The Soulful Science of Thai Cuisine: Lotus Thailand’s culinary repertoire has always been a blend of art and science. At Ruen Urai – “the House of Gold” – dishes are prepared with passion and flair based on an intimate knowledge of ingredients and their flavours, textures, and aromas. Paying homage to the doctor of herbal medicine who originally resided in the century-old golden teakwood house in which the restaurant is located, our Thai gourmet voyage continues to explore zesty herbs and spices and their meanings and usage. Take the lotus flower. It signifies purity, spiritual awakening and deep Buddhist faith. It is also a wholly edible species and highly prized for its crisp roots and seeds, which are high in dietary fibre, vitamins and minerals, and are believed to promote longevity. Mild-tasting petals can be used in lieu of vegetable leaves for dishes such as mieng. Mieng Bussabong combines traditional mieng condiments with salmon served on lotus petals. This beautiful creation is opulent in flavours and meaning. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel opens from 12 noon to 11 p.m. 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
W
e begin a new year with renewed optimism. Despite the ups and downs of the past 12 months, and the frankly misplaced pessimism attached to Thailand in overseas media, we know Bangkok is once again booming. You only have to look at the spate of top-class restaurant openings in 2014 to see this – Sensi, The Capital by Water Library, J’Aime at U Sathorn, Savelberg, and L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon being a few prime examples. This year promises to be even more dynamic in terms of new dining, entertainment and travel options and, as always, we’ll be here to report on all the innovative lifestyle developments taking place in the city and beyond. Speaking of which, in this issue we look at the rise of co-working spaces in the Big Mango, we go intergalactic at a one-off NASA exhibition in Bangkok and, back on terra firma, we visit the historic Wat Ket district of Chiang Mai and get taken for a ride across the Mongolian steppes. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks is all it
?
WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.
Mason Florence Publisher
Happy New Year!
B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
JA N UA RY 2015 | 3
CONTRIBUTORS
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Matt Wilde editor
Craig Sauers Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
Food and travel writer HOWARD RICHARDSON lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ , the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.
associate editor
Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large
Joe Cummings art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Bill Bredesen, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Dave Stamboulis, Keith Mundy, Tom Sturrock, Adam O’Keefe contributing photographers
Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi British-born writer-artist STEVEN PETTIFOR stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.
AVAILABLE AT:
bangkok101.com
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Very Thai author PHILIP CORNWEL-SMITH is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.
director sales and marketing
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon
director business development
Willem Deenik circulation
Prajak Manee-In published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
S E PJ A TN EM UA B ERRY 22001145 | 5
CONTENTS 48
22 44
18
CITY PULSE
48 over the border:
8 metro beat
cutting the cheese
87 nightlife news
12 hot plates: j’aime by
mongolian style
88 review: hemingway’s 90 nightlife listings
jean-michel lorain 14 out and about:
NIGHTLIFE
ART & CULTURE
hot to trot
54 exhibition highlights
18 best of bangkok:
56 interview: somboon
dare to share
homtientong
22 best of bangkok:
58 cheat notes
boldly going to ladprao
60 photo feature:
56
bangkok through a
SNAPSHOTS
window
26 tom’s two satang
94
28 very thai
FOOD & DRINK
29 thailand at random
67 food & drink news
94 new collection: skin
30 joe’s bangkok
68 festive meal deals
on skin: a revolutionary
32 bizarre thailand
69 restaurant reviews/
jigsaw
34 temples, historic
previews: the capital by
96 unique boutique:
buildings, museums and
water library, panorama,
abode
parks
kai, vertigo, the kitchen
97 spotlight tailor:
table, eathai
pinky tailor
SHOPPING
TRAVEL
77 eat like nym
40 up country now
78 in the kitchen:
42 hotel review
jess barnes
100 spa listings
44 up country escape:
80 restaurant listings
101 banyan tree spa
old-school chiang mai
84 james suckling visits bangkok
69
WELLNESS
REFERENCE 104 maps 112 my bangkok: chawadee nualkhair
ON THE COVER ‘Happy New Year’, an illustration by artist Patcharin ‘Jeed’ Jitviriyanon. See more of Jeed’s work at her debute exhibition at Serindia Gallery. On display until January 11, 2015. 6 | JA N UA RY 2015
bangkok101.com
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metro beat
by Craig Sauers
POP & ROCK Avenged Sevenfold Impact Arena welcomes chart-topping shredders Avenged Sevenfold to Bangkok on January 20 (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 0 2262 3838). Touring in support of their latest album, Hail to the King, the heavy metal band returns to Thailand on the heels of a second consecutive No. 1 debut on the Billboard Top 200. Tickets range from B1500 to B2700.
Michael Bublé Michael Bublé makes his long-awaited return to Thailand on January 24, bringing his smooth voice and style to Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 0 2262 3838). The consummate entertainer has released six albums, including the 2013 release To Be Loved, an album he describes as the best he’s ever made. He’ll sing all the hits from his latest album, but he’ll also be performing covers of his favourite artists’ songs, like You Make Me Feel So Young by Frank Sinatra, the Bee Gees’ To Love Somebody, and Who’s Lovin’ You by the Jackson Five. Pick up your tickets from Thai Ticket Major (thaiticketmajor.com, B2000-6500). Gates open at 7 and the show starts at 7:30. British indie rockers The 1975, whose star has risen after the release of hit singles “Chocolate” and “Girls,” visit Bangkok for a one-night-only performance at Centrepoint Studio on January 25 (Sukhumvit 105, Soi Lasalle). Tickets are available at Thai Ticket Major (B2000-3000, thaiticketmajor.com, 0 2262 3456). Doors open at 6 and the show starts at 7 pm. 8 | JA N UA RY 2015
Super Junior K-Pop prodigies Super Junior hit the stage at Impact Arena for two shows this January, breaking hearts with their glitz, glamour, and boyish good looks (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 0 2262 3838). On a leg of their world tour, ‘SUPER SHOW 6’ in Bangkok, the group will perform at 6 pm on Saturday, January 10, and 4 pm on Sunday, January 11. Ticket prices run between B1200 and B6000. Doors open 30 minutes before the show each evening. bangkok101.com
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ART
Tropikos On January 24, the “Tropikos” Collaboration kicks off at HOF Art Space (1588/288-290, W District, Sukhumvit Rd, Prakanong, 0 2178 0095). Sponsored by the Embassy of Brazil, the exhibition highlights the contemporary work of Brazilian artists André Mendes, Fernando Franciosi, and Juan Parada, and Thai artists Chalit Nakpawan, Torlarp Larpjaroensook, and Jackkrit Anatakul. Unified by their upbringings in the tropics, as well as a shared focus on colourful imagery, respect for nature, and conceptual modernism, the artists showcase a connection that extends beyond ethnic and political borders. Throughout January at the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, guests are invited to scour the Pop-Up Art Library at The Reading Room (7th Fl., BACC, Rama I Rd, 0 2214 6630-8). Books on contemporary art and culture from 12 libraries around Bangkok will be available, in one place, for free public use.
JAZZ
NIGHTLIFE
On January 24, head over to the National Gallery (4 Chao Fa Rd, Chana Songkhram, 0 2282 2639-40) for the Winter Jazz and Arts Festival. Leading local acts from the popular Jazz Happens bar on Phra Arthit Road and TV show The Voice will provide live entertainment, but that’s not all. The festival also includes art exhibitions, art and music workshops, and a variety of stalls to explore for a B250 entrance fee.
EXHIBITIONS Head over to Lumpini Park between January 14 and 18 for the Thailand Tourism Festival. Put on by the Tourism Authority of Thailand, the fair will introduce a brand-new campaign – Discover Thainess – while promoting the Kingdom’s diverse attractions and building awareness among locals as well as operators. Millions of visitors are expected during the six-day event. bangkok101.com
DJ Borgeous American DJ Borgeous is on fire in the club scene right now, and he’s coming to LEVELS on January 15 (Sukhumvit Soi 11, 08 2308 3246). His hit single “Tsunami” took him to the top of the charts; songs like “Invincible” and “Celebration” have kept him there. With tracks built on multi-textured beats and a diverse house style, this wunderkind promises a night to remember. Tickets available at the door all night long. JA N UA RY 2015 | 9
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SHOPPING
FILM
Forget Me Not
Thai Craft Fair Support fair trade while updating your décor and wardrobe at the Thai Craft Fair. Taking place from 10 am to 3 pm on January 24, at the ‘L’ floor of the Jasmine City Building (Asoke, Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 23, thaicraft.org), the fair will offer shoppers a variety of handmade products all certified fair trade, meaning your purchases will support ethical practices in business.
The Goethe Institut of Thailand (18/1 Soi Goethe, Sathorn 1) delivers its annual wintertime treat: German Open Air Cinema. Once a week through February 17, dive into German culture in the Institut’s peaceful outdoor garden as movies like Forget Me Not and Akte Grüninger play on the big screen. All movies are in German with English subtitles and start at 7:30 pm. Best of all? No cost for entry and there’s free popcorn.
BEER & WINE
LECTURES Southeast Asian archeological heritage is in danger of disappearing, yet to many that danger remains in the dark. On January 8, Dr. Joyce White, an expert on the prehistory of the Mekong Basin, will give a talk on this topic at the Siam Society (131 Asoke Montri Rd, Sukhumvit 21, 0 2661 6470-7). “Archaeology of the Middle Mekong Basin: Will knowledge survive development and looting?” begins at 7:30 pm. Free entry for students and members, as well as their their spouses and children. B200 donation for non-members. The Bowring Treaty is fairly well-known in Thailand – the accord united Britain with the Kingdom of Siam – but little is ever spoken of Sir John Bowring, the diplomat who first established a relationship with King Mongkut. On Thursday, January 15, Philip Bowring will shine light on this integral historical figure at the Siam Society (131 Asoke Montri Rd, Sukhumvit 21, 0 2661 6470-7). His talk, “John Bowring: the Man Behind the Treaty,” will examine Sir Bowring’s character and touch on his broader contributions to East Asian history. The talk starts at 7:30pm. Free entry for students and members, as well as their spouses and children. B200 donation for nonmembers. 10 | JA N UA RY 2015
Mikkeller To celebrate its 1st anniversary, Mikkeller Bangkok is featuring a full week of “Tap Takeovers” and “Meet the Brewers” from January 26 to February 1 (26 Ekkamai 10 Yaek 2, 0 2381 9891). Enjoy yet another round of exclusive releases as well as a two-day craft beer celebration in which beer from more than 50 breweries will be on tap and hundreds of bottles, including limited editions, will be joyfully quaffed in Mikkeller’s garden. Join the Bangkok Wine Club for their recurring ‘Landmark Wine Fest’ on Friday, January 16, at the Landmark Hotel (BTS Nana, 138 Sukhumvit Rd, gee@orgathai.com). Savour all manner of reds and whites from around the world while socialising with like-minded wine-lovers. bangkok101.com
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hot plates
J’aime by
Jean-Michel Lorain By Howard Richardson
L
ate last year Jean-Michel Lorain, of La Côte Saint Jacques in France, became the first Chef with three Michelin Stars to open in Bangkok. And he sent an A-list team to oversee the launch. J’aime is run by Jean-Michel’s daughter, maître d’ Marine, and her partner chef Amerigo Sesti, a couple who met while working at another three-star restaurant, the Roux family’s Waterside Inn at Bray in the UK. And what a show they’re presenting. Ornamental tables are mounted on stands formed like upside down chandeliers; the ceiling is a parquet floor that presents a 3D optical illusion; and a central area partitioned by beaded curtains has no function, it’s just space. Above it are screw holes in the ceiling awaiting delivery of a piano which will hang upside down from the ceiling. The place is all upside down. It’s a large square room with full wall windows on two sides, a grand bar on another, and opposite an open kitchen. The floor is marble tiled, classically shaped chairs are in modernist grey and black, and the tables are dressed in linen. The whole exudes a relaxed, classical formality. The place settings have knives, forks and chopsticks, with a lazy Susan in the centre, which shows the intention for Asian-style servings to share. From a short a la carte menu and two tasting menus (six courses, B2880, plus B1050 with wine pairing; and nine courses B3850/B1400), some dishes – soups, for instance – come as single plates, others are three or four servings in small bowls. Standout dishes include red pepper and blood orange soup (B300), an unusual, light and refreshing combination with spicy depth. The citrus background is subtle and creamy salt arrives via goat’s cheese that has begun to melt in the warm broth. Baby onions add caramel sweetness and there’s a pleasant hit of rosemary and thyme from Provencal herb foam. We drank the lively Macon-Village Blanc, Louis Jadot 2011 (B350), one of eight wines by the glass (B290-B450), plus three sparklers (B390-B1200). The wider list (B1750-B14500) has its largest selection from France, but with labels too from many other regions. Other good plates included razor clams and sea urchin cream (B600), the beautifully cooked, finely sliced clams presented on half shells coated with gelée and topped with lots of colourful garnishes. From seafood to shellfood of the earth, countrystyle Burgundy snails (B980), likewise cooked tenderly, were served out of their shells in three small pots. They came with creamy parsley foam and a rich, lingering tomato fondue that was so good we tried to make it ourselves at home the following day! Among the desserts (three pieces/B420, five/B700) are a gateau opera with top quality chocolate and coffee flavours, and a delicately crisp mille-feuille Napoleon served with sharp berries against the cream. J’aime is an exciting venue that lives up to expectations with a pleasingly casual ambiance and exquisitely presented food packed with vibrant colours and flavours.
U SATHORN BANGKOK
[MAP 8/M18]
105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Rama IV | 0 2119 4888 uhotelsresorts.com | Daily 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm
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J U N E 2014 | 13
An early morning jog around Benjakiti Park
out & about
Hot to
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Trot
A new year marks a new beginning. It’s a chance to revamp routines, lace up those running shoes like you always swore you would, and trim excess weight gained over the holidays. But making good on the resolution to run isn’t always easy. At least not in Bangkok, says
R
elentless traffic. Choked sidewalks. Fierce and unyielding soi dogs. The search for open space, the struggle to get in with like-minded runners. Heat, insufferable heat — the sticky warmth that scales your back, grabbing you by the shoulders, wrapping its arms around your neck. A maxim of life in Thailand is that every problem, no matter how big or small, has a viable solution. When it comes to running outdoors, that maxim holds true. Walk past the soi dogs, avoiding eye contact. Carry bottled water when you run. If the heat and crowds are too much to bear, try running before sunrise or after sundown. Bangkok is, after all, a city of early mornings and late nights. A peaceful air distinguishes the predawn hours, a setting evocative of times gone by. The sidewalks are not yet crowded, the fruit vendors, trinket hawkers, and motorsai taxis setting up shop at a languid pace while the work-bound hoi polloi sleep, and the path remains
The idyllic, rarely visited Suan Wanataam bangkok101.com
CRAIG SAUERS.
clear enough for a runner to pass without breaking stride. Although the walkways are far from empty in the evening, the climate is at its most agreeable then. A soft breeze flows through skyscrapers and trees, streetlamps flicker on, and running becomes a surreal sensory experience. Finding a safe place to run, however, is often trickier than choosing when to run. Although the city doesn’t lack green spaces, parks fill up fast, especially after 5pm. Between dance aerobics, roving bicyclists and the sheer volume of walkers and joggers, the cross traffic can be difficult to navigate. In spite of this, there are plenty of great places to run, from the city centre to the suburbs. At the northern end of the BTS, the Chatuchak neighbourhood claims three semi-connected parks, each with long, winding loops. The eponymous Suan Chatuchak is the most famous, but the best of the bunch is Suan Wachirabenchathat, more commonly called Suan Rot Fai. A former golf course, this tree-dense park gets busy on
Lumpini Park changes stripes for a Christmas-themed fun run JA N UA RY 2015 | 15
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out & about
Light on traffic: the 800-metre loop around Benjasiri Park weekends, although it rarely feels overcrowded and there is ample space to stretch your legs. Linking Silom and Sukhumvit in central Bangkok, three parks with large green fields and lakes — Lumpini, Benjakiti, and the smaller Benjasiri — provide a muchneeded breath of fresh air in the frenzy of urban life. The virtues of these parks are well-documented, but a lesser known secret is that a 3-kilometre, car- and motorsai-free path runs along a canal from Benjakiti to Lumpini, giving pedestrians a safe way to connect the two. ‘The green mile,’ as it’s called, is not merely convenient, but rather essential to battling the doldrums of running lap after lap without a change of scenery. Those who live in the upper Sukhumvit area, from Phra Khanong to Bang Na, enjoy proximity to perhaps the grandest park in Bangkok. Suan Luang, or Rama IX Park, hides behind Seacon Square and Paradise Park, two industrial shopping complexes on Srinakarin Road. A silvery lake graces the interior and flower gardens line the nearly 5 kilometre path that traces the perimeter. Though further afield than the likes of Lumpini, this park is worth a trip, especially on weekends, when you can take your time soaking up the sprawling and well-maintained acres. Less than a kilometre from Suan Luang, the 800-metre Suan Wanataam is a haven for the olfactory senses, the smell of fresh-cut grass and flowers replacing that of oil and exhaust. Further along Srinakarin Road in Bang Kapi, a few other parks have carved out shady expanses in a rapidly developing landscape. Suan Seri Thai and Suan Nawamin Pirom offer shaded paths, still lakes, and often empty tracks. They don’t get nearly as much traffic as the parks in central Bangkok, which makes them more of a respite from the hustle and bustle. If you’re the type that prefers variety and entertainment in your runs, head to Rajamangala Stadium in Ramkhamhaeng or National Stadium beside MBK — the Chaucerian cast of walkers, joggers, and sprinters 16 | JA N UA RY 2015
that fill the tracks will surely keep you on your toes. For a combination of all these experiences, a blend of excitement and serenity, run along one of the canals, where the paths are narrow but vacant and people go about the real business of life on the margins of Bangkok.
Still, one question remains: are there any other runners out there? Indeed there are. They run from park to park. They meet for weekly workouts on the track. They walk, they jog, and they race. Like you, they’ve dedicated their dawns and dusks to the strange marriage of health and discomfort. There are dozens of running clubs with different strengths and niches. One of the biggest is the Bangkok Runners. The group holds regular meet-ups, and not just to go running — members get together for dinners, movies, and even drinks from time to time. They train for marathons, chat about the sport on their Facebook page, and support new and established runners of all abilities. Other running clubs include the Bangkok Barefoot Run Club, which, as the name suggests, is a bunch of runners who prefer to hoof it without shoes; the 14K Running Club, a long-established group that meets in Lumpini; and two groups with mostly Thai memberships, the Banana Running Club and For Runners Running Club. For information about upcoming races, meet-ups, and running news throughout Thailand, check out the quintessential www.runthailand.com. The website lists nearly every race in the Kingdom, even the smallest mini-marathons upcountry, and provides the brass tacks to boot, including starting times, maps, and nearby hotels.
bangkok101.com
Oneday: Forward by Casa Lapin 18 | DECEM BER 2014
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best of bangkok
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Dare to Share NAN TOHCHOODEE
takes a look at the rise of co-working spaces in Bangkok
H
ave an idea for a killer new business but put off by hiring costs, production costs, the price of raw materials, etcetera? Product or service, whatever the nature of your enterprise, you’ll have to put down a lot of money to make an impact in the field, and if running your fledgling business from home isn’t an option, you’ll first have to find a place to set up shop. Unfortunately, the cost of renting or renovating an office, above all else, is the most prohibitive aspect to your business turning a profit. However, don’t despair because there’s a new game in town, a trend that’s mitigating buyer remorse and the office rental blues: co-working spaces.
For entrepreneurs and start-up businesses, the concept of a “co-working space” has changed the playing field. Since the turn of the century, the world economy has gradually shifted from industry- to knowledge-based, and with that change has come a new way of looking at work. Today, major companies that are “with it,” especially tech companies like Apple and Google, have adopted informal working environments – environments in which ideas are pitched left and right, communication flows naturally, and no design is too silly to be considered. A co-working space is, simply put, a work environment in which each person, or different groups of people
Hubba
The Hive
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Oneday: Forward by Casa Lapin undertake independent tasks in a shared, common space. Unlike a typical office, you might find workers or entrepreneurs from a dozen different industries working in the same building, or even the same room – writers, coders, fashion designers, PR teams: everyone is welcome in a co-working space. “They have a bit of a university library vibe,” says Clay Hemmerich, an associate editor in Bangkok. Thanks to a professional but laid-back setting, coworking spaces allow companies and individuals to get work done without feeling as if they’re stuck in an office. But a co-working space doesn’t simply provide a blank room and office tools such as printing and presentation services – it also fosters a sense of community. “They encourage employers to give their best performance, since you’re sharing the same table. They wouldn’t be [great] for people who want total silence or need total privacy to think, though,” says Kornpat Pawakranond, a freelance art director and assistant film director. Take Hubba, for example, the first recognized coworking space in Bangkok. Established during the floods that paralyzed Bangkok in October 2011, Hubba provided a lifeline to companies and employees who didn’t have a place to go. Now, some five years later, it remains one of the city’s leading co-working communities. Located in Ekkamai, the epicentre of Bangkok’s start-up scene, the venue regularly hosts events, such as writing workshops and digital classes for tech-driven entrepreneurs, which unite like-minded professionals. Other perks here include the Pah Creative Space, which features abundant resources for designers, from a library to drafting tables and a 3-D printer – there’s even a punching bag for those who really need to let off some steam or beat out an idea. Creative types and travellers alike are making tracks to 20 | JA N UA RY 2015
Oneday: Forward, a 24-hour co-working space created by Casa Lapin. From its roots in a small back-alley shop on Thonglor 13, it has expanded to Sukhumvit 49 and the hip Ari neighbourhood; now, the founders are opening their latest hostel-working space-café on Sukhumvit soi 26. “The idea behind Oneday: Forward is about having a perfect day,” says Yiwa A. Voravudhi, GM and co-founder of the project. “We thought about essential activities that our customers do in one day, which, besides eating and relaxing, is working. While working in a coffee shop might inspire you, sometimes you need a dedicated work space in order to concentrate.” Beyond basic daily rental, Oneday: Forward offers a range of packages that cater to all makes and models of modern workers—there’s even a 2-hour option for quickie sessions and a self-serve coffee bar for a caffeine kick when you need it. “Our goal is to create an intimate and creative working environment for young entrepreneurs,” says Voravudhi. “Increasingly, people are shifting away from working a 9-5 day at the office to freelancing, so there is a lot of demand for creative co-working spaces in Bangkok.” Located on Sukhumvit 63 near Hubba, a new venue called Ma.D Hub has created a co-working space for socialites. With a credo of being “the space for change,” Ma.D Hub has urged companies and self-starters to share ideas through events that are geared toward social change. “We designed Ma.D Hub with the goal of uniting a network of socially conscious people who want to give back to their communities,” says Preekamol Chantaranijakorn, founder and owner. “We believe each entrepreneur, whether a businessman, artist, or student, can create lasting friendships and networks here, and together they can ‘do good’ and promote social change.” bangkok101.com
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Hubba
Oneday: Forward by Casa Lapin Some of Ma.D Hub’s most successful workshops to date have included Tech4chage, a seminar focused on the manifold ways technology can help forge a brighter future for global communities. Ma.D Hub has also supported local volunteering programs, offered consultations and counselling to start-up businesses, and co-created events with other local brands like Orn the Road Food Truck and Moon Seeker Gallery. Ma.D Hub is more than a place to go to get some work done. It’s a thriving community of go-getters.
The Hive As start-ups and entrepreneurs increasingly shape the business world, co-working spaces are taking root. Beyond reducing the burden of office maintenance costs, these cutting-edge, collaborative meeting points also provide freelancers and digital nomads work environments a world away from isolated home offices and coffee shops. Whether your medium is the pen and pad or wireless mouse and MacBook, one of Bangkok’s burgeoning coworking spaces no doubt has what it takes to help you launch into the future.
Key co-working spaces in Bangkok HUBBA 19 Soi Ekkamai 4, Sukumvit 63 Rd, Prakanong Nua, Wattana Bangkok 10110 0 2 714 3388
•
• ONEDAY:
FORWARD BY CASA LAPIN 51 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Khlong Tan, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110 0 2108 8855 • MA.D
HUB FOR SOCIAL ENTREPRENEURS Sukhumvit 63 Ekkamai Soi 4 Bangkok 08 9333 3248
• 63 WORKING SPACE 1323/2 Sukhumvit Rd, Phrakanong Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 02 392 5961 3, 09 4493 3518 • LAUNCHPAD 139 Pan Road, Sethiwan Tower, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 0 2266 6222 • CLUSTER OFFICE S.S.P Tower (16) Soi Sukhumvit 63, Khlong Tan Nuea, Wattana, Bangkok 10110 08 7444 7416, 09 8585 2095
• THE HIVE BANGKOK 46/9 Soi Sukhumvit 49, Khlong Ton Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 02 662 6062
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Boldly Going to Ladprao It still seems incredible that a mere 66 years after the Wright brothers’ first powered flight in December 1903, man was walking on the Moon. Space exploration has continued at break-neck speed since the famous lunar mission in July 1969 – think space stations, orbiters to far-off Mars, probes landing on comets etcetera – and that journey is documented in a fascinating edutainment exhibition currently on show at the Bangkok Convention Center, Ladprao.
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fficially opened last month in the presence of former NASA astronaut Brigadier-General Charlie Duke, the NASA - A Human Adventure exhibition offers Buzz Aldrin wannabes young and old the chance to delve into the history of what is arguably mankind’s greatest technological achievement – the ability to beat gravity and the parameters of our atmosphere so that we can explore the great vacuum of space. Among the key items on display is the control panel of the Space Shuttle Atlantis, while budding space cadets can find out what it feels like to be a pilot onboard a
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spacecraft and experience multiple G Forces. They can also learn how astronauts have their meals, see the evolution of astronaut space suits over the decades and even have their picture taken wearing one of the suits. Produced by John Nurminen Events in cooperation with NASA, the Kansas Cosmosphere and Space Center, and the U.S. Space and Rocket Center, the edutainment exhibition features around 400 space explorationrelated objects, many of which were used in real space operations. Here you can see pieces ranging from the
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best of bangkok
signed plastic briefcase belonging to Russian cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space, to various rocket parts and specially-packed food items from the Apollo missions. Above all, the exhibition is testament to the incredible vision and hard work of the men and women who made the dream of landing a man on the Moon and returning him safely back to Earth a reality. Described in a display titled ‘Dreamers’, their work appears primarily in the Space Technology zone, the first of the four zones into which the exhibition is organized. It showcases space rockets, space suits, satellites, space cars, space robots, space food, space bathrooms, space communication devices, space shuttles and operating engines, space electronic devices, space stations and ground stations. This is where visitors can explore all NASA’s manned space craft, from Mercury and Gemini to Apollo and the Space Shuttle. In addition to US innovations, Russian space technology is also on display with replicas of the famous Sputnik satellite and lunar survey rover Lunokhod. Other highlights include a replica of Neil Armstrong’s space suit; two Titan 1 rocket engines, a scale model of the most powerful rocket ever successfully flown, the mighty Saturn V Moon rocket; an Apollo Lunar Module cockpit and ascent engine; and an Apollo Command Module replica with a real simulator-trainer interior. In another display called Go Fever, science and technology are set in a social context via a historical comparison of the two space giants, the United States and Soviet Union, and their competition to show off their progress in the field of space exploration. And in keeping with the educational aspect of the exhibition, there are also displays highlighting the endurance required of astronauts in space, showing how they live their lives on a daily basis, what they wear, what they eat, and much more. Thailand’s involvement in space gets a look-in too, with a Thai Innovation display detailing advanced satellite technology developed by the likes of Thaicom, Geo-Informatics and the Space Technology Development Agency. 24 | JA N UA RY 2015
Zone 2 features rides designed to give visitors some idea of what it feels like to travel into space. The aforementioned G Force Simulator produces up to 1G of force, a fraction of the gravitational stresses that astronauts routinely endured during Space Shuttle launches and landings back on Earth. Nevertheless it offers a uniquely thrilling experience for mere Earth-bound mortals. A further zone 2 attraction is the Photo Activity Club where visitors can don a space suit and have their picture taken while they experience the weightlessness of space. Here too is The Globe, a circular screen that allows 360-degree views of the Solar System. It contains information about our own planet, our Sun and our cosmic neighbours: Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus, Neptune, and the dwarf planet Pluto. The information display is interactive – similar to a gaming experience. The other two zones at the exhibition are given over to souvenirs and a Space Café respectively. At the Space Café visitors can get their fill of ‘special’ space cuisine. A word of caution on the souvenir side – if you are planning on visiting this cosmic showcase with a tribe of little Buzz Lightyears – on Children’s Day for example – a tool round the souvenir zone can be an expensive proposition. Given that exhibitions of this stature come to Thailand infrequently, NASA - A Human Adventure is an educational and entertainment opportunity that shouldn’t be missed.
THE NASA - A HUMAN ADVENTURE exhibition is on at the Bangkok Convention Center, 5th floor, Central Plaza Ladprao, until February 1, 2015. Tickets priced at B500 per person, available at all ThaiTicketMajor counters. Visit bectero.com or call 0 2262 3838 for more information.
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HIT THE DECK AFTER WORK CHILL OUT IN THE COOL SEASON AT SHORT CUTS DECK Relax outdoors after a hard day in the office with great drinks and complimentary nibbles. Special drinks menu and appetizer buffet available every Wednesday - Friday evening now through February 2015. Short Cuts Deck situated in the outside terrace of Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park’s main entrance. After office promotion: Special drinks and appetizer buffet, Wednesday - Friday 5.00 p.m. - 8.00 p.m. Open hour: Monday - Friday 5.00 p.m. - 11.00 p.m. Early evening at Short Cuts Deck, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park is the direct route to a great time. Prices start at THB 110 net per drink.
THE SIAMESE SMILE: GRIN AND ‘BARE’ IT!
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insight
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Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON SMILES
Photograph by Manit Sriwanichpoom
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he inherent charm of the Thai people is well known. Our friendly nature and beguiling culture is world famous, as is our legendary smile, which has the ability to melt hearts. In fact, in this “Land of Smiles” the Thai face is capable of showing more expressions than a full range of Emoticons. Most of the time our smiles are given out of courtesy and custom. We offer a ‘wai’ and a gracious smile as a way to welcome friends and guests. These smiles can be narrow or broad depending on how we feel. The more we like you, the wider the smile will be. To Western visitors, our smiles may come across as social cosmetics. However, being pleasant and cheerful is much more than mere civility. Who likes to look at sad and brooding people? Why wrinkle your brow when you can turn your frown upside down and create a sunny smile instead? Interestingly, the Siamese smile comes in many guises. Forget Mona Lisa’s enigmatic smirk, the Thai smile can be even more mystical and disarming. So how do you decode our smiles? Should I give away our cultural secrets? At the moment, I am smiling knowingly. When we are amused, we can give you a little smile that doesn’t show any teeth. This creates a look akin to someone sucking on a lollipop. It is perfect for a tongue-in-cheek situation. Sometimes we give a weak smile to a dire situation or a playful and mischievous one like the Cheshire Cat. If it’s a weak smile, it means we are in a disagreeable or an awkward situation. This type of smile works as a “get out of jail free” card. When we grin openly from ear to ear, it signifies that we are very pleased. If we offer up a smirk, it means that we are being sarcastic. If it’s a cheeky sneer at one corner of the lips, it may imply that we want to say “I told you so.” If we are beaming with our cheeks turned up, it can be that we are very happy or we don’t know what to say! On occasions we Thais smile or laugh when we feel bashful or don’t understand what our visitors have bangkok101.com
said. Now that may sound senseless but we would rather be polite and smile or laugh at an awkward situation than compound it by frowning or scowling. The trick to discern whether a smile is sincere or not is in the eyes. Hence the often-given instruction by professional photographers to “smile with your eyes.” As a window to one’s souls, the eyes can speak louder than words. Sadly, and here I smile wistfully, these days Thai people don’t smile as much as I remember. I still see children smiling and laughing frequently but adults less so. Is it because as we get older we increasingly fathom the harsh realities of life, those problems that don’t impact the rosy world in which children live? What has wiped the smiles off our faces? Doesn’t anyone whistle while they work anymore? Thai farmers used to enjoy a bit of banter and they’d sing while they worked in their fields harvesting their crops. Now these harvest songs are hardly heard because tractors have replaced buffaloes and humans. Reaping rice crops no longer needs to be done by a group of farmers, but by a single machine. During the working day the lives of city folk resembles an obstacle course as they endure traffic congestion, the grind of commuting and the pressures of making a buck. Who cares if we don’t smile so much? We are not in a delirium or trying to promote world peace like beauty queens with smiles plastered on their faces. We just grin and bear it when we have to face the music. However, our smiles have not disappeared altogether. We still smile when we are bemused, when we are embarrassed, when we are clueless, when we make mistakes, and even when we cry. Our smiles can express our elation, our affection or our regret, and can mean hello, thank you, sorry, and goodbye. With the Thai characteristic of being happy-golucky, our heart’s delight can mix with our tears of joy. Most importantly, our smiles usually come from the heart. And that’s said with a wink and a beaming grin. JA N UA RY 2015 | 27
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very thai
alphabet tables
Photo: John Goss
G IS FOR CHICKEN AND K IS FOR EGG
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tudents of the Western alphabet quickly set aside spelling prompts like ‘A for Apple’, ‘B for Boat’. Learners of Thai instead maintain a lifelong relationship with the 44 words that contain the 44 consonants. As the Thai A to Z runs G to H, people nickname it gor gai tueng hor nok huuk: ‘G Chicken to H Owl’. More than a learning tool, this letternaming resembles the international radio operator’s ‘T for Tango, V for Victor’ as a way to clarify spelling. This need arises from the 44 consonants covering just 21 sounds – nine when ending a word. Listed in an order based on how they’re shaped by lips and tongue, there
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995
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are six kinds of T, five Ks, four Ss, three Chs and so on, each spoken with a trailing ‘Or’ vowel. Illustrations of the words grace letter charts adorning posters and kids’ table tops that also get used by adults for anything from lunch and lottery ticket selling to fortunetelling. The imagery echoes Thai culture – from the temple: sor sala (pavilion), khor rakhang (bell), nor naen (novice monk). From the jungle: chor chang (elephant), ngor ngu (snake), sor seua (tiger). From the farm: khor khai (egg), khor khwai (buffalo), bpor bpla (fish). From mythology: sor ruesi (hermit), yor yak (giant). From nationalism: thor thahan (soldier), thor thong (flag).
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, ‘Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture’ is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.
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thailand at random
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CAN’T TOUCH THIS .....
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hai massage is well known around the world. The masseuse uses his or her thumbs, fingers, hands, palms, elbows, arms, knees, and even feet to apply pressure. The massage is performed in four positions—with the customer lying face down, lying face up, lying on the side, and seated. The typical massage commences at the feet and moves upwards to the head. The following precautions are taken during a Thai massage: • Do not massage an area with a bone fracture or joint dislocation • Do not massage someone if they are suffering a fever. The massage will spread the infection if the fever is caused by bacteria. If the fever is caused by muscle inflammation, the massage will also exacerbate the inflammation. • Do not massage varicose veins • Do not massage skin infected by a contagious disease • Do not massage anyone who is under the influence of drugs or alcohol • Do not apply pressure to lymph nodes • Special techniques are needed in order to massage a pregnant or menstruating woman • If the recipient has an overly full stomach, do not have them lie face down and do not give them an abdominal massage
An illustrated collection of Thailand trivia, Thailand at Random is filled with anecdotes, statistics, quotes, idioms, cultural explanations, historical asides, facts, folklore and other unusual and useful tidbits. This veritable treasure trove of information on Thailand is arranged, as the title suggests, randomly, so that readers will come to expect the unexpected on each and every page. Designed in a charmingly classic style, and peppered with original illustrations, Thailand at Random is a quirky and irresistible celebration of everything you didn’t know you wanted to know about this diverse and captivating country.
MILITARY
CHIC
> Thailand at Random EDM Books | editors Grissarin Chungsiriwat and Nicholas Grossman | B650
still life in moving vehicles
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rom khakis to camouflage to combat boots and shirts with epaulets on the shoulders, military style seems to be all the rage in Bangkok. While some of the accoutrements look like they came directly from Army surplus shops, most of the items are military-inspired. Considering how many Thais follow the latest trends, I’m wondering if this look is coming from the runways of Paris and New York, or whether it has something to do with the influence of the military junta currently running the country. Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, still life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com). Published by River Books, the spin-offbook, Thai Taxi Talisman, is available at bookstores around town for B995.
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Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
FROM CARTOONIST TO COLLECTOR FRENCH HUMOURIST’S UNIQUE COLLECTION OF VINTAGE THAI HERMIT MASKS GROWS.
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tephane Peray, more famously known as “Stephff”, the signature affixed to his biting editorial cartoons, has been quietly collecting tribal art for the last 13 years. In 2012 the Frenchman opened Stephff’s Tribal Art, a gallery where he sells tribal artwork from Mali, Borneo, Papua New Guinea and other exotic locales alongside his own contemporary art and cartoons. Peray’s affinity for travel and art stems, he says, from his seven years in the French navy. “My ship was based in Tahiti,” says the bespectacled 50-year-old. “And we had access to islands which only
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monthly cargo ships would go, places now served by airports. I wish I had started picking up tribal art then, but when you’re 18 or 19 years old you don’t collect things. You collect experience instead.” Looking for a way to keep travelling after he left the navy, the artistically inclined Peray decided to become a photographer. Basing himself in Bangkok in 1989, the young man specialised in feature photography on Southeast Asia for Asiaweek and other international news magazines. Cartoon work came along when Le Mekong, a monthly magazine published in Phnom Penh, asked if Peray could bangkok101.com
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draw political cartoons for them. Soon his cartoons were also appearing regularly in Dubai-based daily newspaper The Gulf Today. In 1997 he gave up photography to pursue a full-time career as a political cartoonist. Here in Thailand, “Stephff” is well known for his regular appearance on the editorial pages of The Nation, but his cartoons are also published frequently in another 15 periodicals around the globe. Meanwhile his passion for collecting exotic art has recently extended to intensely decorated papier-mâché masks used in khon, Thailand’s highly ritualized dance-drama tradition. The mask is the most important costume element for distinguishing up to 300 separate khon roles. A traditional mask begins with a plaster mould to which 15 layers of papier-mâché are added using a rice-flour glue. Once the mask has dried, it is removed from the mould and additional layers of a natural lacquer is applied to accent the mouth, ears, and eyebrows. Crowns and earflaps carefully cut from buffalo hide come next, to be followed by gold leaf and glass mosaic. Peray bought his first khon mask, a beautiful 80-yearold Thotsakan (the Ramayana villain Dasakanta), from the late Italian photographer Luca Tettoni. Later he became focused on a very particular kind of khon mask, the ones worn by characters portraying the hermit sage known as Pho Kae (Old Father). bangkok101.com
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The typical hermit mask features a white beard, a tall, hollow crown and a bucktoothed grimace. Hermit masks are used not only by dance-drama performers, but also by monks and Thai shamans to perform a sacred empowerment ritual. They’re especially in common use by masters in the sacred Thai tattoo (sak yan) tradition. In the khrawp khru ritual, the monk or master will place the mask atop a devotees head while reciting magical Pali incantations. Peray now has a Thai assistant who travels the country looking for masks that might be for sale. “Many are stored away in the back rooms of temples,” Peray says. “They were once used in annual Brahmanist rituals believed to protect the temple and monks. Nowadays hardly anyone does the rituals anymore, and the masks just sit and gather dust.” Peray says he is planning to write a book about hermit masks. “But first I need to expand my collection. I’ve found a Thai astrologer who has an impressive number of masks, and I’m buying them one at a time to help finance his retirement.”
STEPHFF TRIBAL ART Supreme Ville, 38/56 Yenakat Rd | 0 2671 3535.
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Bizarre
Thailand
A long-term resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has compiled some of his strangest trips, weirdest experiences and funniest stories into the nonfiction compilation ‘Bizarre Thailand’ (Marshall Cavendish 2010). More bytes and pixels at www.jimalgie.com.
TSUNAMI: PART 2
A continuation of his tribute to the 10th anniversary of the Asian tsunami, which struck on December 26, 2004, washing away a quarter of a million lives, this is another extract from Jim Algie’s novella “Tsunami,” from his collection, The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (Tuttle, 2014). Much of the tale is based on his own experiences reporting on the tsunami and volunteering at the biggest makeshift graveyard. In this extract, the French-Canadian writer, Yves, finally finds out what happened to his wife, Zara, and closest friend, Stephan.
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he grisliest volunteer work was carried out at Wat Yanyao in the district capital of Takuapa, where Dr Pornthip and her forensics team were in the midst of identifying several thousand corpses. Besides all the monks, soldiers, cops, translators, journalists, families searching for loved ones and friends looking for friends, milling around, the members of different Disaster Victim Identification Units from a dozen different countries had also set up command centers under awnings beside the century-old temple with its fanciful mosaics of Buddhist iconography and its single-smokestack crematorium. Wade and Yves were on the crew unloading the 32 | JA N UA RY 2015
cadavers, wrapped in white body bags, from the backs of trucks, to lay them out in the temple grounds so they could be identified by friends and family members. The forensic teams sprayed the bodies with fungicide and put pellets of dry ice on them so they wouldn’t decompose too quickly. As the ice melted, an eerie mist drifted over the dead. Worst of all was the stench of rot mingling with seawater, which speared through nose plugs and closed eyelids to lodge itself in the back of the brain, where it lay dormant for years, waiting for a chance encounter with a seafood market or sex on a tropical night to cause flashbacks of rips appearing in that veil of dry ice, showing blackened limbs sticking up bangkok101.com
highlight at grotesque angles like dead trees in a petrified forest and chickens pecking out the eyes of corpses. Most of the volunteers wore white rubber outfits, surgeon’s masks, rubber gloves and boots. Creeping from corpse to corpse, Yves knelt down to inspect them. Each had been tagged with a “DVI Body Number” by a Thai soldier. At this point, seven day days after the tsunami, he had to steel himself for the sight of his wife and Stephan. He just hoped that they didn’t look too banged up. For a woman of Zara’s statuesque beauty, who prided herself so much on her great looks, the final insult would be ending up like these other victims: their genitals swollen like balloons, their faces purpled and blackened, their chests torn open to reveal internal organs and the spaghetti of intestinal tracts. Was this Stefan? The long blond hair looked familiar, but the face, if you could call it that, consisted of a mouth left agape by a final scream that revealed a picket fence of broken teeth and a flattened nose. Both eyeballs hung from their sockets by threads of flesh. Yves lowered his face until it was no more than a few centimeters above him. The tongue wriggled and the dead man moaned, “Yves... Yves.” He ran over to where Dr Pornthip was standing. “Hey doctor, doctor. Listen, I know this sounds crazy, but that man over there isn’t dead. I swear he’s not dead. He just moaned something that sounded like my name.” The porcupine-haired forensic scientist, dressed all in black as usual, smiled sympathetically. “I know it sounds like that, but it’s the gases escaping from the body. Sometimes they move the vocal cords, so the bodies appear to be speaking. It’s normal.” Normal or not, Yves was too spooked to go anywhere near those body bags for the time being. He did not hear anything about Zara and Stephan until a few days later when one of the high-society Thai ladies bringing medical supplies to the temple loaned him her cell phone to call an old friend in Montreal. Outside of his new inner circle, consisting solely of fellow survivors and volunteers, he had spoken to no one except his mom and brother. Even with his family it had been a struggle, for his experiences were so far beyond anything he had ever experienced, or even imagined, he could not begin to describe what he’d been through. The intensity of the waves, the sense of helplessness, of being a baby again but with the brain of an adult, did not make for polite conversation or easy explanations. Putting too much emphasis on the dangerous elements sounded like boasting, when his survival owed more to luck than manly bravado. How to explain the fact that he was in the only bungalow out of forty or fifty in that resort which stood up to the waves and did not collapse? Why did the water stop flooding the bungalow only about ten centimeters before it reached the roof? He didn’t know. He couldn’t explain it. Some of the other Thais volunteering at the temple attributed their survival to the power of their amulets. One local businessman said, “This monk on my necklace has very strong magic.” But the only “amulet” Yves had possessed was his wife’s hairclip, a few of her red tresses caught in its plastic teeth. He kept it in his pocket for a lucky charm, the same as he’d kept a rabbit’s foot when he was a boy. bangkok101.com
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Standing in the shade cast by the temple’s ornate eaves, lotus-shaped bells hanging from them and tinkling in the breeze, Yves fingered the hairclip as he tried to speak to an old friend who had suddenly become a distant stranger. The crackling connection only accounted for half the distance between them. “I had been meaning to bring this up earlier and so did a few of our other old comrades in art,” said David. “But, well, since there is no easy way to say this, I won’t throw up any more obfuscations. Zara and Stephan have been having an affair for the past year or so, and they’re planning on moving in together soon and making their relationship official. They escaped the wave and they’re in Bangkok now.” “An affair? Moving in together? What the fuck are you talking about?” When David did not answer, he continued. “This is outrageous. This can’t be true. It’s impossible. It’s not possible, do you hear me?” “Things happen, situations change.” “Things happen, situations change? We’ve been together on and off for more than eleven years now. This is not a thing that’s happened or a situation that’s changed. This is tantamount to a Judas kiss, the worst possible betrayal imaginable. Do you understand what I’m saying?” “Sure, but don’t shoot the messenger is all I’m saying.” “I’m not going to shoot the messenger. I’m going to shoot both of them. In Bangkok, me and my old friend Mick, do you know how many hit-men we used to know? Do you know how easy it would be to get both of them killed? All it would cost is about a thousand bucks a head. That’s it.” When David said nothing, he continued, “Thanks for telling me. Take care.” Yves threw Zara’s hairclip at the rows of bodies. He borrowed Wade’s motorcycle without asking him and drove down the coast in search of the only person on the planet he wanted to see right now. The old fisherman who’d lost seventeen relatives was sitting in much the same place as when they’d first encountered him: squatting like a duck in the shadow of a beached fishing trawler. Either he didn’t recognize Yves, or recognized him and didn’t care, or maybe he’d gone mad already, because he launched into exactly the same spiel that he’d first given them. Maybe he kept repeating it because he couldn’t believe it himself, just as Yves could not believe that Stefan and Zara had been having an affair and were now planning on moving in together. Pointing at the beachhead, the fishermen said, “There used to be a village here, a school, my home and family, a pier, our fishing boats. Where have they all gone?” Yves told him in Thai, “I don’t know but I understand how you feel. My old life is gone too... gone with the wave.” Both of them were straining and squinting so hard to see what wasn’t there anymore that they failed to notice that the water had also wiped the slate clean. It was a time of endings to be sure, but it was also a time of new beginnings. This tale is continued in the novella, “Tsunami,” from The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (Tuttle 2014) by Jim Algie. Stay tuned for more in the next issue. JA N UA RY 2015 | 33
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listings
Ananta Samakhom Palace Throne Hall
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE THRONE HALL [MAP 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadamnoen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [MAP 4/A3] 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium | 0 2216 7368 jimthompsonhouse. com | 9am-5pm | B100/B50 students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton graduate and former spook who revived the hand-woven Thai silk industry before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden home beside a pungent canal: six traditional teak houses from around the country kept exactly as he left them
M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [MAP 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 8185 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm, Daily | B50/B20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION [MAP 8/F8] 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd | 0 2281 1569 | TueSun 9.30am-4pm | B100 34 | JA N UA RY 2015
Erawan Shrine The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD PALACE [MAP 8/K11] Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 0 2245 4934 | suanpakkad.com | 9am4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques.
SHRINES ERAWAN SHRINE [MAP 4/G5] Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan BTS Chit Lom | Free Don’t expect serenity here. This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE [MAP 4/G3] Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | Free A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE [MAP 4/G3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd | Free
The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
TEMPLES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [MAP 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | Tha Chang Pier | 0 2222 0094, 0 2623 5500 8.30am-3.30 pm | B500 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.
WAT ARUN [MAP 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd | 0 2465 5640 | watarun.com | 8am-5pm | B100 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.
WAT PO (RECLINING BUDDHA) [MAP 7/D12]
Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd | 0 2226 0369 watpho.com | 8am-5pm | B100 bangkok101.com
listings
Wat Ratchanatda
Wat Arun
The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.
WAT MAHATHAT [MAP 7/C8] Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 0 2221 5999 | 9am-5pm | Free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.
WAT RATCHANATDA [MAP 7/K8] Mahachai Rd | 0 2224 8807 | 8.30am-6pm free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.
WAT SAKET [MAP 7/L8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd | 0 2233 4561 7.30am-5.30pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.
WAT SUTHAT & THE GIANT SWING [MAP 7/H9]
Bamrung Muang Rd | 0 2222 9632 | 9am-9pm Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
WAT TRAIMIT [MAP 6/L3] 661 Charoen Krung Rd | 0 2623 1226 MRT HuaLampong | 8am-5pm | B50/B100
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Wat Traimit Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [MAP 8/L11, 12]
85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng) Ratchaprarop Rd | 0 2245 3008 bangkokdolls.com | Mon-Sat 8am-5pm Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
Ma ma makes i e k i l t s t!! Ju Authentic Italian home cooking on Thong Lor Set lunch starts@290B
387/15 Sukhumvit 55, Thong Lor soi 21 Tel: 02 185 2199
www.solemiobkk.com bangkok101.com
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listings
The National Museum
BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier 0 2233 7027 | Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
MADAME TUSSAUDS [MAP 4/C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium 0 2658 0060 | madametussauds.com/ Bangkok | 10am-9pm | B800/B600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe’s famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 0 2653 5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm (App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it’s open to 36 | JA N UA RY 2015
Royal Barge Museum Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
MUSEUM OF SIAM [MAP 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier | 0 2622 2599 ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | Free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [MAP 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 0 2224 1333 thailandmuseum.com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm B200 | no photo allowed Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam’s main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [MAP 7/K7]
100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02621 0044 nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully
Ancient Siam abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hard-to-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [MAP 7/B4] 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 0 2424 0004 | 9am-5pm | B30/ B100 photo/B200 video This collection of ornate royal barges, some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [MAP 1/F6]
296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan 0 2709 1644 | ancientcity.com B500/B250 kids/B1500 private guide in English for two hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing. bangkok101.com
listings
Lumpini Park
PARKS LUMPINI PARK [MAP8/K,L16] Entrances on Rama IV, Sarasin, Witthayu and Ratchadamri Rd | 5am-9pm; cycling/skating 10am-3pm | free The biggest and most popular slice of public space in Central Bangkok, Lumpini Park is 142 acres of trees and grass swen together with wide, mendering concrete paths. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians like to take advantage of its relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. A surprising number of animals also like it here – from turtles and giant monitor lizards, to flocks of crows and the occasional stray cat. Activities include taking a Swan-shaped pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin and pumping iron at the outdoor gym, while live concert recitals and film screenings take place here during the cool season.
BENJASIRI PARK [MAP 8/L7] Sukhumvit Rd, btw. Soi 22/24 BTS Phrom Phong | 5am-9pm | free Next to the Phrom Phong BTS Skytrain station and Emporium shopping mall, this is a great place to escape the Sukhumvit rat race – amble around lakes, find shade under a tree, or admire modern Thai sculptures.
Benjasiri Park bangkok101.com
RAMA IX Royal Park
RAMA IX ROYAL PARK [MAP 7/K8] Sukhumvit Soi 103, behind Seri Center, Pravet | 0 2328 1972 | 5.30pm-7pm | B10 Bangkok’s biggest park spans 200-acres and features a small museum dedicated to the King, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with soothing water features.
JATUJAK & QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS [MAP8/M, N1, 2]
820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao 0 2272 4358 | 5am-6.30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some much-needed respite. Jatujak Park hosts a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a botanical garden.
SUAN ROD FAI PARK [MAP8/M, N1] Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd, BTS Mo Chit / MRT Chatuchak Park | 02-537-9221 5am-9pm | free Also just north of JJ market, this huge park has lots of open space and wild trees, plus a lotus pond, playground, basketball and tennis courts, and a butterfly garden (see opposite). Young locals flock here on weekends to hire a bike and cycle along its wide paths, and with prices for rental only B20 we highly recommend you copy them.
ROSE GARDEN RIVERSIDE (SUAN SAMPRAM) [MAP1/D5]
Jatujak & Queen Sirikit Park
S N A P S H OT S
Suan Rod Fai 32 Phet Kasem Rd, Yai-Cha, Sampran, Nakhon Pathom Province | 0 3432 2544 | rosegardenriverside.com 10am-4pm Garden B 50, Show B 500 Take an hour’s drive out from the city and explore this 70-acre property located beside the Ta Chine River, which includes a hotel resort, golf court, spa organic farm and botanical gardens. The cultural shows here are as popular as the lush gardens.
SARANROM PARK [MAP7/E11] Intersection of Rachini / Charoen Krung Rd | Phra Nakhon | 5am-8pm | free This ‘green belt’ within the city is located opposite the Grand Palace, built in 1866 during the reign of Rama IV as a royal garden of the Saranrom Royal Palace. It is now a botanical garden and public park, featuring a glass house, and royal bugle pavilion.
BANG KRA CHAO [MAP 1/E5] Bang Krachao, Phra Pradaeng, Samut Prakarn | 6am-8pm | free It’s hard to believe that this oasis of lush orchards and mangroves is just opposite the concrete jungle of Klong Toey. Included within it is the 200-rai Suan Klang Central Park with a large pond where you can rent paddle boats for B30. Or rent cycles for the same rate and ride a bike around the park then head down t the Bang am Pueng Floting Market.
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SUNFLOWER FESTIVAL
LOPBURI I
f you’re an aspiring Van Gogh, or just plain into flowers, you’re in clover this month as endless fields of bright yellow sunflowers bloom in nearby Lopburi province. The perfect location for a daytrip (it’s only an hour-and-ahalf from Bangkok by car), locals flock to the festival to take photographs and ramble amid the tall, sun-drinking flowers, which usually hang around until early February. If you’re feeling energetic, you can hire bicycles to tour the fields. Alternatively, tractor-pulled road-trains take the strain on scenic trips between the blooms. You can also find fields of sunflowers in nearby Saraburi province. Beautiful as they are, more prosaically the sunflowers are an important part of the local agrarian economy, their seeds providing sunflower oil and the basis for numerous types of local snack products.
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Until January 11 Jim Thompson Farm Tour Did you know that Jim Thompson’s world famous Thai Silk Company has its very own silk farm up in Korat’s Pak Thong Chai district? Well it does, and once a year they fling open the gates and let Joe Public in. Tours of their mulberry plantation, silkworm egg production centre, vegetable plots and plant nursery are available every day until January 13 between 9am5pm. 0 2216 7368, jimthompsonfarm.com
January 17-18 Bor Sang Umbrella Festival The little community of Bor Sang, just east of Chiang Mai, is often referred to as the “Umbrella Village”, and justly so. During this celebration of the delicately hand-painted saa-paper and silk parasols it churns out, bands will play, lanterns line the main street, and villagers compete to win the award for the year’s prettiest. Nearby San Kamphaeng also gets in on the act with its own handicrafts fair.
January 25 Khon Kaen International Marathon The self-proclaimed “Greatest Marathon of Thailand” takes place again on January 27, 445km northeast of Bangkok. The starter’s gun for the full marathon will fire at 4:15am sharp, with the half-marathon, mini-marathon and 4.5km fun run setting off shortly after. As usual, it starts and ends at Khon Kaen University’s Golden Jubilee Convention Hall, and the winners will take home some cold hard cash. khonkaenmarathon.com
Until January 31 Phu Ruea Flower Festival The Tourism Authority of Thailand in cooperation with Loei’s local sectors invites tourists to experience the winter breeze among a sea of fog and floral fields in a small district of Phu Ruea. At the events, local boots are showcasing the spectacular winter plants and flowers which can only be found in only this part of Thailand. The sector has provides and decorated the view point especially for this special season. Local food and products are also offered.
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Until January 31 Wawee tea tasting and luscious coffee of Doi Chang Festival The festival is organized to boost tourism industry as well as support local products. Among the chilling atmosphere and a scenic mountain view, tourists are invited to indulge themselves in a premium tea and coffee from Doi Chang where this world’s class coffee is planted. Northern tribes will perform their fascinating shows in the unique traditional costume. Other entertaining activities include sports, cooking competitions and singing contest.
February 6 – 8 Chiang Mai Flower Festival Outside of Japan’s Sakura Flower Festival, you’ve probably never seen such amazing things done with flowers. Head down to Buak Hat Park at the southwest corner of the Old City and check out amazing floats festooned with fanciful, exuberant floral designs that would melt even the brittlest Bauhaus heart. There’ll also be several floral art installations and the requisite beauty contests, music and petalled stuff for purchase. Make sure to wear some flowers in your hair.
Until February 28 Udon Thani’s Amazing Red Lotus Sea For three months of the year, the ‘red lotus sea’ in Kum Pavapi district, Udon Thani is covered with beautiful pink lotus flowers, blooming along with some other aquatic plants all over the lake. The perfect time to see the beautiful red lotuses is in the morning from 6am to 11am, but tourists can take a boat tour for sightseeing around the lake all day. It is recommended to check the fully blooming time with TAT Udon Thani at 0 4232 5496, 0 4232 6436.
Until April 30 Hat Yai Lantern Festival One of Thailand’s quirks is its love of luminous night lights and lanterns, which locals believe evoke the spirit world and use to embellish everything from city streets to shabby restaurants. At this after-dark festival being staged in the southern city of Hat Yai through January and beyond, this tradition reaches its colourful zenith, with themed lamps drawn from local folklore, Thai festivals, the animal kingdom and even Walt Disney lighting up the city’s main park between 4pm and 9pm each evening.
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hotel review
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RADISSON BLU PLAZA - A Location for Luxury BY CRAIG SAUERS
T
he ‘heart of a city’ is a loosely defined thing. Nowadays, the phrase tends to be bandied about just a little too liberally. A metropolis like Bangkok might have three or four hearts, as it were, districts demarcated by interest, venues, and public transport lines — shoppers drawn to malls, night owls to clubs and bars, foodies to street stalls, swarms of people packed in tight between skyscrapers, switching from subway to sky train. ‘Heart of the city’ is a matter of opinion. All that said, Radisson Blu Plaza, rising above Sukhumvit Road on the corner of Soi 27, is about as close as it comes to being in the ‘heart’ of Bangkok; a short taxi ride from Thong Lo’s bars and restaurants, the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, and the Airport Rail Link, and a brief walk from BTS Asoke and MRT Sukhumvit, as well as the posh Emporium and boutique Terminal 21 shopping malls, the hotel rightly lays claim to one of the most convenient locations in the city. And yet, it is far enough removed from the teeming crowds and white noise to retain a sense of tranquillity – the hotel straddles a residential side street and a relatively subdued stretch of Sukhumvit, a setting which decreases the tempo of Bangkok, offering peace, quiet and a lens to examine the affairs of the big city from outside the fishbowl. Radisson Blu Plaza encompasses 290 rooms and suites spread across 29 floors. From cosy Deluxe Rooms to the extravagant Royal Deluxe Suite, with its 144 square metres and private balcony, at least one space caters to every traveller. While the high-end options are as lavish as you’d expect, the bulk of the rooms — Deluxe and Grand Deluxe — don’t lack in luxury, either. Each comes with a number of amenities that make the hotel stay feel a bit like home, including flat-screen TVs hung tastefully on the wall, spacious work desks with ergonomic chairs, and fourfixture marble bathrooms with rain showers and separate bathtubs. But what really sets the accommodations apart are the discreet comforts, the services and facilities you didn’t know you wanted before they were laid before you: onetouch room and concierge services, express laundry, a complimentary shoe shine, a wide and well-designed living space finished with a soothing colour palette. Each room enjoys its own panoramic view of the city, too, which at night can be breath-taking, especially from the top floors. For those in need of rest and relaxation, the hotel provides the requisite floor dedicated to wellness. Spa Esc advertises holistic treatments as well as traditional therapies, including Thai massage; while the spa delivers where it should, the best part about this floor isn’t treatments, it’s the large and airy gym — a stylish facility with sufficient space to guarantee you won’t sweat all over bangkok101.com
the person running on the treadmill next to you. There’s also a small but well-maintained pool, with plenty of chairs on the deck and the quaint Bar Esc serving good fruit shakes and snacks. The rooms are plush and the wellness centre impeccable, but the true selling point of Radisson Blu Plaza is the superb range of dining options. Each restaurant, with its unique style and flavours, adds to the overall experience of staying at the hotel. At night, B/Sharp on the ground floor turns into an expanded lounge bar with an open, rotundalike setting. Here, the drinks are stiff and live music turns long days into relaxed evenings. The shining stars, though, are the romantic Attico on the 28th floor — its rustic Italian fare is exquisite and perfectly executed — and TwentySeven Bites, the brasserie on the second floor with a can’tmiss international breakfast buffet. Whether for a night or a week, a stay at Radisson Blu Plaza is as invigorating as it is relaxing, and it might just lead you to linger in the heart of the city.
RADISSON BLU PLAZA
[MAP 3/K9]
489 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2302 3333 radissonblu.com
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OLD-SCHOOL CHIANG MAI
The Rose of the North’s former European trading district capitalises on its post-colonial charm. BY JOE CUMMINGS
O
ne of the oldest neighbourhoods in Chiang Mai is an area extending from the east bank of the Ping River around Wat Ketkaram (known as ‘Wat Ket’ or ‘Wat Gate’ for short). Originally the only structure of significance on this side of the river was a tall stupa called Phra That Ketkaew Chulamani, erected in 1428 to house a Buddha hair relic. As the Lanna kingdom’s walled and moated city of Chiang Mai to the west flourished, the residents eventually established a monastery around the stupa in 1578-81 and today it’s considered one of the 10 holiest stupas in northern Thailand, particularly for worshippers born in the Year of the Dog on the Chinese calendar. Directly opposite the temple, on the Ping River, a boat pier called Tha Sathan Luang (Royal Landing) once received reua maeng pong – scorpion boats, so named for the resemblance of their upturned sterns to a raised scorpion’s tail. The long wooden watercraft were poled upriver from Bangkok to deliver merchandise to Chiang Mai, and to pick up goods to sell on the return trip. The Chinese merchants who thrived on the boat trade began building two-storey homes and shophouses along the river near the boat landing and Wat Ket. Several examples of these buildings, still standing in the Wat Ket neighbourhood, have been nicely restored in recent years. The shophouses tend to have a ground floor built of thick, stucco-plastered brick walls, while the upper floor is constructed of once-abundant teak.
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By the 19th century northern Thailand’s teak trade had expanded considerably. British-owned Bombay Burmah Trading Corporation Ltd., arrived in 1892, soon becoming Chiang Mai’s richest and most powerful teak company, with holdings in Chiang Mai, Lamphun, Lampang, Phrae and Nan. In 1899 British-owned Borneo Company (directed by Louis T. Leonowens, son of Anna Leonowens, the infamous governess from The King & I, a book banned in Thailand for its unflattering depiction of the Thai monarchy) obtained a 100-year lease from the Chiang Mai king for a huge plot of land near the east bank of the Ping River near Wat Ket. The architecture in the district was then further enhanced by the villas of the ‘teak wallahs’, station managers who oversaw the vast teak forests just outside the city at that time. The merchants’ residences were more elaborate than the riverside shophouses, with hipped roofs and much carved wood. Some of the larger, older homes boast ingenious sliding wall panels which can be slid open to allow air to pass through vertical openings and ventilate the room. The presence of the teak wallahs served as a magnet for other foreigners coming to make their mark in the Lanna capital, including American missionaries, and Sikh and Muslim traders. Soon churches, mosques and a Sikh temple were constructed in the Wat Ket district to serve the religious needs of the diverse population.
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The 1921 arrival of the state railway from Bangkok, coupled with the 1955 nationalisation of Thailand’s teak trade, marked an end to an era of post-colonial economics in northern Thailand. Much of Wat Ket district’s impressive 19th- and early 20th century architecture remains in private hands, and fortunately some of it has been preserved for the admiration of future generations. The most impressive legacy of the Borneo Company is the Bain House, also known as 137 Pillars House for the impressive number of solid teak logs installed to support the house well above ground in traditional Lanna style. The Lanna elements are combined with tropical colonial design features, including the aforementioned sliding, louvered wall panels. Originally built in 1887 on the west bank, the house was moved across the river and eventually became the residence of Borneo Company director William Bain. Bain’s descendants recently renovated and repurposed the elegant home as the centerpiece of a boutique hotel that is now the best place to stay anywhere east of the river, especially for those who wish to explore the Wat Ket district. Sixty villas designed in the classic Chiang Mai post-colonial style have been added to the property, while the original 137 Pillars House itself houses dining rooms, lounges and a library. Of the 60 villas and suites recommended are one of the 20 William Bain Terrace Suites, which overlook the historic pillars house, infinity pool and garden wall. Each features a large bedroom, a generous living room, an airy veranda with cane shades for privacy, and an en-suite bathroom with a vast walk-in closet and sunken bath facing tropical foliage. William Bain passed away in 1958, but his son Jarin ‘Jack’ Bain lived on to open a rustic museum in 1999 in nearby Wat Ket. Housed in the former abbot’s residence, the display of quirky memorabilia includes ancient farm tools, local ceramics, ornate Lanna royal court clothing and an extensive collection of historic black-and-white photos. There is much more to explore in the neighbourhood of Wat Ket and 137 Pillars House, including a number of art and design shops. Color Factory displays whimsically 46 | JA N UA RY 2015
painted elephant sculptures designed by such names as Mark Jacobs and Isaac Mizrahi. Twenty percent of the profit from sales here go to support Asian elephants in need. When one talks of the vanguards of contemporary Chiang Mai design, Sop Moei Arts often tops the list. Named for a district in the Salween River basin in the far west of northern Thailand, the company was set up as a cooperative to help Pwo Karen villagers market their traditional handicrafts in novel ways. Traditional Pwo Karen basket shapes, for example, have been transformed into fruit bowls, handbags, wine-bottle holders and other items of daily use in modern urban households. Wall hangings that weave pieces of bamboo and wood together with colourful fabrics are another Sop Moei Arts speciality. Head to Oriental Style to view quality Thai home wares elegantly displayed in a historic six-pillar teak wood house. Just up the road, Suvannabhumi Art Gallery exhibits contemporary art from neighbouring Myanmar. The Wat Ket area has quite a few interesting dining options. Inside the original 137 Pillars House, The Dining Room showcases inspired modern Thai cuisine, while Palette focuses on innovative European cuisine paired with fine wines. A direct descendant of William Bain serves authentic Thai, Burmese and Indian curries on a shaded patio looking out into palms and tropical flowers at Hinlay Curry House, not far from 137 Pillars House. Another semi-hidden spot in the neighbourhood is homey Kitchen Hush, where Japanese chef Kenji Fujita slices delectable slabs of sashimi and rolls perfect sushi inside an old two-story Thai wooden house.
• 137 PILLARS HOUSE 2 Soi 1, Na Wat Ket Rd | 0 5324 7788 • COLOR FACTORY 154-156 Charoen Rat Rd | 0 5324 6448 • SOP MOEI ARTS 150/10 Charoen Rat Rd | 0 5330 6123 • ORIENTAL STYLE 36 Charoen Rat Rd | 0 5324 5724 • HINLAY CURRY 8/1 Na Wat Ket Rd | 0 5332 4621 • KITCHEN HUSH 4 Soi, Kaew Nawarat Rd | 0 5324 7731
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Cutting the Cheese Mongolian Style Yurts and Yaks in the Wide Blue Yonder STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARCO FERRARESE
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realised how important riding was in Mongolia only when my horse launched itself on a mad gallop towards a cliff. In Mongolia, children mount ponies as soon as they can walk. However, this was the first time I had been on a horse. With my legs clamped vice-like to the bounding animal’s sides, I nevertheless bounced up and down like a doomed crash test dummy. How had it come to this? Simple really: I had joined guide Shana and four others on a twelve day tour of central Mongolia and the Gobi desert. On day one we left Ulan Bator in a converted World War II Russian jeep and set out for the Nadaam, the glamorous summer festival where the best of archery,
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horse riding and wrestling kindles the pride of this wild nation. Late in the day we stopped at a yurt nestled between a series of scattered hills and a small river. Grazing yaks with curled horns and hair down to their hooves dotted the grasslands all around and billowing clouds floated in the sky above. Such a pastoral scene in no way hinted at the peril I was soon to face. Mongolian hospitality, the hard way The yurt’s door opened and Shana came in holding a steaming pot of it-might-be-anything-but-smells-likemutton. Barely into her thirties, she was a petite woman
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who led tour groups in the summer and spent the rest of the year with her unemployed husband and their two baby girls in Ulan Bator.
THIS WAS THE FIRST TIME I HAD BEEN ON A HORSE. WITH MY LEGS CLAMPED VICE-LIKE TO THE BOUNDING ANIMAL’S SIDES, I NEVERTHELESS BOUNCED UP AND DOWN LIKE A DOOMED CRASH TEST DUMMY. HOW HAD IT COME TO THIS? “Please eat. Later we can enjoy some activities,” she said putting a steaming bowl of some sort of stewed meat and a cup of fermented milk before me. It was all part of the rural Mongolian hospitality ritual: guests are offered food and a sour drink made with fermented goat’s milk, which most first-time visitors find hard to swallow. Then, out come wooden planks bearing chunks of stone-hard homemade cheese. You have to to suck and chew on it for ages to get it down. Then, if you are male, the men and boys of the family will want to wrestle you. Finally, if you’re lucky, you get to go on a 50 | JA N UA RY 2015
splendid horse ride as the sun sets. It is a glorious way to end a day on the steppes. I’d never ridden a horse before, but since everybody around me seemed extremely relaxed about it, I agreed to give it a go. “C’mon, get on this one, it’s very tame,” Shana pulled my arm and directed me towards a group of Mongolian men who helped me into the saddle on a small white horse. I say saddle but really it was just a simple piece of cloth and a few strips of leather kept together by two curved iron bars fore and aft. “Grip these tight and never let go,” Shana instructed me as one of the men shoved a rough set of leather reins into my hands. It was at this point that a degree of apprehension set in. A brush with death I held tight, to the point where my knuckles were white and my palms were numb, and tried to get used to the movement of the metal bars on my saddle, which hit against the small of my back with every step the horse took. I rode uncomfortably until we reached a river and followed its course towards a cliff where the water dived into a deep gorge to create a majestic waterfall. I was some way behind the others because my stubborn nag kept stopping to graze. They had reached the far end of the path and were dismounting to continue on foot to the base of the waterfall. bangkok101.com
over the border
It was at this point that all hell broke loose. As one of the group, a French woman, clambered off her mount, her saddle slipped sideways and, unbalanced, she fetched the beast a sharp blow right above the knee. The unhappy animal reared up and neighed. It froze in the air for a moment before it whacked the ground with its front hoofs and dashed forward. Upon hearing the noise, my hungry mount lifted its head from the grass, took a peek, and got seriously inspired. It too reared up, thrashed the air like a demented boxer (how I stayed on I shall never know), and then shot off in the direction of the cliff. I managed a fleeting glimpse of the silent mimes that my travelling companions had become. As the wind roared in my ears they stared at me, performing slow-motion nonos with their mouths agape. All I could do was clench the reins even tighter and press my weight into the stirrups. Then I took a glance ahead and realised that the edge of the world was getting nearer and nearer… and I didn’t know what to do. “………LLL” What? “….THE BRIDLE!” Shana’s voice pierced the screaming wind… “PULL ON THE BRIDLE!!” I pulled as hard as I could and sound came abruptly back to my ears. The horse’s teeth snapped around the bridle and it reared up again, a mere meter or two from edge of the cliff. As the animal landed, the metal bar on the front of the saddle dug painfully into my stomach and bangkok101.com
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hips and only by clinging to its neck was I able to prevent myself from being hurled over its head into the abyss. I was exhausted and shaking like a leaf. I had throbbing red welts across my palms from the reins, which stayed firmly in my grip until Shana appeared at my side and relieved me of them. She helped me get off the snorting beast and although she kept up the concerned tour guide’s role, I got the distinct impression she really wanted to slap me for my riding incompetence. The French woman stepped in with a pitiful face. “Are you hurt? I’m so sorry… my horse…” she continued awkwardly, “it was very bloated when we set out. Well… it started passing gas.” “What?!” I couldn’t believe what I’d just heard. “Yes, really… The more we rode, the more it kept farting… it was so loud! The horse shrunk as we went on and that’s why my saddle rolled down… I am so sorry!” “I guess I’m OK…” I put on my best alpha male mask, but I wanted to cry. My pelvis felt like it had been snapped, my lower back burnt like hell, and pins and needles were shooting through my thighs. Shana smiled as if nothing had happened. “You want to see the waterfall now, or would you prefer to return to camp? I have some more fermented milk and cheese ready for you at the yurt…” “I’ll pass on the waterfall, thanks. Please let’s go back. But promise me, Shana, no more cheese.” I figured I’d sucked up enough for one day. JA N UA RY 2015 | 51
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CONNECTED THINKING Le Kinlaads, a solo exhibition of the latest works by Pom Jitpratuk, represents freedom, warmth and endless possibilities. The series of paintings were built in the mind of the artist based on old letters, travel experiences and private thoughts. Evolving in aesthetics, the artist remains true to his approach to the different psyches of the human subconscious. His playful yet detailed work directs the viewer’s eye constantly to the subjects in his paintings. Created in his unique graphic contemporary style, Jitpratuk’s paintings lead us on a journey of moments, endearing expressions, and heartfelt possibilities. The new works offer a dynamic vocabulary that connects viewers with their subjective imaginations. Breaking the confines of nature’s laws, there is no gravity to ground the subjects or restrict the overflow of emotions, especially ones pertaining to love. In effect, the artist invites viewers to break with a realistic approach to life and look beyond. Le Kinlaads is on show from January 9 – February 15 at Koi Art Gallery (245 Sukhumvit 31 Rd).
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exhibitions
INTERIORITY | ชั้น เพดาน และ ผนัง (FLOORS, CEILINGS AND WALLS)
BROWNSTONE STUDIOS 1395 Sukhumvit Soi 77 Bangkok | 08 7703 0448, 08 5483 7675 1pm-1am | brownstonestudio.webs.com
Until January 17 The 37-year-old American artist and professor of architecture faculty at Chulalongkorn University will make the gallery come to life with a work of scenography. ‘Interiority | ชั้น เพดาน และ ผนัง’ is an attempt to incorporate his abstract paintings and layers of paintings, on plastic and fabric into a gallery space which will be transformed into an interior piece of its own. Some paintings will be hanging, others will become part of the wall which represent challenging notions of space and boundary.
MYTHICAL REALITY
SUBHASHOK THE ARTS CENTRE (SAC) [MAP 3/N8] 160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 33 I 0 2662 0299 | Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, SatSun 11am-6.30pm | sacbangkok.com | BTS Phrom Phong
Until January 18 Conscious to painting’s illusionary nature, Wittawat Tongkiew’s symbolic still-life oil paintings look at the deceptiveness of reality, which he deems clouded by cultural and historical predeterminations and perceptions, and how this can affect society.
WHAT ARE WE DRINKING?
ARDEL’S THIRD PLACE GALLERY [MAP 3/R6] The Third Place, Thonglor Soi 10, Soi 55 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2422 2092, 08 4772 2887, 08 6890 2762 | Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | ardelgallery.com | BTS Thonglor
January 19 – March 15 The installation exhibition presents 44 glass works and 366 porcelains represents variety of drinks and bottles. Texts are engraved and lightened by the lights in the bottles. The artwork raises questions about our drink consumption. Drink is not the matter of living survival but social status and personal taste due to influence of advertisement.
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exhibitions
A RT & C U LT U R E
PREDETERMINED
TANG CONTEMPORARY ART [MAP 5/D5] F5, Silom Galleria, 919/3 Soi 19 Silom Rd | 0 2630 1114 | Mon-Sat 11am-7pm | tangcontemporary.com | BTS Surasak
Until February 7 After last year’s exhibition at Whitespace in which he presented drawings of fabricated inventions associated to the relevance of culture and technology, emerging artist Prasert Yodkaew returns with a series of sculptures of mythological animals from the Himavanta forest to explore themes of idealistic belief, scientific truth, and the future potential of genetic modification.
JOYFUL KHAEN, JOYFUL DANCE JIM THOMPSOM ART CENTRE [MAP 4/A3] 6 Kasemsan Soi 2, Rama I Rd | 0 2216 7368 | 9am-5pm jimthompsonhouse.com | BTS National Stadium
Until March 31 This exhibition aims to preserve and promote Morlam folk music and performances from the Isan region in the country’s northeast. Featuring instruments and other materials used in performances, lyrics, photographs, videos and musical recordings, the display’s narration is divided into three parts – the history of Morlam, its local social context, and how it has been influenced by global, social and political trends.
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interview
Abstract Road Warrior After years on the move, established artist Somboon Homtientong has found his Shangri-la in pastoral northern Thailand. Not that living in a rural idyll has slowed him down one iota, as he explains to PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO. 56 | JA N UA RY 2015
bangkok101.com
interview
When did you realise you wanted to be an artist? When I met Chang Saetang, one of Thailand’s foremost poets and painters, I’ve learnt many things from him. He was my first inspiration and he encouraged me to become an artist. Your formative years were spent in Thailand but you then lived and studied in Germany for 24 years. How did you develop as an artist during your time there? I had a hard time when I first moved to Germany because I didn’t know the language and I had to live on a very meagre budget. However, after I graduated I managed to showcase some of my art and eventually gained some public attention – and income! I married while I was there and lived in a kind of artistic commune in Munich where I learned how to be disciplined and organized artistically. One day though I realized that I wanted a new experience. My fellow artists weren’t happy with my decision to leave and asked me to stay. As a compromise I ended up travelling back and forth between Germany and Thailand for a while, until I discovered Chiang Kan and settled down. Why did you choose to settle in rural Chiang Khan? It is such a peaceful town. It lends itself to work. I love the beautiful environment along the Mekong River, and the quality of light you get up here is superb. It is also about as far away as you can be from hectic urban centers like Munich and Bangkok. Being here gives me the freedom to take long motorcycle trips into the countryside, during bangkok101.com
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which I can stop and sketch or paint at leisure when a scene grabs me. Who or what has influenced your style the most? Apart from Chang Saetang in the early years, I have been most influenced by Buddhism. Many of the artists I lived with in Munich had aggressive, sometimes violent styles of painting. I went the other way and adapted religion to my abstract art, giving it a softer feel. Although not a direct influence, I’ve come to love the work of the polymath German artist Joseph Beuys. He is celebrated today as one of the most important and revolutionary artistic figures of the late 20th century. Have you worked in artistic mediums other than paint? Certainly. My work covers sculpture, installation art, drawing and painting. What links the pieces are abstract concepts. I don’t set myself any parameters or limits… I hope to keep on moving forward, producing work in all forms for years to come.
ON THE WAY UNTIL JANUARY 31 NUMTHONG GALLERY 72/3 Aree Soi 5, Soi 7 Phahonyothin Rd | BTS Aree | 0 2617 2794, 08 1918 5067 | gallerynumthong.com | Mon-Sat 11am-6pm
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cheat notes
SERVING UP TOP STREET EATS
T
he focus of this month’s My Bangkok column (see page 112), Chawadee “Chow” Nualkhair is a street food guru. Her first book, Bangkok’s 50 Best Street Food Stalls, was such a success that she decided to venture beyond the capital in her new guide to finding stand-out Thai street food. Thailand’s Best Street Food (Tuttle 2015) blows to pieces the misguided belief that Bangkok is the only place in the Kingdom to find great food on the street. Nualkhair eats her way across the country, giving readers the essential information they need to enjoy delicious trips from north to south and east to west. Drawing on her vast experience, the author provides practical tips on locating remarkable food stalls in urban centres throughout Thailand, including directions on how to find a particular stall; detailed street maps; each vendor’s specialty; serving options, beverages, and noteworthy extras; whether seating is available; and last, but certainly not least, all-important information about bathroom facilities. As a bonus, she includes recipes for the 12 most popular Thai street food dishes adapted for the Western kitchen. Thai street food is one of the world’s hottest culinary trends, and Nualkhair’s Thailand’s Best Street Food makes it easy for foodies to savour memorable dishes wherever their travels take them. Available at Asia Books and Kinokuniya bookstores priced at B525.
TAILS OF THE UNEXPECTED
I
f you’re a dog-loving expat new to the region, you’ll enjoy Harry Howard – Memoirs of an Expat, Frequent Flyer, Cross-Culture Golden Retriever (J Mac Publications, 2014). Penned by Harry’s ‘mum’ – Canadian teacher Julie Howard, who over the past 26 years has lived and worked in Tokyo, Hong Kong, Hanoi, Chiang Mai, Ho Chi Minh City, Phnom Penh, and Bangkok, where she currently resides – through Harry’s voice readers are offered valuable insights and life-lessons on human nature, the overcoming of culture shocks, and the trials and tribulations of settling down in a foreign country. Available at major local bookstores for B620.
58 | JA N UA RY 2015
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art & culture photofeature
BANGKOK THROUGH A WINDOW
W
e serve up a home-grown photo feature this month with a set of thought-provoking images by Bangkok 101’s Willem Deenik. In what he loosely calls his “Peeping Tom” series, the Dutch native and long-time expat captures intimate vignettes of Bangkokians as they unwind at the end of the working day.
“Although I specialise in food photography, I enjoy taking pictures across a broad range of subjects,” Deenik says. “In terms of style, this series of pictures was inspired by the work of American realist painter and print-maker Edward Hopper. Among other things, Hopper was fascinated by urban architecture, especially cityscapes and the people who populate them. He was particularly adept at capturing the solitude and loneliness of individuals and juxtaposing their ennui against the backdrop of the teeming metropolis in which they live. The people I photograph aren’t necessarily lonely, but I love the way they present insular moments of calm and relaxation in what is surely one of the most frenetic cities in the world. Of course, there is a strong element of voyeurism to the pictures, but we are all people-watchers at heart and I always try to treat the subject with respect and good taste.” .................................................................................... You can see more of Willem Deenik’s work at willemdeenik.com.
AJI CRUDO WITH BLOOD ORANGE, POMEGRANATE, SCHEZUAN PEPPER AND ZA’ATAR SALAD: ONE OF THE NEW DISHES ON THE MENU AT EAT ME RESTAURANT 66 | JA N UA RY 2015
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AROY SUGAR RUSH
Candy Crushers unite at Sofitel So Bangkok. Throughout January, Chocolab (G Floor, 2 North Sathorn Road, 02 624 0000) serves special treats inspired by the Candy Crush Soda Saga – the sister title to the red-hot Candy Crush Saga. From sweet frostings to scrumptious candies and sodas, enjoy these treats and more, especially during Cocoa Rush Hour, when you can eat as much as your heart desires. B750++ per person, Monday to Friday from 4pm-5:30pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 3pm-5:30pm.
LET THERE BE CAKE
Indulge your sweet tooth at The Sukothai Bangkok’s Thimian coffee shop and bakery (13/3 South Sathorn Road, 02 344 8888). Throughout January, Executive Pastry Chef Laurent Ganguillet presents a specially-made almond sponge cake topped with a marbled coffee mousse and crunchy chocolate pearls. Cakes range in weight and price from B720 nett for a one-pound cake to B2100 nett for a three-pounder.
LIGHTS OFF, FORKS OUT
For an entirely different eating experience, check out Dine in the Dark at BarSu (Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 10170 Sukhumvit Rd., 02 649 8358), where all your senses will be entertained – except one. This unique culinary concept invites guests to experience a 4-course dinner served by a visually-impaired waiter in a pitch-black private room. Dine in the Dark is available from Tuesday through Saturday, 7pm9:30pm. B1400++ per person, with B50 going to The Foundation for the Blind in Thailand.
FABULOUS FUNGI AT EAT ME
Truffle season is well underway around the world and Chef Tim Butler at Eat Me restaurant off Soi Convent has purchased what may be the biggest black truffle ever seen in Thailand. Weighing in at a whopping 700 grams and costing B30000, the incredibly rare fungus has inspired the chef to create a number of truffle-based dishes among a raft of new offerings on the Eat Me menu. Picks of the bunch are white asparagus with scotch duck egg, black winter truffle and chives, and a luscious dessert of black truffle ice-cream with bourbon jelly and orange puree. Call 02 238 0931 for bookings and information.
bangkok101.com
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meal deals LOBSTER CRAVING AT PARK SOCIETY SOFITEL SO BANGKOK 2 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com Welcome the New Year with a special 5-course lobster menu prepared by Chef Angela Brown at Park Society, Sofitel So Bangkok. Priced at B3500++ per person, the dinner starts with amuse bouche followed by Lobster garden (Canadian lobster medallions, pickled vegetables, sauce vierge, garden florals and leaves), Tom Kha Orzo with lobster and herbs, pan seared foie gras and glazed lobster claw, roasted beef angus tenderloin with lobster ravioli and a Floating Lobster dessert (lemon curd, lobster cake pop, berry sorbet and fresh berries).
TIP-TOP TAPAS ROYAL ORCHID SHERATON HOTEL AND TOWERS 2 Charoen Krung Rd Soi 30 (Captain Bush Lane) | 0 2266 0123 | royalorchidsheraton.com Enjoy authentic tapas on the river at Sambal Bar and Grill Restaurant. Served as part of a Flavourful Tapas promotion, bite-sized treats are priced from B180++ per dish and are available from 5pm to 10.30pm each night. The tapas list is as long as it is appetising: suckling pig spring rolls, spicy shrimp with Cajun seasoning, vegetable tempura with wasabi mayonnaise, and seared Wagyu beef with roasted pepper and capers, to name a few.
WINTER SPECIAL AT IZAKAYA RESTAURANT KU DE TA 39, 40 Floors, Sathorn Square Complex 98 | 0 2108 2000 | kudeta.com/bangkok A 4-course authentic Japanese winter set menu is offered at only B 750++. The set includes a choice of Ebi Sunnomono (green salad), California roll, salmon avocado roll or vegetable roll. The main course offers Tonkatsu, Niku Shallot or Salmon Shioyaki, served with Steamed Gohan and homemade Miso soup. The meal ends with Matcha Chawan Mushi, a dessert created by Executive Pastry Chef Jason Licker.
BIG BLU BRUNCH RADISSON BLU PLAZA BANGKOK 489 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2302 3333 | radisson.com/plazahotel-bangkok Live cooking stations offering a stunning range of globally-inspired dishes served across 2 levels. This global feast of flavours includes Indian, Vietnamese, Thai and European dishes, as well as a dedicated Italian pasta station. Seafood lovers are spoilt with an extensive choice of seafood. Selections of Chinese dishes are also offered. A spectacular assortment of desserts and imported cheeses are also available. The brunch is priced at B1190++ per person including free flow soft beverages, and B1790++ per person including free flow soft and selected alcoholic beverages.
BUY 2 GET 1 FREE BANGKOK 101 BURGER PROMOTION THE U.S. STEAKHOUSE 156-158 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 087 993 3527 Every Tuesday to Saturday throughout the month of January, burger lovers get one for free when they buy any two U.S.D.A. Top Ground Sirloin 180 gram beef burgers. The special deal can be used for the purchase of any burger option, including beef burger, cheese burger, bacon and cheese burger or DJ’s chilli burger between 11.30am and 2pm. Exclusively for Bangkok 101 fans at lunchtime only. Simply mention “Bangkok 101 sent me for the best beef burger in town” and get another burger for free!
BUBBLY SUNDAY BRUNCH AT ESPRESSO INTERCONTINENTAL BANGKOK 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0444 | intercontinental.com/icbangkok Treat family and friends to Espresso’s fabulous Sunday brunch between 12pm-3pm. Enjoy an array of premium delicacies from around the globe, all complimented by smooth live jazz. Highlight seafood selections include Maine lobster, Fin de Claire oysters, New Zealand mussels and Japanese-grade sashimi. Meat choices include grilled Australian lamb, Wagyu beef, foie gras and lamb hot pot. New chocolate and Belgian desserts brings the feast to a sweet end. Priced at B1999++ for adults and B999++ for children aged 6-12. 68 | JA N UA RY 2015
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review
FOOD & DRIN K
THE CAPITAL BY WATER LIBRARY - New York sensibilities, French sophistication The Chong Nonsi quarter of the city continues to expand with the recent opening of steak and seafood restaurant The Capital by Water Library. Despite its office block location, The Capital exudes a pleasing boulevard café ambiance with outside tables and a bright and airy anteroom illuminated by large windows. Further in is the more testosteronefriendly ambiance you might normally associate with a steakhouse, with decor modelled on a 1930s bank. It has brass safety deposit boxes on the wall and a heavy bank vault door leading to a private room. The central bar is flanked by throwback wooden cabinets holding bottles of tequila, cognac and single malts, and there’s a mix of tables and booth seating, grey pin-stripe sofas and what must be the heaviest dining chairs in town. Cocktails run from B280-B650. Try the excellent martini, made with a hit of alcohol you can smell from across the table, as you browse the menu. This is divided into salads and soups, pastas, fish and seafood, burgers and sandwiches, plus a wide pick of meat cuts. The prawn cocktail starter (B380) comes as three large whole prawns wand a side dip of mayonnaise with burnt pepper and spices that leaves a lingering smokiness in the back of the nose. The meaty fresh Pacific Bay oysters (B110 each) are a knockout served with a yuzu koshu and chilli sauce just powerful enough to sting the lips. bangkok101.com
Meats come with a set of three salt pots – Malden sea salt, Himalayan with merlot, and Habanero with cigar smoke. Unfortunately, the Wagyu rib eye (B2000) was so over seasoned it was impossible to try any of them. Otherwise, though, it was a tasty piece of meat, the accompanying red wine jus (B150) was deep and flavourful, and the sides of mushrooms and potato Dauphinoise (B150 each) both well cooked. The steaks have an attractive entry point of B750 for grass fed German tenderloin. The broad wine list (from B1200) has a decent spread of grapes and regions, but only one sparkler and two each of white and red by the glass (B260-B320). That said, there will be a larger selection soon, plus a good quality wine of the month at cost price. Desserts include an excellent lemon Calamansi tart (B270), served with a satisfying crispy meringue that was so light it could have been candy floss, and a very short short crust pastry that melted to nothing on the bite. The Capital has a welcoming relaxed feel unlike many of the stiffer steakhouses, and a price structure that allows a place at the table for those not on expense accounts.
THE CAPITAL BY WATER LIBRARY [MAP 3/N10] Level 3, Empire Tower, South Sathorn Rd | 0 2286 9548 waterlibrary.com | 1.30am-midnight (kitchen closes at 11pm)
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review
PANORAMA RESTAURANT AND BAR - Samba San comes to Bangkok Virtually all of Bangkok’s major hotels have an all-day restaurant featuring a buffet. The Crowne Plaza Bangkok in the heart of the Silom business district is no exception. But the hotel’s version of this ubiquitous phenomenon far exceeds most of the competition: It has verve, elan and an imaginative array of food that puts it near the head of the class. For starters, there are great views of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and the surrounding city skyline from its floor to ceiling windows on the 23rd floor. The décor itself is several steps above the norm: soft lighting, lots of warm dark wood, an open kitchen and a smashing bar that fronts on the massive windows. In addition to the 200 regular seats, including a goodly number on an outside terrace, there is a small dining room where guests can enjoy dishes prepared specially for them by a personal chef. Although the restaurant serves breakfast and lunch, it is the dinner buffet designed by Executive Chef Marco Turatti and his team that has tongues wagging. Affectionately named “Samba San,” the buffet (B1200, Sun-Thurs; B1800++, Fri-Sat) features Brazilian spirit and Japanese finesse – and lots of signature dishes from each cuisine. Start a la Japanese with sashimi or sushi, or go Brazilian and opt for the ceviche, seafood marinated with lime and a mix of cilantro, onion garlic and sugar. 70 | JA N UA RY 2015
Next up try the Brazilian churrasco grill specialities available from servers roaming the restaurant with giant skewers of grilled goodies like beef picanha fillet, lamb rack, chorizo sausage, pork chops, baby chicken marinated with thyme and yogurt, plus some delectable grilled pineapple flavoured with cinnamon and brown sugar. For those who prefer a more traditional buffet, there is an excellent salad bar; a great selection of cold cuts and terrines; a fresh cheese station; a capital selection of bread and rolls and a small oven to heat them up; many great desserts prepared by pastry chef Hakim Ounas; and a selection Asian food, including those all-important noodle dishes. On Fridays and Saturdays there is a huge selection of seafood on ice that includes Alaskan king crab, tiger prawns, black mussels, rock lobster and much more. The extensive wine list has something to satisfy everyone and a great selection of cocktails, including several that add Sake to the mix. A must is a caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail, a heady blend of cachaça – a distilled spirit made from sugar cane juice – sugar and lime.
PANORAMA RESTAURANT AND BAR [MAP 5/K5] Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, 952 Rama IV Rd, 23rd Floor 0 2632 9000 | Daily 6.30am-10.30pm
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Temptation Scene
scalini presents the oysterswine pairspeci al created ings by egidio latorraca by roberto visaggio in 1920’s italian-american style performing during month of january information reservation
02-6206666
11 sukhumvit soi 24, khlong ton, khlong toei, bangkok 10110 thailand
hilton sukhumvit bangkok facebook.com/scalinibangkok
@hiltonbkk#scalinibkk bts skytrain: phrom phong
FOOD & DRIN K
review
KAI - Antipodean bites sure to delight It’s not immediately obvious what ‘Kiwi cuisine’ actually means, but Kai, the handsome eatery that opened on Sathorn Soi 12 earlier this year, makes an impressive fist of answering the question. Run by the same people who own Snapper on Sukhumvit Soi 11, Kai emphasizes quality ingredients while retaining uncomplicated presentations; the produce is allowed to speak for itself: a fundamental aspect of Kiwi cuisine. There’s a noticeable skew towards seafood on the menu, but the all-day dining concept allows for prime cuts of New Zealand meat and an impressive selection of burgers and sandwiches. Kiwis, after all, don’t need to be asked twice to sing the praises of their lamb and beef. Try the Canterbury Plains sandwich (B320), which comes packed with succulent New Zealand lamb, mint paste, honey-roasted carrots and rosemary potato. Or the Mini Moa (B300) with BBQ chicken, lettuce, cucumber and tomato. There’s no attempt to reinvent the wheel here – this is unpretentious but immensely satisfying fare and the extra attention paid to finding quality ingredients pays dividends. The proteins burst with colour and flavour, while the greens add a delicious crunch. That said, it’s the seafood elements that really stand out and elevate the menu. There’s a refinement to these dishes that allows Kai to pivot from being an attractive cafe-style venue by day to a viable evening dining spot. 72 | JA N UA RY 2015
Try, for example, the South Pacific ceviche (B350), made with gurnard marinated in lemon juice, garlic, ginger and chilli, topped with tomato, red onions, coriander and coconut cream. The citrus tang wonderfully offsets the natural flavours of seafood. Also good are the grilled wild tiger prawns (B680) basted with garlic and parsley butter. Hard to ignore too are the top-shelf Bluff oysters (four for B560), served with a squeeze of lemon and malt vinegar on the side. The mussels (B240) are also excellent, dressed up a little more extravagantly with lashings of Mornay sauce and herb stuffing. Fish and chips is more basic but no less enjoyable. Go for the Orange Roughy (B550) or Southern Hake (B450), served crumbed and pan-fried alongside a generous portion of thick-cut chips. They’re a well-executed staple on Kai’s menu, which specializes in straightforward dishes created with real pride in the produce. Wash all this down with a Kiwi craft beer or a crisp white wine and what you have is another appealing culinary destination in one of the city’s emerging food hubs.
KAI [MAP 5/G5] 142/22-23 Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 3800 kai-bangkok.com | 8.30am-5pm
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Every Friday!
FOOD & DRIN K
review
VERTIGO GRILL & MOON BAR - Hitting the Culinary Heights In a city that has its fair share of outstanding roof-top restaurants, Banyan Tree Bangkok’s Vertigo Grill & Moon Bar on Sathorn Road remains a premier hot spot for al fresco dining. Perennially popular with the capital’s glitterati, expats and well-heeled tourists, the lofty 61st floor eatery offers jaw-dropping 360-degree views of the city skyline. Romantic in the extreme, the venue fills pretty quickly between 6pm and 6.45pm, as patrons arrive to catch cooling breezes and watch the sun go down over a few drinks before enjoying a meal under the stars. Hence, bookings are highly recommended. Prices here are what you’d expect given the spectacular location, and not to mention the fact that you are drinking and dining in a well-established 5-star city hotel (which is also why a dress code is in operation, so no shorts, flip-flops or sleeveless tops, please). Begin your evening with a cocktail or two alongside the beautiful people at the elevated Moon Bar. Recommended is the signature Vertigo Sunset (B540++), a heady concoction of Malibu and pineapple, cranberry, and lime juice. Also excellent is the Thai Sabai (B540++), made with local Mekhong whisky, lime juice, basil leaves and soda. When the time comes to adjourn to your table for dinner, start with spicy Thai tuna ceviche with avocado, cilantro and shallots (B750++). Prepared with cubes 74 | J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 5
of lean tuna and chunky pieces of avocado, it has a wonderful, tangy sweet and sour sharpness. A good counterpoint is Angus beef carpaccio with parmigiano and black truffle (B900++), which provides earthy, robust flavours that balance out the tartness of the ceviche. Vertigo has a fine selection of main courses, particularly grilled offerings encompassing various cuts of imported steak and healthy fish, pork and chicken dishes. Flamegrilled lamb rack with minted potatoes and wild mushroom ragout (B2200++), one of the outlet’s signature dishes, is satisfyingly rich and filling. Pasta dishes feature large on the menu too, and mushroom and spinach cannelloni with red pepper, basil salsa and truffle oil (B650++) makes for a fine vegetarian option. In terms of fish, try the wild trout salmon (B1450++), which has a wonderfully subtle buttery flavour. A pioneer of the roof-top dining scene in Bangkok, Vertigo nevertheless wears its preeminence lightly, retaining a relaxed yet sophisticated vibe. Whether for post-work drinks or an intimate dinner with stunning views, doubtless it will continue to be a top-of-mind venue for years to come.
VERTIGO GRILL & MOON BAR
[MAP5 /K8]
Banyan Tree Bangkok | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com/bangkok Vertigo open daily 6pm-11pm, Moon Bar open daily 5pm-1am
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review
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THE KITCHEN TABLE - A touch of style Cool and chic, W Bangkok hotel adds a vibrant modern feel to North Sathorn Road and the area around Chong Nongsri BTS Station. The Kitchen Table, its signature restaurant located on the 2nd floor, strives to be a ‘modern bistro’ with food that is honest, wholesome and full of flavour. The interior is warm and svelte with an open kitchen that has a small counter for those who enjoy watching chefs in action. Regular seating includes both booths and tables and chairs. There is also an extra-large table for groups of up to ten and a separate bar for those who want to enjoy cocktails and snacks. The restaurant is under the stewardship of Culinary Director Thaneht Naovarat, usually referred to as Chef Keng. He has recently added a ‘Food from the Heart’ menu to complement what is already on offer. One of the signature dishes, a popular choice with loyal patrons, is fettucini with Maine lobster (B780). It offers a delightful combination of lobster, Pernod cream sauce, sliced organic fennel and Japanese salmon roe for a salty counterpoint. Equally enjoyable is the slow cooked duck breast (B820), finished by frying to create an extra-crispy skin. Served with a superb orange sauce, it is a real treat. Other dishes that catch the eye are the 48 hour braised beef short ribs (B950), which has a rich flavour that can only be bangkok101.com
achieved by attentive slow cooking, and the sweet glazed pork ribs scented with Szechuan pepper (B720). In this creation, Chef Keng blends Asian flavours with the smoky delights of American-style BBQ ribs. For those who enjoy Thai food, Chef Keng has produced several signature dishes. These include grilled minced prawns on a lemongrass skewer; wok-fried soft shell crab and Maine lobster with creamy curry sauce; deep-fried snow fish with a mild curry sauce; and a delicious pan-fried French duck liver topped with chili-lime dressing and aromatic herbs and served on a Thai rice cracker. It is surprising just how well the Thai dressing melds with the duck liver. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. A favourite option with many people at lunch is the My Burger, My Style promotion (B470), which allows diners to create their own burger and pick from a choice of side dishes and soft drinks. If you are looking for a restaurant with good food and an ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles, The Kitchen Table is a fine choice.
THE KITCHEN TABLE
[MAP 5/G7]
W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 whotelbangkok.com | Daily 06.30am-10.30pm
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review
EATHAI - Travel the Kingdom without leaving Bangkok The concept of the Eathai food court at Central Embassy is simple but ambitious: present diners with the finest flavours representing every region of Thailand. That’s no small feat, considering that Thai cuisine is as diverse as the country’s landscapes and cultures. And yet this cosy venue, set in a quiet corner of Bangkok’s newest luxury shopping mall, has succeeded in doing just that – and then some. Separated by region, Eathai’s offerings leads diners on a culinary tour of the country. The North is represented by Khun Mor’s Cuisine. From house-made Sai Aua to Khao Soy, all the favourites that are hard to find in Bangkok are here. Try the Northern Set Menu (B110), which features the exceedingly rare Gaeng Hang Lay. The pleasant fading aftertaste of cinnamon and ginger cut through the richness of the pork and deep-brown curry sauce. Topped off with sticky rice and a green chilli dipping sauce, this set meal provides an authentic taste of Chiang Mai. Now move on to Isaan where Kai Yang Korat, a branch of the renowned chain from Nakhon Ratchasima, whips up a mountainous Som Tum Tad (B250). Disguised on the menu as “mixed papaya salad,” this massive metal tray hits the table brimming with accoutrements: boiled egg, rice noodles, mussels in the shell, cooked shrimp, and sour sausage, to name a few. Try it “priew wan” (sweet and sour) to balance the tang of fermented fish sauce. 76 | JA N UA RY 2015
As you munch through the never-ending pile of green papaya, take in the décor. Monolithic taupe mortars and pestles lend the Isaan section charm, the subtle features suggestive of a lazy lunch in a lakeside gazebo. Other regions likewise represent their home turf: raised circular benches in the North, food carts in the Street Food Market, southern clay pots at the door, and classic Thai motifs adorn the Central walls. Altogether the décor adds layers to the underlying theme. Other best sellers include Bai Leang Pad Kai (B180), a green leaf from the South stir-fried with egg and topped with crispy dried shrimp; Khanom Jeen Nam Ya (B185), which hides a powerful kick behind a decadent yellow curry sauce and tender crab meat; a perfect Hoy Tod (B120) from a Bang Rak street food vendor; and various delicious drinks, like the Pineapple Slush (B99) that comes, appropriately enough, in a hollowed out pineapple. Eathai at Central Embassy might be ambitious in scope, but its ambition is backed by a wealth of flawless flavours.
EATHAI AT CENTRAL EMBASSY
[MAP 4/K4]
Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2119 7777 centralembassy.com/eathai | 10am-10pm
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FOOD & DRIN K
eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
TELL ME WHAT YOU DON’T EAT!
A
mong the skyscrapers of Sathorn there is an oasis of old wooden houses. Situated downstairs in one of them is a bakery, while upstairs there is a restaurant. It is called Tham Sue Tham Suan, meaning “make blouse – make garden.” There is no longer a garden or, for that matter, a blouse-making shop. Instead, it’s all about food. Owner-chef Juruwan, or Jub, used to have a dressmaking shop in the Ratchawat area but four years ago she moved to this house to do what she loves best: cooking. When I first arrive I am confused. Have I accidentally wandered into someone’s home? Is this the right address? The space is Khun Jub’s ‘food studio’ and I am mesmerized by the blend of kitchen, dining area and what looks like a bric-a-brac showroom to one side. “When I grew up, the only activity we did as a family was cooking and eating,” Jub tells me. As a girl, she knew all the herbs in family’s garden and could grab anything and craft it into the food. “My cooking style has always been based on intuition and feeling.” bangkok101.com
Her daily menu often begins with a phone call from the prospective diner. “What don’t you like to eat?” she asks. Or she will simply tell you what she has on as a special. Normally she offers four to five dishes: a soup, a salad, a pasta dish and a main course, all predicated by seasonal ingredients and what she finds daily in the market. Trust me, whatever she cooks will be good. Call Jub to make a reservation and check on the opening hours. Her price is roughly B650 per person but this varies depending on what she is serving on the day. The restaurant seats around 25 people and is available for private lunches and dinners.
Getting there: Tham Sue Tham Suan is situated in Soi Silom 9. Enter the soi and keep going towards the end. When the road splits, keep left and go straight as the alley narrows. The wooden two-story house is on the right side. If you get lost, call Jub on 08 1843 9628 for directions!
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in the kitchen
JESS BARNES talks to Howard Richardson
I’ve nipped down the back alley and up the narrow stairs, past a sign reading, “Home Cooked Comfort Food”. The wedge-shaped room at the top has a mere nine tables and the ambiance of a works’ canteen, complete with corrugated iron and ‘chandeliers’ made of mechanics’ lamps. The doors have just opened for the night’s service. I grab a seat at the counter top of reclaimed wood, overlooking the tiny open kitchen where chef Jess Barnes is about to prepare a salad of crab, ajo blanco, cucumber, grapes and chorizo oil. His tattooed arms hang beneath a T-shirt and stripy butcher’s apron. “Ajo blanco is a Spanish bread soup,” he says. “With roasted almonds, garlic, milk and sherry vinegar. In this version, we make it less soupy by adding more bread, then blend everything together.” It goes on the plate with blue swimmer crab from the Gulf of Thailand, fresh cucumber, pickled shallots and pickled grapes. “Traditionally, ajo blanco would be served with fresh grapes,” Jess says. Nothing dominates the varied flavours, and there’s a lot happening texturally. The crab is luscious and sweet, which pairs well with the creamy ajo blanco and fresh cucumber. The pickled grapes offer a good firm bite and a gush of sweet juice that fills the mouth as they pop, and there’s a gentle spice and smokiness that comes from the chorizo oil. “We add chorizo to olive oil with garlic and smoked paprika and leave it to infuse for a day or so,” Jess says. “Then we add tabasco.” 78 | JA N UA RY 2015
As he talks, chefs move a parade of pots from hobs and ovens. They’re filled with things like pork neck with paprika; and veal shin with carrots in a rich dark stock. Another has a clutch of whole ducks in a state of semiconfit in fat and duck stock. The sort of cooking that has seen Jess Barnes become one of Bangkok’s most iconic chefs. And he has plans to expand. “Around the middle of this year,” he says, “I’ll be opening a new place on Sathorn Soi 12 with Tim Butler [of Eat Me], a more refined, dedicated restaurant space.” Right now, he’s putting together another salad, this one with sliced figs, feta cheese, toasted pistachios and lardo (white sheets of salted and dried pork fat). “Everything is local except the pistachios,” he says. The juicy sweet figs work very well with the saltiness of the lardo. The feta has been whipped, so it’s light and liquid, the nut crumbles add crunch, and there’s the merest hint of chilli that wakens the palate. “It’s common to have figs with Parma ham, so using lardo is not too far away from that,” Jess says. “I’ve learned more to work with what I have.” It’s another example of his deftness for giving attractive tweaks to conventional ideas.
OPPOSITE MESS HALL
[MAP 3/Q10]
27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 0 2662 6330 | oppositebangkok.com Sun noon-2.30pm, Tues-Sun 6.30pm-late (last food orders 10.30pm)
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YTSB
JAPANESE TAIHEI
[MAP 5/L8]
53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm From the moment the platter of sashimi moriawase (B520; left, second-bottom) comes out, prime seafood cuts delicately arranged, it’s clear that there is a real commitment to quality. The presentation is also immaculate, offering a swathe of bright colours – bright pinks and flashes of silver-grey. It’s beautiful food. And it tastes pretty damn fine as well, the tuna, in particular, soft and slightly salty on its own, mild enough to work in the mouth alongside a dab of soy and wasabi. Another highlight is the beef teriyaki (B580), sourced from Australia and broiled, before coming out served with seasonal greens, again bursting with colour. If you’re not super-keen to fill up on red meat, try the gindara miso (B600; left, second top). It’s a cod fish cooked to perfection, kissed on each side just long enough to turn the skin crispy, before being served with tangy miso seasoning. There’s also a selection of tempura to choose from, whether you fancy prawns (B450), pork skewers (B380) or chicken karage (B350).
YTSB [MAP 8/J12] 3F VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phayathai Rd | 0 2309 3939 | facebook.com/YTSB.BKK | 6pm-11pm The odd-looking name is an abbreviation for Yellow Tail Sushi Bar, which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. The fish has different names according to size and stage but is known as yellowtail once it reaches maturity and is ready to eat. Upon a first glance, the restaurant is decked out with chic Japanese-themed décor rather than authentic Japanese style. The soft yellow lighting creates a low-key ambience likely to draw you in. It’s also on the fourth floor of VIE Hotel – so before you settle in, head downstairs to the outdoor terrace on the third floor, where you can still order food bangkok101.com
and drinks from the well-stocked bar. The name of the venue might suggest that the menu is all about yellowtail, but there’s real variety. If you’re in a group, it’s hard to ignore the set of appetisers (B1180) composed of dried stingray fin, dried shrimps, fried salmon and salted ginkgo. It arrives on a long bamboo platter, emphasizing YTSB’s fusion influences, as opposed to taking the strictly traditional route. If you want to branch out beyond the raw fish, there are alternatives with wagyu and chicken. Maybe try the kagoshimawagyu namban yaki (B2500), cooked with Japanese seasoning and topped with sesame, mushroom, and asparagus. Each bite is tender, and the Japanese seasoning is exquisite. But the spotlight still comes back to the sashimi, especially the aburi Hamachi jalapeno, which includes five pieces for B600.
ZUMA [MAP 4/G6] Ground Fl, 159 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2252 4707 zumarestaurant.com | 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm The style and presentation of the dishes is unmistakably contemporary – authentic but not traditional – exemplified by a particularly snazzy range of cocktails, including the Rubabu (B295), which blends sake and vodka with fresh passionfruit. But, of course, it’s the food that really matters. Dishes come out in no precise order and can be shared or eaten individually. The technique required to execute the smaller dishes is truly impressive and, because of Zuma’s three open kitchens, customers can watch the chefs at work. There are several highlights, though, including the sliced yellowtail served with green chilli relish, ponzu and pickled garlic (B410) – the effect is stunning, a mouthful of the most delicately textured seafood packed with light but still intense flavour. No less impressive are the plates of nigiri sushi and selected sashimi (B1100) – Japanese food has become so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget how it’s meant to taste when it’s done with absolute precision and attention to detail.
FRENCH CHEZ PAPE [MAP 3/F9] 1/28-29 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and JA N UA RY 2015 | 79
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listings dressing (B510). It’s a fine example of Chez’s Pape’s commitment to doing the inimitably French things well while borrowing and augmented with inspired touches from elsewhere.
SCALINI [MAP 3/N12] Scalini great bread, seafood and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed but that’s not to say Chez Pape feels routine. Rather, there are enough surprises, both in terms of the combinations and the presentation to elevate Chez Pape’s food to something more impressive. Starting with the appetisers, there is a ceviche of barracuda in chilli and citrus (B160) or the tartare of avocado, crab and green apple (above right, B200), both hitting the right notes: light, fresh, seafood flavours offset with the right amount of seasonings. But perhaps it’s in the more provincial dishes that Chez Pape really declares its hand, offering a port-marinated foie gras terrine, served with mango marmalade (B285). The early courses are certainly impressive enough to build expectation for the mains without being so conceptheavy that they create confusion. And, indeed, the big plates tell you everything you need to know about Chez Pape’s ambitions. The pan-seared beef flank, an exquisite cut of meat, comes with goatcheese ravioli and garnished with virgin sauce (B450) – it’s a deeply satisfying combination. Twisting the formula a little further is the duck breast served with apples, spinach and Japanese citrus
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Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com/en | Noon2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Bangkok is, naturally enough, best known for its Thai food, with other Asian cuisines not far behind. But these days, European food – French or Italian – is booming, particularly when served with a twist. So it is with Scalini – it’s ostensibly a modern Italian place but it riffs on a New York connection, while borrowing bits and pieces from the international table. So, in short, it’s Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. It’s apparent from the antipastis, which include a tuna and salmon tartar, with lemon aioli, mango salad and seared ciabatta (B450) – retaining a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced combinations. Other dishes stay closer to home, such as the Wagyu beef carpaccio, with porcini salsa, rocket and parmesan, served with white truffle vinaigrette (B570). The rich, satisfying taste of Italian food has an extra layer of complexity. And it’s on show again with the Hokkaido scallops, served here with celery, red onion, tomatoes, basil and cherry vinaigrette (B480). These adventurously designed openers set the bar high so it’s perversely pleasing that the pastas tack slightly more toward the traditional, although the pumpkin and sage ravioli (B380) still has a surprisingly delicate flavour and the
Tables duck ragout with black truffle and tonino pecorino (B600) is one of the absolute stand-outs, moist without becoming soupy, retaining a kick without being overbearing. So far, this balancing act has worked a treat – the concept is clear but it’s still all about the food. It proves slightly harder to adapt this approach to the mains, though.
INTERNATIONAL TABLES Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants and the menu takes full advantage of the theatre. There are wooden floors, potted plants, oxidised mirrors and, high on the walls, largerthan-life cartoonish figures of waiters that lighten the formality. And, despite being a mezzanine restaurant overlooking the colossal pillars in the Erawan’s classically themed lobby, the only overspill of noise is the pleasant bubbling of water from fountains and a jazz trio playing on the landing. The menu is billed as
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listings pan-European and starts with items like meaty and sweet sautéed scallops (B750) balanced by chorizo and the sharp bite of wholegrain mustard and olives. The Caesar salad (B490) is wisely light on dressing so it doesn’t overwhelm the crispy leaves, grown at the Hyatt’s organic farm in Korat. Other classic dishes are the Boston lobster bisque (B850), which is perhaps a little too creamy, and the steak au poivre (B1300), cooked in the oven but finished in full view, flambéed in cognac and served under a beautiful rich sauce.
CREPES & CO 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) | 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious. The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal after-dinner following. Or any time, for that matter. You can keep it simple by going for the Crepe Josephine (B240), which is a banana and chestnut cream served with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce on top. But if you’ve got a major sweet tooth, you’ll probably gravitate toward the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging invitingly with vanilla ice cream and lathered in a rich, tangy raspberry sauce. These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you have a real craving. Going down the list reveals some eye-popping desserts – try the Crepe Mango Coconut (B200), which somehow works despite the unusual pairing of freshmango and coconut slices. The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B335), which comes out rinsed in apple liqueur and filled with sautee apple and rum raisin ice cream. And then they set that baby on fire.
PARK SOCIETY Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 0 2624 0000 | 5pm-1am (bar), 6pm-10pm (restaurant) A large walk-in kitchen as you enter has a generous chef’s table stacked with cured meats, where you can choose to dine. It leads to a curiously shaped dining space with those beautiful views bangkok101.com
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La Bottega Di Luca through full wall windows. The walls themselves and ceiling are rhomboid mirrored panels reflecting Victorian style lamps, hexagonal marble dining tables and waiters in Christian Lacroix-designed, Thai-influenced uniforms, complete with cummerbunds, knee socks and traditional wide-thighed pantaloons. The whole has an almost art deco angularity, the effect pleasantly disorienting, like a fairground hall of mirrors. The modern international menu changes daily according to available produce and starts with a mix of stalwart and exclusive items like oysters (six for B700), Hokkaido scallops (B900) and Aran Valley caviar (B4,999 for 30g). Mains are well presented, the off-kilter square plates adorned with smears and blobs of colourful purée are an arty backdrop for dishes like pigeon with gnocchi and baby vegetables (B1400/half, B2600/ whole). The well-chosen wine list, with most bottles between B2000 and B4000, has 12 wines and four sparkling by the glass. To finish, there’s a choice of three desserts or cheese plates.
ITALIAN LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA [MAP 3/P8] The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2204 1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm Nestled in a smallish mall on soi 49, La Bottega di Luca is an immediately welcoming space, effortlessly combining indoor-outdoor seating and cultivating a relaxed vibe that makes it a neighbourhood favourite with real panache. Luca, who runs the show, updates the parts of the menu regularly and orders produce in from Italy fortnightly. The antipasti start at B290 and the grilledscamorza (B390) – that’s smoked mozzarella – wrapped in speck ham with mushrooms and red wine sauce is a delight. It’s a simple idea but the evident care taken in preparation elevates this to a gorgeous starter, reminding diners just how much they’ve come to miss cheese in Bangkok. And JA N UA RY 2015 | 81
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listings
Rossini’s that sauce – you’ll be tempted to lick the plate clean. There’s a sizeable menu and it can be tricky to know which direction to take. The most eye-catching salad is the seafood combination (B220) with steamed prawns, baby squid, mussels and clams seasonedwith garlic. But who are we kidding? We’rehere for the rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion. That means it’s hard to go past the homemade pasta that gets freshly made every day – the dishes are reasonably priced at B240-490, although you’ll be shelling out B1790 if you go for the lobster.
ROSSINI’S [MAP 3/H10] Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2653 0333| sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 6pm-10.30pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The decor is steadfastly traditional, designed like the dining room of a medieval Tuscan castle, complete with heavy fireplace, a tiled floor that looks almost cobbled, and wooden beams and domes in the ceiling. The menu, however, has lots of moderntouches, while sticking to the flavours of thetraditional Italian kitchen. Among the starters,seared goose liver (B790) is a rich pudding of a dish, plated with pumpkin espuma and very
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sweet amaretti crumble. Black cod (B920) is a good choice for the main course: weighty and pure white, it sits like an iceberg in potato foam, with additions of olives and San Daniele ham powder adding salty brine to enhance the sea flavours. The trio of soups are more traditional: Tuscan artichoke, minestrone and seafood with garlic bruschetta (B580), in which a delicate, thin and light tasting broth has small islands of seabass and a central tower of chunky scallops. Rossini’s has more reasonable wine prices than many restaurants in this bracket, courtesy of its Primo Vino policy, which promises “top shelf wines at cellar prices”.
INDIAN INDUS [MAP 3/P12] 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | 0 2258 4900 indusbangkok.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm Indian restaurants sometimes run the risk of being slightly same-same – from the decor to the flavours, there seems to be a formula that works and plenty of places are happy to march to the same tune. The most gratifying thing about Indus is that it makes certain welljudged departures – there’s a decidedly modern, well-lit interior withsweeping views of a garden dining area, as well as a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect from Indian food while dialling down the stodge and oiliness that sometimes accompany it. Furthermore, most Indian restaurants hew rigidly to northern-style food and although those notes are present in most of Indus’s curries, they all riff
Rang Mahal more broadly on Indian-Chinese – or Himalayan – combinations.All in all, it’s quite an ambitious venture inmodern Indian cuisine. Still, it begins traditionally enough, with a tandoori platter, including a creamy broccoli (B190), chicken in yoghurt and Shahi Jeera (B320) and tiger prawns in Kashmiri chilli paste, garlic, ginger and coriander. It comes out with that slightly charred goodness that is the hallmark of Tandoori, with that smokey goodness that, done well, heightens rather than overwhelms other flavours. Among the curries, the old favourites are also the stand-outs. If there’s a signature dish, though, it’s the raan. It’s part of an inspired selection of kebabs and requires 24 hours’ advance notice. But it’s well worth the wait.
RANG MAHAL [MAP 3/K11] 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The name means ‘palace of colours’ and there is definitely a courtly air about it all, down to the traditional Indian band whose lilting music fills the air. Equally, while Indian cuisine routinely delivers powerful flavours, the refined, almost delicate food served at Rang Mahal is a rarity. Among
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THAI BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL [MAP 5/D7]
Blue Elephant the appetisers, the papri chaat (B175) and Punjabi samosa (B190) are relatively straightforward but the well-judged lightness and the fact the doughiness is not overdone mean these bite-sized dishes whet the appetite. Proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs come out. The tandoori prawn (B295 per piece, main) is smoked to perfection in Indian spices, while the murgh malai (B425) combines chicken and cream cheese for an extra kick. The house specialty, though, is the raan-e-khyber (B950 for half, B1595 for whole) – a leg of lamb marinated in rum, herbs and spices before being barbecued. It’s an impressive dish, rustic in appearance but perfectly executed, the chunks of lamb peeling effortlessly from the bone, sweet and smokey at the same time. The curries are equally successful in delivering a heightened version of familiar dishes. The Goan fish curry (B495) combines a lightly sautéed fish seasoned with a fragrant mix of onions, garlic and spices, cooked in a sauce of tomatoes and coconut gravy, the flavours deftly balanced against each other. In the kashmiri rogan josh (B525, top left), the mutton is irresistibly tender, more casserole than curry, a spectacular rendition of one of the most familiar staples.
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233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 | blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm The Blue Elephant brand has been wildly successful since it was first established in 1980, introducing Thai food to the world through restaurants dotted all over the place, including those in London, Paris and Dubai. And, of course, there’s one in Bangkok, just under Surasak BTS in a gorgeous oldfashioned Thai building. When you take in the traditional interior, it’s no surprise that Blue Elephant’s food is most confidently presented when they are hewing toward cuisine that, as categorized on their menu, derives from “Thai cooking of the past”. The massaman lamb (B580) is immaculately presented with a sweet, fragrant sauce, while the tom jiew kai (B240) has all the restorative powers of chicken soup, with a deliciously peppery aftertaste. However, Blue Elephant is not content to let the grass grow under them and that’s why, perhaps sensing that Thai food has increasingly been adapted into a more modern, international cuisine, there is also a section of the menu for Thai food “of today” and “of tomorrow”. There are undoubtedly some interesting combinations, as Blue Elephant expands its playbook beyond the more familiar staples. There’s the grilled spare ribs with honey (B380) and a black chicken green curry (B680), using rare black chicken in coconut milk, with sweet basil and pea aubergines. For those interested in trying buffalo, there’s also
Ruen Urai a starter-sized satay set of Buffalo fillets from Ubon Ratchatanee (B320).
RUEN URAI [MAP 5/H4] The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd | 0 2266 8268 | ruen-urai.com | Noon-11pm Located in a beautifully restored 100-year old Thai golden teakwood house decorated with fine antiques and elegant silk-covered furnishings, Ruen Urai (meaning ‘the House of Gold’) at the Rose Hotel off Surawongse Road offers a unique take on traditional Thai cooking styles, giving them a contemporary lift. This is why the menu – which is refreshed annually and was recently bolstered by seven new dishes inspired by zesty rural cuisine – includes a number of non-Thai staplessuch as scallops, salmon, tuna, snowfish, soft-shell crab and lamb. The new dishes on the menu are mainly dry cooked having been marinated in roasted herbs and spices. No insipid sloppy wet sauces here but plenty of robust flavours. Of particular note is roasted curry of pork spare ribs (B300) and a dish of wild boar sautéed in a thick curry sauce (B350). Both are hearty offerings – Thai winter comfort food if you like – and perfectly demonstrate the four cardinal taste characteristics of rural Thai cuisine – a balance of sweet, salty, bitter and sour.
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James Suckling Visits Bangkok BY LAURENCE CIVIL
Hong Kong-based James Suckling is one of the world’s foremost wine critics. The Los Angeles-born CEO of JamesSuckling.com and Wine Editor for Asia Tatler was recently in Bangkok and says he sees Thailand as one of the most exciting premium wine markets in Asia.
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It’s not widely known,” says Suckling, “But Thailand has many more consumers of fine wines than, say, China. I define premium wine consumers as those who regularly buy wines that cost above US$20 or 650 Baht a bottle, and when I came to Bangkok in May 2014 to meet top importers and assess the wine business here, what surprised me was the dynamism of the market. Despite high levels of tax, it has a much larger segment for premium wines than China. In fact, the Chinese market is overrated. Mainland China has only 100,000 buyers of premium wines compared to 300,000 in Hong Kong and
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600,000 in Thailand, a figure that takes into account sales to high-end tourists.” Having realised the potential of the Thai market, Suckling made the decision to bring Great Wines of Italy, Asia’s largest premium wine tasting extravaganza, to the Kingdom. The event, held last month at the Grand Hyatt Erawan, showcased more than 120 Italian wines that Suckling rates at 90+ points or more. “The wines we pour at all our events have to be top quality, which is why I set the entry level at 90 points or more as rated by myself. Below this I don’t think the wines bangkok101.com
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are worth drinking today. One third of premium wine sales in Thailand are Italian. Here, for example, Prosecco is particularly popular with annual sales of 500,000 bottles. Champagne sales are just 20,000 bottles, mainly purchased for year-end festivities,” Suckling explains. A further testament to the growing popularity of fine wines here is that Thai traffic to Suckling’s website ranks fourth behind Hong Kong, London and New York. Hence the wine guru’s introduction of a Thai language newsletter, which already has over 10,000 readers. “All the indications that I am seeing are good for the future of Thailand’s wine trade,” he says. “In fact, Thailand
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has interesting emerging wine trends. The younger generation, especially single professional women, are becoming more and more interested in wine, which has led to the expansion of wine bars. There isn’t the same culture in Hong Kong.” Interestingly, Suckling says consumers should forget trying to apply the western food and wine pairing approach with Asian food. “It doesn’t work. Simply drink what you enjoy. I am surprised when people say they don’t drink wine because they don’t know enough about it. Just open a bottle and pour! Wine is like art and literature, a pleasure you don’t need to understand in order to enjoy.”
Phuket Restaurant Raises the Wine Bar Congratulations to Aziamendi at Iniala, Phuket! The restaurant recently dominated the Wine List of the Year Thailand 2014 awards, scooping top spot in the Best National List and Best Wine by the Glass categories. The swish eatery also took the award for Best Restaurant/Wine Bar in the Phuket region. According to the international judging panel, Aziamendi’s wine list is, “impressive, well researched and well balanced”. The list, under the expert assemblage of resident sommelier Fabien Ettiene, boasts logically presented bangkok101.com
“pleasingly esoteric selections” of a wide range of wines from around the world. According to Chairman of Judges, Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, “Lists such as Aziamendi’s are shining lights which make customer wine selection in Thailand a simpler task.” “We wanted to create a wine list that focused on every region of the world with over 300 labels,” says Ettiene. “Our aim has been to offer wines that aren’t found everywhere else in Phuket. Tasting menus are a key part of the Aziamendi dining experience and account for 85% of our sales. On page two of the menu each month I select one bubbly, two whites, two reds and one sweet wine and share the stories behind the wines. I choose wines that have impressed me, wines that the customer most likely won’t know and without this introduction mostly likely wouldn’t try.” Wine List of the Year Thailand 2014 also saw Tables Restaurant at Grand Hyatt Erawan pick up awards for Best Cellar and Best Restaurant in Bangkok/ Region. This reflects the hard work of head sommelier Supapong Mekprasart who says that the restaurant no longer has sponsored listings but selects wines that offer quality and value for money. JA N UA RY 2015 | 85
HEMINGWAY’S P88
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NIGHTLIFE DEEP DUB
On January 16, Retox Sessions brings Grammy Award-winning Dubfire to Bangkok’s number-one underground club, Glow (Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086 614 3355). Having risen to fame as one half of the duo Deep Dish, and renowned for his seamless DJ sets and ground-breaking twists, Dubfire promises a night of cutting-edge techno and deep hits. The show starts at 9pm.
CASTLE ROCK
Danish rockers Iceage visit Bangkok for the first time on January 17 at Langsuan Castle, courtesy of Popscene (Kampaengpet 2, opposite JJ Mall). Opening acts The Ginkz and Sangsom Massacre will set the stage for the rising indie band, whose third album, Plowing Into the Field of Love, received rave reviews for its turn of direction and originality. The show starts at 9pm. Tickets are B650, which includes a beer.
CRUISE THE RIVER OF KINGS
Soak up the twilight sun aboard the Banyan Tree Bangkok’s tasteful Apsara cruise. Available every weekend, the cruise takes travellers down the Chao Phraya, passing some of the city’s most famous landmarks as they enjoy an array of Royal Thai canapés and cocktails. As the sun sets, the skies turn a spectacular shade of orange. The cruise costs B1200++ per person and departs at 8pm. Contact the Banyan Tree at 02 679 1200 for more information.
LUCKY NUMBER THREE
Whisgars, Bangkok’s leading whiskey and cigar outlet, has expanded yet again, this time to the Holiday Inn Silom in the city’s vibrant business district (981 Silom Rd). The new digs feature a pool table and VIP lounge, both of which pair with the neighbouring speakeasy-style Belle’s Room and the über-chill -13° Ice Bar. Enjoy an incredible selection of single cask whiskies, cigars, and canapés any night of the week.
FRIDAY NIGHTCAP
Every Friday, when you leave the office, scuttle over to Hemingway’s (Sukhumvit Soi 14, 02 653 3900) and put the finishing touches on your week with extended happy hours from 5pm to 9pm and B100 sangria all night. That’s not all. The end of the week office party includes special beer promotions and giveaways.
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HEMINGWAY’S - Drinking in History -
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hemed on the places that featured large in the great author’s life, and on the food and drink he so dearly loved, Hemingway’s restaurant and bar on Sukhumvit Soi 14 is situated in a beautiful 100-year-old golden teakwood house. Indeed, the venue exudes a palpable old-world colonial charm. Despite its proximity to the busy Asoke junction, it somehow manages to maintain an air of solitude. Yet there’s a contradiction at play, because from the romantic Hideaway Lounge and Marlin Boulevard balcony upstairs to the snug Habana bar and Spanish Garden downstairs, Hemingway’s is constantly bustling and alive with conversation. This is because it is the premier choice for meals and drinks throughout the day and for post-work beers and cocktails. There’s a different drink special each night, from Margarita Monday’s to beers on Wolfpack Wednesdays. And, thankfully, long happy hours still exist here (weekdays from 4pm to 8pm, weekends from 12 noon to 8pm), with the price of a beer or a glass of wine starting at B95. The wine list features old and new world selections ranging from B950-B4900 per bottle. There is also a modest but well considered list of bottled craft beers (B295) and a draft craft beer that rotates monthly. In addition, Hemingway’s offers what is arguably the finest Bloody Mary in town (B260), best enjoyed over the popular 88 | JA N UA RY 2015
Bloody Mary Sunday Brunch (bookings recommended). Ernest Hemingway liked a drink in the same way fish like water and the bar’s Classic Cocktail menu reflects a number of the author’s favourite tipples. Of note is Death in the Afternoon (B240). Named for one of his novels, it is made according to the writer’s original instructions: “Pour one jigger of absinthe into a Champagne glass. Add ice-chilled Champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness. Drink five of these slowly”. Also good is the Classic Mojito (B240). Based on the recipe used at the drink’s place of birth, La Bodeguita del Medio in Havana, Cuba, a bar made famous by Papa himself, it is mixed with a generous measure of white rum, fresh mint leaves, lime wedges and raw sugar, and packs a refreshing sweet and sour punch. A man of big appetites, one can’t help but feel that Hemingway would also have approved of the extensive food menu here. It includes cold and hot ‘small plate’ choices a la tapas (B110-B295), pizzas (B260-B325), and hearty fish, meat and poultry main courses (B320-B880) from a ‘big plate’ listing.
HEMINGWAY’S BAR & RESTAURANT [MAP 3/J10] Sukhumvit Soi 14 (1 minute from BTS Asoke exit 4) 0 2653 3900 | hemingwaysbangkok.com | 11.30am-1am
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Bash
CLUBS BASH [MAP 5/G6] 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (entrance next to the Australian Pub | bashbangkok.com | Midnightvery late Open till “very late”, Bash is brash. The guys who set this place up spliced strands of global clubbing DNA with the usually sleazy after-hours club concept. There are burlesque dancers ranging from midgets and robots on stilts to cross-dressing whacker Pan Pan (the shows bring to mind risqué superclub Manumission at times); the fixtures and furniture are of the very glam sort (gleaming Louis IX furniture, etc); and the DJs are often big names. Head up the stairs lined with misshapen mirrors and you’ll find three floors of fun, two of them taken up by the main room and the mezzanine which overlooks it.
KU DE TA [MAP 5/G6] 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2108 2000 | kudeta.net 6pm-late Ku De Ta set out to add a new dimension to a night out in Bangkok. To some extent, it follows in the footsteps of Bed Supperclub by providing an upscale club experience for the city’s movers and shakers but it has also carved out its own unique aesthetic that is sure to make it one of Bangkok’s top nightlife destination
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Ku De Ta venues. Undoubtedly, the space is the first part of Ku De Ta’s glittering fit-out that catches the eyes. The main club is a vast rectangular area with skyscraper ceilings and a long window running down an entire side, affording an exceptional view of Bangkok lit up at night. Another feature is the lighting set-up – a very snazzy, very modern LED ‘chandelier’ hangs over the dance floor, twinkling a variety of different colours in time with the music.
LEVELS [MAP 3/F8] 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 2308 3246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am Of all the venues of Sukhumvit Soi 11, Levels has benefited the most from the closure earlier this year of Bed Supperclub. Great swathes of that clientele now overflow to the other side of the soi, making Levels one of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok, on any night of the week. At many popular clubs in Bangkok, the crowd quickly finds a familiar groove, attracting one particular kind of revellers that old hands can identify fairly quickly – whether that’s the tourists passing through on the way to the beach or the slightly more clued-up locals returning to a favourite haunt. At Levels, though, it’s much harder to categorise – there’s a welcome mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of Levels’ buzzy atmosphere.
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MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4] President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd mixxdiscotheque.com | B350 | 10pm-late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, as long as things go smoothly, the chanceto party until nearly sunrise.
Q BAR [MAP 3/C4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2252 3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with big name international DJs appearing regularly. There’s a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-tobottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now, there’s more room to dance and more lounge space, especially at QUP, the more downtempo upstairs area. Also, out the
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Long Table back of the venue, through a revolving door from the dance floor, you can find your way into Le Derriere, Q Bar’s very own Parisianstyle absinthe bar that is perfect for chilling out and chasing the green fairy.
BARS WITH A VIEW HEAVEN [MAP 8/K13] 20F Zen @ Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com | MonSun 5.30pm-1am It’s heavily dependent on the weather as the design offers precious little protection but on a warm Bangkok night, when the golden backdrop of its feature bar lights up like a metal sun, it feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital. Crucially, they’ve got the cocktails (all B280-B320) right, using a well-chosen blend of spirits without going overboard and trying to cram every drink with one too many flavours. The Surreal Seduction – slightly cheesey name but we’ll forgive it because it tastes good – combines vodka, apple liqueur, elderflower syrup and pear
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Moon Bar puree. It’s super fruity but apple liqueur is one of the more versatile, underused ingredients in cocktails and it sets off the others in a way that’s refreshing but still carries a kick.
LONG TABLE [MAP 3/H8] 25F 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 0 2302 2557 | longtablebangkok.com 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing that draws Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this impossibly swish restaurant-cumbar. There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – wide-screen city vistas.
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Octave
MOON BAR [MAP 5/K8] 61st F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfectspot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too.
OCTAVE [MAP 3/S10] 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above
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Red Sky while knocking back some of Octave’s punchy, refreshing cocktails. The Thai Mojito (B320) starts things off in a way that’s familiar enough but well-executed, combining the standards of white rum, basil and lime with spicy mango, adding a zingy twist to the established mojito formula. More innovative still is the Bloom Over The Roof (B320), which fuses Red Berry Tea-flavoured vodka with fresh mint leaves and elderflower syrup. It might seem a little flowery but the overall effect is a seriously drinkable concoction that cuts right through the humidity.
RED SKY [MAP 4/F3] 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 centarahotelresorts.com 5pm-1am Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slow-cooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. It’s not cheap, but the daily happy hours (buy one get
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Red Sky one drink on selected wine, beer and cocktails from 5pm-7pm).
THE SPEAKEASY [MAP 4/J6] Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. A long international snack menu stands out for decent portions at reasonable prices; spirits (from B270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B300-B600 a glass, while cocktails (from B 290) include homemade vodka infusions.
WOO BAR [MAP 5/G7] W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok Sun-Wed 9am1am, Thurs-Sat 9am-2am Located on the ground floor of the W Hotel, Woo Bar has all of the flair and emphasis on design that has come to characterise the hotel franchise. It’s
Woo Bar
The Speakeasy chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, spacious enough to find a seat without being echoey and without atmosphere. And, most importantly, the cocktails pass with flying colours, some inventive signature drinks rubbing shoulders with well-executed standard tipples. The Bliss (B325), which comes from the bartenders at W Hotel in New York, combines Ciroc vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, mint and fresh ginger. You might struggle to stop at just one.
BARS APOTEKA [MAP 3/E8] 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight As you may have guessed, the name is based on an outdated word for pharmacist and the place is meant to emulate a 19th century apothecary. Unsurprisingly, it has an old-school feel and an awesome live up of live music. There are high ceilings, red brick walls and Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde being projected onto the wall. Indoor seating is a mix of tall tables with studded chairs, and long tables for larger groups along the main wall. Large cases filled with vintagecoloured bottles of medicine flank the bar. The outdoor seating is mellow – a wooden patio with some cozy furniture that could be a nice place to curl up on a date or meet some friends for a smoke
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Face Bar and a beer. Drink selection includes a nice selection of beer (the Framboise Ale at B250 is delightful), Heineken for just B135, and custom cocktails cost you B230. Keep your eyes peeled for the whisky and cigar lounge: a room hidden off to the side of the staircase. With muted green brocade on the walls, low leather couches, and Johnnie Walker in glass cases, this space is available for private parties or just chill sessions.
FACE BAR [MAP 3/S7] 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 0 2713 6048 | facebars. com | 11.30am-1am Jim Thompson, move over. Face’s visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim’s former mansion, with Ayutthaya-style buildings and thriving flora, it’s just bigger and bolder. The Face Bar is a dimly-lit place that summons deluxe drinkers with its cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails. Though often empty, the big drink list will stop your body clock pretty fast. The two restaurants – Hazara serving Northern Indian and Lan Na Thai serving traditional Thai – are full of fab allAsian decor; they’re romantic and inviting, but you might be let down by the tiny portions, and the flamboyant prices.
SPASSO [MAP 8/L13] Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajadamri Rd | 0 2254 1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-2.30am
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Spasso There’s no shortage of hotel bars in Bangkok but Spasso, on the ground floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan has been around for 21 years and remains a favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it presents as a sedate Italian restaurant but after hours, after it transforms into a club and cocktail bar, it really hits its stride, revelling in its energetic, uninhibited atmosphere. The layout is unconventional – an open-plan foyer and dining area narrows into a dancefloor, flanked by two horseshoe-shaped bars. It has the effect of funnelling all the action between the bars and on to the dancefloor. Spasso is not so much for Bangkok scenesters – its selling point is that it’s slightly wild and the live band does its best to whip partygoers into even higher spirits.
VIVA AVIV [MAP 5/C2] River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 0 2639 6305 vivaaviv. com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade, inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic
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Viva Aviv look, the bar was initially looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek. Their ‘Rough Cut’ Signatures, many are pleasingly heavy on the rum, are among the real highlights.
WATER LIBRARY@GRASS [MAP 3/R6] Grass Thong Lor, 264/1 Thong Lor Soi 12 0 2714 9292 | Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am Aside from its upmarket, inventive set menu dining on the first floor restaurant, The Water Library also has three lounge and wine bar areas downstairs with funky food, cocktails and live music at not audacious prices. A set menu of three cocktails paired with tapas bites at B790 is a pleasant surprise to many, and their wine list starts at a mere B900 a bottle. Water Library is one-to-watch on the regional drinking and dining scene. The very talented mixologist Mirko Gardelliano was Germany’s Cocktail Champion in 2003, while the wine bar chef Urs Lustenberger worked with Michelin three star chef Juan Amador.
WTF [MAP 3/Q6] 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 0 2626 6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am This tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. Expect live gigs, art exhibitions upstairs and a mix of hipsters, journos and scenesters. JA N UA RY 2015 | 93
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SKIN ON SKIN: A REVOLUTIONARY JIGSAW By By Molly Lanscombe Gaby Doman
Ex
ver thought xxxxx xxxxxx your wardrobe xxxxx would be much better if there were a wholexxx lot less seams and stitches involved? Perhaps not but, nonetheless, xxx Skin on Skin has created an entire collection of un-sewn xxx clothes. Launched recently at Koi Art Gallery, I suspect that solving a fashion problem wasn’t at the root of the collection, but rather AVAILABLE AT: that explores new territory and doubles creating a fashion statement as an art project. As you xxx might expect from a collection with no threads involved, fabrics xxx such as your typical cottons and silks are out. Instead, plastic with small xxx sparkling stones is in. Designer Monrissa Leenutaphong has painstakingly pieced together plastic sheets using interlocking tabs xxxweb in a way that is surprisingly comfortable, if not entirely practical. The idea is such an innovative one that Leenutaphong has registered it as an invention with the Department of Intellectual Property. The collection consists of cropped vests, flippy A-line skirts, hot pants, asymmetric tops, a bow-tie jacket, collar, bangle, anklet and bag. The rigidity, the perceived simplicity and the shiny finish of the pieces bring to mind dolls clothing. Unsurprisingly, practicality wasn’t key for this translucent collection – yes, your bra and knickers will be on display unless you choose some complimenting leggings or simple crop tops to wear underneath. Instead, it’s the ingenuity of the pieces, and the exploration of a new way to design clothing. It will take a brave soul indeed to rock these glossy, see-through pieces on a red carpet in Bangkok but, you can bet if you do, they’ll garner some serious respect from the city’s more avante garde dressers. If you have a little Commes de Garcon, Gareth Pugh or Jean Paul Gaultier in your wardrobe, you may just love Skin on Skin’s fetish, artinspired fashion takedown. If not, you may find a use for the garments next monsoon season. Find the collection at Cafe At Ease, Soi Kasemson 2, Rama I Rd, Facebook.com/SkinOnSkinByMonrissa
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SHOPPING
unique boutique
Abode E
stablished in 2007 by Paveena and Craig McLean, the multi-level Abode outlet in Sathorn Soi 12 offers an extensive range of classic and contemporary furniture and attractive home accessories, including baskets, floor mats, mirrors, lamps, vases, picture frames, candle holders, and much more. Here the theme is on natural home furnishings and wood predominates. Hard woods, including teak and mahogany, are the mainstay of the furniture items, some of which are reconditioned pieces salvaged from old houses. Original designs are made from wood sourced from sustainable teak plantations that have been certified by Trees4Trees™ and the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), two NGOs that promote sustainable forestry. The simple yet sophisticated products are fashioned by Javanese craftsmen based on European designs to create an East-meets-West beauty. Special care is taken to highlight distinctive patterns and natural textures. Using the French polishing technique, the final application of a toxin-free lacquer derived from tree sap not only protects the wood but also gives it a lustrous, rich finish. A knowledgeable team of staff welcome customer inquiries and are ready with suggestions and helpful tips to guide buyers. Paveena and Craig also want their patrons to feel relaxed, ‘as if they are at home while shopping’, so unlike other furniture showrooms, at Abode customers are encouraged to try out pieces. Here you can take your ease 96 | JA N UA RY 2015
on sofas and chairs and even have a lie-down on the bed you might be thinking of buying. The shop also offers impressive after-sales maintenance and repair services, hence the longevity of a piece purchased from Abode.
ABODE HANDCRAFTED LIVING [MAP 5/G4] 142/140-41 Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 2040 abodebangkok.com | Tue-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun by appointment
bangkok101.com
spotlight tailor
SHOPPING
Pinky Tailor E
stablished by Mr. Pinky and his wife Nid in 1980, the eponymously named tailoring business has grown from a single story shophouse to two 3-story outlets packed with a staggering array of highquality fabrics. Pinky Tailor caters to both ladies and gents and offers exceptional tailoring for quality trousers, suits, tuxedos, uniforms, overcoats, skirts and dresses. A specialty are shirts, and as the business points out on its website, “From formal dress shirts and business wear through to high fashion and casual, the shirt is the ideal way to express personality, no matter what the occasion.” In recent years Mr. Pinky’s son, Win, who is also an experienced tailor, has added an accessories service producing custom-made bow ties, neck ties, lapel pins, silk knots, pocket squares, and cummerbunds. Win is also responsible for keeping abreast of new designs and fashion trends and bringing in new fabrics. These he sources from countries all over the world including Japan, India, England and Turkey, but particularly from Italy. What results from these exceptional raw materials are beautiful garments made by the 50 experienced craftsmen and women employed at the Pinky workshop. “Since our workshop is onsite, we are able to control the quality of each and every product that we make. It also means we are fast… for example, we can arrange a first jacket fitting for customer within one or two hours of the bangkok101.com
garment being measured,” explains Mr Pinky. “We are able to make a bespoke suit within 3-4 days if necessary.” It take years of training to be able to measure a person for a garment and to cut cloth. As Mr Pinky points out, “Our way of taking measurements takes into account necessary margins. It is this experience, the quality of cloth and our workmanship that customers pay for. And when they are happy with their garments, they become our best advertisers. Much of our new business comes by word-ofmouth. Our clients become friends even to the point where we are making clothes for fourth generation customers.” When you visit Pinky you will be consulted either by the man himself or his son. Both are adept at helping clients select fabrics and choose designs, and both are skilled in the arts of taking measurements and overseeing fittings. “Once a Pinky customer, always a Pinky customer – we will keep your measurements on record, making it easy for you to order from overseas and to have any required alterations done. Fabrics can be viewed via our website, on Instagram, and through our Facebook page. We’ll even cut cloth samples and send them to you so you can feel the texture,” says Win.
PINKY TAILOR
[MAP 4/L5]
888/40, Ploenchit Rd (Mahatun Plaza) | 0 2253 9328 pinkytailor.com
JA N UA RY 2015 | 97
SHOPPING
listings
July Tailor
TAILOR DULY [MAP 3/Q10] 55/2 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2672 2891 | 10am7pm daily | laladuly.co.th Duly recently opened a new boutique at the 2nd floor, Royal Wing of the Siam Kempinski Hotel behind Siam Square. The original stand-alone shop on Sukhumvit Road was also renovated in 2011 to reflect Duly’s pre-eminent position as Bangkok’s leading shirt maker. The real draw here is the made-to-measure service that allows customers to create their own perfect shirt with no limits. Shirt patterns can be contoured to fit, collars picked from 22 different style and cuffs from 10. The store stocks over 30 types of button and also offers a monogramming service.
JULY TAILOR [MAP 5/K6] 30/6 Saladang Rd | 0 2233 0171 | Mon-Sat 9.30pm-6pm | julytailor.com/en Established by Nui Sae Lui in 1939, today July Tailor is run by his third son, Sompop Louilarpprasert. July Tailor is famous for the tailoring of suits and royal patterns with fine and delicate workmanship. It also prides itself on punctual delivery. This is perhaps why it was selected as a tailor to the Thai royal family. The store also enjoys a fine reputation among high-level local and international government officials, politicians and businessmen. Use of fine cloths, lining materials and accessories
Duly 98 | JA N UA RY 2015
Lucky Angel imported from Italy ensures comfort while hand stitching ensures excellent workmanship and fit and the unique bespoke look.
LUCKY ANGEL [MAP 4/M5] 26-26/4 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2650 7577 | MonSat 10am-10pm, Sun 10am-8pm Boyce, the principal at Lucky Angel, does a fine job of explaining fabrics, cuts, timetable and prices to customers. He and his wife go out of their way to help clients select the best materials for their needs. An 18-year veteran of the business, he takes around 30 measurements when sizing you up for a suit and will constantly ask questions regarding your preferences as he goes about his work. Only opened 3 years ago, the shop already has a loyal clientele and prides itself on its repeat business and comprehensive after-sales service.
MOON RIVER BY VJ [MAP 3/H10] 288 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2229 4457 Mon-Sun 10am-9pm | moonriverbyvj.com Suits ordered at the majority of Bangkok tailors are crafted away from the retail shop, frequently at backstreet workshops handling jobs from several different tailors. What distinguishes Moon River by VJ from its competitors is that the business has its own in-house workshop, enabling it to have better quality control. This also means that the tailors can be present
Moon River by VJ
Narin Couture during fittings, so they really understand the changes that need to be made. The shop, which caters to both men and women, has been providing locals, expats and visitors with bespoke attire since 1981 and carries a large inventory of fabrics and styles suitable for any budget.
NARIN COUTURE [MAP 3/G10] 180 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2251 9237 | Mon-Sat 10.30am-9pm (last fitting at 8pm) | narincouture.com B. Narin of Narin Couture graduated from Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and spent five years working in Paris before returning home to open his own boutique tailoring service. His background is undoubtedly one of the reasons his suits receive high marks for style. He and his master cutters, many of whom have over 30 years of experience, turn out elegant evening gowns and immaculate suits in top quality fabrics. Some of Narin’s creations have even made it onto the silver screen, being worn by movie stars in Hollywood blockbusters.
PERRY’S [MAP 5/K5] 2/1 Silom Rd | 0 2233 9236, 0 2267 0622 | Mon-Sat 9.30am-8pm | perry.tailor@gmail.com Legendary tailor Perry’s has been going strong for four decades. It is run by genial septuagenarian twin brothers Narong and Phonchai, both of whom are known for their ability to measure and cut ‘by the
Perry’s bangkok101.com
listings
Rajawongse eye’. They maintain superb quality through their own workshop, where 30 plus artisans use only imported fabrics – the likes of Ermenegildo Zenga, Loro Piana, Dormeuil and Lanificio from Switzerland, Italy and England. Among their more illustrious clients they count the Duke of Edinburgh, former UN Secretary General Boutros Boutros-Ghali and late Hollywood star Robin Williams. It takes from one to two weeks for Perry’s to make a twopiece suit, which will run to B20000 or more depending on the material selected.
RAJAWONGSE [MAP 3/E10] 130 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2255 3714 | Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm | dress-for-success.com At Rajawongse, a favourite of visiting statesman and ambassadors, it is possible to create your own design from a wide array of fabrics and accessories. Traditional to contemporary, dramatic to exotic, classic to original, you pick your preferred style of garment and fabrics and tailors Jesse and Victor will create it. Says Jesse, “It is our belief that every single customer should be treated like a V.I.P. From formal wear to business suits and sport coats, our motto always holds true: dress like a winner and you’ll be treated like one.”
SODHI [MAP 5/F5] 294/3 Silom Rd | 0 2635 9670 | Mon-Sat 10.30am8.30pm, (Sunday’s by appointment) sodhi.com
SHOPPING
Universal Tailors Sodhi has been making hand-tailored suits and made-to-measure shirts for discerning gents since 1968. According to principle Peter, it is the inside of a suit that distinguishes its quality – the choice of materials in a hand-made garment determines its wear and appearance, while the construction techniques guarantee fit and style. Sodhi places great emphasis on the use of natural fibres; horse hair, camel hair, and pure cottons and wools. These are used to create modern and timeless styles that make the customer “feel elegant and relaxed and that makes him feel good and look good”.
Moonriver by VJ
God made men, we make gentlemen
UNIVERSAL TAILORS [MAP 5/F5] 252/2 Silom Rd | 08 1611 2313 | Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 12pm-6pm | universaltailor.com Run by the father-and-son team of Ronnie and Raj Singh, for over 30 years Universal Tailors have produced beautifully made garments hand-crafted to a perfect fit. They have their own in-house tailors, allowing them to offer a truly bespoke experience. Fabrics range from 100% wool to luxury weaves from Italian mills. Suits are constructed using high-end horse hair interlining and canvassing, pure cotton German shoulder pads, Bemberg linings and horn buttons. Shirt fabrics range from 100% cotton of 60/1 ply to 120/2 ply in twill, oxford and poplin weaves. These are double stitched and come with real mother of pearl buttons.
Complete bespoke experiencenot just made to measure
Moonriver by VJ Sukhumvit Road under Asoke Skytrain station - Exit 2
Sodhi bangkok101.com
Universal Tailors
Bring this ad for 20% off on your first bespoke experience. JA N UA RY 2015 | 99
WELLN ESS
treatment
Devarana Spa
DEVARANA SPA [MAP 5/L5] Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 0 2636 3596 | devaranaspa.com | $$$
Devarana offers a variety of pampering treatments using a combination of East meets West aromatherapy and massage. Delicate massage oils are organically developed and blended using high quality natural ingredients to enhance relaxation and feelings of well-being. The Devarana Signature Massage (B3200++/1 hr 30 mins; B3900++/2 hrs) is a unique therapy that focuses on muscle relief and balancing the body’s energy pathways through a combination of Ayurvedic, Shiatsu and Swedish massage. The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience (B5000++/2 hrs 30 mins) is also highly recommended. It features a Devarana body scrub and massage and ends with a restorative soak in a bath infused with fresh pink lotus and champaca petals.
CENVAREE SPA [MAP 4/F7] Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 25F Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd 0 2769 1234 | spacenvaree.com | $$$$
For anyone who has had the pleasure of visiting a high-end spa in Thailand,
Cenvaree Spa 10 0 | JA N UA RY 2015
Grande Spa Cenvaree’s interior will be familiar enough, furnished in dark teak wood and perfumed with hints of jasmine and sandalwood. The selection here is vast. Try the evocatively named Salt Pot Muscles Melter (B2800 for 90 mins), designed to flush all traces of tension from a tired frame. The Thai Harmony Four Hands Massage (B3000 for 90 mins) involves two expert Thai therapists working in unison to deliver a feeling of intense relaxation. Another alternative is the Shirobhyanga, or Indian Head Massage (B1200 for 60 mins). Often during treatments, after the back and legs and have been kneaded into putty, it’s the light finish on the neck and scalp that is most effective. Here, you have the opportunity to extend that for an entire hour.
GRANDE SPA [MAP 3/H10] Sheraton Grande, Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2649 8121| sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am-10pm | $$$$
The traditional trimmings of the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit are echoed throughout the decor at its signature spa, with teakwood furnishings and the soft scent of jasmine flowers. It has the effect
Sanctuary Wellness and Spa of immediately relaxing anyone showing up for a treatment. Even before heading into the low-lit rooms, the soothing wave has already taken hold. Of course, the traditional Thai massage (B3180 for 90 minutes) takes it to the next level, with the focus initially on the lower back and then the shoulders, before the deep, kneading strokes spread to the legs and arms. It’s remarkable how effectively tension can be worked out from the thighs and calves – the longer the muscle, the more energising treatment to these areas can be.
SANCTUARY WELLNESS AND SPA [MAP 3/K11]
Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit 18 | 0 261 7100 rembrandtbkk.com | open daily 9am-10pm $$$
Sanctuary Wellness and Spa at Rembrandt Hotel has several pampering therapies, one of which is a great Traditional Thai Massage (B900/60 min, B1200/90 min) that stretches the muscles and uses pressure to stimulate the energy meridians of the body. It is one of several therapies at the spa designed to alleviate physical tiredness, aches and pains. Many others provide the sense of relaxation and peace that spa-goers look for. The Jet Lag Massage (B2500/90 min) helps to rebalance your body after a long flight and includes a foot mask to soothe swollen legs and feet, and an eye mask to rejuvenate tired skin around the eyes. Other recommendations are the Sport Massage (B1500/60 min, B2000/90 min), the Thai Herbal Compress (B1900/90 min), and the Hot Stone Massage (B2500/90 min). SPA COSTS $ :: under B600 $$ :: B600-B1000 $$$ :: B1000-B2000 $$$$ :: B2000+
bangkok101.com
treatment
WELLN ESS
Banyan Tree Spa - Sets The Bar High -
B
anyan Tree Spa has long occupied a space on the top rung of the list of Bangkok’s most luxurious spas and with good reason. Located within one of the city’s leading hotels, the spa offers a wide range of Asian-inspired treatments that celebrates the human touch and the use of natural herbs and spices. The Classic Rejuvenation packages (B5500 for 90 minutes) are good for both ladies and gentlemen, and use a variety of fresh body scrubs and massages to deliver different benefits – cleansing the skin, boosting energy and soothing tense muscles. Sticking to the massages alone, there are options from all over the world. Of course, the traditional Thai massage will be familiar to regular spa-goers but there are also other massages with Hawaiian and Swedish influence, as well as Balinese, which is our choice. There’s a choice between the 60-minute (B3500) and 90-minute (B4700) massages, in which the staff – as usual, deceptively strong – use their thumbs and palms in long, firm strokes, using Spirit Oil for warming and circulation benefits. The technique really is spectacular, creating a sensation in the muscles that is both warm and soothingly cool at once. Instead of simply kneading the muscles to bangkok101.com
work out tension, the therapist builds up a circular rhythm that makes it feel like stress is simply flowing out of the body. It’s an unforgettable massage that leaves one feeling relaxed yet energised at the same time.
BANYAN TREE SPA BANGKOK
[MAP 5/L8]
21F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathon Rd | 0 2679 1052 banyantreespa.com | 9am-10pm
JA N UA RY 2015 | 101
MAKING MERIT
Making for
a Splash Charity
Unique Event Raises Over a Million Baht for Worthy Causes
I
n early November last year, the Areca Lodge in Pattaya hosted the third annual Ladyboy Water Volleyball Competition, a charity event supported by the Pattaya Rotary Club and believed to be the only tournament of its kind in the world. The brainchild of Tony Sales, a man who is keen to show ladyboys (transgenders/transsexuals) in a positive light, the 2014 tournament generated donations of over 1.4 million Baht. Less tournament expenses and a deduction set aside towards the staging of the 2015
102 | JA N UA RY 2015
event at the end of this year, in practical terms the initiative raised just over a million Baht for local charities, including main beneficiaries Camillian Home and the Heartt 2000 Foundation. The St. Camillus Foundation’s Camillian Home is a registered non-profit children’s charity operating in the Latkrabang area of Bangkok. It was founded by Father Giovanni Contrain, an Italian priest who has worked extensively with Thailand’s poor and disadvantaged for almost 30 years. The home provides a refuge for bangkok101.com
MAKING MERIT
orphaned and abandoned children living with disabilities and serious illnesses, including HIV/AIDS. Children at the home are brought up in an atmosphere of love and are taught to overcome their disabilities so that they can be valuable members of society. The home receives very little government support and instead survives on generous donations from individuals, corporations and initiatives such as the Ladyboy Water Volleyball Competition. The Heartt 2000 Foundation has also been working for a number of years to support those suffering from HIV/ AIDS. Established in Pattaya in 1998 by French national Dr Philippe Seur, to date Heartt 2000 has assisted many thousands of patients by raising funds through private and corporate donations to purchase anti-retro-viral drugs that combat the disease. In line with Dr Philippe’s mission, in addition to providing free medical care, the foundation’s volunteer doctors and supporters also fight to dispel the social stigma, ongoing discrimination, ignorance and nonchalance that surrounds HIV/AIDS. In spite of a rainy November day, more than 350 people turned up for the third Ladyboy Water Volleyball charity tournament, which featured teams from eight bars: Temptations and Check-In from Bangkok, and Baby Boom, Kings Bar, La Bamba Bar, Sensations, bangkok101.com
Stringfellows and TJ’s from Pattaya. An exciting day of watery fun ended with a close-fought final match victory for Sensations over Baby Boom. Following the sporting action, the indomitable competitors swapped swimming costumes for glamorous stage outfits to become graceful musical entertainers at an event-closing gala dinner. Staging such an occasion involves many people and takes around 6 months of planning. Many aspects can be managed by volunteers as a sub-project of the overall event. If you live in Thailand and would like to contribute your time and skills, the organizers are always on the lookout for volunteers willing to help with; artwork and design – posters, tickets, flyers, score cards, banners, coupons and certificates; logistics management – equipment check and set-up; refereeing (4 referees required for the tournament); admin and accounting; ticketing; team liaison; event photography; and the prize raffle – securing prizes such as hotel/restaurant vouchers, perfumes, alcohol, jewellery and so on. The date for the 2015 Ladyboy Water Volleyball Competition will be posted in February/March on the lbwvb.com website, where contact information for the organizers can also be had. JA N UA RY 2015 | 103
MAP 1 Greater Bangkok A
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SIGHTSEEING a Bang Pa-In Summer Palace b The Khao Khiao Open Zoo c The Si Racha Tiger Farm d Pattaya Shooting Park e Nong Nooch Tropical Botanical Garden f Mimosa Pattaya g Kanchanaburi War Cemetery h Bridge over the river Kwai i Erawan National Park j Sai Yok National Park k Ancient Siam l Bueng Chawak Aquarium
TEMPLES 1 Wat Yai Chai Mong Khon 2 Wat Phra Sri Sanphet 3 Wat Mahathat 4 Wat Phuttai Sawan HISTORICAL RUINS 1 Ayutthaya Historical Park 2 Phra Narai Ratchaniwet MARKETS 1 Amphrawa Floating Market 2 Walking Street Pattaya 3 Sam Chuk 100 Years Market
MUSEUMS 1 Teddy Bear Museum 2 The Ripley's believe It or Not Odditorium 3 Art in Paradise 4 Thai Human Imagery Museum 5 Museum of Chong Khaokad ENTERTAINMENT 1 Scuba Dawgs Pattaya 2 Alcazar Cabaret 3 Pattaya Water Park
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We*Do Gallery RMA
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NIGHTLIFE 4 Long Table 5 Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Octave 19 WTF 17 Alchemist 18 The ChindAsia
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EMBASSIES IN India IR Iran LK Sri Lanka PH Philippines QA Qatar UA Ukraine NO Norway NZ New Zealand BG Bulgaria
JA N UA RY 2015 | 107
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108 | JA N UA RY 2015
HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 Siam Kempinski 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate 6 Novotel Platinum 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan 8 The Four Seasons 9 The St. Regis 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Swissôtel Nai Lert Park 13 Conrad Bangkok 14 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 15 Hotel Muse 16 Okura Prestige 17 Centara Watergate Pavillion 18 Berkeley Hotel Bangkok
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M Y B A N G KO K
Chawadee Nualkhair
Born in Pittsburgh and based in Bangkok, Chawadee “Chow” Nualkhair is an authority on street food in Thailand. Her first book, Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls, was an indispensable guide to the how, where, and why of street eating in the Big Mango. Her second book, Thailand’s Best Street Food, explores street-side dining from the cool North to the sultr y South and is on shelves now. What inspired you to write about street food in the first place? I think street food is to Bangkok what sports teams are to, say, Pittsburgh or Liverpool. To be a real Bangkokian, you need to know enough about street food vendors to be able to argue about them. This book was my attempt to get into the local culture, because I wanted to eat where the locals ate but was really intimidated by the street food scene. It took me a long time to get into it. Your new book highlights the best street food in the Kingdom. What are some of the regional differences in street food and culture? All the regions have different cultural influences, and the street food reflects that. In the North, which was ruled by Burma for 200 years, there is of course a lot of Burmese influence as well as Chinese influence. There are also few restaurants open at night, because Northerners prefer to eat at home. Eating out is for tourists. In addition, Northerners are cheap. I feel like I can say that because both my mum and dad are Northerners! In Isaan, there are Lao and Vietnamese influences, and a lot of the popular street foods – som tum, kai kata, guay jab yuan – come from those places. There people like to go out and enjoy themselves In the South, particularly Phuket, you will find Hokkien Chinese influences, so there are dishes you won’t see anywhere else in the Kingdom. 112 | JA N UA RY 2015
Do you think the public opinion of street food has changed in recent years? If so, how? I think Thais are now more willing to accept that tourists are very interested in trying out street food. It is a legitimate interest for them. When I wrote my first book, a lot of Thais were skeptical about an English-language street food guide and asked me why tourists would eat at these places when there were airconditioned restaurants all over the city. No one asks that anymore. What’s your single favourite Thai dish, and where do you go to find it in Bangkok? Right now, it’s absolutely yen ta fo. I don’t understand how people don’t like it. They must be going to the wrong places. I like mine at either Tang Meng Noodle near the entrance to Sukhumvit Soi 49, or at Guaythiew Pik Gai Sai Nampung in the soi between Sukhumvit 18 and 20. Does eating in any other city in the world compare to eating in Bangkok? There are lots of places with great street food scenes. I'm thinking of cities such as Taipei, Kuala Lumpur and Fukuoka. However, I believe Bangkok’s street food is the most varied. I encounter a new street food nearly every month. And the range keeps on expanding with adaptations on existing dishes such as ramen, or new creations entirely, like tom yum egg custard.
Where do you take visitors for a quintessential Bangkok experience? For most people, Bangkok means the riverside, so I usually take visitors to Samsara Cafe & Meal, even though the food probably isn’t what most visitors have in mind when they think of Thai food. I also like to take people to Jay Fai for the drunken noodles and crabmeat omelet, and Raan Pen for the stir-fried crab in curry sauce. Oh, and Raan Porn Lamai in Chinatown for the guaythiew lard na, which comes on big hot plates that give the noodles a nice smoky char. What would you like to change about Bangkok? Nothing. Why do people want Bangkok to be what it’s not, like a Singapore or a Kuala Lumpur? What’s special about it is its spontaneity and unpredictability. We go through periodic bouts of cleaning up the sidewalks and shutting clubs down at midnight and whatever, trying to force Bangkok to be some other, more boring place. I have a high school friend with a tattoo on his arm. It’s of a bowling ball with a lightning bolt through it. He’s been an investment banker for a while now and wants to go through the painful process of erasing the tattoo. The thing is, he spent a large chunk of his life being the funny guy with a bowling ball tattoo. Why deny who you are? Bangkok is not an investment banker, like Singapore. Bangkok should keep its bowling ball tattoo. bangkok101.com