Bangkok101 Magazine December 2017

Page 1

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Publisher’s Letter

hristmas and New Year’s Eve are thoroughly Western concepts here in Thailand, as Buddhists have both their own non-Christian spiritual beliefs and a completely different concept of when the new year begins. However, the bright lights, colourful decorations, and sense of fun associated with both these festive occasions has proven irresistible to Thais and so the two holidays are now widely embraced (even if only New Year’s Day is an official holiday). There are also two Thai holidays, Father’s Day and Constitution Day, all of which makes December a busy time here in Bangkok. And as the end of the month draws near, expect lots of restaurants and bars to start promoting their festive specials (see pg. 84). Another thing you can expect to see this month is lots of shopping activity. Bangkok is a city in overdrive when it comes to consumer culture and shopping is a way of life here, especially as Christmas draws near. And if you do happen to be a shopaholic, this city is all your dreams—or nightmares—come true. From mega malls to market stalls, this manic metropolis has it all covered, as you’ll see in our cover feature (staring on pg. 16). Whether it’s from the heat, or the abundance of choice, this is truly a city where you can “shop till you drop”. But the winter months in Thailand are also a great time to get out of the city, and our special travel feature this month showcases the corridor of ASEAN connectivity that exists between Chiang Mai, Mandalay, and Luang Prabang (starting on pg. 50). And, to coincide with this renewed interest in the north, Thailand’s Department of Tourism has created a series of exciting travel routes that explore the landmarks associated with Thailand’s famed Royal Projects in Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, and beyond (see pg. 64). All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101. Enjoy. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence info@talisman.asia. Publisher

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

DECEM BER 2017 | 5

CONTENTS 18

CITY PULSE 10

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

12

Special Report Renowned wine critic James Suckling presents The Great Wines of Italy 2017

16

Best of BKK From mega malls to market stalls, Bangkok is a shop-aholic’s dream destination, with something to “suit” all tastes and budgets

28

Making Merit Shop around for second-hand clothes and reduce the fashion footprint that ends up in landfills

46

50

LIVING IN STYLE 34

Living In Style News and updates for happy and healthy living

38

Property Profile Siam Royal View, Koh Chang

SNAPSHOTS 38

Tom’s Two Satangs On Thailand

40

Bizarre Thailand Jim Algie’s new series spotlights foreigners in Thailand, starting with Australian-born language instructor and TV personality Andrew Biggs

42

Joe’s Bangkok The newly opened riverside Lhong 1919 venue showcases Thai-Chinese heritage

44

Very Thai How soi life became retro heritage – Part 1

46 Heritage Wat Bowonniwet and Wat Rajabophit

On the cover

Bangkok is a dream come true for shopa-holics, with mountains of merchandise to suit every taste and budget. From mega malls to market stalls, you’ll find it all in our special cover feature, starting on page 16.

TRAVEL 48

ASEAN Connectivity In this special 18-page travel destination feature we look at ASEAN Connectivity, and how Chiang Mai is the perfect starting point to explore both Myanmar and Northern Laos

50

Focus on ASEAN Connectivity Chiang Mai; Luang Prabang; Mandalay

60

Over The Border Yangon’s dining scene puts Myanmar on the foodie map

62

Focus on Royal Projects Cash crops like fruits, vegetables, and coffee have transformed Northern Thailand’s hilltribes

66

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand

ART & CULTURE 68

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

72

Museum Spotlight Fun and games at the BatCat Museum and Toys Thailand

Photo by GP Studio/shutterstock.com

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | DECEM BER 2017

bangkok101.com

CONTENTS 74

Cinema Scope The 8th annual Luang Prabang Film Festival puts the spotlight on Thailand’s films and filmmakers

75

Music Makers Thai singer-songwriter Alyn is the one to watch in 2018

76

Photo Feature Richard Barrow takes viewers on a visit to the Royal Cremation site of King Rama IX

76

FOOD & DRINK

91

84

Food & Drink Updates

86

Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing Christmas deals for diners

87

Hot Plates Meet the winner of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Southeast Asia Regional Final

88

Special Report The House on Sathorn welcomes Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, from the Michelin-starred Mugaritz restaurant in Spain, for two nights only

90

Restaurant Reviews Flow; Theo Mio; Punjab Grill; Basil; Red Sky; Freebird

100

Breaking Bread with Andrew Dickie from The Penthouse Bar & Grill

102

Eat Like Nym Classic Padthai at Ar-Simp restaurant

104

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE 110

Nightlife Updates

112

Bar Reviews Salon Du Bar Japonisant; Thaipioka

114

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

SIGNING OFF 118

Did You Know?... Dîner en Blanc, France’s famed all-white secret picnic dining event, is coming to Bangkok this month

ART DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTING

PUBLISHED BY

Narong Srisaiya

PHOTOGRAPHERS

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Richard Barrow

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120

Thanakrit Skulchartchai GENERAL MANAGER PUBLISHER

STRATEGISTS

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

Mason Florence

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

SALES MANAGER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Parinya Krit-Hat

Jim Algie, Robin Banks, Luc Citrinot, Philip CornwellSmith, James Austin Farrell, Zipporah Gene, Kelly Harvey, Micaela Marini Higgs, Reena Karim, Robin Westley Martin, Chris Michael, Rianka Mohan, Samantha Proyrungtong, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Craig Sauers, Allison Nicole Smith, Tom Vitayakul, Nadia Willan

Bruce Scott EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Falida Angkhuro Anansit Sangsawang

Orn-uma Promsrikaew

Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia

SALES EXECUTIVE

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

MANAGING EDITOR

114

Iyarinnara Boonrat Thipthida Sorrapim Songkwan Udomdech DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Chakkrit Rattanapan EVENT & SPECIAL PROJECTS

Wasin Banjerdtanakul

© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

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CITY PULSE | metro beat

DECEMBER’S HOTTEST TICKETS December 2

THAI HOLIDAYS December 5, 10

There are two official national holidays in Thailand this month, the first of which honours the birthday of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej. On December 5th—the day His Majesty was born back in 1927—Thai people celebrate Father’s Day, as the late monarch is regarded as “father” by the citizens of the nation. The other holiday is Constitution Day which commemorates Thailand’s adoption of a constitutional monarchy in 1932. This year it falls on Sunday the 10th, but it’s given to workers as a holiday on Monday the 11th, making for a nice long weekend.

FESTIVE SEASON December 25, 31

Although Christmas Day is not “officially” celebrated in the Buddhist nation of Thailand, the colourful Xmas spirit does tend to take over this country during December and you’ll find no shortage of festive decorations at downtown malls. Restaurants will also be offering lots of festive meal deals during this time (see pg. 86). The other big event is New Year’s Eve, and in Bangkok expect lots of parties in the city’s nightclubs, bars, and hotels, as we get ready to embrace the year 2018. 10 | DECEM BER 2017

British indie band Prep return to Bangkok for the 2nd time this year, performing at Voice Space (197 BBD Building, Viphavadi Rangsit Rd). Blending modern soul with delicate pop sensibilities, the combo consists of a house DJ, a hip-hop producer, a classical music composer, and an accomplished songwriter. Also on the bill are Telex Telex, Temp, and Pla Nin Tem Barn. Tickets are B1,200 (B1,500 at the door), and doors open at 7pm. www.ticketmelon.com

December 4

The amusingly named Japanese Breakfast is the solo indie rock project from Michelle Zauner, whose latest album is entitled Soft Sounds From Another Planet. The songs are about human resilience and the strength it takes to claw out of the darkest of spaces. Sound interesting? See for yourself at Rockademy Thailand (A-Square, 120/8, Sukhumvit Soi 26). Tickets are B1,100 and doors open at 7:30pm. www.ticketmelon.com

December 8

Brazilian heavy metal icons Sepultura—named after the Portuguese word for “grave”—are headlining the OD Rock music festival, which takes place at the Fortune Sky Arena (10F, Fortune Town, Ratchadapisek Rd). Several Thai metal bands are in the line-up as well, including Carnivola, Ebola, Dezember, Retrospect, Dose, and Hopeless. Get set for a day of grinding guitars and bombastic beats, starting at 4pm and going till late. Tickets are B1,500 in advance, and B1,900 at the door. www.ticketmelon.com

December 11

Canadian pop superstar Shawn Mendes brings his Illuminate World Tour to Bangkok for one night only at Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani). This young talent first began to attract a following in 2013, when he started posting covers of songs online. Three years later his 2016 sophomore album Illuminate debuted at the top of the US Billboard charts. Tickets for the show range in price from B2,000 to B5,000. www.thaiticketmajor.com bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

ITALIAN FESTIVAL IN THAILAND December 13

The Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (939 Rama 1 Rd) presents 6 Pinocchios. In this theatre piece Maurizio Mistretta melds The Adventures of Pinocchio, by Carlo Collodi, and Six Characters in Search of an Author, by Luigi Pirandello. Start time is 7pm and admission is free.

December 15

Acclaimed singer-songwriter Luca Seta (left), whose songs evoke moments of life like vivid snapshots, performs with the Gabriele Buonasorte Quintet in an evening of music entitled ‘In Viaggio con Kerouac’. The venue is the Chulalongkorn University Music Hall (254 Phaya Thai Rd), start time is 7pm, and admission is free. For more information about upcoming Italian Festival in Thailand 2017 events, visit the official Facebook page. www.facebook.com/italianfestivalthailand

OUT-OF-TOWN ENTERTAINMENT December 10

EDM fans looking for a wild weekend should head to Pattaya for the Maya Music Festival, where the celebrated DJ line-up includes Flume, Robin Schulz, R3hab, and Dubvision. The festival takes place this year at Horseshoe Point (Soi Pornprapanimit), and general admission tickets are B4,000. The gates open at noon, and you must be 18 or over to attend. www.mayamusicfestival.com

Robin Schulz

December 1, 2, 8, 9

The Bangkok Community Theatre brings a dose of “holiday spirit” to the Creative Industries, M Theatre (2884/2 New Petchburi Rd) with their presentation of A Christmas Carol, the yuletide classic by Charles Dickens. The talented cast of five here take on multiple roles as they recount the tale of Ebenezer Scrooge and his meetings with the ghosts of Christmas past, present, and future. Tickets are B800 each—available via the company’s website—and evening performances are at 7:30pm, while Saturday matinee performances (Dec. 2nd and 9th) begin at 2pm. www.bangkokcommunitytheatre.com

RUNNING EVENTS December 14-17

Now in its 4th edition, Wonderfruit is a four-day eco-friendly music, art, food, and wellness extravaganza that takes over The Fields at Siam Country Club (East Pattaya). International music acts appearing at this family-friendly—and dogfriendly—event include Canadian DJ Richie Hawtin, English rapper Roots Manuva, Jamaican reggae artist Chronixx, and English singersongwriter Izzy Bizu. Many local Izzy Bizu Thai acts will also be appearing, including Khun Narin’s Electric Phin Band. A full 4-day pass is priced at B6,000 (B6,300 at the door) for adults aged 22 and older, while a 4-day youth pass, for those aged 12 to 21, is B5,500 (B5,800 at the door). Weekend and single day passes are also available, and you can even opt for the discounted ‘Party Pass’, which provides 4-day access for eight adults for just B42,800. For more detailed ticket info about prices and accommodations, and a full list of this year’s performances, visit the festival website. www.wonderfruitfestival.com bangkok101.com

THEATRE SHOW

December 10

Join the Run 4 Rights 2017 event which takes place at Lumphini Park. The event is limited to 3,000 runners, entry fee is B400, and proceeds will be donated to Thailand’s Association of the Disabilities and the Ramathibodi Foundation. Choose either the 10.5km Mini-Marathon (starting 6am), or the 5km Fun Run (starting at 6:15am). www.jogandjoy.com

December 17

Runners are invited to join in on the Thailand International Half Marathon 2017, which start and finishes at the Rama VIII Bridge. Entry into the 21.1km Half-Marathon (starting at 4am) is B800, while entry into either the 10.5 Km Mini-Marathon, or the 5km Fun Run, is just B400 (with both races starting at 4:45am). www.jogandjoy.com DECEM BER 2017 | 11

CITY PULSE | special report

Great Wines of Italy

Internationally acclaimed wine critic James Suckling returns to Bangkok on December 8th to host the city’s premier wine tasting event

F

By Bruce Scott

or wine lovers the long wait is over, as the Great Wines of Italy 2017 tasting tour will be arriving in Bangkok on December 8th, taking over the Grand Ballroom at the Grand Hyatt Erawan hotel from 4pm till 8pm. This will be the 4th edition of this highly-anticipated annual event, and once again acclaimed wine critic James Suckling will be here in person as the official host. Bangkok is the last stop on the Asian segment of the tasting tour—which also visits Beijing and Hong Kong—and the event will showcase Italy’s most sought-after wines, including both prestigious established brands and premium boutique wineries. The wines showcased are all hand-picked by Mr. Suckling himself, after having achieved a wine rating score of at least 90 points (out of 100) on the influential website www. jamessuckling.com. At a special media pre-event tasting held in late October, Mr. Suckling was on hand to give some insight into what oenophiles can look forward to this year. “We have wines from 85 producers, and 70 are coming to the event in person,” he James Suckling revealed. “2015 was a great year in Tuscany so we have a lot of top wines from 2015, and there’ll be one 100 point pure Merlot from Tua Rita winery. We also have a lot of 2013 Barolos, which are great.” At the pre-event tasting the assembled media were treated to five fabulous reds, including a 2012 Pietradolce Etna Barbagalli (95 points) made from 100-year-old vines, and a dynamic bio-dynamic 2013 Duemani Cabernet Francc Costa Della Toscana Centrale (98 points), which showed a spectacular depth and rich intensity. The whites were also given their due during the preevent tasting, highlighted by a surprisingly superb “Tuscan white”—namely the 2013 Temute Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari Toscana La Pietra (92 points), a firm Chardonnay with notes of ripe lime and cooked apple, and just a hint of marshmallow. Another white of note was the 2016 Nals Margreid Pinot Blanco Alto Adige Sirmian (95 points), and interestingly this year’s event will also feature a screening

12 | DECEM BER 2017

of Mr. Suckling’s new documentary entitled Great Wines of Italy: Alto Adige’s Vineyards in the Sky, which was filmed this past summer by noted Hollywood director James Orr. The movie, which makes ample use of drone photography, focuses on the wineries and vineyards located in the stunning scenic region of Northeast Italy. “At my events it’s about more than just tasting wine,” Mr. Suckling added. “We even have Surahn Sidhu, ex-lead guitarist of the band Empire of the Sun, as the DJ. He curates all my music at my events around the globe, and the playlist goes onto Spotify so you can listen to it after the show. What we try to do is to create an experience— it’s more than just an academic tasting.” Last year, over 1,200 people attended the Great Wines of Italy event, and this year’s turnout should be just as impressive. “It’s really amazing how things have changed in four years,” remarked Mr. Suckling. “Wine producers are coming to Thailand now. Before wine producers would say Thailand was too small a market, but now they’ve seen the turnout and they understand it’s a growth market, and that people are drinking wine here. Thailand has become a real destination for wine makers.” So are there already plans afoot for more wine events in 2018? “Next year we might do Chile and Argentina, the Great Wines of the Andes,” the affable expert announced. “They represent great value.” Tickets for the Great Wines of Italy 2017 are B1,299 each. For more information visit the official website at: www.jamessuckling.com/events/great-wines-italybangkok-2017 NOTE: On December 9th, the day after the Bangkok event, a much less formal “chill out” tasting session will be held at The Nai Harn resort in Phuket. This stunningly beautiful hotel, which opened in 2016, actually has a wine list personally curated by Mr. Suckling, so it’s an obvious spot to wrap up the 2017 tasting tour. www.thenaiharn.com bangkok101.com

ALL NEW

STILL LEGENDARY After more than six months of extensive renovation and transformation, La Scala Italian restaurant at The Sukhothai Bangkok hotel officially opened its doors on Friday, the 17th of November, 2017. The regular menu, inspired by Chef David Tamburini, serves up traditional Italian recipes with unparalleled creative flair; a veritable culinary tour de force. The new La Scala promises to especially impress patrons new and old—surpassing the restaurant’s previous successes. The new design concept is “The Great Theater for Marvelous Moments”, the inspiration coming from the legendary La Scala Theater in Milano. Here the kitchen is a “stage”, which underscores the overall “theatre” concept, and the chef is the principal “performer”. However, the “lead role” goes to the guests, as they eagerly anticipate moments of culinary pleasure. The most characteristic design item is the oval ceiling at the center of the space. It gives a cheerful brightness to the dining room, while 5 black pillars connect the oval ceiling to the open kitchen space. In addition, a special private room is partitioned from the main dining area with a light sash, and the coloration of the interior is reminiscent of the balcony seats at Milan’s original La Scala Theater.

LA SCALA, THE SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK 13/3 Sathorn Rd., Bangkok, 10120 Thailand | Opening Hours: Daily noon-3pm, 6:30-11pm Dress requirements: No shorts, sportswear, slippers, sleeveless shirts Phone: 02-344-8888 | Email: lascala@sukhothai.com Nearest Train: MRT Lumphini | Reservation recommended | Parking available

www.sukhothai.com/Dining/La-Scala

ALL NEW STILL UNIQUE NOW OPEN

THE SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK South Sathorn Road, Bangkok +66 (0) 2344 8888 www.sukhothai.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Buy & Sell

Whether it’s from the heat or the abundance of choice, Bangkok is definitely a place where you can “shop till you drop” By Bruce Scott

W

hen it comes to shopping, Bangkok is a place where you can pretty much find anything and everything you could ever want (and lots of stuff you would probably never want). The sheer amount of markets, malls, shops, and stores is mind-boggling, running the gamut from dirt cheap to preposterously pricey. Much of the city’s consumer culture is centred around malls, which are enjoyed by the general populace as much for their selection as for their air-conditioning. Some of the biggest and most popular include Siam Paragon, EmQuartier, and CentralWorld, and in turn these have become undeniable city landmarks (see full story on pg. 18). Another city shopping landmark is the Ma Boon Khrong Centre—more popularly known as MBK—which is a sprawling downtown complex that is home to over 2,000 retailers, including shops, restaurants, cafes, and department stores. Another fun favourite, especially for fashion forward university students on a budget, is Union Mall. With eight floors and a total of 150,000 sq.m of space, it houses over 1,200 booths, shops, restaurants, and entertainment services. Outdoor shopping is also a big deal in Bangkok, and the most famous venue for this is definitely the Chatuchak Weekend Market. But because daytime shopping can prove to be a heated affair most months, nighttime shopping at outdoor venues like the Rod Fai Night Market on Ratchadapisek Road have proven extremely popular as well (see full story on pg. 24). Community malls are another big thing in Bangkok (and all over Thailand), and almost every major neighbourhood in the city has one. These medium-sized commerce zones double as socializing spots, where people congregate as much to shop as to simply hangout and eat and drink. One of the most popular is Asiatique the Riverfront, located down at the Chao Phraya River. It contains over 1,500 boutiques and 40 restaurants—all housed under a huge replica warehouse wharf—but it also boasts three unique performance theatres, and an outdoor amusement park area anchored by the iconic Mekhong ferris wheel. When it comes to niche shopping, specialty stores abound in this manic metropolis, especially those selling clothing and fashion accessories. One of the most popular is Siam Square, a dense warren of boutiques and market stalls selling various apparel. It’s where fashionistas get a real taste of alternative style and shopping, with internationally renowned high-end brands and independent traders selling side by side. Another popular spot for clothes hounds is the Platinum Fashion Mall on

16 | DECEM BER 2017

Ma Boon Khrong Centre (MBK) Petchaburi Road, which specializes in wholesale clothing and accessories. The four floors of shopping space are packed with some 1,300 shops, although it’s primarily women’s clothing. This same stretch of Petchaburi Road is also home to Pantip Plaza, Bangkok’s legendary low-cost tech mall where computer nerds, photography geeks, and fans of pirated software love to congregate (and the same can be said of the tech-centric Fortune Town mall, on Rama IX Road). At the opposite end of the spectrum, lovers of objets d’art are drawn in great numbers to River City Bangkok, a four-storey mall overlooking the Chao Phraya River that specializes in fine art, antiques, and collectibles, with monthly on-site auctions. Bangkok is also a great place when shopping for food, and both Or Tor Kor and Klong Toei fresh markets are world-famous for their eye-popping displays of every edible imaginable. In recent years farmer’s markets have also become popular, especially the K Village Farmers Market which takes place every second weekend of the month and showcases more than 120 booths selling food, organic products, spa products, housewares, plants, and beautiful arts and crafts. Finally, let’s not forget everyone’s love-to-hate retailer, 7-Eleven, which opened its first shop in Thailand back in 1989. Now with over 10,000 outlets across the Kingdom—sometimes located across the road from one another—this US-based chain of convenience stores has become an intrinsic part of the fabric of modern day Thai consumer society. bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

The Rise of the Mega Malls Bangkok’s premiere luxury shopping complexes have redefined this city’s retail experience By Bruce Scott

CentralWorld, Thailand’s largest mega mall CENTRALWORLD: Originally called the World Trade Center, the eight-story mall at the corner of Rama I and Ratchadamri roads first opened in 1990. Central Group acquired the property in 2002 and changed the name first to Central World Plaza, and then to CentralWorld, in 2005. On May 19th, 2010, the mall was one of the many properties set on fire when the Red Shirt anti-government protesters were forcibly removed after months of demonstrations which included complete blockage of the Rachaprasong shopping district. But even without this storied history, CentralWorld would still command plenty of attention. The mall occupies around 550,000 sq.m of retail space, making it the largest shopping complex in Thailand (and one of the largest in the world). It encompasses everything from brand name clothing boutiques to funky 18 | DECEM BER 2017

fashion retailers, high-tech gadgets, bookshops, designer furniture outlets, health and beauty suppliers, imported grocery shops, and much, much more. In short, if you need a shopping fix this is the place. The mall is anchored by two large department stores—Zen and Isetan—and the approximately 500 other retailers include: Marks & Spencer; Massimo; Kenneth Cole; Fred Perry; Kate Spade; Coach; Calvin Klein; The Body Shop; Zara; The North Face; and Adidas (to name but a few). Add to this beauty salons, dozens of gourmet eateries—including many in the stand-alone Groove@ CentralWorld section—and even an indoor ice skating rink, and it’s safe to say that this is not your average mall. CentralWorld’s overall design has placed a lot of emphasis on natural light, with daylight filtering through the many skylights and open wells. In addition, eyebangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE catching artwork by famous artists—such as Australian artist Jeremyville—are used as decoration features, while a magnificent mobile consisting of 3,500 suspended glass balls in an open well has become an Instagram hit. Meanwhile, the outdoor square that faces Ratchadamri Road is often used for large-scale events, such as Bangkok’s official New Year’s Eve countdown party. Another big draw here is the SF World Cinema, an upscale movie theatre complex located on the 7th floor with a total of 15 screens, including the new state-ofthe-art MX4D experience cinema, and SF Cinema First Class (with 180° adjustable reclining armchairs, blankets, and pillows). And for parents with kids, the Thailand Knowledge Park (TK Park) on the 8th floor provides specialized supervision in an ‘edutainment’ environment. So drop off the kids off with a clear conscience and give those credit cards a workout. www.centralworld.co.th SIAM PARAGON: With easy access from the Siam BTS station, Siam Paragon is both a civic landmark and a beacon of luxury shopping. Opened in 2005, it’s a joint venture by Siam Piwat, the company that owns the adjacent Siam Center and Siam Discovery shopping malls, and The Mall Group (who own several other retail properties in Thailand). Siam Paragon itself contains over 250 shops, with the main floor boasting retail outlets from such luxury designer brands as Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Jimmy Choo, Chanel, Burberry, YSL, Salvatore Ferragamo, Jim Thompson, Rolex, Bulgari, Mont Blanc, and Versace. Not to be outdone, the next level up is home to such iconic brands as Paul Smith, Armani, Hugo Boss, Gap, Swarovski, Greyhound, and H&M. But it’s perhaps the 3rd floor that really causes jaws to drop, with its indoor car showrooms displaying gleaming vehicles from Aston Martin, Lotus, BMW, Maserati, Ferrari, and Lamborghini. Needless to say, this mall caters to well-heeled Thais and international visitors with the urge to splurge. Of course, not everyone is here just to shop, as the mall is also home to many interesting entertainment

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Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World attractions. The popular Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World aquarium—Southeast Asia’s largest—is located on the basement level and covers approximately 10,000 sq.m, with hundreds of different marine life species on display (in exhibits that make use of about 5,000,000 litres of water). Meanwhile, further up on the 5th floor, Blu-O Rhythm & Bowl is a 38 lane bowling alley, with karaoke rooms and a restaurant. There’s also a 15 screen Paragon Cineplex which includes the Enigma cinema, a VIP treatment candle-lit lounge with full bar and sofa-bed seating, and the Bangkok Airways’ Blue Ribbon Screens, with comfy adjustable reclining armchairs, blankets, and pillows. Finally, Siam Paragon’s Food Hall and Gourmet Market are not-to-be-missed foodie experiences, while the plethora of delectable name brand dining options includes such talked about restaurants as Bombyx (by Jim Thompson), the Clinton Street Baking Company Bangkok, and the newest branch of La Crêperie. www.siamparagon.co.th

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

EmQuartier Shopping Complex EMQUARTIER: Opened in May of 2015, EmQuartier is part of The Mall Group’s multi-billion-baht ‘EM District’ project—a scheme that will transform the area around the Phrom Phong BTS station into one of the biggest retail hubs in Bangkok. Together with the already popular Emporium Shopping Mall, which opened in 1997, this enclave of high-end retail frenzy could easily become an all-day shop-a-thon extravaganza for those with plenty of room on their credit cards. With its futuristic design—covering 4,000 sq.m of floor space—plus dozens of restaurants, offices, event halls, and a cool atrium garden with waterfall, EmQuartier continues to draw huge crowds of awestruck Instagram-happy visitors. Shopping options here lean towards the more luxurious brand names, with designers like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, and Fendi all having presence on the ground

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floor and second floor levels. Higher up brands such as Zara, Uniqlo, H&M, Gap, and Super Dry offer plenty of retail therapy. The mall itself is split up into three different zones: The Glass Quartier, The Helix Quartier, and The Waterfall Quartier. The Helix, as it’s known, contains over 50 restaurants, all accessed by an impressive spiral multistorey walkway. Choose between Chinese at Man Fu Yuan, seafood at Crab & Claw, grilled meats at The Chop, or any of the multitude of other dining options. Another highlight is the Quartier Cine-Art which consists of four cinema options, including the full luxury Aeon experience, with bed-like seating and snacks from Dean & Deluca. By contrast, the Emporium (on the opposite side of Sukhumvit Road) is a tad less eye-popping, but no less luxurious. Within this nine-storey complex you’ll find established fashion favourites such as Diesel, Dior, DKNY, Alexander Wang, Miu Miu, and Victoria’s Secret, as well as upscale local designers such as Misty Minx, Jaspal, Lyn Around, and Jim Thompson. There’s also plenty of food choices, and in fact floors 6 through 9 are just restaurants. You can also catch a film here at the 5th floor SF Cinema, and splurge on the new Emprive Cineclub VIP screening room. www.emquartier.co.th www.emporium.co.th GAYSORN VILLAGE: On September 14th this year GAYSORN VILLAGE (formerly Gaysorn Plaza) held a very lavish Grand Opening party to celebrate the property’s new branding and new direction. Located at the corner of Ploenchit and Ratchadamri roads, and spanning over 180,000 sq.m, this new interconnected “village” bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE includes: Gaysorn Tower, an eco-friendly office tower; Amarin Plaza, a hub for great shopping and dining; and the Gaysorn Shopping Centre, home to the world’s finest fashion and accessory brands—Bally, Brooks Brothers, Max Mara, Tag Heuer, Davidoff, Tumi, and many more. Meanwhile, to the north, the Gaysorn Walk also offers

Gaysorn Village visitors to access the city’s famed Pratunam area, for even more shopping selection. There’s also plenty of amazing wining and dining outlets within this venerable shopping complex, including Paste, Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar, and the newly opened Bangkok branch of the London-based Burger & Lobster chain. And if you find yourself knackered from shopping, book a spa treatment at the award-winning on-site Thann Sanctuary. www.gaysornvillage.com

that the futuristic design and minimalist white interior was impressive, foot traffic in the 144,000 sq.m mall was a little slow at first. Even the more than 200 luxury brands, including Christian Louboutin, Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Jil Sander, Moschino, Mulberry, Tom Ford, Chopard, and Pomellato weren’t luring in as many shoppers as expected. However, time is a great healer and now the mall has become a true shopping destination locale. The EatThai upscale food court, which takes up much of the basement level, gradually became a much talked about foodie hot spot, and this past year the opening of the Siwilai City Club and the super-cool 6th floor Open House has breathed new life into the complex. Another consistent draw has been the über-luxurious Embassy Diplomat Screens at the 6th floor Cineplex. Of course, being joined at the hip to the newly opened Park Hyatt Bangkok hotel hasn’t hurt either, and together these top-tier properties have turned this intersection into one of the city’s go-to areas. In addition, all this renewed public interest in Central Embassy has certainly benefitted the many deserving dining spots in the mall, such as the Water Library restaurant, Ippudo Ramen, Somboon Seafood, Issaya La Pâtisserie, Chickalicious, and Audrey Café Glamour. www.centralembassy.com

HONOURABLE MENTIONS CENTRAL CHIDLOM: This grand old dame of the Bangkok shopping scene—it’s been around since 1973—may be, of late, overshadowed by some of its flashier neighbours, but with seven floors of luxury products and notable restaurants it still holds its own. Located at 1027 Phloen Chit Rd. THE ESPLANADE: Providing sheltered shopping when it’s too wet or too early to visit the adjacent Rod Fai Night Market Ratchada, this seven-storey mall covers all the bases—fashion, accessories, plenty of restaurant options, and a 12 screen Major Cineplex on the top floor. Located at 99 Ratchadaphisek Road (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre). SHOW DC: Yes, it’s a shopping mall, but Show DC—located near the RCA entertainment district— also offers a huge range of entertainment-based attractions, including a live music concert hall, a modern sports arena, and a 5,000 sq.m cultural facility called the Himmapan Avatar; a 45 minute 4D walkthrough show of holographic images and other extraordinary audio-visuals showing scenes from Buddhist mythology. Free shuttle bus services from the MRT Thailand Cultural Centre.

Central Embassy and the Park Hyatt Hotel CENTRAL EMBASSY: Back in May 2014, when Central Embassy—located at the junction of Wireless and Ploen Chit roads—first threw open its doors to the public, expectations were high. And while no one could argue bangkok101.com

MEGA BANG NA: It’s a little out of the way, but there’s a free shuttle bus service from BTS Udom Suk that brings you right here, and the bus also makes a stop at the nearby IKEA (which is, for some, the real reason to venture out this far).

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

21 Forever

An iconic Bangkok landmark, Terminal 21 is both kitschy and cool By Micaela Marini Higgs

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s an avid window-shopper, Terminal 21 (88, Sukhumvit Soi 19) is one of my favourite malls in Bangkok. When I first arrived in Thailand I was fascinated with the absurdity of the airport-themed mall where each floor is styled as a different international destination. Though the novelty has slightly worn off, it’s still a great place for people-watching as new visitors eagerly take advantage of the space’s many photo opportunities. My favourite feature remains the lavish bathrooms, which are decorated according to each floor’s theme—like in ‘San Francisco’ where a bathroom is styled after a bakery, with walls covered in bread recipes and information about the history of sourdough. If you’re looking for a big selection of international retailers, this isn’t the place, but if you’re happy to spend a few hours rooting out the work of small designers, digging into baskets of vintage clothes, and finding a curated selection of what’s currently trending at more hectic—and hot—outdoor markets, Terminal 21 is definitely worth a visit. After you take your obligatory selfies on the mall’s three-story tall escalator or in the Harijuku themed toilet, here are five shops I recommend checking out (identified according to their specific numeric shop locator).

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BANG!BANG!: Though the faces of Charlie Chaplin, Ziggy Stardust, and Twiggy are hardly new sights, Bang!Bang! (#2137) manages to put a new spin on portraits of pop culture icons through colourfully off-kilter illustrations. I was given a gift from the shop before I moved to Thailand, and it was the first place in the mall I ever visited, eager to browse their collection of t-shirts, postcards, scarves, and pins bearing famous faces. Their collection of eccentric knick-knacks, and the amount of Mr. Bean-themed merchandise available, makes it a fun place to find a strange gift or colourful addition to your own wardrobe. 2HANDCLOSET: If you’re hoping to snag preowned clothing that is still on trend, or to find Thai designer clothes at a discount, 2HandCloset (#1015) is packed with options. Cluttered with kitschy jewelry and knickknacks, the racks offer cheaper pieces from places like Topshop, right next to clothing from higher-end boutiques. You’re almost guaranteed to find products from Thai designer brand Stresis, and on my last trip I spotted multiple pieces that were less than 6 months old. There isn’t exactly a unifying theme to the shop’s aesthetic so the selection bangkok101.com

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depends on when you visit, but even when I leave empty handed it’s always worth the few minutes of browsing to see some of their amusingly over-the-top options. SAN-SAY-BAY: My favourite place for wardrobe basics is San-say-bay (#2132). Their t-shirts and tops come in simple, often boxy cuts, and unlike many of the mall’s other shops they actually let you try things on before you buy them. All the shirts come in solid colours and the same soft, well-weighted material, making for flatteringly loose designs. Though time in Bangkok has made me suspicious of cheaper shirts (most here cost B250) these pieces have stood up to well to heavy wear, making them a staple in my closet. VARA: On the 3rd floor (Istanbul) you’ll find lots of leather and bag shops, but when I’m looking for simple and elegant everyday purses I head straight to Vara (#3094). Made from genuine leather—sourced from Europe and America—in collaboration with local tanneries, these bags are super lightweight and come in a gorgeous range of unique colours. You could always visit their stall in Chatuchak Market, but I prefer mulling over my shopping decisions in an air conditioned space, and without five sweaty backpackers peering over my shoulder. MARY LOU: I always swing by the jewellery shop Mary Lou (#3033) to see what new options they’ve set out. Tastefully displayed across bookshelves and wooden furniture, the shop’s ceramic animal rings and earrings have proven to be easy gifts for my animal loving friends. If these pieces are a bit too twee for your tastes, they always throw in a few distinctive designs that play with tradition. I bangkok101.com

like their current collection’s take on the Claddagh ring—a traditional Irish ring where two hands hold a heart—that features ceramic hands with brightly painted fingernails clasping a plastic gem (B680). www.terminal21.co.th

TERMINAL TOURISM If you’re a fan of Terminal 21 Bangkok, then you can mix in shopping with sunning during your next trip to Pattaya. Set to open in 2018, T21 Pattaya (as it’s now known), is a six-storey mega mall that will offer everything from high-end boutique shopping to stunning hotel rooms. It’s located near the Dolphin Monument roundabout. And if you find yourself in the heart of Isaan, there’s a Terminal 21 Korat as well (which opened in late 2016).

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Chatuchak Market

Manic Markets

Outdoor shopping hot spots offering everything under the sun (or moon) By Robin Westley Martin

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rom the moment you arrive in Bangkok you just know that you are in for the shopping trip of a lifetime. Internationally recognized brands stare out at you from the elegant displays in the windows you walk past in the dozens of high-end shopping malls dotted all around this mega-city. But look past those glittering malls and pay a visit to one or two of Bangkok’s famous outdoor markets, and you’ll see another side of Thai life entirely. And two of the most wildly popular of these outdoor shopping hot spots are the infamous Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Rod Fai Ratchada Night Market. Granted, you’ll be joined by many other foreign tourists as you wander around the bustling stalls, but the majority of your fellow bargain hunters will be Thai, and you will be able to join in and enjoy an interactive experience together with them. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET: A true Bangkok landmark, Chatuchak Market (also known as JJ Market) has changed markedly from its genesis as an open-air flea market in a suburban field (which became muddy

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underfoot during rain showers). In 1995 the walkways were paved and covered over to make it easier for people to shop, especially during the rains. Since those early days the market has continued to expand, and today it covers about 30 acres, making it one of the world’s largest weekend markets. It is divided up into 27 zones, and each

Exploring Chatuchak Weekend Market bangkok101.com

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Fernando’s paella at Viva 8

Photos from www.sethlui.com

zone is dedicated to a different shopping experience. You might think you’ve visited some pretty amazing markets in your lifetime, but none will come close to beating the sheer size and variety found here. It really is a sight to see, and it’s probably the best place in the city to buy unusual souvenirs—and all sorts of other things—as long as you’re prepared to join in the fun and get your bargaining head on. First of all, offer the vendors about a quarter of what you are first quoted, and if you don’t end up getting your purchase for two thirds (or less) of what you were first asked for you need to go back to bargaining school. There are more than 8,000 stalls in the market, and Chatuchak attracts 200,000 visitors or more each Saturday and Sunday (open from 9am till 6pm). It gets plenty hot too during the heat of the day, but every few yards you’ll come across food vendors so take plenty of drink and snack breaks and you will enjoy your time more. And just as with the most popular street food places in the city, take your cues from the locals. If a vendor has long lines, you can bet that the food is good. A must visit is Viva 8 for a tasty paella, where the crazy Spanish chef Fernando holds court (he’s a tourist attraction all by himself!). A word of warning at Chatuchak: steer away from anyone offering ivory or anything else from endangered species. Thailand has signed up to combat the illegal ivory trade, and they police it well.

Rod Fai Ratchada ROD FAI RATCHHADA NIGHT MARKET: While Chatuchak has everything under the sun, you could say the Ratchhada Night Market has everything under the moon. bangkok101.com

It’s referred to in Thai as Talaad Rot Fai (“train market”), as it is similar to the larger train market in the outlying Srinakarin district. However, although this is a smaller version, it has quickly become a huge success with Thais and locals alike, partly because of the location—it’s set up in a paved area behind The Esplanade shopping mall on Ratchadapisek Road, which in turn is very close to the Thailand Cultural Centre MRT Station. The Rod Fai Night Market is most famous for being a retro and antiques market, with lots of vintage clothing, and other cool retro items. The shops and stalls themselves make use of (and are occasionally housed in) vintage cars, scooters, and old Volkswagen vans. There’s also an area dedicated to motorcycles of all shapes and sizes—the most popular being the Harleys, and Brit bikes such as Nortons or BSA’s. Plonk yourself down on a seat at one of the bars or coffee shops behind the rows of the lined-up motorcycles, and you will soon discover that these biker guys are not at all intimidating, and will be very happy to share their biking experiences with you, as you down a drink together.

Bargain hunting at Rod Fai As you wander around the Ratchada night market you will come across stalls selling 50’s style radios and audio equipment, vintage telephones, retro fashion wear, old metal street signs from around the world, as well as stuff that has become the tops in fashion for the younger set. This is one of the places in Bangkok where trends are set, and the rest of the city soon follows step. While this night market is primarily geared towards teens and twentysomethings, everyone can enjoy the multitude of food stalls, beer stations, little restaurants, and vans selling everything from crêpes to Japanese sushi, tacos, crazily-styled burgers, gelato ice cream, and a whole lot more. But even with your shopping and eating done, there’s no reason to head for home because there are some great places to watch a bit of live music or bust your moves on the dance floor—with DJs spinning their own mixes, or the latest in deep house. If that doesn’t take your fancy, and/ or you’re the wrong side of 30, just sit back, sip a cold beer or cocktail, and watch the goings on around you. NOTE: Another great night market—with lots of retro goodies, food, drink, and live music—is JJ Green, which is walking distance from Chatuchak Market. It’s open Thursday to Sunday, from 5pm till 2am. DECEM BER 2017 | 25

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Sharp Dressed Man

While Bangkok abounds with haberdashers flogging custom made-to-measure tailored suits, it can sometimes be difficult finding those that are truly a “cut above” By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

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ailor shops are as prolific as massage parlours in Bangkok, and in both industries service ranges from shoddy to excellent. A good tailor pairs a wide variety of quality fabrics with precise, on-time, in-fashion cutting skills. It’s not easy to pick one, since a good modiste doesn’t have to advertise—their reputation precedes them in well-dressed circles around town. Shirts and trousers can be turned around in two to three days with only one fitting. A jacket or a suit—jacket and trousers—takes two or three sittings to get the best results. A bespoke suit in Bangkok costs from B10,000 for synthetics or natural/synthetic blends, to B18,000 for 100 percent wool or cashmere. Tailor-made silk shirts and blouses should cost B1,000 to B2,000. Be warned that most of the “cotton” offered by Bangkok tailors is actually a blend of cotton and a synthetic, and honest tailors will mention this up front. Bring your own fabric if you want to be assured of 100 percent cotton. If you like the feel, Thai and Chinese silks are a popular, reasonably priced choice of fabric. Special deals advertising four shirts, two suits, a kimono, and a safari suit all in one package almost always turn out to be of inferior materials and workmanship With the preliminaries out of the way, here are a few spots I recommend based on either personal experience or the experiences of people I trust. If you decide to ignore this carefully curated list and strike out on your own, avoid any shop that employs street solicitation, whether it’s someone standing in front of the shop saying “Hello sir, how about a new suit?” or taxi and tuk-tuk drivers promising big discounts and a fare-free ride. Other

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red flags include hard-to-believe prices and 12-hour turnaround times. SIAM EMPORIUM: One of the city’s oldest continually running tailor shops in the city, Siam Emporium started up at Siam Center in 1976, and now owns its own corner building on Sukhumvit. Fair prices for detailed work, broad fabric selection, and excellent customer service draws a loyal repeat clientele. I always deal with a kindly Sikh named Jit. Women as well as men are well served here. 170 Sukhumvit Rd (corner of Sukhumvit Soi 8) Tel: 02 253 3421 www.siamemporium.net

RAJAWONGSE CLOTHIER: Run by a father and son, Rajawongse Clothier has cut suits for the likes of US presidents, scores of diplomats, and state department officials. The narrow storefront isn’t showy, though; like most of its neighbours, it appears to be a nondescript hole-in-the-wall. But inside, the one-room shop is nearly bursting with the bolts of Egyptian cotton, wool and wool-cashmere blends that are used to complete their made-to-measure creations, which range from shirts and trousers to full suits. 130 Sukhumvit Rd (near the Landmark Hotel) Tel 02 255 3714 www.dress-for-success.com

LALA DULY: Famed for their impeccable cotton dress shirts, Lala Duly specializes in classic yet stylish looks for discerning gents. There are myriad customizations to make here, as the outfitter offers 22 bangkok101.com

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collar designs, 10 cuff options, and sharp details from buttonhole colours to yoke styles to dart angles. If you want an entire suit to go with your new shirt, they can also accommodate you here. On the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 49 and 49/3, 800 metres from Sukhumvit Road.

Duke of Edinburgh. On Silom Road next to Sala Daeng BTS station, opposite Silom Complex.

Tel: 02 662 6647 www.laladuly.co.th

PINKY TAILOR: Another established couturier, Mr. Pinky of Pinky Tailor has been crafting clothing for men and women in Bangkok since 1980. While he’s happy to take measurements at your home, office, or hotel room, it’s better to visit his workshop at Mahatun Plaza Arcade, which boasts three entire floors of fabrics. I have a few friends who swear by Pinky.

TAILOR ON TEN: Situated in a charming, spacious house at the end of Sukhumvit Soi 8, Tailor on Ten is one of only two clothiers in the city under Western management—owners Alex (Canadian) and Nike (German) founded the company in 2010 and create premium garments using the highest quality fabrics available from Italy, England, and Ireland. Unlike many Bangkok-based tailors, the guys here produce all of the products on the premises with their team of in-house cutters, stitchers, and quality control personnel, so you can rest easy knowing your fancy new duds were produced fairly. Don’t make the mistake of thinking it’s on Sukhumvit Soi 10; it’s on Soi 8. 93, Sukhumvit Soi 8 Tel: 084 877 1543 www.tailoronten.com

PERRY’S TAILOR SHOP: Owned and operated by septuagenarian twin brothers Narong and Phonchai (and no one named Perry), and in business since the mid-1970s, Perry’s Tailor Shop uses top-notch cloths imported from European textile mills such as Ermenegildo, Zegna, and Dormeuil. Their reputation is legendary among dandies, and they boast an incredible array of high-society customers, including none other than the always dapper bangkok101.com

Tel: 02 233 9236 perry.tailor@gmail.com

888/40 Ploenchit Rd (Mahatun Plaza Arcade) Tel: 02 253 6328 www.pinkytailor.com

EMBASSY SUIT GALLERY: I originally turned up at Embassy Suit Gallery on Soi Lang Suan last year because I needed a linen suit for a friend’s wedding with only a few days’ notice, and I’d heard they offered quality work with quick fittings and delivery. They helped me choose a sturdy yet light linen that I’ve been very happy with, and the cut was super—better than what I was used to at my regular tailor across town. And I took delivery of the suit in three days, coming for fittings on Friday and Sunday and picking up the suit on Monday. I’ve since had two pairs of slacks made here and am very happy with their skills, pricing, and speedy turnaround time. One of the managers is a very knowledgeable American named Howard. 29/1 Piya Place, Soi Lang Suan Tel: 086 030 3789 www.embassysuitgallery.com DECEM BER 2017 | 27

CITY PULSE | making merit

Second-Hand Treasure Troves

Do the planet a favour and give second-hand clothes a new lease on life Words and photos by Kelly Harvey

(un) FASHION Vintage Collection

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ncreasingly over the past few years, the topic of ethical and environment-friendly ways of life has become the talk of, well, the entire world—one of the main points being our eating practises. But while vegans and vegetarians butt heads with meat eaters daily, ranting and raving over the detrimental effects the meat industry has on the environment, there is one activity that we all partake in that has an equally as devastating effect on the environment: buying new clothes. In the 2015 fashion documentary The True Cost, the harrowing truth about the fashion industry and its severe impact on both cheap labour and the environment was exposed. Mainstream clothing retailers are now taking current catwalk trends to the public faster than ever 28 | DECEM BER 2017

before, a term coined “fast fashion”. The stock on the shelves is constantly changing and new items are being added regularly—leading to us, the consumers, buying more and inadvertently throwing more clothes away because they are no longer considered “fashionable”. And landfills are growing bigger as a result. Adding more fuel to the ever-polluting fire, not only is the fashion industry one of the most resource and labour-intensive industries in the world, but according to the Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report—compiled by the Global Fashion Agenda and the Boston Consulting Group and released earlier this year in May—in 2015 the fashion industry contributed a staggering 1,715 million tons of carbon dioxide emissions. Which is not surprising bangkok101.com

N E W Y E A R ’S E V E

R O O F T O P C E L E B R A T I O N S T I C K E T S AVA I L A B L E B O O K E A R LY TO AVO I D D I S A P P O I N T M E N T P L E A S E CO N TAC T O U R D I N I N G R E S E RVAT I O N S

For further information please contact dining reservations Tel : 02 100 6255 Email : diningcgcw@chr.co.th CentaraGrandatCentralWorld

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CITY PULSE | making merit

(un) FASHION Vintage Collection

Thonglor Art Village

when you consider that the fashion industry makes use of electricity, agriculture, road transportation, oil and gas, and even the much-talked about livestock industry to produce its garments. And while many designers have made an effort to become more sustainable and “give back” in some way or the other, there are still billions of clothes that are being discarded like used tissues. Used clothing doesn’t need to be, and shouldn’t be, disregarded. So do the planet a favour and give second hand clothes a new lease on life. Instead of feeding into the wasteful consumer market that wants us to discard anything that isn’t brand new, we can simply swap the fast fashion for vintage couture. Bangkok, in fact, has a flourishing second-hand clothing market. Among the most well-known places to pick up some vintage garb are Chatuchak Market and JJ Green (BTS Mo Chit), Rod Fai Market (Srinakarin Road), Rod Fai Market Ratchada (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), and the Siam Gypsy Junction (MRT Bang Son), However these markets are either only open on weekends, or after 6pm.

Fortunately, there are also plenty of second hand treasure troves located within the realms of the city, particularly in the Phrom Phong, Thong Lor, and Ekkamai areas. One of the better-known second hand stores in Bangkok is (un) FASHION Vintage Collection located on the corner of Ekkamai Soi 10—a straight shot down from BTS Ekkamai station—and it’s open daily from 12pm to 9pm. Although it looks like a haberdashery of sorts from the outside, this retro reseller imports vintage items from across the globe; from the United States to across Europe. The items here are as unique as their origin. The property is split into three adjacent buildings. On the righthand side you’ll find women’s clothing, shoes, bags, hats, and other hand-made items on display from the floor to the ceiling. Meanwhile, the middle building is stocked high quality men’s apparel, and in the largest building (on the left) is a café split across two floors. There is a wide range of offerings for both men and women, but the spotlight is shone on high quality genuine leather shoes—the warm smell of which welcomes you before you even enter.

EXTENDED SHELF LIFE Instead of letting those old books sit and gather dust on a shelf, sell them for cash at Dasa Book Café. Located directly between Sukhumvit Soi 26 and Soi 28, Dasa Book Café stocks over 18,000 second-hand books in English, as well as books in several European languages. Patrons are greeted by a “blowout book” section at the door, with books priced between B19 and B99. Inside, on the first floor is a small café surrounded by general fiction and guide books, as well as a large collection of CDs. On the second floor you’ll find mystery, science-fiction, romance, biographies, and a whole lot of non-fiction books. Meanwhile, the themes on the third floor range from horror and true crime, to music and film, to poetry and plays. They’ll even give you up to 50 percent store credit when you exchange books bought from Dasa Book Café. They’re open daily from 10am and 8pm and their online book database is updated every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday (see website). www.dasabookcafe.com

30 | DECEM BER 2017

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CITY PULSE | making merit Along nearby Thong Lor Road, just after Soi 17, the humble Thonglor Art Village could easily be missed by unknowing passersby (be sure to keep an eye out for the chalk-written sign and a rack of men’s shirts priced at B100). It’s split across two separate stores, with the first selling an array of second-hand clothing for B500-a-piece to B3,000 for 10 pieces. Second-hand vintage couture is also on offer, but at a higher price. The second store— located directly after the pharmacy five metres down— displays an assemblage of paisley shirts, fur coats, leather bags, bulky and delicate jewellery, and a whole lot more; somewhat reminiscent of a very funky grandmother’s wardrobe. Thonglor Art Village is open daily from 11:30am to 8:30pm, so be sure to pop in if you’re looking for something unique to add to your wardrobe. And grab a tea or coffee from the café while you browse the racks. Over on Sukhumvit Soi 51, tucked away on the second floor of Zudrangma Records, the stockpile in the Lost & Found Store is mainly sourced from Japan, ensuring oneof-a-kind pieces with a funky edge—ideally suited for the hip clientele that frequents the record store downstairs. But with Harley Davidson tees and denim shirts, to sequin and chiffon jackets, to chunky broches and retro sunglasses, the Lost & Found Store has something for just about everyone. They’re open Wednesday to Saturday from 12pm to 8pm, but also make regular market appearances including last year’s Wonderfruit Festival and this year’s Sansiri Market Fest at T77.

Tokyo Joe Finally, the two-storey Tokyo Joe BKK, located on Sukhumvit Soi 39, both sells and buys used clothing and housewares—brand name items, men’s and women’s clothing, furniture, home electronics, tableware, and even children’s toys… you’ll find it all here. From vintage Louis Vuitton handbags and retro slacks, to tea sets and toasters, Tokyo Joe BKK is overflowing with second-hand treasures. The array of eclectic umbrellas, racks of women’s clothing, and piles of children’s toys that line the entranceway make this store very hard to miss. There is also a second branch on Sukhumvit Soi 69 and both are open daily from 11am to 8pm. 32 | DECEM BER 2017

Tokyo Joe

WHERE TO DONATE While many of the stores and shops mentioned elsewhere in this article will happily buy your unwanted clothing to sell in their stores, there are many organizations in Bangkok that will happily take them off your hands and give them to the people who need them the most. So instead of reaping in the cash rewards, make merit and donate your second-hand goods to one of these trustworthy organisations SECOND CHANCE BANGKOK: Located at 101 Narong Road, Second Chance Bangkok not only makes second-hand goods accessible and affordable for the less fortunate, but also provides work opportunities for those living in Bangkok’s Khlong Toei slums. In turn, they aim to reduce the number of items sent to landfills, as well as finance existing projects that support some of the most vulnerable and needy residents of Khlong Toei. Donations made be dropped off during office hours Tuesdays through Saturdays, or alternatively, they’ll arrange a pick-up and collect your unwanted clothes and goods right from your doorstep. www.scbkk.org MERCY CENTRE: Among its many initiatives, the Mercy Centre (100/11 Soi Kheha Phattana) provides shelter, care, and education for 180 children from the Khlong Toei slums. While donations of any kind are welcome, when it comes to clothing, children’s clothes are particularly in high demand. Donations may be dropped off at the head office in Khlong Toei. www.mercycentre.org THE POH TECK TUNG FOUNDATION: This non-profit organisation, located at 326 Phlap Phla Chai Road, partakes in various charitable services, including providing aid and relief to victims of floods, typhoons, and fires throughout Thailand. One of their goals is also to provide winter clothing to those in need. Donations may be dropped off directly at the foundation. www.pohtecktung.org

bangkok101.com

Touch of Thai Massage at the Spa By Le MĂŠridien

| LIVING IN STYLE

LIVING IN STYLE blissful spa packages to welcome the new year Cast off your cares, rediscover the tenderness in your tendons, and recharge your batteries with an excellent Thai massage. Throughout December 2017, and up till the end of January 2018, say goodbye to the old year and welcome the new one by indulging yourself with a TOUCH OF THAI MASSAGE at the beautiful 6th floor SPA BY LE MÉRIDIEN. Put yourself in the intuitive hands of the spa’s gifted therapists and follow your bliss over a 60-minute session, surrendering all that stress. Enjoy this peaceful indulgence in the shade beside the hotel swimming pool or in a private treatment room. The package is priced at B1,600 net, per person, and the spa is open daily from 11am till 11pm. www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com

eco-fabulous floorspace It was only a matter of time before one of Bangkok’s mega malls went green. As part of a popup space known as ECOTOPIA, the 4th floor of SIAM DISCOVERY (Rama I Rd) has embraced enviro-consciousness, displaying a range of sustainable fashion alongside low-chemical skincare products. The eco-friendly brands on display include Seeker x Retriever, Mr. Leaf, Taktai, Fulame, Thank U Earth, and Mindhara. Freshly peeled and cut organic produce from the Royal Projects and Mek Chong Farm is also on offer, while a pop-up stand of ORGANIC SUPPLY serves up vitamin-ladden juices and smoothies. The space is open daily from 10am till 10pm.

build up your base Expanding from its first Bangkok location—the Noble Remix 2 building on Sukhumvit Soi 36—BASE has finally arrived in the Silom/Sathorn area, opening up a branch in the SATHORN THANI BUILDING (2/F, Sathorn Thani 2, Sathorn Rd). There’s no excuse now to put off those much needed winter workouts, and the combination of High Intensity Interval Training (HIIT), data-driven monitoring of your progress, integrated nutritional programs, and a highly motivating training environment, should have your bod beach-ready by Christmas. Membership is B4,500 a month, while drop-in visits are B750 per session. www.basebangkok.com

island in the stream What was once a self-powered sand barge has been painstakingly renovated over the course of the last three years to create BANGKOK ISLAND, a multi-level mobile event space perfect for music performances, art exhibitions, workshops, or even weddings. The 320-person capacity vessel is the brainchild of YUVAL SCHWOK, founder and owner of dive bar-cum-hostel-comeart space THE OVERSTAY. His new island project is currently still under renovation, but will open soon, And, with the installation of two engines, it will eventually be capable of sailing upstream to Ayutthaya and the ancient temples, or South to the open sea. www.facebook.com/bangkokisland

bangkok101.com

DECEM BER 2017 | 35

LIVING IN STYLE | property profile

Siam Royal View Resort Koh Chang’s largest mixed-use developments unveils The Marina Condominium Phase I

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ove over Phuket, because Thailand’s second largest island, Koh Chang, is experiencing a marked increase in the number of visitors. Between the years 2010 to 2015 there has been an increase of over 220 percent in the number of visitors, which translates to 1,106,149 hotel registrations— and that doesn’t even take into account the number who stay in non-registered accommodations. Meanwhile, the The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) have expressed their optimism that the healthy tourism performance experienced in 2015 and 2016 will continue through 2017 and beyond. And with the recent announcement of a proposed ferry service linking Pattaya to Koh Chang, the future looks even brighter. This is all great news for Siam Royal View Resort, the largest mixed36 | DECEM BER 2017

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property profile | LIVING IN STYLE

use development on the island. And the team behind the property have just announced the launch of a new phase, The Marina Condominium I. “One reason that we have not seen even more tourists in the past on Koh Chang has been the lack of 3 to 5 star accommodation options available,” remarked Hanspeter Siegrist, a Director at Siam Royal View. “It is with this idea in mind that we are spending B95 million to create a number of luxury condos at our resort.” Located directly adjacent to the resort’s yacht marina on the Klong Son River, there will be 20 units available in the four-storey project, with competitive prices starting from only B87,000 per sq.m. Owners will benefit from the superb facilities at Siam Royal View— bangkok101.com

one of Southeast Asia’s largest beach resorts—which has over two km of sandy beaches, four km of waterfront, over 100 beach and pool villas, as well as a yacht marina, a pitch and putt golf course, swimming pools, restaurants, beach bars, wellness facilities, and more. Recently the resort has even opened a luxury boutique hotel, and there are plans to expand this in the foreseeable future. Meanwhile, owners at the Marina Condominium I development will be able to benefit from utilizing the resort’s management service to rent out their condos. The Marina Condominium I offers potential investors a choice of large studios (69 sq.m), onebedroom units (86.75 sq.m), and

two- or three-bedroom units (180.53 sq.m). In addition, all units come complete with top-notch furniture, kitchen appliances, bathroom facilities, and outdoor furniture on the terraces. The resort also offers buyers a number of beautiful villas for sale as well. Apart from the excellent facilities on site, boat owners may also moor their vessels directly beside their condo. And as the greater Koh Chang archipelago has over 50 islands to explore, nearly all year round, having a home here would be a boat lover’s dream come true! For further information, or to organize an inspection trip from Bangkok, visit either of these websites: www.siam-royal-view.com www.kohchangmarinacondo.com DECEM BER 2017 | 37

SNAPSHOTS | insight

"Longing for Siam. Inventing Thailand. No. 3" by Sutee Kunavichayanont 38 | DECEM BER 2017

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insight | SNAPSHOTS

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On Thailand

hailand, an over seven centuryold country, is at the brink of another major change. Its new epoch is about to begin in the reign of King Maha Vajiralongkorn, or King Rama X, alongside the current military government. What will the future bring at the dawn of this era? The capitals of Siamese have undergone many changes—from the “Dawn of Happiness” of the Sukhothai period, to the “War & Peace” eras of the Ayutthaya and Thonburi periods—but in what direction is the Bangkok (or Rattanakosin) period heading? Changes and uncertainties are what most people dread (although some embrace). In Buddhism, change is inevitable because the physical realm is impermanent. So as we long for the good old days, we have to reinvent ourselves in tandem. Through the peaks and falls of Thai history, we seem to have a knack in revamping our identities, images, and outlooks after any crisis. The Kingdom’s latest economic model, Thailand 4.0, sounds like another gimmicky technological invention, but this innovation-driven scheme may succeed if we look to the past as lessons learned, and to the

Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com

future as dreams to realize. History has taught us a great deal, but most of us are simply too stupid to learn. In recent decades, Thailand has gone through many changes—from the good, the bad, to the ugly. Before the 4.0 scheme, which pursues security, prosperity, and sustainability, Thailand was on its way to become one of the newly industrialized countries, or NICs, in the late 80s and the early 90s. Our economy boomed together with other “Asian Tigers”, but went bust in the 1997 Asian Financial Crisis. The ‘Tom Yum Goong’ bubble burst and left us with a bitter taste. Afterwards, we picked up our home-grown industries and dusted off luxury labels, and started the trend of new Thai designs and innovations. It only lasted until the arrival of the new millennium and the surge of regional economy. Thai social values thus went back to honouring face values again. Superficiality seems to surpass the essence of the matter. So how can we be secure and prosperous and sustain all of this if we cannot change our behaviours? Should we start changing some infrastructure first? A key to solid social structure is education. The nation has a wealth of natural assets and cultural treasures, however most of us are spoiled rotten and our human resources are underdeveloped. Among Thailand’s almost 70 million people, most are impoverished in mental and spiritual development. Our educational system is in dire need of a reform, not only the formal and higher education, but also the fundamental learning habits, attitudes, and guidance to moral and ethical conducts. Conscience and civic duties should be learnt and practiced by everyone to make this nation grow in the right way. Without this, we are left with a lack of skilled, competent, and responsible citizens. So leave the robots to the scientists for the moment and make sure that we all can run smoothly ourselves. Towards another new and improved version of Thailand, the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej gave

us both information and applications via his sufficiency economy projects. It’s up to us if we want to carry on his vision and legacy and ensure that our country will survive in any era. With the right policies and implementations, Thailand can prosper steadily. We have tried to eradicate poverty for decades, but the disparity of wealth seems to get wider because we have allowed certain conglomerates to monopolize some industries. No innovation is going to help if we keep letting this happen. As Thais’ smiles can contradict our feelings, Thailand is always full of paradoxes. With our big hearts and generosity, we let others abuse our kindness easily. Or have we become too indifferent and blasé about pressing troubles? After 85 years, Thai democracy hasn’t progressed very far. When good governance barely exists on paper, how can the society get its engine to function efficiently? We haven’t tackled traffic problems, corruption, or environmental crimes. We have let some monks behave badly. We have left many of our artistic and cultural heritages in sad states. We don’t even know how to conserve and restore our national monuments, such as the prangs of Wat Arun. We have accepted all of this as a norm. So as “Thai” means free, it doesn’t mean we are free to do anything or let things go unrestricted. Our freedom always comes at a price. Our colourful country is still far from perfect with its foibles and idiosyncrasies but the number of visitors increase yearly. Why do we still attract them despite all the good and bad reputations? Perhaps, our traditions are still relevant yet evolving in modernity. Glittering temples contrast with neon-lit pleasure palaces, and sunny beaches outshine political turmoil. The sense of sanuk, and being carefree, overtakes human rights issues. Being Buddhists, Thais’ worldview straddles between hope and despair. Thailand is forever transforming, and yet it has really never changed. DECEM BER 2017 | 39

SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand

The A, B, C’s of Attaining Celebrity Status In this new series of Bizarre Thailand columns author Jim Algie will be profiling some of the most famous and notorious foreigners in Thailand. First up is an Aussie journalist who turned his talent for language into a starry place in the Thai cosmos of celebrity.

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hanks to his hosting of TV programmes and game shows about learning English, his regular column in the Bangkok Post, and running his own English-teaching school—the Andrew Biggs Academy— Andrew Biggs may well be the most recognizable farang face in Thailand, His starting point on the serpentine road to fame in Thailand began in the editorial offices of The Nation newspaper where he was working at the time when somebody dropped by to say they needed English-language content and videos for the then-new and long-sincediscontinued Microbus line. On the spot they offered him the job. Initially hesitant about hosting a TV show—“I have a face that’s perfect for radio,” he said with a wry grin—the Australian turned what could have been a banal segment, “English on the Bus”, into an often hilarious and culturally insightful showcase for how to teach the language in Thai terms. Many mornings on the bus on the way to my own copy-editor’s job at The Nation— where I first met Andrew in 1995—inbetween nature documentaries showing Komodo dragons running down and devouring deer, up would pop Andrew speaking remarkably fluent Thai as he taught commuters how to speak English like Clint

4 0 | DECEM BER 2017

Eastwood by translating the tagline of a Dirty Harry film, “Go ahead, make my day”, into the local vernacular. In other segments, he spelled out how Thais could tell obnoxious farangs to piss off in polite terms, educated Thai women on how to ward off the comeons of would-be Romeos from the West, and even threw in a satirical lesson for Thai police officers to teach them how to bribe native English

speakers by using expressions such as “Please grease my palms.” The now 55-year-old expat parlayed those early appearances into regular slots on Thai TV, hosting news programmes and even a game show about learning English that turned him into a household name in Thailand by the late 1990s. To qualify for celebrity status, in my eyes anyway, requires more than just millions of Instagram voyeurs gawking at your retouched hindquarters hashtagged #bootyfordays. What you really need are stalkers, and Andrew has had several. One hunchbacked Thai woman dogged him for months, stepping out in front of his speeding car and nearly causing a fatal accident. Another Thai woman, who used to wait for him every evening for three months in the lobby of the TV station where he worked, became so aggressive one night that he had to call out for help from the security guards. But the lady told them that she was his old girlfriend and they backed off. “Thais won’t get involved if it’s a personal thing,” Andrew pointed out. “She used to send me letters and kiss them at the bottom with her lipstick and all that.” While his academic credentials are impeccable—he has a BA in Thai language studies and is currently bangkok101.com

bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS working on a master’s degree in Curriculum Innovation and Learning Management—his real background is in journalism. As a young reporter in Queensland he had the chance to go to England to work for another Rupert Murdoch newspaper. Thai Airways had the cheapest flights then, but the catch (and the letdown for him) was the mandatory two-day stopover in Bangkok. Arriving on Valentine’s Day, 1989, he had no interest in seeing the city. Instead, he had planned on holing up in his hotel room to spend his downtime reading Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. But the capital, with what he called its “air of excitement and lawlessness”, along with the genial people, slowly pulled him into their orbit. During his time at The Nation, he witnessed some pivotal points in Thai history, like the ‘Black May’ crisis in 1992, when protestors took to the streets around Democracy Monument to voice their discontent with the installation of an unelected military government. As tensions mounted over several days and nights, soldiers emptied their cartridges into the crowd and the body count soared past 50. Martial law was declared and a curfew imposed.

Bizarre

Thailand

Author Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the collection of short stories entitled The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (2014), and Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex, and Black Magic. Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com

The junta also attempted to censor the local press. Some papers like The Bangkok Post caved in, but The Nation did not. They continued to run stories and photos of the carnage. That did not sit well with the military, which brought its tanks rumbling down Bang-na Trat Road to point their turrets at the paper’s editorial offices, where Andrew and his colleagues had front-row seats during the tense standoff. These are the kinds of recollections that he sometimes shares in his weekly column ‘Sanook’ in the Brunch supplement of the Sunday Bangkok Post. It’s an entertaining read that also illuminates many murky aspects of Thai culture and history unbeknownst to most foreigners. For human interest, he sketches portraits of the Thai staff at his language school and their superstitious beliefs, while also tossing in observations, sometimes critical, sometimes laudatory, on the state of the nation. Of these topics, few are more contentious or pertinent these days than the subject of education. Thailand is mired in what economists call the “middle-income trap”. After moving from an agrarian society to a manufacturing-based economy, the country now needs to innovate its own products and services, which would require more critical thinking skills and a better education system free of rote learning. The main contradiction, he noted, “is that critical thinking skills go against Thai culture of respect your elders and shut up. But I have faith that the education system will get better, because it has to or Thailand will go down the pan.” For such a high-profile man about Thailand he always comes off as low-key and humble in person. Asked about his massive Twitter following, he said, “Nobody gives a shit about me. They just wanna learn English for

free,” and laughed. For this interview, at a coffee shop in the Terminal 21 mall, he showed up—apologizing profusely for his lateness—wearing jeans and a checked shirt pinned with a royal insignia to mark and mourn the passing of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej. His only nods to wealth or high fashion were an expensive watch and a stylish silver bracelet on his other wrist. When the meandering conversation turned homewards, he said, “I love Australia now, it’s more multicultural. Going home is fine for about three weeks, but then I start to get bored.” Would he ever consider moving back there? He contemplated the question and then, in a line that surely must echo the expat experience for many others who have abandoned their predictable homelands in favour of more exotic terrains, he shrugged and said, “What the hell would I do there?” On the upside, he probably wouldn’t have to fend off any hunchbacked stalkers. But pragmatically speaking, it’s hard to leave a place where opportunities keep coming your way. As he revealed in a recent ‘Sanook’ column, his omnipotence in Thailand is set to grow after Andrew recorded the new voiceovers for the Bangkok Immigration Bureau at Chaeng Watthana. Soon you will be hearing a distinctly Australian accent calling out, “Ticket number 53 at counter number 15”, to shepherd you to the right counter. Which brings his career from an outlier to an insider full circle, in a way that could only happen, and possibly only makes sense, in bizarre Thailand. Check out Andrew’s website at www.andrewbiggs.com, where he’s now doing video on demand. You can also follow him on Twitter at @andrewbiggs.

If you enjoyed this article you’ll definitely want to read Jim Algie’s most recent book, On The Night Joey Ramone Died: Tales of Rock and Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia, and Norway. In addition to two interconnected novellas, there will be a 25,000-word music journalism section added to the new paperback version of the book, which is due out later this year. The current ebook is still available from Amazon for US$2.99.

DECEM BER 2017 | 41

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Lhong 1919

One of the very few remaining examples of classic Southern Chinese architecture left anywhere in Bangkok By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

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ver 130 years ago, Teochew adventurer Tan Siew-Wang sailed from Southern China to Bangkok, where he founded the Wanglee clan, one of Thailand’s most prominent Thai-Chinese family dynasties, now in its 5th generation. Virtually nothing is known of the Wanglee forbear, who took up residence next to a Chao Phraya River steamship pier, built in 1850 to receive vessels from China, Hong Kong, and Singapore. One of tens of thousands of Chinese who disembarked at the Thonburi pier in the late 19th century, Tan Siew-Wang must have been a very determined man. Within a decade of his arrival, he established a successful rice mill next to the pier, along with another four mills further downriver. After marrying a Thai woman of 42 | DECEM BER 2017

Chinese descent, he built Wanglee House, a large courtyard house in classic Southern Chinese style, along with a number of large go-downs, alongside the pier. The house still stands today—one of the very few remaining examples of such architecture anywhere in Bangkok—and has been so well preserved that in 1984 it was honoured with an architectural conservation award from the prestigious Association of Siamese Architects (ASA). The Wanglee House has never been open to the public, but an adjacent Wanglee warehouse and shrine complex was last year converted into a riverfront mixed-used community mall. Covering 6,800 sq.m, the historic site opened its doors last month with a co-working space, dining outlets, and art and design shops

occupying huge, thick-walled rooms in the two-story complex. Lhong 1919, the project’s official name, refers to the original Chinese name for the defunct steamship pier, Huay Jung Long. Curiously, no one involved with the project could explain to me why the ‘h’ is included in the Roman transcription, as there’s no such letter in the Thai spelling of the Chinese name. The 1919 refers to the year in which ownership of the pier was transferred to the Wanglee clan, at which point the name was actually changed from Huay Jung Long to Wanglee Pier. The main two-story complex forms a U around a vast courtyard, offering visitors a look at post-Ming dynasty Chinese architecture designed with axiality, balance, symmetry, and other values of feng shui in mind. bangkok101.com

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS At the inside lateral of the U stands a 167-year-old shrine to Mazu, a Chinese sea goddess believed to be a deified form of Lin Moniang, a 10th-century Fujianese shamaness who after her death became the patron saint of Chinese seafarers. Here the goddess is also referred to by her Teochew name Ma Jo, or by the more familiar Thai moniker Thapthim. As marine trade at the pier dropped in the 20th century, the warehouses became a storage facility for Wanglee farm produce shipped down the river from up north. Rooms also served as offices and rented accommodation for company employees. As road and rail supplanted river transport, the facility was semi-abandoned and suffered neglect and disrepair. When the Wanglee patriarchs decided to rehabilitate and open the complex to the public, Rujiraporn Wanglee (above right), founder of award-winning interior design firm PIA, was put in charge of the renovation, which was carried out so as to preserve the original art and architecture as much as possible. Layers of paint were removed from walls to reveal Chinese mural art, while wood lintels, windows, and door frames were refinished—and in many cases, rebuilt. To highlight the buildings’ age, brick has been left exposed in spots where the plaster had fallen away.

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

Whether the cute clothing boutiques, ice cream vendors, and Thai fusion coffee shops occupying much of the space at Lhong 1919 detract from the original intention is a matter of perspective. But on my recent Sunday visit, the thick crowds of cameraphone-wielding Thai and Chinese tourists were unequivocally a distraction. One could literally look in any direction and count at least 20 people posing for photos in one’s line of vision, with plenty of selfie sticks negating any contemplation of history. Dining outlets so far include capacious Rong Si Rim Nam, specializing in Thai seafood, in a separate warehouse by the river, along with Nay Hang (traditional Thai coffee and simple Thai dishes like som tam and satay), and Plearn Wanpanich (Chinese-Thai snacks such as half-boiled egg, steamed bread with sangkhaya, and roast duck buns). Dr. Saran Wanglee, senior executive vice president at familyowned Navakij Insurance and Lhong 1919 spokesperson, told the Bangkok Post in September that the complex was targeting 2,000 to 3,000 visitors in the first year, but so far such numbers are readily reached in a single weekend. Perhaps the crowds will thin out as the novelty wears off. In the meantime, I advise visiting on a weekday rather than the weekend if you want to avoid the crowds. By the way, if you want to catch

a glimpse of the Wanglee House interior courtyard, climb to the top of the eight-story pagoda at adjacent Chee Chin Khor Chinese temple. History here extends beyond the Wanglee property to Chiang Mai Road, the two-lane street leading to Lhong 1919 from Thonburi’s Somdet Chao Phraya Road. Today lined with 50- to 100-year-old two-story shophouses, the street was built in 1930 and received its name from Rama VII to commemorate the recapture of Chiang Mai from the Burmese in 1775 by a joint force of Siam and Lanna troops under the command of King Taksin the Great. The only king of the short-lived Thonburi kingdom (1768–1782), ThaiChinese Taksin is credited with the reunification of Siam after the kingdom split into warlord-ruled fiefdoms following the total destruction of Ayutthaya by the Burmese in 1767. After establishing Thonburi as the new capital, Taksin was executed by his long-time friend Thongduang, a Mon noble who had served in Taksin’s royal court as Somdet Chao Phraya. Thongduang took the Siamese throne as Rama I, the first king of the Chakri Dynasty, and transferred the capital from Thonburi to modern day Bangkok, across the river. LHONG 1919: Located at 248 Chiang Mai Road, Khlong San, and open daily from 8am to 8pm. Tel: 08 1994 4597 DECEM BER 2017 | 43

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Thai Thai

How soi life became retro heritage – Part 1

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ernacular Thainess has gained a slang label, Thai Thai. This term conveys both popular culture’s diversity and, like “Very Thai”, a hint of both essence and exaggeration. Thai Thai is like Thai—only more so. Or, somewhat so. When Thais double a word it doesn’t always intensify, but may dilute or tweak the meaning: mahk mahk (much much) can imply too much; daeng daeng (red red) means reddish; and jing jing (true true) both queries and exclaims “really?!” This slang suits the way that popular culture teases fresh flavours from high culture. Popular culture has driven a path through official Thainess on the back of a motorcycle taxi. Culture is all about symbols, and the win motorsai has caught the public imagination as a symbol of social change. The long journey of motorsai drivers to gain respect parallels the struggle of everyday streetlife to broaden Thainess and earn a place as legitimate urban heritage. Much of the motorsai’s symbolic appeal lies in the seua win jacket—the zippervest in vivid hues that identifies the driver, and became somewhat cool. The jacket sits uneasily with dainty icons of Thainess, but became an informal emblem of Bangkok, like the tuk-tuk. The motorsai typifies how symbols of one class can change status, for culture is never static, whether high, low or hybrid. Motorsai went from popular culture to pop icon. “Folk and ethnic often become pop,” explains Gilda Cordero-Fernando, author of Pinoy Pop. “Some ethnic/ pop things become elite. Some elite things get too popular, slide down and become pop. What was high fashion yesteryear is considered pop today. Pop therefore also means out-of-date and not-quite-in-sync.” Similarly, in Thailand, long nails worn by men dropped from elite to street, while boutiques promoted ethnic Chinese-influenced fishermen’s pants into hip resort wear. Folk herbal remedies, while maligned if steeped in yaa dong liquor, become luxury once in a spa elixir. Village textiles went straight from folk to elite because the middle class can’t afford what has become handcrafted objets d’art. Technology may prompt such shifts: trucks take

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 4 4 | DECEM BER 2017

their auspicious décor from boat prows, while Western instruments turned languid folk songs into dynamic luuk thung pop music, which now gets an elite market through retro. Hipsters post Instagrams of their mountain bikes, but only after shedding the stigma of bicycles being ridden by the poor, who’ve since upgraded to scooter or pick-up. The ebb and flow is partly due to fashion, but also reflects the volatile history of Thainess. Khwam pen Thai (Thainess) conjures visions of a proud, warm-and-fuzzy national togetherness, as seen in countless patriotic expressions from ads and flags to stickers and T-shirts. It can get very emotional, almost mythic, but it wasn’t always so sentimental. Thainess only became more inclusive through huge upheavals, and echoes sakdina—a long-abolished feudal system that ranked status using points—in its unequal social relations. Thai nationalism first arose to impress the encroaching colonialists that Siam was siwilai (civilized), by adopting Western styles and methods—and missionary morals— while keeping foreign ideas at bay. Initiatives by Kings Rama IV, V and VI shifted Siam from vague tributary deals to precise international norms: nation state, flag, anthem, borders, uniforms, insignia, institutions, Roman pillars, surnames, dictionaries, rule of law, and a moralistic view of civilization. The origin of Thainess as diplomacy helps explain the ongoing indignation at unapproved foreign portrayals (as in The King & I). Siam’s rulers, seeing empires fuse into states like Germany or Italy, learned that nation-building must submerge regional allegiances under a single new identity. So Siam adopted the concept of “nation-religionmonarchy” to assimilate its many ethnicities and Chinese immigrants, resulting in the slogan “all Thais”. This unity mantra has worked pretty well, though Muslims chafe at the Buddhist-Brahmin aspects, and Deep South separatists target symbols of Thai state ideology. Although Chinese cultural identity was also suppressed for much of the 20th century, Sino-Thais ended up champions of official Thainess.

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Wat Bowonniwet & Wat Rajabophit

Two temples to admire on their own, and also for remembering the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

Photos on this page: Wat Bowonniwet

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he late King Bhumibol Adulyadej is now part of Thailand’s grand history, even if the overwhelming emotions that took hold of Thai people, since the announcement of the monarch’s passing in October 2016, still remain close to the surface. And even though the Kingdom is now moving forward, into a new chapter in its rich narrative, the spirit of Rama IX will continue to be perceptible in Bangkok—and all over

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the nation—for a very long time. In Bangkok, two of the city’s most beautiful temples are designated as final sanctuaries for the remains of His Majesty, and visiting them provides an opportunity to both pay a last homage to Thailand’s beloved King, and discover two marvelous architectural jewels. The relics and cremated remains of the late King have been enshrined at Wat Rajabophit and Wat Bowonniwet Vihara with King

Maha Vajiralongkorn presiding over religious rites, following the transfer of the royal ashes. Interestingly, both temples played a significant role in the history of Thailand’s monarchy. Wat Bowonniwet is a Royal Buddhist Monastery built between 1824 and 1832, situated along Phra Sumen Road. The temple is a centre for the Thammayut Nikaya order of Thai Theravada Buddhism, founded by Prince Mongkut (the future King Rama IV). He was, at that time, abbot bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS

Photos on this page: Wat Rajabophrit

to the temple, and a tall golden chedi, erected in 1831, pays a tribute to the then Prince. This temple has also seen all modern-day Thai monarchs being ordained here. The late King Rama IX entered the monkhood here in 1956,

Historic

Bangkok

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

and consequently paid many private and official visits to the temple—to talk to the teacher he once had, and also to pay respect to the Supreme Patriarch, who has a residence within the temple compound. In fact, Tamnak Phet, the magnificent throne hall of the Supreme Patriarch, is one of the most beautiful buildings within the temple compound. Completed in 1914, it is an elaborate structure blending Thai architectural traditions with European Art Nouveau, inspired by the Italian ‘Liberty’ style. It is an amazing structure, richly detailed in floral motifs, stucco, marble floors, and elaborate woodcarving. The nearby Golden Chedi, at the wat’s shrine, contains the relics and ashes of Thai royals, including now King Rama IX. On the terrace of the chedi stands a statue of King Rama IV reading a book. It was sculpted by artist Luang Theprojana in 1868. The nearby Ubosot (main hall) has a majestic Buddha dating from the Sukhothai period—sculpted around 1257. The walls of the temple also have exquisite murals from Siamese monk artist Khrua In Khong, painted in Western style, dating back to the middle of the 19th century. The other temple under consideration, Wat Rajabophit, is located behind Sanam Luang, along Asadang Canal. It is one of Bangkok's

most colourful temples, thanks to its walls covered in Benjarong ceramics. Yellow, blue, violet, purple, and green tiles, along with golden stucco and mother-of-pearl inlay doors and shutters, make the entire building a true piece of art. Wat Rajabophit was built in 1870 by King Rama V following a tradition that saw each King building a wat (temple) during his reign. While the large chedi is inspired by Ceylon’s religious architecture, the Ubosot pays tribute again to European architecture. It is a pure Venitian neo-gothic structure, with crystal chandeliers and bronze lighting. The temple is also deeply linked to the Monarchy as the relics of the Mahidol royal family are kept with mausoleums in Gothic, Khmer, Thai, and neo-classical styles surrounding the structure. Part of the royal ashes of the late King Bhumibol now rest at this temple. VISITOR INFORMATION Wat Bowonniwet is located on Phra Sumen Road, a few meters away from Khao San Road. The temple compound is generally open from 9am to 5pm, and admission is free. Wat Rajabophit is located along Asadang Canal on Rajabophit Road. The temple compound is also open from 9am to 5pm, and admission is free. DECEM BER 2017 | 47

A monk crosses over the U Bien Bridge in Myanmar

ASEAN CONNECTIVITY T

hailand has had a thriving tourism industry for quite a bit longer than its nearest neighbours to the North—namely LAOS, MYANMAR, and CHINA—but all that is starting to change as the governments of those respective nations begin to actively court travellers of all kinds. This year, in an effort to bolster tourism throughout the region, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) is promoting this connectivity by showing how easy it is to make a multi-country journey of discovery by using CHIANG MAI as the jumping off point for discovering cities such as YANGON and MANDALAY in Myanmar, and LUANG PRABANG in Laos. The area in Northern Thailand where the Kingdom’s borders with both Laos and Myanmar come into contact is referred to as the GOLDEN TRIANGLE, located just north of CHIANG RAI. This is another nexus of crosscountry connectivity, and just one of the points of arrival and departure highlighted in a new booklet and map put out by Thailand’s DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM. The travel routes showcased on this map (see page 64 for more) also highlight many of Thailand’s ROYAL PROJECT sites which are accessible to tourists, as well as similar sustainability projects in Laos, Myanmar, and Southern China. And while these various regions show marked linguistic, religious, and cultural similarities, perhaps the thing that binds them together most forcibly is the mighty MEKONG RIVER, which flows right through this diverse geographic expanse. The Mekong’s estimated length is 4,350 km, beginning in the Tibetan Plateau and running through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Needless to say, it’s the tie that binds much of Southeast Asia. In October of this year, MEKONG TOURISM was lauded at the 2017 Global Tourism Economy Forum (GTEF) round table—a forum for tourism collaboration case studies that in turn could become key economic drivers for future sustainable development and growth. Held under the theme of ‘Regional Collaboration Towards a Better Future’, the think tank highlighted how tourism collaboration initiatives by regional groupings such as the Mekong Tourism Coordinating Office (MTCO) helped guide member countries towards tourism sustainability. The United Nations’ World Tourism Organization also used the 2017 GTEF as a platform to launch the 2017 Asia Tourism Trends Report, which it produced together with the Global Tourism Economic Research Centre (GTERC). The report hailed the Asian tourism collaborations of ASEAN, the GREATER MEKONG SUBREGION (GMS) and the SILK ROAD as being particularly successful. However, when all is said and done it’s the travel “experience” that will resonate with visitors, and the diversity of attractions (some historic, some thoroughly modern) in this region is overwhelming. Add to that an ever growing number of upscale hotel and restaurant experiences—such as the ANANTARA GOLDEN TRIANGLE ELEPHANT CAMP & RESORT, the FOUR SEASONS TENTED CAMP GOLDEN TRIANGLE, and the newly opened X2 CHIANG MAI RIVERSIDE RESORT—and you have at your fingertips a voyage of both learning and luxury.

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Exploring the North

Firmly positioned as the epicentre of Thailand’s Northern tourism realm, Chiang Mai continues to offer more and more for people passing through Words and photos by Bruce Scott

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t’s no secret that Chiang Mai is currently one of the most visited cities in Thailand. In the past several decades it’s metamorphasized from a sleepy northern town into a bustling mini-metropolis. Upscale resorts and fine dining restaurants are now commonplace here, and the Chiang Mai International Airport will probably soon have to expand to handle the non-stop influx of visitors. In fact, The Chiang Mai International Airport Short and Long Term Development Plan (2016-2025) details the growth of the airport with the ultimate aim of handling up to 34 flights per hour, and expanding the facility’s capacity to 18 million passengers per year. “With the integration of the ASEAN Economic Community, we aim to promote ASEAN as a single tourist destination,” said Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Governor, Mr. Yuthasak Supasorn. “These initiatives will help boost awareness of the tourism connectivity for multi-destination itineraries in the greater Cambodia, Lao PDR, Myanmar, Vietnam, and Thailand (CLMVT) region. The TAT believes that expanding available flight services is crucial to the entire tourism industry to facilitate the flow of tourists travelling within the CLMVT as Thailand continues to develop its leadership role as the region’s aviation hub.” One of the benefits of this increased airport capability is that it allows travellers a perfect jumping off point to explore nearby cities in neighbouring counties such as Mandalay and Yangon in Myanmar (see pg 58), and Luang Prabang in Laos (see pg 56). On a recent press trip organized by the TAT, a group of international journalists were taken on a whirlwind tour of this connectivity conduit, stopping in on three cities in just five days, and getting a guided tour of some famous, and occasionally lesser-known, landmarks.

THE SILVER TEMPLE Anyone visiting Chiang Mai will discover very quickly that there are many, many temples to explore, especially within the confines of the old city. However, just outside the old city walls is Wat Sri Suphan (100 Wua Lai Rd), an ornate, Lanna-style Buddhist temple originally built in 1502. Little remains of the original structure, so what visitors are treated to instead is an eye-popping recently constructed temple where the walls and roof, inside and out, are covered in embossed silver, nickel, and aluminum panels. The major restoration work began over a decade ago, and as a result the carvings combine a fantastical mix of ancient and modern iconography. Look closely amidst the Nagas 50 | DECEM BER 2017

Silversmith monks at work

Wat Sri Suphan, The Silver Temple

and Garudas and you’ll see mythic figures holding electric guitars, modern day superheroes like Spiderman, and the coat of arms of several neighbouring ASEAN nations (note, however, that because this is an active ordination hall, only men may go inside the ubosot). It’s a fitting centrepiece for the surrounding village of silversmiths, and visitors can also watch these master craftsmen at work, and even try their own hand at tapping out a design on a small key ring (with some expert guidance from the staff).

MODERN ART Opened in 2016, the 3,000 sq.m modern, state-of-the-art MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum, located 20 minutes from the centre of Chiang Mai in the Sankamphaneg district, was created in memory of founder Eric Bunnag Booth’s great, great aunt Chao Chom Iam—a royal consort to King Rama V—and is a direct result of the family’s desire to share their private art collection with the general public. bangkok101.com

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Jean-Michel Beurdeley discusses a favourite painting

At the foot of Chiang Dao mountain

During a recent visit we were lucky enough to have Eric’s father Jean-Michel Beurdeley (also one of the museum’s co-founders) give us a fascinating, and very personal guided tour. He explained his reasoning for choosing certain pieces, and gave us insight into the artist’s own inspirations. And while the impressive permanent collection belongs to the family, there are also temporary exhibitions of visual art, design, and fashion on display, and the museum also stages performances, film screenings, lectures, and workshops. Even the building’s exterior is a marvel, with small mirrored rectangles covering the whole of the front façade. The MAIIAM is open every day except Tuesdays, from 10am6pm, and admission for adult/student is B150/B100.

ECO-TOURISM Thailand’s Ministry of Tourism and Sports supports local communities like the ones in Ban Hua Tung by organizing eco-tourism visits that help tourists gain a bit more of bangkok101.com

Basket weaver in Ban Hua Tung village

an understanding on the importance of conserving our natural environment. The Hua Tung community, who live at the foot of Chiang Dao mountain, is a good example of people living in harmony with their natural resources. For instance, the villagers ordain certain forest trees as “monks” so that no one will cut them down (the trunks are tied with a ceremonial cloth). Tourists and students can DECEM BER 2017 | 51

TRAVEL | focus on asean connectivity salad sundae—served inside a hollowed melon-half—and in the delicious fruit smoothies. Carnivores, meanwhile, should try the barbeque Flintstone-sized pork spareribs smothered in homemade BBQ sauce, the German style sausage platter, or the tender salmon steak. There’s also a wide array of homemade cakes and desserts available. www.ohkajhuorganic.com

Forest trees ordained as monks

learn about this and other local ways of life, and visit the nearby rice fields, organic farms, and forests. Homestays are also available.

CHOW DOWN CHIANG MAI There are two locations of the very popular Oh Ka Jhu restaurant in Chiang Mai (and one in Bangkok as well, at Siam Paragon). The original location is a bit off the beaten track—121 Outer Ring Road, Sansai—but the second outlet is located in a community mall near the airport, making it much easier to get to. Either way, a visit to this cheery farm-to-table restaurant ensures you’ll be treated to fresh, organic fare, as all the veggies are grown organically in the huge green garden just behind the Sansai branch. The leafy salads, served with a variety of homemade dressings, are delightful, but fruit is also in abundance, both in the fruit

Meena Rice Based Cuisine

Another unique dining destination worth seeking out is Meena Riced Based Cuisine. The restaurant is set in a refurbished Lanna-style rice barn—surrounded by tall trees, greenery, and overlooking a small pond—and is located about 5 km to the east of the city centre. Inspired by the traditional ways of Thailand’s rice farmers, the menu offers diners dishes that deliver authentic recipe food and beverages, most of which have rice as an ingredient. Be sure to order the house specialty, a multi-coloured, pie-shaped block of rice that combines brown, jasmine, saffron, and butterfly pea rice with super dark riceberry (accompanied by colourful edible herbs and flowers). www.facebook.com/meena.rice.based

BOUTIQUE RESORT

The chef/owner mascots of Oh Ka Jhu

Flintstone-sized pork ribs 52 | DECEM BER 2017

The Ping River flows through the heart of Chiang Mai and the Na Nirand Boutique Resort is ideally located right on its banks. There are 45 accommodation units at this romantic resort—all with a private balcony or verandah—starting with the 39 Deluxe Suites (31-46 sq.m), and continuing up in size to the two Corner Suites (53 sq.m), and the four themed Riverfront Colonial Suites (65-73 sq.m). Each room

Pool at Na Nirand Boutique Resort bangkok101.com

focus on asean connectivity | TRAVEL is adorned with local fabrics and handicrafts, wooden and rattan furniture, colonial touches, and murals that reflect local art, as well as an array of luxurious modern amenities including flatscreen TV, mini bar and fridge, and in-room Wi-Fi. The central courtyard is dominated by a large openair swimming pool, surrounding by greenery, and there’s a fitness room and spa on-site as well. But even if you’re not an overnight guest, try and pay a visit to the resort’s all–day dining venue, Time Riverfront Cuisine & Bar. With indoor and outdoor seating, including a rooftop wine bar, this eatery serves delicious Thai and international cuisine. www.nanirand.com

Rooftop pool by night

CHIANG MAI GOES MICHELIN

Riverfront Suite

Suite River View. I found myself checked into a spacious 3rd floor Riverfront Suite which includes a King-size comfort spring bed, 42” 4K Ultra HD LED Smart TV, mini-bar and capsule coffee maker, room safe, comfortcontrolled air-conditioning, work station area, and in-room Wi-Fi. The private balcony, which looks out over the Ping River—offers a relaxing sunbed, while the large bathroom comes complete with a dual vanity and rainshower. Other hotel amenities include the 5th floor Ozone area—a swanky rooftop bar and swimming pool, with sunbeds and cabanas, as well as an adjacent fitness room. And when the sun goes down the tiny fibre optic twinkle lights that cover the bottom of the pool make it look like stars are reflecting on the water’s surface. Another highlight is the ground floor H20 Water Bar & Tea Lounge which offers 50 brands of still and sparkling water, as well as an extensive selection of teas and tasty cocktails, mocktails, and healthy beverages. www.x2resorts.com/resorts/chiang-mai-riverside

Photos courtesy of X2 Chiang Mai Riverside

Like all the X2 (cross-to) resorts in Thailand, the newly opened X2 Chiang Mai Riverside Resort offers holiday makers a chic retreat with flair to spare. However, this newest addition to the Chiang Mai hotel scene also brings Michelin star power to the city in the form of Chef Nicolas Isnard, the restaurant’s menu consultant. Born in the south of France, Nicolas cultivated his own culinary sensibilities while working all over France—from Matignon to Dijon. In 2009 L’Auberge de la Charme, the restaurant he co-owns in France, earned a Michelin star within a year of opening. This year he finds himself firmly ensconced in Northern Thailand, where he will be working alongside Executive Chef Alexandre Demard. At the Oxygen Dining Room, the resort’s glass-walled, all-day restaurant venue, Nicolas and Alexandre have crafted a menu that pushes the culinary envelope—something the fine dining scene in Chiang Mai is not always known for. Even the breakfast menu here has intriguingly uncommon items on offer, such as the wonderful deconstructed vegan Khao Soi (which utilizes quinoa, of all things). During a recent media dinner the chefs and their team wowed diners with such culinary concoctions as: mackerel with roasted beetroots and raspberries in hibiscus broth; squid stuffed with zucchini caviar served with Thai basil pesto and pumpkin seeds; and pork confit served with carrot, orange, kumquat, and coriander. However, the most delicious dish that night for me was his prawn tartare, served with green mango, pea guacamole, and a calamansi jellyfish garnish. Meanwhile, the resort itself is a stylish 5-storey red brick property with 30 elegantly designed units, ranging from the 50 sq.m Tamarind Suite to the 177.5 sq.m Pool

Left: Consulting Chef Nicolas Isnard; Right: Oxygen Dining Room bangkok101.com

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Laid Back Luang Prabang The pace in Lao PDR’s premier tourist destination is as gentle as the current of the river flowing through it

Mekhong River

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Words and photos by Bruce Scott

eparting from Chiang Mai International Airport, Lao Airlines offers direct passage to the city of Luang Prabang, in the northern part of Lao PDR. The flight time is about one hour, with gorgeous rugged highland scenery visible from the airplane window as you approach this elevated mountain hideaway. Positioned at the sacred confluence of the Mekong River and the Nam Khan (Khan River), this UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to more than 30 gilded wats, hundreds of saffronclad monks, faded Indochinese villas, and wonderful Gallic-influenced cuisine—a tasty holdover from the city’s French Colonial era. It’s also a very laid back little enclave, where bicycles make the best mode of transport and not much goes on after midnight.

GIVING ALMS TO MONKS You’ll need to be up mighty early if you want to take part in this daily ritual of giving alms, but as there’s not much late night action in Luang Prabang, getting up at 5am isn’t such an onerous task. By joining in, or merely observing this captivating daily ritual (known as Tak Bat), visitors will

At dawn, giving alms to local monks 54 | DECEM BER 2017

get some insight into the spiritual life of the locals. Each day, starting at around 5:30am, hundreds of saffron-clad Buddhist monks walk in a row to receive offerings. They walk single file, oldest first, carrying their silver alms bowls in front of them. The people waiting for them, kneeling or sitting, place food—usually handfuls of fresh sticky rice—into their bowls, as well as flowers, incense sticks, and/or other items. About 800 monks take part in the morning alms round, and tourists are welcome to participate. Sisavangvong Road is the most well-known spot to witness this procession.

MORNING MARKET After observing the giving of alms, it’s easy to make a side trip to the morning fresh market, which gets going at around 6am and continues till about 10am. Each day, in the web of alleys off Sisavangvong Road, vendors set up their makeshift stalls selling a wide variety of edibles—from fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices, to freshly butchered meats, catch-of-the-day seafood, and exotic local delicacies such as frogs, bats, and insect larvae.

WAT XIENG THONG Located on the northern tip of the city’s peninsula Wat Xieng Thong (or “Temple of the Golden City”) is one of the most beautiful and revered monasteries in Luang Prabang. Originally built in 1559 by King Setthathirath, it was formerly under royal patronage and many kings were crowned here. It’s also one of the few temples that was not destroyed during the Black Flag Army invasion of 1887, which adds to its historic importance. The central sǐm (ordination/ congregation hall) has a gorgeous sweeping three-tiered roof that extends almost to the ground. On top of the building sits a gilded Dok So Faa, an ornamental element consisting of 17 miniature stupas, each covered by a 7 tiered parasol, and bangkok101.com

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The stunning exterior of Wat Xieng Thong

Fresh seafood at the morning market

Temple near the National Museum

on the exterior of the back wall there’s a colourful mosaic of the tree of life, created during the 1960s. Meanwhile, the sǐm’s interior is as impressive as its exterior, with intricate gold stencilling on black lacquer decorating both the walls and the massive teak wood pillars supporting the roof, and a principal Buddha image seated on an elaborate pedestal surrounded by many smaller images. There are two entrances to the temple—the road entry and the river entry (which used to be the main entry point that the King used when arriving by boat from the palace). All the buildings and structures within the temple grounds are visually stunning, and many are decorated with colourful mosaics, but one building that rivals the beauty of the main ordination hall is the Royal Funerary Chariot Hall, which was constructed in 1962 and boasts a two-tiered roof adorned with Naga finials. It contains the elaborate carved wooden funeral carriage of King Sisavang Vong who died in 1959. The carriage is decorated with large Naga snakes at the front, and inside are three very elaborate urns that used to contain the ashes of the King,

his father, and his mother. Entrance to Wat Xieng Thong is 20,000 Kip, and it is open daily from 6am to 6pm.

bangkok101.com

LUANG PRABANG NATIONAL MUSEUM The Royal Palace in Luang Prabang was built in 1904 during the French colonial era for King Sisavang Vong. When the communists came to power in 1975 they took over the residence and sent the royal family to re-education camps. The palace, built in French Beaux-Arts style, was renovated and converted into a museum in 1995, which is open to the public. The exhibits within stretch back several centuries, telling the story of the of the Lane Xang kingdom’s turbulent past, as well as the colonial and modern day eras. Admission is 30,000 Kip, and the museum is open daily, except Tuesday, from 8am to 11:30am, and from 1:30pm until 4pm (unfortunately, however, taking photos inside the palace museum is strictly prohibited). The grounds surrounding the museum are beautifully manicured, and the property is also home to a number of other buildings, DECEM BER 2017 | 55

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Souvenirs for sale at the night market

Entrance to the Pak Ou Caves

attraction for any visitor. Many organized tours take tourists on guided expeditions to the Pak Ou Caves, where thousands of Buddha images are housed at the base of a limestone cliff facing the river. It takes about two hours to reach the caves, travelling 25 km north by river barge, but the waters are usually calm and the scenery is stunning along the way. Arriving passengers disembark from the boats, and then climb up a paved flight of stairs that lead up to the main cave—which, according to legend, was discovered in the 16th century by King Setthathirath, one of Laos’ greatest kings. The main cave and the upper cave were both used during this time period to hide precious Buddha statues from being destroyed by invaders. Over the centuries the two caves here have gained prominence as a sacred religious spot and today 2,500 Buddha and Buddhist-related sculptures are located in the lower cave alone—having been added, one-by-one, in the ensuing years by visitors. The sculptures vary in size and style, from ancient looking stone carvings, to more modern plastic and wood-carved figures. Meanwhile the upper cave, which is unlit so you need a flashlight to see anything, contains about 1,500 Buddha statues, many of which are quite large. It requires a short jaunt uphill to access this next level, but walking around in this darkened space is very atmospheric. Entry to the caves is 20,000 Kip, and kids under 10 are admitted free.

WINING & DINING

Buddha figures of all shapes and sizes

including a spectacular ornate Buddhist temple, the National Theatre, and an imposing statue of King Sisavang Vong.

MOUNT PHOUSI The panoramic city view from the top of Mount Phousi is magnificent, especially at sunset when the hills in the distance recede in gradated layers of mist and haze. The 150-metre high hill is easy to climb, and there are two paths leading up—one of which leads right into the popular Luang Prabang Night Market, which takes over much of the length of Sisavangvong Road on a nightly basis. Enjoy the sunset view up top and then shop for handicrafts, souvenirs, and other assorted odds and ends below.

PAK OU CAVES RIVER CRUISE The mighty Mekong River is central to life in Luang Prabang so taking a cruise along this historic waterway is an obvious 56 | DECEM BER 2017

L’ÉLÉPHANT VERT: This stylish eatery is one of the first ethno-botanical “living” cuisine restaurants in Southeast Asia, and well worth a visit. Many of the ingredients are locally grown, most of them organically, and the menu showcases traditional Lao cuisine in vegan, vegetarian, and meat and fish formats. www.elephant-restau.com/elephantvert COCONUT GARDEN: This two-storey restaurant offers plenty of seating—indoor and out—and the menu selections include many delicious Laotian specialties. It’s a popular casual dining spot located on Sisavangvong Road. www.elephant-restau.com/coconutgarden ICON KLUB: Set in a beautiful white vintage-looking building just off Sakkarine Road, this late night drink spot—one of the few in Luang Prabang—first opened in 2009. The interior has a 1920s vibe and features both indoor and outdoor seating, as well as a variety of crafted cocktails, great music, cool staff, board games, books of poetry, and plenty of art. Open from 5pm till 11:30pm, six nights a week. www.iconklub.com

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Memories of Mandalay Rich in history, this former capital offers travellers a trip back in time Words and photos by Bruce Scott

Myatheindan Pagoda

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ompared to the many other ancient capitals scattered around Myanmar, Mandalay is a relatively new city. It was constructed in 1857, along the Irrawaddy River at the foot of Mandalay Hill. Before its final annexation by the British Empire, it was the last royal capital of the Konbaung Dynasty. But on November 28th, 1885, the conquering British sent King Thibaw Min and Queen Supayalat into exile, thereby ending the Third Anglo-Burmese War. And while Mandalay remained the most important city in Upper Burma during British colonial rule, the commercial and political importance of the nation had shifted to Yangon. In 1892 this former capital was immortalized in Western culture by the poem “Mandalay”, written by Rudyard Kipling. The poem tells of a British soldier and his nostalgia and longing for the exoticism of Asia, and the countries and cultures located “East of Suez”. The soldier’s Mandalay memories contrast starkly with the cold, damp, and foggy climates of his own land, not to mention his homeland’s rigid social disciplines and conventions. Nowadays, however, it’s easy to get back to Mandalay, and Bangkok Airways flies here direct from Chiang Mai (flight time just over an hour).

HISTORIC CITY LANDMARKS In the centre of the city sits the sprawling grounds of Mandalay Palace—a legacy of the Konbaung Dynasty— which is surrounded by a 2km long wall on all four sides, and a perfectly square moat (64 metres wide) outside those walls. Tragically, Mandalay was bombed extensively during WWII, and this palace was almost entirely destroyed, along with much of the rest of the town. The palace was rebuilt bangkok101.com

Mandalay Palace

in the 1990s, staying faithful to the original design, and has since become a major tourist attraction. Highlights include the 24-metre-high Watch Tower—which visitors can climb up to get great views of the palace grounds—and the informative Cultural Museum. DECEM BER 2017 | 57

TRAVEL | focus on asean connectivity

Lookout tower at Mandalay Hill

Washing the face of the Buddha at Mahamuni Paya

As one of the few royal palace buildings to survive the bombings of WWII, the Shwenandaw Monastery—also known as the Golden Palace Monastery—is a piece of living history. It is built completely of teakwood, and is decorated inside and out with fantastically detailed and ornate carvings. It used to be one of the main palace buildings, but was moved to its current location, just to the northeast of the palace, in 1880. Admission is 10,000 Kyat. In 1860 construction began on the Kuthodaw Pagoda, a 57-metre-high golden Buddhist stupa. Surrounding the stupa are 729 identical and ornately designed white kyauksa gu, or stone-inscription caves, and each of these enclosures contains a large marble slab, inscribed on both sides with a page of text from the Tipitaka (the Pali Canon of Theravada Buddhism). Taken as a whole, the entire collection forms the largest “book” in the world.

MAHAMUNI PAYA Every morning at 4am a large crowd of Buddhist devotees come to the Mahamuni Paya temple to watch the ritual face cleansing—and teeth brushing—of a 13 foot tall seated golden Buddha (popularly believed to be some 2,000 years old). Male and female devotees are kept separate—men in front and women in the back—and the solemn ceremony, performed by monks, lasts about one hour. Respectful tourists are welcome to observe what is a fascinating glimpse into the spiritual life of the people of Mandalay. A 1,000 Kyat fee is required in order to take photographs.

MANDALAY HILL Rising up 224 metres, Mandalay Hill offers visitors some magnificent views of the surrounding city and countryside. At the summit sits the ornate Su Taung Pyae Pagoda, and the wide terrace here is a great place from which to enjoy the sunset. There are four covered stairways leading up the 58 | DECEM BER 2017

Ornate kyauksa gu enclosures at Kuthodaw Pagoda

hill from the south, southeast, west and north, but you can also save time by driving most of the way up the road that leads to an escalator and lift—each of which takes visitors up to the pagoda level. Pagoda entry fee is 1,000 Kyat.

U BEIN BRIDGE Just to the southwest of Mandalay city you’ll find Taung Tha Man Lake, in the Amarapura district. The lake is lovely, but the main draw here is the U Bein Bridge, which at 1.2km is the longest teak bridge in the world (and it’s reportedly the oldest teakwood bridge as well, built around 1850). The bridge crosses this broad lake at its narrowest point, and depending on the season—rainy or dry—the

WHERE TO EAT GOLDEN PALACE RESTAURANT: For a crash course in Burmese cuisine, make a stop at the Golden Palace Restaurant on Sagaing Mandalay Street. It’s an indoor restaurant, with comfortable air conditioning, and while the décor is fairly basic, lots of daylight comes in through the floor to ceiling glass windows. Set menu lunches serve up large portions of curry-based main dishes that comes with lots of extra sides and fresh salads. The staff is friendly and courteous as well.

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focus on asean connectivity | TRAVEL

U Bien Bridge at midday

Myatheindan Pagoda

Shwenandaw Monastery

Peering up from under the Mingun Bell

water level may be shallow enough for a fisherman to stand up in, or high enough that the water reaches to just below the bridge’s slatted wooden floor planks. A leisurely walk across to the other side and back, with lots of photo stops along the way, will take about one hour. A great time to visit the bridge is just after sunrise, when hundreds of villagers and monks commute back and forth across it, or at sunset when the structure is silhouetted against the evening sky. Whichever time, expect to see lots of foot traffic, and lots of laid back hawkers along the way selling snacks, drinks, and souvenirs at shaded rest stops situated along the length of the bridge.

working bronze bell in the world (the largest “cracked” one is in Moscow). It was cast in 1808, and is thoroughly intact, although hundreds of people have carved their initials and other messages into the inner surface. Finally, the highlight of visiting Mingun is a trip to the blindingly white Myatheindan Pagoda (also called the Hsinbyume Pagoda). The massive and intricately designed structure, modelled after the mythical Mount Meru, was built in 1816. It consists of seven concentric terraces, which represent the seven mountains that rise up to Mount Meru, and representations of mythical creatures can be seen in the pointed niches of the shrine. Visitors can climb the stairway to the top of the structure, which offers commanding views of the river and countryside. It’s definitely a must-see attarcation!

LANDMARKS OF MINGUN Taking a boat trip to the town of Mingun, about 10 km northwest of Mandalay, lets you enjoy the gently flowing currents of the muddy Irrawaddy River. But it also brings you up close to some amazing historic landmarks, the first of which is the Mingun Pahtodawgyi, a large but unfinished pagoda. It began as a massive construction project by King Bodawpaya, in 1790, but a prophecy foretold that as soon as the building was complete the country would also be gone (another variation was that the King would die once the project was completed). Thus, construction was slowed down to prevent the prophecy’s realization, and when the monarch eventually died the project was completely halted. Then, on March 23rd, 1839, an earthquake caused huge cracks to appear on the face of the remaining structure, which are still visible to this day. Admission into this archaeological site is 5,000 Kyat. Nearby the unfinished pagoda is the Mingun Bell, which weighs 90 tons—making it the largest uncracked bangkok101.com

WHERE TO STAY EASTERN PALACE HOTEL: All hotel stays in Myanmar need to be in government sanctioned properties (in other words, no homestays), and as such the Eastern Palace Hotel—located in the heart of the Mandalay’s main business and historical district—is a good choice for upscale business and leisure travellers. It offers 114 modern guest rooms and suites, each with in-room Wi-Fi, mini-bar and fridge, flatscreen TV, and more. The hotel also offers a sky bar, fitness centre, swimming pool, and restaurant. However, getting hot water in the bath and shower can sometimes be an issue. www.easternpalacehotels.com

DECEM BER 2017 | 59

TRAVEL | over the border

It’s Yummy in Yangon A sophisticated foodie scene exists in Myanmar’s largest city Words and photos by Samantha Proyrungtong

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hen you think of Yangon, or Myanmar for that matter, cuisine and gastronomy don’t exactly spring to mind right away. Yet, unbeknownst to the rest of the foodie forward world, Yangon seems to be plotting a quiet but definite revolution. Without getting into complex historical references, the past has seen Myanmar (also known as Burma) and Yangon (formerly known as Rangoon) left behind in the Southeast Asian tourism boom. While Bangkok and Bali were enjoying an influx of Europeans, Australians, and Americans looking for sun, spice, and rich indulgences, Yangon’s tourism remained sluggish. But there is much to be said about a country which has maintained its “authenticity”, and as the Myanmar borders open wider and wider, Yangon’s choice, diversity, and quality of cuisine blossoms. Italian pizzerias, contemporary tea houses, artisanal delis/bakeries, eclectic bars, and even fine dining establishments are sprouting on main streets and side alleys. On our recent visit we were warmly welcomed at the airport by our English-speaking Khiri Travel tour guide, who expertly handled our tour in Yangon. It may be the “new” Asia, but when one has no other local contacts, and only a short week to cram a plethora of activities, we put our trust in the hands of the professionals. RANGOON TEA HOUSE: You would be mad not to visit the Rangoon Tea House (77-79 Pansodan St) which has become “the” institution for modern Burmese cuisine. Founded by a young entrepreneur Htet Myet Oo, the two-storey building is split into two levels, with two completely different design settings. Whilst downstairs is a bustling, bright, and rowdy contemporary

tea house, upstairs is a dimly lit, colonial-style speakeasy, with low ceilings, velvet sofas, and barman in suit vests. Here we encountered our first Burmese fermented tea salad, Lahpet Thoke, the national dish of Myanmar. And it was explosive! An exotic combination of bitterness from the fermentation of tea, the softness of cabbage and tomato, and a whole lot of texture from beans and chickpeas. Actually all the dishes here had their merits. Try the grilled aubergine salad—the vegetable is so incredibly fresh and the pop of fried onions and sesame makes this dish unique. www.rangoonteahouse.com TUK TUK THAI CAFE: Another establishment that took us by surprise was the quaint and unassuming Tuk Tuk Thai Café (114 Bogalazay St). It’s set in a narrow two townhouse building on Bogalazay Street, a popular hangout where you’ll find other funky eateries, galleries, and gift shops. The interior is cozy and colourfully kitsch. You simply must order their version of Nam Dtock (Thai grilled beef neck salad), which appeared to be dry and not bathing in fish sauce—as we’re used to—but still bursting with rich flavours. Another difference we spotted was the use of more fresh mint and coriander, and large chunks of crispy garlic which they dressed atop of the delectably sinewy but succulent beef. Another mouth-watering dish was the curry leaf seabass, which we found to be at a fine dining standard. Cooked sous vide with salted egg yolk cream sauce, this dish had a multitude of complex layers. Finally, this eatery had the best latte we tried in Yangon, which is usually typically an indication of restaurant quality. wwwtintinyangon.com

Rangoon Tea House 60 | DECEM BER 2017

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over the border | TRAVEL

Seeds

Tuk Tuk Thai Café

Seeds

Tuk Tuk Thai Café

SEEDS: As one of just a handful of fine dining establishments in Yangon, and a new one at that, Seeds (No.63/A, U Htun Nyein St) offers a multi-faceted dining experience that is breathtaking. The restaurant itself boasts an expansive grassy yard, which stretches out to Inya Lake by a wooden boardwalk (at the end of which sits a charming gazebo and pod couches in which to watch the glorious sun setting over the lake). There’s also a single tree pod, cocooned by bamboo, which makes for the ultimate fantasy romantic proposal dinner spot. As for the menu, Swiss Chef Felix Eppisser’s dishes are not confined to one continent, as he explores recipes from Spain to Japan and all over the globe. Our favourites were the salmon and cream cheese mousse with dill, and the Parma ham with butter and herbs, which had a deliciously rich glaze and a chocolatey finish. Unique, specialty, and imported produce is hard to come by in Yangon, so be aware that the prices here are as opulent as the dishes. Don’t expect the standards of Bangkok fine dining just yet, but do keep some cash spare for this rare gastronomic treat. www.seedsyangon.com TAING YIN THAR: A renowned restaurant in Yangon, given that it is the only one that represents dishes from all regions of Myanmar—from Yangon to Mon, and Shan bangkok101.com

Taing Yin Thar

State and beyond—Taing Yin Thar (No.2/A, Kanbae Rd) is a foodie must. It’s commonly a place where tourists, expats, and diplomats come to dine in comfort, and at a fair price, without forfeiting the authentic (high quality) local taste experience. We suggest you order the silver mullet fish curry, which hails from the Yangon region. The fish is wonderfully rich in gelatinous fat, that complements the sharp citrus, herbs, and the spice of the curry. Pair this with a plate of potatoes with mustard leaves from Shan State; the combination of carb, coriander, and bitterness is highly addictive. Lastly, order the Pennywort salad, which is floral and refreshing and our personal highlight, and don’t pass up the massive soft shell crab, which comes out the size of a lady’s fist, and packs a punch to match. www.taingyinthar.com.mm For information about travel in Yangon, and Myanmar in general, visit: www.khiri.com/myanmar DECEM BER 2017 | 61

TRAVEL | chiang mai royal projects

The Sovereign of Sustainability

The Royal Projects in Chiang Mai are just part of the legacy of King Rama IX By James Austin Farrell

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isiting the booming northern metropolis of Chiang Mai is always an entertaining experience, but it can also be an educational journey. For those interested in seeing first-hand the lasting legacy of King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s Royal Projects, a good place to start is the Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon, established in 1979 and located in Khun Klang village (a 2.5 hour drive from the city). It’s one of four such stations in Thailand, and was part of His Majesty’s vision to promote farming sustainably as well as diminish poverty and deforestation in Thailand by giving the hilltribes living in these Northern regions knowledge of farming and sharing the latest innovations and technologies with these farmers. The station now consists of gardens, ponds, nurseries, greenhouses, all of which are places of work as well as a busy tourist attraction. The focus here is on growing mainly temperate vegetables, ornamental flowers, and fruits, as well as farming fish. For the most part the farmers working at the station are members of hilltribe communities, either of Hmong or White Karen ethnicity. Prior to the introduction of alternative crops, such as coffee, one of the main sources of income for these hilltribe people was the production of opium. For some ethnic groups the consumption of opium was also a part of their culture, something the Thai government wanted to change.

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It took some years to convince farmers that indeed sustainable, and profitable farming was possible outside of farming opium. Under the advice of the King, who visited the hilltribes all over the north on many occasions, this did eventually change. Hilltribes now practice sustainable methods of farming, as well as learning about post-production issues such as marketing and price fluctuation. The Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon project is home to many people whose entire families live here, and in return for work they are paid a wage and are given free accommodation and meals. At the moment the project is full, and there is a waiting list to get in. Tourism and work activity at the park are not exclusive—tourists and workers mingle—so it’s a great chance to see agricultural life in action. At the same time, a stay in the park offers far more than the experience many tourists have, which is often just driving up the hill, taking a selfie at the ‘Thailand’s Highest Mountain’ sign, and driving back down again. In addition to the educational value, the park itself is gloriously eye-catching, decorated by the work itself—hillsides festooned with flowers and ponds home to swans languorously paddling about. There are also a number of nature trails starting from the project, perfect for daytime hikes. bangkok101.com

chiang mai royal projects | TRAVEL

Coffee Cultivation

Thailand’s Royal Project coffee is much sought after worldwide, bolstering production all over Thailand’s northern regions

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ne of the main focuses of the Royal Project in Chiang Mai was the cultivation of the coffee bean, something the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej saw as more than a viable alternative to the opium crop that was originally being farmed in Northern Thailand, especially along the borderlands with neighbouring Laos and Myanmar. Today, Thailand has become a burgeoning producer of coffee on the global market, presently ranked in third place among Asia’s top coffee producers. However, attaining this success has been no easy feat.

“Research was key, as the cultivation of coffee was often thwarted by setbacks. Dr. Pongsak recalled, “In the beginning there was rust disease, or ‘coffee disease’ as we call it. This destroyed the coffee tree. If we couldn’t find a solution to this, the farmers would have to use more pesticides, and this would result in more costs for the farmers. We had to find a rust resistant crop. “We carried on research until now to get a better quality of coffee and a better standard of production,” the doctor noted proudly, pointing out that coffee production in the north is expanding, now covering Chiang Rai, Mae Hong Son, Nan, and Lampang—highland areas at 800m to 1,600m elevation. The Royal Project now encompasses 22 areas that produce Royal Project coffee. In all they produce about 500 tons annually. The coffee is bought from the farmers and sold to roasting companies, but the Royal Project also roasts its own coffee—around 50 tons a year. by James Austin Farrell

SUFFICIENCY ECONOMY

At the Coffee Research and Development Centre located inside the Chiang Mai University campus, Prof. Dr. Pongsak Angkasith (below), Head of Coffee Research and Development Project for the Royal Project Foundation, spoke about the ascent of Thailand’s coffee production, and with it, Royal Project coffee. “We started replacing opium with fruit farming, such as peaches, but moved on to vegetables and various temperate fruits. Coffee was also one of the promising crops, so we started to grow and promote coffee to farmers. Coffee is a perennial, or what we call a permanent crop,” Dr. Pongsak noted, adding that farmers started to realize they could earn a good living, achieving an even better income than farming the poppy had given them. bangkok101.com

There are currently more than 4,100 Royal Project developments in Thailand, a number so large that the Office of the Royal Development Project Board (ORDPB) was created in order to maintain it. This covers not only coffee cultivation, but also research centred around food and water resource management in order to tackle such things as malnutrition and poverty. This is aligned with the late King Rama IX’s ‘Sufficiency Economy’ theory, which not only focused on sustainable development but also encapsulated an almost epicurean philosophy which His Majesty hoped would be followed by the people of Thailand. The basis of this was to live within one’s means, and if the country practiced sustainable development then the people of Thailand would always have enough. The Royal Project initiative also included healthcare initiatives and educational initiatives, all aimed at offering a better life for people in remotes rural areas. For this and other work the King was given the United Nations Development Programme’s first Human Development Lifetime Achievement award in 2006.

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Xishuangbanna

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Exploring the Sustainable

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In an effort to promote sustainable routes linking the Royal Projects in Thailand and tourism destinations in Myanmar, Laos and China, Thailand’s Department of Tourism is producing detailed and downloadable maps of two sustainable travel routes in the Greater Mekong Subregion (GMS).

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Royal Agricultural Station Angkhang

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Golden Triangle

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Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon

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1A For over 70 years, His Majesty the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej initiated literally thousands of development projects that have greatly benefited both the country and Thai people; most notably the project to improve the Northern hill tribe people’s quality of life by replacing the cultivation of opium poppies with the growing of cash crops, such as coffee and fruits. Many of those projects have become popular tourist destinations among the Thais and foreigners.

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To honor and pay tribute to the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, whose philosophy led to the sustainable community and tourism destination development, and to develop multicountry products in the GMS, the Department of Tourism will produce both a booklet and map with the objective to promote the thematic tourism routes linking Thailand’s Royal Projects to other GMS countries.

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THAILAND – MYANMAR

Luang Namtha

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Beginning in Chiang Mai, the most popular tourism hub in Northern Thailand, and continuing on into the relatively unexplored reaches of Myanmar—via Chiang Rai—this route takes in a wide variety of culturally significant landmarks and active Royal Projects sites. Travel route highlights on this map include: CHIANG MAI • Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon • Khun Wang Royal Project Development Center • Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station CHIANG RAI • Wat Rong Khun • Doi Tung Development Project

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AH13

THAILAND – LAOS – CHINA

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Beginning in Chiang Rai, in Northern Thailand, this exciting route travels up through the Golden Triangle region and into the upper reaches of Laos. This route then detours into Southern China, which is yet another relatively unexplored region of this geographic nexus. Travel route highlights on this map include: CHIANG RAI • Huay Nam Kuen • Pha Tang Royal Project Development Centre • Golden Triangle LAOS • Ban Huay Xai • Luang Namtha

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CHINA • Xishuangbanna / Jinghong

TRAVEL | upcountry now

RIVER KWAI BRIDGE WEEK Until December 5

Each year, beginning in late November and running till early December, the world famous River Kwai Bridge in Kanchanaburi—built by Allied prisoners-ofwar during World War II—becomes the focal point of multi-day celebrations. Visitors can enjoy light and sound performances which illustrate the story of how the bridge was built (and the terrible hardships the POW labourers endured). Event highlights include historical and archaeological exhibits, a carnival, folk and cultural performances, and rides on World War II vintage trains. In addition, there will also be booths selling food.

KATA ROCKS SUPERYACHT RENDEZVOUS December 8-10

After an extremely successful debut last year, the Kata Rocks Superyacht Rendezvous returns to welcome the world’s maritime elite. Hosted at the exclusive Kata Rocks resort in Phuket, the 2017 edition of this event will once again bring together superyacht owners, and the region’s best luxury yachts, in a relaxed social environment. The three-day programme will offer a series of bespoke activities, glamorous parties, and other networking events, all set against the stunning backdrop of the region’s worldclass charter yachts assembled in the surrounding waters. If you love boats, you’ll love this event!.

JET SKI GRAND PRIX December 8-10

The annual Jet Ski King’s Cup-World Cup Grand Prix, which takes place at Jomtien Beach, South Pattaya—in Chonburi province—is considered to be one of the most important competitions on the professional jet-ski calendar. This event has been receiving great interest from many top professional riders all over the world. This year there will be a competition in several categories, such as Stand-up Ski, Jet Ski Parasailing, Sport, Standard, and many more. As one of the biggest competitions of its kind, it continues to attract more and more tourists and local people as well each year.

PHU RUA POINSETTIA FESTIVAL Until January 31, 2018

The Phu Rua district in Loei province is one of the best places in Thailand to see cold climate plants. This region is the largest producer of red Christmas poinsettias, with nearly 100,000 poinsettia plants grown each year across a five rai area. Provincial authorities thus have a good reason to organize the Phu Rua Poinsettia Festival, held in the Poinsettia Garden located near the entrance to Phu Rua National Park. Visitors can enjoy taking pictures of the beautiful red leaves of these yuletide icons, and at night visitors can enjoy beautiful lanterns lit up to celebrate the Christmas season. 66 | DECEM BER 2017

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ART

| ART & CULTURE

ART PROJECT 89/70/4447+ = 9 → 10 109 works by Preecha Thaothong honour the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej

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here are many, many art and photography exhibitions in Bangkok and across Thailand that are paying tribute to, and honouring, His Majesty the late KING BHUMIBOL ADULYADEJ. The current show at THE QUEEN’S GALLEY features a collection of 109 tribute pieces created by Emeritus Professor PREECHA THAOTHONG and it probably has the most intriguing title for a royal-related exhibition to date, namely ART PROJECT 89/70/4447+= 9 →10. The exhibition showcases teachings of Dharma, nature, and religious art, and illustrates 23 ways in which His Majesty’s work is remembered—in effect summarizing His Majesty’s visionary wisdom and immeasurable royal grace. The overall display features four series of timelines, starting from His Majesty’s accession to the throne, and follows through to his travels to the remote corners of his Kingdom, his wisdom in spearheading development projects to better the lives of his people, and his end results (which have led to more than 4,000 sustainable development projects). These pieces of religious art will lead viewers to the ultimate recognition of His Majesty’s goodness, beauty, and truth towards his land and his people in the Kingdom of Thailand—throughout his life—which, in turn, have been inscribed eternally into the hearts of the Thai people. Born in 1948, Emeritus Professor Preecha Thaothong received B.F.A. and an M.F.A. in Painting—both from Silpakorn University, Bangkok—and Diploma of Drawing from the Academy Bella Arte, Rome (Italy). From 2000 to 2003 he was a Dean of The Faculty of Painting Sculpture and Graphic Arts at Silpakorn Universityand in 2009 he was elected to be Thailand’s National Artist. He was one of the seven leading national artists selected to create paintings for Mahajanaka, a book penned by King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Khun Preecha has also exhibited widely in Asia, Europe, and America. ART PROJECT 89/70/4447+ = 9 → 10 runs until DECEMBER 19 at THE QUEEN’S GALLERY (101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd). Viewing hours are Thursday to Tuesday, from 10am to 7pm. For more information, call 02 281 5360. www.queengallery.org

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

DECEMBER 2-30 The Lights of Faith Number1 Gallery

19, Silom Soi 21 Viewing hours: Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 630 2523 | www.number1gallery.com

This personal and sentimental exhibit by artist Ekasit Rayubsang has been created in loving tribute to the late King Bhumibiol Adulyadej. In the artist’s own words: “The photograph of a man, wearing a majestic military suit, sits in a frame at the highest point where my mother hangs it in the house. She told me that he is our beloved King and told me plenty stories about him, and all the work that he did for his people. That is how I began my drawing career. ‘The Lights of Faith’ are thus representative of my loyalty and faithfulness to use all his teachings as a light that shines through and guides our lives.”

DECEMBER 1-JANUARY 25 Eclipse

H Gallery Bangkok 201, Sathorn Soi 12 Viewing hours: Daily, 10am-6pm, Tue by appointment Tel: 085 021 5508 | www.hgallerybkk.com

Exploring a central concern with wayfinding, where experience segues into metaphor and vice-versa, visitors move through the darkened interior of the gallery and encounter spotlit icons and images of disappearance and loss. In this exhibition of new works by Jedsada Tangtrakulwong, he has replaced the gallery’s lighting with low hanging bulbs so the means of recognition become precarious objects of interest. In addition, the central part of this show features nearly 100 blackened books—the result of damage caused to the artist’s belongings (due to the flooding of his storage space in Bangkok last year).

DECEMBER 12-17 Something Missing

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) 939 Rama I Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 10am-9pm Tel: 02 214 6630-8 | www.bacc.or.th

By sharing ideas and artistic points of view between Theatre Momggol (Korea) and B- Floor Theatre (Bangkok), two directors—Teerawat Mulvilai and Yoon Jon Yeon— have developed another joint performance (their 3rd year running). From a journey of “something that is lost” in the 1st year, came the “mad beliefs” in the 2nd year. This time around the two theatres want to step up the production and challenge themselves as well as their audience, by telling a story of a “journey for lost things”, wherein this week-long project will talk about missing parts in our society and culture. 70 | DECEM BER 2017

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

UNTIL DECEMBER 16 Tell the Tales La Lanta Fine Art

245/14, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm, Sun by appointment Tel: 02 260 5381 | www.lalanta.com

In this exhibition Punyisa Sinraparatsamee presents her new body of work, consisting of small and medium sized 3-D wood assemblies. The artist is fascinated with the mechanics of using hinges as the pivotal elements in constructing her sculptures. Small pieces of wood are cleverly connected with several hinges to create artworks that resemble objects we know from the past—evoking nostalgia (enhanced by the installation of an outdated CD player, vintage PlayStation, old accordion, and other objects of old). Born in 1991 Punyisa graduated in 2013 from King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology.

UNTIL DECEMBER 30 The Stranger

Tang Contemporary Art Bangkok 3F, Golden Place Plaza, 153 Rajdamri Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 652 2732 | www.tangcontemporary.com

In his paintings depicting enchanting urban night scenes, village buildings with folk touches, and worried or happy figures, artist Zhang Yongxu uses particular lighting and distortions to construct a distinct painting language. As fragments of memory, his scenes are given a freshness, allowing the real and surreal to coexist. The paintings very easily arouse emotion in the viewer, linking the artist’s spiritual world and one’s own individual memories. These autobiographical scenes depict the artist’s domestic life throughout his period in both China and the USA.

* The set menu changes by weekly

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DECEM BER 2017 | 7 1

ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

The Enchanted World of Comics

With Christmas just around the corner, it’s a perfect time to visit the Batcat & Toys Museum Thailand Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

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s Christmas is now just around the corner it’s the perfect time to visit the Batcat & Toys Museum Thailand, and take a trip into a world of comics, toys, and cartoons—bringing with it not only joy for the kids, but also fond memories to most adults. The museum is located in an insignificant corner of town, at the top of Ramkhamhaeng Boulevard, a few metres away from the Mall Bangkapi. It’s an area where only the cars and advertising images bring a welcome touch of colour to an enclave of grayish concrete buildings from the 80s and 90s. But here stands one of the most intriguing museum collections in the city. In

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a building that looks a bit like a garage is crammed some 50,000 toys and objects related to comic characters. If you want to remember Super Mario, Ironman, The Simpsons, Doremon, Superman, and more classic comic book characters, then this place is made for you. There’s even a special area dedicated to all the characters of the Star Wars movie series. bangkok101.com

museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

The collection of several thousand objects is impressive, and some are actually rare memorabilia dating back to the late 50s and early 60s. And even more amazing are the human-size sculptures of some of the superheroes—from a giant Ultraman standing at the museum’s entrance, to a waiting Spiderman, an angry Hulk and characters from the film Avatar. The museum opened its doors in 2012, and claims to be the largest and most unique collection of toys related to comic super heroes in Asia. And even if this assertion is hard to verify, the place definitely has the largest collection of Batman objects in Asia. The caped crusader, along with his friends and various supervillains, occupy two entire rooms of the museum. Large human-scale statues are one of the highlights of this collection, so prepare to get up close and personal with Batman, the Joker, the Penguin, the Riddler, and Two-Face. Passion is largely what motivated owner Somchai Nitimongcolchai to open the museum. He is well known in the comic collector world, and was even part of a series of portraits in a 2013 Japanese documentary in which he was profiled as the biggest Batman memorabilia collector. Meanwhile, the pièce de résistance of the collection is the full scale model of the famous Batmobile, which has been—for more than 75 years—crisscrossing the streets of Gotham City. While most of the toys on display here are part of the collection, there are a few toys at the museum entrance room for sale. There’s also a small coffee shop in which to recover from the emotion of meeting so many superheroes in such a small space. bangkok101.com

NOTE: To reach the museum, drive up to the Ramsalee area at the end of Ramkhamhaeng Road. The museum is at the corner at Srinakarin, a few metres away from the shopping complex The Mall Bangkapi. By public transport, the closest Airport Rail Link station is Hua Mak. Admission is B100 for Thais, B250 for non-Thais.

Batcat & Toys Museum Thailand 3702 Srinakarin Rd. Open: Tue-Sun, 9am-5pm Tel: 02 375 9006 www.facebook.com/batcat.museum

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ART & CULTURE | cinema scope

Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott

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rom its humble beginnings as a celebration of Southeast Asian cinema, the Luang Prabang Film Festival (LPFF) has grown into a well-known and important forum for regional film professionals to network internationally and get their films seen by a larger audience. This year marks the 8th edition of this annual event, which runs from December 8th to the 13th. Founded in 2009 by American-born Gabriel Kuperman, the LPFF is a not-for-profit project that fosters cross-cultural dialogue within the region and supports the burgeoning film industry in both Laos and the greater ASEAN region. By identifying great curators, with inside understanding of their community’s film scene, LPFF is able to produce a unique programme that ensures the inclusion of the strongest voices from across Southeast Asia. Official selections are made by experts and critics from across Southeast Asia— referred to as ‘Motion Picture Ambassadors’—and the final roster of movies to be screened represents a carefully chosen collection of what they believe to be the finest contemporary films from their respective countries.

represented by the film Rina 2, a co-production with Laos. At last year’s festival Cambodia made a strong impression—the absolutely riveting documentary Cambodian Son won the ‘Audience Choice Award’—and this year there are three films to look forward to from that nation’s burgeoning film industry. Another growing film industry can be found in The Philippines, which has six titles in competition (the most films in the 2017 line-up, after Thailand). In addition to the feature film screenings, LPFF will also have four programmes of short films, four public discussion forums, a Talent Lab for Southeast Asian filmmakers led by the Tribeca Film Institute (TFI), and a documentary production workshop. If you’ve never attended the LPFF it is a truly oneof-a-kind event. The fact that all screenings and related activities are free and open to the public makes it a very unique and wonderfully inclusive event. In addition, the presence of the directors, producers, and/or actors at almost every post-film Q&A at the official LPFF day screening venue—located in a traditional raised wooden house on the grounds of the Sofitel Luang Prabang hotel—means you really get to know the back story of each film. Finally, add the that the beauty and laid back ambience of Luang Prabang itself (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and you’ve got the best holiday destination a cinephile could ask for. For more details on specific screenings, as well as information on how to plan your trip, visit the official website at: www.lpfilmfest.org.

Cemetery of Splendour

WHERE TO STAY

As it has the most active film industry of all the Southeast Asian nations, it’s not surprising that Thailand has the most films in this year’s line-up. Among the one dozen films from these shores are such titles as: Bad Genius; By the Time it Gets Dark; Cemetery of Splendour; The Couple; Heart Attack; In My Hometown; The Island Funeral; Legend of the Broken Sword; Railway Sleepers; Snap; and Wandering. Thailand is also the focus of this year’s ‘Spotlight’ programme, with a full day of programming devoted to screenings and discussion of Thai feature films. Kong Rithdee—LPFF’s Motion Picture Ambassador for Thailand, and a film critic for the Bangkok Post—will act as the programme’s host, leading post-screening Q&As and a public discussion. Among the movies screening in this special programme is the 1954 film Santi-Vina, which was recently restored for a screening at ‘Cannes Classics’ in 2016. Meanwhile, the other nine ASEAN nations are all present in this year’s festival, even Brunei which is

HOTEL SOFITEL LUANG PRABANG This century-old colonial mansion is the official partner hotel of the LPFF, making it ground zero for much of the festival activity. Staying in one of the 25 elegant villa suites—ranging in size from spacious to palatial—means you’ll be close to all the action. www.sofitel.com

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BELLERIVE BOUTIQUE HOTEL With charm to spare, this centrally located riverfront property features three beautifully preserved colonial style houses, offering 13 accommodations in five different room categories. All rooms are furnished in an elegant mix of traditional Lao and contemporary design. Meanwhile, the hotel’s terrace restaurant overlooks the river and makes for an ideal breakfast spot. Highly recommended. www.thebellerive.com

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music makers | ART & CULTURE

Reticent Music Man Singer-songwriter Alyn is one of Bangkok’s best new artists By Rianka Mohan

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s American President Theodore Roosevelt wrote to a friend, in the context of geopolitics, “Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far.” Yet, oddly, that phrase comes to mind when I consider musician James Alyn Wee. In person Wee, who goes by the stage name Alyn, is an introspective man of few words. But get him behind a mic and the artist comes into his own with a voice that won’t be denied. But don’t just take my word for it; check out his versions of The 1975 song “Somebody Else” and Kodaline’s “High Hopes” online, as well as his original singles, like “Till the End of Time” and “Lighter”, among others. Then, of course, there are his Thai hits. He’s been named by many a music blog as one of the more promising talents on the Thai music scene. Alyn’s YouTube channel is peppered with gushing comments like “I’m addicted to your voice”, and given their similarly sculpted curl-centric hairdos, plausible comparisons to Matt Healy, lead singer of The 1975—a band Alyn loves and frequently covers. And the Thai native who is all of 23 years old right now is only getting started. We meet early on a breezy morning at his condo on Sukhumvit because, as he politely mentions, he’s got classes later. Alyn is currently finishing his degree at Bangkok University and is set to graduate in 2018, the coincidental year that will also see him release his debut album, which is a compilation of original music—six songs in Thai, and six in English. His new album promises to be more upbeat than his previous output and may feature other artists including Thai pop singer Cnan Natthaporn. At our meeting Alyn is dressed in black, with his trademark oval spectacles casually perched on his lean face, and despite seeming to have just awoken he’s poised in his presence. I recall that he used to be a model, having been scouted by an agency in his teens. Alyn also acted in and produced original music for a Thai TV musical comedy when he was 18 years old. But he exhibits none of the brash swagger that one would associate with someone discovered young. Instead he approaches each question with great humility and seriousness, steering clear of even a semblance of self-promotion. His earliest influence, he says, is his father who’s also a musician. Inspired, Alyn taught himself to play the guitar at bangkok101.com

13 years old, singing with his family, which progressed to him forming a band in high school and taking on the role of lead vocalist and songwriter at the age of 15. Curiously he never underwent formal vocal training or music lessons, preferring to be self-taught, which is remarkable given his ability to maintain a distinctive texture to his voice and make tricky songs from seasoned chart-topping singers like Zayn Malik and Ed Sheeran, his own. “I always felt that if someone else told me what to do and how to play, my art would lose its authenticity,” he explains. “So I relied on YouTube videos for the basics, and then advice from my dad and other musicians that I worked with.” The determination to retain artistic control also led him to create his own music label, Links Music (together with his family), to build his unique brand and put out music as an independent artist without feeling pressured to be beholden to other people’s demands or timetables. Like some of his peers, he relies on YouTube to distribute his music, and it has won him a diverse fanbase—both Thai and non-Thai. He attributes the initial buzz to his appearances on the popular BILLbilly01 YouTube channel, partnering with Billy Chuchat, who will produce some of Alyn’s upcoming songs. If their past collaborations are anything to go by, this new album could be just the “big stick” to propel his burgeoning career into stardom. www.alynwee.com

ROCK FOR ROHINGYA Thai rock star Hugo is hosting a benefit concert in support of Rohingya refugees on December 19th, from 7pm till 11pm at Thammasat University. Proceeds will go to help the charity Children on the Edge and provide urgent supplies, access to clean food and water, and safe environments for at-risk children. Performing artists include Nga Caravan, Hugo, and Mai Siplor. At B200, the tickets are a steal and you’ll be supporting a great cause! www.facebook.com/events/1920839474599518

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Art & Culture Photo Feature

The Royal Crematorium of KING RAMA IX Photos by Richard Barrow www.richardbarrow.com

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n October 26th, 2017, the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej was cremated in a Royal Funeral procession that spared no expense (according to Reuters, US$90 million dollars was allocated to the proceedings). Of course, a lavish funeral was to be expected for this much-loved monarch who was viewed as a beacon of stability and peacemaker in a nation that went through so much change since his coronation on May 5th, 1950. The creation of the Royal Crematorium enlisted the talents of the nation’s top artisans—ranging from sculptors, to painters, to craftsman—who spent over 10 months building the spectacular monument on the Royal Lawn (also known as Sanam Luang) in front of Bangkok’s Grand Palace. The key focus here is the open-air pavilion where His Majesty’s Royal Urn was set ablaze. It rises 50 metres, and represents Mount Meru—the sacred afterlife and centre of the Hindu

universe, where the spirits of Thai royals are believed to retreat when they leave this earthly realm. On November 2nd, a few days after the five day funeral proceedings concluded, the public were invited into the grounds of the Royal Crematorium to see this grand artistic masterpiece up close. At press time the exhibition was slated to run only until November 30th but this may change due to public demand. Blogger Richard Barrow visited the site during the first few days of public access, and his photographs reveal the exquisitely crafted artworks and sculptures—including life-size depctions of Khun Thongdang and Khun Jo Cho, the late King's favourite pet dogs—that adorn the site. There are also interesting public exhibits that give insight into the late King's works and his commitment to help improve the plight of his subjects. This includes a specially planted rice field which underscores His Majesty's lifelong interest in agricultural projects.

Top: Chef Martin Blunos, Below: Sticky lamb shoulder

| FOOD & DRINK

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eastin grande welcomes new signature restaurant On December 17th the EASTIN GRAND HOTEL SATHORN will unveil BLUNOS, its brand new signature restaurant (taking over the spot previously held by Luce, on the hotel’s 14th floor). The kitchen at this poolside resto is helmed by MARTIN BLUNOS, whose UK restaurant Lettonie was awarded two Michelin stars. With his trademark walrus moustache and friendly demeanour, this talented chef—who has appeared on TV shows such as Iron Chef UK, and MasterChef Australia—promises Bangkok diners hearty fare and classic comfort food devoid of any pretentiousness, yet made with the most delectable ingredients and prepared with a masterful touch. Signature specialties include: The Fisherman (an eclectic seafood platter containing salmon mousse, rollmop herring, poached whitefish, prawns, mussels and more); slow-cooked sticky lamb shoulder; and pork belly with chick peas. www.facebook.com/eastingrandsathorn

thai-licious journey season two Celebrity chef ANDY RICKER was the guest of honour at a media dinner in Bangkok recently, having just wrapped filming Season Two of the popular THAI-LICIOUS JOURNEY web series, produced by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT). Ricker is one of the USA’s most celebrated Thai cuisine chefs—he’s behind the hugely successful Pok Pok restaurants in both Portland and New York—and is the first ‘Amazing Thailand Culinary Ambassador’. His web series is part of the TAT’s increasing focus on gastronomy tourism, and focuses on trying a variety of Thai cuisine throughout the kingdom. In the soon-to-be-released second season Andy travels to Chanthaburi, Trat, and Chumphon, along with co-host DANIEL FRASER (of Smiling Albino Tour company), but for now, you can still catch Season One at the link below. www.bit.ly/ThaiLiciousJourney

variety is the spice of life Over on Thong Lor Soi 10, the newly refurbished FOODTOPIA indoor community ​food hall—on the 1st floor of the popular OPUS BUILDING—is open and ready for business. Grab a seat at one of the tables in the central area and order from any one of the delicious new restaurants on hand. Enjoy fabulous Middle Eastern food from THE KEBABRY, Italian fare at OSTERIA, thick juicy burgers from SMOKIN’ PATTY, authentic Thai dishes at HO RA PA, and inventive culinary creations from SEA TRUFFLES SEAFOOD BAR (their spiced Cobia—black Kingfish—is divine). And don’t forget to wash it down with a refreshing craft beer (or two) from TORST.

motorcycle food tour If you’re a foodie with a “taste” for adventure, the new MOTORBIKE FOOD ADVENTURE & AMAZING NIGHT MARKET TOUR should satisfy your craving on both fronts. During the course of the evening your very own well-trained motorcycle driver takes you to five off-the-tourist-radar dining spots and night food markets—a great way to experience a Bangkok unaffected by the presence of too many tourists. Enjoy Isaan hot pot, congee, the best fried chicken in town, and more. The tour ends at the Talad Rod Fai Ratchada, a photogenic night market with a lively music scene. Prices start from B2,400, and the 4.5-hour jaunt, organized by BANGKOK FOOD TOURS, gets underway at 6:30pm. www.bangkokfoodtours.com

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DECEM BER 2017 | 85

FOOD & DRINK | christmas meal deals

Celebrate Christmas Eve at the Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn

Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok | 33/1 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 210 8100 | www.eastingrandsathorn.com Celebrate Christmas Eve at the Glass House restaurant, with a dinner packed full of delicious food and magical memories. The international buffet offers highlights such as: premium seafood on ice including Alaskan king crab legs, snow crabs, sea crabs, river prawns and New Zealand mussels; pan-seared foie gras, a traditional roast turkey and roast ham station; grilled rock lobsters; crispy duck legs with orange and lemon sauce; lobster bisque; an international cheese selection; and a dessert corner to die for! Priced at B2,000 (add selected adult beverages for B2,300/B2,600).

The House on Sathorn’s Festive Turkey Takeaway Set

W Bangkok Hotel | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 | www.wbangkok.com Too busy to cook a full Christmas Day festive meal? Then take advantage of The House on Sathorn’s divinely delicious Festive Turkey Dinner Takeaway Set, available for Christmas from December 23-25. Let Chef Fatih and his skillful team create a wonderful festive dinner for you and all your loved ones, featuring a mouthwatering traditional roasted turkey along with all the fixings. The entire meal is priced at B9,900++ per set. Orders can be picked up at The House on Sathorn and customers are advised to order a minimum of two days prior to pick up.

Holiday Hampers and Turkey Dinners from Anantara Siam

Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel | 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 | siam-bangkok.anantara.com Until December 31st, get your festive hamper from Mocha & Muffins, filled with specialties of the season to tempt all ages. These pretty baskets are filled with such delightful season treats as: homemade German stollen; Italian Panettone; chocolate pralines; tins of soft nougat; Oolong or Twinings tea; and much, much more. Festive hampers start at B2,900 and you can add any items you like from the special hamper menu. Moreover, take home a full roasted turkey with all the trimmings for only B12,000. This lavish fully-prepared Christmas dinner will feed between 6 and 8 people.

Festive Afternoon Tea at The Hanuman Bar

Siam Kempinski Hotel | 991/9 Rama I Rd. Tel: 02 162 9000 | www.kempinski.com/bangkok/siam-kempinski The Hanuman Bar, in the lobby of the Siam Kempinski hotel, unveils The Festive Afternoon Tea set—the creation of Executive Pastry Chef Frank Braun. Inspired by European winter recipes, it features assorted traditional sweet and savoury items served as guests enjoy the sounds of live jazz music. Highlights include: Dresdner marzipan stollen; Monte Bianco with mulled wine pear; and turkey and chestnut pot pie. Priced at B850 per person (B1,180 including sparkling wine, B1,750 including champagne). Available from 2pm till 5pm daily until January 5th, 2018.

The St. Regis Elegant Holiday Hampers

The St. Regis Bangkok | 159 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 207 7777 | www.stregisbangkok.com/hamper2017 The St. Regis Holiday Hampers have arrived! This most refined gift is packaged in a traditional traveling trunk, wrapped with a finely crafted faux-crocodile skin pattern, and sporting silver locks and studs. Order your Luxury Hamper, or choose from a wide variety of indulgent à-la-carte options to give your hampers the personal touch. The classic B7,000 Luxury Hamper is a connoisseur’s selection of indulgent and festive items, including: Christmas stollen, Christmas fruit cake, gingerbread house, chocolate truffles, cheese selection; chocolate Santa Claus, cinnamon palmier, and a St. Regis teddy bear.

Traditional Spanish Paella at Uno Mas

Centara Grand at CentralWorld | 999/99 Rama I Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 | www.centarahotelsresorts.com When you think of Spanish paella, you probably imagine a big bowl of saffron-infused rice with generous heaps of vegetables, meat, and seafood. However, that’s actually not particularly traditional. So this month Uno Mas presents four different types of traditional paella, including: Paella Valenciana (free-range baby chicken and seafood); Paella de Mariscos (with lobster, carabineros, and mussels); Arros Negre (black squid ink rice with prawns and squid); and Paella dels Pirineus (seasonal mushrooms, Iberico pork, Catalan sausage, and truffle). Dishes are priced between B1,850 and B3,200.

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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK

The Jury Picks Jake

Head Chef Jake Kellie, from Singapore’s acclaimed Burnt Ends restaurant, is chosen as the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018, Southeast Asia Regional Final

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n October 23rd this year the announcement was made that the winner of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Southeast Asia Regional Final had been chosen. Following a day of outstanding performances, by ten of Southeast Asia’s most talented rising kitchen stars, Jake Kellie from Singapore’s Burnt Ends restaurant won the prestigious competition in a unanimous decision. He will now go on to represent the region at the global finals in Milan. With his ‘Aged Pigeon’ signature dish (pictured, bottom right), this Australian-born chef finished ahead of nine other contenders, who came to the competition representing such SE Asian countries as Indonesia, Maldives, India, and Malaysia. There were also two competitors from Thailand, namely Ployumporn Ar-Yucharoen, Chef de Partie at the venerable La Scala restaurant at the Sukhothai Hotel Bangkok, and Jim Ophorst, Chef at PRU restaurant at Phuket’s outstanding Trisara resort. bangkok101.com

The competitors were all handselected by ALMA, the world’s leading international educational and training centre for Italian cuisine. Meanwhile, a distinguished jury of chefs tasted and evaluated each of dish based on their adherence to the competition’s five ‘Golden Rules’: ingredients, skill, genius, beauty, and message. Kellie, the 27-year-old champion, started his culinary career in 2011, and quickly became one of the rising chefs in the Australian dining scene. After being termed ‘The Age Young Chef of the Year’ for two consecutive years (2015 and 2016), Jake then relocated to Singapore where he joined the Burnet Ends team. His signature dish conveys his culinary philosophy: simplicity, technique and produce. Choosing to work with his favourite protein, the main star of the dish is undeniably the pigeon that has been aged in pepper leaves, hay and strawberry gum for two weeks. Jake pays homage to his birth country with the use of native

Australian ingredients such as flowers, berries and citrus fruits, and even an eight-year-old fortified wine from South Australia. Richard Ekkebus, Executive Chef of Mandarin Oriental Landmark Hotel in Hong Kong, will be leading Jake Kellie to the Grand Finale as his assigned mentor. “I feel happy and humbled to be representing South East Asia. Chef Richard Ekkebus is a phenomenal chef, and I’m looking forward to learning from him,” remarked an emotional Kellie at the awards ceremony. “I’m in this to represent the region, and also to win. Moving forward, I’ll be perfecting my dish, including bringing more love and care to each component,” By the end of December 2017, a total of 21 Young Chefs will be announced as official finalists, leading up to the Grand Finale in Milan that will take place in May 2018. Exclusive content and updates on S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018 will be published regularly online at: www.sanpellegrino.com. DECEM BER 2017 | 87

FOOD & DRINK | special report

Andoni Luis Aduriz

Renowned Spanish chef comes to Bangkok for two nights only

Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz

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or nearly two decades, Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz has been the creative force behind the marvelous foodie mecca known as Mugaritz. The restaurant, located in the hills outside of San Sebastian—in Spain’s Basque Country—holds two Michelin stars and is currently number nine on the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Among his other accolades Chef Andoni has twice received the coveted ‘Chef’s Choice Award’, bestowed upon him in 2006 and 2012 by fellow World’s 50 Best chefs. Chef Andoni’s early culinary career included work at no less than Catalonia’s legendary El Bulli, the long-time home of Chef Ferran Adrià. In the years since, along with establishing Mugaritz he’s also authored or contributed to more than 20 books on cookery. The capricious chef employs a “tech no-emotional” approach—as he calls it—to his cuisine, and uses advanced food technologies to not only produce novel dining pleasure, but likewise to evoke an emotional effect for all guests, ensuring a great experience and complete enjoyment of his gastronomy. This month, for the first time ever, Chef Andoni brings his culinary creativity to Bangkok for two nights only— December 8th and 9th—for a series of dinners hosted by acclaimed Chef Fatih Tutak, Director of Culinary at The House on Sathorn (W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd). The elaborate 13-course dinners will begin at 7:30pm and are priced at B11,500++ per person (add B2,500++ per person for the carefully curated wine pairing package).

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An Oyster’s Frozen Kiss Over the course of the two evenings ‘The Master of Mugaritz’ will be preparing his sometimes mysteriously and whimsically named dishes, including such favourites as: Iberico Ham 2 Montaneras Arturo Sanchez with Acorns and Oaktree Leaves; An Oyster’s Frozen Kiss; 100% Lobster; A Few Minutes for Recreation… The Game at the Table; Egg Yolks Tucked in with a Sea Urchin Blanket; and Whiskey Pie. Chef Fatih, meanwhile, will be on hand bringing his own expertise to the proceedings. He arrived at The House on Sathorn after creating a unique dining experience at The Bellbrook Hong Kong, recognized by the Hong Kong-Macau Michelin Guide 2015. Other stints include the world-renowned restaurant NOMA in Copenhagen, and the 3-Michelin-starred Nihonryori Ryugin in Tokyo. More recently, under his watchful eye, The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn was ranked as one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants (2017). Very limited seats are available for this event, and full prepayment is required. The dinners are being co-presented by the S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna Fine Dining Lovers guest chef series, The House on Sathorn, Turkish Airlines, and Mugaritz restaurant. For more information, or to make your reservation, please visit: www.thehouseonsathorn.com/mugaritz NOTE: In addition to the two gourmet dinners, a very special Masterclass Luncheon with Chef Andoni will take place on December 7th. See the website for details. bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Fridays at Flow

Seafood dinner experience leaves the rest of the weekend jealous

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ou’ve crossed a mighty river, strolled through otherworldly forecourt gardens and majestically vaulted halls of glass and fine fabric, to a place where a brimming cornucopia of flavour-fresh ocean goodness awaits, as the gently rippling waters of the majestic River of Kings flow serenely by. Despite sounding like a journey to Valhalla, Seafood Friday at Flow is a “fruits of the sea” buffet-with-a-view which, as it turns out, is conveniently located at the earthly plane-based Millennium Hilton Bangkok. This impressively diverse spread of top-tier imported crab, oysters, shrimp, and fish is served against the picturesque backdrop of the Chao Praya River, with its procession of gaily-illuminated watercraft plying the current, and reflected city lights dancing on the gently rolling swells.

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Along with seafood, the all-youcan-eat selection (B1,800 net) also includes a sushi/sashimi station, Mediterranean and hot dishes including: Seafood Thermidor with tender-leaf spinach; Oysters Rockefeller; Sea Bass in cream sauce; and a carve-your-share whole Norwiegian Salmon—oven-browned and seasoned just so. And unlike many international dining venues that pander to those unaccustomed to the piquant wonders of local cooking, Flow’s Thai station serves real-deal authentic favourites like grilled chicken, som tam, and fresh pomelo salad—with no punches pulled in the generous use of notoriously potent Thai chillies (it’s clear by virtue of the super-sized som tam mortar that they really mean business!). A dedicated, climate-controlled fromagerie offers a mind boggling

and impressively curated selection of over 50 European cheeses, along with dried fruits and nuts plus crisp breads and flat breads for pairing. We suggest guests take their time visiting this station and avail themselves of the opportunity to explore and sample as many of the often obscure, heritage-quality varieties as their intake capacity will allow… which leads us to a crucial caveat. Amid this teeming plethora of as-much-as-you-want dining delights, guests will face a familiar buffet conundrum: how to achieve a balanced and satisfying ratio of main dishes to afters. This “problem” is particularly acute here, given the voluminous assortment of desserts, including uncountable tarts, cake slices, and tartlets that entice with merciless sweet tooth-teasing allure. And those who find themselves paralysed with indecision over having to choose between an additional main dish sortie, or moving on to the terraced displays of Stollen loaf, fresh figs and cream, and chocolate torte, have Executive Pastry Chef Urs Rohrbach to blame. With well over a decade on the job at the venue, the Swiss bake-meister plays the ovens like a piano in creating this Willy Wonkaesque display of tempting treats, as well as gorgeously-crusted European breads, rolls and buns. As alluded to earlier, getting here is in itself an enjoyable and visually stimulating experience. A complimentary hotel shuttle boat leaves from the Sathorn Pier (below Saphan Taksin BTS station) every 20 minutes for what is a serene, picturesque, and all-to-brief cross-river jaunt. by Chris Michael

Seafood Friday at Flow Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoen Nakhon Rd. Every Friday: 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 442 2000 www3.hilton.com

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STORY SPIRIT “Ruen Urai Sour” The “Ruen Urai Sour” is one of Ruen Urai’s new signature cocktails. This particular beverage is inspired by our own tamarind tree, growing in front of our century-old Thai house. Its fruits give this drink a unique sour flavour. Experience fine Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold”. Open from noon to 11 p.m.

Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Theo Mio

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Classic Italian à la Britannia

s the first-born offspring of London restaurant Theo Randall at the InterContinental—the renowned Italian kitchen that has become one of London’s top fine dining spots in just over a decade of operation—Theo Mio – Italian Kitchen, on the ground floor of the InterContinental Bangkok hotel, delights local diners with the scintillating culinary stylings of namesake founder and British celebrity restaurateur, Chef Theo Randall. Under the able stewardship of Chef d’ Cuisine and London flagship alum Chris Beverley, Theo Mio brings to Bangkok a quartercentury’s worth of experience, along with the dishes and award-winning cooking philosophy that have now transcended the continents. Our evening began with Calamari in Padella (B450), arriving with the sautéed, herbed squid and halved cherry tomatoes topped with fresh rocket. And lying beneath… a ‘hidden treasure’ of tender chickpeas seasoned with cumin. Next was Polpette con Burrata (B400), featuring meatballs in mixed-marriage of blend of Wagyu beef and pork, slow-cooked and served in a tomato and red wine broth—with a slice of bruschetta dolloped with creamy-rich Burrata cheese riding the sideboard. The classically prepared, minimalist simplicity of the Caesar Salad (B425) made for a refreshing respite from the flurry of flavours and mosaic of spices we had thus far enjoyed (and indeed were to still come). Nibbling the salad’s generously thick-shaved Parmesan slices, we took in the airy, stylish dining room that brings to mind a shadedappled lemon tree grove, with a sweeping glass-wall view of Bangkok’s bustling Rajaprasong shopping district at the front. Nearby, the flash of cooking flames, the blur of chopping knives, and brows furrowed in deep concentration may be glimpsed in the open-plan kitchen. Ambience duly absorbed, we

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moved on to the pasta course featuring Taglierini con Aragosta e Chorizo (B725/1,085), with fine gauge, hand-drawn ribbon pasta hosting a spicy soirée of chorizo, salami, herbed tomato, basil and juicy spears of clawmeat lobster. Similarly, the Gnocchi con Porcini, Carciofi e Tartufo (B700) mingles the exquisitely al dente spudnuggets with a butter-porcini sauce, with fresh artichokes and grated black truffle, topped with even more shaved truffle—just because. A decadent departure from the house’s core cuisine, the Controfilleto di Manzo (B1,200) translates as “char-grilled Australian beef sirloin”, here served beautifully seasoned and seductively rare, donning a “green beret” of wild rocket, balsamic and shaved Parmesan. The Selezione di Dolci Theo Mio (B600) is ideal for when you just cannot settle on a choice of dessert. The

generously portioned five-item tasting selection arrived on a rustic wooden plank, and includes a flourless VeronaChocolate Cake, with orange crema di mascarpone. But we were smitten with the exceptionally nutty Almond Tart with strawberries and vanilla cream. Also included is a Panna Cotta with roasted pineapple and lime syrup, Mini Doughnuts with lemon curd, and a classic, richly coffee-infused Tiramisu. And for those with special dietary restrictions, initials in the menu listings indicate the presence of alcohol or pork in particular dishes. by Chris Michael

Theo Mio – Italian Kitchen GF, InterContinental Bangkok hotel 973 Ploen Chit Road Open daily: 11:30am-11:30pm Tel: 02 656 0444 bangkok.intercontinental.com

bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Punjab Grill Bangkok Delicious Northern Indian cuisine served with theatrical flair

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fter successfully taking over India with more than two dozen outlets—and then conquering Singapore, Abu Dhabi, and Jeddah—the popular Indian restaurant franchise Punjab Grill has settled into the ground floor of the Radisson Suites Bangkok Sukhumvit hotel. The interior of the fine dining eatery is devoid of any Indian décor clichés, and instead oozes a speakeasylounge vibe, with exposed walls, dark furniture, dim-lighting, ornate Rajasthani mirrors, and lattice worked wooden panels. A live acoustic band by the bar ties into this theme very well. In an over-saturated market of orange gravies and greasy naans, Punjab Grill brings an element of refinement to Indian food, through presentation, flavours, and cocktailpairings. Weaning our palates to the bangkok101.com

delights of modern Indian cuisine is the brilliant Chef Bharath Bhat—whose resume includes stints with Michelinstarred chefs such as Vineet Bhatia and Atul Kochhar, as well as reputed establishments such as Amal at Armani Hotel Dubai, and Alila Diwa Goa. As is the case with all Punjab Grill franchises, the menu isn’t standardized and this gives Chef Bhat liberty to serve dishes that are familiar to the northern frontier, yet surprising in many ways. We go with the ever popular Non-Vegetarian Tasting Menu (B1,490) which features restaurant signatures based on seasonal ingredients. The first amuse-bouche to arrive is the Avocado Bhel, a popular tangy and sweet Indian street food made with puffed rice crispies, peanuts, and chickpeas, tossed with mint and tamarind chutneys. Here it

is served with an avocado guacamole, yoghurt foam, and potato crisps. Second up, a savoury medley of sweet potato and pomegranate mixed with tangy chutneys and topped with yoghurt snow. The offering comes shrouded in dry ice and makes for a dramatic Instagram click. To go along with this, restaurant manager Ashwani Kumar starts us off with an Indian-inspired cocktail, the Imli Passion Infusion (B295). It’s a zesty drink made using tamarind, passion fruit, Kaffir lime and tequila—served with a stuffed puff-pastry and a syringe with spiced tamarind water. Next arrives a mixed platter consisting of Ajwani jheenga—prawn in marinated in yoghurt, red chilies, and carom seeds, with a raw mango green chilli chutney—alongside a soft, melt-in-your-mouth Fish Tikka with mint and coriander chutney and, lastly, Malai Chicken Tikka, poultry chunks marinated with cheese and spices, served with apricot and jalapeno chutney. Soon after we dive into our main, Salli Botti. Chef Bhat ditches the traditional lamb cubes, for New Zealand lamb racks that are cooked to perfection, and serves it with saffron rice and Dal Makhani, a rich and creamy soup made with black lentils. This we paired with the Rasa (B295), an Indian whiskey-based cocktail. We mark the end of our culinary journey with the signature Chocolate Sphere dessert. The Cointreau and hot chocolate flambé when poured over a melting chocolate ball centered with saffron and pistachio ice-cream is yet another offering from Chef Bhat that is both theatrical and extremely indulgent. by Reena Karim

Punjab Grill Bangkok

Radisson Suites Bangkok Sukhumvit 23/2-3, Sukhumvit Soi 13 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm Tel: 02 645 4952 www.punjabgrillbangkok.com DECEM BER 2017 | 93

FOOD & DRINK | review

Basil

Well-made Thai regional classics to savour against an elegant backdrop

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ven I have to admit it, the phrase “authentic Thai” has been overplayed. Because the simple fact is, that it is almost impossible to account for the vast sprawling array of regional flavours and styles—or so I’ve always believed. However, Basil restaurant, located in the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok hotel, manages to gracefully accomplish this feat, all the while educating your palette and creating an altogether memorable experience. The venue itself is just pure elegance. The muted, earthy tones and plush furnishings craftily marry the pomp and fanfare of hotel chic with all the safe comforts of casual fine dining. And, with the addition of private rooms available for larger parties, it’s not hard to see why the place was booked out and thriving by the time we’d been seated and ordered. The concept behind the set menu is simple. Guests can choose which of the four distinct regions of Thailand they’d like to try, and take that journey in eight courses. Prices start from B1,500 all the way through to B1,800. Portions are generous here, and 94 | DECEM BER 2017

you’re taken on a degustation journey from the heavily Muslim influenced meaty dishes of the Southern regions of Thailand, through to the infamous fiery heights of the Northeastern area of Thailand (aka: Isaan). Although there were a few well known classics on the list, for the most part the menu included quite a fair array of dishes that would no doubt pique the interest of even the most seasoned local. The Lanna (Northern Thai) starter of Yum Gai Sai Haoplee, or steamed chicken with banana blossom, was a surprise. Thoroughly spiced, this unique herb paring came with a kick that silenced the table, as we tried to decipher its content. This contrasted immensely with the Yum Pollomai Pal Muk, or spicy tropical fruit salad with grilled baby octopus, from the ‘Gulf of Thailand’ sharing menu. It delivered a salty sweetness that left tongues salivating in anticipation for the mains. Of course, the Lanna region’s Deep Fried River Prawn was the show-stopper. Its rich, unctuous sauce and diced vegetables leap out at you, demanding reverence. The Phad Straw Goong, or bitter bean with prawn,

rounded up the mains swimmingly with its aromatic bitterness. This was paired with a Vada Gimlet (B350), an excellent gin and lemongrass number from the bar. From their regular menu, the piquant, fresh and flavorful Koy Tuna (B430) was just wonderful. After only one bite in, I understood why this balance of tangy, salty, and heat remains the restaurant’s most sought after dish. However, by the time the beautifully arranged desserts tray came round to present the traditional selection of after dinner sweets, I was thoroughly stuffed. I could only just find room for the delectable Coconut Creme Brûlée—and, naturally, the plate was licked clean. Journeys such as this are worth the travel. by Zipporah Gene

Basil

1F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Open: Mon-Fri, noon-2:30pm; daily, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 649 8366 www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Red Sky

Stunning vistas plus lavish cuisine equals one unforgettable NYE dinner

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ew Year’s Eve is one of the most anticipated nights of the year, but the high expectations often result in watching TV, bored on the sofa, or being crammed in a noisy overcrowded bar. However, the lavish prix fixe 8-course Gala Dinner (B15,555++ per person) at Red Sky, paired with uninterrupted panoramas of the city from the 55th-storey rooftop of the Centara Grand at CentralWorld hotel, offers a sophisticated alternative for welcoming 2018 in style. The décor is chic and modern, while also providing spacious seating for ultimate comfort and relaxation. Although diners have the option of eating indoors, the open-air wooden deck—illuminated by the restaurant’s signature red neon arch, as well as 96 | DECEM BER 2017

the glittering lights of the surrounding cityscape—is the premier spot for a truly memorable dining experience. At the drinks-only upper level, guests can take in the 360° view from a higher vantage point, and enjoy one of the bar’s creative trademark cocktails. It also offers the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable NYE photo-op. Yet Red Sky is more than just good looks. Head Chef Christian Ham crafts a tasteful set menu of highquality meat and seafood dishes that skew towards traditional European fare with a twist—and all with fine dining flavour and artful presentation. We begin with an amuse-bouche of vegetable soup served in a small glass and accompanied by a bread basket. This is followed by the second course of Russian Oscietra Caviar, wherein

the roe, garnished over bread and classic condiments, pop on the tongue, boasting a rich, slightly sweet taste that is surprisingly not very fishy. Next is a French Erquy scallop paired with deliciously fatty bone marrow, bringing out the earthy flavour of the accompanying white Alba truffle. In the same course is also the Hokkaido scallop carpaccio that is amazing in both texture and taste. You can never go wrong with foie gras, and the pan-fried duck liver of the subsequent course, complemented with gingerbread, red cabbage, and cranberries, is perfectly cooked until slightly crispy on the outside, while the interior is delicately rich and buttery soft. This course also includes a confit of quail and foie gras, and the meltin-your-mouth taste is enhanced by the layered intensity of the Madeira sauce and apricot chutney. The last of the appetizers arrives in the form of a puff pastry filled with savoury Brittany blue lobster and mild veal sweetbread, while the subtle nuance of cognac highlights the overall flavour of the dish. G.H. Mumm champagne whets our palates before we move on to the main course—a choice of Wagyu beef fillet or pan-fried turbot. I chose the fillet, which was tender, though perhaps not rare enough for my taste, but was perfectly garnished with salty and comforting porcini parmentier. Lastly, the gala dinner concludes with the Pavlova Surprise, chestnut and blackcurrant mousse protected by a crispy meringue shell covered in cream and raspberries—a perfect cap to an unforgettable evening. by Allison Nicole Smith

Red Sky

55F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama I Rd. NYE Special: Dec. 31st from 7pm-2am Tel: 02 100 6255, ext 5502 www.centarahotelsresorts.com/redsky bangkok101.com

SALMON SOUVLAKI

Every weekend AVRA's chef offers authentic Greek dishes for a true Mediterranean affair. It’s not only about good food–it’s about the people, the celebratory atmosphere and the famous Greek hospitality.

Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit Sukhumvit Soi 33, Bangkok Call us on: 02 258 2877

avrabkk.com AVRA Greek Restaurant

AVRA Greek Restaurant Avra Greek Restaurant brings the warmth and charm of Greece to Bangkok. From the moment you enter AVRA, the greek tradition of old-world taverna hospitality surrounds you: welcoming staff, an impressively expansive menu that includes all the perennial favourites prepared with thoughtful touches and wine flows.

FOOD & DRINK | review

Freebird

Adventurous, perfectly executed dishes showcase ‘Modern Australian Cuisine’

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here are some places that are so daring, that you really have to marvel at the level of creativity one would have to have to even envision it all in the first place. Nestled at the top end of Sukhumvit Soi 47, Freebird is just such a venue, and in the ever-growing homogenous world of fine dining they offer a menu that showcases ‘Modern Australian Cuisine’. The interiors and styling alone deserve an article all to themselves. Signature eye-catching pieces abound—rustic wooden exposures, and murals the likes of which belong in a gallery. It’s got a look and feel like no other. And in a city starved of greenery and any semblance of true alfresco garden-culture, the sheer lushness of the rear garden is worth getting overexcited about. Expecting the usual saccharinfuelled mocktails, the aptly named Strawberry Finch (B220) was a fantastic and surprising palette opener to the night. Sweet, herby, sharp but light, what began as a conservative effort to restrain myself swiftly became a hunger to sample as much as possible of their drinks menu—so much so, that I began to covet my

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guest’s aromatically spiced—and more potent—Logan Rye (B340). Unsure of what “modern Australian cuisine” actually entails, it was only fitting to try their lauded ‘A Taste of Freebird’ (B1,750). Comprised of about 10 dishes, this tasting menu serves not only as a delicious introduction, but also a chance for executive Chef Top Russel to flex his culinary might. As the unsung hero of any starter, dips are rarely given the proper nod that they deserve. After sampling both the devilishly fluffy crispness of the charcoal crackers with Piquillo peppers, and the smoked romanesco, hummus, and mentiko sour cream with toasted ciabatta, I had abandoned the ability to properly use cutlery. Fingers were in. Stunned by the fresh saltiness of the oysters served in a tangy but risqué ponzu and yuzu kosho, and the baby beets with smoked ricotta foam—a merry-go-round of textures and flavours—I began to understand why this restaurant was so popular. Then, out came the sashimi of scallops with granite wasabi. On paper, it’s hard to imagine how any of the ingredients would have worked

together, but swirling in my mouth it was hard to imagine why they haven’t always gone together. And these were only the starters. You don’t have to be a mycophile to adore the hen’s egg, local mushrooms, and Australian brie. The duck breast, my favourite of the night, was flavour incarnate. Crispy and pink, but bursting with umami, with a perfectly executed plum sauce. The salted hake, lime, and miso butter with cauliflower was simply just showing off, but the perfection that was the Blackmore Wagyu tartare came at some point but I was beyond saving— having already fallen deep into a food fueled intoxication. Desserts were just as unforgiving with the Japanese garden inspired green tea mousse, and chocolate ganache with mochi delivering the final blow. by Zipporah Gene

Freebird Restaurant Bangkok 28, Sukhumvit Soi 47 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Weekend brunch: 11am-3pm Tel: 02 662 4936 www.facebook.com/freebirdbkk

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FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread with Andrew Dickie

Meet a gourmet grill man serving up steaks in a rich bachelor’s penthouse pad

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icture a dashing half-Thai, half-British bachelor in his mid-30s, who lives in a stunning penthouse apartment in downtown Sukhumvit decorated with eclectic artefacts he has collected from his world travels. He’s also an avid vintage motorcycle fan who loves to explore the world and invite his friends over for relaxed drinks and dinner, with spectacular city views through fulllength windows from the 34th floor. At The Penthouse Bar and Grill, in the recently opened Park Hyatt 10 0 | DECEM BER 2017

Bangkok hotel—located in the luxury Central Embassy mall—customers are provided with an experience to make it seem as though this aforementioned “fictional” character actually exists. In turn, the design concept here is out of this world stunning. The restaurant space, cocktail bar, and what has to be the coolest looking whisky room in the city, create their own world, and the effect is dizzyingly wonderful. Playing the lead role in the kitchens in this restaurant narrative, and dictating how the menu is

received by its audience of lunch and dinner diners, Chef de Cuisine Andrew Dickie. The Canadian-British cook trained in iconic restaurants like celebrity-favourites Nobu and Sketch in London, before moving into hospitality and hotel restaurants. In real life, it is Chef Andrew who is the globetrotter and his career has taken him to some of the top restaurants in Europe, North America, North Africa, the Middle East, and the South Pacific, before landing him in Southeast Asia in 2017. bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

The Grill features an open grill kitchen where steaks and other meaty morsels sizzle succulently. The menu also features glorious seafood dishes such as Canadian lobster. For Chef Andrew the focus is on putting quality meats on the grill. “I’m really product-driven,” he states. “I believe in good steak, cooked well. We’re not trying to catch onto the next trend and you won’t see any foams here. There’s nothing wrong with these techniques, but only the best places can use them properly. What you see is what you get at The Grill and I think with so many restaurant choices there’s something appealing about the simplicity of creating amazing flame-grilled flavours with great charcoal cooking.” In the evening, the steak menu is extended, whilst the lunch menu serves up more salads, pastas, and burgers. The atmosphere too is more laid-back during the day. With a twocourse set lunch for under B1,000, as well as a three-course lunch, and à la carte option as well, The Grill is absolutely a foodie-must for the corporate business-lunch crowd close to Ploen Chit. It is already gathering a word-of-mouth reputation for offering good quality, well priced menus. As bangkok101.com

Chef Andrew points out, the grill formula just works. “This style of cuisine is timeless and it’s never going to go out of style,” he adds. “Good steak and grilled meats are always going to be popular. I stick within this grill concept, but I do add in some touches from my travels, such as sumac spice to create extra flavour or my own interpretation of a Stroganoff, using Wagyu beef cheeks.” What has to be applauded is that unlike so many restaurants in Bangkok, The Grill is not trying to masquerade as fine-dining. The burgers are good, but they do not contain flecks of edible gold and are not topped with caviar. The toasted bun and homemade patty are tasty though, and whilst you can order duck fat fried potato wedges as a side, even mid-end eateries of this calibre should be making their own fries. The Grill can hold its own in the Bangkok dining scene, and as a hotel restaurant is in a high-class league, according to Chef Andrew. “Back in the day, hotel restaurants were often viewed negatively but today, especially in Bangkok, these restaurants are the top dining brands and are pulling in the customers. For me, running a place like The Grill at such a dynamic hotel as the Park Hyatt

means I’m involved in so much more than cooking.” The onion soup with caramelized onions and Comte cheese is hearty rather than sophisticated; perhaps revealing even our imaginary bachelor enjoys a bowl of comfort food from time to time. It may be rare to critique the crockery, especially when the portions are perfect, but the small bowls and bread plates are not as showy as the décor and design flair of The Grill and perhaps could do with being given a style makeover. The three-course set lunch includes dessert, one of which is a creamy lemon tart with a caramelized top and fresh blueberries. Not too indulgently decadent, the sweet dish balances with the rest of the menu, leaving diners feeling sated without feeling overly stuffed. A steak connoisseur, Chef Andrew’s advice to customers who rarely stray beyond the softness of Wagyu is, “don’t be afraid to chew! Texture is good! Personally, I love a juicy, well-seasoned ribeye, grilled medium-rare, with a green salad and a good glass of red!” interview by Nadia Willan

bangkok.park.hyatt.com DECEM BER 2017 | 101

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

Ar-Simp Padthai

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he endless food adventure that is Bangkok contains so many hidden gems in so many different areas. Often the convenience of taking the BTS Skytrain leads me to discover new things, yet at the same time, it occasionally whisks me right past other discoveries. Case in point is the BTS stop just after the Siam interchange station— BTS Ratchathewi. It’s a part of town I have rarely explored in the past, but it has become a fun and meaningful area to me now because of the local food stands that are mostly catering to the office people who work, and transit, around this area. Jumping off at this station, I hop on a motorcycle taxi for a short glide into Soi Phaya Nak. This connecting soi joins with other alleys that all lead to Petchaburi Soi 10. Amusingly, I don’t even need to give directions on how to get to my destination, Ar-Simp Padthai, as the mortorcycle taxi guys all know so well where I should hop off after a quick ride. The decades-old, original shophouse that Ar-Simp Padthai now operates in was once the shop of the restaurateur’s Thailand-Chinese grandfather, where he sold linoleum mats and other miscellaneous kitchen

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 102 | DECEM BER 2017

items in the days of yore. After he passed away, their grandmother started to cook the family’s Padthai recipe, and proudly turned the kitchen shop into a little restaurant. Now P’Joy (2nd generation) and her son (3rd generation), are working side-by-side on mastering their Padthai and other dishes. P’Joy is now orchestrating the kitchen, while her son—who has loved cooking and helping her since he was a child—cooks most of the actual dishes. She says his cooking skills match well with their family’s recipe, and her own standards. Hearing this, he briefly looks up from his wok then turns his focus back to the noodles. I grab a seat next to a big group of office workers and order away in one go before the restaurant gets crowded. Kouytiew Khua Kai (fried flat noodle with chicken and egg, topped with crispy dough), khanom Pakkad (fried shredded turnip) and Padthai with shrimp. Everything arrives at the same time. It’s so exciting to smell the variety of dishes all at once! The Padthai doesn’t need any additional seasoning at all; it tastes amazing from the first bite, without even the traditional squeeze of lime. The noodles are wonderfully chewy, sticky and full of taste. Adding texture are little pieces of tofu, peanuts, and crispy beansprouts, and all the flavours

of the various ingredients dance in harmony thanks to the family’s sauce recipe that includes tamarind, and palm sugar that is made from coconut nectar. I have them all in one bite with the shrimp that I slice into small pieces from the generous serving size. The Kouytiew Khua Kai is also lovely. I like it with both chicken and Pla Meuk Krob (dried cuttlefish soaked in baking soda), which complement the delectable fried noodles and sauce. Meanwhile, the Khanom Pakkad requires a bit of a special palate to understand and appreciate. Basically, it’s a turnip pancake that’s fried in a hot wok with dark sauce. I like the little burnt and crispy texture on the outside, with a soft (birthday) cake-like texture on the inside. Seasoning it with chili vinegar and dry chili gives an extra flavour boost. The other highlight I would recommend is their mango sticky rice. P’Joy is proud of her Kati—real creamy coconut milk (not canned), lovingly spread on top. Her sticky rice is so flavourful too; creamy and lightly sweet, just like the mangoes that she chooses to slice and lay on top. Address: Ar-Simp Padthai can be accessed two ways: via Soi Phayanak from the Ratchathewi BTS Station stop; or via Petchaburi Soi 10. Open daily from 11am till 10:30pm. Tel: 02 215 2819 bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm

signature dishes are serious standouts. 3F, Shangri-La Hotel 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun, 11am-3pm www.shangri-la.com

Silver Waves

A stylish and contemporary Cantonese restaurant with a glorious riverside setting. Try the signature Peking Duck. 36F, Chatrium Riverside Hotel 18 Charoenkrung Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 023 078 888, ext. 1948 www.chatrium.com

Xin Tian Di Shang Palace

Shang Palace

The interior is elegant, but more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the

10 4 | DECEM BER 2017

FRENCH

The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches, and à la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok. 22F, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Tel: 02 632 9000 Open daily: 6pm-10pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am2:30pm, Sun, 11am-2:30pm www.crowneplazabkk.com

Brasserie Cordonnier

Brasserie Cordonnier

Serving exquisite Gallic favourites— from French onion soup to beef bourguignon—this high ceilinged eatery brings hearty and savoury French fare to Bangkok’s hungry hordes. 33/30, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 094 970 8599 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.cordonnierbkk.com

Le Boeuf

The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: high-quality steak liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core.

bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK GF, Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair 60 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 672 12 30 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com

GREEK Avra Greek Restaurant

Rising from the mid-Sukhumvit culinary clutter like a Parthenon of Hellenic delights, this charming eatery offers an impressively expansive menu that includes all the perennial favourites prepared with thoughtful touches. GF, Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit 1 Soi Daengudom, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open: Tue-Fri, noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Sat-Sun, noon-11pm, Mon, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 258 2877 www.avrabkk.com

GERMAN Sühring

German gastronomy comes alive using modern techniques and high-quality

ingredients, while still following traditional flavour profiles. The kitchen is helmed by a pair of identical twin chefs, and the results are like nothing you’ll see anywhere else. 10, Yen Akat Soi 3 Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.facebook.com/suhringshome

Indus

An ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine, featuring a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect while dialling down the stodge and oiliness, a riff on Indian-Chinese—or Himalayan— combinations. 71, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 258 4900 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight www.indusbangkok.com

INDIAN

Bawarchi

Bawarchi

BF, Intercontinental Chidlom 973 Ploenchit Rd, Tel: 02 656 0101-3 1F, Ambassador Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 253 2394 India-Thai Chamber of Commerce Building, Sathorn Soi 1, Tel: 02 677 6249 20/11, Sukhumvit Soi 4, Tel: 02 656 7357 www.bawarchiindian.com

INTERNATIONAL

The kind of curries you’ve been missing— rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious. Check out any one of Bawarchi’s Bangkok four locations.

Bunker

From the outside this three-storey concrete building may look rustic and unfinished; inside however you’ll find

BARBECUE DINNER ON THE TERRACE Bistro M’s Barbecue Dinner & Beer Promotion is back and it’s better than ever! Bring your friends and family to enjoy the breezy winter air of Bangkok at our terrace. Be spoiled with a wide selection of juicy, flavorful meats and high-quality, fresh seafood served direct to your table from the grill! Choose from Australian beef tenderloin to lamb chops, Italian sausages, fillet of sea bass, Hokkaido scallops, tiger prawns with salted butter and more! Pay only THB 899 net per set and you can enjoy 2 choices of meat or seafood, 2 choices of side dish and a glass of draught beer (Singha / Chang) or soft-drink and get 50% discount on the second glass onward!

For more information or reservations, please contact us at Tel. 02-302-5555 Available every Wednesday, from 18.30hrs – 22.00hrs (From Wed 8th Nov 2017 – Wed 31st Jan 2018 Only!)

THB450 NET FROM THB899 NET

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DECEM BER 2017 | 105

FOOD & DRINK | listings contemporary American cuisine with a heavy New York influence being served up. The top-notch ingredients and excellence in execution are really what mark the dishes here. 118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com

and serves quite possibly the best steak in town. Trust us! Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

The Coffee Club

Since 1989 this Australian company has been expanding internationally and now has several branches in Thailand. It offers a friendly and flavourful oasis of calm— whether you just want a latte, an all-day breakfast, or a full and fortifying meal. 1239 Sukhumvit Rd, Tel: 02 381 2736 45 Soi Convent, Tel: 098 250 9047 The Hive at Sukhumvit Soi 49, Tel: 098 250 9042 The Maze at Sukhumvit Soi 55, Tel: 098 250 9051 facebook.com/thecoffeeclubthailand

Eat Me

Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia

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Karmakamet Diner

Although the café style selections are outstanding, the talented kitchen team is also adept at creating some serious fine dining dishes. 30/1 Soi Methi Niwet Tel: 02 262 0700 Open daily: 10am-11:30pm www.karmakametdiner.com

Park Society

Embassy Room

Embassy Room

Ultra-modern and sophisticated, this restaurant features an all-day menu of contemporary European cuisine with a definite Asian flair. 9F, The Park Hyatt Bangkok Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 6am-10:30am, noon-2pm, 6pm-10pm www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this high-altitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus. 29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 624 0000 www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Red Oven

Styled as a ‘World Food Market’, this all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. And on weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet.

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listings | FOOD & DRINK 7F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com

Up & Above

This 24th floor restaurant in the five star Okura Prestige Bangkok hotel boasts a brunch to rival all others—delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: noon-10:30pm Sunday Brunch: noon-3pm www.okurabangkok.com

Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant

Neither an open-air rooftop bar, nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two milieus. Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Opem daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

ITALIAN Biscotti

Serving up authentic Italian fare since the late ‘90s, this staple on the lunchtime roster for suits and their business partners has grown casual enough to warrant a visit by anyone on any day of the week.

Enoteca

Enoteca Italiana Bangkok

Rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, this place is traditional Italian to the bone. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable a la carte and degustation menus to explore. As authentic as it is delicious. 39, Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 258 4386 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.enotecabangkok.com

La Scala

This fine dining Italian gourmet restaurant specializes in classic artistic, chef-style cooking, serving up dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavour. The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: Lunch, 12pm-2:30pm, Dinner, 6:30pm-11pm www.sukhothai.com

JAPANESE Benihana

At the centre of every table is a hot grill, where a chef cooks for you, stimulating appetites with a deft and close-range slicing of onions, zucchini, shrimp, pork, steak—even the fried rice. Avani Atrium Bangkok, 1880 Petchaburi Rd. Tel: 02 718 2023 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.avanihotels.com

Shintori

If you’re looking for a dinner that will impress on all fronts, the combination here of a thrilling setting and equally exciting food, is hard to beat. 18F, Zen World@Central World Tel: 02 100 9000 Open daily: 5:30pm-11:30pm www.shintoribangkok.com

SPANISH/LATIN Islero

The warm and inviting interior, divided between a tapas bar and a regular sit down restaurant area, welcomes adventurous diners to try some of the chef’s more daring molecular gastronomy creations—delicious and inventive takes on classic Spanish cuisine. 63 Athenee Tower, Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 168 8100 Open: Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm, Mon-Sun, 5pm-12am www.islerobangkok.com

www.labottega.name T. +6622041731 labottegabangkok

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FOOD & DRINK | listings

Uno Mas

Uno Mas

With its expansive menu of authentic Spanish specialties, coupled with spectacular city views, this chic, sky-high tapas bar and restaurant reaches new “heights” in several respects. 54F, Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 4pm-1am Tel: 02 100 6255 www.unomasbangkok.com

THAI Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant (and cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal

medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients. The Rose Hotel118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Garden Level, The Peninsula Bangkok 333 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 020 2888 bangkok.peninsula.com

Mango Tree

Broccoli Revolution

The classic Thai cuisine served here is as approachable and welcoming as the spacious and open multi-level seating area. In addition, there are nightly Thai dance and music performances. 37 Soi Tantawan, Surawongse Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-midnight Tel: 02 236 2820 www.exquisinethai.com

VEGETARIAN This veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Rd (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 Facebook: Broccoli Revolution

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, diners at this elegant, innovate eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an incredible culinary adventure down a road-less-travelled landscape. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-midnight Tel: 02 162 9000 www.kempinski.com/bangkok

Thiptara

The name translates as “water from the heavens”, and indeed the restaurant’s waterfront setting adds a lot to this majestic venue which serves up perfectly executed Thai traditional dishes.

Veganerie Concept

Veganerie Concept

The modern-rustic interior is flooded with natural light, and the fare—from tantalizing dairy-free bakery desserts to vegan appetizers and main courses—is pretty “natural” as well. 35/2 Soi Methiniwet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) Tel: 02 258 8489 Open: Fri-Wed, 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/veganbakerybangkok

Vivace Sustainable Malossol Caviar

LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com 108 | DECEM BER 2017

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O p e n t h i s D e c e m b e r. O p e n t h i s D e c e m b e r. N e e d a c lu e? Fo llo w u s o n Fa ce book a nd I nst a gr a m : N e e d a c lu e? Fo llo w u s o n Fac ebook a nd I nst a gr a m : A IR E B A R ai r e ba r ba ngk ok A IR E B A R a i re b a r ba ngk ok

AIRE BAR AIRE BAR 22/5 Sukhumvit 24, Khlong Tan, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110 22/5 Sukhumvit 24,28 Khlong Tan, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110 Fl, Hyatt Place Bangkok Sukhumvit 28 Fl, Hyatt Place Bangkok Sukhumvit

Photo from www.123RF.com

Zip around town with the Bangkok Exotic Bar Crawl by Tuk Tuk

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE exotic bar crawl by tuk tuk There’s wisdom in the phrase “don’t drink and drive” which is why joining in on the BANGKOK EXOTIC BAR CRAWL BY TUK TUK is such a good idea… cuz someone else does all the driving! Organized by BANGKOK FOOD TOURS, this new nighttime excursion brings you to four different themed bars, each with its own totally different vibe—from a refined traditional Thai speakeasy, to a famous high-end rooftop bar, to an underground cabaret/jazz lounge, to a strip joint with a boxing ring inside. Tour prices start at B1,200, which includes Tuk Tuk service, a local tour guide, and drop off service at the end of the tour (hotels in Bangkok’s city centre). The bar crawl runs from 7:30pm to 11:30pm, and guests are required to purchase at least one drink at each bar visited. Visit the website to find out more. www.bangkokfoodtours.com

vino vidi vici From Brunellos and Barolos, to Super Tuscans and Barbarescos, the GREAT WINES OF ITALY 2017 has it all. This year’s event is once again taking place in the Grand Ballroom of the GRAND HYATT ERAWAN hotel (494 Rajdamri Rd), and once again will be hosted by renowned wine expert JAMES SUCKLING. With over 85 winemakers displaying their finest vintages, and an expected crowd of over 1,200 persons, this year’s event promises to be bigger and better than ever. On December 8th, from 4pm till 8pm, discover premium Amarones, Chianti Classicos, and more at Bangkok’s largest premium wine showcase. Tickets are priced at B1,299 each (see story on pg. 12 for more details). www.jamessuckling.com/events/great-wines-italy-bangkok-2017

bar openings new and noted Fans of Fatty’s Bar and Diner will be pleased to know that owner MATTHEW FISCHER has now opened THE FAT TAP (Ekkamai Soi 16), which is half-BBQ joint, half-craft beer bar, and all-Americana. Inside, the long wooden bench piled with cushions invites diners and drinkers to sample amazing ribs (and more delicacies) alongside the 12 beers on tap, some exotic bottles in the fridge, and a few signature cocktails besides. Meanwhile, a world away in the Ari area, SCHNEIDER HAUS (Ari Samphan Soi 4) is the newest beer garden in town. With links to Bavaria’s Schneider Weisse brewing company, the bar and restaurant is located a spacious house with a beautiful garden. Order a rib-sticking bowl of German venison stew and indulge in some of Germany’s finest brew.

cheap charlie’s rises from the dead When CHEAP CHARLIE'S, everyone’s favourite low-cost watering hole, officially closed up its original location on March 31st—after spending some 35 years on the now defunct side alley off Sukhumvit Soi 11—the loss was a heavy one for Bangkok’s legion of dedicated drinkers. But, like a phoenix from the flames, this much-loved outdoor bar is finally opening up in its new location, opposite the TESCO LOTUS ON NUT parking lot (BTS On Nut Station). Owner SATIT BUDKAJANG's collection of weird and wonderful bric-a-brac will be returning as well, so although the space is new, the atmosphere will be just like old times.

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NIGHTLIFE | review

Salon du Japonisant

Photos by Craig Sauers

Beautiful design bar doubles as showcase for premium Japanese spirits

F

or a number of years, Bacchus Global has quietly imported top spirits from Japan and distributed them to Japanese bars and restaurants around town. Now Bacchus wants you to get a better understanding of those bottles of Yamazaki, Hibiki, and Ichiro you’ve seen on the shelves at your favourite izakaya. “Japan has very good spirits,” says Koji Hara, Managing Director of Bacchus Global, “but they’re not well-promoted.” Enter Salon du Japonisant. The bar, low-key and about as Japanese as it gets in terms of interior design, is hidden in plain sight, next door to Hanakaruta on a Sukhumvit Soi 39 sidestreet. The bar is something of a personal project for Hara, and the man knows his Japanese spirits. He’s a sake master and sommelier, and he’s been on enough tasting trips to Japan to witness the changes going on in the country. He estimates there are about 1,000 sake breweries now, and lately he’s been seeing spirit makers breaking out of the traditional mould: craft gin, whisky aged in shochu

112 | DECEM BER 2017

barrels, shochu aged in whisky barrels. At Salon du Japonisant, these spirits and more are available by the glass or the bottle. This includes a pretty solid selection of Junmai Daiginjo (“A-list”) sake, such as Mizubasho Pure from Gunma Prefecture (B1,980 730ml/B990 360ml) and the wonderful Ohmine (B3,200 730ml/B800 160ml), which is brewed from the chosen waters of Benten Pond and features a fruity, peach-like flavour. Mizubasho also makes champagne, of all things, which you can try here. But a better way to explore the flavours of the Japanese islands is to order a cocktail or three. Prepared by Kei Sawada—bartender, turned Bacchus employee, turned bartender again—the drinks highlight the scents and tastes that make Japanese spirits so sought-after. Sawada has largely stuck to the classics. Try a Gin & Tonic (B380). Here, it’s made with Ki No Bi Kyoto Gin, a distillery that produces its gin using a handful of Japanese botanicals, such as sakura, sanshō (Japanese pepper), matcha, and

yuzu. Topped off with Fever Tree Elderflower Tonic, the gin’s spicier tasting notes come through, balanced by its light, floral aroma. The Japanese take on a classic Old Fashioned, meanwhile, comes in a range of options, but the most interesting might be the Roasted Bancha (B430). Featuring a base of Suntory Chita whisky, Earl Grey bitters, lemon, and brown sugar syrup, the cocktail gets a heady twist with the addition of roasted bancha, or old green tea leaves. If you prefer something fruitier, the Mojito (B380) is a good choice. Sawada uses mint- and brown sugarinfused shochu as its base instead of rum. He also serves it with an almost literal forest of mint leaves garnish: proof that as cool and classy as the bar may be, you can roll up your sleeves here. by Craig Sauers

Salon du Japonisant

36/5, Sukhumvit Soi 39 Open: Mon-Sat, 6:30pm-midnight Tel: 083 019 9062 www.bacchusglobal.co.th bangkok101.com

review | NIGHTLIFE

Thaipioka

Speakeasy feel at Thong Lor’s most ideal watering hole

I

f you were to ask Bangkok bar-goers to describe their ideal watering hole, it might be some combination of dark, plenty of wood, excellent bespoke cocktails, engaging bartenders, and not an ounce of pretentiousness. New entrant Thaipioka ticks all those boxes, and can already lay claim to being one of the city’s best bars after little more than two months of operation. The bar hints at speakeasy culture with an unmarked door in the Salil Hotel compound on Thong Lor Soi 1. The candlelit wooden bar seems to never end—accented by unfinished logs as footrests and wooden chairs— while the music is soft enough to allow conversation. The group behind Thaipioka has a pedigree that includes Dim Dim and Q&A, and the some of the bartenders are alumni of Hyde & Seek. The featured cocktail menu varies monthly based on what is in season, and is inspired by the bartenders’ own memories. This is easily discerned because the boys behind the bar are gregarious and eager to tell you about bangkok101.com

their concoctions. In fact, if you go early enough in the night, Thaipioka is like visiting the house of a friend who just happens to mix great drinks. The 10 featured cocktails are divided between “short”, which are stiffer, and “long”, which are fruitier. The Crying Tiger Grilled (B400) has aged rum, rye, real cow fat, absinthe, and bitters. It was designed by bartender Pae, who has experience working for a BBQ company and saved the fat that dripped off grilled beef and used it to infuse the rum. The drink has a smoky texture and is served with dill, as a nod to Pae’s Isaan roots. The Sesame Manhattan (B360) features black sesame whisky, Cynar, maraschino liqueur, and black walnut bitters for a surprisingly smooth finish. The grainy, nutty taste is enhanced by the addition of essence of dehydrated corn and a walnut garnish. Pineapple Spicy Plum (B360) is the best-seller so not likely to disappear from the menu anytime soon. With rum, yuzu plum wine, homemade pineapple cordial, lime, and chili dust and salt each earning 50% of the rim,

this cocktail is the perfect mix of sour, spicy, and sweet. It would be easy to keep drinking this libation all night. Turmeric Thai Tea (B340), with turmeric-infused vodka, Thai tea booze, absinthe, lemon, honey, and seltzer, sounds like it would be sickly sweet, but it is zesty and herbal, hitting all the right tones. The Pandan & Mulberry Sangria (B340) has longaninfused bourbon to mellow it out, and shaved coconut on top of the drink to cut the pandan aroma, making for a light, fresh punch. The Chocolate Ginger Negroni (B340) is an example of the balance the bar seeks in its cocktails, with the zing of ginger and bitter cocoa nibs infused in the gin, in addition to black pepper and the aroma of orange peel. The result is subtle and layered. by Robin Banks

Thaipioka

44/7, Thong Lor Soi 1 (Salil Hotel) Tel: 087 713 6943 Open daily: 7pm till late www.facebook.com/thaipiokabkk DECEM BER 2017 | 113

NIGHTLIFE | listings

BAR 3 Bears Craft Brewery

This craft beer bar is a collaborative project by an architect, a sound engineer, and a renowned local chef. Alongside the great locally made suds, diners can order brewpub favorites like fried chicken wings and gourmet snacks such as piquant tempura-fried calamari. 1154, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Open: Mon-Fri, 4pm-midnight Sat-Sun 11am-midnight Tel: 095 456 8298 facebook.com/3bearscb

Brew

See and be seen at any one of the city’s three Brew. All have a healthy list of foreign brews and ciders on tap. A beerlover’s dream. 1F, Seen Space, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor), Tel: 02 185 2366 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 185 2366 Asiatique, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 02 108 8744 www.brewbkk.com

FooJohn Building

With four distinct venues within one building—from French bistro to US-style smokehouse—this hip Chinatown hotspot has quickly joined the ranks of go-to destinations for night owls and creative types alike. 831 Charoen Krung Rd., Soi 31 Open: Wed-Sun, 7pm-midnight Tel: 085 527 3511 www.facebook.com/foojohnbkk

specials and a mad scientist barman bent on experimentation, and home brewing his own spirits. 47/1 Phra Arthit Rd. Tel: 081 406 3773 Open: Tue-Sun, 5pm-midnight instagram.com/rarbbyescapade

Riverside Grill

While the restaurant’s “healthy menu” offers great meal deals, enjoying cool crafted cocktails by the riverside is an equally pleasant attraction here. Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers 2, Charoen Krung Soi 30 Open daily: 4pm to 1am Tel: 02 266 0123 www.royalorchidsheraton.com

Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar

A world-class wine bar that isn’t just all about wine. Offering 40 wines to choose from as well as some exciting options for the non-wine-inclined, while refined, rustic European cuisine is served up tapas-style for social dining. 2F, Gaysorn Plaza 999 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1133 Open daily: 11am-midnight www.riedelwinebarbkk.com

Shades of Retro

It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lor hotspot, Stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, And plenty of antiques. Soi Tararom 2, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 714 9450 Open daily: 3am-1am www.facebook.com/shadesofretrobar

Smalls

Decorated with vintage furniture and art, giving it a true bohemian vibe, this wellloved, three-storey neighbourhood drink spot offers a wide selection of beers, wines, and hard-to-find liquors, as well as, the occasional live jazz band. 186/3, Suan Phlu Soi 1 Tel: 095 585 1398 Open: Wed-Mon, 8:30pm-2am www.facebook.com/smallsbkk

TacoChela by Mikkeller Rarb

Rarb

Ensconced in a hipster-chic, glassencased nook, this Old Town craft cocktails mecca features a rotating menu of daily drink 114 | DECEM BER 2017

The combination of craft beer, fine spirits, and mouth-watering Mexican fare has made this taqueria an instant hit. Ari Samphan Soi 1 Open: Tue-Thu, 5pm-11pm, Fri-Sat, 5pm-midnight facebook.com/tacochelabkk bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE

Attitude

Touché Hombre

Touché Hombre

This hugely popular Mexican bar and restaurant offers curious customers a chance to sample the finest mezcals and top-end tequilas, as well as superb Mexican-inspired dishes. 2F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7760 Open daily: 6pm-1am (Fri-Sat till 2am) www.touchehombre.com

Trader Vic’s

The Bangkok branch of the world’s favourite Tiki Bar has been serving up potent tropical concoctions—with amazing riverside views—for over two decades. It’s a place that just begs you to let your hair down and have fun. 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-midnight; closed for dinner on Sundays Tel: 02 476 0022 bangkok-riverside.anantara.com

This sky-high drinking and dining spot boasts an inventive cocktail menu, delicious tapas-sized nibbles, and Instagram-worthy desserts, but the view overlooking the river is what really commands the attention here. 26F, Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 431 9100 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am minorhotels.com/en/avani/riverside-bangkok

Char

Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm-7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit 2, Sukhumvit Soi 57 Open daily: 5pm-2am Tel: 02 797 0000 www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

Cielo Sky Bar

The Speakeasy

Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

A rooftop bar, with a business-casual ambiance and unbeatable views of Bangkok, serving a wide-ranging and impressive list of cocktails at fair prices. 46F, Sky Walk Condominium Sukhumvit Soi 69 Tel: 02 348 9100 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.cieloskybar.com

Wishbeer Home Bar

It’s back and bigger than ever with new digs on the corner of Sukhumvit 67, where, though it remains a work in progress, it already welcomes satisfied beer drinkers by the dozens each night. Sukhumvit Soi 67 Tel: 02 392 1403 Open daily: 7:30am-1am www.wishbeerhomebar.com

ROOFTOP SKY BAR Amorosa

A sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails, and a showstopper of a view over the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun in the distance. 4F, Arun Residence Hotel 36-38, Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd. Tel: 02 221 9158 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.arunresidence.com bangkok101.com

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar

The Speakeasy

One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts, wines at solid prices, and cocktails (some crafted from homemade vodka infusions). 24/25F, Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.hotelmusebangkok.com

Zest Bar and Terrace

CRU Champagne Bar

CRU Champagne Bar

This high altitude hot spot is own by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com

Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails, and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-1am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com

Zoom Sky Bar & Restaurant

Meet, sip, and dine overlooking the city at this well-designed venue, offering innovative culinary experiences and 360° cityscape views. 40F, Anantara Sathorn Hotel Bangkok 36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd. Tel: 02 210 9000 Open daily: 6pm-1am bangkok-sathorn.anantara.com DECEM BER 2017 | 115

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CLUB Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best sound systems. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com

Cé La Vi

One of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, this is a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. 39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House— decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade, 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

the milieu. It’s laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd. Tel: 081 645 1166 Open daily: 8pm-2am www.onyxbangkok.com

Sing Sing Theater

Not entirely a club, nor exactly a bar in the truest sense, Sing Sing Theater transcends the limitations of our nightlife vocabulary. Sukhumvit 45 Tel: 097 285 6888 Open: Tue-Sun, 8pm-2am www.facebook.com/singsingtheater

Narz

Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance crowd moving for over two decades with their wild party atmosphere. Perfect for groups who want to make it their playground for the night. 112, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 4805 Open daily: 9pm-3am www.narzclubbangkok.net

Onyx

An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in 116 | DECEM BER 2017

Brown Sugar

Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com

PUBS The Australian

A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. 37, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 0800 Open daily: 9am-late www.theaustralianbkk.com

The Penalty Spot

The crowds that form here come mostly to check out live sports on TV, drink beer on draft, and watch the passing parade from the front window of this cozy pub. 507-511 Sukhumvit Rd. (near Soi 29) Tel: 02 661 6164 Open daily: 3pm-2am www.facebook.com/thepenaltyspot

The Royal Oak

Narz

Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/blackcabinbar

An old British enclave serving up delicious food in substantial portions, draft beer, and weekly pub quizzes. There’s even a comedy club upstairs which is open every Friday. 595/10, Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 Tel: 02 662 1652 Open daily: 10am-1am www.royaloakthailand.com

LIVE MUSIC Black Cabin

Half the space at Wild & Co. restaurant is given over to this brick-walled pub which eschews the mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists.

Maggie Choo's

Maggie Choo’s

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. GF, Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/maggiechoos

Saxophone

A must-visit live music joint, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every single night of the week. 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 246 5472 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.saxophonepub.com

The Zuk Bar

The ideal place for aperitifs or after dinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view, and enjoy live jazz by Coco Rouzier, Wednesday to Saturday nights and during the weekly Sunday brunch. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sukhothai.com bangkok101.com

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

D

id you know that one of the world’s most stylish and secretive picnic events, Dîner en Blanc, is coming to Bangkok for the first time this month? Established by François Pasquier, the first event was held in Paris in 1988 and had the simple intention of simply gathering together some of François’ friends. However, since then it has evolved—through word of mouth—to become an annual tradition, attracting close to 15,000 people a year in Paris alone. The picnic has also been held in over 25 countries, in 60 cities, including New York, Budapest, Hong Kong, Sydney, Singapore, and Johannesburg (to name but a few). Although arranged by local hosts, all Dîner en Blanc events must heed a strict “all white everything” dress code, and the top-secret location can only be revealed at the last minute. At the time of printing, the exact date, time, and even the prices had yet to be revealed, but registered guests can expect it to cost roughly B1,800-B2,000. This year the event in Bangkok is being organized by Shawnz Neo, Shannon Kalayanamit, Alisa Phibunsiri, and Irin Rerksasarn. Friends of the hosts, and Dîner en Blanc members, will have received an invitation code, while the general public had to register online. Registration for this year’s event closed on October 29th, unfortunately, so if you missed your chance to join the super-secret monochromatic picnic be sure to watch out for next year’s event and register early. bangkok.dinerenblanc.com

118 | DECEM BER 2017

bangkok101.com

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