Bangkok101 Magazine December 2016 by Talisman Media

Publisher’s Letter

his month will be a time for remembrance and celebration in equal quantities. December 5th is the day Thais celebrate Father’s Day, as that is the date on which His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej was born. The King was regarded throughout his reign as the “father of all Thai people”, and this year his birthday will be as much a day to celebrate fathers everywhere as it will be to once again pay respect to the late monarch. In this issue we honour the King by examining the marvelous legacies His Majesty has left the people of Thailand. Our cover story (pg. 38) focusses on the magnificent Royal Projects in Northern Thailand—a legacy that will live on and bring prosperity for generations to come. We also take a look at King Bhumibol’s passion for jazz (pg. 32), his many musical compositions (pg. 64), and his love of sailing (pg. 110). The King’s many accomplishment’s during his remarkable reign remain a source of inspiration to all. By the time you read this the official mourning period for the King will have passed, and life in Bangkok—and across Thailand—will liven up a bit (as the moratorium on festivals, celebrations, and concerts will have been lifted). It will still be a sad time nationwide, but the upcoming Christmas season and the promise of a new year ahead should put a partial smile back on people’s faces. All the content in this issue— as well as our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101.com. A couple Enjoy. of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at: Mason Florence Publisher info@talisman.asia.

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

DECEM BER 2016 | 5

CONTENTS 16

CITY PULSE 10

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

My Bangkok In conversation with Rithee Bunnag, Deputy Director of the Arabica Coffee Department of the Royal Project Foundation

16 20

Best of BKK A dozen delicious pizza possibilities, whether you’re dining out or dining in On The Block Pan Road has become one of the most eclectic of Silom’s many side streets

Property Profile Colonial-era class and Art Deco decadence at The Metropole

Special Report A look back on the Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef events presented by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna

SNAPSHOTS 28

Tom’s Two Satangs On HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej

Bizarre Thailand Excerpt from Jim Algie’s new book, On the Night Joey Ramone Died

Joe’s Bangkok The King’s live musical radio broadcasts

Very Thai Royal Portraits express the Thai sense of identity

36 Heritage The bell has tolled for Hemingway’s Bangkok, one of Sukhumvit Road’s last colonial era mansions

On the cover

Akha hilltribe women seen picking tea leaves on a tea plantation in Chiang Rai, in Northern Thailand (see our full Royal Projects cover story, starting on page 38).

TRAVEL 38

Royal Projects His Majesty’s most everlasting legacy

50 54

Out & About Discovering the Royal Projects with Daniel Fraser and Smiling Albino tours

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand

Island Getaway Daytrip to a paradise known as Koh Kham

ART & CULTURE 58

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

Museum Spotlight The Siriraj Bimuksthan Museum brings medical history to life

64 66

Special Feature HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s musical legacy Cinema Scope Southeast Asian spotlight at the Luang Prabang Film Festival

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | DECEM BER 2016

bangkok101.com

CONTENTS 78

FOOD & DRINK 68

Food & Drink Updates

Meal Deals Amazing festive dining deals for Xmas and NYE

Hot Plates Cantina

Restaurant Reviews Le Du; Morimoto; Eat Me; Blue Elephant; Wine Connection; Uno Mas; Dine in the Dark

Holiday Menus SO Sofitel Bangkok’s holiday events

Breaking Bread with Chefs Thomas and Mathias Sühring

86 88

Eat Like Nym Little Market serves burgers so good you don’t want them to end Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE 94

Nightlife Updates

Bar Reviews Bronx Liquid Parlour

Connoisseur’s Corner Get ready for the Great Wines of Italy presented by James Suckling, Bangkok’s biggest wine event

100

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

LIFE+STYLE 104

Lifestyle Updates

106

Spa Reviews Spa Cenvaree; Prim Nurture Retreat

108

Unique Boutiques Holiday shopping guide

SIGNING OFF 110

Did You Know?... The King loved to sail and even built his own boats

Phen Parkpien Naritha Yonyubon

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Craig Sauers, Tom Vitayakul, Annaliese Watkins

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

ART DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTING

PUBLISHER

Narong Srisaiya

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Mason Florence

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Napan Sevikul

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Thanakrit Skulchartchai

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond STRATEGISTS

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

Parinya Krit-Hat

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

SALES MANAGER

MANAGING EDITOR

Orawan Ratanapratum SALES AND MARKETING

Bruce Scott

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon

EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Jim Algie, Robin Banks, Gary Barber, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwell-Smith, James Austin Farrell, John Krich, Samantha Proyrungtong,

SALES EXECUTIVE

WRITER & DIGITAL EDITOR

Julia Offenberger

PUBLISHED BY

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia

GENERAL MANAGER

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Joe Cummings

Kiattisak Chanchay DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Seri Sartsanapiti

© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2016. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRAL PLAZA LADPRAO BANGKOK IS PUTTING ON BANGKOK’S BEST FESTIVITIES. 24th December Christmas Eve Chatuchak Café Dinner buffet-style Christmas fare - Italian, Asian, grilled, and seafood classics are all on the menu. From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. THB 1,499++ (food only). Don Giovanni For the ultimate Italian Christmas dinner, there’s a special and spectacular à la carte menu. From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Blue Sky Restaurant A festive à la carte menu for a fabulous French-style Christmas Eve dinner. From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. 25th December Christmas Day Chatuchak Café Celebrate Christmas with friends and family at this festive themed brunch and dinner buffet · Christmas Day Brunch Buffet From 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. THB 1,499++ (food only).

· Christmas Day Dinner Buffet From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. THB 1,499++ (food only).

Don Giovanni Celebrate Christmas Day with the irresistible flavors of Italy. From 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Special à la carte menu. Blue Sky Restaurant Make the most of Noel French-style with Chef Eric Berrigaud’s fabulous Christmas Day feast. From 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Special à la carte menu.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND RESERVATION T: 02 541 1234 EXT. 4151 | E: fb_office@chr.co.th centarahotelsresorts.com/cglb

CITY PULSE | metro beat

WINE EVENT

LIVE THEATRE Starting December 2

This month the Bangkok Community Theatre is presenting Aladdin, done in classic British pantomime style. Based on the ancient Arabian folktale, in which poor boy Aladdin finds a genie in a magic lamp, the show promises to be a fun-filled spectacle. There are afternoon matinee shows on both Saturdays at 2:30pm, while Sunday the 4th and 11th have matinees at 1:30pm and 6:30pm. The shows take place at M Theatre (2884/2 New Petchaburi Rd), and tickets are B950 (includes a drink and a mince pie). Tickets for children under 13 are B700 (matinees only). www.bangkokcommunitytheatre.com

SPORTING EVENT December 5

Join in on the big Run for King 2016 marathon event, which takes place at Lumphini Park. The race, which also commemorates the birthday of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, will begin at 5:30am and participants can choose either the 10.5k run—a course that travels in and around the park area—or the 2k walk. To register, or to find out more info, visit the official Facebook page. www.facebook.com/ runforkingpage

10 | DECEM BER 2016

December 9

Wine lovers get set for the 5th edition of the Great Wines of Italy event, presented by James Suckling at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok (494 Rajdamri Rd). This is the region’s largest premium wine event featuring the best wineries and wines of Italy from more than 80 prestigious Italian brands and boutique wineries. All wineries and wines showcased have been hand-selected by James Suckling, the world-famous wine critic, for their quality and character, reaching top scores of 90 points and above. Tickets are B1,299 (read our exclusive interview with James Suckling on pg. 98).

LIVE MUSIC EVENTS December 2

When it comes to strange tales of life on the road for a struggling rock group, few can compare to the journey currently being undertaken by Expedition Voskhod, who will be performing at Jam (41 Soi Rong Nam Kang) this month. Their chaotic caravan consists of a band, a cinematographer, and an artist, all of whom teamed up to drive their two old Soviet-era Volga cars on a 24,000 km route through Asia. “Our adventure will be filled with live gigs, creative collaborations, and exciting encounters,” says Ilya, the leader and mastermind of this project. Showtime is 9pm and tickets are B200 (includes a drink). www.facebook.com/expvoskhod

December 4

Fans of legendary indie band Yo La Tengo (their name is Spanish for “I have it”) are eagerly anticipating the arrival of these American alt icons. The concert, which takes place at VoiceSpace (Vibhavadi Rangsit Frontage Rd), is being presented as part of the Singha Light Live Series. Hailing from Hoboken, New Jersey, the band began life back in 1984 as a husband/wife duo—Ira Kaplan and Georgia Hubley—before adding two more members into the final line-up. Over the years the band has released more than a dozen studio albums, incorporating everything from folk, garage, noise rock, shoegaze, indie rock, and dream pop into their tunes. They often get compared to the Velvet Underground, and were chosen to play them in the 1996 movie I Shot Andy Warhol. Don’t miss this rare chance to see Yo La Tengo live in concert. Showtime is 8pm and tickets are B1,500. www.ticketmelon.com bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | metro beat

MOVIE SCREENINGS

The Space In Between

Starting December 1

ITALIAN FESTIVAL December 18

The year-long Italian Festival in Thailand ends on a high note this month—a very high note—when the Sala Sudasiri Sobha (158/20, Ladprao 41) presents a Night at the Italian Opera. Famous Italian tenor David Sotgiu and maestro Nat Yontararak will perform a marvelous duo, in a musical performance that begins at 4:30pm (admission is free). www.ambbangkok.esteri.it

HOLIDAY DINNER December 15

Set aside this evening for the Christmas Charity Dinner taking place in the 21st floor Crowne Ballroom at the Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park. The dinner—which is copresented by the Thai-Italian Chamber of Commerce—will be raising funds for the children living with disabilities at Camillian Home, in Latkrabang. The tickets for this amazing fourcourse Italian meal are B3,500 each, and the dress code theme is white, gold, and blue. The evening’s festivities get underway at 6pm. For reservations, or more information, email: pr.camillian@gmail.com. www.christmascharitydinner.com 12 | DECEM BER 2016

The Bangkok Screening Room has lots of interesting screening selections this month, starting with The Space In Between, in which performance artist Marina Abramovic travels through Brazil in search of personal healing and artistic inspiration, experiencing sacred rituals and revealing her creative process (various screening times, Dec. 1-13). Another very non-mainstream film screening this month is Embrace of the Serpent, a blistering and poetic film by Ciro Guerra inspired by the real-life journals of two explorers who travelled through the Colombian Amazon in search of the sacred and psychedelic Yakruna plant (various screening times, Dec. 1-10). Finally, an intriguing Thai film this month is Lovesucks, a romantic comedy-drama from director, Manatsanun Phanlerdwongsakul (screening, Dec. 2-10). www.bkksr.com

ART EXHIBITIONS December 15

The Centara Grand Hotel at CentralWorld (999/99 Rama 1 Rd) is getting into the art scene this month with a show entitled Mikey’s Vie en Rose. The 19-year old Mikey has chosen a “pink period” theme, infusing a rose-tinted flavour into his dreamlike, sometimes nightmarish, visions of a haunted world. Born Michael Jiraros, the youngster had a dramatic childhood in the North of Thailand, eventually ending up orphaned and alone. Through a series of events his work came to attention of Somtow Sucharitkul. Mikey now works out of a private studio in Somtow’s house and plans to continue his studies at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna. The exhibition will be opened by H.E. The Ambassador of Austria, and start time is 5pm.

Until March 14

The world-famous photojournalist Steve McCurry, best known for his “Afghan Girl” portrait—often regarded as one of National Geographic’s most iconic front covers—will launch a four-month-long exhibition dubbed A Lifetime of Work, featuring the best portraits from throughout his career. The exhibition, held at the newly opened House of Lucie gallery (1, Ekkamai Soi 8) will include both large- and small-scale portraits that McCurry has captured around the world across numerous international and civil conflicts, including several that have never before been exhibited. www.facebook.com/HouseofLucie

Photo by Steve McCurry

David Sotgiu

bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | my bangkok

Ritthee Bunnag

A humble hero, with a Thai-French ancestry, Ritthee Bunnag has been instrumental in the success of the Royal Projects in Northern Thailand, especially the coffee growing portion. In this interview, Ritthee talks about his goodwill work, his inspiration, and his views on life in Bangkok.

Many Bangkok restaurants and cafés use Royal Project produce. How do chefs and restaurateurs go about getting involved? They can order directly from our sales department, by calling 02 579 4747 (email: mkt.bkk@royalprojectthailand. com). They can also visit our flagship store in Bangkok at Aor Tor Kor Market in the Chatuchak area, or they’re welcome to check out our website at www.royalprojectthailand.com.

t’s not every day you get the chance to meet a modern day hero, especially when that person tends to shy away from publicity. The humble hero in question here is Ritthee Bunnag, the Deputy Director of the Arabica Coffee Department of the Royal Project Foundation. Ritthee has volunteered for the Royal Project Foundation for nine years now, and his contribution has been instrumental in maintaining a better livelihood for the hilltribe people of Northern Thailand. Tell us a bit about yourself. I was born to a Thai father and French mother. I was studying in Thailand until I was 15 years old, and then I did high school in France and university in England. I currently live in Bangkok, and go to Chiang Mai for work twice a month. I’m a volunteer, working as Deputy Director of the Arabica Coffee Department, Royal Project Foundation. How, and when, did you get involved with the Royal Projects? About ten years ago I had a chance to visit Doi Ang Khang in Chiang Mai. I was impressed by the hilltribe people who used to grow opium, but became organic vegetable farmers. They live a happier life now, with a sincere smile on their faces. After that, I started helping a friend, who is working for the Royal Project Foundation, improving the menu and the management of a restaurant at the Royal Agricultural Station Ang Khang. Since that project was successful, the Chairman of the Royal Project Foundation gave me a chance to work in the Arabica Coffee Department. It has already been about nine years since I began work there. What are your main roles and duties? To give to the farmers both the knowledge and the techniques about 14 | DECEM BER 2016

Of the Bangkok restaurants using Royal Project produce, do you have any particular favourites? Three that spring to mind right away are Sühring, Fillets, and Quince. how to produce a good quality coffee crop. I also ensure that we buy the coffee from the farmers at a fair price, and work to sell the green coffee beans and roasted coffee to our customers. Are there some Royal Project items being grown/cultivated that might surprise people? Since the beginning the Royal Projects have been set up to eliminate opium production by encouraging farmers to grow temperate crops. Most of the crops grown in the Royal Project area did not exist in Thailand before. We did all the research in order to be able to produce viable crops, and we extended this knowledge to the farmers. Now the hilltribes can produce about 200 kinds of vegetables, 30 varieties of fruits, and 20 different kinds of herbs. Some examples, that you might not associate with Thailand, include artichoke, rhubarb, beetroot, mizuna leaves, vanilla, cape gooseberry, and blueberries, as well as farmed animals such as pheasants, crayfish, and even sturgeon to make caviar.

What are some of your other favourite spots in Bangkok? I like to go to Lumphini Park in the early morning for jogging. I like any peaceful places with lots of big trees. Bangkok needs more green spaces. Do the Royal Projects also impact the lives of the city people of Bangkok? Supporting what the Royal Projects produce means that you are helping the hilltribes to conserve and better cultivate the nature of Northern Thailand. In addition, all the fruits and vegetables produced by the hilltribes in the Royal Project area have the Global Good Agriculture Practice certificate. By consuming these goods, it makes Bangkok people healthier. What does the future hold, both for yourself and for the Royal Projects? I will continue to work for the Royal Project Foundation as long as I can. I believe that the concept of Alternative Development could improve the livelihood of hilltribes and all Thai people. interview by Samantha Proyrungtong bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Pizza Popularity

Bangkok’s passion for pizza appears to know no bounds. Here now, in no particular order, are a dozen delicious variations on this irresistible Italian classic that should not be missed!

Il Bolognese

Pizza Massilia The spacious dining room here features faux fireplaces, baby-blue walls, baroque furniture, and ornate chandeliers—making one think more of Nice than Naples. But co-owner Luca Apino (of La Bottega di Luca) has also imported two massive pizza ovens from Italy to make sure the flavours of his homeland remain authentic. The pies, starting from B270, include some pretty creative concoctions—such as rich sea urchin doused in salty-sweet yellow tomato sauce—but even the simpler selections are supremely satisfying. Try the Buffalina (B490), for an understated mix of creamy Salerno buffalo mozzarella, basil, and extra virgin olive oil. And to think it all started as a pizza truck!

The covered patio here allows for outdoor dining, but it’s the low-lit interior that is most inviting—a classic trattoria layout, rustically furnished with dark wood and wood-fired pizza oven in one corner. The approach to food is equally authentic, employing top-quality produce (much of it imported), expertly prepared with an emphasis on bold flavours. Pizza connoisseurs will appreciate the artisanal dough, slow-matured for 72 hours, resulting in a crust that is “thick on the edges but thin inside”. The Parma & Stracciatella (B590) combines Parma ham, buratta cheese and rocket leaves on a special rosemary bread crust, while the Pescatore (B520) presents an array of squid and mussels, and one large scampi, a top of a bed of mozzarella and tangy tomato sauce. 139/3, Sathorn Soi 7 | Tel: 02 286 8805 www.ilbolognesebangkok.com

15/1 Soi Ruam Ruedi | Tel: 02 651 5091 www.pizzamassilia.com 16 | DECEM BER 2016

bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Salt Although it doesn’t specialize in Italian cuisine per se—it also doles out plenty of sushi and sashimi, as well as French-inspired bistro fare—this stylish but laidback indoor/outdoor neighbourhood bar in Ari has a fabulous wood-fired pizza oven and serves up some mighty tasty pies. The thin crusts are imbued with wonderful aromas of burning wood, and the pizzas come in two different sizes. Try a homemade Italian sausage pizza (B250/350) if you’re feeling traditional, or a Carbonara pizza (B280/350), made with smoked bacon, egg and parmesan, if you’re feeling experimental. You might also want to splurge for one of their addictive Smoked salmon and chili pizzas (B300/400). 111/2, Phahonyothin Soi 7 Tel: 02 619 6886 www.saltbangkok.com

La Scala This decidedly high-end resto (located in a decidedly high-end hotel) might not be the first place that comes to mind when talking about pizza, but they have both the wood-fired oven, and the expertise, to craft some magnificent gourmet pies. Their signature Schiacciatina Pizza (B790) is truly a “try before you die” dish. Parma ham, arugula, sliced tomatoes, and mascarpone cheese are combined inside a horizontally sliced circular loaf of warm pizza bread and then baked until the outer crust is crispy and slightly charred on both sides. The end result—piled six slices high on the serving plate—somewhat resembles a “pizza sandwich”.

Pala Pizza Romana To outsiders it might seem odd that one of the city’s favourite pizza joints is located under the BTS platform at Asoke station, but once you try their deliciously addictive pizza al taglio— baked in meter long slabs in a narrow oven and sold by the slice, half-meter, or full meter—no mystery remains. With more than a dozen different pizza options to choose from (B45-B105 for slices), including vegetarian and vegan varieties, it’s also no mystery why the owners opened a second branch on the first floor of the CP Tower on Silom Road last year to keep up with the demand. Delivery also available. Tel: 02 259 1228 (Asoke) Tel: 02 638 3440 (Silom) www.palapizzabangkok.com

Sfizio

It seems like since the day they opened—back in August of 2014—the line-ups have never stopped at this informal yet elegant eatery. Famous for making true Neapolitan-style pizza in a wood fired oven (8” and 13”), the crispy crusts and tangy San Marzano tomato sauce on the pies here deliver a true taste of Naples. Even the simplest pizzas, such as, the Napoletana (B260/380), and the Caprese (B250/360) are enough to satisfy the toughest critics. This recipe for success has led the owners to open three more locations in Bangkok, and one in the new Bluport Mall in Hua Hin.

This consummate neighbourhood trattoria—complete with paper tablecloths, black and white tile floor, and images of Italy on the walls—could be effortlessly transplanted to Italy and not miss a beat. The pizza dough here is made in traditional fashion, using imported Italian flour and a touch of yeast before being left to mature for 72 hours. The 4 Stagioni (B300), smothered with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, ham, artichokes, bell peppers and olives, is reason enough to visit. In short, Sfizio represents a definite ‘must’ for anyone seeking authentic Italian dining in a casual setting.

27/1, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Tel: 02 119 7677 www.peppinabkk.com

44/4, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 262 0405 www.facebook.com/sfiziobkk

GF, Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 www.sukhothai.com

Peppina

bangkok101.com

DECEM BER 2016 | 17

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Via Vai The Neapolitan menu here offers a nice slice of old world authenticity, but the dough is what makes these pizzas really stand out—it’s soft where it needs to be, and crispy in all the right places. There are more than 20 custom pies to choose from, including vegetarian options and white pizzas (no tomato sauce). Try the Instagram-worthy Pizza Via Vai (B430), on which cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, ricotta, and gorgonzola are layered with grilled zucchini and rocket salad, while a teepee of Parma ham wrapped around breadsticks rises up out of the dough like an edible Tower of Pisa. Delivery also available. 25, Sukhumvit Soi 8 Tel: 02 253 1200 www.viavaibkk.com

Bella Napoli Some have levelled complaints against this place stating that everything from the uniforms to the background music hasn’t changed since the 80s, but since the solid (and affordable) Italian menu hasn’t changed much either… that’s a good thing! All their pizzas are huge—thin-crusted and baked in a stone oven—with prices ranging from B250 to B350. Try the popular Venice Pizza (B340) which features a “bridge” of Parma ham laid over two bent breadsticks. As wonderfully cheesey as the pizza underneath. 3/3, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 02 259 0405 www.facebook.com/ bellanapoli.bkk

Ciao Pizza As the new kid on the block—having only been open since October of this year—this casual but stylish trattoria is up against some stiff competition. Thankfully, Chef Gerardo Calabrese’s classic thin-crust pizzas—using twice-risen pizza dough—are cooked to perfection in a hybrid wood-fire oven that sits right by the front window. The compact menu offers 15 custom pies, including the chef’s special Croccante Burrata Crudo E Rucola (B555), which comes piled high with Burrata cheese, rocket salad, Parma ham and generous shavings of Parmesan. Delivery is also available. 25, Sukhumvit Soi 8 Tel: 02 253 1200 www.facebook.com/ciaobkk 18 | DECEM BER 2016

DELICIOUS DELIVERY PIZZA DAY: This pizza delivery service, located on Naradhiwas Soi 17, specializes in authentic Italian wood-fired pizzas that go thin on the crust but thick on the toppings. Owner Flavio Bergamasco (formerly of Vino and Opus), insists on using only the finest imported and locally grown 100 percent organic ingredients for his authentic pies, and you can definitely taste the difference. There’s over 40 pizzas to choose from—including 17 vegetarian options—but the Prosciutto Crudo di Parma (B390), made with tomato sauce, mozzarella, stracchino sweet cheese, and Parma ham, is a definite stand out. Also recommended is the Salsiccia Piccante (B340), which features mozzarella and chunks of spicy Italian sausage. Customers can also take advantage of the ‘2 pizzas and 1 salad for B699’ deal that is currently running (downtown delivery charge B40). Open daily: 11am-11pm Tel: 02 287 3488 www.pizzadaybkk.com

Salsiccia Piccante

GALLERY PIZZA: This unique concept pizzeria—an art gallery out front and a pizza kitchen in the back—has been helping Bangkok’s after-midnight crowd quell their late night pizza cravings since launching back in February of this year. Located on Sathorn Soi 11, behind the Sathorn 11 Art Space, they deliver their hot tasty pizzas far and wide. There are more than a dozen pies to choose from, but unless you’re a vegetarian you can’t go wrong with the New Yorker (B385) topped with mozzarella, pepperoni, Italian sausage, and black olives. In addition, Gallery Pizza also supports the Thai art community by providing employment opportunities to their resident artists. Their ‘2 pizzas for B499’ deal is still going strong (downtown delivery charge B40), and plans are underfoot to open a proper sit-down restaurant very soon. Open daily: 11am-4am New Yorker Pizza Tel: 02 041 1044 www.gallerypizzabkk.com bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | on the block

Luka Café & Casa Pagoda

Sri Maha Mariamman Hindu temple

Mikys Cocktail Bar

Perusing Pan Road

The stretch of roadway known as ‘Thanon Pan’ has become one of Silom’s most eclectic side streets By Julia Offenberger

t may not be long—anchored by the Embassy of the Union of Myanmar on Sathorn Road at one end, and Silom Road’s Sri Maha Mariamman Hindu temple at the other—but the connecting street known as Thanon Pan has been, among other things, a long-time favourite for fans of vegetarian Indian food. Nowadays however, with galleries, coffee shops, and bars moving in, this tree-lined road is drawing a somewhat hipper and more cosmopolitan crowd. One of the first buildings you’ll encounter, coming from the south end of the street (at Sathorn Rd), is Sethiwan Tower which is home to Launchpad, an 800+ sq.m modern co-working space, with high-speed internet, private offices, and different sized meeting rooms. Other facilities include a recreation area, with sofas, video games, and ping pong tables, and the in-house café Brush, which provides everyone their much needed daily caffeine kick. 20 | DECEM BER 2016

For more caffeine, and seriously good grub, head across the street to Luka Café & Casa Pagoda. This concept space combines an eclectic furnishing store—Casa Pagoda—showcasing stylish and timeless interiors inspired by European industrial design, with a cozy, cool coffee shop—Luka Café—serving modern Western comfort food using local and organic ingredients. Favourite menu items include the savoury French toast (B250) with bacon from Sloane’s, and the Grilled cheese sandwich (B210), with sautéed mushroom, chorizo, and raspberry ketchup. Coffee lovers will appreciate that they use Thai grown beans, while tea lovers will find and extensive selection of single origin and blended imported teas from Malou Tea Atelier. While Luka is a great brunch spot, the place to go for a fancy dinner is two houses over at Opus. Nestled at the back of a short sub-soi, this Italian wine bar and restaurant (open since 2009) serves up fine Italian cuisine bangkok101.com

on the block | CITY PULSE completed by an impressive wine list. One of the latest additions to Pan Road is Mikys Cocktail Bar, located just in front of Opus. Helmed by Italian mixologist Michele Montauti (previously of J. Boroski, and House on Sathorn), this new nightlife hotspot features a streetside outdoor courtyard area, and a lengthy backlit bar where the expert staff concoct creative cocktails. Another recent opening, hidden down another small sub-soi, is Le Blanc bakery. With freshly baked goods ranging from walnut and raisin breads, to classics such as Danish pastries, croissants, and baguettes, this very popular Japanese-run bakery was an instant hit in its new location (having moved from its previous home on Sukhumvit Soi 39). For healthier food and lifestyle options walk back to Pan Rd, cross to the opposite side, and look for the leafy residential sub-soi that is home to Suananda Vegetarian Garden & Ayurveda Wellness Centre. Open since 2009, this homey garden café serves healthy vegetarian and vegan meals—following a holistic approach—and offers yoga classes, workshops, and Auyrvedic herbal massages. As you progress closer and closer to the Indian temple at the top of the road you’ll come across an array of Indian restaurants with a focus on vegetarian and vegan cuisine. Long-time favourites include Chennai Kitchen, and the hole-in-the wall A-Ma (look for the flags out front). Another newbie to Pan Road is Printa Café, offering all-day breakfasts and Western comfort food—think eggs Benedict, pulled pork sandwiches, fish and chips, and pasta. What’s interesting, however, is that the space also serves as a showroom for Glazziq brand eyeglasses. You can try on some different frames while enjoying a great cup of coffee. At the top of the road (the Silom end) be sure to make a stop at the Kathmandu Photo Gallery. Open since September 2006, this exhibition space and specialty bookshop is located in a lovingly-restored pre-war shophouse. It’s run by famed photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom, whose work is displayed downstairs while different exhibitions—mainly by rising local photographers—are hosted on the first floor. Finally, you’ll arrive at the Sri Maha Mariamman Hindu temple, also known as Wat Khaek (Indian temple). Built in the 1860s, it’s one of the oldest and most important

Le Blanc bakery

Kathmandu Photo Gallery

Hindu temples in Thailand, and boasts a strikingly colourful façade with innumerable carved images of deities. Within the complex the main shrine is dedicated to Sri Maha Mariamman, the goddess of protection and mercy, while others are devoted to Bramha, Ganesha, and Vishnu. One of the major religious ceremonies taking place at the temple is Navratri, a colourful, 10-day festival usually held in October, in which the image of Sri Maha Mariamman is paraded through the streets on the last day of the festival.

Pan Rd

10 11

7 5

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Sathorn Rd

Silom Rd

1. Myanmar Embassy 2. Sri Maha Mariamman temple 3. Launchpad 4. Café Luka & Casa Pagoda 5. Opus 6. Mikys cocktail bar 7. Le Blanc 8. Suanuanda 9. Chennai Kitchen 10. A-Ma 11. Printa Café 12. Kathmandu Photo Gallery DECEM BER 2016 | 21

CITY PULSE | property profile

The Metropole

Colonial-era class with a touch of Art Deco decadence

ituated right at the top end of Thong Lor’s Sukhumvit Soi 55 (at Petchaburi Road), the location alone makes the recently opened 116 room Metropole a perfect city accommodation option. It’s one of four properties bracketed under The Crest Collection label, and the rooms here range in size from the 27 sq.m Studio to the 67 sq.m One-bedroom Premier. All the rooms and suites are outfitted with luxurious amenities, including washing machine and fullyequipped kitchen—great for long stay guests—as well as plush bedding and a range of hi-tech gadgetry, such as touch control lights, free Wi-Fi, toilets with heated seat and bidet functions, and flatscreen TVs. The neutral tone décor, creams and whites offset by dark wood accents, lends the rooms a sophisticated and decidedly masculine feel, while the vintage B&W photos of Bangkok (which decorate the halls and stairways as well) add the all-important Thai touch. The dark wood furnishings and old-world stylings are carried on

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throughout the rest of the hotel, with some lovely Art Deco touches evident in the geometric patterns of the floor tiles and the clean lines of the woodwork. Add to this an elegant colonial-era grandeur, most obvious in the plush leather couches, grand bookshelves, and antique knick-knacks that populate the lobby lounge and adjoining bar area, and the atmosphere conjured up makes one feel like it’s 1910 all over again. Of course, modern amenities are also evident here, including a compact gym and workout room, and a narrow but deep swimming pool—both located at the south end of the hotel. There is also a sauna and cold water onsen bath for guests, but these two luxuries are only found in the gentlemen’s shower and locker room area (sorry ladies!). Fans of Bangkok’s vibrant nightlife scene will appreciate that the hotel is within strolling distance of some of Thong Lor’s most celebrated nightlife enclaves, including 72 Courtyard and The Commons. However, dinner

and drinks can also be had at Chow, the independently run restaurant that occupies a portion of the hotel’s ground floor, and also serves as the hotel breakfast area. The lunch and dinner menus here offer inventive Asian-fusion fare—perhaps best described as ‘Hipster Chinese’—such as pastrami eggrolls, softshell crab fried rice, potstickers (oversized gyozas), and classic Lo Mein noodles. The bar also whips up some creative cocktails, of which the Straight From The Hive—a mix of bourbon, Drambuie, lime juice, passion fruit juice, honey, and cinnamon—is a definite must-try. NOTE: The hotel is also home to Prim Nurture Retreat, an independently run on-site spa, (see our story on pg. 107) by Bruce Scott

The Metropole

2802 New Petchaburi Rd. Tel: 02 314 8555 www.the-ascott.com www.hivesters.com bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | special report

A Year in Fine Dining

It’s been an amazing time in history for gourmand events in Bangkok, thanks to the efforts of the premium water specialists at S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna

oodies in Bangkok have come to expect nothing but the best from each new S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna event that the city plays host to. Back in 2015, S.Pellegrino and Bangkok 101 began a collaboration that launched the Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef series, which featured global super chefs from multiple Michelinstarred restaurants wowing local gourmands with spectacular multi-course dinner creations. In addition, these chef events included interactive components such as masterclasses for industry insiders and media, where demonstrations and hands-on experiences hinted at the delectables to come. The chefs brought to town by the Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef series span the globe— Japanese, Russian,

British, Italian, Aussie, and more. The appearances by these culinary giants, who regularly feature on the coveted World’s 50 Best Restaurants & Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants lists, is just one of the ways that S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna explore the culture of taste and conviviality. The water and wine pairings—with importers and distributors such as Gfour Fine Wines—demonstrated the critical role of not just wine but also premium mineral waters. S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna also played an important role in curating and attracting the global chef talent to the 17th Annual World Gourmet Festival held at the Anantara Siam Bangkok hotel. Here now, we look back on just a few of the highlights from the past.

CHEF: Hideaki Sato DATE: July 8, 2015 VENUE: Ku De Ta (now Ce La Vi) The maestro who helms the kitchen at Hong Kong’s two Michelin-starred TaVie restaurant was the first chef to be part of the Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef series. The man in question, Chef Hideaki Sato, presented an exclusive six-course pop-up dinner, complemented with wine and sake, at Ku De Ta (now Ce La Vi), located on the 39th floor of the Sathorn Square Tower. The chef and sommelier, who started cooking at the age of 19, describes his cuisine as “pure, simple and seasonal”— three words he uses to summarize his style that mixes Japanese and modern European cooking techniques. He racked up plenty of experience working in a number of different restaurants in the Ryugin stable, under the guidance of legendary Chef Seiji Yamamoto.

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special report | CITY PULSE

CHEF: Vladimir Mukhin DATE: November 16-17, 2015 VENUE: The House on Sathorn All the way from the White Rabbit restaurant in Moscow—currently ranked #18 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants—came Chef Vladimir Mukhin. The event, which took place at The House on Sathorn, W Hotel Bangkok, was a collaboration with resident Chef Fatih Tutak (inset). These two young but prominent culinary artists featured Chef Vladimir’s signature 9-course degustation menu. Renowned for his respect to traditions, while at the same time possessing deep interests in new culinary techniques, Chef Vladimir’s approach has made him one of the leaders of Russia’s culinary “new wave”.

CHEF: Shinji Kanesaka DATE: January 15-17, 2016 VENUE: Yamazato, Okura Prestige Bangkok The first Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef series event of 2016 brought Chef Shinji Kanesaka of Tokyo’s two-Michelinstarred Sushi Kanesaka to Bangkok, in what was this true sushi master’s first overseas cameo. Joining him was Chef Toru Osumi from Shinji by Kanesaka, the first extension of the Kanesaka brand at culinary mecca City of Dreams in Macau. The dinners were held at Yamazato, The Okura Prestige Bangkok’s awardwinning restaurant, and were limited to only eight diners each session. The awe-inspiring dishes were paired with a selection of fine Japanese tea and sake.

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DECEM BER 2016 | 25

CITY PULSE | special report

CHEF: Kirk Westaway DATE: May 25-26, 2016 VENUE: Tables Grill, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok Winner of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 Southeast Asia Semifinals, and MLA Rising Chef of the Year 2016, Chef Kirk Westaway—of Singapore’s one-Michelin-starred Jaan restaurant—presented an exclusive 5-course tasting menu together with the team from Tables Grill at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok. Featuring Jaan’s produce-driven cuisine, which makes extensive use of seasonal ingredients, as well as Bellavista sparkling wines from Franciacorta in Italy, it was, indeed, a memorable visit from this culinary rising star.

CHEF: Umberto Bombana DATE: July 13-14, 2016 VENUE: Le Normandie, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok The acclaimed restaurant 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana—for the past five years running the only three Michelin-starred Italian restaurant outside of Italy—gave its star attraction, Chef Umberto Bombana, some time off in order to appear as the guest chef for two exclusive dinners at Le Normandie, at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok. Hailed as the ‘King of White Truffles’, this Northern Italian kitchen virtuoso has made a name for himself in Hong Kong with his eponymous restaurant, a regular on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants (currently listed at #13). His Bangkok appearance coincided with the Mandarin Oriental’s 140th anniversary, and together with Le Normandie’s own Chef de Cuisine, Arnaud Dunand Sauthier, they created a fitting tribute to the hotel’s prestigious past; a specially designed eight course tasting menu paired with premium Italian wines.

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bangkok101.com

special report | CITY PULSE

CHEF: Ryan Clift DATE: November 25-26, 2016 VENUE: Vertigo, Banyan Tree Bangkok Throughout his 20-year career, Chef Ryan Clift has worked with some of the world’s most admired chefs, including Marco-Pierre White, Peter Gordon, Emmanuel Renaut, Shannon Bennett, and Raymond Capaldi. In 2008 he moved to Singapore and launched the Tippling Club, which quickly gained a reputation as one of the city’s premier restaurants. Little wonder then that fervent foodies came out in droves for his special guest appearance in Bangkok at Vertigo, the Banyan Tree’s famed al-fresco roof top restaurant. Chef Ryan presented diners with a 6-course menu created from a selection of his most popular signature dishes, together with wines from Italy, Australia, and France. In addition, some of Tippling Club’s renowned cocktails were also showcased during this creative culinary event.

bangkok101.com

Those initial 2015 events delivered topnotch epicurean experiences to diners in Thailand and set the pace for what turned out to be an amazing continuation of the series on into 2016. It’s been a great line-up, with even more to come in 2017—including the likes of Italy’s Luca Fantin from Il Ristorante Luca Fantin in Tokyo, trailblazing Spanish chef Chele Gonzalez from Gallery Vask in Manila, and chef Ray Adriansyah from Bali’s native produce champion Locavore. As for what else is in store for 2017, at this time we can reveal that in late February the Tourism Authority of Thailand will be bringing back to Bangkok—for the second year in a row—the illustrious, highly anticipated Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna. The Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017 promises to be yet another gathering of the best chefs, and the region’s most dedicated foodies!

Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. www.finedininglovers.com

DECEM BER 2016 | 27

SNAPSHOTS | insight

Artwork by Chris Chun (2014) 28 | DECEM BER 2016

bangkok101.com

insight | SNAPSHOTS

On King Bhumibol

he sight of Thai people en masse in a state of mourning, clad in black and white swarming the area around the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, lining up day and night to pay respect to late King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great (or King Rama IX), may be something astounding to visitors. Renowned as the world’s longest reigning monarch in recent history, the late King Bhumibol is greatly admired by his subjects. Therefore, seeing grown adults sobbing for his passing isn’t something strange among Thais who hold His Majesty dear to our hearts. Monarchy, as one of the three main institutions of the nation, is represented by the royal blue colour in the middle of the Thai flag, gluing the other parts together. Kingship is not taken lightly in Thai and many Asian civilizations. It is not only deemed at the highest reverence, but also the hardest position one can ever imagine. Although lèse-majesté law is often referred to when speaking about Thai royalty, Thai people discreetly talk about them both in public and in private—certainly with warts and all.

Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com

If a king, who is seen as both the “living god” according to the Devaraja doctrine and the “father of the country”, does not behave rightly and perform his royal responsibilities, Thais are also ready to criticise him too. However, King Bhumibol exceeded beyond his call of duty and that’s why Thai people lament the end of his era. When speaking about royalty, a special royal vocabulary is used. However, with HM King Bhumibol’s down-to-earth character, I would like to keep it as simple as possible. We have seen him and other royal family members on the royal news every night on TV conducting all sorts of duties. Most of us have the King’s portraits on the wall, but only a few of us have personally met him. One of his activities is bestowing the diplomas to the university graduates. For only a split second, students come face-toface with His Majesty. It is more than symbolic—it’s a lifelong impression. He wants each and every one of these students to do their best after the graduation, mirroring how hard he worked every day to ensure that his subjects were happy. Born in the US from a father who was a medical doctor and a mother who was a nurse, it’s no wonder that HM was interested in science. After his father died, his mother, Princess Srinagarindra, kept him humble and didn’t spoil him with privileges. Before HM’s passing, a doctor asked him why he always trusted the nurses to take care of him. He said that he was raised by a nurse. When he grew up in Switzerland, he had to mow the lawn to earn some pocket money. As his elder brother, King Ananda Mahidol (or King Rama XIII), returned to Thailand to hold the position, he was called Chao Fah Waen or the “Bespectacled Prince.” But then through unfortunate circumstances, the throne was thrust upon him. He went back to study political science and law to reinvent himself, as he said. Then he came back to reinvent Thailand.

As a king in a constitutional monarchy, King Bhumibol had no direct power in politics so he directed his power into the country—the land to be exact. His name means “the strength of the land”, so he harnessed its energy through his experiments and projects. At the Chitralada Royal Palace, he had several plots of rice fields for experimentations as well as other agricultural projects. Of course, they didn’t work out right away, but through trial and error, and his perseverance, he made many of these projects viable and applicable to farmers and villagers. Ancient civilizations were borne out of controlling the use of water—as seen in Roman aqueducts and Khmer barays—and King Bhumibol achieved similar results in his many irrigational projects. He made artificial “royal rain” from “fluffing” the clouds with chemicals. He “teased” and treated acidic soil to make it more arable. He “captured” the water through “monkey cheek” dykes, built dams, cleaned water with aerators, generated electricity from hydropower, and even diverted floods. Since the happiness of his subjects was his priority, one of his mottos for Thai people says “eat well and live well.” To that end he waged war on poverty, malnutrition, and drugs. He developed royal projects all over the country, mainly in agriculture and small industries for farmers to grow well-yielding rice crops. He trekked the hills of the north to see the hill tribes and asked them to switch from growing opium to high-priced fruits and flowers. He travelled to the borders where the soldiers patrol to boost their morale. After several international tours with Queen Sirikit, he stayed in Thailand to take care of his people, and for 50 years he didn’t go abroad. In his innumerable speeches and New Year cards, he gave inspiring advice and taught Thai people how to behave and live our best lives. His words are always cherished. He will forever remain in our hearts and mind. DECEM BER 2016 | 29

SNAPSHOTS | highlight

On the Night Joey Ramone Died

In this extract from Jim Algie’s new book, a fallen rock star hears about the death of the musical mentor he once corresponded with when he first began playing guitar and singing. By Jim Algie

henever they hired Lek to produce another album for yet another young singer who had started off in modeling, was making a brief stopover in the music business, and would soon be bound for soap operas, game shows and romantic comedies with sappy endings, he felt more like a pornographer than a music producer: the person who airbrushes the blemishes from nude models to make them into the launching pads for fantasies that bear the same relationship to real sex as the songs he produced bore to real love. Except there was no glossing over the fact that this Thai-American pretty boy (“Sweet Pete” his label had dubbed him) possessed the whiny voice of a mosquito buzzing around Lek’s ear at 3am. Or so it seemed after a ten-hour recording session of too many takes and retakes, too many coffees and colas, bowls of instant noodles and cigarettes, during which they had only just started the first chorus of the second song. Since the ‘singer’ could only ‘sing’ two or three

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words at a time that were on-key Lek and the engineer had to construct the lead vocal tracks line by line. During the next take, Pete hit the first note sharp and Lek slammed his fists down on the console, rocked back in his creaking swivel chair and yelled, “Stop!” into the little microphone on the mixing board. He turned off the mic and looked over at the engineer. Grabbing two tufts of his long, dyedblonde hair in his hands, he rocked back and forth moaning, “This kid is so far off-key most of the time he needs to catch a taxi back to the melody.” The engineer laughed, but Lek shook his head, lit another clove cigarette and exhaled through both nostrils. Then he turned the mic back on. “Little brother, let’s take a fifteen-minute break.” Halfway through his cigarette the old phone in the booth rang. The engineer handed Lek the receiver. On the other end was the drummer he’d played with on and off for twenty years. After a bit of chitchat, Ric said, “Afraid I got some sad news for you.” “Is that malicious bitch slandering me in the press again?”

“No, I heard that Joey Ramone just died.” Lek’s deep voice, sandpapered by all the alcohol and cigarettes, went up an octave. “Joey? The king of punk is dead?” He sat up straight and clutched the phone tighter until his arm was trembling from the tension and caffeine jitters. “Don’t keep me in suspense, man. What was it? What happened?” “Some kind of cancer or something.” Lek let out a sigh in one long exhalation. “Not a good sign when your musical heroes start dying of diseases instead of overdoses. He must have been around… what? Not much older than us I guess.” “Right. I think he was almost fifty.” Lek stubbed out his cigarette, watching the glowing embers turn from orange to black as they burned out, until the grey cinders, blown by the cold breath of the air-conditioner, chased each other around the bottom of the ashtray. It was like watching a cremation in miniature. Lek tried to shake off the thought bangkok101.com

highlight | SNAPSHOTS but he was entering into that stage of mental exhaustion when the border between what he felt and what he thought he was seeing had begun to dissolve. “You there?” asked Ric. “Physically, sort of… mentally, not really. Here’s a weird thought, but do you remember when we were teenagers and first started playing in bands and fifty seemed ancient? Now it seems young.” He waited for Ric to say something. After an awkward pause, Ric said, “Right.” Lek couldn’t blame him. Among his male friends, aging was right up there with divorces and erectile dysfunction as a popular topic of conversation. Even bringing up the subject had made him feel older and weaker. The former band-mates promised to meet up again soon, like they always promised but never did, because both of them knew that

Bizarre

Thailand

Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the non-fiction collection, Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic (2010) and On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Twin Tales of Rock ‘n’ Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway (2016). The photo above is from Jim’s last tour of musical duty in Europe with his band the Asexuals, and was used on the 2001 album “Greater Than Later.” Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com

the lingering resentments from spending years on the road together in a perpetual state of intoxication or exhaustion, or some volatile combination of both, were sure to resurface if they actually hung out in person. There was no point talking to the engineer about Joey. He was not yet thirty and mostly listened to jazz fusion and Thai classical music. His favorite rock band was Pink Floyd. Sweet Pete was into K-pop, modern R&B and Broadway musicals. Born into a wealthy family and blessed with good looks, fair skin, and opportunities galore, Pete had never been pestered by an inner voice of discontent screaming to get out and be heard. Punk was too noisy and angry for him. It was for outsiders and misfits not the fortunate sons and daughters of the upper echelons. Head down, eyes on the dirty carpet, Lek trudged down the hallway between the dark and unused recording studios to peer out the window that overlooked Bangkok’s sky-line of office towers silhouetted against the indigo sky of twilight. Most of the windows in the buildings were dark now. Even the few lit up by fluorescent lights shining down from the acoustic ceiling tiles looked empty. Is there anything quite as desolate and inhuman as deserted office towers at night? he asked himself. The offices looked like rows and rows of crypts in a towering mausoleum for white-collar workers. Everywhere he looked he saw desolation and death. Fire that turned into ash. Plumes of smoke that rose and disappeared into thin air. Offices shrouded in shadows.

Deserted buildings that looked like mausoleums. Too tired to stand, he sat down on the floor, using the wall for back support. Other than exhaustion he didn’t feel much of anything. Perhaps he was in shock, or it was middle age creeping up on him again to steal a little more of his enthusiasm for life. The reasons did not matter, because the truth was simple. His favorite living rock singer had just died and here he was producing an awful album for a glorified model. Joey would not have approved and Lek was a sellout and a traitor to the music that he used to love and play. His ex-wife, whose slurs kept repeating on an endless tape loop in his memories, even though they’d been separated for a year and divorced for almost six months, said, “You’re not a punk or a rebel anymore. Why keep pretending? You’re a mainstream rock star who became a pop producer. You’re a businessman in a leather jacket and torn jeans.” When Lek saw the executive producer’s assistant—the guy looked more like a chic marketing manager with hair gel and tortoise shell glasses than a disheveled musician—coming down the hallway, he stood up. Right from the start the two of them had disliked each other in such a deeply ingrained way that it felt more like the instinctual contempt that the Bangkok elite such as him, fair of skin, trendily dressed and convinced of their own sophistication and superiority, had for the dark-skinned and flatnosed people from the northeast like Lek, who were supposed to be uncouth and uneducated. It was time for a showdown.

Jim Algie’s new book, On the Night Joey Ramone Died, combines rock ‘n’ punk history and debauchery, with doses of autobiography from his own musical career, in a pair of interlinked novellas that chart the highs and lows of a Thai rock star’s career as he approaches middle age, faces his own mortality and tries to balance his work and family life. The settings range from recording studios in Bangkok to gigs in New York and drug parties on tour, with scenes that details the difficulties of songwriting, keeping a band together and staying on top in a cutthroat business that causes many stars to come crashing down from the heights of fame to hit rock bottom in the gutters of infamy. The book is now available from www.amazon.com in print or as an e-book.

DECEM BER 2016 | 31

SNAPSHOTS | highlight

Aw Saw Radio

A newly crowned King starts Bangkok’s first live musical radio broadcast, turning the nation on to jazz By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

oon after His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej received the crown in 1950, and had settled into Ambhorn Sathan Villa, a modest residence hall in the Dusit Palace complex, he formed a musical group called Lay Kram consisting of himself on saxophone, clarinet and trumpet, and local Bangkok musicians—sometimes university students—on piano, guitar, doublebass, and brass. Few Thai musicians played jazz in the early 1950s, so the King would introduce them to songs from his record collection and, where necessary, teach visiting players the parts to be played. Some of the musicians in this band, and the later Aw Saw Friday Band, received all of their musical training, from the very beginning, from His Majesty.

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The King soon had the idea to establish a radio station at Ambhorn Sathan so that jazz could be broadcast to the public. As a child in Switzerland, he had absorbed himself in radio technology and built his own ham radio. Bringing that knowledge to bear, and with consultation from radio experts, he submitted a plan to the Cabinet. Under decree by the Cabinet, the Public Relations Department presented the King with a powerful Johnson Viking 100-watt transmitter, and on 15 September 1952 the palace radio station began daily broadcasts of jazz pieces—including musical compositions by His Majesty—from 11am to noon. It was known as Withayu Aw Saw (withayu means ‘radio’, with aw saw being the Thai initials for Ambhorn

Sathan), and programming was decided by the King, who sometimes also acted as announcer and disc jockey. Later, when the station had a regular volunteer DJ and began taking phone requests, sometimes the King himself would answer the phone. The King also utilized the radio station as a platform for raising funds for charitable purposes, such as the Polio Assistance Fund (1952), Cholera Eradication Fund (1958-1959), and relief fund for flood victims in the north (1961) and storm victims in the south (1962). Once the Lay Kram band began playing live Friday performances for the radio station, the name was changed to Wong Aw Saw Wan Suk (Aw Saw Friday Band), which eventually numbered 14 persons. bangkok101.com

highlight | SNAPSHOTS All of the members were volunteers, and included bankers, students, professors, admirals, and even former Prime Minister Seni Pramoj, who played bass and trombone. Sunday evenings the band would meet at the palace and practice for the following Friday’s broadcast performance. Pianist Manrat Srikaranonda, a Chulalongkorn University student whom the King had met while visiting the university, became the King’s chief assistant and remained the band’s secondary leader until His Majesty King Bhumibol’s passing. Professional musicians would occasionally join the group as well. Dr. Pathorn Srikaranonda, Manrat’s son, had the highest musical education of any band member in the group’s history, having earned a bachelor of music in composition from the University of Michigan, followed by a master’s degree in musical composition at Yale University, and a doctorate in musical composition at the University of Edinburgh. The youngest member of the Aw Saw Friday Band, since he joined at age 14, Dr. Pathorn has described the King’s approach as a bandleader: “Everybody leaves their worries at the door before we even start. There is no inferior or superior, whether class or musicianship; music itself is king and nothing else matters. From the first day I joined the band, I realised that

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

His Majesty is a real teacher. He tries to encourage everyone to develop their abilities. He listens to everyone play, and his ear is perfect, getting all the details of each chord and each beat. He will know right away who is making a mistake, and then work with them to get the music on track. He is a very compassionate bandleader.” When the royal family moved to the Chitralada Villa in Dusit Palace in 1966, the radio station was relocated there as well. By this time the King’s duties were so involved that daily broadcasts were reduced to Wednesday afternoons for Western music, Friday evenings for the Aw Saw Band, and Sunday morning and afternoons, when one hour of Thai music was followed by one hour of Western music. At its peak in the 1960s, the Friday broadcasts reached an average 22 million listeners in central Thailand. The Sunday evening rehearsals and Friday evening broadcasts continued without change. According to Manrat, if the King had ceremonial duties outside the palace, he might arrive at a session direct from the occasion, pick up his saxophone, and began playing while still dressed in his royal uniform and regalia. Only urgent

state matters, illness, or travel abroad would interrupt the weekly schedule. Dr. Pathorn was surprised to find out that the King always cleaned and maintained his musical instruments himself. “His Majesty liked to compare the band to society,” he said. “He says everyone in the band has his own duty. The singer is not more important than the bass player or drummer or any player. Everyone is equally important in producing the music. Likewise, this applies to society at large. If everyone in society knows and performs their own duties, society will progress and be peaceful.”

Dr. Pathorn Srikaranonda DECEM BER 2016 | 33

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Royal Portraits

Pictures of kings past and present express the Thai sense of identity

cross the Kingdom, homes, offices, factories, shops and public buildings display at least one royal portrait. Thais have long revered their kings as a devaraja (a semi-divine incarnation of Vishnu), and as a dhammaraja—a righteous Buddhist fount of Goddess. Today the monarchy is one of the three official pillars of Thainess, along with nation and religion, and is identified with good fortune, development and national pride. So royal portraits are objects of deep reverence. As well as photographs, paintings and sculptures, and everyday forms like money and stamps, royal images appear on amulets, billboards, railcards and stickers covering skyscrapers. Portraits of revered King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) retain pride of place as “father” the nation, with Queen Sirikit as the maternal figure. Their birthdays were made Thailand’s Father’s Day and Mother’s Day. Among the royal family, their son, invested as Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn in 1972, tends to be shown in military uniform, while Princess Sirindhorn is shown engaging in good works and cultural endeavours. Many homes also portray Somdej Ya, the Princess Mother who bore Kings Rama VIII and IX. Also prominent are two great former rulers, Rama IV (King Mongkut) and Rama V (King Chulalongkorn), in

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 34 | DECEM BER 2016

tribute for securing Siam’s independence and fostering development. Since the 1980s boom, a cult of Rama V as the pioneer of modern prosperity can be seen in offerings to altars of his pictures, statuettes and amulets, and also to his equestrian statue in Bangkok every Tuesday night, and on his birthday, October 23. Thais feel an intimate relationship to their royal family, and choose portraits that reflect their own interest in activities under royal patronage, as well as royal hobbies, development projects, or rituals. Oft-seen images depict Rama IX sailing, Rama VI acting in plays, and Rama V cooking, or in the rajapataen suit he designed. Queen Sirikit has championed the refined Thai crafts, especially silk, the feature in most images of her. The King’s Birthday on December 5, and the Queen’s Birthday on August 12, see a profusion of royal portraits, usually bearing the phrase ‘Song Phra Charoen’ (‘Long Live the King’) and the entwined initials of royal insignias. These adorn gates, doorways, eaves and purpose-built shrines with an altar for offering or dedication books to sign. Between the Grand Palace, Ratchadamnoen Road is swathed in fairy lights, potted flowers, coloured ribbons, huge picture frames, sculptures of regalia, and arches laden with iconography.

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

SNAPSHOTS | heritage

A last glimpse of this colonial era mansion

Hemingway’s Bangkok For Whom the Bell Tolls By Luc Citrinot

favourite haunt of the city’s expat community, Hemingway’s Bangkok announced in September that it would close its doors once and for all on October 30th, 2016. Although the restaurant is due to come back in a new location during the first quarter of 2017, the 100-year mansion itself is due to disappear forever. When it does, another piece of heritage will vanish from the Sukhumvit Road corridor—like so many other restaurants filled with history that once had a home on this busy thoroughfare. Unfortunately, it seems impossible for property owners to resist the allure of Bangkok’s rising real estate prices and simply run away with whatever profits they can grab.

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For those who never visited Hemingway’s—and now never will—it was the kind of serene, peaceful place that drew a loyal crowd, as it was centrally located (at No.1, Sukhumvit Soi 14) but seemed far away from the hustle and bustle of the manic metropolis. “We were seduced by the location and the house itself,” confesses Damian Mackay, the restaurant’s General Manager. “It’s so rare in Bangkok to have a house surrounded by a terrace and balconies. Not to mention the trees giving the feeling that you’re far, far away from the buzz of Sukhumvit Road.” Hemingway’s management took over the property five years ago and opened the restaurant after extensive

renovations. “The idea was to give the feeling of being in one of Hemingway’s houses in Key West or in Cuba,” explains Mackay. “We took inspiration from the writer’s world and we created entirely the inside decoration. We reproduced paintings from Cuba, and added plants and flowers everywhere to recreate the tropical atmosphere of the Caribbean. We also added fishing gear and pictures linked to Hemingway’s life.” The history of the house itself is just as storied as the life of its namesake writer. It is one of Bangkok’s last remaining buildings from a bygone era when the area was home to plantation owners. Built between 1910 to 1920, using very rare golden teakwood, the house was priced at bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS that time at B200,000—a veritable fortune back then. This would put the value of the home today at around B35 million! The house was originally built for a high ranking personality at the time— General Chao Phraya Pichayenyothin. The military man was named Regent of Siam, from 1934 to 1942, under King Rama VIII. In the 1930s, its house was given to his son who was then Ambassador of Siam in Laos and married to a Laotian member of the royal family, Princess Douangjit. In the 1940s the house then became the residence of ambassadors, including at one point one of the French ambassadors. The intricate woodwork décor makes it a beautiful example of the European-influenced “gingerbread” mansions that were popular at the time. It also boasts large interior spaces, interior columns to support the structure, and huge windows. But above all, the balconies and a large terrace turn this two-storey building into a small slice of paradise. In the 80s the house was an office for a Japanese company, and then served as a restaurant for the past 15

Historic

Bangkok

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

Ornate interior

Nautical motifs

Hemingway’s at night

Outdoor garden

years. “It was first a Thai restaurant, and then it became a Mexican outlet before we took over the property and launched our business in 2012,” Mackay points out. The new incarnation was a success from the start. According to Mackay, thousands of customers were regularly visiting the premises, with 60-70 percent being expats. “We didn’t really advertise. People came due to word-of-mouth. They enjoyed our simple fresh food, our large portions and, above all, the atmosphere and the garden.” However, the bell recently tolled for this grand mansion. “We learned a year and a half ago that the owners wanted to sell the place. They gave us 14 months extra to run the place. But in September we received the injunction to leave the premises as our contract was terminated. It was a sad

moment,” he admits. Adding to the tragedy is the fact that the house is soon to be demolished. “The teakwood has already been put up for sale. We feel sad that local owners always put money over history or heritage. The house stood for a long time with two other similar villas in the street. It was the last trace of the old Sukhumvit,” Mackay says with regret. While the golden teak mansion has been lost to history, Hemingway’s fans will probably not have to wait too long for a new location to be unveiled. “It will again be in a house with a garden,” Mackay hinted. “People can experience the atmosphere of Hemingway’s once more, as we will take all the decorations to the new premises. We expect to be ready to receive customers during the first months of 2017.” DECEM BER 2016 | 37

TRAVEL |

Waterfalls and hiking trails at Doi Inthanon 38 | DECEM BER 2016

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| TRAVEL

ROAM The Royal Projects

His Majesty’s most everlasting legacy

visit to Northern Thailand already assures one of encountering beauty at every turn, however, a trip to any of the ROYAL PROJECT initiative locations reveals something more, and gives tourists a chance to see the fruits of the seeds of self-sufficiency that HIS MAJESTY KING BHUMIBOL ADULYADEJ planted so long ago. At DOI TUNG in the Mae Fah Luang district of Chiang Rai, the main attraction is the Doi Tung Royal Development Project, where guests can roam the botanical gardens, visit the private residence of the Princess Mother, and check out the ceramics and textile factories, as well as the area’s coffee and tea plantations. This area is also home to the Hall of Opium, at the Golden Triangle, and the Mae Fah Luang Art & Cultural Park— the region’s largest collection of Lanna art and cultural artifacts. However, adventure seekers can also enjoy the many hiking, cycling, and river rafting experiences available. By contrast DOI ANG KHANG, which is somewhat equidistant from both Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, offers its own array of attractions to explore. Check out the Royal Angkhang Station Project to learn about the region’s agricultural activities, or take the opportunity to experience the culture of the ethnic minorities, as four different hilltribes are located in this area—Musur, Palong, Thai Yai, and Jean Hor—and all can be visited. There’s also mule riding, trekking, mountain biking, and bird watching on offer. For the true “overview” of the Royal Projects, make the visit to DOI INTHANON—at 2,565 m it’s Thailand’s tallest peak—and if you visit in the winter months you’ll see the blossoming of the Siamese sakura flowers all over the area. Of course any time of year is great for a visit, as you can check out the iconic twin Royal Pagodas of the Royal Project Doi Inthanon, and marvel at the lush fruit and vegetable gardens, as well as the verdant tea and coffee plantations. Afterwards, get up close to nature on one of the many trekking trails that lead past hidden waterfalls and hilltribe villages. Other Royal Projects of note include the Pang Ung Royal Initiative Project in MAE HONG SON, and the Pang Kha Royal Project in PHAYAO.

bangkok101.com

DECEM BER 2016 | 39

TRAVEL | focus on the royal projects

The King of the Mountains

Travel to Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest peak and home to one of Thailand’s most frequented Royal Project sites By James Farrell

few miles before you reach the top of Thailand’s highest mountain, Doi Inthanon, where the temperature suddenly plunges and an alluring mist encroaches on to the winding road, you’ll find an enduring example of the legacy of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej. This is the Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon, the brainchild of the recently deceased monarch. The research station, located in Khun Klang village, is one of four such stations in Thailand. It was part of His Majesty’s vision to promote farming sustainably as well as diminish poverty and deforestation in Thailand by inculcating highlanders with knowledge of farming various crops; sharing the latest innovations and technologies with these farmers, while supporting a good standard of living for all in these remote areas. The station in Doi Inthanon was established in 1979, 10 years after the King had started the Royal Project initiative. Its aim was to solve myriad social, economic and environmental problems all in one. The station now consists of gardens, ponds, nurseries, greenhouses, all of which are places of work as well as a busy tourist attraction. You can actually rent a small bungalow just yards from where—at the time of our visit—the staff (members of local hilltribes) were unloading sacks of fertilizer. Jakapan ‘Tao’ Jantasee, the Project Coordinator at the station, spoke at length about the King’s intention when

opening the research station, as well as its day-to-day functioning. We sat drinking Royal Project coffee on a crisp Saturday morning, taking in the panoramic view of layered hillsides—which, Tao explained, were where roses and chrysanthemums were presently growing. The centre here focuses on growing mainly temperate vegetables, ornamental flowers, and fruits, as well as farming fish. The flowers cultivated could eventually end up decorating grand gardens in Bangkok, while the produce might one day be feeding passengers on Thai Airways flights, or simply lining the shelves of the nation’s supermarkets. For the most part the farmers working at the station are members of hilltribe communities, either of Hmong or White Karen ethnicity. Prior to the introduction of alternative crops, one of the main sources of income for these hilltribe people was the production of opium. For some ethic groups the consumption of opium was also a part of their culture, something the Thai government wanted to change. In 1958 Thailand declared the prohibition of the sale and consumption of opium in the kingdom. But as opium production was a vital source of income to some ethnic minorities—especially those living in the areas in and around Doi Inthanon—Thailand found itself in a position in which it had to sever a means of survival for an already impoverished group of people.

Fresh organic tomatoes

Hilltribe village home, Ang Khang

40 | DECEM BER 2016

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focus on the royal projects | TRAVEL

The twin pagodas at Doi Inthanon

Verdant hillside farmlands bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | focus on the royal projects As the United Nations Office of Drugs and Crime (UNODC) pointed out in a 1963 paper entitled ‘The Hill Tribes of Northern Thailand and the Opium Problem’, which detailed this predicament, hilltribes were quite aware of the negative effects of opium on those who became addicted to the drug. At the same time the demand for opium was constant, and so in spite of the anxiety of being arrested for supplying it, the risks seemed worth it, according to the UNODC paper. Another setback was continual movement due to the degradation of soil were opium grew. The UNODC paper concluded, “If a change is necessary, the tribes would welcome it if it could be convincingly proved to them that it is a change for a better life for all.” It took some years to convince farmers that indeed sustainable, and profitable farming was possible outside of farming opium. Under the advice of the King, who visited the hilltribes all over the north on many occasions, this did eventually change. Opium might still be found being farmed illegally in some parts of Thailand, but for the most part hilltribes now produce other crops, thanks to the King’s work. Hilltribes now practice sustainable methods of farming, as well as learning about post-production issues such as marketing and price fluctuation. Reflecting this change are the workers at the Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon, some of whom look like they are old enough to recall the days when they were first told that they should stop producing opium and move to a different, alien, area of farming. Beside one of the plant nurseries at the project are half a dozen women packing rosemary plants into newspaper cones to be taken to Bangkok. “I’ve been here 30 years,” one woman says, “working and also living at the project.” As Tao and I leave them to their rosemary we hear one of woman proudly say to another that they are going to be in a ‘farang’ newspaper.

Hilltribe handicrafts

WHERE TO STAY Moderately priced bungalows within the national park are available for overnight stays. For more info call 053 286 771-2, or send an email to: royalinthanon@hotmail.com. 42 | DECEM BER 2016

Hall of Inspiration, Mae Fah Luang

SUFFICIENCY ECONOMY There are currently more than 4,100 Royal Project developments in Thailand, a number so large that the Office of the Royal Development Project Board (ORDPB) was created in order to maintain it. This covers not only coffee cultivation, but also research centered around food and water resource management in order to tackle such things as malnutrition and poverty. This is aligned with His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s ‘Sufficiency Economy’ theory, which not only focused on sustainable development but also encapsulated an almost epicurean philosophy which His Majesty hoped would be followed by the people of Thailand. The basis of this was to live within one’s means, and if the country practiced sustainable development then the people of Thailand would always have enough. At the same time the King understood the importance of education and the need to address a lack of it in some of Thailand’s poorer communities. Farmers were introduced to other ways to gain additional income, through the making of handicrafts and furniture, much of which can be seen in markets throughout Thailand, whose customers are often foreign tourists. The Royal Project initiative also included healthcare initiatives and educational initiatives, all aimed at offering a better life for people in remotes rural areas. For this and other work the King was given the United Nations Development Programme’s first Human Development Lifetime Achievement award in 2006 by the United Nations Secretary-General Kofi Annan. But the King’s vision encompassed not only those living in difficult economic circumstances, but all that lived in Thailand and around the world. Sufficiency Economy was to address the problems that arise from over-consumption in a world with finite resources, and the problems this can inflict on the world, such as environmental crisis and over-dependence of consumer products. “Development must burst from within,” the King once said, emphasizing that a better world starts with personal choices.

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focus on the royal projects | TRAVEL

Organic greenhouse vegetables bangkok101.com

DECEM BER 2016 | 43

TRAVEL | focus on the royal projects

Wrapping rosemary

Hilltribe girl with strawberries

Botanical gardens

The stunning vistas of Northern Thailand

“We take care of the local community,” Tao points out, over coffee, explaining that farmers work in one of four sections of the Royal Project devoted to either farming fruit, fish, vegetables, or coffee beans. The project is home to many people whose entire families live here, he added, and in return for work they are paid a wage and are given free accommodation—that includes meals—at the cost of B500 per month. At the moment the project is full, and there is a waiting list to get in, he went on to say. “We offer a school of learning, teaching not only farming but also social values and education about health,” Tao tells me. “Part of the school is dedicated to vocational training where local hilltribes can study English, tourism, and learn how to do restaurant work or become a guide. “Oh, and you can learn how to cut hair,” he added with a smile. On the weekends the camp is visited by around 100 hilltribe children, each learning about farming or one or more of the aforementioned vocational skills. Tourism and work activity at the park are not exclusive—tourists and workers mingle—so it’s a great chance to see agricultural life in action. At 4 4 | DECEM BER 2016

the same time, a stay in the park offers far more than the experience many tourists have, which is often just driving up the hill, taking a selfie at the ‘Thailand’s Highest Mountain’ sign, and driving back down again. In addition to the educational value, the park itself is gloriously eye-catching, decorated by the work itself—hillsides festooned with flowers and ponds home to swans languorously paddling about. There are also a number of nature trails starting from the project, perfect for daytime hikes.

DIRECTIONS Doi Inthanon National Park is 108 km from Chiang Mai, taking route 1009. The journey takes about 2.5 hours. To get to The Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon head up the mountain for 31 km until you see the sign for Khun Klang Village on your right. Take the turning and follow the road up for about five minutes. The project is signposted. For info call 053 286 773, or visit www.royal-inthanon.com (Facebook: The Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon).

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TRAVEL | focus on the royal projects

The Quest for Coffee

Although nowadays Thailand’s Royal Project coffee is much sought after, Prof. Dr. Pongsak Angkasith recalls the difficulties encountered along this road to success By James Farrell

ne of the main focuses of the Royal Project when it was started was the cultivation of the coffee bean, something His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej saw as more than a viable alternative to the opium crop that was originally being farmed in Northern Thailand, especially along the borderlands. Thailand has since become a burgeoning producer of coffee on the global market, presently ranked in third place among Asia’s top coffee producers. Getting this far has been no easy feat, but it was His Majesty’s original ideas and vision that acted as the catalyst for this agricultural turnaround. In Chiang Mai, at the Coffee Research and Development Centre located inside the Chiang Mai 46 | DECEM BER 2016

University campus, Prof. Dr. Pongsak Angkasith, Head of Coffee Research and Development Project for the Royal Project Foundation, spoke about the ascent of Thailand’s coffee production, and with it, Royal Project coffee. On returning from Oklahoma State University in 1978, after studying agriculture, Dr. Pongsak became involved in the research and development of coffee in the highlands. Now, 38 years on, the research still continues, since producing the perfect coffee bean is continually a work in progress. “Research since the beginning of the Royal Project has been focused on crops that can grow in the highlands— creating a cash income for farmers and, in the beginning, to replace opium poppy cultivation,” Dr. Pongsak bangkok101.com

focus on the royal projects | TRAVEL explained, adding that under the King’s advice coffee (Arabica) was promoted for farmers to grow after only one or two years of the Royal Project starting. “His Majesty King Rama IX started the royal project in 1969, focusing on the standard of living of highland communities,” Dr. Pongsak continued. “His Majesty helped the farmers, for their welfare, to create a cash income away from opium, but he also taught them about inappropriate agricultural practices such as ‘shifting cultivation’, destroying natural resources, and the importance of watershed management, as well as helping them to understand soil degradation and the consequences of slash and burn farming.” The farmers, at first, were reluctant, as opium was a crop they knew how to produce. And while it wasn’t the best crop in terms of income, it was an almost guaranteed source of money. “We started replacing opium with fruit farming, such as peaches, but moved on to vegetables and various temperate fruits. Coffee was also one of the promising crops, so we started to grow and promote coffee to farmers. Coffee is a perennial, or what we call a permanent crop,” Dr. Pongsak noted, adding that farmers started to realize they could earn a good living, achieving an even better income than farming the poppy had given them. There were setbacks and continual difficulties, however, and so the King started research centres based on his own findings. These centres were where the King’s ideas were put into action, and from these centres hilltribes would gain their knowledge and take it back to their communities in the hills. It took many years to implement, in spite of growing numbers of farmers starting to see progress, and a greater income. “We had to motivate and inspire them to grow

other cash crops, we also had assist them in terms of technical knowledge, we had to train them, introduce good practice to them, and also teach them about the marketing side,” Dr. Pongsak pointed out. The nexus of this inspiration, he admits, was His Majesty the King. “He showed us the way, the strategy, helped us to work harder to introduce coffee to the highlands.” A DIFFICULT START, AN AMAZING FINISH In 1974 the King set off from Bangkok and covered much of the highlands. “He visited very far, very remote areas, meeting farmers as well as staff and researchers working with the Royal Project,” Dr. Pongsak noted, trips which Thai people and many visitors will be aware of after seeing photographs with the King talking to farmers—farmers who had taken his advice and branched out into other areas of crop cultivation. Research was key, as the cultivation of coffee was often thwarted by setbacks. Dr. Pongsak recalled, “In the beginning there was rust disease, or ‘coffee disease’ as we call it. This destroyed the coffee tree. If we couldn’t find a solution to this, the farmers would have to use more pesticides, and this would result in more costs for the farmers. We had to find a rust resistant crop.” That they did, under the King’s guidelines and research, supported by the Thai government. “We have carried on research until now to get a better quality of coffee and a better standard of production,” the doctor noted proudly, pointing out that coffee production in the north is expanding, now covering Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Nan, and Lampang—highland areas at 800m to 1600m elevation. The Royal Project now has 22 areas that

Coffee cherries

Prof. Dr. Pongsak Angkasith bangkok101.com

Roasting the beans DECEM BER 2016 | 47

TRAVEL | focus on the royal projects produce Royal Project coffee. In all they produce about 500 tons annually. The coffee is bought from the farmers and sold to roasting companies, but the Royal Project also roasts its own coffee—around 50 tons a year. For the most part it’s only available in Thailand— Amazon, Black Canyon, Illy, and Thai Airways are buyers— as there isn’t enough to export. The Royal Project Coffee has however appeared at coffee expos in China and Japan, and some European countries, but the amount is still small in terms of the industrial level. “That’s how we manage to control the quality of coffee,” Dr. Pongsak said. “We are sure Royal Project coffee is one of the best in Thailand in terms of quality.” The doctor went on to remark how the King’s strategy of replacing the opium crop with coffee was admired worldwide. It may have taken more than a decade for it to happen but he says the end result was perfect: sustainable farming, a rise in living standards for farmers, and of course excellent produce. HIS MAJESTY’S FOOTSTEPS “Every year, since the start of the Royal Project, His Majesty the King went to those hilltribes—walking, climbing up mountains, visiting the research stations, giving motivation and knowledge to his subjects,” Dr. Pongsak said, admiringly. “He visited one village, telling the locals that coffee was the future, better for your income and better for natural conservation. He watched how progress was made it made him feel extremely proud

of the work that was being done, work based on his own observations. This became a lesson learned for many countries, and we are still working on it now.” There are 80 teaching staff and almost 2,000 students in Chiang Mai University’s (CMU) Faculty of Agriculture. 30 of the staff have volunteered in the Royal Project initiative since the start of the project in 1969, not only from CMU but other nearby universities. “Generation to generation. Working on a voluntary basis, training and developing,” remarked the doctor who is already retired, but still volunteers as the head of coffee research. New highland development areas of the Royal Project system are being found, and one of the latest is Mae Salong, traditionally known for its tea cultivation. “Last year we got more than 20 tons of coffee from Mae Salong,” Dr. Pongsak noted. The target now, he says, is to produce a Royal Project specialty coffee, a unique variety of coffee, cultivation and farm management, that follows the King’s guidelines. There are limitations, he added, such as the areas in which coffee can be grown. Preservation of forestry areas and protecting natural resources is always the utmost concern. But one day he believes that Thai Royal Project coffee will be known as one the quintessential specialty coffees around the world. “We put our efforts into the future, with a view to His Majesty’s policies and strategies, and we followed his teaching, guidelines—in our heads and in our hearts—all the time. We will do this into the future, following in his footsteps.”

Coffee plantation

Weighing the green coffee beans 48 | DECEM BER 2016

Hilltribe villagers bangkok101.com

TRAVEL | out & about

Northern Exposure

Daniel Fraser, of Smiling Albino, takes visitors on exciting and enlightening tours of the Royal Projects By Bruce Scott

anadian-born Daniel Fraser, the co-founder and current Managing Director of Smiling Albino—a Bangkok-based travel company specializing in creative adventure experiences in Thailand— has put together customized journeys for a slew of A-list celebs and rockstars, as well as wholesome families and adventurous travellers looking for something decidedly different. His tours often involve visits to the various Royal Projects, and his affection and admiration for these regions invariably rubs off on the visitors he brings there. Interestingly, Daniel’s own association with the Royal Projects dates back to his very first trip to Thailand, long before Smiling Albino was even conceived. You first came to Thailand at the age of 21. What brought you here? I was in university in the US back in 1995 and I had this incredible opportunity to come to work for the royal family of Thailand. The philanthropic wing of the university had a 30-40 year relationship with the King and Queen of Thailand, helping in the Royal Projects since Day 1. But the funding for this foundation at the uni fell apart, and that’s when H.R.H. Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn stepped forward and basically said, “Look, this uni has been sending people for so long to help work with our projects, send a couple of people to work directly under my auspices and I will pay the bill”. So, lo and behold, with a couple of weeks planning I arrive in Bangkok with one other guy, working at the Chitlanda Palace. I was there for a year and my main job was high school English teacher in the King’s private school. I also worked at the Chaipattana Foundation, which is a Royal Project for the development of agricultural

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the US, returned to Canada, went into advertising, and finally came back in 2000 with a friend of mine to start the travel agency Smiling Albino, which is what I do now.

Daniel Fraser

sustainability projects all over Thailand, mostly for hilltribe people and the rural poor who generally lack water resources. So when you arrived in the 90s, the Royal Projects were already a firmly entrenched entity? Absolutely! And my role in this thing... I was a glorified English tutor to some of the staff. But it was fantastic. I was spending time with farmers, machinists, and engineers, helping them perfect their English. And in so doing I learned about what they were doing, which was fascinating. It was creating a sustainable backbone for this country, outside of government and NGOs. I was hooked. I thought, this is the ultimate benevolent monarch. But you eventually went back to North America, correct? Yes. I was here for one year teaching, and I fell in love with Thailand and vowed to return. I felt I had spent a year here quite unlike anyone else—I wasn’t a tourist or an expat. I was in this epicenter of amazing culture and people. So I went back to school in

I know I’m not the first person to ask but, where did that name come from? The sacred royal Thai elephant—the white elephant—is an incredible animal that I was fortunate enough to feed many times when I was in the palace. I wanted a name that was synonymous with what’s unique about Thailand—the albino elephant—and “smiling” because it’s the “land of smiles”. So the idea being that we wanted to expose Western travellers to the real Thailand. Which Royal Projects are best suited for visitors? The most obvious one, that really is an ideal place for tourism—because it’s an education centre and it has handson activities—is called Doi Tung. You can visit rehabilitation training centers, vegetable farming centers, and textile and bead centers. There’s also a world class ceramics center, as well as the King’s Mother’s home and garden. In addition to all that there’s the Hall of Opium, which if you’ve never been to, is a must! It’s a very well done, pretty honest, 5,000 year chronology of the opium trade. How do the projects fit into the Smiling Albino tour itineraries? We don’t take people to the Royal Projects as a destination. They are their stops along the way, on a journey learning about Northern Thailand. Education is an integral part of our trips, and our clients are genuinely interested in how Northern Thailand has developed and how the Royal Family has managed to buffer bangkok101.com

TRAVEL | out & about the opium trade, and communism, and many other things, to create sustainable livelihoods. But when these tourists are in Northern Thailand they also want to know “who are these ethnic groups?”, and the best way to learn about them is at some of these Royal Projects, because they tend to be populated largely by ethnic groups. It becomes a self-feeding enterprise. People are interested enough at the beginning to hear about it, then once they’re there they want to learn more. But it really takes a great guide to bring it to life. Is it easy for people to join in on some of your tours? I’d say virtually all of our trips are customized—95% of our clients come directly from overseas—but it’s possible to join a trip of ours as long as it hasn’t been sold as a private trip. Some clients are fine to have joiners. And next year we have a plan to create a few “weekend getaways” that are a little more in line with visiting traditional Thai areas. Are the Royal Projects easy for the average visitor to find? Doi Inthanon is obvious, because it’s the highest mountain in Thailand, and Doi Ang Khang, a highland forestry station, is one of the original projects dating back 30 some odd years, with this incredible vista overlooking the Chiang Mai/Chiang Rai frontier. Most people know those places are there, but most people don’t know there’s a lot more to see and do once you’re there. It’s an onion, you peel back a layer and you find something else. In the early days of Smiling Albino we used to take people on motor scooters up to Doi Tung and we’d stop at the Royal Gardens, and visit the house. We’d have a great lunch—the food is fabulous, it’s from the organic farms— and then we’d drive out and it’d be an hour long in-and-out experience. But then some clients expressed interest in really digging deeper and learning about the handicrafts, and visiting the textile factories. They’d say, “I’d like to see how they make coffee”, or “I’d like to see how they make these bowls and ceramic pots and things”, so then it got a little more in-depth, which is why from time to time we go behind the curtain and into the factories. 52 | DECEM BER 2016

Northern Thailand’s spectacular hiking trails

Mountain biking with a twist

Do you personally have any favourite Royal Project areas? Kung Krabaen Bay in Chanthaburi province! They do a lot of projects there that are great, and also great for hands-on learning and experience by visitors. It’s largely about developing sustainable marine life—oysters, squids, crabs—but includes everything from planting seed grass, to fortifying the sandbanks with mangrove forests. And, of course, I love Doi Tung. There’s so much to it. In addition to fabulous mountain biking and hiking, they also make the best brownies in Thailand up there. Do you think the projects will change now that The King has passed away? I think had the King passed away in the mid 70s or 80s, when a lot of these projects were still finding their own direction, a lot would have changed. It would have left a lot of people

helpless. But the King has left behind great structure, great incentive, and great motivation. I think most of these projects will continue. The country has so much to gain from them. Enough people are living better lives to know that now would not be the time to shift course. Did you ever meet His Majesty? I was “presented” to him once, at an event in the palace, but it wasn’t like a conversation (laughs). I was presented, I bowed, someone introduced who I was, he nodded, and that was it. But it was a real honour. He had a presence like no other person on the planet— gracious, respectable, dignified, and curious. Find out more about Daniel and his team of skilled travel specialists at: www.smilingalbino.com. bangkok101.com

TRAVEL | island getaway

Daytrip to Paradise Discover the hidden island gem known as Koh Kham By Julia Offenberger

ne of the most frequently asked questions in Bangkok is “where’s the nearest beach?” And while there are a couple of destinations in the nearby vicinity, many of these popular getaways—such as Koh Larn near Pattaya—suffer from being overcrowded or not properly looked after. However, there’s a shining beacon of hope for daytrippers, and it goes by the name of Koh Kham. Located just a 2.5 hour drive from Bangkok (50 km south of Pattaya), this small island is located about 9 km off the coast from the Sattahip Naval Base, in Chonburi province (just to the west of its larger island neighbour, Koh Samae San). It is under the control of the Royal Thai Navy and, due to its delicate ecosystem, was declared a Marine National Park in 1993 (as part of a marine park project based in Sattahip). According to the Royal Thai Navy, Koh Kham is one of three islands that are under the pilot project, a campaign that aims to preserve and rehabilitate coral reefs in Thailand. Only 61 rai in size, this H-shaped island is comprised of twin mountains linked together by a thin stretch of land. It boasts beautiful white beaches, clear waters, and an abundance of colourful coral reefs that are home to many underwater animals. Compared to more popular islands nearby, Koh Kham is a unique and authentic alternative— far from the maddening crowds—where you can relax, swim, snorkel, and explore the delicate underwater world. Likewise, you can discover the island’s lush interior by

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taking a light, 30-minute hike up to the island viewpoint, which offers stunning vistas overlooking the neighbouring islands as well as the broad expanse of the Gulf of Thailand. The island is open to visitors only on weekends, with Navy boats leaving from Kao Ma Jor Pier, close to the Thai Island & Sea Natural History Museum in Sattahip. The ride takes only 20 minutes, but the number of daily visitors is restricted to 300 people, and as there’s no accommodation available, tourists cannot stay overnight. Except for toilets and one little “shop” selling refreshments, there are no other buildings or construction. Strict rules apply on the island, including the prohibition of shower products, cooking, or fishing. However, the travel agency The Asia has just recently begun offering exclusive all-inclusive daytrips from Bangkok during the week (except public holidays). For just B1,900 (lunch included), you’ll get picked up at one of two convenient Bangkok locations, taken on a worry-free daytrip to this serene island paradise, and returned to Bangkok rested and refreshed. Both snorkelling gear and kayaks are included, as are deckchairs and beach mats. With exclusive access to the island from Monday to Friday, The Asia offers beach seekers the authentic tropical island getaway they’ve been looking for. To find out more, or to book your trip, visit: www.theasia.com bangkok101.com

TRAVEL | upcountry now

PHUKET KING’S CUP REGATTA 2016 December 3-10

Established in 1987, and today considered by many to be Asia’s biggest and most popular sailboat competition, the annual King’s Cup Regatta in Phuket attracts international yachtsmen who come to challenge, celebrate, and socialise with other sailing enthusiasts. In the water off Kata Beach, competitive sailors from all over the globe will race in dinghies, keelboats, and multihull vessels. This year marks the 30th anniversary of this acclaimed sporting event, and those making the trip will see world-class race teams competing and then celebrating in style at various parties around the island. www.kingscup.com

SUPERYACHT RENDEZVOUS December 10-12

The inaugural Kata Rocks Superyacht Rendezvous 2016 promises to be a fun event, designed with luxury lifestyles in mind. It’s a fantastic opportunity for yacht owners to meet, and for yachts wishing to charter to receive excellent media coverage. The event takes place immediately following the King’s Cup Regatta, and is open to both sailing and motor yachts measuring over 24 meters in length, visiting or based in Phuket—Southeast Asia’s leading superyacht hot spot. The invitation-only guest list includes Kata Rocks villa owners, superyacht owners, and industry professionals. www.katarockssuperyachtrendezvous.com

AYUTTHAYA MARATHON 2016 December 11

Sporty types are encouraged to join in on the Ayutthaya Marathon 2016, taking place at the Ayutthaya Historical Park, one of the Kingdom’s most celebrated heritage sites. Runners will enjoy the experience of hoofing it through the ancient capital of Siam—along the cultural trail with its beautiful historical sites and ancient ruins. The race is split into four categories, including a marathon (42k), halfmarathon (21k), mini marathon (10k), and fun run (4.2k). The event gets underway early (at 4am), and prizes include the King’s Cup, as well as trophies and medals. For more info visit: uniquerunning.goodsportsthailand.com

BURIRAM KITE FESTIVAL December 19-20

During the harvest season, when the cold Northeastern winds blows over Huai Rat, the annual Buriram Kite Festival takes place, promoting and preserving time-honoured Isaan traditions. The competition, which takes over the local sports stadium, gathers kite-flyers and enthusiasts from surrounding villages, where they show off their piloting skills and techniques. Locals will display traditional aek kites, which are judged for their beauty and flyabilty. And, this being Isaan, there will also be parades, music, a beauty contest, and lots of food and souvenirs for sale. 56 | DECEM BER 2016

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ART

| ART & CULTURE

The Play

Space Drawing by Paramodel

n display until Christmas, the exhibition entitled THE PLAY, by Japanese multi-platform artists PARAMODEL (Yoshihiko Hayashi/ Yusuke Nakano), is a monumental site specific installation. By transforming the first floor of the black box theatre into a gallery, and taking up the entire space with a gigantic array of ready-made industrial pipes and blue plastic rails, this installation piece confronts viewers with an electrifying visual impact. While the exhibit somewhat resembles a construction-site, it paradoxically offers an exotic version of a paradise—a kind of multi-layered, decorated network society—just in time for the Christmas holidays. Paramodel is an “art unit” formed in 2001 by YASUHIKO HAYASHI and YUSUKE NAKANO (both graduates of the Kyoto City University of Arts). Their moniker comes from the combination of the words “paradise” and “model”, and the fusion of these two concepts is essentially the launching point of their creations. Although the unique talents and interests of these two individuals hardly ever intersect, they manage to work in parallel towards the same vision of constructing intricate models of paradise using toy parts, such as plastic train tracks and mini-cars. Engaging in this poetic, yet paradoxical practice of remodeling paradise, this art unit presents their visions in a variety of media, including installation, objects, animations, painting, sculpture, and photography. THE PLAY runs until DECEMBER 25 at the THONGLOR ART SPACE (58/14-15, Sukhumvit Soi 55). Viewing hours are daily (except Wednesdays) from 2pm to 10pm. For more information, call 095 924 455. www.facebook.com/thonglorartspace

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DECEM BER 2016 | 59

ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

DECEMBER 1-31 Gilded Blue & Silver Fermentation Neilson Hays Library

195 Surawong Rd. Viewing hours: Daily 9:30am-5pm Tel: 02 233 1731 | www.bangkokphotoschool.com

This month, Bangkok-based French artist Landry Dunand presents two different collections of his photography and mixed media art—Gilded Blue in the garden gallery café and Silver Fermentation in the rotunda gallery. The first is a collection of cyanotypes, made using a mid-18th century photographic printing process that produces a cyan-blue print. The second is a series of silver gelatin prints, created and developed in Landry’s home darkroom. Landry shoots in both film and digital, and has lately turned to light sensitive cyanotypes, or photographic blueprints, and experiments in other hands-on techniques in his jungle darkroom.

DECEMBER 8-JANUARY 14 Once Upon a Time

Ardel’s Third Place Gallery The Third Place, Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Viewing hours: Mon–Sat, 10am-6pm Tel: 02 714 7929 | www.thirdplacebangkok.com/gallery

This exhibition presents paintings and prints from artist Chutchawan Wannapo, created as a remembrance of all the memories and impressions the artist has with respect to the natural environment and the overall idea of impermanence. The artworks display light, shadow, and forms that are affected by the passing of time. The shadow among trees, flowers, duckweeds, water, sky, and rocks all reflect the overlapping of time in a specific place in the artist’s memory and represent his feelings while he was recalling the existence of himself within these specific places and/or times.

DECEMBER 22-JANUARY 22 Variety of Woodcut

Ardel Gallery of Modern Art 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd. Viewing hours: Tue–Sun, 10:30am–5:30pm Tel: 02 422 2092 | www.ardelgallery.com

This exhibition features the work of five young printmakers, namely Yutt Puektasajatum, Jakkee Kongkaew, Surasak Sornsena, Kattliya Phantodee, and Teppong Hongsrimuang. The works of this artistic quintet is inspired by the beauty of nature and animals, as well as time and the relationship between themselves and the surroundings. These artists have created beautiful and simple prints, yet they are at the same time very valuable in terms of idea and skill. They have crafted the works utilizing woodcut techniques which have continued down through successive generations—from long in the past, up until now. 60 | DECEM BER 2016

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

NOVEMBER 26-JANUARY 8 Believe in Chaiyot Jindagun Subhashok the Arts Centre

160/3, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Viewing hours: Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun, 11am-6:30pm Tel: 02 258 5580 | www.facebook.com/sacbangkok

This evocative solo exhibition by Chaiyot Jindagun is all about realizing one’s value and the important potential of ourselves as humans. In this show the artist still reflects the beauty of Thailand’s vintage puppets, having devoted himself laboriously to the task of researching these folkloric items and presenting them afresh. Using watercolour, pastel, oils, and even sketches, as well as creating teak frames for the paintings, the artist creates an uncompromising final creation—authentic in every detail, including his use of the linen cloth and the old-fashioned method of striking pegs.

UNTIL FEBRUARY 19 The Game | Viet Nam by LE Brothers The Jim Thompson Art Center

6, Kaaemsan Soi 2, Rama I Rd. Viewing hours: Daily, 9am-8pm Tel: 02 216 7368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com

This exhibition features the work of Le Ngoc Thanh and Le Duc Hai, identical twin brothers who make their art as the LE Brothers. The twins examine Vietnam today, four decades after the reunification, by recalling their childhood and past memories, growing up in a country scarred by war and divided ideologically in the North and South. The show is comprised of a number of mixed-media works, including a 24-channel video installation (itself titled The Game), an extensive photo installation, and two larger-than-life rifles— the iconic AR-15 (USA) and AK-47 (USSR)—constructed of exquisite lacquer work.

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DECEM BER 2016 | 61

ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

Historic swords

Statue of Rama V with his son

Bangkok Noi diorama

Making Medical History The Siriraj Bimuksthan Museum brings to life the history of medical innovation in Thailand By Bruce Scott

t the south end of the Bangkok Noi estuary, on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, is where you’ll find the Siriraj Bimuksthan Museum. It’s located right next door to Siriraj Hospital, which has its own unique medical museum (sometimes referred to as the ‘Museum of Death’), but the Siriraj Bimuksthan Museum is quite different from its more macabre neighbour. The museum’s main, L-shaped building preserves the heritage of its former tenant—the Bangkok Noi Railway station, which ceased operation in 2003—especially in the entry area and at the ticketing booths, where the look of the old-style train station is most evident. There’s also an authentic Mikado steam locomotive on the grounds outside to remind visitors of the property’s former incarnation. However, the storied history of this plot of land goes back even further, dating back to the late 1700s, when it was a fortress during the time of Taksin the Great, King 62 | DECEM BER 2016

of Thonburi (portions of the old fortress walls have been unearthed and are on display at the museum). Several decades later, in 1782, King Rama I granted the land to Prince Wang Lang, and several of the displays on the ground floor are dedicated to this period, including the Boranraja Sastra room which exhibits antique swords and other weapons, and the Sthanbimuk Mongkolkhet room, which has an enormous, intricately illustrated mural depicting the life of Prince Wang Lang. But even before entering these rooms, visitors watch a short video presentation (in Thai with English subtitles) on the history of the railway station and the surrounding area. It’s just one of the many hi-tech visual displays that enhance the overall experience. Up on the second level the history of modern medicine in Thailand begins to emerge. In 1888 King Rama V was instrumental in establishing Siriraj Hospital—the first public hospital in Thailand—named after his infant son Siriraj who had succumbed to dysentery one year bangkok101.com

earlier. Then, in 1990, the King granted permission for The Royal Medical College to be established, in order to train the staff who would work at the hospital. Of course, it was no easy task convincing Thai people of that era that modern medicine was superior to their time-honoured folk traditions, so for many years the hospitals administered both kinds of medicine—ancient and modern alike. The second storey rooms are a mix of hi-tech displays, vintage photos, and reconstructions of old-fashioned laboratories and operating theatres. There’s even a plasticized corpse visitors can touch. As visitors weave their way through the various displays they will also see life-size dioramas depicting traditional pharmacies and other folklore medical traditions, as well as some interactive electronic displays that tell about the mysteries of the human body. The last section—Building 3 on the museum map—is home to an enormous, 25 meter long, ancient wooden river barge which was unearthed during the construction of the museum. Finally, in an adjacent display hall there is a life-size, walkthrough, diorama display depicting the marketplace life in Bangkok Noi as it would have been lived in times gone by. NOTE: The Siriraj Bimuksthan Museum is wheelchair accessible, and also includes special features for hearing and visually impaired persons.

Pharmacist diorama

Siriraj Bimuksthan Museum 2 Wanglang Rd. (Thonburi Railway Pier) Open: Wed-Mon, 10am-5pm (closed on official holidays) Price: B300; B50 (under 18) www.sirirajmuseum.com bangkok101.com

Royal Project photos by Napan Sevikul

museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

A PHOTOGRAPHER’S JOURNEY The man who has been fulfilling the role of chief consultant at the Siriraj Bimuksthan Museum since it opened is Napan Sevikul, although this marks his final year with the institution, as he will be retiring soon. “I am almost 70, let me have some rest,” he says, with a jolly laugh. But retirement doesn’t mean this dedicated historian, archivist, and photographer will be slowing down entirely. In fact, he still has quite a task before him in setting up a searchable, electronic photo library at the museum—designed primarily for students doing research work. The bulk Before and after of his contribution to this photo archive will be his collection of photographs, documents, and written accounts detailing his time spent at the Royal Projects as part of the group that accompanied His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej on his treks through the countryside of Northern Thailand. “I have over 1,000 photos, and lots and lots of documents,” Napan explains as he brings up a series of images on his laptop. “But I was not official photographer of the King. I never worked with him. I had my own company—Bell Co. Ltd.—and that company worked with the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) for over 30 years.” It was through that connection with the TAT that Napan was allowed the opportunity to work as part of a special committee, set by the then Prime Minister. “I had a chance to follow the King for 7 years—from 1978 to 1985—while he was going out and working up country.” During this time Napan documented much of what was going on at the Royal Projects, and although he never took that many photos of the King himself—“When he was working I did not want to interrupt his work, so we stayed a bit far from him,” he explains—a few of his royal portraits have become almost iconic, including the photo that graced the cover of our Bangkok 101 November memorial issue. In recent years Napan has revisied the places he photographed almost three decades ago in order to compare the images. Carrying his old photos and mapping documents, he was able to locate many of the original sites and re-photograph the exact spots as they are today. His amazing beforeand-after documentation shows clearly how substantial a difference the King’s work has made to these once agriculturally depleted areas. DECEM BER 2016 | 63

ART & CULTURE | special arts feature

The Jazz King

From Bangkok to Broadway, King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s musical output earned international recognition and left a lasting legacy By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

n 2011, after I was asked to contribute a chapter on His Majesty King Bhumibol’s musical pursuits for the biography King Bhumibol Adulyadej: A Life’s Work (2012), I took six months to research the topic. Digging into magazine and newspaper archives, interviewing musicians who had participated in recording and performing sessions with the King, and analyzing each of the King’s 48 original jazz works. I knew that the King had been keen on jazz from quite a young age, and that he was a player and composer of some skill. But the full depth and breadth of his passion for music only came through to me as I sifted through his history and accomplishments in detail. Many people are aware of His Majesty as a jazz performer from seeing well-known black and white photos of the King playing with legendary American jazz clarinetist Benny Goodman. In fact, many renowned international guest musicians visited the palace to play with the King between the 1950s and early 1970s, including Lionel Hampton, Jack Teagarden, James Moody, Benny Carter, Les Brown, Maynard Ferguson and The Preservative Hall Jazz Band. Les Brown recorded several of the King’s compositions in 1996, and described Bhumibol as “a superior musician”. 64 | DECEM BER 2016

King Bhumibol’s earliest reported musical memories come from 78rpm vinyl records played on the family’s wind-up Victrola gramophone in Bangkok. Although his parents preferred Western classical fare, the King told Simon Wallace of the Melbourne Jazz Ensemble that the first song he can remember enjoying was a 1928 jazz version of “Old Man River”. He might never have picked up a saxophone had it not been for the 1932 revolution. Amid the ensuing political instability, Queen Sawang suggested that Bhumibol’s mother, Princess Srinagarindra, take her family to Switzerland. When the family settled in Lausanne in 1933, Prince Bhumibol was six years old. Even as his brother Ananda was named successor to the Siamese throne two years later, the family remained in Switzerland, where an exposure to music developed in a different way from how it might have back in Siam. In 1942, Prince Bhumibol acquired his first instrument, a second-hand Strasser Marigaux & Lemaire alto sax, for 300 Swiss francs, half paid out of his allowance and half contributed by his mother. The Prince began private lessons with an Alsatian sax instructor in Lausanne, and by the end of 1943 his playing was promising enough that he was invited to join a classical ensemble whose other bangkok101.com

special arts feature | ART & CULTURE

“IF THE KING LOVES MUSIC, THERE IS LITTLE WRONG IN THE LAND.” — Mencius (372-289 BC)

members consisted of a violinist, a cellist, and a pianist, to play concerts throughout 1943. As the Prince’s keen interest in jazz intensified, he purchased, in early 1944, a second-hand Le Blanc clarinet, an instrument he maintained throughout his career. Between the ages of 16 and 17, he added guitar and flute to the expanding list of instruments he learned to play. He spent hours practicing alone, playing alto sax along with records by well-known jazz musicians, copying their solo lines and analysing their individual styles. To play at Lausanne dinner parties held at the family home, the Prince formed a loose-knit amateur band called Wong Krapong (Tin Can Band) with an openstage policy; anyone who could play an instrument was welcome to join in. The family’s return to Thailand in 1946 provided a catalyst for Bhumibol’s initial forays into the world of jazz composition, encouraged by his cousin Prince Chakrabandhu Pensiri Chakrabandh, an amateur composer and poet himself who would later serve as a government minister. The King finished his first piece, “Saeng Tien (Candlelight)”—a complex blues arrangement with a rich, New Orleans-style melody—in April 1946, with Prince Chakrabandhu contributing the Thai lyrics. Internationally, it was to become the King’s most well-known work, covered by dozens of musicians and bands around the world. His musical output might have intensified at this point if it hadn’t been for the death of King Ananda on the 9th of June, 1946. Dealing with the family tragedy, and taking on the royal crown from 1950 forwards, irrevocably bangkok101.com

changed his life’s course. Still, even with the heavy demands placed on him by kingship, the new monarch managed to average two new songs per year for the next 20 years. In May 1949, at the age of 21, the King travelled to Paris to attend the Paris International Jazz Festival. It was in Paris that same year that he became enamoured with Sirikit Kitiyakara, daughter of the Thai ambassador to France. Later that year they got engaged in Lausanne, and the couple were married in 1950, just a week before his official coronation ceremony. Shortly thereafter, the new King accepted an invitation from American theatre and film producer Michael Todd to contribute music to a Broadway stage musical. He offered two songs: “Falling Rain” and “Athit Ap Saeng”. The latter composition, a minor-key jazz ballad firmly based on a beguine or slow rumba, suggests the hand of a composer who is firmly grounded in music theory and capable of expressing deep emotions. Michael Todd’s Peep Show opened to a packed house on 5 June 1950 at the Forrest Theatre in Philadelphia, and was controversial for its use of female nudity. The King’s composition, which appeared during the first act finale, was listed in the programme as “Blue Night”, and was described by one American reviewer as “a haunting beguine”. After its Philadelphia residence, the show moved to Winter Garden Theatre at Broadway and 50th in New York on 28 June and ran until 24 February 1951, racking up 278 performances in eight months. On the heels of its mild Broadway hit status, “Blue Day” became one of the more recorded royal compositions outside of Thailand, including versions recorded by the Count Basie Orchestra, the Diane Schuur Trio, and Larry Carlton, who placed the song as the opening track on his album The Jazz King. Throughout the 60s Bhumibol continued to compose, releasing 17 songs before the end of the decade. The most ambitious work of that time—and, arguably, his entire musical career—was the acclaimed Kinareee Suite. Written in four movements for a ballet interpretation of Manohra, a traditional dance-drama story from southern Thailand, the suite fuses traditional Thai music and dance with Stravinsky-like impressionism, blues, ballet, and modern dance. In 1964, while the King and Queen were visiting Austria, Vienna’s Niederösterreich Tonkünstler Orchestra performed a concert of the Kinaree Suite at the Vienna Concert Hall. Spirited applause spontaneously erupted from the audience in the middle of the suite, and continued until His Majesty stood up to acknowledge the applause. Afterwards, huge crowds waited outside for a glimpse of the royal couple, shouting ausgezeichnel, (superb), and wunderbar (wonderful) as they left the hall. As the King aged, palace jam sessions became less frequent, and by the time I was writing my music chapter for the biography, only pianist Manrat Srikaranonda continued to play with the King now and then. When I asked Manrat whether the King ever grew tired of playing the saxophone all night, Manrat answered, “He never gets tired of playing. When you’ve been playing music your entire life, as he has, it’s in your blood.” DECEM BER 2016 | 65

ART & CULTURE | cinema scope

Northern Lights

UNESCO World Heritage Site hosts Southeast Asia’s premiere film festival By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

Khun Pan

n the remarkably well-preserved city of Luang Prabang, the northern capital of Laos, there isn’t a single working cinema (in fact, there’s only one in the entire country). But during the first week of December, the streets of the city’s UNESCO-sanctioned historic district are filled with cinephiles hailing from all over the region and beyond. A total of 32 feature films will be screened at the 7th annual Luang Prabang Film Festival, which runs from December 2-7, all of them from Southeast Asia (Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam). This non-profit festival aims to boost regional awareness of independent film. “Without exposure to films like these, moviegoers and budding filmmakers are confined to the Hollywood model for the most part,” says festival director Gabriel Kuperman, a graduate of New York’s New College in media studies who now works full-time for the Lao government’s Department of Cinema. “We want to see more inspiration for young filmmakers as well as a more cohesive Southeast Asian film culture.” Film experts from each of the ASEAN nations act as Motion Picture Ambassadors for the festival, recommending up to 10 feature films each. Kong Rithdee, film critic for the Bangkok Post and a filmmaker in his own right, represents Thailand, for example. Each film is screened with its original native-language soundtrack, with English sub-titles added. A program of short films also appears on this year’s schedule, as well as discussions and workshops. 66 | DECEM BER 2016

Y/our Music The only prize given to filmmakers at the festival is one audience award. “We operate the festival as a celebration of film, rather than a competition,” avows Kuperman. Among the films representing Thailand this year is Khun Pan, a Kongkiat Komesiri-directed dramatic feature about a legendary Thai policeman who defeats and captures dozens of powerful bandit lords throughout Thailand using his skills in muay thai and Thai magic. The hit monk-themed comedy Joking Jazz 4G will also be at the festival, along with Y/our Music, an acclaimed documentary on Thai music directed by Waraluck Hiransrettawat Every and David Reeve. From Cambodia, we’ll see Diamond Island, a drama directed by Davy Chou that follows a villager’s life as a migrant worker in the capital, as well as Ian Whitedirected Before the Fall, in which three characters clash while plotting their escape during the 1975 Khmer Rouge takeover of Phnom Penh. A Yellow Bird, a Singaporean feature directed by K. Rajagopal, is a downbeat narrative with deliberately abrasive characters and an uncommercial authenticity, according to a Variety review. Meanwhile, Indonesia’s principal contribution to the festival, Question of Faith, directed by Hanung Bramantyo, features a bold script in which Christian, Muslim, and Buddhist characters come into conflict. The trailer ends controversially with the phrase, “What is Islam?” Three new Lao films also appear in the schedule. The trailer for Banana Pancakes and The Children of Sticky Rice, directed by Daan Veldhuizen, is beautifully shot, and promises a story in which backpackers come upon bangkok101.com

exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

Banana Pancakes and The Children of Sticky Rice

City of Jade

a small village in remote northern Laos in search of a traditional experience, an encounter that changes both groups (the other two films are Love Forever and The River Flows). “When we started the festival in 2010, there were only one or two Lao feature films per year being made,” says Kuperman. “Now it’s up to four or five a year.” Another documentary to look forward to is City of Jade, by Myanmar-born Taiwanese director Midi Z, which Variety describes as “an absorbing and highly personal essay filmed in a war-torn northern Myanmar where fortune hunters illegally mine the valuable mineral.” The nighttime venue for screenings is the handicraft market at the main intersection in town. It’s entirely outdoors, with seating for over 1,500 people. During the day, events shift to the Sofitel Luang Prabang, a five-star resort housed in stately French colonial buildings, in a screening room which can seat up to 75. The Luang Prabang Film Festival continues to grow every year, and in order to accommodate increasing interest and to include more activities, this year an extra night was added. In one of the most exciting new developments this year, visiting members of the Tribeca Film Institute will lead the ‘LPFF Talent Lab: Grant Writing and Project Pitching’. In addition, each year the festival highlights the cinema of one ASEAN member nation. Last year the all-day discussion program focused on Cambodia, while this year the spotlight falls on Philippine filmmaking. Sixteen Luang Prabang hotels are partnering with the festival with special rates and shuttle transport. For further information on accommodations and on the festival, itself, check the official website at: www.lpfilmfest.org

WHERE TO STAY

Before the Fall

Accommodation options in Luang Prabang abound, but as the official partner hotel of the film fest the Hotel Sofitel Luang Prabang is ground zero for much of the festival activity. Which means staying in one of the 25 elegant villa suites—ranging in size from spacious to palatial—means you’ll be close to all the action. This century-old colonial mansion, built in the 1900s, also features lush botanical gardens and fine dining at the Governor’s Grill steakhouse restaurant. Tel: +856 71 260 777 www.sofitel.com At the BelleRive Boutique Hotel guests will enjoy a central location, close to everything, plus calming, magnificent views of the Mekong River. The property features three colonial houses, and offers 13 rooms in five different room categories. All rooms are furnished in an elegant mix of traditional Lao and contemporary design. The hotel also features a terrace restaurant overlooking the river.

A Yellow Bird bangkok101.com

Tel: +856 71 260 733 www.thebellerive.com

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FOOD & DRINK |

Chef Stefano Borra at Enoteca 68 | DECEM BER 2016

bangkok101.com

| FOOD & DRINK

AROY michelin star power

Direct from Italy, Chef STEFANO BORRA from the Michelin-starred restaurant Vo, in Turin has recently taken over the kitchen at ENOTECA restaurant (39, Sukhumvit Soi 27). Tucked away down a quiet street, this gourmet taverna is known for serving authentic Italian fare, complete with an exclusive wine list of 400+ labels. Now, after working at many prestigious restaurants in both France and Italy, and having been awarded a Michelin star for his own restaurant in Turin in 2012, Chef Borra puts his own special twist on the classic Italian dishes at this Bangkok favourite. Look out for tantalizing dishes such as the golden onion filled with braised quail, or the slow cooked suckling pig.

brunch at the ‘bird Now that they’ve launched their delectable weekend brunch menu, there’s even more reason to visit FREEBIRD restaurant (28, Sukhumvit Soi 47). Chef DALLAS CUDDY has come up with an evocative array of Saturday and Sunday temptations, including: poached eggs with green chili, roasted corn and furikake; bagel with creamed leek, dill, scrambled eggs and blue swimmer crab; and chocolate and banana French toast with salted caramel and vanilla ice cream. In addition, there’s treats from the bar such as classic Bloody Marys and Bellinis, or try their ‘Dark’ martini made with rum, espresso, condensed milk, chicory, and coconut. Brunch both days runs from 11am till 3pm.

true taste of thailand Since 2014 Chef ROSSARIN SRIPRATHUM has led the kitchen team at CELADON, located in the SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK hotel (13/3 South Sathorn Rd), and through her ‘Highlight of the Month’ campaign she’s been introducing secret recipes and rare Thai cuisine to both local Thai and international connoisseurs—she’s already introduced close to 150 special dishes! Her most recent revamped menu presents tastefully prepared Thai dishes in eight categories—appetizers, salads and soups, live seafood, main courses from the charcoal grill, curries, noodles and rice, vegetarian dishes, and desserts. It’s a definite stop for anyone seeking a true taste of Thailand.

diner debut Homesick North Americans hankering for a taste of true “Americana” should head over to the Asok intersection area to the newly opened CITY SKYLINE diner (36/9, Sukhumvit Soi 21), which serves hearty meals in true Yankee fashion. From burgers to mac and cheese, and everything in-between—including ribs, onion rings, fresh baked apple pies, and a whole lot more. Owner KATHERINE APHAIVONGS also whips up hearty breakfasts, served from as early as 7am on weekdays, so tuck into some country fried steak and eggs with milk gravy, or opt for a stack of six-inch pancakes.

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DECEM BER 2016 | 69

FOOD & DRINK | festive meal deals

Christmas Eve Dinner at Elements Restaurant Okura Prestige Bangkok | Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com

Enjoy Christmas Eve Dinner with a combination of signature French cuisine and Japanese influences. Menu choices vary from foie gras in Christmas spices to roast turkey ballotine with danshaku potato mousseline, and roast lamb loin with sansho pepper. There will be two sittings offered, the first from 6pm-8pm (serving a 5-course menu, priced at B3,800++ per person), and the second from 8:30pm onwards (serving a 6-course menu at B4,600++ per person). Both deals include a glass of champagne or signature cocktail.

7-Course Christmas Kaiseki Menu at Kisso The Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 | www.westingrandesukhumvit.com

Get set for a lavish festive menu for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (December 24th and 25th). The deal includes a 7-course Christmas Kaseki (traditional, multi-course meal) menu, priced at B3,000++ per set. Highlights include spicy sweet prawn and avocado salad, red snapper clear soup, Japanese Wagyu beef with Eringi mushroom, Hokkaido crab in pepper hot pot, and soufflé rolled cake and cake mille crepes. Lunch is served from noon to 2:30pm, and dinner runs from 6pm-10:30pm.

Christmas Buffet at The Glass House Restaurant Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok | 33/1 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 210 8100 | www.eastingrandsathorn.com

Celebrate the holidays with delicious food and magical memories. On Christmas Day (December 25th), the chef team will be offering up an international buffet which features a selection of seafood on ice, international favourites, and a traditional roast turkey and ham station. Opt for either the lunch or dinner buffet. The price is B1,650 net (B1,950 net with soft drinks and beer, and B2,250 net including free-flow wine). Children under 12 year receive a 50% discount.

New Year’s Eve Dinner Buffet at Atelier Restaurant Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit | 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4123 | www.pullmanhotels.com

Ring in 2017 with a celebratory buffet featuring a seafood station, as well as carving stations with premium meats and other buffet highlights. This promotion is priced at B2,500++ per person, including free flow soft drinks and a glass of complimentary sparkling wine for the midnight countdown toast at InBlu bar. Also, you can add B800++ per person to get free-flow beer, house wines, sparkling wine, and selected cocktails, or add B1,200++ per person for an upgraded beverage package.

Celebrate NYE at Rembrandt’s Award-Winning Outlets Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok | 19, Sukhumvit Soi 18 Tel: 02 261 7000 | www.rembrandtbkk.com

The Rembrandt hotel offers fabulous New Year’s Eve dining promotions at its three famous restaurants. First there’s the Sabado Dinner Party at the Mexicano, where the all-you-can-eat menu is priced at B1,600 net. Or, opt for the tango buffet at Flowers restaurant, which is also priced at B1,600 net. Finally, the internationally recognized Rang Mahal, is presenting a gala buffet dinner for B3,700 net per person. These festive season promotions are sure to please families, couples, and friends alike.

New Year’s Eve Celebration at The Drunken Leprechaun Four Points by Sheraton | 4, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3126 | www.fourpointsbangkoksukhumvit.com

Spend your very last moment of the year in the company of little green men (and others) at The Drunken Leprechaun. Enjoy a special drinking deal on December 31st wherein all guests will get a 4-hour beer buffet (Singha or Asahi), priced at just B1,000. The beer promotion runs from 9pm to 1am. There will also be a complementary roasted piglet on offer, from 9pm onwards, in case you get peckish. And to make your last moments of the year even more memorable, live bands will be performing from 8pm onwards.

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festive meal deals | FOOD & DRINK

Father’s Day Celebration at SO Sofitel Bangkok SO Sofitel Bangkok | 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 | www.sofitel.com

This Father’s Day (December 5th), take Dad on a gastronomic dining experience with an amazing view overlooking Lumphini Park. Enjoy the Red Oven Brunch, from noon to 3pm, priced at only B1,950++ per person, or B2,350++ per person including free flow wine. All fathers will receive lobster, Wagyu beef and a Wine & Dine voucher valued at B1,000. Another dining option is at Park Society. All fathers get a complimentary bottle of wine for tables with minimum of 3 persons for dinner, from 6pm to 10:30pm.

Celebrate the Festive Season at J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain U Sathorn Bangkok | 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 | www.jaime-bangkok.com

Indulge with one of the extravagant French degustation menus—on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and/or New Year’s Eve—at J’Aime, created by the restaurant’s Michelin Star Chef and his culinary team. The Christmas Eve 7-course dinner is priced at B3,999 per person including a welcome drink and coffee or tea. The Christmas Day Mega Brunch is priced at B2,999 per person including coffee or tea. Finally, the New Year’s Eve 7-course dinner is priced at B4,999 per person with a glass of champagne and coffee or tea.

Savour the Festive Flavours at Latest Recipe Le Méridien Bangkok | 40/5 Surawong Rd. Tel: 02 232 8888 | www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com

This Christmas Eve, surprise yourself and your loved ones with international festive dishes—from mouth-watering freshly-carved roasts, to fresh seafood on ice. Highlight items include pan-fried foie gras, Alaskan king crab, fin de clair, and a sumptuous dessert corner featuring Christmas treats and pastries. Dinner is served from 6pm to 10pm, and is priced at B1,699 net which includes one glass of sparkling wine, or B2,099 net which allows guests free flow on select sparkling wine, red and white wines, and beer.

Festive Season at The Riverside Terrace Mandarin Oriental Bangkok | 48 Oriental Avenue Tel: 02 659 9000 | www.mandarinorientalbankgok.com

Celebrate Christmas with friends and loved ones at The Riverside Terrace. This year’s Festive offerings include a superb selection of gourmet cuisine, coupled with a unique sense of place and, of course, the legendary Mandarin Oriental service. Two dining options of dining are available, starting with the Christmas Eve Buffet Dinner, priced at B6,000 net per adult, and B4,150 net per child. Then, on December 31st, the New Year’s Eve Gala Buffet Dinner is priced at B20,000 net per guest and B13,500 net per child.

White Truffle Delights at Biscotti Restaurant Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel | 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 | siam-bangkok.anantara.com

Throughout December, discover the white truffle with a special degustation and à la carte menu featuring a variety of inspirational dishes with unique truffle twists, including Tartar di Manzo, and beef tartar with quail eggs and Alba truffle. Guests can also indulge in sumptuous seafood, pasta and meat dishes that showcase this culinary prize. Lunch is served from 11:30am till 2pm, and dinner from 6pm to 10:30pm. The price for à la carte starts from B1,200++, while the price for the set menu is B3,600++ (wine not included).

Experience a Delightful Thai Twist at Osha Osha Thai Restaurant & Bar | 99 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 256 6555 | www.oshabangkok.com

Heighten your dining experience with Osha Thai Bangkok’s special promotion, entitled ‘Come 4 Pay 3’, and get a bottle of Chandon Australian sparkling along with your sumptuous 8-course set menu. The exclusive delectable dishes include variety of gourmet treats, such as spicy seafood soup, New Zealand lamb, potatoes with Southern Thai Mussaman curry, and a selection of Thai desserts. Offer runs until December 20th and is priced at B2,600 per person. Osha is open daily from 11am to 2:30pm, and 6pm to 11pm.

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DECEM BER 2016 | 71

FOOD & DRINK | hot plates

Cantina

Ari’s new Italian eatery is a tasty trattoria with a neighbourly vibe

veryone loves their neighbourhood local. The concept of a place near your home that serves up reliable meals—where everybody knows your name—has been around for centuries. So when Mat Milotich, a local wine importer, noticed he’d been living in Bangkok’s Ari district for years but the area still didn’t have an authentic Italian restaurant, he decided to do something about it. Cantina Wine Bar & Italian Kitchen is patterned after a subterranean wine cellar and has the feel of a dimly lit tavern. The concept is clearly more trattoria than fine dining, with a focus on quality ingredients. The restaurant sources authentic produce from Thailand whenever possible, creating relationships with local suppliers, and has even gone so far as to check the sustainability of some of its contractors, such as with tuna from the Maldives. The staff are at ease discussing menu choices with customers, including the merits of sausage from a particular region of Italy, while Mat is there most nights making folks feel welcome. Cantina also makes its own limoncello, which displays a clean, smooth finish and a lower proof than usual. A salad of white anchovies (alici), fennel, shallots and orange slices (B220) provided a tart start to the evening thanks to lemon juice and fennel that really made the dish pop. Smoked burrata (B440) with farm fresh heirloom tomatoes and basil followed, with cheese procured from a Thai dairy. Meanwhile, the Luganiga pork (B420)—with stracciatella cheese on a bed of mashed potatoes, rocket, cherry tomatoes and carmelized onions—featured a grilled mild sausage from Southern Italy. Pasta is where the kitchen really shines, turning out a Paccheri Siciliana (B290) using spicy salami, bell peppers, tomatoes, garlic, chili and a lovely smoked scamorza cheese along with parmesan. One of the 72 | DECEM BER 2016

eatery’s owners asked the pasta chef to make his best dish on the spot, and this smoky, earthy, salty masterpiece was what he came up with. A tip of the cap also to Mamma Maria’s lasagna (B280), a 50/50 pork-beef split using the family recipe. Upstairs houses a pizza oven with a generous menu and a smoking patio. While not usually a fan of Panna cotta (B150), Cantina’s version with strawberry sauce was so light and delicate it provided a perfect counterbalance to my heavy entrées. The restaurant has been open since October, and while they currently offer wines by the glass, they’ll be expanding their selection

to bottles quite soon. It’s also worth noting that the owner’s family makes their own wine in Slovenia—under the Edi Simčič label—bottles of which are featured at the restaurant, including the Giocato brand. Their 2014 Giocato Sauvignon Blanc delivers a pleasant mineral tang, the result of its being cultivated at high altitude without irrigation. by Robin Banks

Cantina Wine Bar & Italian Kitchen

4, Ari Samphan 3 Alley Tel: 02 278 0250 Open daily: 5pm-midnight www.facebook.com/cantinabkk bangkok101.com

SABADO SABADOSABROSO SABROSO

SATURDAY SATURDAYBRUNCH BRUNCHWITH WITHALTITUDE ALTITUDE ♦♦♦ ♦

A LA A LA CARTE CARTE BUFFET BUFFET THB THB 1,290++ 1,290++ perper person person / 11.30 / 11.30 - 14.30 - 14.30 hrs. hrs. Every Every Saturday Saturday at at UNO UNO MAS MAS Level Level 54,54, Centara Centara Grand Grand at at CentralWorld CentralWorld All prices All prices are are subject subject to 10% to 10% service service andand 7% 7% government government tax tax

FORFOR RESERVATIONS RESERVATIONS PLEASE PLEASE CONTACT CONTACT T: 02-100-6255 T: 02-100-6255E: diningcgcw@chr.co.th E: diningcgcw@chr.co.thunomasbangkok.com unomasbangkok.com UNOMASBANGKOK UNOMASBANGKOK

UNOMAS_BANGKOK UNOMAS_BANGKOK

@UNOMASBANGKOK @UNOMASBANGKOK

FOOD & DRINK | review

Le Du

Seasonal specialties enliven Bangkok’s fine dining scene

ouldn’t we all want every restaurant to be like this? The food is much fancier than the décor, the creativity unannounced, the staff solicitous without being obnoxious, the chef humble and boyish or better yet, nowhere to be seen, the final result all much better in the tongue than they sound on the written menu, that menu so straightforward and unvarnished that one can’t choose wrong. Le Du, housed down a Chong Nonsi alley in a 70s-style room with its low glittery ceilings most reminiscent of a failing hotel’s struggling lobby, sounds like a French restaurant, but in fact, it’s a play on the Thai word for “seasonal”— which is exactly what its dishes are. While his empire has expanded since, and a planned second-floor for the place hopefully won’t cause the casual atmosphere to yield to unchecked ambitions, this is the first and favourite offspring of Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Thassanakajohn, who returned from culinary school and apprenticeships in some of New York’s highest-ranked establishments (Jean-

74 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6

Georges, Eleven Madison Park, etc.) to enliven and re-invigorate Thailand’s previously stuffy fine dining scene. Un-stuff, he has, as first to last bite of his tasting menu reveals (B2,590 for seven dishes, B1,290 for four). But such a menu isn’t entirely necessary as the à la carte menu is laid out plainly through headings referring to main ingredients only: Barracuda (B400), Wild Mushroom (B400), Pineapple (B250) and so on. Such simplicity is deceptive, however, which is perhaps the main aim of Chef Ton’s craft, as well as trickery. In the manner of haute cuisine’s main worldwide trend, that combination of inherited inspiration from Tetsuya to tapas, the handmade pottery dishes are small wonders of concentrated combinations: chili gel and spicy cilantro granite on a single, perhaps overlarge oyster, raw squid informed with Thai herbs and lemon gel, the aforementioned barracuda combined with pomelo bits and “Siam tulips”, whatever they are. A beef tenderloin (B1,290), already succulent, is actually improved by young coconut

shoots and a hint of green curry. Here, the Thai-ness is brought out only when needed and not for the sake of bragging. Further details are probably not required, since the current offerings have no doubt changed, as they do often. Oddly enough, it’s only with desserts that the Chef goes full-on. A pork blood pudding with basil ice cream? Even dill ice cream? Lychee panna cotta? Refreshingly, nothing about these menu items is a platform for showing off. It’s all for flavour, and to make best use of the seasons—such as they present themselves in Thailand to someone who knows how to carefully source. This is not 101’s first review of Le Du, nor will it be the last. Instead, cooking like this deserves repeat mentions and visits. by John Krich

Le Du

399/3, Silom Soi 5 Tel: 092 919 9969 Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-10pm www.ledubkk.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Morimoto

The Iron Chef finds a home in a tower of glass and steel

f there’s one restaurant that truly lives up to the elegance, demographics and futuristic promise of the MahaNakhon Cube— that smooth modernist facade to Bangkok’s tallest and most jagged skyscraper—then it’s Morimoto, the latest cubist entry. This is the first, and most overdue, representative in Southeast Asia of a dozen-restaurant chain begun 15 years back, and it’s worth a visit simply to sit in and enjoy its brilliant interior, which combines cutting-edge lines with Japanese-style purity, featuring daring light fixtures and highlighted by a long undulating roof of wooden slats. Of course, both its name and claim to fame stem from the founder’s years as a hard-to-beat mainstay of the Iron Chef TV cooking competitions, both in his native country (Japan) and in the U.S. However, the bespectacled and unsmiling Masaharu Morimoto-san of the image, whipping up concoctions of enormous East-West complexity, doesn’t seem to match the menu here. Indeed, if there were adjectives to best capture the food, they would probably run along the lines of comfortable, accessible, playful and basic. bangkok101.com

There’s a sushi bar here that makes for a perfect homage to tradition, and again, is probably more aesthetically pleasing in design than any in Bangkok—as are the several outdoor terrace areas and one breathtaking private VIP room. But the main boast, and attraction for most who come here, especially for the surprisingly modest-priced lunch, are decidedly Westernized creations like the Tuna pizza (B390) that’s more like an open tostada generously drizzled with aioli flavoured with anchovy (what exactly are the roots of the Japanese love affair with mayonnaise, if not part of the generalized cult of blandness?). By contrast, a more predictable Wagyu beef carpaccio (B750) was nicely scented with yuzu. While I was hoping for something more hard-core Japanese, my twelveyear-old daughter gave a hearty thumbs-up to the Kakuni Banh Mi burger (B490), actually an Asianinfluenced pulled pork sandwich, as well as the ‘Angry Chicken’ lunch set (B590) where the tempuraaccompanied chunks of thigh were perfectly peppery, nothing to anger

young stomachs—especially when finished with a S’more (B350), where marshmallow is mixed with just a hint of soy. Who knew? Dinners are more serious, to be sure, and there’s a good sampling of specialized drinks—in particular the Kyuri (B320), which combines cucumber, absinthe, gin and lemongrass—and all the fish, flown from Tsukuji Market in Tokyo, is as first-rate as to be expected. But I couldn’t help wondering if Morimoto is supposed to be a kind of globalized coffee shop, an upscale ramen stand, or a downscale Nobu. Or, simply a streamlined lair to provide visual and spiritual respite from the crowded sidewalks below? Maybe it’s just a Morimoto, something slightly fishy but decidedly a thing unto itself, defying labels. by John Krich

Morimoto

4F, MahaNakhon Cube 96 Narathiwas Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 060 9099 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/MorimotoBangkok DECEM BER 2016 | 75

FOOD & DRINK | review

Eat Me

Taking a bite out Chef Tim Butler’s ever-evolving menu

estaurants in Bangkok tend to come and go with the regularly of lunar cycles, but establishments such as Eat Me, which has been holding steady for almost two decades now, buck that trend with a vengeance. So what’s the secret? Start with a cool, modernist décor, add to it a top-notch wait staff who know what they’re doing and what they’re serving (a rarity in some restaurants), and top it off with an experienced chef who knows how to wow without resorting to “foam” anything—molecular gastronomy’s most unappealing legacy. But innovation is important too. “We’re constantly refreshing the menu, the art, and the restaurant itself,” explains American-born Chef Tim Butler, who has been helming the kitchen here for the past seven years. “The orange furniture downstairs we just put in last week, and the art rotates quarterly. It’s supplied by H Gallery. We own the tables and chairs, and H owns the walls. “Right now we’re doing a Smoked swordfish belly [B650],” continues 76 | DECEM BER 2016

Butler, as he lists some of the recently added menu items. “We’re also doing a Veal tongue [B500] which is new. The Duck confit [B690] is a menu classic, but with the new components and such it has changed.” The chef’s assured culinary skill is evident when the aforementioned dishes arrive for tasting. The tongue, served with black garlic aioli, kimchi, and slivers of green apple, is butter soft but full of meaty flavour—and will win over anyone skeptical about trying tongue for the first time. The succulent swordfish belly, served with salsa fresca, nori and Serrano ham, is also tender beyond words, while the delicious duck confit, paired with tabasco mayo and bacon jam, is beautifully moist inside and perfectly crispy outside. However, the breaded and deep-fried duck egg that completes this dish might be overkill for anyone watching their waistline. From the salad menu the White asparagus and caviar (B770), accented with a slice of Manchego cheese and a strip of jamon ham, is decadent and refreshing at the same time. We

also sampled the glorious Tamarind glazed quail (B750), accompanied by a heavenly foie gras and peanut brittle pate, but the Carabinero prawn risotto (B1,500) surprisingly stole the show. The pair of enormous prawns sitting atop the rice were tantalizing enough, but the fragrant saffron and chorizo risotto below stopped us midmouthful, and sent our eyes rolling back in a moment of foodie nirvana. Ignoring the dessert menu here would be criminal, so save room for the divine Sticky date pudding (B320), slathered in butterscotch sauce and complemented by a dollop of vanilla ice cream. Similarly, the inventive drink list shouldn’t be overlooked, whether you choose a somewhat classic White Sangria (B290), or a potent but playful Fig and Ginger Martini (B290). by Bruce Scott

Eat Me

1/6, Soi Phiphat 2 Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Blue Elephant

This New Year’s Eve, enjoy the modern essence of traditional Thai cuisine

ounded in 1980, master cook and “world Thai food ambassador” Chef Nooror Somany-Steppe opened her first Blue Elephant Thai restaurant in Belgium, before expanding her culinary empire to include branches in Europe, the Middle East, and finally here in Thailand—in the cuisine’s motherland—with one branch in Bangkok and one in Phuket. This New Year’s Eve, at the Bangkok location, the legendary restaurant will present a specially prepared menu (B3,800++/person). We recently enjoyed the exclusive privilege of sharing a table with Chef Nooror, who introduced each item personally. Leading off a suite of pre-starters was the Kai pra atit, a crispy riceberry omelette topped with stir-fried trout in red curry paste and Thai herbs. Best consumed in a single bite, the savoury dainty is a kaleidoscope of textures ranging from fluffily smooth to full-on crunchy. The Som tam bresse chicken features the exclusive French appellation d’origine contrôlée roast pullet taking a cameo role within an updated version of the ubiquitous Thai style salad, with fresh Thyme and macadamia nuts gently nudging the dish’s finish towards a westerly

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heading. Adorably fastened with an edible bow, Mieng Doi is a traditional north country hors d’oeuvre of dry coconut and shrimps, ginger and lime that cycles through a rainbow of flavours as you crunch through the cone of betel leaf wrapper. A starter of Spicy grilled lobster and avocado salad featured generous chunks of Mekong whisky-flambéed crustacean in a dressing of lime, roasted chili paste, and fresh lemongrass. Despite its decidedly un-Thai pedigree, the avocado came across as a perfectly integrated culinary expat amid the strongertasting native Asian ingredients. Smoked rosemary-braised duck followed, tucked beneath a thick slice of imported French grilled foie gras—its lightly-browned crust dancing an intriguing flavour tango with the sweetness of a strawberry purée topping. A triumph of innovative and taste-enhancing presentation, a Crab tom yam soup was served in the hollow of young coconut shell, with large bites of organic crab and Portobello mushroom bobbing within. A tea brewer containing a pungent potpourri of fresh Thai herbs steeps within the rich broth, supercharging the flavour and aroma, while tender

curls of coconut flesh—spoonscraped from the inner surface of the “bowl”—provided a pleasantly chewy, nutty-tasting accompaniment. The mains included a delicious boneless Crispy sturgeon in a black pepper-tea leaf sauce served with a crescent of grilled pumpkin, followed by a tender Sautéed lamb chop with aromatic Thai herbs, served with a rustic wooden vessel of red sticky rice, nicknamed ‘Forgotten Husband’ for its alluring flavour which is said to distract female diners from their love interests. Situated in a meticulously renovated old house, the stunning traditional setting at Blue Elephant enhances what is already a supremely enjoyable culinary experience which— in the spirit of its stylishly-hued pachyderm namesake—diners will not soon forget. In addition, all the organic produce used in this NYE menu is sourced from Royal Project farms. by Gary Barber

Blue Elephant

233 South Sathorn Rd. New Year’s Eve Dinner December 31st, 2016 6:30pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 673 9353 www.blueelephant.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Wine Connection Sipping and supping in style

hen it comes to choosing restaurants, there’s a lot to be said for consistency; finding a place you can visit time and time again with nary a bad plate of food served and decent service a given. Bangkok has fine eateries a-plenty, but few that offer great Western plates at a price not to be sneered at. As a newbie to the Land of Smiles (and overpriced imports) I’d yet to find that balance. But a recent visit to Wine Connection Tapas Bar & Bistro—located on the ground floor of the Rain Hill Project on the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 47—landed me squarely in that sweet spot, delivering a European dining experience with a Thai price tag. The Bangkok-based wine merchants began life as an importer of fine wines from around the world, eventually becoming the leading wine retail chain in Southeast Asia. Following its successes in the retail trade, the group stepped into the food arena, launching a number of delis, grills, and bistros throughout the city under the ‘Wine Connection’ umbrella. The food and drink concept proved to be another success for the brand, and the Rain Hill location is amongst their most popular ventures. Indeed, a Friday night at the trendy bar was at full capacity, with patrons either settling down to sample the restaurant’s brand new food menu, or propping up the bar with a glass of wine from the extensive cellar. The food team, led by French hospitality pro Stephane Carric, launched the new menu in November, and my inaugural visit to the stylish eatery was perfectly timed to test out some of the new additions, which included: an appetizer of Vine ripened tomatoes with fresh burrata cheese (B260), Slow-cooked duck confit with sautéed potatoes (B340), and Banofee pie (B110). As the popular spot buzzed with the sound of guests enjoying their reasonably priced fare, I soon joined the chorus of praise, delighting at the bangkok101.com

simplicity of my starter, the wholesome comfort of the main, and the smooth, sweet familiarity of the dessert. But what would all this delicious dining be without the wining? The bistro boasts a spectacular selection of exclusive wines shipped from all over the world from small, independent wineries. Thanks to its roots in importing, there’s no middle man here to take a cut of the profits which means the restaurant can offer their grape juice at prices far cheaper than other restaurants of this ilk. Bottles start from just B549 and there’s more than your usual choice of wines-by-the-glass available too. My

recommendation? A 2015 Paua Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand at B890. Like summer in a glass, the light, crisp white was the perfect accompaniment to a great meal (and came free from a hangover too!). by Annaliese Watkins

Wine Connection Tapas Bar & Bistro

777 Rain Hill Project Corner of Sukhumvit Soi 47 Open: Mon-Sat, 11am-1:30am, Sun, 11am-midnight Tel: 02 261 7217 www.wineconnection.co.th DECEM BER 2016 | 79

FOOD & DRINK | review

Uno Mas

Tapas, grills, seafood… the “height” of Spanish cuisine

ith its expansive menu of authentic Spanish specialties, coupled with spectacular city views, Uno Mas—the chic tapas bar and restaurant located on the 54th floor of the Centara Grand Bangkok hotel—reaches new “heights” in several respects. The circular suite of adjoining bar/ tapas/dining venues is a perfect choice for a night of sophisticated tippling and fabulous food. The restaurant’s Catalonia-born Chef de Cuisine Joan Tanya Dot has made it his mission to charm the palates of the city’s discerning diners with authentically rendered highlights of his country’s culinary heritage. The voluminous menu is big on tapas—those bite-sized traditional Spanish dainties whose emergence on the world gastro scene has made finger food a respectable mealtime option. A mainstay of tapas culture, Pa amb tomaquet (B90), arrives first on the table—a fine-gauge tomato purée with garlic and olive oil slathered across thin slices of Spain’s renowned “crystal” bread. This pairs nicely with the 36-month-aged Jamon Iberico “Bellota” Gran Reserva (B990/50g). Served as paper-thin strips, this acorn-fed ham is sourced from legendary producer Joselito, whose cured pork is widely regarded as among the world’s finest. The carabineros Spanish red prawn tartare (B1,150) is just-off-theboat fresh, and served with the bright crimson crustacean heads which, when squeezed, decant a seasoning of soy sauce, aioli and natural juices. By contrast the Huevos rotos (B250)— essentially a one-bite breakfast you can eat any time—feature crispy mashed potato nuggets topped with yolk-up quail eggs, piquillo peppers, and sobrassada minced raw pork, while the Deep-fried Padrones peppers with sea salt (B290) make for a slightly tongue-tingling, earthy flavoured accompaniment. For a refreshing palate cleanser,

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the ‘Bubbly’ Sangria (B290)—a houseconcocted version of the well-known Spanish wine-and-fruit punch—is a charming choice. This long and slightly sweet drink is a lovely blend of sparkling wine, Absolut vodka, cinnamon, and fresh strawberry. After this appetite-whetting medley of light fare delicacies we are as anxious as a red cape-provoked fighting bull to get to the mains. Chef Joan wows our party with his take on the classic Spanish specialty Arroz Negro, also known as black ink paella (B2,450). Made with stout, barrelshaped bomba rice, infused with fish stock and squid-ink, the plating sees more carabineros red prawns, plus some txipirones baby squid, swimming in the dark sea of grains—served traditional style in a wide cooking pan.

But the evening’s main event was the enormous, 1-kilogram, thick-cut T-bone steak known as Txuleton Txogitxu (B4,999). Dry-aged for 140 days, the steak is cooked to perfection in the restaurant’s Josper oven. Desserts (B295/ea.) here are as devilishly indulgent as one might expect, ranging from Chocolate cheesecake made with imported Valrhona chocolate, to Torriga French toast with yogurt ice cream, and a Catalan style crème brulée with salted caramel ice cream. by Gary Barber

Uno Mas Tapas & Raw Bar 54F, Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 4pm-1am Tel: 02 100 6255 www.unomasbangkok.com

bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Dine in the Dark

No Instagramming at Sheraton Grande’s one-of-a-kind eatery

f you’re willing to plunge blindly into a dining experience like no other, then visit Dine in the Dark (DID), located on the ground floor of the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit hotel. Your four-course meal features both international and Thai fine cuisine, but the setting is one of absolute darkness, and the impeccable table service is provided by Thai servers—here called guides—who are entirely vision impaired. In many ways the DID experience is an exercise in coping—compelling diners to function in an unfamiliar environment using previously untapped instincts and intuitive skills. At the same time, it is the ultimate lesson in empathy, providing an immersive and hyper-realistic taste of what life is really like for those who deal with blindness as an everyday fact of life. The restaurant’s guides display impressive English speaking skills, and their specialist training is evident in the smooth execution of the delicate and complex job of serving multicourse meals while mentoring their temporarily de-sighted guests through the intricacies of sightlessness. And the fact that it is impossible to view a menu in the light-lacking ambience is a moot point at DID, because diners are not told in advance what they will be eating, though meal choices are given categories—Western, Thai, Vegetarian, or Chef’s Surprise. It’s not until after the meal that diners discover if what they think they had is what they actually had. Let that sink in for a moment: two of the most taken-for-granted elements of restaurant dining— namely, the ability to see and to choose one’s preference—are left at the door. Of course, there’s no desire to trick guests into eating something undesirable, so staff carefully question each guest about any special dietary restrictions, which are strictly honoured. Furthermore, everything on your plate will be entirely edible—no 82 | DECEM BER 2016

bones, shells, or seeds are ever plated—and no dishes containing beef or pork are served. Before stepping foot into the blacked-out dining chamber, diners are given a stylish apron in case of any (perfectly understandable) spills, along with the key to a lock box into which cell phones, LED wristwatches, or any other light-emitting accessory is secured for the duration of the meal. DID takes its darkness very seriously. Finally, we arrive at the entrance to the dining darkroom where we meet our guide—Khun Noi in this case—who instructs us, in perfect English, to form a kind of ad hoc Rhumba line with her at the head, and our hands on the shoulders of the person in front. Clearly, this is not something we are accustomed to doing in public, but here at the threshold of the abyss one quickly learns the value of trust and our little human choo-choo train proceeds past the velvet bulkhead and into the pitch black. After a few hesitant steps, a couple of unseen turns, and a few giggles later we arrive at our seats. In the almost tangible darkness, Noi guides our hands to the table and offers a few encouraging words before excusing herself, leaving each of us alone/together in the blackness— linked only by voice. A bit of initial confusion quickly dissipated as our party instinctively sounds off one-byone to establish relative proximities, while our fingers tap gingerly across familiar shapes of a place-setting. Once Noi returns with the first course, getting the food and silverware to cooperate is purely a hit-or-miss affair. With no lights, everything on the plate is eligible to become “fingerfood”, making the meal a “hands-on” experience… literally. Just about every bite, from every course, sets up a gustatory parallax. “Was that turkey—no wait… or was it duck I just ate?” But rather than causing uncertainty, the gobbling

guesswork creates an intriguing new dining dimension as taste-buds and fingertips team up to figure out what’s being consumed. Though the menus vary, each course is carefully designed to include a standard complement of flavours and textures: something sweet, something soft, something crunchy, etc, and while we will not reveal what we were actually served, in order to preserve the mystique, we will say that almost every one of our guesses was incorrect. YES we were fooled, and YES it was delicious, so YES… we will gladly be fooled again. Mr. Robert Wittebrood, the Sheraton Grande’s Executive Assistant Manager and one of the key players in getting the DID concept in place at the hotel, explained after our meal how he has long been intrigued by the Dine in the Dark concept. “When you talk about the food experience, sight is key,” he remarks. “But DID removes the element of sight, making the meal itself the main topic of [dinner table] discussion.” “I tried unsuccessfully for nearly eight years to bring DID to the Sheraton, but management was not keen on the idea,” he goes on to say. “But then, as fate would have it, some years later the [then-]Thailand licensee actually showed up here at the hotel looking for a new site after losing their first location.” And thus, amid the glittering lights of Sukhumvit Road, darkness was born! NOTE: The four-course set menu is priced at B1,450++ and a portion of each bill is donated to the Thailand Foundation for the Blind. by Gary Barber

Dine in the Dark

GF, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 6:30pm-9:30pm Tel: 02 649-8358 www.dineinthedarkbangkok.com bangkok101.com

holiday menus | FOOD & DRINK

SO Festive!

Oh, by gosh by golly, it’s time for mistletoe and holly!

or most expats and travellers the last few weeks of December is the time for family and friends, marked by Christmas celebrations, lavish meals, and lots of presents. Getting into the festive spirit used to be a challenge here in Bangkok, but every year this cosmopolitan capital gets more and more Christmas-crazy. And, once again, the SO Sofitel Bangkok unleashes their cornucopia of holiday events with a lavish promotion they call Once Upon a Wonderland. Indulge in sumptuous brunches and dinners on both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, followed by exciting DJ parties to ring in the New Year. Then, on New Year’s Day, ease yourself into 2017 with a peaceful poolside brunch or a hangoverthemed BBQ buffet.

DECEMBER 24-25 Brunch Buffet @Red Oven: 12pm-3pm Price: B2,500 per adult (B3,000/free flow beer and wine), B1,250 per child Dinner Buffet @Red Oven: 6pm-11pm Price: B2,500 per adult (B3,000/free flow beer and wine), B1,250 per child bangkok101.com

5-Course Degustation Dinner @Park Society: 6pm-11pm Price: B4,900 (B5,900/wine pairing)

DECEMBER 31 Dinner Buffet with DJ @Red Oven: 6pm-11pm Price: B4,000 per adult, B2,000 per child (includes free entry to the water club countdown party) Romantic Premium Seafood Buffet Under the Stars @Solarium: 6pm-11pm Price: B6,000 per adult (inclusive of free flow beer and wine), B2,500 per child (includes the water club countdown party) 6-Course Degustation Dinner @Park Society: 6pm-11pm Price: B9,500 (B13,000/wine pairing) DJ Countdown Party @The Water Club: 10:30pm-1am Price: B1,500 (inclusive 2 drinks), no advance reservation required DJ Countdown Party @ Park Society Terrace: 9pm-1am Price: B4,500 (inclusive free flow wine, beer, selected cocktails, and one canapé platter per table)

DJ Countdown Party* @HI-SO Rooftop Bar: 9pm-1am Price: B6,500 (inclusive canapés from 9 p.m.-11 p.m. and free flow wine, beer, and selected cocktails all night) *reservations required

Private Countdown Party @HI-SO Rooftop Bar: 9pm-1am Price: B120,000 for maximum 15 guests (inclusive mini buffet with free flow wine, beer, and selected cocktails all night)

JANUARY 1 New Year Brunch @Red Oven: 12pm-4pm Price: B2,500 per adult (B3,000/free flow beer and wine), B1,250 per child Sunday DJ Session @The Water Club: 12pm-4pm Price: B1,200 (inclusive hangoverthemed BBQ buffet with free flow Bloody Mary and detox juices)

SO Sofitel Bangkok Hotel

2 North Sathorn Rd. For more information, or to reserve your tickets, call 02 624 0000 or email: h6835-fb3@sofitel.com. www.sofitel.com DECEM BER 2016 | 83

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Chefs Thomas and Mathias Sühring Dynamic Teutonic twins from Sühring restaurant talk about bringing modern German cuisine to Bangkok

hink of your last German meal and what comes to mind? Was it a pleasant memory? Identical-twin brothers Thomas and Mathias Sühring want to change stereotypes about German cuisine, with a contemporary take on their homeland’s flavours. The duo hail from Berlin and after receiving their culinary training from the national team, they decided to drive door-to-door to many of the

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country’s top restaurants and knock on doors. It sounds quaint but it worked. “None of the restaurants were interested, but several referred us to Sven Elverfeld in Wolfsburg, who was running a one-star Michelin eatery. He was our mentor and by the time we left his place had three Michelin stars,” says Thomas. The pair actually split to work their way up the culinary ladder—one heading to Holland, the other to

Rome—before a gourmet festival had them both visiting Thailand. An impressive showing got them an offer at Mezzaluna in Lebua Tower, where they worked for seven years before hanging out their own shingle at Sühring. “Twenty years ago when we started, being a chef was not popular like it is today. For a while we were doing what we thought we should do in the profession, rather than what we wanted to do,” Mathias points out. bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

“We have lived in the Yen Akat area for several years, and have wanted to start something like this for a while,” adds Thomas. “We felt like we couldn’t express our roots, and the concept of this restaurant goes back to those memories we had as children helping out in our grandparents’ kitchen during school holidays.” The brothers are not fond of the ideal of fine dining, so Sühring aims to be casual and homey, but at the same time elegant. “Having a good time, eating good food… this is uncomplicated,” explains Mathias. But there is nothing simple about their dishes: pretzel bread with obatzda aged camembert cheese and paprika; a German flat oyster served with apple and beer vinegar; Caesar salad on crispy chicken skin; seven different herbs emulsified into a green bubble; a salad of 27 types of leaves with artichoke dressing; Bayrisch sauerkraut with caviar on a caraway seed crisp; Black Forest deer pan-roasted in butter with mushroom sauce; and tingling buckwheat bangkok101.com

ice cream with Bartlett pear and cinnamon mousse. And these are just a portion of the dishes presented on their lavish 12-course tasting menu. “Globalization affects every cuisine. We are not blind to that, and we are open to inspiration from other parts of the world. But we want to maintain German flavours,” says Thomas. Not every ingredient in a German kitchen has to be from that country, he added, as produce from Alsace, Switzerland, northern Italy, Austria and Poland are a regular part of German cuisine. The duo’s drive for authenticity even led them to do the fermenting and pickling for the eatery as well as baking all of its bread. “We also wanted to showcase the wine and spirits of the region,” adds Mathias. The focus is on cool-climate wines from small vineyards, which the brothers believe pairs well with some of their distinctive flavours. Gaining popularity are orange wines, in which the skins of white wine grapes are given maceration time with the wine, giving the final product its hue.

The finale for Sühring’s tasting menu is egg liquor—a type of egg nog that brings back that sense memory the pair retain from their childhood. “This is our grandmother’s recipe and was the first alcoholic drink she would let us have,” says Mathias with a grin. Accentuating the homey atmosphere of the restaurant on Yen Akat Soi 3 is the knowledge that Mathias and Thomas live in the building. Take a moment to appreciate what the brothers are trying to do at Sühring. “This concept of German restaurant is unique not only for Bangkok, but most of the world. We took a big risk with this venture, and even though we believed in ourselves, the enthusiastic response surprised us,” Thomas admits. Open for half a year, the eatery has done good business, with 90% of the customers Thai, according to Thomas. “We are still experimenting and learning every day,” Mathias says in closing. “This is like a laboratory for us to create new dishes.” by Robin Banks DECEM BER 2016 | 85

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

Little Market

angkok is like a cat, with nine lives. It’s always transforming itself into something surprising. Without announcing anything in too grand a fashion, it’s constantly growing and glowing like a brand new baby flower unfolding in the morning. The section of Charoenkrung Road, around Talad Noi area, is especially like that—seemingly flourishing overnight. While I wonder and wander around this old school realm, the playful friendly colours of a mural painting on the side wall of the Oldtown Hostel shines its beam on me. The little roadway known as Charoenkrung Soi 28 is a new treasure, unfolding overnight (as I said before). I know already that the Black Pig Tattoo studio is inside this soi, to my left, but I know nothing about the inviting Chinese shophouse on my right. All I can see is that Little Market is the name written on the blackboard sign. I step inside, and immediately the funky-retro shop smells good to me. My eyes rove over a proper coffee machine and the tempting, simple breakfast menu, but what catches and holds these eyes of mine is a burger.

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 86 | DECEM BER 2016

This is what my ‘farang’ photographer friend told me about. Paddy said this (burger) patty cures his home sickness! Before food fully takes over my attention, I have a chance to admire the interior decoration, that gives the feeling of sitting in a friend’s living room with a wonderful mix-and-match style. Chinese bamboo lanterns hang over the counter like a string of Christmas lights, pop-art patterns are painted on the wall, and the polished stone cement floor is covered with a checkerboard pattern. And above it all, as a centerpiece, sit beautiful oldschool portraits of our beloved King and Queen of Thailand. Burgermeister Chet Adkins was formerly a chef for the Orlando Magic basketball team, and most recently helmed the kitchen at Ku De Ta Bangkok. Now he comes to flip the meat on the grill at his Little Market shop together with Jason Lang, a food lover and a veteran photographer, as well as other friends who are helping to turn this little joint into something special. No need for me to say anything about how I want my meat to be

cooked, as they know what they are doing with their burgers. I order the 270-day grain-fed Angus steak burger with cheese which comes with tater tots—what a unique treat! It arrives in the size of a homemade burger (not a giant “gourmet” burger, too big to hold on to). It’s comprised of a soft and delicious bun, hugging two juicy pieces of meat, perfectly portioned in a tower of taste (and suitable for my Thai-sized bite). One taste of the burger is a trip by itself. It’s succulent from top to bottom. The texture of the beef is soft but firm, and the bun is divine, both parts complimenting each other so well. I toss a couple of crispy tater tots in my mouth and start feeling greedy enough to order more right away. You know this feeling? The feeling of eating something so good and you don’t want it to end? Go and get that feeling at Little Market. Address: Little Market is in Soi Charoenkrung 28, and open daily from 8am8pm. They are only a month or so old. Check out their Facebook page for more info. www.facebook.com/littlemarketbkk bangkok101.com

Who will be the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016? The most exciting talent search for chefs in the world For more information visit www.finedininglovers.com

FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE

3F, Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn 33/1 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 093 135 5539 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.chefmanrestaurant.com

FRENCH Bai Yun

Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com

Chef Man

Cantonese classics in all their glory at this posh venue beloved for its dim sum and irresistible Peking duck.

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 126 9999 Open: Dinner, 7pm-10:30pm, Lounge, 5pm-1am www.sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit.com

INDIAN

The classic cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You might even find yourself trying to re-create certain ones the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com

Bawarchi

L’Appart

Bawarchi

One of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s penthouse. Traditional cuisine charts an adventurous new course.

The kind of curries you’ve been missing— rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious. Check out any one of Bawarchi’s Bangkok four locations. BF, Intercontinental Chidlom 973 Ploenchit Rd, Tel: 02 656 0101-3

listings | FOOD & DRINK 1F, Ambassador Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 253 2394 India-Thai Chamber of Commerce Building, Sathorn Soi 1, Tel: 02 677 6249 20/11, Sukhumvit Soi 4, Tel: 02 656 7357 www.bawarchiindian.com

Indique

The pocket-friendly food and drinks are bursting with modern touches without eschewing India’s rich culinary heritage. 28 Park Avenue, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 081 425 4422 Open daily: 11am-1am www.facebook.com/indiquebangkok

INTERNATIONAL Char

The amount of fantastic French and Mediterranean dishes (with a few Thai touches) that this busy rooftop restaurant can churn out in an evening means one visit most likely won’t be nearly enough. 25-26F, Hotel Indigo, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Park Society

Excite both your taste buds and eyes with a cutting-edge, elegant dinner overlooking Lumpini Park and the amazing skyline of Bangkok. Perfect for a romantic evening or a friendly get-together. Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: Kitchen, 6pm-10:30pm, Bar, 5pm-2am www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com

Red Oven

Styled as a World Food Market, this 7th-floor all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. On weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet. bangkok101.com

7F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com

Scarlett

For many Bangkok residents this sky-high restaurant, with amazing city views, is one of those places that forever remains on the “favourite” list. Try their new salt aged beef main dishes, or choose from an array of superb daily specials. Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 37F, 188 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 1991 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.pullmanbangkokhotelg.com

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Shuffle

The setup feels sort of Lower East Side: a postindustrial brasserie serving New American dishes executed by a Thai chef named Nick. The dishes are mostly meatcentric, while the inventive desserts give the menu some added verve. 2F, Rain Hill, 777, Sukhumvit Soi 47 Tel: 02 261 6992 Open daily: 4:30pm-11pm www.facebook.com/shufflerestaurant

The Girl and The Pig

No place is more surprising, or more in keeping with the international theme. This is a perfect spot for everything from ample brunches, to romantic dates. 5F, Central Embassy Tel: 084 194 6629 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/thegirlandthepig

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Toro + Ko/Tapas Bar

This dining hotspot features Barcelonainspired hot and cold small plates— served tapas-style—best enjoyed with wine and cocktails. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7790 Open: Sun-Thu, 6pm-11pm, Fri-Sat, 6pm-12am bkk.toro-restaurant.com

Wine Connection Tapas Bar & Bistro

Enjoy a variety of tapas and other eclectic menu items, plus a great selection of wines. The elegant yet casual atmosphere makes it suitable for everyone—families, friends, or duos on dates. GF, Rain Hill, 777, Sukhumvit Soi 47 Tel: 02 261 7217 Open daily: 11am-1:30am www.wineconnection.co.th DECEM BER 2016 | 89

FOOD & DRINK | listings

ITALIAN Enoteca Italiana Bangkok

Rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, this place is traditional Italian to the bone. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable a la carte and degustation menus to explore. As authentic as it is delicious. 39, Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 258 4386 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.enotecabangkok.com

1F, Mille Malle, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Tel: 02 663 4988 Open daily: 3pm-11pm www.millemalle.com

La Casa Nostra

A fresh take on Italian dining, complete with a talented chef from Sardinia and a B500 flat fee markup on wines (regardless of the original price of the bottle). It’s an offer you can’t refuse. 22, Sathorn Soi 1 (Soi Goethe) Tel: 02 287 2402 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight www.facebook.com/lacasanostrabkk

JAPANESE Kisso Galleria Milano

Galleria Milano

An Italian restaurant in the hands of Italians, where the pride is tasted in every bite, serves as the inspiration for a restaurant aiming to conquer the city.

Combining a modern mastery of timehonoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, this is one of the top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. 8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 259, Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com

YTSB

The name is short for “Yellow Tail Sushi Bar”, which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. It isn’t all about yellowtail, either— there’s real variety on the menu. 4F, Vie Hotel 117/39-40 Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30 pm, 6pm-11pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

KOREAN Joha

A cozy little Korean restaurant tucked away in the cool semi-suburban

listings | FOOD & DRINK neighbourhood of Ari, offering a fresh take on authentic Korean cuisine together with a chic, contemporary interior. 59/2, Phahonyothin Soi 7 Tel: 097 247 9777 Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-9pm www.facebook.com/Johakoreanrestaurant

Kong Ju

When you’re voted Bangkok’s favourite Korean restaurant 13 years running you must be doing something right. The chefs here go to painstaking lengths to ensure an authentic dining experience, by preparing meals of unparalleled culinary brilliance. Highly recommended. 2F, Pathumwan Princess Hotel, 444, MBK Center, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 216 3700 Open daily: Lunch, 11:30am-2pm, Dinner, 5:30pm-10pm www.pprincess.com

SEAFOOD Laem Charoen Seafood

Offering a wide range of other seafood delicacies—all straight from the

sea—this seafood restaurant has been growing in stature while staying true to its original roots. Reliability and customer satisfaction has made it one of the best seafood restaurants in town. 4F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 610 9244 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.laemcharoenseafood.com

SPANISH/LATIN Osito

New York meets Madrid. A neighbourhood Dean & DeLuca during the day, with its own smoker, churro machine, and deli sandwiches like the Reuben, it morphs into a Spanish tapas bar-cum-restaurant at night. 888/23-24, Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 651 4399 Open: Mon-Fri, 10:30am-12am, Sat-Sun, 10am-12am www.ositobkk.com

STEAK & BURGER The Oyster Bar

The Oyster Bar

You know a restaurant takes seafood seriously when several pages of the menu are devoted entirely to oysters. 395, Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 Tel: 02 212 4809 Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-11pm, Sun, noon-10pm www.theoysterbarbangkok.com

Meat & Bones

Nothing represents the very soul of stateside cooking than a smokehouse BBQ, and here the slow-smoked ribs are as traditional as it gets. The name says it all. The Commons, Thong Lor 17 Tel: 081 933 7143 Open: Mon-Thu, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm, Fri-Sun, 11:30am-10:30pm facebook.com/meatandbonesbangkok

FOOD & DRINK | listings

THAI

might feel as though you’ve walked into the Mad Hatter’s Tea party. Meanwhile the menu varies from curries to neighbourhood nosh. 25, Sukhumvit Soi 34 Tel: 02 258 5308-9 Open daily: 11am-10pm www.talingpling.com

fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cake-and-chat, or a hot coffee. 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 259 4089 Open: Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com

CAFÉ Ruen Urai

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Taling Pling

Taling Pling has a handful of branches in town, all slightly different in theme, but at this particular standalone outlet, you

Dean & Deluca

This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients. GF, MahaNakhon Cube, Tel: 02 023 1616 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, The Waterfall Quartier, Tel: 0 2261 0464 1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd, Tel: 02 108 2200 www.deandeluca.com/thailand

Kiosk Café

Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boite is a

Not Just Another Cup

This cozy cafe, suitable for early birds, serves a variety of brunch menus, while the drink menu covers everything from coffee to cold-pressed juices and infused water. 75/1, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 635 3464 Open daily: 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup

Colourful cocktails at the Eugenia Hotel Bangkok

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE colonial cocktails

Now that HEMINGWAYS has finally closed its doors (see story on pg. 36), fans of colonial era drinking establishments are actively looking for a replacement tippling spot. Which is great news for the newly refurbished EUGENIA HOTEL BANGKOK (267, Sukhumvit Soi 31), a late 19th century colonial-style house that embodies old world-style architectural beauty in the lobby, the rooms and, most importantly, the bar. It was closed for renovations for three years now but has reopened with a bang. Stop by any day of the week for their ‘Buy 1 Get 1 Free’ happy hour promotion—good for drinks, cocktails, and draft beers, from 6pm-9pm. www.theeugeniabangkok.com

show me, the way to, the next whiskey bar… There’s a new whiskey bar in town, but don’t go imagining a faux gentleman’s club with overbearing leather couches and stale cigar smoke lingering in the air. MALT & SALT, which has taken over the spot on Ekkamai Soi 10 formerly held by the BURGER FACTORY (same owners), offers a laid back, casual atmosphere, as well as a diverse selection of brown spirits, including Scottish single malts (mainly Speyside varieties), Japanese whiskies, and even a rare—and very expensive— bottle of King George from Johnnie Walker. Add to that live music most nights, and a great menu—including pastas, steaks, and the burgers that started it all— and you’ve got the perfect “blend”. www.facebook.com/themaltandsalt

craft beer über alles Although we haven’t yet figured out the reason why it’s named DOG STEP BANGKOK, we can tell you that this cool beer and bratwurst hot spot in the On Nut area is quickly gaining a loyal following. Located at THE BEACON PLACE (Sukhumvit Soi 50), this indoor/outdoor bar and restaurant is open Monday to Saturday, from 5pm till midnight. Craft beer fans will love the import selections— Brewdog, De Molen, St. Bernadus, La Trappe, Rogue, and more—while fans of German grub who can’t afford a night out at Sühring can indulge in homemade German sausage, sauerkraut, and ‘Sriracha’ pork collar. Wunderbar! www.facebook.com/dogstepbangkok

christmas wish list WISHBEER, a specialty beer delivery service and bar (Sukhumvit Soi 67), with a selection of over 500 kinds of beers and ciders, has recently added a craft BOTTLE SHOP to its successful suds concept. Adjacent to the bar, beer lovers can now pick their favourite bottles and either enjoy them immediately at the bar, or take them home. In addition, if choosing the latter, prices will also be around 20 percent cheaper than at the bar (same price as online). www.wishbeer.com

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NIGHTLIFE | review

Bronx Liquid Parlour “

A higher class of cocktail culture comes to Thong Lor

t was like this,” explains Hideyuki Saito, or ‘Hide’ as he’s usually called. He eyes up the dark wood panelling hung with a vintage vermouth poster, the brick accents that frame the bar shelf, and some of the rare bottles of booze he’s either carried in from abroad or been given by friends. “Before [I took over the space], it was a Thai restaurant. I really didn’t change much,” he adds with a light laugh. Structural renovations aside, it’s clear that Hide, formerly of Vogue Lounge, has lent no small amount of his personal touch to Bronx Liquid Parlour. The bar is the first he’s ever owned, and it’s telling that the award-winning, 29-year-old bartender has brought it to life pretty much all by himself—designing the interiors, handpicking the Bebop and swing on the stereo, even cooking up the recipes for the curry rice, wafu (Japanesestyle) pasta, and izakaya bites on the recently revealed food menu. “Lately I’ve been discovering—and it’s unusual—but I’ve been discovering

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oils,” he admits, describing a Negroni he aged in olive oil bottles when he worked in London, and then listing the avocado, walnut, coconut, and almond oils he’s experimented with in recent weeks. While currently the cocktails on the menu don’t feature any exotic oils, they are nevertheless lifted to another echelon by Hide’s ingenuity. The Sei (B380), a word meaning “quiet” in Japanese, is a sweet and aromatic mix of seemingly incompatible ingredients: Bacardi Ocho, umeshu, cacao, port wine, molasses, and matcha, served in a ceramic tea mug and offered up with a rum-infused yokan (a jelly made from sweet adzuki beans). It tastes similar to the triangular nama yatsuhashi sweets Kyoto is famous for, and it’s every bit as warming and deep. The Scotsman’s Egg (B360), meanwhile, plays like a riff on the whisky sour. Of course, the ingredients make it sound nothing like a whisky sour—Calvados Père Magloire VS, quail egg, port, ginger syrup, and spiced chocolate bitters, the latter playing perfectly with the sweet pear

brandy—but it’s all about precision and alchemy, and Hide clearly comprehends the science of cocktails better than most. For further proof, take his Oldies’ Botanics (B360). It turns the classic Old Fashioned on its head, elementally speaking, with smashed pink peppercorns, lemon and orange peel, and lavender, paired with Evan Williams Bourbon. Like the Old Fashioned, the drink hits hard and then mellows out, but Hide’s mix reveals more complex spices on the finish. To give Bronx its distinctive style, Hide has combined elements from the Tokyo, New York, and London bar worlds—the high-pressure milieus in which he cut his teeth. But make no mistake: this is his cocktail bar, fitting neatly into Bangkok’s budding scene. by Craig Sauers

Bronx Liquid Parlour 8, Thonglor Soi 25 Tel: 02 036 6071 Open: Tue-Sun, 7pm-2am www.bronxbkk.com

bangkok101.com

NIGHTLIFE | connoisseur corner

Great Wines of Italy Event Exclusive interview with wine expert James Suckling

his year’s Great Wines of Italy event, which is being held December 9th at the Grand Hyatt Erawan, brings to Bangkok some of the best winemakers from Italy, pouring some of their best wines. Each year more and more people attend this prestigious event. Approximately 600 oenophiles were in attendance last year, and this year organizers are expecting around 800 guests. It’s clearly the largest and best wine event in Thailand. And the man who helps draw such huge crowds is James Suckling, one of the world’s most renowned wine critics. All wineries and wines showcased this year have been hand-selected by Mr. Suckling for their quality and character—having reached top scores of 90 points and above. Why did you choose Bangkok as the city to host this prestigious event? I think Bangkok is one of the most exciting cities in the world and it has a thriving food and wine culture. Italian food is the favourite Western cuisine of Thailand, so it made sense to have such a great Italian wine event. Apparently there are 400 or so Italian restaurants in Bangkok. How is it that Italy became your preferred wine producing nation? I went to Italy in 1983 as a young wine critic and I feel in love with the country. Italy makes evocative wines that take you to the beautiful hills of Tuscany, or the mountains of Alto Adige, each time you drink them. They are more than a beautiful liquid in the bottle. They are transporters of history, beauty and quality. You feel Italy with each sip of a great Italian wine. What can wine lovers look forward to at the Bangkok event? And will you be in attendance? I am the first one in the door! So, indeed, I will be there. Guests, meanwhile, can look forward to great

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bottles of wine and great conversation with friends and wine lovers, not to mention winemakers. Also, my Australian recording artist friend Surahn Sidu, formally of Empire of the Sun, will be at the event DJ’ing some specially curated music for the tasting. Have you noticed the wine consumer market in Thailand becoming more sophisticated? I see more and more consumers interested in wine in Thailand, especially Bangkok. Thai’s love food and are clearly fascinated with it and they understand that wine is part of the whole experience of enjoying meals and life in general. This is particularly true with the upwardly mobile and educated crowd in their 30s and 40s. What are your true thoughts on the pairing of wine with spicy Thai cuisine? I love Thai food with wine. And I am not saying something boring like gewurztraminer. Red wine is the best. Find red wines that are fresh and balanced and remind you of white wines in freshness and texture. I recently drank a bottle of 2013 Whitmann Spatburgunder Rheinhessen with a spicy curry— right here in Bangkok—and it was awesome. Thai spicy food really gets your taste buds going.

Tell us about your association with the recently opened Nai Harn resort in Phuket. I understand you created their wine list? I love the Nai Harn. It’s such a great place to hangout in Phuket, and a close friend is the manager. We were talking and I said, “Let me do the wine list with my team”. So I put together a list of 80 or so wines that are really fun and flavourful, and they are right for different occasions—from hanging at the beach or pool to dining at the hotel restaurant. All the wines, of course, have 90 points or more ratings. What does it take for a wine to score 90 or above on the James Suckling rating scale? The wine has to be typical, wellmade, clean and balanced. The most important thing is that it has to be very drinkable. It has to be a wine that makes me want to drink it. Sounds simple, but it’s not always that easy to find. Read the full interview online at: www.Bangkok101.com

Great Wines of Italy Bangkok December 9th, 4pm-8pm Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Rajdamri Rd. Tickets are B1,299 each www.jamessuckling.com/event/great-winesitaly-bangkok-2016

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NIGHTLIFE | listings

BARS About Eatery

The bottom line is this: if you are a wine lover, you’ll love this place. It’s a warm and welcoming bar and restaurant that specializes in Mediterranean fare and artisan wines made using natural, biodynamic, and organic methods. GF, Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit 21, Soi 3 Tel: 081 920 0740 Open: Mon-Fri, 11:30am-2pm, Mon-Sat, 5pm-1am www.abouteatery.com

Face Bar

This visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim Thompson’s former mansion. It’s a dimly-lit joint that Summons patrons with cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails that aim to please. 29, Sukhumvit Soi 38 Tel: 02 713 6048, Open daily: 11:30am-1am www.facebars.com

Inblu Bar

Located on the hotel’s lobby level, this stylish drink spot offers an extensive selection of beers, whiskies, cocktails, and wines, plus tasty nibbles and great live music seven days a week. Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.pullmanbankokgrandesukhumvit.com

Oskar Bistro

Evil Man Blues

This retro cocktail bar promises only top-shelf spirits, housemade mixers, and fresh garnishes. Meanwhile, live music by renowned jazz musicians creates a close-knit vibe. GF, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

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125, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 081 822 3392 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.facebook.com/rabbitholebkk

This low-ceilinged club is perhaps more brasserie than bistro, but it's always popular with people coming for pre-club drinks and mingling. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 255 3377 Open daily: 4pm-2am (kitchen till 11:30pm) www.oskar-bistro.com

Rabbit Hole

A proper cocktail bar, run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What's more, the personable bartenders really know their spirits.

Rarb

Ensconced in a hipster-chic, glass-encased nook, this Old Town craft cocktails mecca features a rotating menu of daily drink specials and a mad scientist barman bent on experimentation, and home brewing his own spirits. 47/1 Phra Arthit Rd. Tel: 081 406 3773 Open: Tue-Sun, 5pm-midnight instagram.com/rarbbyescapade

Touché Hombre

This hugely popular Mexican bar and restaurant offers curious customers a chance to sample the finest mezcals and top-end tequilas, as well as superb Mexican-inspired dishes. 2F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7760 Open daily: 6pm-1am (Fri-Sat till 2am) www.touchehombre.com

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listings | NIGHTLIFE

Vogue Lounge

This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and formerly chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks. MahaNakhon Cube Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 001 0697 Open daily: 10am-late www.voguelounge.com

ROOFTOP / SKY BARS

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars, perched dramatically above the heart of the city, offers light bites and drinks such as the signature Imperial Mojito and Martini-infused cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld, 999/99, Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 4pm-1am (Happy hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

ThreeSixty Lounge

Go sky high in style above the Chao Phraya River at Millennium Hilton Bangkok’s grand rooftop venue. With 360° panorama vistas of the city, this lounge spot truly stands out from other sky bars in the city. 31-32F, Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.bangkok.hilton.com

Zest Bar and Terrace

Attitude

This sky-high drinking and dining spot boasts an inventive cocktail menu, delicious tapas-sized nibbles, and Instagram-worthy desserts, but the view overlooking the river is what really commands the attention here. 26F, Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 431 9100 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am minorhotels.com/en/avani/riverside-bangkok

Char

Located on the 26th floor of the Hotel Indigo, visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok bangkok101.com

Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails, and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-1am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com

CLUBS Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best sound systems. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com

Levels

One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers who can’t get enough. 6F, 35, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 082 308 3246 Open daily: 9pm-2am www.facebook.com/levelsclub DECEM BER 2016 | 101

NIGHTLIFE | listings

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, a two-room affair, one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade, 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

Titanium Club & Ice Bar

With congenial hostesses clad in ao dai, a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly, and over 90 varieties of vodka, it’s definitely a fun night out. Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 258 3758 Open: 6pm-1:30am www.titanium-club.com

37, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 0800 Open daily: 9am-late www.theaustralianbkk.com

PUBS Mulligan’s Irish Bar

Sing Sing Theater

Not entirely a club, nor exactly a bar in the truest sense, Sing Sing Theater transcends the limitations of our nightlife vocabulary. Sukhumvit 45 Tel: 097 285 6888 Open: Tue-Sun, 8pm-2am www.facebook.com/singsingtheater

A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com

The Australian

A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage.

The Drunken Leprechaun

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4, Sukhumvit 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE

The Sportsman

Whether you want to shoot some pool, throw darts, or just sit back and watch your favourite team on TV, it’s all here at one of the best sports bars in Bangkok. GF, Trendy Condo, Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 168 7241 Open daily: 8am-2am www.sportsbarbangkok.com

night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com

LIVE MUSIC

Bamboo Bar

A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each

A great place to hang out and meet up with friends while enjoying great live music. Come play some pool and check out Bangkok’s best rock’n’roll and blues cover bands. 25/9, Sukumvit Soi 26 Tel: 092 446 4234 Open: 10:30am-2am www.facebook.com/QueenBeeBangkok

Saxophone

Adhere the 13th Blues Bar One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals. 13 Samsen Rd. (opposite Soi 2) Open daily: 6pm-midnight Tel: 089 769 4613 www.facebook.com/adhere13thbluesbar

Queen Bee

Brown Sugar

Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com

A must-visit live music joint, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every single night of the week. 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 246 5472 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.saxophonepub.com

SoulBar

Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 945 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok

LIFESTYLE |

High seas adventure at the Kata Rocks Super Yacht Rendezvous 104 | DECEM BER 2016

bangkok101.com

| LIFESTYLE

LIFE+STYLE big fun on big boats If your ideal lifestyle includes sun, sailing, and sipping champagne, then you might want to head to Phuket where the inaugural KATA ROCKS SUPER YACHT RENDEZVOUS will be taking place from the 10th to the 12th of December (immediately following the King’s Cup Regatta). Over the course of three days there will be a series of exclusive VIP dinners, parties, and other events of interest to fans of yachting and luxury lifestyle. The event, hosted by the KATA ROCKS luxury resort, is open to both sailing and motor yachts measuring over 24 meters in length. Get set for high adventure on the high seas. www.katarockssuperyachtrendezvous.com

fang-tastic fun Although it’s located a bit outside the downtown core, the newly opened SIAM SERPENTARIUM—an edutainment space dedicated entirely to snakes—makes for a great family outing… provided no one in the family has an acute fear of slithering serpents! Located in the Lad Krabang area (past the Suvarnabhumi airport) this expansive museum is divided into three main sections: a kid-friendly interactive exhibition about snakes and their life cycle; a display of over 50 species of live snakes housed in individual glass cages; and the Naka Theatre, where live performances featuring trained snake handlers provide a thrilling finale. The regular admission price is B350 for Thai nationals and foreigners with a work permit, and B550 for tourists. www.siamserpentarium.com

affordable attractions Thailand’s Department of Fine Arts, Ministry of Culture, has announced that from now until January 31st, 2017, both Thai and foreign tourists will be granted FREE ADMISSION to selected NATIONAL MUSEUMS and HISTORICAL PARKS throughout the kingdom. The offer extends to the country’s ten parks that are categorized as historical spots, such as the old capitals of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya (among others). Within Bangkok, people are invited to enjoy free entry to such landmarks as the Royal Elephant Museum, the National Museum, Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, Ramkhamhaeng National Museum, and the Museum of Royal Barges. www.tatnews.org

beam me up The lights are bright on the basement floor of the NOVOTEL BANGKOK at Siam Square, and that’s because SIAM LASER GAMES, a 1,300 sq.m laser tag arena, recently opened its doors. Up to 50 players can shoot their way to victory in this highly addictive, interactive experience—perfect for a fun time with friends, team building, birthday celebrations, and more. It’s adrenaline-pumping fun, with an impressive surroundsound system to match, offering two different courses: Lava-Castle and Ocean-Forest. Prices start from B350 per person per game (B300 for students). www.facebook.com/siamlasergames bangkok101.com

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LIFESTYLE | spa review

Spa Cenvaree My treatment begins with a soothing foot cleanse, complete with a neem tea-infused rinse and a gentle salt scrub, before taking up a horizontal position on the massage bed for the 7 Miracle Grains Exotic Body Scrub. Comprised of—you guessed it—seven ingredients, including soy bean, red rice, millet, and black sesame, the skin stimulating scrub is applied by gentle hands, taking special care around areas prone to dryness. The full body treatment takes approximately 30 minutes, and I can already feel it cleansing my skin and tightening my pores. With the Botanical Body Mask and Wrap next on the agenda, I’m wrapped up from head to toe, layered with blankets and tucked in tightly like a toddler at bedtime. As my body is left to soak in the scrub, my head is treated to a soothing mini facial and an oriental scalp massage. I’m sent to the shower to rinse away the scrub and I’m immediately struck by the view beyond the curtain. I’d forgotten just how many storeys I’d climbed, but the sky-high shower is a stunning reminder and certainly the loftiest wash I’ve ever had! The ritual is finished with a full body Magnolia Oil Massage. With ast month, Spa Cenvaree, was more than satisfied with the filling perfect pressure, my body’s aches and knots are effortlessly swept away as launched a brand new treatment alone. the beautiful magnolia aroma fills the for Bangkok’s pamper-addicts, Set in a luxurious space room. Known for its calming properties due to run until the end of December. overlooking the city, the expansive I was lucky enough to be the first to try spa welcomed me with clean, modern and floral odour, the white flower also provides an easily absorbed oil and their Spa Secrets Journey—a full body décor, and friendly staff. With a effective moisturizer. ritual designed to “delight the senses soothing beverage and preference From beginning to end, the and treat the body.” questionnaire completed, my Lasting two hours, at starting costs masseuse lead me from the lobby into Spa Secrets Journey is a winning combination, made all the more sweet of B2,950 per person, the treatment a wide corridor. I’m confused, at first, takes place at the twenty-sixth floor as she seemingly walks towards a wall by a hot neck compress, and ginger tea and fresh fruit to finish—not to facility located inside the Centara with nothing but a large sculpture mention the complimentary Magnolia Grand Hotel at CentralWorld. This in the middle. Where are we going? Shower Cream and Body Moisturizer most convenient location makes the Though perhaps unintentional, the wellness hub a great option for a day treatment rooms can actually be found gift set. by Annaliese Watkins of girly indulgence; a spot of shopping behind a huge floor-to-ceiling ‘hidden’ at Zen, followed by a treatment or door (if Lara Croft was into spas, she’d two at Cenvaree, rounded off with a love this one). Spa Cenvaree cocktail on a rooftop bar at Groove— Just beyond, a curved corridor 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. and all without leaving the complex. reveals rows of single and double Tel: 02 100 1234 Of course I skipped the bread to that treatment spaces, each minimal in Open daily: 9am-11pm particular “pamper sandwich”, as I design but nonetheless luxurious. www.spacenvaree.com

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bangkok101.com

spa review | LIFESTYLE

Prim Nurture Retreats

rom the moment we meet, it’s clear how passionate Min Nunthaphivat is about her new wellness venture. With a background in banking, the launch of Prim Nurture Retreats, located within the upscale Metropole Hotel (see our review on page 22) is quite the departure from her corporate past. But whilst this financial acumen is sure to come in handy in her role as managing director of the spa, Min is more than just the numbers girl. Situated at the top end of Thong Lor, at New Petchaburi Road, both the luxury wellness retreat and the hotel it sits in have only recently opened their doors. Doors that lead into a space a world away from the traffic-logged street outside and into a space that goes above and beyond the average spa. At Prim, you’ll find that every corner has been thoughtfully designed and presented by Min and her interior designer. From the pearlescent cup and saucer which holds my soothing herbal tea, to the magnificent spiral staircase leading to the foot massage mezzanine, there’s a certain style here that’s often missing in hotel spas. This attention to detail continues in the hand-chosen product line. Using bangkok101.com

100 percent certified organic products, each oil, scrub, and lotion has been selected for its natural, nourishing quality, and applied by hands that have been professionally trained. The experience—the 190-minute Absolute Prim’s Treatment (B4,900)— begins with me selecting my preferred oil and scrub. As Min tells me, this choice reveals a lot about a person’s current mood and my being drawn to the lemongrass and lime aromas indicates a certain lethargy. I’m then primed with a Soothe and Smooth Body Scrub (B1,200). From my shoulders to my toes, it’s a rigorous treatment, effectively exfoliating my parched skin. The process takes around 30 minutes, and when it’s over, after washing the scrub away with a quick shower, I discover that my skin feels noticeably smoother and firmer. A full body aromatic massage follows and the skilled masseuse tirelessly works away at the desk-work induced knots in my upper back. Though the pressure is firm, I’m no less relaxed, safe in the knowledge that it’s doing my aching muscles the world of good. This leaves my skin ready for the Himalayan thermal compress. In a treatment that’s new to me, the massage utilizes heated clay pots filled

with Himalayan salts to promote blood circulation and relax muscle tension. As the pot gently rolls across my back, the heat is comforting while the sound of the crystals rotating inside is strangely relaxing. The final component to my long, luxurious afternoon is an anti-ageing facial. Combining the hydrating and youth-boosting effects of jojoba, apricot, and Sericin silk protein, the process is both cooling and rejuvenating. The anti-ageing qualities are further boosted by the use of Guasa Acupressure, a process which uses jade crystals to apply targeted pressure around the eyes, nose and mouth. Like most anti-ageing treatments, you are unlikely to leave looking ten years younger, but regular care and attention using natural tools such as these can only have a positive effect. Plus, there’s nothing wrong with a little “me time” now and then, and where better to do that than Prim? by Annaliese Watkins

Prim Nurture Retreats

GF, Metropole The Crest Collection 2802 New Petchaburi Rd. Tel: 02 716 5800 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/primthonglorspa DECEM BER 2016 | 107

LIFESTYLE | unique boutiques

Holiday Shopping

Christmas is coming, so time to start thinking about what to give and where to shop. Here now are four riverside retailers offering a variety of great gift items. ASIATIQUE: A favourite shopping and dining destination along the river is Asiatique The Riverfront (2194 Charoen Krung Rd). Divided into four districts, this lifestyle mall offers shoppers a seemingly endless selection, with both a colourful night bazaar and over 1,000 small boutiques, selling everything from souvenirs to handicrafts, jewellery, fashion, and gadgets. Make an evening out of it, and stop by for dinner and drinks as well. You can also enjoy one of the many nightly performances, including the Calypso Cabaret (a celebrated ladyboy show), a traditional folk art performance at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre, or an exciting martial arts stage show at Muay Thai Live. Asiatique is open every night of the week from 5pm to midnight. www.asiatiquethailand.com _______________________________________________ O.P. PLACE: Whether you can afford it or not, strolling through Oriental Plaza (O.P.) Place (30/1, Charoenkrung Soi 38) is an experience by itself. Located in a neo-classical building that dates back to the early 20th century, this shopping mall is home to over 50 boutique stores, with a focus on antiques and interior decorations, as well as different art shops, tailors, jewellers, and leather goods and souvenir shops. Head to The Ashwood Gallery on the top floor and admire even more storied antiques, sculptures and art pieces on display. O.P. Place is open daily from 10:30am to 6:30pm. www.opthai.com 108 | DECEM BER 2016

RIVER CITY BANGKOK: A little north of the Saphan Taksin bridge is where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find River City (23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Yota Rd), a 4-storey mall specialising in antiques and collectibles. Find everything from ceramics and pottery, to old maps and prints, as well as sculptures and wood carvings. They even host monthly auctions for true collectors. In addition, shoppers can also peruse fashion and jewellery boutiques, offering Thai silk, leather accessories, and gems. River City is also a popular riverside dining destination, thanks to a handful of beautiful eateries with outside terraces, as well as a rooftop restaurant. www.rivercitybangkok.com _______________________________________________ THA MAHARAJ: While the Tha Maharaj community mall (1/11 Trok Mahathat, Maharaj Rd) might not have as large a selection of shops as the other shopping complexes, the stores here are in many ways more unique than what you find elsewhere. Check out Editions, a small independent bookstore selling a variety of books on art, design, history and local culture, as well as artisanal souvenirs, postcards, and cute gifts. Another shop worth paying a visit to is Tathata, a lifestyle brand with a focus on leather. Their products range from quirky toiletry cases, to patterned tote bags and minimalistic watches. In addition, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a regular weekend market to browse through, and a large selection of riverview restaurants, including Peppina and Savoy. www.thamaharaj.com bangkok101.com

CUISINE ART

Nuea Jinn Tod Nuea Jinn Tod is fried sun-dried beef strip loin marinated with coriander seeds and sesame seeds. Served with fresh herbs and Sriracha sauce, it is one of Ruen Urai’s “Northern Exposure” menu. These special offerings are inspired by northern Thai cuisine. Experience ﬁne Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Open from noon to 11 p.m.

Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

id you know that His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand was a skilled sailor? In fact, he once sailed a dinghy single-handed across the dangerous waters of the Gulf of Thailand, and in 1967 he won a gold medal in dinghy sailing for Thailand at the 4th Southeast Asia Peninsula Games. The King’s interest in sailing extended to making his own boats from scratch in his workshop, and he tested the finished vessels on the lake at Chitralada Palace. In 1964 he began work on his first boat, the enterprise class ‘Rajptain’, and in

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1965, during a visit by the British royals to Thailand, he raced against the Duke of Edinburgh—travelling from Pattaya to Koh Larn in his homemade craft. King Bhumibol built his first international OK-class boat, the ‘Navaruek’, in 1965 but by 196667 he had turned his attention to international moth-class boats, designing and constructing nimble dinghies he named ‘Mod’, ‘Super Mod’, and ‘Micro Mod’. He even registered his design for the ‘Mod’ with the patent office in Britain. The King’s continued interest in the sport increased the popularity of sailing nationwide, and the first Phuket

King’s Cup Regatta was organized in 1987. The regatta began with a mixture of keelboats, catamarans, lasers and even windsurfers, but has since grown into a big boat event, attracting keelboats and ocean-going catamaran teams from around the world. This year marks the 30th anniversary of this annual event, and will include a remembrance ceremony in honour of His Majesty (see pg. 56).

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