Bangkok101 Magazine June2018 by Talisman Media

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Publisher’s Letter

ome October, Bangkok will stage its very first Art Biennale, complete with art world heavyweights like Japan’s Yayoi Kusama taking part (see pg. 16). It’s a major feat for a city that 20 years ago barely had anything even resembling a contemporary art museum (see pg. 15). However, it was almost inevitable that the art scene in this city—and country, in fact—would one day take off, as art is an integral part of the colourful fabric of everyday life in Thailand. It’s hard to stay in Bangkok for any length of time and not be impressed by artistically stunning landmarks such as the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn), which are jaw-dropping and eyepopping at the same time. Meanwhile, amazing young artists are emerging all the time here—whether from the gallery scene, the street art graffiti scene, or both (see pg. 26). Of course, if you can’t wait till the October Biennale you’re in luck because there are plenty of amazing art shows and art-centric events going on this month—the highlight being the Hotel Art Fair Bangkok, which takes over several floors of the visually stunning 137 Pillars hotel (see pg. 76). And if you’re new to the whole art scene, the Bangkok Art Map (www.facebook.com/ bangkokartmap) does a great job of providing detailed information about art events and happenings across the city. In a different vein, but in a similar artistic direction, our June travel feature (starting on pg. 44) focuses on Ayutthaya and Sukhothai—a pair of ancient Siamese capitals that have both been declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites due to the artistic importance of the historic ruins that remain there for all to see. All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101. Enjoy. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence info@talisman.asia. Publisher

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

JUNE 2018 | 5

CONTENTS 23

CITY PULSE 10

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

My Bangkok Mike Boonmahanark, co-founder of Sathorn 11 Art Space

Best of BKK The upcoming 2018 Bangkok Art Biennale proves that the artistic scene in Bangkok is alive and well, with galleries full of eye-popping sculptures and paintings, and shops selling antiques, artefacts, and collectibles.

Out & About Creativity knows no bounds at ChangChui Art Market

Made in Thailand Meet five of Bangkok’s most instantly recognizable visual artists

Property Profile Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park

TRAVEL

SNAPSHOTS 34

Now New Next Artist Myrtille Tibayrenc: A truly rare bird indeed

Bizarre Thailand Thai funeral rites in rural Isaan

Joe’s Bangkok The Museum of Journalism in Thailand

Very Thai Shops on wheels keep the economy moving – Part 2

42 Heritage Ghosts and Hells: The Underworld in Asian Art

On the cover

Entitled ‘Position’, this exquisitely detailed oil on canvas painting (2017, 150 x 120 cm) is just one of these many captivating works of art that have sprung forth from the creative mind of Thai artist Sajja Sajjakul. Meet Sajja, and a myriad of other artistic talents we profile, in this month’s special Art Issue feature (starting on pg. 14).

Ayutthaya 101 In this special 14-page travel destination feature we look at Ayutthaya—an ancient capital and modern metropolis rolled into one

See & Do Ayutthaya The Ayutthaya Historical Park; Modern museums

Focus on Ayutthaya Annual Muay Thai festival honours the Kingdom’s national sport

Focus on Bang Pa-In A royal riverside palace with a romantic backstory

Sukhothai 101 In this special 10-page travel destination feature we look at Sukhothai—the birthplace of Siamese culture

See & Do Sukhothai The Sukhothai Historical Park; Si Satchanalai Historical Park

Live Like a Local Homestay projects in Sukhothai offer insights into village life

Made in Thailand Sukhothai Noodles: one province’s culinary claim to fame

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | JUNE 2018

bangkok101.com

CONTENTS 78

ART & CULTURE 70

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

Museum Spotlight The Silpa Bhirasri Memorial Museum

Arts Event The 5th edition of the Hotel Art Fair Bangkok

Cinema Scope This month’s film news and screenings

Photo Feature The winners of the 2018 White Elephant Art Awards

102

FOOD & DRINK 84

Food & Drink Updates

Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners

Chew On This Food editor David J. Constable’s take on Bangkok’s culinary chaos

88 Reviews Espresso; Seasonal Tastes; Latest Recipe; Pooch Cafe 92

Breaking Bread with Chef Dan Bark from Upstairs at Mikkeller

Eat Like Nym Nam Heng Lee coffee shop

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE 100

Nightlife Updates

102

Bar Reviews Asia’s 50 Best Bars awards; Wine news and tastings

106

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

SIGNING OFF 110

Did You Know?... Visiting Khlong Bang Luang Artists Village is like stepping back in time

ART DIRECTOR

GENERAL MANAGER

Narong Srisaiya

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Thanakrit Skulchartchai

Roj Ruangkereunya SENIOR SALES MANAGER

PUBLISHER

STRATEGISTS

Mason Florence

Sarinya Chandranipapong

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

SALES MANAGER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond

SALES EXECUTIVE

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Parinya Krit-Hat

Jim Algie, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwell-Smith, Jella Erhard, Chris Michael, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Lekha Shankar, Tom Vitayakul

MANAGING EDITOR

Bruce Scott EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings

Ornuma Promsrikaew Songkwan Udomdech DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Chakkrit Rattanapan EVENT & SPECIAL PROJECTS

FOOD EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING

David J. Constable

Wasin Banjerdtanakul

PHOTOGRAPHERS

EVENT COORDINATOR

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Jella Erhard, Giuseppe Farnizza, John Hennequin, Julia Offenberger

Panisara Bunnag

Anansit Sangsawang

PUBLISHED BY

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CITY PULSE | metro beat

JUNE’S HOTTEST TICKETS June 12

LIVE THEATRE June 7-16

Director Loni Berry presents his adaptation of Oscar Wilde’s novel The Portrait of Dorian Gray at Culture Collective Studio (3F, Chatrium Residence, 26/276 Charoenkrung Soi 70). Set in a cabaret, audiences can watch the story of the man who remains young and handsome forever, as Keithen Carter croons jazz standards. The play runs Thursday to Saturday (June 7–9, and 14-16) at 8pm, and admission is B1,000, which includes one free cocktail. In addition, on Sunday June 17th, from 4pm till 7pm, experience Juneteenth, the oldest celebration commemorating the true ending of slavery in the USA. Tickets are B500 (cash bar and buffet) and entertainment includes music, film, dance, and poetry. www.culture-collective.com

Oscar Wilde

ART EVENT June 8-10

Anyone who attended last year’s Hotel Art Fair at the Volve Hotel will no doubt be looking forward to this year’s edition of this always eye-popping event. This year the hotel venue will be the beautiful 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok (59/1, Sukhumvit Soi 39). For more information, see our feature on page 76. 10 | JUNE 2018

Mr. Big is an American hard rock supergroup formed back in 1988. The band was originally composed of Eric Martin (vocals), Paul Gilbert (guitar), Billy Sheehan (bass), and Pat Torpey (drums)—the latter now deceased. They’ve released nine studio albums, the latest being 2017’s Defying Gravity, which features current drummer Matt Starr. The group will take the stage at the GMM Live House (8F, CentralWorld) at 8:30pm, and tickets are B2,000 and B3,000. www.thaiticketmajor.com

June 14-24

Don’t miss the return of Cirque Du Soleil as they bring their spectacular Toruk The First Flight show to Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani) for an 11-day run and a total of 16 individual performances. This internationally renowned Canadian circus troupe has been captivating audiences around the globe with their out-of-this-world blend of acrobatics, music and costumes, and this most recent show is inspired by the 2009 film Avatar. Ticket range in price from B1,000 to B4,000, but times vary— with evening, matinee, and late-afternoon shows scheduled on different days. www.thaiticketmajor.com

June 16

Devendra Banhart is a VenezuelanAmerican singer-songwriter and visual artist with a devoted cult following and nine albums under his belt. This month he’ll be doing an intimate solo gig—presented by HYHBkk Live!—at the Phornprapha Auditorium (Siam Motors Bldg, Rama 1 Rd) starting at 7:30pm. Tickets are B1,500 each, and only 350 tickets will be sold. www.ticketmelon.com

June 20

From Canada comes the Montrealbased electronic art-rock group Suuns, who will be bringing their mesmerizing music and lightshow spectacular to the Rockademy Thailand (120/8 Sukhumvit Soi 26). The band’s ability to mix and match different instruments, and overlay them with electronic beats, makes their music both innovative and atypical. The show starts at 8pm, and tickets are B1,300. www.ticketmelon.com bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

THERE’S MAGIC IN THE AIR June 9

Mind-bending master magician Paul Vu is coming to the M Theatre (2884/2, New Petchaburi Rd) for one night only. This 22-year-old Vietnamese-American has wowed audiences around the world—in person and online—with his implausible illusions. However, he’s also a very active social media entrepreneur, with millions of fan followers tuning in to watch his videos that feature both outrageous tricks and instructional tips for budding magicians. www.ticketmelon.com

ITALIAN FESTIVAL IN THAILAND June 2

The Bangkok Music Society Choir presents I Grandi Maestri: A Walk Through the Centuries of Italian Composers at the Music Hall, Chulalongkorn University (254 Phayathai Rd). Accompanied by the Immanuel String Orchestra, the 60-person choir will perform selections from composers Vivaldi, Puccini, and Nabucco. Admission is free and the concert starts at 7pm.

June 10

The virtuoso classical guitarist Antonio Fruscella will perform a solo show at the Sala Sudasiri Sobha (Lat Phrao 41 Alley, Lane 7-2). After obtaining his classical guitar diploma in 1999, Fruscella has gone on to win many prizes in both Italian national and international competitions. The concert begins at 4pm, and admission is free.

June 17

Internationally renowned flautist Luisa Sello (right), one of the most applauded contemporary interpreters of Italian music, presents ‘Sequences Reflected’, an afternoon concert at the Sala Sudasiri Sobha (Lat Phrao 41 Alley, Lane 7-2). Admission is free, and the concert begins at 4pm.

June 21-22

On June 21st the Lucia Ianniello & Paolo Tombolesi Duo present a jazz program dedicated to Italian women composers of history, at 7pm at the Music Hall, Chulalongkorn University (254 Phayathai Rd). The duo also perform at The Living Room Jazz Bar, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit (250 Sukhumvit Rd) at 8.30pm on the 22nd.

June 26

Celebrate the 150th anniversary of the passing of legendary composer Gioachino Rossini at the Main Hall of the Thailand Cultural Centre (14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd). Italian opera singers will perform some of the composers’ most famous pieces, together with the Royal Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, in a free concert that begins at 7:30pm. For more information about the ongoing Italian Festival in Thailand 2018, visit the website at: www.ambbangkok.esteri.it bangkok101.com

INDIE FROM ASIA June 9

South Korean indie acoustic pop band Standing Egg consists of three members—Egg 1, Egg 2, and Egg 3—who produce and compose the music while various guest indie artists provide vocals. This month the band will be appearing live at Voice Space (197 BBD Building, Viphavadi Rangsit Rd), as part of their Dramatic Tour 2018. Doors open at 6pm and tickets are B1,500. www.seenscenespace.com

June 24

Although the cute name suggests otherwise, the Siamese Cats (pictured above) are actually an indie rock band from Tokyo, formed back in 2007, who have their own unique sound and style that truly sets them apart. They’ll be performing at Play Yard by Studio Bar (Lat Phrao 8 Alley, Lane 3), and the evening’s entertainment runs from 7pm till midnight—with local groups Seal Pillow and Costlywood also on the bill. Tickets are B500 at the door. www.ticketmelon.com

THE CLASSICS June 6-7

The acclaimed London Symphony Orchestra will be gracing the stage at Prince Mahidol Hall, Mahidol University (Salaya, Nakornpatom), in a performance led by conductor Gianandrea Noseda, with pianist Yefim Bronfman. The first concert will include music from Ravel, Beethoven, and Mussorgsky, while the second show features Dvořák, Liszt, and Shostakovich. Ticket prices range from B3,000 to B20,000, and the concerts will begin each evening promptly at 7pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com JUNE 2018 | 11

CITY PULSE | my bangkok

Mike Boonmahanark

Co-founder of Sathorn 11 Art Space—gallery, bar, and pizza joint all in one

lthough born in Bangkok, Mike Boonmahanark moved to Texas when he was still in elementary school. He graduated from University of Texas, in Austin, with double major in graphic design and fine art. Before returning to Thailand he worked in advertising, and with many US galleries as a consultant and art dealer. When (and why) did you and partner Marc Greene decide to open Sathorn 11 Art Space? We opened it in 2015. Marc’s mission and vision was to create a space that would support Thai artists and the art community, with programs such as housing resident artists. I loved Marc’s vision and so I became the co-founder. We selected Sathorn Soi 11 because we love the area, which is close to downtown yet has the vibe of SoHo in New York. How did you come up with the idea of incorporating all-night pizza delivery into the business model? Gallery Pizza was a wild crazy idea, that came from Marc and Shane (Marc’s son), to deliver good Italian pizza to night clubbers and night owls. And as a social enterprise it gives starving artists a place to work on their art and make some side money by working as cooks, drivers, etc. Our first resident artist, Sarawut Thaichuai, is now working in Malaysia, and we have a current resident group show this month. Why do your art shows rotate so frequently? We used to have about one show a month, now we usually have two. We noticed that the audience and the art community only come to view the show on the opening day, and during the first week. After that the public lost interest. Our goal is to keep the public and art community interested, so we have to keep the gallery exciting

12 | JUNE 2018

by presenting new shows every few weeks. I mainly focus on the talent and the uniqueness of the artist when making my selections. Who are some of your favourite locally-based Thai artists? There are many amazing artists in Thailand… too many to list here. I think Kannika Jansuwan is a wonderful, fresh talent, and she’ll be showing with us in June. I also like the vibe of the contemporary street artists and postmodern artists in Thailand, such as Alex Face, Mue Bon, Jeaks, Basid, Anchalee Arayapongpanich, Jung Narate, and many others, who incorporate “child-like” cartoon aspects in their work. Which are some of your favourite urban art spaces? I like MOCA and BACC because these two museums support Thai contemporary artists in a huge way! That’s something that Thailand didn’t have about 20 years ago. What are the pros and cons of the contemporary Thai art scene? I think Thai artists are some of the best people ever! Thai people are already sweet and polite, and so easy

to work with, but Thai artists are also not as egocentric as in the West, so group exhibitions are easier. And senior artists help out young artists and welcome giving them exposure. Coming from the West, I was very surprised that a famous artist such as Prateep Kochabua would work with my (relatively inexperienced) resident artist or intern. As for media, Fine Art magazine, Robb Report, and Bangkok Art Map also contribute so much to provide information to both the art community and general public. However, there are negative aspects too. The state censorship means personal freedom of expression and speech is still limited in Thailand. I feel this limits the artist’s creativity and suffocates the art community overall. You recently added a fully functional bar to the gallery. Yes, Bar 11—that’s the official name— came to be because so many people love to enjoy art and drinks, so it was a match made in heaven. The bar has helped increase the amount of people who love both art and nightlife. If you want to relax and chill over a few glasses of wine, in a chic and cultured ambiance, you’ll love it. What does the future hold? 2018 is going to be an exciting year. We’re expanding our kitchen, with Gallery Pizza relocating to a new location, and are bringing in a new Michelin-star menu, drink list, and new décor. Around November, in a partnership with the French Embassy, we’re doing a street art project with top Thai artists—Gong, P7, Yuree Kensaku, and many others—as well as French artists such as Miss.Tic, and some German artists too. We’re also talking about Sathorn 11 hosting a block party, a street art tour by riverboat, and more. interview by Bruce Scott www.facebook.com/sathorn11artspace bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Art For Art’s Sake

As gallery goers know, Bangkok’s visual art scene is thriving, despite the pressures of censorship

ver the past decade the art scene in Bangkok has grown considerably, and in its wake a slew of interesting venues have opened. In the past six months or so several new galleries have entered the fray, including Maison Close and Galerie Adler in the Charoen Krung Creative District, and Galerie Oasis, an art house and art house cinema in one (on Sukhumvit Soi 43). Add that to the already huge number of established galleries in this town and you’ve got yourself a lot of visual stimulation. But formal (or informal) galleries are not the only place in the city to see art. The new Leica store in Gaysorn Plaza has its own photo gallery—appropriately called the Leica Gallery Bangkok—and vegetarian restaurant Broccoli Revolution on Sukhumvit Soi 49 has given over its 2nd floor area to an inventive gallery called Case Space Revolution. Meanwhile, the P. Tendercool furniture showroom on Charoen Krung 30 has used its vast wall space to showcase some very interesting artists, including the abstract works of Somboon Hormtientong (pictured above), which are on display until June 19th. You can also find art on the walls on many bars and restaurants in Bangkok, and Eat Me restaurant even has a rotating selection of artwork for diners to admire, exclusively curated by H Gallery on nearby Sathorn Soi 12. Or, head to Smalls on Soi Suan Phlu where owner David Jacobson—an astute art collector in his own right—has his eclectic collection on display over all three floors of the bar. And, in a reverse scenario, the Ekamian (Sukhumvit

14 | J U N E 2018

Soi 40) is a relatively new art gallery that doubles as an innovative Chef’s Table restaurant. Of course, it would be criminal to leave out Bangkok’s legion of street artists, who use derelict buildings as their colourful canvasses. Equally well known by the public as the police, these graffiti gadflys often infuse their work with social critique, something that is usually censored outright in Thailand’s conventional gallery or museum settings. But if a work is too controversial—such as the numerous black leopard wall murals that sprang up last March in response to a high profile case of illegal poaching—then it mysteriously “disappears” under a coat of fresh white paint, courtesy of the municipal powers that be. Proof positive of the underlying power of art. This city’s ongoing creative explosion has also been enhanced by more and more by acclaimed international artists coming to Bangkok to display their work. Recent “brushes with fame” include a visit by Japanese-American artist Madsaki, who unveiled his largest ever public installation on May 8th at Central Embassy (1031 Phloen Chit Rd). And in October the Bangkok Art Biennale arrives. If it all sounds like a lot to take in, don’t worry... it is! However, the Bangkok Art Map (BAM), which has been publishing a monthly guide to the city’s art scene for over 10 years now, is a handy resource tool for local gallery goers wanting to know the who, what, and where when it comes to visual art. To fine out more about art in BKK, visit: www.facebook.com/bangkokartmap. bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Must-see Museums

Two of this city’s best large-scale contemporary art showcases BACC: Opened in 2008, the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC), has become the surprising success story of the city’s art scene. Visit any day of the week (except Monday) and you’ll see gaggles of people—locals, tourists, children, and students—milling about contentedly viewing art. But the BACC’s existence today is a miracle of perseverance, and the fact that there is any kind of public art centre in downtown Bangkok is due to the unwavering determination of the Thai Artists Network and its supporters, who fought long and hard to get government to understand the vital importance of art to a society and its “intellectual development and creativity”. And when certain civic authorities recently revealed a plan to turn several floors into paid co-working spaces, the outcry from the public was so strong the plans were quickly scrapped. The building was designed by the architect firm Robert G. Boughey, and the finished building—which bears an obvious similarity to the spiraling Guggenheim in New York City—has 10 floors, with the top three being the main galleries. On five of the floors there are shops, a library, conference rooms, cafés, and bookstores, and there are also two floors underground as well. The central atrium neatly unifies the whole space, and is crowned by a vast skylight that casts a holy glow down to the ground floor. And, most important of all, the calibre of the curation is often excellent, particularly when the centre hosts biennales, travelling shows, and ‘blockbuster’ exhibitions. en.bacc.or.th

MOCA: Easily the largest and most comprehensive

repository for contemporary Thai art in Bangkok, the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) is located way up in the north end of the city (near the Don Mueang airport). It’s a bit hard to get to, but once there it’s definitely worth the journey. The brainchild of DTAC telecom magnate Boonchai Bencharongkul, this magnificent museum is a labour of love for an industrialist who once dreamt of becoming a painter but became an art-collector instead. The space houses more than 800 pieces from his art collection, including paintings, photographs, and sculptures. And it’s been said that he has several thousand more artworks in storage, which could possibly be displayed on a rotating basis in the future. The striking design of the milk-white building includes diamond-shaped openings on the walls, and a large reflecting pool outside full marble “jasmine buds”—which some liken to an explosion of buxom breasts—drooping over the reflective surface of the water. Eclectic styles and subjects are what one witnesses on every floor of this unique building. The repository is like a ‘Who’s Who’ of the Thai art world, and should be visited by anyone interested to view the boundless variety of art this country has to offer. The 5th floor, by contrast, is devoted to ‘international’ art. Open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10am to 6pm. www.mocabangkok.com

bangkok101.com

JUNE 2018 | 15

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Art Explosion!

Chief Executive and Artistic Director Apinan Poshyananda talks about Bangkok’s inaugural Art Biennale Interview by Lekha Shankar

hailand is, unfortunately, well behind other Asian countries when it comes to holding Art Biennales. But this year it’s finally happening, and the first ever Bangkok Art Biennale will run from October 19th, 2018, to February 3rd, 2019. However, if you’ve also heard about the “unofficial” Bangkok Biennial—which runs from July 1st to the end of September—don’t confuse the two (note the different spellings). And to make things even more convoluted, the Thai province of Krabi will be hosting the 4-month-long Thailand Biennale (no relation), from November 2nd, 2018, to February 28th, 2019. But mindboggling as it may be, it just means more art for all. The official Bangkok Art Biennale (BAB) was first announced at the Venice Biennale back in May of 2017, and now the list of participants has been finalized. It includes 75 artists from 33 countries, with a diverse group of artists representing nations such as Russia, India, China, Turkey, Vietnam, Denmark, France, and others. The venues at which the art will be staged are also diverse, including temples, heritage buildings, gardens, malls, and even city sky-walks. Most interesting, however, is the fact that the Chao Phraya River will be a kind of central lifeline for the whole Bangkok Art Biennale, with the numerous galleries, art centres, and hotels around it becoming important hubs for art events. In an exclusive interview, the Chief Executive and Artistic Director of BAB, Prof. Dr. Apinan Poshyananda— well-known art curator and Thailand’s former Permanent Secretary, Ministry of Culture—outlined the details of this city’s biggest art extravaganza.

Prof. Dr. Apinan Poshyananda

Tell us about the curators and advisors working on BAB. We have world-renowned names, whom I have known over many years. There are seven advisors kindly offering their expertise, and I’m lucky to have such a good team. These advisors are from top international museums like the Guggenheim, London’s Saatchi Gallery, and Tokyo’s Mori Art Museum. The five curators are established names from Singapore, The Philippines, as well as three from Thailand.

inspection of Wat Pho and may do an installation about Chinese-Thai trade links. Then there’s Yoshitomo Nara from Japan, who will bring his sculptures, along with Choi Jeong Hwa from Korea, who loves the marketplace and will create some unique ‘baskets’ in public spaces. In addition, there are AES+F from Russia, and Art Labor from Vietnam, who we are working with for the first time. In total we have 40 international artists, and 35 Thai ones, so that’s an even balance for the Thai artists.

Who are some of the renowned international artists coming to BAB? We will have both new and established famous artists in the Bangkok Art Biennale. The biggest name, of course, is Marina Abramovic, and she’ll be doing sculptures, installations, and video art. There’s also the world-famous Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. The other big names are Huang Yong Ping from China, who has made a site

Tell us about the Thai artists talking part. Many of them are known internationally and have participated in top art exhibitions like the Venice Biennale and the German Documenta. The art scene has really expanded in Thailand, and today there are well over 70 galleries in Bangkok alone. At the Bangkok Art Biennale we will have Thai artists of varied genres—from landscape artist Sanitas Pradittasnee, to video artist Kawita

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bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE a Thai video artist will make a video film connecting the rivers of Copenhagen and Bangkok.

East Asiatic Company Building

Yayoi Kusama

Marina Abramovic

Choi Jeong Hwa

Vatanajyankur, manga artist Wisut Ponnimit, and sculptor Komkrit Tepthian. We also have a fresh graduate, Sunanta Phasomwong. What are some of the varied venues where the art will be on view? Bangkok is noted for its many heritage sites, and we will use many of these spaces for the Biennale; temples like Wat Pho and Wat Arun, gardens like the ones in Lumphini park, the old Night Bazar area (called Bangkok One), cultural centers like the BACC, malls like Siam Paragon, Central World, and EmQuartier, the beautiful Nailert Park Heritage Home, and even the city sky-walks. Many people say that Biennales are elitist, so that’s why I want to use as many “public” spaces as possible, so that the maximum general public are exposed to the art works. One especially unique venue will be the gorgeous East Asiatic Company Building, near the Oriental Hotel, with its Italian architecture and neo-colonial style. This is where the Danish-Norwegian artist duo Elmgreen Statue by Komkrit Tepthian & Dragset will do an installation, while bangkok101.com

Speaking of waterways, how will the Chao Phraya River play a role in all of this? Bangkok has often been called the ‘Venice of the East’, because of it expansive network of rivers and canals. The Chao Phraya River will be the central lifeline of the Bangkok Art Biennale, and the galleries, art centers, and hotels around it will be involved. Gallery hubs such as Jam Factory, and O.P. Garden will be taking part, while The Mandarin Oriental and The Peninsula are the host hotels. The river, in turn, fits in well with the theme of the Bangkok Art Biennale—‘Beyond Bliss’—as it’s a river which means different things to different people. It’s the ‘River of Life’ in many ways. Tell us more about the theme, ‘Beyond Bliss’. This theme is not just a Buddhist concept, as many think. It can also be connected to the traumas and dilemmas of contemporary life. At first it sounds ephemeral, but it inspires different reactions from different people, as one sees from the works of the participating artistes. After all, art is about open-mindedness and freedom of expression. How does “freedom” play a role in the relatively censored society of Thailand? Isn’t it interesting that we are holding our first Bangkok Art Biennale in Thailand, at the time of a military government?

Elmgreen & Dragset J U N E 2018 | 17

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Artwork by AES+F from Russia But having worked with the government, I know how to keep the balance. You can be free, and critical, but do be subtle. The Bangkok Art Biennale is important to the country, because it will improve the image of Thailand— culturally and touristically. How is BAB expected to boost tourism? The TAT has supported us a lot, especially with our international promotions. They may offer Bangkok Art Biennale packages to tourists. Nearly 6,000 tourists a day visit the famous temples of Bangkok. Our aim is to connect heritage places with contemporary art. Bangkok Art Biennale will bring to Bangkok a new brand of “cultural tourists”. There’s already an interest from some tour groups in Korea, Japan, and Singapore. Who are some of the sponsors of BAB? Along with the TAT we have got help from the Ministry of Tourism and Sports, Thai Airways, Bangkok Metropolitan Board, Thai Beverages Siam Piwat, Central Group, One Bangkok, EmQuartier, as well as from many embassies and cultural centers. What are some of the other art related activities planned? Apart from the art shows and exhibitions there will be lectures, seminars, and workshops. Marina Abramovic will send top artists to conduct a three-week workshop for local artists. In addition, many students will be recruited to work directly with the artists, so that the youth 18 | JUNE 2018

can be involved with the Biennale. There will also be various art activities for kids. Tell us about the Bangkok Art Biennale Magazine. This magazine, which is the host-magazine of the Bangkok Art Biennale, will be produced every two months and distributed free to the public. It will give updates and provide as much info as possible on every aspect of the Biennale. What is your take on the other two Thailand biennales— namely the one in Krabi in November, and the “unofficial” one in Bangkok, starting in July? I think it’s good for the public to have such a wide variety of art choices. It’s enriching and energizing! Hopefully, the numerous art galleries in Bangkok will one day get together and form an ‘Association of Galleries’.

Wisut Ponnimit

What is your personal definition of a “good” work of art? Whenever I see a good work of art, I start twitching and want to learn more. It becomes a dialogue between me and someone I don’t know, which is so joyful and mind-expanding. I sincerely hope the Bangkok Art Biennale will expand the minds of many people in Bangkok, and beyond. I’m a full-time curator now and have been travelling to many countries to plan the Bangkok Art Biennale. After my 30-year involvement in the art field, I must admit that this art project has been, and continues to be, one of my most fulfilling moments. bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

BATTLE OF THE BIENNALES

longside the “official” Bangkok Art Biennale, there is the “other” Bangkok Biennal (note the different spelling), scheduled to take place from July 1st to September 30th of this year. Conceived and put together by a conglomerate of local artists (Thai and foreign), the folk behind this unofficial Biennal choose to remain anonymous. Many call it an “underground” or “guerrilla” art event, but the organizers prefer to call it a “grassroots” event. “We all know each other, and don’t need to go public,” said two representatives during a meeting. “We want to focus on the artists and the artworks. This is about horizontal level, not top level.” They first announced their art event way back in April 2017 and, through an Open Access system, accepted numerous applications online. “We had an open concept of pavilions, and so the artists could totally decide things for themselves,” they went on to say. In fact, their Biennal has no curators at all, and almost everyone who understood its focus on “concepts”, and applied within the fixed date, was selected. In spite of the organizers being anonymous, the names of the artists, pavilions, and concepts are explained in great detail on the website, which lists 150 artists and 69 staging pavilions.

Installation by Unchalee Anantawat There will be many unique pavilions with many arresting concepts—American Pavilion, Charoen Pavilion, Bangkok Sky Pavilion, and Supernatural Pavilion— showcasing artists of many genres, including video, sound, and performance. Well-known names taking part include Angkrit Ajchariyasophon, Mit Jai Inn, Unchalee Anantawat, as well as street artists TRK and Hideyuki Katsumata, and the Bangkok Underground Film Festival team of Sam Freeman, Dhyan Ho, and many others. Rapat Bunduwanich and the Guerrilla Boys are some of the fresh young Thai talent taking part, while the foreign artists include Shinya Akutagawa from

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Hideyuki Katsumata Japan, Abhijan Gupta from India, Sarah Azpeitia from the USA, Yu Cheng Ta from Taiwan, Alfred Banze and Christine Falk from Germany, and a host of others. Finally, the local galleries partaking in the Bangkok Biennal include Speedy Grandma, Jam Café, WTF, the N22 galleries of Artist + Run, and Cartel Artspace. According to the organizers the pavilions will be seen in public spaces all around Bangkok—sky walks, the railway station, parks, gardens, malls, etc.—while sister events will be staged in other Thai locales, such as Chiang Mai, Khon Kaen, Pattani, Narathiwat, and Guerrilla Boys Chachoengsao. There will also be some interesting ‘Cross Over’ projects in Germany, France, and The Netherlands. As for budget, it’s a self-organized and self-funded enterprise. “We are all working together in a collaborative environment,” announced the two anonymous representatives. To find out more visit the website at: www.bangkokbiennial.com. After the “official” Bangkok Art Biennale opens it will soon receive some friendly competition from the 4-month-long Thailand Biennale, which will be held in Krabi province (in Southern Thailand), running from November 2nd, 2018, to February 28th, 2019. It’s being organized by the Office of Contemporary Art and Culture (OCAC), but unlike conventional art museum exhibitions it will be staged outdoors, at natural sites in Krabi—known for its majestic mountain ranges and stunning coastlines. The Thailand Biennale has been initiated to promote Krabi as a global art city, and it involves the following three sections: an international art competition; an exhibition of artworks of Thai and international artists under the theme ‘Edge of the Wonderland’; and academic activities comprised of educational exchanges, such as curator talks and art workshops for Thai and international artists and art students. www.thailandbiennale.org

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Treasure Troves

Bangkok’s best antiques, artefacts, curios, and collectibles By Dr. Tom Vitayakul

Dech Gallery

ften asked where I acquired certain pieces of art or certain antiques, I’m not hesitant to reveal the addresses of these not-so-secret venues. But before searching at these treasure troves, always look and learn before you buy a supposed “valuable”. Here are my simple rules about art acquisitions: ask about what you’re buying (history, concept, material, craftsmanship, provenance, etc.); only buy what you like or love; buy what you can afford; and never buy for an investment. The store and gallery owners and their assistants should be more than happy to help you find out more about what you are about to purchase. ANTIQUES: Once a month I also go to browse antiques and bric-à-brac at Bangkok’s sprawling Chatuchak Weekend Market. However, real and rare pieces are getting scarce and most masterpieces

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end up at the dealers in the River City Bangkok shopping complex (23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Si Phraya Pier). One of the best is Dech Gallery, located on the 4th floor. It is owned and operated by Khun Dechar Sae-Be and his wife, Khun Sirinun ‘Aum’ Maitrawattana. This is the second generation incarnation of Hong Antiques, owned by Khun Dechar’s father. Dech’s dual galleries are located opposite each other, and have a large selection of antiques from Southeast Asian countries, as well as China, Japan, and more. Their forte is Chinese tomb figures—from large pieces, like a horse or a camel, to small figurines. Some of them come with Oxford authentication TL (Thermoluminescence) test certificates to guarantee their authenticity. So whether you’re looking for a large Burmese Buddha image, or some objets d’art with particular histories, this place will not disappoint. bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE TEXTILES: The main branch of Maya textiles is currently located in Chatuchak Plaza, but it will be moving to the soon-to-open riverfront Icon Siam shopping megacomplex later this year. Khun Udom Riantrakool, a textile collector himself, has also been operating Maya outlets in Gaysorn Plaza and Siam Paragon for almost two decades. Very keen and knowledgeable on textiles, he can explain the stories and techniques behind each piece. Besides his own priceless collections, he retails a wide range of textiles from Southeast Asia, as well as India and other countries.

Maya Textiles

These woven beauties can be worn and/or used for decoration, or just collected for their intricate craftsmanship and artistic expression. Khun Udom can suggest to new enthusiasts about what to buy for gifts, such as new silk and cotton scarves and shawls. He can also offer advice to help you build a collection of certain varieties of vintage and antique textiles and costumes from various ethnic groups and minorities from Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar, China, etc.

Maya Textiles bangkok101.com

Ming’s Furniture

FURNITURE: Located between Sukhumvit Sois 28 and 30, Ming’s Furniture Showroom, is owned by Khun Vichai ‘Pod’ Imsuksom and his family. An avid aficionado in Chinese art and culture, Khun Pod’s humble abode actually somewhat resembles the set of a Chinese movie. In the business for more than five decades, he and his family manufacture and supply some of the country’s best hardwood furniture. Ming’s pieces are sculpted and engineered by traditional methods, and made from genuine woods, such as rosewood or pradoo in Thai, elm, hwa-li, and zitan, etc. With beautiful forms, and clean, supple lines, Chinese furniture is timeless. It’s a mixture of Sino-classicism and modernism. It exudes wisdom and maturity, and Vichai its simplicity contrasts Imsuksom well with more elaborate antiques. Fantastic for both household functions, and wonderful to admire for years, it will never go out of style. Ming’s also has a line of home décor with Asian symbols and other decorative characteristics. JUNE 2018 | 21

Photoss: Cicada bar cabinet by John Hennequin; interior by Giuseppe Farnizza

CITY PULSE | best of bkk Alexander Lamont

CRAFTS: I usually say that crafts aren’t only made by hand, but also from the heart, and at Alexander Lamont’s eponymously named stores—in Gaysorn Village and other locations—he elevates crafts into another calibre. Of course, Alexander Lamont isn’t just about crafts, as the stores also sell furniture, accessories, and artefacts. Very passionate about his creations, the Britishborn owner and designer of these objects of desire has worked with his team of local designers and artisans for years. When Western eyes and tastes meet with Eastern clarity and skills, the results are refined and sumptuous. Alexander merges his vision, philosophy, aesthetics, and craftsmanship into myriads of meticulous art pieces. These materials and textures in these objects can range from unpolished and smoothened shagreen (ray skin), to silvery slivers of straw marquetry, deep lustres of black lacquer, and hammered and patinated bronze. They combine elegance, sensuality, soul, and the very character of their creators. Splendid craftsmanship can also be found in Bangkok at Lotus Arts de Vivre, and local stores such as Naraiphan and Legend. FINE ARTS: When it comes to fine art Serindia Gallery at the O.P. Garden on Charoen Krung Road Soi 36, is always a delight to visit. Housed in the pre-WWII era office of a renowned doctor and natural conservationist, the gallery—owned by Shane Suvikapakornkul—also publishes books under the Serindia Publications brand, and sells them at the Hardcover store at BACC, and at Open House in Central Embassy. So, besides looking at art, you can learn more about it from these books. 22 | JUNE 2018

Serindia Gallery

Among many great galleries in Bangkok, such as 100 Tonson, Numthong, and Ardel, Serindia offers a variety of art and design exhibitions for both perusal and purchasing. Shane stocks well-selected oil and watercolour paintings, woodblock prints, fine art photographs, sculptures, and design objects made by local and international artists. He has also recently opened a new branch of the gallery in New York. Through Shane’s connections with renowned artists from all over the world, it would be implausible not to find at least one artwork you like. So if you’re seek something to brighten up your empty walls, this gallery should definitely be one of the places to look first.

Serindia Gallery bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

ChangChui

Hip hangout for Bangkok’s artisans and art lovers alike Words and photos by Jella Erhard

Lockheed L-1101 Tristar airplane

ince opening its gates in mid-2017, the ChangChui art night market has quickly became the go-to place for art-loving and free-spirited Bangkokians. The complex is the brainchild of Somchai Songwattana, owner and art director of Thailand’s beloved vintage fashion brand FlyNow. The unique style of this market definitely sets it apart, making it stand out and rise above all the other night markets in Bangkok in terms of artistic flair. Basically, ChangChui was created with three main ideas in mind: First, nothing is useless; second, art above all; and third, to create a destination for a new generation. The vintage Thai-style wooden houses add a shred of overall architectural nostalgia, while the eccentric art displayed in every corner, and at every bar, restaurant, and open space available, underscores the rich artistic world that has been a part of Thai people’s lives for centuries. Here Bangkok’s artists and creative minds have been given a new and vibrant place where their works can shine. bangkok101.com

A full day can be easily spent at this market, and your stay can easily extend well into the night. Art shops, food courts, unique restaurants, street food set ups, a vintage cinema, hundreds of art displays, designer bars, and live music during the evening hours all combine to make for the ultimate in an entertaining and culturally rich night out. ChangChui’s biggest and most beloved beast has to be the decommissioned Lockheed L-1011 Tristar airplane that welcomes visitors when they arrive to the center of this bohemian brainstorm. The plane even has a nickname. It’s called Na-oh—a variation on Noah, the gentleman with the famous Ark—and the interior’s eccentric décor includes vintage style furniture, sculptures, luxury chandeliers, and a trove of taxidermized wild animals (in February of this year a fine-dining restaurant was added so visitors can now dine among the beasts as well). Meanwhile, under the airplane sits the Runway Bar, one of the best places to enjoy a cold beer and listen to some quality music at sunset and/or after hours, as Bangkok’s young artists show off their musical talents. JUNE 2018 | 23

CITY PULSE | out & about

See & Do For some vintage vibes, and to learn about art from the past, visit the gallery behind the huge smoking skull sculpture, where the owner’s personal art collection is displayed. This private museum, called Chui Samosorn, creates a bridge between the past, present, and future. These unique antiques will give you a good impression of what kind of art was preferred by Thai people in the days of yore.

Art for kids But first and foremost ChangChui is a creative space where a new breed of young artists, designers, and creative minds can display their creations, and where art lovers can enjoy some quality time (without spending a lot of money). It’s a perfect place to come with friends, family, or even alone. There never needs to be a boring moment here, as something new will grab your imagination every second if you let it. And even if you’re not an art buff, and worried you can’t understand or can’t find art, don’t fret—the art will find you. Art is “in the air”, or at least that’s how it feels here. The moment you step inside the confines of this complex you’ll feel as if you’re visiting an open air museum, as opposed to just another night market. From the buildings, sculptures, and paintings, to the design of the bars, shops, and even the clothing displays, it’s all intended to get your imagination moving. There are also new and inspiring exhibitions every month or so, and you can also find plenty of creative programmes (some for the whole family). All this activity invites you to become an active part of the overall experience.

Mural by Alex Face Along with vintage vibes can also find the works of modern Thai street artists exhibited as you walk around the market. Probably the most famous and beloved of the outdoor artists is Alex Face—aka: Patcharapol Tangruen— who is as talented as he is prolific. You can find some of his oversized work displayed in the back garden (for more on Alex Face, see pg. 27). You can also take art home if you like. There are many peculiarly designed clothing shops to visit, as well

EYE-POPPING EATERIES One of the most intriguing restaurants at ChangChui is Insects in the Backyard (pictured), a fine dining spot that showcases edible insects on the menu. Eating insects is certainly not new to Thai culture, however it’s a first to have them as part of the city’s gourmet scene. So what does an insect taste like?... surprisingly good. They’re crunchy, and often have a little fatty flavour as well (the ones I had were a bit of a mix between crispy bacon and a biscuit). This unique eatery makes ChangChui even more special and a true destination dining experience for die-hard foodies. The restaurant is easy to spot as the giant grasshopper outside will certainly grab your attention, and no doubt make you curious about what’s hiding inside. The beautifully decorated interior is a mix antique dark wood furniture, exotic taxidermy displays, and playful sculptures. Meanwhile, Chef Thitiwat ‘Mai’ Tantragarn’s exquisite Western-style fare, that feature or is garnished with insects, will make sure you get your daily protein intake. Another dining spot of note is Thé, a branch of Hua Hin’s most famous tea salon. It’s ideal for those who prefer a more traditional, classical feel when it comes to both art and food. Sitting down for a pot of tea, or a quick bite, will feed not only your artistic curiosity but also your Instagram account. This is an exquisite, creatively designed, museum-like space and it is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the taste buds—where the air is filled with the scent of Marriage Frères tea, sweet nibbles, and savoury brunch dishes. From the intricate woodcrafted Mogul-style arches to the stuffed wildlife creatures on display, it’s a sophisticated sensory stimulation.

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out & about | CITY PULSE

Rhino statue in front of the FlyNow shop

Bizarre interiors everywhere as boutiques offering unique home décor items and souvenirs—perhaps one of the most eye-catching is Lamp of Industry. You can also sit in a galaxy-themed barber shop, or get lost in a flower wonderland at the gardening and plant shop.

Live performances Cinema buffs can also find something to lure them in, as the Dujit Arai Kor Chang is a bygone era theatre where you can find everything from documentary screenings to scheduled live performances (depending on the date and time). If you want to find out more about what’s on at ChangChui, be sure you check out the full schedule listings online at: en.changchuibangkok.com. bangkok101.com

Heartfelt art display

THE FUTURE OF ART & OUR PLANET While ChangChui has a strong, undeniable vintage vibe, it also focuses heavily on being a place that has a commitment to the next generation. Their ‘Nothing Is Useless’ motto underscores a way of thinking that sends a strong environmental message to us all, and teaches the younger visitors—from an early age— how important it is to take care of our planet. And they “creatively” put their money where their mouth is, as ChangChui itself is made of reused structures and its art displays were created only with recycled materials. One of their biggest projects is The Yard Hostel which was entirely created with reused materials, such as shipping containers. ChangChui teaches us to appreciate and to learn from the past, but also to look to the future. It’s a place that encourages you to be yourself and embrace what makes you unique. For Western visitors, it shows Bangkok’s and Thailand’s lesserknown face and helps newcomers to get more insights into the Kingdom’s rich and ever-changing cultural heritage. Art enthusiasts should head here if they want to get a fascinating look inside this country’s art worlds—past, present, and future. As it says ChangChui’s the official website: “When creativity is applied, discarded objects acquire value. Every bit of ChangChui is therefore created through a mixture of optimism, inspiration, and wisdom.”

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CITY PULSE | made in thailand

Top Thai Talent

Prolific local artists who each have an immediately recognizable style

ANCHALEE ARAYAPONGPANICH This 32-year-old painter creates unforgettable artworks that almost invariably depict big-eyed women (Ă la Margaret Keane) who appear at once both doll-like and fiercely powerful. A graduate of the Faculty of Painting, Sculpture and Graphic Arts, Silpakorn University, Anchalee Arayapongpanich has had her work displayed in such local galleries as: Sathorn 11 Art Space, River City Bangkok, and the Ardel Gallery of Modern Art. She readily admits that movies are her main inspiration for her creations, as they provide multi-layered dimensions of feelings, ambience, and lighting. Still, no matter how recognizable the film alluded to may be, in the end the style is 100 percent Anchalee.

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made in thailand | CITY PULSE

ALEX FACE Since his breakout solo exhibition back in 2012, street artist Alex Face (real name Patcharapol Tangruen) has taken the Bangkok art scene by storm. He almost always uses as his central character a three-eyed, animal costume-wearing baby (or is it a disillusioned grown up?), and this iconic character can be seen on countless walls in and around this city’s urban landscape, as well as in painting and sculpture form in galleries, restaurants, and other venues. Alex’s style seems to borrow as much from Maurice Sendak as it does the Impressionist art masterpieces that the artist has always loved and admired, but in the end the look is uniquely his own—and has become as synonymous with 21st century Bangkok as Keith Haring was to 1980s New York City.

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CITY PULSE | made in thailand

SAJJA SAJJAKUL Born in Chumphon province, Sajja Sajjakul studied painting at the College of Fine Art, Silpakorn University. He worked in an advertising agency during the 1990s, and in film and theatre for a few years after that, but for the past 15 years he has devoted his time to teaching and creating art. He has had his works displayed locally in venues such as Number 1 Gallery and Sathorn 11 Art Space, as well as internationally (most recently at the ARTexpo NYC 2018). His exquisitely detailed and intricate paintings reflect upon the trials of modern lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;from political injustice and cultural conflicts, to the inner condition of peoplesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; minds. And while the content may be serious, Sajja always searches for ways to present it in a satirical and ironic way in order to point out the overall absurdity.

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made in thailand | CITY PULSE

YUREE KENSAKU In one of her most ambitious projects, Thai-Japanese artist Yuree Kensaku took over Bangkok’s 100 Tonson Gallery for a total of 16 consecutive months—from February 2016 to May 2017—transforming the cube-like interior into the artist’s own alternate universe (and, in turn, making one of the artist’s biggest mural paintings to date). Yuree is one of the leading Thai new wave talents whose works are exhibited and collected both locally and internationally, appearing in renowned institutions that include the MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum in Chiang Mai. The artist is known for her bright and colourful multi-media paintings and sculptures, which are inhabited by characters influenced by a wide range of sources, from mythology to popular culture, Japanese Manga, folklore, fairy tales, and more. Combined with her witty wordplay, the result is a visual narrative with often unexpectedly serious underlying messages.

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CITY PULSE | made in thailand

KATHY MACLEOD Born and raised in Bangkok, to a Thai mother and American father, Kathy MacLeod attended international school locally before going to Wesleyan University in Connecticut to study fine arts. She always loved to draw, but it wasn’t until college that she realized she didn’t want to do anything else. She is now a successful commercial artist and illustrator, but to most Bangkok residents she is the talent behind BK Magazine’s long running weekly comic strip entitled ‘What She Said’, which began back in 2011. Her unique drawing style—which appears at first to be naïve, and almost childlike—deftly conveys, in deceptively simple lines, the wacky world of Bangkok’s colourful cast of characters—from hipsters and Hi-Sos, to shopkeepers and sexpats.

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made in thailand | CITY PULSE

Kathy’s charmingly chaotic bird’s eye views of Bangkok’s Chinatown (above) and Lumphini Park (opposite bottom right)

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CITY PULSE | property profile

Downtown Destination

The Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park Bangkok is a luxurious locale for long or short stay visits

hen choosing a place to stay (or live) in Bangkok there can never be enough emphasis put on “location”. This manic metropolis is not always the easiest city to get around in, so convenient access to shops, restaurants, and entertainment venues—not to mention the BTS Skytrain system—is a must. Thankfully the Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park Bangkok has all those bases covered. Located halfway down Sukhumvit Soi 24, this 34-storey property offers 300 accommodation units, ranging from studios and one-bedroom suites, to family size two-bedroom suites and three-bedroom apartments—all with complete gourmet kitchens, beautiful furnishings, and plenty of space for living, working, and relaxing. It’s close to the Phrom Phong BTS station and the EmQuartier mall, and offers guests complimentary tuk tuk service to and from both. The Marriott Executive Apartments (MEA) brand, which has locations in 16 countries across the globe, specializes in premium serviced apartments that are perfect for executive expats on an extended stay, or when travelling to other cities on a temporary assignment

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or relocation. But they can just as easily facilitate travellers looking to plunk themselves down in Bangkok for a while in a place that really feels like a home. One of the first homey touches I encountered was the warm and friendly greeting by the check-in staff. Efficient and exceedingly friendly, they’re on hand to answer any and all questions. It was definitely in keeping with the property’s trademark tagline: “You don’t stay here, you live here.” I checked into a spacious 65 sq.m One Bedroom Suite on the 33rd floor,

tastefully decorated—contemporary and modern, but by no means bland—with panoramic views of the Bangkok skyline. The living room area here is dominated by a blonde leather L-shaped sectional sofa, but also includes a table with seating for four, and a large work desk that doubles as an entertainment console (with a massive LCD flatscreen TV). The adjacent bedroom—with an LCD flatscreen TV of its own—boasts a large king-sized bed which, I have to admit, was one of the most incredibly bangkok101.com

property profile | CITY PULSE

comfortable beds I’ve ever laid down upon. Billowy soft, it was like lying on pillow of cloud, with six equally soft pillows and a fluffy duvet to add to the experience. As it happens the bedding is from Revive, a signature brand used by Marriott. Other bedroom amenities include bathrobes and slippers, in-room safe, iron and ironing board, vacuum, and more. Meanwhile, the huge en suite bathroom had much to offer as well— glassed-in rainshower, natural skincare and aromatherapy products from Thai brand Thann, and loads of soft towels— but I was especially taken with the extra deep and extra wide bathtub, which is separate from the shower. But perhaps what really makes this place feel like a home is the kitchen, with its large fridge, sink, oven, stove, and numerous other handy appliances bangkok101.com

(there’s even a built-in dishwasher!). The suite also includes a combination washer/dryer, neatly tucked away in a closet near the entrance. Additional building amenities include a 24-hour fitness centre, a spa, and six meeting rooms (426 sq.m total), but for many guests the most frequented spot will be the 3rd floor outdoor swimming pool, which has a separate kid’s pool, as well as a stand alone Jacuzzi that gets sun all day long. Order a beer or cocktail from Bar on 3, the poolside drink and snack venue, and relax in a sun lounger while enjoying the free Wi-Fi available throughout the property. Other 3rd floor amenities include a kid’s club, a pool table, and saunas (separate for men and women). For diners, a sumptuous daily breakfast buffet is served up at

Bistro M, the property’s on-site restaurant, but be sure to pay a visit here for lunch and/or dinner as well. This casual dining eatery offers a wide selection of international dishes, including Thai specialties, made-to-order pasta, and freshly BBQ’d seafood. And for those who love wining and dining, Bistro M runs special wine promotions every month. In addition, come June Bistro M will have a new head chef, so expect even more good things in the months ahead. By Bruce Scott

Marriott Executive Apartments

Sukhumvit Park Bangkok 90, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 302 5555 www.marriottsukhumvitpark.com JUNE 2018 | 33

SNAPSHOTS | insight

Myrtille Tibayrenc: A truly rare bird

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insight | SNAPSHOTS

Myrtille Tibayrenc

acred or profane? Ambiguity and duality can be seen as two sides of a coin or each brain’s hemisphere. Myrtille Tibayrenc, or ‘Mimi’, a multi-talented gallerist/ curator/artist, intrigues and perplexes the audience with these double entendres in her intimate yet intense tableaux. Born in Paris, raised in Bolivia, and schooled in California, Mimi is a mélange of cultures and inspirations. Growing up with a scientific father and an artistic mother, her family exposed her to two worlds’ perspectives: reason and emotion. Her family often poses universal questions such as God’s existence vs. Darwin’s Theory of Evolution, and they continue to inspire her. Against her father’s will, she studied art in Dunkirk and Marseille, and gained a master’s degree from L’École des Beaux Arts de Dunkerque. However, she was mainly taught contemporary art techniques and thinking for conceptual and installation art. Her painterly skills are self-taught. In 2005, after her vacation in Thailand where her father was a Scientific Attaché at L’Institut de Recherche Pour le Développement

NOW NEW NEXT Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he meets with creative minds and artistic souls from both Thailand and overseas. From traditional, to contemporary and avant-garde, he finds out about the visions, inspirations, and creations of these talented individuals. bangkok101.com

(IRD), Mimi found a job co-ordinating and organizing events for the 2nd annual La Fête French art and cultural festival, and met Haritorn Akarapat, a respected sculptor (who eventually became her husband). She then started to curate for Tang Contemporary Art and Gossip Gallery, and opened Toot Yung Gallery in 2010. “I like the name Toot Yung because it’s kinky, on the edge, erotic, and bloody,” she jokes. “It’s Thai for mosquito’s ass. When it bites, it hurts and is painful.” Two years later, with a wealthy benefactor, the gallery moved from Bangkok Old Town to Sukhumvit. The newly renovated space became a one-stop art enclave with a café, a boutique, a studio, and an artist-inresidence atelier. Unfortunately, she left because of disagreement with the financial partner. With these experiences under her wings, and between full-time jobs, Mimi took art from the confinement of a gallery to the open streets of Bangkok. She went on to co-direct the Bukruk Urban Arts Festival in 2013 and 2015, as well as the Ratchaprasong Art Maze (an ephemeral art installation), and From Dusk till Dawn (on the Skywalk). Most recently, in 2018 Toot Yung’s third incarnation launched in Chiang Mai—the Toot Yung Art Centre, designed by Udom Dansakchai. As artistic director or curator, Mimi engages contemporary artists and local artisans to create both art and crafts installations. Until now, Mimi only has two solo exhibitions: ‘Sublimation’ and ‘Sweet Waste’. She first exhibited her paintings of gay men kissing in a group show at Kalwit Studio. When she had time to paint again, she chose small formats of oil on canvas, with subjects ranging from landscapes to portraits of both saints and sinners. Shy and introverted, she explains, “I try to hold on to my confused emotions. Painting them feels more relaxing, like meditation. I expel my emotions into the works. I have too much to express. Otherwise, I get

drunk or frustrated and angry. I paint to control my temper.” “I like subjects that can express many topics at the same time. When I paint gay couples, I don’t want to talk about homosexuality but about two selves—a man and a man, twins, or duality within one person. I’m worried and horrified that even today homosexuals are still harassed about their intimate lives. I love that there are mixed emotions and deeper layers of meanings. At first, these images may appear a bit hardcore, with some blood and frontal penetration. But they are painted with soft techniques to look very refreshing and natural. When I look at pornography, I hear stories about women mistreated by men in bed. There’s miscommunication between couples in terms of sexuality. When I sleep with men, I still have mixed feelings in my mind. We are not natural creatures anymore. Sex is all linked to physical, intellectual, and spiritual aspects.” ‘Sweet Waste’, Mimi’s second series, exhibited in the secret room of Patpong Soi 2’s BarBar Fetish Club, shook up both the Bangkok art crowd and the city’s S&M scene. “I felt more liberated after the first show, so the second one is more seductive and kinkier,” she explains. “All the religious themes come from my mother, who’s now a hermit, and my sister, her follower. They are very spiritual and dedicate their lives to the church in Provence. I explore subjects like the nuns (whose corpses are incorrupt), the girl who saw the Virgin Mary, and statues that weep ‘the Blood of Christ’ every year. I believe in the miracles of life and that’s the religion in itself. Besides religious and erotic paintings, I paint emotional landscapes, like a little, peaceful pond and a field. A WWII bomb was dropped and made a huge hole which became a pond over the years. It contrasts between war and peace.” Kind-hearted and generous, Mimi assumes multiple roles but is ultimately an agent provocateur—a truly rare bird. JUNE 2018 | 35

SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand

The Thai Way of Death Funeral Rites: Attending a cremation ceremony in rural Thailand By Jim Algie

Circling the crematorium three times before the cremation

he wooden coffin had been placed inside a metal sarcophagus and covered with iridescent paper to seal in the stench of putrefaction. Bouquets of plastic flowers crowned and surrounded the coffin. On the left-hand side was a photograph of the deceased woman on a gilded stand strung with blinking fairy lights. After three days of mourning rites, the body would be burned so her ghost would not loiter on this plane of existence. As soon as a mourner entered the big wooden sala—near the temple in this Thai village of 100 people close to the Cambodian border—they lit

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one stick of incense and knelt down in front of the altar, praying for Noobin (the deceased) to have a safe journey to heaven and a good rebirth. The nine monks who came to chant each morning and evening offered the same blessings. Aside from the chanting, it was not a solemn occasion. More like an Irish wake, actually. Groups of family members and friends sat on the floor eating and chatting. Some of the men drank beer; others knocked back shots of rice liquor that tasted like pickled razor blades. Behind the scenes, the women cooked and served food.

At night, men knelt behind the curtain that separated the big room with the coffin and Buddha images from the kitchen, to put down wagers on a simplified version of roulette, using a cardboard grid on the floor. Right beside them, an older relative, the family’s loveable rogue, taught a gaggle of kids how to play the same game with one-baht coins he provided—and won back from them. The dead woman’s younger sister, Noopat, told me that gambling is common at rural funerals; it helps to distract people from their grief and the fear of a possible haunting. bangkok101.com

bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS

Caretaker smiles bravely as mourners leave incense sticks on coffin

At some memorial services in the countryside, poor families auction off the gambling rights to local mobsters, who agree to pay for the funeral ceremony. A good send-off, which gives ‘face’ to the deceased’s family, requires an investment of at least 20,000-30,000 baht. For many rural families, that’s a crippling debt. I’d never met the deceased, but she was the older sister of a friend’s wife. Myself and Cameron Cooper— Noopat’s husband and the man who co-founded the now defunct Farang Untamed Travel magazine

Bizarre

Thailand

Bizarre Thailand's columnist Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the collection of short stories entitled The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (2014), and Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex, and Black Magic. Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com

Jim & ex-girlfriend Anchana (the translator)

with me many years ago—were the only two farang (Westerners) there, and stories of the dead woman’s life leaked to us through the Thai-English language filter. She was a hard-worker who arose every morning at 4am to hitch a ride into the frontier town of Aranyaprathet to sell vegetables in the market. Afterwards, she returned home to make fried bananas or sticky rice in bamboo tubes to sell in the village. When her mother died young, she weaned her baby sister, Noopat, and her own infant son at the same time, each child suckling a different breast. Noobin moved to the northeastern province of Loei where she and her husband tended cornfields, but came back to the village to nurse her father when he was dying. Years later, her own misdiagnosed case of angina, which could have been treated with the right medicine and enough money, led to a massive stroke that left her body and mind mostly intact, but her vocal cords could only transmit whimpers in place of words. Sometimes she’d get angry and start crying when people

couldn’t understand her. Eventually, the untreated case of angina made her heart swell up to five times its normal size. Doctors gave her a year at most to live, but with incredible tenacity she hung on for three years. Liver failure turned her skin a yellowish-green tint and finally claimed her life. At the end she suffered such fits of agony that death came as a tender mercy. Sitting on the floor, drinking and listening to all these stories, I kept stealing glances over at her husband of some 30 years. For hours he’d been staring at the coffin and his wife’s portrait, sitting there on a dais by the Buddha images, where the monks had chanted earlier. The husband, whose face had taken on the same scorched and barren look of the province’s soil, must have been overwhelmed by the same memories everyone else was recollecting—except he had thousands more of them to sift through and sort out. We thought about walking over and offering him a drink and some condolences, but bereavement is the most private of duties, and condolences are clichés that console no one.

The new and expanded version of author Jim Algie’s latest tome, On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Tales of Rock and Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway, sports a cover blurb from the renowned author Timothy Hallinan: “The funniest sad book and the saddest funny book I’ve read in a long time.” The book is currently available for purchase, both as an e-book and as a paperback, at www.amazon.com.

JUNE 2018 | 37

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Paper Trail

The history of newspapers and journalism in Thailand is chronicled within a little-known museum in Dusit By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

ith government and constitutions alternating with regularity, Thailand’s press tradition has been anything but traditional. To start with, the kingdom’s first Thai-language newspaper was written and published not by a Thai citizen, but by American Dan Beach Bradley, a Christian missionary who spent 35 years in Siam. The two-column Bangkok Recorder, which also appeared as an English edition, was published monthly, and later bi-weekly, from 1841 to 1845, and later from 1865 to 1867. Although Siam was an absolute monarchy at the time, there were apparently no organic laws controlling the budding newspaperman.

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It wasn’t until nearly 80 years later that a second newspaper appeared in Bangkok, again at the hands of an American, Alexander MacDonald. The first issue of The Bangkok Post hit the streets on August 1st, 1946 as a daily Englishlanguage broadsheet numbering four pages and costing one baht. Now approaching its 72nd anniversary, the Post is Thailand’s oldest existing newspaper in any language. A solely Thai-language newspaper, Thai Rath, was founded in 1950 but didn’t begin publishing until 1962. The following year the Press Association of Thailand began operations, and as Matichon, Siam Rath, and other competing Thai newspapers came

along, its member roster swelled. I’d always wondered about the Thai Press Museum, at the Press Association of Thailand’s Dusit headquarters, and upon visiting I discovered that both the museum and press association are housed in the Chatri Soponpanich Building, which is directly opposite the main gates of Rajabhat University Suan Dusit. In addition to displaying historical exhibits and artefacts, the museum also maintains an archive of research papers and other documents pertaining to the Thai press and related careers. Although on the day I arrived it was during the posted opening hours, the museum door was locked shut. I had to go downstairs bangkok101.com

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS to the Press Association office to ask staff to unlock the door and let me in, a testament to how few visitors the museum generally sees. An alcove off the foyer contains a collection of historical photos, documents and royal biographies extolling the contributions to the field of Thai journalism from each Thai king since Rama IV, Significant space is given to the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who—as an avid documentary photographer in his younger days—was once a considerable inspiration for aspiring photojournalists in Thailand. Further on in the main museum hall, a reproduction of an early Thai editorial office features life-size wax figures of editors, reporters and typesetters standing and sitting at various antiquated machines, engaged in the pre-digital production process. Framed and hung in a prominent spot on the opposite wall is an 1893 copy of L’Illustration, a French newspaper which purportedly served as an early inspiration for Thai journalism after it reported on King Chulalongkorn’s official visit to Europe. In the centre of the room are several glass cases containing copies of 19th- and 20thcentury Thai newspapers, including original copies of the Bangkok Recorder and Siam Rath. A vintage allblack, all-metal manual Thai typewriter stands on a low table, and in a

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

nearby corner is a manual typesetting machine of similar age. Walls at the back of the exhibition hall support large posters detailing, in Thai (all museum labels are in Thai), the seminal achievements of Thailand’s pioneer newspaper personalities, including Dr. Bradley, Tor Wor Sor, Wannako, Kulaab Saipradit, Prince Pruttiyalarbpruttiyakorn, and Prince Narathippongprapan. However, no displays refer to the heavy censorship Thai journalism suffered during Thailand’s military dictatorships of the 1950s and 1960s. After the success of the democratic movement of October 1973, the new Sanya Dharmasakti government brought in a new constitution guaranteeing press freedom and abolishing censorship. Hundreds of home-grown newspapers flourished practically overnight, yet none are seen here. In 1975 Dharmasakti was succeeded by Kukrit Pramoj, one of Thailand’s foremost intellectuals and founder of the Thai-language newspaper Siam Rath, renowned for its strong opinions. As prime minister, Kukrit introduced the kingdom’s first press controls, establishing a 17- to 21-member committee to oversee the media based on ethical considerations. Thailand’s libel and defamation laws today are heir to this experiment.

Also missing from the museum’s displays is any mention of the bloody 1976 military coup, after which strict censorship of the media became the norm for 21 years. It wasn’t until 1997 that a new Thai constitution guaranteed freedom of the press. Thai press freedom, however, suffered another serious blow during the administration of Lt Pol Col Thaksin Shinawatra when he made a habit of suing journalists who were critical of the government. Subsequent military coups and intermittent democratic regimes since 2006 have done little to support a free press in Thailand. In a rotunda-like wing attached to the Press Association and museum, is a wonderful old restaurant called Rom Sai, which serves classic Thai, Chinese, and Isaan cuisine. It doubles as a karaoke bar, and even in the midafternoon you will find it full of Thai journalists and their friends sharing a bottle and singing a few tunes.

Press Association of Thailand Museum 299 Ratchasima Rd, Dusit Open: Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Admission: Free Tel: 02 669 7125 www.facebook.com/thaipres

JUNE 2018 | 39

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Street Vendors

Shops on wheels keep the economy moving – Part 2

fter staying in the same communal job for generations—rice farming—urban Thais happily hop between jobs, seeking advancement, fair income, independence, and carefree contact with people. Hawking goods streetside appeals to the Thai sense of freedom, as a flexible way to ensure that toil reaps fast, tangible results. Vendors become part of life’s rhythm. You know which cart is coming by its telltale sound. Ice cream trolleys tinkle with bells. Brush-sellers squeeze rubber-bulb horns, noodle vendors clatter chopsticks on bamboo, and rubbish recyclers induce a whoop from a bicycle-pump clamped to the frame. The black-dye man rattles his stringed bead upon a twirling twinfaced drum, a remnant of the Chinese ethnicity of the earliest urban vendor class. Now they’re likely migrants from Isaan, managed by a Sino-Thai businessman. For all its quality and charm, vending languishes at the low end of the social scale. Outdoor work also tans the skin in a land that prizes whiteness. When TV exposed some BMA inspectors taking regular bribes from food vendors in 2003, it was the victims who were blamed and shunted away to save face. In confrontations with officials, vendors rarely win. Encroachers settled for years get evicted at short notice, without compensation, while any new site tends to be far away. The 2014 coup began a ‘reclaim the pavements’ crackdown that emptied many vending streets and evicted famous Bangkok markets, such as Pratunam, Silom, Khlong Thom, Saphan Han, and the Pak Khlong Talad Flower Market. While food courts, markets and malls slowly encroach on custom, the sheer convenience and conviviality of the roving cart will ensure a demand from the millions of poorer Thais in the informal sector who depend on what academics now term the “urban foodscape”. Supply is ensured, too, as long as there’s a population poor enough to push heavy objects in this heat. However, that may change through the eviction of slum-dwellers to distant suburbs. An increasing proportion of vendors aren’t freelance, but franchisees of both famous brands and less obvious goods on consignment. Those quaint straw hats brush

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 40 | JUNE 2018

vendors wear don’t connote a particular tradition; it’s the uniform of those flogging the same company’s brooms, mops and dusters. Unsalaried mat franchisee Sawat must travel by bus to central Bangkok, from where he pedals at least 30 km a day around a zone the mat company demarcates. He earns a subsistence wage, and has to spend 20 baht to garage the cart his supplier owns. “It is good that I don’t have to stock anything,” he says in a Khon Kaen accent. “My thaokae (Chinese shop owner) is responsible for all costs. I will save up some money, then open a shop with my wife.” While vendors have been the ultimate free-wheeling entrepreneurs, their livelihood faces challenges through consolidation into zones, more regulation, and the upgrading of anything society’s arbiters consider “untidy”. Sanitary rules are often enforced, cart design is standardized, and road safety measures are bound to follow. With vendor strips now more tightly zoned, Singapore’s sterile ‘Hawker Centre’ concept now beckons. In the West, roving vendors largely disappeared before delivery made a comeback through internet shopping. While these concepts are growing swiftly in Bangkok, the Thai vendor must contend with ever more regimentation. You know vending faces trouble when people start to miss it. Bourgeois Thais now value old wooden markets for nostalgia as well as retro nightmarkets like Talad Rot Fai and Siam Gypsy Junction. Bangkokians also relish curated periodic nightmarkets in unusual locations, such as Art Box, Made By Legacy, and the Great Outdoor Market. Meanwhile, developers stop traders obstructing their façades, and corporate chains relish the ridding of streetside competitors. The purge endangers the entire market culture. Eventually, many curbside capitalists won’t mind relocating as hawking is their own step towards a shop, a business, a pickup truck, wealth. The father of Charoen Sirivatanapakdi once sold food on the street in Chinatown. Now as the brewer of Beer Chang, Khun Charoen is one of the world’s richest men.

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

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SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Underworld Art

Terrifying temple murals and ghoulish ghost shrines are all part of Thailand’s unique views on spirituality and life after death Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

Wat Saket

Wat Suthat

hosts, and the idea of hell, have been part of Asia’s daily spiritual life for centuries, with folktales of this sort being very popular in countries such as Japan, China, Cambodia, Myanmar, and Thailand. In France, a major exhibition entitled Ghosts and Hells: The Underworld in Asian Art, is on display until July 15th, 2018 at the Paris Museum of non-European Arts (Musée du Quai Branly-Jacques Chirac) and Thailand is particularly well represented in this show. A large part of the exhibition centres on the superstitions and beliefs of Thais who are both fascinated and frightened by supernatural phenomena. The

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Wat Saket

Theravada form of Buddhism that is practiced in Thailand incorporates the concept of the “Three Worlds” (traiphum), which, in turn, highlights the intimate link between hell, earth, and paradise. The world of “desire” forms the hell and earth, while paradise is composed of various stages—each level freeing one from contact with the strife of the lower world. Anyone on earth is always close to hell, but also to the first stage of paradise. The direction one goes in depends on one’s actions and behaviour. But if you can’t make it to Paris, you can still see underworld art right here in Bangkok. In many Thai temples

spectacular murals illustrate the life of the Buddha, and/or scenes from the Ramayana—an epic poem about the divine prince Rama—and some even depict daily life in Siam hundreds of years ago. However, there are also murals that show what eternal damnation can be like. Hell is always close at hand, as humans living in the intermediate world (hell and earth) are prone to desire and suffering. In Bangkok, two temples have standing statues of Buddha which are surrounded by hellish images; just a gentle reminder to believers that it is necessary to always behave well, in order to one day reach paradise and, ultimately, Nirvana. bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS Wat Suthat

In Phra Nakhon, Bangkok’s historical Old Town, there are two temples offering spectacular frescoes depicting hell. Start your tour at Wat Suthat Thepphawararam (often simply called Wat Suthat). It’s easy to find as it faces both the Bangkok City Hall and the Giant Swing. This sanctuary is one of the most important in Bangkok, and is considered a First Class Royal Temple. Construction was started in 1807, but not completed until 1843. Inside the Viharn (prayer hall), the eye is caught by a giant statue of Buddha, which has been transferred here from the ancient capital of Sukhothai and dates back to the 14th century. This giant Buddha image is, in turn, surrounded by some of Bangkok finest murals— covering the columns, walls, and doors of the structure. The murals mostly show classical Buddhist and Ramayana motifs, as well as scenes of Siamese history, but if you go behind the Buddha statue (to the left) the artwork on the back of one column is all about what hell could be—explicit scenes of torture with crucifixions and burnings, and assaults by demons, easily identified by their animal heads and human bodies!

Historic

Bangkok

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

Wat Saket

A five to ten-minute walk from Wat Suthat leads you to Wat Saket, better known among visitors with guidebooks as the ‘Temple of the Golden Mount’. If you climb to the top you’ll get a lovely panoramic view of Bangkok’s Old Town, but take time to visit the Consecrated Convocation Hall as well. From the Golden Mountain temple entrance, it is the second structure inside the compound, as well as being the first temple accessible from Worachak Road, making it easy to find. The admirable murals here depict large images of Buddha, as well as various deities and traditional demons. In the middle of the consecration hall, a sitting Buddha in Bronze—which has also been transferred to Bangkok from Sukhothai—sits majestically with a subdued smile, surrounded by murals showing paradise. But pass behind the statue and look more closely at the frescoes. Mostly hidden by Buddha’s body are scenes of hell spread all over the wall, reminiscent of the works of Dutch medieval painter Hieronymus Bosch. The paintings are gruesome, showing people being tortured and burned, and terrorized by demons with animal heads. The details are just amazing, and show what Thais would call these days, the “garden of hell”.

Wat Mahabut

Spirituality in Thailand takes many turns, but the spirits of the deceased are always present and generally benevolent to the living if taken care of (this is the purpose of the ever present “spirit houses” one finds here). However, people who die a violent death, or in an abnormal way, roam the earth as Phi (wild hungry ghosts). One of the most popular folktales about a ghost of this kind is Nang Nak (also know as Mae Nak). In the 19th century, a man going to war left his young (and pregnant) wife alone, and both the woman and the child died during his absence. When he returned, the man did not realize that his wife and child were now ghosts and so continued to live with them. The villagers, knowing his young bride had died months earlier, soon realize the man is spellbound by her ghost—but those who attempt to tell him the truth are killed by her as she is desperate to stay with her husband.

Nang Nak shrine

Many movies about Nang Nak have been made over the years and a temple, located in Bangkok’s Phra Khanong district, where she died, is now consecrated to her ghost. The temple, known as Wat Mahabut, is close to Habito Mall and the condominium complex along Pridi Banyomong Road, Soi 2 (close to the canal). Inside the temple compound, which looks like a traditional village, there is a hall where people worship a golden statue representing the story’s heroine. This gilded statue is dressed and adorned, and locals leave her offerings. Nang Nak benevolence is requested by many a young woman hoping to conceive, but kathoey (ladyboys) also ask her to intervene on their behalf so they can avoid having to go into the Thai army (where conscription is handled via a ‘lucky draw’ lottery system). Worshipping a ghost, taking care of the ancestors, and implore spirits for good luck—at Wat Mahabut you are plunged into the true soul of Thailand’s superstitious netherworld. Visitor Information: Wat Suthat is open every day until 6 pm, and is free of charge. Wat Saket (the Golden Mount) is open every day until 6 pm, but only the Consecrated Convocation Hall is free of charge. Both temples are easily accessible from Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat, Station Phan Fa Lilat Bridge. Wat Mahabut is equidistant from BTS stations Phra Khanong and On Nut (plus a taxi ride to Pridi Banyomong Soi 2). It’s open until late afternoon and is free of charge. JUNE 2018 | 43

Photo by Bruce Scott

Serene Buddha sits in a leaty enclave at Wat Phra Mahathat

AYUTTHAYA 101 L

Located just 85 km north of Bangkok, in the Central Plains of Thailand, lies the city of AYUTTHAYA, an ancient capital and modern metropolis rolled into one. Founded way back in the mid 1300s, it was the second official capital of Siam (the first being Sukhothai), before the Siamese capital was relocated to what is now modern day Bangkok. Ayutthaya is, in actuality, an island, located at the confluence of three waterways: the LOPBURI RIVER; the PA SAK RIVER; and the CHAO PHRAYA RIVER, which carries on southwards all the way to Bangkok and out into the Gulf of Thailand. For centuries Ayutthaya’s ideal geographic location—which, in a broader scope, lies between China, India and the Malay Archipelago—made it the trading capital of Asia, and even the world. By the start of the 1700s Ayutthaya had become (believe it or not) the largest city in the world, with a total of one million inhabitants. Merchants from Europe proclaimed it as the finest city they had ever seen, with gold-laden palaces and an array of trading vessels from all over the world docking in its port. Unfortunately, all this came to a quick end when the Burmese invaded in 1767 and almost completely burned the city down to the ground. Today, only a few crumbling ruins from this majestic era remain, mainly the stone temples and palaces which survived the fires. In 1991 the great cultural value of Ayutthaya’s ruins was officially recognized, and the city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today these crumbling stone edifices, which have their home in the AYUTTHAYA HISTORICAL PARK, attract hordes of visitors, many on package day trips from Bangkok. And while one can easily drive or take a coach bus or train to Ayutthaya from Bangkok, one can also arrive by boat. Daily tourist cruises travel up the Chao Phraya River, often stopping at KOH KRET and BANG PA-IN along the way. However, it’s a fairly lengthy trip—at least one whole day—so some of the larger boats offer overnight journeys. And speaking of overnight stays, upscale properties such as the KANTARY HOTEL AYUTTHAYA, and the newly opened SALA AYUTTHAYA now offer high-end hideaways for discerning travellers to this region, while the recently launched ISSARA BOUTIQUE WINERY HOTEL—tucked away in the hills northeast of Ayutthaya—offers a unique vacation spot with the added temptation of natural and biodynamic wines.

LUXURY CRUISE PACKAGE: If you have both a taste for adventure and a taste for the finer things in life, you can book passage on the Anantara hotel’s super luxury two-night, three-day AYUTTHAYA ADVENTURE CRUISE. Passengers travel upriver aboard a 20 metre, Colonial-style, über-deluxe river boat, and the itinerary includes stops to explore exotic temples along the way, as well as a visit to an elephant camp. The vessel is designed for two couples, and the two staterooms (20 and 25 sq.m) are fully air-conditioned, with elegantly tiled en-suite bathrooms, and comfortable super king-sized beds Priced at B89,000 net per cabin (based on double occupancy), the trip includes all meals and non-alcoholic beverages onboard, as well as tour programmes, private round-trip limousine transfers, and admission charges at designated places. Call ANANTARA CRUISES at 02 476 0022, or email: bangkokcruises@anantara.com.

TRAVEL | see & do ayutthaya

Roaming Amongst the Ruins

Exploring the grandeur of the Ayutthaya Historical Park

Wat Phra Mahathat

Words by Bruce Scott Photos courtesy of the Tourism Authority of Thailand

t its peak, between the years 1350 and 1767, Ayutthaya was the capital of Siam and the Kings in power ruled over an area larger than England and France combined. The island city had become one of Asia’s major trading ports—home to over a million people—and international merchants visiting from around the globe waxed lyrically about the gilded temples and treasureladen palaces therein. Unfortunately, the Burmese sacked the city in 1767, and a general period of instability followed until General Taksin, who reigned until 1782, relocated the capital of Siam to what is now the greater Bangkok region, further down the Chao Phraya River. Despite its fall from grace Ayutthaya continued on as a provincial trading town, but it’s once glorious temples and palaces were looted and eventually fell in ruin. Thankfully, during the 1950s the Thai Fine Arts Department began restoring the site, with major restoration work beginning in 1969. In 1991 the area became a UNESCO World Heritage

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site and today the dozens of ruins in the Ayutthaya Historical Park offer a glimpse into the city’s glorious past. The area that the ruins take up is quite large, and quite spread out, so although the major sites can be covered in a day on foot, bike rentals allow for a less exhausting tour. A two-day excursion allows for a more intensive visit, and also lets you admire the ruins lit up at night. The more famous sites each charge a small entrance fee, however a one-day pass, which covers the six major temples, can be purchased for B220. Most sites in the park are open daily from 8am till 5pm. WAT PHRA SI SANPHET: A definite park highlight is Wat Phra Si Sanphet, a temple used exclusively for royal ceremonies. The three massive conical chedis, displaying classic Ceylonese design, are all that remain, although a gigantic gold Buddha—16 meters high, and covered in gold—once stood within the royal chapel (it was taken and melted down by the Burmese when they ransacked bangkok101.com

see & do ayutthaya | TRAVEL the city). Nearby to Wat Phra Si Sanphet is Viharn Phra Mongkol Bophit, a sanctuary hall that is home to Thailand’s biggest bronze Buddha, measuring 17 metres high. This is an “active” temple compound, and throughout the day many people visit to worship the Buddha image.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

WAT PHRA MAHATHAT: Constructed in 1374, Wat Phra Mahathat was one of the most important temples in the Ayutthaya Kingdom. The rather large monastery features a huge central prang, a very large principal viharn and ubosot, and a great number of subsidiary chedis and viharns. The upper part of its once massive central prang has collapsed. Today only the base remains.

Phra Mongkol Bophit

Sacred Buddha Head bangkok101.com

SACRED BUDDHA HEAD: Within Wat Phra Mahathat there is one ancient relic that probably gets photographed more than all the others combined—a Buddha Head inexplicably tangled within the roots of a large Banyan tree. It’s an extremely sacred site, located not far from the entrance of Wat Mahathat, but nobody knows for certain how this Buddha head came to be so firmly entwined within the tree’s exposed roots. One theory is that the tree simply grew around the Buddha head during the period when the temple lay abandoned and overgrown. A second theory suggests that a thief moved the Buddha head away from the main temple to hide it, but the thief either never returned for his prize, or felt remorseful, or simply couldn’t move the heavy object any further beyond the walls that surround the temple. Either way, the abandoned stone Buddha head can be seen today nestled in the snaking tree roots that have grown around it. The presence of a guard and a small chain-link barrier around the head are there to remind visitors of the fact that touching the head is not permitted. Photos are allowed, but to be respectful these should be taken from a kneeling position. JUNE 2018 | 47

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WAT RATCHABURANA: The main Khmer-style prang (tower) of Wat Ratchaburana is one of the finest in the historical park. Built in 1424, and located immediately north of Wat Mahathat, it was constructed by King Borom Ratchathirat II at the place where both his brothers died (they killed each other in a fight for the vacant throne of Ayutthaya). When it was constructed it was accessible by boat as it was on the banks of a canal, but that waterway has been filled in for almost a century now.

WAT CHAIWATTHANARAM: One of Ayutthayaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most impressive temples is the Khmer-style Wat Chaiwatthanaram. Dating back to 1630, it was used as a Royal temple by King Prasat Thong and other members of the Royal family. The King built the temple as a means to gain Buddhist merit and as a memorial to his

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mother. Her ashes are enshrined in two square chedis flanking the ubosot on the east side of the temple. Interestingly, cannonballs and canons were dug up during excavations, leading historians to surmise that the temple may have been used as a fortress during the last war with Burma.

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ST. JOSEPHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CHURCH: Not all historic attractions in Ayutthaya are of Thai heritage. There are still remnants of the Dutch, Portuguese, and Japanese settlements in the region, and a strong Muslim community still exists to this day. But one of the prettiest European-influenced landmarks still standing is St. Josephâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Church, located to the southwest of the main island, right on the banks of the river. It was first built during the reign of King Narai, in 1666, as requested by the missionaries headed by Bishop Lambert de la Motte (whose remains lie interred within). It was destroyed during the 1767 Burmese invasion and lay in ruins for nearly a century. Restoration began in 1831 and was completed in 1847, adding more Romanesque details, including a series of attractive stained glass windows. bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | see & do ayutthaya

Photo by Bruce Scott

WAT YAI CHAI MONGKHON: To the southeast of the central island of Ayutthaya lies Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, or the ‘Great Monastery of Auspicious Victory’. The name refers to the battle of 1592 in which King Naresuan defeated the Burmese Army at Nong Sarai by killing the Burmese Crown Prince in single-handed combat on elephant back. However, parts of this historic structure, which is still an active temple, are said to date back to the 14th century. The main bell-shaped chedi is one of the primary landmarks of Ayutthaya, standing 60-metres-high and often draped in bright orange silk (although not always). Stairs on the east side lead up to the first terrace, and continue inwards to the domed chamber where the relics were contained (part of the original structure). In the outside gallery, around the base of the main chedi, rows of identical Buddha statues— newly sculpted in order to replace those which collapsed over time—sit solemnly along the walls of the square enclosure (sometimes draped in saffron robes and sometimes not). Another item of interest is the reclining Buddha image in the northeast corner of the grounds.

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Modern Museums

Get a feel for a different kind of history—virtual and otherwise! By Bruce Scott

JAPANESE VR STREET MUSEUM: Already a popular tourist attraction in its own right, Ayutthaya’s Japanese Village, located in the Ko Rein sub-district, now offers visitors a chance to experience a Virtual Reality Street Museum simply by downloading and installing a free app. The advanced technology portrays an engaging story—utilizing 96 million pixel resolution computer graphics—which depicts the historic naval trade journey of Yamada Nagamasa which, in turn, established Japan’s prosperous relationship with the 17th century Siamese Kingdom; a trade partnership that remains strong to this day. Visitors wishing to try the VR Street Museum simply scan a QR code with their smartphone, tablet, or other handheld device, which then allows them to see the surrounding landscape and city life as it would have been back in the 17th century.

The program comes with audio guides available in Thai, Japanese, and English, and it only functions when one is within the confines of the Japanese Village, which is open daily from 8am till 5pm. www.thai-japanasso.or.th/aboutus/japanvillage.html

MILLION TOY MUSEUM: Located in a blue and white house near Wat Banomyong, the Million Toy Museum—which opened 2008—is the creation of Krirk Yoonpun, an award-winning children’s book illustrator and professor of children’s literature at Silakarinviroj University. The artist came up with the idea back in 1982 after being inspired by a visit to the Kitahara Tin Toy Museum in Japan. Upon returning to Thailand, the professor spent the next few decades collecting toys for his own museum. The ground floor showcases Thai toys dating back to the Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, and Rattanakosin periods. On the floor above are vintage toys from all over the globe, as well as plenty of modern superhero action figures. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday, and on public holidays, from 9am to 4pm. Admission is B50 for adults, and B20 for children. www.milliontoymuseum.com bangkok101.com

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Fight Club

Attending Ayutthaya’s annual Muay Thai ceremony and celebration By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

very March, nearly 1,500 fighters from more than 50 nations around the world gather in the ancient ruins of Ayutthaya to pay homage to the masters and inherited wisdom of Muay Thai, Thailand’s legendary martial arts tradition. Held on the grassy grounds of the venerated Wat Mahathat temple ruins in the center of Ayutthaya, the three-day event centers around the final day’s wai khru, a ceremony in which disciple fighters from far and wide pay respect to their teachers, both past and present. The wai khru culminates in a group performance of the elaborate, dance-like combination of Muay Thai moves called ram muay. In Muay Thai, a 10-point arsenal of fists, elbows, knees, shins, and feet—hardened by years of full-contact training—batter away at virtually every point of the opponent’s body. The Thai word muay translates loosely into English as “boxing” or “martial art”, but the term derives from Sanskrit mavya, meaning “bind”, a reference to the binding of the fists with hemp (now replaced by padded boxing gloves for stadium fights), as well as the ceremonial bindings of the head and arm. 52 | JUNE 2018

Back during the Ayutthaya kingdom’s 400-year reign, when Muay Thai was a staple of Thai military culture, wai khru ceremonies were held annually. But after the sacking of Ayutthaya in the late 18th century, and the subsequent shift of the royal Thai capital to Bangkok, Muay Thai training splintered into various factions. These were re-united, at least in theory, following the founding of the International Muay Thai Federation (IMTF) in 1994, when the annual wai khru was revived at Bangkok’s National Stadium. Training and teaching standards were further united and codified with the formation of the Kru Muay Thai Association (KMTA) in 2003. Ayutthaya’s ancient temple sites are an appropriate venue for today’s wai khru, since Thais heavily identify the martial art today with the history of what was once the world’s grandest city, as European traders described Ayutthaya. London and Paris, at the time, were said to be mere villages in comparison. The earliest known Thai written reference to Muay Thai, found inscribed on palm leaf chronicles in Chiang Mai during the earlier Lanna era (1296-1558 AD), mentions a bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | focus on ayutthaya ferocious style of unarmed combat that decided the fate of Thai kings. But most of what is known about the early history of Thai boxing comes to us from Burmese and Cambodian accounts of warfare with Ayutthaya during the 15th and 16th centuries. When the Burmese first invaded the royal capital in the mid-16th century, a nineyear-old boy named Naret was among the many Siamese prisoners taken back to Hamsavati (Pegu, or modernday Bago, Myanmar) as hostages. The boy showed a keen interest in martial arts, and after he defeated the kingdom’s best Burmese fighter in a public bout at the age of 15, the Burmese court of King Bayinnaung allowed him to return to Ayutthaya.

When Naret later found himself crowned as King Naresuan (1555-1605) in the Ayutthaya royal court, he made Muay Thai a required component of training for all Thai soldiers. With his armies thus trained, Naresuan successfully led the Siamese to independence from Hamsavati rule. A fighter to the last, the king died in combat repelling yet another Burmese invasion during which he slew Crown Prince Bayin, the son of King Bayinnaung, on elephant-back. Another Ayutthaya king, Sri Sanphet VIII, further promoted Thai boxing as a national sport by encouraging prize fights and the development of training camps in the early 18th century. At this point Muay Thai began making the transition from a system of defense practiced only by the military to a spectator sport that could be enjoyed by all. In these early days, massive wagers and bouts to the death were not uncommon. Combatants’ fists were wrapped in thick horsehide for maximum impact with minimum knuckle damage. In grudge matches between particularly keen rivals, the hands were bound with glue-soaked cotton or hemp and then dipped in ground glass to inflict further injury. Tree bark and seashells were used to protect the groin from lethal kicks. Sri Sanphet VIII himself became an incognito participant in many of the matches 54 | JUNE 2018

during the early part of his reign, earning the nickname the ‘Tiger King’ for his ferocity and daring. The first commoner to earn lasting distinction as a fighter was Khanom Tom, one of 30,000 Thais taken prisoner during another attack on Ayutthaya in 1767. At a large Buddhist festival held in Yangon the following year, the Siamese pugilist was invited to represent the prisoners of war in a round of public boxing matches. Before a crowd of hundreds, Khanom Tom unleashed a barrage of bare fists, feet, knees, and elbows that polished off his Burmese opponent in a matter of minutes. The Alaungpaya royal court, hoping to save face, sent one Burmese boxer after another into the ring against the Siamese, only to see each one roundly defeated. After 10 consecutive victories, the Bago royal court was so impressed that Khanom Tom, along with many other Siamese prisoners, were set free and allowed to return to Siam. Khanom Tom’s heroic performance is said to have taken place on March 17th, and now, over two centuries later, that date is honoured as National Muay Thai Day with the annual wai khru. Beyond the actual ceremony that takes place in Ayutthaya on that date, attendees enjoy a daily roster of live Muay Thai matches in which fighters from all over the world do battle in a stadium-standard Muay Thai ring.

Another tent section is reserved for several local khru sak yan, masters who practice the art of Thai sacred tattoos using mai sak, the traditional metal needle-andshaft that applies blue-black ink through the epidermis by hand. At the tattoo tents, I watch as fighterdisciples perched on low stools receive designs believed to offer protection and power in the Muay Thai ring. Most are given smaller designs but a few master fighters are inked with Hanuman the Hindu monkey god, an icon for those who would emulate his courage, fortitude, and exceptional fighting skills. Back in the Ayutthaya era, Hanuman tattoos were done using actual monkey blood in the belief that this would help Hanuman’s possess the fighter’s body in combat. Nowadays sterilized tattoo ink is used. bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | focus on ayutthaya

Royal River Retreat

Bang Pa-In is a glorious Thai palace with a romantic backstory Words by Luc Citrinot Photos courtesy of the Tourism Authority of Thailand

ocated 60 km north of Bangkok, and 28 km south of the famed Ayutthaya Historical Park, stands Bang Pa-In, first mentioned in the chronicles of Dutch merchant Jeremias van Vliet. He reports about an illegitimate son of King Ekathosarot (1605-1611), who was shipwrecked on an island along the Chao Phraya River. He met a woman living on the island and from their union a son was bornâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;who eventually became Chief Minister and then monarch by usurping the throne. Under the name King Prasat Thong (1629-1656), this new monarch decided to build a monastery, and later a palace, with construction starting around 1632. The devotion of the King towards this small piece of land (the birthplace of his mother) changed the destiny of the island, which eventually became an official royal residence. Bang Pa In palace did not escape the terrible fate of the nearby royal capital Ayutthaya. Attacked and ransacked by Burmese troops in 1767, the palace was left in shambles and abandoned. It remained liked this for almost a century, until around 1850 when King Mongkut (Rama IV) decided to begin restoration. Bang Pa-In was thus back on the map, but it was under King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) that the palace would experience the most dramatic transformation. King Rama Vâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love for European architecture gave to the monarch the idea of turning the entire royal compound into a summer residence. Gardens became the heart of the new palace concept with

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focus on ayutthaya | TRAVEL residences for the King and his consorts being constructed around the newly created green spaces, with manicured lawns and statues inspired from the palace of Versailles in France, and Palladian villas in Italy.

reflecting in the water. By contrast, Phra Thinang Wehart Chamrun is the only structure at Bang Pa-In being entirely open for visitors. It is a munificent Chinese-style palace with its throne, carved columns, lacquers, and furniture in gold and ebony. Most of the materials were imported from China.

Romance is often associated with tragedy, and Bang Pa-In is no exception to that cliché. In 1881, a royal barge carrying Queen Sunanda Kumariratana, along with her son, capsized on the river next to the palace. As the royal rule was that commoners were not allowed to touch the royal family, on-lookers saw the Queen and her son drowning without making attempts to rescue them. Heartbroken, King Rama V had a commemorative marble obelisk built in the garden, with a poem written by the King integrated into the memorial.

Construction stretched from 1872 to 1889, and it became probably the largest collection of Europeaninfluenced palaces in Thailand. The various buildings dispersed in the gardens offer a curious diversity of all styles—blending Chinese, Thai, and European architectural styles (German, Greek, Italian, French and Portuguese). Strolling around the gardens reveals many charming details, such as wooden verandas, a Venetian or Portuguese style gothic tower, statues and bas-reliefs, ponds, and cottage houses which were once used for domestics. From the top of Ho Withun Thasana, a tower resembling a Portuguese lighthouse, visitors can look out over the entire park and its palaces. In addition, the exquisitely restored Warophatphiman Hall, which once served as a throne hall and royal living quarter, is a must-see as is Saphakhan Ratchaprayun, a two-storey building which was a residence of relatives of the King and is now an exhibition hall displaying the history of Bang Pa-In Palace. But not all the buildings are European-inspired. The Aisawan Thiphya, also known as the “floating’ pavilion”, is a tribute to the first palace of Bang Pa-in. It stands in the middle of a pond with its traditional Thai spires and gables bangkok101.com

Finally, across the canal delinitating the palace compound is Wat Niwet, a must-see attraction. The temple is the work of Austrian-Italian architect Joachim Grassi, and has been built like a Gothic church, with decorative heraldic symbols, stained-glass, and a high wooden ceiling. It epitomizes the fascination of Siamese kings for European architecture some 130 years ago. VISITOR INFO: Bang Pa-In is open daily from 8am to 5pm. Tickets are B100, and proper attire is required (no short skirts, short pants, or sleeveless shirts). Tel: 03 526 1548. JUNE 2018 | 57

Photo by Bruce Scott

The stunning 15-metre-high Buddha at Wat Sri Chum

SUKHOTHAI 101 T

he modern day city of SUKHOTHAI is small—the population is just over 35,000—but thanks to ruins of the ancient city, which are preserved and on display for all at the stunningly beautiful SUKHOTHAI HISTORICAL PARK, the number of tourists making pilgrimages to this region of Thailand is increasing all the time. The term Sukhothai translates as “the dawn of happiness”, and this area was the first capital of ancient Siam (founded sometime between 1238 and 1257). It was ruled by many kings, the most dynamic being KING RAMKHAMHAENG, the monarch credited with creating the Thai alphabet. There’s a statue of the King in the Historical Park, and just outside the park entrance sits the RAMKHAMHAENG NATIONAL MUSEUM—located on Charodwitheethong Road—which houses a collection of ancient remnants, artefacts, and antiques. The city existed till 1438, but by 1350 the Siamese capital had moved to Ayutthaya, and for the next few centuries the ruins and relics of ancient Sukhothai sat abandoned. What wasn’t pilfered by thieves was ravaged by the elements and/or overtaken by the encroaching jungle. Fast forward to the 1960s, and the reclaimed ruins began to see a great deal of restoration, culminating in 2003 with the 70 sq.km Sukhothai Historical Park being designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Perhaps the best way to see everything in the park is by using a bicycle, and many shops opposite the main park entrance have bikes that can be rented for about B30 per day. The highest concentration of ruins is in what is known as the Central Zone, with 11 ruins in its 3 sq.km area. The is the most “park-like” section, and the grounds are interspersed with moats, lakes, paved pathways, and bridges leading to some island-bound ruins. Outside the main park area one of the must-see sites is WAT SRI CHUM, a 13th century temple enshrining the largest Buddha image in the province. The huge statue measures 15 metres high and 11 metres wide, and the right hand of the image is covered with gold leaf, applied by Buddhist devotees who come to pay their respects. But there’s more to see here aside from the ancient ruins, including craft markets, handicraft villages, and museums. Meanwhile, the hotel market now boasts premium properties such as the SRIWILAI SUKHOTHAI, the LEGENDHA SUKHOTHAI, the SUKHOTHAI HERITAGE RESORT, and LE CHARME SUKHOTHAI RESORT, all of which offer upscale accommodation for discerning travellers. The city does have an airport, however it is privately owned by Bangkok Airways and so all incoming flights are via this airline. Thankfully, low cost carriers offer regular flights to and from the neighbouring town of PHITSANULOK, which is about a one-hour drive from the historic park. You can also take a coach bus—but not a train— from Bangkok, and the journey is about five to six hours long.

TRAVEL | see & do sukhothai

The Ancient Capital

A wander through the Sukhothai Historical Park offers visitors a glimpse into birthplace of Siamese culture

Words by Bruce Scott Photos courtesy of the Tourism Authority of Thailand

he ruins of the ancient Siamese capital city of Sukhothai—a word that translates as “the dawn of happiness”—are preserved and on display for all at the stunningly beautiful Sukhothai Historical Park. In 2003 the park was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and as a tourist attraction it is exceptionally wellmaintained, very clean, and there’s plenty of signage in English. The site covers an area of approximately 70 sq.km, and for many the best way to see everything in the park is by bicycle, which can be rented from the shops opposite the main park entrance (B30 per day). There is also a guided tour by electric tram available (B60), or you can attempt to do it all on foot. The park has an admission fee of B100 (B20 for Thai nationals), and visitors are charged 10 baht for each bicycle brought into the park.

Wat Mahathat 60 | JUNE 2018

Wat Si Sawai

Wat Mahathat is one of the most spectacular ruin sites, with a large seated Buddha figure set amongst the pillars of a now ruined sala, and a central chedi flanked by two standing Buddha figures. Nearby is Wat Si Sawai, one of the oldest temples in Sukhothai, which consists of three large Khmer style prangs (towers) and two viharns (assembly halls). The central tower measures about 15 metres tall and all three towers are adorned with carvings of mythological creatures, such as multi headed Naga serpents, Makaras (a sea creature), and Kala, a mythological monster often found depicted on Angkor temples. Several sites face the small lake, located in the middle of the park, including Wat Tra Phang Ngoen, which features a viharn—of which only the base and columns that once supported the roof remain—facing a serene bangkok101.com

Photo by Bruce Scott

see & do sukhothai | TRAVEL

Wat Tra Phang Ngoen bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | see & do sukhothai

Sunset over Sukhothai

Pasan Market

Cultural show

Evening Mini Light & Sound Show 62 | JUNE 2018

King Ramkhamhaeng memorial

seated Buddha image. The principal chedi here is topped with a lotus bud finial, characteristic for the Sukhothai style, and there are two niches (one on each side) that contain standing and walking images of the Buddha. Another temple with a lake view is Wat Sa Si. In fact, it’s actually on an island in the lake, and visitors need to cross a small bridge to access it. The seated Buddha here sits before a well preserved, bell-shaped, Singhalesestyle chedi set on a square base. According to a stone inscription, the chedi was built to enshrine the ashes of King Li Thai of Sukhothai. Other park attractions include the many bell-shaped chedis dotting the park (in-between the main temples), and a memorial statue of the great King Ramkhamhaeng. The park is open from 7am till 7:30pm each evening, and the ruins are dramatically lit once the sun goes down. In addition, on the 1st, 2nd, and 4th Friday and Saturday of each month the park stays open till 9pm and the Pasan Market—a small ‘Walking Street’ area set up near the King Ramkhamhaeng statue—becomes a gathering place where visitors can buy food, drinks, and handicrafts, and enjoy some traditional cultural entertainment. This is also the spot to watch the free Sukhothai Mini Light & Sound show, which is held on the first Friday of each month, starting at 7pm. The performance illustrates the history and prosperity of the Sukhothai Kingdom, and the ancient temple known as Wat Sa Si forms the backdrop of the visually impressive display. bangkok101.com

see & do sukhothai | TRAVEL Outside the main park area one of the must-see sites is Wat Sri Chum, a 13th century temple enshrining the largest Buddha image in Sukhothai. Located in the North Zone, the temple is known for its roofless mondop enclosure, from which the Buddha statue is partly visible from outside through a triangular opening. The huge Buddha image within measures 15 metres high and 11 metres wide, and the right hand of the image is covered with gold leaf, applied by Buddhist devotees who come to pay their respects. Also located in the North Zone is Wat Phra Phai Luang, which contains the remains of a number of dilapidated structures, plus a large Khmer-style prang with stucco reliefs. Visiting this largely untouched set of ruins gives one an idea of how much restoration work has been done on the neighbouring temples. There are several other historic sites to visit, some located quite far from the Central Zone, but if you only have time for one more make it Wat Chang Lom, a 14th century temple where the main chedi has an army of 39 elephants carved into its square pedestal base. In Buddhism, elephants are considered a symbol of mental strength, and these auspicious animals are often seen guarding temples.

Wat Sri Chum

Wat Chang Lom

MUSEUM TOURS RAMKHAMHAENG NATIONAL MUSEUM: Located on Charodwitheethong Road (right near the main park entrance), the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum houses a collection of ancient remnants, artefacts, art objects, and antiques that were excavated from the ruins of both the Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai Historical Parks. The exhibits present a vivid display of lifestyle, customs, traditions, cultural habits, beliefs, and artistic styles of the inhabitants during the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s open daily from 9am till 4pm, and admission is B150 (B30 for Thai nationals). Tel: 05 569 7367 SAWANKHAWORANAYOK NATIONAL MUSEUM: Open in 1984, and located on Wang Phinphat (Sawankhalok), the Sawankhaworanayok National Museum features sculptural art from various periods, the most interesting being Sangkhalok crockery from the Sukhothai era, and Sangkhlalok items retrieved from sunken vessels found in the Gulf of Thailand. The museum is open every day, from 9am till 4pm. Tel: 05 564 1571.

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TRAVEL | see & do sukhothai

Si Satchanalai Historical Park

Cycling is the perfect way to get around in Sukhothai

HOLY SHRINE

Si Satchanalai Historical Park

If time permits, a visit to the Si Satchanalai Historical Park, situated on the bank of the Yom River, offers visitors another opportunity to roam amongst the ruins of the grand monuments of ancient Siam. The park is located in Tambon Mueang Kao, which is about 50 km north of Sukhothai City. Set among hills, the 13th- to 15th-century temple ruins here are stylistically similar to those that lie in the more routinely visited Sukhothai Historical Park, but the setting here is much more rural and peaceful. The park itself measures well over 7 sq.km in area and is surrounded by a 12-metre-wide moat. It’s open daily from 6am till 9pm, and admission is B150. 64 | JUNE 2018

The sacred Phra Mae Ya Shrine, which is situated in front of the City Hall, is highly respected by Sukhothai residents. It houses and idol of Phra Mae Ya, a stone figure with a long face, tapered chin, and long halo, who is dressed as an ancient queen. The idol is about 1-metre-high and is said to have been built during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great as a dedication to his late mother Nang Sueang. Every year—sometime in late February—the Phra Mae Ya Fair is held here.

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live like a local | TRAVEL

Baan Na Ton Chan Humble homestay and community tourism project

Words by Bruce Scott Photos courtesy of the Tourism Authority of Thailand

ocated on the on the outskirts of Si Satchanalai, Baan Na Ton Chan offers tourists a homestay experience with facilities and activities that allow visitors to learn more about village life in Thailand’s Sukhothai province. Na Ton Chan village itself is small rural settlement which is surrounded by many Chan trees—a type of sandalwood—which is where the village’s name come from. Over the years the community has successfully developed itself to be an attraction in its own right. Traditional handicrafts are made here, including baskets, furniture, dolls, chopsticks, and cloth made using traditional weaving techniques. Guests are also encouraged to try Khao Poep the region’s famous local noodle dish.

Fabric weaving

The Homestay Project has given the opportunity to local people to develop careers in community-based tourism. The accommodations might not be as luxurious as a 5-star hotel, but most visitors enjoy the rustic facilities and the overall hospitality of the villagers (newcomers receive a wrist strap from the elders of the village during a welcoming ceremony). bangkok101.com

The village Leisure Centre sells handmade products and the Fermented Mud Cloth is one of the most popular items. The origin of this cloth stems from the fact that that the women of the community always went out to work in the rice fields in their long skirts, the bottoms of which became soaked in mud. When they returned home, they washed their skirts and put them up to dry. To their surprise, the mud-stained parts became soft to the touch Mud soaking and acquired subdued coloured tones that the women found attractive. After this discovery, entire pieces of cloth were soaked in mud, leading to the production of the famous mud-soaked textile. Apart from weaving cloth for their own use, villagers who are farmers have also developed their skills in weaving Kheng— round, open, bamboo baskets used to carry their produce (much of which is grown organically for sale Organic harvest in area markets). homestaynatonchan.blogspot.com JUNE 2018 | 65

TRAVEL | made in thailand

Sukhothai Noodles

Prepare to be “bowled over” by this delicious regional specialty By Bruce Scott

lthough the base ingredients remain the same, there are quite a few variations on the regional specialty known as Sukhothai Noodles. In Thai language they are commonly referred to as kuaytiaw Sukhothai, or kwit-teow Sukhothai, but any way you slice it this dish is Sukhothai province’s very own culinary claim to fame. The main ingredient is noodles— flat noodles made from rice, to be precise—while the protein can be either pork, pork skin, chicken, or any combination of these aforementioned meats. Another staple ingredient is cut green beans, as well as copious amounts of chili. Lime juice is another important ingredient, as are crushed peanuts, while fried garlic, Thai chili paste, and cilantro are usually used as

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seasonings (sprinkled on top at the time of serving). It’s spicy, sour, and meaty, with the lime juice offsetting the slightly sweet meat stock broth, which can be served on the side (heng) or in the bowl like a soup (sai nam). Not surprisingly Sukhothai province is probably is the best place to find this dish, and it’s available in nearly every restaurant in main city of Sukhothai. It’s also readily available just outside the entrance to the Sukhothai Historic Park where visitors can find all sorts of casual eateries serving up hearty bowls of this classic noodle dish. Enjoy! bangkok101.com

Legendha Sukhothai Stunning resort located by the ancient remains at Sukhothai Historical Park

Legendha Sukhothai offers visitors the feeling of an authentic Thai Sukhothai experience, something you just won’t ﬁnd anywhere else. The exterior of the resort is designed to replicate the look of a Thai traditional village-like landscape, whereas the stunning interiors are decorated in Thai contemporary style. There are 64 spacious rooms to choose from, in 3 different sizes: the Superior Room, the Deluxe Room, and the 2 Bedroom Villa. All accommodations are set amidst lush scenery and offer guests a range of modern facilities. It’s all part of the SERENATA standard, which stands for providing a perfect stay within a cultural and historical concept. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served at the Nam Khang Restaurant which has a longstanding reputation for serving true Thai gourmet fare. The restaurant offers indoor seating as well as an open-air dining area with a wooden balcony overlooking the stunning Mae Rampan canal. Recreational facilities, include a swimming pool, Thai cooking class, and traditional Thai massage, and there’s even a free classical themed dance show presented in partnership with the Thai Cultural Dance School. The property is also just minutes away from the Sukhothai Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The resort provides bikes for guests to cycle around the surroundings and take in all the culturally fascinating temples and other sights. LEGENDHA SUKHOTHAI

A Member of SERENATA Hotels & Resorts Group 214 Moo 3 Tambon Muangkao, Amphur Muang, Sukhothai, THAILAND For enquiries, booking, etc. call +66 (0)55 697 249 www.legendhasukhothai.com • www.serenatahotels.com

TRAVEL | upcountry now

INTERNATIONAL FIREWORKS FESTIVAL June 8-9

The night skies will be lit up when the 2018 Pattaya International Fireworks Festival gets underway. This is an annual competition between multiple countries, all vying to be crowned this year’s winner. It’s a huge event that includes parades and live music, plus traditional and contemporary dance. The festival takes place at Central Pattaya Beach, and on the first day each country gives a short snippet of their firework finesse. Then, on the second evening, each nation puts on a full 45-minute performance. The celebrations run from about 6pm onwards and admission is free. It’s sure to be a “blast”!

PHUKET INTERNATIONAL MARATHON June 9-10

The Laguna Phuket International Marathon is a race event in which anyone can participate, as it features five different scenic courses to choose from: full marathon (42 km); half-marathon (21 km); fun run (10.5 km); community walk (5 km); and kids’ run (2 km). The race courses weave through rolling hills and quaint villages, as well as rubber plantations and beaches, and on the eve of the event there is a ‘Pasta Party’ at the Laguna Beach Resort, where runners can stock up on the carbohydrates needed for the big race—and meet fellow runners as well.

PHI TA KHON FESTIVAL June 16-18

Each year, in the village of Dan Sai in Loei province, the visually spectacular Phi Ta Khon Festival gets underway; held to worship spirits, the protectors of the village, and to ask for plentiful rain for the coming farming season. The most notable element is the profusion of people in the street parade carrying wooden phalluses and wearing brightly painted monster masks— carved from coconuttree trunks, and topped with wicker rice steamers—but the celebrations also include traditional dancing, music, and more. On the second day villagers gather at Wat Ponchai to listen to sermons recited by local monks.

CITY PILLAR SHRINE CEREMONY June 20-24

The annual Samut Sakhon City Pillar Shrine Ceremony is a celebration held in the town of Samut Sakhon (also known as Mahachai), which is located at the mouth of the Tha Chin River—a tributary of the Chao Phraya River. Each time the local fishermen venture out to sea they pay respect beforehand by lighting a firework in front of the city pillar shrine (for good luck). During the yearly festival, visitors are invited to join in on these rituals and watch the city pillar shrine parade—which takes place on the land AND in the water. 68 | JUNE 2018

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Baba Beach Club Hua Hin A music lover’s paradise on the shores of the Gulf of Thailand

As one of the latest branded exclusive beach club hotels and private residences in Hua Hin, the luxurious Baba Beach Club Hua Hin is managed by the team behind the internationally acclaimed Sri Panwa in Phuket. Envisioned to fuse together brio and bluster, with glamour and grace, this getaway property is located within the spacious Thew Talay Estate area, conveniently located between Cha-am and Hua Hin. With a 160-meter private beach offering unrivaled oceanside access, as well as a beach club area and restaurant, it’s a truly idyllic tropical retreat. There are 18 exclusive suites with private sea view balconies and inﬁnity-edge pools, as well as 11 gorgeous three- to ﬁve-bedroom luxury pool villas. All accommodations have been designed to create a unique, modern, and cozy feel, whilst maintaining a maximum of privacy. The suites and residences all

feature private pools, private balconies, soaking tubs, and spacious bathrooms fully equipped with luxury amenities. Resort facilities include a courtyard garden, ﬁtness center, cool spa, and restaurants, as well as a stylish Neo-Colonial-style beach club. Offering panoramic views of the Gulf of Thailand, and a beachfront swimming pool, this boisterous beach club is the perfect spot for guests to chill out both day and night. It’s a music lover’s paradise, with a fun and energetic atmosphere! The Baba Beach Club is just a 2-hour drive from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport, and 15 minutes away from downtown Hua Hin. It also has great facilities for corporate meetings, special events, and romantic beachfront weddings.

758 Phetkasem Road, Cha Am, Phetchaburi Tel: +66 (0)3 289 9130

huahin@bababeachclub.com • www.bababeachclub.com

ART

| ART & CULTURE

Afternoon Person

New exhibition features paintings, drawings, large-scale sculpture, animations, and site-specific installations

ollowing his previous solo shows—Awkward Relationship at JAM Cafe (2016) and Mnusychāti, at Speedy Grandma (2017)—the new exhibition by artist TAE PARVIT will feature a broad range of works; from paintings and drawings to large-scale sculpture, animations, and sitespecific installations. Impulsive and sentimental, his new pieces continue to present emotions and feelings as well as perspectives of today’s generation through expressive brushstrokes, lines, colours, and forms. Every studiobased work featured has its own narrative; a unique action that somehow links it all together. All elements featured in the artworks, such as flower vases, potted plants, or human forms in actions and interactions, express his stream of consciousness—that certain moment when he creates these pieces. Both the front and the main galleries will showcase Parvit’s life and thoughts during the six-month period of his experimental gestation. As the artist himself says: “I like to draw the head first. Then from there, I would just draw and manage within the canvas or paper space as I go on with the work. If there would be any errors in the process, I just ignored them and went with the flow.” Such spontaneity allows his works to communicate through accidentally beautiful images and characters where viewers are invited to freely contemplate and comprehend his images in all ways possible. In addition, a limited-edition boxset and zine of the 28 newlydrawn animated shorts in the show—which debuted on the exhibition’s opening day—will be available.

AFTERNOON PERSON runs until JUNE 17 at BANGKOK CITYCITY GALLERY (13/3 Sathorn Soi 1). Viewing hours are Wednesday to Sunday, from 1pm to 7pm. For more information, call 083 087 2725. www.bangkokcitycity.com

facebook.com/bangkokartmap bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

UNTIL JULY 1 Prelude

Subhashok The Arts Centre Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10am-5:30pm, Sun, 12pm-6pm Tel: 02 662 0299 | www.facebook.com/sacbangkok

Having spent more than three years creating fantastic works of art including paintings, sculptures, and installations, Wittawat Tongkeaw returns to the Bangkok art scene with his latest solo exhibition. The subject matter in this series is still an investigation into the systems and regimes in Thailand—a place that is rich in beliefs and faiths. Since Thailand’s society is driven primarily by discourse and myth, the artist invites audiences to explore a bit the various phenomena occurring within Thailand’s social strata. It’s an exploration that weaves its way through a variety of symbolic objects.

JUNE 2-29 Deeper in Still Life - World - Life Numthong Gallery at Aree

72/3, Aree Soi 5, Soi 7 Phahonyothin Rd. Viewing hours: Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Tel: 02 617 2794 | www.gallerynumthong.com

These still-life works, in black and white surroundings, were all meticulously created but with irrational leaks of colourful lights seeping into the near-perfect paintings of artist Phattharakorn Sing-Thong. The misfitting colours in turn seem like certain shapes that exist but cannot be touched; blended into the atmosphere, nature, things, people, and the self. The artist searches for veracity permeated around him using drawing as a study method. But beyond studying, he has here transformed what he has learned into pieces of art for others to experience the atmosphere of “still life” from different angles—searching for what lies “deeper”.

JUNE 3-15 Metamorphosis Nowhere BKK

6F, THA City Loft Hotel, Ekkamai Soi 6 Viewing hours: Daily 11am-10pm Tel: 099 394 4417 | www.facebook.com/nowherebkk

Russian-born, Bangkok-based art photographer extraordinaire Olga Volodina presents works from her Metamorphosis series—a conceptual collection of startling black and white photographs printed in limited edition. Her photography projects are always very personal and sincere, intended to evoke an emotional connection within the viewer. For Olga, photography is an exploration of how the camera translates her feelings, thoughts and attitudes. A human is always the main source of inspiration for the artist, and it is here that her controversial inner world comes to life; conveying a message within a single frame. 72 | JUNE 2018

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

JUNE 4-27 Designing Informality H Gallery

201, Sathorn Soi 12 Viewing hours: Daily, 10am-6pm, Tue by appointment Tel: 085 021 5508 | www.hgallerybkk.com

The full title of this exhibition is Designing Informality: Inhabitable Chariots for Daily Rituals, and it consists of installation-based works by INDA, otherwise known as the International Program in Design and Architecture at Bangkok’s Chulalongkorn University. Directed by Ajarn Sabrina Morreale and Lorenzo Perri, it showcases the work of 20 students from the 2nd year program; exploring ideas of identity, folklore and rituals, which will be translated into an architectural assemblage. Through pictures, drawings, and physical models, the works create a hybrid synthesis between a market stall and a religious baldaquin.

JUNE 9-30 Portrait of the Mind Sathorn 11 Art Space

404, Sathorn Soi 11 Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 5pm-midnight Tel: 02 004 1199 | www.sathorn11.com

The exciting show features the art of Kanika Jansuwan, a new and fresh talent on the Bangkok art scene. It is described as the result of a personal search—a long-term dialogue between opposite aspects; seen and unseen, rational and irrational. In the words of the artist herself: “This exhibition presents a variety of sensations and emotions, expressed at once for the animal aspect and the human body. Both minds connected, all differences are blurred: pain, happiness, sadness, joy. All emotions can be seen as one, expressed from a human-animal totemic character that reminds us we are all one.”

UNTIL JUNE 24 Sea of Corrosion

Ardel Gallery of Modern Art 99/45, Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10:30am-7pm, Sun, 10:30am-5:30pm Tel: 02 422 2092 | www.ardelgallery.com

This exhibition by artist Tadayoshi Nakabayashi, whose full title is Sea of Corrosion / From Ground to Light, presents etching and aquatint technique by this Japanese master. The images are rooted in the idea of corrosion; the corrosion of the artist’s body in concert with the corrosion of the actual copper plates used in the printing process. The work of art represents tension and harmony between white paper and black ink which in turn become a metaphor for light and dark, day and night, and life and death. He seeks calm in the environment where light infuses his prints. bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

Silpa Bhirasri Memorial Museum

A contemplative space dedicated to the “Father of Thai Modern Art” Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

queezed between Silpakorn University and the Thawornwatthu Building, along Sanam Luang, stands the almost unnoticed Thailand Department of Fine Arts—located in a historical building bearing Italian architectural flourishes, and friezes designed in Italian Art Nouveau-style dating from the late 1920s. The current Fine Arts Department used to be part of the Silpakorn University of Arts, and the institution was the brainchild of Italian-born Corrado Feroci, a historic personality considered to be the “Father of Thai Modern Art”. Born in Florence, Italy, in 1892, the young artist attended the Florentine Royal Academy of Art and

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earned the title of Professor of Fine Arts following his first exhibition of sculpture. Feroci moved to Siam in 1923, to teach western sculpture to Thai students, and rapidly became the official sculptor of King Rama VI. His statue of King Rama I, located at the entrance to Phra Phutta Yodfa Bridge (aka: Memorial Bridge), gave him fame and recognition within the Kingdom. He was honoured in 1932 by the Order of the White Elephant, and a year later established Thailand’s first school of Corrado Feroci fine arts. During World War II, Feroci changed his name, gaining Thai nationality and becoming, officially, Silpa Bhirasri. His school of fine arts became, in 1943, the bangkok101.com

museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

Silpakorn University of Arts, with Bhirasri installed as the Dean. The university quickly became Thailand's leading institution for art. The influence of Bhirasri is evident in the work of modern Thai artists of that era, as he taught contemporary Western-style in both sculpture and figurative painting. However, he barely followed the evolution of art that was happening around the world after World War II, and thus imposed a rather conservative vision on Thailand’s arts scene.

Silpa Bhirasri in his studio circa 1960 bangkok101.com

The Silpa Bhirasri Memorial National Museum is located on the grounds of the Fine Arts Department property, and it is the building where Bhirasri used to have his workshop. It has, for the most part, been preserved just as it used to be when Silpa Bhirasri taught at the university. Two large windows let light stream into the room, which is filled with various memorabilia. His desk is taken up with an old typewriter, a phone, and a vintage phonograph, as well as some of his letters, documents, sketches of monuments, and casts and small versions of various statues. Another charming detail is Bhirasri’s own palette of paints and brushes, kept within a display case. The studio has been kept in roughly the same condition that it was back in 1962, the year the artist passed away. As a museum it is somewhat small, but it houses a large collection of memorabilia which, in turn, tells a lot about Silpa Bhirasri’s vision of Thai arts. In the main room, there are various sculptures and paintings that he selected during his years as the Dean. The museum is open Monday to Friday, from 9am to 4pm, and is free of charge. After checking out the memorial museum, take some time to visit the Hall of Sculpture at Silpakorn University. Opened in 1999, the hall was the original place for models to be sculpted, and contains many of the historical plaster casts made by Bhirasri for the statues he designed. In addition, there are his models of some of Bangkok’s most famous civic landmarks, such as Democracy Monument and Victory Monument. JUNE 2018 | 75

ART & CULTURE | art event

Hotel Art Fair

From June 9-10 over 30 galleries and artists will take over the stunning 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok

rt has always played an important role in the life of the 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok. The hotel displays, on a daily basis, hundreds of pieces by celebrated Thai artists such as Ithipol Thangchalok and Panya Vijinthanasarn, but for two very special days this month this luxury hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 39 plays host to this year’s Hotel Art Fair Bangkok (HAFB), which is now in its 5th edition. See some of Thailand’s most established and upcoming artists completely take over 34 suites, spread over six floors, exhibiting—and hopefully selling—as much of their work as they can. HAFB is an initiative launched by Farmgroup, a Bangkok–based creative and design consultancy. The idea, replicated in many cities worldwide, is to treat art lovers to a show in a warm and welcoming location, rather than in a convention centre or trade show arena. Anyone who attended the 2017 HAFB at the Volve Hotel will know what to expect—an amazing display of talent and creativity in an equally inventive and visually captivating location. Last year’s event attracted almost 3,000 people—a mix of Thais, Bangkok expats, art dealers and collecttors, and curious tourists—and even more visitors are expected to attend this year.

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Over 30 galleries and artists, including such art world heavyweights as Joan Cornellà the acclaimed Spanish cartoonist and illustrator, g13 Gallery from Malaysia, and WE Gallery from Joan Shenzhen, China, will Cornellà be taking part in the event. Meanwhile, local artists including Pomme Chan, Atty Tantivit, and Viranod Buranasiri, will be display their latest masterpieces. In total, it’s estimated there will be 500 individual pieces of artwork on display. The Hotel Art Fair Bangkok gets underway on the evening of June 8th—an invitation only event—but it’s fully open to the public on the 9th and 10th, from 10am to 8pm. And, best of all, admission is free. For information visit: www.facebook.com/farmgroup, or www.137pillarsbangkok.com. bangkok101.com

cinema scope | ART & CULTURE

Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott

Welcome To Germany

Oasis: Supersonic

The Last Reel

Myn Bala: Warriors of The Steppe

our outstanding films of diverse genres, by four dynamic directors are being screened this month— all for free!—as part of the River City Bangkok Film Club’s June line-up. All films are subtitled in English (and Thai where possible), and take place at River City Bangkok in the new RCB Forum room (2nd floor, Charoen Krung Soi 24). The screenings begin at 4pm sharp each Saturday, and an RCB boat service will leave Saphan Thaksin Pier at 3:30 pm and a return RCB boat service will leave the RCB Pier at 7:15 pm. Reservations for the screenings can be made by emailing rcbfilmclub@gmail.com. The series opens on June 9th with the 2016 comedy Welcome To Germany, in which a Nigerian refugee enters the life of a dysfunctional German family and slowly starts making a difference to all their lives. The event is supported by the Goethe-Institut and the Embassy of the Federal Republic of Germany, who will serve drinks and snacks after the screening, while the Ambassador of Germany, H.E. Peter Prügel, will introduce the film. Next up, on June 16th, it’s the 2016 Danish film Walk With Me, which deals with the trauma-syndrome that many soldiers face when they return from war, and find that they have to fight the war from within themselves. The event is supported by the Royal Danish Embassy, who will serve drinks and snacks after the screening, and The Ambassador of Denmark, H.E. Uffe Wolffhechel, will introduce the film. The RCB series continues on June 23rd with The Last Reel, a 2014 film from Cambodia directed by the country’s first woman film-maker, Kulikar Sotho. The film weaves the sordid past of Cambodia with the snazzy present, showing the re-creation of a film that had almost been destroyed by the genocidal Khmer Rouge. The event is supported bangkok101.com

PunkSinger

Harry Benson: Shoot First

by the Royal Embassy of Cambodia, who will serve drinks and snacks after the screening, and The Ambassador of Cambodia, H.E. Mr Long Visalo, will introduce the film. Finally, on June 30th, don’t miss Myn Bala: Warriors of The Steppe—a rare chance to see a film from Kazakhstan. This story is based on the life of the mythical 18th century Kazakh warrior-hero Sartai who fought against the Dzungars, a merciless tribe who ruled over the Kazakhs. The film event is supported by the Embassy of the Republic of Kazakhstan, who will serve drinks and snacks after the screening, and The Ambassador of Kazakhstan, H.E. Ms Raushan Yesbulatova, will introduce the film. Meanwhile, over at the Foreign Correspondent’s Club of Thailand (518/5 Ploenchit Rd, Maneeya Center, Penthouse), there are four special film screenings this month which are part of the ongoing Monday night FCCT documentary series. All films are shown with Thai subtitles, and a discussion follows each screening. The films begin at 7pm, and admission is free for members (B150 for nonmembers). There’s also an optional buffet for B250. This month’s doc series has a musical theme, and begins on June 4th with The Punk Singer (2013) which explores the career of Bikini Kill frontwoman Kathleen Hanna. On June 11th it’s the rock doc Oasis: Supersonic (2016), which profiles—not surprisingly—the band Oasis, England’s surliest 90s-era rockers. On June 18th you can catch Harry Benson: Shoot First (2016), a film about the photographer Harry Benson who earned global renown with his candid shots of the Beatles and other celebrities. Finally, on June 25th it’s Louder Than a Bomb (2010), in which four high-school teams from Chicago prepare for, and compete in, the world’s largest youth poetry slam. www.fccthai.com JUNE 2018 | 77

Art & Culture

Photo Feature

Inspiration for The Sustainable Community The winners of the 7th edition of the White Elephant Art Award competition are currently on display at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Artists across the Kingdom were invited to submit their artworks, with no restrictions of techniques and materials, and entries this year included painting, sculpture, graphic arts, and mixed media. There were 165 submissions in total, from 150 different artists, and the judging committee made their decisions regarding awards on February 27th. The 57 specially selected award-winning pieces then went on display the BACC on April 7th, where they will remain until June 24th of this year. The White Elephant Art Award is sponsored by Thai Bev PCL, and the theme this year was “Inspiration for the Sustainable Community”. The theme was inspired by the ‘PublicPrivate Collaboration’ initiative—a new strategy intended to move Thailand’s economy forward. It follows in the footsteps of the concept referred to as the ‘Sufficiency Economy Philosophy’, which was initiated by the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej. The objective is to increase the income for communities, thereby creating a foundation economy so that people can have “sustainable happiness”. Artists were encouraged to create realistic and figurative artworks based on the aforementioned

theme, with a focus on the importance of connecting agricultural with both product transformation, and communitybased tourism (an initiative which greatly increases the community income). This year, the entry that won the White Elephant Prize was an oil painting on canvas from Boonnam Sasood entitled The Descendant of Thai Farmer, which utilizes a pointillism technique (facing page, below). The equally prestigious Grand Prize went to an embroidery work by Nilraya Bundasak entitled Harvest Gathering, in which she depicted farmers harvesting rice together in bright yellow fields (facing page, top). Meanwhile, the CEO Award Prize was awarded to an acrylic painting on linen by Sippakorn Kaewthamai entitled Sufficiency Mind, in which he portrays the peaceful condition of mind under the influence of both Buddhism and the Sufficiency Economy Philosophy (pictured above). These three aforementioned pieces, along with the artworks that received awards of excellence and honourable mentions, make a total of 20 prize-winning pieces that will be on display. In addition to these, the BACC showcase will exhibit an additional 37 specially selected artworks for the exhibition, bringing the total number of artworks on display to 57 entries.

Divinely delicious dishes at Sensi restaurant

| FOOD & DRINK

AROY restaurant revisits required

Every time a restaurant of renown changes its head chef, foodie fanatics are presented with one more reason to make a return visit. Case in point is SENSI (Naratiwas Soi 17), a long established, award-winning Italian eatery that recently welcomed STEFANO MERLO as their new Executive Chef. Stefano has held the reigns at JoJo (St. Regis) and Rossini’s (Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit), and with the assistance of Sous Chef JOSS LINDE, he’s redesigned the restaurant’s famous ‘5 Sensi’ tasting menu. Stand out dishes include: Ocean trout with Jerusalem artichokes; and Linguini with almond cream and mussels. Or, for a more extensive journey of Italian cuisine, the chef will create a bespoke menu tailor-made for your table—available in 7 or 9 courses. www.sensibangkok.com

doin’ the bangkok shuffle Chef’s in this town swap their place of employ so often it’s come to be known as “doin’ the Bangkok shuffle”. But change is almost always good, and with that in mind, fans of acclaimed modern Thai fine dining restaurant NAHM are anxiously awaiting to see what new Head Chef PIM TECHAMUANVIVIT will do as she takes over from the legendary DAVID THOMPSON, the man who previously held that post. Similarly, Michelin-plated 80/20 restaurant no longer has Canadian chef ANDREW MARTIN (he’s gone to the ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB), but the culinary team of NAPOL JANTRAGET and SAKI HOSHINO are soldiering on, and recently unveiled a whole new menu of inventive, eclectic fare that puts bold new spins on classic Thai ingredients. www.comohotels.com/metropolitanbangkok/dining/nahm • www.facebook.com/8020bkk

steak your claim With a focus on the very finest meats, THE STEAKHOUSE CO. (9/8 Patpong Soi 2) is Bangkok’s latest entry in the carnivore-centric dining scene. Chefs KRITTIN ‘MOO’ KERDNAIMONGKOL (from Chanthaburi) and Chef RUURD JAN WOUTER MOESHART (from The Netherlands) work with first-rate produce, creating an exciting and mouthwatering menu with a wide range of cuts—from rib-eye to sirloin, tenderloin to Porterhouse—always to the diner’s specific order. Menu staples include: U.S.D.A. Certified Angus Prime, Australian Black Angus (120-day dry-aged), and Australian Wagyu. Other menu highlights include Karabuto pork chop, classic Italian osso bucco, and a filet mignon and lobster tail surf & turf. www.thesteakhouseco.com

wine dinner duo Foodies who love their wine will want to know about two gourmet BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO wine pairing multi-course dinners to be held simultaneously on June 7th. One will be at the beautiful TABLES GRILL restaurant, at the Grand Hyatt Erawan (call 02 254 6250), and the other will be at ROSSINI’S, the premier Italian restaurant at the Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit (call 02 649 8364). Both dinners begin at 7pm and the price is B3,800++ at Tables Grill, and B4,800++ at Rossini’s. For more detailed information, see our Wine News & Events (pg. 105).

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JUNE 2018 | 85

FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

Street & Seafood Night - Wine-and-Dine By The River

Shangri-La Hotel | 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu Tel: 02 236 7777 | www.shangri-la.com/bangkok Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok’s Next2 Café invites diners to chill out by the river and experience a mouth-watering mash-up of scrumptious ‘Street & Seafood’ every Saturday night—continuing till June 30th. Enjoy the best of Bangkok’s five famous street food (Hainanese-style Chicken rice, Cantonese-style roasted duck, etc) as well as a wide range of authentic international dishes highlighting premium seafood from live-cooking stations. The price is B2,200 net for adults, and B1,100 net for children between 6 and 12 years old, or diners can opt for a set of five street food dishes for only at B888 per person.

Echoes of Thai Kitchen Past at Apsara (Dinner Cruise)

Banyan Tree Bangkok hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 | www.banyantree.com/en/thailand/bangkok The Banyan Tree Bangkok’s Apsara restaurant has curated an all-star selection of authentic Thai favourites—dishes that deftly showcases the country’s multifaceted food culture—with a list of utterly mesmerizing delicacies like: Steamed Thai chicken dumpling; Crab meat and corn in crispy pastry cup and spicy minced duck spring roll; Southern Thai-style braised beef curry with roti; and Prawn banana blossom salad. Enjoy this Royal Thai set menu, served aboard a riverboat plying the waters of the Chao Phraya River, for B2,500 net per person. Boat departs from the River City pier at 8pm.

Four-Course Tasting Menu Served 55 Floors Above Bangkok

Red Sky at Centara Grand at CentralWorld | 999/99 Rama I Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 | www.centarahotelsresorts.com Red Sky is enticing diners with a brand-new ‘Tasting Menu’, available till June 30th, priced at just B2,955++ per person (wine pairing add B1,999++). The menu features a fusion of premium imported ingredients that create a contemporary dining experience like no other. Starters include a light and fresh lobster salad, followed by German white asparagus, while mains include the chef’s signatures: pan-seared snow fish with mini ratatouille salad, crunchy fennel, and lemon butter sauce; and beef tenderloin and beef cheek served with a tomato confit, olives, capers, and basil mash potatoes.

Early Summer Seafood Treats at Yamazato

The Okura Prestige Bangkok | 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com To celebrate summer the chefs at Yamazato Restaurant are serving up authentic tastes of Japan with special Gozen lunch platters and a multi-course Kaiseki dinner. Highlights at lunch include simmered conger eel and shrimp, with mushroom and sesame cream sauce. Dinner highlights include grilled eggplant and sake-steamed scallops with shrimp, mushrooms, plus grilled Spanish mackerel with tomato miso sauce. These meal deals are available from June 4th to 24th, at lunch from 11:30am till 2:30pm (priced at B1,300++), and at dinner from 6pm till 10:30pm (priced at B 4,500++).

Chef Guangfan Mai, and an East-Meets-West Dinner

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok | 48 Oriental Avenue Tel: 02 659 9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok Chef Guangfan Mai masterfully creates authentic Chinese food with top-quality, fresh ingredients. This month, The China House is delighted to welcome this ‘Prince of Abalone’ who will be serving exclusive 8-course set dinners—with a focus on organic and sustainable produce—from June 26th to 29th (priced at B9,888 net per person). Then, on Saturday, June 30th, enjoy a very special Cantonese-French collaboration as the Chef de Cuisine from Le Normandie, Arnaud Dunand Sauthier, joins Chef Guangfan Mai in a collaborative dinner priced at B8,888 net per person.

Michelin Star Celebration at J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

U Sathorn Bangkok hotel | 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 | www.jaime-bangkok.com To celebrate the Michelin star awarded to J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain, Chef Jean-Michel Lorain himself will return to Bangkok—from June 21st to 24th—to create favourite signature dishes from the past 3 years. Highlights include: Creamy garlic soup with potato confit and chili bavarois; Brittany sardine terrine with marinated cucumber and miso gelée; Pan-seared scallop with a pumpkin purée; and Roasted Maine lobster with an endive fondue. The 8-course menu is priced at B4,899 per person (available for lunch and dinner), while the 5-course menu is priced at B2,999 per person (lunch only).

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chew on this | FOOD & DRINK

Farang Food Firsts

read about Bangkok long before I ever visited. Stories of waterway markets, the ghost of Mae Nak, and bullfrogs that could eat a toddler. I marvelled at intoxicating tales, descriptions of paint parties, water parties, runaway tuk-tuks, reclining golden Buddhas, legendary crab omelettes, and accidental liaisons with ladyboys. As a relative newcomer to the city, everything has a first-time revelation to it, making things appear dramatic. But then, this is a dramatic city. Everything from the chaotic traffic and tooting motor scooters, to the multitude of street food—life in this tropical climate requires some adjustment. But I’m slowly edging my way in. The purpose of this monthly column is to address some of the above, along with new restaurants, new locations and new experiences I’ve sampled since arriving here. It allows me to expand outside of the reviews and chef interviews in the following pages, offering space to delve deeper into my city research. Or, as the British-born, Bangkok-based writer Lawrence Osborne describes it, “a whimsical wandering around the cultural block”. For easy immersion, I’ve taken to street food. It’s cheap (mostly) and fresh (mostly), and it’s here in abundance.

David J. Constable is a British writer currently residing in Bangkok, where he is the Food Editor of Bangkok 101 magazine. He has written for a wide range of publications, including Condé Nast Traveller, Tatler, and Jamie Oliver magazine. He is currently working on his first book, a collection of travel assignments. www.davidjconstable.com bangkok101.com

I’m seen, though, as a kind of cuisine invader by the local vendors, who view me as an inquisitive farang gambling on my order. In the city’s hawker centres I’ve become a curiosity as locals point and giggle at my Thai delivery and choice of order. I’m sure, by now, they’ve given me my own humorous moniker: “Fatty Farang” or the likes. My greatest frustration in the food courts is the Thai-office-lunch-brigade and their table-nabbing ways, hogging empty places with a nondescript lanyard and then disappearing for half-an-hour to wait in line and order (they’re worse than Germans at hotels reserving sunloungers with carefully placed towels). Although recently, I have adopted the same lanyard technique at lunch. If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em. Mostly I’ve been eating kuaytiaw neua (beef bone soup) with thick strips of bovine and knobbly bone, but added packet noodles, mixed in a rich broth; all for about 60 Baht. Or there’s pla pao (grilled fish), which are gutted and stuffed with pandanus leaves, lemongrass, and coated in rock salt before grilled over charcoal. And I’ve even tried bpaak bpet yang (grilled duck beaks). But I’m yet to order poo (crab) with confidence. I drove out to the extremities of the city to a southern Thai seafood restaurant called Beer Hima, with chefs Tim Butler (Eat Me) and Arnie Marcella (Bunker), and ate lobster sashimi while knocking back glasses of Sprite with lobster blood. I’ve also found the best khao soi this side of Chiang Mai at Eats Payao, with tender beef shank and thick-cut noodles in a rich and creamy - but hot - soup. I’ve enjoyed excellent yakitori and sizzling pork belly at the izakaya-style JUA, discovering that their “Unami Bomb”—orecchiette with uni butter—is probably the single greatest bowl of food I’ve ever eaten. And, of course, I’ve frequented Smalls for late-night shenanigans, staying out way past curfew… on more than one occasion. JUNE 2018 | 87

FOOD & DRINK | review

Espresso

All-you-can-eat buffet spread lets you indulge your cravings

y problem with buffets is that it’s just too much under one roof. A crosspollination of international cuisines mounted for the greedy consumption of guests. But then, if Italian-JapaneseThai-French-Cantonese fusion tastes this good, all of those dishes that straddle cuisines and cannot be categorized, then why not? And so it was that I ventured to the hotel buffet at Espresso restaurant on the mezzanine level at the InterContinetal Bangkok. Here they push and promote a “truly indulgent gourmet dining experience” with the buffet available every day of the week (B899++). A Seafood Buffet (B2,150++) is also available every Friday to Sunday evening, and there’s a ‘Bubbly Brunch’ on Sundays (B2,200++). I began light with some Temari and Uramaki sushi, to which I added a disappointing left-out-for-too-long soft shell crab. “Soft” being the crucial word, not hot, fresh, and crispy, as you come to expect from first-rate soft shell crab. It was an okay start, nothing spectacular, but then things kicked up a notch. A seafood platter is choked with crustaceans: oysters (French Fine de Claire), mussels (Australian and New Zealand), prawns (Thailand), crab legs and claws (Chile), and a thick lobster tail (Maine)—all mounted on ice. I dipped in-and-out, enjoying all of the fiddly gratification of ripping, tearing, crunching, and cracking of claws, pulling out fleshy clumps of meat. I could eat this stuff by the fistful. The whole point of a buffet is to pile-up your plate and experiment; a little bit of this, a little bit of that, a whole lot of that stuff over there, and oh! is that a lobster tail? No one judges you at buffets, so I return to the stations. Some setup with “help yourself” options, while others have chefs on-hand, waiting to prepare your à la minute course. The untouched mountain of chilled fruits suggests that guests are in the

88 | JUNE 2018

habit of fulfilling their meat and sea cravings over any fruity fibre. I’m drawn to a small sign that reads: “Foie Gras Station B1,400”. Ohhh come on, you’re not feeding and indulging me enough; you have to go and add a station for fattened goose liver, knowing full well that it’s impossible for me to refuse such luscious, silky, fatted gourmet offal. The special station is open until June 30th and features sea bass with foie gras emulsion and Wagyu beef patties with foie gras. There’s even unctuous cuts of foie gras on rice (aka: Foie Gras Sushi) with strawberries and a drizzle of balsamic. I order five, each of the plumped-up livers a generous, marbled slab of melt-in-the-mouth naughtiness. Noodle soup comes with a choice

of meat or seafood, and as with each of my visits to the stations, a member of staff offers to carry my bulging, spilling-over plate back to my table. I test the dim sum—har gow, siew mai, and char siew bao—and order bottled water to help the digestive flow of such glutinous consumption; although free-flow bubbles, wines, beer, and cocktails are also available, at a cost. By David J. Constable

Espresso

The InterContinental Bangkok 973 Phloen Chit Rd. Open daily: noon-2:30, 6pm-10:30 Sunday Brunch: noon-3pm Tel: 02 656 0444, ext. 6430 bangkok.intercontinental.com/dining-espresso bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Seasonal Tastes Here’s another fine mess you’ll want to get into

he Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok‘s bright and spacious dining venue Seasonal Tastes is offering a unique midweek dining experience that’s as much good eating as it is original. Part picnic, part dinner meal, and part seafood explosion aftermath footage, the new Sea-ToTable promotion should satisfy the most ardent seafood cravings, and features a welcome weekend-vibe dining option right in the middle of the workweek. Served up in stylish metal buckets, this flavourful crustacean potpourri mingles crab legs, scallops, squid, and shellfish, all prepared with the diner’s choice of sauce, as well as a choice of supremely nibble-friendly sides. Now here’s where things get interesting—and a little bit messy but, admittedly, quite a bit of fun as bangkok101.com

well. While grab-it-yourself silverware is near at hand, the table setting for this saucy seafood soirée is not your everyday noshing kit. It consists of plastic gloves, a bib, and table-width wax paper sheets, onto which the richly aromatic bucketsful of oceanfresh seafood are dumped in piles of sensationally seasoned deliciousness. But in its decidedly “let your hair down” serving approach, the house keeps its collar crisp—so to speak—in the most delightfully cheeky way possible. After pouring out the contents of each bucket, waitstaff use the edge of the bucket to deftly trace out a sassy streak of sauce, drizzled artistically for an unexpected last-minute touch of culinary panache. Something else that makes this hump day promotion even more attractive is the flexible pricing, with

buckets available in single serving Small Portion plus 1 Side Dish (B399), duo serving Medium Portion plus 2 Side Dishes (B599), or sharing-friendly Large Portion plus 3 Side Dishes (B799). So whether it’s an after-work solo dinner, weeknight date, or an evening out with the gang, you’ll find a bucket of seafood that’s a perfect fit. Meanwhile, side dish options include French fried potatoes, baked potatoes, mashed potatoes, spinach gratin, and sautéed vegetables. Sauce-wise, we very much liked the Japanese curry and black pepper sauces, just two of a selection of flavours that has Tom Yum, hot basil, tomato & chili, and Chinese Mala rounding out the other offerings. In addition, a selection of appetizers beckons with comfort food faves like nicely toasted Garlic Bread and Battered Onion Rings (B120/ea.) along with Golden-Fried Seafood, Fried Shrimp, Baked Mussels with Cheese and, our favourite, Fried Crouton-Crust Shrimp Cakes (B250/ea.). Of the two wines available by the glass—one red, one white—we found that a glass of Concha y Toro Frontera Chardonnay (B260/B1,300, glass/bottle) served as a gustatory reference point amid the plethora of flavours we encountered. The 7th floor restaurant itself features a bar and two distinct dining areas, with a modern-elegant motif that incorporates nautical-themed highlights, like a faux ripple reflection effect projected onto the high ceiling, while a full-height window wall offers a sweeping view of the bustling Sukhumvit-Asoke junction area. The Sea-To-Table promotion at Seasonal Tastes runs every Wednesday and Thursday, from 6pm till 10:30pm. By Chris Michael

Seasonal Tastes

7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily: 6am-11pm Tel: 02 207 8000 www.westingrandesukhumvit.com JUNE 2018 | 89

FOOD & DRINK | review

Latest Recipe

New brunch offers a relaxed and indulgent approach to wining & dining

t’s easy to shudder at the thought of hotel buffets. I check into a hotel for privacy because I don’t want to be mixing with the grubby public, let alone joining them for bacon and eggs in the morning. And don’t even get me started on what happens if a stranger gets their coffee before me. I’m forced to question loudly and emphatically “WHERE’S MY COFFEE?” I’m just too important for that to happen. Le Méridien Bangkok understands this. That’s why their new La Dolce Vita Lifestyle Buffet, available in their first-floor Latest Recipe signature restaurant, encourages guests to stay longer and indulge—free from timeconstraints and customer hassle. I’m told that the launch of this 90 | JUNE 2018

new buffet concept is to demonstrate how the Le Méridien brand places great importance on the celebration of cultures and cuisines. With a “distinctly European spirit” that is expressed as La Dolce Vita, the popular Italian phrase meaning “the good life” or “enjoying pleasure and indulgence”. The brunch offering is available throughout lunch (B900/ person), dinner (B1,100/person), and as a Sunday brunch (B1,700/person). Each timing actively encourages guests to eat, drink and, to put it frankly, wallow in excess. A series of chef stations dot the dining room floor with an army of chefs cooking meals to order. So often buffets are the dumping ground for odd bits and leftovers, but here,

the concept is raised to something higher, with fresh ingredients across an international and eclectic mix of cuisines. Best of all, there’s no standing in line, elbow-to-elbow with other hotel guests, fighting over the last pain au chocolat. You can either order from your table or take a walk around the stations, peering into frying pans, observing pastry boards, and inspecting the worldly ingredients. Then, leave a peg with your table number and the order will be prepared and delivered within a few minutes directly to you. There’s a make your own salad corner; freshly-baked wood-fire pizzas and bulging calzones; a fresh seafood counter with an impressive display of mussels, clams, oysters, blue crab, baby octopus and banana prawns; and a pasta station with made in-house pasta varieties cooked fresh to order. I ordered a porcini and Parmigiano risotto, then collected some salmon sashimi on my way back to the table. It wasn’t long before I returned for a scallop tartar topped—I’m not ashamed to admit—with several crab legs each thick with meat, plus a sticky mango ice cream with all the trimmings (whipped cream, mini marshmallows, chocolate chips, and a caramel macaroon). Along with free-flow plonk and specialty coffee, there is a bubbly free-flow package too, offering guests Bollinger champagne in a package priced at B2,355 per person (Sundays only). So, when a glass of champagne is offered to me, I graciously accept. And then, it’s back to surveying the stations for maybe a confit duck leg or a chocolate éclair but definitely more ice cream. By David J. Constable

Latest Recipe

1F, Le Méridien Bangkok, 40/5, Surawong Rd. Open daily: Mon-Sat, 12pm-2:30pm, 6:30pm-9:30pm, Sun, 12:30pm-4:30pm Tel: 02 232 8888 www.latestrecipebangkok.com bangkok101.com

café review | FOOD & DRINK

Pooch Cafe

New dog-friendly cafe opens its (kennel) doors on Sukhumvit

he naming of a dog is a role of great responsibility. You’re giving something a lifelong identity but then there’s also the fun of being creative with it, too. Like naming celebrity children. Not that I’ve ever done it, but I can imagine. I didn’t become a dog person until my late-twenties when my ex-girlfriend told me that her dog would always be the most important person (a “thing” surely) in her life. Ever since I have had a dog-shaped hole in my life, but Pooch Cafe has filled that neatly. The recently opened dog-friendly cafe, off Sukhumvit Soi 31, opened to fill a need for puppy love in the Bangkok dog cafe market. Apparently, that’s a thing. As it is in London, Tokyo, and New York. There are already cafes in this city with meerkats and raccoons (honestly), and there are endless pussy-parlours, so why are dogs falling out of favour with only a limited number of puppy-friendly options? Sim Thuan Ping and his partner Lizhu Bao opened their café in part to provide space for their 11 dogs, as well as a place for locals to hang out with their pets. Offering canine bangkok101.com

comfort in what they described to me as “poochtherapy”—a wrist-slashingly ghastly term that surely can’t be real—guest dogs mix with the resident pups, climbing, rolling, and falling over one another. You enter through the narrow storefront and exchange your shoes for flip-flops. There’s coffee (B85-B150) and cake (B98-B120 a slice) downstairs, although there’s a worrying lack of any other human food, given its “cafe” status. Upstairs a doggy-daycare facility is kitted out with low-level counter tops, cushion seating, colourful and squeaky chew toys, and a fenced-area for overexcitable mutts, should it be needed. I entered the upper level, careful to tip-toe around any pee or rogue puppy-poos, and not to squash any of the teeny-weeny pups under my Size10s. The puppies couldn’t have been less interested. That was until I dipped a hand into my pocket to reveal “treats”. They all recognized the opportunity and came bounding over, their rubber-like tongues hanging from their mouths in anticipated excitement.

There’s Charlie and Coffee and Leo and Cloud and Cookie and Vanilla and Finn and Burger and Mike, to name but a few. It’s actually difficult to count them all, but they’re all smart little critters—using their cuteness to win favour and, in return, gain treats. That’s dogs for you: intelligent creatures. That’s why they’ve been into outer space, though they didn’t know why and they didn’t come back. The cafe offers a pack of ‘Pooch Treats’ free of charge, with additional bags available for purchase at B25 each. Other packages are available, and for B325 you can have the treats along with a printable coffee, so you can have your pooch’s face appear on highly-Instagrammable coffee foam. That’s the world we live in now. And the dogs know it. Welcome to Bangkok 2018. By David J. Constable

Pooch Cafe

245/14, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 061 563 4733 Open daily: 11am-9:30pm www.facebook.com/pooch-cafe-bkk JUNE 2018 | 91

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread with Dan Bark

From Michelin-stars in Chicago to Michelin-stars in Bangkok, Chef Dan Bark is blazing a trail of his own

t’s easy to think when approaching Upstairs at Mikkeller that you’ve taken a wrong turn or misunderstood the directions. Is this a restaurant, let alone a Michelin-rated one? On my visit, a crowd had gathered out front and were knocking back craft beers with a jovial enthusiasm. The Mikkeller running club appeared to be out in force, glistening with sweat as they chugged on bottles of IPA. But where’s Chef Dan Bark among all this revelry? I soon learn that the split-level building serves two very different 92 | J U N E 2018

functions: with the dedicated craft beer brigade downstairs, and the cozy Michelin-starred restaurant located upstairs. A self-explanatory restaurant name I should have taken at face-value. Upstairs, the small restaurant seats around 20 diners and is simple in that industrial-Scandi design we see more and more of in Bangkok. And there’s Chef Dan in his chef whites, smart, professional, and with the best hair in the business. Previously of the three Michelinstarred restaurant Grace in Chicago,

working under Chef Curtis Duffy for three years, Korean-born Dan Bark moved to Bangkok four years ago with his girlfriend—now wife—Fay Tragoolvongse. They met in 2011 while working at Avenues restaurant, in the Peninsula Chicago, and now own and operate Upstairs at Mikkeller. Their efforts were rewarded in December 2017 when the launch of the Bangkok Michelin Guide awarded them a star. “It was a little surprising, in all honesty,” admits Chef Dan. “I was filled with excitement and gratitude though. Our hard work and bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

sacrifices had been rewarded. I always thought we were creative enough, but you never know. Plus, there’s the beer thing.” He’s referring to the ten-course Tasting Menu paired with six Craft Beers, an unconventional pairing that’s helped set the restaurant apart. The idea of beer with your meal is not what you’d call traditional, and is something Chef Dan admits was a completely foreign concept to Bangkok diners. “At first we had backpackers who were here because they love beer but you could tell that they didn’t really get the food. And then we got local foodies, who didn’t want to drink beer. They wanted wine.” Arriving in Thailand with a fine-dining repertoire, Chef Dan began serving casual à la carte fare at Mikkeller’s brewery before moving upstairs to focus on a more concentrated Tasting Menu. Confident in his kitchen output and how ingredients were complimented by the beer, he was unwavering in his approach and continued to promote and push his cuisine alongside the likes of new and unusual pale lagers and coffee stouts. Having a beer sommelier on-hand helps. Guests are not only poured beer in a variety of different glassware to compliment the beer—from bangkok101.com

Mikkeller Whatever Belgian Wit (4.8%) to AleSmith Speedway Imperial Coffee Stout (12%)—but are given a background of the origin, fermentation process and why that particular tipple was chosen to pair with the dish. Chef Dan understands the food-beer pairing may seem a little avant-garde for a restaurant such as this, on an almost-hidden Soi in the Ekkamai neighbourhood, but what’s wrong with being revolutionary and blazing a trail of your own? “Guests are surprised with the outcome,” he says. “It’s not bland, run-of-mill beer we’re serving. We’re pairing fine beers with fine food. If our guests can learn something or we can introduce them to new beers and news ways of dining, then that’s a success.” The kitchen team is small, four people max, all Thai; a tight ballet around a miniscule open-kitchen, barely big enough to flip a pancake. “My team are great,” he says in praise. “All loyal and hardworking. Like me, they dream big and have big goals.” Each course is written on a whiteboard, under which is an inventory of ingredients: hibiscus, thyme, truffle, black garlic, pomelo, fennel, Hawaiian salt, etc. “We stick local as much as possible, researching new ingredients

all the time, but my standards are high, so I’m not limited by it. We import some things like Wagyu from Japan and lamb from Australia.” As well as an obsessive, craftsman-like approach to ingredients, there is also an evident fixation on technique. I watch as he leans across the kitchen counter, inspecting plates and using tweezers to add finishing garnishes, but then out comes a coffee syphon to which diced coconut, cucumber, lemongrass, and coriander is added. The fragrant blend of herbs is boiled in stock to infuse and then served over a tortellini course with delicious results. It’s theatre but also a smart utilization of old-school coffee apparatus that cooks and percolates the broth. In a local market with an ever-growing interest in craft beers, Chef Dan has emerged as a pioneer of the food-beer pairing, moving an archaic idea away from pub-grub and elevating it to fine-dining, even Michelin, status. Working with Denmark’s Mikkeller Brewing, he has created a new, fashionable pairing and a style of dining that only seems to increase in popularity and interest. Interview by David J. Constable

www.upstairs-restaurant.com JUNE 2018 | 93

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

Café Community

ne of my favourite ways to explore the city is to get lost on the small streets of Old Bangkok. On one of these excursions— while walking toward the community of Nang Loeng where the local food market is located—the peacefulness of a shophouse caught my attention. It was ancient, clean, quiet, and serene. I pivoted and walked inside. The words Nam Heng Lee were written in Thai and Chinese above the doorway. It was a coffee house. But unlike so many modern day cafés, it didn’t have a coffee counter or even a coffee machine. The handsome highceilinged space was minimalist. A few small white marble café tables paired with bent-wood chairs against faded stucco walls. Customers were patiently attended by two older sisters with cropped white hair. I sat at the table closest to them; better for conversation and to observe the rhythms of the place. I peeked into the back room and saw their simple coffee counter—the coffee strainers, the steam rising from the boiling hot water, the cleanliness and order—and thought to myself, “This will be good!” I addressed my momentary thirst by ordering o-liang (black ice coffee) with a little sugar. The snacks menu

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 94 | JUNE 2018

was brief: only two items. I ordered both—khai louk, or poached egg, and khanom pang sangkhaya, or bread with egg custard. One of the sisters was assembling a little wooden car. She explained that she learned woodworking from the carpenters who used to have a furniture-making studio behind this very house. Using the skills she acquired, she fixes all the old wooden chairs in the café. Both of the sisters get up and disappear through the back door to prepare my order. One made o-liang utilizing the sock-like coffee filters that have been used for generations to make kafae boran, a traditional coffee. Her movements are precise and humble; she has clearly been doing this for many years. She then poured hot water from the same pot to poach the two eggs. Meanwhile, the other sister was preparing toast and sangkhaya. I am taken in by the simplicity of this type of coffee shop—there are so many stories in every cup. The sisters then tell me the story of the shop itself, which was founded by their father more than 70 years ago. He was a Hainanese Chinese immigrant who saved up money until he had enough to rent this particular shophouse.

Nam Heng Lee shop embodies the legacy of the old café community where people would flock to such coffee shops, converse, and read newspapers. These days, it is not quite the same, and “to-go” orders are popular. I guess life is busier, leaving no time to sit. My order, by the way, is delightful. I love the way they serve the poached eggs—in a glass cup with a dash of soy sauce and white pepper. The eggs are warm and have the perfect texture for me. After finishing my savoury selection, I slide to my sweet dish. Eating sankhaya is as simple as dipping the toast into the custard, but the reward is pure satisfaction. And for those who want something other than coffee, there are offerings such as Thai black tea and Thai milk tea (hot or on ice). This neighborhood is part of the charming Old Town but has less pedestrian traffic. If you want to throw yourself into an unexpected Bangkok milieu, this café is a great starting point for wandering through the nearby small alleyways and visiting other shophouses, many of which have been converted into modern boutique businesses such as restaurants, bars, and ice cream parlours. Nam Heng Lee, however, has resisted such changes… enjoy it while you can!

ADDRESS: Nam Heng Lee is on Thanon Charkrapong, closer to the Lan Luang Junction. It’s open from 6am till 3pm. The sisters speak English well, and are knowledgeable in many topics so feel free to ask questions. bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm

Silver Waves

A stylish and contemporary Cantonese restaurant with a glorious riverside setting. Try the signature Peking Duck. 36F, Chatrium Riverside Hotel 18 Charoenkrung Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 023 078 888, ext. 1948 www.chatrium.com

FRENCH

Liu

A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes. 3F, Conrad Bangkok 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

Pagoda Chinese Restaurant

This upscale venue serves traditional Cantonese cuisine in a spacious, contemporary setting. The menu focuses on healthy dishes, while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.marriott.com

Shang Palace

The interior is elegant, but more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts. 3F, Shangri-La Hotel 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun, 11am-3pm www.shangri-la.com 96 | JUNE 2018

Loulou Forks & Glasses

This cozy bistro-style spot. offers superb savoury selections such as cold cuts and cheeses, as well as market-fresh daily specials and affordably good wines. 459/61, Suan Phlu Soi 8 Tel: 083 041 4351 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.louloubangkok.com

Outlaw Creative Cuisine

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

Pagoda Chinese Restaurant

Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com

This Michelin-starred restaurant’s classic French haute cuisine definitely lives up to its lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items well into the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com

This restaurant definitely lives up to its name, serving daring fare with an artistic flair, and letting the high quality ingredients speak for themselves. 415, Charoen Krung Soi 45 Tel: 090 021 2111 Open: Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, Sat, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10:30pm, Sun 5pm-10:30pm www.facebook.com/outlawcreativecuisine

INDIAN Indus

An ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine, featuring a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect, while dialling down the stodge and oiliness; a riff on Indian-Chinese—or Himalayan— combinations. 71, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 258 4900 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight www.indusbangkok.com

La Vie

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at this elegant restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination. 11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Lunch, Mon-Sat, noon-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

Le Boeuf

The concept here is simple: high-quality steak, liberally doused with a unique peagreen sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core. GF, Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair 60 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 672 12 30

Gaggan

A must-visit for foodies, this progressive, molecular Indian cuisine resto has been voted number one for four consecutive years—2015 to 2017—on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and now it has 2 Michelin stars to its name. Try one of the recommended tasting menus. 68/1 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 652 1700 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.eatatgaggan.com bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK

INTERNATIONAL

Mai eatery offers fine dining in a woodland decorated setting, with artfully prepared multi-course set menu dinners available. 12/6 Ekkamai Soi 2 Tel: 02 053 2059 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-11pm www.cuisinedegarden.com

Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn Bunker

Bunker

From the outside this three-storey concrete building may look rustic and unfinished; inside however you’ll find contemporary American cuisine with a heavy New York influence being served up. The top-notch ingredients and excellence in execution are really what mark the dishes here. 118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com

Cuisine de Garden

The Bangkok branch of this popular Chiang

bangkok101.com

Few restaurant settings in the city rival this charming colonial-era mansion where Turkish native Chef Fatih Tutak keeps things rooted in the Ottoman canon, experimenting with tastes, textures, and temperatures in a 10-course—although expect more—tasting menu. W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4025 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.thehouseonsathorn.com

Eat Me

Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cozy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town. Trust us! Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd.

Elements

This Michelin-starred restaurant expertly fuses Japanese and French culinary aesthetics, flavours, and precision, in a retro-futuristic space that feels like a home study but has the theatricality of a playhouse. Meanwhile, views of Bangkok’s downtown cityscape can be enjoyed from the restaurant’s open-air deck. 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 687 9000 www.okurabangkok.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings

Freebird

Surf & Turf Buffet: Fri-Sun, 6pm-10pm www.facebook.com/marriottsathornvista

The tagline here is ‘Modern Australian Cuisine’ which makes more sense once you sample a few of the astoundingly inventive morsels on the menu. Try the chef’s special multi-course tasting menu, and prepare to plunge into gastronomic bliss. 28, Sukhumvit Soi 47 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Weekend brunch: 11am-3pm Tel: 02 662 4936 www.facebook.com/freebirdbkk

Park Society

Haoma

Park Society

In the ever-growing local-seasonalorganic food movement it’s rare to meet a chef who applies their philosophy so ardently. But here flowers, plants and even fish flourish, with much grown and harvested on-site. Produce is organic, delicious and first-rate in what is an inside-out allotment with ingredients managed and presented with care. 231/3, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 02 258 4744 Open daily 5:30-11pm www.facebook.com/haomabkk

Karmakamet Diner

Although the café style selections are outstanding, the talented kitchen team is also adept at creating some serious fine dining dishes. 30/1 Soi Methi Niwet Tel: 02 262 0700 Open daily: 10am-11:30pm www.karmakametdiner.com

MoMo Café

This casual hotel restaurant has a modern design with breakfast, lunch buffet, a weekend surf & turf buffet, and all-day à la carte options. Expect fresh, seasonal ingredients and an international roster of cuisines—without inflated prices. Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista 1, Sathorn Soi 3 (Soi Suan Plu) Tel: 02 343 6789 98 | JUNE 2018

Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: noon-10:30pm Sunday Brunch: noon-3pm www.okurabangkok.com

ITALIAN Biscotti

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this high-altitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus. 29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 624 0000 www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Red Oven

Styled as a ‘World Food Market’, this all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. And on weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet. 7F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Serving up authentic Italian fare since the late ‘90s, this staple on the lunchtime roster for suits and their business partners has grown casual enough to warrant a visit by anyone on any day of the week. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com

Don Giovanni

From the big wooden pillars to the villa scenery painted on walls and busts on pedestals, this restaurant transports patrons to a different place and time, with a menu that offers Italian classics and a piano player tickles the ivories as one dines. GF, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao 1693 Phahonyothin Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm Tel: 02 541 1234, ext. 4169 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

With a design concept that conjures up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill kitchen at this stunning restaurant space and cocktail bar dishes up succulent steaks and other meaty morsels. It’s also home to what has to be the coolest looking whisky room in the city. 34-36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Up & Above

This elegant 24th floor restaurant has fine dining down pat, but it also boasts a brunch to rival all others—delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Witthayu Rd.

Enoteca Italiana Bangkok

Rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, this place is traditional Italian to the bone. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable à la carte and degustation menus to explore. As authentic as it is delicious. 39, Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 258 4386 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.enotecabangkok.com

Jojo

Mixing traditional with contemporary flair, this sleek restaurant promotes the bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK very best in Italian cuisine with a keen emphasis on slow food and authentic ingredients—offering superb antipasti and a selection of freshly-made pizzas. GF, The St. Regis Bangkok 159 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 207 7815 Open daily: noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm www.stregisbangkok.com/fb_jojo

The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: Lunch, 12pm-2:30pm, Dinner, 6:30pm-11pm www.sukhothai.com

Sensi Restaurant

La Bottega di Luca

This elegant Italian eatery, overseen by the ever charming Luca Appino, serves over 15 different kinds of pasta and an array of Italian specialties you won’t find on many other menus. 2F, Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 204 1731 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm, Mon, 5pm-11pm www.labottega.name/restaurant

La Scala

This beuatiful designed fine dining Italian gourmet restaurant specializes in classic artistic, chef-style cooking, serving up dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavour.

Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok hotel 11, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Open daily: 6am-11am, 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 620 6699 www3.hilton.com

La Dotta Pasta Bar

Bangkok’s ‘pastaphiles’ are converging in droves at this cozy, two level shophouse that specializes in delicious handmade pasta, but also uses organic imports as well. 161/6, Thong Lor Soi 9 Tel: 02 392 8688 Open daily: 11am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm www.ladotta.co

Scalini

The casual fine-dining Italian restaurant atmosphere is enhanced by the impressive culinary skills of the resident chef, who blends a heartfelt love of the power of ingredients with expertly executed and innovative culinary techniques and bold flavour combinations.

Opened in 2014, this popular and award-winning fine dining restaurant takes diners on an extensive journey of Italian cuisine, where the chef can create a bespoke menu tailor-made for your table available in seven or nine courses. 1040, Naradhiwas Soi 17 Tel: 02 117 1618 Open: Mon-Sat 5:30-11:30pm www.sensibangkok.com

Sorrento

This venue has long been one of the city’s tried and trusted Italian food restaurants, and although they’ve reopened with a rebranding, favourite items such as cheese and pepper pasta, burrata salad, and their signature tiramisu are still on the menu.

Tataki with saffron sweetbreads and Padron pepper

LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings 73, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 234 9933 Open: Sun-Thu, 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat, 11ammidnight www.facebook.com/sorrentosathorn

Theo Mio – Italian Kitchen

This charming, light-filled indoor restaurant—with a small outdoor seating area streetside—serves up classic Italian fare, as seen through the eyes of British celebrity restaurateur Theo Randall (his homemade pastas are especially tempting). GF, InterContinental Bangkok Hotel 973 Ploen Chit Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-11:30pm Tel: 02 656 0444 bangkok.intercontinental.com

‘Goh’ Fukuyama in this tofu-centric restaurant. It’s a place where taste, sensation and theatre all come together perfectly. A myriad of tofus presented almost ritualistically, to which any Japanese connoisseur would bow in appreciation. 5 Khwaeng Thung Maha Mek Tel: 083 655 4245 Open: Mon-Sat, 2 seatings only, 6pm & 9pm

SPANISH/LATIN

JAPANESE Katana Shabu & Japanese Dining

The deliciously inventive Japanese fusion cuisine here is equally matched by the inventiveness of the décor—where each private dining room has a different, eye-popping design scheme. 21/38, Sukhumvit Soi 23 (Soi Prasanmit) Open daily 5:30pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 088 0706 www.ssjd-katana.com

Kisso

Combining a modern mastery of timehonoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, this is one of the top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. 8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 259, Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com

Mihara Tofuten

Mihara Tofuten Bangkok Celebrity chef Gaggan Anand has partnered with Japan’s Takeshi 100 | JUNE 2018

El Gaucho

Meat lovers will enjoy the authentic taste of Argentinian steak in all its flame-kissed goodness at either outlet of this popular eatery. The meals are best rounded out with a hearty South American red wine. 8/1-7, Sukhumvit Soi 19, Tel: 02 255 2864 88/36, Sukhumvit Soi 55, Tel: 087 213 088 Open daily: 11am-late www.elgaucho.asia

STEAK & BURGER Babette’s The Steakhouse

An intimate 1920s Chicago style eatery at award-winning Hotel Muse Bangkok, serving up the best steak in Bangkok, set against a glittering city backdrop. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open: Lunch 12pm-3pm, Dinner 6pm-12am www.babettesbangkok.com

New York Steakhouse

Looking for a traditional style steakhouse? From the spotless white tablecloths to the wooden plateholders adorned with silver handles shaped like longhorn steers, this is a classic red meat restaurant (utilizing delicious US bone-in beef too). 2F, JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi 2 Open daily: 6pm-11pm Tel: 02-656-7700 www.jwmarriottbangkok.com

THAI At-Ta-Rote

A modern Thai dining room which occupies a vast, glass space with plenty of natural light. Wooden beams and shiny fittings present a chic décor, with an indoor overspill of flora that drips with greenery. 59/3, Sukhumvit Soi 39 Tel: 064 249 4244 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.facebook.com/attarote.eatery

El Tapeo

This three-storey restaurant, which specializes in tapas-style offerings, offers authentic Spanish tastes at very affordable prices. 159/10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 052 0656 Open: Sun, Tue-Thu, 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat, 11:30am-1am www.eltapeobkk.com

Banana House

Uno Mas

Banana House

With its expansive menu of authentic Spanish specialties, coupled with spectacular city views, this chic, sky-high tapas bar and restaurant reaches new “heights” in several respects. 54F, Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 4pm-1am Tel: 02 100 6255 www.unomasbangkok.com

What began with the passion and friendship of three young men, almost 35 years ago, has now became one of top Thai restaurants on Silom Road. The kitchen delivers original dishes, plus limited seasonal menus, which combine complex tastes and authentic recipes. 2F, 68/1 Duangtip Blvd, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 234 9967 Open: Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK

Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant (and cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Canvas

Serving up artistic masterpieces on a plate, the visionary kitchen team here use mainly local produce and ingredients, conjuring up unique concoctions that give traditional Thai dishes a definite twist. Try one of the chef’s incredible tasting menus. 113/9-10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 099 614 1158 Open: Tue-Thu, Sun, 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sat, 6pm-12:30am www.canvasbangkok.com

Bangkok. Large bed-like grey lounge chairs adorned with bright coloured pillows provide the perfect spot to lay back and unwind while sampling Thai tapas menu items from the hotel’s award-winning Saffron restaurant. 52F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 5pm-1am Tel: 02 679 1200 www.banyantree.com/bangkok

Sala Rim Naam

Exquisite and authentic Thai cuisine served in a beautiful colonial pavilion, built in the traditional Northern Thai style. There’s enough seating to comfortably accommodate up to 170 guests in this spacious riverside setting. The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave. Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: 5pm-midnight www.mandarinoriental.com

CAFÉ The Chocolate Boutique

With a clear and strong focus on natural quality ingredients and old world craftsmanship, this chocolate café, cake, and sweet shop exudes sense of playful experimentation from the moment you begin browsing the menu. GF, Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 8am-11pm www.shangri-la.com/bangkok

Open daily: 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup

Rocket Coffeebar

A Nordic-inspired café offering premium quality coffee along with variety of comfort foods, all under the healthy concept of farm-to-table. Now with two downtown locations. 147, Sathorn Soi 12, Tel: 02 635 0404 1F, Grease Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49, Tel: 02 662 6638 www.rocketcoffeebar.com

Sift Bakery

Furnished with large floor-to-ceiling windows, and a counter displaying an assortment of desserts and pastries, diners at this café can enjoy their orders in a spacious upstairs and downstairs seating area. GF, Amaranta Hotel Pracharatbumpen Soi 7 Open: Wed-Mon, 11am-10pm Tel: 02 691 1688 www.amarantahotel.com

VEGETARIAN Broccoli Revolution

This veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Rd (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 Facebook: Broccoli Revolution

Kiosk Café Ruen Urai

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare made from the finest fresh ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Saffron Sky Garden

This “garden in the sky” offers stunning vistas overlooking almost all angles of bangkok101.com

Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boite is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cakeand-chat, or a delicious hot coffee. 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 259 4089 Open: Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com

Not Just Another Cup

This cozy cafe, suitable for early birds, serves a variety of brunch menus, while the drink menu covers everything from coffee to cold-pressed juices and infused water. 75/1, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 635 3464

Veganerie Concept

The modern-rustic interior is flooded with natural light, and the fare—from tantalizing dairy-free bakery desserts to vegan appetizers and main courses—is pretty “natural” as well. 35/2 Soi Methiniwet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) Tel: 02 258 8489 Open: Fri-Wed, 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/veganbakerybangkok JUNE 2018 | 101

Exquisite interiors, creative cocktails, and vintage Versaceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you'll find it all at The Club at Koi

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE model behaviour at koi The top floor of SATHORN SQUARE BUILDING (98 North Sathorn Rd) has undergone quite a few changes of identity over the years. Those who can remember when it was Ku De Ta are probably outnumbered by those who know it as Ce La Vi, but it was recently taken over by the people behind KOI RESTAURANT & LOUNGE, and on April 27th a fabulous party, concert, and vintage Versace runway fashion show was held to inaugurate THE CLUB AT KOI, the newest incarnation of this 39th floor haute hotspot. Described as a place where “opulence meets sophistication”, the spacious restaurant section here presents Japanese-Californian fine dining at its best, while the enormous nightclub section—connected directly to the restaurant—allows guests to continue the fun well into the wee hours. And if the number of models attending the lavish opening party is any indication, the scenery on the dancefloor should prove to be as breathtaking as the views overlooking Bangkok’s glittering skyline. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 6pm to 1am, and Friday and Saturday till 2am. www.facebook.com/koirestaurantbkk

get ready for something big on silom road With the opening a few weeks ago of its new Silom Road location, HOOTERS ASIA now has six locations in Thailand (three in Bangkok alone). Known for its zesty wings and zaftig waitresses, Hooters has chosen to open this newest branch at the corner of Silom and Thaniya Street, an area frequented by Japanese and Western expats alike. The 465 sq.m venue offers seating for 165—including a bar area with space for up to 30—and sports fans can keep abreast of how their favourite teams are faring on any one of the venue’s 50 flat-screen TVs… the only flat things in the room, no doubt. Along with live music nightly, this new location will serve garden-fresh salads, burgers, seafood, and the new spicy dry rub hickory-smoked wings. Open daily from 11am till 2am. www.hootersasia.com

picture yourself here The team behind the award-winning, but hard-to-find drink spot The Locker Room, recently opened yet another hard-to-find speakeasy-style joint. Located on Sukhumvit Soi 11, FIND THE PHOTO BOOTH is hidden behind a shopping mall-type photo machine upstairs from SCORE BAR (a sports bar that’s also new to the Soi 11 strip). When you find the photo booth, take a photo and see if you can then access the hidden bar. When/if you do, you’ll find yourself in a beautifully-lit, elegantly appointed—but thoroughly hipster—cocktail-centric space with stools at the bar and cushy sofas for lounging.

sundays are only a drag if you want them to be If you’ve never been to a “Spanish-inspired gay tea dance”, then drop in any Sunday to KIKA KITCHEN & BAR (14 Convent Rd) from 4pm to 9pm and join in on their colourful weekend fiesta, which includes music, drinks and, of course, tapas. Aimed at the gay and gay-positive post-brunch, pre-party crowd, this Sunday-only festive get-together is entitled VIVA LA VIDA KIKA! and will breathe life into the streets of Silom in a vibrant celebration of Spanish culture. Alongside a rotating roster of live DJs there will be weekly drag shows (with a variety of performers) and—best of all—B150 Pimm’s & Tanqueray cocktails. www.facebook.com/kikabangkok

bangkok101.com

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NIGHTLIFE | special report

I’ll Drink to That!

Bangkok scores big with six entries on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2018 list By Bruce Scott

Teens of Thailand Other major awards handed out during the ceremony included the Campari One to Watch—a special award given to the industry’s rising-stars—which went to Thong Lor’s swanky speakeasy Rabbit Hole. The ranking is based on the votes of Asia’s 50 Best Bars Academy members, comprising the most knowledgeable and travelled members of the bar industry, drinks media, and mixology experts from across Asia. The Academy spans

Photo by David Jacobson

ooking for a good spot in town to grab a drink? Well, according to the 2018 list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars, Bangkok has six of the best watering holes in this hemisphere. The winners were announced last month during a special awards ceremony held in Singapore at the Capitol Theatre, and fittingly Singapore’s own Manhattan bar took the number one spot… for the second time running! Overall, Singapore and China were the big country winners, with 12 bars each on the list, but Thailand— more specifically, Bangkok—held its own just fine. Ku Bar and Smalls were the city’s The Bamboo Bar two new entries this year, at No.49 and No.29 respectively, while The Bamboo Bar at the Mandarin Oriental hotel claimed the No.9 spot (up from No.13 last year), making them the recipients of the ‘Best Bar in Thailand’ award as well. Equally impressive advancements were made by the fun-loving boys at Backstage, who clocked in at No.13 this year—up five places from 2017—while creative cocktail kings Vesper rose an impressive 13 places,

All smiles at Smalls

Vesper jumping from No.40 to No.27. Finally, Chinatown’s favourite gin joint Teens of Thailand claimed the No.44 spot, up two notches from last year. Surprisingly, Q&A bar dropped off the list altogether, which poses more questions than answers (ha ha!). 104 | JUNE 2018

14 countries, and dozens of cities across the continent, reflecting the relative development and importance of bar scenes in different locations, and showcasing the diversity of the drinking scene in Asia. Asia’s 50 Best Bars and The World’s 50 Best Bars are owned and organized by William Reed Business Media, the group behind The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants, and Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. For the full list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2018 visit: www.worlds50bestbars.com/asia. bangkok101.com

connoisseur corner | NIGHTLIFE

Luca Martini

Wine News & Events By Bruce Scott

erhaps the biggest wine-related event this month is the inaugural edition of Benvenuto Brunello Bangkok, taking place on Thursday June 7th at The Residences at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok (494 Rajadamri Rd). In attendance will be Luca Martini, the man voted Best Sommelier in the World, 2013. The event is being organized by the Consortium of Brunello di Montalcino, in association with Texica Wines, Gastronauts Asia, S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, RCR Cristalleria Italiana, and the Ambasciata d’Italia Bangkok. There will be over two dozen premium Italian wines available for sampling, including a 2010 Sassodisole Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Riserva. The event runs from 3pm till 6pm and tickets are B2,000. To find out more, call 089 799 3400, or email: narumpa@texica.co.th. In addition to the afternoon tasting there will be two gourmet Brunello di Montalcino wine pairing dinners held on June 7th—one at Tables Grill at the Grand Hyatt Erawan (call 02 254 6250), and one at Rossini’s, the premier Italian restaurant at the Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit (call 02 649 8364). Both dinners begin at 7pm and the price is B3,800++ at Tables Grill, and B4,800++ at Rossini’s. In other wine news, the Park Hyatt Bangkok at Central Embassy (88 Wireless Rd) presents a Silver Oak Wine Dinner on Monday, June 4th from 6pm till 10pm. Executive Chef Franck Detrait invites diners to experience a gourmet multi-course meal paired with six exquisite labels from Napa Valley’s legendary Silver Oak winery. In addition, Ms. Vivien Gay, from Silver Oak Winery, will host the event. Tickets are B3,690++ per person, and there’s a champagne welcome reception at 6pm. Call 02 011 7429 or email: chalikarn.singsamroeng@hyatt.com. On a much different note, the Thai Austrian Society presents Heuriger, a special celebration of Austrian food, wine, and culture taking place at the Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park (199, Sukhumvit Soi bangkok101.com

22) on Saturday, June 9th. Guests will be entertained by 28 musicians from the Tiroler Bürgermeisterkapelle, accompanied by dancers from the Trachtengruppe Silberplattler. Other festivities include a Drindl Queen contest and a prize raffle—including a grand prize of a trip to Vienna—with proceeds going to support charity project for underprivileged kids in Thailand. The festivities run from 5:30pm till 11pm, and the price is B1,800, or B1,500 for TAS members (reduced price for kids). For tickets visit the official website at: www.thai-austrian-society.org.

The Bangkok Grand Wine Tasting Near the end of the month, on June 29th, the 11th edition of The Bangkok Grand Wine Tasting will be held in the Grand Ballroom of the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok. It’s arguably the biggest and most elaborate wine professional event in Thailand, where overseas boutique wine producers and importers exhibit their wines and offer tastings to hundreds of wine professionals, sommeliers, F&B professionals, and high-end wine lovers. To find out more call 089 218 1864, or email: communiucations@ thailandwinetoday.com. And finally, the legendary Landmark Hotel (138 Sukhumvit Rd) continues their weekly Friday night wine tasting series at the lobby level Rendezvous Bar. Admission is B890++ per person, and the evening’s fun and games start at 5:30pm and continue until 9pm. JUNE 2018 | 105

NIGHTLIFE | listings

BAR Bamboo Chic Bar

Explore a selection of signature cocktails, wines, and spirits, while the culinary team prepares a variety of snacks and delicatessen favourites in a contemporary lounge setting. 4F, Le Méridien Bangkok 40/5 Surawong Rd. Open daily 5:30pm-11:30pm Tel: 02 232 8888 www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com

Evil Man Blues

This retro cocktail bar promises only top-shelf spirits, housemade mixers, and fresh garnishes. Meanwhile, live music by renowned jazz musicians creates a close-knit vibe. GF, 72 Courtyard Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

FooJohn Building

With four distinct venues within one building—from French bistro to US-style smokehouse—this hip Chinatown hotspot has quickly joined the ranks of go-to destinations for night owls and creative types alike. 831 Charoen Krung Rd., Soi 31 Open: Wed-Sun, 7pm-midnight Tel: 085 527 3511 www.facebook.com/foojohnbkk

J. Boroski Mixology

A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com

Oskar Bistro

This low-ceilinged club is perhaps more brasserie than bistro, but it’s always popular with people coming for pre-club drinks and mingling. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 255 3377 Open daily: 4pm-2am (kitchen till 11:30pm) www.oskar-bistro.com

With walls covered in Jack Rogers skull and crossbones motifs, and a large ship hanging over the bar, the impression is that you’ve entered Davy Jones’ Locker— however, this one has an expansive drinks and dining menu. It’s a unique change of pace for groups looking for a fun night out, yearghhhh! 251/1, Thonglor Soi 13 Open daily: 6pm-2am Tel: 083 639 9919 facebook.com/piratearena.official

Rarb

Highball Bangkok

Trader Vic’s

106 | JUNE 2018

This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and former chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks. MahaNakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 001 0697 Open daily: 10am-late www.voguelounge.com

Pirate Saloon

Ensconced in a hipster-chic, glassencased nook, this Old Town craft cocktails mecca features a rotating menu of daily drink specials and a mad scientist barman bent on experimentation, and home brewing his own spirits. 47/1 Phra Arthit Rd. Tel: 081 406 3773 Open: Tue-Sun, 5pm-midnight instagram.com/rarbbyescapade

Run by an all-girl crew, this cozy bar specializes in highball bourbon-based cocktails, with knowledgeable female mixologists on hand to both impress and educate. Destined to become a neighbourhood favourite. GF, Sasha’s Hotel Uno Sukhumvit Soi 19 Open daily: 6am-1am Tel: 064 429 8624 www.fb.com/highballbkk

Vogue Lounge

The Bangkok branch of the world’s favourite Tiki Bar has been serving up potent tropical concoctions—with amazing riverside views—for over two decades. It’s a place that just begs you to let your hair down and have fun. 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-midnight; closed for dinner on Sundays Tel: 02 476 0022 bangkok-riverside.anantara.com

Wishbeer Home Bar

With the help of crowdfunding through Facebook ads, Jerome Le Louer turned Wishbeer from a beer home delivery service, into a bricks and mortar store, and finally into three Bangkok drink spots offering an amazing selection of imported craft beers, ciders, and more. Sukhumvit Soi 67, Tel: 02 392 1403 The Street Ratchada mall, Tel: 02 121 1960 91, Sukhumvit Soi 57, Tel: 02 392 1403 www.wishbeerhomebar.com

ROOFTOP SKY BAR Aire Bar

Offering a variety of wines, beers, and artisanal cocktails, with delicious snacks to boot. Plus, one of the best views of the city (day and night). A laid-back bar perfect for unwinding… cocktail in hand. 28F, Hyatt Place Sukhumvit Bangkok 22/5, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Open: Mon-Thu, 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 5pm1am; Sun, 3pm-11pm Tel: 02-055-1234 www.facebook.com/airebarbangkok

Attitude

This sky-high drinking and dining spot boasts an inventive cocktail menu, delicious tapas-sized nibbles, and Instagram-worthy desserts, but the bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE view overlooking the river is what really commands the attention here. 26F, Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 431 9100 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am minorhotels.com/en/avani/riverside-bangkok

handmade cigars from Cuba, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic, and more. Courtyard at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155 Rajadamri Rd, Tel: 02 254 4726 32F, Compass Skyview Hotel, 12, Sukhumvit Soi 24, Tel: 02 011 1133 www.facebook.com/characterbar

Char

Cielo Sky Bar

Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Character Whisky & Cigar Bar

Both outlets of this cozy and comfortable smoker’s lounge—one of which doubles as a skybar—serve some of the rarest and finest single malt whiskies from Scotland (and beyond), as well as housing humidors stocked with premium

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5pm-7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit 2, Sukhumvit Soi 57 Open daily: 5pm-2am Tel: 02 797 0000 www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

A rooftop bar, with a business-casual ambiance and unbeatable views of Bangkok, serving a wide-ranging and impressive list of cocktails at fair prices. 46F, Sky Walk Condominium Sukhumvit Soi 69 Tel: 02 348 9100 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.cieloskybar.com

Red Sky Bar

CRU Champagne Bar

Red Sky Bar

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar

Sky On 20

This high altitude hot spot is own by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com

Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open Daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

At this stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok.

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NIGHTLIFE | listings Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok

The Speakeasy

One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts, wines at solid prices, and cocktails (some crafted from homemade vodka infusions). 24/25F, Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.hotelmusebangkok.com

Zoom Sky Bar & Restaurant

Meet, sip, and dine overlooking the city at this well-designed venue, offering innovative culinary experiences and 360° cityscape views. 40F, Anantara Sathorn Hotel Bangkok 36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd. Tel: 02 210 9000 Open daily: 6pm-1am bangkok-sathorn.anantara.com

CLUB Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best sound systems. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com

all about the beat, with hip hop DJs performing regularly and mixologists performing their magic behind the bar. 10/4, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open daily: 9pm-2am Tel: 065 880 0333 www.thefirmbangkok.com

Narz

Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance crowd moving for over two decades with their wild party atmosphere. Perfect for groups who want to make it their playground for the night. 112, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 4805 Open daily: 9pm-3am www.narzclubbangkok.net

PUBS

The Firm

Within this upscale five-storey lounge, nightclub, and all-round watering hole, the 1st and 2nd floors are home to a restaurant and bar, offering continental pan-Pacific fare, while the 3rd floor—and the VIP access 4th and 5th floors—are 108 | JUNE 2018

Check Inn 99

This always entertaining bar is something of a Bangkok institution, and is popular with expats and Thais alike. There’s lots of live music on offer, including cover bands, weekend blues and jazz jams, and the occasional singer songwriter showcase. 1/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open daily: 6pm-1:30am Tel: 081 735 7617 www.facebook.com/checkinn99

Maggie Choo’s

The Londoner

It’s the only purpose-built British pub in Bangkok, and it’s also the oldest microbrewery in the city (it first opened in 1997, and was originally located on Sukhumvit Soi 33). In its current location the building itself is new, but once you enter the doors you feel as though you are in an old style ‘local’. 1178 Pattanakarn Rd. Tel: 02 022 8025 Open daily: Mon-Sat, 11am-midnight, Sun, 9am-midnight www.the-londoner.com

LIVE MUSIC The Firm

Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/blackcabinbar

Black Cabin

Half the space at Wild & Co. restaurant is given over to this brick-walled pub which eschews the mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists. Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana Tel: 061 515 6989

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. GF, Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/maggiechoos

SpeakerBox

The city’s latest bar to enjoy local and rotating imported craft beers as well as some cool cocktails and snacks while kicking back and checking out some of Bangkok’s best local indie bands and artists at this compact, casual semi-open air venue. Ratchada Train Market (Esplanade Ratchada) Tel: 084 662 6642 Open: Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-2am www.facebook.com/speakerboxbkk

The Zuk Bar

An ideal place for aperitifs or after dinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas menu items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sukhothai.com bangkok101.com

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

Photos by Julia Offenberger

id you know that far removed from the frenzy of urban Bangkok there lies a serene, traditional village populated mainly artists and artisans? Known as the Khlong Bang Luang Artist Village, it’s a well-preserved cluster of stilted wooden houses set along one of Bangkok’s old canals—in a scene reminiscent of the days of yore. The narrow alleys here are home to several art galleries, studios, and shops, as well as restaurants, cafés and even barbershops. Located to the west of the Chao Phraya River—hidden at the end of Charan Santiwong Soi 3, just a short taxi ride from Talad Phlu BTS station—the entrance is marked by a narrow footbridge which leads visitors into the community. One of the highlights is the two-story teakwood Baan Silapin, also known locally as the ‘Artist House’. This century-old structure is owned by Chumpol Akhpantanond, a Bangkok-based artist and conservationist, who bought and restored the building; turning it into an artist centre and attracting many other professional artists and art students. The ground floor is home to a great coffee shop, while on the upper floor there’s a small gallery, showcasing paintings, drawings, and photographs from local artists. Sitting in the centre of the house is a 300-year-old chedi, a relic of the Ayutthaya period, which doubles as the backdrop for the traditional Thai puppet theatre performed here every day (except Wednesdays) at 2pm. Inspired by the village’s creative atmosphere, visitors can colour their own khon mask (left) or, for the more adventurous, small canvasses and paints are available for budding artists to create their own masterpieces. There are also two ancient temples worth visiting: the temple complex of Wat Khuhasawan Worawiharn, a royal monastery that was renovated under King Rama I; and Wat Kamphangbangchak, an ancient and beautiful temple, most likely dating back to the Ayutthaya period, where the inside walls are covered in beautiful mosaics (in varying states of decay). Much like a living museum, Khlong Bang Luang is one of the last remaining traditional communities still to be found on Bangkok’s old network of canals and rivers. The neighbourhood is a throwback in time, with crumbling temples and wooden homes on stilts. But even more important is the magic artists here create—whether it’s timeless moment captured on canvas, or carefully crafted puppets coming to life.

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