Bangkok101 Magazine April 2018 by Talisman Media

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Pattaya seen through the eyes of a local

Culinary Connections

Gastronauts is an international community for lovers of good food and fun that stages dynamic gastronomic events and culinary happenings across Asia and beyond.

Publisher’s Letter

he month of April is the perfect time to reflect on the cultural heritage of Thailand, since it is also the month of Songkran—the lunar New Year, which is celebrated across Southeast Asia (see pg. 32). It’s arguably the most important month of the year across the nation, so whether you’re here in Bangkok partaking in one of the city’s mega water pistol battles, or spending some quiet(er) time up country, it’s a great time to be in Thailand. Accordingly, our April issue cover feature (starting on pg. 14) delves into some of the local heritage and culture that one can soak up in a host of different ways. So, whether you make the pilgrimage to some of Bangkok’s most revered iconic landmarks, take in some of the art and music being created by local talents, or just fill your belly on a tasting tour of one of the city’s many fascinating historic neighbourhoods, the opportunities are endless for discovering the captivatingly complex identity of this manic metropolis. To balance our history and heritage coverage we also have a special travel feature focusing on Pattaya, Bangkok’s naughty neighbour to the East (starting on pg. 44). And while this sun-soaked sin city remains one of Thailand’s prime tourist destinations, it’s also becoming something of a refuge for expat residents tired of the rat race—with real rats—one endures living day-to-day in Bangkok. Guest contributor Harlan Wolff relates his first-hand insights into how Pattaya has changed over the last few decades, and what’s it’s like to live there (see pg. 50). Finally, it’s worth noting that Bangkok 101 magazine has a new dedicated food writer—David J. Constable, from the UK—and that Dr. Tom Vitayakul’s revamped monthly column ‘Now New Next’ will be profiling creative souls and artistic minds from Thailand and overseas. All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101. Enjoy. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence info@talisman.asia. Publisher

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

APRIL 2018 | 5

CONTENTS 14

CITY PULSE 10

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

My Bangkok Norbert Kostner, the city’s longest serving Executive Chef

Best of BKK From must-see monuments to culturally rich neighbourhoods and lovingly restored architecture, Bangkok overflows with history and heritage, while artists and artisans keep age-old traditions alive

On The Block A walking tour through the historic Portuguese community of Kudichin

Made in Thailand The multi-faceted SiamGems Heritage Museum

Out & About Discovering the artists and artisans of Koh Kret island

Making Merit Songkran water pistol wars may be fun, but remember there’s a spiritual side to this holiday too

TRAVEL

SNAPSHOTS 34

Now New Next Surat Jongda: costume designer, puppet master, and so much more

Bizarre Thailand Sumet Jumsai na Ayudhya, the bard of bizarre architecture

Joe’s Bangkok The Buddhasa Indapanno Archives

Very Thai Shopping for sacred offerings in the supermarket

42 Heritage Historic stroll in and around Asiatique mall

On the cover One of twelve giant demonic statues— characters from the Thai Ramakien epic—that stand at eternal guard at Wat Phra Kaew (the Temple of the Emerald Buddha), located within the Grand Palace. It’s just one of many must-see monuments located in Bangkok’s Old City (see pg. 16). Photo by Bruce Scott

Pattaya 101 In this special 24-page travel destination feature we look at Pattaya—through the eyes of a local and through the lens of a camera

See & Do Attractions, activities, and dramatic diversions

Focus on Pattaya Author Harlan Wolff takes a trip down memory lane, reminiscing about the allure of Pattaya in the mid-70s, and what made him eventually return there as a full time resident

Where to Stay Pullman Pattaya Hotel G ; Renaissance Pattaya; White Sand Beach Residence

Photo Feature The still unfinished Sanctuary of Truth remains one of Pattaya’s most eye-popping tourist attractions

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | APRIL 2018

bangkok101.com

CONTENTS 74

ART & CULTURE 70

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

Museum Spotlight Bangkok Sculpture Museum proves to be worth the trip

Music Makers The Isan Soul sounds of singer songwriter Rasmee Wayrana

Cinema Scope This month’s film news and screenings

Special Report Thai filmmaker Apichatpong Weerasethakul’s SleepCinemaHotel at the Rotterdam Film Festival

FOOD & DRINK 80

Food & Drink Updates

Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners

Hot Plates The Local by Oamthong Thai Cuisine

Restaurant Reviews Blue Elephant; Patara; Jim Thompson Restaurant & Wine Bar; Salathip; Osha

Special Report Recap of WIG, Octopi Esenzi, and BITE, three of Bangkok’s biggest chef events in March

Breaking Bread with Chef Bharath Shridhar Bhat from Punjab Grill

106

Eat Like Nym Beef Noodle Soup

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE 98

Nightlife Updates

100

Bar Reviews Beer Republic; The 2018 Bangkok Bar Awards

102

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

SIGNING OFF 106

Did You Know?... Muang Boran brings all of Thailand’s most historic landmarks together in one well-manicured theme park

ART DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTING

Narong Srisaiya

PUBLISHED BY

PHOTOGRAPHERS

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Thanakrit Skulchartchai

Mark Blackard, Jan de Groe, Lekha Shankar

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120

PUBLISHER

STRATEGISTS

GENERAL MANAGER

Mason Florence

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

SALES MANAGER

Parinya Krit-Hat

Jim Algie, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwell-Smith, Kelly Harvey, Robin Westley Martin, Chris Michael, Paige Lim, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Gary Anthony Rutland, Craig Sauers, Lekha Shankar, Allison Nicole Smith, Tom Vitayakul, Harlan Wolff

Ornuma Promsrikaew

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond

MANAGING EDITOR

Bruce Scott EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings FOOD EDITOR

David J. Constable EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Falida Angkhuro Anansit Sangsawang

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Roj Ruangkereunya

SALES EXECUTIVE

Songkwan Udomdech DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Chakkrit Rattanapan EVENT & SPECIAL PROJECTS

Wasin Banjerdtanakul

Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CUISINE ART

Discover the Secret Oasis that is Ruen Urai Experience fine Thai culinary art in the elegant surroundings of a historic century-old golden teakwood mansion. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

CITY PULSE | metro beat

APRIL’S HOTTEST TICKETS April 2

THAI HOLIDAYS

The LA-based trio Lany first came together in 2014 and after a string of online hits they were named as one of Spotify’s most streamed artists of all time. This will be their second Bangkok appearance—they did a small club gig in August of 2017—and it’s happening at Moonstar Studio 8 (Ladprao Soi 80). Tickets are B2,500 and showtime is 9pm. www.ticketmelon.com

April 10

April 6, 13-15

There are two significant Thai holidays this month, starting with Chakri Day, which falls on April 6th each year. This holiday celebrates Thailand’s Chakri dynasty, founded in 1782, from which the current monarch—King Rama X—hails. On this day the Thai royal family presides over a ceremony that honours the country’s previous monarchs, from Rama I to the recently deceased Rama IX. The second major holiday this month is Songkran, the Thai New Year, which in most areas of the Kingdom runs from April 13th to the 15th. For more on Songkran see our special feature story on page 32.

EARTH DAY April 22

First celebrated in 1970, Earth Day is now an internationally recognized annual event, with almost 200 countries actively participating via the globally coordinated Earth Day Network. The wide range of activities that take place each year on April 22nd all share the common goal of demonstrating support for environmental protection. Many countries organize festivals, rallies, and various outdoor events, but individuals can also contribute on a personal level by taking the time to conserve just a little bit more, and use just a little bit less. www.earthday.org 10 | A PRIL 2018

Global pop icon Katy Perry returns to Bangkok, bringing her 2018 Witness Tour to Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani). And while this American-born superstar is one of the best-selling musical artists of all time, she is also wildly inventive visually so fans are in for both a toe-tapping and eye-popping spectacle. Ticket prices range from B3,500 to B7,500, with VIP B10,000 packages also available. Showtime is 8:30pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com

April 19

Fans of The Wedding Present, a popular UK indie band from the late 80s, will want to make their way to the Public Restaurant & Bar (491/1 Prasert-Manukitch Rd) for this, the band’s first ever gig in Thailand. Tickets are just B950 and doors open at 7pm. www.ticketmelon.com

April 28

Touring to support their latest charttopping album, Freedom Child, Irish three-piece rockers The Script will be performing this month at Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani). Fans who caught the band’s first Bangkok show back in 2015 are eagerly anticipating their return. Tickets are priced between B2,000 and B4,000. www.thaiticketmajor.com

April 30-May 1

Grammy winning, multi-platinum selling singer/songwriter Bruno Mars is making a two night stop at Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani), as part of his 24K Magic World Tour. His first Bangkok appearance back in 2014 was completely sold-out, and no doubt these back-to-back gigs will be the same. Tickets range in price from B3,500 to B8,500, and both concerts begin at 8:30pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

MAGNERS INTERNATIONAL COMEDY FESTIVAL April 5

Hilarious British comedian Bill Bailey is coming to the Westin Grande Sukhumvit (259 Sukhumvit Rd), as part of the Magners International Comedy Festival. Expect brand new material, tackling politics, philosophy, and the pursuit of happiness, interlaced with Bailey’s signature musical virtuosity and surreal tangents. Tickets start at B1,000 and showtime is 8pm. www.ticketflap.com

ITALIAN FESTIVAL IN THAILAND April 3-4

Daniele

It’s not easy to define the music of the Daniele Sepe Sepe Quartet, as they balance reggae, folk, world music, jazz, rock, fusion, blues, and even classical music in their diverse setlist. But often the vivacity and the strength of the sounds are accompanied by a heartfelt social criticism. This month, Bangkok audiences have two opportunities to see this unique ensemble—first on Tuesday April 3rd at 7pm at the Music Hall of Chulalongkorn University (254 Phayathai Rd), and then on the following evening at The Living Room Jazz Bar at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (250 Sukhumvit Rd) at 8:30pm

April 18

Clarinet player extraordinaire Raffaele Bertolini will enchant audiences with an extremely original and variegated performance, combining everything from classic hits, modern and contemporary music, movie soundtracks, and even jazz and electronic music. It’s a free and fascinating musical journey, taking place at Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (939, Rama 1 Rd) at 7pm.

April 20-22

As part of the Italian Grand Weekend taking place at Siam Paragon (991, Rama 1 Rd) the energetic Slivovitz Septet will be performing a series of free mini-concerts in the Fashion Hall on the 1st floor. Enjoy a wonderful weekend learning how to live the “Italian way”, with a great combination of music, food, wine, and drinks… and shopping. For more information about the ongoing Italian Festival in Thailand 2018, visit the website at: www.ambbangkok.esteri.it

ELECTRONIC DANCE MUSIC Anna Lunoe

bangkok101.com

April 13-15

Looking for a hi-NRG EDM dance party during the Songkran holiday weekend? If so, check out the S2O Festival, presented by Pepsi, taking place at Live Park (Rama 9 Rd). Over the course of three days a DJ line-up consisting of heavyweights such as Anna Lunoe, Mashd n’ Kutcher, Oliver Heldens, Tujamo, and DJ Snake will be thrilling the water soaked crowd of EDM maniacs. Single day tickets are B2,000, threeday passes are B4,400, and a one-day VIP package, including champagne bar, is a mere B4,900. www.s2ofestival.com

Adi & Sonali

LATIN LOVERS April 20-23

Get ready to rhumba, as the 2nd annual Thailand International Latin Festival gets underway at the Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok (19, Sukhumvit Soi 18). Join MC Luis Vasquez (Mexico) as he welcomes such dance sensations as: Simone & Serena (Italy); Jojo & Mickaela (France/Sweden); Adi & Sonali (India); Ruben Lee (Mexico/China); Gary Foo (Singapore); and the all-girl group Wabisabi (Japan). Get set for shows, workshops, night parties, pool parties, amazing DJ sets and more. Ticket info, including 3-day pass and room rental packages, is available online. www.eventbrite.com

April 26-29

A series of sizzling dance events and celebrations take over the Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok (19, Sukhumvit Soi 18) at the end of this month as the 2nd annual Thailand Tango Festival arrives in Bangkok. On Thursday the 26th things kick off with Milonga de Ablande featuring DJ Pablo Martinez from Argentina. Other highlights include: the La Tanturi Orchestra from Buenos Aires; the Fiiesta Tanguera maestro show; and one of the most popular orchestras from Buenos Aires for the closing night Romantica Milonguera. Most events are ticketed, however there will be several free events, including a wine tasting, an evening cinema, and a wet and wild pool party. www.thailandtangofestival.com APRIL 2018 | 11

CITY PULSE | metro beat

APRIL 25-27: CHEF BOBBY CHINN AT BANYAN TREE BANGKOK

Bobby Chinn at Vertigo Chef Bobby Chinn is set to dazzle local diners with a trio of unique dinners at Banyan Tree Bangkok’s Vertigo restaurant

elebrity Chef Bobby Chinn arrives in town later this month for a threeday pop-up series of dinners at Banyan Tree Bangkok’s rooftop restaurant Vertigo. The event, powered by Gastronauts Asia, is part of the ‘Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef Series’, initiated by Sanpellegrino and designed to demonstrate how the finest natural mineral water can be used to enhance the greatest of dining experiences. The series brings renowned chefs to Thailand from top dining destinations around the world and also showcases top chefs from Thailand’s creative restaurant scene. Kiwi-born, with both Chinese and Egyptian heritage, Bobby Chinn was educated in England and worked on both coasts of the United States before travelling the world and eventually finding a base in Vietnam. There he opened the award-winning Restaurant Bobby Chinn and followed with the celebrated Bobby Chinn Saigon ten years later. He took the concept of modern Vietnamese cuisine to London in 2014, opening The House of Ho on Wardour Street to great acclaim. He now spends much of his time travelling the world as the host of Discovery TV shows World Cafe: Asia and Bobby Chinn Cooks Asia, as well as hosting Top Chef Middle East. He also published the cookbooks Wild Wild East: Recipes & Stories from Vietnam and Bobby Chinn’s Vietnamese Food. Renowned for his enthusiasm for creating new dishes, Chef Bobby adds a signature “Bobby” twist to all of his creations. His residency at Vertigo will surely be no different, with a remarkable menu highlighting first-rate ingredients, such as oyster brûlée, tropical seafood ceviche, and Vietnamese spiced rack of lamb. For this exclusive residency, Chef Bobby will prepare a 4-course and 5-course Set Dinner for guests, taking place on the 25th, 26th and 27th April, located on the roof of the luxurious Vertigo restaurant at the Banyan Tree Bangkok, 61 floors above the glittering city below. The four-course set dinner is B4,400 (or B6,200 with wines), while the five-course set dinner is B5,100 (or B7,300 with wines). For more information and reservations, call 02 679 1200 or email: hostesses-bangkok@banyantree.com

FINE DINING LOVERS GUEST CHEF SERIES Sanpellegrino initiated the Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef Series to feature renowned chefs from top dining destinations around the world, bringing topnotch epicurean experiences to diners in Thailand. Sanpellegrino is dedicated to promoting the fine dining scene through top-class dining events, as well as on Finedininglovers.com, an online magazine sponsored

12 | APRIL 2018

by SanPellegrino and Acqua Panna that congregates an inspiring and engaging community to which the brands are intrinsically linked. For more inspiration on food and wine trends, stories, profiles and videos around the world visit Fine Dining Lovers, an online magazine sponsored by SanPellegrino and Acqua Panna. www.finedininglovers.com

bangkok101.com

my bangkok | CITY PULSE

Norbert Kostner

His career at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok spanned more than four decades, making Norbert Kostner this city’s longest serving Executive Chef

orn in an Italian mountainside village and later trained in Switzerland, 73-year-old Norbert Kostner came to Thailand as a young man of 22, not even speaking a word of English let alone Thai. After spending four years at the historic Dusit Thani Bangkok hotel, he moved to the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok— one of Thailand’s most iconic properties—as Executive Sous Chef under Michel Grange, who retired in 1980. Norbert went on to become the hotel’s celebrated and much-loved Executive Chef (he is still called “Papa” by many of the city’s younger kitchen talents), and although retired since two years ago, he remains a presence in Bangkok’s culinary scene. What did you know about the Mandarin Oriental before you started working there? I really knew nothing about it at all. It was only later I learned that it was Bangkok’s first luxury hotel—it opened in 1876—and that it had a fantastic history behind it. In the early days it was inspected by King Chulalongkorn, who deemed it to be fit to host visiting royalty. And since that time royal families from around the world, movie stars, famous authors, and heads of state have all stayed there. I am happy to say that during my time there it was voted ‘Best Hotel in the World’ for several years running. From your 42 years at the hotel, what are your stand out memories? There really are so many, but the most unforgettable, unique experience has to be the State Banquet for the 60th Anniversary of His Majesty’s accession to the throne. The seven-course banquet was held in the Chakri Throne Hall, and they had constructed a stateof-the-art kitchen for us. There were 400 VIPs, including 39 crowned heads, so everything had to be immaculate and orchestrated perfectly. We bangkok101.com

1970, there were no traffic jams, and there were still pedal rickshaws. There was also no Patpong or Nana Plaza, no real red-light district. Those bars were located all along Petchburi Road. But I have grown up with Bangkok, and as it has changed, so have I. The biggest changes I think, though, are the traffic and the people. The people in Bangkok don’t smile as much as they used to, and they don’t interact with each other. It all feels a bit more impersonal here than it was when I first fell in love with the place.

had many rehearsals, and I am so proud to say that the banquet was a great success. In my career nothing compared to that! What are some of your favourite places in Bangkok? When I have visitors I take them to the Emerald Buddha, the Reclining Buddha, and I also like to take them on a boat trip on the Chao Phraya River and surrounding khlongs (canals), to see how the people live there. We who live here should not forget we are living in an exotic country, and an exotic city. People coming from abroad for the first time are amazed at what they see. We look for an air-conditioned place to sit in, but visitors love to sit outside and watch the riverboats and goings-on around them. For myself I still go back at least once a week to the hotel, to see my friends who I worked with. I like to sit on the terrace by the river, followed by afternoon tea in The Author’s Lounge. This is something everyone should try at least once. You can feel the history seeping into you. How have you seen Bangkok change, for good or ill? In my 48 years there have been a lot of changes. When I first arrived, in

Do you think Bangkok does enough to preserve its old buildings? I am aware that many beautiful old buildings have been lost, such as the teakwood Hemingway’s, and this saddens me. I visit Penang sometimes, and all the beautiful old Chinese and British colonial era buildings are still there. It’s a wonderful place to spend time in. Thailand needs to keep its old buildings, or maybe tourists will have nothing to see anymore. Do you still engage in any culinary activities? Yes, I am still involved with a few food-related functions from time to time, such as the annual Bangkok Chefs Charity Dinner, of which I am proud to be one of the founders. HRH Maha Chakri Sirindhorn kindly agreed to be patron, and the first one made 3 million baht, while the most recent, held on March 3rd of this year, made 30 million—bringing the total now to over 100 million over nine years. And, of course, the chefs are happy to give their time for free. Thailand is my home, and although I try to visit Italy about once a year, I always feel happy when I come back; and happier still when I can help charities such as this to do something for the less fortunate in my adopted country. interview by Robin Westley Martin APRIL 2018 | 13

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Heritage & Culture

Although thoroughly Thai at its core, Bangkok is a complex cosmopolitan city with an amazing diversity of cultural influences By Bruce Scott

ewcomers to Bangkok, for the most part, begin their urban explorations by visiting the classic city landmarks that best illustrate the cultural and spiritual links to Thailand’s historic past (see pg. 18). However, once you’ve done the temple tour it’s worthwhile exploring the equally interesting cosmopolitan make up of this multi-faceted, manic metropolis.

History Lesson Modern-day Bangkok became the capital of Siam (as Thailand was previously known) in 1782, when General Chao Phraya Chakri, the founder of the ruling Chakri dynasty, assumed the throne as Rama I and moved the court from the west to the more strategic eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, relocating the prior Chinese who had settled there to the area between Wat Sam Pluem and Wat Sampheng. Under the direction of the new King, fortifications were rebuilt, and a series of moats

outwards from this new city centre. Under the reigns of successive monarchs, old temples, palaces, and monuments received renovations, while new canals were built, gradually expanding the areas available for agriculture and creating new transport networks. Outside the city walls, settlements sprang up along both river banks. To this day, ramshackle homes still line portions of the city’s rivers and khlongs (canals), giving a bit of insight into what life was like when waterways served as the main method of transportation and most of the population lived close on or near the water—often in floating houses.

Ethnic Settlements As Bangkok continued to grow, several non-Thai ethnic communities formed outside the city walls. Large numbers of Chinese immigrants settled in the city, especially during the early 19th century. They excelled in trade, and their prominence in the city was so great that Europeans visiting in the 1820s estimated that they formed over half the city’s population. Today, a visit to Bangkok’s Chinatown, with its many traditional Chinese temples, restaurants, and shops, shows that the core of this thriving community has held fast to its roots. And, more recently, culturally significant community spaces such as Lhong 1919 have shone a new spotlight on Bangkok’s important Chinese heritage.

Wat Sam Pluem were created, encircling the city in an area still known as Rattanakosin Island (although it’s just as commonly referred to as ‘Old Town’). Rama I modelled his city after the former capital of Ayutthaya, with the Grand Palace and royal temples by the river. Government offices were housed within the palace, while residences of nobles were concentrated south of the palace walls, and settlements spread 14 | A PR I L 2018

Lhong 1919 But the Chinese weren’t the only settlers. The Portuguese also established a sizeable community on the west side of the Chao Phraya River (see pg. 28), while a migration of Indians led to the establishment of two districts known as ‘Little India’. The smaller, but no less vibrant of the two bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Sri Guru Singh Sabah temple is the Pahurat neighbourhood, just west of Chinatown (between Pahurat Road, Chakraphet Road, and Triphet Road). Many Punjabi Sikhs settled here in the early 20th century, and the Sri Guru Singh Sabah temple, built in 1932, is said to be the second largest Sikh temple outside of India. However, an earlier wave of Hindu immigrants arrived in Bangkok from Tamil-Nadu in Southern India in the 1800s, and carved out their own community in the Silom Road/Surawong Road area of Bangrak. Here is where you’ll find Sri Maha Mariamman, Bangkok’s best-known Hindu temple, which was constructed in the 1860s. And to this day, each year in late October the ThaiIndian community celebrates its Hindu heritage during the Navratri Festival, in which a colourful (and wonderfully noisy) parade takes over the area in and around the intersection of Pan Road and Silom Road.

Christ Church Bangkok Of course, Western European influence is also clearly visible in the city, with churches such as Assumption Cathedral dotting the riverbank, and the Christ Church Bangkok anchoring the aptly named Convent Road in the CBD. And if you want to see how the Japanese have left their mark on this city, just take a stroll in and around the Thong Lor and Phrom Phong districts along Sukhumvit Road, where you’ll find some of the best sushi and sake this side of Mt. Fuji. bangkok101.com

Sri Maha Mariamman Hindu temple

HERITAGE HOMES

NAI LERT PARK HERITAGE HOME: Although the Swissôtel Nai Lert Park may be gone forever, its neighbour, the Nai Lert Park Heritage Home, lives on. The abode originally belonged to Phraya Bhakdi Noraset—better known as ‘Nai Lert’, one of Thailand’s most renowned developers—but after an extensive renovation it was reopened a few years back as a museum, offering a glimpse of traditional Central Thai architecture. The property consists of a pair of connected teakwood houses, surrounded by a sizeable balcony and a beautifully landscaped garden, while within artifacts and collectibles tell the story of the original owner’s illustrious life and career. www.nailertparkheritagehome.com M.R. KUKRIT’S HERITAGE HOME: Born of royal descent and educated at Oxford University, M.R. Kukrit Pramoj (1911-1995), was a remarkable Renaissance man who penned more than 40 novels, stage plays, short stories, and poems, started a political party in 1945, and served as the nation’s 13th prime minister from 1974 to 1975. Opened to the public following his 1995 passing, the M.R. Kukrit’s Heritage Home (19 Soi Prapinit) is an impressive compound where he once resided. It consists of five century-old teak homes collected in central Thailand over a period of 20 years. In addition to antiques and personal effects on display, there is a library which includes rare books Kukrit collected during his life. Oddly though, few international visitors seem to find their way here.

APRIL 2018 | 15

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

10 Must-See Monuments

Photos by Bruce Scott

Historic sites that underscore Bangkok’s diverse cultural identity

THE GRAND PALACE: Bangkok’s most famous landmark, and the number one must-see attraction for newcomers, has to be the dazzlingly spectacular Grand Palace, located in the heart of the Old City. Since its construction in 1782 it has been the home of the Thai King, the Royal court, and the administrative seat of government. However, for the hordes of visitors that arrive each day it’s the beautiful architecture, intricate artistic detail, and expertly manicured grounds throughout that makes it so visually entrancing. The entire complex is quite large, and it can take several hours to see everything. One of the main draws is Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), which contains the small, but very famous and greatly revered Emerald Buddha that dates back to the 14th century. The palace is open daily from 8:30am till 3:30pm, and adult admission is B500. There is also a strict dress code for visitors (no tank tops, bare feet, bare shoulders, etc).

16 | A PRIL 2018

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

WAT PHO: Commonly referred to as ‘The Temple of the Reclining Buddha’, Wat Pho is one of Bangkok’s largest temple complexes. Located in the historic Old City—not far from the Grand Palace— the temple is famous for its giant reclining Buddha, which is covered in gold leaf and measures 46 metres long by 15 metres high. Construction was completed in 1788, and the property also includes four chapels that contain 394 gilded Buddha images, and intricately detailed murals that cover the walkways. Nowadays, Wat Pho is also considered the leading school of massage in Thailand, making it a great place to get a traditional Thai massage treatment. The temple is open daily from 8 am till 5pm, and adult admission is B100. Visitors must wear appropriate clothing, meaning no exposed shoulders, or exposed skin above the knee.

WAT ARUN: Historic and stunning to behold, Wat Arun, also known as ‘Temple of the Dawn’, is said to have been first envisioned by King Taksin back in 1768. After fleeing the former capital of Ayutthaya, which was besieged by the Burmese army, he arrived at this spot—on the west side of Chao Praya River, now opposite Tha Thien Pier—just as dawn was breaking. The temple once housed the Emerald Buddha, but it was relocated when the capital and Palace were moved to the opposite side of the river. During the reign of Rama III (between 1824 and 1851) the central prang was extended and the spires were decorated with porcelain so they would glimmer in the sunshine. The temple recently underwent an extensive cleaning and renovation, and now that the scaffolding has been removed it once again takes its place as one the most revered riverside landmarks. The temple is open from 8am to 5:30pm, and admission is B100. bangkok101.com

WAT SAKET: Also known as the ‘Temple of the Golden Mount’, Wat Saket sits atop an artificial man-made hill, located between Boriphat Road and Lan Luang Road, and getting to the top requires a climb up some 300 steps. According to an inscription, the circumference of the pagoda base is 330 metres, and the total height is 76.5 metres—which means stunning panoramic views of the Old City from the summit. There is also a spooky cemetery built into the base of the Golden Mount, because in the late 18th century it served as the capital’s crematorium and the dumping ground for some 60,000 plague victims. Each November a large Temple Fair takes place here, complete with coloured lanterns, decorative flags, food vendors, and fairground games and rides, and during this period the golden chedi is also draped in massive bright-red cloth. Wat Saket is open daily from 9am till 5pm and admission is free.

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LOHA PRASAT: Wat Ratchanatdaram is a Buddhist temple located at the intersection of Ratchadamnoen Klang and Maha Chai Road, and within its beautiful grounds sits Loha Prasat, which translates as “iron castle” or “iron monastery”. Construction began in 1846, and the highlight of the 36-metre-high building is its 37 metal spires (symbolizing the 37 virtues that are required to reach enlightenment). These spires used to be black, but were recently painted gold, giving the structure a very different look. There is a golden seated Buddha within the temple, as well as many beautiful murals, paintings, and door carvings, and the labyrinthine interior also features many small meditation cells used by monks.

WAT BENCHAMABOPHIT: Despite being one of Bangkok’s most beautiful temples, Wat Benchamabophit—also known as ‘The Marble Temple’—is not as visited as some of the city’s other major temple landmarks. Located at the intersection of Thanon Rama V and Thanon Si Ayutthaya, the temple was constructed in 1899 under the orders of King Chulalongkorn the Great (Rama V). The marble ubosot was designed by Prince Narisara Nuvativongse, half-brother of King Chulalongkorn, and utilized Carrara marble imported from Italy (hence the building’s nickname). It’s open daily from 8am to 5:30pm, and admission is B20 (appropriate dress required).

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Photo by Tewkes / Flickr.com

PHRA SUMEN FORT: Only two forts remain out of the 14 that were built more than two centuries ago to protect Bangkok from possible invasions. For many, Phra Sumen Fort, constructed in 1782 and located on the Eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River—on Phra Athit Road (near Phra Athit pier)—is the most interesting to visit. The octagonal white coloured structure stands three floors high, and contains a number of rooms where weapons and ammunition were stored. On the top floor is a museum displaying items found in the fort during its renovation. The fort is open daily and admission is free. bangkok101.com

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DEMOCRACY MONUMENT: Located on Ratchadamnoen Klang—a grand, European-style boulevard in the Old City—the aptly named Democracy Monument was built in 1939 to commemorate the 1932 revolution that ended the absolute monarchy and introduced Siam’s first constitution. The design of the monument incorporates Art Deco and Socialist era artistic styles, which were both popular at the time, and is also full of numerical symbolism. For example, the four wings are each 24 metres high, signifying the 24th of June, the date the new constitution was signed. Not surprisingly, during periods of military dictatorships demonstrators have assembled here to protest and call for a return to democracy (most notably in 1973, 1992, and 2014).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE: Now an exquisite museum, the Jim Thompson House was once, as the name suggests, the home of American businessman and silk magnate Jim Thompson, who arrived in Bangkok shortly after the end of World War II. In 1959 construction began on this grand former residence, which was meant to both house Thompson’s unparalleled collection of Southeast Asian art and artefacts, and also preserve traditional Thai-style houses—primarily constructed of wood, and collected from all parts of Thailand in the 1950s and 1960s—which were incorporated into the overall structure. Tragically, Jim Thompson mysteriously disappeared forever in 1967, but his amazing legacy lives on. The museum is located at 6, Soi Kasemsan 2 (a block away from Bangkok National Stadium), and is open daily from 9am to 6pm. Entrance is B150 for adults.

ERAWAN SHRINE: Conveniently located just outside the Chit Lom BTS station, the immensely popular Erawan Shrine was erected in 1956 in order to mitigate the bad karma suspected to be the cause of all the trouble besetting the building of the government-owned Erawan Hotel (mishaps included cost overruns, injuries to labourers, and the loss of a shipload of Italian marble). After consultations with astrologers, a shrine to honour the four-faced Brahman God Than Tao Mahaprom was considered to be an auspicious solution. The Erawan Hotel eventually opened to unanimous acclaim, although it was replaced in 1991 by the privately owned Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok. In August of 2015, a bomb exploded at the gates of the shrine, leaving 20 people dead, but devotees still flock here dutifully night and day to worship and, on occasion, hire the shrine’s resident Thai dancers to perform—thus ensuring that their prayers at the shrine are answered.

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Heritage Hotels

Two recently opened boutique guesthouses have breathed new life into a pair of derelict historic buildings By Bruce Scott

1905 HERITAGE CORNER: It took close to four

years of meticulous renovation before the endlessly charming 1905 Heritage Corner was finally ready to open in January of this year. But owners Mark and Nan—and their steady stream of satisfied guests—know it was all well worth the effort. And while this luxurious guesthouse may be small in size, as there are only three units in total, the rooms are large and elegantly appointed, with soft comfortable beds that you’ll sink into and never want to leave again.

Gorgeously comfortable beds

Building exterior The corner property is itself a century-old, colonialstyle building located in the historic royal quarter of Bangkok, a short walk from the Grand Palace and many other civic landmarks. It’s one of a small number of protected crown properties that encircle Phuton Square, a historic yet still active Sino-Thai community of family merchants and restaurants. Evenings and weekends in this laidback enclave are amazingly quiet, despite being in the heart of the Old City. Taking a stroll around the surrounding streets at night feels miles removed from urbanized Bangkok, as the only sounds are those of men playing sepak takraw (a traditional Thai sport) and vendors selling khanom pang sod sai, a toasted buttered bun served with sweet fillings. Not surprisingly, the moniker of the guesthouse indicates its age, as it is believed to have been built between 1904 and 1906 (the owners finally settling on 1905 as the date to use in the name). Within, the interior décor harkens back to an Edwardian era look, with polished wood floors, antique-style door locks and bathroom tap fittings, and stately wooden period furniture. Meanwhile, modern fittings and amenities are either hidden or discretely positioned, in both the rooms and common areas. And just to give visitors some sense of how much 20 | APRIL 2018

work went into the renovation, the rear walls on the upper floor—at the top of the steep and narrow wooden staircase—have been left untouched, complete with cracked concrete and crumbling plaster. Seeing this before and after makes the remodelling all the more impressive. For overnight guests in the two upstairs rooms a sumptuous set menu breakfast is laid out in the front reception area, which in turn references the building’s history as a fashionable teahouse for the gentry in the

Breakfast setting early part of the 20th century. Meanwhile, a petite rear courtyard offers a second, naturally-lit private breakfast nook for the ground floor guests. Either way, the breakfast spread is truly a feast, featuring eggs cooked to order alongside bacon, grilled vegetables, toast, juice, coffee (or tea) and fruits. However, it’s the addition of delicious Thai snacks and sweets, which rotate on a daily basis depending on what local vendors are selling, that add a bangkok101.com

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Ornate tea set traditional touch to the morning meal. As an added bonus, Nan and Mark are usually both on hand and happy to point out the details of the neighbourhood and its street food traditions. It’s also worth noting that the pair run the ThaiCraft Fair Trade shop, which is located literally just around the corner from the hotel. As an active promoter of Thai village artisans, many handcrafted items and decorations from the shop—the cutlery, for instance—are used throughout the guesthouse. Room prices start from B3,645. For more details, visit the website at: www.1905heritagecorner.com.

identity as much as possible. For instance, the theatre’s giant movie screen—which was discovered in working condition—is still in use and now boasts high-tech 3D mapping projection technology. Meanwhile, the building’s iconic Art Deco coloured glass window remains intact. As a nod to the building’s storied history, four of the 26 guest rooms are decorated under different cinematic themes, which also reflect the different eras in the cinema’s history. When it opened in 1912 it was a casino (until casinos were banned in 1917 by royal command), after which it became the Prince Rama movie theatre, originally showing silent films. The theatre soon became the heart and soul of the surrounding neighbourhood since the audiences often shopped in the area as well. The property’s third incarnation began in 1975 when a triple projection Cinerama screen was added, although it wasn’t long before shopping mall multiplexes overtook

PRINCE THEATRE HERITAGE STAY: Down a

small alley in the heart of Bangkok’s Bang Rak district— 441/1 Charoengkrung Rd, Siwiang, to be precise—a century-old building stood neglected for almost a decade. It was rundown, with a broken roof and piles of trash inside. The decrepit box office and torn film posters that remained were scant reminders of its former function.

Master Suite

Prince Theatre lobby

these types of stand-alone cinemas. In its final years, from 1985 to 2010, it operated as a porno movie theatre, and even that seedy chapter is recounted in one of the room themes. Guests visiting the hotel first get a feel for the overall movie motif at the check-in counter, which is styled like a classic cinema box office. Likewise, the lobby displays movie collectibles and memorabilia, including an old-style movie projector, photos, movie handbills, props, and more. There’s also common an area called the Box Office Bar, which serve the cocktails and mocktails named after movies, and as well as tea and coffee. Shared room single bed units, with ensuite bathroom, start from B1,000 per night, while the more luxurious Master Suites and Duplex Suites start at B4,200 per night. Visit www.princeheritage.com for more details.

However, this past February, after almost a year of renovation, the building was reopened as Prince Theatre Heritage Stay, the city’s only ex-theatre boutique hotel. The Bang Rak area itself has become something of a creative and artistic hub in the city over the last few years, and the proliferation of these sorts of cool and unique guesthouses definitely adds to the appeal for travellers looking for a mix of new and traditional culture. The Prince Theatre’s multi-million baht preservation project was carried out by owners Montara Hospitality Group under the ‘Heritage Stay’ concept, meaning all efforts are made to both preserve and restore the structure’s original

Duplex Suite

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Musical Mavericks

Famed Thai-American composer Somtow Sucharitkul lends his support to help the Siam Sinfonietta youth orchestra perform two prestigious US concerts

The Siam Sinfonietta youth orchestra performing at Carnegie Hall in 2017 By Lekha Shankar

f there’s one prodigious musical artiste who carries the weight of Thailand’s musical heritage on his shoulders, it’s Somtow Sucharitkul, easily the country’s most renowned and recognized musical genius. The irony, however, is that he’s also an American citizen, who won fame as a horror and science fiction-writer in the US and then moved back to Thailand—the country of his birth—in 2001. After that, the musical scene in the Kingdom has never been the same. Somtow started Opera Siam, the first international opera company in Bangkok, and to quote the UK publication Opera Magazine: “In just five years, he made Bangkok the artistic hub of SE Asia.” This brilliant composer created some amazing operas with Thai themes, including Madana, Mae Naak, Ayodhya, and The Silent Prince. He is currently involved with a

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phenomenal 10-opera series called Dasjati - The Ten Lives of the Buddha. When completed, it will be the biggest production of its kind in opera history. Apart from his own prodigious musical outputs, Somtow is noted for discovering and developing musical talents of the future, including the young and brilliant musical conductor and composer Trisdee na Patalung. He’s also been instrumental in the formation of the Siam Philharmonic, the Siam Sinfonietta Orchestra, the Siam Opera Choir, and the Calliope Chamber Choir. The Siam Sinfonietta has been in the news as of late, as they have been invited to perform at the worldfamous Carnegie Hall in New York City on April 24th of this year. This youth orchestra was founded by Somtow five years back, and today it is one of the most acclaimed youth orchestras in the world, having won awards at the top music festivals in Austria and Germany, and having performed in top international music halls including The Konzerthaus, Musikverein, and Disney Hall. The Siam Sinfonietta has taken part in the well-known ‘Sounds of Spring International Music Festival’ at Carnegie Hall twice before—and won the Gold Award both times— but this year they have been invited not to partake in the Festival, but to be a “Showcase Orchestra”. And while this is an amazing honour and privilege, Somtow confessed that it was not easy to send a 60-member youth orchestra to the US without big funding behind the project. For this reason, various fundraising concerts were held in the city, in order to raise money for the tour, including an epic ‘Star Wars’ concert, with music from all the nine parts of the famed film-series. bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE him as well. “He’s my mentor,” he stated simply. Trisdee will be conducting the Siam Sinfonietta Orchestra at their Carnegie Hall concert, just like he did for their earlier two concerts at the same venue. “It’s every musician’s dream to play there!” he gushed, adding that he could not wait to perform there again. The musical numbers that the Siam Sinfonietta perform include those of top Western composers, but Somtow went on to explain that the forthcoming US tour of this youth orchestra will be part of the 48 Forever project, which both celebrates the music of HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej and presents it in the context of world composers. The maestro went on to say that this was especially important because of the sensational discovery at the Smithsonian Museum of some musical compositions which were said to have been created by the late King Rama IX. This has not been fully made public as of yet, but that will probably be done at a special concert Photo by Lekha Shankar

“Help get Siam Sinfonietta to Carnegie Hall” read the unabashed headlines on the flyers that advertised the concert. Somtow admits he was not ashamed to ask for funds for this worthy cause. After all, he has “discovered” so many young musical talents, coached them for several years without charging any fees, and groomed them to perform at international levels.

Trisdee na Patalung “We have always depended on public and private sponsors,” he says simply. He also noted that he was waiting to hear from the Ministry of Culture regarding the Carnegie Hall trip. The maestro, known for down-to-earth honesty, added frankly, “We only need 5 million baht more, which one good person can donate. But the bigger we get abroad, the more difficult it gets at home.” At a recent Bangkok press conference, held to announce the US concert, Somtow was accompanied by Daniel Draganov, Director of the well-known Deutsche Opera Chamber Orchestra, who had witnessed the Siam Sinfonietta wining top awards at the famed Bayreuth Festival in Germany. He raved about their “fantastic talent”, and said that Thailand should be proud of them. Youngsters Chot Buasuwan and Kornchanok Treevittayanuruk, who were present, said they were proud to be part of the Siam Sinfonietta Orchestra, and to have performed in top international venues. “It was awesome, and we can’t wait to perform there again,” exclaimed the youngsters, who have been training with Somtow for more than ten years. They said that what they enjoyed most about working with the maestro was his teaching technique. “He shows us how to play, but then leaves it us to find our own way of playing it. There are no restrictions of the right and the wrong way!” Agreeing with them was conductor Trisdee na Patalung—himself praised by the Italian media as “One of the world’s top ten conductors under 30 to watch”—who gave full credit to Somtow for bringing out the best in bangkok101.com

Trisdee na Patalung with members of Siam Sinfonietta performance by the Siam Sinfonietta at the Reagan Amphitheatre, in Washington DC, on April 26th (organized by the Smithsonian Museum). Giving more details, Somtow stated that two boxes of documents, including some music manuscripts connected to HM King Rama IX’s compositions of the 1950s, had been found by Dr. Paul Taylor in the Library of Congress of the Smithsonian Museum. They contain original typescripts of the lyrics, and alternative rhythms and harmonies. A lot of paperwork has gone back and forth, including exchanges with Thai Princess HRH Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, in an attempt to confirm the authenticity of these musical transcripts (a verification that is still in process). Interestingly, it all happened because Serge Rips, an American diplomat and military official based in Asia, had been asked to take care of processing HM Thai King Rama IX’s USA copyright paperwork, all of which was on file at the US Library of Congress. Somtow is sure that the presence of these unseen musical compositions of the late great King Rama IX will give a huge boost to Thailand’s musical heritage abroad. From that point of view, the maestro is indeed proud that the Siam Sinfonietta’s upcoming performances in New York and Washington will contribute to this larger aim. APRIL 2018 | 23

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

In Ghost, We Trust

Artist Sornchai Phongsa is a living example of the way heritage and traditions, such as belief in ghosts, can deeply influence one’s vision Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

large smile brightens the baby-like face of this jovial, warm, and very talkative young man. But don’t be fooled by his youthful appearance, Sornchai Phongsa is one of the most promising painters of his generation. This 26-year-old painter already has an M.F.A from the faculty of painting, sculpture, and graphic art at Silpakorn University. He’s also completed an artist residency in Paris, and has been selected to be an artist in residence in Tokyo this autumn. Last year, Sornchai exhibited his series Mons Spirits Totem as part of a special exhibition at the Bangkok Arts and Cultural Centre (BACC) entitled ‘Early Years Projects for Young Artists’. Spread across large canvases, these giant artworks evoke ancient ancestors—dark images reflecting serenity, but also danger and an implied violence, or even death. The large portraits of spirits are also partially hidden by brightly coloured red threads that hang down to the floor, which in one instance is covered

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by charcoal and ash. They are, in short, disturbing images of haunting faces that both reflect the identity of the young artist and leave viewers with a mix of emotions. Sornchai originally hails from Central Thailand, and is part of a Mon ethnic tribe that have been living in the mountains, fairly isolated from any urban development. “My family emigrated long time ago from Myanmar, fleeing Burmese military,” explains the soft-spoken artist. “I, myself, was born in Thailand. But we, the Mon people, are officially not considered as Thai. We have, for example, no identity papers. We live a bit like ghosts. I had to fight, from the age of 10 until I was 22, to gain Thai citizenship and be able to go to university and study further.” This relative isolation develops a strong sense of community among Mon people, and it has helped in preserving ancestral traditions. “I am living a dual identity,” he goes on to say. “On one side, I am purely Mon by respecting ancestors, and bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE believing in all the ghosts and spirits surrounding us who influence our lives. They can protect or destroy us, and thus we need to organize ceremonies for these ancestors. However, at the same time I have been living now in an urban contemporary environment, adapting myself to another way of life.

The word “ghosts” is one that seems to appear quite a lot in Somchai’s speech. “It is part of the Thai heritage and tradition,” he adds. “It certainly delights or scares all of us. We all love to think about the invisible, about these ghosts who try to give us a sign. I have been studying this aspect a lot, not only in the Mon ethnic groups scattered around the country but also within other ethnic peoples, such as the Karen or the Tai Yai; observing their beliefs, and the way they mix shamanism, animism, and Buddhist practices.”

“For example, Mon sacrifice animals to ancestors, while Buddhist Thai protect them. Mon live a lot in spirituality, while Thais are more and more infused into a materialistic world. I personally stand in-between, and this duality is certainly reflected in my work.”

When exhibiting last year at the BACC, the young painter encountered some curious and unexpected reactions. “Some people felt very scared by my paintings,” he recalls. “My brother, for example, who lives upcountry, refused to look at the portraits or even to enter the exhibition. Some other visitors also felt afraid or insecure. “Actually, the purpose of my work is not to scare people with these ghosts. It hangs more on the sense of ceremony and the beliefs which drive Thai life. Ghosts indeed are positive elements in our lives. They force us to behave well because if we act badly they will punish us. For the Mon, spirit worshiping is also a way to strengthen family ties. My portraits are here to remind viewers that we all need to take care of our ancestry and make tamboon [merit]. “Any Thai can identify his or her self with my painted ancestors,” he says in conclusion. “And finally, my painted ghosts are also a wake-up call for Mon people. To tell them not to be ghosts anymore in Thailand!” bangkok101.com

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CITY PULSE | on the block

Kudichin Walk

Dining and discovery in Bangkok’s historic old Portuguese quarter By Allison Nicole Smith

The beautiful Santa Cruz Church

hough Thailand was never colonized, a number of foreign influences have nevertheless managed to leave a footprint in the Kingdom. The Portuguese were the first Europeans to visit Siam in 1511, which jumpstarted positive trading agreement between the two nations—a harmonious union that continues to this day. Older than Bangkok itself, on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, the tight-knit Kudichin community is all that remains of the Portuguese quarter after the fall of Ayutthaya in the 18th century. Although Kudichin’s winding sois and squat houses resemble a typical Thai neighbourhood, the crimson dome of the Santa Cruz Church is visible across the river, indicating that the fifth-generation Portuguese descendants here have managed to hold fast to many of their traditions. Built in 1770 and then rebuilt in 1916 after a fire, this Renaissance-neoclassical-style church is just

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one vestige of Kudichin’s European past. Catholic imagery can be found elsewhere in Kudichin, including mosaics of the Virgin Mary. Though they represent a minority, the residents of Kudichin continue to celebrate their unique heritage through public museum education and distinctive Thai-Portuguese cuisine. Siamese-Portuguese relations can be traced back to Siam’s ancient capital, Ayutthaya. Founded in 1350, Ayutthaya was cosmopolitan in nature and at the centre of international commerce and foreign relations. The capital’s welcoming attitude and wealth of resources attracted many foreigners, most notably merchants and traders, from diverse areas of the globe, including Persia, India, China, Japan, and the Dutch Republic. Though Siam was friendly toward a number of European powers, a coup in 1688 against the Western presence in the Kingdom expelled most of the Europeans— bangkok101.com

on the block | CITY PULSE

Kuan An Keng Shrine

Santa Cruz Church interior

Baan Kudichin Museum

except for the Portuguese. King Taksin was appreciative of the weapons the Portuguese had supplied to the Siamese military, which proved invaluable during the wars against Burma. Many Portuguese settlers integrated deeply into Siamese society, including important court positions. However, in 1767, the Burmese launched a massive assault on Ayutthaya, ultimately sacking the city and forcing the Kingdom to relocate. According to legend, King Taksin watched the first rays of sunlight break across Thonburi, and declared the illuminated land Siam’s new capital. As a gesture of gratitude for their service in the war against Burma, King Taksin allocated a plot of land along the riverbank to Portuguese soldiers and the families, as well as Muslim and Chinese settlers too. This resulted in the community now known as Kudichin—a compound of the Thai words kudi, meaning “a building where monks live”, and chin, meaning “Chinese” (the neighbourhood was once the spot for the homes of Chinese monks, hence the name). Despite its rich history and scenic riverside location, few modern tourists make the time to visit, but Navinee Pongthai hopes to change that. About a year ago, Navinee converted her aunt’s house into the Baan Kudichin Museum, which displays historic photographs and artifacts illustrating Portuguese life in this historic district. Though small in size, it describes Portuguese history in Siam with surprising detail. The museum also offers free admission, though a donation is encouraged. On the first floor, visitors can relax in a semi-open air courtyard lush with greenery. Silhouetted against the backdrop of blue

azulejo tiles, a statue of the Virgin Mary clasps her hands together in prayer. In the background, you can hear the hourly peal and toll of the Santa Cruz Church intermingle with the sound of schoolchildren. The highlight of the museum is its café, where Navinee serves Thai-style desserts, alongside her signature dish sappayak. Influenced by the Portuguese heritage, sappayak is a simple but very tasy snack of minced pork, chili, and potatoes sprinkled with tamarind. After the ingredients are mixed together, it’s cooked over a tao, an old-school charcoal burner in her home kitchen across the way, and then stuffed in a buttery soft bun. Kudichin is a bike-friendly neighbourhood, as there are no large roads, only labyrinthine alleyways. You can also follow the walkway along the riverbank, which leads to the beautifully preserved Kuan An Keng Shrine, which is one of the oldest in Thonburi. Adorned with hand-painted murals and intricate carvings, is an exquisite representation of traditional Chinese architecture. Kudichin is best known for its light and crumbly, duck egg-based khanom farang, or “foreigner cakes”. When Portuguese settlers first arrived in Ayutthaya, they didn’t have access to dairy or yeast, explains Teepakorn Sudjidjune, the owner of Thanusingha Bakery. As a result, his ancestors had to adjust their traditional sponge cake recipe. Teepakorn uses his great-great grandfather’s original 500-year old recipe, which effectively introduced bread to Thailand. In fact, the Thai word for bread—pang— comes from the Portuguese word pão. If you come at an opportune time, you can also watch

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CITY PULSE | on the block

Khanom Farang Teepakorn and his family prepare the cakes in the cozy kitchen of their dual home and bakery. It’s a delight to watch the thick, white cake batter being stirred and then poured slowly into the antique baking tray. The cakes are also packaged and distributed to various shops across Bangkok, connecting the rest of the city to this culinary treasure. Each khanom farang is topped with various dried fruits, a Chinese tradition imbued with special significance; the dried persimmon, in particular, promotes good fortune. Kudichin’s history has become important to even its residents who aren’t of Portuguese descent, like Kanita Sakulthong, whose home-style restaurant Baan Sakulthong showcases a medley of Thai-Portuguese cuisine—from recipes bequeathed to her from her husband’s third-generation grandmother. For Kanita, this is how she preserves her family’s history. Her husband’s grandmother was paralyzed and couldn’t cook anymore, but still wanted to eat the foods she grew up with. So, she instructed Kanita on how to cook these dishes for her. However, she unfortunately passed away before she could share all the recipes she knew with Kanita. Though Kanita is not of Portuguese descent, her ancestors used to work in the kitchen of the Royal Palace, and those recipes were handed down through the family, including Kanita. Not surprisingly, her restaurant has received local notoriety. In particular, she’s known for her

ets

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Baan Sakulthong business in the future. Her restaurant currently requires a reservation beforehand, and she hopes to also one day have a stall in front of her house to sell Thai-Portuguese baked goods. Similarly, Navinee hopes to expand her museum’s upstairs exhibition to include additional translations for foreigners to continue to share this unique culture with both Bangkok residents and visitors from around the world.

CHAO PHRAYA RIVER

Thanusingha Bakery

an S

HIGHLIGHT MAP OF KUDICHIN DISTRICT

The tsab

Kuan An Keng Shrine

Windsor House

bird-shaped Thai dim dum. Her food has also been featured at food fairs in the city and will continue to be in the future. However, her signature dish is khanom jeen, a Thai recipe with a Portuguese twist. According to Kanita, the settlers wanted to have Portuguese food, so their home cooks searched for local ingredients to use for substitutes, swapping white sauce for curry paste and coconut milk, and vermicelli noodles topped with minced chicken in place of potatoes. Another specialty is tommafad, a Thai version of the Portuguese stew cozido, though her version is loaded with spices and served with rice in true Thai fashion. According to Kanita, the Portuguese Ambassador of Thailand praised the dish when he first arrived in Bangkok and dined at her restaurant. She’s also opened her home to Portuguese travellers who’ve likewise complimented the unique authenticity of her cooking. Kanita is also looking forward to expanding her

Baan Kudichin Museum

Baan Sakulthong

Santa Cruz Church

GETTING THERE Getting to Kudichin can be a schlep, but it’s easy enough aboard the Chao Phraya River Express boat. The most scenic route is to get off at Memorial Bridge and then walk across the river to the Thonburi side. From there, the route is obvious, as you can simply walk in the direction of the Santa Cruz Church, the centrepiece of the Catholic neighbourhood which is visible from every vantage point.

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made in thailand | CITY PULSE

SiamGems Heritage Museum A dazzling display of Thailand’s precious jewels and gemstones

hailand has a long history with jewellery, including gold-crafting and goldsmith techniques originally introduced by Hindu settlers some 2,000 years ago, and one of the most vibrant gem markets in the world. In addition to locally sourced baubles—like the famous dazzling red ‘Siamese Rubies’ from Chanthaburi, and sapphires sourced from Khanchanaburi, Phecthabun, and Sukhothai (among other locales)—Thailand’s centralized location in Southeast Asia has made it an ideal gateway for gemstone trading worldwide. However, it can all seem a bit of a murky world to outsiders, full of frauds, fakes, and forgeries, so a visit to the SiamGems Heritage Museum presents an ideal opportunity to shine some light this glamorous part of Thailand’s multi-faceted heritage. Open for just over a year now, the state-of-the-art museum is a gem in its own right; starting with its space age exterior, and continuing throughout the entire interior. The humungous 5 million baht golden elephant sculpture that greets you as you enter the bangkok101.com

glittering spacious atrium is based on a style from the early Ayutthaya kingdom, and depicts two elephants walking in Thailand’s main river—the Chao Phraya—and symbolizes eternal fortune and prosperity. The tour begins with a 360-degree surround-sound short film, which takes you through the story of the natural creation of gold and precious gems, the often back breaking labour involved in finding them, and the craftsmanship that goes into the end product. Afterwards your journey winds through the museum’s five themed rooms, each of which adds to the complete story. Room 1 recounts the History of Jewellery, from the Bead Age to the Bronze Age and on to the Gold Age— some 6,000 years B.C.—when Thailand became known as Suvarnabhumi or “land of gold”. Room 2 is the Reflection Room, which uses holograms to help demonstrate the different types of cuts and shapes into which a gemstone can be fashioned. Room 3 is called the Chamber of Virtue and focuses on the Nopparat belief system in which nine gemstones—ruby, moonstone, zircon, emerald, yellow sapphire,

diamond, blue sapphire, garnet, and chrysoberyl—are the symbols of the nine celestial beings; frequently used for religious and royal celebrations, decorations, and insignias. Room 4 showcases the stunningly beautiful SiamGems Tiara of the Lady, while the 5th and final room is a comprehensive history and journey through every aspect of jewellery making—from the initial design, to cutting, framing, and mounting. Here you can read the historical timelines detailing the evolution of design, along with the changes in fashions that have taken place through the ages. You can also see the tools used at every stage of the design and manufacturing process and, at the end, use an interactive screen that allows you to design your own piece of jewellery and send it to your home e-mail. by Gary Anthony Rutland

SiamGems Heritage Museum 234 Pradithmanutham Rd. Open daily: noon-5pm Tel: 02 949 9500 www.siamgemsheritage.com

APRIL 2018 | 29

CITY PULSE | bet of bkk

The Island of Artisans Visiting the urban oasis of Koh Kret is like taking a step back in time Words and photos by Bruce Scott

Earthenware ready for the kiln at Pottery Factory Praditwong

his “island” (it wasn’t always one) is located in Nonthaburi province, just north of Bangkok proper. It came into existence because of a canal that was created as a shipping shortcut—to avoid a rather severe oxbow in the river—back in 1722. This canal, named Khlong Lat Kret Noi, became gradually larger due to tides and soil erosion, thus creating the island of Koh Kret. This thumb-shaped plot of land is also one of the oldest hamlets of the Mon people, who migrated to Thailand nearly 300 years ago from Myanmar (then called Burma). One of the most recognizable landmarks here is the white Mutao Pagoda—locals call it Chedi Eiang (leaning chedi)—which is slightly tilted towards the river due to currents, erosion, and the force of continual heavy winds over the years. The island welcomes visitors every day, however many shops are closed on weekdays, so weekends and public holidays are the best—if most crowded— times to visit. After paying a few baht for the ferry that takes you to the island from Wat Sanam Nua, you can explore Koh Kret on foot, or rent a bicycle (about B40) from one of the easy to spot vendors near the boat dock. The entire thumb-shaped landmass is a mere 2 km by 1 km so getting around is pretty easy. It’s also very safe, as no cars allowed on the island. As you disembark you can either turn right to visit the main souvenir shopping Leaning Chedi

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area and the leaning chedi, but by going in the opposite direction you can explore the island’s interior first and get a feel for the laid back pace and small town atmosphere. As you make your way along the paved path, a pleasant first stop is Coffee House No. 1, where the barista here still prepares coffee in traditional clay pots. Make sure to get a seat—a cushion actually—on the long wooden platform overlooking the small canal next to the restaurant, and swing your legs back and forth as you enjoy the tranquil setting, the classic jazz that fills the air, and surprisingly cheap food on the menu. Further along the same path, make a stop at Baan Silp Siam to learn about the classic artistry behind the Khon mask, which is used in Thai traditional theatre. The owner, Suthiwut ‘Wut’ Jirawatwanit, is a student of the prestigious Royal Craftsmen School (Wittayalai Nai Wang Chai) and his goal is to preserve many ancient Thai art forms. Quite a few of his exquisitely hand-painted Khon masks miniatures, which he makes and paints himself, are for sale, but he also makes full size papier-mache Khon masks with shell decoration if you want to special order. Just tell him what kind of character—demon, monkey, deity—you want and he’ll customize the colour, expression, and anything else you desire (it takes up to 2 weeks to complete, and costs around B15,000). He also offers Thai classical dance and basic Khon dance bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Khon mask

Dangling feet at Coffee House No.1 classes for both Thais and non-Thais alike, and weekend classical Khon dance-drama performances are performed here at 12pm and 3pm. Continuing along you might be tempted to stop in at Chit Beer, a marvelous 70 seat riverfront restaurant and brewery that is open from 11am till 9pm on weekends and public holidays. Many of the customers are also students who come to take beer brewing lessons from owner Wichit ‘Chit’ Saiklao, the acknowledged “grandfather” of the Thai homebrew scene. Surprisingly what Chit does is technically illegal—you can’t brew your own beer in Thailand—and he occasionally has to pay fines, but he shrugs off this inconvenience with a laugh and keeps right on going. It’s his self-proclaimed mission to educate people through his brewing academy, and judging by the number of customers here on a typical Sunday afternoon, I’d say “mission accomplished!” After passing Chit Beer there is a bend in the road that veers right. Following this route will take you past Pottery Factory Praditwong, where a simple unpaved path leads you to the barn-like workshop of Abhisit ‘Arm’ Praditwong, the young owner and master craftsman who spends his days here making exquisite pottery. For around B100 you can even try your hand at making your own clay pot on his potter’s wheel. Interestingly, this humble craftsman is a direct descendant of royal Mon ancestors who emigrated from Hanthawaddy City and later helped King Taksin the Great of Thonburi fight against Burmese invaders. From this point on your walk or ride will be relatively uninterrupted, covering about 4 km as you make your way back to the main shipping area—passing through the peaceful neighborhoods of local residents. It’s a serene jaunt, and you’ll do lots of waving along the way, but just be mindful of the many speed bumps all along the tree-lined paved path. When you reach Wat Sao Thong bangkok101.com

Brewing lessons at Chit beer Thong it’s time to “walk” your bike, if you have one, as you approach the always bustling main shopping areas. Here you can purchase souvenirs, including the pottery and earthenware products which the Mon people on this island are famous for. In addition, at many of the pottery shop stalls you can see the craftsmen (and women) at work adding the finishing touches to their beautifully designed clay pieces before putting them in the kiln for firing. Of course, there are other things to shop for besides pottery, and one of the most popular souvenirs is Thai sweets, of which there are plenty here. Choose from classic desserts such as: Khanom Gluay (steamed banana pudding with coconut); Woon Ka Ti Bai Toey (coconut milk and pandan jelly); Foi Tong (sweet shredded egg yolk); and the infamous Khao Neow Ma Muang (sweet sticky rice with mango and coconut cream). NOTE: To learn more about local pottery making, visit the Pottery Learning Centre, located on the ground floor of King Rama V Museum near the island’s largest temple, Wat Poramaiyikawas.

GETTING THERE Take air-conditioned number 166 bus from Victory Monument going in the direction of Talad Pakkret (Pakkret Market). On weekends you can take Bangkok Chao Phraya Express boat to Nonthaburi Pier, and continue the rest of the way by taxi. You can also get fairly close to Koh Kret using the recently opened MRT Purple Line, getting off at either Phra Nang Klao Bridge station, or Nonthaburi Civic Centre station, and then taking a taxi the rest of the way.

A PRIL 2018 | 31

CITY PULSE | making merit

New Year, Old Traditions While Songkran has become, for many, three days of wet and wild mayhem, the origins of this annual celebration are anchored in ancient beliefs

lthough Thailand recognizes, and heartily celebrates, the same New Year’s Eve observed by almost every nation across the globe on December 31st, the “real” New Year’s celebration in this country occurs in mid-April, during Songkran. Traditionally, Songkran is a three-day annual holiday that begins on April 13th and concludes on April 15th. However, some regions of the Kingdom, such as Chiang Mai, stretch the festivities out a few days longer. And, in a recent announcement, the Thai government gave the go-ahead for an official nationwide five-day Songkran Festival holiday period this year, lasting from Thursday, April 12th to Monday, April 16th. These extra days off will accommodate Thai people travelling up-country to visit their hometowns, and will (hopefully) stimulate nationwide tourism. But regardless of how many days everyone’s getting off work, the prime directive during Songkran nowadays is to have fun and get wet! In Bangkok, the street scene along both Khao San Road and Silom Road is one of pure watery mayhem, as hordes of tourists and locals alike engage in what is probably the biggest water pistol battle in the world. And some revellers aren’t content to just use water pump-action water rifles, arming themselves

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instead with high-pressure hoses than can douse a crowd in seconds flat. But it’s all in good fun, and the party atmosphere is irresistible. Over the past few decades Songkran has taken on legendary status as one of the wettest and wildest parties on the planet, however in 2017 the celebrations were a tad more subdued due to the mourning period that was in effect after the passing of King Rama IX. There have also been, in recent years, well-justified concerns mounting about water wastage, and as a result it’s not known just how over-the-top this year’s festivities will be. For those whose spirits are dampened by the taming of Songkran, it’s worth noting that this annual observance was not always the super-soaked festival it is today.

History of Songkran The regions of the Mekong region—Thailand, Laos, Yunnan, Myanmar, Cambodia, and Vietnam—share an affinity for water that goes beyond their geographic link to one of the world’s mightiest rivers. This relationship to water dates to over 1.000 years ago, when the peoples of this region first began forming city-states centred in river bangkok101.com

making merit | CITY PULSE valleys along the Red River in southern China and northern Vietnam, and as far west as the Salween River in what is today eastern Myanmar’s Shan State. At one time, two migrational flows dominated—a northern terminus focused around the Yuan Jiang and Guangxi provinces, and a southern terminus along Thailand’s Chao Phraya River. Among the many intermediate migrational zones, the Mekong River valley through China, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam formed the largest. Beginning as early as the 8th century AD, but most certainly by the 10th century, migrant peoples had established local meuang (city-states), each based in a river valley and under the rule of sovereigns called chao meuang. Wherever these principalities sprang up, waterways natural and man-made served not only as sources for nutrition, bathing, agriculture and transport, but as important cultural adjuncts. City plans in virtually all of these river valley states originally resembled mandala, the quasi-circular diagrams created by Buddhist artists as an object for meditation. Much like Hindu-Buddhist mythology’s Mount Meru, around which the cosmos unfolds in concentric continents alternating with slender cosmic oceans, river valley states were organized around a web of natural and artificial waterways fanning out from a central river or stream serving as the cities’ axis. The most important festival in this entire region is the celebration of the solar-lunar New Year, when the sun passes from the sign of Pisces into the sign of Aries in the zodiac. Called Samkranta (Sanskrit for “fully passed over”) it was pronounced “Songkran” in Tai-speaking cultures. This festival demands that people take a few days out of their normal work schedules for spiritual cleansing and renewal. Believers hold that during this short period—April 13 through 15 in Thailand—the spirit of the previous year departs and a new one arrives. Hence, on the first day of the festival, people would give their homes a thorough cleaning to welcome the New Year spirit. New clothes should be worn, and in many households there would be a ritual disposal of old clothing and other dispensable household possessions.

Water, representing the principal agent for this cleansing and renewal, plays a central role throughout the festival and, in fact, a common nickname for Songkran nowadays is the “water festival”. Typically, on the 3rd day of celebrations, Buddha images are returned to their monastery homes, where they receive a ritual bathing as local Buddhists take turns pouring water over the images. The faithful will also pour water over the hands of older Buddhist monks, and at home will perform the same ceremony for elders in the family. Although the original meaning of the water festival is kept alive by traditional ceremonies such as these, nowadays it’s also very much a festival of fun. In most of the Mekong region, April is the height of the hot and dry season, and residents revel in being able to douse one another with water to cool off. Among one’s social equals, the ritual ablutions extend to emptying buckets of water over the head and shoulders of others. In modern times—mainly in the bigger cities—the festival has escalated to a full-scale water war involving water guns, hoses, and virtually anything that can deliver water with force.

Apart from a liberal dousing of water, Songkran participants can also expect to have their cheeks smeared with din sor pong, a natural white powder made primarily from limestone clay which, when mixed with water, forms a paste like substance. During the festival many people carry small bowls of the chalky goop, smearing each other’s cheeks and foreheads with the paste and smiling and laughing all the while. The mixture easily washes off the skin, but don’t expect your clothing to survive the onslaught quite as efficiently.

In Buddhist cultures, celebrants would gather at local monasteries to build temporary stupas out of sand, a simple demonstration of their religious faith for the coming year. On the second day important Buddha images would be taken from local monasteries and paraded in the streets, to remind all of the importance of Buddhism. bangkok101.com

APRIL 2018 | 33

SNAPSHOTS | insight

Surat Jongda: Re-mastering Traditional Thai Dramatic Arts 34 | APRIL 2018

bangkok101.com

insight | SNAPSHOTS

Surat Jongda

lways passionate about traditional Thai arts and culture, Surat Jongda, or Khru Kai (Teacher Kai), has a love of learning, creating, and performing that has led his life and career through interesting paths. Although he mainly teaches at the College of Dramatic Arts, Bundipatanasilpa Institute, under the Ministry of Culture, he actively contributes not only via education, but also in production. “Growing up in Khon Kaen’s rural society, I was surrounded and exposed to cultural activities all year round,” he recalls of his youth. “It can be just religious ceremonies or folk festivals at home or in the temple, or full-scale festivals like Songkran, Rocket Festival, and Kathin (new monk robes) Festival. I observed our lifestyles and crafts, such as pottery and basketry, and constantly absorbed all these customs and traditions during those times.” “Everyone came to watch TV in one or two households,” he goes on to say, remembering when electricity and television transmissions reached his village. “We watched TV dramatic series based on folktales or Jataka (Buddha’s past lives) tales, with all these fanciful costumes as well

NOW NEW NEXT Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he meets with creative minds and artistic souls from both Thailand and overseas. From traditional, to contemporary and avant-garde, he finds out about the visions, inspirations, and creations of these talented individuals. bangkok101.com

as some documentaries. These TV programmes expanded my mind and made me interested in the arts and culture. When Bangkok celebrated the Bicentenary, with the royal barge procession and khon (mask dance drama) performances, these events were etched in my memories. “During my high school years I could have chosen to study agriculture to help my family, but a new branch of the College of Dramatic Arts was opened in Kalasin province. I decided to major in khon and studied the role of phra (male human and deities). However, it was much harder than I thought. Traditional dance training requires long hours and hardships for the performers to endure, because we hold and dance in certain positions for long periods. I had to learn both classical and folk music and theatrical arts of lakhon (drama) and kithasilp, or piiphat (traditional Thai musical orchestra). We learned international music and dramatic arts too, such as music theory and choir singing” At that time, Isaan folk music was revamped with new ponglang (wooden xylophone) bands and became in fashion. The Tourism Authority of Thailand used this music to promote tourism. With his diploma, Surat had opportunities to tour and perform with these bands at travel fairs across Thailand. Then Surat relocated to Bangkok to study, learning the more technical sides of the trade—such as making costumes and khon masks, but more importantly, puppets. With Chakrabhand Posayakrit, a national artist, and Valapis Sodprasert, another puppet maker, he got to restore old ones and create new ones. “I've always loved puppets,” he explains. “These large puppets, like Hun Luang (Royal puppets), can dance and have hand gestures. We manipulate them with strings and hone their movements. We perform in many festivals and the audience enjoys the comical scenes and the battles with riders on horses.” While Surat continued to teach at the institute, he furthered his studies at the Faculty of Fine Arts, Chulalongkorn University. Besides making the costumes

and accessories, he learned more about prop making for stage and screen productions with big events like the Asian Games and a well-known Hollywood movie: Anna and the King. “These works make me read, research, and discuss more,” Surat says. “I have to collaborate with other experts, such as Khru Big—Peeramon Chomthawat—who creates beautiful costumes for dancers. Then we assisted in the production of the royal-sponsored khon performances by Queen Sirikit’s Support Foundation. With the same mission, other experts combine their knowledge, skills, and technical expertise to recreate world-class productions of khon performances. We research the designs and ancient styles through old photos and documents, and use intricate textiles together with finer sequins and metal threads for these costumes.” Also known for the stunning Thai costumes in the Sri Ayodhya TV drama series, Surat and his team recreate Ayutthayan-period costumes, accessories, and headdresses for the royalty, courtiers, and dancers, with brocade and printed textiles and materials from India, China, Japan, and Thailand. The dances in the series are also performed in the Ayutthayan choreography. “Even younger generations yearn for the past; we all have nostalgia,” Surat points out, citing the reasons why this TV series has proved to be so popular. “That’s why retro styles continually re-emerge. It’s important to know how we’re going the make the past relevant in the present. “Traditional arts and culture need the patronage system. It requires sponsorship and good marketing communication to motivate the audience. Not only do they want to be entertained, but they also have to understand. With creativity, we can make them appreciate the aesthetics. The arts and culture is not about the price, but about the value. Look at the Royal Crematorium, with the events and performances that took place. One cannot quantify their worth. They are too invaluable because they are our national treasures.” APRIL 2018 | 35

SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand

The Bard of Bizarre Architecture

Architect, painter, author, social critic, and raconteur extraordinaire, Dr. Sumet Jumsai na Ayudhya is a Renaissance man and the designing mastermind of Bangkok’s most captivatingly peculiar buildings By Jim Algie

Sumet Jumsai na Ayudhya

The "Robot Building" on Sathorn Road

nyone who has ever peaked on hallucinogens (or air pollution) in Bangkok has probably thought, when staring at the skyline from on high, “Wow, that

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robot must be about 20 stories tall! What’s up with that Cubist structure? And is that a ship or a hotel? Man, this is some good shit...” But these are not hallucinations—

they are the surreal byproducts of Sumet Jumsai na Ayudhya’s imagination. Born in 1939, and named a National Artist in 1998, the cornerstone of his bizarre architecture is his long-abiding interest in painting, cubism, and surrealistic art. Looking at photos of his artworks and buildings, it’s easy to draw parallels between them: the pigments of imagination, the serpentine lines, and the techno-geometric forms of The Nation buildings in Bangkok which form the blueprints for his artworks. It’s not surprising then, that his first ambition was to be a painter, not an architect. “I started drawing and painting from an early age, but my father didn’t want me to be an artist, which meant being a pauper,” said Sumet, sitting on his terrace with a glass of 16-yearold malt whiskey in one hand, and a pipe stuffed with cherry tobacco in the other. “There was no market for modern art in those days. So I decided to compromise and study architecture because it was the nearest thing to bangkok101.com

bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS art. But as I discovered, architecture— real architecture, is art. It’s a very important form of art, and it’s also a form of poetry in concrete and steel, wood and glass.” Although he’s been painting for most of his life, he didn’t begin exhibiting his works until his first solo show at the Galerie Atelier Visconti in Paris towards the end of 1999. Judging by the reviews and the lengthy guest list of European aristocrats invited to the vernissage, Sumet’s debut exhibition Guernica, Typewriter, Racing Cars, and Einstein was a major artistic event. So why did he wait this long to have his first solo show? “I don’t like the idea of selling my paintings, because they’re part of my flesh and blood, so I don’t want to part with them. But there’s no room to keep them in my house now, and my children think they’re hopelessly conventional and outdated,” he said with a cultured British accent echoing his Cambridge education. Even with a guest list like that, Sumet denied getting a case of the pre-exhibition jitters. “Oh no, I’m too old for that,” he laughed. From a young age, Sumet’s view of architecture and the world was shaped and coloured by painters

Bizarre

Thailand

Author Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the collection of short stories entitled The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (2014), and Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex, and Black Magic. Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com

The Picasso-inspired Nation Buildings

and sculptors. “Picasso was my great hero when I was a student, and the sculptor, painter and architect Le Corbusier. The two of them went hand in hand for me. They were part of my generation in the early ‘60s, with Vivaldi and modern jazz. And I’m still at it because I come from that generation,” he said. Picasso’s Cubist period exerted a tremendous influence on Sumet’s design for the two Nation buildings, situated in the southeasterly extremities of Bangkok, alongside the highway to Pattaya. “On the west side, quite recognizable, is the anthropomorphic: the chief editor sitting at his computer. But as you come around to the east side, the cut out, the shape of the editor becomes more and more abstract, until you come right round the building and he becomes a completely abstract shape permeated by electronic circuitry, which is an image of communications. So that’s Cubism. When you look at a Cubist painting or sculpture you see other sides at the same time. Like when Picasso painted his girlfriend and she’s divided into different sides,” he said with a laugh. It was 9pm and we were sitting in the garden of the home he designed on Sukhumvit Road, listening to Ornette Coleman’s be-bop jazz,

smoking Cuban cigars, and drinking malt whiskey. When he’s sober, Sumet is more of an upper-class Englishman— subdued and composed. When he’s drinking, the Thai side of his character comes out to play and he starts telling a lot more jokes and spinning tales about a spectre he encountered in a Victorian mansion in England. Whether sober or tipsy, he is a namedropper, forever talking about encounters he’s had with everyone from Prince Charles and Nelson Mandela, to the notorious film director Roman Polanski. Sumet loves to be seen with other celebrities, and was right beside Polanski as he emerged to meet the press and the fans after the Asian premiere of his version of Oliver Twist at the Bangkok World Film Festival in 2005. Out of the hundreds of actors, musicians, supermodels and titans of industry I’ve profiled over the last two decades, Sumet is the only one who has ever called me up to personally thank me for writing a story about him. Not only that, he had his secretary send a thank-you present. The perfect gift for any wordsmith, it was a poster for his Paris exhibition featuring one of his paintings: a Burroughsesque image of a typewriter with a human face. Long may the grand old gentleman’s architectural legacy stand.

The new and expanded version of Jim Algie’s latest tome, On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Tales of Rock and Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway, sports a cover blurb from the renowned author Timothy Hallinan: “The funniest sad book and the saddest funny book I’ve read in a long time.” The book is now available for purchase from www.amazon.com as both an e-book and a paperback.

APRIL 2018 | 37

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Letters from Buddhadasa A haven in Chatuchak preserves a famous monk’s literary legacy By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

hailand’s most famous monk, and one of the 20th century’s most influential asceticphilosophers, was born Nguam Panich in Chaiya, Surat Thani in 1906. He was ordained as a Buddhist monk at age 20, taking the name Phra Indapanno. He spent many years studying Pali Buddhist scriptures before retreating to the forest for six years of solitary meditation. Returning to ecclesiastical society, he was offered a high rank, but instead founded his own forest monastery, Wat Suanmokkhabalaram, in 1932 as an alternative to orthodox Thai monasteries. Here he developed an ecumenical philosophy that comprised Zen, Taoist, and Christian elements, as well as the traditional Theravada schemata. He also changed his name

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to Buddhadasa Bhikkhu (in Pali language Buddhadasa translates as “Servant of the Buddha”). During Thailand’s turbulent 1970s, many Thai nationalists branded the monk a communist because of his sharp critiques of capitalism, which he saw as a catalyst for greed. Meanwhile religious scholar Donald K. Swearer compared Buddhadasa to the early Indian philosopher Nagarjuna for his reformist efforts. The great monk passed away in July 1993 after a long illness, but his legacy lives on in the 120-hectare monastery and adjacent international meditation centre he founded in Chaiya. In 2010 a private foundation opened the Buddhasa Indapanno Archives, an ambitious facility in Bangkok’s Vachirabenjatas Park—

more commonly called Railway Park (Suan Rot Fai in Thai) near the popular Chatuchak Weekend Market—to archive the monk’s prestigious literary legacy. The centre is sometimes referred to as “Suanmok Bangkok”. In keeping with Buddhadasa’s penchant for Zen teachings, the archives feature clean and simple lines, alternating unpolished and polished concrete in grey and black. An artificial lake along one side of the building adds a cooling effect. When viewed from the building itself, one almost has the feeling that the structure “floats” on the pond. Breezes from the water are drawn into open-side pavilions and verandas attached to the archives. The only exterior decorative features consist of large terracotta bangkok101.com

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS plaques which are facsimiles of didactic 2,000-year-old bas-reliefs found at the grand Buddhist stupas of Sanchi, Bharhut, and Amaravati in India. On the day we visited, a traditional Thai music ensemble performed outdoors in an amphitheatre in one of the pavilions. The curved wall along the back of the amphitheatre is also decorated with terracotta bas-relief plaques, along with an oversized copy of the famous Srivijaya Buddha figure from Chaiya, the original bronze sculpture of which can be seen at Bangkok’s National Museum. Volunteers dressed in white stroll the grounds daily, available to answer questions and explain Buddhadasa’s natural approach to dhamma. Printed publications are available in the ground-floor Dhamma Books & Media. In addition to many titles by Ajahn Buddhadasa, the shop carries books by Ajahn Cha, Ajahn Pasanno, Thich Nhat Hanh, Ajahn Jayasaro, and Phra W Vajiramedhi. Most are in Thai language only, but there is a smattering of titles published in English, Spanish, French, and German. On the 2nd floor are two meditation rooms with large windows that provide stunning views over the park. A veranda outside the meditation rooms is decorated with a collection of photographs and

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

enlarged reproductions of verses composed and hand-written by Ajahn Buddhadasa. Other Buddhist art is also exhibited on the walls of this floor, including temporary exhibits. The 3rd floor is occupied by meeting rooms, reading rooms and the main archives, where a comprehensive collection of Buddhadasa’s original writings—including letters, poetry and journals—are archived. In total, it is estimated that the archives include 20,000 items classified as text, along with 50,000 drawings, and 1,900 voice recordings. Also on this floor is a connected series of rooms containing large interactive exhibits. A pebbled walkway leads to the main room, which is dimly lit so that video projections— such one showing drops of water going in and out of a pond—may be more comfortably viewed. The floor is strewn with meditation cushions, and visitors are invited to sit down and quiet the

mind while contemplating concepts of nibbana. A veranda accessed by automatic glass doors overlooks the lake, and is a good place for walking meditation. Sayings and poetry referencing nibbana decorate the walls. Bulletin boards on the ground floor post upcoming activities and events. One of the most prominent regular events is the Sunday morning Dhamma in the Park series, consisting of dhamma talks by visiting monks, discussion sessions organized by the Buddhadasa Book Club, along with meditation, Tai Chi, and yoga workshops.

Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives (BIA) Kamphaeng Phet 1 Rd. Railway Park, Chatuchak Tel: 02 936 2800 www.bia.or.th

APRIL 2018 | 39

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Monk Baskets

Shopping for offerings in the sacred aisle of the supermarket

fter chanting at a ceremony, each monk gets a basket of goods. This donation may be offered on a pedestal tray, but more often comes in a bucket. Coloured saffron like their robes, this bucket has become a symbol of practical faith. It contains basic monk needs, which are prescribed by his vows: things like a robe, soap, incense, candles, matches and flip-flops. It’s one way to tham boon (make merit). Tham boon is meant to be humble supplication, and a bucket is considered more appropriate, as well as more practical. If donated before the monk’s last mealtime at noon, this khreuang sangha than package may contain food; if not it’s called a khreuang tai ya than. The monastic retreat is a simple, model life. Everything else is surplus, the stuff of craving. Monks stop craving on behalf of everyone else, so it’s incumbent on lay people to support their noble path. Thais often make merit by donating money, releasing captive animals, or giving food on the monks’ morning alms round, but also in rites at festivals, weddings, business blessings, or overnight bus pilgrimages to sacred sites. Thais never unwrap gifts in front of the giver. On opening the orange cellophane back at the wat, the monk must accept the gift inside with full equanimity, as with the mixture of food scooped into his alms bowl. Luxuries, adornments, and intoxicants are taboo. At funerals, instead of wreaths (a Western import), some offer blankets folded into animals, or towels shaped as gibbons, for re-use by the monks. “To me, giving without taking something back is real happiness,” said Sunee Tuampuemphol at a Pithee Kong Khao spirit appeasing ceremony in Sri Racha. “This tradition helps me understand the genuine concept of merit making.” But sometimes the giver’s intent doesn’t extinguish ego. With karma in mind, Thais seek to get back in kind what they offer. Give candles, become enlightened. Give medicine, gain health. Give food, never starve. Give flowers, gain beauty. Give money, gain wealth. To donate a Buddha image brings future wisdom, while financing a

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 40 | APRIL 2018

viharn chapel gains sanctuary from harm. This explains the surplus of underused temple buildings. Monastic lifestyle increasingly reflects secular tastes. In theory, monks shouldn’t handle gold, silver, or money, but vows don’t ban them from using mobile phones or Mercedes. Still the practice enhances public dismay at repeated monastic scandals. In 2003, the National Buddhism Office stressed existing bans on monks drinking alcohol and having dinner, as well as trends for walking on beaches, cheering at boxing matches, publicly using a mobile phone, or browsing department stores. Then there’s the awkward question of surplus donations. Do the math: one bucket per monk, several blessings a week, multiple monks per event (at birthdays they number the celebrant’s age plus one, to ensure longevity). That’s an awful lot of buckets. And soap. And incense. Monks do keep very clean, but they limit their robes to two and just how much toothpaste can a mouth take? Where does the bucket surplus go? Donated goods not immediately required go into temple storage, or may go to charity, a poorer wat, or the local needy. Alternatively, they may be given to a nearby shopkeeper, who in return makes monetary merit to the temple fund. This is an ad hoc market with no fixed system or dealers, and as for where the fund surplus goes, some wonder. Scandals do get reported. “We do get more candles than we could possibly use,” says Kantasilo Bhikku of Wat Boworniwet in Bangkok, who supports the donation of fluorescent bulbs instead. “The symbolism is to give light for study, so it’s the same meaning.” Supporting monks to live without possessions or ego ironically has become a commodified act. As society got more secular and materialist, so khreuang sangha than have flourished as a tangible token of faith. The offering itself now became a consumer product. Offerings may now be ‘in trend’, but busy people may forget the sangha than prayer. Conveniently, monk buckets typically contain the text—printed on the checkout label alongside the price and bar code. Materialism has turned making merit into the alms trade.

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

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SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Waterfront Walk A history-filled stroll in and around Asiatique Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

nyone who resides in Bangkok probably knows about Asiatique the Riverfront, one of the most successful entertainment, dining, and shopping districts in the city. However, the shopping complex and its surrounding area is also one of the most historic places along the Chao Phraya River, as it used to be— for centuries, in fact—the main trading port of the Siamese capital. They are two ways to go to Asiatique: using the free shuttle boat departing from the Saphan Thaksin bridge, or by bus, car, motorcycle, or foot along Charoen Krung Road. Although the boat is a fast, convenient, and comfortable way to reach the area quickly, walking along the road—a mere 20 to 30 minutes from the Saphan Taksin BTS station— will give you more of an insight into the area, and allow you to discover many interesting attractions. The part of Charoen Krung Road beside Saphan Thaksin bridge used to be in the vicinity of Bangkok’s first

42 | APRIL 2018

international port, and so most of these activities were consequently linked to trading. There are still docks and warehouses along the road here— interrupted only by the silhouette of temples—as well as rows of Chinese shophouses that were hives of activity a hundred years ago. Among the bestpreserved row of houses is the one at the corner of Chan Road and Charoen Krung. These properties retain the typical architectural characteristics of the houses of that time, with Italian design influences visible in the pediments over the windows, and some sculptures over the main door. Some have recently been repainted in bright colours, as they have been turned into trendy eateries or bars. A few metres away from Saphan Thaksin BTS station stands Wat Yannawa, one of the oldest temples along the river—constructed during the reign of Rama III. Inside the temple compound there is a vessel-like structure which is actually a pagoda that was ordered built by the King to

recall the memory of Chinese junks trading with Siam and bringing Chinese workers to Thailand 160 years ago. Behind the junk-style ubosot is a more traditional temple with beautiful carved doors decorated with ornate paintings. Another notable temple is Wat Ratchasingkorn. The traditional Chao Praya Express commuter boat can take you to this pier, just north of Asiatique, providing an opportunity to explore the area, but with less walking. Have a look at the carved windows of the temple, as well as the pediment decorating the roof with multi-coloured ceramics in the typical Rama IV style. After the temple, pay a visit to the Protestant Cemetery. Located on Charoen Krung Soi 72, this is the oldest European cemetery in Bangkok and a true open-air history book. The land was donated in 1853 by King Rama IV to foreign residents who asked to be granted a location for their deceased loved ones to rest eternally. This serene spot is worth visiting today, and there bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS are some 1,800 graves. Most are very simple, in the form of obelisks, or bearing only the shape of a cross—in the pure protestant tradition of modesty. A few are, however, adorned with columns, statues of angels, and cherubins. The most spectacular is the mausoleum built in neo-gothic style for Henry Alabaster, British Consular Official and also a private adviser to King Rama V. The mausoleum was executed following orders of King Rama V with this inscription: “In recognition of faithful service”. Another important grave is that of Admiral John Bush, the King’s harbour master, styled in the shape of an obelisk. Walking between graves, other names linked to the architecture and history of Bangkok and Siam appear: John Clunis, the architect of the iconic Chakri Maha Prasat Hall inside the Grand Palace, and Carl Sandrezcki, the architect who built the Borom Phiman Mansion also located inside the Grand Palace. The first Presbyterian priests are also buried here, and are neighbours to Danish, Dutch, German, and/or British naval officers, traders, Chinese Christians, Jewish personalities, and consular representatives. It

Historic

Bangkok

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

demonstrates how Bangkok has been a cosmopolitan city as far back as the middle of the 19th century. Today, the cemetery is still taken care of by the British Consulate. Finally, we come to Asiatique the Riverfront. Although often packed with tourists, it still retains a bit of old world charm and can give visitors some idea of the pioneer spirit of traders a hundred years ago. Panels provide explanations about historical buildings to discover, and tell how the port used to belong to Denmark’s East Asiatic Company (hence the name it bears today). Nowadays, shoppers stroll along a boardwalk that was once lined with warehouses and some beautiful European style mansions—which accommodated the headquarters of foreign trading companies. One of these mansions still stands, although it is empty. Built in 1912, the delicate

structure is waiting for a restoration, although some believe that the lack of restoration is due to the fact that the house might be haunted. At least it offers a sharp contrast to the brightlylit, thoroughly modern Mekhong Ferris Wheel. At one time this port was home to the largest warehouse in Siam, where teak lumbers were stored, awaiting to be put on ships sailing to Europe by what was then the first modern crane in the Kingdom. Many of the original warehouses have been preserved, and are now filled with restaurants and shops, while others have been added in similar vintage style, giving a certain unity to the area. INFORMATION: Asiatique is open everyday from 4pm to midnight. The Protestant Cemetery is next to Pier S3 at Wat Ratchasingkorn, and is open everyday until 6pm. APRIL 2018 | 43

Boaters and bathers enjoying Pattaya Bay

PATTAYA 101 D

uring the 18th, 19th, and early 20th centuries PATTAYA was just a small fishing village with a few palm covered beaches that attracted no-one (apart from fisherman). All that changed however in 1948 when a savvy speculator named PARINYA CHAWALITTHAMRONG began purchasing large sections of land with the intention of developing this sleepy village into a tourism mecca. By the late 1950s more and more visitors from Bangkok were making the trek to Pattaya—which back then could take more than 8 hours because of the rough roads. But these brave visitors loved the crystal clear waters, not to mention diving opportunities, and the crowds steadily grew. Restaurants and bars sprang up to service the growing tourist market, but in 1959 a handful of US Military transport trucks laden with GIs arrived from their base in Nakhon Ratchasima and a new breed of tourist was born. The marines, on R&R leave, rented houses at the southern end of Pattaya beach and stayed for around a week. The friendly locals made quite an impact on the soldiers, and as more GIs heard about Pattaya, more kept coming. The 1960s saw the opening of such infamous restaurants and bars as Charlie’s Hideaway, The Nipa Hut, The Coral Reef, The Outrigger, and the Seagull. The first major hotel, THE NIPA LODGE, opened in 1965—just around the time that America became involved in the Vietnam War. By 1967 the first US Air Force flight operations over Vietnam began taking off from the Royal Thai Navy Base at U-Tapao, and as America’s involvement in the war grew, so did the number of GIs visiting Pattaya (approximately 6,000 troops each month by December 1967). The troops were cash rich and desperate to spend their dollars in the local bars so, naturally, more bars opened… and with it came more girls. Unfortunately, the reputation Pattaya gained as a result of this still colours many people’s impression of the city, despite the municipality’s efforts to whitewash this somewhat seedy aspect. Despite its red-light reputation—or perhaps because of it—Pattaya had at last become a tourist destination of choice, and the early 1970’s saw visitors from Europe start to join the large numbers still coming from the USA. As the number of visitors swelled, more hotels started to appear and the skyline of central Pattaya now included the SIAM BAYHORSE, the ROYAL CLIFF, the Orchid Lodge (now the AMARI OCEAN PATTAYA), and the Merlin (now the HARD ROCK HOTEL PATTAYA). Today the city centre, and its outlying regions such as Jomtien and Sattahip, are home to luxury residential developments and 5-star resorts such as the CENTARA GRAND MIRAGE BEACH RESORT, the HILTON PATTAYA, the MOVENPICK SIAM HOTEL NA JOMTIEN, and the DUSIT THANI PATTAYA. Recent years have also seen a growing number of charming boutique properties emerge on the scene, including the HOTEL BARAQUDA, the MERA MARE, the X2 VIBE PATTAYA SEAPHERE RESIDENCE, and the newly opened COSTA WELL RESORT PATTAYA. Couple that with a growing number of fine dining eateries, a world-class yachting scene, and easy access from Bangkok (including a new weekend train service), and it’s no surprise that Pattaya’s tourism numbers are now happily in the tens of millions.

TRAVEL | see & do pattaya

What to See, What to Do Amazing attractions, and one-of-a-kind distractions

KOH LAN For an easy-access, picture postcard tropical beach that you can actually swim in, you’ll have to leave Pattaya Bay and head to Koh Lan—a small island off the coast of Pattaya, famed for its clear waters, sunset views, and mischievous monkeys that inhabit the hills around coral-ringed Nual Beach, in the south. To get to Koh Lan take the 45-minute public ferry from Bali Hai Pier, which costs B30 each way, or hire a local speedboat (normal charge is B300 per person, each way) and you’ll be there in 15 minutes. THAI THANI ARTS & CULTURE VILLAGE Explore the Thailand of a bygone era at the Thai Thani Arts & Culture Village, located south of Pattaya City (near the Nong Nooch Botanical Gardens). Discover Thai heritage via traditional arts and crafts, Thai-style activities, and unique cultural performances. Classic Thai architecture is also faithfully replicated here in the form of the multi-gabled pagoda and the alms bowl pavilion. Enjoy a leisurely ride around the village in a horse drawn carriage, and when hunger strikes visit Khum Khan Tok Restaurant for delicacies from the northern and northeastern regions of Thailand, or check out the array of rare foods from all regions of the Kingdom at the Kad Moua Market www.thaithanipattaya.com

46 | APRIL 2018

FLIGHT OF THE GIBBON Back in 2007, the Flight of the Gibbon zipline company started operations in Chiang Mai. Now they have a second zipline centre, located in Chonburi—amidst majestic old-growth forests on the borders of the Chompoo Wildlife Sanctuary and inside Khao Kheow Open Safari Park. This fully immersive and totally unique 2.5 hour rainforest experience includes a combination of ziplines, abseiling, sky bridges, and forest walks, with some stations suspended quite high above the valley floor. The full package also includes: a delicious lunch, plus seasonal fruit and refreshments; a Safari park tram tour; and complementary transport there and back (within a specified zone). www.treetopasia.com FLOATING MARKET Covering an area of 100,000 sq.m, the Pattaya Floating Market is recognized as the largest man-made floating market in the world. First opened to the public in 2008, it has grown in popularity to become a major tourist attraction—with shopping at over 100 outlets, plus cultural activities and traditional shows. Conceived and built by local businessman Warida Sae-eung, the market consists of four main areas, which each represent the architecture, cusine, and culture from the Kingdom’s four reions: North, Northeast, Central and Southern Thailand. Oddly, for what is essentially a shopping mall, there is an entry fee of B200. The market is located a short drive south of Pattaya City, and is open from 8am till 8pm daily. bangkok101.com

see & do pattaya | TRAVEL

Folklore Fantasy

The live-action stage show Kaan, at Pattaya’s D-Luck Cinematic Theatre, gives literary legends a high-tech jumpstart

nless you happen to be well versed in Thai legends and folklore you won’t recognize the various tales that are brought to life by Kaan, a live-action theatrical production inspired by classic Thai literature. However, that’s not to say this 75-minute high-tech stage show isn’t worth watching. In fact, in terms of pure performance it’s an absolutely thrilling spectacle, and working out who’s the hero and who’s the bad guy is pretty straightforward throughout. It’s also a show without any real dialogue—as the performers rely on broad gestures, pantomime, and plenty of yelling to get their messages across—so language is no barrier to understanding either. The story begins in a library, where a young man named Kaan— who doesn’t have much interest in reading—is handed a book with his name on it and is instructed by the librarian to read it. When he opens the book he is magically warped into the narrative, along with his sidekick Gabilpuksa, a cute and comical flying monkey character. In their quest to find all the broken pieces of a magical key, which will allow Kaan to return to the mortal world, the pair embark on a fantastical adventure where the heroes and villains of ancient Thai literature come to life. What follows is an eye-popping series of choreographed battles, chase scenes, and acrobatic sequences that are enhanced by state-of-theart projection mapping—which creates some incredibly realistic backgrounds, foregrounds, and a few fierce sea monsters that tower over the characters on stage. But the three-dimensional visuals are just as awe-inspiring, and include giant animatronic robots, life-size moving pirate ships, electrifying Tesla coils, real-life dancing elephants, aerial silk acrobats, and oversized creatures that bangkok101.com

descend from above and swoop out over the audience. In all there are six Thai folktales featured in Kaan: Phra Aphai Mani (The Wrath of the Sea Giantess); Phra Suthorn-Manorah (The Colors of Himmavanta); ManimekhalaRamasura (The Chase of Lightning); Sangthong (The Wager for the Ivory Kingdom); Kraithong (The Underwater Abyss); and Ramakien (The Cataclysm). The talented cast consists of 90 performers, but another 200 skilled stage personnel are required to bring this entertaining epic to life every evening. The show itself reportedly took three years to put together, including the construction of the 1,000 sq.m Singha D’Luck Cinematic Theatre—a 1,400 seat venue, located on Thepprasit Road in Pattaya, which was specially designed to house

this elaborate, one-of-a-kind stage extravaganza. Visionary Producer and Artistic Director Yongyoot Thongkongtoon said that his idea was to create something that would proudly showcase Thai culture and national heritage, while at the same time appealing to both national and international audiences. And while I can’t say that my knowledge of classic Thai literature has made any dramatic increase after seeing the show, I can say that I was thoroughly impressed by the incredibly imaginative visuals and the perfectly executed performances. Kaan is performed every day except Monday, with shows at 5pm, and 8:30pm. Ticket prices start at B2,500 (B2,000 for children). by Bruce Scott www.kaanshow.com A PRIL 2018 | 47

TRAVEL | see & do pattaya

Ladyboy Cabaret Shows The curves may be fake, but the entertainment value is real

adyboys in Pattaya have adopted the role of the Vegas showgirl, adding a combination of glitz, glamour, and gaiety to the city. In fact it’s hard to imagine Pattaya without its legions of ladyboys. They’ve quite simply become part of the fabric of the city and like technicolour butterflies they display themselves most extravagantly at the grand ladyboy cabaret shows, of which there are several in the general downtown core. And if you’ve never been to one you might just be surprised at how entertaining these highly theatrical spectacles can be.

TIFFANY’S SHOW: Now in it’s 40th year, the world famous Tiffany’s Show Pattaya is the grand dame of the city’s ladyboy cabaret parade. What began as a one-man show performed for friends one New Year’s Eve back in 1974, has grown into a household word in Thailand and beyond, thanks in part to the exceedingly popular annual Miss Tiffany beauty pageants. The nightly cabaret show presents a variety of musical numbers, all featuring eye-popping costumes and choreography. And for added fun, the “gals” recently opened the Tiffany Shooting Range, an indoor gun club with four different firearms to choose from. The theatre and the shooting range are both located at 464 Moo 9, Pattaya 2nd Rd. www.tiffany-show.co.th

48 | APRIL 2018

ALCAZAR CABARET: The Alcazar Cabaret began back in 1981, with about 100 performers and seating for 350 persons. However the show has grown considerably since then, and is now house in a 1,200 seat theater with state-of-the-art light and sound systems. There are four shows daily—5pm, 6:30pm, 8pm, and 9:30pm—and the 70-minute, 17 song performance covers everything from red-hot jazz numbers to Oriental fan dances, Russian numbers, and modern Korean pop. The theatre is located at 78/14 Pattaya 2nd Rd. www.alcazarthailand.com COLOSSEUM SHOW: One of the newest contenders to the city’s ladyboy throne is the Colosseum Show Pattaya, which opened in 2013. The building itself is hard to miss, as it’s designed to look like the famed ancient colosseum in Rome. Inside there is room for 1,000 spectators, and the seats are arranged in a semicircular arc in front of an expensive

stage. The 75-minute performance, presented in 16 segments, combines professional choreography and fabulous costumes, making full use of the theatre’s futuristic light and sound system and hydraulic stage. The colosseum is located at Thepprasit Rd (between Sois 13 and 15) in South Pattaya. www.colosseumshowpattaya.com

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see & do pattaya | TRAVEL

Plan Your Trip Upcoming festivals and special events

APRIL 27-MAY 1 TOP OF THE GULF REGATTA This year marks the 14th edition of the annual Top of the Gulf Regatta, headquartered once again at the Ocean Marina Yacht Club. Participating keelboats and multihulls are provided free berthing in the marina for the duration of the regatta, giving all sailors and boat owners a chance to enjoy four days of exciting and competitive racing, and the onshore camaraderie and social events each evening. In addition, the ASAF Youth Sailing Cup at the Royal Varuna Yacht Club follows immediately after the regatta—taking place from the 3rd to the 6th of May—making these two weeks a great time for boating enthusiasts in Pattaya. www.topofthegulfregatta.com

MAY 19

DECEMBER 13-16 WONDERFRUIT FESTIVAL Although it might seem like December is a long way off, it’s not too early to start planning a blissed-out, enhanced and extended weekend spent at this year’s Wonderfruit Festival, taking place, as always, at The Fields at Siam Country Club. This year will mark the 4th edition of this four-day celebration of music, food, and the arts, and since almost every year this eclectic event has been completely sold-out, getting tickets early is a good idea. Unfortunately, it’s too early to reveal the roster of musicians set to entertain, but last year’s line-up was phenomenal so expect the same this time round. And if transportation is a problem, remember that there is a shuttle bus service from Bangkok directly to the Wonderfruit site. www.wonderfruitfestival.com

SPARTAN RACE THAILAND Known as the world’s best obstacle course competition, with over 240 races in 25 countries around the world this year alone, the 2nd staging of the Thailand edition of the Spartan Race once again takes over the Siam Country Club in Chonburi. For the uninitiated, this is not your everyday race—as participants are expected to run, climb, push, pull, throw, and crawl through walls, hills, trees, mud, barbed wire, and other challenging but fun obstacles. For the brave souls willing to enlist, each Spartan Race is designed to pull you from your comfort zone and challenge you—whether in a 5k sprint or a 13k Super Run. There’s also a Kid’s Race for children aged 4 to 13. For race times, and registration rates and info, visit the website. www.spartanrace.co.th bangkok101.com

APRIL 2018 | 49

TRAVEL | focus on pattaya

Paradise Found?

A gentleman’s journey—from the rat race of Bangkok to the placid shores of Pattaya

The iconic Pattaya City sign

By Harlan Wolff

t happened on a Sunday: I was walking around a shopping mall in Bangkok with my son, wondering both why I had taken him there, and when had my imagination deserted me. It struck me at that moment that I could have been anywhere in the world, as every mall looks the same no matter where you are. I remembered that the Thailand I loved was the smell of garlic and chilli frying in woks, drifting towards me on hot and humid air, or palm trees and wide natural smiles accompanied by the screeching noise of chaos—not this shopaholic’s paradise (or purgatory). It was then that I decided to do what we old Bangkok hands say we will never do… I decided to move to Pattaya. So I contacted the house agents, loaded up the lorries with all my worldly goods, put the wife and kids in the Chevy, and set forth on a new adventure. Pattaya’s not a fishing village anymore, it’s a bona fide city now. I remember when it became one because I watched them put the sign up saying “Welcome To Pattaya City”. When I first started coming to Pattaya in the 1970s it was already more than a fishing village, but many buildings short of the city it is now. It was just after the Vietnam War, and Pattaya was suffering from the endemic schizophrenia that came with that tragedy. The American residents, as well as the spivs, gamblers, scammers, and grunts that didn’t want to make the journey home, were typically either longhaired hippies in flowery shirts, or gung-ho military types with short-back-and-sides. They may have got drunk in the same bars but they certainly didn’t mix. There was a clearly defined demarcation line 50 | APRIL 2018

between those that had been pro-war and those that had been rabidly against it. Coming from the UK I found that we Europeans were not taken very seriously in all this—we were outsiders, and tourists to their war. The European celebrities back then were eccentric. There was Dolf Riks, who owned a restaurant of the same name on the beach road just in front of Walking Street. He exclusively painted monks in saffron robes, and his restaurant’s walls were filled with canvases of different shapes and sizes, all with saffron oil paint as the unifying theme. The food there was excellent, and many a day I slipped away from the crowd of drinkers to have a solitary lunch and a moment to myself. Then there was Alois Fassbind, the manager of the Royal Cliff hotel, famous for his wild gay parties and his very eccentric personality. He ran the best hotel in town and that made him huge in the expatriate community. There was also a retired American colonel that tried to teach me how to ride a big motorcycle outside his bar (my first attempt) while we were both drunk. Then there was a deaf Air America pilot whose house I used to stay in, and what came out during the drinking bouts in his garden left me with no doubt that all the crazy things we have ever heard about the Vietnam war were true. Of course, there were plenty of other colourful characters too, but you get the picture. Pretty girls and palm trees is mainly how I remember those days, all washed down with beer and whisky of course. I was a teenager and that’s about all you need when you’re that age. How I survived the madness, drunkenness, bangkok101.com

focus on pattaya | TRAVEL

The tree-lined Beach Road boardwalk jealous women, and car wrecks is an amazement to me today and, to be honest, not many did survive it all. But I will save those stories for my autobiography that I will begin work on the first day of my retirement, whenever that is. At any rate, it was all a long time ago and now I have other needs: being near to schools so my children don’t sit in traffic jams, clean air to breathe, the sound of birds with my morning coffee, and of course the cost—as it’s a lot cheaper living in Pattaya than Bangkok. It’s been less than a year since I moved, but so far I like living here, and it’s less than two hours to Bangkok so I still get to go back occasionally. Much in Pattaya has changed over the decades but much has remained the same. The Americans are mostly gone, but mass tourism has arrived. It all looks like a city now, albeit a rather disorganized one. Back in the day we used to drive to Bang Saray in the evening for the seafood restaurants, and when I did that recently I discovered my favourite restaurant was still there—and hadn’t changed a bit! It’s a seafood restaurant on a pier so you are literally “dining out at sea”. It’s called Ruan Talay and it’s in the old section of Bang Saray town. The rest of Bang Saray has grown a bit and the signs are in Chinese and Russian now, but it’s still charming and remains what it was then—Pattaya’s shy and innocent cousin. And the jewel at its centre is still Ruan Talay. They used to breed imported dogs in rooms off the middle of the pier back in the 1980s, Saint Bernards included (I do not exaggerate!). Today the kennels still exist but they house mongrels now. The huge furry Saint Bernards are gone, and that’s a good thing, life in the Swiss mountains being far more pleasant for them than a pier in the Gulf of Thailand. But such madness was once the norm in this city. I also went to Walking Street recently, for old time’s sake, wondering if I would meet Jerry’s ghost. “Jerry”, whose real name was Gerald Norman Bryant II, was one of the street’s infamous personalities. Born in the USA, on the 4th of July no less, he was the man behind Dang’s Hot bangkok101.com

Looking out over Pattaya Bay

The grand Royal Cliff hotel Dog Stand. And although his legendary hot dog stand is no more, the big tree it stood parked in front of still remains. Jerry had been shot several times in the stomach in front of his hot dog stand, and incredibly survived being thrown in the back of a pickup truck and driven with great speed on roads full of potholes all the way to the hospital in Chonburi. The first time I met him he was still a young man, and when he walked into Tippy’s Bar on Soi Post office they made him lift his T-shirt and show me the scars. “He survived that,” they told me proudly. Everybody liked Jerry. Well, everybody except the mad policeman that shot him that is. Jerry became a good friend and I saw him most weekends for a while. He expanded his business to the building on the water behind the big tree and the hot dog stand. It was called the The Saloon Bar, and inside—at the back, over the ocean—was an open section where Jerry set up the mechanical bucking bull he had imported. I was thrown every night, more than once, and would hit the cushioned floor hard. Such things didn’t bother us back then, as nobody was supposed to live past 30 anyway. When the mechanical bull went out of fashion Jerry traded it in for a big screen TV and a video machine. He also served the best American style pizza in all of Thailand. Many an afternoon he would unlock this little sanctuary APRIL 2018 | 51

Aerial photo courtesy of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)

TRAVEL | focus on pattaya

Overview of Pattaya City, with Pattaya Bay to the left and Jomtien Beach on the far right 52 | A PRIL 2018

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focus on pattaya | TRAVEL and it would be my own private cinema complete with pretty girls to bring me beer and pizza. Doesn’t sound like much today, but back in the early 1980s such lifestyles were reserved for the rich and famous but I got it for free. Well, almost free… I did pay for the beer and pizza, or signed the bill when I was broke and paid Jerry later. Walking Street today is certainly still entertaining. Too organized and commercial for my tastes though, and it’s lost its sense of community. But it’s worth a visit even if you don’t speak Russian or Chinese. When I was a teenager I knew almost everybody there (those were the days!). I knew lots of pretty girls back then too, and I suspect I met their granddaughters last time I was there—it has been 40 years after all. The girls today are bigger than their parents were—a fast food diet has made sure of that—and they appear to suffer from the stress of modern life and debt. They seem a lot less happy than their elders, and that’s not good. And the music is different (and much, much louder). It’s not for me anymore. Another change is that they are cleaning up the beaches and cleaning up crime, although not necessarily in that order. Rumours abound regarding Pattaya’s bright shining future, and we hear rumblings that over a trillion baht investment is coming. There’s also a fast train to Bangkok in the works, even a casino perhaps, and the possibility that foreigners will finally be allowed to own land. It will be an ASEAN hub, we are told, and a new Pattaya for the new millennium. I like a bit of optimism with my morning coffee so, I’m in. Yes, let’s do it! I could happily spend my oncoming old age writing books during the day and going to a casino’s poker room at night. As you can guess, I am still something of a rogue, but ready for Pattaya to be the global city it has long shown promise of becoming. Pattaya is certainly a golfer’s paradise, as well, and there are more golf courses than you could shake a nine-iron at. I hung up my golf shoes about 16 years ago however, when I made the mistake of buying a set of clubs for my then 2nd wife. She was Italian, and turned every round of golf into a drama equal to a La Scala bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | focus on pattaya

The neon-lit sleaze of modern day Walking Street

Golf courses galore

“Friends with boats” at the Ocean Marina Yacht Club

production of Tosca. My own golf clubs are now covered in dust at the back of the garage somewhere. But there’s plenty for the children to do too, and that means I don’t find myself in a shopping mall with them every Sunday. There are some nice beaches at the naval bases, but apart from Sai Kaew Beach they are off limits to foreigners. Last time I was stopped and told “no foreigners allowed”. I then suggested they put a sign up saying “No Dogs or Foreigners”. “Oh no,” the navy guard told me, “Dogs are allowed.” Fortunately, Sai Kaew Beach is a very nice place, and they still allow me entrance so it will have to do. As to why foreigners are banned elsewhere—your guess is as good as mine. I have bought a fishing rod and have found that fishing is a nice thing to do with my kids. We haven’t caught anything yet, but we live in hope. I also have an idea to buy a Royal Enfield motorcycle with a sidecar and go exploring with my children. So far sanity has prevailed,

but with us writers it’s only a matter of time before eccentricity wins the argument. I could strap the fishing rod to the sidecar or put my golf clubs in it. It seems like I am doing an excellent job of talking myself into this. Perhaps I should grow a beard as well. Back in the day a very close friend from Bangkok had a teak workboat that he leased out to the oil service companies in Sattahip. It was called The Harpoon, and on weekends we would bring it from Sattahip to Pattaya for our pleasure. One night we stumbled out of the Marine Bar at 3am and decided to go to Koh Lan, the now popular tourist island off the coast. Beers in hand, we pointed the vessel at the island and then all fell asleep. Luckily my friend had been a naval man, and somewhere in his drunken slumber alarm bells were going off. He woke up just before we hit the beach and saved the day, or saved the morning at least. We were a little bit more careful after that—but not much.

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focus on pattaya | TRAVEL

The crystal clear waters of Koh Lan

Wong Anat Beach, in North Pattaya

Sai Kaew Beach, in Sattahip

I recently made a new friend with a boat, and he took us to the islands—albeit in a more sober, and safer, fashion. Having a friend with a boat is something I highly recommend, and messing around on the water is very good for the soul. You can lunch at one of the nearby islands, and then head back to harbour for a pizza and a few beers at sunset. Now, I shouldn’t tell you this because the place is very special, and people that know it wouldn’t want tour buses pulling up outside, but there is a very wonderful bar and restaurant—a throwback to the 70s— made of wood and jetsam and sitting on a quiet beach not far from Pattaya City. I will probably not be popular for this, but here goes: it’s called Drifters Café (5/30-31 Na Jomtien Soi 8, Moo 1). Don’t tell them I sent you though, as I’m sure to get in enough trouble with the regulars for spilling such treasured beans. Overall the restaurant scene in Pattaya is relaxed. You don’t need to wear a jacket, nor trousers for that matter,

and the cost is about half of what you’d pay in BKK. Of course, the tourist type seafood restaurants are expensive, but everything else isn’t. Pattaya is a great place to dine out, and you can have endless fun exploring the various cuisines on offer. There are also all kinds of hotels to choose from in Pattaya, much more than in the past, and the prices are generally very reasonable. The roads are also much better now, and that reminds me of another story. Back in the late 1970s the Vietnam veterans in Patpong used to hire a bus to Pattaya once a year. All monies that were collected in the charity boxes in the bars of Patpong during the year were taken to Pattaya and handed over to the orphanage with great ceremony. I was once invited to join this annual excursion by my friend Jim, who was one of the organizers, but we decided—last minute—to let the bus go on without us and continue our Bangkok bar hopping around Patpong.

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Photo by Mark Blackard

TRAVEL | focus on pattaya

Drifter’s Café At about two in the morning we decided it was finally time to leave, and with great difficulty we convinced a taxi to take us to the Montien Hotel in Pattaya in the middle of the night. This was no mean feat, as in those days the taxis were not air-conditioned and were held together by bungee cords—and let’s not even mention the brakes, or lack of them! Back then the old two-lane road from Bangkok to Pattaya ran between rice fields and had very little lighting. All around us raced ten-wheel transport trucks, some going much faster than us even though our driver had his foot all the way to the floor. Jim had fallen asleep, as

people around me often seem to do at two in the morning, and I was calculating the odds of us living to see sunrise. I was probably 18 years old at the time and you can see why I didn’t anticipate a long life. How I got here today is a mystery, but it could also be destiny. I remember that night that every time the taxi hit a humpback bridge too hard Jim would wake up, look around him, then look at me very seriously and say, “When it all goes wrong our only chance of survival is if the driver is smart enough to veer off the road and crash into the rice fields,” or words to that effect. Then he would immediately go back to sleep until the next humpback bridge. I miss my old friends. They are all dead now, but certainly not forgotten. For me, even in my autumn years I see that Pattaya is still an adventure—a high-octane rollercoaster ride for some, and a round of golf or a day at the beach for others. And thankfully, you no longer have to take your life in your hands to get here. I’ve been living here now for almost a year, and feel I have barely scratched the surface. So if you’re out for an evening stroll in Pattaya, and you spot a Royal Enfield with sidecar, remember that it might belong to the man you see nearby, the one drinking a cold beer and watching the sun go down; staring at the horizon contemplating the meaning of life, and wondering where the sea and the next storm might take him.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Harlan Wolff left London and arrived in Bangkok in 1977 shortly after a coup but in time for martial law and a curfew. So began his long relationship with Thailand, complete with its economic roller coaster rise and fall, and curious clandestine occasional democracy. At one time he had overstayed his visa by seven years and was therefore an illegal alien—possibly the most wanted illegal alien in Thailand, as there were very few foreigners in those days and even fewer like him. However, he rectified the situation in his late 20s, and has been a legal alien ever since. Having turned survival into an art form, and having become fluent in Thai, his situation gradually improved, although it was still a harum-scarum existence fuelled by alcohol, and accompanied by rogues. The supporting cast included foreign businessmen and criminals, alcoholics, local and imported gangsters, gamblers, whores, politicians, and policemen. The salt of the earth to this aspiring writer. His maternal grandfather was a well-known Swedish war correspondent, and Harlan claimed from early childhood that he too would be a writer—and the search for the required life experiences was the driving force behind his decision to travel to Thailand at such a young age. By the 1990s he had become the person foreigners went to when they had problems, and so began his life as a private detective and troubleshooter. In the last 20 years he has successfully solved cases of theft, industrial espionage, extortion, kidnapping, and murder, both in Thailand and around the world. The life of his fictional character Carl Engel, featured in novels such as Bangkok Rules, is not far removed from the author’s own experiences. The private investigation business was successful enough to provide Harlan with a life of five-star hotels, fast cars, slow lunches and beautiful women. He took to the high life like a duck to water and although he found the low life an interesting place to have visited, he says he is glad he didn’t have to stay there forever. He was also the man behind Wolff’s Jazz Bar on Sukhumvit Soi 11 (although that venue closed its doors in 2016). Now into his third marriage he retains a fondness for single malts and Cuban cigars, and remains an avid collector of leather-bound books and classical music on vinyl. He began writing after his 50th birthday, claiming he had at last acquired sufficient ammunition, and promises an autobiography when, and if, he turns 60. www.harlanwolff.com

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Pullman Pattaya Hotel G

In Pattaya, the area known as ‘North Beach’—located just a few minutes’ drive north of Pattaya City—is perfect for lovers of sand, surf, and fresh sea breezes. And that, in turn, helps make the Pullman Pattaya Hotel G be such a great vacation spot. The 353 room property has units ranging from the 38 sq.m Deluxe Rooms, all the way up to the two expansive 77 sq.m Royal Suites. Newly renovated, the accommodations are all decorated in stylish warm tones, with in-room facilities that include: ﬂat screen

TV; media hub; free Wi-Fi; pillow menu; bathtub and shower areas; electronic safe; coffee and tea set up; mini-fridge; and more. On top of having a beach front location, there are also three swimming pools to take a dip in, and for exclusive body pampering the Aisawan Spa offers numerous soothing treatments. There’s also a recreation area located on the 2nd floor G Club fitness area, equipped with the latest technology in exercise equipment as well as games such as table football, table tennis, billiards,

computer games and even rock climbing. In addition, 16 event spaces with stylish décor and state-of-the-art tech are available for events and meetings, while The Beach Club Restaurant oﬀers sumptuous cuisine from Thai and international menus as well as an extensive wine list. The restaurant is further complemented by the nearby stylishly furnished Pool Bar, the casual Beach Club Bar with a stunning sunset view, and Sunset Lounge— an exclusive VIP area for Executive Club room, and Suite guests.

Pullman Pattaya Hotel G 445/3 Wongamart Beach, Pattaya-Naklua Rd, Soi 16 | T: +66 (0) 3841 1940-8 | E: h7540-re@accor.com

www.pullmanpattayahotelg.com

TRAVEL | where to stay

Renaissance Pattaya Resort Feel “born again” at this sophisticated and stylish seafront getaway

he low-rise Renaissance Pattaya Resort & Spa, located a short drive south of Pattaya City, is a sophisticated and stylish property, offering a warm and welcoming experience for the discerning traveller. From the moment you arrive in the capacious lobby with its fisherman’s village motifs, and are greeted by the elegantly clad staff, the Renaissance exudes an air of space and calm. It’s here you first encounter the ingenious muted décor— predominantly delicate turquoise blues and greens—that creates a feeling of understated elegance and refinement throughout. With 257 rooms, in several size categories, the resort offers premium accommodation options ranging from the 40 sq.m Deluxe Balcony, to the 48

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sq.m Deluxe Balcony Seaview, the 90 sq.m Family Suite, and right up to the opulent two-storey Beachfront Pool Villa. Cleverly designed, the rooms simply ooze spaciousness, and all feature sleek, modern fixtures and fittings as well as captivating views. Event facilities include a variety of meeting rooms, all featuring state-ofthe-art technology and natural lighting, as well as a 545 sq.m grand ballroom. The 4th floor, meanwhile, is dedicated to the 24hr gym and luxury spa—the latter redolent with the promise of pampering amid soothing surroundings. In addition, the property boasts two large swimming pools, a dedicated children’s pool, and a supervised kid’s club open 8am till 8pm. For diners the Pebbles Bar and Grill overlooks the beach—home to a number of hotel loungers between

8am and 8pm—and although its focus is on seafood delicacies such as oysters and lobsters, it also boasts a popular beef grill station. Or, if you’d prefer some tapas and a cocktail as you watch the sun slowly sink, a short stroll away lies the Pool Bar, serving drinks from 9am to 7pm (food from 11am). Another recommended F&B outlet is the 170 seat 609 Kitchen, which provides an all-day dining experience. Most guests will pay a visit at breakfast, where a belly-busting buffet offers an array of choice, including numerous styles of croissants, muffins, and pastries—all freshly baked in The Deli, the restaurant’s adjoining café. In the evening there’s another copious buffet at 609, this time featuring (among many other delights) salad bar, sushi, sashimi, shwarma, carving stations, oven-baked pizzas, freshly made pastas, a cheese freezer, and plenty of desserts. Or, choose from the extensive à la carte menu. Last but not least, the R-Bar in the lobby serves drinks and bar snacks. Guests are invited to relax, take a seat on one of one of the chic comfy couches, and gaze out at the sea in the distance. Along with all these on-site amenities there’s a complimentary shuttle service to the local attractions that include the Floating Market, Underwater World, and many others. But, in the end, the icing on this resort’s cake is its engaging staff. Always happy to offer assistance or suggestions, they complement the calming, oceanside ambience perfectly, allowing you to relax, reawaken your senses, and unwind—all in luxurious style and comfort. by Gary Anthony Rutland

Renaissance Pattaya Resort & Spa

9/9 Moo 3, Na Jomtien, Sattahip Tel: 03 825 9099 renaissance-hotels.marriott.com bangkok101.com

where to stay | TRAVEL

White Sand Residences Combining spacious rooms and spectacular views

he impressive 37 storey high White Sand Beach Residences Pattaya features 60 sophisticated and refined condo units to choose from. Spacious rooms and sensational panoramic vistas are the order of the day—every day. Whether on the 29th floor or the 5th, every room comes with its own large balcony and a stellar view that can be enjoyed morning, noon, or night. The property has five stylish room and suite configurations on offer, ranging from the 50 sq.m Studio to the 50-60 sq.m One Bedroom, and the 83 sq.m Two Bedroom with two bathrooms. The remaining two designs are the 90 sq.m Family Two Bedroom, and the truly humungous 142 sq.m Executive Two Bedroom, and all units—apart from the Studio—come with a full kitchenette, making them perfect for extended stays. Meanwhile, the building’s interior is decorated on nautical lines, with porthole and life-belt mirrors outside the elevators on every floor, and marine life prints decorating the rooms. The Port Café onsite restaurant continues this nautical theme, with wall-sized black and white photos of bangkok101.com

racing yachts, and a mural opposite the entrance inspired by the sci-fi film 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. The café is a functional all-day casual dining experience (with a sumptuous breakfast buffet each morning) that benefits from an adventurous Thai approach to local and international cuisine. In fact, the food is never less than interesting and often downright clever in some of the combinations presented. Thai and Western favourites are available, but dishes such as Spaghetti with Dried Chilli, Garlic and Bacon are an excellent example of the rewards that can be had from adding a personal touch to a menu. It’s a must try for lovers of fresh, hearty fare—prepared with a twist and a desire to offer customers something a little different. As a nod to the aforementioned 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea mural, the bar list includes signature cocktails such as The Nautilus (made with white rum, Malibu, lime juice, coconut milk, and grenadine), The Giant Squid, and the Captain Nemo—another great example of the adventurous spirit prevalent in the café. Recreational facilities include the large and alluring outdoor swimming

pool, which features unique faux rock formations. It’s set amongst the gardens, close to the property’s private beach, and is reached by crossing a bridge over a small river that adds a nice natural touch to the manicured grounds. There are also some other amenities close by on the lobby floor, such as a children’s play room, a table tennis room, a snooker and pool table area, and a fitness room with adjoining steam room. In addition, tennis courts can be found a short stroll away. The White Sand Beach Residences Pattaya are ideally located on Jomtien Beach (directly beside the Mövenpick hotel), and next year a new road right outside the entrance will provide a hi-speed link to Highway 7—direct to U-Tapao International Airport—which will make these elegant units even more desirable as either investment properties or for short, medium, or long term stays. by Gary Anthony Rutland

White Sand Beach Residences Pattaya

56 Sukhumvit Rd, Moo 2, Na Jomtien Tel: 03 300 5210 www.whitesandbeachpattaya.com APRIL 2018 | 59

Art & Culture

Photo Feature

Sanctuary of Truth Located at Rachvate Cape, in the village of Naklua in North Pattaya, the Sanctuary of Truth is one of the city’s most intricate and iconic cultural landmarks. And though it looks like a temple, it’s true purpose is to expose visitors to religious and philosophical truths while at the same time keeping traditional Thai construction and woodcarving techniques alive. This eye-popping structure draws huge numbers of tourists on a daily basis, despite the fact that it is not actually finished. In fact, it has been under construction for more than 20 years, and it might take another 15 years before the job is done. The visionary behind this project was Thai millionaire Lek Viriyaphant—he also created the Erawan Museum and the Ancient City Muang Boran—and although he passed away in 2000, his family continues to make sure his vision becomes a reality. To this end, huge numbers of craftsmen (and women) work here on a daily basis, carving the ornate sculptures by hand. In fact, with their work boots, hard hats and array of tools, they literally become part of the tour. This gigantic wooden construction covers the area of more than two rais, and the topmost point measures about 105 metres high. The building was constructed according to ancient Thai techniques, and when complete every square inch will be covered with wooden carvings. The sculpted forms reflect ancient visions of earth, ancient knowledge, and various Eastern philosophies, and showcase the seven creators: Heaven, Earth, Father, Mother, Moon, Sun, and Stars. There are many other spiritual allusions to be found amidst the dizzying array of sculpted surfaces, and even if you don’t fully understand the symbolic significance of the decorations, it’s almost impossible to visit this sanctuary and not find it awe-inspiring. The Sanctuary of Truth is open every day from 8am until 5pm. Admission is B500 for adults, and B250 for children (toddlers admitted free).

words & photos by Bruce Scott

www.sanctuaryoftruth.com

TRAVEL | upcountry now

POI SANG LONG FESTIVAL April 1-3

Travellers to Chiang Mai’s Mae Hong Son region can check out the three-day Poi Sang Long Festival, which is actually more of a religious ceremony. It is an annual event celebrated by the Shan (or Tai Yai) tribes, in which young boys from 7 to 14 years of age go to the temple to be ordained as novice monks. On the first day the boys are received, on the second day there is a Sang Long parade, and the third day, called “Kam Sang”, is the ordination day. This ceremony takes place at temples throughout Mae Hong Son.

ELEPHANT BACK ORDINATION April 7-8

Also referred to as Buat Chang, the Si Satchanalai Elephant Back Ordination Procession is a traditional practice of the Thai Phuan—citizens of Ban Hat Siao, in Sukhothai. On the first day a procession takes place, but on the following day a spectacular procession of ordination candidates—destined for the monkhood—dressed in colourful costumes and sitting on the backs of some 20-30 decorated elephants. The ordination ceremony includes head shaving, bathing, and dressing up candidates (as well as elephants). The event takes place in and around the village and the Si Satchanalai District Office.

NANG YAI WAT KHANON FESTIVAL April 13-14

Nang Yai is a form of shadow play found in Thailand, using puppets made of painted buffalo hide, and following a story that is narrated by songs, chants, and music. This year’s Nang Yai Wat Khanon Festival, held at the Wat Kanon Thai Shadow Theatre Museum in Ratchaburi, will feature shadow plays, booths displaying artwork, Thai-Mon food stalls, a flea market by freelance artists, a Khon dance from the Fine Arts Department’s alumni, a Lakhon Chatree puppet show, a Dikir Hulu (Thai Muslim folk dance), and performances by students at the front courtyard of the museum.

PHUKET BIKE WEEK April 11-14, 20-21

The Phuket Bike Week 2018 marks the 24th anniversary of this annual event and promises to be the largest gathering of motorcyclists in Thailand, as organizers are expecting to draw over 10,000 riders, from 30 countries, along with 50,000 onlookers, to the island of Phuket. This event aims to put Phuket at the forefront of Asian and international communities of big bike enthusiasts, and to promote Phuket tourism at the same time. From the 11th to the 14th the bikers will gather in Patong—overlapping with the Songkran Festival—before moving to Phuket Town on the 20th and 21st. 68 | APRIL 2018

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X2 Vibe Buriram Hotel Designed with both Trendy Travellers and Sports Fans in Mind Located in the vicinity of the famous Buriram United football stadium and speedway race circuit, X2 Vibe Buriram Hotel offers a hotel experience like no other, designed with both trendy travellers and sport fans in mind. The property features 3 different room types, offering a choice of 56 Deluxe rooms, 6 Deluxe Pool Access rooms and 4 Grand Deluxe Pool Access, and 2 One-Bedroom suites. All accommodations are decorated in a modern, chic, contemporary style, with the sport motif decorations adding a touch of fun and excitement. Other room amenities include Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, satellite TV, coffee/tea making facilities, mini bar, private balcony, in-room safe, and more. In addition, guests can enjoy brand new luxury hotel facilities such as the beautiful outdoor swimming pool, ﬁtness centre, the 4K Café (providing a range of drinks and refreshments), and the rooftop bar with its racing car design. X2 Vibe Buriram Hotel is walking distance to both Robinson’s Buriram and Big C, making it very continent for business and leisure travelers alike, and it’s just a short drive from the airport as well.

X2 Vibe Buriram Hotel

405 Moo 10, Tambon Isan, Amphoe Muang, Buriram 31000 | Tel: 04 463 4678 | Email: book.br@X2vibe.com www.X2vibe.com • www.facebook.com/X2vibeburiram

ART

| ART & CULTURE

Under My Skin

Artist creates his own hybrid style by blending parallel cultures

his unique exhibition presents the latest collection of paintings by KRISSADANK ‘OPAL’ INTASORN that were motivated by, and created from, his memories of film and other media, including classic Disney cartoons, various horror movies, and even fantasy sci-fi movies like Star Wars and Jurassic Park—which have always been amongst the artist’s favourites, since he was young. All these assembled influences continue to keep on playing their impressive scenes inside his head. Much like a tattoo, they are a long lasting reminder existing just underneath the skin and always influencing the artist’s ideas. Opal’s versatile personalities are also on display for viewers in what is called ‘Opal’s World’, a 2D personal universe that explains in-depth the true self of ‘Opal’, utilizing Lanna (Northern Thai) artistic styles as his point of origin, and coupling it all with pop culture references. He has thus created his own particular style by blending these parallel cultures, ending up with a brand new hybrid he calls (not surprisingly) POP-LANNA ART. Once you see it, the sensory taste of it remains an art experience you'll never forget—as it will get “under your skin”. Krissadank ‘Opal’ Intasorn is an artist from Chiang Rai, Thailand, who graduated from Silpakorn University in Thailand in 2013. He deals primarily with the subject of an independent-spirited homosexual living amongst Lanna society in Thailand. Societal values have been set in place by beliefs, faith, and mythology, passed on over long period of time. Through his paintings he decisively expresses his wrath against old culture and rules, using many mediums, such as Sa paper, wood, and the inclusion of mixed media. While his works bring to mind traces of historical Lanna culture, his new series of artworks have become more Pop-Art in style—especially in terms of colours—reflecting the overriding influence of Pop culture nowadays. UNDER MY SKIN runs from APRIL 7-28 at the NUMBER 1 GALLERY (19 Silom Rd, Soi 21). Viewing hours are Monday to Saturday from 11am till 7pm. For more information, call 02 630 2523. www.number1gallery.com

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

APRIL 3-MAY 6 Period of Time

Ardel Gallery of Modern Art 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10:30am-7pm, Sun, 10:30am-5:30pm Tel: 02 422 2092 | www.ardelgallery.com

Artists Prakarn Jantaravichit and Kingkan Suntornchuen are also art instructors from Silpakorn University, and in this exhibit they present their ideas in two series of artworks that conform to one another. Prakarn’s ‘Holiday’s Eyewitness’ deals with emotions, ideas, feelings, and points of view that cause peace of mind. He creates symbols from different forms found in everyday life. Meanwhile, Kingkan’s ‘Crossing Time’ consists of a set of drawings that express the understanding of change, which is the eternal truth; the realization of every single moment, and the relaxation and search for peace within oneself.

APRIL 5-MAY 6 Crossing the Appearances The Jam Factory Gallery

41/1-5 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Viewing hours: Daily, 11am-8pm Tel: 02 861 0950 | www.facebook.com/thejamfactorybangkok

As photographer Deborah Metsch explains: “I lived in these African towns, and while in this part of the world took advantage of the light and the colours of this continent— which illuminated my world—to take snapshots. I created this series with a half-frame 35mm camera which allowed me to juxtapose two images separated by a black line. This black line is not a concept created through montage. It’s a naturally occurring part of the film. The photos follow each other in a random fashion; two moments, two instant shots, only one image. All of which leads to numerous stories for us to imagine."

APRIL 26-JUNE 4 Contemporary Transformations Duke Contemporary Art Space

1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Viewing hours: Daily, 11am-midnight Tel: 094 647 8888 | www.facebook.com/duke.gaysorn

This upcoming show is curated by Manfredi Style—the Italian Art & Design multidisciplinary initiative based in Florence and Singapore. On display will be: the human-sized sculptures crafted with found objects and resins by Dario Tironi (Italy); the portrait sculptures made of recycled wood by Strook (Belgium); the unique paintings of street artists Helio Bray (Portugal) and Laurent Peybernes (France); abstract photographs of Luuk de Haan (Netherlands); the altered landscapes photographs of Paolo Giordano (Italy); and the Super Hero-themed prints, intertwining with political figures, by Alessandro Rabatti (Italy). 72 | APRIL 2018

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

UNTIL APRIL 14 This Nor Mundane Speedy Grandma Gallery

672/50-52 Soi 28 Charoen Krung Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 11am-7pm Tel: 090 117 2991 | www.facebook.com/speedygrandma

In this group show—a Collective Fiction exhibition— different artists explore the a different physical space of a fiction, and each physical space will have a door within it. The question thus is, what are the doors between each dimension in different fictions? This collective narrative thus creates a dialogue of parallel spaces. Participants include Aaron Grech, Asst. Prf. Suchanee Glinslisdhi, Marcel Breuer, Tammarat Kittiwatanokun, Jeff Gompertz, Jame Jame, Jeno Kim, MM Kosum, Nut Sawasdee, Pearamon Tulavardhana, Poom Nuthong, Tae Parvit, Unchalee Anantawat, and more.

UNTIL APRIL 28 Echoes of Order ATTA Gallery

OP Garden, Unit 1109, 4-6 Soi 36 Charoen Krung Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 1pm-7:30pm, Sun, 1:30pm-6pm Tel: 02 234 6422 | www.attagallery.com

The repeated arrangement of similar fragments, lines, or colours, creates a pattern. If the formation is too orderly the viewer will lose interest quickly, because the pattern is effortlessly decoded. If the structure has too few repetitions, or the elements are too varied throughout, the pattern will fall apart in chaos and confusion. In this exhibition, artists Carina Shoshtary (Germany) and Attai Chen (Israel) present their latest works, which are composed of tiny carved particles from paper and graffiti. In an intuitive process, their pieces grow bit by bit—developing complex patterns with their own rhythm and logic.

UNTIL MAY 27 I Am You

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) 939 Rama I Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 10am-9pm Tel: 02 214 6630-8 | www.bacc.or.th

Vasan Sitthiket is a prominent Thai artist whose art has been internationally recognized. He is one of the first Thai contemporary artists whose interdisciplinary works reflect and criticize social and political movements. Vasan’s activist life has also made for him a firm place in the country’s art history. This exhibition presents works made since 1975 until the present. It’s a retrospective exhibition covering the artist’s extensive portfolios—from paintings, sculptures, music, poetry, performance, and even Facebook statuses. As part of the exhibition there will be a curator tour, an artist talk, a critic talk and workshops for kids. bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

Bangkok Sculpture Centre

This privately funded museum showcases an extensive collection of Thai sculpture—both past and present By Luc Citrinot

side from the arduous expenditure of effort required to get there, a visit to the Bangkok Sculpture Centre (BSC) is a rewarding venture in its own right, and an excellent introduction to Thailand sculpture. If you do undertake the trip, your patience will certainly be rewarded. In the middle of nowhere, in Northern Bangkok, far out along Lat Phrao Road, stands the headquarters of the CMO Group, a modern glass and steel structure that looks a bit like an airport terminal. Separated by a suspended garden and large green rest area is the Bangkok Creative Playground, a space that

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is also home to the BSC—probably the most complete sculpture museum in Thailand. The BSC is a privately funded, non-profit organization, established to promote Thai art. The works are exhibited in exceptionally large spaces, and co-working areas are also woven into the fabric of the museum itself. There’s also an exhibition space here that displays some works taken from the collection at Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC). The collection presented belongs to local tycoon and well-known photographer Sermkhun Kunawong. A businessman originally, Mr Kunawong and his daughter have both been collecting art—primarily Thai sculpture— bangkok101.com

museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

for many decades. Like many wealthy art collectors in the Kingdom, the pair decided to open a museum to share their amazing collection with a larger public. “I wish Thai art gains worldwide recognition”, explains Mr. Kunawong in the introduction brochure. Visitors to the museum, which first opened in July of 2004, will have the opportunity to cast their gaze over some 200 pieces of art. The exhaustive collection shows an amazing diversity of artists—anonymous and famous alike. The collection covers 1,000 years of creation, with rare sculptures of Buddha figures going as far back as to the Dvaravati period in the 11th century. A special room highlights historical figures of Buddha showing the difference between Lopburi, Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Rattanakosin styles. Another area looks at the beginning of modern sculpture, from the 1930s to the 1950s. This period was a time when Thai artists were very much influenced by Western interpretation, particularly under the influence of Italian artist Corrado Ferroci—better known in Thailand under his Thai name Silpa Bhirasri. His influence covered 40 years of Thai arts. It is only with sculptors such as Khien Yimsiri or Chit RIenpracha, in the middle of the 1950s, that Thai sculpture started to express its own identity. Yimsiri is present in the collection with original sculptures such as the very famous “Musical Rhythm” and “Land of Smile”. However, the Bangkok Sculpture Centre is primarily dedicated to new sculpture, highlighting the generations of artists working from the middle of the 1970s until today. An entire section of the museum is given over to bangkok101.com

mixed media and conceptual art, which features numerous abstract pieces fashioned out of wood, iron, clay, stone, or by mixing various media. Among the most impressive sculptures is the one by artist Kham-ai Dejdoungtae, who created a giant elephant from wood. The piece eloquently illustrates the link between man, animal, and nature. In another impressive display, artist Manop Suwanpinta explores the psyche of Thai people with human sculptures comprised of disarticulated bodies, while Chalermchai Kositpipat expresses his fascination for religion, beliefs, and fantasy, through his figures of divine fish and divine turtles. Even one of Alex Face’s three-eyed baby-child statues makes an appearance in the outdoor garden—a nod to some of the Kingdom’s more contemporary 21st century artists. The overall collection is varied, deftly juxtaposing more traditional Thai art with more challenging, contemporary pieces. Take a stroll along the suspended gardens, with its contemporary sculptures and surrounded by the minimalist architecture of the main building, and you might think that you’ve suddenly been transported to New York City. INFORMATION: The Bangkok Sculpture Centre is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 4pm. The centre is located at 4/18-19 Nuan Chan 56 Road (Bueng Kum). The closest MRT station is Lad Phrao, which is still about 20 minutes away from the Sculpture Center so you’ll need a taxi. Call 02 088 3888 for more information. www.bangkoksculpturecenter.org APRIL 2018 | 75

ART & CULTURE | music makers

Rasmee Wayrana

Soulful songbird spreads her wings and gets ready to take-off By Gary Anthony Rutland

orn in Thailand’s Ubon Ratchatani province, Rasmee Wayrana has been ruffling feathers within the Thai musical community since the age of five. And now, with the release of her second album—Rasmee Isan Soul Arom (“arom” translates as “emotion”)— she’s set to soar to the very top of the Thai musical tree with her often unique and always captivating hybrid musical style that she’s dubbed ‘Isan Soul’; a blend of jazz and pop with more traditional Isan and Thai instruments and stylings. She was born into a musical family—her father was a MorLam Jariang singer—and so, like a songbird in its nest, she’s been surrounded by music (and encouraged by her father) since she was a hatchling. Morlam itself is a traditional Laos and Isan term meaning either expert song or singer, while Jariang is a style of Khmer folk singing. In the end it’s no small surprise that Rasmee has grown to create her own fusion sound utilizing these musical stylings, as it’s clearly built into her DNA. She released her debut album Isan Soul in 2016, scooping awards for Best Female Singer, Best Album, and Best Song—for the language transcending timeless beauty “Maya”—at Thailand’s Kom Chad Luek awards. She’s also toured abroad, receiving rave reviews and drawing comparisons with such singing legends as Nina Simone and Billie Holiday. Although she now resides in Chiang Mai, the release of her new album means it’s time once again to spread her wings and take her cardinal talent to her ever-growing legion of fans. I recently spoke to her about the new album—its incubation, gestation, and hatching—along with her plans for the future. 76 | A PR I L 2018

risks. Other songs are a reflection of my mood in a particular situation, like “Emotion”, “The Beauty of Loneliness”, or “Captured by the Nib of a Pen”. How would you say your style has evolved, both lyrically and musically, since your first record? The lyrics still talk about Thai life, my feelings and personal experiences. Musically, we have incorporated more instruments and influences, from Morlam and Luk Thung to African music, Blues, Rock, and Pop.

How many months did the new album take to record? The recording itself didn’t take too long—roughly a week—but the preparation took almost a year. It was recorded in Bangkok at Dynamic Studio and Studio 28, with Satukan Thyatira (my guitar player), and a full band that includes members old and new. Studio 28 sponsored the record so I would like to thank them for their great support. Tell us about your songwriting process and inspirations. Normally I write songs when inspiration comes, which can be anytime. Mostly, I like to capture my feelings at the moment I write the songs, so in the end the result is quite unpredictable. On this new album in some of the songs, like “Little Girls”, I use my own experience to denounce the difficulties that Isan children who live in remote areas go through in order to get a proper education. In “Free Beauty” I criticize the standardized idea of beauty that exists in this country, where people feel the need to take pills to become skinnier or whiter regardless of the health

Considering your now sizeable non-Thai fanbase, do you have plans to write some songs in English and perhaps tour overseas again? Absolutely. We are always looking for interesting events abroad where my music could fit, and one of my future goals is definitely to write some music in English. How do you feel about being compared to legends like Nina Simone and Billie Holiday? It’s a huge honour for me because I love them both, and they have been big influences for me. Anyway, I do not take it too seriously, I just try to do my work the best way I can. What are some of your future plans? I will take a short break in April, as we have quite a few concerts confirmed for the following months. I am also already working on a small side project with a traditional Isan musician, so I hope we can release some Morlam songs in the future. For details of Rasmee's upcoming concerts, including a possible Bangkok CD release party, or to purchase her music directly, visit Rasmee online: www.facebook.com/wayrana.rasmee www.rasmeewayrana.com bangkok101.com

cinema scope | ART & CULTURE

Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott

Mon Rot Fai

Donaire y Esplendor

his month the TK Park Contemporary World Film Series returns with a special screening of the film Donaire y Esplendor (Grace & Splendour). The 2017 film, directed by Arturo Montenegro, is from Panama, and this marks the first time a film from that country has been officially shown in Bangkok. The lively and romantic comedy gives nods to both Romeo and Juliet and West Side Story as it tells the tale of star-crossed lovers from rival street gangs—set against the backdrop of a grand carnival in the small town of Las Tablas. The film is supported by the Embassy of Panama, who will provide drinks and snacks afterwards, and the Ambassador of Panama, HE Maria Del Carmen Martinez Arosemena, will introduce the film. The Thailand Knowledge (TK) Park is located on the 8th floor of CentralWorld (999/9 Rama 1 Rd), the screenings begin at 4pm, and tickets are only B20 each. www.tkpark.or.th. Meanwhile, over at the Foreign Correspondent’s Club of Thailand (518/5 Ploenchit Rd, Maneeya Center, Penthouse), there are four special film screenings this month which are part of the ongoing Monday night FCCT documentary series. All films are shown with Thai subtitles, and a discussion follows each screening. The films begin at 7pm, and admission is free for members (B150 for nonmembers). There’s also an optional buffet for B250. The series begins on April 2nd with Citizen Jane: Battle for the City (2016). This bio-doc recounts the struggles of Jane Jacobs, the visionary activist and author of The Death bangkok101.com

Citizen Jane

Landfill Harmonic

and Life of Great American Cities, who fought to preserve urban communities in the face of destructive, short-sighted development projects. Her biggest battle eventually saved historic New York City neighbourhoods during the ruthless redevelopment era of urban planner Robert Moses in the 1960s. Hers is a true David and Goliath tale. The series continues on April 9th with Landfill Harmonic (2015), in which music director Favio Chavez guides the Recycled Orchestra of Cateura, a Paraguayan group that plays instruments made entirely out of garbage. It’s a beautiful story about the transformative power of music, which also highlights two vital issues of our times—poverty and waste pollution. The FCCT will be closed on Monday, April 16, but the series resumes on April 23rd with the 2016 Thai film Mon Rot Fai (Railway Sleepers). Directed by Sompot Chidgasornpongse the film is described as a contemplative study of Thailand’s rail system. Finally, the series concludes on April 30th with Enron: The Smartest Guys in the Room (2005), a documentary exploring the fall of the Enron Corporation, arguably the most shocking example of modern corporate corruption. As we watch these schemers resort to all kinds of underhanded dealings in order to make money at any cost and keep their high-paying jobs, it’s hard to believe that so little has changed in the 13 years since this hubristic study of irresponsible corporate greed was released. www.fccthai.com APRIL 2018 | 77

ART & CULTURE | special report

Cinematic Slumberland At this year’s International Film Festival Rotterdam, Thai filmmaker Apichatpong Weerasethakul created a temporary hotel designed exclusively for sleeping, accompanied by a unique 120-hour film Words by Paige Lim Photos by Jan de Groe

n Thai filmmaker Apichatpong Weerasethakul’s world, one can never be certain if binary opposites truly exist. The lines between sleeping and consciousness, dream and reality, past and present, light and darkness, are routinely blurred and redefined as seen in his previous works: Tropical Malady (2004), Syndromes and a Century (2006), and Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives, which won the Palme d’Or at the 2010 Cannes Film Festival. Such concepts may sound abstract on paper and appear even more so when transposed to the silver screen. But at this year’s International Film Festival Rotterdam (IFFR) in the Netherlands, European audiences got just the opportunity to transcend these intangible boundaries with a visit to Sleepcinemahotel—a one-off, installation-cum-fully operational hotel created by Apichatpong himself. During the first week of the festival, which ran from January 24th to February 4th, 2018, an entire hall on the 78 | APRIL 2018

3rd floor of the World Trade Center Rotterdam had been converted into a cozy communal dormitory space. Inside, three single and five double loft beds were mounted at different heights, all connected by scaffolding framework decked with netting and canvas curtains. Seems like any ordinary setup, till one notices the soft glow of a giant circular screen looming out of the darkness—almost like a vortex gateway to another dimension. For a fee of €75, guests could spend a night at the Sleepcinemahotel and be part of an immersive film-sleep experiment, watching a 120-hour stream of documentary clips—contributed by the EYE Filmmuseum and The Netherlands Institute for Sound and Vision—playing round-the-clock. It’s a serene amalgamation of projected images: sleeping humans, sleeping animals, clouds, landscapes, waterscapes, boats, windmills, and no footage is ever repeated. Members of the public could also visit the installation in the daytime through a viewing balcony. bangkok101.com

special report | ART & CULTURE Whether these hypnagogic images are capable of seeping into an unconscious mind when one is asleep is really the question Sleepcinemahotel seeks to answer. In the morning, guests are encouraged to note down their dream experiences in a “dream” guestbook. The idea that cinema shares an inherently close link with dreaming was what served as Apichatpong’s inspiration for Sleepcinemahotel.

“I’ve always believed that we possess the best cinema,” he said. “We don’t need the cinema of others. When we sleep, it’s our own images that we see, and our own experiences at night. It’s underrated—we just throw them away, but in fact each time we dream, it’s a lot.” It is perhaps no coincidence that the time it takes for a human being to complete an entire five-stage sleep cycle—90 minutes—is also the average duration of a feature film, noted Apichatpong. “That’s why we go to the cinema. It’s like a cave and is dark. Cinema is always trying to mimic dreams. It’s about getting lost in a different narrative that we cannot control.” Accompanied by an ambient soundtrack of waves, bird noises, and the creaking of ships, designed by Apichatpong’s sound designer, the images for Sleepcinemahotel were specially curated with Rotterdam’s port city status and historical context in mind. Apichatpong has been a time-honoured guest at the IFFR over the last two decades, with the festival supporting and screening many of his films beginning from the 1998 documentary Mysterious Object At Noon, for which he received a grant from the Hubert Bals Fund. “Rotterdam is a city that was bombed and had to be rebuilt from nothing”, he remarked. “What is manifested in the footage onscreen is the existence and memory of the past…so it’s like reconnecting the spirit from a different time.” Another aspect the filmmaker wanted to explore was a “communal experience”, with the hotel designed to have guests all sleeping in the same space. “When we grow up and become adults, we become used to this privacy of sleep,” the filmmaker explained. “But Sleepcinemahotel brings you back to your childhood when you would go to camp, or have sleepovers with friends.” bangkok101.com

The festival’s visitors enthusiastically responded in kind and Sleepcinemahotel was fully booked for its entire fiveday duration. One guest even mentioned to Apichatpong that it was the best sleep he had had in months. While his 2015 feature film Cemetery of Splendour (a film that was banned in Thailand) was about soldiers struck with a strange sleeping illness, the filmmaker’s fascination with the dynamics of sleep go back much further. “In the late 90s I made a short film recording myself when I just woke up,” he recalls. “I don’t know why I was so obsessed with this state in the beginning. But I was fascinated with observing my own body through the day, and later when I was into meditation, it made more sense. Because you’re just observing your breathing, your focus, and your thinking.” To be more precise, Apichatpong’s area of interest really lies with the unknowable “in-between”; the border separating between two physical or non-physical states. This first began when he shot his 2002 feature Blissfully Yours, about a love affair that sparks during a picnic on the Thai-Burmese border. “Since that time I’ve been interested in the border between light and darkness, beginning from fact and fiction, and whether this exists,” he went on to say. “Sleep is something that we experience daily, and it’s a line that is very interesting—from the way we fall from conscious to unconscious, or something in between.”

More than just a biological function, sleep has been a recurring motif in Apichatpong’s lexicon of metaphorical language when it comes to his works. Almost 40 minutes of sleeping time can be observed in Cemetery of Splendour, with the film’s central sleeping epidemic that besets its characters serving as a social and political allegory on Thailand’s history. His next film, set to be shot in Colombia in 2019, will likewise feature more sleepinduced hallucinations. “Politically speaking, our body is a vehicle,” he adds. “When you cannot deal with reality, you sleep because it’s the place where nobody can control you. Even you cannot control yourself, so sleep can be a liberation.” APRIL 2018 | 79

Primal smoked chicken with barley curry, wild mushroom, mashed potato, and mac â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cheese

| FOOD & DRINK

AROY a great place to meat

It may be too far out of town for some, but there’s plenty of culinary action over on Rama 9 Soi 49 (not far from THE NINE CENTER shopping complex), which is fast becoming a veritable restaurant row uptown. One reason to make the trek is PRIMAL, a newly opened lunch and dinner venue specializing in juicy prime cuts of meat that are mostly sous-vide or flame-cooked, although there are plenty of pescatarian and vegetarian options as well on the diverse menu. The only thing you won’t find here is pork, as the restaurant is fully halal. There’s no alcohol either at the moment, although the bar can whip up marvelous mocktails (try the Lemon Coffee). The man in the chef’s hat here is YAKUP TANGSONGSIRISAK, who spent a year honing his craft as Sous Chef for Ian Kittichai at Issaya Siamese Club—so he’s got kitchen cred to spare! www.facebook.com/primalbkk

sra bua unveils the secret of summer Danish Chef HENRIK YDE-ANDERSEN was in town recently to unveil the new ‘Summer Journey Set Menu’ at SRA BUA BY KIIN KIIN, the Michelin-starred restaurant at the SIAM KEMPINSKI HOTEL BANGKOK (991/9, Rama 1 Rd). Teaming up with Head Chef Chayawee Suthcharitchan, the pair have created a menu based entirely upon the use of seasonal ingredients, with several courses presented as re-workings of classic Thai recipes—based on Andersen’s experiences and observations in Thailand (since he first visited in 2000). The new four-course lunch, and eight-course dinner menus will take diners on an exciting culinary exploration, offering a vibrant and sensory menu that explores the colours, tastes and textures of Thailand’s rich and diverse cuisine, serving dishes such as Veal with Lemongrass and Pickled Pineapple, and Quail in Aromatic Coconut Milk. www.kempinski.com/en/bangkok/siam-hotel/dining/sra-bua-by-kiin-kiin

new and noted on the foodie radar If pizza is your passion there’s plenty of positive buzz surrounding the newly opened DELICES DE CAPOUE. Located in a small alley off Ekkamai (just past Soi 19), this modest-sized, Frenchowned resto makes its wood-fired pizzas using 72-hour raised dough. Meanwhile, the amount of restaurants in Bangkok expanding their mini-empires continues to grow. Café kings Luka, from Pan Road, have now opened LUKA MOTO on Thong Lor Soi 11, while Holey Artisan Bakery now has HOLEY KITCHEN (39/17 Soi Suan Phlu) to bookend with its Sukhumvit Soi 31 flagship spot.

not new, but new to us 101 RESTAURANT (fittingly located on Sukhumvit Soi 101, not far from Udom Suk BTS station) offers what many say is perhaps the best English Breakfast in town. Named the ‘Full Monty’, it consists of two eggs, bacon, sausages, black pudding, hash browns, baked beans, grilled tomato, mushrooms, toast, and coffee, all for just B330. There’s other Western fare as well, including eggs Benedict, fish and chips, and beef stew, but we just love this place for the name, obviously. It’s been open for a while, and the fellow running it has worked at various English pubs in Bangkok, such as the now defunct Queen Victoria from Sukhumvit Soi 23.

bangkok101.com

APRIL 2018 | 81

FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

Thai Summer Delicacy “Kaow Chae” at Spice Market

Anantara Siam Bangkok | 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 | siam-bangkok.anantara.com From now until April 30th, enjoy Kaow Chae—steamed rice soaked in Jasmine-scented water—along with six tasty traditional Thai side dishes: deep-fried shrimp paste balls; sweet dried turnips; deep-fried shallots with shredded pork; sweet shredded fish; steamed green chilli stuffed with minced pork wrapped in egg net; and sweet shredded pork. All items are carefully prepared by Thai Chef Warinthorn Sumrithphon, and available each day (except Sunday), between 11:30am and 2:30 pm, priced at B720 per set.

Celebrate the Tastes of Spring at Yamazato

The Okura Prestige Bangkok | 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9001 | www.okurabangkok.com The chefs at Yamazato—The Okura Prestige Bangkok’s Michelin Plate signature Japanese restaurant—welcome spring with special Gozen lunch platters and a Kaiseki dinners, featuring the freshest of seasonal delicacies. In addition to succulent sashimi, the first lunch platter includes firefly squid with clams, plus shrimp dumpling soup. The secoud platter includes tempura plus grilled sea bass, and simmered pork belly. Lunches (11:30am-2:30pm) and dinners (6pm-10:30pm) are available till April 22nd, priced at B1,300 and B4,500 respectively.

A Truly Thai Treat for Summer at Royal Orchid Sheraton

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers | 2 Charoen Krung Rd. Tel: 02 266 0123 | www.royalorchidsheraton.com Enjoy the Khao Chae Set, consisting of rice soaked in iced jasmine water with assorted sides, including: Kapi Thord (deep-fried shrimp balls); Prik Sord Sai (fried peppers stuffed with minced pork and shrimp wrapped in egg net); Horm Thord (fried shallot with minced pork); Pad Pak Gard Kem (stir-fried salted radish); Pla Inzee Kem Lae Nua Sawan (fried mackerel and sweetened dried beef); and Pla Haeng Taeng-Mo (watermelon with sweetened fish flakes). This set, including Sala Loy Kaew (fruit in syrup), is available daily in the Lobby Lounge and Pools, between 11:30am and 4pm, priced at B550.

Marvellous Sunrise Afternoon Tea Set at Hanuman Bar

Siam Kempinski Hotel | 991/9, Rama I Rd. Tel: 02 162 9000 | www.kempinski.com/bangkok The Hanuman Bar adds a fascinating Japanese twist to its ‘Marvellous Sunrise Afternoon Tea Set’, available until April 30th. Inspired by a variety of Japanese ingredients and flavours, the set features Fuji apple verrine with apple chip, strawberry castella cake, wasabi multi-grain chicken sausage rolls, and more. Served daily from 2pm to 5pm the price is B750 per set for one person, including a choice of tea or coffee, B1,080 per set for one person including a glass of Chandon Brut sparkling wine, and B1,650 per set for one person including a glass of Louis Roederer champagne.

Unlimited à la Carte Social Saturday Brunch at The Reflexions

The Plaza Athénée Hotel | 61 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 650 8800 | theluxurycollection.com/theatheneehotel Recently rewarded with a Michelin Plate, The Reflexions restaurant invites epicureans to come explore unlimited à la carte creations from its new ‘Social Saturday Brunch’ menu, curated by Chef Roxanne Lange and team. Enjoy live musical accompaniment alongside palate awakening fare. Beverage packages range from Sauvignon Blanc white wine to champagne, molecular cocktails and a dedicated gin trolley. This brunch is priced as B3,888++ per person (inclusive of soft drinks, chilled juices, coffee and tea), and B6,588++ per person (inclusive of premium champagne, wine and spirits).

Spectacular Seafood Buffet at Espresso Restaurant

InterContinental Bangkok Hotel | 973 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0444 | bangkok.intercontinental.com Thorough April, come and taste the very freshest fare from the sea at Espresso’s weekend ‘Seafood Buffet’ dinner. Enjoy a premium selection of seafood specialties straight from the raw bar, prepared just for you, and finish off the meal with a range of delicious desserts. Available now, every Friday to Sunday from 6pm to 10:30pm, priced from just B2,150 per adult, and B1,075 per child under 12 years of age. Diners can also add a beverage free-flow package, priced at B999 for beer, house wine, and cocktails, or an extra B1,999, which includes champagne.

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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK

The Local

Pushing, promoting, and reinterpreting “authentic” Thai recipes

here seems to be a conscious initiative to promote regional and bona fide Thai food with more restaurants pushing the “authentic” label. With the global, widespread marketing of Thai cuisine, something has been lost, and ubiquitous, MSG-laden dishes have spread the wrong message across international outlets. Now, restaurants such as The Local by Oamthong Thai Cuisine are among the most prominent exponents of Thai cooking, reviving and reinterpreting classic recipes. The restaurant is located in a former home, a sprawl of disjointed spaces over two floors with several offshoot rooms for private dining and events. A fish stream cuts through the centre, dividing an on-site museum and a lower level dining room. I eat upstairs, in a lighter, airier space, with ample tables and bamboo seating; and a picture book menu with Thai and English descriptions. The Appetizer Set (B250) is a multicoloured, tapas-style approach to the four regions of the Kingdom— including fish cakes, rice crackers, and chicken in pandan leaves—that works as a useful introduction to Thailand’s bangkok101.com

diverse culinary traditions in seven or so bitesize plates. A rich profusion of curries follows, as though the Scoville Scale has been thrust in front of me. It’s guesswork, so I begin with the least dangerous looking: Yellow Chicken Curry (B350), but I’m deceived; it numbs my chops and stings the throat, a torrid slap, raising in warmth like a Satan fart in the mouth. There’s an accompanying plate of locally-grown vegetables, including lotus stem, undoubtedly meant to cool the mouth of a novice tourist like me. I move on to Braised Spareribs in Red Curry Sauce (B380) and a more cooling offering with tender ribs marinated in a creamy sauce. Staff insist on changing my cutlery with each mouthful, which is a frustration, but this is all a preface for the main event and the signature dish of Gaeng Run Juan (B240), an ancient recipe derived from ML Neung Ninrat, a cook in the Royal Court of King Rama V. Thin strips of beef flank are marinated in coconut milk with curry and shrimp paste, then topped with garlic cloves, whole chillies (fiery red and burn-your-balls green), all seasoned with lime juice and

shavings of lemongrass. It’s yet another tongue-burner, sending my lips aquiver. I repeatedly slurp my Thai Milk Tea (B80) for calm but to little avail. Jasmine and Brown Rice (B50) is offered in traditional, woven baskets, with both executed to perfection. I have found that when a country takes its rice seriously (so often relegated to a simple side accompaniment in Europe), the entire meal is lifted, as it is here. Desserts are mostly jellied, rubbery inventions, falling short of the savoury courses. However, there’s enough added sweetness to please. Mango and Sticky Rice (B150) is as good as any, and a selection of homemade ice-creams (B380) is pleasingly refreshing. In all, this is evocative cooking, celebrating and sharing Thai culinary achievements in a true and authentic style. By David J. Constable

The Local by Oamthong Thai Cuisine 32, Sukumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 664 0664 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11:30pm www.thelocalthaicuisine.com

APRIL 2018 | 83

FOOD & DRINK | review

Blue Elephant

Stalwart of Bangkok’s food scene achieves culinary (and curry) gold Sago Bresse Chicken (B320) consists of steamed pandan sago and butterfly pea flowers, stuffed with sweet turnip, peanuts and caramelized chicken from the Royal Projects Farm in Chiang Mai, all wrapped into meaty, gelatinous balls. This is followed by a recipe from Chantaburi province: Jeang Ron (B340), a grilled clown featherback fish served in a red curry paste with Kaffir lime leaves and cool cucumber salad, to which I add a Raw Green Mango Salad (B380), made from grated Nam Doi Mai—green mangos—to cool the palate. For mains I double up on curries with Lamb Massaman Curry (B680) and Tumee Curry with Sea Bass (B580). Both are ceremoniously placed in front of me, the Massaman bubbling in a terracotta pot above a live flame so that I’m forced to lean across and pick out the chunks of succulent lamb cooked with sweet purple potatoes. The sea bass, with fenugreek, coconut cream and okra, is equally as pleasing, with Coconut Jasmine Rice (B180) served in a hollowed coconut shell. It’s worth noting the presentation. ew restaurants in Bangkok have Thailand, notably those of her native If you’re coming to Bangkok to indulge gained the reverence of Blue Chachoengsao province. Elephant, the much-lauded Housed in a Crayola yellow colonial in food, then you must distinguish classic Thai restaurant located on the house, the Bangkok restaurant occupies between fine dining and the sprawl of street food stalls pitched up on South Sathorn Road. Indeed, few have the Old Thai Chine Building opposite every road and street corner. What even lasted as long. The first branch the Surasak BTS Skytrain station. has happened in the years since Chef opened in Brussels in 1980, followed At night, low-lights accentuate the by London in 1986, then further Sino-Portuguese style windows, while Nooror started cooking, is that the Thai’s culinary culture has grown, global expansion in Copenhagen, a mercury blue neon-light highlights exporting itself around the world, Paris, Dubai, Malta and Jakarta. The the restaurant’s elephant epithet moving into the fine dining arena. Bangkok restaurant opened in 2002, above the entrance. Inside is the Blue Elephant is a reflection of this, a relatively late newcomer to the sort of decorative dining-room motif receiving a Michelin Plate in December Blue Elephant portfolio, with Phuket that embraces and celebrates Thai 2017, and presenting ancient recipes following in 2010. culture with ornate gold and wooden served as modern plates within a As well as successful restaurants, decorations and bamboo, summerboth Thai branches run cookery house furniture (although there’d be no classical, albeit nostalgic, setting. schools, championing regional fare harm in a little splash of modernity and By David J. Constable from the four eras of Thai history. It’s some 21st-century trimmings). with an almost obsessive attentiveness More importantly, on to the menu that Chef Nooror Somany-Steppe and a varied carte du jour as large as Blue Elephant studies these ages—researching and any broadsheet, with page after page 233 South Sathorn Rd. reworking handed-down recipes, of Thai culinary staples, alongside Tel: 02 673 9353 and honouring the extensive several regional reinventions. Basically, Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm and diverse culinary traditions of a bit of everything. www.blueelephant.com

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review | FOOD & DRINK

Patara

Neighbourhood gem offers “authentically different” Thai flavours

estaurants come and go in Bangkok, and particularly in the Thong Lor area. So when you find a place, tucked down a quiet soi in said Thong Lor area that has been serving guests for over two decades, you know that it has to be something truly special. “Patara” is a name given to a Thai girl, meaning a “gracious lady” who looks after family and friends with great attention. It is also the name of the restaurant’s original founder, Khun Patara Sila–On who has been recognized as one of Thailand’s leading restauranteurs and pioneers for over four decades. Instrumental in sharing the tastes of Thailand, the first Patara branch opening its doors in London in 1990, with the Bangkok branch opening a few years later. Today, there are also branches in Beijing, Singapore, Geneva, and Vienna—all proudly presenting Thai dining at its best. In December of 2017, the Bangkok outlet was awarded a Michelin Plate in this city’s inaugural edition of the famous little red book. Located in a two-storey converted heritage house, Patara offers seating in the large dining room, elegant garden, or private dining bangkok101.com

rooms on the second floor. The décor is sophisticated and contemporary but quintessentially Thai with dark woods, luxurious silks, and Thai ornaments used throughout the restaurant. The menu features well-crafted and “authentically different” dishes based on the cuisines of all four provinces of Thailand. Think traditional, but with a twist. For starters, the Mini Thai Tacos (B220) with prawns, chicken, tofu and bean sprouts, are served in bite-sized portions and offer mouthfuls of what tastes like a traditional Phad Thai, with fried phllyo pastry forming the shell. Piquant Pomelo Salad with Norwegian Smoked Salmon (B295) followed next, and provided a lovely sweet note after the savoury tacos. Hints of creamy coconut shone through against the bitter shallots and sweet pomelo. No Thai meal would be complete without a curry, and the Tumeric Crab Meat and Betel Leaves Yellow Curry (B485), and Sweet Honey Roasted Duck Red Curry with Lychees and Pineapples (B455)—served with traditional khanom jeen (rice noodles)—both filled us nicely. Lastly, Khao Chae (B480) was

served to “cool us down” on this particularly hot summer night. A favourite of King Rama II, Khao Chae is traditionally served in the summer months in Thailand. Translating to “rice soaked in cool water”, the jasmine rice, which forms the backbone of the dish, is served with ice and fragrant jasmine water. In this version of Khao Chae the iced rice is served with a large chilli—stuffed with chicken and crab meat and coated in egg and fried to form crisp egg nets—sweet pork, sweet pickled Chinese turnips, and fragrant fried shrimp paste balls. A pandan leaf herbal tea, and watermelon with a sprinkling of sugared dried fish flakes, both accompany the dish, leaving diners refreshed and cooled down from the inside-out. This special dish will be served throughout the month of April (usually the hottest month of the year). by Kelly Harvey

Patara Restaurant

375, Thong Lor Soi 19 Tel: 02 185 2960-1 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm www.patarathailand.com APRIL 2018 | 85

FOOD & DRINK | review

Jim Thompson Restaurant The legacy lives on with warm hospitality and authentic delicacies

im Thompson was, and still is, known by many names: “The Thai Silk King”, “Legendary American of Thailand”, and “Bangkok’s leading farang host”, amongst many others. Writers, diplomats, and even Hollywood stars, all flocked to dine at his table to enjoy not just his great company but to sample the myriad of Thai delicacies served as well. So it’s no wonder his house too earned the titles of “the talk of the town” and “the city’s most celebrated social centre”. Ensuring his legacy carries on, the Jim Thomson Restaurant & Wine Bar, located on the grounds of the Jim Thompson Museum complex, was founded almost two decades ago on the three pillars of art, food, and hospitality. Situated just in front of the entrance to the house, the restaurant too features traditional Thai architecture and antique finishings. Lime green walls are offset against the dark wooded furniture and opulent silk furnishings—all Jim Thompson Thai silk, of course—give it that final touch of elegance. Visit early for lunch, followed by a guided tour around the house, 86 | APRIL 2018

or visit the house and its tropical jungle-garden in the late afternoon and enjoy an early dinner. We opted for the latter to take advantage of the cooler afternoon temperature. The lunch and dinner menus differ slightly, with a more extensive menu being offered at dinner. The menu celebrates traditional dishes using authentic recipes, which the proud head chef Somkiat Buranachakorn—who has over 30 years of experience—never wavers from. Refreshments in the form of a Butterfly Pea & Lime Cooler (B100) were a welcome sight after an afternoon wondering through the museum. Soon, after a plate of Cho Muang (B290), steamed tapioca dumplings filled with chicken, arrived at the table. Although they can be a somewhat heavy dish, we finished off all of these lip-smacking bite-sized nibbles. Phad Thai Goong Sod (B320) followed next, with the stir-fried noodles and giant tiger prawns served the traditional way inside a pancakethin egg omelette. But it was the Seau Rong Hai (B540), Isaan-style grilled rib-eye served with traditional nam jim

jeaw made from ground roasted rice, shallots, chilli, and tamarind, that proved to be the favourite. The Australian cut of beef had a rich buttery texture and was incredibly tender. Chef Somkiat beamed with pride as he explained that this was from the marbling of the cut. Seasoned to perfection, the meat could be enjoyed with or without the sauce. After stuffing ourselves with dumplings, noodles, and beef, Tom Som Pla Ga Pong Khao (B300 single serving/B460 large portion), a traditional hot and sour tamarind soup with sea bass provided a sweet, light end to the meal. Reflecting back on the meal, the hospitality, and the restaurant’s surroundings, there was no doubt in our minds why Jim Thompson’s house was “the talk of the town”. By Kelly Harvey

Jim Thompson Restaurant Jim Thompson Museum Complex 6 Soi Kasem 2, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 9am-5pm, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 612 3601 www.jimthompsonrestaurant.com

bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Salathip

New set menu dinner offers a taste of nostalgia by the River of Kings

et against the backdrop of the Chao Phraya River waterfront at the Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok, the enchanting atmosphere of Salathip restaurant transports diners away from the hullaballoo of the city center to the golden era of Thailand’s Rattanakosin period, all the while showcasing a menu of traditional Thai delicacies. Elegant wooden pavilions enhance the wistful ambience, while spacious outdoor seating—amidst an Eden-like garden—offers a stunning view of luxurious yachts and long-tail boats passing by. The beautiful setting is further buoyed by the staff’s warm hospitality and the entertaining classical Thai dance performances. Authentic Thai cuisine is meticulously prepared and exquisitely presented here in ornate dishware, boasting a collection of time-honoured recipes, as well as a few surprises. This new set dinner is priced B2,100++ (which includes coffee and tea). Appetizers include classic Isaan snack fare served in a traditional Pinto box, namely papaya salad, spicy minced chicken with Thai herbs, pork balls, BBQ chicken, and sticky rice—all of which pair nicely together. The Satay Gai, one of my personal favourites, is juicy and perfectly pink on the inside, while the spicy Seared Sea Scallop with green mango, is crisp and refreshing. Swaddled in a soft Chinese pancake, the Goong Hom Sabai Moo Sub, or crispy prawn stuffed with minced pork, offers a hearty start as well. The soup course of Tom Yam Goong Lai Seua is savoury, but the lime juice flavour of the broth adds a zesty punch before moving on to the mains. Keeping things traditional, the Mackerel with Shrimp and Fermented Chili Paste is aromatic and balanced in terms of the four flavours Thai food traditionally exhibits: sour spicy, salty, and sweet. Sautéed in garlic and chili, the Morning Glory is perfectly crunchy, while the Thai-style Omelet Stuffed bangkok101.com

with Crabmeat—equal parts flaky and succulent—is a standout as well. I’m also pleasantly surprised to see stir-fried Maine Lobster on the menu, seasoned with sweet basil and chilies, though the result can be a little chewy for some purists. The highlight from a diverse selection of mains is the Massaman Kea, or Muslim-style curry with Australian leg of lamb. Buried beneath a blanket of yellow curry, made flavourful by the infusion of lemongrass and turmeric, the exquisitely tender chunks of lamb harmonize symbiotically with robust portions of boiled potatoes. Bangkok wouldn’t be Bangkok without a parade of desserts to round off the night. My favourite

was the Tub Tim Siam, a coconut syrup with red ruby chestnut morsels and jackfruit bobbing on top (added bonus: the coconut shell in which it’s served allows you to scrape off the rich-tasting young coconut meat). The meal ends in a sweet mélange of yet more Thai classic desserts: creamy egg custard on sticky rice, egg-yolk candy drops, and golden egg-yolk thread—a charming cap to the night. by Allison Nicole Smith

Salathip

Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Rd. Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.shangri-la.com APRIL 2018 | 87

FOOD & DRINK | review

Osha Bangkok Prepare to have your senses dazzled

t is entirely fitting that Osha Bangkok—the modishly elegant salle à manger and diploquarter darling of Thai fine dining— derives its name from the word for “delicious” used in Thai royal courts of centuries past. With an enviably tony location on Wireless Road—coupled with a stunning, deep-concept interior and a menu of modern-traditional culinary creations—this sparkling gem of an eatery offers up timeless Thai classics mingled with European culinary methods. Now in its fourth year of operations, Osha Bangkok is brandcousins with the U.S.-based chain founded in 1997, and which operates nine branches in San Francisco (the inspiration for this somewhat more upmarket local version). The toweringly high-topped main dining hall is a captivating, multi-faceted canvas of visual intrigue, with colossally scaled cultural artefacts, including gold-leaf gilding, dining nooks designed to resemble alms bowls, and a massive, custom-made chandelier in the form of a Chada—the familiar traditional Thai headdress. 3-D mapping projectors concealed in banquette housings display images of mythical scenes on the 88 | APRIL 2018

ceiling, creating an utterly unique and ever-changing ambience. Fittingly, the Osha dining experience is also one of wondrous sights, as well as intriguing aromas, with much effort put into the house’s stunning presentations—featuring dramatic dry ice clouds and aromatic infusions. Our starter of Yam Som-O Pomelo Salad (B380) arrives in a coconut husk, floating upon billows of creamy-white fog. The firm-textured citrus wedges are superbly paired with sous vide flash-cooked white prawn and gac fruit (baby jackfruit), which are reconstituted as tart, curd-like droplets. A refreshingly occidental take on this quintessential Thai soup, the Thom Ka Gai (B350) features medallions of chicken breast stuffed with chicken mousse and Kaffir lime foam. The coconut milk broth—slightly sweet and scented with coriander oil—is expertly decanted at the table, giving the diner a tantalizingly fragrant prelude to the flavours to come. Of the mains, the Beef Cheek Panang (B650), offers this succulent cut bathed in a tangy Panang sauce, with Kaffir lime essence and coconut pearls bookending the dish’s broad flavour spectrum. Likewise, an ocean-fresh

Seabass in Tamarind Sauce (B550) impresses with its tender and flaky texture, accompanied by Jerusalem artichoke, coriander purée, and crispy shallots, with a touch of bitter squash to temper the sweetness of the tamarind. The fish is served with Riceberry grains, cooked in coconut water and served in a baby coconut shell. Coconut Crème Brûlée (B350) is a must for the afters course. Dry ice is again employed, this time laced with essence of vanilla bean, while the ultra, extra, über-smooth custard is garnished with a candied hazelnut impaled on a sugar-spear. The second dessert was an absolutely cannot miss Mango Medley (B350). Served on flat stone slate, this multi-element treat features mango salsa with mulberry wine vinegar and basil, rolls of sliced mango stuffed with young coconut sorbet and delicatelace honey tuiles. by Chris Michael

Osha Restaurant Bangkok

99 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm (Fri-Sat, till midnight) Tel: 02 256 6555 www.oshabangkok.com bangkok101.com

special report | FOOD & DRINK

Gourmand Galas

Gastronauts Asia, the international community for lovers of good food and fun, held three spectacular chef events in Thailand last month

o coincide with International Women’s Day on March 8th, the Women in Gastronomy (WIG) event—the first of three chef events organized by Gastronauts Asia last month—invited guests to gather

international roster of chefs. Attending this one-of-akind, 16-hand dinner was Gert de Mangeleer of Michelin three-star Hertog Jan in Bruges, Belgium; Gaggan Anand of two-star Gaggan in Bangkok, Thailand; Josean Alija of one-star Nerua in Bilbao, Spain; Thomas & Mathias Sühring of one-star Sühring in Bangkok, Thailand; Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn of Le Du in Bangkok, Thailand; Takeshi ‘Goh’ Fukuyama of La Maison de La Nature Goh in Fukuoka, Japan; and Tim Butler and John Becker of Esenzi in Phang Nga, Thailand and Valetta, Malta.

WIG chefs panel, The Sukhothai Bangkok at The Sukhothai Bangkok for a culinary conference and 15-course lunch. Many female chefs from award-winning restaurants in Thailand, Asia, and beyond, met to discuss women in the culinary industry and to find answers, share encouragement, and celebrate the outstanding achievements of female chefs. A line-up of worldclass talent, including Margarita Forés, Cristina Bowerman, Martina Caruso, Aylin Yazıcıoğlu, and ‘The World’s Best Female Chef’ Ana Roš, joined local chefs in panel Ana Roš discussions, presentations, and an audience Q&A. There was also an opening keynote from the actress, model, and TV host Cindy Sirinya Bishop, and a standout presentation from French journalist, and President of Parabere Forum, Maria Canabal— awarded ‘Most Influential Woman in Gastronomy’ by the Woman’s Week foundation. Shortly after WIG, Esenzi restaurant, at the Iniala resort in Phuket, hosted Octopi Esenzi, an immersive dining experience with an Maria Canabal bangkok101.com

BITE chefs panel, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Following the success of both WIG and Octopi Esenzi, the Bangkok International Taste Experience (BITE) launched at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok on the 13th March. A gathering of world-class chefs and food enthusiasts from around the globe joined together for a one-off foodie extravaganza in which chef presentations and panel discussions pondered the question: “What’s Next? The Future of Global Gastronomy”. Attending BITE were international chefs Gert de Mangeleer, Josean Alija, Cristina Bowerman, Martina Caruso, and Takeshi ‘Goh’ Fukuyama, who joined forces with local talent: Gaggan Anand; Arnaud Dunand Sauthier; Thomas & Mathias Sühring; Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava and Dylan Jones; Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajorn; Tim Butler; Arnie Marcella; Fatih Tutak; John Becker; Prin Polsuk; and Arisara ‘Paper’ Chongphanitkul. After BITE’s afternoon Gert de Mangeleer forum, a boat took guests across the Chao Phraya River to the Sala Rim Naam Gardens for an exclusive champagne reception and a one-of-a-kind, 15-course, Gastronauts Dinner. by David J. Constable APRIL 2018 | 89

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread with Bharath Bhat

Modern Indian cuisine that’s not afraid to push the boundaries

y recent visit to Punjab Grill marked my second encounter with the restaurant’s Executive Chef Bharath Shridhar Bhat, and the 37 year-old’s even-keeled mannerism and softspoken tone—imagine the opposite of Gordon Ramsay—remained consistent with the first time I had met him. Not even a prestigious Iron Chef Thailand win in 2017 wavers his coolheaded modesty. But when it comes to his creative talent in the kitchen, Chef Bharath is anything but predictable. 90 | APRIL 2018

Take for instance the first entrée, Gulabi Chicken Tikka. Chef Bharath breathes life into this staple Indian dish by serving us a visually-striking portion of pink chicken breast, placed over peppercorn yoghurt sauce and adorned with saffron tuile. The pink, which is achieved with a beet root and cream cheese marinade, gives your taste buds a smoky, zesty boost. Even though Indian food has taken great strides in the last decade, it is still not perceived as a sophisticated cuisine that

will have critics and fine dining aficionados waxing lyrical. But a new breed of chefs like Bharath, are striving to revolutionize food from the motherland by modernizing traditional Indian food through taste and presentation. After a brief stint with the Taj Group as a junior chef at the company’s airline catering division, Bhat joined the renowned Grosvenor House in Dubai in 2005, working as a sous chef for their one Michelin-starred restaurant Indego by Vineet, headed by Chef Vineet Bhatia. bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

“I started my career under the Chef de Cuisine Satish Shenoy, who went on to become my mentor. He taught me the basics of modern Indian cuisine, and whatever I am today is because of him,” Bharath recalls reverentially. He continued his culinary sojourn at Amal, an upscale Indian restaurant at the Armani Hotel in Burj Khalifa in 2009, and then at Mahec at the Le Meridien Dubai, where he honed his skills; incorporating modern methods and flavours into Indian cuisine. My guest and I see this in our second entrée, the Malai Lobster, a knockout dish from his Iron Chef Thailand days. Here he melds the delicate flavours of the shellfish in a piquant marination of green chillies, fresh dill, and cheese, which he serves alongside sweet mango relish. The spicy-sweet combination packs a distinctive punch to the palate. The dish may bear some semblance to the French classic thermidor, but it is undoubtedly Desi, without being too overbearing. It’s a fine line to walk, but Chef Bharath, does it with aplomb. After 8 years in Dubai he returned to India, and eventually found himself the Senior Executive Chef for Lite Bite Foods, one of India’s largest F&B retail companies—and the owners of Punjab bangkok101.com

Grill restaurants in India, Singapore, Abu Dhabi, and at the Radisson Suites Hotel here in Bangkok. Since relocating to Bangkok, Chef Bharath has established a name for himself with the city’s Indian community, who keep coming back to try his creations. However, he also wants to bring the cuisine of his motherland to both Thais and other local residents. “When I arrived in Bangkok the trend here at the time was molecular Indian, but personally I do not like using chemicals for food. So, I stick to what I enjoy doing, which is modern Indian,” he points out. “As a chef I am trying to make a difference by bringing in dishes that are not famous and many people have not heard of, like Daab Chingri.” Daab Chingri, which translates to “coconut prawns”, is native to my own home town of Kolkata, so I couldn’t wait to try this dish. Served in a coconut, the curry is a zesty combination of tiger prawns—cooked in pungent mix of mustard seeds, coconut milk, green chillies, and coriander—served with coconut rice. The bitter yet fragrant flavours of this regional delicacy are captured beautifully by Chef Bharath, who proves that he isn’t afraid to push the boundaries of our palates.

“There is such a misconception here about what Indian food is. People generally know the generic dishes, which tend to be greasy and spiceheavy, but India is a big country. Every month we do a new special menu, and through this we get a chance to showcase different parts of India— incorporating the essence of Thailand as well with use local spices and cooking methods,” the chef goes on to say, and his Amritsari Crab Claw with Kaffir lime, lemongrass, and galangal illustrates this union perfectly. Chef Bharath was the first Indian chef to win Iron Chef Thailand—there were three others before him, in previous seasons, who all failed to leave a mark—and he considers this win as a feat not only for him, but for all those who are pushing the boundaries of Indian cuisine worldwide. “It was a prestigious moment for us all that our effort to showcase modern Indian was recognized,” he says with obvious pride. “When someone accomplishes something out of the country on an international platform, I feel the whole country feels proud of such an achievement.” interview by Reena Karim

www.punjabgrillbangkok.com APRIL 2018 | 91

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

Beef Noodle in the Baan Bu Community

his is more than just a food trip; it’s tripping back in time and deeper into one of the oldest Bangkok communities, Baan Bu, where the residents continue making their living by crafting bronzeware in the traditional, handmade, oldfashioned way. My Baan Bu highlight was having my accommodations at a homestay right inside the community—a simple wooden house surrounded by a lovely garden. The landlady was delightful, and generous, and shared everything she could make for us, including refreshing butterfly pea flower tea with lemon and honey. I felt like I was taking a trip back in time, to a place where family members still gathered together to socialize. We needed to spend the night there because we were filming the craft of making khan long hin bronzeware in this community—the one and only place in the world still practicing this ancient art. We recorded the local way of life, capturing it on film, and listened to many stories, including those of a grandmother who told of her experiences living in this area during the bombing in WWII.

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 92 | A PR I L 2018

I was already floored by the amazing discovery of this little community, but it was taken to the next level when I was introduced to one of the oldest and most delicious beef noodle soups at Kouy Tiew Nue Talad Wat Thong, or “Beef Noodle Behind Wat Thong Market”.

Aunty (Pa) Piak is the 3rd generation family member running this famed noodle shop, which has been in business for 45 years. The original soup recipe came from her grandfather-in-law, and Pa Piak carries on using this same formula—along with a little twist that she’d prefer to keep a secret. She once changed to making pork broth noodles instead of beef, but her grandfather came to her in a dream and told her to continue family legacy or quit making noodle soup. Yikes! She explained to me that her stewed beef and broth are cooked together in one pot—along with her secret combination of herbs—so the broth is aromatic and memorable. The “un”secret part is the quality of the beef. Pa Piak’s husband’s family was very strict with their food… and their women. In fact, this old Chinese

family wouldn’t give support for their women to study or have their own social life, so Pa Piak learned to master the family’s legacy by observing her late husband; learning how to choose the right meat, when to find the best quality meat at the local market, and even how to slice the meat correctly. It was lucky that we stayed overnight at the homestay, as it was just a mere four-minute walk from the shop, and the shop’s only open between 8:15am and 10am. On our visit we got the last portion of the day. However, the small noodles with fresh and stewed beef (moo sod – moo toon), and the broth remaining at the end of the pot, was so intensely delicious that I didn’t think it needed any seasoning at all. But the cook knows best and she insisted that we add a little of the vinegar that she makes from fermented sticky rice. She proved to be the master, and that half teaspoon of the soft, sour liquid elevated the broth to the next level.

My next bowl will come soon, when I return to spend another night in Baan Bu for more exploring… and noodling!

Getting there: You can reach Baan Bu by road or river. By road, you go to Soi Jaralsanitwong 32 where you will find the beautiful Wat Thong temple, and then the noodle shop is behind the old market. If travelling by river, ask the boat to stop at Wat Thong pier on Khlong Bangkok Noi, then walk to the old market. For Baan Bu Homestay call 081 926 6743 and ask to speak to Lek (but be warned that her Thai is better than her English). bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm

Pagoda Chinese Restaurant

This upscale venue serves traditional Cantonese cuisine in a spacious, contemporary setting. The menu focuses on healthy dishes, while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.marriott.com

Shang Palace

The interior is elegant, but more importantly, the food is a glowing

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reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts. 3F, Shangri-La Hotel 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun, 11am-3pm www.shangri-la.com

FRENCH

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

This Michelin-starred restaurant’s classic French haute cuisine definitely lives up to its lofty expectations, even rising

above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items well into the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com

Le Boeuf

The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: high-quality steak liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core. GF, Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair 60 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 672 12 30 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com

INDIAN Indus

An ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine, featuring a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect while

bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK dialling down the stodge and oiliness, a riff on Indian-Chinese—or Himalayan— combinations. 71, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 258 4900 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight www.indusbangkok.com

emphasis on slow food and authentic ingredients—offering superb antipasti and a selection of freshly-made pizzas. GF, The St. Regis Bangkok 159 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 207 7815 Open daily: noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm www.stregisbangkok.com/fb_jojo

ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town. Trust us! Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

INTERNATIONAL Bunker

Gaggan

A must-visit for foodies, this progressive, molecular Indian cuisine resto has been voted number one for three consecutive years—2015 to 2017—on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and now it has 2 Michelin stars to its name. Try one of the recommended tasting menus. 68/1 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 652 1700 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.eatatgaggan.com

ITALIAN Jojo

Mixing traditional with contemporary flair, this sleek restaurant promotes the very best in Italian cuisine with a keen

From the outside this three-storey concrete building may look rustic and unfinished; inside however you’ll find contemporary American cuisine with a heavy New York influence being served up. The top-notch ingredients and excellence in execution are really what mark the dishes here. 118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com

Cuisine de Garden

The Bangkok branch of this popular Chiang Mai eatery offers fine dining in a woodland decorated setting, with artfully prepared multi-course set menu dinners available. 12/6 Ekkamai Soi 2 Tel: 02 053 2059 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-11pm www.cuisinedegarden.com

Eat Me

Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently

Elements

This Michelin-starred restaurant expertly fuses Japanese and French culinary aesthetics, flavours, and precision, in a retro-futuristic space that feels like a home study but has the theatricality of a playhouse. Meanwhile, views of Bangkok’s downtown cityscape can be enjoyed from the restaurant’s open-air deck. 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 687 9000 www.okurabangkok.com

Freebird

The tagline here is ‘Modern Australian Cuisine’ which makes more sense once you sample a few of the astoundingly inventive morsels on the menu. Try the chef’s special multi-course tasting

Tataki with saffron sweetbreads and Padron pepper

LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com bangkok101.com

APRIL 2018 | 95

FOOD & DRINK | listings menu, and prepare to plunge into gastronomic bliss. 28, Sukhumvit Soi 47 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Weekend brunch: 11am-3pm Tel: 02 662 4936 www.facebook.com/freebirdbkk

also home to what has to be the coolest looking whisky room in the city. 34-36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Up & Above

MoMo Café

This 24th floor restaurant in the five star Okura Prestige Bangkok hotel boasts a brunch to rival all others—delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: noon-10:30pm Sunday Brunch: noon-3pm www.okurabangkok.com

MoMo Café

Upstairs at Mikkeller

This casual hotel restaurant has a modern design with breakfast, lunch buffet, a weekend surf & turf buffet, and all-day à la carte options. Expect fresh, seasonal ingredients and an international roster of cuisines—without inflated prices. Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista 1, Sathorn Soi 3 (Soi Suan Plu) Tel: 02 343 6789 Surf & Turf Buffet: Fri-Sun, 6pm-10pm www.facebook.com/marriottsathornvista

Park Society

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this high-altitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus. 29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 624 0000 www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Red Oven

Styled as a ‘World Food Market’, this all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. And on weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet. 7F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

With a design concept that conjures up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill kitchen at this stunning restaurant space and cocktail bar dishes up succulent steaks and other meaty morsels. It’s 96 | APRIL 2018

The second-floor, six table restaurant is simple but effective with an open kitchen and Michelin-star food wowing guests. Expect to be spoilt with a rousing and wide-ranging Tasting Menu, expertly paired with international craft beers. 26, Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2 Tel: 091 713 9034 Open: Wed-Sat, 6pm-10pm www.upstairs-restaurant.com

ITALIAN Biscotti

Serving up authentic Italian fare since the late ‘90s, this staple on the lunchtime roster for suits and their business partners has grown casual enough to warrant a visit by anyone on any day of the week. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com

Enoteca Italiana Bangkok

Rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, this place is traditional Italian to the bone. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable à la carte and degustation menus to explore. As authentic as it is delicious. 39, Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 258 4386 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.enotecabangkok.com

La Bottega di Luca

This elegant Italian eatery, overseen by the ever charming Luca Appino, serves over 15 different kinds of pasta and an

array of Italian specialties you won’t find on many other menus. 2F, Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 204 1731 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm, Mon, 5pm-11pm www.labottega.name/restaurant

La Scala

This fine dining Italian gourmet restaurant specializes in classic artistic, chef-style cooking, serving up dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavour. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: Lunch, 12pm-2:30pm, Dinner, 6:30pm-11pm www.sukhothai.com

La Dotta Pasta Bar

Bangkok’s ‘pastaphiles’ are converging in droves at this cozy, two level shophouse that specializes in delicious handmade pasta, but also uses organic imports as well. 161/6, Thong Lor Soi 9 Tel: 02 392 8688 Open daily: 11am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm www.ladotta.co

Theo Mio – Italian Kitchen

This charming, light-filled indoor restaurant—with a small outdoor seating area streetside—serves up classic Italian fare, as seen through the eyes of British celebrity restaurateur Theo Randall (his homemade pastas are especially tempting). GF, InterContinental Bangkok Hotel 973 Ploen Chit Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-11:30pm Tel: 02 656 0444 bangkok.intercontinental.com

JAPANESE Kisso

Combining a modern mastery of timehonoured customs in a stylish and convivial bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK setting, this is one of the top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. 8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 259, Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com

SPANISH/LATIN

is a classic red meat restaurant (utilizing delicious US bone-in beef too). 2F, JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi 2 Open daily: 6pm-11pm Tel: 02-656-7700 www.jwmarriottbangkok.com

THAI Bo.Lan

El Gaucho

Meat lovers will enjoy the authentic taste of Argentinian steak in all its flame-kissed goodness goodness at either outlet of this popular eatery. The meals are best rounded out with a hearty South American red wine. 8/1-7, Sukhumvit Soi 19, Tel: 02 255 2864 88/36, Sukhumvit Soi 55, Tel: 087 213 088 Open daily: 11am-late www.elgaucho.asia

El Tapeo

This three-storey restaurant, which specializes in tapas-style offerings, offers authentic Spanish tastes at very affordable prices. 159/10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 052 0656 Open: Sun, Tue-Thu, 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat, 11:30am-1am www.eltapeobkk.com

STEAK & BURGER Babette’s The Steakhouse

An intimate 1920s Chicago style eatery at award-winning Hotel Muse Bangkok, serving up the best steak in Bangkok, set against a glittering city backdrop. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open: Lunch 12pm-3pm, Dinner 6pm-12am www.babettesbangkok.com

New York Steakhouse

Looking for a traditional style steakhouse? From the spotless white tablecloths to the wooden plateholders adorned with silver handles shaped like longhorn steers, this bangkok101.com

Authentic, but daring, this is one of the top Thai restaurants in all of Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this Michelin-starred restaurant remains so popular year after year. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 53 Tel: 02 260 2962 Open: Tue-Sun, 11:30am-10:30pm www.bolan.co.th

Sala Rim Naam

Exquisite and authentic Thai cuisine served in a beautiful colonial pavilion, built in the traditional Northern Thai style. There’s enough seating to comfortably accommodate up to 170 guests in this spacious riverside setting. The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave. Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: 5pm-midnight www.mandarinoriental.com

CAFÉ

Canvas

Serving up artistic masterpieces on a plate, the visionary kitchen team here use mainly local produce and ingredients, conjuring up unique concoctions that give traditional Thai dishes a definite twist. Try one of the chef’s incredible tasting menus. 113/9-10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 099 614 1158 Open: Tue-Thu, Sun, 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sat, 6pm-12:30am www.canvasbangkok.com

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Saffron Sky Garden

This “garden in the sky” offers stunning vistas overlooking almost all angles of Bangkok. Large bed-like grey lounge chairs adorned with bright coloured pillows provide the perfect spot to lay back and unwind while sampling Thai tapas menu items from the hotel’s award-winning Saffron restaurant. 52F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 5pm-1am Tel: 02 679 1200 www.banyantree.com/bangkok

Not Just Another Cup

This cozy cafe, suitable for early birds, serves a variety of brunch menus, while the drink menu covers everything from coffee to cold-pressed juices and infused water. 75/1, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 635 3464 Open daily: 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup

VEGETARIAN Broccoli Revolution

This veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Rd (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 Facebook: Broccoli Revolution

Veganerie Concept

The modern-rustic interior is flooded with natural light, and the fare—from tantalizing dairy-free bakery desserts to vegan appetizers and main courses—is pretty “natural” as well. 35/2 Soi Methiniwet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) Tel: 02 258 8489 Open: Fri-Wed, 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/veganbakerybangkok APRIL 2018 | 97

Photos by Jack Sonsiri Kitisak

Poolside views and down-to-earth prices at Cloud 9

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE we’ve looked at clouds from both sides now… If you’re still missing the now long-gone Cloud 47, Silom’s neighbourhood favourite nofrills rooftop bar, it’s been reborn as CLOUD 9, located within the HAVEN’T MET HOTEL (188/1 Soi Pipat, Silom 2). This new incarnation is even more down-to-earth—as it’s only on the 9th floor—but it still delivers a comfortably casual poolside drink spot that’s ideal for after work tippling with great city views, as the tables are set along the terrace’s edge. Enjoy a choice of creative cocktails, draft ales, bubblies, and fine wines, accompanied by tasty Thai and international fusion fare, and a live DJ to put you in the groove. www.hotel-hm.com/food/cloud-9

bombastic beers Beer purists beware… the newly opened WHERE IS MY BEER? (26, Sukhumvit Soi 89) specializes in beer cocktails—an idea that may sound bizarre at first, but gets better with each sip. Signature “beertails” include the Don’t Tell Your Mum (B250), which combines Scotch whisky, passion fruit and Thai basil, and The Dirty Flower (B250), with Heferweizen, grapefruit, elderflower, and gin. The bar is located within stumbling distance of the On Nut BTS station, and the full menu includes an array of fusion food bar snacks, as well as select imported and Thai craft beers. www.facebook.com/wismbkk

new and noted on the barfly radar Housed within the popular faux-farmhouse Euro-Mediterranean restaurant HARVEST (24/1 Sukhumvit Soi 31) is a recently opened, low-lit craft cocktail and live music jazz bar named THE WOODSHED. The ambience is suitably country rustic, but the skilled mixologist, and his unconventional creations, are very au courant. Meanwhile, by the time you read this the CACTUS bar will have opened on the 4th floor of the building which also houses CAGETTE CANTEEN & DELI (15 Yenakart Rd). Decorated with plenty of thorny cacti, the concept is described by the owners as offering a laid-back and sexy approach to drinking and entertaining, and a tribute to the “Californian way of living”. www.harvestbkk.com • www.facebook.com/cactusbangkok

house party hijinks If you’re a follower of the local indie live music scene, and it’s been a while since you visited the RCA entertainment complex (Rama 9 Rd), then let the recent opening of NOMA tempt you to return. This new venue occupies the space left vacant by the sorely missed COSMIC CAFÉ, which closed back in 2014. The four-letter moniker of the new venue is an acronym for “Now Our Mother’s Angry”, referring to the bar’s overall theme—the idea that the kids are hosting a party at the house while their mother is gone. At any rate, expect boozy drinks, in mismatched glassware, accompanied by cutting edge local bands and a suitably grungey atmosphere. www.facebook.com/nomabkk

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NIGHTLIFE | review

Beer Republic

Over 70 beers under one roof (and excellent pub grub as well)

n a market overshadowed by Singha and Chang, the recently opened Beer Republic is offering Bangkok drinkers a slew of national and international beers, set within a warehouse-style space located on the ground floor of the Holiday Inn Hotel at Chidlom. Upon entering, I immediately have a sense of the familiar; with big, flashy TV screens running football highlights and reliving the weekend’s best rugby plays. Comfy seating entices visitors to stay (I did), spectate (I did), and drink (of course). Adjacent to the bar, a deep-set restaurant rolls away into the distance; a vast space of scattered chairs and booth seating. There is also an extensive bar promoting unrecognizable pumps, however, consulting the beer menu reveals a litany of Belgian, German, Danish, and British usual suspects—Stella, Franziskaner Hefe-Weissbier, Carlsberg, and BrewDog. In all, there is a selection of over 70 beers, catering to everyone from the “rookie to the connoisseur.” For a genuinely productive and scholastic experience, I sample the recommended beer flight (B500), which consists of a colourful mingle

100 | A PRIL 2018

of six yellow-to-auburn-to-dark ales, and an education in Thai craft breweries. Yes, it’s a movement here, too! But here’s the interesting thing: Thai-brewed craft beers are, in fact, not brewed or bottled in Thailand at all—due to legal barriers. Of the six beer flight selections sampled I go on to order two as full bottles. The clean and refreshing Mahanakhon White Ale (B230) from the Mahanakhon Microbrewery in Bangkok, is actually brewed by Cavalier Brewery in Victoria, Australia. Likewise, the Peak-a-Brew IPA (B300), a hazy darkish amber IPA that’s up there with the very best, is marketed by Bangkok Bootleg Brothers Brewing but is actually brewed in Holgate Brewhouse, also in Victoria, Australia. Like the beer, food is a similar mingle of Thai and European classics with pairings available upon request. It’s pub grub, there’s no escaping that, but it’s mightily impressive stuff, with Sloane’s Barbecued Sausage Platter (B350) using locally sourced porkers from artisan butcher Sloane’s, while the Crispy Pork Knuckle (B380) is as dense as a heavyweight’s fist and served in true Munich beer

hall-style, and dips and condiments all kitchen-fresh, made daily. But it’s the deliciously-sticky Pork Ribs (half B220/whole B400) that is the standout. Slow-cooked and lathered in a thick sauce, the meat is soft on the fork and falls from the bone. But nor does the kitchen stray too far from local favourites, offering an expansive selection of Thai classics, with the likes of Gai Khua Takrai (B240), and Som Tam (B190) made fresh. A final and indulgent order of a Chocolate Chip Cookie on Skillet (B200) arrives warm and doughy throughout, with a generous dollop of vanilla ice cream. I spoon in the melting mix while sinking my pint of Mahanakhon and listening to soul revival movement Ample Soul (there’s live music every night of the week, with electric sets from local bands). by David J. Constable

Beer Republic

GF, Holiday Inn Bangkok 971 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0080 Open daily: 11:30am-1am www.beerrepublicbangkok.com bangkok101.com

special report | NIGHTLIFE

Of Booze & Brews The 2nd edition of The Bar Awards Bangkok brought with it several fun parties, but few surprises By Craig Sauers

In the winner's circle

ollowing three successful editions in Singapore and one in Hong Kong, the Bar Awards finally arrived in Bangkok last year. That first edition gave Bangkok’s still burgeoning bar industry, as well as its general drinking public, a muchneeded measuring stick to gauge the quality and consistency of the city’s favourite watering holes. This year, the Bar Awards returned to Bangkok, but with a little more buzz behind them. Put on by industry magazine DRiNK, the awards feature a unique voting scheme that ensures the public has a voice in the judging. A lead panel of 12 industry insiders first select a list of relevant categories, and the public then nominate their favourite venues. The list gets whittled down to a top 10 in each category by a broader panel of 44 F&B insiders. Finally, the lead panel narrows the selections to a top four, before the final vote. The winners of this 2nd edition were announced at a by-invite-only party held at the end of February at Zest, at the Westin Grande Sukhumvit hotel. The big winner? Rabbit Hole. bangkok101.com

Rabbit Hole wins big

This Thong Lor speakeasy had been red hot throughout 2017. Despite stiff competition its ‘Bar of the Year’ win came as little surprise. Head bartender Suwincha ‘Chacha’ Singsuwan, last year’s ‘Bartender of the Year’, had done a number of guest spots at some of Asia’s best bars last year. At the same time, top bartenders from around the region regularly dropped in at Rabbit Hole. Meanwhile, the bar was evidently nurturing new talent of its own, and at the 2018 awards Noppasate ‘Depp’ Hirunwathit won in the ‘Rising Star’ category, which recognizes the top bartending talent born after January 1, 1990 (it’s okay to feel old when you read that line). It wasn’t all about Rabbit Hole, though. Heavyweight contenders Bamboo Bar and Eat Me each walked away with two pieces of hardware, and craft beer institution Mikkeller Bangkok took home ‘Best Beer Bar’ for the 2nd year in a row. Newcomers got in on the action as well. Sathorn’s La Cosa Nostra was named ‘Best Wine Bar’, and #FindTheLockerRoom, the relocated craft cocktail joint run by a

five-strong team of bartending bigwigs from across Asia, was named ‘Best New Bar’. The awards also honoured nightlife luminary David Jacobson, as the owner of the now-legendary Smalls took home the award for the ‘Best Hospitality Ambassador’. Some big names went home without a win. That includes Niks Anuman-Rajadhon, who runs Teens of Thailand and the new Asia Today bar (which might notch a win or two in 2019), as well as the esteemed teams behind Q&A, Tropic City, and Bunker. But they weren’t left out in the cold. In the lead-up to the awards, the best and brightest in Bangkok’s bar world came together for a week of talks and late-night parties, including: nightcaps at Backstage, an opening party at Rabbit Hole, and, probably the only event relevant to anyone outside of the bar industry, a full-day cocktail blow-out at Flow House. This year, the Bar Awards Bangkok offered something for everyone. For a full list of this year's winners, visit: www.drinkmagazine.asia/news A PRIL 2018 | 101

NIGHTLIFE | listings

BAR Evil Man Blues

This retro cocktail bar promises only top-shelf spirits, housemade mixers, and fresh garnishes. Meanwhile, live music by renowned jazz musicians creates a close-knit vibe. GF, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

FooJohn Building

With four distinct venues within one building—from French bistro to US-style smokehouse—this hip Chinatown hotspot has quickly joined the ranks of go-to destinations for night owls and creative types alike. 831 Charoen Krung Rd., Soi 31 Open: Wed-Sun, 7pm-midnight Tel: 085 527 3511 www.facebook.com/foojohnbkk

Highball Bangkok

Run by an all-girl crew, this cozy bar specializes in highball bourbon-based cocktails, with knowledgeable female mixologists on hand to both impress and educate. Destined to become a neighbourhood favourite. GF, Sasha’s Hotel Uno, Sukhumvit Soi 19 Open daily: 6am-1am Tel: 064 429 8624 www.fb.com/highballbkk

J. Boroski Mixology

A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com

Inblu Bar

Located on the hotel’s lobby level, this 102 | A PRIL 2018

stylish drink spot offers an extensive selection of beers, whiskies, cocktails, and wines, plus tasty nibbles and great live music seven days a week. Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.pullmanbankokgrandesukhumvit.com

decades. It’s a place that just begs you to let your hair down and have fun. 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-midnight; closed for dinner on Sundays Tel: 02 476 0022 bangkok-riverside.anantara.com

Oskar Bistro

This low-ceilinged club is perhaps more brasserie than bistro, but it’s always popular with people coming for pre-club drinks and mingling. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 255 3377 Open daily: 4pm-2am (kitchen till 11:30pm) www.oskar-bistro.com

Rarb

Ensconced in a hipster-chic, glassencased nook, this Old Town craft cocktails mecca features a rotating menu of daily drink specials and a mad scientist barman bent on experimentation, and home brewing his own spirits. 47/1 Phra Arthit Rd. Tel: 081 406 3773 Open: Tue-Sun, 5pm-midnight instagram.com/rarbbyescapade

Thaipioka

This venue hints at speakeasy culture— guests enter through an unmarked door in the Salil Hotel—but once inside you will have entered what many call one of the city’s best cocktail spots, complete with a long candlelit wooden bar and music the is soft enough to allow for conversation. 44/7, Thong Lor Soi 1 (Salil Hotel) Tel: 087 713 6943 Open daily: 7pm till late www.facebook.com/thaipiokabkk

Touché Hombre

This hugely popular Mexican bar and restaurant offers curious customers a chance to sample the finest mezcals and top-end tequilas, as well as superb Mexican-inspired dishes. 2F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7760 Open daily: 6pm-1am (Fri-Sat till 2am) www.touchehombre.com

Trader Vic’s

The Bangkok branch of the world’s favourite Tiki Bar has been serving up potent tropical concoctions—with amazing riverside views—for over two

Vogue Lounge

This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and former chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks. MahaNakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 001 0697 Open daily: 10am-late www.voguelounge.com

Wishbeer Home Bar

With the help of crowdfunding through Facebook ads, Jerome Le Louer turned Wishbeer from a beer home delivery service, into a bricks and mortar store, and finally into three Bangkok drink spots offering an amazing selection of imported craft beers, ciders, and more. Sukhumvit Soi 67, Tel: 02 392 1403 The Street Ratchada mall, Tel: 02 121 1960 91, Sukhumvit Soi 57, Tel: 02 392 1403 www.wishbeerhomebar.com

ROOFTOP SKY BAR Aire Bar

Offering a variety of wines, beers, and artisanal cocktails, with delicious snacks to boot. Plus, one of the best views of the city (day and night). A laid-back bar perfect for unwinding… cocktail in hand. 28F, Hyatt Place Sukhumvit Bangkok 22/5, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Open: Mon-Thu, 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 5pm1am; Sun, 3pm-11pm bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE Tel: 02-055-1234 www.facebook.com/airebarbangkok

amBar

Located on the 8th floor rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, this pool bar offers an inviting and relaxed lounge atmosphere. 8F, Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3288 Open daily: 4pm-midnight www.ambarbangkok.com

32F, Compass Skyview Hotel, 12, Sukhumvit Soi 24, Tel: 02 011 1133 www.facebook.com/characterbar

Cielo Sky Bar

A rooftop bar, with a business-casual ambiance and unbeatable views of Bangkok, serving a wide-ranging and impressive list of cocktails at fair prices. 46F, Sky Walk Condominium Sukhumvit Soi 69 Tel: 02 348 9100 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.cieloskybar.com

CRU Champagne Bar

Attitude

This sky-high drinking and dining spot boasts an inventive cocktail menu, delicious tapas-sized nibbles, and Instagram-worthy desserts, but the view overlooking the river is what really commands the attention here. 26F, Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 431 9100 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am minorhotels.com/en/avani/riverside-bangkok

Char

Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Character Whisky & Cigar Bar

Both outlets of this cozy and comfortable smoker’s lounge—one of which doubles as a skybar—serve some of the rarest and finest single malt whiskies from Scotland (and beyond), as well as housing humidors stocked with premium handmade cigars from Cuba, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic, and more. Courtyard at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155 Rajadamri Rd, Tel: 02 254 4726 bangkok101.com

This high altitude hot spot is own by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar

Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm-7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit 2, Sukhumvit Soi 57 Open daily: 5pm-2am Tel: 02 797 0000 www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open Daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Sky On 20

At this stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it

a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok. Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok

The Speakeasy

One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts, wines at solid prices, and cocktails (some crafted from homemade vodka infusions). 24/25F, Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.hotelmusebangkok.com

Zoom Sky Bar & Restaurant

Meet, sip, and dine overlooking the city at this well-designed venue, offering innovative culinary experiences and 360° cityscape views. 40F, Anantara Sathorn Hotel Bangkok 36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd. Tel: 02 210 9000 Open daily: 6pm-1am bangkok-sathorn.anantara.com

CLUB Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best sound systems. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com

Cé La Vi

One of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, this is a vast and glittering club with A PRIL 2018 | 103

NIGHTLIFE | listings skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. 39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com

The Firm

Within this upscale five-storey lounge, nightclub, and all-round watering hole, the 1st and 2nd floors are home to a restaurant and bar, offering continental pan-Pacific fare, while the 3rd floor—and the VIP access 4th and 5th floors—are all about the beat, with hip hop DJs performing regularly and mixologists performing their magic behind the bar. 10/4, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open daily: 9pm-2am Tel: 065 880 0333 www.thefirmbangkok.com

offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours, and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton, 4, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

The Londoner

It’s the only purpose-built British pub in Bangkok, and it’s also the oldest microbrewery in the city (it first opened in 1997, and was originally located on Sukhumvit Soi 33). In its current location the building itself is new, but once you enter the doors you feel as though you are in an old style ‘local’. 1178 Pattanakarn Rd. Tel: 02 022 8025 Open daily: Mon-Sat, 11am-midnight, Sun, 9am-midnight www.the-londoner.com

The Royal Oak

Narz

Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance crowd moving for over two decades with their wild party atmosphere. Perfect for groups who want to make it their playground for the night. 112, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 4805 Open daily: 9pm-3am www.narzclubbangkok.net

Sing Sing Theater

Not entirely a club, nor exactly a bar in the truest sense, this eclectic performance venue transcends the limitations of conventional nightlife vocabulary. Sukhumvit Soi 45 Tel: 097 285 6888 Open: Tue-Sun, 8pm-2am www.facebook.com/singsingtheater

PUBS The Drunken Leprechaun

This heavily Irish-themed establishment 104 | A PRIL 2018

An old British enclave serving up delicious food in substantial portions, draft beer, and weekly pub quizzes. There’s even a comedy club upstairs which is open every Friday. 595/10, Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 Tel: 02 662 1652 Open daily: 10am-1am www.royaloakthailand.com

LIVE MUSIC Black Cabin

Half the space at Wild & Co. restaurant is given over to this brick-walled pub which eschews the mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists. Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/blackcabinbar

Brown Sugar

Bangkok’s oldest, coziest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378

Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com

Maggie Choo's

Maggie Choo’s

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. GF, Hotel Novotel Fenix 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/maggiechoos

Saxophone

A must-visit live music joint, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every single night of the week. 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 246 5472 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.saxophonepub.com

SpeakerBox

The city’s latest bar to enjoy local and rotating imported craft beers as well as some cool cocktails and snacks while kicking back and checking out some of Bangkok’s best local indie bands and artists at this compact, casual semi-open air venue. Ratchada Train Market (Esplanade Ratchada) Tel: 084 662 6642 Open: Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-2am www.facebook.com/speakerboxbkk

The Zuk Bar

An ideal place for aperitifs or after dinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas menu items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sukhothai.com bangkok101.com

Photo by Bruce Scott

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

Prasat Sanphet Palace

id you know that if you’re interested in Thai history and heritage you can visit all of the country’s most famous landmarks in a single day at Muang Boran? This elaborate educational theme park, also known as The Ancient City, was conceived by the late Lek Viriyaphant, a successful businessman who initially wanted to build a golf course in the shape of a map of Thailand with miniatures of famed Thai sites placed at certain spots along the course. However, saddened by the decay of many ancient sites within Thailand, he changed his mind and instead created an open-air museum dedicated to the extraordinary variety of Thailand’s architectural landmarks. Construction on the park began in 1963 and was completed in 1972, making Muang Boran—located in Samut Prakan province, about 33 km southeast of central Bangkok—the oldest theme park in Thailand. Illustrious monuments replicated here include: Nakhon Si Thammarat’s famed Phra Maha That stupa; the seated Buddha of Sukhothai; the seven-spired

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Chedi Chet Yod in Chiang Mai; the Chedi of Cham Thewi in Lamphun; and the graceful Khmer style Prang of Phimai sanctuary tower. And on a more contemporary note, the park’s charming Floating Market is surrounded by traditional Thai wooden houses—many of them authentic properties saved from destruction—as well as a 100-year-old traditional Thai mosque. However, for many visitors the park’s pièce de résistance is the Prasat Sanphet Palace of Ayutthaya. The real palace, built back in the middle of the 15th century, is now a historic ruin but the structure here is a faithful and skillfully executed reconstruction. The park is open daily, and adult admission is B350 for Thais, B600 for non-Thais (with reduced rates for children). Visit: www.ancientcitygroup.net NOTE: The park's founder, Khun Lek Viriyaphant, is also the visionary behind the Erawan Museum in Samut Prakan, and The Sanctuary of Truth in Pattaya (see our photo feature starting on page 64).

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