone thinks they’re a star, through social media and so on but then there’s this image of a super-proud chicken,” Farmani says. “I’ve never seen chickens with such attitude.” It’s not all so light-hearted, of course. Farmani is also drawn to photojournalism from warzones, particularly the photographer’s ability to work under such duress. “There are a lot of press images like that,” he says. “But it’s amazing that even in all that chaos, photographers manage to achieve a really high quality of composition.” bangkok101.com

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When the exhibition opens on February 11, Farmani hopes it will attract people from outside the obvious circle of artists and photographers. His goal, after all, is to make photography more accessible and to raise the standard from the bottom up. “My goal with my galleries has always been to create a dialogue – I don’t want it to be just for experts,” he says. “I want people to come and be inspired and that’s why I exhibit work that I think people should see. I don’t want photography to be just for people in the art community, who already know about all this stuff.” Farmani hopes that, by exposing enthusiastic amateurs to beautiful images, their work will also improve. He laments that, in the age of digital photography, when it’s so cheap and easy to simply click away, badly composed images proliferate. “Whenever I travel around the world talking about photography, I want to encourage people but I also want to cut down on what I call ‘photo pollution’, all the bad images that people take,” he says. “I often say to people, ‘before you push the button just think about it’. If this was film, they’d be really aware of whether that photo is right or not. But because it’s all digital, people can now take so many images. ‘‘Some of my friends call me a ‘photography missionary’ and I guess that’s been my job for the past 10 years.”

lucie awards best of show february 11-march 11 rooftop gallery

[MAP 3/R6]

440/10 Thong Lor | 0915-736-841 Facebook: rooftopGalleryBangkok | open

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North Indian Thali (Set Meals)

Paper Masala Dosa Raj Kachori

Gujarati

ble

ila ava n o i pt in o ......

Samosa

Rajasthani Indian Desserts, Wedding Events, Corporate Catering……

Pao Bhaji

saras.co.th ......

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Pure Vegetarian Food !!! Savour traditional flavor from all over INDIA !!!

Chola Bhature Corn Kernal

Bangkok Outlet:

PATTAYA Outlet:

Sukhumvit Soi 20 (Near Windsor Hotel) Bangkok 10110 02 401 8484

557, Sun City Hotel, Pratumnak Rd. Pattaya Tai (South) 038 424 769

SarasVegFood

saras.co.th

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cheat notes

The Burma Cookbook: Recipes from the Land of a Million Pagodas

By Robert Carmack and Morrison Polkinghorne

Author and food stylist Robert Carmack, who has trained in French cuisine, worked for James Beard and researched The Good Cook series for Time-Life Books, has compiled a delightful collection of 175 Burmese recipes, both vintage and contemporary. With its tightly written historical background, shopping tips, culinary etiquette guide and explanatory introductions to the recipes, the attractively designed tome doubles as a primer to help readers understand one of the world’s most neglected and under-rated cuisines. Co-author Morrison Polkinghorne, who with Carmack operates foodie tours of Bangkok and Yangon via the Globetrotting Gourmet, provided most of the photography. Carmack and Polkinghorne had exclusive access to The Strand’s hotel archives of historical menus, sketches and photos during production, which set the tone for the book’s retro Edwardian look.

ART & C u lt u r e

7 Days in Myanmar

By 30 Great Photographers

In a single week, from April 27 to May 4 last year, 30 of the world’s leading photographers roamed throughout Myanmar to create perhaps the most comprehensive pictorial portrait of this once-isolated nation ever to be produced. The resulting 276-page coffee table book contains over 300 images (edited down from tens of thousands) by such noted shooters as Abbas, Steve McCurry, Michael Yamashita, Bruno Barbey and Raghu Rai. From every corner of the country, the collection covers Myanmar’s people, landscapes, industries and traditions, from major urban centres and tourist sites to villages in the northern hills and along the southern coast. Enlightening text includes a foreword by Dr Thant Myint-U, an introduction to Myanmar by veteran AP correspondent Denis Gray, an essay on 19th-century photography in colonial Burma by British Library historian John Falconer and a look behind-the-scenes by EDM editor Nicholas Grossman.

suriyothai Chatrilerm Yukol | 2001

This bloated white elephant of a film isn’t good so much as grandiose – but it makes an interesting study of that old historic wound, the sacking of Ayutthaya by the Burmese more than 200 years ago. One of the top-grossing Thai films of all time, this three-hour hog boasts royal intrigue, blood-spurting executions and acting of such stiffness that it seems that the entire cast is dreaming of leaving behind their woodenness to become real live actors some day. At the heart of the film is the beloved Queen Suriyothai, brave Amazon, elephant-rider, martyr of the Siam resistance. bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE photofeature

Temple of Art, Design & Gastronomy Bangkok 101 was delighted to be among the first magazines to view Iniala Beach House, a stunningly unique resort dedicated to art, design, gastronomy and philanthropy on Natai Beach in Phang Nga province, just 20 minutes’ drive from Phuket International Airport. Entrepreneur-philanthropist Mark Weingard commissioned 10 world-famous architects and designers to create 10 opulent suites across three beachfront villas and a spectacular penthouse, all fronting a pristine, 7km stretch of Andaman sand and surf. This design effort, unmatched in Thailand, included such impressive names as Brazil’s Fernando and Humberto Campana, Spain’s A-Cero, England’s Graham Lamb, Ireland’s Joseph Walsh (who created a custom version of his famed Enignum canopy bed for the Library Suite in the Collector’s Villa, pictured right) and Thailand’s Eggarat Wongcharit.

iniala.com by Joe Cummings

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ART & CULTURE photofeature

Aziamendi, the resort’s exclusive dining venue, transforms Iniala into a destination for the keenest gastronomes, including foodies who might be staying elsewhere in Phang-Nga or Phuket. Weingard visited eight Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain’s Basque region before asking 34-year-old Eneko Atxa, chef-owner of Azurmendi, to create an inspired cuisine to match the inspired spaces. Along with his Spanish-trained kitchen crew, Spain’s youngest three-Michelin-star chef combines his signature flair with carefully selected local flavours, aromas, and colours. For outsiders, a reservation at Aziamendi includes limo service from the airport, a welcome cocktail en route before being seated in the dining room, exquisitely designed to resemble underwater climes and filled with original art. Designed by A-cero, the restaurant boasts undulating timber waves on the ceiling to symbolise the Andaman Sea, while tree-like tables and lush green velvet chairs represent the surrounding tropical landscape. It’s open to the public as well, Tuesday through Sunday, 6pm until midnight. Menus start from B5000 – call 09-3779-2312 or email reservations@aziamendi.com. An architect by training, a journalist by profession and a designer by vocation, Barcelona’s Ramon Ubeda designed the Swarovski snooker table, studded with 500,000 crystals, in the Bar. Ubeda also designed scaled-down muaythai rings for the Gym. Andy Warhol lithographs of Muhammed Ali add colour. The central courtyard of the Collector’s Villa, designed by the Campana Brothers, features pillars adorned with mixed ceramics from Lampang.

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INIALA BEACH HOUSE

bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE photofeature

Around 3,000 individual ceramic pieces – including cups, bowls, plates and teapots – were assembled by the Brazilian brothers in the lounge of the Collector’s Villa. Villa Bianca fuses Asian and European contemporary design inside and out, guided by A-Cero’s minimalist architecture. Organic, naturally flowing interiors blend white hues and natural wood to evoke serenity, while Russia’s Philosophy of Design takes the classic matryoshka nesting doll as inspiration for everything from bed alcoves to lamps. Made Djirna contributes Garden of Eden, a modern whirlwind of metallic paints and luminous colours, has its roots in the traditional Balinese narrative style, evoking cosmological understanding, unity, and environmental preservation. The Penthouse, designed by British architectinterior designer Graham Lamb, features a unique wall-to-wall carpet system laid over latex layers to recreate a futuristic, sand-inspired roomscape that is a delight to frolic upon. A hanging bed, organically curved walls and wall-to-ceiling views of the beach and sea below combine to create an almost surreal living space. A massive sunken sofa in a sitting room of the Collector’s Villa is perfect for entertaining. Mark Brazier-Jones designed all furniture and accessories in the Sensual Suite, a luscious, romantic boudoir-themed space filled with twinkling crystals and jewel-toned fabrics. Lighting behind the bed may be changed to suit the mood.

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INIALA BEACH HOUSE

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ART & CULTURE photofeature

The work of Thailand’s own Eggarat Wongcharit puts forth a very strong presence at Villa Siam. Inspired by the topography of nearby Phang Nga Bay, beds, hanging sofas and other furnishings represent karst islands rising from the sea. Master bamboo craftsman Korakot Aromdee wove intricate cocoon beds out of wicker, allowing the weave to twist and flow upward to form ‘clouds’ on the ceiling. The piece de resistance at Villa Siam is a serene spa room designed to resemble the interior of a giant Thai temple bell. Calligraphy inscribing English translations of verses from the Theravada Buddhist canon overlay the golden interior. Art photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom, best known for his satirical Pink Man series, contributes Glass Buddha, a triptych of illuminated boxes featuring close-ups of Buddha images rendered in bright primary colours. Renowned textile artist Jakkai Siributr contributes Luang Porr, a striking mixed-media piece in which a variety of Buddhist amulets and other common Thai talismans are held together by a mesmerising hemp weave Japanese-inspired koi fish and marine motifs decorate the walls of the bathroom.

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INIALA BEACH HOUSE

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xxx xxx

xxxxxx Xxxx xxxxx WORDS BY XXXXX

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tournedos rossini prime p74

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AROy new brunch at w hotel

Not content with being one of Bangkok’s most fun design-driven hotels, W Bangkok (106 North Sathorn Rd; 02-344-4000; whotelbangkok.com) this month moves into the brunch game. From 12.30pm-4.30pm on Saturdays, The Kitchen Table will host a brunch featuring foie gras and truffle terrine, poached lobster tart and Queen scallops for B2200 – or B2800 including coktails, wine and beer. Amid all the eating and drinking, there will be showcases of Bangkok’s up-and-coming fashion designers.

rossini’s recognised

One of Bangkok’s finest modern Italian restaurants, Rossini’s (Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd; 02-649-8364; sheratongrandesukhumvit.com) has been recognised with the prestigious Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, one of the most important accolades in the hospitality industry, rarely awarded in a country where local wine culture is still maturing. This success follows the introduction in 2012 of “primoVino by Rossini’s”, a menu allowing wine-drinkers to take advantage of cellar prices.

sheepshank on the river

The owners of Seven Spoons have a new place on the river with the recent opening of Sheepshank Public House (47 Phra Athit; 02-629-5165; sheepshankpublichouse.com). The menu is modern with an emphasis on seafood and the restaurant is housed in a refurbished boat repair shop – a fitting choice given the river theme running through it. The design is low-key and minimalist and there are some grand views of the Chao Praya and Rama 8 bridge. Stay tuned for a review.

mandarin oriental

The Mandarin Oriental is well-known for its upscale dining onsite but you don’t need to be a guest at the hotel to enjoy its food. Instead, you can swing by one of the Mandarin Oriental shops popping up in the capital’s shopping malls. The latest one to arrive is in Gaysorn Plaza (999 Ploenchit Road; mandarinoriental. com/bangkok; 02-659-9000). The focus is on pastries and desserts, which is perfect if you’ve got a sweet tooth and want to serve restaurant-quality treats at home.

bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRIN K

meal deals

MEDITERRANEAN DISHES FOR TWO CRÊPES & CO. 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1 | 02-652-0208 | crepesnco.com To celebrate the Valentine’s spirit throughout this month, a fantastic line-up of dishes is designed especially for two to enjoy. Starters include Moroccan salad, salmon tartar and eggplant caviar while main course is your choice of paella Valenciana, Mediterranean red snapper or Greek lamb stew. Lastly, the Crepe Strawberry will impress and melt the sweetest hearts.

ROMANTIC DINNER AT BISTRO M MARRIOTT EXECUTIVE APARTMENTS SUKHUMVIT PARK 90 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 02-302-5555 | marriottsukhumvitpark.com From February 10-20, the executive chef and his team are presenting their culinary passions on the menu for you and your loved ones at Bistro M. A special four-course set dinner is available for B2700 – that includes a bottle of Brokenhills wine – red or white depending on your preference. Make this year’s Valentine’s Day one to remember.

SEAFOOD FANTASIES NOVOTEL BANGKOK ON SIAM SQUARE 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 | 02-209-8888 | novotelbkk.com Lovers of seafood have a rare opportunity to get their fix of at this exquisite buffet. Enjoy an incredible selection of top-quality delicacies such as oysters, prawns, European salmon and New Zealand green mussels for only B1050 per person during the Thursday night seafood buffet dinner at The Square.

CHINESE YEE SANG AND BRUNCH AT VIU THE ST REGIS BANGKOK 159 Ratchadamri Road | 02-207-7777 | stregisbangkok.com Until February 14, Viu introduces traditional dishes that are usually served during Chinese New Year in Singapore and Malaysia, including the flavoursome raw fish salad. The promotion is available at B850 per person. Sunday brunch is also available on February 16. Savour Chinese specialties and buffet for B2650 or B3250 inclusive of alcohol drinks.

SIMPLY SCRUMPTIOUS CHICKEN MENU KUPPADELI Asoke Tower, 219/1A Sukhumvit Soi 21 | 02-664-2350 | kuppadeli.com Special chicken menus are offered at Kuppadeli throughout this month. Grilled chicken with avocados and tomatoes served with homemade pesto in whole wheat toast is available at B240. The Cajun chicken burger is offered at B290 while oregano-seasoned chicken breast grilled with chorizo, Spanish onion, snow peas and potatoes is B280.

BENTO SET AT THE EATERY FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON BANGKOK 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15 | 02-309-3000 | fourpointsbangkoksukhumvit.com Grab the Japanese bento set featuring a variety of dishes plus dessert at only B450 per set, from 11am-5pm. Four special options are pork Tonkatsu, beef Yakitori, Hibachi chicken and salmon Teriyaki. Cake or fresh fruits is added in each set. All are served with miso soup and house salad.

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review

FOOD & DRIN K

Restaurant in box

- Éclairs with a difference Thinking outside the proverbial box is second nature for the creative team behind Restaurant in Box – or RinB – and that’s apparent from the moment you step in the door. Everything demands your attention, from the life-sized plastic horse with a lampshade on its head at the front entrance to the avant-garde set of dining tables strategically placed inside oversized boxes. But there’s more to this playful French cafe than a funky lime green colour scheme with black and white accents. Most notable is their food concept, which elevates the humble éclair to new heights. In addition to traditional sweet éclairs, they feature savoury éclairs, which are basically glorified sandwiches. The good news is that there is a bit of substance behind the hype and both the owner Thierry Bazin and the head chef Jeremy are French expats. Éclairs come in two sizes – finger size and large – and there are several set menus available. The Caesar (B239) is a prime example, as it comes with seared chicken, bacon and lettuce on a large éclair with a side chicken Caesar salad with a parmesan chip and croutons. All the savoury éclairs have a bit of parmesan cheese baked into the dough so they are crispy and light and make a nice foundation for the different fillings. Other similarly priced savoury éclairs worth trying are the Ducky (B249), with smoked duck breast, rocket, diced tomatoes, garlic and salad shoots, and The Norwegian (B249), with smoked salmon, fresh dill, lemon, olive oil and sour cream. In addition to the highly coveted éclairs, RinB also offers an bangkok101.com

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a la carte dinner menu of bistro classics, like seared scallops, salmon and steak from B449-B569. Traditionalists may prefer the sweet éclairs to the savoury (four for B180). Beer and a limited wine selection are available, although RinB is geared toward light meals and snacks due to the small portions. The cuisine is tailor-made for sharing or for giving as gifts and there is a genuine novelty in the creativity and variety of éclairs. If you are a fan of canelés, which are those addictive little French pastries with the caramelised crust and custard centre, then be sure to try the brilliant versions here, which are a steal at just B20 apiece. BY MELISSA RICHTER

restaurant in box

[MAP 3/u10]

Ekkamai Soi 2 | 02-381-9040 Facebook: RinB.Bangkok | Mon-Sat 9am-11pm

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review

ten-sui - Japanese for connoisseurs Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience – both in terms of the food but also the ambience – than at Ten-Sui. It’s a little way down Sukhumvit Soi 16 on the left, situated on an expansive piece of land that affords enough room for a gorgeously lit path to the entrance and a water feature that babbles away invitingly. It makes a nice change from restaurants sandwiched in next to one another. The restaurant itself looks like a traditional Japanese house, its main restaurant on the ground floor and a private dining area upstairs – don’t forget to take off your shoes! If you’re eating, you can sit at the sushi bar and watch the chefs work their magic or take a seat indoors or on the verandah outside. It’s worth noting that this place is high-end, with prices to match. The selection of omakase nigiri, for example, goes for B3000. Of course, it’s absolutely delicious and executed with exquisite technique but reinforces the sense of pedigree. This probably isn’t a place where you show up at the last minute for a low-key meal. It’s a bit special. That’s not to say that you have to break the bank here to have an enjoyable meal – you can go for a bento box for B450, which gives you a selection of Japanese goodies, or the special maki (B500). Among the main dishes, the buri nitsuke (B600) is a lip-smacking piece of yellowtail tuna, prepared here with a slightly sweeter, ginger seasoning. The taste of fresh seafood 70 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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is preserved, along with that light texture, but it’s heightened by an unforgettable honeyed aftertaste that is sure to appeal to a western palate. But the highlight is probably the beef houba yaki (B500, below), thinly sliced Australian beef grilled with miso paste on a magnolia leaf, delivering a tangy smokiness that you’re unlikely to find at any other humble barbecue places. It’s a completely satisfying dish, with enough intriguing undertones to reward every mouthful. The service is ultra-polite and deferential and, although that is the Japanese way, some diners may prefer greater interaction and direction from the staff. That’s not a criticism, merely an observable cultural difference when it comes to service. Overall, Ten-Sui is Japanese food for diners who appreciate excellence. BY TOM STURROCK

ten-sui

[MAP 3/k11]

33 Soi Sukhumvit 16 | 088-540-1001 tensui.co | 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm

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review

maverick - A bold new arrival This newish bar and restaurant makes a great deal of its versatility, extending an invitation for breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. It will be interesting to see how they refine their concept as they get a feel for their clientele but certainly the food and menu design is there for it to stand alone as an upscale restaurant with a bar area. That kind of venue works brilliantly in Bangkok when it hits the right notes – and there have been a few that haven’t managed that – but, once again, Maverick has the food to suggest that people will keep coming back. They’ve also got a serious wine list, perfect for pairings, which certainly doesn’t hurt. Broadly speaking, it’s modern European, drawing heavily from French and Spanish traditions. That’s most in evidence in the gourmet tapas (B490-B690 for three). Try the tortilla de patatas, a Spanish omelette with egg and potato foam or the creamy Catalan foie gras served with yuzu and figs. There are molecular touches throughout – bells and whistles aren’t guaranteed to work but here they complement rather than compete with the body of the dish. Once you move on to the a la carte menu, there’s a division between what’s ‘from the sea’ and ‘from the land’. The Bali barramundi (B450) is cooked to perfection, with a crispy skin but soft white flesh, served with an inky risotto negro and a puff of lemon zest, which adds crucial bite. Even more indulgent is the foie gras ballotine (B620, 72 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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pictured below), served with a brioche spliced with pineapple and a plum chutney. It’s increasingly common to see foie gras served with a side of citrus these days but this combination retains a real richness and the brioche bursts with flavour. If you fancy a rack of lamb (B750) – it’s a carré in French – Maverick serves it as a main with eggplant caviar, chickpea purée ratatouille and mustard leaf jus. Desserts are also served tapas-style (B300 for three) – the white chocolate rectangle, with a cocoa liquor pearl, offers an addictive sugar rush, while the signature Valrhona chocolate cube is shot through with a hint of caramel. Again, there’s already plenty to like about Maverick’s approach to eating and drinking, which is likely to develop further with a new head chef who has a particular fondness for Basque cuisine. BY TOM STURROCK

maverick

[MAP 3/h8]

Sukhumvit 21 Soi 3 | 02-665-2772 maverickbkk.com | Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 5pm-11pm

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review

señor pico - A bold new take on Mexican When chef Fernando Reyes Barba showed up alongside our table holding a heavy molcajete, Mexico’s traditional stone mortar. it was clear times had changed at Señor Pico, which opened 17 years ago in the Rembrandt Hotel. That original Cal-Mex brand was established in 1964 by none other than Victor Bergeron of Trader Vic’s fame. It followed a similar franchise pattern until the chain died out in the United States. Now independent, and for the first time under the direction of a real Mexican chef, the new Señor Pico boasts a menu rebuilt from the ground up, featuring many dishes never seen before at any Mexican eatery in Bangkok. Anyone acquainted with real Mexican food, as opposed to the American versions usually seen around the world, may be stunned by the new menu. To start with, rather than defining Mexican cuisine by such fast-food items as tacos, burritos, quesadillas and nachos, Fernando’s menu provides a broader, deeper glimpse into his home country’s food culture. Nowhere else in town have we seen such dishes as aguachile de camarón (B395), a soupy concoction of prawns marinated in lime juice, olive oil and chile de arbol, common in Mexico but practically unknown beyond the country’s borders. House specialities include costillas de borrego (B695), chipotle-and-garlic-rubbed lamb cutlets, atun del diablo (B595), a seared tuna rubbed with Mexican spices served with avocado and mango salsa, and espetadas (B495), chargrilled bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRIN K

Portugese-style kebabs, a choice of tiger prawns, jalapeño and cilantro sausage, beef or chicken. Several dishes feature duck, which is popular in Mexico but rarely seen in American-style Mexican eateries. Higado de Pato (495B) is duck liver served with Mexican corncake, mango pico de gallo (fresh salsa) and a sauce of raspberry blended with chile ancho (dried Poblano chillies). More familiar Mexican fare like tacos, burritos, quesadillas, fajitas and enchiladas are found on the menu as well. Tacos are offered both in the traditional soft style and in the crispedtortilla style, here labelled tacos gringos (B350). The Bajastyle fish tacos (B350) are a perfect combination of crunchy batter-fried fish, tart cabbage salad and piquant fresh salsa. Fans of huge San Francisco-style burritos, stuffed with beans and rice, will be happy to find these at Señor Pico as well. We particularly enjoyed the enchiladas de camarón (B450), filled with prawns flambéed in tequila. BY JOE CUMMINGS

senor pico

[MAP 3/k11]

1F Rembrandt Hotel 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 02-261-7100 | facebook.com/Senorpicobkk | 5pm-1am

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review

prime

- Much more than a steakhouse Once upon a time, going to a steakhouse for dinner – even an upscale steakhouse – meant being confronted with an endless list of cuts of beef in different shapes and sizes and pedigrees. Although Prime still boasts an enviable selection of red meat, cooked on a woodfired grill that also allows them to infuse the meat with certain flavours, they’ve diversified impressively. There’s a signature Caesar salad (B450) prepared theatrically at the table, although the Waldorf salad (B450) looks more interesting. But it’s the seafood that makes Prime’s ambitions clear. From the caramelised Hokkaido scallops (B890) with celery variations, couscous and apple vinaigrette, to the wood-burned Japanese octopus (B790) with arugula and chickpeas, there’s a refinement of technique and willingness to embrace challenging combinations. It’s a welcome sophistication, befitting the sweeping views over the Chao Praya. That said, the humble crab cakes (B790) are also exquisite, crisp on the outside but soft and creamy inside. Of course, proceedings soon turn to the meatier fare but even here, there’s admirable variety. The tournedos rossini (B1750) are one of Prime’s signature dishes, a beef fillet served with foie gras and a madeira reduction. 74 | F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 4

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There’s also a duck leg confit (B890) with sherry reduction and lemon potato cream, and an Australian lamb loin (B1350) with garlic and goat cheese cream. It’s all very rich but the produce is high-quality, making over-eating easier to justify. Eventually, though, most diners at Prime will find themselves eyeing the grill, where the selection is heavily weighted toward beef, although you can also get a Kurobuta pork chop (B790) or a range of seafood, including Chilean snow fish (B1150) and Alaskan crab legs (B1990). As for the steaks, prices range from B1750 to B4350, all served suitably flame-grilled. There’s the option to add bone marrow, organic eggs or blue cheese, as well as some more exotic sauces, like bordelaise or pommery mustard. The presentation is straightforward, focusing on the cut of meat, suggesting that, although Prime is much more than a steakhouse, they are happy for this part of their repertoire remain unembellished. BY TOM STURROCK

prime

[MAP 8/e16]

Millennium Hilton Hotel, 123 Charoennakorn Rd 02-442-2020 | facebook.com/primesteakhouse.mhb | 6pm-11pm

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CUISINE ART YELLOW: TURMERIC Paying homage to the herbal medicine doctor, the original owner of the house, Ruen Urai's third Thai gourmet journey explores colourful herbs and spices and their healing properties. Turmeric is considered highly auspicious in India and southeast Asia and has been extensively used in various rituals for millennia. Even today it is used in every part of India during wedding and religious ceremonies. The turmeric paste applied to the couples' bodies is said to soften the skin. Turmeric powder for embellishment of body, clothing and utensils had a highly ceremonial character. With orange and yellow pigment, turmeric is Carotenoid-rich and can help reduce risk of cancer and heart disease, while improving immune system function. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel: 66 (0) 2266-8268-72 Fax: 66 (0) 2266-8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com

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in the kitchen

henry jordan talks to Howard Richardson

Henry Jordan leans against the worktop, syringe in hand, looking more the mad scientist than the new chef at Elements. The 26 year-old American squeezes a mix of soy sauce and agar agar on to frozen olive oil, where it forms into little beads. These ‘soy pearls’ are one of a multitude of inventive garnishes for tuna with raw charcoal taste, the dish he’s cooking today. “The fun thing at this restaurant is the creativity,” he says. “I like to use modern ingredients and techniques. But I don’t want it all to be powders, gels and moulds. We’re a casual restaurant, not only for special-occasion dining. Since I arrived we’ve made a smaller menu and lowered the prices.” He’s previously covered the raw tuna in a blend including chives, parsley, ground coriander, salt and pepper, formed it into roulades, vacuum-packed and marinated. Before serving he drops it briefly into a sous vide bath – “just to bring to room temperature” – then grills one side over charcoal. It’s a smart idea, bringing just a hint of charcoal and textural bite to the raw fish. The sauce is a stock of tuna scraps rendered down like fish fumet. Henry adds a little sweetness, with sea urchin roe, so it “balances out the acidic edge to a nice savoury flavour”. Other garnishes include ginger steeped in oil then put into tapioca maltodextrine to form a crumble, and popcorn chilli, made from polenta. Another is feuille de brik tuna cigars, formed by wrapping pastry around a wooden spoon handle and dangling into a deep fat fryer. To serve, Henry slides off the hollow casing, dehydrates and fills with tuna. The crack of the cigar against soft, soft tuna, with wasabi 76 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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and delicate hits of fresh ginger; the crunch and sweetness of the popcorn chilli – there are so many textures and flavours in there. Henry also served me one of his signature dishes, venison carpaccio, foie cubes in cacao, quince and gingerbread. The meat, marinated in juniper berries, Szechuan pepper and parsley, had been wrapped into a roll and frozen, “so not to overcomplicate the flavour of the venison”. Later, the chef poaches quince in cognac and white wine, then caramelises the liquid to layer into traditional foie gras terrine with cocoa powder, which is marinated for 24 hours. Three slivers of the meat form discs in the centre of the plate, garnished with burnt aubergine dust. “You just put an aubergine in the oven and forget about it,” he says. “It doesn’t pick up the flavour of the burn, so you just get a dust texture.” Cubes of foie gras and quince sit alongside, with blobs of quince purée, honey poached cranberries, and gingerbread that’s been in the dehydrater for a couple of days and crumbled. “The concept of the restaurant is there’s nothing we can’t serve,” says Henry, as he sets it down. And with prices at B750 each for these two dishes, even journalists can afford to be part of the experiment.

elements

[MAP 8/m14]

Fl25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Wireless Rd 02-687-9000 | okurabangkok.com | 6pm-10.30pm

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ealtike

Nym

Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel

Chinese Snacks in the Old Town

ou may have heard rumours about Thai eating habits – that we can eat five meals a day or we can eat for the whole day. It’s true! It’s a fact of life that fun and happiness can be found in food. There are as many choices of snacks as there are choices of food for meals on the Bangkok streetsides. One of the varieties that you can find any time of the day and pretty much anywhere in the city is kouy chai. Its name comes from a Chinese dialect but its taste is appreciated and consumed by the whole country. It’s like Thai dim sum – they come in similar forms to their Chinese cousins but bite-sized and with different stuffings. Kouy chai itself is the name of the green vegetable that is stuffed inside a semi-clear flour ball, but there are many varieties of stuffing offering different tastes. The flour must be soft and thin to emphasise the stuffing more than the taste of the flour. This requires a masters’ hands and understanding. One shop of such masters is Kouy Chai Jey Toy, situated in the most cultural area of Bangkok, between the Giant Swing and the Shrine of the Tiger God (Jao Por Sue). This short strip of road is rich with legends of deliciousness. They make pretty much every part of kouy chai from scratch, including mixing their own flour wrappings and all six types of stuffing.

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There’s taro and young bamboo shoots, which you will see being boiled fresh in the pot on the streetside, local turnip, cauliflower with Chinese mushroom and heart of coconut when in season. The dipping sauce is also very important – to eat like a local you must dip the kouy chai in a dark sauce that has the sour taste of vinegar and if you are more adventurous, add a pinch of chilli. The shop is at 122 Mahannop Rd and is open 7am3pm every day. Check out Wat Suthat, behind the Giant Swing, and then swing by this place for a snack.

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listings

Bo.Lan

thai bo.lan [MAP 3/o12] 42 Sukhumvit 26 Soi Pichai Ronnarong Songkram | 02-260-2962 | bolan.co.th Tues-Sun 6pm-10.30pm The Bo.Lan Balance menu (B1880) offers customers a selection of mid-sized dishes, beginning with an impressive amuse bouche that includes a particularly satisfying mouthful of Thai noddles with dumplings, where a slow-burn spice silhouettes a refreshing zest and the delicate presentation does not detract from intense flavours. The main selection of dishes comes out in a flurry – there’s beef with organic mangosteen and a chilli-mint dressing, relish of salty duck egg in coconut cream, with mince prawn and grilled squid, as well as a stir-fried pork with santol. It’s highquality produce and the attention to detail throughout is striking, although the bolder notes of chilli and lime risk overshadowing more subtle undertones. The highlight, among the dishes served on the tasting menu, is the mon-style khi lek curry with daily ocean fish. Khi lek leaves are bitter but when combined with the sweetness of coconut milk and the mild spice of a curry, there’s a brilliant complexity that still leaves room for the natural seafood

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taste. There’s more than enough going on in this dish to sustain it over a much larger portion, making it the stand-out offering from the tasting menu. If you want to stray from the set menu and branch off a la carte, the grilled pork salad with rambutan, herbs and red chilli (B420) is a winner, as is the northern-style hot and sour soup with banaa blossom and chicken on the bone (B240).

PASTE [MAP 3/P6] 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 02-392-4313 | pastebangkok.com | Tues-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6pm-late It’s possible for passersby to miss this new addition to Bangkok’s cosmopolitan dining scene, tucked to one side of soi 49 in the backstreets of Thong Lor. But if the entrance is easily overlooked, the modern Thai food inside is unlikely to be forgotten. For entrees, the dry-spiced chilli squid, topped with vinegar and tomato relish (B240) is a winner. Among the mains, the prime cuts of Australian red meat stand out invitingly from the local produce – the braised beef ribs with ginger rice, tamarind leaves and mushroom soy (B380) are perfect if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The roast duck salad with lychee and Vietnamese mint (B380) packs an immediate punch but it is the hint of banana blossom that delivers a surprising, sensational finish. And then there is the tamarind and caramel pork belly with moonflower, red okra and green chilli pickle (400). It’s an inspired combination, the pork belly coming apart effortlessly while its outer layer retains a rainbow of flavours, its richness lightened perfectly by the moonflower and okra. Overall, Paste is a triumph, fusing tradition

Paste and innovation with a confidence and craft that never veers into showiness. Good food is often described as “tasty” or “delicious” but these descriptions are fleeting – the best meals go a step further and stay with us long after the plates are cleared. And, on that score, Paste delivers with exceptional panache, serving food that is not just instantly gratifying but truly memorable.

sala rattanakosin bangkok [MAP 7/c12]

39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island 02-231-2588 | salarattanakosin.com 7am-10pm With vistas not only across the river to Wat Arun but also towards the spires of Wat Pho and the Grand Palace, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. Later, head down to the two-storey restaurant, and, if possible, grab a window table upstairs or beside the river on the wooden deck outside. Executive Chef Tony Wrigley describes his menu as comfort food and that pretty much fits the bill. Typical Thai dishes include tempura fried soft shell crab (B290), with a good strong zip of sour and spice in green mango salad that cuts through the crispy batter, and the northern Thai favourite khao soy (B280). The latter, served as a

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listings

Sala Rattanakosin main course, has a thicker, more curry-like consistency than usual and the complexity loses out slightly to the more dominant palm sugar in a heavily reduced sauce. The menu has fewer Euro items but there were good flavours to the twice-cooked crispy pork belly (B590). It’s roasted for three hours and then finished in the oven for 20 minutes with a tamarind glaze. On the side are roast pumpkin puree, apple and young ginger marmalade, and stir-fried morning glory, which works very well cooked in typical local style, flash-fried with oyster sauce, garlic and chilli. A major plus is the list of 25 wines by the glass, starting at B190 and a very drinkable standard with the clean, acidic Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc from South Africa.

american Little Beast [MAP 3/Q6] 44/9-10 Thong Lor Soi 13 | 02-185-2670 facebook.com/littlebeastbar | Tue-Sat 5.30pm-1am, Sun 5.30-midnight The interior designers behind this cosy, clubby little gastro-bar are PIA Interior, the same talent who conjured up the enjoyable, Old Siam-style over-the-topness of the recently opened boutique hotel, Hotel Muse.

Here, though, the 1920s Prohibition-era feel is not as flamboyant or overwrought, with a concrete rawness marrying with the dimmed lighting, wood accents and button-tufted, black leather chairs. Whether you head upstairs, past the faux-vintage sketches of one of the partners’ pet bulldog – the titular ‘Little Beast’ – to the private mezzanine, or stay downstairs, this is an intimate spot suited to grazing and glugging, or a bit of both. As is the trend these days, it’s a collaborative effort between well-travelled friends with money in the bank. Rustled up by the female chef Nana Bunyasaranand, the food is New American, which essentially means that they serve exotic twists on old world standbys. Thus it is that the steak cut fries come with a truffle aioli, and the tuna tartare a ginger mayonnaise. Little Beast also dishes up heartier specials. We haven’t tried these yet, but confess to being seriously tantalised by the photos, which are posted regularly on Little Beast’s lively Facebook page. Think more adventurous flights of fancy such as chocolate and fig foie gras terrine, or savoury corn panna cotta with chanterelle salad and brown butter vinaigrette. Backup comes from a handful of desserts (our pick: the snickerdoddle and salted caramel ice-cream sandwich) as well as malt whiskies, beers and some creative, old-world themed cocktails.

moulin [MAP 3/r8] No.88 Thong Lor Soi 5 | 02-712-9348 moulinsquare.com | 5.30pm-11pm, Fri-Sun also 5.30-11pm It’s hard to know quite what to expect from this newish arrival to the backstreets of

FOOD & DRIN K

Moulin Thong Lor, with a menu that shoots off in a few different directions and a setting that has spliced together a whirlwind of cabaret trimmings. This lack of a clearly identifiable theme may throw some diners but the food – broadly defined as trendy New York fare, channelling the foodie diversity of that city – does not disappoint in the slightest. If you start with the crispy crab cakes with mango salad (B420) the Big Apple vibe rings clear enough but the scallop carpaccio (main image, B340), served with fresh fruit and chocolate sauce, sets the mind spinning all over. Scallops in chocolate sauce? Crazier still is that it really works. Among the mains, the pan-fried blackened seabass served with dirty rice (B480) takes diners from the east coast on a trip to the Cajun south, helped on the way by the spicy shrimp gumbo (B380). It’s at this point that you really just have to stop worrying about categorising this experience and instead sit back and enjoy, not least because the gumbo is spectacular. It’s got all those amazing elements of a big Louisiana cook-up, the fire in the first mouthful all the way through to the peppery, smokey aftertaste. In a menu that’s heavy on experimentation, Moulin’s gumbo is brilliantly authentic and is worth the visit on its own.

49 Sukhumvit soi 49 - Terrace 49 Building 2nd floor - reservation +6622041731

OTTEGA

private wine room - open lunch and dinner bangkok101.com

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www.labottega.name

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listings

Shang Palace

chinese shang palace [MAP 8/f17] 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 02-236-7777 | shangri-la.com 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is flawlessly elegant and, even more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. Throughout, the food is low on oil, delivering delicate flavours while still being immensely satisfying. The dim sum is the obvious place to start – the scallop siew mai (B120, left bottom) and the deep-fried shrimp and sesame spring rolls (B90) offer both sweet and salty taste, the scallops deliciously tender while the spring rolls add some crunch. The crispy barbecue pork buns (B80) are also a winner, the pastry bursting coming apart to expose the grilled, saucy goodness. But the signature dish is undoubtedly the Beijing roast duck (B1900) that is enough to feed four people and comes in two separate dishes. First, the skin comes off and is served with thin pancakes, green onion and plum sauce. The duck meat is then taken away and minced or stir-fried before returning to the table, seasoned with pine nuts and egg yolk, to be parcelled up inside fresh lettuce leaves.

The baked river prawn with butter and black pepper suace (B220, left top) is another highlight – it’s a seriously sized prawn that is a brilliant pink when you manage to crack open the shell. The seafood keeps on coming – this time with a double hit of fresh crab. First, there’s the bird’s nest soup with crab roe (B1300) before the sticky rice with crab (B1800) that comes out in a family-sized bamboo basket.

french chez pape [MAP 3/f9] 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 02-255-2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed but that’s not to say Chez Pape feels routine. Rather, there are enough surprises, both in terms of the combinations and the presentation to elevate Chez Pape’s food to something more impressive. Starting with the appetisers, there is a ceviche of barracuda in chilli and citrus (B160) or the tartare of avocado, crab and green apple (above right, B200), both hitting the right notes: light, fresh, seafood flavours offset with the right amount of seasonings. But perhaps it’s in the more provincial dishes that Chez Pape declares its hand, offering a port-marinated foie gras terrine, served with toast and mango marmalade (B285). The early courses are certainly impressive enough to build expectation for the mains without being so concept-heavy that they create confusion. The pan-seared beef

L’Appart

flank, an exquisite cut of meat, comes with goat-cheese ravioli and garnished with virgin sauce (B450) – it’s a deeply satisfying combination. Twisting the formula a little further is the duck breast served with apples, spinach and Japanese citrus dressing (B510). It’s a fine example of Chez’s Pape’s commitment to doing the inimitably French things well while borrowing and augmenting with inspired touches from elsewhere. It may sound like a challenge but leave room for dessert as the poached strawberries in syrup and ice cream (B230), although they sound straightforward, are a highlight.

l’appart [MAP 3/g9] 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi | 085-924-1565 | sofitel.com 7pm-midnight L’Appart, on the top floor of the Sofitel on Sukhumvit embraces the aesthetic of a Parisian apartment with such conviction that you could ride a bicycle, balancing a baguette on the handlebars, between some tables. The result is that L’Appart has one of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. Chef Jeremy Tourret may be every inch the French master cook but that hasn’t prevented him taking some intriguing

THAILAND TATLER

BEST

RESTAUR ANTS

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listings Maya

chances, adapting a traditional cuisine to create an adventurous menu. The absolute staples are still represented – frog legs with leek and truffle (B480) and a spectacular bouillabaisse (onion soup) with rock fish, puff Japanese pearl and rouille sauce (B550; right).Tourret has dialled down the salt for the Asian palate, with the added benefit of making room for the more complex flavours he has included. He takes it to the next step in the mains. His pan-fried snow fish comes with cauliflower mousseline and Madras curry (B1300) – that’s right, curry. In a French restaurant. It seems risky and may outrage traditionalists but it is testament to Tourret’s technique and imagination that it works – the cauliflower balances the curry so the delicate taste of the snow fish – among the best – is never overwhelmed. While people might be unexcited by the prospect of roast chicken, it’s a different dish when it comes stuffed with goat cheese, comfit zucchini and organic tomatoes (B900), each mouthful an opportunity to unpick and savour the winning combination.

indian MAYA [MAP 3/l10] 29F Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-683-4888 mayathailand.com | 5pm-1am The sparkly, expansive foyer fans out into an unusual L-shaped space, dining room in one direction, merging into a lounge bar in the other. In terms of the food, it’s modern or progressive Indian cuisine that contains more than a few surprises. First, though, the cocktails (all B295) – although the selection is a little bit on the sweet side, it’s clear that some real effort has gone into devising some interesting combinations with Indian twists. The vodka khatta pudina starts simply with a mix of vodka and guava juice before adding a dash of cumin powder, while the tamarind margarita adds an exquisite sweet-and-sour edge to the familiar base. This willingness to experiment is also borne bangkok101.com

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out in the food – try the murgh chandi kebab (B380), with chicken marinated in yoghurt, cardamom and mace before being finished with edible silver leaf. Or the raan e Maya (B900 for half a leg, B1600 for the whole), which takes a baby leg of lamb coated in rum and house marinade, slow-cooked in a tandoor oven. Duck doesn’t normally get a run on an Indian menu but at Maya, the duck tikka kuti mirch (B440) marinates it in chilli flakes, garlic and sun-dried spices to delicious effect. Equally, the Indian staples are well-represented and executed with well-chosen updates. For example, the nawabi chicken tikka salad (B220) takes the well-worn chicken tikka but infuses it with Glenmorangie whiskey and serves it with a honey reduction.

rang mahal [MAP 3/k11] 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 02-261-7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The name means ‘palace of colours’ and there is definitely a courtly air about it all, down to the traditional Indian band whose lilting music fills the air. Equally, while Indian cuisine routinely delivers powerful flavours, the refined, almost delicate food served at Rang Mahal is a rarity. Among the appetisers, the papri chaat (B175) and Punjabi samosa (B190) are relatively straightforward but the well-judged lightness and the fact the doughiness is not overdone mean these bite-sized dishes whet the appetite. Proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs come out. The tandoori prawn (B295 per piece, main) is smoked to perfection in Indian spices, while the murgh malai (B425) combines chicken and cream cheese for an extra kick. The house specialty, though, is the raan-e-khyber (B950 for half, B1595 for whole) – a leg of lamb marinated in rum, herbs and spices before being barbecued. It’s an impressive dish, rustic in appearance but perfectly executed, the chunks of lamb peeling effortlessly from the bone. The curries are equally successful in delivering a heightened version of familiar dishes. The Goan fish curry (B495) combines a lightly sautéed fish seasoned with a fragrant mix of onions, garlic and spices, cooked in a sauce of tomatoes and coconut gravy, the flavours deftly balanced against each other. In the kashmiri rogan josh (B525, top left), the mutton is irresistibly tender, more casserole than curry, a spectacular rendition of one of the most familiar staples. F EBRUA RY 2014 | 81

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listings

Cellar 11

INTERNATIONAL cellar 11 wine bar & bistro [MAP 3/f7]

71/1 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255-5833 cellar11.com | 6pm-midnight The menu is essentially European, drawing mostly from French and Italian, neither entirely traditional nor rushing headlong into new-fangled techniques for the sake of it. For example, the scallop cappuccino (B580) comes with morel, champignon and porcini mushrooms. There’s a trend to increasingly match scallops with lighter flavours, sometimes sweeter or citrus-based, but the seasoning here is a reassuring return to a warmer, earthier mix. Conversely, the Toulouse foie gras (B620) is dressed with a choice of peach, raspberry or porto sauce. But it’s even more traditional fare that really impresses – the onion soup (B260) is one of the most familiar staples of any French kitchen but it is elevated here by the addition of chicken stock to add texture and a layer of gruyere cheese to add bite. Belying its simply presentation, the taste is exquisite. Similarly, the angel hair sea urchin pasta (B950) is straightforward enough but the taste of fresh sea urchin is one of the most memorable aspects of the meal. It’s this low-key attenion to detail that

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Napa on 26

emerges as the hallmark of Cellar 11’s food and it’s evident again in the duck confit (B690) that comes with crushed truffle in a pool of glorious honey thyme sauce. And the rack of Australian lamb (B990) is equally impressive, crusted with herbs and served with dauphinoise and a garlic rosemary sauce that lingers on the tongue.

CREPES & Co. [Map 8/L14] 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Road, (also 88 Thong Lor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) | 02652-0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious. The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options – try the eggplant caviar – but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal after-dinner following. You can keep it simple by going for the Crepe Josephine (B170), which is a straightforward combination of sugar and lemon zest. But if you’ve got a major sweet tooth, you’ll likely move on to the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging with vanilla ice cream and lathered in rich, tangy raspberry sauce. These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you have a real craving. Going down the list reveals some eye-popping desserts – try the Crepe Mango Coconut (B195), which somehow works despite the unusual pairing of fresh mango and coconut slices, or the Coupe de Fraises (B170), with strawberry, vanilla and

chantilly. The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B290), which comes out rinsed in apple liqueur and filled with sautee apple and rum raisin ice cream. And then they set that baby on fire.

napa on 26 [MAP 3/O12] 2F Nihonmachi, 115 Sukhumvit Soi 26 02-258-2622 | napaon26.com | Tues-Sat 6pm-10pm, Sun 11.30am-10pm The concept is Californian cuisine and, if there’s a criticism of Napa 26, it’s that it doesn’t quite convey what that means. Certainly, there are some top-notch wine selections from that part of the world but the food could generally be categorised as modern European or international. The appetisers get the ball rolling in style, the Hamachi ceviche (B670), with pomelo, alfalfa sprouts and and wasabi sherbet striking that perfect balance between lightness and flavour. Equally, the Hokkaido scallops (B990) are a richer option, coming with foie gras, red prunes and a vanilla-anis emulsion. Napa 26 sets the bar high for itself with its prices – it also makes ordering a highstakes affair. If you choose well, the food is absolutely worth the price tag but a misstep may leave you disappointed. For example, among the soups, the black and white truffle

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listings much more to Quince than just the food. It has a buzzy, pub-like atmosphere, a generous-sized bar, unvarnished floorboards and chunky wooden tables that feel as conducive to quaffing beers as the arty cocktails developed by ‘mixsultant’ Joseph Boroski.

DiVino duck cream with thai spices and goose liver (B600) is a show-stopper, while the sweet corn with parma ham and chorizo (B350) is slightly bland by comparison. The whole experience is elevated by the main courses, though, the grain-fed beef tenderloin (B1600; above) comes bathed in red wine sauce with onion puree and spinach. It’s a gorgeous dish, the sauce working wonders alongside the prime cut. The rack of lamb (B1600), with gremolata, eggplant caviar and butternut, is also a triumph, a reminder that Napa 26’s peaks are truly impressive, even if those heights are hard to maintain throughout.

Quince [MAP 3/P10] Sukhumvit Soi 45 | 02-662-4478 | quincebangkok.com | 11.30am-late New Quince chef Wilfrid Hocquet has worked with Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud and the Pourcel brothers, while his last gig – the countrified, Michelin-starred La Bastide de Moustiers – chimes with the concept at his new Bangkok home. He serves straightahead food: farmhouse presentation, not too many flavours, focusing on good product and letting it fly. To the delight of traditionalists, this is unmistakably dinner on a plate. They have a new supplier near Pattaya for these meats and now work with Bill Marinelli, of the Oyster Bar to bring line-caught fish from Indonesia. Not local, but sustainable. It’s also, by its nature, unpredictable, so you may get coral trout, sea bream, white sea bass, all depending on the catch. It arrives on Thursdays, so good days to visit are Friday to Sunday. The fish goes on the specials menu, alongside the new a la carte that Wilfrid launches fully this month. Look out for a bunch of fresh salads such as blueberry beetroot with feta cheese and rocket and substantial mains like roast chicken tagine-style with lemon and chickpeas. Beautiful Kurobuta pork, cooked sous vide and served with its own jus (B1500 for a sharing portion), is sourced in Prachinburi and also used in deliciously moist, slightly peppery pork terrine (B280). But there’s so bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRIN K

CHEZ PAPÉ

French Bistro

ITALIAN divino [MAP 3/r6] Penny’s Balcony, Thong Lor Soi 16 02-714-8723 | divinobkk.com 5.30pm-midnight, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm It’s a curious little set-up, the restaurant split between three rooms that share one corner of Penny’s Corner up in Thong Lor. One section is for private dining, another is filled with stools and high tables, while the newish wine room is a sit-down affair, the walls lined with bottles of gorgeous Italian vino. To get the balling rolling, DiVino offers a selection of cheese (B790 for six different pieces) or imported cold cuts (B700 for the most generous serving). As appetisers, they do precisely what they’re meant to, getting the stomach gurgling away in anticipation for what’s to follow. So there’s enough variety there to keep customers happy if they just fancy a bottle of wine over a few shared platters but the main courses raise the stakes in a way that fancier, more concept-heavy places don’t always manage. It’s hard to recall pasta being this exciting. The linguine with Alaskan crab meat (B420) is a lighter affair – let’s not go too far and call it delicate -– while the linguine all’astice (B580) is their signature dish containing half a Boston lobster, dripping in one of those bolshy Italian sauces that looks simple but isn’t. Among the prime cuts of meat, the Australian beef tenderloin with a porcini mushroom sauce (B850) is impressive enough but DiVino’s lamb (B640 for a loin, B850 for a whole rack) is the winner, due mostly to a remarkable herb crust that sets off the milder meat spectacularly.

When it comes to French cuisine anyone who knows their onions goes to Chez Papé Classic French Food Quality wine from around the world

IL Bolognese [MAP 5/H8] 139/3 Sathorn Tai Soi 7 | 02-286-8805 | ilbolognesebangkok.com | 11.30am-2:30pm, 5.30pm-11pm If the name itself doesn’t tip you off, then the living room décor will: Il Bolognese says tradition from the floor-to-ceiling of its spacious low room in the glass conservatory extension of a soi villa. Just inside the entrance are a brick crescent moon counter and wood fired pizza oven, where they flip

Sukhumvit Soi 11

OPEN daily 5pm - 11pm

Weekend lunch 11.30am - 2.30pm Tel:

02 255 2492

info@chezpape.com

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listings

La Bottega and paddle thin and thick crust pizzas. There are cold cuts and cheese displays; wooden wine racks; and shelves with hanging hams and strings of garlic bulbs. Simple square wooden tables stand on terracotta tiles with Mediterranean floral inlays similar to fragments at Pompeii and Rome’s Ostia Antica. And the food completes the picture, with both the à la carte and a special menu that changes every 15 days including surprising regional dishes that leave you with an impression of actually having travelled to Italy for a couple of hours. Good quality cold cuts (B420 and B650) come with home-pickled vegetables and gnocco fritto (small diamond shapes of light, deep fried bread, all puffed and airy in the middle) that are a clean and crispy foil for the tasty meats. Tortellini Emiliani (B350) is billed as “not mama’s or grandmama’s, but the original recipe”. The pasta rings have fillings of ground pork and beef, all topped with a rich creamy sauce finished with nutmeg and parmesan. And the lasagna spinach with Bolognese sauce (B300) has spinach mixed into the pasta dough, which allows an unusually soft texture. On the all-Italian wine list, with bottles from B900-B6900, there’s one sparkling and three each of red and white by the glass (from B190, also available in half and full litre carafes B450 and B800).

La Bottega di Luca [MAP 3/P8] The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 02-204-1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm Nestled in a smallish mall on soi 49, La Bottega di Luca is an immediately welcoming space, effortlessly combining indoor-outdoor seating and cultivating a relaxed vibe that makes it a neighbourhood favourite with real panache. Luca, who runs the show, updates the parts of the menu regularly and orders from Italy fortnightly. The antipasti start at B290 and the grilled scamorza (B390) – that’s smoked mozzarella – wrapped in speck ham with mushrooms and red wine sauce is a delight. It’s a simple idea but the evident care taken in preparation elevates this to a gorgeous starter, reminding 84 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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diners just how much they’ve come to miss cheese in Bangkok. And that sauce – you’ll be tempted to lick the plate clean. There’s a sizeable menu and it can be tricky to know which direction to take. The most eye-catching salad is the seafood combination (B220) with steamed prawns, baby squid, mussels and clams seasoned with garlic. But who are we kidding? We’re here for the rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion. That means it’s hard to go past the homemade pasta that gets freshly made every day – the dishes are reasonably priced at B240-490, although you’ll be shelling out B1790 if you go for the lobster. The paccheri with saute Italian sausage and fennel seeds certainly doesn’t disappoint. There’s a rich, full flavour, meaty enough to eat with a glass of red wine but with a complexity of seasoning and ticklish spice at the end of each mouthful.

japanese Above eleven [MAP 3/C4] 33F Frasers Suite Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-207-9300 | aboveeleven.com | 6pm-2am Chef Omar Frank Maruy brings Bangkok’s first taste of Nikkei cuisine, a PeruvianJapanese fusion developed over 140 years of Japanese immigration. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on. Start with a pre-dinner Peruvian cocktail – maybe a pisco sour, made with Peruvian grappa, lime, egg white and angostura (B350) – before checking out the menu, which also has some Japanese dishes. Starters include Cebiche Above Eleven (B550), in which the crunch of deep fried calamari contrasts well with raw seabass marinated in ‘Tiger’s Milk’, a blend including shallots, lemon and chilli with flavours similar to Thai, although much more restrained. Five skewers of cubed charcoal grilled beef heart (B240) are served with three Peruvian dips of increasing fieriness, and Kani Causa (B300) is three mounds of yellow coloured mashed potato topped with crab meat, avocado, quail egg and mayo. Plates are served centrally to share and portions are generous, particularly on main courses such as Seco de Cordero (B950), a slow-cooked lamb shank seasoned with beer, cilantro, cumin and aji Amarillo. Aji is chilli, which, for cooking, Peruvians use de-

Above Eleven

seeded and pre-boiled, which retains flavour and aroma but removes the spiciness. There’s a great view, an electro soundtrack and this is Bangkok’s only Peruvian, a cuisine with a bit of worldwide buzz. It will suit the adventurous.

Toro Sushi [MAP 3/R8] No.88 in soi connecting Thong Lor 5 to 9, Sukhumvit 55 | 02-712-8447 | facebook.com/ torofreshsushi | Mon-Fri 4pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm Rather old-fashioned looking, with slats of light wood and bare bulb lighting like the one used in Japanese markets, there’s nothing at all fancy about it – and in a city where style to often strong-arm substance that’s part of its charm. The same old-school approach extends to the food.There’s lots of sushi on the menu, but little in the way of the fancy sushi creations you find at your heaving chain equivalents. Starters include chawanmushi (B80), steamed egg custard served warm. Another light opener is the Engkawa sushi (B120 per piece). Though it looks a little oily, the lightly grilled flatfish, rice and accompanying sour ponzu sauce add up to very moreish mouthfuls. A decent side perfect for chomping on in between sips of your hot or cold sake (which starts from B300 per 300ml) is the shiraou karaage (B190), which are little fish deep fried and lightly salted. As well as sides and sushi, fresh sashimi boats are also served, the most expensive being the Sashimi Moriawase 7 (B1900) featuring seven different kinds: otoro, akami, hamachi, salmon, mandai, Saba and Japanese scallops.The meat is fresh, the wasabi sauce reeks of quality, and the rice has a mild smooth taste. But what really stands out over and above all of them is the melt-in-your-mouth Otoro sashimi. Reservations are recommended if you want to sit at a table, otherwise take a seat at the sushi bar. Check Toro Sushi’s Facebook for promotions and updates – this may be a traditional restaurant, but it’s not stuck in the dark ages. bangkok101.com

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LEVELS

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Nightlife get into the groove

Bangkok drinkers and diners love a new hotspot that gives them plenty of options and this month Groove (30-33F CentralWorld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd; 02-264-5555; centralworld.co.th/groove) seriously kicks into gear. There are a stack of different outlets so it will be fascinating to see which emerges as the most popular once everyone has had a chance to check it out. To date, there’s a new Hyde & Seek outlet, a new House of Beers and a new Wine I Love You. The 1881 bar and restaurant also promises to be a hit, launched by the folks behind Water Library.

new mixologist at trader vic’s

There’s a new mixologist at Trader Vic’s at Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa (257/1-3 Charoennakorn Road; 02-476-0022; bangkokriverdining. com), Roberto Cuda coming on board to look after the drinks at this venue, well-known for its Pacific Rim cuisine. Their menu is already heavy on tropical concoctions and Mai Tais but Cuda comes with a reputation for originality and executing his own recipes. His signature Trader Blazer – Jamaican rum, Cognac, matcha Japanese tea with condensed milk and cinnamon stick – sounds like an exciting new riff on the theme.

an ambitious lust

A new club in Pat Pong could be one of the most popular new spots of 2014. Although the area is not particularly upscale, Lust (Pat Pong Silom; 0909-190459; Facebook: Lust-Bangkok) is ambitiously trying to set itself apart from its surroundings. It’s moved into the premises formerly occupied by Radio City and boasts four floors of clubbing experience. There are some undeniably tacky aspects in this part of Bangkok but Lust may well herald a shift toward a less scruffy brand of nightlife.

underground glow

One of Bangkok’s most established underground house clubs, Glow (96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23; 0866-143-355; facebook.com/GlowBkk), hosts Agent! on February 8. It’s his Thailand debut and it promises to be an energetic, harddriving set from the German DJ, whose prodigious mixing and production skills ensured his popularity ballooned out beyond the borders of his homeland. He now runs his own label and still manages a club in Hamburg. He’ll be supported at Glow by local DJ Dan Buri – tickets are B350 and that includes one drink.

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OCEAN - Enjoying a dip -

ince opening toward the end of last year, Ocean Bangkok has quickly carved out a niche for itself as an all-day dining hotspot that reinvents itself after the sun goes down. It’s a crowded market but the proprietors of Ocean have taken several steps to ensure they stand out and, indeed, there’s nothing else quite like this place in the capital. After taking over the old Livingstone’s on Sukhumvit Soi 33 – admittedly not renowned for its upscale hang-outs – Ocean incorporates a swimming pool into its lay-out, allowing drinkers to dip their toes in while knocking back cocktails. It is, as the promotional bumph has it, an ‘urban resort’. This all-in-one concept has appeared elsewhere in Bangkok but Ocean seems particularly committed to it, combining all aspects of hotel, restaurant, bar and lounge. There’s a striking indoor-outdoor lay-out, immaculate white walls and seating offset by some welcome greenery. The main bar area at the front of the venue is more in line with what revellers expect from a cocktail venue, while there’s also a downstairs nightclub and the dining stretch along the pool. The challenge for Ocean will be to appeal to different crowds without spreadly itself too thinly and they’ve invested heavily in their menu to make sure visitors have plenty of good reasons to return. Chef Jacob Astray, one of the partners, made his name at Spain’s elBulli, which was voted the world’s best restaurant five times last

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decade. The drinks, on the other hand, are the work of the ubiquitous Joseph Boroski, who seems to have designed at least half of the cities best cocktail menus. Ocean’s pintxos and tapas are certainly eye-catching – if you’re starting bite-sized, try the deconstructed Spanish omelette and spicy chorizo (B110) or the pork teriyaki in a sesame cone (B70). Then move on to the tapas, like the prawn ceviche with mango, avocado and ginger oil (B280). For more substantial fare, head down for breakfast (B380) and choose whatever appeals – maybe the prawn and mushroom omelette or the chorizo and chips with fried duck egg. If you’re after an evening meal, it’s hard to go past the slow-cooked salmon (B440), served with couscous and yoghurt sauce. The cocktails are also a triumph – highlights include the Poolside Passion (B250), which combines gin, pineapple and passionfruit, with palm sugar and lime. BY TOM STURROCK

ocean bangkok

[MAP 3/l9]

7 Soi Sukhumvit 33 | 02-261-2800 oceanbangkok.com | 10am-1am

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review

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listings

Bash

Nightclubs BASH [ma p 3/F8] 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (entrance next to the Australian Pub | bashbangkok.com Midnight-very late Open till “very late”, Bash is brash. The guys who set this place up spliced strands of global clubbing DNA with the usually sleazy after-hours club concept. There are burlesque dancers ranging from midgets and robots on stilts to cross-dressing whacker Pan Pan (the shows bring to mind risqué superclub Manumission at times); the fixtures and furniture are of the very glam sort (gleaming Louis IX furniture, etc); and the DJs are often big names. Head up the stairs lined with misshapen mirrors and you’ll find three floors of fun, two of them taken up by the main room and the mezzanine which overlooks it.

Levels [MAP 3/f8] 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0823-083-246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am Of all the venues of Sukhumvit Soi 11, Levels has benefited the most from the closure earlier this year of Bed Supperclub.

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Great swathes of that clientele now overflow to the other side of the soi, making Levels one of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok, on any night of the week. At many popular clubs in Bangkok, the crowd quickly finds a familiar groove, attracting one particular kind of revellers that old hands can identify fairly quickly – whether that’s the tourists passing through on the way to the beach or the slightly more clued-up locals returning to a favourite haunt. At Levels, though, it’s much harder to categorise – there’s a welcome mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of Levels’ buzzy atmosphere.

MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4] President Tower Arcade 973, Ploenchit Rd mixxdiscotheque.com | B350 | 10pm-late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, as long as things go smoothly, the chance to party until nearly sunrise.

ROUTE 66 [Map 8/Q12] 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | route66club.com B200 foreigners incl. drink / free for Thais Rammed with hordes of dressed-to-kill

Q Bar young Thais on most nights of the week, ‘Route’, as it is affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, alllasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands bang out hits in ‘The Novel’. Route is not a good place to lose your friends but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area. One sore point: unlike the locals, foreigners are charged a B200 entry fee (but get a free drink).

Q BAR [Map 3/C4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with big name international DJs appearing regularly. There’s a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now,

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listings St Regis Bar

Wednesday to Saturday respectively. In between sets, tuck into their ‘Goong goong goong’ menu, combining fresh prawns with a variety of international flavours.

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Heaven

spasso [MAP 8/l13]

there’s more room to dance and more lounge space, especially at QUP, the more downtempo upstairs area. Also, out the back of the venue, through a revolving door from the dance floor, you can find your way into Le Derriere, Q Bar’s very own Parisianstyle absinthe bar that is perfect for chilling out and chasing the green fairy.

hotel bars & clubs BARSU [map 3/F6] 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250, Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, there are five live bands for each night of the week. Comprised of students from Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Jazz, Tenon Round’ are a gifted young quartet who perform every Tuesday from 8.30 to 10.30pm. The other bands, JazzPlayground, P.O.8, Rhythm Nation and Hot Gossip, play from

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Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajadamri Road | 02-254-1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm2.30am There’s no shortage of hotel bars in Bangkok but Spasso, on the ground floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan has been around for 21 years and remains a favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it presents as a sedate Italian restaurant but after hours, after it transforms into a club and cocktail bar, it really hits its stride, revelling in its energetic, uninhibited atmosphere. The layout is unconventional – an open-plan foyer and dining area narrows into a dancefloor, flanked by two horseshoe-shaped bars. It has the effect of funnelling all the action between the bars and on to the dancefloor. Spasso is not so much for Bangkok scenesters – its selling point is that it’s slightly wild and the live band does its best to whip partygoers into even higher spirits.

ST REGIS BAR [map 4/G 7] St Regis Bangkok Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd 02-207-7777 | stregis.com | Mon-Fri 10am-1am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am At 6:30pm each day a butler struts out on to the terrace of the St Regis Bar, a saber in one hand, a bottle of Moet & Chandon in the other. He then flicks at the collar until ‘pop!’, the cork flies off and bubbly spurts gently out on to the terrace. Come for this, stay for the view. Stretching along a plate

glass window, the rectangle venue – with its suave masculine vibe, long bar, clubby sofas and high-ceilings – eyeballs the city’s Royal Bangkok Sports Club. It’s a lovely spot at sunset, even better on every second Sunday afternoon, when you can spy on the horseracing with a fine malt whiskey in hand.

Bars with views heaven [MAP 8/k13] 20F Zen @ Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-100-9000 | heaven-on-zen.com Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am It’s heavily dependent on the weather as the design offers precious little protection but on a warm Bangkok night, when the golden backdrop of its feature bar lights up like a metal sun, it feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital. Crucially, they’ve got the cocktails (all B280-B320) right, using a well-chosen blend of spirits without going overboard and trying to cram every drink with one too many flavours. The Surreal Seduction – slightly cheesey name but we’ll forgive it because it tastes good –

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listings the soft lounge lights come on to create an atmosphere of casual intimacy. As the first stars appear, the city’s coolest jazz sounds will set the mood.

Maggie Choo’s

woo bar [map 5/g7]

Cheap Charlie’s combines vodka, apple liqueur, elderflower syrup and pear puree. It’s super fruity but apple liqueur is one of the more versatile, underused ingredients in cocktails and it sets off the others in a way that’s refreshing but still carries a kick.

The Speakeasy [MAP 4/J6] Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd 02-630-4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. A long international snack menu stands out for decent portions at reasonable prices; spirits (from B270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B300-B600 a glass, while cocktails (from B 290) include home-made vodka infusions.

three Sixty [map 5/b2] Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd 02-442-2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am High above the glittering lights of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River, ThreeSixty is the only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire, dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, all year round. A private glass lift takes guests all the way up to the 32nd floor which boasts panoramic vistas from its 130m tall, circular lounge. Guests can feast on a range of miniature culinary experiences, from foie gras to caviar or risotto, or sip on fine wines and cocktails as the sun sets in a blaze of colour behind Wat Arun. Just as gently, 92 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 02-344-4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok Sun-Wed 9am-1am, Thurs-Sat 9am-2am Located on the ground floor of the W Hotel, Woo Bar has all of the flair and emphasis on design that has come to characterise the hotel franchise. It’s chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, spacious enough to find a seat without being echoey and without atmosphere. And, most importantly, the cocktails pass with flying colours, some inventive signature drinks rubbing shoulders with well-executed standard tipples. The Bliss (B325), which comes from the bartenders at W Hotel in New York, combines Ciroc vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, mint and fresh ginger. You might struggle to stop at just one.

BARS THE ALCHEMIST [map 3/e8] 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 083-549-2055 Facebook: thealchemistbkk | Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight Fitting somewhere between Soi 11’s swank cocktail bars and the rickety dive bar aesthetic of the legendary Cheap Charlie’s, which it neighbours, The Alchemist is a stylishly stripped down drinking hole. Nothing more, nothing less. We approve, and so too, it seems, do the punters. Not only does it attract the spill-over from Cheap Charlie’s, it also draws a loyal crowd of its own, who savour the intimate atmosphere, occasional live music, proper his and her toilets (Cheap Charlie’s are infamous for their dinginess) and, above all, drinks prices. Currently rocking the drinks list are assorted martinis, classic cocktails and some of the best mojitos.

CHEAP CHARLIE’S [map 3/D6] Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be

surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little sub-soi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed nightspots Q Bar and the other newer spots that have cropped up recently.

HYDE & SEEK [Map 4/L5] 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee 02-168-5152 | 11am-1am | hydeandseek.com This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pickmeup cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgian-influenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales.

maggie choo’s [MAP 5/c5] Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd 02-635-6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos Tues-Sun 6pm-2am From the Victorian steam-punk of Iron Fairies to the eco-futurism of Clouds, Aussie entrepreneur Ashley Sutton has already proved himself as the Terry Gilliam of Bangkok’s bar world, conjuring up drinking hole after drinking hole shot through with a magical realist quality. Maggie Choo’s, with its decadent atmosphere redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens, is no different. Clomp down the staircase and you find yourself in a noodle bar. One that could pass for an old Shaw Brothers movie set. The main decoration – and they are just decoration – are the leggy cabaret girls who sprawl along the bar or swing from the rafters. bangkok101.com

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Booking at www.divinobkk.com marketing@divinobkk.com or call T. 02 7148723

Say it with wine...

Enjoy our four-course menu for two people – with an appetiser, pasta, main course and dessert, as well as a bottle of rose wine – for B4000.

Penny’s Balcony Thonglo Soi 16, Sukhumvit 55, 10110 Bangkok

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Valentine’s Day at

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listings dining scene. The very talented mixologist Mirko Gardelliano was Germany’s Cocktail Champion in 2003, while the wine bar chef Urs Lustenberger worked with Michelin three star chef Juan Amador.

WTF [Map 3/Q6]

Viva Aviv

OSKAR BISTRO [map 3/D5] 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255 3377 4pm-2am; kitchen open until 11.30pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby; and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. The food choice includes sandwiches, the Oskar burger (wagyu beef – what else?), pizzas and a section of cocottes. Almost all are under B300, which for food of this surprising quality is a steal. Most people come here though not for the food but for a pre-club libation: be it glass of wine (from B145 a glass), imported beer, or reasonably priced cocktail.

VIVA AVIV [map 5/C2] River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 02-639-6305 vivaaviv.com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade, inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic look, the bar was initially looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek. Their ‘Rough Cut’ Signatures, many are pleasingly heavy on the rum, are among the real highlights.

Water Library @ Grass Grass Thong Lor, 264/1 Thong Lor Soi 12 02-714-9292 | Mon-Sat 6.30pm-1am Aside from its upmarket, inventive set menu dining on the first floor restaurant, The Water Library also has three lounge and wine bar areas downstairs with funky food, cocktails and live music at not audacious prices. A set menu of three cocktails paired with tapas bites at B790 is a pleasant surprise to many, and their wine list starts at a mere B900 a bottle. Water Library is one-to-watch on the regional drinking and 94 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 02- 626-6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am This tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. Expect live gigs and art exhibitions upstairs.

LIVE MUSIC ADHERE the 13TH [Map 7/G3] 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) 089-769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except forthe Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ’em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match.

TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY [MAP 2/E11]

462/61 Rama III Rd | 02- 678-1114 tawandang.co.th The one place that every taxi driver seems to know, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall packs in the revelers nightly. They come for the towers of micro-brewed beer, the Thai, Chinese and German grub (especially the deep-fried pork knuckle and sausage), and, not least, the famous Fong Nam houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by 10pm, when the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt, everybody is on their feet and the place going bananas.

Brown Sugar

Jazz clubs BAMBOO BAR [Map 5/B4] The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave 02-659-9000 | mandarinoriental.com Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns.

Brown Sugar [Map 7/J5] 469 Phrasumen Rd | 089-499-1378 brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Little over a month after it closed down, one of Bangkok’s oldest cosiest jazz venue was back with a new, bigger location near Khao San. Now a restaurant and coffee house by day, it morphs into a world-class, jazz café-style haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw an audience of locals and visitors by night. Inside, it’s huge, with a daytime coffeeshop up front, a versatile 200-seater ‘Playhouse’ upstairs, and the big, open-plan jazz pub and restaurant out back. Six house bands fill up the week, and on the last Friday or Saturday of each month they showcase an international act.

Niu’s on Silom [Map 5/E5] 2nd F, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style lounge – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for various international acts who perform regularly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring established overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfor table for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concer to Italian restaurant upstairs. bangkok101.com

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28/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 19, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana Open Monday - Sunday 6am-2am T. 02-651 2180

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tube gallery By Gaby Doman

f there’s xxxxxone xxxxxx localxxxxx designer that makes us drool at the mouth, xxxit’s Tube Gallery. The collections are unfailingly stunning, xxx taking their inspiration from couture cuts and high xxxart. What you get with Tube Gallery is never throwaway fashion but pieces that you’ll store in your wardrobe for years to come, occasionally stroking them and, if you’re lucky, having available at: a few invitations fabulous enough to warrant slipping into one of their gowns. xxx The spring-summer 2014 collection is no exception, of course, xxx and has already made fashion ripples globally when UK-based xxx Girls Aloud singer Kimberly Walsh made a bold statement when she stepped out in a floor-length red jumpsuit xxxweb with metallic trim from this season’s collection at the end of last year. But the collection doesn’t need the celeb factor to highlight its appeal. It’s inspired by Russian culture, taking the intricate designs and colours that are conjured up by Matryoshka dolls and St Basil’s Cathedral. The cacophony of colours is layered with fine embroidery and beadwork which are, according to the designers, inspired by pieces of jewellery and art on display in the Kremlin Museum. Many of the dresses in the collection are unmistakably folksy in style. Dresses are cut with excess fabric for a beautifully rippled and draped effect and are often outrageously patterned, reminiscent of real-life Russian doll, fashonista Ulyana Sergeenko. There are three colour schemes throughout the collection, each depicting a different aspect of Russian heritage. The striking red and gold theme is taken from the colours associated with Russian imperialism. The style matches the colour scheme, with bold cuts and look-at-me pieces. A more subdued look is found in the collection’s white and blue-toned pieces, including a beautiful knee-length dress with a floorlength trail. The third scheme is the most colourful; inspired by Russian dolls. Pieces are made up of a dazzling range of colours and patterns, short dress styles and flippy skirts. Each look is unashamedly feminine; whether it’s the cutesy doll look, the innocence of the ceramic print or the seductive colours of imperialism and you can guarantee that any piece you pick up from Tube Gallery will be the most statement item of clothing you own, even if you rarely get the chance to wear it.

available at: 3F Siam Centre (989 Rama 1 Rd; 02-658-1000) 1F Siam Paragon (991 Rama 1 Rd; 02-610-8000) bangkok101.com

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APRIL 2013 | 97

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SHOPPING

jj gem

somnuk lamp This month’s JJ Gem started out selling old, King Rama V-era glass lamps to collectors at Bangkok’s Sanam Luang, the public green in front of the Grand Palace. But when demand for these illuminating antiques based on European or Moroccan designs outstripped supply, the owners moved into making reproductions instead. Today, Somnuk Lamp is where JJ-goers head to add an elegant, old-world glow and brassy finish to their home or business, with fauxantique, factory-made lamps of all shapes, patterns, hues and sizes dangling chaotically from its rafters. There are also freestanding table-lamps and wall-lamps on sale, as well as a selection of mock-vintage home decor items, like shelf brackets, mirrors, door knobs, brass fans and fully functioning gramophones. Local or international shipping is available, but only for wholesale orders.

somnuk lamp JJ Market : Section 1, Soi 36/1 lock 146-147 084-015-3273 | jrdlamp.com

Jatujak Market

Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix. 98 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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> The Jatujak market of Bangkok Amber House Books | hardcover | B1,950

The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual inter pretation of Bangkok’s world-famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. bangkok101.com

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unique boutique

SHOPPING

OXOBJECT

nder the BTS Station Thong Lor, Oxobject is a small shop which sells exclusive interior decoration accessories. From the outside looking in, the shop looks pretty much like a house owned by an eccentric collector of rare objects. The lighting inside creates a lowkey atmosphere with a slight touch of serenity. According to the managing director there, Suriya Pojchaijongdee, the shop is made to blend in with the environment. According to him, most people don’t even notice this is a shop and many have asked him if Oxobject is new despite it being there for more than two years. The name Oxobject derives from the rusting process of iron-metal, material that is used to make most of the interior accessories at the shop. Channelling nature during the making process of the accessories will give each object an identity of its own, according to Suriya. He says each object will rust differently and that will give each of them a unique look and its own identity. Suriya adds: “We want to find beauty within the imperfections. “We want to make things look simplistic yet elegant and sophisticated”. Most objects at the shop are inspired by primarily natural shapes. Suriya explains that the accessories are made to look classic and minimal, to make them fit comfortably into every living space. While in the shop, one can notice that there are many interior accessories resembling horses. This has to do with the theme of spirituality Oxobject is trying to represent. Not a strange idea at all when considering that horses are often associated with spirituality in ancient mysticism. bangkok101.com

Book 1.indb 99

Oxobject [Map 3/S11] 806/4 soi Santisuk Sukhumvit 38 | 08-1685-5602 oxobject.com | Mon-Sat 9am-5pm

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WELLN ESS

treatment Tria

Shin Shin Spa

SHIN SHIN Spa (MAP3 / Y6) L-floor Jasmine Resort Hotel, 1511 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-335-5022 | 10am-8pm shinshinspa.com | $$$

Shin Shin Spa offers modestly priced treatments in a clean, modern, minimally styled space. It’s not a big place by any means – there are two oil treatment rooms and a Thai massage room, and that’s it. However, Shin Shin’s size is no reflection of the quality on offer. In fact it has a couple of aces up its sleeve. First and foremost is the spa’s signature circular motion massage technique. This is said to increase blood circulation and aid the absorption of oils into the skin. Secondly, a ‘silk essence’ lends a, well, silkiness to some of the massage treatments, including our pick: Shin Shin’s self-titled signature treatment. This begins with a fresh milky body scrub (B600 for 30min) and closed with the Silk Essence Body Oil Therapy (B1600 for 90min, and B2000 for 120min).

HAPA SPA (MAP3/D8) 20/4 Sukumvit Soi 3 | 02-651-0966 hapaspa.com | 10am-10pm | $$

Wedged between multi-story condos and weirdish hotels, Hapa’s location stands out insofar as you’d never expect a

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Hapa Spa

professional spa in an alley off Afro-Arab Nana. A long, glass-walled building draws in the uninitiated through its unique circular entrance and purple-tinged salon to metal boxes. Inside your own private bunker, a stylish, serene setting includes inspired mini gardens, soft purple and cream tones and beds accommodating even the longest-legged Westerner. The extensive menu features the signature Aromatherapy massage, organic body scrubs and other tasty-sounding body delights, plus infrared thermal sauna, all executed by cheery, competent therapists. The all-natural house products are for sale and service, atmosphere and treatments are all fivestar, the prices are budget, especially when you inquire about ever-changing promotions.

TRIA INTEGRATIVE WELLNESS (MAP8 /R12)

998 Rimklongsamsen Rd | 02-660-2600 triaintegrativewellness.com | $$$

This top-notch spa connected to Piyavate Hospital offers a full-on “integrative” approach – a team of specialists from physicians to personal trainers, to bodywork therapists – restaurants offering healthy spa facilities and treatments, and even enough function

space for group of 200. Bangkok has a few “medical spas” offering such approaches to Western-medicine and traditional therapies, but Tria is truly one of the best. Opt for extensive programs devoted to anti-aging, pre-natal care, holistic detoxification, or even simpler aesthetic treatments, and you’ll get access to a gorgeous spa pool, an infrared sauna, a steam room, and Swiss and Vichy showers. Treatments range from massage to Ayurvedic treatments and Chinese Chi Nei Tsang therapy sessions. Our simple scrub and wrap was a delight but we’d recommend springing for some of the more unusual treatments.

Yunomori Onsen & Spa [MAP 3 / O9] A Square, Sukhumvit 26 | 02-259-5778 facebook.com/yunomorionsen | $$

Yunomori isn’t an onsen (a Japanesestyle hot springs) in the strictest sense of the word but rather the souped up inner-city version, with other facilities such as spas, restaurants and bars as well as pools to bath in. In the changing rooms, you strip off, lock away your belongings, take a deep breath and emerge, as naked as a newborn, into the baths. Once happy in your birthday suit, the bath hopping begins. We counted five, from the warm soda bath featuring water infused with CO2 to the near scalding jet bath and main onsen, both of which use spring water sourced from Ranong. Once you’ve soaked until you can soak no more, head out in your slippers and Japanese robe and explore Yunomori’s extras. Spa costs $ :: under B600 $$ :: B600-B1000 $$$ :: B1000-B2000 $$$$ :: B2000+

bangkok101.com

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treatment

WELLN ESS

a day of

luxury

t’s often the small things, the attention to detail, that make a spa treatment memorable and although it’s not unusual for a massage to begin with a foot massage, the one on offer at the Luxsa Spa is exeptional, skilled fingers and thumbs kneading the tendons in a way that sends a shudder of relaxtion through the rest of the body. That’s not to say the rest of the treatments fail to live up to expectation – quite the opposite. There’s a choice of signature treatments from B2500 for 60 minutes to B3500 for 90 minutes and B4300 if you fancy a bit of hot stone healing. As with many places, there are different benefits associated with the different treatments, everything from improving blood circulation to stimulating metabolism and balancing the nervous system. Alternatively, you can focus on specific areas: arms and hands (B1800) or neck, back, shoulders and scalp (B2400). The technique is excellent, with deep kneading strokes that manage to tenderise and soothe without creating that slightly awkward bruising sensation. And even if you go for a full-body signature treatment, there’s plenty of work put into certain areas – you’ll be amazed at the way tension is palpably drawn out of your hands and forearms. BY TOM STURROCK

luxsa spa

[MAP 4/h7]

10F Hansar Bangkok, 3/250 Soi Mahadlekluang 2, Ratchadamri Rd 02-209-1234 | hansarbangkok.com | 10am-10pm

bangkok101.com

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getting there Book 1.indb 102

Wat Phra kaeo

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RAIL

Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B 39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th

SKYTRAIN (BTS)

Airport Rail Link

The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B 15 to B 55; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th

SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central

railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT

RIVER

EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B 9 to B 32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30 am and 6 pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B 3.

CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B 9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.

ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B 5 and B 7.50 – B 23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, bangkok101.com

Book 1.indb 103

A 28 km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain. One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150.

motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should be negotiated beforehand.

TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered,

air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B 35 (for the first 2 kms) and the fare climbs in B 2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B 5 or B 10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B 50 surcharge is added.

TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B 40. F EBRUA RY 2014 | 103

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Map 1 Greater Bangkok A

Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya Map 2 >

L MYANMAR

Uthai Thani

UTHAI THANI

CHAI NAT

Chiang Mai

LOP BURI

Nakhon Ratchasima c

Nakhon Ratchasima

Pattaya CAMBODIA Koh Samet Koh Chang

NAKHON RATCHASIM A

SARABURI

Andaman Sea

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

Koh Samui

AYUTTHAYA

Phuket

PATHUM THANI 5

1 2

MALAYSIA

PRACHIN BURI

f c

RATCHABURI

VIETNAM

Gulf of Thailand

Krabi

NAKHON NAYOK

NAKHON PATHOM

Ubon

Bangkok

ANG THONG

KANCHANABURI

Udon Thani

Lop Buri

Kanchanaburi

LAOS

THAILAND

SING BURI

SUPHAN BURI

SA KAEO

BANGKOK f a

SAMUT SAKHON

CHACHOENGSAO

SAMUT

1 PRAKAN

SAMUT SONGKHRAM

CA M BODI A CHON BURI

Phetchaburi

Ko Sichang

PHETCHABURI 8

Pattaya RAYONG

Cha-am

CHANTHABURI

Rayong Hua Hin

Ko Samet

Muang Chantaburi

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN 10

Trat

Gulf of Thailand

M YA N M A R

Ko Chang

Prachuap Khiri Khan

Ko Kut

20 km 20 miles Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border

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Sightseeing a

Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park

floating Markets Damnoen Saduak 2 Amphawa 1

Museums 1

Erawan Museum 2 House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods

night bazaar 1

Asiatique The Riverfront [free shuttle boat from Sathorn pier everyday 4.00-11.30 pm.]

Nightlife 1 2

Parking Toys Tawandang German

Hotels 1 Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort and Spa

bangkok101.com

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Nâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;

Tanya Tanee

PAK KRET

Don Mueng

Don Mueng Int. Airport

Ko Kret

Sai Mai

Royal Irrigation Dept.

Lak Si

Rajpruek

The Legacy

Northpark

Khlong Sam wa

Royal Thai Army Sport Center

Thanont

Chatuchak Bang Sue

Bang Phlat

Bueng Kum

Huai Khwang

Saphan Sung

Bang Kapi

Pathumwan

Bangkok Yai Wongwian Yai

Bang Rak

Khlong San *

Thon Buri 1

Chom Thong

Bang Kholaem

Lat Krabang

Suan Luang

Khlong Toei

Sathorn

60th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park

Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande

Watthana

Lumpini

Wang Thong lang

DinDaeng Ratchathewi

Mini Buri

Navatanee

Phayathai

Taling Chan

Khan na Yao

Mo Chit

Dusit

Bangkok Noi

Panya Indra

Lat Phrao

Chatuchak

Bang Sue

Bang Bon

Bang Khen

MUENG NONTHABURI

Phasi Charoen

Prawet Yan 2 Nawa

Rat Burana

Phra Khanong 4

Phra Pradaeng

Suan Luang Rama IX

Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport

Bang Na

Summit Windmill

Bearing

Bang Khun Thian

Mueang Kaew

Thung Khru

Green Valley

PHRA SAMUT CHEDI

SAMUT PRAKAN

Bangpoo

Gulf of Thailand

bangkok101.com

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Map 3 Sukhumvit Road A

Phra Ram 9

Ram

a IX

Roya

m9 Prara ital Hosp

l Cit

y Ave

RC A ange R ing

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Din

kam

phae

ng P

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Makkasan

tcha

Stat

2nd

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buri

road (Toll Expy

38/1

phae

ng P

kam

het

Prasanmit Su

9/1

hro m Ph on g

i 33

15 13

Soi 35

it So

Soi

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14 NO

Sukhumwit

umw

wit

it So

hum

Sukh

Suk

umw

i 27

Phrom

wit i2

Benjasiri Park

Su i1

h ko

wit

Tai

ana

s re

Benjakiti Park

Hotels N

300 m 1 328 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Subway Line Railway

106 | F EBRUA RY 2014

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Conrad Bangkok Sheraton Grande 3 Seven 4 JW Marriott 5 Rembrandt 6 Four Points 7 Aloft Sukhumvit 11 8 Ramada Encore 9 Imperial Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit 2

Marriott Executive 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta Sukhumvit Park 12 Grande Centre Point 5 TCDC (Thailand Terminal 21 Creative & Design 13 Sofitel Bangkok Centre 6 Nang Kwak Sukhumvit 14 Le Fenix 7 WTF 15 Radisson Sukhumvit 8 The Pikture Gallery 15 Marriott Bangkok 9 We*Do Gallery 10 RMA Sukhumvit

Arts & Culture 1

Japan Foundation 2 Koi Art Gallery

Emporium

Markets 4

Sukhumvit

malls 1 2

Robinsons Terminal 21 bangkok101.com

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Sukhumw

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Soi

Sukh

it So

Asok 16

ale

1 6

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Sukh

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udi

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it So

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14 35 31 38 39 26 2 15 7 32 29

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Nana

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chat Bura kon ya Chai ital Hosp

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Thong

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Camillian Hospital

Thong

g yon nom

ng myo

ng Lo

ai 21

i Ba

ano

Prid

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Bano

kamai

Soi Tho Ekkam

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ano

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cha

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1 Prid

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3 5

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umw

eng M

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Clubs 1

Q Bar Bed Supperclub 3 Insomnia 10 Glow 24 Demo 26 Levels 27 Funky Villa 2

pubs 11

The Hanrahans The Pickled Liver 13 The Robin Hood

bangkok101.com

Book 1.indb 107

The Royal Oak The Londoner 16 Black Swan 15

Nightlife 4

Long Table Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Barsu 19 WTF 17 Alchemist 18 Club Perdomo 5

The Iron Fairies

21 Clouds

Fat Gut'z Shades of Retro 25 diVino 28 Le Bar de L'Hotel 29 W XYZ 30 Face Bar 31 Marshmallow 32 Oskar Bistro 33 Tuba 34 Sonic 35 Apoteka 36 Water Library 23

Gossip Bar

Above Eleven

38 Nest

Embassies IN

India

IR Iran LK

Sri Lanka

PH Philippines

Qatar Ukraine NO Norway QA UA

F EBRUA RY 2014 | 107

1/23/14 5:20 PM

Map 4 Siam / Chit Lom A

5 Soi 3

Soi 31 Soi 33

Soi 25

Soi 29

Soi Tonson

Henri Dunant

Soi Lang Suan

Soi Nai Lert 15

Soi 2 Soi 3

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Soi 4

Soi 3

Ratchadamri

Rud

NZ QA

uam

Soi Lang Suan1

Soi R

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Soi 5

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mvit

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hith

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ukhu

Phaya Thai

ng P

Rajamangala University

g 11 7

Soi S

2 c

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Th. Witthayu

c 10 11

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w ress

4 e 3

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Wat Pathum Wanaram

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Ratchaprarop

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Soi 23

Soi 19

Soi 15

Soi 27

Soi 32

Soi 30

Witthayu Bridge

Exp

Soi Kaesem San1

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ohn Nak

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14 b

c 2

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Prathunam

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lerm

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Soi 20

Ratchathewi 2

uri

Cha

Phetchaburi Soi 18

Phetchab

Soi 22

Soi 13

Soi 4

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Chulalongkorn University Area

Hotels 1

Pathumwan Princess Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate 6 Novotel Platinum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan 8 The Four Seasons 9 The St. Regis 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 15 Hotel Muse 16 Okura Prestige 2

200 m 1 000 ft Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market

Arts & Culture 1

BACC – Bangkok Art and Culture Centre 2 Tonson Gallery

Sarasin

Soi 6 Soi Ruam Rudi

Soi 7

Sarasin Lumphini Park

Sightseeing

malls

Embassies

MBK Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza 6 Platinum Fashion Mall 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen @ CentralWorld 9 Pratunam Center 10 Gaysorn 11 Erawan Plaza 12 The Peninsula Plaza 13 Amarin Plaza 14 Central Chidlom 15 All Seasons Place

Jim Thomson House Museum of Imagery Technology c Madame Tussauds d Queen Savang Vadhana Museum e Siam Ocean World f Ganesha and Trimurti Shrine g Erawan Shrine h Goddess Tubtim Shrine b

Nightlife a CM2 b

Red Sky Bar Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar d P&L Club e Café Trio f Hyde & Seek c

Switzerland

BR Brazil FI Finnland ID Indonesia KH Cambodia NL Netherlands NZ

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QA Quatar UA Ukraine UK

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Shopping 16 17

Siam Square Pratunam Market

108 | F EBRUA RY 2014

Book 1.indb 108

bangkok101.com

1/23/14 5:20 PM

Silom / Sathorn Map 5 E

kho 2

t are akh

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

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ong

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bars with views

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Arts & Culture 1

AT Austria

Shopping

MY Malaysia

Robinsons River City Shopping 3 Silom Village 4 Silom / Patpong Night-Market 5 Jim Thompson Store 2

Book 1.indb 109

AU Australia BE Belgium

200 m

BT Bhutan

1 000 ft

CA Canada DE Germany DK Denmark GR Greece FR France MX Mexico

River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market

MM Myanmar PT Portugal SG Singapore TW Taiwan

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bangkok101.com

Embassies

Serindia Gallery 2 Silom Galleria: Number 1 Gallery, Tang Contemporary Art, Taivibu Gallery, Gossip Gallery 3 H Gallery 4 Bangkokian Museum 5 Alliance Francaise

Snake Farm MR Kukrit’s House

F EBRUA RY 2014 | 109

1/23/14 5:20 PM

Map 6 Yaowarat / Pahurat (Chinatown & Little India ) A

M ai

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r ad

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Hotels Grand China Princess Bangkok Shanghai Mansion 1

200 m

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110 | F EBRUA RY 2014

Arts & Culture 1

Chalermkrung Theatre Samphanthawong Museum 3 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre 2

Princess Mother Memorial Park

e pir

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1 000 ft

Book 1.indb 110

la n g

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bangkok101.com

1/23/14 5:20 PM

Map 7 Rattanakosin (Oldtown) A

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Book 1.indb 111

lon

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Rajchawongse

F EBRUA RY 2014 | 111

1/23/14 5:20 PM

M Y B ANGKOK

Eggarat Wongcharit

Educated at Silpakorn University, Pratt Institute and Domus Academy, Eggarat Wongcharit is one of Thailand’s most successful designers of contemporary furniture and home accessories. He is the CEO of Craft Factor (crafactor. com), and primary organiser and curator of the Thai design exhibition each year at Milan’s Salone Internazionale de Mobile.

How has design in Bangkok changed compared to 20 years ago? Back then Thai designers were strictly OEM (original equipment manufacturing), but we're shifting into ODM (original design manufacturing), combining design with production rather than just producing other people's designs. Lower labour costs attracted investors in the past but that is changing with cheaper labour markets in Cambodia, China and Vietnam. Thais can no longer survive selling cheap labour; we have to elevate our image toward something more exclusive. Tell us about your involvement in Salone Internazionale de Mobile in Milan this year. I’m curating around 40 Thai designers this year, focusing on what I call Thai craftology, a mixture of craft and technology. We're not as hightech as Korea or Taiwan, even though we're headed that way. So we still promote out strength in handmade elements and natural materials like bamboo or water hyacinth. Tell us about Craft Factor and Slow Hand Design. I established Craft Factor in 2002 with three other Thai designers who have international backgrounds. Our 112 | F EBRUA RY 2014

Book 1.indb 112

Issaya Siamese Club

aim is to produce well-designed furniture which fits an urban, trendoriented lifestyle by bridging art, craft, technology, and innovation. Slow Hand Design is a concept I came up with for the Thai design exhibitions at Salone de Mobile in Milan, emphasising the ways in which our art and cultural history influences Thai modern design. You’re always impeccably dressed. Who are your favourite Bangkok fashion designers? I don’t buy according to designer or brand usually, just pick up whatever strikes my fancy while travelling, or at Chatuchak market. Locally for me, I think Theatre designs clothes that almost never get dated. I also admire Kai’s classic designs a lot. Where do you like to go for evening entertainment? Since I got married I don't go out

that much, and when I do it’s usually to meet close friends at quiet restaurants. I also like to have friends over for dinner parties, when I usually cook Italian. Otherwise I drop in to The Club or Brick Bar on Khao San Rd, or Oskar on Sukhumvit Soi 11 sometimes. I don’t really go for the hi-so nightlife scene in Thong Lor and Ekamai. What about your favourite restaurants in Bangkok? I like Bacco for Italian, and Issaya Siamese Club for contemporary Thai cuisine. What is your favourite weekend getaway from the city? We have a house in Hua Hin, so that’s usually where me and my family go to get away. I love travelling in Isan, too, when I have a chance. There’s something about the close contact with the earth there that makes me feel more creative. What do you like most about Bangkok? It’s a very eclectic and also very tolerant and flexible city, open to outside influence and accommodating every sort of person. Even when things aren’t that convenient or practical, the hospitality makes up for it. bangkok101.com

1/23/14 5:20 PM

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Wat Soi Thong

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Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

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bangkok 101

Love is in the air

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