bangkok 101
+
march 2014 100 baht
LOST IN PARADISE | CITY PULSE
Sra Bua | ART
Finding peace in change | SHOPPING It’s
happened to be a closet
/SOI11NIGHTLIFE /LEVELSCLUB /QBARBANGKOK /BASHBANGKOK /WAXBANGKOK /VCLUBBANGKOK /LEVELSLATE
Lost in Paradise L E K K I AT S I R I K A J O R N
march 2014
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LOOKS AT LIFE ON THE FRINGE BETWEEN CITY AND COUNTRY
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publisher’s letter
I
t’s always exciting to see new places opening up in Bangkok and this month we went down to the newly opened Groove next to CentralWorld, where we ate at 1881 – a spin-off from the wildly successful Water Library group – and also dropped in for a few glasses of sake at Wabi Sabi. We’ll definitely be back to Groove at some stage and it will be interesting to see what shape it takes as it builds up a regular clientele. We also went to Blue Elephant, Taihei, Sra Bua, 57th Street and Kuppadeli, and also chatted with Jeremy Tourret, the new executive chef at Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, home to L’Appart, one of our favourites. In Bangkok, we’ve been checking out the most exciting times to be had while airborne and touching base with some of the city’s emerging fashion designers. On the travel front, we headed deep into the jungles of Sumatra to meet the local tribe of cheeky orangutans. We also paid a very relaxing visit to Koh Kradan, which, although, not steeped in luxury, is one of the region’s most pristine islands. Definitely worth considering next time you feel like hitting the beach. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks is all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talisman-media.com.
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What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
b a ngkok 101 Par t n e r s
bangkok101.com
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Contributors
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat editor
Tom Sturrock group editor
Joe Cummings editorial assistant
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, Dr Tom Vitayakul has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer joe cummings was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
Food and travel writer howard richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ , the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.
Pawika Jansamakao art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Watcharee Sadubsoi
strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Dave Stamboulis, Keith Mundy contributing photographers
Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director business development
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon
partnership development manager
Willem Deenik British-born writer-artist steven pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.
AVAILABLE AT:
bangkok101.com
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Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, korakot (nym) punlopruksa believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Very Thai author philip cornwel-smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.
projects director
Wasin Banjerdtanakul circulation
Pradchya Kanmanee published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd Bangkok 10330 T 02-252-3900 | F 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2013. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
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CONTENTS 44
38
14
50
city pulse
a r t & c u lt u r e
8 metro beat
46 exhibition highlights
shopping 96 new collection:
12 hot plates: sra bua
50 interview:
it’s happened to be a closet
14 out and about:
finding peace in change
98 jj gem:
up and away
53 cheat notes
the sleeveless garden
18 best of bangkok:
54 photo feature:
99 unique boutique:
fashion fallout
lost in paradise
classic movie posters
s n a p s h ot s
food & drink
wellness
22 tom’s two satang
60 food & drink news
100 spa reviews:
24 very thai
62 meal deals
imperial spa, shambhala
25 chronicle of thailand
63 restaurant reviews:
26 joe’s bangkok
taihei, kuppadeli, 57th
reference
28 bizarre thailand
street, blue elephant,
102 getting there
30 sightseeing listings
1881 by water library
104 maps
72 in the kitchen:
112 my bangkok:
t r av e l
jeremy tourret
manit sriwanichpoom
34 up country now
73 eat like nym
37 hotel review:
74 restaurant listings
63
112
grand hyatt erawan 38 up country escape:
nightlife
explore koh kradan
84 nightlife news
42 over the border:
86 review: wabi sabi
meeting the locals
88 nightlife listings
bangkok 101
march 2014 100 baht
LOST IN PARADISE | CITY PULSE
Sra Bua | ART
Finding peace in change | ShoPPIng It’s
on the cover Lek Kiatsirikajorn presents portraits of those left behind in Bangkok’s developing outer reaches. Check out p54.
happened to be a closet
Lost in Paradise L E K K I AT S I R I K A J O R N
march 2014
CAPTURES LIVES ON THE FRINGE BETWEEN CITY AND COUNTRY
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CW
The chic design and modern layout at Chili Hip restaurant and Walk bar create an almost surreal ambiance, Enhanced by an innovative cocktail and an Asian Menu. Enjoy your dining on the rooftop at Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok as you take in stunning views of the city in one of Bangkok’s most elite nightlife destinations
T: +66 (0) 2 625 1234 E: cwb@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com centarahotelsresorts mycentara CENTARA WATERGATE PAVILLION HOTEL BANGKOK
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I
567 Ratchaprarop Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400 Thailand
2/25/14 BE 9:359:43 AM AM 1/9/2557
CITY PU LSE
metro beat
by Howard Richardson
arrive at The Rock Pub (Hollywood Street Building, Phaya Thai Rd, 081-666-4359, therockpub-bangkok.com) on March 5. Self-described as hardcore punk and melodic hardcore, the fivepiece group will play stuff from a catalogue of albums including Ignorance Never Dies, The Kids We Used To Be and The Golden Age. Show starts at 8pm. Entry is B800.
ROCK & POP
Celebrating 10 years in entertainment, Tor Saksit plays at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact. co.th) in his Pianoman Concert (007 Notes) on March 23. Special guests include Sin, from Singular; Tor’s “humorous brother” Pop Pongkul; and singer Yaya Ying, described as “really hot and irresistible”. Tickets are B1000-B3000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com) for an early 6.30pm show.
Bruno Mars Bruno Mars, on his Moonshine Jungle Tour, brings the trail to Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact. co.th) on March 20. Following a first album, 2010’s Doo-Wops & Hooligans, dubbed “the year’s finest pop debut” by Rolling Stone magazine, this is Bruno’s debut world tour in a short career that has notched 13 Grammy nominations, over 100 million single sales and more than 1 billion views on YouTube. To hear hits like Just The Way You Are, Grenade and Locked Out Of Heaven, head to Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com) and choose your price, from B2000-B5000. Gates open at 8.30pm for a 9pm show. Nineties and Noughties teen sensation Tata takes her Turn Back Time Concert to Royal Paragon Hall (991 Rama 1 Rd, 02610-8011, siamparagon. co.th) on March 22-23. Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, thaiticketmajor.com) has tickets priced B1500B3000 to hear old hits like Oh Oy and Sexy Naughty Bitchy. On what is officialy dubbed their Farewell Tour, the UK band Your Demise 8 | M A RCH 2014
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Your Demise
Belfast-based four-piece rockers And So I Watch You From Afar (ASIWFA) appear at Mongkol Studio (RCA, 081-991-6541, facebook.com/mongkol.rca.studio) on March 4. Two guitars, bass and drums will clatter through tracks from their three albums, And So I Watch You From Afar, Gangs, and last year’s All Hail Bright Futures, with support from local acts Withyouathome and Aire. Tickets are B800, with advance bookings from 081622-6701. Doors open at 8pm.
And So I Watch You From Afar
CHARITY
Tata
This year’s installment of the 19th Annual Charity Golf Classic, organised by Father Joe Maier’s Human Development Foundation, will play at the Royal Golf & Country Club (69 Moo 7, On Nut Rd, Samut Prakan, 02-738-1010, royalgolfclubs.com) on March 14. If you like to ruin a good walk and want to help a good cause there is time to register until March 10, with an entry fee of B3900 per person. bangkok101.com
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ART
10 Years After Rirkrit Tiravanija curates 10 Years After, the final show celebrating the 10th anniversary season of 100 Tonson Gallery (100 Soi Tonson, 02-684-1527, 100tonsongallery.com), which runs until April 20. Fitting a showcase of artworks that have appeared at the gallery over the last 10 years into a 100sqm space has been solved by arranging items like warehouse storage, all stacked up around the room. The gallery officially opens Thursday to Sunday, 11am-7pm, but you can also wander in and look around if staff are there during the week,
FOOD AND DRINK
John McLaughlin Pioneering jazz-fusion guitarist John McLaughlin brings hot licks and an Indian vibe to M Theatre (2884/2 New Petchaburi Rd, 02-319-7641) on March 18. After stints in bands led by legends Miles Davis and drummer Tony Williams, McLaughlin launched his own Mahavishnu Orchestra in the early 1970s. His bangkok101.com
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which is often. See 100tonsongallery.com or facebook. com/100TonsonGallery for more details. British photographer Rado Klose hangs his collection The Enigma of Order on the walls of Eat Me (1/6 Piphat Soi 2, off Soi Convent, 02-238-0931, eatmerestaurant.com) until March 30. The works explore the man-made environment “to fuse external experience with states of mind”. Klose “suggests themes of religion, work, death and companionship”.
latest band The 4th Dimension includes Indian drummer Ranjit Barot, bassist Etienne M’Bappe and keyboardist/drummer Gary Husband. Jeff Beck rates McLaughlin “the best guitarist alive”, while Chick Corea states that “what John McLaughlin did with the electric guitar set the world on its ear”. Tickets are B1000B5000. There’s also a John McLaughlin Guitar Clinic at the same venue at 7pm on March 17, priced B1500. All tickets are available from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor. com). Japanese-Brazilian singer Lisa Ono brings her bossa nova grooves to the Bangkok Jazz Collective at Pavalai Royal Grand Theatre (991 Rama 1 Rd, 02-610-8011, siamparagon. co.th) on March 29. For this concert she is backed by the specially commissioned Strings Orchestra. Also on the bill are Canadian trumpet player Ingrid Jensen, with Thailand’s Denny Euprasert on piano, plus other local performers Soul After Six Lisa Ono and Mellow Motif. M A RCH 2014 | 9
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Disney On Ice
THEATRE This year’s Disney On Ice presents Treasure Trove, which for inspiration draws upon 50 favourite Disney tales. Mickey, Minnie, Goofy and Donald are all on hand as they embark on a treasure hunt looking for a vault containing Disney animated films. The first full-length movie, Snow White and the Seven Dwarves, turns up, along with half a century of others, up to the latest feature, Tangled. The result is a medley of scenes with characters including Peter Pan and Tinker Bell in a battle against Captain Hook; Alice, the Mad Hatter and White Rabbit against the Queen of Hearts from Alice in Wonderland; and Woody, Jessie and Buzz Lightyear from Toy Story. The action
SHOPPING
is at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) from March 27-30. Tickets are B2500 for rinkside box seats, and otherwise B300-B1500. All are available at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). The hit 1980s musical La Cage aux Folles is performed by the New Broadway Company (Bangkok Grand Opera) at the St Regis Bangkok (159 Ratchadamri Rd, 02-252-4707, stregisbangkok.com) on March 28. The musical farce centres on a flamboyant gay couple – the manager and star performer of a Saint-Tropez drag-act nightclub – and the comedy of manners that ensues when the manager’s son brings his fiancée’s conservative parents to meet them.
LECTURES To supplement your viewing of The Wolf of Wall Street, you might get a handle on the financial world at the Global Investment Summit 2014 at the Siam Kempinski Hotel (991/9 Rama 1 Rd, 02-162-9000, kempinski.com) on March 20 and 21. Larry Edelson, described as “one of the world’s leading commodities advisors”, will guide the way. He’ll share his trading and risk management techniques, and give insights and forecasts of the global financial markets in a talk entitled Forecasts and Strategies To Profit From Gold, Currencies, Stocks and Bonds For 2014 And Beyond. Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com) has tickets priced B20,000 for a two-day pass. Now, that’s a good way to make money.
ThaiCraft Fair This month’s ThaiCraft Fair at Jasmine City Building (2 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-204-5885) showcases handmade products from village communities around the country on March 29. The organisation adheres to fair trade practices, and sells a wide range of products, from decor and furnishings to clothing, accessories, gifts and toys. There are often crafting demonstrations and workshops, too. It’s open from 10am to 3pm. Learn more about the group at thaicraft.org. 10 | M A RCH 2014
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TRADE FAIRS The organisers hope for 1000 fashion, textile and leather exhibitors at the Bangkok International Fashion Fair & Bangkok International Leather Fair 2014, collectively titled BIFF & BIL, at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02504-5050, impact.co.th) from March 13-17. As well as fashion shows, there will also be lectures and seminars to attend. See biffandbil.com for background. bangkok101.com
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hot plates
Sra Bua by Howard Richardson
I
n what could be a terrific opportunity for a local chef, Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok has decided not to import a replacement for departed chef Morten Nielsen, but to instead go homegrown. Henrik Yde-Andersen, owner of Sra Bua’s mother restaurant, Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin, was in Bangkok recently overseeing menu development and will continue to visit every two months. Judging by our latest meal here, there are two obvious changes to the food. The flavours are more intensely Thai than I’ve had on any previous visit, and the catwalk of visually stunning creations has been replaced by still interesting but less complex presentation. There are still touches of modern technique and presentation on every dish. On the 10-course set menu (B2700), which could take a leisurely four hours to consume, the starters come in the form of Nibbles and Street Food, now served in the new lounge area, which in effect splits the restaurant into two halves. The street food ranges from a bland miang kham cornette – too chunky for its filling of pomelo salad – to a spicy and fun tuna on bone, in which the meat delivers sizzling hits of chilli and lime zest. One of the mains, tom yam with foamy galangal and baby lobster, is served in two bowls, one of hot broth, the other with cold tom yam ingredients doctored into galangal foam, kaffir lime snow and lemongrass meringue. The cold elements veer toward sweet, combining in each spoonful with the salty spice of the broth. In the marinated cod with beetroot and green curry pearls, the curry sauce comes as cold beads formed with the aid of liquid nitrogen. I’ve heard objections to this technique, but for me icy-cold curry works very well. The earthy beetroot plays a good substitute for the Thai eggplant used in the traditional recipe, while the basil leaves are fresh and clean-green tasting, reminiscent of eating pea shoots. The pairing of Willm Gewürztraminer, Alsace 2011 matches well with the curry spices and strong doses of coconut milk, and would drink well by the bottle with most of these dishes if you don’t fancy the full tasting option. Also on the menu is a lovely version of krapow in the dish Kiin Kiin egg with wild mushrooms and holy basil, a rich creation using poached egg yolk and egg foam served in an egg shell. It’s buttery, spicy, strong in garlic, and creamy rich, and mimics the simple raan aharn krapow, which is often eaten with a fried egg. It’s not revealing any secrets to say that Sra Bua bringing modern Thai cuisine to Bangkok has been a hard sell. Will flavours that are much closer to what you’d find elsewhere in the city help change perceptions?
sra bua
[MAP 8/k12]
Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama I Rd | 02-162-9000 kempinskibangkok.com | noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight
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up and away For a new perspective on the capital, we explore some of Bangkok’s snazziest aeronautic attractions. If nothing else, it’s a great way to avoid the traffic jams.
S
o you’ve bombed the depths of Klong Toey and Chinatown in a tuk-tuk, and you’ve skimmed the city’s rivers and canals by longtail boat. Think you’ve seen it all when it comes to Bangkok transport? Time to look to the skies. While only one of the following options actually puts you in the air, each offers a unique perspective on cloudborne transport. Helicopter Tours Scooting over Bangkok skyscrapers in a chopper, 14 | M A RCH 2014
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BY JOE CUMMINGS
seemingly an activity reserved for visiting billionaires or the Royal Thai Air Force, can be enjoyed by lesser civilians as well through two local outfits. Bangkok Helicopter Services’ City Air Tour charges B8990 baht per person (with a minimum of six) for a 30-minute flight aboard a Rotorcraft BK117 C-2 that takes in aerial views of the Erawan Museum, Ancient City, Chao Phraya Estuary, the maze-like Outer Ring Industrial Bridge, Rama IX Bridge (second longest cable-stayed span in the world when it opened in 1987) and Taksin Bridge. A more extensive air tour comes from Skydance bangkok101.com
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out & about
Helicopters, who charge 77,000 baht for 50 minutes’ flight time aboard a Eurocopter EC135 (capacity up to five passengers) that also takes in the Erawan Museum, Ancient City and the estuary, along with show-stopping views of Grand Palace/Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Arun. Both companies offer ground transport to the Bangkok Heliport from any point within 50 kilometres. Pilots handle tour narration. Flight Simulator Training If you’ve ever fantasised about piloting a large passenger jet, this one’s for you. Strap yourself into the cockpit of a Boeing 737-800 and choose from 24,000 virtual airports to take off from at Flight Experience Bangkok, centrally located off Convent Road. This high-fidelity, fully enclosed cockpit is more advanced than many simulators used by pilots for their bangkok101.com
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initial training, with full-functioning avionics, autopilots and throttles, yoke and trim pedals. The windscreen projects 180-degree external visuals with amazingly photo-realistic terrain, capable of rendering day, night, dawn, dusk, fog, rain and more. Flight Experience’s realistic 737 simulator is licensed for pilot training, and many pilots based in Bangkok do refresher courses here. A licensed, uniformed Thai pilot conducts the video briefing beforehand to impart piloting basics, and accompanies you as co-pilot for the simulated flight. Choices start with the Scenic Flight for 30 minutes (B4550) and extend to the 90-minute Ultimate Experience (B9550). The most popular package is the City Flyer (60 minutes, B6900). The cockpit seats three, and one paid ‘pilot’ is invited to bring along a guest or two to observe. We ‘flew’ in and out of Samui and Chiang Mai airports and the experience felt so real we were concerned M A RCH 2014 | 15
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out & about
about the passengers, even though there weren’t any. The pilot instructors are happy to take command of your camera while you pose in the cockpit, and will even supply a captain’s cap and jacket for beefing up your role. Royal Thai Air Force Museum Founded in 1952 in a hangar west of Don Muang airport to collect, preserve and restore historic aircraft and other aviation equipment used by the Royal Thai Air Force, this museum is open daily, but for groups only, by advance reservation. Putting together a group is well worth the effort for aeronautics buffs. Many of the aircraft on display here are rarely found elsewhere, even outside Thailand, including the first F-5B Freedom Fighter ever built, one of only two surviving Japanese Tachikawa Ki36 trainers, the last surviving Vought O2U Corsair, one of three surviving Curtiss BF2C Goshawks, a Spitfire and several Nieuports and Breguets. Inside the hangar-like building, hung at angles suggesting flight, are several historic Thai aircraft, most notably the two-seat bomber Baribatra, in RTAF service from 1927 to 1940, and the first aircraft designed and built entirely by Thais. Indochina War buffs, particularly those interested in the clandestine American involvement in Laos, may recognise the Cessna O-1 Bird Dog on display. In Laos O-1s were flown by the infamous Ravens, non-uniformed USAF personnel, who used them for forward air control, that is, to scout targets for American fighter-bombers. In Building 2 the focus is on WWII-era aircraft, while 16 | M A RCH 2014
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TAKE TO THE SKIES Skydance Helicopter Tours skydance.aero Tel: 0817-872-700 Bangkok Helicopter Services bangkokhelicopter.co.th Tel: 0854-880-486 Flight Experience flightexperiencethailand.com Tel: 02-237-9895 Royal Thai Air Force Museum Wing 6, Don Muang Open daily 9am to 4pm, reservations only. Tel: 02-534-1853
Building 5 contains a variety of helicopters, including a Bell 212 (1976-2000), a Westland WS-51 Dragonfly (1950-54), a Sikorsky Yr-6A (1953-62), and many others. On display in outdoor areas between the hangars is the debris of an Otsu Ki 27On, which a fisherman discovered in the Gulf of Thailand near Nakhon Si Thammarat in 1981. It is believed that the Japanese fighter aircraft flew missions in Thailand during WWII. Non-craft items exhibited on the tarmac include a couple of mobile antiaircraft rocket-launchers. bangkok101.com
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Do
Wedding Fair 2014
Do you believe in
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28 - 30 March 2014 , 11.00 - 21.00 hrs. Menam Grand Ballroom , Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside
estiny ?
Pre-register online
:
http://www.ramadaplazamenamriverside.com
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fashion fallout
Where is Bangkok going wrong when it comes to making waves on the couture scene?
BY GABY DOMAN
F
ebruary marks an important time for fashion across the globe, as New York, Paris, Milan and London showcase their top designers and set the trends for the coming season. But this February also marked a disappointing time for Bangkok’s fashion scene, as the Global Language Monitor’s 10th Annual Survey of the World’s Top Fashion Cities announced its rankings, with Bangkok dropping 23 places since 2013, coming in 52nd out of a list of 55. The reason given was that its “fashion reputation reflected the decline of civil order in Thailand”. Meanwhile, Asian cities such as Shanghai (10th), Tokyo (11th), Singapore (18th) and Hong Kong (20th) all outshone Bangkok in the survey, which is compiled by using tracking technology which analyses the internet, blogs and other media sources. Bangkok is certainly a favourite shopping destination
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best of bangkok
for tourists, thanks to budget shopping malls and markets such as MBK, Chatuchak and Platinum but its fashion scene has always suffered from a slightly lacklustre reputation globally. While it’s hindered by the fact Thailand doesn’t have distinct seasons and that sizing makes it hard to sell Thai designs to western countries, these are small problems that can be reasonably easily overcome. After all, says Saksit Pisalasupongs, half of the design team behind Tube Gallery, “more than half the world doesn’t have four seasons. We don’t need to be good at producing furs and winter fashion to hit global scale. Why not think differently?” The consensus seems to be that, despite some extremely talented designers, the overall fashion scene is a little stale. “I don’t really consume Thai fashion, to be honest,” says Monrissa Leenutaphong, designer for Skin on Skin and Monrissa Couture. “I like the edgier approach of the EU or Japan. I think a weakness of our culture is that people consume brands for the sake of branding and they tend to follow trends of celebrities rather than looking for bangkok101.com
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things that inspire them. They seek confirmation rather than challenging the norms.” Leenutaphong’s concerns can be validated by the constant opening of mega malls full of branded stores and a relative lack of independent boutiques in the city. Nutthatida ‘Nan’ Tohchoodee, who studied Fashion Design at Bangkok Fashion and Arts School and is preparing to launch a new shoe brand, Twelve, agrees that Bangkok needs to think outside its current ‘copycat’ culture. “We always look for trends elsewhere. Japan fever was happening when I was growing up and currently it’s Korean fever,” she says. “In Thai street style there are a lot of brand names and current trend influences. Fashion is about quirks first and trends come in second. We haven’t found the ‘Thai look’ yet.” But that’s not to say Thai fashion isn’t creative or exciting. There are some truly exciting designers in the city, including Fly Now III, Wonder Anatomie and Tube Gallery, to name a few. “There’s a great energy around the Thai fashion scene. I see a great many young talents and this excites me M A RCH 2014 | 19
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best of bangkok top thai designers
Thakoon Born in Nakhon Phanom province, Thakoon Panichgul is a Thai-American designer whose elegant and feminine ready-to-wear collections are a well-established highlight of New York fashion week. His celebrity fans include Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Richie and Michelle Obama. Sretsis The Sretsis sisters have gone from humble beginnings making dresses for each other to opening a small empire of shops spanning the world; from the US to the UAE, Australia, France, Singapore and Japan, to name a few. Their fun and feminine designs and cute detailing as well as some business savvy set them apart from the crowd and got them worldwide attention. Moo Piyasombatkul Another Central Saint Martin’s graduate, Moo Piyasombatkul launched her debut eyewear collection, Baroque Eyes, at Browns Focus. The collection used baroque-style ceramic embellishments to give vintage frames a new lease of life. These quirky designs caught the attention of notoriously fashion-forward pop star, Lady Gaga, as well as a slew of copycat designers across the region.
about the Thai fashion scene,” says Moo Piyasombatkul, a Thai eyewear designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins in London. Pisalasupongs agrees there is a lot of potential for an exciting fashion scene. “There are more and more brands. However, these days more of the brands have a very similar style and direction. I think Thai people who earn well in Bangkok love fashion and consume it on an addictive scale. But fashion is like honey; you need to have a fabulous garden and devoted bees to keep it alive.” And if Bangkok’s bees are more drawn to the appeal of brazen branding rather than local talents, where does that leave emerging designers? Tohchoodee suggests more funding is needed across the whole arts sector in Thailand as a starting point. “Setting up a fashion brand is very challenging. I think the hardest part might be to stand out from the crowd. But putting more money into the arts, including new media and experimental work and more money towards collaborating with international fairs and institutes overseas will help.” Saksit thinks it’s a good start to begin the support even further down the chain, and address the education system in Thailand. 20 | M A RCH 2014
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Disaya London-based Disaya Sorakraikitikul graduated from Central Saint Martins, where she was given the opportunity to train with John Galliano. Since then, she’s launched her own fashion career with a lingerie line, Boudoir by Disaya as well as a ready-to-wear and costume jewellery line. Celebrity fans include Jennifer Lopez and British model Agyness Deyn.
“Thai educational culture is based on memorizing and not thinking. Though Thais are creative, if the system doesn’t encourage students to think, we’re not going to have the great designers or artists the west has,” he says. “Additionally, there is a lack of global business know-how and we need stronger support from our government”. That support could come in the form of the long-awaited Bangkok Fashion City project. The project was first announced in 2003 with a huge budget of 1.8 billion baht, and an aim to establish Bangkok as a global fashion leader. The idea was scrapped in 2006, but now it’s back with a more modest budget of 160 million baht. One of the aims of the project is to develop over 2000 designers and to highlight Siam Square, Bobae Market, Chatuchak and Pratunam. Skeptics think the budget is too low and the focus not heavily enough on development, but perhaps it will prove to be a turning point for Bangkok to start showcasing its talents to the world. The raw materials are there, believes Saksit, but the culture for copying trends needs to be addressed in order to nuture local talent. “There are so many creative spirits starting to voice their views on fashion lately,” he says. “But to have a culture you need to create it yourself, not go looking elsewhere.” bangkok101.com
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28 MAR
free flow whisky cocktail
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT BY
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for ladies (6pm-8pm)
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Transparency is the best policy
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insight
ToTwmo ’Ssatang
S N A P S H OT S
Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21stcentury trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner.
On face
Photo: Tom Vitayakul
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mong major Asian cultures, the notion of face (nha in Thai) and saving face (raksa nha) is a very sensitive subject. For some, their “face” is paramount, something never to be messed with. As a Thai custom, since we all have a face, whether it be a transparent one or a public persona that one projects, we should try to keep each other’s face and reputation intact and all things in harmony. Most Thais can get easily embarrassed. We live in a society with a happy-go-lucky characteristic. We tend to smile and to make fun or joke about things all the time. Our sense of humour and joie-de-vivre, sanuk, has never left us even though we have gone through thick and thin during these difficult times. To avoid conflicts and confrontations and to maintain good relationships, making someone publicly embarrassed – sia nha or nha dtaek – to lose or break someone’s face in Thai, is not a common thing unless it is necessary. Losing face can be as insignificant as khaiy nha – selling face – or as tremendous as nha dtaek – breaking face. Mishaps, faux pas, or simple slip-ups can cause embarrassment or unease, while indiscretion, disclosure of secrets, or downright criticism can lead to humiliation and disgrace. One should have some safeguards for these challenging social situations. So, in our society, we can have different personae and guises. This is what the Thais call saum hua Khon or wearing a Khon mask. Khon comes in various styles of classical mask dances in which the dancers, especially the demons and the simians, wear masks to assume a role. Even Thosakan (10-faced demon or Ravana from Ramayana) has more than one mask. Besides the normal green mask, he would wear a gold one to court and charm Sita (Rama’s wife). So let alone a demon, a human wears more masks than a PR company can keep track. I have a personal example that saving and losing face can be a double-edged sword. A friend of ours did something seriously wrong to our group. Then he was caught red-handed with witnesses and evidences but denied responsibility. One of our mutual friends decided to chastise him face-to-face but the malefactor still kept his face without coming clean. He denied his offences and insisted it was all misunderstood. He could either
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own up to his faults or apologise to everyone. But he still refused. So this is where some of my friends and I drew the line. His face was shattered but his skin is tougher than a rhinoceros hide. This behaviour is called nha daan (tough-faced). I let things cool off for a while and waited my turn to reprimand him. I chose the face-off du jour, the social network. I posted a story about what happened without naming the culprit but most of our close friends would know the situation. Some agreed to what I did while some took a different side. I made the rogue lose face and, in return, I also lost mine. I became the villain because some friends thought that I was too harsh and the wrongdoer shouldn’t have been publicly exposed like that. So how do we go on pretending that nothing had happened? How many more masks do we put on? Consequentially, the offender felt ashamed but his ego or his face was too big to face the truth. Lies and white lies get told every second just to save someone’s face and feelings. Aren’t we strong enough to handle the truth? Where has honesty and integrity gone? If this friend still had any dignity and self-respect to admit his guilt, then I would be more forgiving. If not, he got what he deserves. Face is about Karma after all. Casting the masks aside, if one wears one’s face well, a nice reflection will shine through. Buddhism encourages people to be truthful and to value substance rather than superficial things. The religion does not abide face-saving but wakes us up to reality, our true nature. Facing the truth shows acute selfawareness. It results in good self-esteem, respect, and honour. Personae and masks are illusions that one builds as one’s façade. After all, a mirror has two faces. Why not trying to look inward and view your true self? Most of us still live with desire and self-interest. Our face has become our image. Visual sense strongly overpowers spiritual mindfulness. In these times, name, fame, and recognition seem to help efface all our sins. Nonetheless, as Dorothy Parker said: “Beauty is only skin deep and ugly goes clean to the bone.” After an era of excessive face-protecting, we should face forward to the new age of consideration of our true self and not our face. M A RCH 2014 | 23
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very thai
I the
royal garuda The mythic man-bird is vishnu’s mount
s it a bird? Is it a plane? No, it’s Garuda, the ubiquitous symbol of state. Actually, this mythical creature is partbird – being a superman-eagle of legend – and does indeed appear on royal Thai planes. The reason: Thai kings are named Rama after an avatar of Vishnu, every Hindu god has a vehicle, and Vishnu’s flying mount is Garuda. Each royal vehicle – from Rolls-Royce to trains and boats and planes – will become a Garuda, whose beaked physique projects from grill, carriage, prow and fuselage. The image may be small or a man-sized, such as the double-statue of Vishnu riding Garuda that King Rama V placed upon an early motorcar. Whatever its size, Garuda appears on the upper front of anything related to divine kingship. Phra Khrut, as Thais call him, conveys the presence of the monarch in the lives of Thais. He certifies authenticity on official letterheads, title deeds, passports, ID cards and banknotes. As a red rubber stamp, Khrut validates wedding certificates, visas and bureaucratic forms. An embodiment of power in action, Garuda has many jobs to do. Embroidered into throne cushions, ceremonial monks’ fans and the cloths hanging from the king’s podium, Khrut also flutters upon the yellow maharat flag indicating the king’s presence.
> Very Thai
Artwork: John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip CornwelSmith | B 995
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Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, ‘Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture’ is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com
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chronicle of thailand
S N A P S H OT S
FEBRUARY 21, 1971
‘Impossible’
dream fulfilled
> Chronicle of Thailand
EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450 Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, 9 June 1946, the book presents a vivid eye-witnessaccount of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced.
Local band wins ‘best band’ DRUG title for the third year running
OUST
armed fo
fter winning the annual best band award at the King’s Cup for the third year running, from The Impossibles proved that homegrown Thai pop bands could hold their own among the best of imported competition. Chiang Rai Thai forces “We had to work very hard because there were lots of good bands up against us,”against lead drug lord Khun guitarist Sithi Amornphant said. Wining the trophy for the third time helped launch The his 200-mule opium ca Impossibles to new heights and the band’s earnings skyrocketed as they moved away from Several thousand the small bars of Phetchaburi Road to play bigger concerts. by planes and helicopte The Impossibles formed in 1967 and were among the first Thai pop bands to cover stronghold at Ban Hin T Western songs. The band quickly built a large following, writing a host of songs for the (SUA). At least 1,000 re Tone. soundtracks of popular films, such as Chuen Rak and Roeng Rotfai for the 1970 hit as fierce fighting flared The Impossibles played from written music rather than copying songs by ear. This, they After Thai and SU claimed, enabled them to work out far more sophisticated arrangements than their local a truce proposal put for contemporaries. After winning over Thailand, the band set their sights on the world,Tinsulanond and in stated: “A 1972 got a gig playing in Hawaii. The Impossibles played there for over a year beforenarcotics hitting trafficking, fac Europe and becoming the first Thai band to record an English-language album overseas. continue its drive again
21 January 1982 > Chronicle of Thailand EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450
destroyed.” It was estim of the region’s heroin. T extensive headquarters and equipment as casu In July, Khun Sa’s troops, fought against t side of Doi Lang mount Chiang Rai provinces. T displaced hundreds of Border Patrol Police. In Sa’s new base on Doi L constructed 200 buildin
Chronicle of Thailand is the story o Adulyadej. Beginning on the day h presents a vivid eye-witness accou major news events of the last 64 y as they unfolded and quirky aspec the news, the book features thous illustrations, representing one of t Thailand ever produced.
still life in moving vehicles
mixed
mythology
I
n Buddhist and Hindu mythology in Thailand, there’s a host of creatures that are part human and part animal, or sometimes these beasts are made up of a combination of two or more critters. Today in the taxi, the driver created his own mythological creature out of two talismans. It has the head of a tiger on the side of a fish. This is what you would literally call a catfish.
CiTy vS. COUNTRy
This cabby literally wears two hats. He dons a baseball cap when he’s driving his cab and puts on this straw hat when he’s farming. This is not uncommon in Bangkok as many cabbies here come from the countryside to drive a taxi between rice plantings and harvests, or when extra income is desperately needed. I asked the driver of this taxi which job he prefers and he told me that he would much rather do farming than drive in this city full of traffic jams and crazy people. Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, Still Life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com). Published by River Books, the spin-off book, Thai Taxi Talismans, is available at bookstores around town for B995. M A RCH 2014 | 25
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LO
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Joean’sgkok B
Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
lumpinee boxing stadium
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ngular, interval-leaping melodies from a lone wood-and-brass Javanese oboe echo from the high-domed stadium walls, conjuring up images of a snake-charming John Coltrane. The metallic ring of tiny finger cymbals punctuates a steady hand-drum tattoo, as all eyes turn and fix themselves on the brightly lit, triplecordoned square enclosure perched altar-like at stadium centre. This was my impression of the scene at Lumpinee Boxing Stadium the first time I attended a thrilling night of multi-limbed mayhem many years ago. Since then I’ve been many times, in spite of the high entrance fees for foreigners, and nowadays I understand a lot more about what’s going on inside and outside the ring. I still feel a thrill when the referee barks “Chok!” – the signal for combat to begin – and the music increases in tempo and volume as the fighters engage. I enjoyed the experience again the night of February 7, 2014, the last night that championship muaythai bouts would ever be held at the original Lumpinee 26 | M A RCH 2014
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Boxing Stadium before moving to a new stadium at the northeastern outskirts of Bangkok. By my estimation the rambling post-WWII Art Deco building has hosted roughly 9,000 fight nights after its official opening in 1956 on Rama IV Road near Lumpini Park (the official spelling for the stadium is ‘Lumpinee’). Figuring up to 10 fights per night, that potentially comes to a mind-boggling 90,000 matches. Royal Thai Army General Prapas Jarusatien was the driving force behind the construction of Lumpinee, which today is operated by Thailand’s Army Welfare Department. Stadium rules mandate that boxers must weigh more than 45.4kg, be aged over 15 years and the weight difference between the boxers may not exceed 2.3 kg. Women are not allowed to fight in the stadium or enter the ring. The atmosphere at Lumpinee has traditionally been looser and more populist than the proceedings at Rajdamnern and audience response tends to be livelier. Lumpinee also has a policy of encouraging non-Thai boxers to compete. The stadium has an exceptionally loyal bangkok101.com
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fan base, and a Lumpinee championship belt represents the pinnacle of achievement for any muaythai fighter. One of the most famous Lumpinee champions in recent decades was Parinya Kiatbusaba, a male transvestite from Chiang Mai who arrived for weigh-ins wearing lipstick and rouge. After his 1998 triumph at Lumpinee, Parinya used his earnings to pay for gender reassignment surgery and became a consultant for Beautiful Boxer, a cinematic version of his life. Another notable Lumpinee event occurred in 1999 when French-Algerian fighter Mourad Sari became the first nonThai fighter to take home a weight-class championship belt. The only other two non-Thai Lumpinee champs have been France’s Damien Alamos and the late Ramon Dekkers. Undefeated Lumpinee champion Dieselnoi Chor Thanasukarn created a new approach to knee strikes that was so difficult to defend that he retired in the early 1980s at age 23 because no one dared fight him anymore. Dieselnoi also pioneered a counter-move to the cross-wrist neck hold that has rendered the latter virtually extinct. Lumpinee is the only major stadium in Thailand where gambling is legally sanctioned. Betters station themselves in the second level – which affords the best view of the action – and use hand-signals, much like brokers on a stock exchange trading floor, to communicate bets. The Crown Property Bureau, owner of the land where the old stadium was located, requested that Lumpinee relocate so that the property could be used for higherrevenue commercial development. The Army, who always had a year-to-year rental contract on the land, agreed to move the stadium, as there was a consensus that the original stadium was becoming obsolete in both design and capacity. The new Lumpinee Boxing Stadium occupies land adjacent to the Army Sports Development Centre on bangkok101.com
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S N A P S H OT S
Ramintra Road. Construction of the brand-new buildings began in August 2012, and the first fight was held on Tuesday, February 11th, 2014 without any interruption to Lumpinee’s decades-old thrice-weekly schedule. The new facility consists of the Lumpinee Boxing Stadium itself, with a capacity of over 5000 spectators, the stadium offices, a five-storey parking structure, a muaythai museum, a muaythai training school and a food and beverage concession for boxing fans. I attended the opening night at the new stadium and was very impressed with the main layout – which is divided into three levels as at the original stadium, only bigger – and especially the better lighting, which reveals every detail of the action. A large and very readable LED display makes it easier to keep track of fight clock time, rounds and match numbers. The thing I most miss from the old Lumpinee is the worn-smooth teakwood benches, replaced here by cement. The location, for those living in central Bangkok, is also an obvious drawback. That said, getting to the new stadium isn’t as difficult as I thought it would be. One of the easiest ways is to take the MRT to Phahonyothin station, from which it’s a relatively short taxi ride to the stadium. One can also get there aboard city bus numbers 26, 95 and 520. Lumpinee matches have followed the same schedule for many years: Tuesday and Friday at 6 pm, and on Saturday at 5 pm and 8.30 pm. Ticket prices for foreigners have been reduced by 500 baht a ticket and now cost 2,000 baht for second level and 2,500 baht for ringside. Second level views are still better here than ringside views, though ringside is slightly better than at old Lumpinee.
Lumpinee Boxing Stadium 6 Ramintra Rd, Bang Khen | muaythailumpinee.net
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Bizarre
Thailand
A 20-year resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has contributed to many guidebooks and authored Tuttle Travel Pack Thailand. He’s also compiled tales of the unexpected, called ‘Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic’. For more bytes and pixels check
out jimalgie.com.
the last executioner
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or Chavoret Jaruboon, the hardest part of being on the execution team at the country’s biggest maximum-security jail was walking into the deathrow cell to tell the prisoner that he was about to be executed. “Whatever crimes the person had committed, they were still heroes to their families,” the former chief executioner of Bang Kwang Central Prison says. “The inmates had time to write a letter to their family, and have a last cigarette and a meal, but they usually didn’t feel like eating. They were also given the chance to see a Buddhist monk for a final blessing.” Blindfolded, and with chains around their ankles, the condemned man or woman would be escorted by guards into the death chamber. There, their hands were tied together with the sacred white thread that monks use to bless devotees and to ward off evil, so they could clutch three unopened lotus blossoms, three joss-sticks and a small orange candle, as if they were going to pray at a Buddhist temple. While Chavoret waited behind the gun, the guards would then tie the inmate to a wooden cross with his hands above his head, and put a white screen between him and the machine-gun, which was bolted to 28 | M A RCH 2014
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the floor and pointed at his back. Finally, a doctor put a target on the screen where the prisoner’s heart was, so the executioner could take aim and fire. That was how the death penalty was carried out after the government outlawed beheading in 1932, and before Thailand switched to lethal injection in late 2003. Chavoret recalls the condemned men and women being led in to the chamber: “I heard it all—crying, begging and cursing. But some of them just walked in without a word. They were ready to die.” Until being diagnosed with cancer in 2010, these were the kind of tales that the former rock ‘n’ roll musician recounted for rapt audiences at Thai universities and remand centres for juvenile delinquents, which he also included in his 2007 autobiography, The Last Executioner. Until his death in April 2012, Chavoret also volunteered as a tour guide at the Corrections Museum once a month. The museum is on the grounds of Romanee Nart Park, not far from the Golden Mount and Khaosan Road in Bangkok. On display are knives and syringes made by former inmates, along with implements of torture once used in Siamese jails. On the ground floor, there’s a huge rattan ball—like the ones used in takraw, the Asian version bangkok101.com
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of volleyball—with sharp nails protruding from the inside. Curled up inside the ball is a mannequin of a prisoner. To punish the inmates or amuse themselves, the authorities would let an elephant kick the ball around. After it got bored, the tusker would often trample the bloody ball and squash the prisoner. This type of torture (and others like it) was outlawed by King Rama V at the end of the 19th century. Filled with flowerbeds, shrubs, joggers and school kids, the park was once the site of Bangkok’s most draconian jail, as evidenced by the vacant row of jail cells on the north side and the guard towers that stand like stone sentinels. Built by the French at the end of the 19th century, most of the Maha Chai penitentiary was demolished in the 1980s. Some of the inmates were transferred to Bang Kwang Central Prison, such as convicted heroin traffickerturned-author Warren Fellows who did ‘hard time’ in both penal facilities, and wrote an autobiography about his experiences titled The Damage Done: 12 Years Of Hell In A Thai Prison. To punish certain convicts, he wrote, they were locked in a ‘dark room’ for 23 hours and 55 minutes a day. The popularity of his book has had some positive effects, such bangkok101.com
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as the banning of these torture chambers, the prison’s former director Pittaya Sanghanakin claimed at what must have been the most bizarre anniversary celebration ever held at any correctional facility. In 2002, Bang Kwang Central Prison celebrated its 72nd anniversary with live bands, retinues of sexy female dancers, comedians and beauty pageant contestants. For many of the locals visiting the two-day party, the biggest lure was the display of archaic torture instruments – complete with life-size mannequins, on loan from the Corrections Museum – like the original machine-gun used at Bang Kwang, and a tableau of two machete-wielding executioners dressed in red outfits about to lop the head off a blindfolded prisoner. Watching families, beauty queens and rich matriarchs walking their poodles past these exhibits was a crash course in the country’s bizarre contrasts. This is an excerpt from Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourism attractions. M A RCH 2014 | 29
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listings
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall [map 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo Tue -Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam noen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [map 4/A3]
M.r. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [map 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 02-286-8185 Sat-Sun 10 am-5pm, Mon-Fri by appt B 50 / B 20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION [map 8/F8] 139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd | 02-281-1569 9:30 am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD palace [MAP 8/K11]
Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 suanpakkad.com | 9am-4pm | B100 jimthompsonhouse.com | 9am-5pm B100 / B 50 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed graduate and former spook who revived Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard the hand-woven Thai silk industry before pays testament to her dedication to disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things ERAWAN SHRINE [map 4/G5] to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan home beside a pungent canal: six traditional BTS Chit Lom teak houses from around the country kept Don’t expect serenity here. This is one exactly as he left them.
of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30 pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
SHRINES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [map 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094 8:30am-4:30pm | B 400 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in
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listings
a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.
WAT ARUN [map 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd 02-465-5640 | watarun.org 8am-5pm | B 20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.
WAT PO (reclining buddha) [map 7/D12]
Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd 02-226-0369 | watpho.com 8am-noon, 1pm-9pm | B100 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.
WAT MAHATHAT [map 7/C8] Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm | Free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are
set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.
WAT RATCHANATDA [map 7/K8] Mahachai Rd | 02-224-8807 9am-5pm | free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.
WAT SAKET [map 7/L8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.
WAT SUTHAT & the GIANT SWING [map 7/H9] Bamrung Muang Rd | 02-222-9632 9am-5pm | B 20 Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to
S N A P S H OT S
catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
WAT TRAIMIT [map 6/L3] 661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B 20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [map 8/L11, 12]
85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng). Ratchaprarop Rd 02-245-3008 | bangkokdolls.com Mon-Sat 8am-5pm | free Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
bangkokian MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking
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revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
Madame tussauds [map 4/C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-658-0060 madametussauds.com/Bangkok 10am -9pm | B 800 / B 600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe's famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 02-653-5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm ( App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it's open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
Museum of Siam [map 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier 02-622-2599 | ndmi.or.th Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | Free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with 32 | M A RCH 2014
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pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [map 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang 02-224-1333 | thailandmuseum.com Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B 200 | no photo Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam's main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [map 7/K7] 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02-621-0044 nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hardto-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [map 7/B4] 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 02-424-0004 | 9am-5pm B 30 / B100 photo / B 200 video This collection of ornate royal barges,
some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [map 1/F6] 296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan province | 02-709-1644 | ancientcity.com B 500 / B 250 kids / B1500 private guide in English for two hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing.
THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1/E5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya Nakorn Pathom province nfat.org 02-482-2013-15 | Sat-Sun tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; MonFri: by appointment | Free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, props and costumes. bangkok101.com
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Wai Khru
Nakhorn Chaisri P
erhaps the most bizarre – and certainly the wildest – upcountry festival on the calendar this month is the annual Wai Khru at Wat Bang Phra, to be held this year on March 23. Wat Bang Phra, a rural temple in Nakhorn Chaisri district, 40km from Bangkok, is famed for an early abbot who specialised in giving and activating talismanic tattoos which are said to protect the wearer from harm and bestow good luck. Luang Phor Pern died several years ago, but Wat Bang Phra continues on his traditions, culminating in this annual event during which invites all the temple’s tattooed disciples visit for a series of ceremonies which respect to the late abbot and other monks at the temple. Beyond reaffirming the disciples’ allegiance and respect to the khru sak, the occasion allows the master to re-consecrate all of the sak yan previously inked on his disciples.
In the early morning hours, the faithful sit cross-legged on mats in front of a platform topped by a large black statue of Luang Phor Pern. According to tradition, once the tattooed start going into trances, their sak yan (sacred tattoos) “wake up” and begin calling to the monks up on the stage. The men then begin to act like the tattoos depicted on their backs and chests. Lizards crawl on their bellies, hermits inch along like old men, birds flap their wings and screech, and then there are the tigers the wat is most famed for, who growl, roar, and eventually charge in a frenzy towards the stage. Security bruisers grab the entranced as they rush forward and pat their ears to help calm them down. At the end, the faithful climb aboard buses home, convinced that they are safe and that their tigers are back in their cages – at least for another year.
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up country now
Art of Salt Festival
Samui Fine Dining Festival
March 1-31 Samui Fine Dining Festival Thirteen of Samui’s top fine dining venues will serve a fivecourse menu for B3750 per person, including a bottle of Champagne Lombard. This culinary extravaganza could be a perfect choice for those wishing to experience a worldclass selection of island restaurants. Check out menus and participating restaurants at samuifinediningfestival.com
Wai Khru Muay Thai Ceremony
March 18-24 Ranong Travel Festival The event is being held at the Ranong Municipal Administration Office, in order to boost local tourism in this little-known, but fascinating place. Highlights at the festival include a retro market, folk cultural performances, light-and-sound presentation, delicious local food fair, Ms Andaman contest, and international fishing competition.
March 13 National Thai Elephant Day Thailand’s national icon is so beloved that they get their own day. Elephant camps across the land will give their resident jumbos a big feed, but the most unusual celebration will be at the Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle. The bucolic resort is offering guests a two-night package that includes the chance to learn the basics of elephant polo.
March 14-16 Art of Salt Festival Great piles of imaginatively-styled salt will pop up in nearby Phetchaburi province between these dates. Though on paper it doesn’t sound much fun, we’re assured that the artworks fashioned from huge mountains of the stuff will be impressive, plus there will be the chance to learn about salt panning and try it yourself.
March 17 Wai Khru Muay Thai Ceremony Muay Thai boxers from all over the world return to Ayuthaya – home to the legendary Muay Thai folk hero, Nai Khanom Tom – to participate in the ceremony and show their appreciation for this amazing martial art. Enjoy the professional Muay Thai competition as well as demonstrations of Thai arts and handicrafts, including the inking of traditional Thai tattoos. 36 | M A RCH 2014
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National Thai Elephant Day
March 21-23 Pattaya International Music Festival Get your groove on at the most recognised music events in Thailand, which attracts visitors from all over Asia. Local and international artists of all music genres will entertain music lovers from dusk till midnight on four different stages. Souvenir booths and food vendors also gather along the beach during three days of Asia’s longest beach music festival. bangkok101.com
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hotel review
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Grand Hyatt Erawan
There’s an increasing fashion for more ‘youthful’ hotels, for edgy design aesthetics or different approaches that play with the way hotels use space. But even allowing for that – and the fact that innovation can of course be exciting when done well – there’s also no substitute for class and the Grand Hyatt Erawan has that in spades. The front doors open into a cavernous foyer – cool, airy and pleasantly still all at once, an ideal retreat from the hustle and bustle of Sukhumvit. There’s the relaxed, open-plan flagship restaurant to the left and the delicious Tables – more on that later – one floor up. The rooms themselves are comfortable and tastefully put together according to all the principles that have made the Hyatt brand so globally successful. The contrast of white walls and dark wood furniture creates a clean, streamlined effect without feeling over-designed. The bathrooms are slightly less spacious but the black slate tiling in the shower and the window between the bath tub and the living area are nice touches. If you’re checked in to the Grand Club, make sure you head up for a cocktail and a snack at some point. There’s an exceptionally well-stocked bar – pouring your own drinks feels even more satisfying when there’s so much to choose from bangkok101.com
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– and some top-notch nibbles, whether you fancy a cheese platter or a sandwich or a few slices of smoked salmon. Don’t spoil your appetite, though, because a visit to the Grand Hyatt Erawan wouldn’t be complete without dinner at Tables. It’s modern European but with some flourishes borrowed from elsewhere and somehow manages to a satisfying heartiness with seriously refined technique, all washed down with some excellent drops of wines.
grand hyatt erawan
[MAP 4/g5]
494 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-254-1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com
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island escape
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explore
koh kradan Just south of Koh Lanta, Koh Kradan is the perfect spot for travellers chasing some peace and quiet in a low-key, pristine setting.
BY LEO SCHADEBERG
S
ometimes you want your beach to have all the touristy trimmings. And sometimes you just want a beach with barely a soul in sight. Koh Kradan, a pristine island located off Trang province’s coastline, marooned in the Andaman Sea, ticks the latter box. An island with no ATMs, no villages, no shops and no roads, Koh Kradan has few, if any, of the creature comforts of better known islands, but does have one thing in abundance: beauty. With stunning white sand tracing its eastern shoreline, it is without doubt the most beautiful of all the islands in this region, a fact that goes some way to explaining why it is the location for much publicised underwater weddings every Valentine’s Day. Koh Kradan is just one of the many islands located within Hat Chao Mai National Park, which has been in existence since 1981 and is widely considered by environmental types to be one of the most scenic and unspoilt regions of the country. Most of its 600 acres fall within the jurisdiction of the park, the rest privately owned rubber and coconut plantations. Exploring this interior, which like many of its neighbours is home to interesting wildlife, some of them endangered, has its appeal for some. But Koh Kradan’s beach is without doubt its best asset, as it’s one of the few in Thailand with an amazing underwater world, a full-on reef, close enough to explore. The crystal-clear water is perfect for snorkelling, with myriad breeds of colourful fish darting in and out of the coral reefs. You can also jump into a sea
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island escape
kayak and head to the west side of the island, where more isolated beaches await you, or wander along the path to Sunset Beach to enjoy the sunset over the Andaman Sea. Some island dwellers even opt to swim around the whole island. Otherwise, this is just a place to do, well, nothing really. Read a bestseller or three. Tie your hammock to your bungalow poles. Hop in and drift off to the sound of the emerald waters lapping at the white, powdery beach. Stare out to the horizon of endless blue by day; gaze up dreamily into the dark starlit sky by night. As for places to stay, there are resorts scattered along the beach, but for the full-on, old-school, barefoot traveller vibe we recommend the Kradan Island Resort. Tucked away at the north of the island facing a private white sand beach and crystal clear water, it’s a spot that brings to mind Thailand’s seaside back in the 1970s and 80s, a time when the beach itself, not some overly designed and pricey hotel, was the destination. As rustic as it is simple, you won’t find a choice of deluxes or suites with private infinity pools. Some slick, sleek boutique hotel that costs a small fortune this ain’t. What you will find are 11 bamboo-stitch bungalows, all facing the beach and set under swaying coconut palms. Just behind these are the family bungalows, again all facing the beach and sea, only with two floors, some with a balcony on the higher level. For the serious beach budgeter, there are also a few bungalows at the back with shared outside bathrooms. The rooms and interiors are where things get truly basic. 40 | M A RCH 2014
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They consist of nothing more than a mattress, stretching across the room, a bed, a bedsheet and a mosquito net. A few pictures on the wall complete the interior decoration. But you don’t come to Kradan Island Resort to stay inside the room. Here, most of the inaction happens outside. Simple but satisfying Thai food is served at its seaview restaurant – a popular chill-out spot at sunset. And the resorts friendly owners run cooking classes for those who fancy themselves as chefs. Tours around the island and to other idyllic spots, such as the Emerald Cave on Koh Muk or the nearby island of Koh Ngai, can also be arranged.
Going there:
From Bangkok you can fly or catch a train or bus to Trang (note, if coming by train will need to go via Surathani). From Trang, head to Kuan Thunggu Pier by mini-van. From there a ferry to Koh Muk leaves every day at 11am. There you can arrange a pick-up to Koh Kradan. Another pier near Trang is Pak Meng. In the high season you can catch a boat direct to Koh Kradan from here, the journey time only 90 minutes. If you are on one of the islands like Phuket, Koh Phi Phi, Koh Lanta or even on one further south like Koh Lipe, Koh Libong, there is a Tigerline boat service.
STAYING THERE:
Kradan Island Resort: 081-712-7727; kohkradanislandresort.com. High season (Dec-April) is B700-B2,400, while low season (May-Nov) is B400-1800.
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TANTALISE YOUR TASTE BUDS THIS FESTIVE SEASON
Indian (North South East & West) | Thai | Indo Chinese | Sweets & Savouries Jain Food is also available
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PATTAYA Outlet: 557, Sun City Hotel, Pratumnak Rd., Pattaya Tai (South) Tel: 038 424 769
Email/Web: www.saras.co.th Facebook: www.facebook.com/SarasVegFood
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meeting the
Locals A trip to the jungles of Northern Sumatra brings travellers in touch with the men of the forest. BY MARCO FERRARESE PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHAN KIT YENG
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over the border
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ur guide Ricky, the Indonesian version of a Rastafarian with dense knots of hair reaching down to his lower back, hushes in the direction of the jungle: “Please hold still. Don’t move.” His quirky style would be reason for a collective raise of eyebrows in most places. But here in the depths of Gunung Leuser National Park’s thicket, what’s happening before us is far more unusual. My girlfriend, a petite Malaysian Chinese who dared step a bit too close for the sake of a picture-perfect moment, is crouching next to an orangutan twice her size. The primate hovers in mid-air, three limbs clutching a web of rattan lianas, his right hand held around her left thigh. His facial expression remains unchanged besides the intermittent flinch of his black lips. “Fantastic, don’t move” – Ricky’s voice sounds as calm as the surface of a swimming pool on closing day, but we can all surmise that he’s hoping for this to end without a fractured femur. The air remains dense with anticipation until the bemused monkey releases his catch and slowly lifts his arm back up into the vegetation. My girlfriend remains still for a few long moments, and it’s only when the orangutan takes his gaze off her that she slowly retraces towards our group, moving away as swiftly as she can. Indeed, these are beautiful creatures; but they can also tear a human limb apart very easily. Don’t get me started on the bites. “Who’s up next for pictures?” Ricky asks, smiling. In our group of six, some fiddle with their cameras, but no one dares step forward. I know. It’s completely silly to get that close to orangutans in the wild. But it’s also true that besides Bukit Lawang in Northern Sumatra, Indonesia, there are very few other places in the world where one can get up close and personal with the semi-wild men of the forest. And that’s exactly why we decided to visit and hire guides to trek into the park, an experience that rewards those who want to rough it for a night in the jungle with incredible encounters. Situated 86km northeast of busy Medan, the village of Bukit Lawang has been home to Swiss-managed and WWF-funded Bohorok Rehabilitation Centre since 1973. Foreign funding stopped in 1980 when the Indonesian Government took over and by 1996 the centre stopped admitting orangutans as it no longer met the standards of species re-introduction. Besides deforestation and lack of resources, the orangutans continued to attract tourists and provide vital lymph to the village until a flood tore it down to its foundations on November 2, 2003. Bukit Lawang was re-built by foreign aid in 2004. Today, the new village is a stitched-up collection of thatched huts and concrete guesthouses lined at the two sides of the Bohorok river. The swinging bridges that connect the two embankments give the place an eerie atmosphere, as if someone had taken out the batteries from its wall clock and pushed its hands back in time. The day before, we arrived on a bemo – standard Indonesian ramshackle mini-van – and lodged at a simple guesthouse. We came all this way to see the orangutans, but didn’t want to do so artificially from a feeding platform.
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We didn’t have to wait long before Ricky approached with a broad smile and a swing of his long, curvy hair: “Please give me some business, or I’ll have to go back to work at the rubber plantation.” We couldn’t refuse such an utterly honest pick-up line so, the next morning, Ricky and two other guides lead us and four other travellers through a rubber estate and deep into the jungle. Less than two hours into our morning slog, we have our first encounter. Perched in the midst of lianas which tickle their way down to the ground, our first sample of orange-colored fur doesn’t panic as we surround it. Observing the animal’s relaxed movements is mesmerising; but when it reaches out and grabs my girlfriend’s leg, everyone’s hairs raise. After the monkey lets go, we continue deeper into the jungle on our way to the lunch stop, and the canopy M A RCH 2014 | 43
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over the border
ahead of us starts rumbling. Ricky and his friends hold us back. “It’s Mina. She’s got quite a temper as she recently delivered her baby,” Ricky says. “Just stay back and still.” He barely has time to finish speaking before the canopy shakes apart and a big orangutan rushes toward us. Its grin is filled with a mouthful of angry teeth; clinging under its armpit, a baby scans the scene with awkward curiosity. Mina stops a few metres ahead of us and a thunder rumbles inside her ample chest. It’s only when Ricky takes out a bunch of fruit and offers it to her that she retires back into the thicket: she’s appeased with our token, and we are free to move on. By the time we reach our campsite next to the riverbed, we get to know that besides orangutans, the jungle wriggles with black gibbons, black leaf monkeys and a few emerald-coloured snakes we take care not to touch. In the pitch-black darkness that follows a glorious sunset, the sound of the nearby river and the hoot of monkeys fill the night with jungle awe. We gather round a fireplace as our guides serve dinner: once they take out the guitars, it’s a mix of reggae and canopy clatter that drift us into sleep, as it’s pitch-black outside our tent and nobody wants to risk coming face to face with an orangutan in the dark. The final surprise comes in the early morning: as we wake up and reach for the river for our ablutions, we notice that something is waiting next to the campfire’s remains. I 4 4 | M A RCH 2014
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can’t help but laugh when I see a smaller orangutan pour liquid from a condensed milk can into its mouth. It looks exactly as if it were a human sipping the last water drops from a cup. “You are very lucky today... this is Jackie,” Ricky explains as he tries to catch the monkey’s attention. Like two friends who haven’t hung out in a while, man and beast cross gazes until the latter drops her makeshift cup and comes closer to our encampment. The other guides, toasting some bread over the fire, quickly reach for the food supplies and stash them out of orangutan reach. But Jackie seems more amused by men than food and comes very close, her steps slow and her eyes timidly fixed on the ground before her. It seems like she’s silently asking to be allowed to sit among us humans. We take turns to stand inches from her and admire her closely as shutters flicker madly. It’s time head back – via the river. Sitting inside inflated tractor tubes, we float all the way back to Bukit Lawang until we stop at a bay nestled below the swinging bridges. “Come back again soon,” says Ricky as he collects the tubes and puts them on a canoe, preparing to tackle an upriver trip. As the sputter of his boat’s engine fades behind the furthest river bend, I wonder if his next batch of tourists will be as lucky as us, or if it’s all part of the business deal he sealed with the men of the jungle. bangkok101.com
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The Stylish
New Way to Sleep in Bangkok
seven design hotel 3/15 Sukhumvit 31 Bangkok 10110 t: +662.662.0951 f: +662.662.3344 e: info@sleepatseven.com www.sleepatseven.com march.book.indb 45
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a r t
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man-made meanings Religious iconography gets a serious tweaking in Holy Kitsch, showing at Whitespace Gallery (1 Sala Dang 1; 0816-995-298; whitesp-cegallery.com) until March 28. Pornwipa Suriyakarn graduated from the Faculty of Painting, Sculpture and Graphic Arts at Silpakorn University and in this exhibitions uses a combination of contemporary and traditional materials to create new forms. This fusion of ancient and contemporary art reflects the changes being wrought by rapid globalisation. Pornwipa has won several awards including the fifth Amata Award third prize and the bronze medal for mixed media at the National Exhibition of Art. Her works have been widely shown in Thailand and were included in shows at the Thai Bank Museum, Silapakorn University, and Korean Cultural Center Bangkok. Most recently Pornwipa’s works were shown at the Maduzi Hotel Art Fair and the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre.
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ART & C u lt u r e
exhibitions
The State of Impermanence
Paintbox Volume 2
I&I
Artery Post-modern gallery [MAP 5/d5] 2/2 Silom Soi 19, Silom Rd | 02-635-3133 10am-7am | arterybkk.com
Until March 8 As street art increasingly moves between urban spaces and gallery walls, its creators have also taken more to executing works as live performance. Works by the Japanese ‘livepainting’ duo Doppel from Kyoto can already be seen at cultural in-spots around the city.
paintbox volume 2
Brand New
I&I
radiation
Chulalongkorn University Art Centre [MAP 8/j14] 7F, Office of Academic Resources, Chulalongkorn University 02-662-6246 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm | car.chula.ac.th/art
Until April 5 Having previously exhibited in Manila in 2012, this group exhibition has been expanded to include 25 artists who explore notions of ‘queer’ across regional geographies and histories. Curated by Bangkok resident Brian Curtin, the exhibition aims to explode existing stereotypes. Radiation
GOJA Gallery Cafe [MAP 3/y11] Sukhumvit 71, 5/2 Soi Pridi Banomyong 3 | 085-848-7576 Tues-Sun 11am-9pm | facebook/gojaphrakanong
March 7-April 6 Goja opened earlier this year and the second part of their debut exhibition opens this month. Volume 2 will feature Japanese department of cultural affairs award winning Maharo, Kimgym, spiritual painter Tokio Aoyama, and figure sculptor TKO from Japan.
brand new
wtf gallery [MAP 3/q10] 7 Sukhumvit soi 51 | 02-662-6246 Tues-Sun 3pm-8pm | wtfbangkok.com
Until March 23 An annual exhibition for emerging artists, Brand New has quickly emerged as one of the best platforms to gain domestic exposure. The breakthrough of former participants Yuree Kensaku, Porntaweesak Rimsakul, Arin Rungjang, and Natthawut Singthong is testament to its influence. 48 | M A RCH 2014
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the state of impermanence
ARDEL’s Third Place Gallery [MAP 3/s6] Thong Lor Soi 10 | 02-422-2092 Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | ardelgallery.com
March 25-April 27 Viewers will be walked through the Buddhism’s teachings about the uncertainty of life, birth, existence and death that occur to everything, living or not. The portrayal of the idea is made in calm and serene manner through lines and various colours reflecting the artist’s feelings. bangkok101.com
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bangkok gets dressed.
salads, wraps, sandwiches, paninis, soups, smoothies Mercury Ville 540 Ploenchit Road Chidlom/Langsuan Intersection Ground Floor BTS: Chidlom Open Daily 10am - 10pm Tel. 02-658-6688
Siam Paragon 991 Rama1 Road Ground Floor (Opposite MK Gold) BTS: Siam Open Daily 10am - 10pm Tel. 02-610-7714
www.dressedsalads.com www.facebook.com/dressedthailand Home delivery via
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Finding peace in change French photographer Daniel Cordonnier creates a blur of movement BY TOM STURROCK
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exhibitions
ART & C u lt u r e
“movement is true life. nothing simply exists. everything is transformation ”
D
aniel Cordonnier’s photographs are not like the static, fixed images that usually line gallery walls. Instead, they are a dreamlike blur of semitransparent shapes super-imposed on to one another. His exhibition, The Beauty of Peace, opened at the end of last month and runs until April 16 at Modern Gallery. Cordonnier lived most of his life in Paris but has been living and working in Bangkok for the past three years. He has a distinctive style but explains that he came upon it almost by accident. “I was not a photographer, I never went to school to learn but it was my hobby,” he says. “But a friend asked me to take a picture of their house – it was late at night and difficult because it was dark. But I made some adjustments in my camera and then, as I shot, somebody bumped my shoulder. It meant when the photo came out, the sky was full of colour. But in the beginning it was an accident. But this technique I discover by myself.” Although reluctant to discuss the particulars of his technique, Cordonnier reveals that the effect is captured through long exposure – keeping his lens open longer – and then moving his camera to create a sense of movement. “I open my lens for maybe one or two or maybe 10 seconds depending what I want to do,” he says. “I cannot explain some of the secrets but I move with my camera and I mix two planes, exposed at the same time. You take a photo of someone’s face and put it in the sky – it’s not a mistake with Photoshop. I want to show some shape or some colour, maybe a landscape.” Cordonnier speaks lucidly about his technique and his artistic ambitions but this confidence is relatively newly found. Indeed, it is only recently that he found the courage to share his work with the public. “For a long time, I wanted to do an exhibition but I was afraid to show my pictures,” he says. “I felt like I was naked bangkok101.com
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if I showed them. But I trust now – before I did not trust 100 per cent.” Although unmistakeably French, Cordonnier travelled widely before moving to Bangkok. His photos draw inspiration from Buddhism and yoga as he tries to create small explosions of beauty in a world bombarded with images of ugliness. To that end, Cordonnier’s journeys brought him to Bangkok, where he has never been short of stimuli. “Bangkok is a big, big city - 12-15 million people I love it for the architecture, for the events,” he says. “I think it is the only city I could live in Asia. Paris is an old city with an old culture, but it is boring. My eyes are not surprised.” “Bangkok is very different – there is an energy coming. I feel the difference between here and Paris. There is a strong history but the way they talk, it is always about the past. Here, in Bangkok, they speak about the present and the future. I have started some new series about Bangkok, the urban streets at night. But that is for next time” It is this dynamism and sense of energy that infuses Cordonnier’s photographs and makes them so eyecatching. Indeed, he professes to be bored with more conventional images. “I like to show the movement because that is true life,” Cordonnier says. “Nothing simply exists – everything is transformation.”
the beauty of peace until april 16 modern gallery
[MAP 8/f17]
46 OP Garden, Charoen Krung 36 | 02-238-6449 Facebook: Modern Gallery | Mon-Fri 11am-7pm
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cheat notes
Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls By Chawadee Nualkhair
If you’ve been admiring Bangkok’s sidewalk kitchens from afar, but not had the confidence to approach one, pick up a copy of this handy little guide. In it self-titled Bangkok glutton Chawadee Nualkhair whittles down the capital’s roughly half a million food stalls down to, erm, fifty. Though that’s absurd, she has chosen wisely, picking only hygienic stalls that offer something special in the best-known streetfood areas. However, what really condemns this book to a life of tom-yum-splattered servitude is its overview of the different types of noodles, rice-based dishes, desserts and beverages. All are clearly decoded, illustrated and listed with Thai script – neat. We’re also fans of the maps, the blank pages, so you can jot down your favourites, and Chawadee’s fluff-free prose: “Restrooms: yes, squat toilet, bring your own toilet paper”, etc.
Buddhist Murals of Northeast Thailand
By Bonnie Pacala Brereton & Somray Yencheuy | Mekong Press Books on Thai murals have tended to focus on those commissioned by the elite, namely those in Bangkok’s temples. Until now, that is. This glossy volume casts its gaze on the more democratic, funloving and pastoral murals that encircle the sim, or ordination halls, of temples up in the northeast, Isaan. Honing in on temples in Khon Kaen, Kalasin and Roi Et, it’s an accessible primer to this unsung subschool of Thai painting, with chapters on everything from the Buddhist and folk tales told, to how to ‘read’ them. The authors also draw intriguing links between them and the pha pha wet, or horizontal cloths, paraded at Isaan festivals. Full-colour close-ups of often bawdy scenes, which were painted using natural dyestuffs on a pale cream background.
ART & C u lt u r e
Confluence: the Indian by Nature Cookbook Av Khanijou | Pen to Pixel
Indian by Nature is a Pattaya-based restaurant that prides itself on serving authentic north Indian cuisine, reflecting the Thai owners’ Punjabi roots. Opened in 2004, it has already become a major part of the seaside town’s fine dining scene. This book – their first – represents the accumulation of generations of culinary knowledge by the Khanijou family. Full of staunchly traditional Indian recipes that feature the best of fresh Thai ingredients, the recipes in the fuchsia-coloured hardback represent the family’s unique blend of cultures. Aware that many of the tools and techniques used in a professional kitchen are difficult to replicate in the average home – we assume most of you don’t have a tandoor oven to hand – the instructions have been simplified and altered with the home cook in mind.
THE OVERTURE (HOM RONG) Ittisoontorn Vichailak | 2004 | DVD159 Thailand’s 2004 Oscar submission is a gorgeously shot, highdrama version of the musical biopic. Drawing inspiration (if not all the facts) from the life of ranad-ek (wooden xylophone) master Luang Pradit Phairao, The Overture rattles the staid biopic from the campy tension: training scenarios reminiscent of Rocky, a clattery xylophone duel so intense it sets jowls a-trembling and water rippling in a glass, à la Jurassic Park. The film avoids the routine of most biopics by hopscotching between two eras – its hero’s youthful arrogance and his old-age wisdom, when he stands up to officials intent on “modernising” Thailand right out of its traditions. bangkok101.com
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ART & CULTURE photofeature
Lost in Paradise As Thailand has embraced industrialisation and development, rural workers have flocked to the big city in droves. However, some have been disappointed by what they found. A new exhibition looks at those left behind. By Lek Kiatsirikajorn
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ART & CULTURE photofeature
Lek Kiatsirikajorn set out to photograph landscapes only, sites where the new, industrial Thailand overlaps with the natural environment. These are, if you like, the fringes of the capital. Instead, in the course of taking the photographs that would eventually become Lost In Paradise, Lek found himself getting to know the people in the areas he visited. And so it was that he introduced a human element to his images. “It’s quite difficult to find these places – I had to do quite a lot of location scouting and then finding the right angle to shoot them from,” he says. “At the beginning, I didn’t intend to include the people – I wanted it to be about the landscape. But when I went out to these places on weekends, I started to meet some of these people and became interested in their stories.” Lek found that these people had come from the provinces in search of a better life in Bangkok. “Some of them have been here for a long time, other not as long, maybe a year, and they’re trying to find work,” he says. “Some of the people I had to really talk to for a long time to persuade them to let me photograph them, especially the ones who had been in
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Bangkok longer – they were quite suspicious.” Looking at these images, it’s hard to imagine they would have been as captivating had Lek not incorporated the people. If the series is a study of the way Thailand has changed, it is these workers who have assumed the role of bystanders in that rush headlong into modernity. “I grew up in Thonburi and when I was a kid it was still very green over there,” Lek says. “But there was a big push for Thailand to become more industrialised, to become one of these Tiger economies. I still think that agriculture is the foundation of the country, though, and that’s represented by the people in my photographs. “It’s been 30 years of industrialisation but it didn’t get us very far. We’re still under-developed. A lot of these people from rural areas, from the provinces, came to Bangkok looking for a better life but it wasn’t what they expected.” Lost In Paradise will be showing at Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Pan Rd; 02-234-6700; kathmandu-bkk.com) until April 27
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Lost in Paradise
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ART & CULTURE photofeature
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Lost in Paradise
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ARO Lamb Chops with Thai Wild Basil blue elephant p68
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AROy renovations complete
Crêpes & Co. has finished renovating its premises in Thong Lor (88 Thong Lor Soi 8; 02-726-9398; crepesnco.com) and has now reopened, minus its terrace but now decked out with a modern loft-style atmosphere and comfy sofas. Crêpes & Co. remains a cracking Bangkok success story, after a group of foodie friends put their heads together and came up with a menu of Mediterranean-inspired treats. They pull in a bumper crowd for brunch but there are also plenty of reasons to visit for dinner.
blue elephant
The Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok (33/1 South Sathorn Rd; 02-210-8100; eastingrandsathorn.com) is joining forces with the nearby Blue Elephant Cooking School. From now until the end of September there are packages available for guests to go next door and take a cooking class. For B7,998, guests can stay two nights and enjoy a half-day cooking class for one person. For B10,198, the cooking class is for two people. The perfect opportunity to pick up some Thai cullinary skills during a visit to Bangkok.
chef haugg takes charge
A new executive chef has arrived at The Peninsula Bangkok (333 Charoennakorn Rd; 02-861-2888; peninsula.com/Bangkok) to oversee the hotel’s award-winning restaurants. German chef Andreas Haugg joins the team after filling a similar position at the Four Seasons Hotel Cairo at Nile Plaza, Egypt. His passion for working in exotic locales has taken him to Mauritius and the Maldives. He honed and fine-tuned his world-class chef’s skills in top hotels in Germany, the UK and the US.
welcome to ohmi month
Vertigo (61F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd 02-679-1200; banyantree.com) is already known for its prime cuts of meat but this month they’re stepping it up with a selecion of Ohmi beef. More revered than even Kobe or Matsusaka beef, Ohmi is from the legendary Wagyu breed of cow, known to be among the most pampered cattle in the world – and the most sought after in fine-dining restaurants. A tender flavour-oozing treat for your taste buds, available during March only.
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FOOD & DRIN K
meal deals
THREE-COURSE SIGNATURE DINNER MENU THE CONTINENT HOTEL 413 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-686-7000 | continentdining.com At Medinii, the cuisine is described as authentic Italian Cuisine. Yet keen food connoisseurs might overlook modernity for the well-proven fact that every dish is ingeniously created to present an impressively unique combination of tastes and textures. The three-course dinner is offered at B600 or B800, pairing with wine.
CALLING THE LOBSTER BANGKOK MARRIOTT HOTEL SUKHUMVIT 2 Soi Sukhumvit 57 | 02-797-0000 | marriott.com A three-course lobster menu at the District will spice up your ordinary Tuesday from March 4 to April 8. The delectable lobster menu includes lobster salad, lobster bisque and a choice of main course according to your preference. The District will also launch a new wine list which perfectly will be paired with the delicately designed menu.
NEW ZEALAND LAMB PROMOTION SOFITEL SO BANGKOK 2 North Sathorn Rd | 02-624-0000 | sofitel.com The five-course New Zealand lamb set menu prepared by award-winning executive chef Paul Smart will be offered at Park Society for B2900 throughout this month. Enjoy lamb delicacies such as slow-cooked lamb shank with tom yam risotto with truffle potato gnocchi, shallot puree, baby vegetables and red wine jus. Try the sheep’s milk cheese ice cream for dessert.
BEST OF CRePES & CO. CRePES & CO. 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1 | 02-652-0208 | crepesnco.com It has been 16 years ago since the restaurant opened its door to welcome Mediterranean food lovers. From March 6-31 at both Thong Lor and Langsuan, the best of C&C is offering a special menu featuring some of the most popular dishes. The highlights include Greek lamb stew (B475), paella Valenciana (B490) and Tajine fish (B450).
AUSTRALIAN LAMB PROMOTION CENTARA WATERGATE PAVILLION HOTEL BANGKOK 567 Ratchaprarop Rd | 02-625-1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com Delight yourself with the finest Australian lamb prepared to perfection by chef John Ranaudo and his professional team at Café 9. A selection of fine Asian and western dishes such as stews, stirfried, grilled and pan-fried will highlight the flavours of Australian lamb for an unforgettable dining experience. The price starts at B870.
BUSINESS LUNCH AT SCALINI HILTON SUKHUMVIT BANGKOK 24 Sukhumvit Road | 02 620 6666 | hilton.com Traditional Italian-American favourites are delicately prepared by a team of skillful chefs at Scalini. Enjoy your lunch with colleagues and business associates at the restaurant, which will provide a private atmosphere with mouth-watering dishes. The two-course lunch set starts at B575 while three-course menu starts at B650, available daily from noon to 2pm.
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review
FOOD & DRIN K
taihei
- Sky-high Japanese The Banyan Tree hotel is among Bangkok’s most luxurious, renowned for its sweeping views, plush spa facilities and, of course, its fine dining outlets. There’s Vertigo up on the top floor, upmarket Thai at Saffron, Chinese at Bai Yun and Mediterranean at Romsai. With so many options, diners are spoiled for choice. That said, it’s hard to imagine anyone regretting their decision to head to Taihei, the Banyan Tree’s Japanese restaurant, way up on the 53rd floor. It’s a fairly compact space but the views are spectacular and Taihei certainly knows how to capitalise on its prime real estate with wraparound windows. As with the best Japanese restaurants, the emphasis is on elegance without tipping over into gauche showiness. That can be found in the clean, understated decor and, most importantly, in the food, where freshness and technique are clearly priorities. From the moment the platter of sashimi moriawase (B520; left, second-bottom) comes out, prime seafood cuts delicately arranged, it’s clear that there is a real commitment to quality. The presentation is also immaculate, offering a swathe of bright colours – bright pinks and flashes of silver-grey. It’s beautiful food. And it tastes pretty damn fine as well, the tuna, bangkok101.com
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in particular, soft and slightly salty on its own, mild enough to work in the mouth alongside a dab of soy and wasabi. Another highlight is the beef teriyaki (B580; main image), sourced from Australia and broiled, before coming out served with seasonal greens, again bursting with colour. Teriyaki is one of the most familiar Asian seasonings but here there is a subtlety to it that never overpowers, while still providing that sweetness that dances on the tip of your tongue. If you’re not super-keen to fill up on red meat, try the gindara miso (B600; left, second top). It’s a cod fish cooked to perfection, kissed on each side just long enough to turn the skin crispy, before being served with tangy miso seasoning. There’s also a selection of tempura to choose from, whether you fancy prawns (B450), pork skewers (B380) or chicken karage (B350). And make sure you wash it all down with one of Taihei’s fine bottles of sake – or maybe just a glass if it’s lunchtime. BY TOM STURROCK
taihei
[MAP 5/l8]
53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm
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review
kuppadeli - Delicious all day All-day dining can be hit and miss – if kitchens need to be able to deliver at any hour, the tendency can sometimes be there to pre-prepare, to skimp on freshness and instead gear a kitchen to be able to churn out dishes on command. Kuppadeli, instead, winnows its menu down to a handful of well-executed essentials, maintaining a strikingly high standard across breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s more upscale cafe than fully fledged restaurant – that’s not a criticism, more a remark on the casual atmosphere and coffee bar that sits square in the middle of it all. Unsurprisingly, it does a bustling trade on weekends, as brunchers head to its Asoke location in droves. The eggs Benedict (B295) is one of the real highlights for that mid-morning snack, served with spinach and prosciutto, topped with hollandaise sauce on a toasted ciabatta. There’s the richness of the sauce, leavened by light side servings and delicious, crusty bread – all the more satisfying for its rarity in Bangkok. If you’re settling in for a more substantial meal, the yam moo yang (B180; right) is a spicy pork salad with some real kick. The strips of pork themselves are juicy and tender but there’s plenty of chilli for those needing a shot of spice to wake them up. It packs quite a punch and goes well washed down with a dry beer. There’s a more low-key approach with the chicken and avocado sandwich (B240), although it’s still artfully assembled 64 | M A RCH 2014
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and presented in a way that won’t fall apart when you try to pick it up and eat it. Along with the chicken and avacado, there’s also pesto and oven-dried tomato padding it out and providing some texture. Equally, the salt and pepper squid (B200) is great for sharing, crusty on the outside but fresh on the inside; perfect for smothering liberally in tartare sauce. The signature dish, though, may well be Kuppadeli’s fairly epic Wagyu Cop-The-Lot Burger (B450; main image), a formidable combination of Wagyu beef patty with ratatouille, fried egg, bacon, cheese and lettuce on a lightly toasted bun. Again, it sticks together well enough that you can eat it by hand, rather than using namby-pamby cutlery and although the ingredients work well individually and together, they never mask the inmistakeable taste of high-quality beef. Definitely a burger worth going back for. BY TOM STURROCK
kuppadeli
[MAP 3/g6]
219/1A The Pride, Asoke Towers, Sukhumvit 21 02-664-2350 | kuppadeli.com | 7am-9pm
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CUISINE ART
WHITE: GALANGAL Paying homage to the herbal medicine doctor, the original owner of the house, Ruen Urai's third Thai gourmet journey explores colourful herbs and spices and their healing properties. Galangal comes in a whole rhizome, cut or powdered. In its raw form, it has a stronger taste than ginger. The whole fresh rhizome is very hard so slicing it requires a sharp knife. A mixture of galangal and lime juice is used as a tonic in parts of Southeast Asia. Being stimulant and carminative, it is especially useful in indigestion, inflammation and blood circulation. For helping curb nausea, its powder can be used as snuff and its oil in perfumery. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel: 66 (0) 2266-8268-72 Fax: 66 (0) 2266-8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com
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review
57th street - Street food with style Buffets rarely manage to impress by doing something different – by surprising. Rather, part of their appeal probably lies in the fact people know what they’re getting. Every hotel in Bangkok seems to offer a buffet at their flagship restaurant and, by and large, they hew roughly to the same formula of well-executed bits and bobs, staples from different cuisines laid out for grazing. There’s nothing wrong with them but they feel somehow out of step in Bangkok, one of the most vibrant cities in the world to dine out. The good news, then, is that 57th Street at the Marriott in Thong Lor raises the bar, offering an a la carte menu as well as a buffet that is not only superior in the bread and butter but also offers a regular Thai promotion that takes the best of Thai street food and adapts it for the more rarefied surroundings. Even the space is a cut above – it feels like a fine dining restaurant, long and sleek and high-ceilinged with eye-catching light fittings. They also wheel in a Thai street cart to dole out the noodles, adding an extra lick of authenticity. They’ve also put some work into their cocktail menu (all B300) – try the Espresso Martini if you need a shot in the arm, with its mixture of vodka, vanilla, vermouth and espresso, the Blood & Sand for something stiffer, a combination of whiskey, sweet vermouth, cherry brandy and orange juice. The a la carte menu balances the Thai staples with western fare – there’s a beef massaman (B310), mildly spiced with 66 | M A RCH 2014
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potato and crushed peantus. Or the choo chee goong (B550) – tiger prawns served with dry red curry and kaffir lime leaves. There’s some real spice here and the scent of curry and lime wafts off the prawns as they’re ladled out over rice. There’s also a smashing beef burger (B350) that comes with bacon and onion relish and well as some seriously chunky chips. But the buffet may be what keeps people coming back and its easy to see why when confronted with the plates of delicately made starters and then vibrantly coloured main dishes. There’s the intensity of flavours that make Thai food great, bound in the quality and attention to detail found in more upscale restaurants. And stick around for dessert – they’ve got an entire room devoted to sweets and the sticky rice pudding is sublime. BY TOM STURROCK
57th street
[MAP 3/s10]
Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 02-797-0000 | marriott.com | 6am-11pm
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review
blue elephant - Looking back, looking forward The Blue Elephant brand has been wildly successful since it was first established in 1980, introducing Thai food to the world through restaurants dotted all over the place, including those in London, Paris and Dubai. And, of course, there’s one in Bangkok, just under Surasak BTS in a gorgeous old-fashioned Thai building. When you take in the traditional interior, it’s no surprise that Blue Elephant’s food is most confidently presented when they are hewing toward cuisine that, as categorised on their menu, derives from “Thai cooking of the past”. The massaman lamb (B580) is immaculately presented with a sweet, fragrant sauce, while the tom jiew kai (B240) has all the restorative powers of chicken soup, with a delciously peppery aftertaste added for good measure. However, Blue Elephant is not content to let the grass grow under them and that’s why, perhaps sensing that Thai food has increasingly been adapted into a more modern, international cuisine, there is also a section of the menu for Thai food “of today” and “of tomorrow”. There are undoutbedly some interesting combinations, as Blue Elephant expands its playbook beyond the more familiar staples. There’s the grilled spare ribs with honey (B380) and a black chicken green curry (B680), using rare black chicken in coconut milk, with sweet basil and pea aubergines. For those interested in trying buffalo, there’s also a starter-sized satay set of Buffalo fillets from Ubon Ratchatanee (B320). They’re all 68 | M A RCH 2014
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well-executed and made with a rigorous sense of authenticity and expertise when it comes to how to make the most of familiar Thai ingredients and combinations. But, given the explosion of modern Thai cuisine – throughout Bangkok and beyond – the increasingly adventurous ‘cooking of the future’ part of the menu is more likely to provide highlights for diners hoping to be surprised. The tamarind duck (B480), for example, is one of the real highlights, taking a marinated breast and saucing it with golden tamarind from Petchaboon and serving with shallots and crispy kale. For anyone interested in Asian duck dishes, this one is a must. Branching out even further, the lamb chops with Thai basil uses a rack of New Zealand lamb (B850) and giving it a seriously spicy makeover. BY TOM STURROCK
blue elephant Restaurant & Cooking School [MAP 5/d7] 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 ext 8 blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm
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FOOD & DRIN K
s.pellegrino recommends
1881 by water library - Comfort, style and panache The Water Library has already carved out a niche for itself with its flagship premises in Thong Lor and Chamchuri – venues that have become stand-out examples of Bangkok’s increasingly sophisticated bar scene, where innovative cocktails sit comfortably alongside some truly exciting food. The brains behind these late-night hotspots have recently opened a new venue, 1881 at Groove in CentralWorld, and, although they have brought the commitment to quality and originality with them, there’s a far more laid-back atmosphere. An L-shaped bar is perfect for groups while diners can take it easy on the bench seats running along the inside of the front wall. There is still a refined design aesthetic that is a hallmark of the other Water Library places but with a more rustic, informal appeal. This, according to general manager Oliver Kramny, is entirely deliberate. “Most people know the other Water Library places as a little bit high-end and fine-dining,” he says. “We’re happy with what we’re doing there but we want to take the essence of that and put it in a more casual environment. We have a nice bar with good drink and food, add to that great entertainment with live music and DJs. We want a place where people can hang out and take it easy.” At Groove, 1881 is nestled in between House of Beers and Wine I Love You. Kramny believes that once Groove has had time to gain greater recognition, it will become a favourite haunt for the city’s movers and shakers. “Groove is a nice collection of very successful, well-done F&B brands – different places that complement each other quite well,” he says. “I really believe this place will become a hot spot – not only for Thais but also for people visiting Bangkok.” The success of the Water Library in Thong Lor owes partly to the inspired cocktail creations of Mirko Gardelliano, whose concoctions marry the classic with the completely off-the-wall. At 1881, his greatest hits appear on a pared-down menu. There’s the Wow… Guava (B280), which combines a homemade guava-infused Beefeater gin, which aphrodisiac bitters, lime juice and fresh guava. The result is refreshing but with plenty of kick. Or try the Kai Sexy Lychee (B320), with lychee vodka, chilli-infused vodka, fresh lime sugar cane, orange juice and more aphrodisiac bitter. It’s fruity and a little bit sweet but with a spicy undertone. The most popular places in Bangkok are increasingly venues that offer a complete package and, to that end, plenty of consideration has gone into the food at 1881. There’s a selection of tapas-style nibbles, like the delicious Siam chicken praline with Thai spices and tomato salsa (B150), served on 7 0 | A UGUST 2 0 1 3
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skewers mounted on a dark wood platter. But even the larger dishes seem to be intended for sharing. It’s all part of the plan, according to chef Urs Lustenberger (pictured), who has set out to create a menu bursting with satisfying, uncomplicated dishes without sacrificing quality of product. “It’s a bar so we’ve got some sharing plates in there,” he says. “It’s part classic, part homemade, but also hopefully a little bit different.” Take, for example, the double duck mesclun (B270) – a salad of smoked duck breast with duck egg, mesclun leaves, black olive crumble and soy citrus dressing. “I wanted to make a salad that tastes good but is a bit different,” Lustenberger says. “So it’s like a classic French salad but I also wanted to do something with duck and I love a bit of crunch in there as well. I was thinking about this Chinese recipe that uses black olives and I’d never heard of it before. So I decided to try a black olive crumble.” Lustenberger is Swiss, so there is without doubt a modern European bent to some of his dishes. For example, the pizzocheri (B250), which is basically Swiss-style dumpling with cabbage, creamy cheese sauce and breadcrumbs. “We make it all fresh,” he says. “We sautee the cabbage and make a creamy cheese sauce. “Not too cheesy because I want to keep the texture of the dumplings. Then we put it in the oven with deep-fried onions.” More familiar is the crispy coq au vin (B390) – a chicken leg with red wine reduction, bacon, onion, carrot and potato espuma. Or, in line with 1881’s embrace of delicious simplicity, the steak and fries (B790) – a top-drawer piece of Wagyu beef flank served with hand-cut chips and salsa verde. There’s currently a selection of set lunches on offer (B390 for two courses; B450 for three courses) 11.30pm-2pm. On top of this venue, Water Library is expanding into Myanmar, and, according to Kramny, there’s more to come in Bangkok this year. “We have two more upcoming openings,” he says. “We plan to open a classic French brasserie at Central Embassy and then after that, another location at the Empire building Sathorn.” If the successful expansion at Groove is any indication, these new places are sure to make a splash as well.
1881 by water library
[MAP 4/g4]
Groove at CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd | 02-252-6451 waterlibrary.com | 11am-1am
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s.pellegrino recommends
FOOD & DRIN K
TO ENHANCE GREAT FOODS CHOOSE THE FINE DINING WATERS ACQUA PANNA AND S. PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS.
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in the kitchen
JEREMY TOURRET talks to Howard Richardson
“When I first came to Bangkok, I was French, French, French,” says Jeremy Tourret, explaining his approach to cooking. “Now my cuisine is Western style, but with new spices, herbs and flavours.” The 31 year-old from suburban Paris is standing over the stoves in one of those open kitchens with a generous island workspace envied by domestic cooks. One that Jeremy describes as “small”. He’s showing me how to prepare a dish from the L’Appart menu – steamed snow fish, king crab, black ink risotto and tom kha beurre blanc. As he talks, he adds the classic tom kha flavourings – kaffir lime, galangal, shallots – to infuse in coconut milk, hammering lemongrass with the flat of a knife and slicing “to bring out the flavours”. He throws the pan on a low heat to simmer, then starts the risotto, pouring oil and chopped red onions into a small sauté pan. And sprinkling on salt to draw out the juice, “so the onions don’t brown – I don’t want the colour”. The rice goes in, and as it cooks Jeremy adds alternately chicken stock and squid ink, a few small ladles at a time so it doesn’t overcook. “You want the rice to fatten as it absorbs the liquid,” he says. “It’s important to stir only gently, because you don’t want to break the surface of the grains.” He wafts steam from the infusion towards his nose to test the aroma and decides the time is good to strain the coconut milk. He adds cream for body and a little fat: “Otherwise the liquid is too watery and the beurre blanc may separate.” 72 | M A RCH 2014
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It goes back on the stove to reduce, before butter is added. As the butter melts, Jeremy places the thick snowfish steak to steam over water infused with more tom kha herbs and later adds a finger of pink crab meat. Finishing the risotto, he mixes in a little parmesan and butter: “Not mascarpone, it’s too rich with the beurre blanc.” To serve, he pours the beurre blanc into the plate-well and spoons glistening inky grains of risotto into the centre as a bed for the block of white fish, the pink crab, and beads of black smoked herring roe. Squeezy bottle garnishes go round the side and it’s brightened with lemon foam and slivers of lemon peel confited for 10 hours. Sitting eating in the restaurant, which is modelled on a posh Parisian apartment, the rich beurre blanc enhances the coconut of tom kha. The pair harmonise against the salty smoke of the fish roe and the merest hints of acidity from lemongrass and kaffir lime. The soft flakey fish contrasts with the bite of risotto. It’s a clever balance of east and west; a delicate, elegant dish, gentle in its contrast of colours, textures and flavours. And it makes a conversation piece as interesting as the little oddities and objets d’art scattered around the room.
l’appart
[MAP 3/g9]
32F Hotel Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd 02-126-9999 | sofitel.com | 7pm-10.30pm (bar until 1am)
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street eats
ealtike
Nym
I
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
seafood bbq in thong lor
t’s clear that you can eat any kind of food on the streets of Bangkok and going to eat seafood in China Town is fun and exciting. But thankfully Thais don’t need to trek across the city to that famous neighborhood for delicious seafood if they are on the other side. One of the hottest neighbourhoods among Thais and non-Thais who live in Bangkok is Soi Thonglor or Sukhumwit 55 where there’s plenty of bar-hopping action taking place and it’s already famous for its nighttime dining scene. Recently, I crossed the city to meet up with friends for seafood on the street. Walking just a little beyond Soi 55 but still before Soi 57, you will come across the tantalising smell of seafood BBQ filling the air. When Talay Pao 57 (Seafood BBQ 57) is ready for action, the charcoals are red hot and ready to grill anything. From 100 metres away I can smell the shrimp shells charring and my mouth begins to water. As soon as I get a seat I order those grilled shrimps and a spicy oyster salad. The best part of this place is the quality of the seafood, from Mahachai, along with their spicy seafood sauces. There are colours – red is the spiciest while the green sauce has a little sweetness as well. But once I get the super-fresh seafood, nothing else is needed to enhance the taste. The sweetness comes
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from the shrimp meat after I peel off the shells. You can tell they’re fresh because the orange and red colours from the shells stays on the meat. The little secret of cooking these BBQ shrimps is butter. They apply butter on the shells while grilling to attract the flames and soak up the special aroma of the seafood. The other recommended dish is the spicy oyster salad. It’s a mixture of raw oyster, nam prik pao (roasted curry paste), krathin leaves and deep-fried shallots, seasoned with a little lime on the top.
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listings
Bo.Lan
THAI bo.lan [MAP 3/o12] 42 Sukhumvit 26 Soi Pichai Ronnarong Songkram | 02-260-2962 | bolan.co.th Tues-Sun 6pm-10.30pm The Bo.Lan Balance menu (B1880) offers customers a selection of mid-sized dishes, beginning with an impressive amuse bouche that includes a particularly satisfying mouthful of Thai noddles with dumplings, where a slow-burn spice silhouettes a refreshing zest and the delicate presentation does not detract from intense flavours. The main selection of dishes comes out in a flurry – there’s beef with organic mangosteen and a chilli-mint dressing, relish of salty duck egg in coconut cream, with mince prawn and grilled squid, as well as a stir-fried pork with santol. It’s highquality produce and the attention to detail throughout is striking, although the bolder notes of chilli and lime risk overshadowing more subtle undertones. The highlight, among the dishes served on the tasting menu, is the mon-style khi lek curry with daily ocean fish. Khi lek leaves are bitter but when combined with the sweetness of coconut milk and the mild spice of a curry, there’s a brilliant complexity
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that still leaves room for the natural seafood taste. There’s more than enough going on in this dish to sustain it over a much larger portion, making it the stand-out offering from the tasting menu. If you want to stray from the set menu and branch off a la carte, the grilled pork salad with rambutan, herbs and red chilli (B420) is a winner, as is the northern-style hot and sour soup with banaa blossom and chicken on the bone (B240).
PASTE [MAP 3/P6] 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 02-392-4313 | pastebangkok.com | Tues-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6pm-late It’s possible for passersby to miss this new addition to Bangkok’s cosmopolitan dining scene, tucked to one side of soi 49 in the backstreets of Thong Lor. But if the entrance is easily overlooked, the modern Thai food inside is unlikely to be forgotten. For entrees, the dry-spiced chilli squid, topped with vinegar and tomato relish (B240) is a winner. Among the mains, the prime cuts of Australian red meat stand out invitingly from the local produce – the braised beef ribs with ginger rice, tamarind leaves and mushroom soy (B380) are perfect if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The roast duck salad with lychee and Vietnamese mint (B380) packs an immediate punch but it is the hint of banana blossom that delivers a surprising, sensational finish. And then there is the tamarind and caramel pork belly with moonflower, red okra and green chilli pickle (400). It’s an inspired combination, the pork belly coming apart effortlessly while its outer layer retains a rainbow of flavours, its richness lightened
Paste perfectly by the moonflower and okra. Overall, Paste is a triumph, fusing tradition and innovation with a confidence and craft that never veers into showiness. Good food is often described as “tasty” or “delicious” but these descriptions are fleeting – the best meals go a step further and stay with us long after the plates are cleared. And, on that score, Paste delivers with exceptional panache, serving food that is not just instantly gratifying but truly memorable.
sala rattanakosin bangkok [MAP 7/c12]
39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island 02-231-2588 | salarattanakosin.com 7am-10pm With vistas not only across the river to Wat Arun but also towards the spires of Wat Pho and the Grand Palace, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. Later, head down to the two-storey restaurant, and, if possible, grab a window table upstairs or beside the river on the wooden deck outside. Executive Chef Tony Wrigley describes his menu as comfort food and that pretty much fits the bill. Typical Thai dishes include tempura fried soft shell crab (B290), with a good strong zip of sour and spice in green
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listings Bourbon Street
mango salad that cuts through the crispy batter, and the northern Thai favourite khao soy (B280). The latter, served as a main course, has a thicker, more curry-like consistency than usual and the complexity loses out slightly to the more dominant palm sugar in a heavily reduced sauce. The menu has fewer Euro items but there were good flavours to the twice-cooked crispy pork belly (B590). It’s roasted for three hours and then finished in the oven for 20 minutes with a tamarind glaze. On the side are roast pumpkin puree, apple and young ginger marmalade, and stir-fried morning glory, which works very well cooked in typical local style, flash-fried with oyster sauce, garlic and chilli.
up in a giant gumbo pot with Creole – itself a mixture of European and African-American influences - and infused with the brassy flavours of the American south. For the uninitiated, it’s a baffling cuisine, partly because it hasn’t been exported wholesale from Louisiana to the rest of the world. That said, washed down with a couple of particularly zingy margaritas at Bourbon Street in Ekkamai, it starts to make a whole lot of sense. The menu is vast, so fortunately the proprietor, Doug, who has been preaching the Cajun gospel in Bangkok for 30-odd years, is on-hand to offer his recommendations. No Cajun banquet is complete without a gumbo, which, on first appearance, looks like a simple working man’s stew - in Cajun cuisine, gumbo is a versatile dish that can contain more or less whatever the chef fancies. Here, it’s chicken and sausage (B140) in a rich broth – whatever spices or thickeners are being expertly employed at Bourbon Street, the flavour jumps off the spoon. An early highlight, undoubtedly. But they come thick and fast thereafter.
BURGER FACTORY [MAP 3/t2]
AMERICAN BOURBON STREET [MAP 8/S16] 9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekamai | 02-381-6801 | bourbonstbkk.com 7am-1am New Orleans, the Big Easy, is famed for many things – its music, its nightlife and, of course, its distinctive Cajun food. There are bits and pieces borrowed from western Europe, particularly France and Spain, mixed
3 Soi Ekkamai 10 | 02-714-4249 | facebook. com/theburgerfactory | Sun-Thurs 11:30am11pm, Fri-Sat 11:30am-midnight Stylishly wrought in black metal, the Burger Factory seems to owe more to the ironsmith’s atelier than your typical American-style diner. Not that that’s a bad thing – unlike your typical American-style diner this joint located in the corner of a hip but low-key strip mall on Ekamai Soi 10 looks every inch the after-work hangout, like a
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Burger Factory
stylish gastro-bar. Thanks to the floor-toceiling windows the space is bright, and there’s a small outdoor terrace. So, how do they go down? We chomped on three from the list of eleven burgers, all of them cooked medium, as is the default here. The first, the Patty Melt (B300), was compact and handsome, with a generous layer of caramelised onions and melted gruyere and Gouda cheeses. The second, the Red Devil Burger (B300), was heftier and messier due to its extras: an omelet and thick layer of spicy sauce. Both hit the spot (thankfully, the latter didn’t live up to the menu’s “the most spicy burger on earth” claim); but for us it was the least fancy of the three, the Factory Burger (B290), that impressed the most. Sinking your teeth into this trim bacon cheeseburger, you could taste the homemade-ness, as the patty flaked in the mouth, releasing a succulent burst of flame-grilled flavour. Accompanying it were some squiggly, seasoned curly fries (other options: French fries or homemade potato salad), and washing it down was a vanilla milkshake – a tasty one, albeit lacking the thick, creamy texture we’re used to. Should you want more, there are also grilled meats, tasty BBQ ribs (B300) and a couple of house salads available.
49 Sukhumvit soi 49 - Terrace 49 Building 2nd floor - reservation +6622041731
LA
OTTEGA
private wine room - open lunch and dinner bangkok101.com
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www.labottega.name
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listings
Mandopop
CHINESE mandopop [MAP 4/k6] Oriental Residence Bangkok, 110 Wireless Rd | 02-252-8001 | mandopop-bangkok.com 5pm-midnight The steamed scallop dumplings (B160) come wrapped in the thinnest wonton, one side tinted purple with beetroot and the other green with spinach. It’s a dish with very little margin for error – eating it is also a test of one’s chopsticks skills – but the crucial scallop flavour is never overwhelmed by the seasoning. The pan-seared foie gras served with crispy duck skin (B450) is perhaps even more ambitious, served on a bed of curd and cress with a drizzle of sweet chilli and mango dressing (above right). It’s a perfect balance of flavours and textures, the velvety richness of the foie gras offset perfectly by the crunch of the duck skin, mixed in with the spice and joyous zing of the dressing. An absolute triumph. This brings us to the mains – often the stumbling block for restaurants pushing a modern concept. The tenderloin beef in black pepper sauce (B550) is well-executed in its own right – the meat is tender and gives off exactly the right tangy bite that customers expect from this dish. However, after the foie gras, the presentation falls short, the beef served more or less on its own, or with rice. Given the exquisite, elegant presentation of other dishes, this is surprisingly plain. There’s a spectacular return to form for the desserts, though. The yam paste with coconut cream and white gingko nuts (B150) mixes savoury sweet to winning effect, while the chilled mango pudding (B180) delivers a sensationally clean, fruity encore.
the mayflower [MAP 8/k16] Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 02-200-9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm At The Mayflower, the flagship Cantonese restaurant at the Dusit Thani Bangkok, authenticity is the name of the game and the results are delicious. You’ve probably seen the liquid-centred buns with salted egg in the 76 | M A RCH 2014
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centre in various places around Bangkok – even, gasp, in 7-11 and other convenience stores. Of course, there’s none of that at The Mayflower, their gourmet version making a perfect starter (fried or steamed for B150). But the really impressive courses are to come and, although dim sum serving sizes tend to be on the smaller side, the menu at The Mayflower is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-of-war over the Lazy Susan. The minced shrimp roll comes out wrapped in nori, and topped with ikura, which is salmon roe (B180). But it’s quickly overshadowed by the one-two punch of steamed snowfish with miso sauce (B180) and the crispy scallop, shrimp and crab roll wrapped in seaweed (B150). The popularity of snowfish seems to have skyrocketed in recent years and it is a natural fit for Asian flavours – it retains its light taste and texture while also offsetting more potent seasonings. The scallop, shrimp and crab, on the other hand, is an indulgence for seafood fans, three dishes using seriously high-end produce squeezed together. If you’re still hungry after that, the abalone wonton steamed and served with traditional dipping sauces (B300) is stunning..
FRENCH chez pape [MAP 3/f9] 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 02-255-2492 | chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed but that’s not to say Chez Pape feels routine. Rather, there are enough surprises, both in terms of the combinations and the presentation to elevate Chez Pape’s food to something more impressive. Starting with the appetisers, there is a ceviche of barracuda in chilli and citrus (B160) or the tartare of avocado, crab and green apple (above right, B200), both hitting the right notes: light, fresh, seafood flavours offset with the right amount of seasonings. But perhaps it’s in the more provincial dishes that Chez Pape declares its hand, offering a port-marinated foie gras terrine, served with toast and mango marmalade (B285). The early courses are certainly impressive enough to build expectation for the mains without being so concept-heavy that they create confusion. The pan-seared beef flank, an exquisite cut of meat, comes with
Gaggan
goat-cheese ravioli and garnished with virgin sauce (B450) – it’s a deeply satisfying combination. Twisting the formula a little further is the duck breast served with apples, spinach and Japanese citrus dressing (B510). It’s a fine example of Chez’s Pape’s commitment to doing the inimitably French things well while borrowing and augmenting with inspired touches from elsewhere. It may sound like a challenge but leave room for dessert as the poached strawberries in syrup and ice cream (B230), although they sound straightforward, are a highlight.
indian gaggan [MAP 8/l14] 68/1 Soi Langsuan | 02-652-1700 eatatgaggan.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11.30pm Indian cuisine, perhaps more than any other, has been pigeonholed, locked into a narrow idea of heavy curries and spicy tandooris. It’s an inadequate concept, of course, and Gaggan Anand, through his stunningly unique restaurant in Langsuan, makes one of the most urgent cases for these definitions to be reconsidered. It’s ‘progressive cuisine’ anchored in Indian flavours but these lines gets blurred pretty quickly once you’re through the culinary wormhole. The reality is that, at Gaggan, flavours can be drawn from anywhere – as long as they work, there’s little formal structure about what’s allowed to go together. Perhaps the most interesting way to experience Gaggan’s always delicious, often offbeat repertoire is through one of the tasting menus (B1600, B2600 or B4000). One of the more surprising combinations comes out relatively early – it’s called Viagra, freshly shucked French oysters served with kokam nectar and Indian mustard ice cream, and somehow works despite ingredients that don’t intuitively go together. The Egyptian Secret uses foie gras, red onion chutney and raspberry powder to equally stunning effect, the flavours so bangkok101.com
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listings
FOOD & DRIN K
rang mahal [MAP 3/k11]
Indus well-judged that your taste buds are pulled in different directions in one mouthful. There’s the truffle mousse with a pepper infusion and king prawns with fennel Kachumber and charcoal oil. For those who just want a damn fine curry, Gaggan has that covered as well. The apparently simple Who You Calling Chicken (B390) in fact has outstandingly refined flavour and a heart-starting pepper aftertaste.
indus [MAP 3/p12] 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | 02-258-4900 indusbangkok.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm Indian restaurants sometimes run the risk of being slightly same-same – from the decor to the flavours, there seems to be a formula that works and plenty of places are happy to march to the same tune. The most gratifying thing about Indus is that it makes certain well-judged departures – there’s a decidedly modern, well-lit interior with sweeping views of their garden dining area, as well as a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect from Indian food while dialling down the stodge and oiliness that sometimes accompany it. Furthermore, most Indian restaurants hew rigidly to northern-style food and although those notes are present in most of Indus’s curries, they all riff more broadly on IndianChinese – or Himalayan – combinations. All in all, it’s quite an ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine. Still, it begins traditionally enough, with a tandoori platter, including a creamy broccoli (B190), chicken in yoghurt and Shahi Jeera (B320) and tiger prawns in Kashmiri chilli paste, garlic, ginger and coriander. It all comes out with that slightly charred goodness that is the hallmark of Tandoori, with that smokey goodness that, done well, heightens rather than overwhelms the other flavours. Among the curries, the old favourites are also the stand-outs. If there’s a signature dish, though, it’s the raan. It’s part of an inspired selection of kebabs and requires 24 hours’ advance notice. bangkok101.com
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26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 02-261-7100 | rembrandtbkk.com 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The name means ‘palace of colours’ and there is definitely a courtly air about it all, down to the traditional Indian band whose lilting music fills the air. Equally, while Indian cuisine routinely delivers powerful flavours, the refined, almost delicate food served at Rang Mahal is a rarity. Among the appetisers, the papri chaat (B175) and Punjabi samosa (B190) are relatively straightforward but the well-judged lightness and the fact the doughiness is not overdone mean these bite-sized dishes whet the appetite. Proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs come out. The tandoori prawn (B295 per piece, main) is smoked to perfection in Indian spices, while the murgh malai (B425) combines chicken and cream cheese for an extra kick. The house specialty, though, is the raan-e-khyber (B950 for half, B1595 for whole) – a leg of lamb marinated in rum, herbs and spices before being barbecued. It’s an impressive dish, rustic in appearance but perfectly executed, the chunks of lamb peeling effortlessly from the bone, sweet and smokey at the same time. The curries are equally successful in delivering a heightened version of familiar dishes. The Goan fish curry (B495) combines a lightly sautéed fish seasoned with a fragrant mix of onions, garlic and spices, cooked in a sauce of tomatoes and coconut gravy, the flavours deftly balanced against each other. In the kashmiri rogan josh (B525, top left), the mutton is irresistibly tender, more casserole than curry, a spectacular rendition of one of the most familiar staples.
INTERNATIONAL cellar 11 wine bar & bistro [MAP 3/f7]
71/1 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255-5833 cellar11.com | 6pm-midnight The menu is essentially European, drawing mostly from French and Italian, neither entirely traditional nor rushing headlong into new-fangled techniques for the sake of it. For example, the scallop cappuccino (B580) comes with morel, champignon and porcini mushrooms. There’s a trend to increasingly match scallops with lighter flavours, sometimes sweeter or citrus-based, but the seasoning here is a reassuring return to a warmer, earthier mix. Conversely, the M A RCH 2014 | 7 7
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listings
Cellar 11 Toulouse foie gras (B620) is dressed with a choice of peach, raspberry or porto sauce. But it’s even more traditional fare that really impresses – the onion soup (B260) is one of the most familiar staples of any French kitchen but it is elevated here by the addition of chicken stock to add texture and a layer of gruyere cheese to add bite. Belying its simply presentation, the taste is exquisite. Similarly, the angel hair sea urchin pasta (B950) is straightforward enough but the taste of fresh sea urchin is one of the most memorable. It’s this low-key attenion to detail that emerges as the hallmark of Cellar 11’s food and it’s evident again in the duck confit (B690) that comes with crushed truffle in a pool of glorious honey thyme sauce. And the rack of Australian lamb (B990) is equally impressive, crusted with herbs and served with dauphinoise and a garlic rosemary sauce that lingers on the tongue.
CREPES & Co. [Map 8/L14] 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) 02-652-0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious.
The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options – try the eggplant caviar – but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal after-dinner following. You can keep it simple by going for the Crepe Josephine (B170), which is a straightforward combination of sugar and lemon zest. But if you’ve got a major sweet tooth, you’ll likely move on to the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging with vanilla ice cream and lathered in rich, tangy raspberry sauce. These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you have a real craving. Going down the list reveals some eye-popping desserts – try the Crepe Mango Coconut (B195), which somehow works despite the unusual pairing of fresh mango and coconut slices, or the Coupe de Fraises (B170), with strawberry, vanilla and chantilly. The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B290), which comes out rinsed in apple liqueur and filled with sautee apple and rum raisin ice cream.
Quince [MAP 3/P10] Sukhumvit Soi 45 | 02-662-4478 | quincebangkok.com | 11.30am-late New Quince chef Wilfrid Hocquet has worked with Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud and the Pourcel brothers, while his last gig – the countrified, Michelin-starred La Bastide de Moustiers – chimes with the concept at his new Bangkok home. He serves straightahead food: farmhouse presentation, not too many flavours, focusing on good
Quince product and letting it fly. To the delight of traditionalists, this is unmistakably dinner on a plate. They have a new supplier near Pattaya for these meats and now work with Bill Marinelli, of the Oyster Bar to bring line-caught fish from Indonesia. Not local, but sustainable. It’s also, by its nature, unpredictable, so you may get coral trout, sea bream, white sea bass, all depending on the catch. It arrives on Thursdays, so good days to visit are Friday to Sunday. The fish goes on the specials menu, alongside the new a la carte that Wilfrid launches fully this month. Look out for a bunch of fresh salads such as blueberry beetroot with feta cheese and rocket and substantial mains like roast chicken tagine-style with lemon. Beautiful Kurobuta pork, cooked sous vide and served with its own jus (B1500 for a sharing portion), is sourced in Prachinburi and also used in deliciously moist, slightly peppery pork terrine (B280). But there’s so much more to Quince than just the food. It has a buzzy, pub-like atmosphere, a generous-sized bar, unvarnished floorboards and chunky wooden tables that feel as conducive to quaffing beers as the arty cocktails developed by ‘mixsultant’ Joseph Boroski.
THAILAND TATLER
BEST
RESTAU RANTS
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listings DiVino
ITALIAN divino [MAP 3/r6] Penny’s Balcony, Thong Lor Soi 16 02-714-8723 | divinobkk.com 5pm-midnight, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm It’s a curious little set-up, the restaurant split between three rooms that share one corner of Penny’s Corner up in Thong Lor. One section is for private dining, another is filled with stools and high tables, while the newish wine room is a sit-down affair, the walls lined with bottles of gorgeous Italian vino. To get the balling rolling, DiVino offers a selection of cheese (B790 for six different pieces) or imported cold cuts (B700 for the most generous serving). As appetisers, they do precisely what they’re meant to, getting the stomach gurgling away in anticipation for what’s to follow. So there’s enough variety there to keep customers happy if they just fancy a bottle of wine over a few shared platters but the main courses raise the stakes in a way that fancier, more concept-heavy places don’t always manage. It’s hard to recall pasta being this exciting. The linguine with Alaskan crab meat (B420) is a lighter affair – let’s not go too far and call it delicate -– while the linguine all’astice (B580) is their signature dish containing half a Boston lobster, dripping in one of those bolshy Italian sauces that looks simple but isn’t. Among the prime cuts of meat, the Australian beef tenderloin with a porcini mushroom sauce (B850) is impressive enough but DiVino’s lamb (B640 for a loin, B850 for a whole rack) is the winner, due mostly to a remarkable herb crust that sets off the milder meat spectacularly.
IL Bolognese [MAP 5/H8] 139/3 Sathorn Tai Soi 7 | 02-286-8805 | ilbolognesebangkok.com | 11:30am-2:30pm, 5.30pm-11pm If the name itself doesn’t tip you off, then the living room décor will: Il Bolognese says tradition from the floor-to-ceiling of its spacious low room in the glass conservatory extension of a soi villa. Just inside the entrance are a brick crescent moon counter bangkok101.com
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and wood fired pizza oven, where they flip and paddle thin and thick crust pizzas. There are cold cuts and cheese displays; wooden wine racks; and shelves with hanging hams and strings of garlic bulbs. Simple square wooden tables stand on terracotta tiles with Mediterranean floral inlays similar to fragments at Pompeii and Rome’s Ostia Antica. Good quality cold cuts (B420 and B650) come with home-pickled vegetables and gnocco fritto (small diamond shapes of light, deep fried bread, all puffed and airy in the middle) that are a clean and crispy foil for the tasty meats. Tortellini Emiliani (B350) is billed as “not mama’s or grandmama’s, but the original recipe”. The pasta rings have fillings of ground pork and beef, all topped with a rich creamy sauce finished with nutmeg and parmesan. And the lasagna spinach with Bolognese sauce (B300) has spinach mixed into the pasta dough, which allows an unusually soft texture. On the all-Italian wine list, with bottles from B900-B6900, there’s one sparkling and three each of red and white by the glass (from B190, also available in half and full litre carafes B450 and B800).
FOOD & DRIN K
CHEZ PAPÉ
French Bistro
La Bottega di Luca [MAP 3/P8] The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 02-204-1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm Nestled in a smallish mall on soi 49, La Bottega di Luca is an immediately welcoming space, effortlessly combining indoor-outdoor seating and cultivating a relaxed vibe that makes it a neighbourhood favourite with real panache. Luca, who runs the show, updates the parts of the menu regularly and orders produce in from Italy fortnightly. The antipasti start at B290 and the grilled scamorza (B390) – that’s smoked mozzarella – wrapped in speck ham with mushrooms and red wine sauce is a delight. It’s a simple idea but the evident care taken in preparation elevates this to a gorgeous starter, reminding diners just how much they’ve come to miss cheese in Bangkok. And that sauce – you’ll be tempted to lick the plate clean. There’s a sizeable menu and it can be tricky to know which direction to take. The most eye-catching salad is the seafood combination (B220) with steamed prawns, baby squid, mussels and clams seasoned with garlic. But who are we kidding? We’re here for the rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion. That means it’s hard to go past the homemade pasta that gets freshly made every day – the dishes are reasonably priced at B240-490, although you’ll be shelling out
Traditional French Food Quality Wine from around the world
prices to make you smile Sukhumvit Soi 11
OPEN daily 5pm - 11pm
Weekend lunch 11.30am - 2.30pm Tel:
02 255 2492
info@chezpape.com
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listings JAPANESE Above eleven [MAP 3/C4]
Scalini B1790 if you feel indulgent enough to go for the lobster. The paccheri with saute Italian sausage and fennel seeds certainly doesn’t disappoint. There’s a rich, full flavour, meaty enough to eat with a glass of red wine but with a complexity of seasoning and ticklish spice at the end of each mouthful.
scalini [MAP 3/n12] Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 02-620 6666 | hilton.com/en | Noon2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Scalini is ostensibly a modern Italian place but it riffs on a New York connection, while borrowing bits and pieces from the international table. So, in short, it’s Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. It’s apparent from the antipastis, which include a tuna and salmon tartar, with lemon aioli, mango salad and seared ciabatta (B450) – retaining a Mediterranean base with lighter, Asian-influenced combinations. Other dishes stay closer to home, such as the Wagyu beef carpaccio, with porcini salsa, rocket and parmesan, served with white truffle vinaigrette (B570, main image). The rich, satisfying taste of Italian food has an extra layer of complexity. That’s more or less the brief for all modern cuisine – taking the familiar and refining it, heightening it. And it’s on show again with the Hokkaido scallops, served with celery, red onion, tomatoes and cherry vinaigrette (B480). These adventurously designed openers set the bar high so it’s perversely pleasing that the pastas tack slightly more toward the traditional, although the pumpkin and sage ravioli (B380) still has a surprisingly delicate flavour and the duck ragout with black truffle and tonino pecorino (B600) is one of the absolute stand-outs. So far, this balancing act has worked a treat – the concept is clear but it’s still all about the food. It proves slightly harder to adapt this approach to the larger, heavier mains, although both the braised veal ossobuco (B980) and the veal rack with mortadello ham and provolone (B980) are confidently presented. 80 | M A RCH 2014
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33F Frasers Suite Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-207-9300 aboveeleven.com | 6pm-2am Chef Omar Frank Maruy brings Bangkok’s first taste of Nikkei cuisine, a PeruvianJapanese fusion developed over 140 years of Japanese immigration. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on. Tip: choose a seat on the north side – it gets windy to the south. Start with a pre-dinner Peruvian cocktail – maybe a pisco sour, made with Peruvian grappa, lime, egg white and angostura (B350) – before checking out the menu, which also has some Japanese dishes. Starters include Cebiche Above Eleven (B550), in which the crunch of deep fried calamari contrasts well with raw seabass marinated in ‘Tiger’s Milk’, a blend including shallots, lemon and chilli with flavours similar to Thai, although much more restrained. Five skewers of cubed charcoal grilled beef heart (B240) are served with three Peruvian dips of increasing fieriness, and Kani Causa (B300) is three mounds of yellow coloured mashed potato topped with crab meat, avocado, quail egg and mayo. Plates are served centrally to share and portions are generous, particularly on main courses such as Seco de Cordero (B950), a slow-cooked lamb shank seasoned with beer, cilantro, cumin and aji Amarillo. Aji is chilli, which, for cooking, Peruvians use deseeded and pre-boiled, which retains flavour and aroma but removes the spiciness.
Elements [MAP 4/L5] Fl25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 02-6879000 | 6pm-10.30pm Elements is an imposing space, where heavy ship’s lanterns loom overhead from a high ceiling lined with the inevitable exposed piping. It’s perhaps a bit large to fit the ‘living room’ atmosphere described in the marketing bumph, despite the sofa style and armchair seating. The décor is predominantly black and brown, low lit, with full wall sculptures of black charcoal at each end of the room that – as well as providing an arty backdrop – apparently filter out cooking smells from the open kitchen. To wind down grab a sake cocktail (maybe ‘sakura’, with plum wine, cranberry, and syrups of rose apple and sakura, B350) as you choose from a list billed as ‘modern
Hama-Ichi logical cuisine’, which they translate to me as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into a la carte, with main meat courses largely in the B900-B1500 range, and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option (B1200). We opted for the five-course Moments set (B2400), starting with excellent quality gravlax and lightly smoked tuna with wasabi vinaigrette and soy jelly. Other dishes included a mushroom infusion poured over sautée mushrooms, hazelnuts and thyme flavoured croutons; and slow cooked wagyu done two ways, as 24-hour sous vide short rib, with truffle mash, celeriac and apple, and beef cheek hachée.
Hama-Ichi [MAP 3/J6] Legacy Suites, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 29, Klongtoey-Nua | 02-662-3376 | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight (last order 11:30pm), Sun 4pm-11pm (last order 10:30pm) If you’re ok with dining side by side with the salarymen, grab a stool at the long bar, behind which the staff prep the food while dressed in bandanas and loud t-shirts emblazoned with the restaurant’s mangastyle fish logo. Or, for more intimacy, ask to be seated at one of the tables sectioned off from each other by bamboo screens. While clearly aimed at – and mostly catering to – a Japanese clientele, the menu is easily deciphered by English readers, with a short description and small but salivating pictures accompanying the names of each of the almost 300 dishes. Dive straight in – we did, and didn’t regret any of it. The mixed tempura was done just right, not overly battered. Our pick of the sushi, the aburi-zushi gokan (seared salmon, mackerel, yellow-tail; B460), was devoured in minutes. And our bowl of kaisendon (sashimi on rice) with accompanying blob of wasabi, a sumptuous table-pleaser. Two dishes stood out above all the others. The first was the ishikara nabe, or salmon hotpot. Thick with vegetables and tofu as well as chunks of fish, this miso-based soup had a complex, almost creamy flavour that we just couldn’t say no to. At B250 for a big bowlful, we’d say it’s a must. bangkok101.com
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listings YTSB
Toro Sushi [MAP 3/R8] No.88 in soi connecting Thong Lor 5 to 9, Sukhumvit 55 | 02-712-8447 | facebook.com/ torofreshsushi | Mon-Fri 4pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm Rather old-fashioned looking, with slats of light wood and bare bulb lighting like the one used in Japanese markets, there’s nothing at all fancy about it – and in a city where style to often strong-arm substance that’s part of its charm. The same old-school approach extends to the food.There’s lots of sushi on the menu, but little in the way of the fancy sushi creations you find at your heaving chain equivalents. Starters include chawanmushi (B80), steamed egg custard served warm. Another light opener is the Engkawa sushi (B120 per piece). Though it looks a little oily,the lightly grilled flatfish, rice and accompanying sour ponzu sauce add up to very moreish mouthfuls. A decent side perfect for chomping on in between sips of your hot or cold sake (which starts from B300 per 300ml) is the shiraou karaage (B190), which are little fish deep fried and lightly salted. As well as sides and sushi, fresh sashimi boats are also served, the most expensive being the Sashimi Moriawase 7 (B1900) featuring seven different kinds: otoro, akami, hamachi, salmon, mandai, Saba and Japanese scallops.The meat is fresh, the wasabi sauce reeks of quality, and the rice has a mild smooth taste. But what really stands out over and above all of them is the melt-in-your-mouth Otoro sashimi. Reservations are recommended if you want to sit at a table, not the sushi bar. Check Toro Sushi’s Facebook for promotions and updates – this may be a traditional restaurant, but it’s not stuck in the dark ages.
YTSB [MAP 8/J12] VIE Hotel, 117/39-40 Phaya Thai Road | 02309-3939 | viehotelbangkok.com | 6pm-11pm The odd-looking name is an abbreviation for Yellow Tail Sushi Bar, which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. The fish has different names according to size and stage but is known as yellowtail bangkok101.com
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once it reaches maturity and is ready to eat. Upon a first glance, the restaurant is decked out with chic Japanese-themed décor rather than authentic Japanese style. The soft yellow lighting creates a low-key ambience likely to draw you in. It’s also on the fourth floor of VIE Hotel – so before you settle in, head downstairs to the outdoor terrace on the third floor, where you can still order food and drinks from the well-stocked bar. The name of the venue might suggest that the menu is all about yellowtail, but there’s real variety. If you’re in a group, it’s hard to ignore the set of appetisers (B1180) composed of dried stingray fin, dried shrimps, fried salmon and salted ginkgo. It arrives on a long bamboo platter, emphasising YTSB’s fusion influences, as opposed to taking the strictly traditional route. If you want to branch out beyond the raw fish, there are alternatives with wagyu and chicken. Maybe try the kagoshima wagyu namban yaki (B2500), cooked with Japanese seasoning and topped with sesame, mushroom, and asparagus. Each bite is tender, and the Japanese seasoning is exquisite. But the spotlight still comes back to the sashimi, especially the aburi Hamachi jalapeno, which includes five pieces for B600.
Zuma [MAP 4/G6] Ground Fl, 159 Ratchadamri Rd 02-252-4707 | zumarestaurant.com 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm The style and presentation of the dishes is unmistakably contemporary – authentic but not traditional – exemplified by a particularly snazzy range of cocktails, including the Rubabu (B295), which blends sake and vodka with fresh passionfruit, and a spectacular lychee rose martini. But, of course, it’s the food that really matters and, in a format that might take a little getting used to for those accustomed to a starter, then a main, then a dessert, Zuma is a bit more free and easy than that. The technique required to execute the smaller dishes is truly impressive and, because of Zuma’s three open kitchens, customers can watch the chefs at work. There are several highlights, though, including the sliced yellowtail served with green chilli relish, ponzu and pickled garlic (B410) – the effect is stunning, a mouthful of the most delicately textured seafood packed with light but still intense flavour. No less impressive are the plates of nigiri sushi and selected sashimi (B1100) –
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Zuma Japanese food has become so ubiquitous that it’s easy to forget how it’s meant to taste when it’s done with absolute precision and attention to detail. Some diners may be nervous about eating raw beef (B490) but at Zuma, served with citrus dressing, it goes down so well that any apprehension soon evaporates. Combining teriyaki and fish can backfire – the tangy flavour of the sauce can easily overwhelm the taste of the seafood but Zuma’s salmon and teriyaki with sliced cucumber (B480) is perfectly executed, the sauce flavours understated enough to let the salmon retain centre stage.
MEXICAN EL DIABLO’S [MAP 8/P17] 330 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-663-8646 | TuesSun 11.30am-11pm The bottom end of soi 22 – the funny little dog-leg where it kinks back toward soi 24 – is not an obvious place for a Mexican cantina. The bold, brightly coloured facade of El Diablo’s is flanked by Thai thrift shops and mini-marts. Restaurateurs here cannot rely on foot traffic, on customers happening past and popping in. That’s why El Diablo’s has gone out of their way to make sure they have the kind of food that persuades people to make the trip. Here, at El Diablo’s, the burritos are the stars of the show – quite simply, they’re enormous, ranging from B120 for the basic combination to B225 for the snazzier carne asada – or grilled beef. They make their own tortillas on the premises and while they are delightfully fresh, it’s the liberal servings of roasted salsa and pico de gallo that really deliver. If the burritos are too much for you to tackle, there’s plenty of smaller fare worth sampling. The tacos (B70-90) are particularly impressive. Again, the salsa and the toppings are light, refreshing, with just enough spice to blow out the cobwebs, while the varieties – chicken, pork, beef and chorizo – all retain enough of their distinct tastes that the different tacos never blur into a hotpotch of cheese and guacamole M A RCH 2014 | 81
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listings MIDDLE EASTERN
Snapper
Arabesque [MAP3 / B7]
Señor Pico – although the guacamole here is also topnotch. It’s a winning combination – if you’ve struggled to find fresh, flavoursome Mexican food, these tacos are the way forward. That’s not to undersell the quesadillas, of course (B150- 245), but it’s probably the tacos and the burritos which are the staples that keep those with cravings for Mexican food filtering back to El Diablo’s.
Señor Pico [MAP 3/K11] 1F Rembrandt Hotel 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 02-261-7100 | facebook.com/Senorpicobkk 5pm-1am When chef Fernando Reyes Barba showed up alongside our table holding a heavy molcajete, Mexico’s traditional stone mortar. it was clear times had changed at Señor Pico, which opened 17 years ago in the Rembrandt Hotel. That original Cal-Mex brand was established in 1964 by none other than Victor Bergeron of Trader Vic’s fame. It followed a similar franchise pattern until the chain died out in the United States. Nowhere else in town have we seen such dishes as aguachile de camarón (B395), a soupy concoction of prawns marinated in lime juice, olive oil and chile de arbol, common in Mexico but practically unknown beyond the country’s borders. House specialities include costillas de borrego (B695), chipotle-and-garlic-rubbed lamb cutlets, atun del diablo (B595), a seared tuna rubbed with Mexican spices served with avocado and mango salsa, and espetadas (B495), chargrilled Portugesestyle kebabs, a choice of tiger prawns, jalapeño and cilantro sausage. Several dishes feature duck, which is popular in Mexico but rarely seen in American-style Mexican eateries. Higado de Pato (495B) is duck liver served with Mexican corncake, mango pico de gallo (fresh salsa) and a sauce of raspberry blended with chile ancho (dried Poblano chillies). More familiar Mexican fare like tacos, burritos, quesadillas, fajitas and enchiladas are found on the menu as well. Tacos are offered both in the traditional soft style and in the crisped-tortilla style, here labelled tacos gringos (B350). 82 | M A RCH 2014
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68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2, Sukhumvit Rd 02-656-9440 | facebook.com/ arabesquerestaurantbangkokthailand 11am-2am The hostess in traditional garb that greets you on the street is the first indicator that Arabesque wants to make a good impression. The ‘Arabesque’ motifs – the Egyptian-made wood and seashell doors, window frames and pillars – that give the restaurant its name and accent the sandy orange dining room are another. Unlike most of its competitors, the menu is as pure Egyptian as the fixtures (and the imported goodies sold in the on-site bazaar, which occupies the other half of the curtained off interior). As well as dishes that fans of Middle Eastern cuisine will know well, such as hummus, mousaka and tajine (claypot stews), it includes some they probably won’t. Koushary, for example, is an Egyptian staple of lentil, macaroni, rice, fried onions and chili tomato sauce that we’ve never seen on the menu anywhere else. After munching on the free plate of pickled vegetables with spicy dip, we opened with a plate of hummus (B120) and a fresh, finely diced mixed salad in a vinegary/lemony dressing. Both were excellent, especially when scooped up using strips of the fresh oven-baked pita bread. As for mains, plenty of grilled meats (shish kebab, kofta, etc) are offered but we gravitated towards Egypt’s hearty, oven-baked dishes. One was fattah, a stodgy yet satisfying rice dish that’s similar to tajine expect for the scraps of bread that are mixed into it.
SEAFOOD snapper [MAP 3/f8] 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-1098 snapper-bangkok.com Mon-Fri 5pm midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight Within Bangkok’s vast melting pot of international cuisines, poor old New Zealand can get overlooked, but it ensures anyone who ventures down the sub-soi that snakes left from Cheap Carlie’s on Sukhumvit Soi 11 to Snapper has a joyous discovery waiting for them. New Zealand cuisine is hard to define precisely but it emphasises quality produce, and allows it to speak for itself with uncomplicated presentation. This works particularly well when it comes to seafood and, although Snapper has a low-key,
laidback atmosphere, owners Mark and Craig take their produce very seriously, importing it all the way from the chilly waters of the Tasman. It pays off handsomely. The Nelson Bay scallops, sauteed in white wine, butter and chives (B790) epitomise the approach of not masking the natural goodness of the product with a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients. That seafood taste is there in spades, along with a perfectly firm yet tender texture that identifies top-drawer seafood. They’ve got some stiff competition from the mussels, though, served as starters (B200-B300) or in a more substantial sharing platter (B480), topped with spiced tomato that offsets the ocean-infused tang without ever overwhelming it. Snapper has done its darnedest to set itself apart as serving the best fish and chips in Bangkok and it’s pretty hard to argue with the orange roughie (B480) that just comes apart effortlessly on the plate. But if you think the Kiwis are keen on their seafood – they are, with good cause – they’re pretty jazzed about New Zealand lamb and beef as well. And while Snapper’s menu remains heavily seafood-focused, the addition of a small but brilliantly executed meat section is a masterstroke.
the oyster bar [MAP 2/e11] 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 02-212-4809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know the owner of a restaurant takes his seafood seriously when there are several pages of the menu devoted entirely to oysters. With Billy Marinelli, owner of the Oyster Bar in a foodie enclave of Chong Nonsi, customers are in good hands. As a seafood wholesaler, Billy has a particularly keen eye for good produce and, as far as his restaurant goes, seems less concerned with turning a profit than with running a place where he likes to eat. Those oysters have been brought in from all over the world – you’ll find them for B75-B150 each, discounted if you go for a dozen. If you’ve brought your most serious bangkok101.com
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listings Oyster Bar
appetite, move on to the seafood platter (B2000 for two or B3500 for four or more), offering a gorgeous pile of oysters, scallop sashimi, bay shrimp, seaweed salad, Dungeness crab, mussels, clams and caviar. The presentation is impressively straightforward, emphasising the produce without the unnecessary bells and whistles. The portions here are generous – and remarkably affordable given the quality – but they’re unlikely to last long once they land on the table as every part of the platter positively glows with that slightly briney goodness. A string of highlights follow: the seared Alaskan scallops with mango puree and pickled shallots (B450) adds a fruity tang to the soft, subtle flesh that barely needs chewing. The fish of the day will vary but it would be unwise to overlook the wild salmon (B600), served more simply but prepared with an unmistakable sense of what good
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salmon does in a customer’s mouth. For some diners, that may be enough but for those prepared to carry on, the rewards are well worth it. The seafood paella (main image, B600 for two) is as good at it gets, rustically presented, steaming with spices and sauce, a mountain of mixed seafood to be ladled out and shared.
VEGETARIAN Rasa yana Raw Food Café [MAP 3/M3]
57 Sukhumvit Soi 39 (Soi Prommitr), Sukhumvit Rd | 02-662-4803 | rasayanaretreat.com | 10am-8pm daily Veganism is still a fresh concept in Bangkok’s food scene, with just one raw food joint in the city –Rasayana Raw Cafe on Sukhumvit Soi 39. The eatery is part of a colon-cleansing spa retreat so you know these chefs are serious about putting healthy food in your stomach. The all-vegan menu is rooted in the idea that cooked food loses all the important enzymes and nutrients that thrive in raw and uncooked food. Although it may be daunting for meat lovers and those with a soft spot for deepfried delicacies, one meal at this health food haven proves how easy it is to consume food
FOOD & DRIN K
Rasa Yana Raw Food Cafe that’s totally good for you. We’ve tried a good number of Rasayana’s dishes, in all their uncooked glory, but we normally start with a freshly squeezed juice such as the Rasayana combo (B85): a blend of carrot, beet, celery and apple juice. It’s so tasty that you forget there are veggies in it! If you’re looking for something that will give you the strength of the Incredible Hulk, then try the green and mean Rejuvenator (B85), made of spinach, lettuce, parsley and carrot juice. We also like the carrot cream (B150) soup made with carrots and almond milk, topped with a flavourful powder of fennel and celery that adds an extra kick to the soup. For main course, try the eggplant lasagna (B190) made of layers of marinated eggplant, zucchini, marinara and avocado sauce, which together give this pseudo-lasagne its rainbow colours.
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long table
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Nightlife a dip in the ocean
Candian singer-songrwiter Vita Chambers will be in town this month, performing at Ocean Bangkok (7 Soi Sukhumvit 33; 02-261-2800; oceanbangkok.com) on March 16, supported by Nesya. Ocean is already a top location for all-day dining but really hits its straps after the sun goes down and the cocktails start flowing. The fact that there’s an international act playing suggests it will be a night to remember at this unique Bangkok night spot. Tickets are B900 on the door.
new arRival on soi 11
Wax (37 Sukhumvit Soi 11; 0823-083-246; facebook.com/WaxBangkok) is one of the new arrivals on Soi 11, the capital’s busiest nightlife strip. It’s part of the same group who run Levels and Bash and promises to add an extra dimension to this bustling part of the capital. Once everything shuts up shop for the night, Wax will still be going strong, promising regular touring DJs and underground beats. So keep an eye out for their upcoming events – it could be the perfect place for your next time on the town.
it’s bath time!
Another new opening promises to have diners and drinkers flocking to Sukhumvit Soi 16 for a touch of style. Bath (Sukhumvit Soi 16, 082-491-2501, facebook.com/BathLoungebar) is a restaurant and lounge bar with an upscale aesthetic built around a water theme. There’s a unique decor as well as exposed beams, stripped-back walls and high ceilings. Still, it’s spacious and comfortable and we can’t wait to swing by to try the food and cocktails. Stay tuned for a review in coming months.
bars booming in ekkamai
There are a stacks of new cafe/bars to have cropped up in Ekkamai in the past month or so, apparently spilling over from the slightly over-serviced backstreets of Thong Lor. If you’re looking for a new place to hang out this weekend, check out Sugar Ray (Baan Ekkamai Soi 21, 086-547-4633), ‘gypsy microbrewery’ Mikkeller (26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2, 02-381-9891), Vivant Table (12/5 Ekkamai Soi 2, 02-714-2996) or old-school but still super-comfortable Hugo (39 Soi Ekamai 12, 02-713-1292).
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wabi-sabi - Japanese gastrobar -
I
n Japanese, wabi-sabi refers to a kind of beauty that embraces imperfection and impermanence. Nothing lasts, nothing is finished and nothing is perfect. Like many Japanese phrases, it has no direct translation in English and even a cursory explanation sounds distinctly curly to Western ears. Fortunately, there’s nothing quite so bewildering about the Japanese gastrobar at Groove that bears the same name. Occupying an invitingly slick space diagonally opposite 1881 by Water Library, Wabi-Sabi has deliberately eschewed any hint of Japanese kitsch, instead embracing a modern, slightly snazzy aesthetic, from the gleaming bar to the imposing black stone tables and chairs. It’s upscale without being over-the-top and immediately feels like the kind of place worth swinging past for some after-work cocktails. The open kitchen periodically throws up bursts off flame in between the frenzied chopping of fresh seafood. The chefs work from a vast menu that uses ingredients from all over Japan. Indeed, the menu is divided up by regions: Hokkaido, Tohoku, Kanto, Chubu, Kansai, Shikoku, Chukoku and Kyushu. Try the salt-grilled salmon (B300) from Hokkaido or the fresh squid mixed with spicy cod roe (B460) from Kyushu. Food aside, Wabi-Sabi takes its sake seriously. Indeed, they serve more than 80 varieties and are increasingly incorporating them into cocktails. The staff will be happy 86 | M A RCH 2014
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to hook you up with your own little decanter so you can refill you glass – or, in this case, wooden sake box. Groove is surely destined to build a following as it settles in and new places open. From early appearances, Wabi-Sabi should have no problem bringing drinkers and diners through the doors for a little slice of the Land of the Rising Sun.
wabi-sabi
[MAP 4/g4]
Groove at CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd | 11am-1am
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review
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listings
Bash
Nightclubs BASH [ma p 3/F8] 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (entrance next to the Australian Pub | bashbangkok.com Midnight-very late Open till “very late”, Bash is brash. The guys who set this place up spliced strands of global clubbing DNA with the usually sleazy after-hours club concept. There are burlesque dancers ranging from midgets and robots on stilts to cross-dressing whacker Pan Pan (the shows bring to mind risqué superclub Manumission at times); the fixtures and furniture are of the very glam sort (gleaming Louis IX furniture, etc); and the DJs are often big names. Head up the stairs lined with misshapen mirrors and you’ll find three floors of fun, two of them taken up by the main room and the mezzanine which overlooks it.
Funky Villa [MAP 3/R1] Thong Lor Soi 10 | 08-5253-2000 | 6pm-2am The name Funky Villa conjures images of roller-blading babes in bikinis, all partying at a Hugh Hefner-owned villa in the Med. The reality’s different. Steer your way through the fairground-sized car park, past the BMWs and chic lounge-deck area, and you’ll hit a swish one-storey house, more posh than funky. Some of Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls around in the front room; but most hit the fridge-cool dancehall to boogie away the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs. Forget about edgy sounds – here it’s all about getting down with the CEOs of tomorrow.
ku de ta [MAP 5/g6] 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 02-108-2000 kudeta.net | 6pm-late Since its opening amid much fanfare at the end of last year, Ku De Ta has quickly built a reputation as one of the places in Bangkok to keep an eye on. The hype and 88 | M A RCH 2014
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the investment have been massive and there’s an ambition to match. Ku De Ta sets out to add a new dimension to a night out in Bangkok by providing an upscale club experience for the city’s movers and shakers but it has also carved out its own unique aesthetic that is sure to make it one of Bangkok’s top nightlife destination venues. Undoubtedly, the space is the first part of Ku De Ta’s glittering fit-out that catches the eyes. The main club is a vast rectangular area with skyscraper ceilings and a long window running down an entire side, affording an exceptional view of Bangkok. Another feature is the very snazzy, very modern LED ‘chandelier’ hangs over the dance floor, twinkling a variety of different colours.
Levels [MAP 3/f8] 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0823-083-246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am Of all the venues of Sukhumvit Soi 11, Levels has benefited the most from the closure earlier this year of Bed Supperclub. Great swathes of that clientele now overflow to the other side of the soi, making Levels one of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok, on any night of the week. At many popular clubs in Bangkok, the crowd quickly finds a familiar groove, attracting one particular kind of revellers that old hands can identify fairly quickly – whether that’s the tourists passing through on the way to the beach or the slightly more clued-up locals returning to a favourite haunt. At Levels, though, it’s much harder to categorise – there’s a welcome mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of Levels’ buzzy atmosphere.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4] President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd mixxdiscotheque.com | B350 | 10pm-late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, as long as things go smoothly, the chance to party until nearly sunrise.
Q Bar
ROUTE 66 [Map 8/Q12] 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | route66club.com B200 foreigners incl. drink / free for Thais Rammed with hordes of dressed-to-kill young Thais on most nights of the week, ‘Route’, as it is affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, alllasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands bang out hits in ‘The Novel’. Route is not a good place to lose your friends but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area. One sore point: unlike the locals, foreigners are charged a B200 entry fee.
THE CLUB [Map 7/F 5] 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 02-629-1010 theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am B 100 (incl. one drink) The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret lend a fairytale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to mid 1990s psy-trance raves. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, usually cranium-rattling electro house and techno. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.
Q BAR [Map 3/C4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with big name international DJs appearing regularly. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife twelve years ago and is still going strong, bangkok101.com
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listings The other bands, JazzPlayground, P.O.8, Rhythm Nation and Hot Gossip, play from Wednesday to Saturday respectively. In between sets, tuck into their ‘Goong goong goong’ menu, combining fresh prawns with a variety of international flavours.
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St Regis Bar
spasso [MAP 8/l13]
Spasso with a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now, there’s more room to dance and more lounge space, especially at QUP, the more downtempo upstairs area. Also, out the back of the venue, through a revolving door from the dance floor, you can find your way into Le Derriere, Q Bar’s very own Parisianstyle absinthe bar that is perfect for chilling.
hotel bars & clubs BARSU [map 3/F6] 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250, Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, there are five live bands for each night of the week. Comprised of students from Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Jazz, Tenon Round’ are a gifted young quartet who perform every Tuesday from 8.30 to 10.30pm.
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Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-254-1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm2.30am There’s no shortage of hotel bars in Bangkok but Spasso, on the ground floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan has been around for 21 years and remains a favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it presents as a sedate Italian restaurant but after hours, after it transforms into a club and cocktail bar, it really hits its stride, revelling in its energetic, uninhibited atmosphere. The layout is unconventional – an open-plan foyer and dining area narrows into a dancefloor, flanked by two horseshoe-shaped bars. It has the effect of funnelling all the action between the bars and on to the dancefloor. Spasso is not so much for Bangkok scenesters – its selling point is that it’s slightly wild and the live band does its best to whip partygoers into even higher spirits.
ST REGIS BAR [map 4/G 7] St Regis Bangkok Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd 02-207-7777 | stregis.com | Mon-Fri 10am-1am, Sat-Sun 10am-2am At 6:30pm each day a butler struts out on to the terrace of the St Regis Bar, a saber in one hand, a bottle of Moet & Chandon in the other. He then flicks at the collar until ‘pop!’, the cork flies off and bubbly spurts
gently out on to the terrace. Come for this, stay for the view. Stretching along a plate glass window, the rectangle venue – with its suave masculine vibe, long bar, clubby sofas and high-ceilings – eyeballs the city’s Royal Bangkok Sports Club. It’s a lovely spot at sunset, even better on every second Sunday afternoon, when you can spy on the horseracing with a fine malt whiskey in hand.
Bars with views Above Eleven [MAP 3/C4] 33Fl Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-207-9300 aboveeleven.com | 6pm-2am A west-facing 33rd floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, Above Eleven is a winning combination. The outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view has a central bar, dining tables, lounge areas and huge daybeds for parties to slumber on. Tip: choose a seat on the north side – it gets windy to the south. There’s a great view, an impressive cocktail list and an electro soundtrack.
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Heaven
AMOROSA [Map 7/C12] 4F Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd 02-221-9158 | arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Amorosa is a sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails and a so-so wine list. The showstopper, though, is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, guests gaze out from its balcony terrace on to the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn, on the banks beyond. Go before sundown and enjoy watching the sun sink slowly behind it. Or come later, when amber floodlights make it glow against the night sky.
heaven [MAP 8/k13] 20F Zen @ Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-100-9000 | heaven-on-zen.com Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am It’s heavily dependent on the weather as the design offers precious little protection but on a warm Bangkok night, when the golden backdrop of its feature bar lights up like a metal sun, it feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital. Crucially, they’ve got the cocktails (all B280-B320) right, using a well-chosen blend of spirits without going overboard and trying to cram every drink with one too many flavours. The Surreal Seduction – slightly cheesey name but we’ll forgive it because it tastes good – combines vodka, apple liqueur, elderflower syrup and pear puree. It’s super fruity but apple liqueur is one of the more versatile, underused ingredients in cocktails and it sets off the others in a way that’s refreshing but still carries a kick.
LONG TABLE [Map 3/H8] 25F 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 02-302-2557 | longtablebangkok.com 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing that draws Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar. 90 | M A RCH 2014
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There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – wide-screen city vistas.
MOON BAR [Map 5/K8] 61F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too.
octave [MAP 3/s10] 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 02-797-0000 facebook.com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back some of Octave’s punchy, refreshing cocktails. The Thai Mojito (B320) starts things off in a way that’s familiar enough but well-executed, combining the standards of white rum, basil and lime with spicy mango, adding a zingy twist to the established mojito formula. More innovative still is the Bloom Over The Roof (B320), which fuses Red Berry Tea-flavoured vodka with fresh mint leaves and elderflower syrup. It might seem a little flowery but the overall effect is a seriously drinkable concoction that cuts right through the humidity.
NEST [Map 3/C4] 9F Le Fenix, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 02-305-4000 | lefenixsukhumvit.com 5pm-2am An all-white and urbane open-air oasis on
Nest the ninth floor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, Nest is a loungey and laid-back spot on weekdays and early evenings, with couples enjoying signature martinis and upmarket nibbles from the comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially during special party nights. These include Mode, a shindig every second Saturday of the month that pumps hip-hop and house beats rather than the usual smooth Balearic sounds. What are the views alike? With buildings looming above you, not below you, here you feel part of the cityscape.
RED SKY [Map 4/F 3] 56F Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 02-100-1234 centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm-1am Encircling the 56th floor turret of CentralWorld’s adjoining Centara Grand Hotel, the al fresco Red Sky offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come – plonk yourself down on a rattan chair or oversized daybed and wait for the lightshow to begin. When daylight fades and the city lights up like a circuit-board, a live jazz band kicks in and Bangkok takes on a glam cosmopolitan aura. Upscale bar snacks like slowcooked baby back pork ribs and martinis, cocktails and wines are on hand to keep you company while your eyes explore the scenery. It’s not cheap, but the daily happy hours (buy one get one drink on selected wine, beer and cocktails from 5pm-7pm).
SKY BAR / DISTIL [map 5/C5] 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd 02-624-9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Sky bar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, bangkok101.com
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listings gras to caviar or risotto, or sip on fine wines and cocktails as the sun sets in a blaze of colour behind Wat Arun. Just as gently, the soft lounge lights come on to create an atmosphere of casual intimacy. As the first stars appear, the city’s coolest jazz sounds will set the mood which true aficionados will not be able to resist.
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Apoteka
woo bar [map 5/g7] Three Sixty beyond premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view. Adjacent to Asian seafood eatery Breeze, Ocean 52 sports yet another stunning view from the 51st – 52nd floors. These places are definitely not spots for the casual beach bum, so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart casual dress code is enforced.
The Speakeasy [MAP 4/J6] Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd 02-630-4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, The Speakeasy has several sections, all radiating from the Long Bar, which you enter from the elevator. As the name suggests, the complex evokes the glamour of Prohibition Era USA, with fusion Deco details, mirrored wall panels and carved wood screens. Everything’s distressed, the parquet floors unvarnished – it’s a well-oiled joint with a warm, lived-in feel. On the wooden deck Terrace Bar people fill the lounge areas and tall tables that hug the classical balustrades overlooking Lang Suan. A long international snack menu stands out for decent portions at reasonable prices; spirits (from B270) include luxury cognacs and malts; wines are B300-B600 a glass, while cocktails (from B 290) include home-made vodka infusions.
threeSixty [map 5/b2] Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd 02-442-2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am High above the glittering lights of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River, ThreeSixty is the only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views over the entire, dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, all year round. A private glass lift takes guests all the way up to the 32nd floor which boasts panoramic vistas from its 130m tall, circular lounge. Guests can feast on a range of miniature culinary experiences, from foie bangkok101.com
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W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 02-344-4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok Sun-Wed 9am-1am, Thurs-Sat 9am-2am Located on the ground floor of the W Hotel, Woo Bar has all of the flair and emphasis on design that has come to characterise the hotel franchise. It’s chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, spacious enough to find a seat without being echoey and without atmosphere. And, most importantly, the cocktails pass with flying colours, some inventive signature drinks rubbing shoulders with well-executed standard tipples. The Bliss (B325), which comes from the bartenders at W Hotel in New York, combines Ciroc vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, mint and fresh ginger. You might struggle to stop at just one.
BARS THE ALCHEMIST [map 3/e8] 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 083-549-2055 Facebook: thealchemistbkk | Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight Fitting somewhere between Soi 11’s swank cocktail bars and the rickety dive bar aesthetic of the legendary Cheap Charlie’s, which it neighbours, The Alchemist is a stylishly stripped down drinking hole. Nothing more, nothing less. We approve, and so too, it seems, do the punters. Not only does it attract the spill-over from Cheap Charlie’s, it also draws a loyal crowd of its own, who savour the intimate atmosphere, occasional live music, proper his and her toilets (Cheap Charlie’s are infamous for their dinginess) and, above all, drinks prices. Currently rocking the drinks list are assorted martinis (dry, passionfruit and espresso), classic cocktails, random shooters, and some of the best mojitos you’ll find on this end of Sukhumvit.
Apoteka [map 3/e8] 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 090-626-7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight As you may have guessed, the name is
based on an outdated word for pharmacist and the place is meant to emulate a 19th century apothecary. Unsurprisingly, it has an old-school feel. There are high ceilings, red brick walls and Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde being projected onto the wall. Indoor seating is a mix of tall tables with studded chairs, and long tables for larger groups along the main wall. Large cases filled with vintage-coloured bottles of medicine flank the bar. The outdoor seating is mellow – a wooden patio with some cozy furniture that could be a nice place to curl up on a date or meet some friends for a smoke and a beer. Drink selection includes a niceBARS
THE ALCHEMIST [map 3/e8] 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 083-549-2055 Facebook: thealchemistbkk | Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight Fitting somewhere between Soi 11’s swank cocktail bars and the rickety dive bar aesthetic of the legendary Cheap Charlie’s, which it neighbours, The Alchemist is a stylishly stripped down drinking hole. Nothing more, nothing less. We approve, and so too, it seems, do the punters. Not only does it attract the spill-over from Cheap Charlie’s, it also draws a loyal crowd of its own, who savour the intimate atmosphere, occasional live music, proper his and her toilets (Cheap Charlie’s are infamous for their dinginess) and, above all, drinks prices. Currently rocking the drinks list are assorted martinis, classic cocktails and some of the best mojitos.
Badmotel [MAP 3/R6] 331/4-5 Soi Thong Lor | 02-712-7288 5pm-1am | facebook.com/badmotel The name Badmotel may conjure up something kitsch and grimy but, in fact, this three-floor bar and restaurant is extremely sparsely decorated and painted a bright white, giving it the feel of a pre-decorated house. The top two floors can feel a little lacking in atmosphere but the ground floor’s buzzing bar and tree-lined garden M A RCH 2014 | 91
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listings CHEAP CHARLIE’S [map 3/D6]
Cheap Charlie’s make a very pleasant spot to sip on the venue’s ‘Creation Cocktails’, all B220. The imaginative drinks menu includes locally inspired must-tries like the Hahaha Martini (made from Ketel vodka, homemade chilli liqueur, galangal, cumin powder and pickled grapes), Teenager’s Iced Tea (made using traditional Thai tea with four sprits and liqueur) and the Never Say Never.
BARLEY BISTRO [map 5/h5] 4F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 087-033-3919 5pm-late | barleybistro.com Hidden up some stairs at the Food Channel, an enclave of franchise-like restaurants, Barley Bistro is slick and snazzy. The design is chic (blacks and greys, white-on-black stencil art); the drinks funky (lychee mojitos, testtube cocktails etc); the food new-fangled (spaghetti kimchi etc); and the clientele wholesome (Thai office workers mostly). Do check out the open-air rooftop. It’s littered with cooling fans, huge bean bags and funky barleystalk sculptures and good for postwork/ pre-club cocktails.
BREW [map 3/Q6] Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 02-185-2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am It wasn’t so long ago that the beer selection here was comprised entirely of the ubiquitous local lagers and the Heinekens and Carlsbergs of this world. The fact that it doesn’t anymore is largely thanks to Chris Foo, the owner of this beer bar tucked away on the ground floor of Thonglor Soi 13’s happening mini-mall Seenspace. Depending on what time of year it is, Brew stocks between 140 and 170 bottles of ales, lagers, ciders, you name it. Currently, the setting in which you sip them is hip in Thonglor circles. That’s not so much down to Brew’s tiny interior, with its exposed piping and bar flanked by kegs of beer and brick walls, as the buzzing outdoor area it shares with futuristic cocktail bar Clouds and the nautically themed Fat’r Gutz. 92 | M A RCH 2014
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Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little sub-soi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed nightspots Q Bar and the other newer spots that have cropped up recently.
CLOUDS [Map 3/Q2] 1F SeenSpace, 251/1 Thong Lor Soi 13, 02-185-2365 | cloudslounge.com The third bar by Australian Ashley Sutton – the mad scientist of Bangkok’s bar scene – is, as we’ve come to expect, something entirely unexpected. Evoking a future where ‘there are no more natural resources’, this slim concrete shell at the rear of hip lifestyle mall SeenSpace has a living tree encased in glass in one corner, and concrete blocks, topped with lumps of translucent leafencasing acrylic, for tables. Vodka-based cocktails (B 280) by New York mixultant Joseph Boroski are prepped by ‘NASA technicians’ in white overalls; and the food offerings tasty misshapen pizzas, cooked in a gas-oven behind the bar.
FACE BANGKOK (map3/S7) 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 02-713-6048 facebars.com | 11.30am-1am Jim Thompson, move over. Face’s visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim’s former mansion, with Ayutthaya-style buildings and thriving flora, it’s just bigger and bolder. The Face Bar is a dimly-lit place that summons deluxe drinkers with its cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails. Though often empty, the big drink list will stop your body clock pretty fast. The two restaurants – Hazara serving Northern Indian and Lan Na Thai serving traditional Thai – are full of fab all-Asian decor; they’re romantic and inviting, but you might be let down by the tiny portions, and the flamboyant prices.
FAT GUT’Z [map 3/Q2] 264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 02-7149-832 fatgutz.com | 6pm-2am This sleek saloon is packed nightly with
Clouds beautiful people, there to listen to live blues, indulge in carefully crafted drinks, and, perhaps, catch a glimpse of its in-demand owner, Ashley Sutton, the Australian behind the legendary Iron Fairies. Unlike his first bar, Fat Gut’z displays a less obvious sense of whimsy – here, the random fittings and industrial decor are replaced by straight lines and black-coloured, modern furnishings. It all feels rather serious, until you open the drinks menu. Sutton brought in master New York mixologist Joseph Boroski to create 16 unique cocktails (B285 each), all named after famous WWII shipwrecks.
FIVE Gastronomy & Mixology [MAP 3/O9]
Room 103, K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26 088-524-5550 | facebook.com/fivebkk 6pm-1am Five brings a welcome wand blast of gothic whimsy to K Village, an otherwise aesthetically uninspiring community mall. Its owner, Pattriya Na Nakorn, invited bar entrepreneur Ashley Sutton to work his magic with a vacant plot on the ground floor. And, completing her dream team is Joseph Boroski, the same New York based cocktail ‘mixologist’ that Sutton uses. His bars always engage the day-dreamy part of your brain and this black magic themed one is no different. Think clanking pulleys, monumental iron piping and flickering candles. Indeed, even the staff look like they’ve stumbled off the set of one of the Harry Potter movies.
HOUSE OF BEERS [map 3/r6] Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 02-392-3513 | 11am-midnight If you fancy something that suits your palate a little more than the limited selection of Thai beers, there are ubiquitous, crowded “Irish” and “British” theme pubs or several sprawling German beer gardens around town. But the most varied and numerous quality beers in the world are brewed in bangkok101.com
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listings – and they are just decoration – are the leggy cabaret girls. Every evening at about 9pm about half a dozen walk out from behind a velvet curtain and proceed to fan themselves on swings.
N IGHTLI FE
Maggie Choo’s
Moose [MAP 3/S3]
Hyde & Seek Belgium – and it’s been that way since Belgian monasteries started doing so in the Middle Ages.House of Beers, in the corner of Penny’s Balcony on Thong Lo, offers all sorts of them, from pale ales, like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden, to esoteric, doubly fermented specials, like Kwak, plus fruit beers.
HYDE & SEEK [Map 4/L5] 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee 02-168-5152 | 11am-1am | hydeandseek.com This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pickmeup cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgian-influenced décor has panelled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini-maze of tea plants.
maggie choo’s [MAP 5/c5] Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd 02-635-6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos Tues-Sun 6pm-2am From the Victorian steam-punk of Iron Fairies to the eco-futurism of Clouds, Aussie entrepreneur Ashley Sutton has already proved himself as the Terry Gilliam of Bangkok’s bar world, conjuring up drinking hole after drinking hole shot through with a magical realist quality. Maggie Choo’s, with its decadent atmosphere redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens, is no different. Clomp down the staircase and you find yourself in a noodle bar. One that could pass for an old Shaw Brothers movie set. The main decoration bangkok101.com
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Ekamai Soi 21 | 02-108-9550 facebook.com/moosebangkok Tucked away behind Tuba and up a shabby looking staircase, Moose is one of the most talked about new bars in the city. The same team behind Cosmic Café and Sonic have revamped this warehouse-sized space into the latest retro-inspired hipster bar. Brick walls, a small tree here and there, flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads create a relaxed, living-room-esque ambience. A DJ spins unobtrusive tunes while authentic and delicious Thai food, such as salted pork neck (150 baht) and southern style curry (B160) ensures the bar consistently draws a young, local crowd who know their food.
OSKAR BISTRO [map 3/D5] 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255 3377 4pm-2am; kitchen open until 11.30pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby; and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. The food choice includes sandwiches, the Oskar burger (wagyu beef – what else?), pizzas and a section of cocottes. Almost all are under B300, which for food of this surprising quality is a steal. Most people come here though not for the food but for a pre-club libation: be it glass of wine (from B145 a glass), imported beer, or reasonably priced cocktail.
SALT [MAP 8/L7] Soi Ari (near Soi 4) | 02-619-6886 6pm-midnight Worth heading to Soi Ari for, Salt is a hipster-luring gastro bar with a post-modern finish. Seating is either out on an outdoor terrace or in a minimalist concrete shell – a former condominium sales office no less – with a bar at the far end and lots of raw marble, stone and wooden furniture. Behind them sits an old wooden house which is used to project digital animations on and offers extra seating. This is the sort of ubertrendy space that the editors of Wallpaper* and other design bibles kneel down and kiss the floor at, but what makes Salt is the global cuisine that’s coming out the kitchen, from fresh sashimi platters to generously dressed thin-crust pizzas.
SHADES OF RETRO [ Map 8/s14] Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor 081-824-8011 | 3pm-1am Hipster attic, here we come – Shades of Retro is a hidden Thong Lor spot awash in neo-nostalgia and stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, old rotary telephones. A combo furniture storecafé,Shades provides a quiet hangout for for the writer/designer/artiste crowd by day, funpeople-watching at night, and nice jazz at all times. Curl up on a nubby couch, flip through a Wallpaper* magazine and soak up the atmosphere, which flirts with being too ironic for its pants. A cool, friendly crowd and bracing cocktails or coffee served up with popcorn humanises the hip.
TUBA [Map 8/S14] 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 02-711-5500 design-athome.com | 11am-2am Owned by the same hoarders behind furniture warehouse Papaya, Tuba is a Bangkok classic: room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch, all of which you’re free to skulk through at your leisure. Some come here to snag a comfy sofa, retro sign or goofy tchotchke. Others come for the big menu of Italian and Thai dishes tweaked for the local palate. But for us, it works best as a bar, as the setting and generous happy hours (buy one get one free between 5-8pm daily) mean there really are few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand (or two hands in some cases.
VIVA AVIV [map 5/C2] River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 02-639-6305 vivaaviv.com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Situated in some prime real estate along the river, Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade, inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic M A RCH 2014 | 93
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listings LIVE MUSIC ADHERE the 13TH [Map 7/G3]
Water Library meets dashes of outright whimsy. While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic look, the bar was initially looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek. Their ‘Rough Cut’ Signatures are among the real highlights here. Many are pleasingly heavy on the rum and perfect for sipping while watching life on the Chao Praya.
Water Library @ Grass Grass Thong Lor, 264/1 Thong Lor Soi 12 02-714-9292 | Mon-Sat 6.30pm-1am Aside from its upmarket, inventive set menu dining on the first floor restaurant, The Water Library also has three lounge and wine bar areas downstairs with funky food, cocktails and live music at not audacious prices. A set menu of three cocktails paired with tapas bites at B790 is a pleasant surprise to many, and their wine list starts at a mere B900 a bottle. Water Library is one-to-watch on the regional drinking and dining scene. The very talented mixologist Mirko Gardelliano was Germany’s Cocktail Champion in 2003, while the wine bar chef Urs Lustenberger worked with Michelin three star chef Juan Amador.
WTF [Map 3/Q6] 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 02- 626-6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am This tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. Expect live gigs, art exhibitions upstairs and an eclectic mixture of hipsters, journos and scenesters. 94 | M A RCH 2014
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13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) 089-769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments. It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except forthe Chang beer. North of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), this down-to-earth, bohemian hang-out packs ’em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais, expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’. The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match.
COSMIC CAFE [Map 8/Q12] RCA Block C | Rama IX Rd | MRT Rama 9 The rebel in RCA’s ranks, Cosmic Café serves up a mixed diet of sonic eclecticism in a grungy, open-sided corner bar with outdoor seating and a small dance floor. On one night you might the place jumping to a rare live performance by mor lam legend Dao Bandon, on another a house band dishing out some surf guitar, ska, electronic or blues. The edgiest joint on the block, it draws a lively, musically discerning crowd, from skinny jeaned artschool hipster types to teddy boy expats.
TAWANDAENG GERMAN BREWERY [MAP 2/E11]
462/61 Rama III Rd | 02- 678-1114 tawandang.co.th The one place that every taxi driver seems to know, this vast, barrel-shaped beer hall packs in the revelers nightly. They come for the towers of micro-brewed beer, the Thai, Chinese and German grub (especially the deep-fried pork knuckle and sausage), and, not least, the famous Fong Nam houseband. It’s laidback early on, but by 10pm, when the Thai/Western pop, luk krung and mor lam songs are at full pelt, everybody is on their feet and the place going bananas.
Jazz clubs BAMBOO BAR [Map 5/B4] The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave 02-659-9000 | mandarinoriental.com Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in one of
Brown Sugar the city’s most sophisticated hotels, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style. Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s never theless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident songstress, Cynthia Utterbach and a cracking house band that really knows its stuff.
Brown Sugar [Map 7/J5] 469 Phrasumen Rd | 089-499-1378 brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Little over a month after it closed down, one of Bangkok’s oldest cosiest jazz venue was back with a new, bigger location near Khao San. Now a restaurant and coffee house by day, it morphs into a world-class, jazz café-style haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw an audience of locals and visitors by night. Its exterior is impressive, resembling a ritzy old cinema house. And inside, it’s huge, with a daytime coffeeshop up front, a versatile 200-seater ‘Playhouse’ upstairs, and the big, open-plan jazz pub and restaurant out back.
Niu’s on Silom [Map 5/E5] 2F 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style lounge – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for various international acts who perform regularly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring established overseas visitors. Niu’s is still casual and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concer to Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available. consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. bangkok101.com
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it’s happened to be a closet By Gaby Doman
x C
By Gaby Doman
xxxxx xxxxxx xxxxx xxx xxx xxx lashing prints is the name of the game when it comes to the latest collection by It’s Happened To Be A Closet. Graphic, busy prints with a distinctively hippy-dippy available at: of billowing harem pants, roomy shirts, feel adorn a collection kaftans, pretty A-line dresses and slinky-fit trousers. xxx The result is a collection that’s bold and beautiful. If you’ve gotxxx the fashion guts to layer your look and don’t mind wearing a splash xxx of tie-dye over the top of some heavy checks, then it’s a stunning range. If, however, you’re not so skilled in piling xxxweb on the pattern, there is real potential that you’ll end up looking as though you rolled out of a commune and straight into Khao San Rd. Mastering the art of clashing prints and still managing to look like you know what you’re doing is a very tricky skill. But, if you can acheive it, you’ll look truly enviable to those with lesser fashion pairing skills. Remember, you don’t want a migraine-inducing cacophony – it helps to wear some really fabulous earring or have a perfectly coiffed hairdo. Glossy finishing touches are everything when it comes to avoiding the dreadlocked backpacker look. Just as the patterns aren’t subtle, the colour palette also makes a statement. Rich, earthy tones such as burnt orange, rusty red and stormy blues give the collection a distinctly plush feel, and accents of graphic-printed monochromes provide a little punctuation. The effect is a little bit ‘Ibiza hippy’ – think off-duty Jade Jagger – eccentric and moneyed. So many layers and patterns in one collection give it a very textural, vintage feel. The shop almost has the atmosphere of an upscale thrift store. Unlike many fashion collections, this one is designed to be comfortable. The designs are simple and everything is made with swathes of fabric and generous cuts to ensure you can move freely or, perhaps ‘float’ freely is more accurate, considering the Earth Mother nature of the collection.
available at: Emporium (622 Sukhumvit Rd, 0815-652-026) Paragon (Rama 1 Rd, 0815-652-028) facebook.com/happenedtobe
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SHOPPING
jj gem
the sleveless garden You may get lost trying to find this one-year-old boutique, but it’s worth persevering just to get a look at its stylish products catering to the bookish end of the hip young Thai crowd. One of many little jewels in Bangkok’s growing retro fashion crown, The Sleeveless Garden traffics in boxy leather shoulder bags. All are made entirely from organic cow hide and, instead of frilly embellishments or over-the-top designs, boast a backto-school look that appeals to college students and young working creatives (sorry Dad). Behind the designs are architecture grad Lin and two friends, all young Thai style-makers with a penchant for classic designs. A concept that they call “style from experience” influences each one, as do touches (think elegant stitch lines and old fashioned buckles) lifted from satchels and bags they admire from around the world, especially the Land of the Rising Sun and Europe. The resulting collection is dapper to the core with nifty, wellproportioned designs that come in a range of sizes.
The Sleeveless Garden Room 018, Section 4 Soi 47/1 thesleevelessgarden.com | Sat-Sun 10am-10pm
Jatujak Market
Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix. 98 | M A RCH 2014
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> The Jatujak market of Bangkok Amber House Books | hardcover | B1,950
The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual inter pretation of Bangkok’s world-famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. bangkok101.com
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unique boutique
T
SHOPPING
Classic Movie Posters
hough little more than a glorified broom-cupboard, this Siam Square shop is home to the biggest and best collection of retro Thai movie posters in all Thailand. There’s no table in here – there isn’t room for one. Instead its owner, the smiley Mr Santi, improvises by plonking you on a stool facing him and stretching plyboard across both our knees. Once wedged in place, out comes his stash, accumulated via years of tips-offs and plundering old cinemas. And what a stash. Spanning all the way from cut-and-paste photo posters from the 1950s to the generic Western-style movie posters of today, it’s a wonder this lot hasn’t already been snapped for safe-keeping by the Thai Film Archive. Their loss, your gain. Highlights include a little two-tone Nang Kwak poster from 1958, and one-sheets for Kurosawa’s Seven Samurai and Coppola’s Apocalypse Now. The latter is debatably the creative high watermark of Thailand’s distinctive painted poster style; a style which saw Thai artists being commissioned to paint all the juicy scenes from each film in to one lurid, technicolour, pull-you-in montage. The foyers they used to hang in are mostly dust now, but seek out this ickle obscurity and you can give them a proud new home. If you think the prices steep, work that smile and see if Mr Santi won’t cut you a deal. Classic Movie Posters [MAP4 / c5] Siam Square Soi 2, near Lido Theatre (behind 7eleven) 02-255-3677 | Mon-Fri 2pm-8pm, Sat-Sun 2pm-7pm
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WELLN ESS
treatment
relaxation on demand U
p until the end of May, a special package is available at the Imperial Queen’s Park Plaza, combining an hour’s treatment at the hotel’s Imperial Spa with a buffet lunch or high tea. It’s B1400 for an aroma oil massage and B2000 for a Jurlique facial. Judging from our visit, both of these would be well worth considering. The Imperial Spa boasts all the usual trimmings associated with this part of the world – down to the Asian pipe music and crisp, low-key decor. It’s clean, comfortable and the staff friendly and polite. So far, so good, albeit quite standard. Some of the treatments, though, are exceptional – and remarkably good value. Take, for example, the full-day retreats (B4000-4500), which includes four hours of pampering in a choice of four different styles. If you’re too busy to spend all day being tenderised, there are of course shorter options as well. The signature treatment, the Imperial Massage (B1900 for 90 minutes) helps with detoxification and ridding the body of pollutants. Let’s face it, we could all do with a bit of that. It also helps increase flexibility, circulation, and enhance the body’s natural recovery. It certainly conjures a feeling of lightness and restored energy. Aside from all that, it’s unbelievably relaxing, the pock-rocket masseuse managing to pound at least a couple of stubborn knots into meek submission.
imperial spa
[MAP 3/M11]
Imperial Queen’s Park Plaza, 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-261-9000 | imperial-spa.com
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treatment
WELLN ESS
soothing and stylish S
hambhala at The Metropolitan has one distinct advantage over many other places – it is an undeniably beautiful set-up. Of course, the whole hotel has a modern, refined design aesthetic, cultivating a sense space and airiness throughout. And that flows through to Shambhala – even the sprawling dressing rooms have a soothing atmosphere. They’ve decided to winnow down the options to a handful of essentials – although you can still branch out into everything from hydradermie lifts and jetlag treatments. The signature Thai massage (B2400 for 75 minutes) is designed to unblock trapped energy and improve vitality. Often referred to as passive yoga, it incorporates yoga-like stretches that loosen joints and balance major muscle groups of the body. As the blurb suggests, there is quite a lot of stretching involved but nothing unduly taxing. There’s still plenty of time to lie around and let someone else do the work. And, certainly, by the all your limbs have been thoroughly manipulated and folded back and forth a few times, you’ll feel that trapped energy positively running amok. And they also do an unbelievable head massage – if only you could order 75 minutes of that alone. Once you’re done, you may find yourself wanting to hang around in Shambhala anyway. That’s how appealing it is.
shambhala
[MAP 5/k8]
The Metropolitan Bangkok, 27 South Sathorn Rd | 02-625-3333 | comohotels.com
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getting there march.book.indb 102
khlong tom market
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RAIL
Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B 39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th
SKYTRAIN (BTS)
Airport Rail Link
The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B 15 to B 55; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th
SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central
railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT
RIVER
EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B 9 to B 32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30 am and 6 pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B 3.
CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B 9 to B19. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.
ROAD BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B 5 and B 7.50 – B 23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).
MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, bangkok101.com
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A 28 km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain. One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150.
motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should be negotiated beforehand.
TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered,
air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B 35 (for the first 2 kms) and the fare climbs in B 2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B 5 or B 10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B 50 surcharge is added.
TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B 40. M A RCH 2014 | 103
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Map 1 Greater Bangkok A
B
Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya Map 2 >
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L MYANMAR
Uthai Thani
1
UTHAI THANI
CHAI NAT
2
Chiang Mai
LOP BURI
Nakhon Ratchasima c
Nakhon Ratchasima
Pattaya CAMBODIA Koh Samet Koh Chang
NAKHON RATCHASIM A
SARABURI
3
Andaman Sea
Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya
Koh Samui
AYUTTHAYA
Phuket
PATHUM THANI 5
b
RATCHABURI
2
MALAYSIA
PRACHIN BURI
f c
1
VIETNAM
Gulf of Thailand
Krabi
NAKHON NAYOK
4
NAKHON PATHOM
Ubon
Bangkok
ANG THONG
KANCHANABURI
Udon Thani
Lop Buri
Kanchanaburi
LAOS
THAILAND
SING BURI
SUPHAN BURI
6
M
3
2
SA KAEO
BANGKOK f a
SAMUT SAKHON
CHACHOENGSAO
SAMUT
1 PRAKAN
SAMUT SONGKHRAM
CA M BODI A CHON BURI
Phetchaburi
7
Ko Sichang
PHETCHABURI 8
Pattaya RAYONG
Cha-am
CHANTHABURI
Rayong Hua Hin
Ko Samet
Muang Chantaburi
9
PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN 10
Trat
Gulf of Thailand
M YA N M A R
Ko Chang
Prachuap Khiri Khan
11
Ko Kut
N
20 km 20 miles Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border
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Sightseeing a
Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park
floating Markets Damnoen Saduak 2 Amphawa 1
Museums 1
Erawan Museum 2 House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods
night bazaar 1
Asiatique The Riverfront [free shuttle boat from Sathorn pier everyday 4.00-11.30 pm.]
Nightlife 1 2
Parking Toys Tawandang German
Hotels 1 Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort and Spa
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Tanya Tanee
PAK KRET
Don Mueng
2
Don Mueng Int. Airport
Ko Kret
Sai Mai
F
Royal Irrigation Dept.
3
Lak Si
F
F
Rajpruek
The Legacy
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Northpark
4
e
Khlong Sam wa
Royal Thai Army Sport Center
F5
1
Thanont
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Chatuchak Bang Sue
Bang Phlat
Bueng Kum
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Huai Khwang
Saphan Sung
Bang Kapi
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Map 3 Sukhumvit Road A
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106 | M A RCH 2014
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13
14
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Long Table 5 Beervault 6 Diplomat Bar 7 The Living Room 8 Cheap Charlie's 9 Barsu 19 WTF 17 Alchemist 18 Club Perdomo
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21 Clouds
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37
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M A RCH 2014 | 107
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Map 4 Siam / Chit Lom A
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108 | M A RCH 2014
march.book.indb 108
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march.book.indb 109
N
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bangkok101.com
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M A RCH 2014 | 109
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Map 6 Yaowarat / Pahurat (Chinatown & Little India ) A
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2/25/14 9:39 AM
Map 7 Rattanakosin (Oldtown) A
B
C
D
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M A RCH 2014 | 111
2/25/14 9:39 AM
M Y B ANGKOK
Manit Sriwanichpoom Manit Sriwanichpoom is a leading Thai photographer and contemporary artist whose work has been widely exhibited around the world. He is most well-known for his Pink Man series which exposes consumerism and the loss of values in modern Thai society. He also owns and operates Kathamandu Photo Gallery (Pan Rd, Bangkok) where he curates exhibitions, conducts research and showcases his own photographs.
Who is the Pink Man? And is he ever coming back? He’s actually a writer named Somphong Thawee. When I saw him perform in the 1990s, I liked how he moved and I liked the anger one could feel buried beneath the surface. He seemed perfect to play a symbolic role representing today’s Thais, and the consumerist mentality that grew in the 80s and 90s. I put him in a pink suit because pink is a colour that’s usually considered quite tasteless. I haven't really thought much about the Pink Man since 2009 or so. He doesn’t look the same now; he has grey hair and has lost weight. But I’m considering translating the image into large 3D sculptures. Imagine a giant Pink Man standing somewhere in the middle of Bangkok. Quite a landmark. I’m looking for funding now.
112 | M A RCH 2014
march.book.indb 112
At your gallery you have exhibited images by forgotten Thai photographers of the past. How did you discover them? When I was invited to teach photography at local universities, I wanted to include the history of photography in Thailand, but found there was very little information available. You can find photos from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and from the mid 1950s till the present. But there is virtually nothing, for example, from the period between 1930 and 1940, when democracy was first developing. So I started asking around and going through old photo collections. Through that, and by word of mouth, I started finding Thai photos and photographers that were somehow lost in our history. Your work is well-known for its political and social commentary. How did you come around to that way of approaching photography? Many of the students I went to university with were from the ‘October generation’ [students
who participated in the October 14, 1973 uprising against the Thanom government], and so there was always lots of political discussion. The ‘art for life’ movement was still strong and that influenced me a lot. Is all art political, even when not intended to be? Everything is political. Even one’s name is political, when you really examine it. When you’re not working, where do you like to go in Bangkok to relax? I don’t really separate leisure time and work life the way many people do. Everything I do involves my work in one way or another. When I have time I like to visit old temples in Thonburi. I get ideas and inspiration from looking at the art and architecture. On the Bangkok side, I really like the original monks’ quarters at Wat Bowonniwet. They’re an interesting blend of Western and local motifs, adapted for the hot and humid climate without need for air conditioning. This represents a knowledge base we should be exploring more, but have forgot about. I also like exploring the outskirts of the city to find what’s left of farming and natural area.
Photo: Matt Burns
How did you become an art photographer? I originally wanted to study architecture, but my entrance exam scores weren’t high enough. So I started majoring visual arts at Srinakarinwirot University, thinking I might take the exams again later. My instructor had just finished an MA in photography in the USA. His work was quite different from what I knew as normal photography. There was a lot of technique and a lot of
thought behind it. I could see that it was something quite deep, so I decided to stick with the camera rather than work with brush or clay.
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2/25/14 9:40 AM
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LOST IN PARADISE | CITY PULSE
Sra Bua | ART
Finding peace in change | SHOPPING It’s
happened to be a closet
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Lost in Paradise L E K K I AT S I R I K A J O R N
march 2014
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LOOKS AT LIFE ON THE FRINGE BETWEEN CITY AND COUNTRY
2/25/14 9:42 AM
bangkok 101
+
march 2014 100 baht
LOST IN PARADISE | CITY PULSE
Sra Bua | ART
Finding peace in change | SHOPPING It’s
happened to be a closet
/SOI11NIGHTLIFE /LEVELSCLUB /QBARBANGKOK /BASHBANGKOK /WAXBANGKOK /VCLUBBANGKOK /LEVELSLATE
Lost in Paradise L E K K I AT S I R I K A J O R N
march 2014
000_cover.indd 1
LOOKS AT LIFE ON THE FRINGE BETWEEN CITY AND COUNTRY
2/25/14 9:42 AM