The Soulful Science of Thai Cuisine: Betel Thailand’s culinary repertoire has always been a blend of art and science. At Ruen Urai – “the House of Gold” – dishes are prepared with passion and flair based on an intimate knowledge of ingredients and their flavours, textures, and aromas. Paying homage to the doctor of herbal medicine who originally resided in the century-old golden teakwood house in which Ruen Urai is located, our Thai gourmet voyage continues to explore zesty herbs and spices and their meanings and usage. Take the betel plant, a perennial creeper with glossy heart-shaped leaves, which are eaten raw when young and can also be cooked. Betel leaves and areca nuts are traditionally used in ceremonies and weddings among many Southeast Asian cultures. A groom may offer his bride's parents betel and areca, the leaf and the nut symbolizing the ideal married couple bound together. The betel is valued as a mild stimulant, an antiseptic, and a breath freshener. The Chinese and Thais crush betel leaves with salt to relieve toothache, headaches and pain in the bones. Mieng Larb Bped, a spicy salad of roasted duck, wraps robust flavours up in these humble leaves. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel opens from 12 noon to 11 p.m. 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
W
e like to focus on new things here at Bangkok 101 – the most interesting restaurants, the most exciting bars and clubs to open in the city. But this month, in the spirit of Chinese New Year, we look to the past with a visit to the Charoen Krung neighbourhood, where old shophouses are getting a new lease of life breathed into them by a flourishing art-based community. Our resident culture-vulture, Tom Vitayakul, also serves up a nostalgic treat with a return to some of Bangkok’s most venerable Chinese restaurants, institutions where classics such as Peking duck, hairy crab and dim sum remain menu stalwarts. The Chinese theme continues on a trip to Nan, the quiet northern province with a culture that can be traced to rural Yunnan, and a visit to the beautiful lakeside gardens of Hangzhou. Old Siam is showcased too in the form of a fascinating exhibition of images taken by pioneering photographer John Thomson during a visit to Bangkok some 150 years ago. Elsewhere, on a more modern plane, we drink whisky at the stylish new Whisgars outlet on Silom and sample delicious Mexican and Indian cuisine crafted with contemporary flair. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.
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WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
F EBRUA RY 2015 | 3
CONTRIBUTORS
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Matt Wilde editor
Craig Sauers associate editor
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
Food and travel writer HOWARD RICHARDSON lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ , the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.
Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large
Joe Cummings art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Michael Moore, Nan Tohchoodee, Keith Mundy, Tom Sturrock, Adam O’Keefe, Marco Ferrarese, Laurence Civil contributing photographers
Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director sales and marketing
British-born writer-artist STEVEN PETTIFOR stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Very Thai author PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon
director business development
Willem Deenik
account executive
Orawan Ratanapratum circulation
Prajak Manee-In published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2014. All rights reserved.
AVAILABLE AT:
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No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them. S EFPETBERM UA B ERRY 22001145 | 5
CONTENTS 46
20 44
14
CITY PULSE
46 over the border:
8 metro beat
paradise found?
12 hot plates: savelberg
NIGHTLIFE 89 nightlife news 90 review: whisgars silom
14 out and about: roaring
ART & CULTURE
revival: chinatown’s urban
52 exhibition highlights
evolution
54 feature: the sizzling
20 best of bangkok: wok
art of six
92 nightlife listings
‘n’ roll stars
56 cheat notes
24 making merit: small
58 photo feature: old
world big impact
siam on a glass plate
SNAPSHOTS
FOOD & DRINK
26 tom’s two satang
67 food & drink news
28 very thai
68 valentine’s day meal
29 thailand at random
deals
96 new collection:
30 joe’s bangkok
69 restaurant reviews/
tawn c
54
32 bizarre thailand
previews: osha, us
98 unique boutique: say
69
34 temples, historic
steakhouse, barcelona
it with flowers
buildings, museums and
gaudi, méjico, charcoal,
99 spotlight tailor: tailor
parks
chez papé
on ten
96
SHOPPING
78 in the kitchen: michel
TRAVEL
eschmann
40 up country now
79 eat like nym
WELLNESS 102 spa listings
44 up country escape:
80 restaurant listings
103 anantara spa
northern soul
84 imbibe: capital spirit
REFERENCE 104 maps 112 my bangkok: atsuyuki katsuyama
ON THE COVER Here be dragons: A colourful mosaic in Bangkok’s Chinatown district.
6 | F EBRUA RY 2015
bangkok101.com
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metro beat A week after New Found Glory strut their stuff at Live House Studio, Californian band This Wild Life will jump into the spotlight at the same venue. The acoustic pop-punk duo formed in 2012 and has steadily risen to fame ever since, performing at The Warped Tour and even on the popular TV show “The Bachelorette.” Tickets are priced at B1200 for the February 17 show, or you can buy tickets to see both New Found Glory and This Wild Life for B2100. Doors open at 7pm, and the concert starts at 7.30pm.
by Craig Sauers
POP & ROCK
Hinds To celebrate the launch of their concept store, SUPERSWEET x moumi are bringing the recently renamed Hinds to Bangkok on February 14. Formerly known as Deers, the roaming indie rockers from Spain will hit the stage at Grease (Sukhumvit 49, 0 2662 5535) at 8.30pm. Their wistful, loop-driven tunes ought to be a big hit with local crowds. To get a wristband to the show, spend over B1000 at the store (opposite Grease) from January 15.
CLASSICAL
New Found Glory New Found Glory returns to Bangkok on February 10 following a year of major changes. Taking stage at Live House Studio (JJ Green, Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd, 081 930 3633) as a quartet — without founding member, guitarist Steve Klein — the group will play ballads old and new, including hits off their latest album, Resurrection. A pioneer in the American pop-punk scene, New Found Glory has held firm to its roots since forming in Florida in 1997: stories of love and heartbreak sung over crunching guitars and driving, energetic drumbeats. Songs like “Hit or Miss” and “All Downhill From Here” defined the band in its early years, and new tracks like “Ready and Willing” suggest a similar style of suburban punk in the future. Doors open at 7pm, and the show starts 30 minutes later. Tickets are priced at B1500. 8 | F EBRUA RY 2015
Makoto Ueno The Gift of Life Foundation and Sala Sudasiri Sobha have united to stage an evening of classical piano and violin on February 21 (158/20 Ladprao 41, 02 541 8662 or 080 407 8231). Japanese musicians Makoto Ueno and Yoichiro Ueno, the latter a 6th-grade wunderkind from Kyoto, will entertain guests with a recital that features sonatas and etudes from the likes of Liszt, Handel, Mozart, and Beethoven. Tickets are B500, with proceeds going to help blood disease patients in Thailand. The night starts with cocktails at 6.30pm, and the music begins at 7.30pm. bangkok101.com
metro beat
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PERFORMANCE
Bang La Merd On February 8 at Bistro 33 (22 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 08 1869 1104), the Bangkok Community Theatre is holding open auditions for English-speaking adults, aged 16 and up, for the upcoming performance of “Jack and the Beanstalk”. The mid-May production brings children into the fold, so actors have to be enthusiastic about interacting with an audience of youngsters. Most roles are open to both men and women. Those wishing to audition should register in advance by contacting bonniez@sala.net while those interested in helping out behind the scenes are also welcome to contact Bonnie for more information. B-Floor Theatre presents Bang La Merd, a solo performance by renowned actress Ornanong Thaisriwong. Winner of numerous industry awards and much critical acclaim, Bang La Merd is a small scale performance that deals with a big subject matter, addressing people’s freedom of expression. The first show, held in 2012, was favourably received by audience and press alike, presenting a social issue that hit close to home and challenged the audience to participate. The performance runs at Thong Art Space (Sukhumvit 55) from January 22 until February 9, starting at 8pm each night. Tickets are THB500. For reservations, call 09 5542 4555 or 09 5924 4555.
FILM
Casting Blossoms to the Sky Running from the end of January through February 8, the annual Japanese Film Festival returns to Major Cineplex at Siam Paragon (Rama I Rd, 0 2610 7911) under the theme of ‘life’. Fifteen award-winning films, including “Casting Blossoms to the Sky” and “Lupin the 3rd,” will show on the big screen. The festival is once again being put on thanks to the support of The Japan Foundation and the Embassy of Japan. Tickets are B100 for every feature. bangkok101.com
ART
Asano Solo Show On February 20, Soy Sauce Factory (Soi 24 Charoenkrung Rd, 09 2115 8696) hosts an exhibition titled “Asano Solo Show” showcasing works by Japanese beat-maker and visual artist Asano Ryuhei. Although educated in traditional Japanese dyeing, Ryuhei is not bound by convention. His gentle, yet undeniably odd, designs appear on canvas, paper, wood, skulls, and plastic, and his medium is equally diverse: oil, acrylic, water colour, ink, pencil, and pen. F EBRUA RY 2015 | 9
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SPORTS
Bangkok International Rugby Lace up your cleats for the Bangkok International Rugby Tens. Now in its 10th year, the weekend-long tournament, from February 27 to March 1, brings cup, plate, bowl, and shield style competitions to the fields at Bangkok Patana School (643 Sukhumvit 105). But the event is much more than just rugby matches. Sign up for a golf tournament, pool games, or women’s touch rugby. When the day is done, drink in the festivities with nightly parties. Contact bangkok_10s_rugby@ yahoo.ca for more information.
NIGHTLIFE
Moola JAM (Charoen Rat Soi 1, BTS Surasak), the hip enclave in Sathorn, hosts Vacancy #15 on February 7 starting at 6pm. The latest from the crew of Japanese DJs features artists Moola, ESCB, Tep, and Gaolao. Fusing diverse tracks on vinyl with the always satisfying food, pocket-friendly drink prices, and cool, dive-bar vibe of JAM, this free show offers listeners an alternative — and more intimate — way to interact with music.
FESTIVALS & PARTIES
Run With Me Belle and Sebastian Couples are invited to kick off Valentine’s Day with a unique race at Suan Luang Rama IX (Soi Mu Ban Seri Villa Khrongkan 2, Nong Bon, Prawet). On February 14, head to the park for Run With Me, an event that includes a 20k Couple Run Challenge, a 10k race, and a 3k fun run. The first 100 couples receive t-shirts, and all finishers get cute matching medals. The 20k and 10k runs start at 6.30am, and the 3k run at 6.45am. Entry is B1200 for the Couple Run Challenge, and B700 for the 10k and fun run. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to a charity devoted to street cats. Sign up at bibmaster.com. There’s a new running club in town, one that might just abide by the “work hard, play hard” credo. The Bangkok branch of the international Mikkeller Running Club is just getting started, but it’s already developing a fanbase thanks to friendly paces and the potential for many delicious beers after the run. The second official run starts from the Mikkeller bar (26 Ekamai 10 Yaek 2) at 10am on Saturday, February 7. Runners are invited to stick around the bar for the Keg Party, a part of Bangkok Beer Week, in which 50 different kegs and hundreds of limited edition bottles will be available. 10 | F EBRUA RY 2015
A cast of indie rock all-stars will come to Bangkok this February for The Hostess Club Weekender, a much-loved music festival imported from Japan. On February 19 and 20, a line-up of musicians that would make any Pitchfork fan swoon will play at GMM Live House@CentralWorld (BTS Chid Lom, Ratchadamri Rd, 0 2262 3838). Confirmed acts include Temples, Belle and Sebastian, Real Estate, Caribou, tUnEyArDs, and Thurston Moore, the famous singer-songwriter of Sonic Youth. Available at Thaiticketmajor.com, tickets are B1000 per day or B1800 for the weekend. The Kolour crew is promising the outdoor event of the year, complete with gourmet food, live art installations, and some of the world’s top DJs, including Sven Vath. On February 21, Kolour in the Park will transform the Thai Wake Park (18/4 Soi Sudsawas, Lieab Klong 6 Rd, Lam Luk Ka, Pathum Thani) into an open-air party zone. Three years in the making, this 12-hour extravaganza should be pretty raucous. Ticket prices start at B750 for mailing list members and rise to B1100 at the door. Check kolourinthepark.com for more information. bangkok101.com
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hot plates
Savelberg By Howard Richardson
Y
et another world ranked chef has chosen Bangkok for a new venture. This time, it’s former Michelin-starred Henk Savelberg from Holland, who launched at the end of last year. And you see the Michelin credentials immediately, both in the number of amuse bouches – which add to the experience of a special occasion – and the attention to detail that goes into each. The four sampled were all expertly crafted, including a delightful king crab with spicy lobster soup jelly, avocado and wasabi. The restaurant has a high ceiling, very large windows, big black marble floor tiles and fat pillars sporting mirror panels and highlights of orange. It’s all a bit stark and cold in atmosphere, but there are wonderful aromas coming from the open kitchen. The short menu has six starters (B1200-B3000), eight mains (B1650-B2450) and four desserts, plus cheese (B750-B900). There’s also a three-course chef’s suggestion lunch menu (B1800) and a seven-course tasting called the Savelberg Experience (B4900), available with a pairing of seven wines (B2940). Part of the Experience is a delicate lobster salad (B1350). It has enough lukewarm seafood to let you know you’ve started dinner, and it’s cooked perfectly, lifted by a quenelle of lobster cream, blobs of lemon gel and a subtle honey-and-lemon vinaigrette. Slender coils of fresh carrot, daikon, radish and a sprig of fennel provide a good mix of vegetable flavours and a nice crunchy texture. Even though the restaurant opened only a few weeks ago, the team has hit the ground running, due in large part to three chefs and the manager locating to Bangkok from Holland, all of whom have spent time in the mother restaurant. On the Experience menu, the lobster is paired with Spring Chenin Blanc, Granmonte 2013 (B350/B1900), which is perhaps a little dull in the mouth and lacking enough character to pair with a Michelin level dish. Otherwise, the wine list (B1700-B32000/bottle) is long, interesting and well balanced, with wines divided by grape rather than region. It offers 13 by the glass (B350-B550), plus three champagnes (B800-B1500). The main course of grilled turbot (B1900) is a beautiful, meaty piece of fish served with good foils in texture and flavor. These range from wild mushrooms, pea puree, fried green asparagus, onion compote, and sweet and sour onions, to the sweet nuttiness of pistachio crumbles. Wild mushroom sauce is poured tableside. There are lots of combinations here to keep the palate piqued. The tasting menu ends with a dessert called Citrus (B750), comprising lemon mousse, orange cremeaux, orange gel and lime powder. Spun sugar and meringue give crunch and sweetness against the sours, while a Dutch almond and lemon cookie called kletskop adds bitter notes. There’s a rich white Valrhona chocolate sorbet also on the plate, and lemon posset served in a separate cup. This could be an awkward location for such an opening, but the food is excellent and, with the Netherlands embassy next door, Savelberg does have friendly neighbours.
SAVELBERG [MAP 4/K7] Oriental Residence, Ground floor, Wireless Rd | 0 2252 8001 facebook.com/savelbergth | Mon-Sat noon-2pm, 6pm-10pm
12 | F EBRUA RY 2015
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bangkok101.com
J U N E 2014 | 13
Cho Why gets a makeover for a major exhibition
out & about
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Roaring Revival: Chinatown’s Urban Evolution Narrow lanes lined with stolen goods and spare parts, a rabbit warren awash in red light. Peddlers shout and bells ring. The smell of roasting chestnuts floods the air. Neon is carved into the night sky. This is where the old stays old, where signs are handpainted and photographs look like daguerreotypes. It’s where the new grows on the old like patina on a copper pot. This is Bangkok’s Chinatown, a port for migrant souls, a time capsule forever filled with the folklore of the living. BY CRAIG SAUERS.
El Chiringuito empties into the street bangkok101.com
Tapas, drinks, and conversation: all in a night at El Chiringuito F EBRUA RY 2015 | 15
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out & about
Speedy Grandma during one of its quieter moments
T
he chronicles of Chinatown are fragmented and weird, written with backstories of migration, erosion, and rebirth. Hundreds of years ago, waves of Han Chinese settled east of the Chao Phraya. When construction began on the Grand Palace in the 18th century, they moved, forcibly or otherwise, down the river to Sampheng Road. In this pre-industrial landscape, the settlers put hammers to metal and built their community, holding tight to tradition as they integrated into Thai society. Today, family-run businesses claim the same shophouses in which they were established, old institutions like Leng Buai Ia Shrine, Wat Pathum Khongkha, and the Thien Fah Foundation still operate, and, with various circumstances preventing the construction of skyscrapers, the district’s emblematic architectural style has been preserved. In many ways, it’s the same old Chinatown. And yet, current events reveal the early stages of a renaissance. Galleries have given dilapidated spaces new artistic vigour. Dining has left the sidewalks for more accommodating settings. There’s even a burgeoning nightlife scene. While the cinematic, almost romantic depictions of Bangkok’s old quarters ring true, the ongoing revival in Chinatown unveils a world of greater complexity. It’s changing — and fast. Some say that the revival was kick-started by El Chiringuito, a small Spanish tapas joint, complete with a bar, a second-floor gallery, and a definite artistic edge. The restaurant inhabits a renovated shophouse on Soi Nana, a pencil-thin alley off Charoen Krung that shares only a name with the more familiar Nana off Sukhumvit. It was a risk, a project started on the heels of a successful similar venture in Spain. 16 | F EBRUA RY 2015
“In Madrid, my friend had bought many, many places in an area that was full of prostitutes and drugs. Not clean, you know? And I convinced him to let me take over a few [of them]. If it didn’t work, I’d give them back,” says Victor Hierro, who runs El Chiringuito with his wife, Supaporn Sae. “So I called in artists and designers and chefs,” he continues, “and it was crazy good. Within two years it became a hipster neighbourhood, with galleries, restaurants, and cafés opening up by the day. When we came to Chinatown, we saw the same potential in Soi Nana, which was full of empty spaces. And, little by little, it’s working.”
“I’VE ALWAYS WANTED TO START A BUSINESS IN CHINATOWN. I MEAN, LOOK AROUND: THERE’S CULTURE, PASSION, SOUL.” SOULBAR CO-FOUNDER ROMAIN DUPUY If the movement got going with food, it has accelerated thanks to art. Speedy Grandma on Charoen Krung has given expats and locals a reason to visit Chinatown with greater frequency. Founders Thomas Menard and Lee Anantawat have linked up with fellow curators to offer gallery-hopping nights. They’ve introduced informal discussions with artists, talks that linger into the night at the Speedy Grandma bar. They’ve curated controversial bangkok101.com
out & about
The Supergoods light up SoulBar on a Friday night
SoulBar from above, hours before the crowds arrive exhibitions that challenge societal standards: nudes, experimental films, unconventional paintings and drawings. As ground-breaking as these artistic contributions have been, their greatest one transcends the medium. Through pop-up markets, workshops, and parties that throw out all the rules dictating what an opening night should be, Speedy Grandma has engendered a sense of community among artists and art-lovers. Through another of Menard’s projects, Soy Sauce Factory, that community has expanded. Occupying a building in which, fittingly enough, soy sauce used to be produced, the venue is less a gallery than a community space. On the ground floor is a bar-room, left bare and grey, where drinks come in at reasonable prices. A street food-style kitchen serves Northern Thai cuisine, also pocket-friendly, inviting a wider audience to at least check out what’s going on around Charoen Krung. Parties take over on weekends, but weekday events like yoga classes and film screenings speak to the diversity of activities being introduced to the neighbourhood. Near El Chiringuito stands the collaborative space Cho Why. Although the building may have been renovated in order to share emerging local art with residents of Bangkok, its influence has eclipsed its physical presence. During one-off events, Cho Why bridges disciplines from film and music to photography and mixed media. Run by a collective of locally based artists and entrepreneurs, the space has invigorated the once-quiet Soi Nana with documentary screenings, rooftop parties and discussions rallied around current world news. As this burgeoning community settles into its old Thai-Chinese terrain, nightlife has gradually taken shape. 18 | F EBRUA RY 2015
Hands-on art projects at Speedy Grandma Recently, a scene has emerged, led by SoulBar. “I’ve always wanted to start a business in Chinatown. I mean, look around: there’s culture, passion, soul,” says cofounder Romain Dupuy. Inside a renovated shophouse on the southern edge of Chinatown, shortly after Charoen Krung veers left and crosses the canal, live bands play every night of the week, blasting funk, motown, and soul. The soundtrack jumps from James Brown to The Four Tops. Crowds pour out into the street. The interior is dark and industrial. Local art adds a bright contrast to the walls. The drinks list offers stiff cocktails, a variety of high-end beer, and a rare concoction: draft Leo mixed with flavoured Kombucha, an effervescent fermented tea provided by Pure Luck, a distributor based down the road from SoulBar — raspberry jam accents the Spring Beer, and mint chocolate the Summer Beer. There’s a second level with vinyl chairs and low tables for conversation, but Dupuy has plans to enhance it. “I want to carve out a section of the floor and make this area a mezzanine, so if you’re sitting up here, you won’t miss out on the action on the first floor,” he says. It’s palpable, the excitement in the old town, a community with one eye on the past and the other on the future. The revival is real. It’s refined and dynamic. The Chinatown that has steadfastly clung to tradition, mechanically spooling back generations of migrant odysseys, polishing its timeless charm, has added another chapter to its unfolding story, but it’s nowhere close to complete. More cafés, bars, galleries, and restaurants will open soon. The community brought together by these pioneering artists and organizers will swell and expand, but the neighbourhood will retain its peculiar appeal. Chinatown appears ready to change without ever really changing. bangkok101.com
Photograph by Christian Hogue
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A piece of Shanghai in Bangkok’s Chinatown 20 | DECEM BER 2014
bangkok101.com
best of bangkok
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Wok ‘n’ Roll Stars TOM VITAYAKUL
recalls the halcyon days of Bangkok’s old-school independent Chinese
restaurants and highlights a few of the remaining gems in which to feast the senses.
A
lmost every weekend during my childhood, my parents would take the whole family for lunch at one of Bangkok’s traditional Chinese restaurants. Among these were the Golden Dragon in Sukhumvit Road, Hai Tien Lo in Sua Paa Road, Tien Tien on Patpong, and So Bo Lo in Wang Burapa, where steaming dim sum was served from trolleys in true Hong Kong style. These legendary stand-alone restaurants specialized in regional Chinese cuisines ranging from Cantonese and Chiu Chow to Szechuan, Hainanese, and Hakka. In my memory the dishes were all scrumptious. During dinner their private rooms were filled with the agreeable noise of bouncy conversations, gossip, and laughter. If their walls could talk, they would tell intriguing stories of weighty business negotiations and deals struck, of marriage proposals made and family anniversaries celebrated. However, with the onset of the real estate boom of the 1980s and 1990s, these dining venues either went
out of fashion, were not able to afford spiralling rents, or were forced to move when landlords sold out to property developers. One of the oldest, Hai Tien Lo, which opened in 1932, was closed in 1988. It re-emerged for a while in a hotel on Rama IV but closed again recently. Both Sala Thai on Mahesak Road, and Kuan Ah, a popular Hainanese spot formerly at the corner of Rama IV and North Sathorn, have relocated to more affordable premises on Rama 3 Road. In the meantime, many five-star hotels have opened Chinese restaurants within their premises. These new outlets are lushly decorated and provide silver service. Refined ambience seems to be what diners savour, but how I long for the unassuming décor of the old guard and the days when service was simple yet genuine and the food came without much presentation and pretention! There are countless Chinese restaurants spread over Bangkok. Some of the older ones still maintain their retro
Flavour takes precedence over presentation
Suckling pig, a traditional Chinese favourite
bangkok101.com
F EBRUA RY 2015 | 21
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best of bangkok
A platter of crab at Tangjaiyuu furnishings, such as Scala, named for the cinema under which it is located. This is a Siam Square institution dating from the 1970s, as are New Light, Iata, and Kirin (or Ghilane if you pronounce it the Thai way). New Light was one of the first coffee shops opened in Bangkok and it is still going strong. From their extensive menu of Chinese, Thai, and Western dishes, baked rice with minced pork and Chinese black olives, one of the signature offerings, is served with aplomb to a loyal clientele.
“HOW I LONG FOR THE UNASSUMING DÉCOR OF THE OLD GUARD AND THE DAYS WHEN SERVICE WAS SIMPLE YET GENUINE AND THE FOOD CAME WITHOUT MUCH PRESENTATION AND PRETENTION!” In the Silom-Surawong area, everyone knows the Shangrila Restaurants. These are not connected in any way to the Shangri-La Hotel on the river. The first branch opened its doors on Silom in 1969, the second on Thaniya Road in 1980 and the third in Chinatown in 1989. Since then the group has expanded to casual Chinese dining and Japanese cuisine. 22 | F EBRUA RY 2015
The exterior and the interior designs of the Shangrila outlets are more eye-catching than other traditional restaurants. Chinese-style pavilion and rooflines juxtapose with modern settings. The colour red, signifying power and happiness, heavily adorns these faux palaces, so too gold to represent wealth and prosperity. Dragon and phoenix motifs, symbolising yin and yang, grace the walls among art and handicraft pieces from China. Here the cuisine is classic Cantonese. At lunch barbecued meats and myriad dim sum choices are prepared à la minute. They showcase highquality ingredients such as live seafood and fresh vegetables. Spiny lobster comes as sashimi and can be cooked at the table in a steam boat. The fat from the head and flesh is used to swiftly stir-fry rice angel hair, which oozes wok qi. Towards the end of the year hairy crab imported from China appears on the menu. The plump steamed and moist crab flesh and crab roe tingle the taste buds. Another delicious variation is to have it fried and glazed with salted eggs. You can also indulge in whelks and Chinese eels taken ultra-fresh from live tanks, while succulent abalone steamed with garlic deserves all the stars. Aromatic Beggar’s chicken should be pre-ordered. Wrapped in lotus leaves and baked in clay, moisture and flavour are wonderfully preserved. Peking duck – a perennial favourite – and braised ham hock served with steamed buns are also superb. Finally, finish the banquet off with fried taro balls covered with watermelon seeds. Shangrila group is also well-known for its moon cakes. These are specially prepared for the full moon night in September at the apex of the Mid-Autumn Festival bangkok101.com
best of bangkok
CITY PU LSE
New Great Shanghai
Tangjaiyuu, where seafood comes fresh from live tanks every year. In 1989 the group teamed up with Sermsuk Company and Central Department Stores to create a truly gigantic moon cake. Six metres in diameter and weighing in at 2,500 kg, it rightly earned a place in the Guinness world records. It was later cut into 13,000 portions which were sold to raise money for charity. In the Pranakorn area near Ratchadamnoen Road, huge crab claws are still displayed in the glass cabinets of Paan Fah Restaurant. Since 1937 millions of succulent mud crab claws have been served and devoured at the restaurant. The rest of the crab is offered as a separate dish. As this is a Hainanese outlet, one simply must order Hainanese chicken and fragrant rice cooked in chicken stock. Other signature dishes include fried pork intestines, fried seafood sausages, Hainanese-style stir-fried ten vegetables, a hot pot of fish heads, and rice sautéed with crab meat. For the ultimate nostalgic experience, ask to be seated in a wooden benched booth in the main room with electric fans whirling above. Numerous Chinese restaurants have Peking duck on the menu but none of them compare to that which is served at New Great Shanghai on Sukhumvit Road near Emporium. Established several decades ago, its décor has not altered much since I first visited and thankfully the cuisine remains first rate. Before feasting on the duck, start the meal with hot hors d’oeuvres of drunken chicken, deep-fried prawn toasts, stir-fried fish maw, and Shanghai glass noodles with sliced pork. Here they also prepare some Szechuan dishes, including spring onion cakes to pair with stir-fried beef with bangkok101.com
The old style interior of New Great Shanghai soya sauce and chilli. These have the traditional flavours that remind me of much-missed lunches at old Bai Mai Daeng or the Red Leaf on Petchburi Road. In 2010 the crispy skin and tender meat of New Great Shanghai’s Peking duck earned it the no. 1 spot as the best in town on the CNN Go website. The restaurant’s version of duck san choy bow is sautéed with sliced snake beans. Other recommended dishes are fried duck with garlic and pepper and duck soup with pickled lettuce. Back on Surawong Road, Tangjaiyuu from Chinatown opened a new branch a few years ago. The original has been around for more than 65 years. Live seafood swims in tanks in front of the restaurants. A variety of dim sum is available at lunch. While waiting for the main event, peanuts and preserved lettuce provide a piquant distraction for the palate. Here the pièce de résistance is steamed mud crab with minced pork and Chinese black olives. Juicy and luscious, it is always a winner. Other musts are gigantic fried prawn rolls, stir-fried rock lobsters in chilli and salt, steamed snow fish filet, wide rice noodles prepared in the gravy of the fish filets and salted black beans, and sautéed mixed nuts served in a nest made of taro. Fried and glazed in sugar, taro reappears as a devastatingly delicious signature dessert. I’ve come to realise that the bottom line is to enjoy these places while I can. Despite serving up sumptuous fare in a congenial atmosphere, they may not be around in the future. So stuff the calorie and cholesterol count and bring me another duck! F EBRUA RY 2015 | 23
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bangkok101.com
Making Merit
CITY PU LSE
Small World Big Impact Established in the aftermath of the devastating 2004 Asian tsunami, Toys for Thailand is a US-based non-profit organization that collaborates with local Thai agencies such as the Education Development Association. Founded by Sasha Bilar and comprising a completely voluntary team, the organization has been providing tangible goods and services for disadvantaged children in Thailand since 2005.
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n the wake of the tsunami, Bilar and her friends collected some 700 pounds of stuffed animals and dolls and with the help of Thai Airways International, who provided complimentary cargo shipping, they hand delivered the toys throughout the tsunami zone to children who were orphaned or abandoned in the disaster. The philanthropic project has never looked back. Although bringing toys to Thailand began as a quest to give comfort to the young victims of the tsunami, today the organization’s role has expanded to the point where it helps to sustain underserved hill tribe schools in the rugged north, particularly in Maehongson province. Maehongson is one of the poorest areas in the country. Over 70% of the province’s population are hill tribe people, a good proportion of them youngsters. Many of these tribal children face overwhelming difficulties and risks, including HIV/AIDS, sexual exploitation, child labour issues, drug and alcohol abuse, malnutrition and erosion of their cultural traditions. Toys for Thailand has forged influential partnerships to stretch resources and build a support network for these at risk children and it cooperates closely with the Maehongson Education Association, the US Navy Project Handclasp, the Childline Foundation, Chiang Mai International Rotary, AmigoVisionThailand and San Diego Lions Club. These crucial partnerships have meant that over the past 10 years numerous Toys for Thailand volunteers have made over 20 humanitarian trips to Thailand, providing US$200,000+ in resources to the hill tribe schools. These resources included rice husking and soy milk machines, bangkok101.com
agricultural supplies, water systems, solar panels, vocational and instructional tools, educational supplies and visiting medical clinics. And that’s not all. In December of last year Toys for Thailand hosted the 5th Annual Small World Maehongson Festival. Established in 2010, this worthy initiative brings together hundreds of children from isolated hill tribe village schools to celebrate their cultural traditions and raise awareness of their needs. In fact, last year’s instalment saw 1200 children participate. They represented 40 schools from across the Shan, Karen (White, Red and Black) Lawa, Lisu, Lahu, Hmong, Pao, Akha, and Long Neck tribal groups. The boisterous youngsters were able to celebrate their indigenous music together, show off their traditional dance forms, and share their handicrafts and cuisines with visiting Thai and international tourists. Their beautiful and intricately woven colourful tribal dresses also provided visitors with wonderful photo opportunities. Of most satisfaction to all involved though was the handing out of 100 educational scholarships to deserving students. Naturally Toys for Thailand would love to be in a position to help even greater numbers of disadvantaged youngsters in the north and it welcomes donations and volunteers. If you would like to get involved, or simply wish to know more about the organization and its goals, please visit toysforthailand.org or facebook.com/toysforthailand. org. For more information about the Annual Small World Maehongson Festival, you can contact Maria Miller at mmiller@palomar.edu or Mr. Bundit Ninudomsak at koonohm@yahoo.com (Thai/English). F EBRUA RY 2015 | 25
THE LUSTRE OF MAKING MERIT
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bangkok101.com
insight
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Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON GOLD
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hen travellers land at Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok, they don’t just arrive in the “Land of Smiles,” they also arrive in the “Land of Gold,” a reference derived from Laem Tong, the ancient name for the Southeast Asian peninsula. Thailand is also called the “Land of Saffron Robes” but if I have to associate a colour with the country, it has to be gold. Why are Thais so obsessed with this precious shiny metal and the bling bling made from it? The answer is that gold is not only a historically practical portable – and visible – form of wealth, it is also engrained in our subconscious as being highly auspicious. Besides tong or tong khum, the common words for gold, there are many other Thai phrases for it. Hence the names of provinces such as Supanburi and Kanchanaburi (both mean the city of gold), Ang Tong (golden bowl), and Prachuab Khiri Khan (the mountainous border of gold). We love living in “cities of gold.” They simply sound prosperous. Conversely, I think that the abundance of gold referred to is in fact the paddy fields at harvest time, filled as they are with golden ears of ripened rice. The facades of numerous palaces and temples around Thailand are dappled in gold. Roof finials are gilded or mirrored with pieces of golden yellow glass or gold mosaics. When Europeans visited Ayutthaya in its hay day, they were in awe of the former capital’s roof lines and were quick to record its splendour. Many priceless treasures comprising gold jewellery and precious objects were buried under the city’s pagodas as donations to the temples. Unfortunately, the treasures of Ayutthaya were looted by the Burmese (and also by us Thais). Many believe that Ayutthaya’s gold was melted down and taken by the Burmese to gild the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon. However, there is no historical proof of this. The gilding of this grand stupa was started in the 15th century by Queen Shin Sawbu who donated her weight in gold (88 lbs) beaten out into gold leaf. Her son-in-law, Dhammazedi, upped the ante by offering four times of his own weight and that of his wife! Gold is also found extensively in Thais arts and crafts, whether it is in lacquerware, nielloware or golden-threaded bangkok101.com
textiles. Typically, most Bangkokians go to one of the gold shops in Chinatown to buy gold jewellery or gold bars as adornment and investment. But those in the know prefer refined, old-style jewellery created by goldsmiths specialising in the antique craftsmanship of Sukhothai, Petchburi, and Chiang Mai. During the economic boom in the mid-1990s Niti Wattuya, a contemporary Thai artist, painted a series of “Golden Rivers” allegorising the value of an unpolluted and pristine environment, which is far more worthy than any materialistic possession. In temple halls, most Buddha images and statues are gilded. This is because of the local age-old tradition in which supplicants apply gold leaf to images and statues as a way of making merit and earning good Karma. We even have a phrase that describes a person with a heart of gold as someone who “applies gold leaf on the back of a Buddha image”, meaning their good deeds go unnoticed. The glitter of gold also appears at auspicious ceremonies such as weddings and housewarmings. As part of a dowry, gold is presented to the bride’s parents. Symbolically, the groom is marrying someone as prized as gold. Gleaming yellow egg yolk-based Thai desserts such as Tong Ake (the first in gold), Tong Yip (Midas touch), Tong Yord (successful courtship), and Foy Tong (speech of gold) are also served on special occasions because of their propitious names and meanings. Thai idioms and expressions are speckled with gold. When time is of the essence, we say “time is like silver and gold.” If someone is verbose, we say “speech is silver, but silence is gold”, in a similar vein to the English proverbial saying “silence is golden.” When we see someone who is wealthy but scruffily dressed, we equate them to “gold covered in rags.” At weddings, an old-fashioned phrase has it that the bride and groom’s families are “becoming the same piece of gold” meaning their fortunes are intertwined. But as much as Thais are fixated by gold, it would never do to refer to a Thai woman as “dok tong” (golden flower). It may sound pretty but her reaction will not be. If you want to know the meaning, ask a Thai friend privately. F EBRUA RY 2015 | 27
S N A P S H OT S
very thai
sniff kiss ROMANTIC, RESPECTFUL OR SIMPLY CUTE, THE HOM KAEM LIFTS THE HEART
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skimos rub noses. Westerners join lips. Starlets airkiss everyone. The French involve first both cheeks, and then the tongue. So how to Thais express amour? They sniff. Politely. A light, quick inhalation, somewhere around the cheek, is the acme of endearment. The hom kaem(sniff kiss) confirms both unconditional love to one’s child and understated paassion between lovers. Parents bestow a reassuringly benevolent hom kaem upon their offspring’s cheek or forehead, a private communion
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995
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whoever might be watching. It also continues into adulthood, as when an adult touchingly receives a hom kaemfrom his mother on, say, collecting her from hospital. Aside from the exalted, innocent hom kaem, what motivateslovers to sniff kiss is another matter. The kissee’s spine tingles, hairs raise, knees weaken. Acquiescence may well result. It’s the Thai way to reach first base. For the person inhaling, any sharp in-breath can wobble the senses, but when infused with ardour, it giddies.
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, ‘Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture’ is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.
bangkok101.com
thailand at random
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CHINESE IMMIGRATION .....
he Chinese have been migrating south to Siam for centuries. Waves of migration, often to escape hardship, have seen the Chinese population in Thailand increase from an estimated 230,000 in 1825 to 792,000 in 1910 to 8 million today (14% of the population). Among the estimated 8 million ethnic Chinese in Thailand, 56% are Teochew, 16% are Hakka, 11% are Hainanese, 7% are Hokkien, and 7% are Cantonese. The other 3% came from a range of other ethnic groups. As the Chinese are highly assimilated into Thai culture through intermarriage, they no longer form a distinct community living in a separate enclave as they do in many cities. An illustrated collection of Thailand trivia, Thailand at Random is filled with anecdotes, statistics, quotes, idioms, cultural explanations, historical asides, facts, folklore and other unusual and useful tidbits. This veritable treasure trove of information on Thailand is arranged, as the title suggests, randomly, so that readers will come to expect the unexpected on each and every page. Designed in a charmingly classic style, and peppered with original illustrations, Thailand at Random is a quirky and irresistible celebration of everything you didn’t know you wanted to know about this diverse and captivating country.
AMERICAN
> Thailand at Random EDM Books | editors Grissarin Chungsiriwat and Nicholas Grossman | B650
still life in moving vehicles
FEVER
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he influence of American culture in Thailand is especially strong among a certain generation that grew up around American GI’s who were here during the Vietnam War era. Many of these Thai baby boomers like to wear Levi’s jeans, listen to songs by the Eagles, drink Coke, and smoke Marlboro cigarettes. Today, my cabby was even wearing a shirt with an American flag patch emblazoned on it. He told me that he once had the opportunity to go and work in the US, but he decided to stay in Thailand. He was afraid he would get homesick, and anyway, he told me that his brother moved to California and can send him anything he wants from the States. bangkok101.com
Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, still life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com). Published by River Books, the spin-offbook, Thai Taxi Talisman, is available at bookstores around town for B995.
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Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
SACRED LOVE
BANGKOKIANS FLOCK TO THE TRIMURTI SHRINE TO JOIN HEARTS
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rung Thep, the Thai name for Bangkok, is most often translated as City of Angels, but a more literal translation is City of Deities. The sobriquet seems especially appropriate in Ratchaprasong, Bangkok’s bestknown shopping area, where elaborate deity shrines stand alongside huge retail malls and luxury hotels. A half dozen shrines here serve a steady stream of devotees who make offerings to the resident divinities in the hope of improving their fortunes or having wishes granted. All six shrines pay homage to gods from the Brahmanist pantheon. Thai Buddhism comfortably embraces Shiva, Brahma, Indra, Vishnu, Ganesh and other Hindu deities as guardians of the Buddhist faith as well as
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divine entities capable of altering one’s luck for the better. While Thais pray to Buddha for better rebirths, they often worship Hindu gods for advancement and good fortune in their present lives. For international visitors, the shrines offer a fascinating glimpse into how Bangkok smoothly blends ancient and modern cityscapes. The Brahma shrine next to the Grand Hyatt Erawan is the most visited, known worldwide for its colourful kae bon (wish granted) dancers, heaped garlands of yellow blossoms, dripping yellow candles and thick clouds of incense. Offerings at the other shrines in the neighbourhood tend to be much the same, with one notable exception. bangkok101.com
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At the Trimurti Shrine in front of CentralWorld, instead of yellow marigolds and yellow candles, worshippers choose to offer red roses, red candles and red Fanta. As in many other cultures, red is associated with affairs of the heart, and it is for love that Thais pay homage to the Trimurti. At any time of day or night – but mostly at night – single young women and the occasional single male worshipper approach the shrine armed with roses, candles and incense. They kneel for several minutes with eyes closed, clasping their hands together as they repeat the mantras inscribed on a plaque in front of the statue. Built in 1989, the Trimurti Shrine consists of not just one but three Hindu deities standing cheek by jowl on a raised platform, sheltered by a dome that is supported by four pillars and adorned with elaborately carved gables on each side. Said to be a latter-day replica of an original Trimurti sculpture that once stood in Ayuthaya, Thailand’s former royal capital, the divine triad consists of Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the destroyer. Cast in bronze and fully gilded, the trio of heads sit atop a slender body adorned with detailed regalia and flaring robes. bangkok101.com
S N A P S H OT S
In Sanskrit, Trimurti literally means Three Forms. Also known as the Great Trinity, the tripartite figure symbolises the union of all gods. In contrast with the original intended Hindu meaning, Trimurti in Thailand has somehow come to be associated with the union of couples. Although originally standing at the Ratchaprasong intersection at the corner of CentralWorld, the shrine was moved to its current position next to a Ganesha Shrine a few years ago when CentralWorld underwent expansion. The worship of elephant-headed Ganesha, the son of Shiva and remover of obstacles, is almost as fervent as that of the Trimuriti. The shrine is most crowded on Thursday evenings around 9.30pm, thought to be the best time to ask for help finding new love or patching up a fading romance, because that’s the time of the week the deities are thought to descend from heaven to hear the prayers of supplicants. Devotees typically offer nine red roses, nine red candles and nine incense sticks. Valentine’s Day is thought to be the most auspicious day of all, so if you’re one of the lovelorn, or if you merely want to see the Trimurti completely enveloped by devotees, pay a visit this February 14th around 9pm. F EBRUA RY 2015 | 31
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Bizarre
Thailand
A long-term resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has compiled some of his strangest trips, weirdest experiences and funniest stories into the nonfiction compilation ‘Bizarre Thailand’ (Marshall Cavendish 2010). More bytes and pixels at www.jimalgie.com.
FLASHPOINTS IN ASIA
As Chinese New Year goes off in a blaze of red and a blitzkrieg of pyrotechnics, Jim Algie extrapolates on an equally colorful, but far more macabre, Chinese festival in this excerpt from the story, “Flashpoints in Asia,” from his recent short-fiction collection, The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand.
The God of Hell reigns over the festivities
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s the gangly photographer walked across the street, the vulture laughed at him. Despite the sweltering heat and laser-like sun, a cold tongue licked his spine. Kendall looked up at the bird, framing the shot and setting the exposure in his mind; it was silent now, almost motionless. Squinting and keeping well back from the grill for fear that an arm without a hand would reach out and grab him, he peered into the shop: it was as black as the eye socket of a skull in there. “Hello... hello.” And now a little louder: “Hello. D’ya need help?” He moved closer so his face was just behind the metal grill, but he still couldn’t see or hear anything. 32 | F EBRUA RY 2015
Thinking he’d try the back door, Kendall walked down the street past an Indian restaurant with an open shop front (where the customers ate curries with their hands from banana leaves), an old wooden Chinese pharmacy that reeked of medicinal herbs, and a little stand where an Indian man wearing a checked cloth around his waist poured tea from one glass held above his head into another glass held at waist level in order to cool it down. He then repeated the process over and over again, never spilling a drop. Kendall stopped to watch him... now here’s the kind of photos I should be taking, in-flight magazine rubbish. But where’s the fun in that? The vendor saw him watching. “Hello, my friend. How many feet of tea do you want? It’s our joke in Malaysia.” bangkok101.com
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This wrathful deity is one of the guardians in hell That was the tax added to the cost of being an expat and a foreign correspondent in Asia (possibly anywhere, he imagined); never knowing for certain if the locals were being sincerely friendly or congenially mercenary. To be polite, Kendall laughed along with him and said, “Cheers, but I’m strictly on a beer diet.” Around the corner were three, ten-foot-tall joss sticks with the heads of red, yellow, blue and lime dragons at the bottom, their tails curling up towards the smoking wicks, which perfumed the air with the sweet scent of sandalwood incense. Behind the joss sticks was a Chinese shrine. Sitting on the altar before some monstrous deity were pigs’ heads, bottles of Guinness beer, trays of sweets, and bowls of rice with chopsticks and spoons beside them. Kendall asked an old Chinese man, who had a lumpy face like rice porridge and eyes that had long since lost their luster for life, about the shrine. The man cast a quick, disapproving gaze over Kendall’s old army clothes and mesh T-shirt. He looked back at the altar. “It’s for the God of Hell. This is Chinese ghost month.” Now Kendall really had to wonder what he’d seen behind that grill. “Aw yeah,” said the photographer in a nasally voice that sounded like a Brit with a bad cold. “I read something about that. At the beginning of the seventh lunar month the gates of the underworld open and the spirits of the dead come back to earth. So these offerings are for the ghosts?” “For the God of Hell and his helpers. Tonight will be offerings for ghosts, and puppet shows and Chinese operas for people and ghosts to enjoy. You can only make offerings for spirits at night because that is when they come.” Kendall thanked him and the man asked him for the time. “Sorry, mate, but I never wear a watch. Nothing sadder than watching the time passing I reckon. That’s why I love photos so much. You can freeze time and save the moment for ever.” bangkok101.com
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These dragon candles are pillars of the spectral community Kendall looked back at the God of Hell. The details and colors rivaled anything he’d seen in the Tibetan scroll paintings he collected: a bouquet of red, pink and yellow flowers crowned a head-dress of fanciful lions and tigers; the deity’s malicious face was dark blue; his eyes were yellow; and a long bloody tongue lolled out of his mouth between orange streaks of flame. This could be the next development in Kendall’s career. No more black-and-white images of soldiers and corpses, earthquakes and crime scenes. With this series of photos he’d try to do something more colorful and mystical, something more artistic that would be exhibited in galleries and published in a book. He was sick of photo editors ruining his pictures by cropping them, or choosing the weakest ones and then running them beside an ad for expensive shoes, like they’d done with his series of AIDS patients on their deathbeds in a Buddhist temple in Thailand. For these new shots he wanted to experiment with a technique called “cross processing.” So he loaded the camera with 200 ASA color slide film and pushed it two stops to 800 ASA. Later, he would develop the rolls as if they were regular print film and the result would be sharp, color-saturated images with high contrasts. As Kendall framed the God of Hell in his viewfinder, an Asian headhunter wearing a necklace of pig’s teeth and holding one of his “trophies” aloft slowly formed in front of the camera’s eye like a black-and-white photo in a tray of developer, hazy at first, but slowly coming into focus. It was the same shot he’d taken in Sumatra, but now it was moving, now the headhunter was alive and glaring at him with the God of Hell’s yellow eyes... bloody hell!
This tale is continued in the novella, “Tsunami,” from The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (Tuttle 2014) by Jim Algie. Stay tuned for more in the next issue. F EBRUA RY 2015 | 33
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listings
Ananta Samakhom Palace Throne Hall
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE THRONE HALL [MAP 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadamnoen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [MAP 4/A3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 0 2216 7368 jimthompsonhouse. com | 9am-5pm | B100/B50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [MAP 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 8185 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm, Daily | B50/B20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION [MAP 8/F8] 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd | 0 2281 1569 | TueSun 9.30am-4pm | B100 34 | F EBRUA RY 2015
Erawan Shrine The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD PALACE [MAP 8/K11] Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 0 2245 4934 | suanpakkad.com | 9am4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
SHRINES ERAWAN SHRINE [MAP 4/G5] Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan BTS Chit Lom | Free Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE [MAP 4/G3] Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | Free A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE [MAP 4/G3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | Free
The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
TEMPLES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [MAP 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | Tha Chang Pier | 0 2222 0094, 0 2623 5500 8.30am-3.30 pm | B500 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.
WAT ARUN [MAP 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd | 0 2465 5640 | watarun.com | 8am-5pm | B100 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.
WAT PO (RECLINING BUDDHA) [MAP 7/D12]
Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd | 0 2226 0369 watpho.com | 8am-5pm | B100 bangkok101.com
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Wat Ratchanatda The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.
WAT MAHATHAT [MAP 7/C8] Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 0 2221 5999 | 9am-5pm | Free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.
WAT RATCHANATDA [MAP 7/K8] Mahachai Rd | 0 2224 8807 | 8.30am-6pm free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.
WAT SAKET [MAP 7/L8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd | 0 2233 4561 7.30am-5.30pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.
Wat Arun sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
WAT TRAIMIT [MAP 6/L3] 661 Charoen Krung Rd | 0 2623 1226 MRT HuaLampong | 8am-5pm | B50/B100 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [MAP 8/L11, 12]
85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng) Ratchaprarop Rd | 0 2245 3008 bangkokdolls.com | Mon-Sat 8am-5pm Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple
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Wat Traimit murals and illustrations from antique books.
BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier 0 2233 7027 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
MADAME TUSSAUDS [MAP 4/C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium 0 2658 0060 | madametussauds.com/ Bangkok | 10am-9pm | B800/B600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe’s famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop
WAT SUTHAT & THE GIANT SWING [MAP 7/H9]
Bamrung Muang Rd | 0 2222 9632 | 9am-9pm Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze bangkok101.com
Wat Suthat & The Giant Swing
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The National Museum stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 0 2653 5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm (App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it’s open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
MUSEUM OF SIAM [MAP 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier | 0 2622 2599 ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | Free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on
Royal Barge Museum elephant-back with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [MAP 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 0 2224 1333 thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm B200 | no photo allowed Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam’s main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [MAP 7/K7]
100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02621 0044 nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-to-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [MAP 7/B4]
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80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 0 2424 0004 | 9am-5pm | B30/ B100 photo/B200 video This collection of ornate royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the
Ancient Siam river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [MAP 1/F6]
296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan 0 2709 1644 | ancientcity.com B500/B250 kids/B1500 private guide in English for two hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing.
THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1/E5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya Nakorn Pathom province | nfat.org 0 2482 2013-15 | Sat-Sun | tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; MonFri: by appointment | Free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, props and costumes. bangkok101.com
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Lumpini Park
PARKS LUMPINI PARK [MAP8/K,L16] Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Rd | 5am-9pm; cycling/skating 10am-3pm | free The biggest and most popular slice of public space in Central Bangkok, Lumpini Park is 142 acres of trees and grass swen together with wide, mendering concrete paths. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians like to take advantage of its relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. A surprising number of animals also like it here – from turtles and giant monitor lizards, to flocks of crows and the occasional stray cat. Activities include taking a Swan-shaped pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin and pumping iron at the outdoor gym, while live concert recitals and film screenings take place here during the cool season.
BENJASIRI PARK [MAP 8/L7] Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22/24 BTS Phrom Phong | 5am-9pm | free Next to the Phrom Phong BTS Skytrain station and Emporium shopping mall, this is a great place to escape the Sukhumvit rat race – amble around lakes, find shade under a tree, or admire modern Thai sculptures.
Benjasiri Park bangkok101.com
RAMA IX Royal Park
RAMA IX ROYAL PARK [MAP 7/K8] Sukhumvit Soi 103, behind Seri Center, Pravet | 0 2328 1972 | 5.30pm-7pm | B10 Bangkok’s biggest park spans 200-acres and features a small museum dedicated to the King, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with soothing water features.
JATUJAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS [MAP8/M, N1, 2]
820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao 0 2272 4358 | 5am-6.30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some much-needed respite. Jatujak Park hosts a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a botanical garden.
SUAN ROD FAI PARK [MAP8/M, N1] Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd, BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park | 02-537-9221 5am-9pm | free Also just north of JJ market, this huge park has lots of open space and wild trees, plus a lotus pond, playground, basketball and tennis courts, and a butterfly garden (see opposite). Young locals flock here on weekends to hire a bike and cycle along its wide paths, and with prices for rental only B20 we highly recommend you copy them.
ROSE GARDEN RIVERSIDE (SUAN SAMPRAM) [MAP1/D5]
Jatujak & Queen Sirikit Park
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Suan Rod Fai 32 Phet Kasem Rd, Yai-Cha, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom Province | 0 3432 2544 | rosegardenriverside.com 10am-4pm Garden B 50, Show B 500 Take an hour’s drive out from the city and explore this 70-acre property located beside the Ta Chine River, which includes a hotel resort, golf court, spa organic farm and botanical gardens. The cultural shows here are as popular as the lush gardens.
SARANROM PARK [MAP7/E11] Intersection of Rachini / Charoen Krung Rd | Phra Nakhon | 5am-8pm | free This ‘green belt’ within the city is located opposite the Grand Palace, built in 1866 during the reign of Rama IV as a royal garden of the Saranrom Royal Palace. It is now a botanical garden and public park, featuring a glass house, and royal bugle pavilion.
BANG KRA CHAO [MAP 1/E5] Bang Krachao, Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakarn | 6am-8pm | free It’s hard to believe that this oasis of lush orchards and mangroves is just opposite the concrete jungle of Klong Toey. Included within it is the 200-rai Suan Klang Central Park with a large pond where you can rent paddle boats for B30. Or rent cycles for the same rate and ride a bike around the park then head down t the Bang am Pueng Floting Market.
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DISCOVER YOUR MUSE AND LET YOUR CREATIVITY SHINE AT THE SECOND TROPICAL WRITERS’ WORKSHOP ON IDYLLIC KOH SAMUI THIS MARCH 38 | F EBRUA RY 2015
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TROPICAL WRITERS’ WORKSHOP
KOH SAMUI F
ollowing a successful November 2014 launch on Koh Phangan, the Tropical Writers’ Workshop returns – this time on stunning Koh Samui. Taking place from March 1-15 at Al’s Resort on Chaweng’s beachfront, the 2015 workshop will teach budding scribes the fundamentals of writing well, including the practical skills needed to excel in writing for guidebooks, newspapers and magazines, and travel websites and blogs. Students will also learn how to create a portfolio, how to market themselves, and build an online presence through social media. The courses – by the end of which each student will be a published writer – are taught by instructors who are experts in their field, including Joe Cummings, famed travel writer (and currently the Editor-at-Large for Bangkok 101); Carl Heaton, founder of Web Courses Bangkok and web consultant for the United Nations; and social media innovator Adam Sharpe, former digital strategy coordinator for MTV EXIT. Writing skills and theory will be taught by journalist, author and editor Kaila Krayewski, social media content writer for the Shangri-La Hotel Group, and founder of Archipelago Communications on Koh Phangan. Course prices start at B35000 for a shared room, with private rooms available for B50000, inclusive of 14 nights’ accommodation at Al’s Resort, full tuition, website domain and hosting, and much more. Individual courses can be purchased as well. Visit tropicalwritersworkshop.com for further information and bookings.
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February 12 – 14 Trang Underwater Wedding Festival Having earned the Guinness World Record for being ‘The Largest Underwater Wedding Ceremony,’ this annual event attracts couples from across the planet to the beautiful blue waters off Koh Kradan. The ceremony includes Buddhist rituals and Thai wedding traditions, and all couples receive a wedding certificate formally – and miraculously – signed underwater. Beyond offering a unique way to tie the knot, the event also promotes the spectacular natural wonders and marine resources of Trang.
February 13 – 22 Chainat Straw -bird Festival In Chainat, a little known province in the central plains, locals have taken to fashioning hay, the by-product of rice cultivation, into massive bird-shaped stacks known as hoon fang. Staged in front of the provincial town’s city hall, this annual festival offers visitors the chance to admire outlandish handiwork and catch straw-bird making contests, village handicraft competitions, and light and sound shows – not to mention shop for a straw-bird of their own.
February 13 – 15 Ban Chiang World Heritage Festival Udon Thani’s Ban Chiang, an archeological site where red pottery shards discovered in the 1960s turned out to be remnants of Asia’s oldest Bronze Age settlement, is one of Northeast Thailand’s shining attractions. Cultural performances from Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam, sales of local produce, and a light and sound show all feature in this celebration of the treasured UNESCO World Heritage site.
February 14 Sud Tae Ceremony (Elephant Back Wedding) Like Trang in the South, Surin also celebrates the month of love with an exotic wedding ceremony. Called Sud Tae, this special wedding is held in a rather unusual setting – the back of an elephant. In fact, the marriage certification is signed and authorized on the noble beast. Locals say that this way of getting married ensures good fortune and prosperity for years to come. If nothing else, it gives you a story to tell your kids. For more information, please contact the TAT Surin office at 0 4451 4447.
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February 14 – 22 King Narai Festival One of the great rulers of Ayutthaya, King Narai believed in fostering healthy international relations. So what better way to honour his memory than with a tourist-friendly tribute around the ruins of Phra Narai Ratchanivet, the palace he built in Lopburi? Visitors can enjoy a light and sound show, a traditional open-air market, a song contest held by village elders, demonstrations of folk games and Thai boxing, cultural performances by the Lopburi Fine Arts College, and a fashion show featuring traditional Thai costumes.
February 26 – 28 Old Phuket Festival Peranakan culture in Phuket Town was formed over centuries of mingling between Hokkien Chinese immigrants, Thai nationals, Malays, and British expatriates. To celebrate the town’s rich history, the Old Phuket Foundation sponsors the annual Old Phuket Festival. Thalang Road and Soi Romanee are closed to vehicular traffic, becoming pedestrian-only for the week-long event, which features Peranakan food and costumes, cultural shows, Chinese opera performances, and colourful parades.
February 26 – March 1 Honda LPGA Thailand 2015 The LPGA Tour returns to the Siam Country Club in Pattaya. Some of the world’s greatest female golfers will fly to the Land of Smiles for the Honda LPGA Thailand, with the winner taking home $1.5 million. The tournament is reserved for professional female players only, but spectators are invited to watch these masters in action. Tickets are available at ThaiTicket Major for B300-B800. For more information about participants and programmes, please visit lpgathailand.com.
Until February 28 Floral Festival The annual Floral Festival returns to Ratchaphruek Royal Park, about 20 kilometers southwest of Chiang Mai. The festival will feature exhibitions of flower arrangements, decorative plants, and garden landscaping. Flora fanatics will enjoy wandering row after row of roses, orchids, carnations, lilies, and China asters, as well as many of the exhibits that are still in place from the Royal Flora expo of 2007. Open daily from 8.00am to 8.00pm throughout February.
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Northern Soul Ancient murals, friendly ethnic minorities, and an overriding sense of rural solitude keep Nan province a seductive secret, says MARCO FERRARESE
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take the next side lane, and follow the signage. Roughly five minutes later, the car is barrelling down a narrow road flanked by bottle-green rice paddies with misty, undulating mountains on the horizon. It doesn’t take long before I’m lost again. But just when I start to feel desperation sink in, the first signage I’ve seen for miles – in the familiar blue colour of a tourist signpost – suddenly appears. Only it’s written in Thai. I drive on anyway, passing a series of gated homes that seem to be part of a relatively modern neighbourhood. Soon it becomes clear that Thai Lue ‘village’ is this row of houses. Eventually, the road leads to a hidden parking lot outside one of Nan’s tourist attractions, the small Wat Nong Bua. The distinguishing features of Nan’s temples are their elaborate and colourful murals, paintings that reveal key narratives from the late 19th century, like the secret histories of locals, clad in black berets, who mingled with rifle-toting colonists. Only the traditional demon-warrior figures, with their distinct pointed heads, suggest that Nan is in Thailand rather than a neighbouring country, where the days of colonialism are better documented.
Photographs by Kit Yeng Chan and Marco Ferrarese
n old farmer in a straw hat emerges from a paddy. Behind him trails a family of mud-caked water buffaloes. The man and his cattle lumber down the country road, passing the sedan – an appropriately-named Toyota Lanna – that I’ve parked on the shoulder. In the rear-view mirror, I spot a woman carrying a child wrapped in a blanket tied behind her back. A man follows her on a motorbike, chugging along as if in slow-motion. When they draw near, I roll down the window and ask, “Excuse me, is this the way to Thai Lue village?” The woman says nothing in response, eyeing the car as if it were some kind of spacecraft. Her baby, on the contrary, smiles winningly. To get around the secluded northern province of Nan, I’m equipped with a simple map. Given my inability to communicate in Thai, let alone in the vernacular spoken here, the map becomes like a play board for a game of Risk, with our fingers like plastic pieces tentatively jabbing at parts unknown. The mother finally understands that I’m looking for the Thai Lue village. She explains, with much gesticulating, that I must return to the main road, turn left,
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As I’m staring up at the walls, mesmerized by the murals, good luck brings a small group of folk musicians to the entrance of the temple. To them, this is just a quiet place to sit down and practice. For me, it’s a unique opportunity to listen to previously unknown sounds. The music begins, swaying scales of high pitched notes produced by expert fingers pressing on the fat strings of a wooden ruan, a traditional Chinese guitar. For a moment, it feels as though I’ve been transported to another place and time. There’s a reason for that. Nan’s roots run through China’s Yunnan province – in particular, the fertile rice-growing region, Sipsongbanna – rather than the canals of Krung Thep. Isolated for centuries, Nan only began to prosper when it became a mid-journey rest stop between Chiang Mai and Chiang Thong (modern-day Luang Prabang) under the Kingdom of Lanna. But after being ransacked by Burmese marauders, the province was practically deserted until the end of the 18th century. Today, the remoteness of those defining eras endures, from the vast, bucolic surroundings to the melancholy movements of Wat Nong Bua’s old guitarist. After leaving the temple, I drive to Tha Wang Pha, a series of low, anonymous buildings about 40 kilometres north of the centre of town. There, a covered market gets the attention of my rumbling stomach. Its aisles are clean and populated by curious women who must not see many foreigners, because they start advertising the delicacies they have to offer as if I’m their very first customer. It’s hard to share their excitement for live toads stuffed in see-through plastic bags, or fat larvae in decaying pieces of honeycomb, but the smiling women insist it’s all mouthwatering, if only I’d be daring enough to try. Before returning to the city, I make one last stop at the Nan Riverside Art Gallery along the highway. This treasure trove of contemporary Northern Thai art has permanent exhibits set in a pavilion that faces a bend in the Nan River. The walls are adorned with a plethora of vibrant paintings, 4 4 | F EBRUA RY 2015
and the floor space is haunted by ghostly sculptures made of clay, plastic, and iron. Despite the absence of other visitors, the Riverside Art Gallery shows that the area has more to offer than old folk tales. As I roll into town, it’s hard to imagine the city at the height of its splendour, when it was a Lanna hub. The maze of narrow, busy streets doesn’t leave much to the imagination. And the bland, compact downtown, a setting punctuated by several temples, is not necessarily a traveller’s idea of a breath of fresh air; however, much of Nan’s charm lives in its religious imagery, and the ‘holy trinity’ of Wat Phumin, Wat Chang Kham, and Wat Mingmuang is indeed very special. Built as if it were riding on top of two giant nagas, Wat Phumin is most indicative of the art and architecture of the Thai Lue. Groups of pale-faced Europeans adorn the walls here, too, representing the French rulers of Indochina, to whom Nan valley’s eastern basin was yielded at the end of the 19th century. Looking closely at the clumsy, moustachioed figures on the temple walls, it’s fairly easy to work out the Thai Lue opinion of its French ‘invaders.’ Among these figures is the famed ‘Poo Marn Yar Marn,’ or ‘Whispering of Love’ mural, which I’d been searching for from the start. It depicts a bare-chested, tattooed Thai Lue man murmuring a love spell in the ear of an enchanting local beauty. This confession of love is reproduced on all the tourist trinkets that are sold outside the temple, maybe as a suggestion to keep a visit to Nan a secret. When dusk comes, it veils the town in a blue-black twilight spangled with blazing stars. Under cover of darkness, I roam the empty streets. Occasionally, a halfcrescent moon peeps out from behind a cloud to throw its pale light on the surroundings. Sidling past Wat Phumin’s closed gate, with the tacit agreement to keep its precious love whisper protected inside, I can’t help but feel nature and the elements are working in concert to keep this northern delight hush-hush. bangkok101.com
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In the highest sanctuary of Lingyin Si temple, worshippers pay respect to giant images.
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PARADISE FOUND? An old Chinese saying calls Hangzhou an earthly paradise, but what do the locals think today? WORDS AND PICTURES BY KEITH MUNDY
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e are all seeking paradise, somehow, somewhere. I’d found it, fleetingly, a few times, and lost it. Then I read an old Chinese saying: “In heaven there is paradise, and on earth there are Suzhou and Hangzhou.” Wow, two paradises in one country – lucky China! This had to be checked out. First the geography: I sussed they both lie just inland from Shanghai, in the central seaboard region. Next the history: it was a mixed bag, with Hangzhou emerging pre-eminent. Founded at least as far back as the 3rd century BC, Hangzhou prospered greatly after connection to the Grand Canal to Beijing in 610 AD. Then in the 12th century, the
Lakeview Pavilion teahouse provides a fine rest-stop or viewing place by the West Lake. bangkok101.com
Song dynasty court moved there and Hangzhou became a city of imperial splendour, as well as a great trading port. Marco Polo fetched up there in its 13th century heyday and was ecstatic, calling it “the City of Heaven, the most beautiful and magnificent in the world” – and he came from Venice, mark you, and knew a thing or two about magnificence. But greatness ended in the civil wars of 1861-63, which reduced almost the entire city to ashes, led to the deaths of over half a million citizens through disease, starvation and battle, and terminated Hangzhou’s significance as a commercial and trading centre. So there it was, 1200 years of grandeur and prosperity, then a hundred years of destruction and revolution.
The classic beauty of Lingyin Si temple, which climbs up a steep forested hillside. F EBRUA RY 2015 | 47
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At the downtown lakeshore, ornate boats offer cruises on the West Lake.
In a lakeside park, a commemoration of old dynastic times, when Hangzhou was prominent. Can’t be much left, I mused – but then I read that, for today’s Chinese, there are two supreme sights: Guilin, of the mystical limestone outcrops, and Hangzhou, of the beguiling West Lake. That settled it: I packed my portable paradise-meter and flew off to Hangzhou.
“HANGZHOU IS VERY BEAUTIFUL, IT’S AMAZING TO HAVE SOMETHING LIKE THE WEST LAKE RIGHT NEXT TO THE CITY. BUT PARADISE, REALLY, IS TO BE HAPPY IN YOURSELF, IN YOUR MIND”. The first signs are mind-boggling: a huge river with no less than three mighty suspension bridges, and a city centre of soaring high rises and pulsating boulevards, all brand new. But this is par for the amazing new China, the world’s biggest and fastest makeover-in-progress. So to Xi Hu, the West Lake. Sure enough, there on the western edge of downtown is a lake of classic beauty, a three-kilometre wide body of placid green water, bounded by willow-shaded promenades, and framed with a backdrop of mountains. A vendor sidles up and presses a scenic map on me, five yuan, done. Prettily marked on the map, what delights are in store! Viewing Fish at Flower Harbour, Three Pools 4 8 | F EBRUA RY 2015
“The Long Bridge Which Is Not Long” steps across the West Lake’s waters. Mirroring the Moon, Kingdom of the Joyful Fish, Orioles Singing in Ripples of Willows, and Sunset Glow Over Lei Hill. Stick around a while and you catch Autumn Moon on Calm Lake and Melting Snow at Broken Bridge. Poetically penned by perhaps the world’s first tourist board, the nomenclature is heaven alone, a paradise of four-character names, so what must the experience be like? I set off on a clockwise tour. The paradise meter is immediately pleased by the new stone-built promenade along the downtown lakeshore, but even more so-ping!-by the traditional teahouse in a fine old curved-roof pavilion. A causeway stretches through the lake, crossing humpback bridges, passing profusions of giant lotus leaves which float upon the water. Paths wind through gardens featuring delicate-leaved trees of every shape and shade, and natural stone ‘sculptures’ formed by nature’s wild imagination. Traditional wooden teahouses provide frequent rest stops, offering China’s finest green tea, Longjing, or Dragon Well, which grows just south of Xi Hu. Classic Chinese gardens ring the lake in an extraordinary concentration, enough to grace a dozen cities, all in one place. Revealing the beauty of each season, the scenic map has photos showing the mantle of snow in winter, the cherry blossoms in spring, the golden sunsets of summer, the russet leaves of autumn. For the Chinese, this is the ideal landscape, the perfect partnership of man’s creation and nature’s bounty. But is it paradise? The trippers look happy, some dreamily so, perhaps just married – this being a major Chinese honeymoon destination – but I suspect that the citizens might be more enamoured of their shiny new malls, halls bangkok101.com
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Laughing Buddha carved in the limestone cliff of “The Peak That Flew From Afar” in about 1000 AD. and stadiums, the smart restaurants and chic boutiques. Time for some vox pop. Armed with the old saying written in Chinese characters, I set off to quiz the populace. Caroline Chen is a 20-year-old native working in a spiffy cafe in the new upmarket development which lies on the lake’s eastern side next to downtown. “Hangzhou is very beautiful, it’s amazing to have something like the West Lake right next to the city”, she enthuses. “But paradise, really, is to be happy in yourself, in your mind”. So young, so wise! At an internet cafe of the mega-size that China specialises in, hundreds of monitors in dozens of rows, a sparky young man with spiky hair says, “It’s here. When I play computer games here, I’m in heaven.” He’s not the only one, by the look of it. There’s a couple of hundred young gamers in this cyber cave, jigging about in their seats, shouting with glee to each other. Not my cup of tea, though. Out on the street, an owlish man comes trundling up on his antique tricycle. “Good afternoon, may I talk to you?” Disabled since childhood, he proffers a card inscribed, “Learn English at Sir Peter”. Now this man will have an interesting take on paradise. Sir Peter, or Si Xiaohang as his parents know him, recognizes the saying immediately, like all Hangzhou people. “For me, paradise is in the northwest corner of the lake, around Shangrila”. For a moment, my meter goes berserk. “The Shangrila Hotel, you know?” Meter relaxes. “The gardens there are classic, and peaceful, because the crowds don’t go there”. And it’s true, the lotus-laced ponds and the angular bridges, the elegant trees and exotic stones at the garden called the Lotus bangkok101.com
in the Breeze at Crooked Courtyard are the best of the West Lake. I wouldn’t say paradise, personally, but they are a very fine representation of the Chinese genius for poetic landscape. And so is the Long Bridge That Is Not Long, which is a path that zigzags across the lake’s southern shore, past a gazebo where old folks sit enjoying summer sunsets, contemplatively fanning themselves. At this point, where a stream used to flow out of the lake, 820 years ago – so the story goes – a young couple threw themselves in the water and immediately became lotus flowers. With the passage of time, the lake silted up and the bridge got shorter, and so it became one of the Three Unusualnesses of Xi Hu. The other two? Don’t ask me. Just one is a fine thing, anyway. But for drama, the most impressive sight is undoubtedly the vast monastic complex of Lingyin Si, the Temple of Inspired Seclusion, or Temple of the Soul’s Retreat, take your pick of two fine translations. Amid a forest of fir, broadleaf and bamboo, a succession of huge curved-roof halls housing enormous Buddhas climbs up a hillside in the mountains west of the lake. At the foot, hundreds of Buddha images are carved in a cliff face, reached by precipitous rock-cut paths. Wonderful to experience, but hardly seclusion or retreat, since half the population of China seems to be buzzing about the place. Back in the hotel with all the research done, I sink into the soft yet supportive bedding, and reflect that, really, a good peaceful sleep is hard to beat for a heavenly experience. And so, farewell Hangzhou. I loved you well, but Suzhou calls. Paradise, this is your last chance! F EBRUA RY 2015 | 49
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UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL A dual exhibition by Amy Diener and Kimberlynn Marie at Mahanaga Thai fusion restaurant, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 29, presents the colours of Thailand and close-ups of nature. The artists, both art teachers at an international school in Bangkok, take their inspiration from the vivid hues and natural splendors of the capital and its environs. New York native Diener says her original motivation to live in Thailand was sparked by a desire to pursue meditation, a desire that grew into a wider love for life in Bangkok. “As an artist, the first thing I noticed when I arrived here was all the beautiful, bright colours – golden temples, hot pink taxis, lime green motorcycles, cyan blue malls, magenta apartments, forest green leaves, and violet flowers. My artwork investigates how the use of vibrant colour and brushwork can affect your present mood in a positive way. I specialize in commissioned portrait paintings, depicting the essence of the person. However, I also paint subjects such as animals, flowers, landscapes, fantastical architecture, and pure abstraction using these vivid colours and large bold brushstrokes.” Describing herself as primarily a photographer, Marie also produces paintings, drawings, lithograph and screen prints, and ceramics. She says, “I capture the beauty surrounding us by taking photographs of simple everyday moments in nature. I use photography because it allows me to present wonderful but often overlooked sights that exists in a world that many consider mundane. Through a zoomed in view a new bazaar landscape is created, allowing the viewer’s perception to re-engage, resulting in a renewed appreciation.” Colours of Thailand and Close-ups of Nature runs at Mahanga until February 22. Visit facebook.com/ events/750048548424522/ for more information.
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exhibitions
REPRESENTING LOCALITIES: MEMORY AND EXPERIENCE
THAVIBU GALLERY [MAP 5/D5] F4, Jewelry Trade Center, Suite 433, 919/1 Silom Rd | 0 2266 5454 | Mon-Sat 11am-7pm | thavibu.com l BTS Surasak
February 21 – March 21 In a new series of work, the rising-star sculptor Rattana Salee continues her dialogue with the city she lives in, though shifting the focus from Bangkok’s aggressive expansion via claustrophobic concrete blocks to thought-provoking representation of local architectures and domestic objects which hold personal memories. The painter Therdkiat Wangwatcharakul sets out in this series as a flaneur walking the streets of Bangkok only to find stray dogs, old vehicles and pedestrians —the experience not available to him when traveling with his car.
MAN’S RELIGION
KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY [MAP 5/E5] 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 0 2234 6700 | Tue-Sun 11am-7pm kathmandu-bkk.com l BTS Chong Nonsi
Until February 28 Deliberately unarousing, surreal, obscure, Nipon Intarit’s monochrome nudes are different. His models of both sexes lack the preconceived notion of standardised perfection. They are posed to create enigmas that aggressively question the imbalance of power between the sexes in a society founded upon Thai-style Theravada Buddhism, whose cultural framework enshrines male superiority.
FLOTSAM & JETSAM
ROTUNDA GALLERY & GARDEN GALLERY [MAP 5/F4] Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd | 0 2233 1731 | Tue-Sun 9.30am-5pm | neilsonhayslibrary.com | BTS Sala Daeng
Until February 28 Deborah Coffey continues to expand on a 30-year career of art practice. In this exhibition, she explores themes of what might remain when a personal life accompanied by its familiar possessions suddenly disappears in a natural disaster. What remains in the wake of these devastating events are the markers and fragments now singularly left behind, uncompromised and ghostly. As a mixed media artist, Coffey incorporates and transforms real objects in her work, mingled with her personal vision and interpretation of the emotional content that the objects have now acquired. 52 | F EBRUA RY 2015
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exhibitions
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WARLORDS
EAT ME [MAP 5/J6] Phi Phat Soi 2, Convent Rd | 0 2238 0931 | 3pm-1am eatmerestaurant.com l BTS Sala Daeng
Until February 28 Eat Me Restaurant is very pleased to announce an exhibition of portraits of professional Muay Thai fighters, by the Australianborn artist Troy Schooneman, who has been based in Thailand for over a decade. ‘Warlords’ most immediately distinguishes itself with the fact that these fighters are émigrés to Thailand. The appearances and poses of the men in Schooneman’s photographs both challenge and extend local views of the sport and the forms of masculinity that usually symbolize this artful yet brutal sport.
KUROSAKI AKIRA’ PRINTS
ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd (Km 10.5) | 0 2422 2092 Tue-Sat 10.30am- 7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | ardelgallery.com
Until March 8 With an illustrious career stretching over 40 years, Japanese printmaker Kurosaki Akira has mastered the traditional woodblock genre of ukiyo-e, which was popular from the 17th century on, adapting it with more modern images including geometric abstractions and personal interpretations of the world. He presents three series at Ardel, with the Forbidden Zone reflecting the melancholy of the 2011 Tsunami.
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feature
The Sizzling Art of Six
The tropical cultural creativity of Brazil and Thailand combines at HOF Art Space showing BY STEVEN PETTIFOR
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feature
I
n recent years, the Thai art scene has broadened its horizons. More and more exhibitions have incorporated the work of international artists, a trend that’s enabled greater collaborative opportunities between Thai and foreign artists and created links to other scenes. It has also given viewers greater exposure to the differing – and comparative – interests and concerns of certain nationalities and regions. A good example of this cross-border cooperation is the Tropikos exhibition currently running at HOF Art Space. Under the guidance of HOF’s resident curator, Linjie Zhou, Tropikos showcases collaborations between three Brazilian and three Thai artists. It’s an exploration of how the geographic proximity of Thailand and Brazil to the equator, and the resulting tropical climate, has shaped their similar artistic dispositions and philosophical outlooks. It looks at how common environmental conditioning might propel artistic production on an aesthetic and conceptual level. Tropikos began when Zhou was introduced by a mutual friend to the three Brazilian artists, André Mendes, Fernando Franciosi, and Juan Parada. Based in the southern city of Curitiba, the trio had worked together for a number of years and were keen to forge new exchanges with countries that are on a creative and cultural trajectory parallel to their own. Zhou then sought out three Thai artists she thought would complement the work of the Brazilians, eventually choosing Chalit Nakpawan, Torlarp Larpjaroensook, and Jackkrit Anatakul. This approach sees André Mendes’ boldly coloured abstract paintings and site-specific installations matched with Jackkrit Anatakul’s whimsical, illustrative compositions; the organic ceramic and fiberglass forms of Juan Parada linked with painter Chalit Nakpawan’s brightly coloured semi-abstractions, which centre on the elemental forces in nature; and the alignment of Fernando Franciosi and Torlarp Larpjaroensook’s works, which are based on a more conceptual path – the Brazilian appropriating and re-contextualizing ready-made toys and fabrics, while Chiang Mai-based Larpjaroensook exposes his canvases to the elements to mold topographic compositions. Commenting on the Tropikos exhibition, Zhou says, “For the past several years I’ve been seeking ways to bring together Asian and South American artists. I find it interesting how little they know of each other, but how often their work portrays a similar attitude and world bangkok101.com
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outlook. Particularly in the instance of Brazil and Thailand: both are transforming from village societies to big cities. “I’d been trying to search for ways to encourage Brazilian artists to come and show in Thailand,” she continues, “and then I was introduced to Juan, Fernando, and Andre. Their design principles, natural elements, and vibrant productions translate well into the chaotic beauty that is Bangkok. “Having them exhibit here will help promote a mutual awareness of the stunning similarities between Thailand and Brazil. The fact that the two groups of artists are based on the opposite side of the world makes it difficult for them to share a cultural bond, but with both countries continuing to develop and modern technology closing the gap, they are becoming more aware of their sister cultures. “All six artists represent a new movement: a shift from an external attraction to Europe and the USA to the attraction of a tropical twin. The project is exactly what HOF Art is looking to promote – new international connections that help to bring Thai art to the globalized world and an increased local awareness of other international art cultures.”
TROPIKOS EXHIBITION UNTIL FEBRUARY 24 HOF ART SPACE W District, 1599/288-290 Sukhumvit Rd 08 7438 3681, 08 9926 2196 I 10am-7pm I BTS Prakhanong
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cheat notes
BURMA IN THE SHADOW OF EMPIRE
t only took half a century, but Burma (also known as Myanmar) is finally making its troubled journey from military dictatorship to one of Asia’s newest democracies and most popular tourist destinations. Andrew Marshall’s classic travel book, The Trouser People, now reprinted by local publisher River Books, is an offbeat tribute to a little-known land of startling human diversity. Marshall, a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist for Reuters, was inspired by a set of diaries he discovered in London’s British Library. They belonged to Sir George Scott, a forgotten Victorian adventurer who hacked, bullied and charmed his way through Burma’s uncharted jungles to establish British colonial rule. Born in Scotland in 1851, Scott was a die-hard imperialist with a fondness for gargantuan pith helmets and a bluffness of expression that bordered on the Pythonesque. “Stepped on something soft and wobbly,” he records in his diary one dark night. “Struck a match, found it was a dead Chinaman.” But, as Marshall discovers by retracing the explorer’s footsteps, Scott was also a writer and photographer of rare sensibility who spent a lifetime documenting the colourful ethnic peoples who still occupy Burma’s rugged hinterlands. Scott not only mapped the lawless frontiers of this “geographical nowhere,” but also widened the imperial goalposts in another way. He introduced football to Burma, where today it is a national obsession. Part travelogue, part reportage, Marshall’s travels take 56 | F EBRUA RY 2015
him from the moldering colonial splendour of Rangoon to the fabled royal capital of Mandalay, then up into the remote tribal highlands where Scott had his greatest adventures and closest shaves. Along the way, the author discovers a hermit nation whose soldiers, like the British colonialists before them, are nicknamed “the trouser people” by the country’s sarong-wearing civilians. He encounters the bewitching “giraffe women” and the former headhunters of the Wild Wa – today Asia’s largest narcotrafficking syndicate. The Trouser People is an intrepid and often hilarious journey through Britain’s lost heritage and a powerful expose of Burma’s modern tragedy. This fully revised edition includes a gripping eyewitness account of the Saffron Revolution, the 2007 democratic uprising led by Buddhist monks. Published by River Books and priced at B450, The Trouser People is available on Kindle and at all good local bookstores. bangkok101.com
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art & culture photofeature
OLD SIAM ON ---------------------A GLASS PLATE
HM King Mongkut in the uniform of a French Field Marshall King Mongkut arrives at Wat Pho to preside over the annual Kathin Luang ceremony
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fascinating collection of images taken by legendary Scottish photographer John Thomson while on a visit to Siam in 1865 is currently on display at the National Gallery on Chao Fah Road in Bangkok’s Phra Nakorn area.
Edinburgh-born Thomson, an early pioneer of photojournalism, travelled extensively in the Far East on a number of visits during 1864-1872. In addition to his sojourn in Bangkok he spent time in Singapore, Ceylon (Sri Lanka), Malaya (Malaysian Peninsula), Sumatra, China, Formosa (Taiwan), and Cambodia (he is thought to be the first person to photograph Angkor Wat). While in Siam, Thomson took a series of photographs of the ruler, King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his senior courtiers and government officials. He also travelled to rural areas to document the lives of ordinary Thais. At the time cameras were large and heavy and photographic images were exposed on glass negatives. This had to be done in complete darkness, on location, in a portable darkroom tent. Hence Thomson travelled with a large number of cumbersome crates, fragile negative plates and highly flammable and poisonous chemicals. Given that his journeys took him through difficult terrain and insect-infested jungles, sometimes to regions where a white man had not been seen before, it is all the more remarkable that he was able to make photographs of such beauty and sensitivity. A fellow of The Royal Geographical Society, in 1881 Thomson was appointed photographer to the British royal family by Queen Victoria. He died in 1921 aged 84.
“Siam: Through the Lens of John Thomson” marks 150 years since the photographer’s visit to the land of
Smiles. It runs at the National Gallery until February 28 (admission free). Featuring 60 historically important images – expertly preserved by the Wellcome Library in London – this is the first time Thomson’s photographs of Siam have been shown together.
One of the daughters of Prince Alongkot Kitpreecha A rare white elephant belonging to King Mongkut outside the Grand Palace
The verandah in front of the entrance to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha
HRH Crown Prince Chulalongkorn (later King Rama V) before his tonsurate ceremony
Thomson on the other side of the camera for a change
Royal courtier HSH Prince Rachothai (Mom Rajawongse Kratai Issarangkul)
Portrait of an unknown Siamese boy
King Mongkut receives HRH Crown Prince Chulalongkorn at his tonsurate ceremony (upper left) A view of the river looking east taken from the prang of Wat Arun (lower left) Looking across the Chao Phraya River to Wat Kalayanamitr in Thonburi
MURGH MALAI KEBAB AT CHARCOAL TANDOOR GRILL & MIXOLOGY P76
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AROY MANGO TREE ON THE RIVER
Thai restaurant operator, cultural ambassador and culinary innovator Mango Tree Worldwide has announced an ambitious programme of expansion that will increase its branded restaurants and cafes to 100 outlets around the world by the end of this year. One of the latest outlets, Mango Tree on the River, opened on the banks of the Chao Phraya last month. Located at the ultra-new upmarket Yodpiman River Walk development in historic Krung Thonburi district, the restaurant offers a unique local dining experience based on excellently worked traditional and Thai fusion cuisine. Visit it at the Unit D5-101, ground floor, Yodpiman River Walk.
NEW FLAVOURS@CRE^PES & CO.
To mark the new year, Crêpes & Co. has introduced a new menu that includes 7 new crêpe flavours – 3 savoury and 4 sweet. For savoury, choose between a traditional French galette with buckwheat flour and the C&C original galette, which has become a Bangkok favourite over the last 18 years. For something truly unique, try the new Crêpe Caesar, a Parmesan-crusted crêpe filled with romaine lettuce, chicken and bacon and drizzled with Caesar dressing. For the sweet toothed there are new chocolate, strawberry and Japanese matcha green tea flavoured crêpes.
AUSSIE AUSSIE AUSSIE…
MoMo Café at Marriott Executive Apartments, Sathorn is holding an Australian food promotion throughout February. Irresistible menu items include a mandarin salad (crisp lettuce and orange with chicken and an olive dressing), shrimp linguine pasta, Australian strip loin steak, seared Nile perch, and slow cooked lamb shank. Also available are wonderful desserts including Pavlova (a sweet pillow of meringue topped with sliced fresh fruits), and apple crumble. Enjoy these Australian culinary highlights daily from 6am-10.30pm at MoMo Café until February 28.
MAJESTIC OYSTERS
Throughout the month of February, talk-of-the-town rooftop restaurant and bar Park Society at Sofitel So celebrates living the high-life with a real treat for oyster lovers. Using only the finest and freshest oysters, Park Society’s Chef de Cuisine, Chef Angela Brown, serves up an exquisite 5-course set menu (B3500++ per person) including a veloute of potato and leek with poached oyster and champagne foam, and roasted beef Angus tenderloin with smoked bacon oyster Kilpatrick. Advance reservations are highly recommended. Email H6835-FB5@Sofitel.com or call 0 2624 0000.
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Valentine’s Day Meal Deals
Valentine’s Day is just around the corner and to celebrate this sweetest of occasions many of Bangkok’s hotels and restaurants are offering romantic dining options especially for lovebirds. Whether you are declaring your love, reaffirming your relationship, or maybe planning to pop the big question, Banyan Tree has an awardwining venue for you. Take your love to new heights at Vertigo with a 5-course dinner and a glass of chilled champagne for B9000++ per couple. A love-inspired menu priced at B4200++ per couple also awaits at Saffron, while Romsai offers a lavish Valentine’s Day buffet costing B1800++ per person. Alternatively, for just B4888 per couple, you can enjoy a romantic 5-course dinner cruise on the Chao Phraya River aboard the hotel’s Apsara craft. A celebration of love is also taking place at four of the restaurants at Centara Grand, Central Plaza Ladprao. Blue Sky has a Valentine’s Day set menu at B5999++ per couple, including a glass of Prosecco, and Don Giovanni invites you to enjoy the delights of a Festa dell’amore set dinner at B4999++ per couple, including a glass of Prosecco. Meanwhile, Chef Iwata at Hagi has lovingly put together a special set menu priced at B1999++ per person, while the international buffet at Chatuchak Café, priced at B1500++ per person, gets underway with a cocktail. Two unforgettable Valentine’s Day dinners are offered at Centara Grand at CentralWorld. Celebrate the day of love at Red Sky with a special 6-course menu (B14555++ per couple) and complimentary a glass of MUMM Champagne. Alternatively, impress your special one with a ‘Seafood on Ice’ themed buffet at Fifty Five Restaurant (priced at B8555++ per person, including free flow Lombard champagne). The buffet includes lobsters, langoustines, oysters, clams, mussels, crab, sea urchin, roe and much more. End the romantic night with a visit to the ‘Sweet Temptation’ dessert buffet. At Conrad Bangkok, beautiful jazz music and a candle-lit 5-course dinner (B5000 per couple with Chandon sparkling wine) guarantee a magical Valentine’s Day celebration at Diplomat Bar, while elegance is personified at KiSara, where an 8-course degustation menu (B5000 including sparkling sake) is on offer to couples. Lovers can enjoy a romantic 5-course dinner with live music (B2500 ++ per head) at Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok’s famous Scalini Italian restaurant. Alternatively, a 5-course dinner with wine pairings, served in a private area at Lapse pool bar and restaurant, awaits. The promotion includes a special gift from Chef Egidio Latorraca. (Priced at B12000 per couple or 68 | F EBRUA RY 2015
B15000 per couple for the dinner and a 1-night stay at the hotel). The Okura Prestige Bangkok presents three exciting dining options over the Valentine’s Day weekend. A 4-course set menu (B5000 per couple), including a flower for the lady, is available for dinner at Up & Above on February 13 and 14. On the same dates, Elements offers a 5-course dinner with a bottle of sparkling wine at B9000 per couple while over at Yamazato on February 12-14, Master Chef Shigeru Hagiwara presents traditional Japanese Valentine dishes for Gozen lunch (11.30am – 2.30pm, B850 per person), and Kaiseki and Teppanykai dinner options (B3000 per person). On Valentine’s Day, Chef Amerigo Sesti at J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain, U Sathorn Bangkok, creates a tantalizing 9-course French menu served up in a shared Asian table concept. Priced at B9999 per couple, including a glass of sparkling wine and red rose for the lady, the exclusive offer is only available to the first 5 couples who make a reservation. These lucky couples will also have the chance to win a complimentary 1-night stay in a Superior Garden room (including breakfast for two). Celebrate with your loved one on Valentine’s Day with the ‘I Heart You’ set dinner at The Kitchen Table, W Bangkok. Couples are treated to a 5-course special menu (B4950) showcasing dishes such as fresh oysters with sour cherry, and smothered duck breast with honey and white balsamic among others. Toast the night of love away with a complimentary bottle of red or white wine and 2 glasses of bubbly. For one night only six venues at Sofitel So will provide romantic backdrops for life’s sweetest course. Couples shouldn’t miss out on the lip-smacking Red Oven buffet dinner (B1950++ per person). The Water Club and Park Society are also offering special degustation menus complete with a complimentary flute of Champagne (B7500 per couple for the 4-course dinner at The Water Club and B11000 per couple for the 5-course dinner at Park Society). Park Society Terrace promotes l’amore with a Valentine’s Day nibbles platter (B4000 per couple) designed for sharing, while the ultimate romantic dinner (B28000 per couple) is available at The Box where a single table allows you and your love to gaze at each other and the twinkling city lights below in exclusive solitude. Celebrate Velentine’s Day at Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park with Panorama’s Samba San buffet, featuring Brazilian spirit and Japanese finesse. The appertisers include guacamole and ceviche as well as refreshing caipirinha cocktails. Priced at B1800++ per person. bangkok101.com
review
FOOD & DRIN K
OSHA BANGKOK - A delicious home-coming This is an offbeat newcomer in that Osha is a Thaiowned, Thai-run Thai restaurant that started life in San Francisco. Their first Bangkok branch takes a modern approach to tradition in both food and decor. Downstairs has large round tables with half-moon booths and scenes from the Ramakien projected onto the ceiling. Large black pods jutting from the mezzanine are actually booths modelled on monks’ alms bowls, while above hangs a chandelier shaped like a gold Khon headdress. Temple style murals complete a comfortable setting of local heritage re-interpreted for the 21st century. The menu promises a similar code, starting with items like poached Andaman oyster (B250), artfully presented on the half shell on a bed of turquoise rock salt mounted on a black plate. The oyster juice is drained out, then rubbed with mha-noi leaf from a local plant that naturally produces gelatin. The result is a sea-tasting jelly, served with the oyster cooked sous vide, all topped with kaffir lime foam. It’s highly spiced and delicious. Lamb Mussaman (B550) comes falling off the bone, but the sauce is one-note sweet, with none of the background spices or salty/sour elements you’d expect from this dish. It’s presented with sticks of burning cinnamon, which the chef recommends you stub out in the sauce to add carbon, which is apparently good for your stomach. Another main, lemongrass Chilean seabass (B750), is cooked to a moist, bangkok101.com
flaky texture. It has good lemongrass flavour but could do with a booster of the advertised ginger and soy sauce. Rice is prepared and served in a young coconut shell. The chef first roasts the juice in the shell, then mixes it with the rice and roasts again. It lends a sweet tone to the rice, which is pleasant, but is perhaps overkill if your dish is already sweet. A modest list of mainly French wines goes from B1400 to B52000 for a Margaux 85. There are nine by the glass (mainly B395), including sparklers, a dessert choice and a sensible general pick for Thai food in Riesling. Among the desserts (all B280) are mango and sticky rice, and classic crème brulée scented with toasted coconut, which is a little grainy and heavy, possibly from overcooked egg, and there’s no hint of accompanying coconut or ginger. Osha has appealing ideas, the presentation is good and the cooking technique is often spot on, but the sauces need tweaks. That said, it was packed on a Tuesday night with mainly Thai patrons. The chef spends time front of house interacting with guests, which adds to the atmosphere. Once they’ve worked out the flavours it could be a flier.
OSHA BANGKOK
[MAP 4/L9]
99 Wireless Rd | 0 2256 6555 oshabangkok.com | 11am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight
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review
THE U.S. STEAKHOUSE - Choice cuts at affordable prices Bangkok has dozens of steakhouses. They seem to divide between wallet-busting venues and cheap joints that serve meat that’s, well, pretty tough to chew; better to skip those places and cook your own. So if you’re thinking a really good quality steak equals a stuffy restaurant and an expensive bill, you’ll be thinking again after a night at The U.S. Steakhouse. For discerning carnivores this place gets it just right with its blood-red sofas and chairs, white marble tables, hacksaw knives, and Choice Certified U.S. Angus Beef. Being certified makes a tasty difference: the brand is a cut above USDA Prime, Choice and Select. Only one in four cattle meets these standards. This kind of information, and a lot more about the meaty subject – marbling, cuts, grading and so on – is provided on info-placemats and by the knowledgeable and friendly owner, Don James. He is a man who takes steak satisfaction seriously. “The stigma for US beef in Bangkok was it’s only for the wealthy. I wanted to change that; anyone can have quality meat at an affordable price,” says Don. Start with one of the winning appetizers, like a big bowl of chunky, creamy homemade clam chowder (B110); the tasty, crisp Caesar salad (B200); or the crunchy popcorn shrimp with a dipping sauce of green apple and cilantro chutney (B210). 70 | F EBRUA RY 2015
The properly seared, flame-broiled steaks include New York strip loin, rib eye, filet mignon, and Australian T-bone. Most vary from 230 grams to 340 grams. The smaller cut of rib eye with black peppercorn sauce is succulent; coupled with a baked potato – there’s a choice of four different kinds – it makes for a delicious duet (B930). The larger top sirloin (B630) is also tender and flavourful. Other items include thick, grilled pork chops with caramelized onions (B 450), lemon-herbed roasted chicken (B365), grilled salmon (B475), and teriyaki pork tenderloin in a wild mushroom sauce (B450). Enjoy the meal with one of the well-chosen and reasonably priced wines. Labels include Californian, French, Chilean, Argentine and Australian options with bottles ranging from B1120 to B2180 (B225 by the glass). For dessert, dig into the decadent white chocolate cake (B125). A lunch menu offers hefty sandwiches served thick fries and coleslaw: New York striploin (B375), BBQ pulled pork (B325) and a top ground sirloin burger (B290) with extra toppings available. “We’re the only restaurant in Bangkok selling U.S.D.A beef burgers,” says Don.
THE U.S. STEAKHOUSE [MAP 3/K12] 156-158 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 0 8799 33527 | Open Tuesday to Sunday 5.30pm-10pm dinner; Tuesday to Saturday 11.30am-2pm lunch
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FOOD & DRIN K
review
BARCELONA GAUDÍ - The Heart and Soul of Catalan Cuisine “Originality consists of returning to the origin.” That’s a line from Antoni Gaudí. The human relationship with nature, expressing culture through art – the same principles that inspired the great Catalan architect to design his Sagrada Família have equally affected the founders of Barcelona Gaudí. Located in what was once a four-story condo on Sukhumvit 23, Barcelona Gaudí stands conspicuous among the overgrown trees and power lines. The eyecatching vestibule was modelled after the work of the eponymous Gaudí, whose influence doesn’t stop at the door. “We want to share Catalonia, our home, food, and culture, with the people of Thailand,” says Jordi Bartés, who runs the restaurant with his brother, Jaume, and Thai partner, Sittiset Wongwaiwut, “from the red caps [our people wear] to the mosaics on the wall.” To lead the kitchen, the brothers brought in long-time friend and fellow Catalan, Marc Font. The chef, who cut his teeth at Michelin-starred restaurants in Spain and worked with David Thompson at Nahm, looked to his roots for inspiration. The result is deeply satisfying comfort food. Starting with a platter of Rei Croqueta (B300), a feast of variegated croquettes stuffed with delicate blends like eggplant and cheese, chicken and serrano ham, and squid and prawns, the menu opens up to rustic dishes made with sentiment and pride. Quintessential tapas 72 | F EBRUA RY 2015
include Gambes a L’allet (B200), tender prawns cooked in an irresistible garlic aioli, and Mandonguilles (B100), pork meatballs with squid, browned in the pot and prepared with a robust sauce that’s best sopped up with crusty bread. Of the house specialties, Parc Güell (B460) is particularly notable. Although simple in theory, this codfish, cooked with the same mouth-watering aioli, bursts with piquant, complex flavours. For a hearty lunch, try one of the sandwiches, like the Coca Pollastre (B100). Caramelized onions and parmesan cheese enhance tender sliced chicken, which comes hot on grilled rustic bread. Top off any meal with a classic Crema Catalana (B120), custard spiced with vanilla and cinnamon and covered with a layer of torched sugar, giving it a look and texture similar to crème brûlée. On weekends, the chef whips up a massive platter of paella, saffron rice teeming with mussels, prawns, and chicken legs, on the terrace. The outdoor party is part of the effort to get the local community involved with Catalan culture. These restaurateurs are proud of their heritage, and they’re not afraid to show it.
BARCELONA GAUDÍ [MAP 3/J9] Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2661 7410 barcelona-thai.com | 11am to 11pm
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review
MÉJICO - A Fresh Take on Classic Mexican Fast in the current of a global trend, Bangkok chefs have begun enhancing old favourites with new techniques and aesthetics. Rustic dishes, from falafel to farfalle, have been given a facelift. Now, they’re made to cater to the increasing curiosity of the local palate. Indian, Chinese, Mediterranean – seemingly every major cuisine has been swept up in the movement, except for Mexican. But now Méjico, a new player in the ever-changing scene, is bucking that trend. Set in fashionable Groove at CentralWorld, Méjico is every bit as cool as the latest opening in, say, Hong Kong or Shanghai, with custom-made furnishings, granite platters, a long wooden table stretching across the dining room, tequila barrels visibly stashed in the ceiling, and a balcony for al fresco dining. But Méjico is different. Chef TK, who trained in the US, has the bravado to experiment with his menu. He tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried. Dishes like the beef short rib (B695), which is braised for six hours, left on the bone, and finished with a smoky chipotle barbeque sauce, shatter stereotypes of Mexican food. So does the grilled shrimp and smashed avocado (B215), which is fresh, light and engaging to eat, the shrimp redolent of smoke and the radish popping on the tongue. 74 | F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 5
Turning labels on their heads is the implicit goal of the restaurant. It starts with the approach. Served on stone trays, the dishes are made to share. The guacamole (B235) is mashed at the table, providing diners a fun, first-hand look at its preparation. As a starter, light-textured salmon ceviche (B195) is zesty with orange, cilantro and coconut. Other snack-sized hits include the jalapeño poppers (B235), which vary in heat from piece to piece and are rounded out with an herb-laden feta and cream cheese mixture. Even the tacos are sophisticated, with fillings such as buttery braised pork (B185) and fried soft shell crab (B235). Currently, Méjico offers over 40 different labels of tequila blanco, reposado, and añejo but that number should reach 214 this year. By introducing good tequila to Thailand, CEO Stuart Cook hopes locals will gain a greater appreciation for the spirit, even if it comes in a cocktail, like the Chambordand pomegranate-laced Disco Margarita (B250). Led by an exuberant staff, including a confident head chef, Méjico has opened in Bangkok with aplomb, proving that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.
MÉJICO
[MAP4 /F3-4]
2nd flr, Groove @ CentralWorld | 0 2252 6660 mejico.asia | Open daily from 11am to midnight
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review
CHARCOAL TANDOOR GRILL & MIXOLOGY - Deeply satisfying and memorable Created by the team behind Above Eleven, the popular roof-top bar and restaurant at Fraser Suites on Sukhumvit Soi 11, Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology is something of a revelation. Here you’ll find no curry swimming in artery-clogging ghee, only sophisticated reinterpretations of tandoor-grilled delicacies enjoyed by the Moghuls of old, and a unique selection of classic cocktails created with an intriguing Indian twist. From its industrial chic décor featuring iron and wood furniture and lattice ceilings a to the bib-like napkins, copper drinking vessels and piped sounds of a lively Indian bazaar in the restrooms, Charcoal is a fun dining experience for family and friends. Dominating the glass-walled kitchen are three copperclad tandoor ovens – one for meats and seafood, one for vegetables, and one for breads. From these, Executive Chef Deepanker Khosla and his colleagues produce a range of succulent kebabs, most designed to be enjoyed by two people or more. For vegetarians, Paneer Tikka (B350/4 pieces), cubes of cottage cheese marinated in fresh cream with mild spices and yellow chilli, works well with a selection of mint, mango and Kasauli mustard chutneys. Also excellent is Tandoori Malai Broccoli (B350/5 pieces), florets of fresh broccoli marinated in hung yoghurt, cream cheese, malt vinegar and green chilli. 76 | F EBRUA RY 2015
From the lamb and mutton selection try Anghaar Pasila, tender New Zealand lamb chops (B700/3 pieces) steeped overnight in a marinade of red chilli, cumin, malt vinegar and ginger garlic. Another superb sharing option is Dum Ki Raan (B1500), whole leg of spring mutton tenderised in a royal marinade, stuffed with onions, pickled garlic and cheese, and slow-simmered for up to 12 hours in the tandoor. Equally delicious is Murgh Malai Kebab, juicy chunks of chicken breast (B420/5 pieces) blended with cream cheese and hung yoghurt and seasoned with green chilli and fresh coriander, and Tandoori Jhinga Prawns, succulent jumbo prawns (B850/3 pieces) marinated in mixed Indian spices and garam masala. Creamy Dal Charcoal (B200), a rich dip of urad lentils, tomatoes, ginger and garlic slow-cooked overnight on dying charcoal embers complements all of the above. On the menu you’ll find helpful hints for pairing extensive cocktail choices (most around B350) with certain dishes. The heady Mint Chutney Mojito goes with anything. Served in a bucket-like classic Old Delhi copper cup, it blends Bacardi Gold rum and tangy house-made mint chutney with chopped Indian mango and fresh lime.
CHARCOAL TANDOOR GRILL & MIXOLOGY
[MAP 3/E7]
5th flr Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit 11 | 08 9307 1111 charcoalbkk.com | Open daily 6pm-11pm
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CHEZ PAPÉ - Back Alley Bistro Extraordinaire When sitting at one of the al fresco tables in front of the handful of bars and eateries along the narrow, pedestrian-only alley off Sukhumvit 11 – let’s call it Soi Cheap Charlies for convenience’ sake – if you squint your eyes just right, the alley takes on the general appearance of a bohemian Paris neighbourhood. Chez Papé fits nicely into that fantasy with its dedication to traditional French bistro fare matched by an archetypical bistro décor. The latter starts with walls dotted with photos of mid-20th century Paris scenery, plus French icons like Zinedine Zidane and Brigitte Bardot. The ambience extends to a zinc-top bar and outdoor terrace where most chairs face the alley, just as they would in any old-school French café or bistro. Plentiful wood accents and a black-and-white tiled floor complete the picture. Chef Laurent, who has lived in both Lyon and southern France, completely re-designed the Chez Papé menu last year with an array of dishes that cleave closely to the bistro’s Gallic roots. Each Friday the restaurant takes delivery of fresh seafood flown directly from France, while most of the sausages and pates are made fresh in-house. When fine de claire oysters (B600 for 6 pieces) from the Charente-Maritime region are available, they make an excellent pre-dinner choice supported by a glass of Pastis. Also highly enjoyable is smoked salmon and eggplant bangkok101.com
caviar wrap as an appetiser (B230), along with quenelle lyonnaise, a poached, oval-shaped fish dumpling served with a classic Nantua crayfish-cream sauce (B430). A ramekin of warm Saint-Marcellin cheese (B390) from the Rhone-Alpes region also goes down well with a glass of Cotes du Rhone, as does the plate of nicely seasoned steak tartare served with Provence-style mustard (B590). The southern French-style lamb shank (B590), braised for five hours and served with greens and pureed potatoes, makes a stalwart main suitable for sharing. Chez Papé offers a three-course set lunch daily (including weekends) for a very reasonable B380. Weekly specials are listed on the chalkboard as well on the restaurant’s website. A range of classic French desserts is available. If you’re having trouble deciding, go for the Café Gourmand, which matches a cup of espresso with a trio of sweet delights: chocolate mousse, moelleux au chocolat (melting warm chocolate cake) and crème bruleé. The wine list boasts a carefully collected selection of wines from France, Chile, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, including seven wines available by the glass.
CHEZ PAPÉ
[MAP 3/F9]
Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 2492, 08 9897 5282 chezpape.com | Open daily; 11.30am-2pm & 5pm-11pm
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FOOD & DRIN K
in the kitchen
MICHEL ESCHMANN talks to Howard Richardson
Having people in the kitchen is what Tables Grill is all about. It has cooking stations around the room, so diners can get up close to the action, and it’s here that I’m meeting chef Michel Eschmann, between lunch and dinner service, so he can show me how to make Boston lobster bisque. “We prepare it in the afternoon,” he says, “because the smell is too strong to have in the restaurant during service.” He heats a spoonful of olive oil in a large pan and throws in chunks of lobster shell, tiny bits of flesh still attached. Steam rises as it begins to roast. “Oil absorbs the keratin, which contains the red colour,” Michel explains. “Water won’t absorb it. And it also creates a nice roast aroma – the longer you roast it, the more flavourful the soup.” Sticky bits are already forming on the bottom of the pan. The chef adds two-centimeter pieces of carrot and celery, and, after another minute, shallots and onion. “We cut them a little bigger because the soup must cook for several hours. With fish stock they would be smaller, as that only takes 20 minute. Any longer and the fishbone starts to turn bitter.” After another three minutes, in goes chopped leek; then, a minute later, tomato purée and a single clove of garlic. Now Michel adds white wine. It sizzles as it hits the surface of the pan, and he starts to deglaze, scraping off all the tasty, sticky bits accumulated there. A caramelised aroma fills the air. 78 | F EBRUA RY 2015
“When the wine has reduced,” he says, “we add tomato, fresh tarragon, bay leaf and fish stock. We don’t use lobster stock because the flavour of lobster would be too strong.” After two hours simmering, Michel strains the soup, then binds it with a roux of butter and flour. The dish is finished in the restaurant during that evening’s service. The chef places two cubes of butter in a saucepan with salt and pepper and small pieces of pre-cooked lobster meat. Large flames leap from the pan as he pours on a large tablespoon of flambéed cognac. Now he puts in the stock. “It’s a little dark, so we add one or two tablespoons of cream, which also enhances the flavour.” To serve he pours in another small spoon of cognac, not flambéed, then spoons the broth over whipping cream sitting in the bottom of a soup bowl. A quick sweep of the spoon leaves a surface swirl of cream. A garnish of chopped fresh chives, and it’s ready to eat. It has lovely depth in the mouth: the velvety cream, a hit of alcohol, sweet meat and the intense flavour of lobster. The remnants of charring give an almost bitter edge and there’s the lingering richness of butter. A traditional dish, traditionally cooked, and such a pleasure to eat.
TABLES GRILL
[MAP 4/G5]
Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com | Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm, Sun brunch 10.30am-2pm
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FOOD & DRIN K
eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
SOUP FOR THE HEART AND THE SOUL
A
s a rule, I don’t enjoy wading through the crowds that parade around fancy Siam Paragon Shopping Mall. I go there for one thing only and as I climb towards the upper floors of the building, I smile because I smell something wonderful: the perfume of aromatic beef broth scenting the rarefied air. My destination is Nuer Koo at the cosy wooden patio on the mall’s fourth floor. The restaurant’s name means ‘soul mate’ in Thai, a phrase used mostly in the context of love, which is apposite because for me food is all about romance. Nuer Koo is a beef noodle joint operated by the seven siblings of the Sarasin family, who gave it that name because, in addition to its figurative meaning, it also translates as “beef match.” Here you pair beef broth with a rice or noodle dish of your choice. The restaurant is a notch or two above similar outlets in terms of value because it uses high-quality sirloin, rib eye, Kobe and Wagyu beef, cuts that have a huge positive impact on the pièce de résistance – the broth – which is pretty miraculous even without any seasoning. Bob, my muse when it comes to Thai food, introduced me to this delight and like him I tend to order the broth and noodles in separate bowls. I get flat, soft noodles and a
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swimming pool of delicious broth with lean pieces of beef floating in it. The Karen chilli vinegar (using chillies grown in the hills of northern Thailand) plays an important role in the taste. In fact, I don’t want anything else to jazz up the broth. This fragrant, smoky addition enhances every mouthful, for which I carefully combine a little bit of everything… a piece of sirloin, some flat noodles, and some broth. The tenderness of the thin-sliced sirloin and the softness of the noodles, coupled with the richness of the broth, work on the palate like a symphony. As a ‘winter’ comfort food in Thailand, it is hard to beat and best shared with that someone special. Nuer Koo is located at the fourth floor of the Siam Paragon Mall – nearer to the fountain end rather than the temple end. It also serves delicious appetizers such as gouy chai todd (fried stuffed chive dumplings) and Phuket-style fish balls.
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listings
Liu
Xin Tian Di
CHINESE
XIN TIAN DI [MAP 5/K4]
LIU [MAP 4/L7] 3F Conrad Bangkok, 87 Wireless Rd | 0 2690 9999 | conradhotels3.hilton.com | 2pmmidnight There’s a fine line between striking the right notes when it comes to authenticity and tradition, and becoming anchored entirely in the past. Liu at Conrad, though, manages to find this balance perfectly, delivering all the low-lit, understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while moving forward and executing food full of contemporary deliciousness. The dim sum selection is likely to be familiar enough for fans of this kind of food. The abalone sui mai (B110) has a richness of flavour shot through with a silky texture while the har gao with scallop (B110) has that inimitable seafood taste, isolated early on but then offset with a combination that demands to be savoured. On the a la carte menu, the raw salmon rolls with cucumber and shrimp roe (B260) feel like informal sharing food but there is a far more delicately balanced flavour. But it’s not necessary to deconstruct it that far – the simple pleasure of good salmon is there to behold.
22F Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park | 952 Rama IV Rd | 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk. com | 11.30am-2.30pm; 6pm-10.30pm The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches and a la carte evening dining, including what many regard as the best Peking Duck in Bangkok. Much of the restaurant’s success is attributable to Chef Lam Kok Weng, a nine-year veteran of the outlet and a winner in Thailand’s Iron Chef competition. His menu is noted for its excellent Cantonese faire and an imaginative selection of modern Chinese dishes with intriguing influences from a variety of cuisines. During the week at lunch time, shoppers and members of the business community come to Xin Tian Di for the set lunches and the ‘all you can eat’ dim sum (B900++), but in the evening couples, families and small groups arrive for the excellent a la carte dining and elegant atmosphere. For many Bangkok families, a Saturday or Sunday dim sum lunch at the restaurant has become a family ritual. The seven private rooms for 8-12 diners are especially popular with groups and those seeking a little privacy.
Mei Jiang
MEI JIANG The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd 0 2861 2888 | peninsula.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Open kitchens are in vogue but Mei Jiang at The Peninsula Bangkok has taken it a step further with the newly launched Chef’s Table concept. Already regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants, Mei Jiang gives customers the chance to go behind the scenes and observe their star head chef Jackie Ho prepare for an exciting dining experience. Ho delivers a set menu (B6800 or B7600including matching tea selections) thatcombines strikingly elegant presentation with flavours that reveal themselves slowly but linger on the tongue. First off the line is the savoury crab claw with white custard and ginger. It’s a surprising combination that has become one of Ho’s signatures. The highlights keep coming: in sautéed prawns with black garlic and wolfberries (above), Ho combines contrasting flavours in one mouthful that also lowers cholesterol. The poached red garoupa with rice sauce and sun-dried pickles settles the stomach and Ho’s special fried rice with fresh scallops leaves the emphasis entirely on the produce.
Ma ma makes i e k i l t s t!! Ju Authentic Italian home cooking on Thong Lor Set lunch starts@290B
387/15 Sukhumvit 55, Thong Lor soi 21 Tel: 02 185 2199
www.solemiobkk.com 80 | F EBRUA RY 2015
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CHEZ PAPÉ French Bistro - Bar
Chez Pape The winner, though, may still be the pan-seared fillet of Australian beef with black pepper paste – it’s something that shows up in most Chinese restaurants but Ho has created a dish with refined, long-lasting flavour. The beef is perfectly cooked but it is the slightly fiery sauce, handed down through Ho’s family, that is truly spectacular.
FRENCH CHEZ PAPE [MAP 3/F9] 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2255 2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed but that’s not to say Chez Pape feels routine. Rather, there are enough surprises, both in terms of the combinations and the presentation to elevate Chez Pape’s food to something more impressive. Starting with the appetisers, there is a ceviche of barracuda in chilli and citrus (B160) or the tartare of avocado, crab and green apple (above right, B200), both hitting the right notes: light, fresh, seafood flavours offset with the right amount of seasonings. But perhaps it’s in the more provincial dishes that Chez Pape really declares its hand, offering a port-marinated foie gras terrine, served with mango marmalade (B285). The early courses are certainly impressive enough to build expectation for the mains without being so concept-heavy that they create confusion. And, indeed, the big plates tell you everything you need to know about Chez Pape’s ambitions. The pan-seared beef flank, an exquisite cut of meat, comes with goat-cheese ravioli and garnished with virgin sauce (B450) – it’s a deeply satisfying combination. Twisting the formula a little further is the duck breast served with apples, spinach and Japanese citrus dressing (B510). It’s a fine example of Chez’s Pape’s commitment bangkok101.com
J’aime
Traditional French food, fine wines and yummy homemade desserts
to doing the inimitably French things well while borrowing and augmented with inspired touches from elsewhere.
J’AIME U Sathorn Bangkok, 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli 0 2119 4888 | uhotelsresorts.com | 11.30am3pm, 6pm-11pm It’s a large square room with full wall windows on two sides, a grand bar on another, and opposite an open kitchen. The floor is marble tiled, classically shaped chairs are in modernist grey and black, and the tables are dressed in linen. The whole exudes a relaxed, classical formality. The place settings have knives, forks and chopsticks, with a lazy Susan in the centre, which shows the intention for Asian-style servings to share. From a short a la carte menu and two tasting menus (six courses, B2880, plus B1050 with wine pairing; and nine courses B3850/B1400), some dishes – soups, for instance – come as single plates, others are three or four servings in small bowls. Standout dishes include red pepper and blood orange soup (B300), an unusual, light and refreshing combination with spicy depth. The citrus background is subtle and creamy salt arrives via goat’s cheese that has begun to melt in the warm broth. Baby onions add caramel sweetness and there’s a pleasant hit of rosemary and thyme from Provencal herb foam. Among the desserts (three pieces/B420, five/B700) are a gateau opera with top quality chocolate and coffee flavours, and a delicately crisp mille-feuille Napoleon served with sharp berries against the cream.
INTERNATIONAL CREPES & CO. 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family
OPEN EVERY DAY Lunch : 11.30am - 2pm Dinner : 5pm - 11pm
Saturday 14th February
Special Valentines “Menu Pour Deux” with a range of ‘for 2’ dishes, including: * Fresh Oysters * * Maine Lobster * * Prime Beef Rib * * French Imported Sea Bream *
and our homemade
* Exquisite Desserts *
RESERVATIONS
02 255 2492 Sukhumvit Soi 11
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Crepes & Co. business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious. The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal after-dinner following. Or any time, for that matter. You can keep it simple by going for the Crepe Josephine (B240), which is a banana and chestnut cream served with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce on top. But if you’ve got a major sweet tooth, you’ll probably gravitate toward the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging invitingly with vanilla ice cream and lathered in a rich, tangy raspberry sauce. These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you have a real craving. Going down the list reveals some eye-popping desserts – try the Crepe Mango Coconut (B200), which somehow works despite the unusual pairing of freshmango and coconut slices. The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B335), which comes out rinsed in apple liqueur and filled with sautee apple and rum raisin ice cream. And then they set that baby on fire.
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Park Society
PARK SOCIETY Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 0 2624 0000 | 5pm-1am (bar), 6pm-10pm (restaurant) A large walk-in kitchen as you enter has a generous chef’s table stacked with cured meats, where you can choose to dine. It leads to a curiously shaped dining space with those beautiful views through full wall windows. The walls themselves and ceiling are rhomboid mirrored panels reflecting Victorian style lamps, hexagonal marble dining tables and waiters in Christian Lacroix-designed, Thai-influenced uniforms, complete with cummerbunds, knee socks and traditional wide-thighed pantaloons. The whole has an almost art deco angularity, the effect pleasantly disorienting, like a fairground hall of mirrors. The modern international menu changes daily according to available produce and starts with a mix of stalwart and exclusive items like oysters (six for B700), Hokkaido scallops (B900) and Aran Valley caviar (B4,999 for 30g). Mains are well presented, the off-kilter square plates adorned with smears and blobs of colourful purée are an arty backdrop for dishes like pigeon with gnocchi and baby vegetables (B1400/half, B2600/ whole). The well-chosen wine list, with
The Kitchen Table most bottles between B2000 and B4000, has 12 wines and four sparkling by the glass. To finish, there’s a choice of three desserts or cheese plates.
THE KITCHEN TABLE [MAP 5/G7] 2F W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 | whotels.com/Bangkok | 9am-10pm The Kitchen Table strives to be a ‘modern bistro’ with food that is honest, wholesome and full of flavour. The interior is warm and svelte with an open kitchen that has a small counter for those who enjoy watching chefs in action. Regular seating includes both booths and tables and chairs. There is also an extra-large table for groups of up to ten and a separate bar for those who want to enjoy cocktails and snacks. The restaurant is under the stewardship of Culinary Director Thaneht Naovarat, usually referred to as Chef Keng. He has recently added a ‘Food from the Heart’ menu to complement what is already on offer. One of the signature dishes, a popular choice with loyal patrons, is fettucini with Maine lobster (B780). It offers a delightful combination of lobster, Pernod cream sauce, sliced organic fennel and Japanese salmon roe for a salty counterpoint. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch
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La Bottega Di Luca and dinner. A favourite option with many people at lunch is the My Burger, My Style promotion (B470), which allows diners to create their own burger and pick from a choice of side dishes and soft drinks.
ITALIAN LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA [MAP 3/P8] The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm Nestled in a smallish mall on soi 49, La Bottega di Luca is an immediately welcoming space, effortlessly combining indoor-outdoor seating and cultivating a relaxed vibe that makes it a neighbourhood favourite with real panache. Luca, who runs the show, updates the parts of the menu regularly and orders produce in from Italy fortnightly. The antipasti start at B290 and the grilledscamorza (B390) – that’s smoked mozzarella – wrapped in speck ham with mushrooms and red wine sauce is a delight. It’s a simple idea but the evident care taken in preparation elevates this to a gorgeous starter, reminding diners just how much they’ve come to miss cheese in Bangkok. And that sauce – you’ll be tempted to lick the plate clean. There’s a sizeable menu and it can be tricky to know which direction to take. The most eye-catching salad is the seafood combination (B220) with steamed prawns, baby squid, mussels and clams seasonedwith garlic. But who are we kidding? We’re here for the rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion. That means it’s hard to go past the homemade pasta that gets freshly made every day – the dishes are reasonably priced at B240-490, although you’ll be shelling out B1790 if you go for the lobster.
SOLE MIO [MAP 3/Q5] Thong Lor Soi 21 | 0 2185 2199 | solemiobkk. com | 11.30am-11.30pm The front of the restaurant is devoted to a terrace with around 25 seats, but most bangkok101.com
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Sole Mio customers opt for one of the 35 or so settings in the warm orange and brown interior with a bare wood floor and walls covered with a collection of photos and memorabilia. The restaurant not only has a large selection of excellent pizzas and pastas, its pastas are some of the best in town. Although fettuccine bolognese (B240) can be an ordinary dish, Chef Luca Giorgi, who is from Bologna, turns it into a masterpiece. The dishes here are made with both imported pasta from Italy and pastas made at the restaurant. One of the latter can almost always be found on the ‘specials’ blackboard menu that changes every few days. Although proprietor Domenico Locantore serves a wide selection traditional thin-crusted pizzas, we really enjoyed a pizza with goat cheese and salmon (B450) during a recent visit. Definitely not traditional, but the salmon and goat cheese have a remarkable affinity for one another. Of the traditional pizzas, the diavola (B260), made with tomato sauce, mozzarella, spicy salami and black olives, is delicious.
THAI BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL [MAP 5/D7] 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm The Blue Elephant brand has been wildly successful since it was first established in 1980, introducing Thai food to the world through restaurants dotted all over the place, including those in London, Paris and Dubai. And, of course, there’s one in Bangkok, just under Surasak BTS in a gorgeous oldfashioned Thai building. When you take in the traditional interior, it’s no surprise that Blue Elephant’s food is most confidently presented when they are hewing toward cuisine that, as categorized on their menu, derives from “Thai cooking of the past”. The massaman lamb (B580) is immaculately presented with a sweet, fragrant sauce, while the F EBRUA RY 2015 | 83
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listings
Blue Elephant tom jiew kai (B240) has all the restorative powers of chicken soup, with a deliciously peppery aftertaste. However, Blue Elephant is not content to let the grass grow under them and that’s why, perhaps sensing that Thai food has increasingly been adapted into a more modern, international cuisine, there is also a section of the menu for Thai food “of today” and “of tomorrow”. There are undoubtedly some interesting combinations, as Blue Elephant expands its playbook beyond the more familiar staples. There’s the grilled spare ribs with honey (B380) and a black chicken green curry (B680), using rare black chicken in coconut milk, with sweet basil and pea aubergines. For those interested in trying buffalo, there’s also a starter-sized satay set of Buffalo fillets from Ubon Ratchatanee (B320).
EATHAI [MAP 4/K4] Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2119 7777 | centralembassy.com/eathai | 10am10pm The concept of the Eathai food court at Central Embassy is simple but ambitious: present diners with the finest flavours representing every region of Thailand. That’s no small feat, considering that Thai cuisine is as diverse as the country’s
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Eathai landscapes and cultures. And yet this cosy venue, set in a quiet corner of Bangkok’s newest luxury shopping mall, has succeeded in doing just that – and then some. Separated by region, Eathai’s offerings leads diners on a culinary tour of the country. As you munch through the never-ending pile of green papaya, take in the décor. Monolithic taupe mortars and pestles lend the Isaan section charm, the subtle features suggestive of a lazy lunch in a lakeside gazebo. Other regions likewise represent their home turf: raised circular benches in the North, food carts in the Street Food Market, southern clay pots at the door, and classic Thai motifs adorn the Central walls. Altogether the décor adds layers to the underlying theme.
RUEN URAI [MAP 5/H4] The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd | 0 2266 8268 | ruen-urai.com | Noon-11pm Located in a beautifully restored 100year old Thai golden teakwood house decorated with fine antiques and elegant silk-covered furnishings, Ruen Urai (meaning ‘the House of Gold’) at the Rose Hotel off Surawongse Road offers a unique take on traditional Thai cooking styles, giving them a contemporary lift.
Ruen Urai This is why the menu – which is refreshed annually and was recently bolstered by seven new dishes inspired by zesty rural cuisine – includes a number of non-Thai staplessuch as scallops, salmon, tuna, snowfish, soft-shell crab and lamb. The new dishes on the menu are mainly dry cooked having been marinated in roasted herbs and spices. No insipid sloppy wet sauces here but plenty of robust flavours. Of particular note is roasted curry of pork spare ribs (B300) and a dish of wild boar sautéed in a thick curry sauce (B350). Both are hearty offerings – Thai winter comfort food if you like – and perfectly demonstrate the four cardinal taste characteristics of rural Thai cuisine – a balance of sweet, salty, bitter and sour.
JAPANESE ELEMENTS Fl25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | 6pm-10.30pm Elements is an imposing space, where heavy ship’s lanterns loom overhead from a high ceiling lined with the inevitable exposed piping. It’s perhaps a bit large to fit the ‘living room’ atmosphere
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Elements describedin the marketing bumph, despite the sofa style and armchair seating. The décor is predominantly black and brown, low lit, with full wall sculptures of black charcoal at eachend of the room that – as well as providingan arty backdrop – apparently filter outcooking smells from the open kitchen. To wind down grab a sake cocktail (maybe ‘sakura’, with plum wine, cranberry, and syrups of rose apple and sakura, B350) as you choose from a list billed as ‘modern logical cuisine’, which they translate to me as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into a la carte, with main meat courses largely in the B900-B1500 range, and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option (B1200). We opted for the fivecourse Moments set (B2400), starting with excellent quality gravlax and lightly smoked tuna with wasabi vinaigrette and soy jelly.
TAIHEI 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm From the moment the platter of sashimi moriawase (B520; left, second-bottom) comes out, prime seafood cuts delicately arranged, it’s clear that there is a real
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Taihei commitment to quality. The presentation is also immaculate, offering a swathe of bright colours – bright pinks and flashes of silver-grey. It’s beautiful food. And it tastes pretty damn fine as well, the tuna, in particular, soft and slightly salty on its own, mild enough to work in the mouth alongside a dab of soy and wasabi. Another highlight is the beef teriyaki (B580), sourced from Australia and broiled, before coming out served with seasonal greens, again bursting with colour. If you’re not super-keen to fill up on red meat, try the gindara miso (B600; left, second top). It’s a cod fish cooked to perfection, kissed on each side just long enough to turn the skin crispy, before being served with tangy miso seasoning. There’s also a selection of tempura to choose from, whether you fancy prawns (B450), pork skewers (B380) or chicken karage (B350).
YTSB 3F VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phayathai Rd | 0 2309 3939 | facebook.com/YTSB.BKK | 6pm-11pm The odd-looking name is an abbreviation for Yellow Tail Sushi Bar, which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. The fish has different names according to size and stage but is known as yellowtail once it reaches
FOOD & DRIN K
YTSB maturity and is ready to eat. Upon a first glance, the restaurant is decked out with chic Japanese-themed décor rather than authentic Japanese style. The soft yellow lighting creates a low-key ambience likely to draw you in. It’s also on the fourth floor of VIE Hotel – so before you settle in, head downstairs to the outdoor terrace on the third floor, where you can still order food and drinks from the well-stocked bar. The name of the venue might suggest that the menu is all about yellowtail, but there’s real variety. If you’re in a group, it’s hard to ignore the set of appetisers (B1180) composed of dried stingray fin, dried shrimps, fried salmon and salted ginkgo. It arrives on a long bamboo platter, emphasizing YTSB’s fusion influences, as opposed to taking the strictly traditional route. If you want to branch out beyond the raw fish, there are alternatives with wagyu and chicken. Maybe try the kagoshimawagyu namban yaki (B2500), cooked with Japanese seasoning and topped with sesame, mushroom, and asparagus. Each bite is tender, and the Japanese seasoning is exquisite. But the spotlight still comes back to the sashimi, especially the aburi Hamachi jalapeno, which includes five pieces for B600.
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imbibe
Capital Spirit BY LAURENCE CIVIL
London dry gin: for seemingly time immemorial it has been synonymous with quality. Today, it’s the world’s most popular form of the piquant spirit. No genever or bathtub gin can compare.
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n order to earn the tag “London dry,” a gin must be distilled to a minimum of 70 percent alcohol by volume (ABV) with the botanicals – juniper berries being the most prominent – added during the distillation process rather than after. This explains why Hendrick’s, a brand that adds cucumber and rose petal after distillation, can’t be called a London dry. It’s a strict process, but it keeps the style unique and exclusive. The majority of London dry gins are, in fact, distilled in Scotland. Five years ago there were only three premium brand gin-makers in the capital city: Beefeater, the only surviving distillery from the Victorian years; the Thames
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Distillery, which currently makes 60 craft gin labels; and Sacred, a micro-distillery in Highgate. In the last five years, however, the gin scene has undergone something of a revival. The trend started in 2009 when Sam Galsworthy and Fairfax Hall launched Sipsmith, the first copper pot-based distillery to be granted a license in London in 189 years. Sipsmith offers the quintessential taste of a classic London dry. Spicy, bold, and complex, the gin’s flavour comes from a careful distillation process involving a blend of botanical ingredients. Today, Sipsmith’s is one of the only gins in the world made using the traditional “onebangkok101.com
imbibe
FOOD & DRIN K
Want to try a classic Gin Cocktail in Bangkok? Here are three recommendations.
J. BOROSKI MIXOLOGY, SOMEWHERE OFF THONGLOR “I set up gin cocktails on menus all over the world and London dry gin, being the contemporary standard as well as the often preferred taste in gin, frequently forms the base in these recipes,” explains master mixologist Joseph Boroski. “That said, my hidden Bangkok bar has no menu and cocktails, carefully crafted on an individual basis using an ever-updated selection of fresh ingredients and imported spirits, have no names. I frequently like to pair London dry gin with berries, citrus, and floral notes. A recent personalized cocktail, also unnamed, contains London dry gin over hand-carved spring-water ice with a homemade raspberry vanilla soda and a hibiscus shrub.”
VESPER, SOI CONVENT
shot” method of macerating botanicals and juniper berries in a blend of water and a neutral spirit, rather than as a concentrate. Being the newest rarely lasts for long, though. In 2012, hot on the heels of Sipsmith, the City of London Distillery (COLD) opened in Bride Lane off Fleet Street, bringing distilling back to the Square Mile for the first time in centuries (hundreds of years ago, there were nearly 1,700 in this part of town, though most were bathtub operations). COLD’s two stills were named Clarissa and Jennifer after the late television cookery duo, the Two Fat Ladies, who were legendary gin aficionados. Clarissa is a Carter-Head still, which means the botanicals are placed in a basket that sits above the level of the neutral spirit; the flavours are extracted as hot alcohol vapours pass through during distillation. Jennifer is a classic pot still with a rectification column. In this kind of pot, the botanicals are steeped with a raw neutral spirit for 24 hours prior to distillation and rectification. The result is a dry gin flavoured with juniper berries, angelica, liquorice, and coriander seeds. Fresh orange, lemon, and pink grapefruit are also added to give the gin its distinctive zest. The gin distillery renaissance has even transcended boundaries. A new venture, VII Hills, marked the first Italian-style London dry to hit the city. Started by three young Italian bartenders – Filippo Previero, Danilo Tersigni, and Francesco Medici – and named for the famous hills of Rome, this gin uses Italian-sourced botanicals such as celery, artichoke hearts, and fennel to give the booze its distinct flavour. bangkok101.com
The ‘Hanky Panky’ was created in 1925 by Ada Coleman, the first female head bartender at the American Bar at The Savoy in London. At Vesper they make it by combining equal measures of London dry gin and sweet vermouth – in this case Cocchi Vermouth di Torino – with a dash or two of Fernet Branca. It’s a delightfully potent cocktail that balances sweet and floral elements with a full finish. All of the ingredients are put in an ice-filled shaker and agitate until the cocktail is perfectly cold. The mix is then strained into a chilled coupe glass and garnished with an orange twist.
NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST, SILOM SOI 7 The ‘Aide de Comp’s Choice’ cocktail at Namsaah is an ode to the first owner of the building that houses the bar. It combines a good slug of Beefeater gin with a measure of lychee liqueur and a dash each of Elderflower essence and Krajeab (Roselle) juice. “I find that I’m using more and more gin in cocktails,” says mixologist Justin Dunne. “It’s a fascinating spirit. It’s got so much more depth than vodka, because it has already been flavoured with other botanicals. When paired with other ingredients, it becomes a real pleasure.”
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WHISGARS SILOM P90
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NIGHTLIFE PARTY ALL WEEK
WOOBAR, the W Hotel’s stylish nightspot (Sathorn Nuea Rd, 0 2344 4000), is turning up the heat on weekdays with two limited-time promotions. From Monday to Thursday, unwind from your work day with “buy one, get one” deals on all wines, beers and cocktails as part of After Work is Hot, from 5pm until 9pm. On Friday, Girls Night Out delivers free-flow sparkling wine for the ladies from 7.30pm until 9.30pm. Resident DJs Tripop and Toru keep the party going into the night.
LOVE FROM ABOVE
Take your sweetheart to new heights by celebrating Valentine’s Day on high at Vertigo (Banyan Tree Hotel, 100 South Sathorn Rd, 0 2679 1200). On February 14, for B9000++ per couple, you and your sweetheart can enjoy a 5-course dinner with a glass of champagne (you get a long-stemmed rose to bring home, too). For drinks with a view, but without the meal, head to Moon Bar for a glass of Moet & Chandon Rosé.
NO ROMANCE, JUST BEER
All alone this Valentine’s Day, or just sick of all the schmaltz? If hearts and cupids aren’t for you, head to BeerVault (Four Points by Sheraton, Sukhumvit 15, 0 2309 3201) for Anti-Valentine’s Day on February 14. Throughout the day, you can enjoy a bucket of four imported beers for B900, free teppanyaki, and a live performance by Lee Shamrock, starting at 9pm.
BOUNCE AND BASS
On February 5, Reece Low visits Thailand for the first time, bringing the upand-coming Melbourne Bounce style to Onyx (Route 66, Rama IX Rd, 0 8164 1166). Sponsored by Grey Goose, expect a night of bass-heavy, high-energy electronic house music with solid vodka drinks. Entry is B400, and the party gets started early.
NEW HOUSE IN THE OLD TOWN
Dickinson’s Culture Café (Phra Arthit Rd, 0 2829 3262) has gone underground in setting up a new party for electronic music lovers. This brand-new night of deep house and techno, called Subconscious, lights up the old town on February 6. DJs Funkpheno and Damon Rider will take to the decks at 9pm, spinning tracks until the early hours. Free entry.
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review
WHISGARS - Sizzle and Smoke in Silom -
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I hated cigars when I was a kid,” says Eddy Guerra, Vice President of Hathor Investment Group and a founder of the Whisgars brand. With good reason. Born in Miami to Cuban emigrants, Guerra’s childhood was ensconced in clouds of cigar smoke. His family worked in the industry. His grandfather puffed on five a day. It was only as he grew older that he began to appreciate the flavour of a good cigar. Then, he got into whisky. He discovered nuance, earthen tones, the depth of a single malt, the taste of peat imparted into a single cask whisky. Now, he looks after the four branches of his flagship, Whisgars, including its latest opening in Silom. A speakeasy-themed lounge, the new Whisgars outlet adds another layer of polish to the already posh corner of Surasak and Silom. It’s an archetype of the Roaring Twenties. The portico leads to brick walls, amber light, and a handsome interior. Leather sofas, wrapped around low coffee tables, invite conversation. The vibe was designed to appeal to all makes and models: men and women, young and old, groups and individuals — one part cigar lounge, another part nightclub. “About half of our clients are Thai. We get lots of groups of young women in here, too. This isn’t your dad’s cigar room,” says Guerra, who speaks of whisky the way a poet waxes lyrical of a moonlit lake. Whisgars, he says, works
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directly with select distilleries in Scotland, where it sources its premium single cask whiskies, most of which are limited batch and bottled in odd years. For an introduction to the complexities of the spirit, Guerra suggests ordering a flight, which introduces five top-shelf varieties: Lowland, Highlands, Japanese, Speyside, and Islay. The hand-rolled cigars are predominantly Nicaraguan and Dominican. Each Whisgars branch is different. The original location on Sukhumvit 23 revamped a busy corner. The outlet in Mahatun Plaza — above La Monita and El Osito — was set up for the VIP crowd. This new location in Silom combines the best of both, with open floor space, as well as accoutrements like a red felt pool table and a smoke-free lounge with a secret entrance. Before a DJ takes the decks, the soundtrack runs the gamut of American rock and roll, from Springsteen to The Strokes. Below 13, a carved ice bar serving hand-crafted cocktails, adds to the overall flair. Whisgars is a progressive take on two products often considered old and stuffy. Whisky and cigars aren’t just for your grandparents. They’re cool again.
WHISGARS
[MAP 5/D5]
981 Silom Rd (BTS Surasak) | 0 2630 1997 whisgars.com | 2pm to 2am
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listings
Ku De Ta
CLUBS KUDETA [MAP 5/G6] 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2108 2000 | kudeta.net Ku De Ta set out to add a new dimension to a night out in Bangkok. To some extent, it follows in the footsteps of Bed Supperclub by providing an upscale club experience for the city’s movers and shakers but it has also carved out its own unique aesthetic that is sure to make it one of Bangkok’s top nightlife destination venues. Undoubtedly, the space is the first part of Ku De Ta’s glittering fit-out that catches the eyes. The main club is a vast rectangular area with skyscraper ceilings and a long window running down an entire side, affording an exceptional view of Bangkok lit up at night. Another feature is the lighting set-up – a very snazzy, very modern LED ‘chandelier’ hangs over the dance floor, twinkling a variety of different colours in time with the music.
LEVELS [MAP 3/F8] 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 2308 3246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am Of all the venues of Sukhumvit Soi 11, Levels has benefited the most from the closure earlier this year of Bed Supperclub. Great swathes of that clientele now overflow to the other side of the soi, making Levels one of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok, on any night of the
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Mixx Discotheque week. At many popular clubs in Bangkok, the crowd quickly finds a familiar groove, attracting one particular kind of revellers that old hands can identify fairly quickly – whether that’s the tourists passing through on the way to the beach or the slightly more clued-up locals returning to a favourite haunt. At Levels, though, it’s much harder to categorise – there’s a welcome mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of Levels’ buzzy atmosphere.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4] President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd mixxdiscotheque.com | 10pm-late | B350 Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs. It is decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. A 1980s themed Ladies Night is held on Wednesdays. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, as long as things go smoothly, the chance to party until nearly sunrise.
ONYX RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd | 081 645 1166 facebook.com/onyxbkk
ONYX
Sugar Club Onyx is the latest addition to this milieu. Located at the far end of RCA – that is, the end closest to the expressway – Onyx is an upscale nightclub that borrows more than a touch from the futuristic, designdriven interior of Bed Supperclub. Part of the appeal of RCA is that it’s one of the rare spots is Bangkok where Thais and expats party alongside one another. The club is laid out over two storeys, although most of the action appears confined to the ground floor, where the main floor is dominated by a dozen small tables and the walls lined with more secluded sofas. The main feature, though, is the giant video screen that looms large over the DJ booth. Along with the LED lighting that periodically sets the ceiling ablaze with neon, it ensures Onyx creates a dynamic impression.
SUGAR CLUB [MAP 3/R1] 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (entrance next to the Australian Pub | bashbangkok.com | Midnightvery late Open till “very late”, Sugar Club is brash. The guys who set this place up spliced strands of global clubbing DNA with the usually sleazy after-hours club concept. There are burlesque dancers ranging from midgets and robots on stilts to cross-dressing whacker Pan Pan (the shows bring to mind risqu? superclub Manumission at times); the fixtures and furniture are of the very glam sort
Above Eleven bangkok101.com
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Heaven (gleaming Louis IX furniture, etc); and the DJs are often big names. Head up the stairs lined with misshapen mirrors and you’ll find three floors of fun, two of them taken up by the main room and the mezzanine which overlooks it.
BARS WITH THE VIEW ABOVE ELEVEN [MAP 3/KC4] 33rd Fl Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 22079300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am A west-facing 33rd floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, Above Eleven is a winning combination. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on. Tip: choose a seat on the north side – it gets windy to the south. There’s a great view, an impressive cocktail list and an electro soundtrack.
HEAVEN [MAP 8/K13] 20F Zen@CentralWorld, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com Mon-Sun
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Long Table It’s heavily dependent on the weather as the design offers precious little protection but on a warm Bangkok night, when the golden backdrop of its feature bar lights up like a metal sun, it feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital. Crucially, they’ve got the cocktails (all B280-B320) right, using a well-chosen blend of spirits without going overboard and trying to cram every drink with one too many flavours. The Surreal Seduction – slightly cheesey name but we’ll forgive it because it tastes good – combines vodka, apple liqueur, elderflower syrup and pear puree. It’s super fruity but apple liqueur is one of the more versatile, underused ingredients in cocktails and it sets off the others in a way that’s refreshing but still carries a kick.
LONG TABLE [MAP 3/H8] 25F 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 0 2302 2557 | longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing that draws Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this impossibly swish restaurant-cumbar. There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench
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Moon Bar look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, completewith bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails or new latitude wines with the best ofhighflying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – wide-screen city vistas.
MOON BAR [MAP 5/K8] 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfectspot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on
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Octave a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too.
OCTAVE [MAP 3/S10] 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back some of Octave’s punchy, refreshing cocktails. The Thai Mojito (B320) starts things off in a way that’s familiar enough but well-executed, combining the standards of white rum, basil and lime with spicy mango, adding a zingy twist to the established mojito formula. More innovative still is the Bloom Over The Roof (B320), which fuses Red Berry Tea-flavoured vodka with fresh mint leaves and elderflower syrup. It might seem a little flowery but the overall effect is a seriously drinkable concoction that cuts right through the humidity.
RED SKY [MAP 4/F3] 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelresorts.com 5pm-1am Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand
The Speakeasy Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slow-cooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. It’s not cheap, but the daily happy hours (buy one get one drink on selected wine, beer and cocktails from 5pm-7pm).
THE SPEAKEASY [MAP 4/J6] Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. A long international snack menu stands out for decent portions at reasonable prices; spirits (from B270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B300-B600 a glass, while cocktails (from B 290) include homemade vodka infusions.
Woo Bar characterise the hotel franchise. It’s chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, spacious enough to find a seat without being echoey and without atmosphere. And, most importantly, the cocktails pass with flying colours, some inventive signature drinks rubbing shoulders with well-executed standard tipples. The Bliss (B325), which comes from the bartenders at W Hotel in New York, combines Ciroc vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, mint and fresh ginger. You might struggle to stop at just one.
BARS APOTEKA [MAP 3/E8] 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight As you may have guessed, the name is based on an outdated word for pharmacist and the place is meant to emulate a 19th century apothecary. Unsurprisingly, it has an old-school feel and an awesome live up of live music. There are high ceilings, red brick walls and Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde being projected onto the wall. Indoor seating is a mix of tall tables with studded chairs, and long tables for larger groups along the main wall. Large cases filled with vintagecoloured bottles of medicine flank the bar. The outdoor seating is mellow – a wooden patio with some cozy furniture
WOO BAR [MAP 5/G7]
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W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok | Sun-Wed 9am1am, Thurs-Sat 9am-2am Located on the ground floor of the W Hotel, Woo Bar has all of the flair and emphasis on design that has come to
Apoteka bangkok101.com
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Bamboo Bar that could be a nice place to curl up on a date or meet some friends for a smoke and a beer. Drink selection includes a nice selection of beer (the Framboise Ale at B250 is delightful), Heineken for just B135, and custom cocktails cost you B230. Keep your eyes peeled for the whisky and cigar lounge: a room hidden off to the side of the staircase. With muted green brocade on the walls, low leather couches, and Johnnie Walker in glass cases, this space is available for private parties or just chill sessions.
BAMBOO BAR [MAP 5/B4] The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave 0 2659 9000 | mandarinoriental.com Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s never theless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of resident songstresses who rotate with the seasons. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bar tenders and served by a superb staff. Ideal for a boozy night on your honeymoon.
Hemingwat’s bangkok101.com
House of Beers
HEMINGWAY’S [MAP 3/J10] Sukhumvit Soi 14 (1 minute from BTS Asoke exit 4) | 0 2653 3900 | hemingwaysbangkok. com | 11.30am-1am Themed on the places that featured large in the great author’s life, and on the food and drink he so dearly loved, Hemingway’s restaurant and bar is situated in a beautiful 100-year-old golden teakwood house. Indeed, the venue exudes a palpable oldworld colonial charm. Despite its proximity to the busy Asoke junction, it somehow manages to maintain an air of solitude. Yet there’s a contradiction at play, because from the romantic Hideaway Lounge and Marlin Boulevard balcony upstairs to the snug Habana bar and Spanish Garden downstairs, Hemingway’s is constantly bustling and alive with conversation. This is because it is the premier choice for meals and drinks throughout the day and for post-work beers and cocktails. There’s a different drink special each night, from Margarita Monday’s to beers on Wolfpack Wednesdays. And, thankfully, long happy hours still exist here (weekdays from 4pm to 8pm, weekends from 12 noon to 8pm), with the price of a beer or a glass of wine starting at B95.
HOUSE OF BEERS [MAP 3/R6] Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 0 2392 3513 | 11am-midnight If you fancy something that suits your palate a little more than the limited selection of Thai beers, there are ubiquitous, crowded “Irish” and “British” theme pubs or several Clouds Cheap Charlie’s sprawling German beer gardens around town. But the most varied and numerous quality beers in the world are brewed in Belgium – and it’s been that way since Belgian monasteries started doing so in the Middle Ages. House of Beers, in the corner of Penny’s Balcony on Thong Lo, offers all sorts of them, from pale ales, like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden, to esoteric, doubly
N IGHTLI FE
Spasso fermented specials, like Kwak, plus fruit beers. The liquid refreshment also comes augmented by Belgian fries and Tapasstyle bar snacks.
SPASSO [MAP 8/L13] Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm- 2.30am There’s no shortage of hotel bars in Bangkok but Spasso, on the ground floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan has been around for 21 years and remains a favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it presents as a sedate Italian restaurant but after hours, after it transforms into a club and cocktail bar, it really hits its stride, revelling in its energetic, uninhibited atmosphere. The layout is unconventional – an open-plan foyer and dining area narrows into a dancefloor, flanked by two horseshoe-shaped bars. It has the effect of funnelling all the action between the bars and on to the dancefloor. Spasso is not so much for Bangkok scenesters – its selling point is that it’s slightly wild and the live band does its best to whip partygoers into even higher spirits.
VIVA AVIV River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 0 2639 6305 vivaaviv. com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade, inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic look, the bar was initially looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek. Their ‘Rough Cut’ Signatures, many are pleasingly heavy on the rum, are among the real highlights. F EBRUA RY 2015 | 95
96 | F EBRUA RY 2015
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TAWN C By Molly Lanscombe
T
awn C. is always a go-to for a ‘blow-them-away’ frock. While many designers seem to prefer designs that are challenging for the mere mortal to wear – yes, crop tops, cut-away dresses and cocoon-shoulders, I’m talking about you – Tawn C. obviously loves the female form, and his designs set it off a treat. The latest Autumn/Winter collection, The Midnight Garden, is heavily influenced by those dreamy Halston dresses we all think of By Gaby Doman when daydreaming of the stylish seventies. Think flowing dresses with plenty of movement pulled in at the waist, gold lame and even a jumpsuit. Who needs to rummage through musty vintage shops when you can getxxxxx something xxxxxxfabulous, xxxxx brand new and entirely free of moth damage? xxx While jumpsuits xxx and lame may lead you to believe this collection is morexxx dress-up-box than sophisticated and stylish, you couldn’t be more wrong. There’s a timelessness about these feminine designs – as there tends to be with any design that genuinely flatters a woman’s AVAILABLE AT: figure. Experimental designers, take note. The colour palate is simple and adds glamour and richness to the line; royal xxxpurple, black and just enough shimmering gold and metallic hues toxxx make it fun and luxe, but never over the top. Thexxx collection was inspired by Tawn C’s imaginings of a stylish woman’s trip to Paris, and if you’re planning a glamorous evening in the City xxxweb of Light, winding up with a stroll through a perfectly lit Place de la Concorde, then the collection’s pussycat bow detailing, lacy blouses, Chanel-esque tweed jacket and a ruffled full-length waterfall skirt completes an elegant picture. With this collection each piece has enough of a quirk to keep it relevant, but also still classic enough to keep as a hot favourite in your wardrobe for years to come. I can’t wait to stock my wardrobe with structured, sweeping skirts, vampish see-through lace shirts, and mohair jackets. Prepare to be seriously seduced.
x
Tawn C is available at: Tawn C. Flagship Store, Gaysorn Shopping Centre, 3rd floor. 0 2656 2108 Tawn C. Closet Boutique, Central Chidlom Department Store, 2nd floor, Thai Designer Zone, 08 0262 5556, tawn-c.com
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SHOPPING
unique boutique
Say it With Flowers A
mong Bangkok’s glitterati, Plaza Athénée Bangkok, a Royal Méridien Hotel, is a favourite downtown location for glamorous wedding receptions and anniversary parties. One of the reasons for this is the reputation of the florists at the hotel’s flower shop, Athénée Flower, which is conviently situated opposite the dedicated Wedding Gallery. Garlands, posies or bouquets, the shop’s team of floral specialists is adept at matching blooms to the style of the client’s wedding function or event. So much so that the hotel decided to open what was previously only an in-house service to the public in early 2013. Athénée Flower has a cozy boutique-style feel and a wonderful fragrance thanks to the many colourful florals on display. Here unique arrangements are created in many forms using a mix of indigenous and freshly imported blooms, all displayed in splendid locally made vases. The kaleidoscope of fresh flowers available include roses, orchids, hydrangeas, gerbera, and various types of lily. Given enough time (at least 24 hours, and depending on the season), certain non-indigenous flowers can also be ordered from overseas. Athénée Flower caters to almost any type of large event, themed or otherwise, but delivery service outside the hotel is unavailable. Still, if you’re looking to make a romantic impression on that someone special this Valentine’s Day, drop by the shop for a handcrafted bouquet. 98 | F EBRUA RY 2015
ATHENEE FLOWER AT PLAZA ATHÉNÉE BANGKOK, A ROYAL MÉRIDIEN HOTEL [MAP 5/G4] 61 Wireless Rd (Witthayu) | 0 2650 8800 | plazaatheneebangkok. com/forms/atheneeflower | Mon-Sun 9am-6pm
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spotlight tailor
SHOPPING
Tailor on Ten F
ounded in 2010, Tailor on Ten is a bit of a misnomer. The shop, owned by brothers Ben and Alex Cole, is actually located in a quaint and quiet townhouse on Sukhumvit Soi 8, but the confusing name has a reason for being. “We opened as a small shop on Soi 10,” says Ben Cole. “Within six months, the store had gained such traction that we were measuring people on the sidewalk. That’s when we moved to our current location on Soi 8, but decided to keep the name. We recently expanded the shop with another house, and have no plans to stop there.” In business just a few years, Tailor on Ten has already earned a reputation for honesty, service, and quality in a market that often lacks those values. That’s because the brothers are particular, and not only about their fabrics. They hand-pick every thread, button, and interlining of their suits, and all tailoring is done in-house — patrons can even watch the master cutter at work. The employees at Tailor on Ten are all salaried, so fluctuations between the high and low seasons don’t leave them scrambling for work. This assurance keeps the team stable, happy, and performing at a high level, consistently providing customers with impeccable menswear. The brothers’ overall commitment to integrity shines even brighter in light of their customer service, which helped net them honours at the inaugural Expat Entrepreneur Awards in 2014. “All of our clients are bangkok101.com
notable customers,” says Cole. “We pride ourselves on building real relationships with everyone. And we really do get every type, from backpackers to bird watchers, general managers to musical artists, students to charity directors.” Suit fabrics are sourced from renowned clothiers like Vitale Barberis Canonico, Trabaldo Togna, Holland & Sherry (of Savile Row), and Dormeuil. All shirts are 100 percent cotton, the shop favourite coming from Thomas Mason, a British-heritage brand made in Italy. A range of Irish and Japanese linen is also available for suits and shirts. Recently, the shop launched an accessories line, with custom belts, Italian ties, and pocket squares, to name a few. For a first suit, production takes about a week, with around three fittings. “We keep all measurements on file and offer a full-featured online store for easy ordering,” says Cole. Since many customers live outside Bangkok (some of whom fly in specifically to visit Tailor on Ten), this level of service goes a long way towards maintaining lifelong relationships — precisely what the brothers have set out to achieve.
TAILOR ON TEN
[MAP 3/G10]
93 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 8 | 08 4877 1543 tailoronten.com
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SHOPPING
listings
Duly
TAILOR DULY [MAP 3/Q10] 55/2 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2672 2891 | 10am7pm daily | laladuly.co.th Duly recently opened a new boutique at the 2nd floor, Royal Wing of the Siam Kempinski Hotel behind Siam Square. The original stand-alone shop on Sukhumvit Road was also renovated in 2011 to reflect Duly’s pre-eminent position as Bangkok’s leading shirt maker. The real draw here is the made-to-measure service that allows customers to create their own perfect shirt with no limits. Shirt patterns can be contoured to fit, collars picked from 22 different style and cuffs from 10. The store stocks over 30 types of button and also offers a monogramming service.
JULY TAILOR [MAP 5/K6] 30/6 Saladang Rd | 0 2233 0171 | Mon-Sat 9.30pm-6pm | julytailor.com/en Established by Nui Sae Lui in 1939, today July Tailor is run by his third son, Sompop Louilarpprasert. July Tailor is famous for the tailoring of suits and royal patterns with fine and delicate workmanship. It also prides itself on punctual delivery. This is perhaps why it was selected as a tailor to the Thai royal family. The store also enjoys a fine reputation among high-level local and international government officials, politicians and businessmen. Use of fine cloths, lining materials and accessories imported from Italy ensures comfort while hand stitching ensures excellent workmanship and fit and the unique bespoke look.
LUCKY ANGEL [MAP 4/M5] 26-26/4 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2650 7577 | MonSat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-8pm Boyce, the principal at Lucky Angel, does a fine job of explaining fabrics, cuts, timetable and prices to customers. He and his wife go out of their way to 10 0 | F EBRUA RY 2015
Moon River by VJ help clients select the best materials for their needs. An 18-year veteran of the business, he takes around 30 measurements when sizing you up for a suit and will constantly ask questions regarding your preferences as he goes about his work. Only opened 3 years ago, the shop already has a loyal clientele and prides itself on its repeat business and comprehensive after-sales service.
MOON RIVER BY VJ [MAP 3/H10] 288 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2229 4457 Mon-Sun 10am-9pm | moonriverbyvj.com Suits ordered at the majority of Bangkok tailors are crafted away from the retail shop, frequently at backstreet workshops handling jobs from several different tailors. What distinguishes Moon River by VJ from its competitors is that the business has its own in-house workshop, enabling it to have better quality control. This also means that the tailors can be present during fittings, so they really understand the changes that need to be made. The shop, which caters to both men and women, has been providing locals, expats and visitors with bespoke attire since 1981 and carries a large inventory of fabrics and styles suitable for any budget.
NARIN COUTURE [MAP 3/G10] 180 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2251 9237 | Mon-Sat 10.30am-9pm (last fitting at 8pm) narin-couture.com B. Narin of Narin Couture graduated from Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and spent five years working in Paris before returning home to open his own boutique tailoring service. His background is undoubtedly one of the reasons his suits receive high marks for style. He and his master cutters, many of whom have over 30 years of experience, turn out elegant evening gowns and immaculate suits in top quality fabrics. Some of Narin’s creations
Narin Couture have even made it onto the silver screen, being worn by movie stars in Hollywood blockbusters.
PERRY’S [MAP 5/K5] 2/1 Silom Rd | 0 2233 9236, 0 2267 0622 Mon-Sat 9.30am-8pm | perry.tailor@gmail.com Legendary tailor Perry’s has been going strong for four decades. It is run by genial septuagenarian twin brothers Narong and Phonchai, both of whom are known for their ability to measure and cut ‘by the eye’. They maintain superb quality through their own workshop, where 30 plus artisans use only imported fabrics – the likes of Ermenegildo Zenga, Loro Piana, Dormeuil and Lanificio from Switzerland, Italy and England. Among their more illustrious clients they count the Duke of Edinburgh, former UN Secretary General Boutros Boutros-Ghali and late Hollywood star Robin Williams. It takes from one to two weeks for Perry’s to make a two-piece suit, which will run to B20000 or more depending on the material selected.
PINKY [MAP 4/L5] Mahatun Plaza Arcade | 888/40 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2253 6328 | Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm (Sunday’s by appointment) pinkytailor.com Established since 1980, at Pinky you will find 3 floors of high-quality fabrics. The shop caters to ladies and gents and offers
Perry’s bangkok101.com
listings
Pinky exceptional tailoring for quality trousers, suits, tuxedos, uniforms, overcoats, skirts and dresses. A specialty here though is shirts, and as the business points out on its website, shirts are a staple part of any person’s wardrobe. From formal dress shirts and business wear through to high fashion and casual, the shirt is the ideal way to express personality, no matter what the occasion. Popular with visiting dignitaries and local diplomats, Pinky also has a loyal repeat clientele.
RAJAWONGSE [MAP 3/E10] 130 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2255 3714 | Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm | dress-for-success.com At Rajawongse, a favourite of visiting
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Rajawongse statesman and ambassadors, it is possible to create your own design from a wide array of fabrics and accessories. Traditional to contemporary, dramatic to exotic, classic to original, you pick your preferred style of garment and fabrics and tailors Jesse and Victor will create it. Says Jesse, “It is our belief that every single customer should be treated like a V.I.P. From formal wear to business suits and sport coats, our motto always holds true: dress like a winner and you’ll be treated like one.”
UNIVERSAL TAILORS [MAP 5/F5] 252/2 Silom Rd | 08 1611 2313 | Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 12pm-6pm | universaltailor.com
SHOPPING
Universal Tailors Run by the father-and-son team of Ronnie and Raj Singh, for over 30 years Universal Tailors have produced beautifully made garments hand-crafted to a perfect fit. They have their own in-house tailors, allowing them to offer a truly bespoke experience. Fabrics range from 100% wool to luxury weaves from Italian mills. Suits are constructed using high-end horse hair interlining and canvassing, pure cotton German shoulder pads, Bemberg linings and horn buttons. Shirt fabrics range from 100% cotton of 60/1 ply to 120/2 ply in twill, oxford and poplin weaves. These are double stitched and come with real mother of pearl buttons.
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treatment
Devarana Spa
DEVARANA SPA [MAP 5/L5] Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 0 2636 3596 | devaranaspa.com | $$$
Devarana offers a variety of pampering treatments using a combination of East meets West aromatherapy and massage. Delicate massage oils are organically developed and blended using high quality natural ingredients to enhance relaxation and feelings of well-being. The Devarana Signature Massage (B3200++/1 hr 30 mins; B3900++/2 hrs) is a unique therapy that focuses on muscle relief and balancing the body’s energy pathways through a combination of Ayurvedic, Shiatsu and Swedish massage. The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience (B5000++/2 hrs 30 mins) is also highly recommended. It features a Devarana body scrub and massage and ends with a restorative soak in a bath infused with fresh pink lotus and champaca petals. Alternatively, if you’re pushed for time, try the Halo-Halo body wrap and facial scrub (B2100++/1 hr).
CENVAREE SPA [MAP 4/F7] Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 25F Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd 0 2769 1234 | spacenvaree.com | $$$$
For anyone who has had the pleasure of visiting a high-end spa in Thailand,
Cenvaree Spa 102 | F EBRUA RY 2015
Theta State Float Center Cenvaree’s interior will be familiar enough, furnished in dark teak wood and perfumed with hints of jasmine and sandalwood. The selection here is vast. Try the evocatively named Salt Pot Muscles Melter (B2800 for 90 mins), designed to flush all traces of tension from a tired frame. The Thai Harmony Four Hands Massage (B3000 for 90 mins) involves two expert Thai therapists working in unison to deliver a feeling of intense relaxation. Another alternative is the Shirobhyanga, or Indian Head Massage (B1200 for 60 mins). Often during treatments, after the back and legs and have been kneaded into putty, it’s the light finish on the neck and scalp that is most effective. Here, you have the opportunity to extend that for an entire hour.
THETA STATE FLOAT CENTER [MAP 3/N10]
88/1 24th Avenue Mall, Sukhumvit Soi 24 0 2261 7943 | thetastatefloat.com
‘Samadhi tanks’ enjoyed a brief heyday in the 1970s following the publication of Dr John Lilly’s hallucinatory sensory-deprivation experiments in The Center of the Cyclone. Pro athletes discovered more recently that flotation tank sessions miraculously
Sanctuary Wellness and Spa speed up recovery and healing. The womblike experience encourages theta brain waves, associated with deep relaxation and meditation. Meanwhile the body experiences total relief from pressure points, while absorbing a dense, medical-grade salt mixture that conditions skin and relieves muscle tension. We found floating for an hour or two in the soundproof, lightproof, temperature-controlled chambers to be the perfect antidote to frenetic Bangkok. Prices start at 1,550 baht per hour with a minimum three-float purchase.
SANCTUARY WELLNESS AND SPA [MAP 3/K11]
Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit 18 | 0 261 7100 rembrandtbkk.com | open daily 9am-10pm $$$
Sanctuary Wellness and Spa at Rembrandt Hotel has several pampering therapies, one of which is a great Traditional Thai Massage (B900/60 min, B1200/90 min) that stretches the muscles and uses pressure to stimulate the energy meridians of the body. It is one of several therapies at the spa designed to alleviate physical tiredness, aches and pains. Many others provide the sense of relaxation and peace that spa-goers look for. The Jet Lag Massage (B2500/90 min) helps to rebalance your body after a long flight and includes a foot mask to soothe swollen legs and feet, and an eye mask to rejuvenate tired skin around the eyes. Other recommendations are the Sport Massage (B1500/60 min, B2000/90 min), the Thai Herbal Compress (B1900/90 min), and the Hot Stone Massage (B2500/90 min). SPA COSTS $ :: under B600 $$ :: B600-B1000 $$$ :: B1000-B2000 $$$$ :: B2000+
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treatment
WELLN ESS
Anantara Spa - Packaged to Perfection BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
S
ituated in the verdant gardens of Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, Anantara Spa ticks all the boxes when it comes to transporting guests on a journey of luxurious pampering. According to Elizabeth Dass-Brown, spa enthusiast and Director of Marketing Communications at the resort, here the goal is not simply to ease tired muscles through physical massage, rather it is to promote a much broader sense of wellbeing. The journey begins as you approach the spa facilities on a path that meanders through the resort’s exotic gardens, the vibe subtly switching from urban jungle to peaceful rainforest with every step. Centered on two finely appointed suits with large bathtubs and private outdoor areas where massage can be enjoyed, the complex also has seven deluxe treatment rooms. These tranquil interiors, featuring predominantly contemporary Thai décor dominated by earth tones, further engender a sense of relaxation. An extensive list of treatment packages awaits, with options covering health and beauty therapies or a combination of both. The various massages focus on restoring physical balance and harmony by easing knotted bangkok101.com
muscles and stimulating blood flow along the meridian lines. Also known as acupressure corridors, the meridians are pathways through which energy flows around the body. Prior to core massage, many of the treatments – which use imported premium blend Elemis spa products – begin with a soothing foot scrub and milk bath. Particularly recommended is the exceptional Anantara Signature Massage (90 min/B3900). It combines bodywork using a special formula hot oil for deep muscle relaxation and meridian flow with stomach-focused detox massage designed to boost digestion and clear toxins from your system. The treatment ends with a soothing head massage. Other blissful packages worth considering include Journey of Siam (190 min/B5500), Stress Release Massage (90 min/B3500), and River Stone Back Massage (60 min/B4000). Poolside and in-room spa treatments are also available.
ANANTARA SPA AT ANANTARA BANGKOK RIVERSIDE RESORT & SPA 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2476 0022 Ext. 1563 | spa.anantara.com
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SIGHTSEEING a Bang Pa-In Summer Palace b The Khao Khiao Open Zoo c The Si Racha Tiger Farm d Pattaya Shooting Park e Nong Nooch Tropical Botanical Garden f Mimosa Pattaya g Kanchanaburi War Cemetery h Bridge over the river Kwai i Erawan National Park j Sai Yok National Park k Ancient Siam l Bueng Chawak Aquarium
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MUSEUMS 1 Teddy Bear Museum 2 The Ripley's believe It or Not Odditorium 3 Art in Paradise 4 Thai Human Imagery Museum 5 Museum of Chong Khaokad ENTERTAINMENT 1 Scuba Dawgs Pattaya 2 Alcazar Cabaret 3 Pattaya Water Park
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13
PUBS 11 The Hanrahans 12 The Pickled Liver 13 The Robin Hood 14 The Royal Oak NIGHTLIFE 4 Long Table 5 Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's
9
Octave WTF 17 Alchemist 18 The ChindAsia 20 The Iron Fairies 21 Clouds 22 Fat Gut'z 23 Shades of Retro 25 diVino 28 Le Bar de L'Hotel 29 W XYZ 30 Face Bar 19
31
Marshmallow Oskar Bistro 33 Tuba 35 Apoteka 36 Water Library 37 Gossip Bar 38 Nest 39 Above Eleven 32
EMBASSIES IN India IR Iran LK Sri Lanka PH Philippines QA Qatar UA Ukraine NO Norway NZ New Zealand BG Bulgaria
F EBRUA RY 2015 | 107
MAP 4 Siam / Chit Lom
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108 | F EBRUA RY 2015
HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate 6 Novotel Platinum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan 8 The Four Seasons 9 The St. Regis 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 15 Hotel Muse 16 Okura Prestige 17 Centara Watergate Pavillion 18 Berkeley Hotel Bangkok
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ARTS & CULTURE 1 BACC – Bangkok Art and Culture Centre 2 Tonson Gallery SIGHTSEEING a Jim Thomson House b Museum of Imagery Technology c Madame Tussauds d Queen Savang Vadhana Museum e Siam Ocean World f Ganesha and Trimurti Shrine g Erawan Shrine h Goddess Tubtim Shrine NIGHTLIFE a Hard Rock Cafe b Red Sky Bar
Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar d P&L Club e Café Trio f Hyde & Seek c
MALLS 1 MBK 2 Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza 6 Platinum Fashion Mall 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen @ CentralWorld 9 Palladium Pratunam 10 Gaysorn 11 Erawan Plaza 12 The Peninsula Plaza 13 Amarin Plaza 14 Central Chidlom 15 All Seasons Place 16 Central Embassy
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BARS WITH VIEWS a Threesixty d Sky Bar o Panorama p Moon Bar NIGHTLIFE b La Casa Del Habano c Bamboo Bar f Barley Bistro & Bar g Eat Me j Tapas PUBS e Jameson's h The Pintsman l Molly Malone's m The Barbican n O'Reilly's
ARTS & CULTURE 1 Serindia Gallery 2 Silom Galleria: Number 1 Gallery, Tang Contemporary Art, Taivibu Gallery, Gossip Gallery 3 H Gallery 4 Bangkokian Museum Shopping 1 Robinsons 2 River City Shopping 3 Silom Village 4 Silom / Patpong Night-Market 5 Jim Thompson Store
EMBASSIES AT Austria AU Australia BE Belgium CA Canada CE Germany GR Greece FR France MY Malaysia MX Mexico MM Myanmar PT Portugal SG Singapore
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SIGHTSEEING a Snake Farm b MR Kukrit’s House
F EBRUA RY 2015 | 109
MAP 6 Yaowarat / Pahurat (Chinatown & Little India ) A
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110 | F EBRUA RY 2015
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F EBRUA RY 2015 | 111
M Y B A N G KO K
Atsuyuki Katsuyama
Restaurateur Atsuyuki Katsuyama is about to embark on a trek that few have ever tried, let alone finished. The Japanese-born Bangkok resident better known as ‘K’ will run over 5000 kilometres across the United States in just 80 days, starting in Santa Monica, California, and ending in New York. During his epic journey, which kicks off on April 25, he will be raising money for two Thai charities. How long has “K’s Run Across the USA” been in the works? I’ve been running for 30 years. In that time, I’ve done 101 full or ultra marathons. The more races I ran and the more devoted to the sport I became, the more the idea of running the ultimate distance [across a continent] came to me. At first, it was just a vague idea. But, at the end of 2013, my dream became real. I chose April 25, my 48th birthday, to start my run across North America. Where do you run in Bangkok – especially during your incredible 70k runs every Tuesday? In preparation for my journey, I’ve started to run 20 kilometres each day, Wednesday through Monday, and 70 kilometres on Tuesdays. Most of the time I run in the two big parks – Lumpini and Benjakiti. I live nearby, and there is a connecting path between them, so it’s easy. When I do my long runs, I branch out. There are three parks near BTS Mo Chit that I can connect to make a big 10-kilometre loop. I always run in the parks. Runners shouldn’t venture into the streets, as it’s very dangerous with all those cars and motorcycles, which seem to love to mess with pedestrians, especially runners. How long have you been here, and what brought you to Bangkok in the first place? I’ve been living in Bangkok for five years. I’m originally from Japan, but my wife is Thai. I was working 112 | F EBRUA RY 2015
in a Japanese company for 20 years, and Bangkok was my last foreign assignment. Finally, after 20 years, enough was enough. When I resigned, my wife and I did something we’ve always wanted to do – we started a vegan café on Pan Road called Bonita Café and Social Club.
to what I was doing before. So I immediately went vegan. That American couple changed my life. Without them, Bonita Café wouldn’t exist. And now I feel so full of energy, so light, physically and ethically, because I know that my choices aren’t causing animals to suffer.
How do you find time and energy to manage a business? This may sound strange, but I try not to get tired when I’m running. And I don’t feel tired. I run “light,” not wasting energy with heavy, plodding steps. When I’m in training mode, I cut out all unnecessary activities in my daily life. I focus on sleeping, eating, running, working, and getting ready for the major task ahead of me. And I stay disciplined. I can’t say, “Oh, I’m tired because of my training, so I don’t have energy to work.” It’s my sense of responsibility. No excuses.
How does that affect where you go to eat in Bangkok? Non-vegans might think that I have a small choice in what I can eat. But I eat a lot. I’ve never had a problem finding food. If we are creative, we can come up with lots of choices. I go to all kinds of restaurants and simply pick items that are not animal-based.
When and why did you decide to go vegan? It was six years ago, and it was a sudden change. Before then, I ate everything. I thought animal-based products gave me energy. Then, one day, when I was living in California, I had a chance to talk to an American couple, both vegan runners. I loved the way they explained veganism. They said we can actually gain energy by avoiding heavy animal-based foods, and this energy would improve our performance. I always love to try something new. If I don’t like it, I can go back
How did you choose the charities you are supporting? My friends introduced me to them. Both organizations make dreams come true, no matter how big or small. (Hug and Smile supports people living with HIV, and Wishing Well Thailand helps people with cancer.) Some are simple dreams, like “I want to see the ocean.” We all have dreams, and they’re all important. Their size doesn’t matter. So many people are helping make my dream come true. Now, I want to help make dreams come true for other people.
To follow Atsuyuki’s run across America and to donate to the worthy causes he is supporting, visit krunusa.wordpress.com
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