publisher’s letter
E
verybody knows Bangkok is an eater’s paradise, but now it’s even more official. In its latest rankings, released in February, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, sponsored by S. Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, recognised six restaurants in the Thai capital, including David Thompson’s Nahm in the No.1 spot. What tremendous validation for this city’s dynamic culinary scene! In honour of the awards, we dedicate considerable ink this issue to promoting the Kingdom’s unique passion for all things edible. We offer an inside look at the awards ceremony in Singapore, sit down for an exclusive chat with Thompson and present eight pages of mouth-watering photographs showing signature dishes from each of the winning restaurants. Of course, we haven’t forgotten that mid-April also marks the country’s best-loved festival, Songkran, celebrating the Thai New Year. It’s one of the most popular times of year for people to hit the road, and in our travel pages we visit two fabulous weekend getaway destinations: Hua Hin and George Town in Penang, Malaysia. All this and our 101 archive and extras can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks is all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering but should, then please drop us a line at info@talisman-media.com.
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What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
b a ngkok 101 Par t n e r s
bangkok101.com
A PR I L 2014 | 3
Contributors
publisher
Mason Florence editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat editor
Bill Bredesen group editor
Joe Cummings editorial assistant
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, Dr Tom Vitayakul has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer joe cummings was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
Food and travel writer howard richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer. He’s contributed to publications such as GQ , the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine.
Pawika Jansamakao art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Watcharee Sadubsoi
strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Gaby Doman, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Tom Sturrock, Keith Mundy contributing photographers
Dejan Patic´, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director business development
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon
partnership development manager
Willem Deenik British-born writer-artist steven pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left. An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a commentator on the local art scene, contributing to international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published coffeetable book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art . When not musing, he is often found travel writing.
AVAILABLE AT:
bangkok101.com
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, korakot (nym) punlopruksa believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Very Thai author philip cornwel-smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in the areas of culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand: A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first phone guide for Nokia.
projects director
Wasin Banjerdtanakul circulation
Pradchya Kanmanee published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarindra Soi 4, Sathon Tai Road, Yannawa, Sathon, Bangkok 10120 T 02-286-7821 | F 02-286-7829 info@talisman-media.com © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2013. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
A PR I L 2014 | 5
CONTENTS 40
44
18
city pulse
a r t & c u lt u r e
8 metro beat
48 exhibition highlights
96 new collection:
12 hot plates: le du
52 interview:
greyhound original
14 out and about:
life on the street
98 unique boutique:
the wettest week
55 cheat notes
keaw kham
18 best of bangkok:
shopping
99 jj gem: code 10
toast of the town
food & drink
s n a p s h ot s
asia’s 50 best restaurants
56 photo feature:
96
22 tom’s two satang
64 food & drink news
24 very thai
66 meal deals
25 chronicle of thailand
67 restaurant reviews:
26 joe’s bangkok
w does brunch, ytsb,
28 bizarre thailand
chili hip, zipangu, rock,
30 historic homes,
kaguya, cicchetti
wellness
temples and museums
76 in the kitchen:
100 spa reviews:
stefano merlo
i.sawan spa and club,
t r av e l
77 eat like nym
rarinjinda wellness spa
34 up country now
78 restaurant listings
resort
40 up country escape:
nightlife
reference
the sweetest winds
86 nightlife news
102 getting there
blow south
82 nightlife review:
104 maps
44 over the border:
jojo
112 my bangkok:
anchored in the arts
84 nightlife listings
tom bishop
38 hotel reviews
bangkok 101
april 2014 100 baht
FEAST OF FLAVOURS | CITY PULSE
The Wettest Week | ART
Life On The Street | SHOPPING Greyhound
on the cover David Thompson’s Nahm leads the list of Bangkok restaurants selected among Asia’s 50 best. Check out p56.
Original
Feast of Flavours
april 2014
We celebrate the six Bangkok restaurants named among Asia’s 50 best 3/18/14 3:31 PM
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100
The chic design and modern layout at Chili Hip restaurant and Walk bar create an almost surreal ambiance, Enhanced by an innovative cocktail and an Asian Menu. Enjoy your dining on the rooftop at Centara Watergate Pavillion Hotel Bangkok as you take in stunning views of the city in one of Bangkok’s most elite nightlife destinations
T: +66 (0) 2 625 1234 E : cwbrsvngroup@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com centarahotelsresorts mycentara CENTARA WATERGATE PAVILLION HOTEL BANGKOK
I
567 Ratchaprarop Road, Makkasan, Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400 Thailand
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metro beat
by Howard Richardson
Thirty Seconds to Mars
ROCK & POP Mild
Jared Leto, winner of Best Supporting Actor at this year’s Oscars for his role in Dallas Buyers Club, brings his band Thirty Seconds to Mars to BITEC (km1, 88 Bangna-Trad Rd, 02-749-3939, bitec.co.th) on April 5. The Los Angeles threepiece, which also includes Leto’s brother Shannon and multiinstrumentalist Tomo Milicevic, will surely play City of Angels from their fourth studio album Love, Lust, Faith and Dreams, along with tracks like The Kill and This Is War. For touring, the band has added Stephen ‘Stevie’ Aiello on bass guitar, keyboards and backing vocals. They have won a dozen awards from MTV and they also hold the Guinness World Record for the longest-ever concert tour by a rock band, covering 300 shows in almost 60 countries. Tickets at Thai Ticketmajor (02-2623456, thaiticketmajor.com) are B2000-B3000 for early birds and B2500-B3500 on show day.
Chiang Mai poppers Mild, formed six years ago through gigs on the city’s Walking Street, come to Thunder Dome, Muangthong Thani (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) on April 4 for what they’re calling their “first full show”. They’ve named the event 1235 Mild Live, because four is their lucky number, and will perform tracks from their quartet of albums, including Wan Yen, Love Sick and Dao. Tickets are selling at Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com) for B1000B1500 apiece. Get more on the band from spicydisc.com.
The Black Dahlia Murder, named after the notorious unsolved killing of Elizabeth Short in Los Angeles in 1947 (the subject of several films), bring their “melodic metal” sounds to The Rock Pub (Hollywood Street Building, Phaya Thai Rd, 081-666-4359, therockpub-bangkok.com) on April 27. Fans of the US band can expect tracks like In Hell Is Where She Waits for Me and Raped in Hatred by Vines of Thorn, both from the band’s latest album Everblack, released in 2013. Tickets are B1000 before April 20, B1200 on the night.
Welsh metallists Bullet for My Valentine play at Centerpoint Studio (9-11 Sukhumvit Soi 105 (Soi Lasalle), 02-361-9229) on May 1, drawing on material from four studio albums, including last year’s Temper Temper. They have won Metal Hammer Awards for Best British band in 2006 and 2010, plus three gongs from Kerrang! magazine for the same title. Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com) is selling tickets for B1800.
On their way to Bangkok, the German death metal pioneers Kreator warn us to “be prepared for the Phantom Antichrist”, the title of their 13th album, released in 2012. The classic guitar-led four-piece take the stage at Hollywood Awards (72/2 Ratchadapisek Soi 8, 02-246-4311) on April 24 with tracks like Death to the World, Absolute Misanthropy and United in Hate, all yours for the friendly price of B1500.
The American post-rock band from Texas Explosion in the Sky will perform songs from their six albums at Moonstar Studios (701 Ladprao 80 (Soi Chantima), 02-539-3881, moonstarstudio.co.th) on April 29. They promise “elaborately developed guitar work” from a line-up of three guitars, bass and drums, in structures they call “cathartic mini-symphonies”. The band has contributed to several films and documentaries, including Love Happens, The Diving Bell and the Butterfly and Michael Moore’s Capitalism: A Love Story. Tickets are B1500 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). 8 | A PR I L 2014
Kreator bangkok101.com
metro beat
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FILM
Luis Bunel The Festival of Luis Bunel at Sri Salaya Theatre (Phutthamonthon Sai 5 Rd, Salaya, 02-482-2013) on April 5 & 6 showcases works by the great Spanish director completed during his decade living in Mexico. The films – El Gran Calavera (The Great Madcap, 1949); Subida al Cielo (Ascent to Heaven, 1952); La Ilusión Viaja en Tranvía (Illusion Travels by Streetcar, 1954); Nazarin (1959) and La Hija del Engano (The Daughter of Deceit, 1951) – are in Spanish with English subtitles. Showtimes are 1pm, 3pm and 5pm on both days (3pm on the 5th is a talk about Bunuel by Wiwat Lertwiwatwongsa, conducted in Thai). Entrance is free. See facebook. com/thaifilmarchivepage for more.
JAZZ Sunny Trio & The Vox, comprised of leading jazz musicians from the faculty, student body and alumni of Silpakorn Jazz Faculty, will perform a special show at Sala Sudasiri Sobha (Ladprao 41 Yaek Sub-soi Sunday jazz 7-2, 02-541-8662, salasudasirisobha. com) on April 27 as part of the venue’s Sunday 4pm concert series. The musicians promise an eclectic selection of old and new jazz standards, along with refreshing original compositions, including modern jazz harmony and masterful improvisation. Tickets are B500 each with proceeds benefiting the Gift of Life Foundation. bangkok101.com
La Hija del Engano
DANCE
Dancing Arts Festival Traditional dance takes centre stage at the Dancing Arts Festival to be held in the main hall of the National Theatre (Rachinee Rd, 02-224-1342) on April 27. Various performers will participate in several dance forms, running from 1.30pm-5.30pm. Tickets are B500-B2000 from Thai Ticketmajor (02-262-3456, thaiticketmajor.com). A PR I L 2014 | 9
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International Motor Show
SHOWS & FAIRS Get into the fast lane with modern cars, bikes, accessories and concept vehicles at the 35th Bangkok International Motor Show 2014, which revs up at Impact Arena (99 Popular Rd, Pakkred, 02-504-5050, impact.co.th) until April 6. It’s open daily from noon-10pm, and 11am-10pm on weekends. The full details are at bangkokmotorshowgroup.com. The 42nd National Book Fair & 12th Bangkok International Book Fair combine with the promise of “a myriad of premium quality local and international books” at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (60 Ratchadaphisek Rd, 02229-3000, qsncc.co.th) until April 7. It’s open 10am-8pm daily. There’s a bit more information at pubat.or.th. They expect nearly 2,000 booths for the Bangkok International Gift Fair and Bangkok International Houseware Fair 2014 at BITEC (km1, 88 Bangna-Trad Rd, 02-749-3939, bitec.co.th)
International Book Fair from April 19-23. Touted as ASEAN’s leading international trade fair for trendy gifts and lifestyle products, it will be full of toys, games, handicrafts, household goods, and pretty much anything else you can think of.
SPORT & GAMES Several grand masters and international masters will hunch over the boards during the 14th BCC Open and Thailand Open Chess Championships 2014, held at the Dusit Thani Bangkok (946 Thanon Rama IV, 02-200-9999, dusit.com) from April 12-19. International Chess Federation (FIDE) rules, regulations and ratings apply in two groups of play: Open (for all players) and Challenger (for players rated below 2100). Each player has 90 minutes for 40 moves. Get a glimpse of the international tennis stars of tomorrow when they compete in Bangkok at the ITF Women’s Circuit at the Rama Garden Sport Complex (9/9 Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd, 02-558-7888, ramagardenshotel.com) from April 21-27. The tournament, organised by the International Tennis Federation, is one of around 400, held in 60 countries, that provide entry-level 10 | A PR I L 2014
Thailand Open Chess Championships players with a ranking path to the WTA Tour and world acclaim. There will be singles and doubles matches, with prize money of $10,000. Head to itftennis.com for more information. bangkok101.com
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hot plates
Le Du by Howard Richardson
T
he two young local chefs at Le Du combine traditional Eastern and Western ingredients with great panache, making the restaurant further proof of how rapidly the Bangkok dining scene is maturing. While the name may sound French, Le Du is actually a transliteration of the Thai word for ‘season’. The chefs source local produce as often as possible, regularly changing their menu based on what is best available. The chefs, Thitid Tassanakajohn and Worathon Udomchalotorn, are Bangkok natives who met in New York while studying at the Culinary Institute of America. In Silom, they’ve created a smart, casual 12-table bistro in a mainly white room where the concealed lighting creates an atmospheric glow. Also behind floor-to-ceiling glass screens is an antechamber with a couple of tables that works as double glazing to keep out street noise. It’s a cute addition to one of Bangkok’s more traditional market lanes, still just 50 metres from Chong Nonsi BTS station. The food here is impressive, beginning with the amuse-bouche, which on our visit included wispy light sunchoke crisps on cream cheese with a sauce of squid ink, truffle and potatoes. The dinner menu is divided into four sections: Cold & Raw, From the Reef, From the Ranch, and Sin. There are also two tasting menus: a four-course set (B990), for which you choose one dish from each section of the à la carte menu (with supplements on some dishes, such as wagyu beef and pork belly), and a seven-course set (B1590). Both menus are also available with signature wine pairings. Our cold choice was the raw Hokkaido scallop (B400), served with a pleasing mix of sensations in creamy yoghurt panna cotta, sour kaffir lime made into a sticky powder with maltodextrine and, most interestingly, a clean and chilling borage ice that lends a not-quite-sour, not-quite-bitter edge. The chicken main dish (B420) comes with sticky tamarind sauce, from which the sour notes lift mild chilli from cashew nut-spiced puree. The sousvide chicken is moist and tender, with a skin delicately crisp from follow-up pan-frying. We finished with chocolate pot de crème (B270) served in a wide-brimmed whisky glass. It comes with the sweet crunch of feuilletine and crumbles of meringue; fruity acidity from berry gel; and sorrel leaves, which are no mere garnish but give leafy green sour undercurrents that cleanse the palate of rich chocolate as you eat. The wine list features a sensible range of grapes and regions (B1390 to B23,400), with 10 by the glass, including sparkling and rosé (B320-B440). There are five dessert wines, too, some of which are used in wine pairings.
le du
[MAP 5/5H]
399/3 Silom Soi 7 | 09-2919-9969 | ledubkk.com Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm, Sat 6pm-11pm
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hot plates
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the wettest week The origins of Songkran are anchored in traditions that have shaped the region over the past thousand years.
BY JOE CUMMINGS
T
he cultures of the Mekong region – Thailand, Laos, Yunnan, Myanmar, Cambodia and Vietnam – share an affinity for water that goes beyond their shared geographic link to one of the world’s mightiest rivers. This relationship to water dates to over a thousand years ago when the peoples of this region first began forming city-states centred in river valleys along the Red River in southern China and northern Vietnam and as far west as the Salween River in what is today eastern Myanmar’s Shan State. At one time, two migrational flows predominated – a northern terminus focused around the Yuan Jiang 14 | A PR I L 2014
bangkok101.com
out & about
and other river areas in China’s modern-day Yunnan and Guangxi provinces, and a southern terminus along Thailand’s Chao Phraya River. Even today anyone travelling to these two areas will find them densely populated, while intermediate relay points between the two remain more sparsely peopled. Among the many intermediate migrational zones, the Mekong River valley through China, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam formed the largest. Beginning as early as the eighth century AD, but most certainly by the 10th century, migrant Tais had established local meuang (roughly ‘principality’ or ‘city-state’) – each based in a river valley – under the rule of sovereigns called chao meuang. Although Tai social schemata dominated, such states weren’t exclusively Tai in population, but assimilated indigenous populations of Tibeto-Burmans and MonKhmers. Wherever these meuang sprang up, waterways natural and man-made served not only as sources for nutrition, bathing, agriculture and transport, but as important bangkok101.com
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cultural adjuncts. City plans in virtually all of these rivervalley states originally resembled mandala, the quasicircular diagrams created by Buddhist artists as an object for meditation. Much like Hindu-Buddhist mythology’s Mount Meru, around which the cosmos unfolds in concentric continents alternating with slender cosmic oceans, river valley states were organised around a web of natural and artificial waterways fanning out from a central river or stream serving as the cities’ axis. The most important festival in the entire region is the celebration of the solar-lunar New Year, when the sun passes from the sign of Pisces into the sign of Aries in the zodiac. Called Samkranta (Sanskrit for ‘fully passed over’, pronounced ‘Songkran’ in Tai-speaking cultures and ‘Thingyan’ in Myanmar), this festival demands that people take a few days out of their normal work schedules for spiritual cleansing and renewal. Believers hold that during this short period – April 13 through 15 in Thailand – the spirit of the previous year departs and a new one arrives. Hence, on the first day A PR I L 2014 | 15
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out & about
of the festival, people give their homes a thorough cleaning to welcome the New Year spirit. New clothes will be worn, and in many households there is a ritual disposal of old clothing and other dispensable household possessions. In Buddhist cultures, celebrants will gather at local monasteries to build temporary stupas out of sand, a simple demonstration of their religious faith for the coming year. On the second day of the Samkranta festival, important Buddha images are taken from local monasteries and paraded in the streets, to remind all of the importance of Buddhism. Water, representing the principal agent for this cleansing and renewal, plays a central role throughout the festival, and in fact a common nickname for Samkranta nowadays is the ‘water festival’. Typically, on the third day of celebrations, Buddha images are returned to their monastery homes, where they receive a ritual bathing as local Buddhists take turns pouring water over the images. The faithful will also pour water over the hands of older Buddhist monks, and at home will perform the same ceremony for elders in the family. Although the original meaning of the water festival is kept alive by ceremonies such as these, nowadays it’s also very much a festival of fun. In most of the Mekong region, this is the height of the hot and dry season, and residents revel in being able to douse one another with water to cool off. Among one’s social equals, the ritual 16 | A PR I L 2014
ablutions extend to emptying buckets of water over the head and shoulders, and in Bangkok, Chiang Mai and elsewhere, the festival has escalated to a full-scale ‘water war’ involving pump-action water rifles, hoses and virtually anything else that can deliver water with force. Each year during Samkranta in Chang Mai, the streets also serve as a venue for an international tribute to the shared cultures of the Mekong Basin. Street processions along Tha Phae, Ratchadamnoen and Suthep roads showcase the traditional costumes and dance traditions from each of the five GMS countries. These colourful processions are supplemented by illustrative displays at the Chiang Mai University Conference Hall and Chiang Mai Cultural Exhibition Hall, both on Nimanhemin Road. Northern Thailand’s Grand Lanna culture – encompassing the eight provinces of Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Lampang, Lamphun, Phayao, Nan, Phrae, and Mae Hong Son – is also thoroughly represented. In addition to enjoying cultural performances, visitors have the opportunity to shop for souvenirs and meet local traders at the festival’s Tourism Trade & Consumer Fair. Just as the waters of the Mekong flow unimpeded by international borders for thousands of kilometres, so the cultures of the Mekong Basin continue to maintain many common characteristics in spite of nation-building and global politics. bangkok101.com
mondo‘s High Tea
available everyday from 11am-6pm only THB 480++ per person
SUKHUMVIT BANGKOK
Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 For reservation call: 02-620 6666 www.facebook.com/HiltonSukhumvit
toast of the town Now in its second year, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants paid tribute to the region’s best eateries of 2014, with six Bangkok favourites making the list.
T
hailand’s burgeoning culinary scene received a boost in February when six Bangkok restaurants were recognised among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, an award sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna and organised by William Reed Business Media. Not only that, but David Thompson’s Nahm was named the No.1 restaurant in all of Asia, supplanting last year’s top regional eatery, Narisawa in Tokyo. Now in its second year, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants has quickly established itself as an influential snapshot of where discerning foodies are dining in the region, while also offering a glimpse into the trends and new experiences shaping the industry. The restaurants from Thailand on this year’s list are as eclectic as they are impressive. The No.3 restaurant in 18 | A PR I L 2014
BY CHRISTINE McGINNIS
Asia, Gaggan serves molecular Indian cuisine; Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin (No.21) creates authentic Thai food with a modern twist; Bo.lan (No.28) adheres to timeless principles of preparing traditional Thai cuisine; Issaya Siamese Club (No .31) combines classic Thai ingredients with international and progressive cooking methods; and Eat Me (No.37) has made a name for itself with its modern international and regional dishes. (See our photo feature beginning on page 56 for more details.) Bangkok’s culinary landscape represents everything from world-class fine dining to all-pervasive street food, and it is typified by a palpable energy and entrepreneurial spirit, marked by a constant pursuit of the exceptional. Bringing together a veritable who’s-who of the regional restaurant world, the awards ceremony was held at the bangkok101.com
best of bangkok
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Clockwise from far left: Chefs and owners from the six Bangkok-based restaurants that made this year’s list; a panel of experts addresses a captive audience; chef Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava from Bo.lan; Nahm celebrates being named No.1
elegant Capella Resort in Singapore. The high-wattage event was full of polished celebrations and non-stop networking. Making the list can be a game-changer for these restaurants, and recognition as one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants brings a surge in demand, as well as additional pressure to perform and improve. Following the ceremony, attendees made the social rounds, letting their hair down and, of course, enjoying plenty of world-class food. Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants also featured a two-day interactive forum and intimate chefs’ workshop. The forum line-up was co-curated and chaired by Thompson, and while the topic The Future of Food – Back to Our Roots sounds quite broad, it proved to be an appropriate jumping-off point for presentations and provocative panel discussions that ranged from Raw: The Rise of the Vegetable to Authenticity: Integrity and Interpretation. Chefs discussed their motivations, how they prioritise and what they consider to be the most essential aspects to approaching life in the kitchen. Joan Rocas of El Celler bangkok101.com
de Can Roca in Spain was especially eloquent as he shared his thoughts on memory as a creative concept, as well as the sensory aspects of being in the kitchen. The final discussion, The Rise of the Celebrity Chef, was both fascinating and timely. With diners these days more demanding than ever before, a handful of chefs have achieved rock star status thanks to their increased visibility through reality TV shows and 24-hour food networks. Although it seems like a chef ought to be one or the other – a chef or a TV star – people like Alvin Leung of Bo Innovation in Hong Kong (No.15 on this year’s list) prove that some chefs can indeed do it all. Awards and “best of” lists are great ways to spark dialogue and debate as the subjectivity inherent in them keep the discussion dynamic. In the end, this type of recognition propels all restaurants – awardees and others – to constantly push themselves to innovate. And those who succeed at rising above the crowd will have an opportunity next year to join the ranks of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. A PR I L 2014 | 19
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best of bangkok
Maestro Nahm’s ascent to No.1 in Asia is worthy
recognition of David Thompson’s lifelong commitment to Thai cuisine.
BY BILL BREDESEN
H
e’s triple-booked these days with media appointments, but then any chef who can’t multi-task probably isn’t worth his weight in fish sauce. In February, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, the award sponsored by S. Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, crowned David Thompson’s Nahm in Bangkok the No.1 restaurant in all of Asia, supplanting Tokyo-based Narisawa in the top spot. Thompson is both humble and gently self-deprecating about the honour, insisting during a rapid-fire, 20-minute interview with Bangkok 101 that he has “always tried to ignore much of that side of the business” and calling such recognition “inconvenient” for the barrage of phone calls and emails it inevitably brings. Besides, Thompson says jokingly, he lost a bet with a Singaporean friend in which he wagered against himself. “I lost a 64-course meal, plus bottles of fish sauce and several other things,” he says. “I thought Singaporeans would go up and we would go down.” Being dubbed “Best in Asia” hasn’t necessarily added more pressure, Thompson says. “What it has done is spur me on to look for better ingredients. We should not rest on what laurels we have, but try to strive for something better, not to try to win more awards but simply because it’s the right thing to do,” he says. Of course, such accolades are nothing new for the chef, whose previous Nahm, in London, became the first-ever Thai restaurant to receive a Michelin star. His approach to Thai cuisine is rooted in ancient traditions, but the food doesn’t “languish in the past,” he says. “It’s brought back to life, not to compromise it, but to fit it to our current tastes in light of those traditions.” Asked whether he ever draws on non-Thai influences in his cooking, Thompson replies, in a characteristically playful manner: “No, with the keenness of a convert, I have expelled all those tainted foreign influences.” Ever since he opened Nahm in Bangkok’s Metropolitan Hotel in 2010, the Australian-born chef has been at the centre of a passionate debate in Thailand over whether non-Thais can truly master the art of cooking Thai food. Thompson says he appreciates why some Thais might be skeptical. “Sometimes when I eat Thai food cooked by Westerners 20 | A PR I L 2014
I can only agree with Thais and raise my hand in horror because a bittersweet chilli sauce and a bunch of coriander doth not a cuisine make,” Thompson quips. “But after 25 years, I’ve got a fair idea of what I’m doing, I like to think. All I want to do is be faithful to my understanding of what this food is all about – something that has held me in thrall for decades,” he says. Besides, he points out, Nahm is about more than just one farang chef in the kitchen. “Often the argument thrown around that a Westerner can’t cook [Thai cuisine] doesn’t take into account the reality of a restaurant, where I don’t cook every dish, every day, all the time,” he says. “It isn’t me alone that does that… Prin Polsuk, my main chef, is fantastic, and he and I devise things and work together more closely than ever.” bangkok101.com
“Underneath Prin are 30 other cooks, all of them Thai,” Thompson adds. Besides Nahm, five other Bangkok restaurants were named to this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, including Gaggan (No.3), Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin (No.21), Bo.lan (No.28), Issaya Siamese Club (No.31) and Eat Me (No.37). It is, according to Thompson, proof of Bangkok’s growing status as a world-class dining destination. “I think Bangkok is going through a wonderful, exciting, thrilling stage, a renaissance of restaurants,” he says. “This has always been a great eating town, traditionally a great eating culture, but much of that culture was found on the streets and inside homes. Bangkokians are far savvier now than ever before, and they can see through frauds or things that aren’t well executed.” bangkok101.com
Thompson insists it would now be impossible to open another restaurant like Nahm anywhere but Thailand. His earlier Nahm in London closed in 2012 after EU regulations put an embargo on Thai ingredients. However, he is now exploring the idea of opening a restaurant in Singapore specialising in street food. “Coming back to Bangkok, I’ve realised that the ingredients we were getting, which I thought were fantastic, were not as good as I thought,” he says. “Now we have access to ingredients that are just fantastic.”
nahm
[MAP 5/k7]
GF Metropolitan Hotel, 27 South Sathorn Rd | 02-625-3333 comohotels.com | 7pm-11pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm
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water is everywhere during songkran
22 | XXX 2013
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insight
ToTwmo ’Ssatang
S N A P S H OT S
Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr Tom Vitayakul as he gives his unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner.
On songkran
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mong the festivals in Thailand, Songkran, the Thai New Year, is the most infectiously festive of them all. It’s celebrated for three days, officially from April 13-15 every year, but it effectively lasts for the whole week because most Thais flock to beaches or resorts for some R&R or to their home towns to visit their families. It is celebrated from Yunnan in southern China down to many parts in the Malaysian peninsula an also in India and Sri Lanka. Its main importance is the change of season from winter to spring in Vedic Astrology. However, it falls in Thailand’s midsummer when the sun at noon is directly above us. Songkran comes from sankranti, a Sanskrit word meaning ‘transit’ or ‘transmigration’. Like most festivals, it is agriculture-related, the time for a last hurrah before returning to work in the fields to plough and prepare for the next planting of rice. Many believe the rituals of sprinkling water during Songkran were directly influenced by the Indian Holi Festival. It is partly true; however, it actually started much longer ago in Persia, where the Zoroastrians still practice ‘Sprinkle Chahnvarh’, the ritual of sprinkling water. Like the fire they also worship, water washes away dirt and the past to bring in the new. The water should also be scented with nahm ob Thai or ‘Eau de Siam’, a heady amalgam of flowers, fruits and minerals. As for Thai traditions, water gets sprinkled on a Buddha image, then poured on parents’ or the elders’ palms as a sign of respect, and splashed on friends and bystanders. These rituals echo the legend of Songkran, in which Khabilabrahma, an oracular god, became jealous of a new prophet, Dharmapala Kumar, a wealthy man’s only son. Fearing he would be usurped, the god posed a riddle to Dharmapala Kumar. If the challenge went unsolved, he would be beheaded. Khabilabrahma asked where the human aura resides at three different times of the day. Dharmapala Kumar understood the language of the birds and, after eavesdropping on a couple of eagles that planned to devour his carcass the next day, he answered the riddle correctly. In the morning, the aura is on our face; at noon, it transfers to our chest; in the evening, it moves to our feet. These, after all, are the body parts we wash or spray perfume at those times.
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As a result, Khabilabrahma was beheaded instead and, each year, one of his angelic daughters arrives to parade his head around Mount Meru. Each of his daughters represents a different day of the week, according to which day Songkran falls. For example, if it is Sunday like this year, Nang Thungsa parades the head, wearing pomegranate flowers and jewellery made from garnets. If Mahasongkran day is on Sunday, the crop on that year will not be as abundant as usual. It also coincides with Miss Songkran pageants all over the country, where gorgeous gals don opulent Thai costumes and display their wit. For fun and frivolity, water gets sprayed and soaks the revellers’ all over, not just specific body parts. Since it is summer, Thais shed their inhibitions and let loose of their clothes. Skin gets exposed and wet clothing clings to their bodies. Decadence is an inevitable part of these types of festivals since they always deal with agricultural fertility. Songs, dances, games and entertainment vary in each region too. During the festival in Samut Prakarn, the Mons (an ethnic group from southern Myanmar that settled in Thailand) plays sabaa, which comes from big seeds of gigantic beans. They toss them on to a gridded ground as far as possible, similarly to pétanque. So mark your calendar and join in for sanuk. There is no need for resolutions or throwing away regrets. For us Thais, Songkran is the true beginning of the year. A PR I L 2014 | 23
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very thai
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magical tattoos
Spells on skin make the wearer invincible
hronicles record that the Thai art of tattoos was revived on April 23, 2546 BE (2003 AD), a change known as Pre- and Post-Angelina. Tattooing had slid from sacred custom to occult stigma, but that century of decline reversed at a samnak (shaman’s den) in Nonthaburi. There, the charismatic tattoo master Ajahn Noo Kanpai inscribed five lines of mystical script onto the – gasp – bare left shoulder of actress Angelina Jolie. The image of sak yan (literally, ‘pricked diagram’) shifted from the déclassé brand of dangerous men to a ‘female-friendly’ hallmark of auspicious Thai heritage. The design might be a mythical creature from the Himaphan forest, a complex geometric yantra (pronounced yan) or a curlicued, logo-like blessing called na. Masters typically choose the image – whether drawn or traced from a block print or stencil – according to the recipient’s personality type and needs. Grids equate to armour, lions to promotion, elephants and turtles to prosperity and entwined naga serpents to charisma. Numbers in a chakra rasi circle come from Thai astrology. Location matters. The head, being sacred to Thais, may depict the Buddha or the unalom on the third eye. Angels and animals from the Himaphan Forest populate chest and back, lesser charms adorn arms, hands, abdomen and lower parts.
> Very Thai
Photograph: Philip Cornwel-Smith
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip CornwelSmith | B 995
24 | A PR I L 2014
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, ‘Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture’ is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com
chronicle of thailand
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april 9, 2007:
‘Magical’ Jathukham talismans set off craze
thousands camp out for the chance DRUG to get hold of wildly popular new amulet
OUS
arm
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50-year-old woman was killed and dozens of people injured when a crowd stampeded during the sale of popular talisman, which was supposed to bringChiang good Rai Thai against drug lor fortune and wealth. More than 10,000 people had camped his 200-mule op overnight by a school compound in Nakhon Si Thammarat province, waiting to buy the Jathukham Ramathep amulets,Several tho by planes and h which had gained a huge following for their claimed magical stronghold at Ba qualities and rising market value. (SUA). At least 1 The fatal incident had no effect on the insatiable appetite as fierce fighting for Jathukham amulets, with the temple that was making and selling them fully booked until the end of the year for After Thai a truce proposa incantations. Huge numbers continued to flock to the Wat Tinsulanond sta Phra Mahathat Buddhist temple, the source of amulets. The narcotics traffick local committee overseeing the Jathukham business included continue administrators, police, temples and the amulets creators. The its driv It wa amulets were said to be pumping 100 million baht intodestroyed.” the of the region’s h Nakhon Si Thammarat economy each week. Nearby hotels extensive headq were completely booked every weekend. However, some found the ‘Jathukham craze’ to be and equipment In July, Kh distasteful. Several leading monks criticised the fad as fought a contradictory to Buddhist values, saying it was driven troops, by side of Doi Lang financial greed. Chronicle of Thailand is the story of Thailand during the reign of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Beginning on the day he was crowned, June 9 1946, the book presents a vivid eye-witnessaccount of Thailand’s development through the major news events of the last 64 years. Alongside a grandstand view of events and quirky aspects of daily life that just happened to make the news, the book features thousands of rare and fascinating pictures and illustrations, representing one of the most comprehensive photo collections of Thailand ever produced.
> Chronicle of Thailand
EDM Books | editor-in-chief
21 January Nicholas1982 Grossman | B1,450
> Chronicle of Thailand EDM Books | editor-in-chief Nicholas Grossman | B1,450
Chiang Rai prov displaced hundr Border Patrol Po Sa’s new base o constructed 200
Chronicle of Thailand is th Adulyadej. Beginning on t presents a vivid eye-witne major news events of the as they unfolded and quir the news, the book featur illustrations, representing Thailand ever produced.
still life in moving vehicles
along for the ride T
hais are obsessed with all things Japanese these days. Ramen noodle shops can be found in every mall, some street vendors now sell sushi, middle-aged ladies wear Hello Kitty accessories, Japanimation dubbed in Thai is regularly shown on TV, Japanese-style goods are available at “60 baht” stores, and Pokémon characters, including Pikachu, decorate Bangkok taxis.
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CiTy vS. COUNTRy This cabby literally wears two hats. He dons a baseball cap when he’s driving his cab and puts on this straw hat when he’s farming. This is not uncommon in Bangkok as many cabbies here come from the countryside to drive a taxi between rice plantings and harvests, or when extra income is desperately needed. I asked the driver of this taxi which job he prefers and he told me that he would much rather do farming than drive in this city full of traffic jams and crazy people. Visual artist and academic, Dale Konstanz snaps photos of the sacred decorations and other bits and bobs he finds in Bangkok taxis, then writes about them on his blog, Still Life in Moving Vehicles (http://lifeinmovingvehicle.blogspot.com). Published by River Books, the spin-off book, Thai Taxi Talismans, is available at bookstores around town for B995. A PR I L 2014 | 25
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Joean’sgkok B
Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
Letters from Buddhadasa
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uddhadasa Bhikkhu, Thailand’s most famous monk and one of the 20th century’s most influential ascetic-philosophers, was born Nguam Panich in Chaiya, Surat Thani in 1906. He was ordained as a Buddhist monk at age 20, taking the name ‘Phra Indapanno’. He spent many years studying Pali Buddhist scriptures before retreating to the forest for six years of solitary meditation. Returning to ecclesiastical society, he was offered a high rank but instead founded his own forest monastery, Wat Suanmokkhabalaram, in 1932 as an alternative to orthodox Thai monasteries. Here he developed an ecumenical philosophy that comprised Zen, Taoist and Christian elements as well as the traditional Theravada schemata. He changed his name to ‘Buddhadasa’ – Pali for ‘Servant of the Buddha’. During Thailand’s turbulent 1970s, many Thai nationalists branded the monk a communist because of his sharp critiques of capitalism, which he saw as a catalyst for greed. Meanwhile, religious scholar Donald K Swearer compared Buddhadasa to the early Indian philosopher Nagarjuna for his reformist efforts. The great monk passed away in July 1993 after a long illness but his legacy lives on in the 120-hectare monastery and adjacent international meditation centre he founded in Chaiya. 26 | A PR I L 2014
In 2010, a private foundation opened Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives, an ambitious facility in Bangkok’s Vachirabenjatas Park – more commonly called Railway Park (Suan Rot Fai in Thai) near Chatuchak Weekend Market – to archive the monk’s prestigious literary legacy. The centre is sometimes referred to as ‘Suanmok Bangkok’. In keeping with Buddhadasa’s penchant for Zen teachings, the archives feature clean and simple lines, alternating unpolished and polished concrete in grey and black. An artificial lake along one side of the building adds a cooling effect. The structure almost ‘floats’ on the pond and breezes from the water are drawn into open-side pavilions and verandas attached to the archives. The only exterior decorative features consist of large terracotta plaques, facsimiles of didactic 2,000-year-old bas-reliefs found at the grand Buddhist stupas of Sanchi, Bharhut and Amaravati in India. On the day we visited, a traditional Thai music ensemble performed outdoors in an amphitheatre in one of the pavilions. The curved wall along the back of the amphitheatre is also decorated with terracotta bas-relief plaques, along with an over-sized copy of the famous Srivijaya Buddha figure from Chaiya. Volunteers dressed in white stroll the grounds daily, bangkok101.com
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available to answer questions and explain Buddhadasa’s natural approach to dhamma (the Buddha’s teachings). Printed publications are available in the ground-floor Dhamma Books & Media. In addition to many titles by Ajahn Buddhadasa, the shop carries books by Ajahn Cha, Ajahn Pasanno, Thich Nhat Hanh, Ajahn Jayasaro and Phra W Vajiramedhi. Most are in Thai, but there is a smattering of titles published in English, Spanish, French and German. On the second floor are two meditation rooms with large windows that provide stunning views over the park. A veranda outside the meditation rooms is decorated with a collection of photographs and enlarged reproductions of verses composed and hand-written by Ajahn Buddhadasa. Other Buddhist art is also exhibited on the walls of this floor, including temporary exhibits. The third floor is occupied by meeting rooms, reading rooms and the main archives, where a comprehensive collection of Buddhadasa’s original writings – including letters, poetry and journals – is archived. In total, it is estimated that the archives include 20,000 items classified as text, along with 50,000 drawings and 1900 gigabytes of voice recordings. The Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives Foundation is in the process of converting all bangkok101.com
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the documents into digital format and storing them on a database that will be made available online to members of the general public. Also on the third floor is a connected series of rooms containing large interactive exhibits. A pebbled walkway leads to the main room, dimly lit so that video projections – such as one showing drops of water going in and out of a pond – may be more comfortably viewed. The floor is strewn with meditation cushions and visitors are invited to sit down and quiet their minds while contemplating concepts of nibbana. A veranda accessed by automatic glass doors overlooks the lake, and is a good place for walking meditation. Bulletin boards on the ground floor post upcoming activities and events. One of the most prominent regular events is the Sunday morning “Dhamma in the Park” series, consisting of dhamma talks by visiting monks, discussion sessions organised by the Buddhadasa Book Club, along with meditation, Tai Chi and yoga workshops.
Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives (BIA)
[MAP 8/n2]
Kamphaeng Phet 1 Rd, Railway Park, Chatuchak District 02-936-2800 | bia.or.th
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Bizarre
Thailand
A 20-year resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has contributed to many guidebooks and is also the author of Tuttle Travel Pack Thailand. He compiled tales of the unexpected into a book called ‘Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic’. For more bytes and
pixels check out jimalgie.com.
nang nak
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he ghost of a woman who dies in childbirth — a phi tai hong thong klom — is regarded as the most fearsome of all phantoms in Thailand. In a scene from Nang Nak, the famous Thai horror movie based on the country’s most enduring ghost story, a terrified widower and a group of Buddhist monks are sitting on the floor of a temple chanting mantras to protect themselves when drops of water begin falling on them. They all look up to see the man’s dead wife standing upside-down on the ceiling of the temple, glowering at them while dripping sweat. At the ‘Temple of Mother Nak’ off Sukhumvit Road, where many believe her spirit still resides, a Thai man pointed out to me a strange indentation on the ceiling of the main shrine, declaring that this was the place where Nak once stood. Long before the Siamese even had surnames, the real Nak was supposedly born here in the middle of the 19th century. The village of Phra Khanong, once a patchwork of rice paddies crisscrossed with canals — some of which have still not been paved over — later became a district of the capital. As the legend and the 1999 film go, her husband Mak goes off to fight the Burmese, leaving his 28 | A PR I L 2014
pregnant wife behind. When they are reunited, Nak shows him their newborn son. But Mak is unable to understand why she is so aloof and keeps rejecting his overtures to make love. A few scenes later, when the couple are making love on the floor, the scene is edited together with a flashback of Nak dying while giving birth in the old Siamese way — sitting on the floor, her arms tied above her head, as beads of blood drip through the floorboards on to the head of a water buffalo tethered below the house. Never mind the supernatural sex that left audiences around the world gasping and murmuring “He’s sleeping with a ghost and doesn’t even know it!”. The scene was remarkable for the way it contained an entire revolution on the Buddhist Wheel of the Law: birth, death and rebirth. Such deaths were common in Nak’s day. In the film and the rural legend, Nak goes on a killing spree to keep the other villagers from exposing her secret to her husband. After watching her frightful and tender performance on-screen it was a shock to see that, in real life, the cinematic reincarnation of the country’s most famous ghost was a teenaged college girl with spiky tendrils of frosted blonde hair. Only 19 at the time, Inthira ‘Sai’ bangkok101.com
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Chareonepura radiated none of the menace she showed on-screen. Sitting in her school uniform of a black skirt and white blouse, beaming with smiles and politely answering questions, she could have been one of a million university students in the country. Sai noted that Nak’s story has been made into more than 20 different films, but the 1999 version was different because it focused more on the couple’s relationship. “The previous versions of Nang Nak are more about scary things and horror—not the love story,” she said. “But the director [Nonzee Nimibutr] wanted to make this a love story about Nak’s faithfulness to her husband as she waits for him. Even after she dies, she’s still worried about him and comes back to take care of him.” That’s true. What made this version a cut above the usual slasher-and-horror fare is the full-bodied romance. The climax is especially heart-rending when the couple is caught in the middle of a rainstorm while the Buddhist monk who moonlights as a ghost-hunter attempts to trap Nak’s spirit forever. Even the most oblique and subtle questions about the infamous sex scene turned Sai into a blushing schoolgirl. “Yes, giving birth in the old way... that wasn’t me. They bangkok101.com
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had a body double,” she said, before breaking into a fit of laughter. Since this was the most controversial part of the entire film, it certainly required an explanation. Further questions were answered by more giggles. So I asked her pointblank: “So was that really you rolling around on the floor?” You would’ve thought this was the funniest joke she had ever heard. Composing herself after another fit of hysterics, Sai managed to say, “Yes, that was me,” before explaining that many previous productions of the film were plagued with problems thought to have occult causes. That’s why cinemas once set up shrines to appease her spirit. One old movie house that did not follow this ritual was razed to the ground by a freak fire. As was, and still is the tradition, the whole cast and crew paid homage to her restless spirit before they shot the film, at the shrine behind the temple off Sukhumvit Soi 77 (officially known as Wat Mahabut). This is an excerpt from Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourism attractions. A PR I L 2014 | 29
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listings
HISTORIC HOMES ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall [map 8/F8] Uthong Nai Rd, opp Dusit Zoo Tue -Sun 10am-6pm | B150 Located at the tail-end of Dusit district’s stately ceremonial boulevard, Ratchadam noen, this stately parliamentary palace was built during the reign of Rama V and completed by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes by Italian Galileo Chini of royal ceremonies and festivities. Out front stands a statue of King Rama V still worshipped today.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE [map 4/A3]
M.r. KUKRIT’S HOUSE [map 5/H8] 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | 02-286-8185 Sat-Sun 10 am-5pm, Mon-Fri by appt B 50 / B 20 kids Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s mostloved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens is a terrific example of Thai architecture.
VIMANMEK MANSION [map 8/F8] 139 / 2 Ratchawithi Rd | 02-281-1569 9:30 am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms spread over three floors overlook a beautiful garden.
SUAN PAKKAD palace [MAP 8/K11]
Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 BTS National Stadium | 02-216-7368 suanpakkad.com | 9am-4pm | B100 jimthompsonhouse.com | 9am-5pm B100 / B 50 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden by Princess students American Jim Thompson was the Princeton Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed graduate and former spook who revived Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard the hand-woven Thai silk industry before pays testament to her dedication to disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Cameron Highlands in 1967. One of the things ERAWAN SHRINE [map 4/G5] to do in Bangkok is visit his tropical garden Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan home beside a pungent canal: six traditional BTS Chit Lom teak houses from around the country kept Don’t expect serenity here. This is one exactly as he left them.
of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group.
GANESHA SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside CentralWorld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd A prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.
TRIMURTI SHRINE [map 4/G3] Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store | Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is in the doldrums then this shrine is for you: at 9:30 pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.
SHRINES THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW [map 7/D10] Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang Tha Chang Pier | 02-222-0094 8:30am-4:30pm | B 400 Bangkok’s most beloved temple and top tourist site is a fantastical, mini-city sized royal complex enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls. Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it. Today, despite being able to visit many sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – the “Westerner in
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listings
a Thai hat” – is worth seeing, and there are some state halls and rooms open to visitors.
WAT ARUN [map 7/B13] Temple of Dawn, Arun Amarin Rd 02-465-5640 | watarun.org 8am-5pm | B 20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered in colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of the Khmer home of the gods.
WAT PO (reclining buddha) [map 7/D12]
Chetuphon, Thai Wang Rd 02-226-0369 | watpho.com 8am-noon, 1pm-9pm | B100 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images.
WAT MAHATHAT [map 7/C8] Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Maharat Rd 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm | Free An amulet market is situated near this 18th century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are
set up on the grounds to complement the vendors of traditional medicines.
WAT RATCHANATDA [map 7/K8] Mahachai Rd | 02-224-8807 9am-5pm | free This striking temple on the corner of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Road features the bizarre Loha Prasat, a multitiered castle-like structure with 36 steel spires. Climb the spiral staircase to the top for good views of the Old City and its many temples.
WAT SAKET [map 7/L8] Chakkraphatdiphong Rd 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat on a small hillock is worth the hike up 318 steps for the views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V later built a smaller chedi on top.
WAT SUTHAT & the GIANT SWING [map 7/H9] Bamrung Muang Rd | 02-222-9632 9am-5pm | B 20 Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to excellent examples of bronze sculpture. The city’s iconic Giant Swing, where brave men used to swing up to great heights to
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catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth during annual harvest ceremonies, sits out front.
WAT TRAIMIT [map 6/L3] 661 Mittaphap Thai-China Rd, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B 20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha. Its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.
MUSEUMS – IN TOWN BANGKOK DOLL MUSEUM [map 8/L11, 12]
85 Soi Ratchataphan (Soi Mo Leng). Ratchaprarop Rd 02-245-3008 | bangkokdolls.com Mon-Sat 8am-5pm | free Since opening in 1956 the Bangkok Doll Museum has continually attracted tourists, students and aficionados alike with its remarkable collection of hand-made Thai dolls. Founded by Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol after she completed a doll making course in Japan, it showcases collections of dolls produced by a small team of artisans in the atelier out back, and clad in traditional costumes based on designs lifted from museum originals, temple murals and illustrations from antique books.
bangkokian MUSEUM [MAP 5/E3] 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43, Si Phraya Pier | 02-233-7027 Sat-Sun 10am-4pm | free Smack in the middle of Bangrak, one of the most traditional districts of the city, find this oasis of four traditional Thai houses, one of them lovingly converted into a private museum by the compound’s charming owner, Ms Waraporn Surawadee. She decided to dedicate the place to the memory of her family and bygone daily life of Bangkok everymen – and open it to the public. While visitors shouldn’t expect breathtaking
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S N A P S H OT S
listings
revelations here, the displays are nevertheless surprisingly fascinating. They include antiques and ceremonial items.
Madame tussauds [map 4/C4] 6th F, Siam Discovery Centre Rama 1, Phaya Thai Rd BTS National Stadium | 02-658-0060 madametussauds.com/Bangkok 10am -9pm | B 800 / B 600 kids Probably the best thing about Bangkok’s version of Europe's famous waxwork museum is the line-up – it’s clearly designed to keep tourists and locals alike snappy happy. About as common as international sporting legends, world leaders in sharp suits, pouting Hollywood A-listers, and sequined global pop stars here are wax likenesses of Thai and regional musicians, soap stars, sportsmen and women.
MUSEUM OF COUNTERFEIT GOODS [MAP 2/E12] Supalai Grand Tower Bldg Rama III Rd 02-653-5555 | tillekeandgibbins.com Mon-Fri 10am-4pm ( App required for textile and computer collections) In 1989, Thailand’s oldest international law firm, Tilleke & Gibbins, decided to convert their evidence of counterfeit goods into educational tools for law students. To help spread the word about the perils of buying fake it's open to Joe Public too. Over 3,500 items – from Ferrero Rocher chocolates to antimalarial tablets and a fake Ferrari motorbike – are neatly laid out, forgeries next to the originals.
Museum of Siam [map 7/D13] 4 Samachai Rd | Rajini Pier 02-622-2599 | ndmi.or.th Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | Free A truncated history of Thailand unfurls through this down-with-the-kids discovery museum, located in a beautifully restored former government building that dates back to the 1920s. Design company Story Inc! delivered the conceptual design with 32 | A PR I L 2014
pop graphics and interactive games galore. Entertaining highlights include dressing up as a 20th-century nobleman, blowing up Burmese soldiers on elephant-back with a canon and mapping out the borders of your own Siam using a touch screen.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM [map 7/C6] 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang 02-224-1333 | thailandmuseum.com Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B 200 | no photo Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artifacts from all of Old Siam's main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama. The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also displayed.
RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL [map 7/K7] 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd, next to Wat Ratchanatda | 02-621-0044 nitasrattanakosin.com | Tue-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm | B100 This multimedia museum a short walk from Khao San Road offers a skillfully abbreviated introduction to an area that many admire, but few truly understand: Rattanakosin Island, Bangkok’s glittering birthplace. Wandering its eleven rooms – free of relics but rich in models, dioramas, interactive videos, text and audio clips in Thai and English – brings the area’s hardto-fathom history, arts, architecture and traditions into much clearer focus.
ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM [map 7/B4] 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd | Thonburi Railway Pier 02-424-0004 | 9am-5pm B 30 / B100 photo / B 200 video This collection of ornate royal barges,
some of which are up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near the Pinklao Bridge. The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya where the colourful crews can number up to 64, including rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and various musicians.
MUSEUMS – OUT OF TOWN ANCIENT SIAM (MUANG BORAN) [map 1/F6] 296/1 Sukhumvit Rd, Samut Prakan province | 02-709-1644 | ancientcity.com B 500 / B 250 kids / B1500 private guide in English for two hours Samut Prakan province’s Ancient Siam crams reproductions of over a hundred of the Kingdom’s most venerable palaces, temples, stupas, stone sanctuaries and traditional houses into a huge map-of-Siam shaped plot of land only an hour’s drive from the capital. Don’t come expecting a tacky themepark. Its late founder, eccentric culture preservationist Prapai Viriyahbhun, demanded that every replica look and feel like the real thing.
THAI FILM MUSEUM [MAP 1/E5] 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya Nakorn Pathom province nfat.org 02-482-2013-15 | Sat-Sun tours: 10am, noon, 3pm; MonFri: by appointment | Free The good folk at the National Film Archive of Thailand are fighting to preserve the country’s meagre film heritage, whether it be by restoring ragged reels of 16mm film to their former glory, screening rare films in its cinematheque, or guiding anyone interested around their museum. Film fiends will love inching around this space, modelled after the old Sri Krung film studio and filled with old cameras, props and costumes. bangkok101.com
Open daily Dinner 17:00-2:00 Cafe 6:00-17:00
Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung
buriram W
ithout a doubt this month’s most popular holiday is Songkran, the nearly week-long Thai New Year celebration during which every corner of the Kingdom gets consumed by large-scale water fights and almost no one is spared from a splashing. But even as Songkran commands most of the attention, there are several other festivals and events worthy of a look. One of the most awe-inspiring is the Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung Festival, held annually from April 4-6 at one of Thailand’s best-preserved ancient Khmer-style temples. At dusk between these dates crowds will gaze in awe at an astounding astro-archeological event: sunlight beaming through the doors of Buriram provinces’s Prasat Hin Khao Phanom Rung and onto a revered stone hidden deep in its main sanctuary. Marking this auspicious celestial phenomenon will be an invocation ritual known as buang suang, along with light and sound shows, and cultural performances. The sandstone and laterite temple dates back to sometime between the 9th and 13th centuries, with the central structure likely dating to the mid-12th century. Originally built as a Hindu shrine, the complex was later converted into a Buddhist religious site.
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up country now
Koh Samui Triathlon
Poi Sang Long
April 3-5 Poi Sang Long For three days the sleepy provincial town of Mae Hong Son hosts a colorful Burmese Shan tradition where young boys aged between 7 and 14 are ordained as novice Buddhist monks. On the first day, the boys have their heads shaved and are carried through the streets on the shoulders of male villagers before a riotous parade and a huge feast on the second and third days.
Hatyai Lantern Festival
April 27 Koh Samui Triathlon If breaking a sweat doesn’t scare you off, then cycle, run and swim through the exotic environment of Koh Samui in the 2014 Samui Triathlon. You can compete for cash prizes and afterwards relax on the sunny beaches of Koh Samui. You can find more information on the route, registration, rules, reservations and more at triathlonsamui.com.
April 7 Si Satchanalai Ordination Procession This mass ordination ceremony will take place in Sukothai’s Si Satchanalai district where novice monks clad in elaborate costumes will be transported on the backs of beautifully decorated elephants and paraded through the streets. The tribal tradition, which dates back some 150 years, finishes at Ban Haat Siao village’s main temple.
April 11-19 Phuket Bike Week 2014 For the 20th installment of this annual bike gathering, hundreds of hirsute easy riders will clog the roads leading to Phuket’s Patong Beach. To prove that they’re no Hells Angels, the organisers have a big programme of community events planned. There’ll be beach parties, live music, tattoo contests, tree plantings and bike exhibitions.
April 21-23 Krabi Rock and Fire International Contest 2014 Jutting out of the emerald green Andaman Sea, Krabi’s craggy limestone cliff formations are considered some of the world’s premier rock-climbing destinations, offering some 600 bolted routes. During this annual event, experienced spidermen and women from across the globe will clamber up them in pursuit of cash prizes and the admiration of the crowds below. 36 | A PR I L 2014
Krabi Rock and Fire International Contest
Until April 30 Hatyai Lantern Festival One of Thailand’s quirks is its love of luminous night lights and lanterns, which locals believe evoke the spirit world. Lanterns are used to embellish everything from city streets to shabby restaurants. At this after-dark festival, the tradition reaches its colourful zenith, with themed lamps lighting up Hat Yai Municipal Park between 5pm and 9pm each evening. bangkok101.com
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hotel review
Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok Just a short stroll from Phrom Phong BTS station, and practically across the street from Emporium, the new Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok offers another excellent luxury hotel option in upper Sukhumvit. The property’s design embraces a high-rolling 1920s Italian-American aesthetic, personified throughout the hotel in playful artworks depicting ‘fictional residents’ Jay and Daisy who, according to Hilton lore, represent Italian tourists who journeyed here 90 years ago. The hotel’s 280 comfortably furnished and wellproportioned guest rooms and suites include spacious glassed-in bathing areas with both waterfall and detachable showerheads, along with deep-soaking Kasch tubs. The glass wall adds a feeling of depth to the guest room, particularly when the window blinds are raised. High-end toiletries (bath gels, shampoos, conditioners, lotions, etc) come from Peter Thomas Roth. High-sheen wood panelling and vintage-style leather furniture add a further touch of elegance to the suites. One definite highlight of the property is its 26th-floor open-air pool deck known as Lapse, which features an infinity swimming pool that faces out over the city’s skyline. Poolside cabanas and sun chairs, along with comfortable, shaded sofas offer an ideal place to relax. Dining options at Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok include the fast-popular Scalini, serving fine Italian-American comfort foods in a cosy ambience of rich woods and softly glowing 38 | A PR I L 2014
lights. Scalini doubles as host of the hotel’s morning breakfast buffet. On the far end of the lobby, Mondo offers a wide selection of tapas dishes from all over the world, with an open kitchen that lends the space a kinetic feel. For cocktails, look no further than Study Room, the upscale outdoor bar specialising in classic and modern whisky-based drinks. It’s open daily until 1am. Executive Room guests also enjoy access to the hotel’s stylish Executive Lounge, which is outfitted in designer furniture and offers the ideal environment for relaxing or working. The Lounge also serves Executive Room guests complimentary breakfast as well as evening cocktails.
Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 02-620-6666 | Hilton.com
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hotel review
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Royal Orchid Sheraton
There’s no shortage of stylish, well-appointed five-star hotels in Bangkok – sure, the ones along Sukhumvit are in the heart of it all and there’s plenty to live about the glittering heights of Silom and Sathorn. But still, there’s something about watching the shadows lengthen along the banks of the Chao Praya, then taking it all in after dark, lit up like a Christmas tree, that feels even more like a real ‘Bangkok experience’; like this is definitely the spot. The cavernous foyer sets the bar high but it’s likely surpassed by the sweeping views from the rooms, which are spacious and comfortable without being over-the-top. The bathrooms are slick and modern, decked out in dark slate, while making the most of limited space. The bedrooms, by comparison are less snazzy but it’s the bed that matters most and these ones have a pillowy softness that runs several inches deep. Elsewhere in the hotel, there are some top-notch outlets to keep guests occupied and well-fed. One of the bestknown among Bangkok residents is Giorgio’s, a flagship Italian place with a vast terrace. One a still, clear evening, it’s hard to imagine many better spots to dine alongside the river and, of course, the food is pretty damn good as well. There’s a modern twist to many of the dishes but it’s the bangkok101.com
Italian staples that are the most satisfying. For example, the buffalo mozzarella with tomatoes and basil pesto seems straightforward but there’s a lightness and balance that truly impresses. The braised red wine beef, served with potatoes and green peas is more substantial and there’s a rich, almost velvety flavour that lingers on the tongue. If you fancy mixing it up, Giorgio’s also does a renowned buffet. Other outlets include Thang Thong, a gorgeous Thai restaurant fitted out with plenty of teakwood and specialising in royal cuisine. For the uninitiated, royal Thai can be a real eye-opener – matching the authenticity of traditional Thai food but the refined flavours and upscale technique that befits palace tastes. Sambal, the Royal Orchid Sheraton’s informal bar and grill, also boasts an attractive al fresco setting and does an inviting line in perfectly cooked seafood. Don’t over-eat, though, as you’re in the perfect location for a late-night stroll along the River of Kings.
royal orchid sheraton
[MAP 5/c2]
2 Captain Bush Lane, New Rd 02-266-0123 | royalorchidsheraton.com
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the sweetest winds blow
south
up country escape
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Offering an intriguing mixture of food, drink and natural beauty, Hua Hin is once again emerging as a boutique destination for Bangkokians BY TOM STURROCK
A
plume of red dust shoots up into the air as my teenage Thai guide executes a well-practised burn-out on his mud-flecked quad bike. He feints right but then, turning on a five-cent piece, accelerates hard left, leaving me to make a clunky, wide-arching turn through thick scrub to follow him. Out of the corner of my eye, I see him looking over his shoulder at me, the hint of a smile visible through the haze thrown up in his wake. We hammer on, along bumpy backroads and wornout, unsealed surfaces. The greenery lining these paths is probably too sparse to be described as ‘jungle’ – still, the tightly clustered palms and unruly head-high ferns form an impressive canopy. It’s late afternoon at Hua Hin Safari Park, a mere 5km from the city centre. We’ve already taken in some feats of derring-do involving Thai snake handlers, mahouts and their mounts and some surprisingly impressive stunts – even if you’re not particularly big on animal theme parks – involving life, limb and crocodiles. But right now, it’s all about the quad bikes. And keeping up with up with my cocky little pacesetter. Once upon a time, Hua Hin was Thailand’s number one resort town. Admittedly, it had the advantage of being the first: when they began building railways out of Bangkok, the route to Hua Hin – 200km south of the capital, nestled on the west coast of the Gulf – was straight off the production line. Its original name, Samo Riang, means ‘rows of rocks’; for the jagged, misshapen lumps that form a dotted line along the city’s main beach. For years, the Thai royal family has kept holiday residences in Hua Hin. Indeed, it remained popular with Thais throughout the rapid boom in tourism that drew foreign tourists and – and investment – to the islands further south and to the other side of the Gulf. As a result, Hua Hin was often pigeonholed as sleepy or unsophisticated. Of late, though, it has emerged as a boutique weekend getaway destination for those who don’t necessarily think over-developed beachfronts are the best Thailand has to offer. Thai wine may not be widely appreciated in Bangkok’s best restaurants but a visit to Hua Hin Hills vineyard suggests this is more a matter of perception than a problem of objective quality. It helps that the land is so strikingly picturesque. The winery itself is a mere patch on the lush, rolling, green carpet. Rows of seasonal grapes extend out from the central sala where visitors fill the terrace for lunch: a cracking selection of fresh seafood and richer game servings, expertly paired with the Monsoon Valley wines produced here. After lunch, I clamber into the back of a truck and rattle off for a tour of the grounds. We weave between A PR I L 2014 | 41
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up country escape
the tangled vines, where a crew of elephants help with the heavy lifting, round a thick line of mango trees and past a greenhouse full of hydroponically grown vegetables. Having tasted the wine – and resoundingly approved – and then explored the gorgeous setting, it’s odd that Thai wine hasn’t been more successful in making its mark. A matter of time, perhaps. The appeal of this neighbourhood is not limited to Hua Hin; it extends further south to the provincial pockets of Pranburi and Kui Buri. While central Hua Hin has rapidly adapted to accommodate those seeking a more sedate alternative to Bangkok without sacrificing the five-star comforts or vibrant after-dark street life, the outlying territories retain plenty of local charm, a broad swathe of farmland and fishing villages. Pranburi is home to Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, one of the major local attractions. The uphill trek, which begins from a dusty carpark and a dishevelled market that ebbs and flows unpredictably, is broken into two parts, each taking about 20 minutes. About halfway over the first rise, with the midday sun beating down, I meet a team of three of four Thai guys coming the opposite way, each carrying a bucket of freshly caught fish on their backs. They don’t appear to have broken a sweat. Stopping for a breather, I ask: “How much further?” “Not far. Not far,” the first replies; “It’s worth it,” the second adds. The third just laughs, a shrill chuckle that hangs in the air even after they all disappear behind me. The first descent ends at a wide beach, pockmarked with spindly palms, a rickety Thai restaurant assuming pride of place on a deserted beachfront. I pass a neat row of cottages where the sand turns to grass, presumably accommodation for locals who work in the park. The trail leads toward the second rise, past a monk camping onsite, hanging out his washing to dry next to his orange tent. Another half-hour’s walk up the hill, steeper than the first, pays off when the path dips then widens then dips down again into the expanses of the Phraya Nakorn cave.
Remarkable formations of grey-brown rock frame two vast connected clearings covered with smooth sand, except in parts where erosion has created openings overhead, allowing rain and sunlight to pour through and isolated patches of wild greenery to sprout below. Not much from outside this buried cocoon penetrates the stillness, although a couple of persistent but friendly dogs seem happy to follow visitors – and the promise of food. Down here, the quiet is interrupted only by the echoing crunch of paws on sand. Back on safari, the sun begins to wane but the heat in the air lingers. My quad bike bumps and bounces as I accelerate over thick ridges of dried mud, trying to prevent my guide from shooting too far out in front. We turn a corner and rapidly approach a four-way junction. By now, I’m wise to this guy’s moves. Determined not to be taking in once again by his four-wheeled trickery, I wait for him to commit left before steering to follow his lead. But then, at the last minute, he spins back to complete an extravagant 360-degree circle around me and speed off in the direction we came. I’m left flat-footed and bewildered in the middle of the crossroads and can only watch as he races away in the lengthening shadows and disappears against the silhouette of Hua Hin’s majestic hills.
STAYING THERE Away Hua Hin – Pranburi Boutique Resort (83 Moo 1, Baan Mai, Sam Roi Yot; 03-282-5080; awayresorts.com) overlooks a quiet beach south of Hua Hin and is one of the more charming smaller resorts in the area. There’s a selection of villas and stilted huts to choose from – these are low-key but still entirely comfortable and cosy. There’s also a glittering swimming pool (pictured left) for a morning dip and an excellent on-site restaurant. X2 Kui Buri (52 Moo 13, Ao Noi Sub-district; 03-2601412; x2lobby.com) ratchets up the glamour with its range of uber-modern private villas (pictured right). This place is seriously cool and, if you feel like splashing out, make sure you grab a place with your own pool. The resort is located on a vast plot of land and boasts a fascinating design. There are plenty of activities on offer within the resort and the staff are some of the friendliest you’ll meet. The local motorbike tour is a must. 42 | A PR I L 2014
Le Bayburi Pranburi (306-9 Beach Front Rd, Pak Nam Pran, Pranburi; 3263 0636; lebayburi.com) is equally lavish and design-driven, offering four private two-storey villas right on the beach. They’re perfect for groups looking to get out of Bangkok and explore this part of the world while relaxing in style. All the villas are beautifully refurbished with such sleek, striking interiors that you’ll be tempted to stay in and make the most of the poolside bar and barbeque. bangkok101.com
TANTALISE YOUR TASTE BUDS THIS FESTIVE SEASON
Indian (North South East & West) | Thai | Indo Chinese | Sweets & Savouries Jain Food is also available
Bangkok Outlet: Sukhumvit Soi 20 (Near Windsor Hotel) Bangkok 10110 Tel: 02 401 8484
Saras_march14.indd 1
PATTAYA Outlet: 557, Sun City Hotel, Pratumnak Rd., Pattaya Tai (South) Tel: 038 424 769
Email/Web: www.saras.co.th Facebook: www.facebook.com/SarasVegFood
2/18/14 10:04 AM
Anchored in the
arts
With its unique street art and other cultural highlights, Penang’s historic George Town is turning into a centre for creativity BY JOE CUMMINGS
over the border
T
he well-known charm of its crumbling colonial and post-colonial architecture was a drawcard for George Town, Penang’s capital, even before Unesco added the historic city centre to its World Heritage Site Listing in 2008. Broad swathes of exposed brick and flaking stucco, framed by some of Southeast Asia’s most elaborate Straits Settlement-style architecture, preserved but not necessarily restored, stand block after block. But once one has thoroughly explored that backdrop, one might start wondering if there’s any life in the old city, something beyond the town’s justly famed street food stalls and souvenir shops. On a recent visit to the island capital for the first edition of Tropfest SEA, I find that the new Penang branch of the short film festival is only one among several new directions George Town is heading. Under the guidance of rocker, scholar and novelist (his first novel, Nazi Goreng, deals with Malay skinhead gangs) Marco Ferrarese, I ramble through George Town’s historic centre to discover a whole new dimension to the city, in which old buildings become striking canvases for street art. This fast-rising local trend was kicked off in 2012 by Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic, who was commissioned by George Town Festival to create a series of murals around town. He soon became known as ‘Malaysia’s answer to Banksy’. Signed “Zach”, his wall paintings typically interact with existing three-dimensional elements of local architecture. Sometimes he adds items he has salvaged locally to add bangkok101.com
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a further dimension. An rusting bicycle, wired to a wall on Armenian Street, becomes a prop atop which figures of two local children have been brushed on to the wall using high-quality, water-based paints. Called Two Kids On A Bike, this and other lighthearted works by Zacharevic have become popular icons, with both locals and tourists seeking them out to take photos of themselves standing alongside.
“in george town’s historic centre, old buildings have become striking canvasses for street art” Since his success in George Town, the artist has been invited to paint murals in many other sites around the world, including Stavanger, Norway, Singapore, Venice, Florence, Brussels and Kuala Lumpur. In spite of his growing acclaim, the Lithuanian says he still prefers to keep George Town as a base, citing the city’s “amazing people, mind-blowing food, breathtaking scenery and rich cultural heritage”. His work has given rise to a slew of local imitators who bring along props and paint boxes to add their own art to available blank walls. In reference to the trend, Zacharevic says: “Copying is just an inevitable short-term reaction to any successful project and it does not bother me. I’m happy that my works have sparked a debate about art A PR I L 2014 | 45
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education and art in general in Malaysia and hopefully it will inspire young artists to explore.” At night, Ferrarese introduces me to Soundmaker, an underground club and recording studio that opened in an old warehouse on Weld Quay Rd seven years ago. On the Friday night we turn up we are treated to a masterful performance by local post-rock band The Color Noise, whose members include players of Indian, Chinese and Malay descent. Ferrarese, who is writing a PhD thesis on extreme music in Malaysia, says Soundmaker is the country’s most powerful centre of punk, metal, thrash and alternative rock. He says the owner skirts the strict midnight noise curfew by holding matinee shows on weekends. The club has also hosted a stream of Western punk bands passing through Southeast Asia. Supporting Penang’s streams of musical and visual creativity is the annual George Town Festival, which began in 2008 to commemorate Penang’s inclusion on Unesco’s world heritage list. In its five years of existence, the festival has put Penang on the map for its impressive range of art, music, dance, theatre, and film programmes, drawing around 200,000 art and culture enthusiasts from all over the world. The next festival with extend the entire month of August 2014. No visit to George Town is complete without diving into the variety of tasty foods available from local street vendors, cafes and restaurants. I indulge in one of my favourite Penang traditions, nasi kandar, a popular meal of rice served with a variety of side dishes, at Line Clear Nasi
Kandar, a 24-hour joint in a narrow alley off Jalan Penang. I’m amazed to pay only the equivalent of 65 baht for a massive plate of steamed rice, fried chicken, omelette, vegetables and kuah banjir (a mix of curry sauces). Roti canai (roti bread with curry) is something I always seek out for breakfast in Malaysia, and this time I track down George Town’s most famous morning roti source, Kani Cafe Stall, on Jalan Transfer. I order chewy egg roti with a curry stocked with tender chunks of chicken and a meaty, flavourful gravy. Architecture, cuisine, art and music. By the time Tropfest is over and I’m headed for the airport, I’m making a vow to myself to return to George Town as soon as I can.
SOUTHEAST ASIAn short cuts Originally organised at The Tropicana Cafe in Sydney, Australia in 1993, Tropfest is the world’s largest short film festival with franchises expanding from New York to Abu Dhabi. This year, Tropfest added Southeast Asia to the roster, holding the inaugural festival in George Town last January. The competition was presided over by a panel of industry expert judges, including Oscar-winning director Adam Elliot, Legally Blonde director Robert Luketic, top Singaporean director Glen Goei, Hong Kong International Film Festival festival director Roger Garcia, and Bangkok World Film Festival director Victor Silakong. Tropfest SEA also receives support from the National Film Development Corporation Malaysia and the
46 | A PR I L 2014
Malaysia Convention & Exhibition Bureau (MyCEB) under Malaysia’s Ministry of Tourism and Culture. On January 17, 2014, a crowd of more than 4,000 attendees viewed the 12 shorts in competition on a massive outdoor screen in The Esplanade, a large grassy seaside park. For its first edition, the festival mandated that all films relate to the subject of rice in some fashion. Cambodian director Sothea Ines walked away with the top prize for her film, Rice. The 24-year-old, first-time filmmaker’s seven-minute film revolved around five orphan boys living and working in a Khmer Rouge labour camp in the late 1970s. The boys stealthily horde a few grains of rice day by day to stave off starvation, only to be caught and punished by the camp commander. Another Cambodian, Polen Ly, took first runner-up with his silent short, Duetto, while Ezequial Paolinelli, a Malysian resident originally from Italy, was named second runner up for his entry, The Last Flight. In addition to the film screenings, Tropfest SEA hosted live musical performances from Paperplane Pursuit, Paladin and White Shoes & the Couples Company. Surrounding the screening area of Esplanade was a variety of vendors offering local food and beverage. On the two days leading up to the competition screenings, the festival hosted a series of wellorganised and very well attended workshops with regional filmmakers. bangkok101.com
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portraits of myanmar Thirty-eight paintings completed between 1995 and 2005 reflect artist Myint Swe’s concerns about the discouraging socio-political environment in Myanmar during those years, including Aung San Suu Kyi’s long-term detention. Due to their overtly political nature, the paintings needed to be secretly transported to Bangkok, where they have been kept in storage… until now. With vast political changes sweeping through the country, Burma: The Quiet Violence will be showing at Thavibu Gallery (F4 Silom Galleria Building, 919/1 Silom Road; 02-266-5454; thavibu.com) from April 26-May 24, allowing viewers to reflect not only on where Myanmar has been, but why it changed, and where it might be heading now that it is largely free of its shackles. The 58-year-old artist Myint Swe can now safely travel to Bangkok – something that would not have been possible just a few years ago – making the exhibition especially timely and relevant. Myint Swe has studied under some of Myanmar’s most noted modern-day painters, including U Lun Gwye and S Tin Shwe, and his work has been strongly influenced by the paintings and philosophies of U Thein Han, one of the most important pioneers of Myanmar modern painting practices. Curated by Shireen Naziree, this exhibition marks another decisive step forward for the country, and is sure to inspire a great deal of reflection.
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A R T & C u lt u r e
exhibitions
Under construction
numthong gallery at aree [MAP 8/H7] 72/3 Aree 5 North, Phahonyothin 7, Phahoyonthin Rd 02-617-2794 | Mon-Sat 11am-6pm | gallerynumthong.com
Until April 12 In a new solo exhibition, Kwanchai Lichaikul explores the meanings behind the country’s current political and economic situation by portraying imaginary urban environments that are representative of today’s society. These paintbrush drawings depict a chaotic world based on reality.
LOST IN PARADISE
kathmanu photography gallery [MAP 5/e5] 876 Pan Rd | 02-234-6700 Tues-Sun 11am-7pm | kathmandu-bkk.com
Until April 21 As rural workers have flocked to Bangkok in recent years in search of opportunity, many have been disillusioned by what they found here. Lek Kiatsirikajorn’s desolate landscapes frame the people passing through them, often set against towering skyscrapers in the background.
the state of impermanence ardel’s third place gallery [MAP 3/S7] 137-137/1 Thong Lor Soi 10 | 02-422-2092 Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm | ardelgallery.com
Until April 27 Thamrongsak Nimanussornkul’s abstract silkscreen prints guide viewers through the Buddha’s teachings about the uncertainty of life, birth, existence and death. The portrayal of these ideas is made in a calm and serene manners using colours that reflect the artist’s feelings.
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Where’s my head? La lanta fine art [MAP 3/K8] 245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02-204-0583 Tues-Sun 10am-7pm | lalanta.com
Until April 30 British contemporary artist Thomas Donaldson presents a series of visceral paintings of human forms and faces. Through his dynamic use of texture and colour, the artist attempts to suggest through his work that one cannot fully know or experience the reality of another person.
play
ardel gallery of modern art [MAP 2/a8] Boromrachachonnanee Rd | 02-422-2092 Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | ardelgallerycom
April 21-May 8 Oil paintings inspired by the iconic cover design of Playboy magazine form the basis of Tawatchai Somkong’s latest exhibition. Visitors also will encounter a collection of photos and articles that have been compiled in an artistic replica of a magazine.
capturing moments 100 tonson gallery [MAP 4/J7] 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | 02-684-1527 Tues-Sat 11am-7pm | 100tonsongallery.com
April 24-June 15 Each teak sculpture in this exhibition has been handcrafted without the use of electric tools. Artist Utai Nopsiri, embracing a medium that has fascinated him throughout his life, presents eight works reflecting Eastern philosophies such as Buddhism and Taoism.
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LIFE
ON THE
STREET One Spanish artist uses glass painting to recast Bangkok in technicolour BY TOM STURROCK
exhibitions
A R T & C u lt u r e
“bangkok is a city where people are always on the street – you never feel alone”
A
lthough the scenes of chaos that appear throughout the streets of Bangkok provided the inspiration for Daniel Monfort Gil’s new exhibition, Bangkok, Anytime, his distinctive glass-painting technique owes to his native Barcelona. In the Catalan capital, the brightly coloured posters of Casas and Gaudí remain as monuments to the city’s love affair with modernism. But when Monfort Gil moved to Bangkok more than four years ago, trading one of the world’s most liveable cities for another, he brought glass painting with him. “When I say I am painting glass, people think it is glass like in the windows of a cathedral but it’s not like that,” he says. “Those paintings are translucent, you can see through them. I have to paint layers. First you do the details, the shapes. Because if you paint something first, and then another layer, you cannot remove the first part. “I had been to Bangkok many times on holidays and liked it – I like the lifestyle. Bangkok is always catching you a little bit. Finally, I decided to move here. Bangkok is a city where people are always on the street – you never feel alone.” Even within a relatively short time in Bangkok, Monfort Gil has observed changes in the cityscape. “It’s totally different already. If you come every year you probably don’t see it but if you stay away and then come back, the change is quite shocking,” he says. “There are many more skyscrapers, many more shopping malls. People look a little more stressed.” It is with these changes in mind that Monfort Gil seeks out certain tableaus within Bangkok. While he is drawn to scenes of social interaction, he also searches for details that may soon disappear. “The first thing for me is always the people,” he says. “What are they doing? People selling food or the chaos on the street – when you’re living here you get used to it but I think it takes people by surprise when they first come here. bangkok101.com
“I also look for things that we see now but maybe we won’t see them any more in the future. The market atmosphere or the way people cook on the street. Maybe in a decade that will not be the same.” “People are cooking sticky rice in a certain kind of basket – maybe they will have a machine to do that soon.” Monfort Gil’s background is in graphic design and, although the vibrant colours and swirl of activity in his paintings are the most immediately noticeable aspects, closer inspection reveals scrupulous attention to detail. The lines, Monfort explains, are all hand-drawn – which makes buildings with their myriad windows, doorknobs and balconies particularly time-consuming and fiddly. “Sometimes people look at my work and think that it has been done by computer,” he says. “But it’s not, every line has been done by hand. It’s more complicated. “The most difficult thing is when there are a lot of line that need to be parallel. I need it to be quiet, and sometimes maybe stop for 30 minutes. It took me a long time, maybe three years to finish all these pieces.” From now until the end of the month, Monfort Gil’s labour of love – about 30 pieces – is showing at Serindia Gallery. For those who has found themselves intoxicated by the street life of this city, it’s rare to see these recognisable scenes wrought in such flamboyant shades and exquisite, mind-boggling detail.
BANGKOK, ANYTIME UNTIL APRIL 30 SERINDIA GALLERY
[MAP 5/c3]
OP Garden Soi Charoenkrung 36 | 02-238-6410 serindiagallery.com | Tues-Sun 11am-6pm
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cheat notes
Pok Pok: Food and Stories from the Streets, Homes, and Roadside Restaurants of Thailand By Andy Ricker with JJ Goode (photography by Austin Bush)
This new cooking guide offers a wonderful window into the diverse world of Thai cuisine. Its author, Andy Ricker is the inspiration behind the Pok Pok restaurants in Portland, Oregon and New York City. The book collects nearly 70 recipes over 13 chapters, including stories from Ricker’s travels and profiles of his Thai mentors, making Pok Pok part-cookbook, part-travelogue. The majority of his time learning the classics of Thai cuisine was spent in northern Thailand, so the book doesn’t shy away from provincial classics. A retro design, a practical approach to the recipes and naturalistic photos also give Pok Pok a distinctly Thai flavour and the edge over any other Thai cookbook on the market.
the Ballad of a Small Player By Lawrence Osborne
Bangkok resident Lawrence Osborne’s latest novel is told through the inimitable voice of first-person narrator Lord Doyle, a mysterious conman who flees England with an embezzled fortune bent on pressing his luck at the high-stakes gaming tables of Macau. Against a backdrop of odds and superstitions, Lord Doyle sparks a romance with a Chinese prostitute named Dao-Ming Tang whom he meets one night playing baccarat. Who is this enigmatic girl and what does she represent? The Ballad of a Small Player is a brisk, lively read, driven by the sort of atmospheric mood and incisive observations that have propelled Osborne to the best-seller lists. His previous novel, The Forgiven, was named one of The Economist’s best books of 2012, and Bangkok Days, a travel memoir, was also a huge success.
A R T & C u lt u r e
7 Days in Myanmar
By 30 Great Photographers (Project Director Melisa Teo, General Editor Nicholas Grossman) Featuring stunning original photographs of Myanmar taken by 30 of the world’s leading photographers, 7 Days In Myanmar, a new multimedia project from Singapore-based EDM, depicts the country over a single week in 2013. The 276-page book includes works by some of the most legendary names in photography: Steve McCurry, Michael Yamashita, Michael Freeman, Bruno Barbey, Raghu Rai and many more, whose combined efforts represent perhaps the most comprehensive pictorial portrait every created of this once isolated nation. With essays on Myanmar’s history and culture and over 300 outstanding original images, 7 Days In Myanmar shows why the world is watching Myanmar and why Myanmar is ready for the world.
Pee Mak Phrakanong Banjong Pisanthanakun | 2013 | DVD159 The highest-grossing Thai film of all time took home more than one billion baht at the country’s box offices last year. Part-horror, part-comedy, the film stars heartthrob Mario Maurer as a 19thcentury Siamese soldier who returns home from war unaware that his wife has died during childbirth and is now a ghost. The storyline hails from a familiar Thai folk epic that was previously made into numerous other film versions, although none as popular as last year’s. Directed by Banjong Pisanthanakun, Pee Mak Phrakanong is finally available with English subtitles.
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FOOD & DRINK photofeature
No.1 Nahm
No.3 Gaggan
No.21
Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin
No.28 Bo.lan
No.31
Issaya Siamese Club
No.37 Eat Me
Pictured left: Nahm
Steamed marbled goby Nahm
Dhokla Gaggan
Miang kham cornette Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin
Yum pla som Bo.lan
Mussamun gae Issaya Siamese Club
Grilled tiger prawns Eat Me
SHIRAUO SALAD ytsb p68
AROy SEASONAL SPECIALTY
Celebrate the Thai New Year and cool down with Thailand’s classic summer treat khao chae at Miss Siam Restaurant in Hua Chang Heritage Hotel (400 Phayathai Road, 02217-0777, huachangheritagehotel.com). Enjoy the delicious sweetness of the chilled rice in jasmine-scented water served with a range of delicious accompanying side dishes including deep-fried shrimp paste balls, stuffed sweet peppers and shredded sweet pork. Prices are B220 for dine-in and B255 for take-away, available through April 24.
SUMMER FOOD FESTIVAL
Throughout April, Erawan Tea Room at Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok (494 Ratchdamri Road, 02-254-1234, bangkok.grand.hyatt.com) will host a summer food festival featuring seasonal favourites like khao chae (steamed rice in jasmine-scented ice water with condiments), khao mun som tam (green papaya salad with coconut-flavoured rice), and mieng goong (crispy shrimp salad with betel leaves). Beat the summer heat with the authentic flavours of these true Thai delights, among others.
BIGGER BETTER BUFFET
Orchid Café at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (250 Sukhumvit Road, 02-649-8355, luxurycollection.com) has launched a new dinner buffet featuring a massive spread of Thai and international cuisines. Offered every evening from Sunday to Thursday, the buffet is priced at B750 (B450 for children), while for an additional B230 guests can enjoy their choice of main course dishes including grilled meat, pasta, baked fish of the day, and more.
COOL DOWN WITH KHAO CHAE
Welcome the arrival of summer with the traditional Thai delicacy khao chae (chilled rice in jasmine-scented water with condiments) at Sala Rim Naam in Mandarin Oriental Bangkok (48 Oriental Ave Alley, 02-437-3080, mandarinoriental.com/bangkok). The seasonal specialty pairs the deliciously sweet jasmine-scented water with the distinctive flavours of fried sweet peppers, stuffed shallots, salty beef or other condiments.
IN THE GARDENS
Set within a former royal residence known as ‘Wang Dinsor’, The Gardens brings together four atmospheric restaurants amid wonderful gardens and fountains in a building that has recently been carefully and thoughtfully renovated. The eateries here include Gabriel’s Bistro & Grill, Rendez Vous French Fine Dining, Napolean Bakery & Cafe and Aspen Steak House (coming soon). With so many different cuisines to choose from, The Gardens is an ideal spot for lunch, dinner or corporate parties. bangkok101.com
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meal deals
LA CUISINE’S NEW ITALIAN SET FURAMA EXCLUSIVE SUKHUMVIT 27 Sukhumvit Soi 1 | 02-255-4224 | furamaxclusive.com/sukhumvit Three diverse choices of the newest Italian set menus are offered at B469 for lunch and dinner. The price includes a glass of red wine, coffee or tea. Guests can choose their main course from a choice of tenderloin steak, grilled salmon steak or lamb steak, served with soup and salad perfectly paired with each scrumptious main dish.
GOLDEN SUCKLING PIG PROMOTION DUSIT THANI BANGKOK 946 Rama IV Road | 02-200-9000 | dusit.com You do not have to fly thousands of miles to experience authentic Chinese signatures, as The Mayflower has just announced its suckling pig promotion, available throughout April. Diners can enjoy Hong Kong-style barbecued suckling pig or, alternatively, stir-fried pork with Hong Kong noodles and XO sauce served with Shao Xing Chinese spirit. The price starts at B3000.
FRIULI SEASON IS BACK AT GROSSI INTERCONTINENTAL BANGKOK 973 Phloen Chit Rd | 02-656-0444 | intercontinental.com After amazing feedback last year, the promotion returns with a new and interesting recipe but using the same fresh and premium ingredients. Foie gras with green asparagus and caramelised onion served with port wine sauce is one of the tempting dishes that you can sample. Enjoy the original Italian dish for B700 until May 31.
THAI CLASSIC SUMMER TREAT AT CELADON THE SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | sukhothai.com Celadon invites guests to cool off from the heat with khao chae, a traditional Thai classic summer treat, which will be served with assorted hand-crafted condiment selections such as fried stuffed shallots with ground catfish, steamed stuffed bell pepper with minced pork and shrimp. The traditional lunch is offered for B890 per set until the end of April.
THAI REGIONAL SPECIALTIES BANYAN TREE BANGKOK 21/100 South Sathon Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com A unique menu featuring dishes from four different regions of Thailand is created with its distinctive flavours and levels of spiciness at Saffron. Specialties such as crispy Phuket noodlewrapped prawn and northern-style egg noodle curry beef accompanied with vermicelli salad are just some of the highlights that will spice up your summer.
GALANGAL CUISINE AT BASIL SHERATON GRANDE SUKHUMVIT 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8888 | sheratongrandesukhumvit.com Chef Kesinee of Basil invites you to explore a selection of special galangal, such as wok-fried soft shell crab with curry paste and young galangal, stir-fried pork spare ribs with shrimp paste and spring galangal, flaky and delicately flavoured steamed snow fish in a galangal and lime sauce. The healthy meal ends with steamed sago with a mung bean and galangal filling.
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review
FOOD & DRIN K
W DOES BRUNCH
- The hippest kitchen table The new high-energy weekend brunch at W Bangkok features all the hallmarks of the world’s most chic hotel brand: live DJs spinning music, fine gastronomy and creative cocktails, and, of course, the alwaysfashionable W crowds. Launched on March 1, W Does Brunch is slated to continue on the first Saturday of each month. Why Saturdays? Because the upbeat, all-day-long food and booze feast is designed to be a central focus of your weekend – not the dreary end of it. “To us this is much more than a casual lunch experience,” says Jacob de Boer Dorrego, food and beverage director for W Bangkok. “It is all about socialising and feeling the vibrancy of the space. No rush, no hurries, it’s all about making the first Saturday of the month a true highlight.” Brunch kicks off at 12.30pm and lasts nearly till dinner time at 4:30pm. The all-you-can-eat buffet with unlimited booze costs B2800, while the teetotaler option (food and soft drinks only) costs B2200. Among the highlights of the expansive buffet – the sprawling set-up covers such a vast area that each guest is provided with an indoor/outdoor map of the second floor – are the king crab legs and other super-fresh seafood, the classic bangkok101.com
eggs Benedict, and the wide selection of sliced meats, such as prosciutto, and unique cheeses. Pad thai is served from a free-standing food cart in takeaway cartons, and while the optional shredded chicken isn’t entirely authentic, the pad thai itself is. Meanwhile, the “hot counter” gets high marks for its wood-fired pizzas, oven-baked snow fish and pumpkin gnocchi, while the BBQ grilled skewers are also a hit. Whether you’re nursing a hangover, or looking to sow one for later in the day, W Does Brunch has you covered with refreshing gin and tonics, sparkling mimosas, high-octane martinis and more. With natural sunlight pouring in through The Kitchen Table’s second-story windows, it is an ebullient, invigorating environment for a Saturday afternoon tipple. Lastly, we would be remiss not to mention the dessert spread, where the highlight – at least judging by the parade of happy-faced children we saw during our meal there – is a fresh cotton-candy maker. BY BILL BREDESEN
KITCHEN TABLE [MAP 5/g7] W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd | 02-344-4000 Brunch – 12.30pm-4.30pm | whotelbangkok.com A PR I L 2014 | 67
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review
YTSB - Get your sushi fix If Japanese style can sometimes be a touch conservative – all straight lines and shiny black surfaces – YTSB offers a welcome departure with a much warmer, more open interior that makes great use of dark wooden furnishings and softer edges. It’s a truly inviting space, overlooking busy Phayathai Road. Naturally, you’ll want to start with a cocktail and YTSB – which stands for Yellow Tail Sushi Bar – capitalises on its location in the VIE Hotel. One of the stand-out signature cocktails is the Ginza Strip (B260), which is a dry sake martini, sweetened with basil and topped with a hint of cucumber. It’s refreshing and easy to drink but still with a kick. The other lipsmacker is the YTSB Mojito (B260), which, as the name suggests, begins as a straightforward mojito but is elevated by the inclusion of sakura syrup and, more importantly, umeshu, a Japanese plum liqueur that is such a useful ingredient it’s a wonder it’s not more widely used. But it’s all about the sushi here and when the platter of sakura sushi (B1800, pictured right) arrives, it doesn’t fail to impress. There are some well-executed old favourites in there – the yellow tail, the king crab and the giant shrimp – but also a few surprises. The strip of sea eel, for example, has its own distinctive flavour while the sea urchin, wrap up in a seaweed cylinder is rich and delicate all at once. It’s definitely one to eat slowly and savour. The aburi sushi platter (B960) also has an intriguing 68 | A PR I L 2014
selection, the blue fin served up lashed with sauce alongside a tender strip of squid. At the other end of the spectrum, the shirauo salad (B420) delivers some satisfying crunch, combining deep-fried ice fish, salad leaves and white miso dressing. It’s light yet still flavourful, the seafood taste offset deliciously by the miso tang. This dish is an absolute winner – we’ll be scanning all Japanese menus for it in future. Japanese cuisine isn’t renowned for its desserts but the chocolate daifuku-mochi (B200) is as sweet and indulgent as any French pastry. For the uninitiated, it’s a rice cake stuffed with chocolate cream – a Japanese riff on the éclair. If you fancy kicking on after you’ve had your fix of sushi, you can always head next door into the hotel’s main building for a nightcap or two at the VIE bar. BY TOM STURROCK
ytsb
[MAP 8/j12]
3F VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phayathai Rd | 02-309-3939 facebook.com/YTSB.BKK | 6pm-11pm
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review
chili hip
- Some like it hot On the 20th floor of Centara Watergate Pavilion Hotel, the al fresco rooftop eatery Chili Hip attracts a connected young clientele with its upbeat DJ tunes, casual, minimalist décor and reasonable prices. For partygoers, it is also a one-stop shop as the swanky lounge bar Walk is located one floor higher, accessible by an outdoor staircase. Chili Hip enjoys wide, unobstructed views from its perch over Pratunam, and the menu consists mostly of authentic Thai and Asian flavours. There is almost no covered seating, so bear that in mind when the rains come. The restaurant does offer one private, four-seat, air-conditioned room enclosed in glass walls, perfect for a small party. A different DJ plays at Chili Hip every night of the week, spinning everything from hip-hop and R&B on Fridays and Saturdays to more laid-back soul music on Sundays. Menu standouts include the spicy salmon tartar with fried sticky rice (B260). The fish is prepared with just the right mix of lime, chili, mint and coriander, while the sticky rice adds a nice texture. The hot kimchi and tofu soup is another notable choice, not too spicy but with a deliciously sour broth. The steamed seabass fillet with coconut likewise draws high 70 | A PR I L 2014
praise, recalling a good tom kha soup, only with less liquid. Sticky rice cakes again provide a nice substitute to a side plate of rice. But the best dish, in our opinion, is the duckstuffed ravioli with red curry sauce, a selection that should be ordered “extra spicy”. Chili Hip also boasts a sizeable (and, we might add, eclectic) cocktail menu, including a few concoctions that are downright novel. Tom Yum on the Rocks is less adventurous than you might assume, more like a mojito with a chilli kick. The drink is made from vodka, lemon juice, fresh galangal, kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass, and the salt- and chillirimmed glass ties it all together. Other interesting localthemed cocktails include a Tom Kha Martini and a Prik Nam Som. There is also a large standard cocktail menu, including perennial favourites like margaritas, Singapore Slings and Cosmopolitans, along with a reasonably priced, and wellrepresented, wine list. BY BILL BREDESEN
Chili Hip
[MAP 8/l12]
Centara Watergate Pavilion Hotel, 567 Ratchaprop Rd 02-625-1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com | 5pm-11pm daily
bangkok101.com
review
zipangu - Sake master class With its creative sushi rolls and traditional Japanese fare, along with more than 20 different kinds of sake, Zipangu, the stylish eatery that opened last year near Asoke, is one of the city’s best options for izakaya-style dining. Run by sommelier and sake master Koji Hara, who also owns a wine and sake distributor in Silom, Zipangu takes its drinking seriously, with many of Japan’s best sake labels on offer here. Among the highlights of the sake menu is the effervescent Mizubasho Pure (B2000, 360ml), a hybrid sake-champagne whose sales in Japan have surged since it was served at a dinner party hosted by the Japanese prime minister. Another sake, Time Machine Vintage (B2400/B300), features a lovely light amber glow and a sweet taste, while Tamagawa Gyoku-ryu Junmai-Daiginjo Yamahai (B3900/B850), fruity and full-bodied, is Zipangu’s most popular sake among Thai and Western customers. Tamagawa Junmai Yamahai nonfilter Nama-Genshu (B2000/B500), served hot, has a slightly higher alcohol content (20 percent) than the others. Zipangu’s other notable spirits include a delightful light citrus yuzu and a range of Japanese whiskeys. Food standouts – and there are many – include a fried Volcano Roll (B320) filled with salmon and cream cheese, and served with tartar sauce drizzled in soy. The Caesar salad roll (thick crispy bacon, crunchy croutons, romaine and Parmesan cheese, rolled inside soft edible rice paper, B290), bangkok101.com
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likewise, had us nodding in admiration. On the traditional side of the menu, you could hardly do better than the black cod fish marinated in miso for three days and then grilled (B490). It is, like much of Japan’s best cuisine, perfect in its simplicity. “I want to create more new sushi rolls since they’re very popular,” Hara says. “Our food is Japanese-style but with a taste that also appeals to Westerners. We’re in a good location to capture a mix of Japanese, as well as other foreign and local visitors.” Hara also plans to more than double his sake offerings this year, bringing the total to more than 50 sakes. He already distributes to leading hotels and restaurants throughout Bangkok, including hotspot Zuma at the St Regis, and he expects his sales to expand to Phuket and Samui this year as well. BY BILL BREDESEN
ZIPANGU
[MAP 3/h9]
28/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 19 | 02-651-2180 facebook.com/TheZipangu | 6am-2am
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ROCK
- On a roll in Ari Ari’s ever-growing gourmet ghetto saw the soft opening of a remarkable gastropub at the end of 2013. Occupying a converted two-storey house tucked away at the end of a quiet soi within walking distance of BTS Ari, Rock takes its name from the restaurant’s main interior motif: large, natural boulders that have been carefully sculpted and polished to support glass tabletops. Track-lit, dark-hued walls define the urban-casual cocktail lounge ambience. It almost comes as a surprise to find that this inviting lounge-like space also boasts such a talented kitchen team. Under the creative direction of female chef Nhoi Ouypornchaisakul, who has a strong interest in healthy, organic ingredients, the kitchen fashions dishes originating primarily from Thailand, Myanmar and Yunnan. Here they’ve been reformed and re-booted in a way Thai politics can only dream about. Particularly impressive are the appetisers, which come in three sizes and three prices to match appetite and pocketbook. The Crab cream cheese wafers are crispy crepelike shells of Thai khanom buang with fresh blue crab, cream cheese, green onion and a light sweet-and-sour sauce. Order the large plate, as they disappear quickly. 72 | A PR I L 2014
The crispy oysters successfully juxtapose fresh bivalves with fermented pork sausage, cilantro and toasted chilli, while the pomelo slaw, Rock’s interpretation of miang som-oh, is more traditional in the expected mash-up of pomelo, fish sauce and toasted coconut. The five-spice lamb shank, slow-roasted in aromatic Chinese herbs, features perfectly tender chunks of lamb in a flavourful jus. Our table raved about the wild somtum, which mates the usual shredded green papaya with khanom jeen, bamboo shoots and pickled cabbage – Mekong fusion at its best. For something with a Lao/Isan tilt, try the warmed olive leaves salad, where tart and savoury makok leaves (from the Asian “olive,” also known as hog plum) match perfectly grilled chicken with a paste of roast yellow chillies. Heartier appetites can bite down on Rock’s signature beef sirloin burger, enlivened by a crisp oyster pancake, tiger ear leaves and Sriracha sauce. BY JOE CUMMINGS
Rock Restaurant & Bar [MAP 8/l7] 7/1 Soi Chumnanaaksorn, Phanonyothin Soi 9 | 0826-888-200 Facebook: Rock-Restaurant-and-Bar | Mon-Sat 5.30pm-midnight
bangkok101.com
review
kaguya - Japanese with a twist After dark in Bangkok, it’s the places that combine food and drink to the best effect that are destined to inherit the Earth. Call them gastrobars or lounge bars – it doesn’t matter. The key factor is that you can start there for drinks and stick around for dinner without feeling like you’ve made a compromise on either front. It’s a delicate balancing act. Can a restaurateur do cocktails? Will a bar owner take the necesary steps to deliver proper food? Kaguya does a better job than most new arrivals in this demanding category. The glittering indoor-outdoor fit-out is a major plus, offering the perfect setting for after-work cocktails and a spot of people-watching in the middle of Thong Lor. Also, it’s ostensibly Japanese – this has the advantage of focusing the menu, although there are plenty of dishes that strain at the shackles of narrow ‘cuisine categorisation’. The drinks, first, are excellent – these guys take cocktails seriously, as they should. They’re innovative while keeping the most important principles in mind and there are some interesting results, delivering offset and balance in equal measure, served with a flair for presentation. Take, for example, The Way Of The Samurai (B280): Japanese single malt, yuzu and brown sugar served in a shaker to resemble an armoured samurai, topped with a ‘helmet’ of bitters that drips down during drinking. Full marks. The food presents a more complex equation – the best dishes are also the most conceptually coherent. The sous bangkok101.com
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vide ox tongue with yuzu (B260) is deliciously salty and the yuzu is the perfect twist, while the tuna tartare with homemade nori potato chips (B320; pictured below) comes with a selection of side seasonings and is ideal for sharing. Whereas Thai flavours are bold and brassy, Japanese flavours are more light, more delicate. It means mixing and matching can be a risky business because those Japanese notes are more easily lost than most. So while the rock lobster with smoked paprika sauce (B350; main image) works, the rack of lamb marinaded in herbal miso and rosemary foam (B950) is a step toward being over-engineered. There’s a ton of potential here: they’ve got the drinks right so if the food can likewise be pared down – both in terms of the size of the menu and the ideas in the mix – Bangkok could well have another winning one-stop shop. BY TOM STURROCK
kaguya
[MAP 3/r6]
The Third Place Building, 137 Thong Lor Soi 10 | 02-714-9974 facebook.com/kaguyagastrobar | 5.30pm-1am; Sat-Sun 11am-2pm
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s.pellegrino recommends
cicchetti - A bite-sized banquet The attractions at Groove at CentralWorld continue to expand – the latest is Cicchetti (pronounced chi-kettee), a brightly lit Italian restaurant specialising in smaller plates designed to be shared and mixed and matched. It’s a departure from the more familiar style of Italian food, which often comes out in large portions – big, bolshy, filling main courses. But, as executive chef Filippo Pagani explains, the concept has its origins in Venice, where small dishes – or cicchetti – are served as snacks on the go for hungry commuters. “People would be waiting for a boat, for a gondola, so they go into the little bars and just have a little bit of food,” Pagani says. “The concept here is that people sit down and order and because they are smaller, there are many things to try. “You order something and when it’s ready it goes out. You order four or five dishes and then you order again.” There are further echoes of Italianstyle dining in the way Cicchetti is laid out. When customers first enter from the Groove foyer, there is a deli on the lefthand side, decked out with freshly made desserts and wood-fired ovens churning out pizzas by the score. This segues into the open kitchen where a team of chefs work busily on the production line, framed by strings of produce hanging from above. “It’s like an old-fashioned kitchen, like a mamma’s kitchen, with all the chilli and the garlic,” Filippo says. The passion for quality produce is palpable – this, after all, is the hallmark of good Italian food. And there’s no doubting the authenticity of the first offering, a burrata (B340) with creamy mozzarella from Puglia, served with parma ham and black truffle. “The mozzarella, we import twice a week from Puglia, as well as the parma,” Filippo says. The slightly larger servings bring even more refinement. There’s a black truffle risotto (B590) served with black ink cuttlefish, which adds a lightness to a dish that is otherwise enriched by the kick of the truffle and the heft of the risotto. “In Venice, cuttlefish is very popular and we use that black truffle because it’s Italian and it’s in-season,” the chef explains. “It’s a good combination because it’s not too powerful.” The seafood highlights keep coming with the lobster burger (B490), served rustically on a fluffy bun – it’s a pleasing departure from lobster being habitually associated with fine dining. Here, the lobster meat spills pleasingly on to a wooden platter covered with news print, alongside chips and salad, giving it an upscale twist on traditional fish and chips. 74 | A P R I L 2 0 1 4
We’re back on dry land for the agnello al fieno (B460), a rack of New Zealand lamb marinated in hay and white wine and served with a Madera sauce. It’s a winning combination, the lighter flavours of the lamb heightened and infused with delicious oomph. “The Madera sauce is made with red wine, some seasoning and a touch of garlic,” Filippo says. “The hay comes from Thailand – we clean it and marinade it with the lamb and the white wine. It gives it all a little more power and aroma.” There are, of course, still plenty of Italian staples on offer. There’s a ravioli with spinach, ricotta and pachino tomatoes (B130). The ravioli is homemade and, although Filippo insists it is “very simple food”, it’s also damn satisfying, with a moreish sauce leavened by the mild sweetness of juicy tomatoes. There’s also a selection of pizzas, using dough made on the premises The pizza fritta (B150) is more like a calzone, packed with ham, mozzarella, oregano and basil, while the Vesuvio (B240) is more the classic pizza set-up, topped with mushroom, rocket and black truffle. Overall, Cicchetti has enough variety to justify several return visits – and to sate appetites of all different sizes. “I’ve created a lot of the dishes,” says Filippo, who has also set up several restaurants around the world, having worked with the San Carlo group in the UK. “The menu is very flavourful but not too much. I think people will come in and have two or three dishes and that will be fine.” Another attractive aspect of Cicchetti is their wine list – although the menu brims with high-quality wines, mostly Italian, the prices are as reasonable as they get in Thailand, with plenty coming in under B2000 for a bottle and very few more than B3000. According to Filippo, this generous approach is designed to keep diners suitably lubricated while not taking their mind off the food. “The policy for the wine – we put less than double the cost of the wine. It doesn’t mean it’s cheap wine, of course, but we aren’t trying to make our money from that. We want people to enjoy it and not worry about that,” he says. “Everywhere in Thailand they charge two, three, four times as much. People drink the wine, they’re happy with it, and they’re eating more.” BY TOM STURROCK
cicchetti
[MAP 4/g4]
Groove at Centralworld, 999/9 Rama 1 Rd | 02-516-5514 10am-11.30pm | centralworld.co.th/groove
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s.pellegrino recommends
FOOD & DRIN K
TO ENHANCE GREAT FOODS CHOOSE THE FINE DINING WATERS ACQUA PANNA AND S. PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS.
Sanpellegrino Asia| sanpellegrino@sanpellegrino.com.sg Distributed by Vanichwathana (Bangkok) Co Ltd. Thailand | Tel. +66 22215354
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in the kitchen
stefano merlo talks to Howard Richardson
The proliferation of Italian restaurants in Bangkok means, among other things, that we food writers get to enjoy mountains of tiramisu on a regular basis. “Tiramisu is a dish that should always be made fresh,” says Stefano Merlo, chef at Enoteca, who is making the popular Italian dessert for me. “In a restaurant, you should prepare it at 5pm, so it can set for a couple of hours before serving. The next day, it will be only so-so.” Stefano learned some of his inventive techniques at Enoteca Pinchiorri, the Tokyo branch of the Michelin-starred restaurant in Florence, and later at another Michelin-starred eatery, Le Canlandre in Padua. His first run at Enoteca in Bangkok began five years ago. He then went to Rossini’s in the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit for a brief stint before returning to Enoteca last June. “I learned a lot working with chef Alfredo Rosso, the consultant chef at Rossini’s who has worked in a number of Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy,” Stefano explains. “He influenced the style of food I cook. I try to be as simple as I can, so that everybody can understand what he or she is eating. For me, a dish shouldn’t have too many elements. I play with the ingredients, presenting them in different ways – such as foams, for instance. We explain to people the best way to eat them at the table.” Stefano says he developed the tiramisu while he was first here (“I deconstructed it”) and predicts he may change it again in the future. “We decided when I was first here that most Italian dining 76 | A PR I L 2014
in Bangkok was pretty much the same,” he says. “We wanted to do something different, to create gourmet food with more attention to detail. I think we were the first Italian restaurant to do that. But we’re developing all the time, getting new equipment, always learning.” He prepares the dessert first by coating the surface of the moulds with chocolate and then dipping them into an ice bath, where the chocolate sets instantly. He puts a scoop of mascarpone with a touch of sugar into one of the hollow chocolate hemispheres and, alongside it, a scoop of zabaglione, made with marsala wine, sugar and eggs. Stefano tops this with another chocolate dome to form a sphere, and then places it together with a blob of whipped cream between two ladies’ fingers into a serving bowl. That’s it. We’ve spent barely one minute in the kitchen and I’m already waiting for a taste in the homey restaurant amid the exposed brickwork and arty posters. When serving, the waiter pours Americano coffee over the dish, melting the chocolate and soaking the ladies’ fingers. It helps you enjoy the different flavours and textures individually but overall the flavour is still distinctly tiramisu. It’s a simple variation but one that adds a touch of uniqueness to a dish that is nearly always on everyone’s lips.
ENOTECA
[MAP 3/k8]
39 Sukhumvit Soi 27 | 02-258-4386 6pm-midnight | enotecabangkok.com
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street eats
ealtike
Nym
B
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
handmade fish ball noodles
angkok’s Chinatown reveals its magic in hidden corners, where the streets are quieter but local life somehow shines brighter. I love discovering the seemingly endless treasures of this area, especially along the labyrinthine side streets tucked between Yaowarat Road and the river. It is a maze of tightly clustered homes, shophouses, vendors, workshops and temples. For years I’d heard great things about a food stall in the area that only sets up at night and sells fish ball noodle soup. But in my dozens of walks there I never came across it. Recently, though, I was wandering south on Yaowarat, and after wending my way through the neighbourhood I caught an unusually delicious waft of roasted garlic. And there I came upon a lovely scene: a noodle cart wreathed in steam and bathed in fluorescent light, like something out of an old Chinese movie. Behind the cart, in a narrow lane, diners sat at small plastic tables, digging into bowls of food. We had accidentally – and delightfully – arrived on time for Lim Lao Sa. On so many previous nights I had been either too late or too early. Lim Lao Sa has been serving fish balls on this quiet soi at the top of a narrow lane for decades. The
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founder’s children now run the business, keeping alive the secret family recipe. “It has been about 100 years already,” the daughter told me. “I helped my father beginning when I was 12 or 13 years old, and now I am 50.” Good fish balls shouldn’t smell or have a “fishy” taste. The ones used here are 100 percent fresh sea fish. The texture, she said, should jump and dance in your mouth when you bite into them - and it did. Try it: Lim Lao Sa opens every day from 6pm-9pm and is located in a small lane off Songwad Road.
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listings
Paste
THAI PASTE [MAP 3/P6] 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 02-392-4313 pastebangkok.com | Tues-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6pm-late It’s possible for passersby to miss this new addition to Bangkok’s cosmopolitan dining scene, tucked to one side of soi 49 in the backstreets of Thong Lor. But if the entrance is easily overlooked, the modern Thai food inside is unlikely to be forgotten. For entrees, the dry-spiced chilli squid, topped with vinegar and tomato relish (B240) is a winner. Among the mains, the prime cuts of Australian red meat stand out invitingly from the local produce – the braised beef ribs with ginger rice, tamarind leaves and mushroom soy (B380) are perfect if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty. The roast duck salad with lychee and Vietnamese mint (B380) packs an immediate punch but it is the hint of banana blossom that delivers a surprising, sensational finish. And then there is the tamarind and caramel pork belly with moonflower, red okra and green chilli pickle (400). It’s an inspired combination, the pork belly coming apart effortlessly while its outer layer retains a rainbow of flavours, its richness lightened
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perfectly by the moonflower and okra. Overall, Paste is a triumph, fusing tradition and innovation with a confidence and craft that never veers into showiness. Good food is often described as “tasty” or “delicious” but these descriptions are fleeting – the best meals go a step further and stay with us long after the plates are cleared. And, on that score, Paste delivers with exceptional panache, serving food that is not just instantly gratifying but truly memorable.
sala rattanakosin bangkok [MAP 7/c12]
39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island 02-231-2588 | salarattanakosin.com 7am-10pm With vistas not only across the river to Wat Arun but also towards the spires of Wat Pho and the Grand Palace, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. Later, head down to the two-storey restaurant, and, if possible, grab a window table upstairs or beside the river on the wooden deck outside. Executive chef Tony Wrigley describes his menu as comfort food and that pretty much fits the bill. Typical Thai dishes include tempura fried soft shell crab (B290), with a good strong zip of sour and spice in green mango salad that cuts through the crispy batter, and the northern Thai favourite khao soy (B280). The latter, served as a main course, has a thicker, more curry-like consistency than usual and the complexity loses out slightly to the more dominant palm sugar in a heavily reduced sauce. The menu has fewer Euro items but there were good flavours to the twice-cooked crispy pork belly (B590). It’s roasted for
Sala Rattanakosin three hours and then finished in the oven for 20 minutes with a tamarind glaze. On the side are roast pumpkin puree, apple and young ginger marmalade, and stir-fried morning glory, which works very well cooked in typical local style, flash-fried with oyster sauce, garlic and chilli. A major plus is the list of 25 wines by the glass, starting at B190 and a very drinkable standard with the clean, acidic Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc from South Africa.
AMERICAN BOURBON STREET [MAP 8/S16] 9/39-40 Soi Tana Arcade, Sukhumvit 63, Ekamai | 02-381-6801 | bourbonstbkk.com 7am-1am New Orleans, the Big Easy, is famed for many things – its music, its nightlife and, of course, its distinctive Cajun food. There are bits and pieces borrowed from western Europe, particularly France and Spain, mixed up in a giant gumbo pot with Creole – itself a mixture of European and African-American influences - and infused with the brassy flavours of the American south. For the uninitiated, it’s a baffling cuisine, partly because it hasn’t been exported
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listings Bourbon Street
wholesale from Louisiana to the rest of the world. That said, washed down with a couple of particularly zingy margaritas at Bourbon Street in Ekkamai, it starts to make a whole lot of sense. The menu is vast, so fortunately the proprietor, Doug, who has been preaching the Cajun gospel in Bangkok for 30-odd years, is on-hand to offer his recommendations. No Cajun banquet is complete without a gumbo, which, on first appearance, looks like a simple working man’s stew – in Cajun cuisine, gumbo is a versatile dish that can contain more or less whatever the chef fancies. Here, it’s chicken and sausage (B140) in a rich broth – whatever spices or thickeners are being expertly employed at Bourbon Street, the flavour jumps off the spoon. An early highlight, undoubtedly. But they come thick and fast thereafter. The buffalo wings (B160) and the barbecue ribs (B370) are perfect for those with big appetites who aren’t afraid to get stuck in.
moulin [MAP 3/r8] No.88 Thong Lor Soi 5 | 02-712-9348 moulinsquare.com | 5.30pm-11pm, Fri-Sun also 5.30-11pm It’s hard to know quite what to expect from
this newish arrival to the backstreets of Thong Lor, with a menu that shoots off in a few different directions and a setting that has spliced together a whirlwind of cabaret trimmings. This lack of a clearly identifiable theme may throw some diners but the food – broadly defined as trendy New York fare – does not disappoint in the slightest. If you start with the crispy crab cakes with mango salad (B420) the Big Apple vibe rings clear enough but the scallop carpaccio (main image, B340), served with fresh fruit and chocolate sauce, sets the mind spinning all over. Scallops in chocolate sauce? Crazier still is that it really works. Among the mains, the pan-fried blackened seabass served with dirty rice (B480) takes diners from the east coast on a trip to the Cajun south, helped on the way by the spicy shrimp gumbo (B380). It’s at this point that you really just have to stop worrying about categorising this experience and instead sit back and enjoy, not least because the gumbo is spectacular. It’s got all those amazing elements of a big Louisiana cookup, the fire in the first mouthful all the way through to the peppery, smokey aftertaste. In a menu that’s heavy on experimentation, the gumbo is brilliantly authentic and is worth the visit on its own.
CHINESE mandopop [MAP 4/k6] Oriental Residence Bangkok, 110 Wireless Rd 02-252-8001 | mandopop-bangkok.com 5pm-midnight The steamed scallop dumplings (B160) come wrapped in the thinnest wonton, one
FOOD & DRIN K
Moulin side tinted purple with beetroot and the other green with spinach. It’s a dish with very little margin for error – eating it is also a test of one’s chopsticks skills – but the crucial scallop flavour is never overwhelmed by the seasoning. The pan-seared foie gras served with crispy duck skin (B450) is perhaps even more ambitious, served on a bed of curd and cress with a drizzle of sweet chilli and mango dressing (above right). It’s a perfect balance of flavours and textures, the velvety richness of the foie gras offset perfectly by the crunch of the duck skin, mixed in with the spice and joyous zing of the dressing. An absolute triumph. This brings us to the mains – often the stumbling block for restaurants pushing a modern concept. The tenderloin beef in black pepper sauce (B550) is wellexecuted in its own right – the meat is tender and gives off exactly the right tangy bite that customers expect from this dish. However, after the foie gras, the presentation falls short, the beef served more or less on its own, or with rice. Given the exquisite, elegant presentation of other dishes, this is surprisingly plain. There’s a spectacular return to form for the desserts, though.
49 Sukhumvit soi 49 - Terrace 49 Building 2nd floor - reservation +6622041731
LA
OTTEGA
private wine room - open lunch and dinner bangkok101.com
www.labottega.name
Photografy for La Bottega by Studio NUMA A PR I L 2014 | 79
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listings
Shang Palace
shang palace [MAP 8/f17] 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 02-236-7777 | shangri-la.com 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is flawlessly elegant and, even more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. Throughout, the food is low on oil, delivering delicate flavours while still being immensely satisfying. The dim sum is the obvious place to start – the scallop siew mai (B120, left bottom) and the deep-fried shrimp and sesame spring rolls (B90) offer both sweet and salty taste, the scallops deliciously tender while the spring rolls add some crunch. The crispy barbecue pork buns (B80) are also a winner, the pastry bursting coming apart to expose the grilled, saucy goodness. But the signature dish is undoubtedly the Beijing roast duck (B1900) that is enough to feed four people and comes in two separate dishes. First, the skin comes off and is served with thin pancakes, green onion and plum sauce. The duck meat is then taken away and minced or stir-fried before returning to the table, seasoned with pine nuts and egg yolk, to be parcelled up inside fresh lettuce leaves. The baked river prawn with butter and black pepper suace (B220, left top) is another highlight – it’s a seriously sized prawn that is a brilliant pink when you manage to crack open the shell. The seafood keeps on coming – this time with a double hit of fresh crab. First, there’s the bird’s nest soup with crab roe (B1300) before the sticky rice with crab (B1800) that comes out in a family-sized bamboo basket.
the mayflower [MAP 8/k16] Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 02-200-9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm At The Mayflower, the flagship Cantonese restaurant at the Dusit Thani Bangkok, authenticity is the name of the game and the results are delicious. You’ve probably seen the liquid-centred buns with salted egg in the centre in various places around Bangkok – even, gasp, in 7-11 and other convenience 80 | A PR I L 2014
stores. Of course, there’s none of that at The Mayflower, their gourmet version making a perfect starter (fried or steamed for B150). But the really impressive courses are to come and, although dim sum serving sizes tend to be on the smaller side, the menu at The Mayflower is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-of-war over the Lazy Susan. The minced shrimp roll comes out wrapped in nori, and topped with ikura, which is salmon roe (B180). But it’s quickly overshadowed by the one-two punch of steamed snowfish with miso sauce (B180) and the crispy scallop, shrimp and crab roll wrapped in seaweed (B150). The popularity of snowfish seems to have skyrocketed in recent years and it is a natural fit for Asian flavours – it retains its light taste and texture while also offsetting more potent seasonings. The scallop, shrimp and crab, on the other hand, is an indulgence for seafood fans, three dishes using seriously high-end produce squeezed together. If you’re still hungry after that, the abalone wonton steamed and served with traditional dipping sauces (B300) is a stunning reminder of why we often make the mistake of ‘filling up on wontons’.
FRENCH chez pape [MAP 3/f9] 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 02-255-2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed but that’s not to say Chez Pape feels routine. Rather, there are enough surprises, both in terms of the combinations and the presentation to elevate Chez Pape’s food to something more impressive. Starting with the appetisers, there is a ceviche of barracuda in chilli and citrus (B160) or the tartare of avocado, crab and green apple (above right, B200), both hitting the right notes: light, fresh, seafood flavours offset with the right amount of seasonings. But perhaps it’s in the more provincial dishes that Chez Pape declares its hand, offering a port-marinated foie gras terrine, served with toast and mango marmalade (B285). The early courses are certainly impressive enough to build expectation for the mains without being so concept-heavy that they create confusion. The pan-seared beef flank, an exquisite cut of meat, comes with
L’Appart
goat-cheese ravioli and garnished with virgin sauce (B450) – it’s a deeply satisfying combination. Twisting the formula a little further is the duck breast served with apples, spinach and Japanese citrus dressing (B510). It’s a fine example of Chez’s Pape’s commitment to doing the inimitably French things well while borrowing and augmenting with inspired touches from elsewhere. It may sound like a challenge but leave room for dessert as the poached strawberries in syrup and ice cream (B230), although they sound straightforward, are a highlight.
l’appart [MAP 3/g9] 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi | 085-924-1565 | sofitel.com 7pm-midnight L’Appart, on the top floor of the Sofitel on Sukhumvit embraces the aesthetic of a Parisian apartment with such conviction that you could ride a bicycle, balancing a baguette on the handlebars, between some tables. The result is that L’Appart has one of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. Chef Jeremy Tourret may be every inch the French master cook but that hasn’t prevented him taking some intriguing chances, adapting a traditional cuisine to create an adventurous menu. The absolute staples are still represented – frog legs with leek and truffle (B480) and a spectacular bouillabaisse (onion soup) with rock fish, puff Japanese pearl and rouille sauce (B550; right).Tourret has dialled down the salt for the Asian palate, with the added benefit of making room for the more complex flavours he has included. He takes it to the next step in the mains. His pan-fried snow fish comes with cauliflower mousseline and Madras curry (B1300) – that’s right, curry. In a French restaurant. It seems risky and may outrage traditionalists but it is testament to Tourret’s technique and imagination that it works – the cauliflower balances the curry so the delicate taste of the snow fish – among the best – is never overwhelmed. And while people might be unexcited bangkok101.com
listings Rang Mahal
FOOD & DRIN K
curry, Gaggan has that covered as well. The apparently simple Who You Calling Chicken (B390) in fact has outstandingly refined flavour and a heart-starting pepper aftertaste.
rang mahal [MAP 3/k11]
by the prospect of roast chicken, it’s a different dish when it comes stuffed with goat cheese, comfit zucchini and organic tomatoes (B900), each mouthful an opportunity to unpick and savour the winning combination. The French restaurant has a delicious difference that keeps people coming back for more.
indian gaggan [MAP 8/l14] 68/1 Soi Langsuan | 02 652 1700 eatatgaggan.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm11.30pm Indian cuisine, perhaps more than any other, has been pigeonholed, locked into a narrow idea of heavy curries and spicy tandooris. It’s an inadequate concept, of course, and Gaggan Anand, through his stunningly unique restaurant in Langsuan, makes one of the most urgent cases for these definitions to be reconsidered. It’s ‘progressive cuisine’ anchored in Indian flavours but these lines gets blurred pretty quickly once you’re through the culinary wormhole. The reality is that, at Gaggan, flavours can be drawn from anywhere – as long as they work, there’s little formal structure about what’s allowed to go together. Perhaps the most interesting way to experience Gaggan’s always delicious, often offbeat repertoire is through one of the tasting menus (B1600, B2600 or B4000). One of the more surprising combinations comes out relatively early – it’s called Viagra, freshly shucked French oysters served with kokam nectar and Indian mustard ice cream, and somehow works despite ingredients that don’t intuitively go together. The Egyptian Secret uses foie gras, red onion chutney and raspberry powder to equally stunning effect, the flavours so well-judged that your taste buds are pulled in different directions in one mouthful. There’s the truffle mousse with a pepper infusion and king prawns with fennel Kachumber and charcoal oil. For those who just want a damn fine bangkok101.com
26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 02-261-7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The name means ‘palace of colours’ and there is definitely a courtly air about it all, down to the traditional Indian band whose lilting music fills the air. Equally, while Indian cuisine routinely delivers powerful flavours, the refined, almost delicate food served at Rang Mahal is a rarity. Among the appetisers, the papri chaat (B175) and Punjabi samosa (B190) are relatively straightforward but the well-judged lightness and the fact the doughiness is not overdone mean these bite-sized dishes whet the appetite. Proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs come out. The tandoori prawn (B295 per piece, main) is smoked to perfection in Indian spices, while the murgh malai (B425) combines chicken and cream cheese for an extra kick. The house specialty, though, is the raan-e-khyber (B950 for half, B1595 for whole) – a leg of lamb marinated in rum, herbs and spices before being barbecued. It’s an impressive dish, rustic in appearance but perfectly executed, the chunks of lamb peeling effortlessly from the bone, sweet and smokey at the same time. The curries are equally successful in delivering a heightened version of familiar dishes. The Goan fish curry (B495) combines a lightly sautéed fish seasoned with a fragrant mix of onions, garlic and spices, cooked in a sauce of tomatoes and coconut gravy, the flavours deftly balanced against each other. In the kashmiri rogan josh (B525, top left), the mutton is irresistibly tender, more casserole than curry, a spectacular rendition of one of the most familiar staples – one of the finest in Bangkok without doubt.
indus [MAP 3/p12] 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | 02-258-4900 indusbangkok.com | 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-11pm Indian restaurants sometimes run the risk of being slightly same-same – from the decor to the flavours, there seems to be a formula that works and plenty of places are happy to march to the same tune. The most gratifying thing about Indus is that it makes A PR I L 2014 | 81
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listings INTERNATIONAL CREPES & Co [Map 8/L14]
Indus certain well-judged departures – there’s a decidedly modern, well-lit interior with sweeping views of their garden dining area, as well as a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect from Indian food while dialling down the stodge and oiliness that sometimes accompany it. Furthermore, most Indian restaurants hew rigidly to northern-style food and although those notes are present in most of Indus’s curries, they all riff more broadly on IndianChinese – or Himalayan – combinations. All in all, it’s quite an ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine. Still, it begins traditionally enough, with a tandoori platter, including a creamy broccoli (B190), chicken in yoghurt and Shahi Jeera (B320) and tiger prawns in Kashmiri chilli paste, garlic, ginger and coriander. It all comes out with that slightly charred goodness that is the hallmark of Tandoori, with that smokey goodness that, done well, heightens rather than overwhelms the other flavours. Among the curries, the old favourites are also the stand-outs. If there’s a signature dish, though, it’s the raan. It’s part of an inspired selection of kebabs and requires 24 hours’ advance notice. But it’s well worth the wait.
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59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also 88 Thonglor Soi 8 and CentralWorld) 02-652-0208 | crepesnco.com | 9am-11pm The business itself is a uniquely Bangkokian success story. It was founded nearly 20 years ago as a family business which quickly expanded and became more ambitious. The crepe may be French in origin, but the flavours and ingredients here take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. The menu bulges with savoury options – try the eggplant caviar – but it’s the desserts that attract a loyal after-dinner following. You can keep it simple by going for the Crepe Josephine (B170), which is a straightforward combination of sugar and lemon zest. But if you’ve got a major sweet tooth, you’ll likely move on to the serious stuff, like the Crepe Framboise (B290), served bulging with vanilla ice cream and lathered in rich, tangy raspberry sauce. These creations are big enough to share – or you can have one all to yourself if you have a real craving. Going down the list reveals some eye-popping desserts – try the Crepe Mango Coconut (B195), which somehow works despite the unusual pairing of fresh mango and coconut slices, or the Coupe de Fraises (B170), with strawberry, vanilla and chantilly. The real show-stopper, though, is the Flambe Calvados (B290), which comes out rinsed in apple liqueur and filled with sautee apple and rum raisin ice cream. And then they set that baby on fire,
Hemingway’s
HEMINGWAY’S [MAP 3/J10] Sukhumvit Soi 14 | 02-653-3900 hemingwaysbangkok.com | 11.30am-late (kitchen closes 10:45pm) Choosing Ernest Hemingway as a concept for your bar-restaurant may not be the most original idea but the archetypal He-Man is associated with so many locations – from the Spanish Civil War to hunting rhinos in the Serengeti – that he gives you plenty to play with. It’s ideal fodder to fill this sprawling 1920s-style golden teak house. Arriving from the soi, you enter the Spanish Garden with its own fountain and lanterns in the trees, and proceed through various rooms themed according to episodes from the author’s life. The Havana Bar dispenses Hemingway’s favourite spirits in generous 45ml pours; the Key West Café is a large dining area with waxed teak floors, lots of plants and period lampshades styled after oil lamps. We chose (very) dirty Tanqueray martinis from a long drink list (B195), including special cocktails (B220) and beers from their own system served at a reliable minus-two degree. There are 20 or so wines (B1000-B2400 a bottle), including eight by the glass (B150-B350). The food menu moves from bar snacks –
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listings
FOOD & DRIN K
La Bottega di Luca [MAP 3/P8]
DiVino try the tasty and tender chilli salt-fried squid with Hemingway’s own tartar sauce (B165) – through soups, entrées and New York pizzas. Among the short list of mains are sea bass with Hemingway’s oyster and absinthe broth, steamed mussels and braised lettuce (B450) and grass-fed lava coal Australia grilled sirloin with sautéed kale, hand-cut chunky fries with a choice of sauce. Finish with a very more-ish butterscotch pot au cream with hazelnut praline (B200).
ITALIAN divino [MAP 3/r6] Penny’s Balcony, Thong Lor Soi 16 02-714-8723 | divinobkk.com 5pm-midnight, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm It’s a curious little set-up, the restaurant split between three rooms that share one corner of Penny’s Corner up in Thong Lor. One section is for private dining, another is filled with stools and high tables, while the newish wine room is a sit-down affair, the walls lined with bottles of gorgeous Italian vino. To get the balling rolling, DiVino offers a selection of cheese (B790 for six different pieces) or imported cold cuts (B700 for the most generous serving). As appetisers, they do precisely what they’re meant to, getting the stomach gurgling away in anticipation for what’s to follow. So there’s enough variety there to keep customers happy if they just fancy a bottle of wine over a few shared platters but the main courses raise the stakes in a way that fancier, more concept-heavy places don’t always manage. It’s hard to recall pasta being this exciting. The linguine with Alaskan crab meat (B420) is a lighter affair – let’s not go too far and call it delicate -– while the linguine all’astice (B580) is their signature dish containing half a Boston lobster Among the prime cuts of meat, the Australian beef tenderloin with a porcini mushroom sauce (B850) is impressive enough but DiVino’s lamb (B640 for a loin, B850 for a whole rack) is the winner, due mostly to a remarkable herb crust that sets off the milder meat spectacularly. bangkok101.com
The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 02-204-1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm Nestled in a smallish mall on soi 49, La Bottega di Luca is an immediately welcoming space, effortlessly combining indoor-outdoor seating and cultivating a relaxed vibe that makes it a neighbourhood favourite with real panache. Luca, who runs the show, updates the parts of the menu regularly and orders produce in from Italy fortnightly. The antipasti start at B290 and the grilled scamorza (B390) – that’s smoked mozzarella – wrapped in speck ham with mushrooms and red wine sauce is a delight. It’s a simple idea but the evident care taken in preparation elevates this to a gorgeous starter, reminding diners just how much they’ve come to miss cheese in Bangkok. And that sauce – you’ll be tempted to lick the plate clean. There’s a sizeable menu and it can be tricky to know which direction to take. The most eye-catching salad is the seafood combination (B220) with steamed prawns, baby squid, mussels and clams seasoned with garlic. But who are we kidding? We’re here for the rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion. That means it’s hard to go past the homemade pasta that gets freshly made every day – the dishes are reasonably priced at B240-490, although you’ll be shelling out B1790 if you go for the lobster.
scalini [MAP 3/n12] Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 02-620 6666 | hilton.com/en | Noon2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Bangkok is, naturally enough, best known for its Thai food, with other Asian cuisines not far behind. But these days, European food – French or Italian – is booming, particularly when served with a twist. So it is with Scalini – it’s ostensibly a modern Italian place but it riffs on a New York connection, while borrowing bits and pieces from the international table. So, in short, it’s Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. It’s apparent from the antipastis, which include a tuna and salmon tartar, with lemon aioli, mango salad and seared ciabatta (B450) – retaining a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced combinations. Other dishes stay closer to home, such as the Wagyu beef carpaccio, with porcini salsa, rocket and parmesan, served with white truffle vinaigrette (B570). The rich, satisfying taste of Italian food has an extra layer of complexity. And it’s on show again
CHEZ PAPÉ
French Bistro
Traditional French Food Quality Wine Yummy Desserts
Food so good you’ll want to take some home Sukhumvit Soi 11 OPEN DAILY 5PM - 11PM 11:30AM - 2:30PM
WEEKEND LUNCH
RESERVATIONS: 02 255 2492 info@chezpape.com
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FOOD & DRIN K
listings
Snapper
with the Hokkaido scallops, served here with celery, red onion, tomatoes, basil and cherry vinaigrette (B480). These adventurously designed openers set the bar high so it’s perversely pleasing that the pastas tack slightly more toward the traditional, although the pumpkin and sage ravioli (B380) still has a surprisingly delicate flavour and the duck ragout with black truffle and tonino pecorino (B600) is one of the absolute stand-outs, moist without becoming soupy, retaining a kick without being overbearing. So far, this balancing act has worked a treat – the concept is clear but it’s still all about the food. It proves slightly harder to adapt this approach to the mains, though.
SEAFOOD snapper [MAP 3/f8] 1/20-22 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-1098 snapper-bangkok.com Mon-Fri 5pm midnight, Sat-Sun noon-midnight New Zealand cuisine is hard to define precisely but it emphasises quality produce, and allows it to speak for itself with uncomplicated presentation. This works particularly well when it comes to seafood.
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It pays off handsomely. The Nelson Bay scallops, sauteed in white wine, butter and chives (B790) epitomise the approach of not masking the natural goodness of the product with a stack of heavy sauces and extra ingredients. That seafood taste is there in spades, along with a perfectly firm yet tender texture that identifies top-drawer seafood. They’ve got some stiff competition from the mussels, though, served as starters (B200-B300) or in a more substantial sharing platter (B480), topped with spiced tomato that offsets the ocean-infused tang. Snapper has done its darnedest to set itself apart as serving the best fish and chips in Bangkok and it’s pretty hard to argue with the orange roughie (B480) that just comes apart effortlessly on the plate and, with a squirt of lemon, works spectacularly on the tongue. There’s a vast selection: from red gurnard to flounder to kingfish and plenty more besides. But if you think the Kiwis are keen on their seafood – they are, with good cause – they’re pretty jazzed about New Zealand lamb and beef as well. And while Snapper’s menu remains heavily seafood-focused, the addition of a small but brilliantly executed meat section is a masterstroke.
the oyster bar [MAP 2/e11] 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 | 02-2124809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know the owner of a restaurant takes his seafood seriously when there are several pages of the menu devoted entirely to oysters. With Billy Marinelli, owner of the Oyster Bar in a foodie enclave of Chong Nonsi, customers are in good hands. As a
The Oyster Bar
seafood wholesaler, Billy has a particularly keen eye for good produce and seems less concerned with turning a profit than with running a place where he likes to eat. If you’ve brought your most serious appetite, move on to the seafood platter (B2000 for two or B3500 for four or more), offering a gorgeous pile of oysters, scallop sashimi, bay shrimp, seaweed salad, Dungeness crab, mussels, clams and caviar. The presentation is impressively straightforward, emphasising the produce without the unnecessary bells and whistles. The portions here are generous but they’re unlikely to last long once they land on the table as every part of the platter positively glows with that slightly briney goodness. A string of highlights follow: the seared Alaskan scallops with mango puree and pickled shallots (B450) adds a fruity tang to the soft, subtle flesh. For some diners, that may be enough but for those prepared to carry on, the rewards are well worth it. The seafood paella (B600 for two) is as good at it gets, rustically presented, steaming with spices and sauce, a mountain of mixed seafood to be ladled out. If that style of communal, hot and hearty dish makes your mouth water, the seafood paella will have you returning several times.
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CUISINE ART
GREEN: BASIL Paying homage to the herbal medicine doctor, the original owner of the house, Ruen Urai's third Thai gourmet journey explores colourful herbs and spices and their healing properties. Considered the 'king of herbs', basil actually means 'king' in Greek. It has been associated in many beliefs, religions and rituals – such as being using the Feast of the Cross in Christianity, the holy water in Orthodox churches, and highly revered in Hinduism. Basil leaves a taste of anise and has a strong yet sweel smell. Traditionally, in Ayurveda, basil i used for treating pimples, stress, asthma and diabetes. Essential oils found in basil have potent antioxidant, antiviral and antimicrobial properties and also use in cancer treaments. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel: 66 (0) 2266-8268-72 Fax: 66 (0) 2266-8096 www.rosehotelbkk.com www.ruen-urai.com
heaven on zen at centralworld
Nightlife POUR YOUR OWN CRAFT BEER
At Thong Lor hot spot Sway (Thong Lor Soi 10, Arena 10, 02-711-6052), craft beer enthusiasts can enjoy a large selection of brews on tap courtesy of Beervana. Sway’s new Self Pour Wall works on a card-swipe system that charges per milliliter, allowing customers to sample different craft beers without committing to the full cost of a pint. Sway is also home to more than 20 different flavours of chicken wings – and everybody knows that few snacks are better paired with craft beer than wings.
MAKE a little more ROOM
The new event series Room49 focusses on the emergence of Bangkok’s modern house and techno music scene. Number 49 is the country code for Germany, one of the pioneers of the underground scene, offering a hint of what partygoers will experience on the dance floor at Wax (37 Sukhumvit Soi 11). The series kicks off April 10 with Sian (Octopus Recordings) featuring Aardy and Dan Buri. Ladies enjoy free entry while guys pay B250 (which includes one drink).
PINK SONGKRAN
The pink party scene cranks up the volume this month with the gay-friendly gCircuit Songkran, which brings a variety of events to Bangkok venues from April 11-13. The Bangkok Convention Center (CentralWorld, 991 Rama 1 Rd, 02-640-7000) will host the Opening Party (April 11), called Fairytale. The Main Party Cyberton follows at the same venue on April 12, while the Amazonia Closing Party will be held at Ku De Ta (F39-40, Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd, 02-108-2000, kudeta.com) on April 13.
CLASSIC COCKTAILS
amBar at Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok (4 Sukhumvit Soi 15, 02-309-3000, ambarbangkok.com) has launched a new cocktail special for this month, including mojitos, Bloody Marys, pina coladas, margaritas and caipirinhas on ‘buy one, get one free’ basis for B300. These classic cocktails are simple yet elegant, proving that timeless drinks are rarely complicated. Enjoy excellent city views from the eighth-floor rooftop bar, along with international tapas. Also, don’t miss the hotel’s Songkran Get Wet & Go Wild pool party on April 13 from noon till midnight.
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review
JOJO - Aperol evenings -
J
ojo at The St Regis Bangkok recently launched a new promotional event pairing the Italian aperitif Aperol and Italian tapas at the outdoor Aperol Lounge nightly from 6-8pm throughout the summer. Italian Tapas are priced at B50 per plate, while Aperol Spritz is B125 per glass. An evening package for B495 includes a free flow of Aperol Spritz, Prosecco, beer, selected cocktails and unlimited tapas. As soon as you finish one platter, the wait staff brings you another. Jojo has long been known as home to one of the best selections of Italian wine in Bangkok, along with an excellent representation of Italian cheeses. For the Aperol evenings, Jojo introduces the Aperol Spritz, a signature blend of Aperol, Prosecco, soda and an orange section, a super-refreshing beverage in the hot season. The drink provides the ideal accompaniment to Chef Carlo Valenziano’s delicious new tapas menu. One standout food item is the grilled artichoke hearts, which are brushed with olive oil and loaded with smoky flavours. The lightly battered calamari, fried and served on a bed of rocket with a tasty aioli dip, is another winner, while olive lovers will surely appreciate the big bowls full of top-quality olives. “The timing couldn’t be better as the good weather and later sunsets make for perfect outdoor lounging, especially after a busy day at work,” says Daniela Santobuono, Jojo’s restaurant manager.
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“We feel privileged that Aperol has chosen to collaborate with us in promoting their exciting brand in Bangkok. It doesn’t get more Italian than refreshing drinks, good food and great company.” The upscale lounge, located in the back verandah area of Jojo, features a stylish décor outfitted with comfortable sofas and low cocktail tables, along with a handful of standing tables, all interspersed with carefully trimmed greenery. A number of tent canopies also provide overhead cover. BY JOE CUMMINGS
jojo
[MAP 4/g7]
The St Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-207-7777 stregis.com/bangkok | noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm
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Bash
Nightclubs BASH [ma p 3/F8] 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (entrance next to the Australian Pub | bashbangkok.com Midnight-very late Open till “very late”, Bash is brash. American owner Daryl Scott, a well-known club scene figure, has spliced strands of global clubbing DNA with the usually sleazy after-hours club concept. There are burlesque dancers ranging from midgets and robots on stilts to cross-dressing whacker Pan Pan (the shows bring to mind risqué superclub Manumission at times); the fixtures and furniture are of the very glam sort (gleaming Louis IX furniture, etc); and the DJs are often big names. Head up the stairs lined with misshapen mirrors and you’ll find three floors of fun, two of them taken up by the main room and the mezzanine which overlooks it.
ku de ta [MAP 5/g6] 39-40F Sathorn Square Complex, 98 North Sathorn Rd | 02-108-2000 | kudeta.net 6pm-late Ku De Ta set out to add a new dimension to a night out in Bangkok. To some extent, it follows in the footsteps of Bed Supperclub by providing an upscale club experience for the city’s movers and shakers but it has also carved out its own unique aesthetic that is sure to make it one of Bangkok’s top nightlife destination venues. Undoubtedly, the space is the first part of Ku De Ta’s glittering fit-out that catches the eyes. The main club is a vast rectangular area with skyscraper ceilings and a long window running down an entire side, affording an exceptional view of Bangkok lit up at night.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE [MAP 4/H4] President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd mixxdiscotheque.com | 10pm-late Located in basement annex of the Intercontinental Hotel, Mixx is classier than 90 | A PR I L 2014
most of Bangkok’s after-hour clubs, but only slightly. It’s a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers and paintings and billowing sheets on the ceiling lending a desert tent feel. The main room plays commercial R&B and hip hop, the other banging techno and house. Expect a flirty, up-for-it crowd made up of colourful characters from across the late-night party spectrum. The entry price: B350 for guys, B300 for girls. That includes a drink and, as long as things go smoothly, the chance to party until nearly sunrise.
ROUTE 66 [Map 8/Q12] 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | route66club.com B200 foreigners incl. drink / free for Thais Rammed with hordes of dressed-to-kill young Thais on most nights of the week, ‘Route’, as it is affectionately known, is RCA’s longest surviving superclub. There are three zones to explore (four if you count the toilets – probably the ritziest in town), each with its own bar, unique look and music policy. ‘The Level’ is the huge, alllasers-blazing hip-hop room; ‘The Classic’ spins house and techno; and Thai bands bang out hits in ‘The Novel’. Route is not a good place to lose your friends but can be a blast if you all get crazy around a table, be it inside or out on the big outdoors area. One sore point: unlike the locals, foreigners are charged a B200 entry fee (but get a free drink).
THE CLUB [Map 7/F 5] 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 02-629-1010 theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am The walk-in crowd of young Thais and backpackers must surely be amazed to find they’ve entered a techno castle on Khao San Road. The sky-high windows and raised central DJ turret lend a fairytale vibe, while the lasers, visuals and UV lighting hark back to mid 1990s psy-trance raves. Music-wise, it’s a loud, banging house serving up the full range of 4/4 beats, usually cranium-rattling electro house and techno. The drink prices are kind to your wallet and UV glowsticks handed out for free.
Q BAR [Map 3/C4] 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of top-shelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with big name international DJs appearing regularly. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife
Q Bar twelve years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and a recent top-to-bottom renovation giving the venue a maximalist style injection. Now, there’s more room to dance and more lounge space, especially at QUP, the more downtempo upstairs area. Also, out the back of the venue, through a revolving door from the dance floor, you can find your way into Le Derriere, Q Bar’s very own Parisianstyle absinthe bar that is perfect for chilling out and chasing the green fairy.
hotel bars & clubs BARSU [map 3/F6] 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250, Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek BarSu features the tagline ‘eat, play, dance,’ and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings. To this end, there are five live bands for each night of the week. Comprised of students from Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Jazz, Tenon Round’ are a gifted young quartet who perform every Tuesday from 8.30 to 10.30pm. The other bands, JazzPlayground, P.O.8, Rhythm Nation and Hot Gossip, play from Wednesday to Saturday respectively. In between sets, tuck into their ‘Goong goong goong’ menu, combining fresh prawns with a variety of international flavours.
spasso [MAP 8/l13] Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Road | 02-254-1234 | bangkok. grand.hyatt.com 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm2.30am There’s no shortage of hotel bars in Bangkok but Spasso, on the ground floor of the Grand Hyatt Erawan has been around for 21 years and remains a favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it presents as a bangkok101.com
Heaven
sedate Italian restaurant but after hours, after it transforms into a club and cocktail bar, it really hits its stride, revelling in its energetic, uninhibited atmosphere. The layout is unconventional – an open-plan foyer and dining area narrows into a dancefloor, flanked by two horseshoe-shaped bars. It has the effect of funnelling all the action between the bars and on to the dancefloor. Spasso is not so much for Bangkok scenesters – its selling point is that it’s slightly wild and the live band does its best to whip partygoers into even higher spirits.
Bars with views heaven [MAP 8/k13] 20F Zen @ Central World, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-100-9000 | heaven-on-zen.com Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am It’s heavily dependent on the weather as the design offers precious little protection but on a warm Bangkok night, when the golden backdrop of its feature bar lights up like a metal sun, it feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital. Crucially, they’ve got the cocktails (all B280-B320) right, using a well-chosen blend of spirits without going overboard and trying to cram every drink with one too many flavours. The Surreal Seduction – slightly cheesey name but we’ll forgive it because it tastes good – combines vodka, apple liqueur, elderflower syrup and pear puree. It’s super fruity but apple liqueur is one of the more versatile, underused ingredients in cocktails and it sets off the others in a way that’s refreshing but still carries a kick.
LONG TABLE [Map 3/H8] 25F 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 02-302-2557 | longtablebangkok.com 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing that draws Bangkok’s nouveau riche to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar. There’s also the trend-setting twist: a sleek 92 | A PR I L 2014
communal dining table so long it makes the medieval banquet bench look positively petite. However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere. Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature ‘long-tail’ cocktails or new latitude wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – wide-screen city vistas.
MOON BAR [Map 5/K8] 61F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am This is one place that will get you closer to the moon. The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. With stunning 360° views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up. For voyeurs, the telescope and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too.
NEST [Map 3/C4] 9F Le Fenix, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11 02-305-4000 | lefenixsukhumvit.com 5pm-2am An all-white and urbane open-air oasis on the ninth floor of the sleek Le Fenix Hotel, Nest is a loungey and laid-back spot on weekdays and early evenings, with couples enjoying signature martinis and upmarket nibbles from the comfort of Thai-style swing beds and Nest-shaped rattan chairs. But on weekends, a more up-for-it crowd ascends, especially during special party nights. These include Mode, a shindig every second Saturday of the month that pumps hip-hop and house beats rather than the usual smooth Balearic sounds. What are the views alike? With buildings looming above you, not below you, here you feel part of the cityscape.
threeSixty [map 5/b2] Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd 02-442-2000 | hilton.com | 5pm-1am High above the glittering lights of Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River, ThreeSixty is the only Bangkok venue to enjoy unhindered views
Nest over the entire, dazzling metropolis. It also hosts live jazz musicians every day, all year round. A private glass lift takes guests all the way up to the 32nd floor which boasts panoramic vistas from its 130m tall, circular lounge. Guests can feast on a range of miniature culinary experiences, from foie gras to caviar or risotto, or sip on fine wines and cocktails as the sun sets in a blaze of colour behind Wat Arun. Just as gently, the soft lounge lights come on to create an atmosphere of casual intimacy. As the first stars appear, the city’s coolest jazz sounds will set the mood which true aficionados will not be able to resist.
woo bar [map 5/g7] W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 02-344-4131 | whotels.com/Bangkok Sun-Wed 9am-1am, Thurs-Sat 9am-2am Located on the ground floor of the W Hotel, Woo Bar has all of the flair and emphasis on design that has come to characterise the hotel franchise. It’s chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, spacious enough to find a seat without being echoey and without atmosphere. And, most importantly, the cocktails pass with flying colours, some inventive signature drinks rubbing shoulders with well-executed standard tipples. The Bliss (B325), which comes from the bartenders at W Hotel in New York, combines Ciroc vodka, elderflower liqueur, lime, mint and fresh ginger. You might struggle to stop at just one.
BARS Apoteka [map 3/e8] 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 090-626-7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight As you may have guessed, the name is based on an outdated word for pharmacist and the place is meant to emulate a 19th century apothecary. Unsurprisingly, it has bangkok101.com
Cheap Charlie’s
bar is helmed by the boys behind Flow, the cocktail consultancy that inspires much drunken fun around the region. The sleek, Georgian-influenced décor has paneled walls, clubby chairs and a large central bar, where snacks like beer battered popcorn shrimps and baby back ribs glazed with chocolate and chilli go well with fancy, custom-made cocktails or Belgian ales. Outside, there’s a spacious terrace with swing seats and a mini-maze of tea plants.
Maggie Choo’s
maggie choo’s [MAP 5/c5] an old-school feel. There are high ceilings, red brick walls and Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde being projected onto the wall. Indoor seating is a mix of tall tables with studded chairs, and long tables for larger groups along the main wall. Large cases filled with vintage-coloured bottles of medicine flank the bar. The outdoor seating is mellow – a wooden patio with some cozy furniture that could be a nice place to curl up on a date or meet some friends for a smoke and a beer. Drink selection includes a nice selection of beer (the Framboise Ale at B250 is delightful), Heineken for just B135, and custom cocktails cost you B230. Keep your eyes peeled for the whisky and cigar lounge: a room hidden off to the side of the staircase.
CHEAP CHARLIE’S [map 3/D6] Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight This joint is a Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety hole-in-the-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest Sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists in-the-know to fill up on B 70 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little sub-soi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed nightspots Q Bar and the other newer spots that have cropped up recently.
HYDE & SEEK [Map 4/L5] 65/1 Athenée Residence, Soi Ruamrudee 02-168-5152 | 11am-1am | hydeandseek.com This stylish downtown gastro bar is a deadringer for those chic London haunts that draw the after-work crowd for pickmeup cocktails and good food that doesn’t break the bank. Heading the kitchen is Ian Kittichai, the brains behind the successful Kittichai restaurant in New York, while the 94 | A PR I L 2014
Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd 02-635-6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos Tues-Sun 6pm-2am From the Victorian steam-punk of Iron Fairies to the eco-futurism of Clouds, Aussie entrepreneur Ashley Sutton has already proved himself as the Terry Gilliam of Bangkok’s bar world, conjuring up drinking hole after drinking hole shot through with a magical realist quality. Maggie Choo’s, with its decadent atmosphere redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens, is no different. Clomp down the staircase and you find yourself in a noodle bar. One that could pass for an old Shaw Brothers movie set. The main decoration – and they are just decoration – are the leggy cabaret girls. Every evening at about 9pm about half a dozen walk out from behind a velvet curtain and proceed to fan themselves while rocking back and forth on swings, or sprawled atop the bar.
OSKAR BISTRO [map 3/D5] 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-255 3377 4pm-2am; kitchen open until 11:30pm Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby; and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. The food choice includes sandwiches, the Oskar burger (wagyu beef – what else?), pizzas and a section of cocottes. Almost all are under B300, which for food of this surprising quality is a steal. Most people come here though not for the food but for a pre-club libation: be it glass of wine (from B145 a glass), imported beer, or reasonably priced cocktail.
VIVA AVIV [map 5/C2] River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 02-639-6305 vivaaviv.com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Viva Aviv reminds us of one of the hipper bars along Singapore’s Clarke Quay. Not only does it have the bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade,
inside there’s also a hip designer interior in full effect. Think tropical maritime chic meets dashes of outright whimsy. While the owner, Khun Ae, is responsible for this rustic look, the bar was initially looked after by the cocktail designers behind popular gastrobar Hyde and Seek. Their ‘Rough Cut’ Signatures, many of them underpinned with rum come in slightly cheaper than over at Hyde & Seek, B250.
Water Library @ Grass Grass Thong Lor, 264/1 Thong Lor Soi 12 02-714-9292 | Mon-Sat 6.30pm-1am Aside from its upmarket, inventive set menu dining on the first floor restaurant, The Water Library also has three lounge and wine bar areas downstairs with funky food, cocktails and live music at not audacious prices. A set menu of three cocktails paired with tapas bites at B790 is a pleasant surprise to many, and their wine list starts at a mere B900 a bottle. Water Library is one-to-watch on the regional drinking and dining scene. The very talented mixologist Mirko Gardelliano was Germany’s Cocktail Champion in 2003, while the wine bar chef Urs Lustenberger worked with Michelin three star chef Juan Amador.
WTF [Map 3/Q6] 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 02- 626-6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am This tiny shophouse – signposted by graffiti on a corrugated tin wall in the street opposite – has a bar on the ground floor, decked out with mirrors along one wall, old Thai movie posters on the other, and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. It works. The Thai-farang owners (an art manager, hotelier and photographer by trade) have made a good fist of cocktails (from B130) with rye whiskies and unusual bitters in the mix, while plates of tapas consist of Thai and Euro choices such as Portuguese chorizo and feta salad. Expect live gigs, art exhibitions upstairs and a mix of hipsters, journos and scenesters. bangkok101.com
greyhound original By Gaby Doman
F
ans of Greyhound might be surprised to find out the Spring-Summer collection is a nod to the rave-inspired hippy look of the early Nineties. You might wonder how the brash acid colours, the slogans, the smiley faces and the slouchy hooded tops could fit in with a brand such as Greyhound, better known for its muted colour palette and quirks in the cuts more than the colours. But fear not, Greyhound Original can always be relied on to add a dash of humour to its designs while maintaining its integrity. The grunge and rave resurgence has been brewing for a while, and ‘21st Century Hippy’ is Greyhound’s interpretation of the early Nineties revival. Over the past year or so, most of the major international brands have merely nodded towards the trend, such as Desigual’s (frankly boring) adoption of the look for its first New York Fashion Week show. Only House of Holland, with its AW13 collection, dared to go the whole hog, with clashing tie-dyes in zesty colours. But while HOH is courageous in its designs, it is geared toward the fickle throwaway fashion crowd, while Greyhound has served up a collection that’s both trendy and with potential for longevity. There are “peace” and “love not war” slogans and yes there are oversized smiley-face prints but, with Greyhound’s inimitable style it has created a collection that’s classy and, yes, elegant. It borrows the fun aspects of the 20th century’s rave culture and updates them with the type of oversized cuts and subtly masculine finishes that are reminiscent of Jill Sander. Thanks to Greyhound’s skills, a yellow dress with an upsidedown smiley face on it is more than the novelty piece it sounds like; rather, it’s a slinky, figure-flattering number we could imagine wearing at one of Bangkok’s most exclusive events. Similarly, the collection includes brave head-to-toe green and blue tie-dyed pieces that, far from being either dated or ironic, are perfect garden or wedding party looks, classic enough to be worn year-in, year-out. Whoever thought a rave-inspired collection could achieve that? Check out greyhound.co.th
bangkok101.com
APRIL 2013 | 97
SHOPPING
jj gem
KEAW KHAM If you’re looking for authentic hill tribe attire or ethnicstyle decorations, then head to Keaw Kham at the JJ Weekend Market. The owner of this small shop is textile expert Sasivimol Jaisert, who devotes much of her spare time to hunting down quality made weaved products all the way from the north of Thailand up to China’s Guizhou province. As a result of Jaisert’s dedication, Keaw Kham is full from the floor to the ceiling with hanging and dangling accessories, apparel and decorations, including many non-traditional items you wouldn’t normally expect to find, such as pillow cases, gloves and even welcome mats.
keaw kham Section 26 Soi 1 | 02-272-5879
Jatujak Market
Forget designer malls. Jatujak weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere. The rest can go and get lost – literally aking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which thousands descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Jatujak (also spelled as Chatuchak) quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section particularly supports the theory that Jatujak has evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for obviously illegal activites). All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order should begin to crystallise from the chaos. Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or come for a leisurely browse on Friday before the real deluge hits; although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully blown, unadulterated Jatujak fix. 98 | A PR I L 2014
> The Jatujak market of Bangkok Amber House Books | hardcover | B1,950
The Jatujak Market of Bangkok presents photographer Simon Bonython’s visual inter pretation of Bangkok’s world-famous weekend market, giving particular emphasis on candid snaps of the general public and the characters who work there. In spite of the dark alleys and typically poorly lit stalls, Simon avoided using a tripod or flash, making for spontaneous, natural shots that capture the heat, buzz and colour of this labyrinthine treasure trove. bangkok101.com
unique boutique
SHOPPING
Code 10
W
hen you step foot into this 200sqm store located on Siam Paragon’s glittering first floor, the words that spring to mind are glamour, luxury, and decadence. Code 10 is a labyrinth of dresses for the rich and famous looking for evening and party wear that’s full of drama – in a good way. Not only will you find a show stopping dress at this fancy boutique, you can also get your hands on some matching jewelry by labels such as Aztique, or even a stylish headdress to complete your look for the night. Since its opening in 2008, Code 10 has become the go-to store for fashion-forward members of high society and Thailand’s hottest celebs, such as drag queen extraordinaire Gene Kasidit who is a famous patron of Chai Gold Label. With all the glam parties going on in this city, Code 10 is definitely filling a niche, serving socialites who want to dress to impress. The entire store features evening wear from soughtafter local designers including Pichita, Sanshai, T-RA and Nagara, a label known to offer some of the most exhilarating dresses known to women. It’s the first store of its kind to feature a handful of top local designers within the same walls, the end result being that customers can pick from a wide range of dresses and accessories, all with one common thread running through them – the Code 10 style factor. Although the dresses are created by different labels and designers, one thing is certain – when you’re wearing one of these numbers, heads will turn.
bangkok101.com
code 10
[MAP 4/d4]
1F Siam Paragon, Rama I Rd | 02-610 8312 siamparagon.co.th | 10am-10pm
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WELLN ESS
treatment
Your own private
paradise
T
he Grand Hyatt Erawan stands out for combining an understated class with serious luxury and that flows through to its in-house spa facility, where some serious design ambition is matched by an irresistibly relaxed atmosphere. It’s the creation of renowned American interior designer Tony Chi and occupies an area of more than 7000 square metres on the hotels fifth floor. Many of the decorative trimmings have plenty in common with other Thai spas but the space rises above the rest when it fans out into an expansive pool setting rings by private spa villas – or ‘cottages’, as they’re called here. There’s real natural charm – an outdoor path lined with greenery is somehow more appealing than yet another plush hotel corridor. Inside, the spa cottages are as spacious and comfortable as you’d expect and the treatment hit all the right marks, while all boating custom-designed attention to detail. The signature Deluxe Body Treatment by June Jacobs (B4500 for 90 minutes) combines double-exfoliation with a papaya enzyme and lemon sugar body polish. The massage itself emphasises long kneading strokes across the back, shoulders and legs, before finishing off with a scalp massage that is both energising and deeply soothly.
i.sawan spa and club
[MAP 4/g5]
Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | 02-254-1234 isawan.hyatt.com | 9am-11pm
100 | A PR I L 2014
bangkok101.com
treatment
WELLN ESS
All the right
I
notes
t’s one thing for a place to set up shop offering a range of massage treatments and facials but offering more exotic therapies means going out on a limb – there’s extra investment required, as well as the confidence that customers will be willing to try something new. With this in mind, the RarinJinda Wellness Spa Resort makes an impressive fist of presenting itself as an allround relaxtion hub for those ready to broaden their horizons. There are still plenty of familiar touches, of course: the teak furnishings, the waft of jasmine and the ubiquitous pan flute soundtrack. The rooms, however, are a cut above, appointed with spacious double bathtubs, flashy water features and expansive walk-in showers. It’s in the treatments, though, that RarinJinda sets itself apart. The Elements of Life package (B2500 for 90 minutes) starts with a foot massage, employing guava extract to work out any tightness. But then it’s on to a specially designed massage table, where a layer of black sand gets heated from below, ingeniously recreating the sensation of lying on a beach. It’s a perfect complement to the exquisite massage – the technique relying more heavily on forearms that fingers and thumbs. Then, midway through, comes the Tibetan sound therapy, which involves small pots being banged with a mallet, sending vibrations through the customer’s body. It’s baffling, but very effective.
RarinJinda Wellness Spa Resort
[MAP 4/h6]
8F Grand Centre Point Hotel, 53/2 Soi Mahatlek Luang 1, Ratchadamri Rd 02-670-5599 | rarinjinda.com | 9am-9pm
bangkok101.com
A PR I L 2014 | 101
getting there
RATCHADA NIGHT MARKET
RAIL
Chatuchak Park / BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from about B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro.co.th
SKYTRAIN (BTS)
Airport Rail Link
The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas. Trains run every few minutes from 6 am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams. Fares range from B15 to B55; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B130) are available. BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts.co.th
SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20 kms from Hualamphong (near the central
railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6 am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5 – 7 minutes. The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom / BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit / BTS Asok and MRT
RIVER
EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance, while tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30 am and 6 pm. Crossriver services operate throughout the day from each pier for just B3.
CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B 10 to B20. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.
ROAD BUS
Fares should always be negotiated beforehand.
TAXI
Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive Bangkok has thousands of metered, public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, with fares ranging from B7.50 – B23. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).
MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups. bangkok101.com
A 28km long monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with three stops in downtown Bangktok and four stops in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow two lines along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line stops at downtown stations Makkasan (journey time: 13-14 minutes, trains leave every 40 minutes) or Phayathai (journey time: 17 minutes, trains leave every 30 minutes), the only one that intersects with the Skytrain. One-way Express Line tickets cost B90 while roundtrip tickets are available at the promotional fare of B150.
air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2 kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added.
TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40. A PR I L 2014 | 103
Map 1 Greater Bangkok A
B
Greater Bangkok & the Chao Phraya Map 2 >
C
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M YA N M A R
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N
20 km 20 miles Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border
104 | A PR I L 2014
Sightseeing a
Bang Krachao b Rose Garden Riverside c Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo d Ancient Siam (Muang Boran) e Safari World f Rama IX Royal Park
floating Markets Damnoen Saduak 2 Amphawa 1
Museums 1
Erawan Museum 2 House of Museum 3 Thai Film Museum 4 Museum of Counterfeit Goods
night bazaar 1
Asiatique The Riverfront [free shuttle boat from Sathorn pier everyday 4pm-11.30pm]
Nightlife 1 2
Parking Toys Tawandang German
Hotels 1 Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort and Spa
bangkok101.com
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F
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A PR I L 2014 | 105
Map 3 Sukhumvit Road A
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106 | A PR I L 2014
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Conrad Bangkok Sheraton Grande 3 Seven 4 JW Marriott 5 Rembrandt 6 Four Points 7 Aloft Sukhumvit 11 8 Ramada Encore 9 Imperial Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit 2
11
Marriott Executive 3 Attic Studios 4 La Lanta Sukhumvit Park 12 Grande Centre Point 5 TCDC (Thailand Terminal 21 Creative & Design 13 Sofitel Bangkok Centre 6 Nang Kwak Sukhumvit 14 Le Fenix 7 WTF 15 Radisson Sukhumvit 8 The Pikture Gallery 15 Marriott Bangkok 9 We*Do Gallery 10 RMA Sukhumvit
Arts & Culture 1
Japan Foundation 2 Koi Art Gallery
3
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Robinsons Terminal 21 bangkok101.com
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Above Eleven
Embassies IN
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A PR I L 2014 | 107
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108 | A PR I L 2014
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A PR I L 2014 | 109
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110 | A PR I L 2014
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M Y B A N G KO K
Tom Bishop Tom Bishop is managing director of DTC Travel, one of Bangkok's oldest foreign-owned full-service travel agencies specialising in the expat market. Originally from Birmingham, England, Tom has lived in Bangkok for 23 years. In his spare time, he offers live travelogues and travel podcasts on 24hour webcaster, Radio Bangkok.
Tell us about DTC Travel. Back in 1988 while I was working in Toronto, I came over to Bangkok for a travel industry conference. There I met someone from Design To Construct, an Australian company supervising the building of World Trade Center (today CentralWorld) and other large-scale projects here. They invited me to help out with their internal travel operations. When the 1997-98 financial crises in Southeast Asia drove them away, I bought out the travel business to run it myself, which I have ever since. We kept the initials DTC for the name, although we have had nothing to do with construction since then. What are some of the challenges of running a travel and tour company in Thailand? In addition to dealing with the Thai political upheavals of the last six years, we’ve had to keep an eye on the ever-changing global travel market. In addition to our main outbound/inbound travel business, DTC Travel has developed smaller departments dedicated to niche markets such as golf and holidays and medical tourism. We also recently started Asia War Tours for clients seeking historical war sites in Asia. In addition to welcoming war veterans and their families, 112 | A PR I L 2014
we are also trying to educate the younger set on regional war history. Few people know, for example, that in Thailand there was a second death railway extending from Chumphon to Ranong, resulting in just as many deaths as the more famous River Kwai railway. Anyone that died building the latter railway along the last 25 percent of the track in Thailand is likely buried in Thanbyuzat, Myanmar. Now that the border at Kanchanaburi is open for travel into Myanmar, we organise itineraries to Thanbyuzat with a stopover in Mawlamyine. You were the exclusive sales point in Thailand for travel packages to the Rolling Stones concert in Macau last month. How did that come about? I had travel industry contacts in Macau who were looking for ways to boost tourism from Thailand. I knew the Stones were coming to Macau for the first time – quite a coup considering their rivalry with Hong Kong – and I suggested they allow me to sell concert/hotel packages here. Even though they knew the Stones concert would sell out in Macau, they arranged for an allotment of tickets just for a chance to connect with the Thailand market. Expats purchased most of the packages sold here.
How has Bangkok changed since you arrived 23 years ago? When I first arrived, they were just finishing Robinson Department Store and Times Square on Sukhumvit, both considered pretty large at the time. Now they’re dwarfed by all the super malls, with more on the way. Nightlife didn’t have much variety, so you tended not to go out as much because traffic was so bad. Now with BTS and MRT and more elevated freeways, you can move around much better than in the old days. What are some of your favourite places to eat in the capital? I’ve been a ovo-lacto vegetarian for 29 years, so I tend to favour places with a good selection of non-meat dishes. I like the original Himali Cha-Cha Indian restaurant on Charoen Krung Rd. Where do you go when you want to escape from the city for the day or weekend? Just a 45-minute drive away in Bang Pa-In, there are some nice boutique hotels by the side of the river. I like Ayutthaya Garden River Home, which offers Thai-style stilted houses on the river. Just beyond Chanthaburi, about two-and-a-half hours from Bangkok by car, the beaches at Laem Sing and Laem Sadet are under-visited. bangkok101.com