Bangkok101 Magazine March 2018 by Talisman Media

march 2018 100 baht

LUXURY Whether you're rich or not so rich, Bangkok has a wealth of top-tier temptations to choose from

BEST OF BKK

Treating yourself to the good things in life

SPECIAL REPORT

Bangkok's leading ladies of gastronomy

ARTS INTERVIEW

Cult comedian Doug Stanhope live in BKK

TRAVEL FEATURE

Glorious getaways on the island of Phuket

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LEADING ART GALLERIES BANGKOKARTMAP

Publisher’s Letter

t’s a good thing March has 31 days, because there’s a lot going on this month. But apart from the more tried and true red-letter days coming up—which include Makha Bucha Day for Buddhists and St Patrick’s Day for boozers—the 8th of March is now recognized worldwide as International Women’s Day. In celebration of this annual observance there will be a special all-female chefs event taking place at the The Sukhothai Bangkok which will bring together more than a dozen top-tier culinary masters for an unforgettable feast (see pg. 81). In keeping with this theme our March issue also contains a special report on female chefs living and working right here in Bangkok, including four women whose restaurants were awarded stars in the 2017 Michelin Guide Bangkok (starting on pg. 26). Alongside our coverage of International Women’s Day this issue also takes time to showcase some of life’s little luxuries—which are exceedingly easy to come by both in Bangkok and beyond. From top-rated hotels and restaurants, to the latest in body pampering spas, to spectacular riverview condominiums that make amazing investments, this manic metropolis is overflowing with upscale lifestyle options, and venues offering world-class products and services (see pg. 16). All you need to enjoy the spoils is a no-limit credit card… or perhaps a healthy supply of Bitcoin. Outside of Bangkok the premier luxury lifestyle locale in Thailand is, for many, the island of Phuket—which we profile in this month’s special travel feature (starting on pg. 46). With no shortage of exquisite 5-star properties, and an ever growing number of award-winning restaurants, this southern star in the Kingdom’s tourism constellation continues to attract high-end holiday makers and budget-conscious travellers alike. It’s a great place if you’ve got the “urge to splurge”, but if not remember that the beach is always free! All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be Enjoy. found online at www.bangkok101. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but Mason Florence should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia. Publisher

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

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M A RCH 2018| 5

CONTENTS 24

CITY PULSE 10

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

My Bangkok The luxe life of debonair distiller Alex Chou

Best of BKK In a town like Bangkok, where every indulgence is at your fingertips—for a price—there’s no reason not to spoil yourself rotten with the best in food, fun, booze, and body pampering

Spa Review Anantara Spa @ Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort

Weekend Wanderer Join the jet set and fly to Soneva Kiri Koh Kood, the only island resort in Thailand with its own landing strip

Making Merit The annual King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament raises big money for a big cause

Special Report In celebration of International Women’s Day on March 8th we profile 11 of Bangkok’s best and brightest female chefs

SNAPSHOTS

TRAVEL 46

Phuket 101 In this special 16-page travel destination feature we look at Phuket, an idyllic and intriguing island in the south of Thailand that lures luxury travellers, adventure seekers, and galavanting gourmands alike.

See & Do Island-wide attractions and activities

Focus on Phuket Luxury yachting scene; Hype Club Boat cruise; Plan your trip

Now New Next Socio-political Pop Art of Sutee Kunavichayanont

Bizarre Thailand Ode to the humble buffalo, Thailand’s iconic animal

Joe’s Bangkok Chinatown’s hidden guitar workshop

Very Thai How soi life became retro heritage – Part 4

On The Block Taking a stroll through the heart of Phuket Town’s fun and funky old quarter

44 Heritage Historic Captain Bush Lane gets a makeover

Made in Thailand The Chalong Bay Rum distillery

Wine & Dine The Nai Harn resort is an unforgettable place to stay, but it also offers fine dining and carefully curated wine lists

Where to Stay Phuket Marriott Resort & Spa, Nai Yang Beach; Diamond Cliff Resort & Spa; SIS Kata Resort

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand

On the cover If you’ve got cash to flash then Bangkok—and Thailand in general—is a great place to splurge on luxury items of all kinds. Whether you’re interested in a 5-star hotel stay, a Michelin-starred meal, or a pampering all-day spa treatment, you’ll find it all here (see our cover story starting on pg. 16). Illustration by Thanakrit Skulchartchai

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 |M A RCH 2018

bangkok101.com

CONTENTS 70

ART & CULTURE 64

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

Museum Spotlight Museum Siam’s new exhibition attempts to decode “Thainess”

Arts Interview Exclusive interview with caustic comedian Doug Stanhope

Cinema Scope Film news and screenings

Photo Feature New hardcover book on Myanmar is filled with fabulous photos

FOOD & DRINK

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

Food & Drink Updates Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners

Hot Plates Women in Gastronomy (WIG) brings together 14 acclaimed female chefs for a day-long food forum

Nightlife Updates

Restaurant Reviews Enoteca; L’Appart; MoMo Café; Jojo; Upstairs Mikkeller

100

Bar Reviews Aire Bar; Highball Bangkok

Special Report All eyes are on Macau for the 2018 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list awards

101

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

Breaking Bread with Chef Alessandro Frau from Acqua

Eat Like Nym Sendai Ramen Mokkori

Mason Florence EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Parinya Krit-Hat MANAGING EDITOR

Bruce Scott EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Falida Angkhuro Anansit Sangsawang

SIGNING OFF 106

Did You Know?... Phuket has its very own award-winning microbrewery and brew pub in Patong

ART DIRECTOR

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PHOTOGRAPHERS

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Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120

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© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

ART CUISINE Mhok Pla Ghapong Mhok Pla Ghapong is steamed ﬁlets of sea bass with lemon basil leaves, dill, other herbs, and chillies. Served in fresh banana leaves, it is one of Ruen Urai’s “Isaan Interpretations” menu. These special offerings are inspired by rustic Northeastern Thai or Isaan cuisine. Experience ﬁne Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Open from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

CITY PULSE | metro beat

MARCH’S HOTTEST TICKETS March 4

THAI FESTIVAL Until March 11

His Majesty King Rama X has initiated a new winter festival entitled Un Ai Rak Khlai Khwam Nao (Love and Warmth at Winter’s End) which is currently taking place at the Royal Plaza on the grounds of Dusit Palace. The event reflects the long-standing bond between the Royal Institution and the Thai people. There are exhibitions, Royal Family shops, and a main stage with daily cultural performances from all regions of Thailand. In addition, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) will present a replica cinema from the reign of King Rama V, airing period commercials of Thailand’s tourism. Daily visiting hours are 10:30am till 9pm (10pm on Friday and Saturday). Entry is free.

IRISH PARTY March 17

Originally a religious feast day, the annual booze-a-thon known as Saint Patrick’s Day has developed into a celebration of Irish heritage and culture celebrated the world over—and Bangkok’s no exception. It is customary to wear green clothing or accessories on this day, as it is the colour most associated with Ireland, but beer is also an essential part of the day’s festivities. Every pub in town will be offering drink specials galore, but for a real Emerald Isle intoxication head to Scruffy Murphy’s (Sukhumvit Soi 23), Molly Malone’s (Soi Convent), or The Drunken Leprechaun (Sukhumvit Soi 15), and join in on a cacophonous chorus of “when Irish eyes are smiling!” 10 | M A RCH 2018

Canadian-born Indian comic Russell Peters brings his hilarious ‘Deported World Tour’ to Bangkok for one night only at Impact Exhibition Hall 1 (Muang Thong Thani). This show promises all-new material, plus the superstar comedian’s signature acerbic interactions with his audience. The tour also features the legendary raconteur of weird stories, comedian Jake Johannsen. Ticket prices start from B2,000 and showtime is 8pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com

March 5

The Miami-based all-girl pop outfit Fifth Harmony are coming to Muang Thai GMM Live House (8F, CentralWorld mall). The five-member group rose to fame in 2012 after they performed on the American reality show The X Factor, however one member quit in 2016 so only four fabulous females will be frolicking frantically when the group takes the stage here in BKK. Tickets start from B1,600. www.thaiticketmajor.com

March 17

American stand-up Doug Stanhope makes his Bangkok debut this month as part of the Magner’s International Comedy Festival. The cantankerous cult comedian will be performing at the Westin Grande Sukhumvit hotel (259 Sukhumvit Rd), and tickets are B800, B1,200, B1,600, and B2,500 for front row VIP tickets. See our exclusive feature interview with Doug Stanhope on pg. 70. www.ticketbox.co.th

March 23

Legendary American singer, songwriter, musician, and actor John Legend will be performing his first ever live concert in Bangkok this month when his ‘Darkness & Light Tour’ rolls into BITEC Bangna Hall 106 (88 Bangna Trad Rd). Perhaps best known for his beautiful 2014 piano ballad “All Of Me”—dedicated to his wife, model Chrissy Teigen—he currently has five studio albums to his credit. Showtime is 8pm, and tickets are priced at B2,800, B4,500, and B8,000. www.thaiticketmajor.com

March 27

Remember James Blunt, the English fellow with that massive hit song back in 2005 called “You’re Beautiful”? Well, he’s taking over the stage at the Royal Paragon Hall (Siam Paragon) as part of his ‘Afterlove World Tour’, which coincides with the release of The Afterlove, his 5th studio album. The concert begins at 8pm and tickets are priced from B1,500 to B5,500. www.thaiticketmajor.com bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

ELECTRONIC MUSIC FESTIVALS March 2-3

The Wonderworld Extreme Park (86/1 Khubon Rd)—located on the outskirts of Bangkok, in Khwaeng Khan Na Yao—is the setting for the two-day cinematic EDM extravaganza known as Dropzone. Top rated DJs such as Kaskade, Sven Vath, Dash Berlin, Paul Vandyk, and many more will be blasting beats from 2pm till late each day. With three full-powered stages, offering a choice of Trance/EDM, Trap, or Techno, the raving possibilities are endless. Two-day passes are B3,500 (general), and B5,500 (VIP). www.ticketmelon.com

Gala

FRENCH FEST March 3-4

Pichetkul Klunchun and Myself brings two artists face to face—Jérôme Bel and Pichet Klunchun—both of whom know nothing about the other, yet they try to bridge the cultural gap dividing them. The pair enter into a sensitive dialogue that embraces their contrasting personal biographies, as well as problems such as Euro-centrism, inter-culturalism, and cultural globalization. It all takes place at the Chang Theatre (700, Soi Prachauthit 59, Rajburana) at 7:30pm each evening, and tickets are just B500. Transmission Festival Asia

March 17

The Transmission Festival Asia touched down in over 60 different countries in 2017, and this year it’s back and bigger than ever. This epic audio-visual experience and gathering of music lovers features a brand-new audio and visual production show called ‘The Spirit of the Warrior’, while the DJ line-up includes names such as Aly & Fila, Ben Nicky, Ferry Corsten, Jordan Suckley, Markus Schulz, and more. It’s being held at BITEC B-Square, Hall 99-100 (88 Bangna Trad Rd), running from 5pm till 2am, and ticket prices start at B2,800. www.ticketmelon.com

GROUPTHINK GATHERINGS March 6, 13, 20, 27

Imagine a group of friends and strangers sitting in a circle and discussing interesting topics. At Aristotle’s Café, which takes place each and every Tuesday at Dice Cafe Board Games & Coworking (1/4, Phahonyothin Soi 7), creator and organizer Hassan Ghiassi has formed an intellectual environment in which participants are encouraged to learn through conversation and free expression. Each session starts with participants—maximum of 15 people—writing down their own unique question. The group then votes on their favourite topic to start with, and the facilitator on hand guides the group in conducting a respectful, deep, and diverse conversation. The hour-long gatherings are free of charge and begin at 7pm. It’s a great way to both meet new people and become a part of an amazing community of global citizens. Email hassan.aristotlescafe@gmail.com to reserve your spot. www.aristotlescafe.com bangkok101.com

March 6-7

A captivating showcase for all admirers of dance, Gala, a wildly entertaining and truly radical show by Jérôme Bel, uses professional dancers and actors, but also amateurs of all ages and walks of life, and encourages the audience to re-consider the judgments we make watching performers on stage. This event is presented by the Ambassade de France en Thaïlande, and takes place at the Chang Theatre (700, Soi Prachauthit 59, Rajburana). Tickets are B700 and showtime is 7:30pm. For information on both shows call: 099 213 5639, or 095 956 9166.

THEATRE PLAY March 22-24, 29-31

The Bangkok Community Theatre presents William Shakespeare’s As You Like It, in the 3rd floor conference room of the BNH Hospital (9/1 Convent Rd). Performed in a stripped-down, up-close style, this classic English play follows the heroine Rosalind, who must untangle the web of deceptions she has woven to win her true love. The show takes place at 7:30pm each evening and tickets are B500. www.bangkokcommunitytheatre.com M A RCH 2018 | 11

CITY PULSE | metro beat

FOOD FORUM EVENT March 19-20

ITALIAN FEST March 7

Acclaimed singer-songwriter, poet, illusionist, showman, and musician Vinicio Capossela (above) brings his jazz trio to the Aksra Theatre in the King Power building (8/1 Rangnam Rd) for a free concert beginning at 7pm.

March 16, 17

The Italian Opera Gala takes place at the Prince Mahidol Hall (999, Phuttamonthon 4 Rd), with a pair of concerts featuring Thai and Italian opera singers accompanied by the Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra. The Friday show is at 7pm while the Saturday show is at 4pm, and both events are free.

March 20, 30

For two nights in March the Foreign Correspondents Club of Thailand (518/5 Phloen Chit Rd) will present Italian Writers in Bangkok. Books will be available for sale, some signed by the authors. Both events begin at 6pm, and admission is free.

March 22

Ground-breaking harpist Floraleda Sacchi will be performing a free concert at the Bangkok Arts and Culture Centre (939, Rama I Rd) starting at 7pm. Her heavenly sounds will be enhanced by pre-recorded audio, soundscapes, and samples.

March 31

The Artemis Danza/Monica Casadei troupe will be presenting their bold and modern interpretation of Rossini’s classic ballet Il Barbiere di Siviglia (the Barber of Seville) at the Small Hall of the Thailand Cultural Centre (14 Tiam Ruam Mit Rd) at 7:30pm. For more information about the ongoing Italian Festival in Thailand 2018, visit: www.ambbangkok.esteri.it 12 | M A RCH 2018

By bringing chefs, farmers, scientists, anthropologists, entrepreneurs and other parties involved in food production together, the {Re} Food Forum aims to build a platform for sharing ideas and innovations that can help forge a better, more rewarding, and more sustainable future. Created by Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava and Dylan Jones, who own and run the acclaimed Bangkok restaurant Bo.lan, and writer and farmer Leisa Tyler, this two-day food forum is being run non-for-profit through the Magnus foundation BioThai, and proceeds will be Nilsson donated to sustainable agricultural and food related charities and programmes in Thailand and Southeast Asia. The main event runs from 9am to 4:30pm each day at The Residence, in the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok hotel (494 Rajdamri Rd), with 35 confirmed speakers on the roster. A single day ticket is just B1,700, which includes lunch and refreshments, while a two-day pass is B3,000 (includes two lunches and refreshments). The two days of the symposium also include a series of masterclasses, with visiting guest chefs including Magnus Nilsson from Faviken in Sweden, Dan Hunter from Brae in Australia, Shinobu Namae from L’Effervescence in Tokyo, and Will Goldfarb from Room4Dessert in Bali. The small group classes—priced between B2,000 and B3,00—are designed as skills and ideas sharing Shinobu sessions, where participating Namae chefs explore the concepts of sustainability, including fermentation techniques. In addition, a series of exceptional evening dinners will take place between March 16th and 21st at select restaurants and hotels in Bangkok, with special collaborative menus designed by guest chefs and local talents such as Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn from Le Du, and Garima Arora from Gaa (among many others). Priced between B5,600 and B85,00, these multi-course feasts all include wine and/or alcohol. For a more detailed line-up of masterclasses, events, and dinners, as well as ticket information, visit the website: www.re-take.asia

LIFE’S A DRAG March 8

Two of the top three finalists from the popular reality show RuPaul’s Drag Race, are bringing to town a fashion, lip-sync, and comedy show. Kim Chi and Naomi Smalls will perform for the first time in Bangkok, in a show organized by LA Comedy Live. Showtime is 8pm and the venue is the KBank Siam Pic-Ganesha (7F, Siam Square One). Audience members must be over 18, and tickets start at B1,500. www.thaiticketmajor.com bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

MARCH 13: DAY LONG CULINARY CONGRESS

Food for Thought

On March 13th top local and international chefs gather at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok for BITE—the Bangkok International Taste Experience

n March 13th, 2018, a diverse and dedicated group of local and international award-winning chefs will gather at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok hotel for the Bangkok International Taste Experience (BITE)— an exciting and informative day-long culinary congress. The day will feature an array of cooking demonstrations and chef talks, and will culminate with a street food inspired feast at Sala Rim Nam, the hotel’s acclaimed Thai fine dining restaurant. Some of the Bangkok-based kitchen talent scheduled to appear includes: the Sühring Brothers from Sühring restaurant; Fatih Tutak from The House on Sathorn; Gaggan Anand from Gaggan restaurant; Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn from Le Du; and Arnaud Dunand Sauthier from Le Normandie, the Mandarin’s 2 Michelin-starred restaurant. Meanwhile, the featured international chefs include: Gert De Mangeleer from 3-Michelin-starred Hertog Jan in Belgium; Josean Alija from 1-Michelin-starred Nerua at the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain; and Cristina Bowerman from 1-Michelinstarred Glasshouse in Rome, Italy. This incredible culinary event will be a must for all foodies to mark in their calendar. For more information, or to purchase tickets, visit the website at www.biteforum.com.

Josean Alija

Cristina Bowerman

Fatih Tutak

Arnaud Dunand Sauthier

Gaggan Anand

Thomas and Mathias Sühring

bangkok101.com

Gert De Mangeleer

Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn

M A RCH 2018 | 13

CITY PULSE | my bangkok

Alex Chou

orn in Taiwan, but raised in the USA—starting in the early 80s—Alex Chou began Interning at blue chip companies such as IBM and JP Morgan even before graduating university. What brought you to Thailand? I had gotten out of a business in NYC, took off golfing across America, and came to spend the 2006 year-end holidays with an amazing family in Thailand—my University of Michigan alumnus. Since then, I have done agriculture, food processing, and alternative energy related work for them whilst also personally investing in small companies in those areas and building local “communities”. More than 11 years have passed since I have used Bangkok as base, returning to my homes in Taiwan and California regularly. To be honest, I struggled with Thailand for a decade but finally made peace and now can’t say enough good things about the country. When did you become involved in the gin business? As part of my investment thesis, I explored how I could create a more egalitarian and sustainable world; improving farmers’ livelihood, land, air, and water qualities via changes in supply chain, value added processing, and waste reduction. I created some farming experiments, including making biodiesel and ethyl alcohol at home. I began exploring opportunities in producing consumable alcohol in early 2013, due in part to the ridiculous excise import taxes and resulting high price tags on imported booze in Thailand. Within a year I had flown to Scotland to learn how make whiskies and gins—passing exhaustive exams—and made an investment into the company producing ‘Lamai Spirit’, a white distilled alcohol made from sugarcane. I asked local craft spirit importer Bootlegger’s Trading to distribute Lamai, and their owner also asked me to help develop a gin, which he wanted to be called 14 | M A RCH 2018

Photo: Benya Hegenbarth/Samsen Studio

Debonair distiller and co-creator of Grandma Jinn and Lamai Spirits

‘Grandma Jinn’, as a play on words. Of course, Siam’s alcohol regulations remain in the dark ages so whilst in every other country Lamai would fall into the rum category and GJ a gin, we can technically only call and label them as lao-khao or “white spirits”. What term best describes you: Bon vivant, Man-about-town, Gadfly, or Dilettante? I am surprised you didn’t include “debutante”. If I had a choice, I would choose the Western term “Renaissance Man”. Within the traditional ethnic Chinese framework of hierarchy, one aimed to become learned (of classics, history, philosophy, politics, arts, etc.) in addition to enjoying all things in life. Has Bangkok finally become a sophisticated urbane metropolis? Bangkok is a great city for bourgeoisie consumerism and general mayhem, but the funding, infrastructure, support, and interest in fine and performance arts is a complete joke. Most Thais seek out sanuk in general. And most foreigners end up here as a result of chasing adventure and excitement. As a result, one can find nearly everything here—despite laws and regulations—any time of day and

throughout the year. I find Bangkok, like Berlin, at an interesting point of inflection. Both cities are affordable, attract bohemian types (including the new digital nomads), have decent infrastructure, and hold an edge. Hong Kong, London, New York, and Tokyo are fantastic cities, but have simply gotten too expensive and structured for the avant-garde mad creative thinkers and tinkerers. I know you like to splurge, but where are some places in Bangkok where you like to go to “slum it”? I could spend an entire day on Charoengkrung. It’s one of my favourite neighborhoods. I would start with dim sum brunch, catch a coffee and some art at Bridge, stop into TCDC and Warehouse 30, eat a Pakistani lunch, take a commuter boat up the river, then come back to bar and restaurant hop—Jua, 80/20, Tropic City, Foo John, and/or Rebel Café. Is the average hi-so Thai person even capable of slumming it, or is Thailand’s social divide far too engrained? The super affluent, those in the Forbes billionaires list as well as some power politic types, regularly eat at their local haunts. They may come in their VIP vans, but they sit on the sidewalk like everyone else. I find that those who are insecure about their social position are the ones most deeply ingrained in consumerism, brand obsession, and status quo. And they hold the most contempt for “slumming it”. What defines “luxury” for you? To me, “luxury” is the freedom to explore. In the eating-dining-travel context, it’s not just what gets listed in Michelin, Asia’s 50 Best, Top Table, Trip Advisor, or The Bar Awards (of which I am a panel member). In other words, I think bespoke or custommade for me and my taste makes me happiest. Interview by Bruce Scott www.leotiger.com bangkok101.com

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Live the Luxe Life

There’s no shortage of things to spend your money on in this town, so… pamper yourself properly! By Bruce Scott

angkok is a mercurial metropolis. On the one hand you can get delicious street food on almost any corner of town for two dollars or less, while on the other hand you can spend what for many is a month’s rent on just a single meal at one of the city’s many multiple award-winning gourmet restaurants. In many ways this splurge vs. conserve duality is what visitors and residents love most about Bangkok… you can break the bank on occasion—and treat yourself royally—and then happily scrimp and save for next the month or so till you’re ready to do it all again. Of course for the truly wealthy, Bangkok, and Thailand in general, is a playground filled with über-luxe diversions of all kinds. You can truly get anything you want in this city, as long as you’re willing to flash the cash. One of the biggest trends these days is to invest in Bangkok’s booming real estate market, where high-end condominium developments are springing up on any empty patch of land available. One of the most talked about is the Capella Bangkok, which is scheduled to open in the last quarter of 2018. Located along the rejuvenated Chao Phraya River waterfront promenade, this property offers 101 rooms, suites, and villas with panoramic views of the city’s main waterway. Another eagerly anticipated development—also located riverside—is the grand Four Seasons Private Residences, a condo project developed by Country Group Development PCL. Upon completion the property will have 73 floors and contain 355 total accommodations, ranging in size from 1 bedroom to 5 bedroom units. Closer to the CBD, Thailand’s leading high-end real estate developer Raimon Land PLC has 211 units of sophisticated inner city living 16 | M A RCH 2018

available at The Lofts Asoke, while the futuristic Sindhorn Residence, on Langsuan Road, is a high-rise super luxury condominium comprised of one 35-storey and one 10-storey building, which together offer 202 units ranging in size between 35 and 345 sq.m.

For those just passing through town, the array of premium high end hotels to choose from is vast, with new properties opening all the time. In 2017 the Park Hyatt Bangkok and the Hyatt Place Bangkok Sukhumvit both opened their doors

WINE APPRECIATION NIGHTS

True wine connoisseurs in Bangkok already flock to Riedel Wine Bar— located on the 2nd floor of the Gaysorn Village complex—attracted not only by their extensive collection of labels—250 and counting—but also for their state-of-the-art wine dispensing system that allows 40 labels to be available “by the glass”, protected from oxidization. Add to this a mouthwatering array of tapas-style gourmet menu items on offer, cool DJs and live bands, and a chic atmosphere that oozes sophistication, and you’ve got quite the perfect package. But did you know that Riedel also hosts, on an almost weekly basis, a series of informative and entertaining Wine Talks? These delectable discussions vary in price, depending on the vintages being sampled, and upcoming this month there will be four talks in all, starting on March 8th with the invitation-only Women with Wines, followed by Rare Varietals on March 12th, and an Italian Wine Talk on March 13th with speaker Elena Lorenzetti, owner at Stefano Antonucci. The series concludes with Glass Does Matter, another invitation-only event, but all are invited to the Riedel Wine Fair which is being held on March 31st. For more information call 02 656 1133. www.riedelwinebarbkk.com

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE to the public, as did the Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park, the 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok, the X2 Vibe Bangkok Sukhumvit Hotel, and several others. Meanwhile, 2018 will see the highly anticipated opening of the Waldorf Astoria Bangkok, on Rajadamri Road, but don’t imagine for a minute that it will be the only 5-star property on the horizon this coming year.

on page 18. And no list of where to splurge would be complete without mentioning the city’s numerous hi-end shopping malls—including CentralWorld, Central Embassy, Siam Paragon, EmQuartier, and the soon-to-be-launched Icon Siam (currently under construction on the banks of the Chao Phraya River). Finally, what good is money if you can’t spend it on having a good time with friends. If you’re in a celebratory mood there are a dizzying number of high-end rooftop bars to choose from

for your drinking and dining pleasure. Of course, nothing truly denotes the highlife more than popping the cork on a bottle of champagne. So whether you’re sipping on a Mumm Grand Cordon at CRU Champagne Bar on the 59th floor of the Centara Grand at CentralWorld, or indulging in a bottle of Ernest Rapeneau Brut Extra Aged from France at the Attitude Rooftop Bar & Restaurant on the 26th floor of the of Avani Riverside Bangkok, you’ll be toasting the town as the toast of the town.

SUNDAY BRUNCH BINGE

Waldorf Astoria Bangkok Along with an abundance of high-end hotels, Bangkok is also blessed with a slew of fantastic gourmet restaurants that send foodies into a frenzy at every turn. For a list of those headed by award-winning female chefs, see our special report starting on page 26. Similarly, you can also turn to our food & drink section—starting on pg. 78—which is loaded with information about new restaurant openings, as well as several reviews of top-rated restaurants (including the superb Michelin-starred Upstairs Mikkeller). In truth, there so many amazing restaurants to recommended—from classic Thai dishes at Ruen Urai to more contemporary fine dining fare at Eat Me—that it would take an entire magazine to list them all. Another indulgence, for those with both time and money to spare, is a trip to any one of Thailand’s hundreds of luxury spas. Bangkok has dozens and dozens of them with more opening shop every year. For more information on some of the newest and nicest, check out our spa rundown starting bangkok101.com

The Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok is one of the most prestigious hotels in the city, so it’s not surprising that their elegant 2nd floor restaurant Tables Grill offers a sumptuous Weekend Brunch that pulls out all the stops when it comes to offering guests a luxuriously indulgent midday feast. The newly launched luxury gourmet brunch selection offers diners an array of live station options to choose from, including Fine de Claire oysters on ice, smoked salmon, lobster bisque, beef tartare (recommended), flamed prawns with tomato sauce, saffron seafood risotto, aged prime rib, a selection of European charcuterie and cheese, a variety of salads, and a truly decadent choice of dozens of desserts. The food choice is further enhanced with a series of special à la carte delicacies, including Tables Grill’s classic half Boston lobster thermidor, pan-fried duck liver, poached egg homemade penne gratin, and many more—all freshly prepared, and cooked to your order. In addition, guests can indulge in an extensive beverage selection, including premium free flow Louis Roederer Brut Premier champagne, a short but well-curated list of white and red wines, as well as a selection of beers, soft-drinks, mocktails, iced tea, and mineral water. This Weekend Brunch takes place every Saturday and Sunday from 11am till 3pm, and is priced at B3,999++ per person with free-flow of Louis Roederer champagne (without alcohol B2,800++). For reservations, call 02 254 6250. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

M A RCH 2018 | 17

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Treat Yourself Right A round-up of Bangkok’s best new day spas By Allison Nicole Smith

esidents of Bangkok, and visitors alike, are privileged when it comes to having a wealth of massage shops to choose from—in fact, it seems like there’s one on nearly every street corner. As a result, this vast amount of options can also be intimidating. However, if you really want to go in for some more upscale and luxurious body pampering, this city also boasts a wealth of exquisite day spas and health treatment centres to choose from. Here now is a short list of some of the latest and greatest, saving you the trouble of searching so you can get straight to enjoying some much-deserved, relaxing “me time”.

entrance. The overall space is cozy and intimate, and there’s no shortage to this peaceful atmosphere. Natural daylight filters in through the floor-to-ceiling windows, and sumptuous brown leather chairs pair well with the bamboo exterior. The chic décor sells itself, but the inclusion of specialty coffee brand Craftsman Coffee, as well as Akart Bistro & Bar, helps to sweeten the deal. But Zense is more than just good looks. Combining Taiwanese-derived reflexology methodology with traditional Thai massage, you can be sure a visit here will alleviate muscle tension and promote head-to-toe body healing. Additionally, music therapy is also provided in order to encourage further relaxation. Body massage treatments start at B350 an hour, but if you’d like a private room, you’ll expect to pay at least B950 for minimum 1.5 hours, including a warm herb compress. Open daily from 10am till 11pm. www.zensemassage.com CHAARI SPA: Once again, the city’s Ari district proves it’s one of Bangkok’s hippest hoods with its most recent spa opening. And judging from the foot traffic, Chaari Spa won’t be going anywhere any time soon.

Zense Spa ZENSE SPA: If you’re hankering for a little bit of nature—and who isn’t in Bangkok?—then look no further than the leafy tranquility of Zense Spa in Yarden Yenakat. Partially hidden within a grove of trees, a winding stone path, fringed by manicured foliage, guides you to the 18 | M A RCH 2018

Chaari Spa bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE The ambience is chic and modern, decorated in dreamy peachy-pink tones and embellished with lapis blue accents. A traditional Thai massage is offered (B490), but this spa boasts tea-based treatments, some of which are customizable. For example, the two-hour Loose Leaf Passion package (B1,900) combines a one-hour scrub of matcha green tea with another one-hour oil massage, which lets you select from a menu with a variety of tea infusions, such as earl grey, green tea, lavender, red tea, and white tea. Given the quality of service and lavish atmosphere, this spa is great value. Housed on the second floor of A-One, a community mall space attracting Ari’s neighbourhood cool kids, the convenient location is a reason to go in and of itself. A-One offers a wealth of food options from Japanese, fried chicken, to curry and rice, as well as coffee and a variety of dessert shops. After an afternoon of eating and shopping, Chaari’s luxurious spa treatments are the ideal way to unwind. If your feet are in need of some TLC, their Sandal Lover Therapy package (B750) offers a thorough scrub and reflexology treatment, leaving your trotters perfectly pampered. Open daily from 10am till 10pm. www.facebook.com/chaarispa

design within the Erb Bliss Room, while a soothing fragrance, extracted from various flowers, wafts from room to room. The spa rooms are quiet and dimly lit. One of their most popular treatments is the Seven Pollen Golden Therapy (B4,900), which utilizes gold foil and extracted flower properties known for their healing and anti-aging benefits to rejuvenate the skin; chakra massage is incorporated to boost effectiveness. Bonus: all of Erb’s products and treatments are sustainably developed using certified organic ingredients. After enjoying one of their decadent spa therapies, you can shop the store walls, including their Perfume Bar, for products to take home. Open daily from 10am till 8pm. www.erbasia.com

Lavish Salon & Spa Erb Bliss Room ERB BLISS ROOM: Inspired by the sumptuous beauty rituals of the women of the Siamese royal court, the luxury brand Erb has long successfully imbued modern wellness with traditional Thai ingredients and practices. Known for their indulgent but scientifically-conscious products, Erb has now opened a hybrid store-spa where visitors can truly achieve “erb-im”, an old Thai expression referring to the radiant glow of royalty for which the brand is named. Located at Gaysorn Village, you’ll be simultaneously awed and relaxed by the towering floral arrangement complemented by a sage green interior bangkok101.com

LAVISH SALON & SPA: All-in-one spas are apparently becoming increasingly popular, and Lavish Salon & Spa is no exception. Not only can customers enjoy a range of spa and massage services, this hybrid parlour also boasts fashion-forward haircare, including cuts, colours, and treatments. Besides killing two birds with one stone, the best part is that the rates are quite affordable for the quality of services provided. The front greets guests with a beautiful marbled interior where you can enjoy one of their many salon services, including a haircut (starting from B700) and a Korean Hair Treatment (B2,500). They also claim to be the only salon that offers 100 percent organic colour and treatments sourced from plants and Japanese tea leaves. M A RCH 2018 | 19

CITY PULSE | best of bkk Further inside, the salon converts to a spa where the combination of Eastern and Western techniques allow guests to enjoy a fully-rounded and one-of-a-kind relaxation experience. Treatments range from traditional Thai Massage (B540), Indian Head Massage (B990) with warm coconut milk, to a 90-minute Hot Stone Massage (B2,200). One of their premier features is personalized treatment packages, giving customers the freedom to mix and match treatments and services to suit their personal needs (starting from B2,600). Every treatment is done using 100 percent natural products. Open daily from 9am till 10pm. www.lavishsalonspa-bk.com INFINITY SPA: Arguably the most attractive of Bangkok’s latest slew of spa offerings, Infinity Spa’s laboratory-meets-living room décor comes from a team of designers from Chulalongkorn’s Faculty of Architecture. Part of the science-y design comes from the day spa’s massage practice of incorporating custom-made, organically-derived essential oils, all of which are crafted in-house. This ensures that your massage experience is tailored to promote fully-body healing and functioning. Their 90-minute signature treatment, Infinity Aroma (B1,300), combines the benefits of aromatherapy and traditional Thai medicinal properties, utilizing one of their homemade massage oils in conjunction with herbal heat compression. This therapy is said to relieve stress, fatigue, and muscle tension. You also have the option of adding a 30-minute body scrub for B500.

Infinity Spa In addition to their range of hybrid aromatherapymassage services, they also provide mani-pedis and facials, the latter of which utilizies the marine benefits of Thago spa brand products. For example, with the Infinity Detox Facial package (B2,100) your skin is gently cleansed and exfoliated. The package also includes a massage, an anti-bacterial seaweed mask, and a rejuvenating serum, leaving your skin supple and refreshed. Whether you come solo or with a group of friends, this might be the most fashionable and walletfriendly spa around. Open daily from 10am till 10pm. www.infinityspa.com 20 | M A RCH 2018

Panpuri Organic Spa PANPURI ORGANIC SPA: When in the midst of Bangkok’s bustling metropolis, a peaceful respite can be a much-needed solution, and the eight spa rooms at the Park Hyatt provide just the ticket for luxurious serenity. Relaxation begins at the door, greeting guests with a bright, airy interior, while ivory furnishings and marble décor contrast with dark accents. Spa rooms are further enhanced with panoramic views of the city skyline. Unsurprisingly, the posh ambience foretells hefty price tags, but you can be sure that the quality services are worth the extra expenditure. This is Panpuri Organic Spa’s second location following their branch at Gaysorn, the latter of which is darker and moodier. However, you can expect the same award-winning service at their latest location, as well. Amenities include state-of-the-art technology, such as crystal-steam rooms and saunas, whirlpools, as well as their signature “experience showers,” which seamlessly combine calming acoustics and invigorating aromatherapy for ultimate relaxation. You can’t go wrong with their 210-minute Panpuri Ultimate Indulgence (B9,800), which will pamper you from head-to-toe with a food massage, organic milk salt body scrub and wrap, massage with Thai herbal compress, facial, and topped with organic refreshments. Their 120-minute Dharana Brisk Body Symphony (B5,500) is similarly relaxing, combining a foot massage, facial, and personalized massaged, though this option is a little gentler on your wallet. Open daily from 10am till 10pm. www.panpuriorganicspa.com bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

TRIED & TRUE: THESE LONG-RUNNING SPAS ARE BANGKOK FAVOURITES Rarinjinda Wellness Spa

RARINJINDA WELLNESS SPA: Utilizing the expertise of high-trained therapists, top-notch hospitality service, as well as the latest in spa facilities, you can’t go wrong with RarinJinda’s well-developed reputation. Deeply rooted in traditional Thai massage, their treatments perfect centuries-old techniques with state-of-the-art technology, such as a heated Hyrdotherapy pool, Vichy Shower, and rainforest steam room and sauna. Whether you visit the Ratchadamri or Phloen Chit branch, both seamlessly blend metropolitan luxury with calm serenity. In fact, the latter lets you experience a rooftop massage—the first and only of its kind in Bangkok! If you’re looking for the quintessential all-day spa experience, the RarinJinda Golden Memories package (B7,400) will suit you nicely. Totaling 4.5 hours, indulge yourself with a hot stone massage combined with aromatherapy, followed by a body scrub, floral Jacuzzi bath with Chromotherapy, guava foot polisher, facial treatment, and then an herbal steam. www.rarinjinda.com Health Land

HEALTH LAND: It may be a chain, but that’s no reason to write off this long-standing Bangkok favourite. Its popularity is due in part to its elegant facilities and décor, which appeals to high-end sensibilities while still offering reasonable prices. A traditional Thai massage will only set you back B600, which is only slightly higher than the standard street rate. It’s no wonder that guests flock to its various branch locations on a

bangkok101.com

daily basis; in fact, the Asoke location is eight-stories high! With additional branches in Ekkamai and Silom, Health Land has got others beat when it comes to convenience. There’s a number of excellent packages to choose from, including their signature line of Ayurvedicstyle treatments, such as the 120-minute Four-Hand Massage (B4,000), which involves two therapists working symbiotically to doubly enhance your relaxation experience. Additionally, their 90-minute Abyanga Massage (B1,500) combines soft-to-medium pressure and warm herbal oils applied from head to toe. Finally, there’s an array of cutting-edge technology to add to your appointment, as well, including a spa Jacuzzi and steam room. Open daily 9am till 11pm. www.healthlandandspa.com

Divana Virtue Spa

DIVANA VIRTUE SPA: Situated in a white-walled, traditionally Thai mansion, Divana Virtue Spa manages to succeed in making you feel like royalty for a day, while also providing the comfort and familiarity of one’s own home. There isn’t a single surface to be found without a decorative floral arrangement. Music plays softly in the background. And the green foliage lining the front path relaxes you from the moment you arrive. They also provide a complimentary tuk-tuk pick-up service from the Thong Lo BTS station, as well. After your treatment is over, you can also peruse their selection of organic products to take home with you. You can’t go wrong with any of their packages. With their 90-minute Aromatic Relaxing Massage (B1,850), essential oils combine with masterful massage techniques to alleviate fatigue and muscle tension, while providing full-body rejuvenation. You can also add-on their signature 30-minute Organic Milk Bath for an extra B1,050. Open daily from 11am till 9pm. www.divanaspa.com

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CITY PULSE | spa review

Anantara Spa

hether it’s lying on a beach beside the ocean, having a relaxing afternoon at a riverside restaurant, or even taking a ferry ride across the Chao Phraya River, the ebb and flow of water can have a body altering experience. By the time you reach you the Anantara Spa at the Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort, located on the western side of the Chao Phraya—and just a short ferry ride from the Saphan Taksin Pier—you will already feel a wave of tranquillity wash over you. With elite facilities sensually disguised within an elegant Asian design, Anantara Spa feels like a tropical Thai island hideaway. Lush garden pathways lead to nine private treatment rooms: two Suites comprised of double treatment beds, an indoor bathtub, and a private garden featuring a rain shower and traditional sala; four Deluxe Rooms boasting garden views; and a further three Deluxe Rooms that are ideal for traditional Thai massage and feature steam and shower facilities.

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Anantara Spa’s treatment menu draws on Thailand’s wellness traditions, therapeutic ingredients, and cultural inspirations—such as the country’s waterways which were once vital for communication and transportation of necessities like as rice. Anantara Spa’s signature treatment pays homage to Thailand’s verdant rice paddies. Rice is the only crop that Thai farmers bless throughout the cycle of planting to harvesting in the hope for abundance, stability, and happiness. Inspired by this ritual, the signature treatment journey “blesses” guests with the naturally rejuvenating beauty secrets of rice, from head to toe. The 180-minute Signature Rice Ritual (priced at B8,000++ per person) begins with a Purifying Sri Nin Rice Scrub, cleansing the polishing the skin to perfection through a combination of jasmine water, virgin Shea butter, unbleached Sri Nin rice, rice bran oil, rosemary essential oil, peppermint essential oil, and frankincense essential oil. A full body Oriental Rice Compress Massage follows. A

specially blended rice oil is infused with sweet almond and safflower seed oils to hydrate and balance moisturize, oxygenate and calm, while rice bran protects and softens. Pressure point and stretching techniques, along with a heated compress made from Sri Nin rice, releases tension, pain, and stress. The concluding Anantara Signature Facial blends nourishing plant extracts and traditional Thai ingredients to treat and revitalize the complexion. Guests are then invited to relax and sip a soothing brew of Hot Brown Rice Floral Tea, to extend the beneficial rice themed journey. NOTE: For those who wish to skip the facial, a 120-minute treatment priced at B5,200++ per person is also available. By Kelly Harvey

Anantara Spa

Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 476 0022 www.anantara.com bangkok101.com

weekend wanderer | CITY PULSE

Jet-Set Journey

Soneva Kiri Koh Kood offers beautiful beaches and barefoot bliss By Bruce Scott

Beach Pool Villa Suite

ith its pristine beaches and jungle hillsides, the island of Koh Kood is Thailand at its tropical best, but getting there from Bangkok can take the better part of an entire day. However, when you book a stay at the über-luxe Soneva Kiri Resort you can be taken there in jet-set style aboard an 8-seat Cessna Caravan 280B, which drops you off at the resort’s private island landing strip in just over an hour (departing from Suvarnabhumi International airport). Once you land a quick speedboat ride takes you across the bay where you are welcomed by the staff. The resort also playfully enforces a ‘no shoes’ policy, so guests are encouraged to go barefoot for the duration of their visit. In fact, a key philosophy of the Soneva group is the ‘Slowlife’ approach, which promotes sustainable, organic, and inspired experiences. Each of the 36 villas on offer has a private pool and guests also have access to their very own electric golf cart—which comes in handy for bangkok101.com

getting around the vast property. For large groups the massive Private Cliff Pool Reserve Villa encompasses an extraordinary 2,928 sq.m, and can accommodate up to 16 persons, but couples will be safe and snug in the 403 sq.m Beach Pool Villa Suites. These units include all the high-tech amenities you’d expect, but it still feels charmingly rustic. Bamboo and other

woods are utilized extensively in the construction, and the bathing facilities are almost entirely outdoors— including a sexy oval-shaped bathtub built into the wooden terrace. Each morning a bountiful breakfast is served buffet style—with an array of made-to-order options available—at The View restaurant. However, “the view” is even better if you book the Treepod Dining experience (available for breakfast, lunch, or dinner). This specially-designed dining booth seats four adults and a motorized pulley system hoists it high in the air, giving diners an unparalleled view of the bay, looking out from between the treetop canopy. The meal is then served by a designated waiter who uses a zipline to whisk himself back and forth to where the food arrives fresh from the kitchen. Other luxury facilities include the Six Senses Spa, which consists of eight spacious treatments rooms nestled deep in the tranquil jungle greenery. Here a team of highly skilled therapists take guests on uplifting sensory journeys— from mud massages to Thai herbal baths, silk facials, and warm oil Ayurvedic body massages. www.soneva.com/soneva-kiri

EASTER SPECIAL Soneva Kiri is perhaps the ultimate destination for carefree couples on a romantic retreat, the resort also takes good care of families with children. In fact, families planning a trip over the upcoming Easter Weekend (April 1st), can look forward to many kid-friendly diversions, including card making, a fishing trip, Easter egg painting, and an Easter parade featuring mouth-watering dishes from the East and West. Guests—with or without kids—can also enjoy unique experiences such as “pit cooking” at the resort’s North Beach, or having dinner in a local fisherman’s home. Contact reservations@soneva.com.

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CITY PULSE | making merit

Pachyderm Parade

Friendly giants arrive in the big city for a high society charity celebration By Robin Westley Martin

he month of March is upon us which means it’s time once again for one of Thailand’s most unique and unusual events—the King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament, which takes place from March 8th to the 11th on the playing grounds next to the beautiful Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort. Now in its 16th year, this four-day extravaganza attracts local and international media, Bangkok residents, visiting tourists, and polo players from faraway countries who travel to Thailand (friends and families in tow) to compete in this one-of-a-kind event. Everyone in attendance is treated to a host of activities—as well as the exciting polo matches—which include the Grand Opening parade, an elephant blessing ceremony by Buddhist monks, a gigantic fruit buffet for the hungry jumbos, a charity gala dinner and auction, as well as music and dance performances, sideshows, and food and drink from Thailand and around the world. Another annual tradition is the Ladies’ Day Fashion Show—known as the Bangkok Ascot—taking place on Saturday, March 10th at 5pm. And as 2018 is officially recognized as the Year of the Woman,

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and the Elephant Polo festivities kick off on March 8th (aka: International Women’s Day), this will be a not-to-bemissed event. Every year there is a fun-filled, carnival-like atmosphere at this family-friendly event, which the thousands of out-oftown visitors always seem to enjoy (leaving with more than a few stories to tell their friends back home). But let’s not forget that the whole shebang is essentially a fund-raiser for the elephants themselves, as well as elephant-related charities, and since it first began the King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament has become one of the biggest charitable events in Southeast Asia, with over US$1.3 million (B46 million) raised so far. It’s also important to remember— given that the elephant is Thailand’s national animal—that the care and welfare of the participating pachyderms is always of paramount importance, for the organizers, the mahouts, and the team players alike. “The elephants that take part are chosen for us by the Zoological Parks Organization (ZPO) of Thailand, and are nowadays all females between the ages of 15 to 25, although some young elephants will also be there to meet bangkok101.com

making merit | CITY PULSE and greet the kids on Children’s Day,” explained John Roberts (Thailand’s Mr. Elephant), the Director of Elephants at the Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort in Chiang Rai, and its attendant elephant camp in the jungle. John went on to point out that the recipients of the monies raised vary from year to year, but that they try to find a mix of long-term projects and new ones that help to fill a perceived gap that will help communities and elephants co-exist better together. The ZPO has long had a vision of setting up an elephant health care unit, and was seeking funding and partnerships. The Golden Triangle Elephant Foundation (GTAEF), which is part of the organization responsible for putting on the King’s Cup, and US-based NGO Veterinarians International, donated a pair of four-wheel drive trucks. The GTAEF also financed the hiring of one full-time elephant vet and one vet technician that enabled a mobile elephant clinic to be deployed for the very first time at the elephant villages of Baan Ta Klang, in Surin—which is known in Thailand as Changwat Chang (elephant province). The clinic and its veterinary team have now completed the first 10 months of operation, have saved the life of three elephant calves, and have dealt with over 100 minor health care emergencies, such as wound dressing and cleaning, and dealing with abscesses, diarrhoea, lameness, and respiratory symptoms. Selected mahouts also receive vet tech training, and are able to help the elephant doctors who are called out to emergencies.

Another, rather unique project is the Thai ElephantAssisted Therapy Project (TETP) which helps young people with Autism Spectrum Disorder (ASD) through interacting with, and caring for, elephants (while at the same time supporting the welfare and conservation of elephants in rural Thailand). TETP began its work in 2007 as a collaboration between conservationists, occupational therapy practitioners, and researchers at Chiang Mai University, and these experts see it as a perfect match “Elephants have a basic empathy,” enthused John Roberts, “and that makes them perfect to work with special needs children. They look at us without judging us.” This, of course, is very important to the kids with ASD and their families, who are often looked at in a bad light. Donations have also been given to more niche projects, including: the construction of a watch tower in a village whose crops are raided by elephants; English bangkok101.com

language training for the people in the elephant villages; training for the next generation of mahouts to learn the importance of elephants in the wild; and educational trips for children. In addition, a B500,000 grant was given to the Thai Elephant Conservation Centre (TECC) to help lame elephants learn to stand again.

But when all is said and done, you have to wonder… do the elephants enjoy their polo games? Well, that’s hard to say, since we don’t speak elephant, but John Roberts is also the umpire of the games and he is on the pitch with them for all the matches that are played, every second of every game. He says that some of the elephants really do seem to learn what is expected of them, and he has noticed several times an elephant appearing to admonish the player riding on his back when he had missed a shot at goal after being put in a perfect position to score. “I begin to spot patterns of behaviour,” remarked John, “and last year, towards the end of the tournament, a couple of the elephants were reacting to a game situation even before the mahouts or players could. Quite remarkable, really!”

VISITOR INFO: The King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament runs from March 8th to 11th, 2018, in a riverside clearing located directly beside the Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort. There is a free river shuttle boat to the hotel which departs from the Saphan Taksin bridge (Saphan Taksin BTS station), as well as free shuttle vans to the site from the hotel. Tickets are B200 per day, VIP tickets are B3,000, and all proceeds to charity. www.anantaraelephantpolo.com M A RCH 2018 | 25

CITY PULSE | special report

The Leading Ladies of Local Gastronomy In celebration of International Women’s Day on March 8th, we profile just a few of Bangkok’s top-rated female chefs By Dave Stamboulis

s we herald the arrival of March by celebrating International Women’s Day, 2018 is an especially poignant year for reflection on the advances made in women’s rights and achievements. The #MeToo social media explosion and Times Up movement—fighting back against sexual abuse—has gone viral worldwide. In addition, this year Hollywood nominated a woman for both Best Director and Best Cinematographer, categories in which they rarely get attention, and New Zealand, Iceland, Serbia, Peru, and Romania celebrated having women elected as the Prime Ministers of their respective nations. Here in Thailand, there has been a female empowerment of the gastronomy scene, where women have taken charge as some of the top chefs at the top tables around town, an arena that, until recently, has tended to be dominated by men. When the Michelin Guide Bangkok arrived here at the end of 2017, it awarded seven Thai restaurants with stars, of which four are headed by female chefs. In this special report, Bangkok 101 celebrates all the accomplishments made by the fairer sex, as we catch up with some of the leading ladies in the kitchens across the city.

Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava Chef and co-partner of the acclaimed Bo.lan restaurant, Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava was given the inaugural award for ‘Best Female Chef in Asia’ in 2013. Since then, her restaurant has appeared almost every year in the 26 | M A RCH 2018

Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and Bo, along with her chef husband Dylan Jones, are well known throughout Asia—famed for a weekly TV cooking show, as well as their commitment to making Bo.lan (an amalgamation of the couple’s names) become the first zero carbon bangkok101.com

special report | CITY PULSE

Thai reinterpreted at Bo.lan footprint restaurant in Thailand. Most recently, Bo.lan was honoured with a prestigious Michelin star. It hasn’t always been easy though. After doing a Masters in Gastronomy in Australia, Bo returned to Thailand and got a job at the Metropolitan, mainly due to her English and translation abilities, as she hadn’t yet had any professional experience in the kitchen. Being around a range of Thai and foreign chefs, she learned quickly though, and then went to London, to work at David Thompson’s version of Nahm there. Long days in a fast paced environment were the norm, but it was at Nahm that she met Dylan, and the two decided to return to Bangkok and open a fine dining spot serving authentic Thai food, something that really didn’t exist back then. At that time, fancy dining Thai spots were very much toned down for tourist palates. These days, in addition to being a phenomenal chef, Bo is also a passionate educator, campaigning to raise awareness about Thai food and food security. Free range chickens and eggs, fresh ocean fish, and organics are the norm at Bo.lan, and additionally, they filter and bottle their own water, have used organic cotton for staff uniforms, and are focusing on turning kitchen waste into fertilizer. It’s more expensive to do it this way, but as Bo says, “We eat more than three times a day and we need to take a look at the damage that we do to the environment.” While Bo.lan has focused on fine dining, Dylan and Bo’s other restaurant, Err, features urban rustic Thai, and is set out near the river, close to the Flower Market and Wat Pho. It offers a casual retro vibe, plenty of street food favourites and snacks, tasty cocktails, and continues in the pair’s admirable traditions.

Jutamas Theantae Chef Jutamas Theantae started out pursuing the fine arts, studying printmaking and lithography at VisvaBahrati University in India, which she thinks helped her stay attuned to fine details later on. She never forgot bangkok101.com

Jutamas Theantae (top); salt-baked Nanglae pineapple her promise though, made to her childhood friend and Karmakamet’s brand founder Natthorn Rakachana, as they sat on a porch stoop at 17 years old, saying that one day they’d have a restaurant. Theantae continued her culinary rise by working in Relais and Chateaux properties, and stints at the prestigious Dhara Dhevi in Chiang Mai and the Eugenia in Bangkok, along with teaching cooking at the Vatel Hospitality Management School and at Silpakorn University’s International College. These days, Theantae serves up creative and sophisticated French-inspired fare at the intimate Karmakamet Diner, which is furnished to resemble an old-fashioned Chinese apothecary. Asking Chef Jutamas about her take on being a female chef, she agreed with many of the other lady chefs interviewed that she never thought that being a female chef was challenging, but that just being a chef by itself was challenge enough. However, she does caution that working in Thailand isn’t quite the same as working in some other overseas spots. M A RCH 2018 | 27

CITY PULSE | special report “There’s no community of female chefs here in Thailand, unlike overseas,” says Jutamas, “where there are female chef communities and organizations to facilitate information sharing. “It’s not about being male or female,” she adds, sharing her advice to young women heading into the industry. “Work is work, discipline is discipline, sharing is sharing. Focusing on the work, productivity, and love for others is what one needs. As a busy chef, we sometimes forget that other than living just for ourselves, and for the plates in front of us, we can still do a lot of useful things for others. We can be a loving person, be kind, and not let the stress of the job turn us into a self-centered person. By loving others, you can just turn the stressful environment into a pleasurable environment, and that’s how we start to share and build something that is bigger than ourselves.”

are twelve Blue Elephant restaurants worldwide, led by the elegant Bangkok branch, housed in a gorgeous 1900s colonial-era building on Sathorn Road (which was awarded a Michelin Plate in the 2017 Michelin Guide Bangkok). In addition to its many restaurant outlets, Blue Elephant is also renowned for its authentic cooking school, as well as for its unique sauces, curry pastes, and other products, which are exported and sold around the world. In 2003, Chef Nooror was given the ‘Thai Taste-Thai Best Award’, and Blue Elephant was chosen to spearhead the Thai Government’s campaign to showcase Thai cuisine as the best in the world. She has since become a celebrity chef, invited to arrange gourmet Thai banquets

Nooror Somany Steppe Chef Nooror Somany Steppe grew up around the kitchen, as her sister owned a small provincial restaurant in Thailand. Her mother also gave her a passion for cooking, teaching her traditional recipes at an early age. Later on in life, she was inspired by her food guru and culinary mentor, Ajarn Srisamorn Kongphan. Nooror studied advanced culinary arts at the prestigious Madame Jacob Institute in Belgium, and even added Indian cooking to her repertoire during a three-month stint as a guest chef in the kitchen of The Taj Mumbai. After meeting her husband, Belgian businessman Karl Steppe, the pair launched L’Elephant Bleu in Brussels, where they resided at the time. The restaurant went on to become one of the leading Asian restaurants in Europe, and today there

Royal Thai cuisine at Blue Elephant at international conferences, catering for Thai Airways, and most recently, was asked to oversee a lavish Thai gala dinner cooked for 400 guests at the World Economic Forum 2018, staged in Davos, Switzerland. Asking Chef Nooror about the greatest challenges as a woman chef she says, “Back in the old days, it was not easy here in Thailand to be a female chef leading the men in the kitchen, but these days women are treated more equally. For me, it was challenging to go overseas and be seen as a petite Asian woman; I felt I had to prove my strength and knowledge, as well as be faster than the others in order to gain respect and recognition.” Chef Nooror quotes her favourite motto when asked for her thoughts and advice for young women heading into the restaurant industry; “Make the impossible possible!” She continues, “Be passionate and be yourself. Just remember, cooking is an art, so be your own artist.”

Saki Hoshino

Nooror Somany Steppe 28 | M A RCH 2018

Hailing from Japan, Chef Saki Hoshino is now into her third year living and working in Thailand. Along with several Thai partners, she opened the popular 80/20 restaurant, which alludes to the restaurant sourcing 80 percent of its ingredients locally. Saki is the dessert chef bangkok101.com

special report | CITY PULSE

Saki Hoshino; (inset) Roast mandarin sorbet with coconut chili meringue and lemongrass yoghurt mousse for this hip, cutting edge eatery—recently awarded a Michelin Plate—and she got her start in cooking and baking as a child, helping her mother and grandmother making fresh miso, umeshu, yoghurt, and koji. She continued her culinary passions by moving to Canada and doing a hospitality management diploma, and then specializing in pastry and baking at George Brown College. Hoshino worked at different bakeries and restaurants in Toronto for a decade and then moved back to Japan to study the art of wagashi (Japanese sweets) and fermentation, before coming to Thailand and becoming involved with 80/20. Catching up with Saki, I asked for her take on being a female chef in Bangkok as opposed to elsewhere, and she responded that one shouldn’t concentrate too much on gender. “I don’t think too much about being a female chef,” she remarked. “A chef is chef, it doesn’t matter if you are male or female. Different chefs have different visions, ideals, and cooking styles. I know that Canada was more diverse when it came to gender—when compared with Japan—but it never really affected me in either different countries or kitchens. A chef has to keep pushing herself and her team no matter where she is.” Hoshino says her greatest rewards as a chef in Bangkok come when guests come in and try her desserts and tell her how much they love them, and that just cooking good food for everyone is satisfaction in and of itself. She also had words for young women wanting to follow in her footsteps, saying, “Believe in yourself and just go for it. Especially in Asian countries, many young people have a dream or vision of what they want to do, but they give up due to expectations from their parents or other reasons. Many people just follow steps made up by someone else, as opposed to dedicating time and effort to do what they personally want.” bangkok101.com

Saki went on to say that even failing can be okay, and that it can actually be a key to becoming successful. Wise words from someone specializing in making those with a sweet tooth happy!

Arisara ‘Paper’ Chongphanitkul As a rising star in Bangkok and on the international culinary scene, Arisara ‘Paper’ Chongphanitkul recently made waves by becoming the first Thai woman to compete in an international competition by participating in the ‘Ladies World Pastry Championship’ in Rimini, Italy, showcasing the talents of women pastry chefs from around the world. Chef Paper—as she is nicknamed— studied at the Gastronomicum pastry school in France and then worked in Paris and Brussels with master pastry chefs Sadaharu Aoki and Hugues Pouget at the world-famous Laurent Gerbaud of Brussels. She now heads the Issaya La Patisserie, a culmination of her and Chef Ian Kittichai’s work in the pastry kitchen. The duo have even produced a beautifully illustrated cookbook, featuring the recipes of all of their favourite sweets. Chef Paper said her greatest challenges these days are being a leader and being responsible. She remembered her days in Europe and remarked “When I was in Brussels and Paris, I was just interning, I was just doing a job and nobody was following me, but now I am a leader with a team. If you do things wrong, the whole team can collapse. I always have to push myself and improve, otherwise I will stay at the same level.” Paper encourages young women to find inspiration, whether it be from movies, people, or other, and to use this in help finding one’s own style of work. She thinks the world of pastry is becoming more and more appreciated M A RCH 2018 | 29

CITY PULSE | special report

Arisara ‘Paper’ Chongphanitkul; (inset) colourful dessert creation entitled “I Am a Durian” and that it has become edible art, not just about making sweet things. She says, “One should just practice over and over and do the things that you trust, and it will be reflected by those who will experience your dessert.”

Dana Garber It’s not only Thais making up the female contingent of chefs and restaurateurs in Bangkok. Dana Garber, along with her husband Danny, met in China a decade ago, while teaching English in a small town. Missing good old American barbecue, they decided to open up the “Pug,” named after their pet dog. They started a BBQ joint in Chengdu, but decided after several years and multiple visits, that Bangkok was more to their liking, and better suited to their ideas, and thus their fantastic Texas-style ribs joint was launched, and became the talk of the town, packed nightly with expats and locals clamouring for the baby back ribs and strong drinks to wash them down with. The lines outside their intimate Surawong eatery became so long that Smokin’ Pug celebrated the arrival of 2018 by relocating to a bigger venue right next to Lumphini Park, ensuring that all the rib lovers in town would be able to join in on the fun. Upon asking Dana for her take on being a woman running a restaurant here, she offered some great responses. She noted that while Thailand offered its own challenges, being a female in the restaurant industry in the U.S. was even harder. Managing restaurants with male dominated kitchens often made for sexist comments and an uncomfortable work dynamic. Here in Thailand it is more of an issue of strong women being seen as unattractive or feared, and it takes a bit more to earn respect. For example, if the man in charge gets angry, he is just doing his job, whereas if a woman does, she is just being bitchy, at that time of the month, and will most certainly lose face for her actions. Dana remarked 30 | M A RCH 2018

that in China, people were often shocked, wondering how on earth a 30-something woman was out running a restaurant until 2am, as opposed to being at home focused on kids. Dana added that perhaps an even larger challenge emerges here in Bangkok—that of being a foreigner, and trying to get staff to see one as something more than this, although the difficulties are well outdistanced by the rewards of having a full restaurant each evening with people from around the globe enjoying a fun and positive slice of American culture. And as with other husband-andwife kitchen teams, Dana agrees that two is always better than one. “Since Danny and I met in China twelve years ago, we have only spent about ten days apart, and I believe that building businesses abroad has made our relationship

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special report | CITY PULSE

Smoky BBQ rib rack at the Smokin’ Pug incredibly strong,” she says. “While we do get frustrated over different management styles, but we are always able to laugh at things over a drink at the end of the night.” Dana encourages young women heading into the business to just go for it, and to be firm, but try to keep emotions separate from the job unless you want to be judged for that. She adds that you might have to work a little bit harder than a man, but that shouldn’t deter anyone from following their dreams.

Garima Arora A Mumbai native with a virtuoso culinary resume, Chef Garima Arora graduated from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, worked at the fashionable Parisienne boulangerie Le Quartier du Pain, and then did a stint at the two-starred Michelin gastro mecca Noma in Copenhagen. While in Denmark, Arora was contacted by Bangkok’s own Gaggan Anand, chef and owner of the two Michelin-starred Gaggan, a reputable restaurant which has also been ranked number one on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants for three straight years. Anand wanted to do a restaurant project with Arora in Mumbai, and she came to Bangkok to train with him at Gaggan. The Mumbai project ended up not happening, but Arora decided to stay. With her Bangkok mentor’s blessings she opened up Gaa, which features her modern eclectic culinary fare inspired by her worldwide cooking experiences. Chef Garima remarks that Bangkok isn’t much different when it comes to the challenges faced by female chefs, or chefs in general, around the globe. “The struggles of a kitchen are the same everywhere. The long hours, time away from friends and family, and the physically demanding nature of the job are universal,” she says. “As women in the kitchen, we face the same struggles as our male counterparts-setting up a business, running it successfully, and dealing with the intricacies of it all.” It’s all worthwhile though. Arora adds, “You get to see your vision come to life alongside a diverse and passionate team.” She also thinks that perhaps here in Bangkok it is a little different because of the fact that Gaa is hers. “This being my own restaurant, I try to bring a little sense of compassion and care into the kitchen, and bangkok101.com

Garima Arora (top); Crayfish, eggfruit and pomelo also create an opportunity for a better quality of life and better work life balance.” In December 2017 Gaa was awarded a Michelin Plate, a just reward for all her efforts. “My advice to any chef, male or female,” she says, “is to keep your head down, learn, work, work hard, and work with integrity.”

Bongkoch ‘Bee’ Satongun “Cooking was not a choice for me as I was born in to it,” admits Chef Bongkoch ‘Bee’ Satongun, explaining that she comes from a cooking family background. “I grew up in a big family and my mother owned a small shop. Each day she would prepare dishes and that’s where I started to understand cooking.” Satongun started cooking professionally when she met her partner, Australian chef Jason Bailey. The two of them opened restaurants together in Australia, winning awards M A RCH 2018 | 31

CITY PULSE | special report “It’s more commercialized. There is no time to prepare your own sauces or to cook your food properly. I want to bring back the flavours of my childhood and introduce them to the world.” Bee, now 41, says that being a top female chef here certainly has its challenges, as one has to be able to lead strongly as well as being able to pass one’s ideas on to the next chefs in line. Although she adds that time is actually on the women’s side, because even though high end restaurant chefs have been predominantly male, women have been manning the kitchens for a long, long time. “If you look at the history of Thai food,” she begins, “it was traditionally made in the past by female cooks in aristocrat households and thus there are many old women who have been cooking for more than 50 years and have such an in-depth knowledge of the cuisine that things just flow naturally for them.” When asked what it is like to run a restaurant business like this with her partner, she admitted that on the one hand it was initially quite difficult, as one is together all the time with one’s partner in a kitchen—a place that is both pressure intense, hot, and exceedingly fast-paced. She said that she and Jason fought a lot initially in the kitchen, but easily learned to switch that off after work, and that since the two are constantly creating and running everything as a team, she couldn’t imagine doing it any other way. For young ladies who want to follow in her footsteps, Bee advises plenty of patience, perseverance, focus, and always following one’s dream. She also emphasizes that young chefs must learn and respect traditional dishes, recipes, techniques, and the overall heritage of Thai cuisine, using it as a foundation before moving on to modern innovations.

Purida ‘Pu’ Theeraphong

‘Bee’ Satongun (top); Char-grilled sweet prawns for their talents and then coming to Bangkok to open a fine dining restaurant for Thais, the result of which has been the much acclaimed Paste, which combines modern techniques while keeping traditional Thai flavours and authenticity, trying to create dishes that evoke a strong sense of Thailand. In December of 2017 Paste became one of the seven Thai restaurants in Bangkok to be awarded a Michelin star in the Bangkok edition of the famed “little red book”, but accolades continue to be heaped upon both Bee and her restaurant. On February 6th, 2018, she was awarded the title of Asia’s Best Female Chef 2018, as part of this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, taking place March 23rd in Macao (see full story on pg. 87). “We want to keep the taste authentic,” Bee says, explaining her award-winning food philosophy. “We feed our creativity into the form, so the presentation might not be what people are used to, but the flavour stays true. “These days, Thai food is lacking in flavour,” she adds. 32 | M A RCH 2018

Acclaimed Chef Purida ‘Pu’ Theeraphong presides over the kitchen at Bangkok’s elegant Osha, the luxurious Thai restaurant chain that first began in San Francisco and went on to open six branches there, serving traditional Thai food with modern and creative touches. Osha returned to the motherland in 2014, opening a branch in Bangkok with Chef Purida taking over as Executive Corporate Chef a year later. Osha has been a hugely popular edition to the Bangkok Thai fine dining scene, and a second branch opened up at Asiatique just over a year ago. Theeraphong received a degree in commercial cooking at TAFE in Sydney, the Australian Government’s leading food education institute. This was followed by a decade of working in Australia, which included a stint as head chef at the renowned Spice Lovers. Chef Pu then returned to Thailand to work as the Executive Chef at the Radisson Plaza in Phuket, and then at Su Tha Ros in The Muse hotel right here in Bangkok. She also beat out several of the head honchos in the ‘Iron Chef Thailand’ competition, becoming the first woman to win the Iron Chef award, and has since brought her many talents into the kitchen of Osha. Like some of the other leading ladies of Bangkok’s gastronomy scene, Chef Pu echoes a familiar sentiment that a career in the kitchen isn’t necessarily any harder bangkok101.com

special report | CITY PULSE or easier—whether it’s here in Bangkok, Sydney, or elsewhere—as there are the same challenges for chefs and women to take on. “Female chefs have to prove themselves as being able to work under pressure and be detail-oriented more than men,” she says. “But they have to lead the team in the kitchen the same as men must, and this has to be proven everywhere.” Theeraphong says her greatest rewards in Thailand have come from having successfully managed large functions where there have been more than 2,000 guests. “Being responsible for all the individual details and then getting feedback that everything went well is a great honour.” Meanwhile, her advice for young ladies headed into the biz is short but sweet. “Always have patience, learn and practice often, give attention to every dish, be detailoriented, and most importantly, love what you do!”

Supinya Jusunta

Purida Theeraphong (top); Ocean and flora salad

Most people wouldn’t imagine that a career spent standing hunched over a street-side smoky wok set on a charcoal burning fire, while wearing protective ski goggles, would be something for a young lady to aspire to. However, Chef Supinya Jusunta, better known as ‘Jay Fai’ (Auntie Fai) is kind of the antihero of Bangkok’s all-star female gastronomy line-up, perhaps separated somewhat from the rest of the leading ladies pack due to her eatery’s humble streetside shophouse digs. Nevertheless, her meteoric rise to fame is certainly something to be cheered. Jay Fai has spent almost four decades presiding over a hole-in-the-wall kitchen—simply known as Jay Fai restaurant—in Bangkok’s Old Town, where she is the lone cook whipping up crab omelettes, rad na, and pad kee mao “drunkard’s noodles”. She uses immensely large and insanely fresh portions of seafood,

Jay Fai: From manning the fires of her kitchen (left), to winning a coveted Michelin star bangkok101.com

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CITY PULSE | special report and charges prices ten times that of normal street food eateries, but foodie fanatics, along with legions of Mercedes driving, well-heeled society swells, line up curbside each night to get their fill. Food critics have raved about her street food for some time, and when the Bangkok Michelin Guide was published in December of 2017, it continued in its recent tradition of paying homage to local traditions (they gave a chicken and rice hawker cart in Singapore a star) by giving a nod to Jay Fai as the only shophouse “street food” restaurant in Thailand worthy of a coveted star. Jay Fai has mixed feelings about the Michelin award and all the attention that is following in its wake. She says she is happy that Thai chefs and Thai food are getting international attention, but wondered why she only now received an award she’d never even heard of.

“I’ve been cooking for 30-40 years, why did they just find me now?” she retorts, with her usual acerbic downhome drollery. Auntie Fai added that she hopes that other restaurants around town, rather than hers, be given the award next year, as she’s found it hard to cope with lines of tourists now queuing up to three hours or more to try to get a table. She adds that she’s been exhausted from trying to satisfy everyone, even needing one of her daughters to come help her full time to try and handle the crowds. But whether such accolades are regarded as a blessing or a curse, one thing is certain; with all the talent coming out of Bangkok innumerable kitchens, food lovers in this city are ensured of having sated appetites for many years to come. And a hearty salute goes out to all the passionate chefs—male and female—for making it all happen.

PHATCHARA ‘POM’ PIRAPAK: GUEST CHEF SERIES IN PHUKET The set menu begins with an appetizer of mud crab wrapped with ginger, chili, and citrus in wild betel leaf. This is followed by a pomelo salad with crayfish, and a coconut soup with lotus stem and scallop. Next up will be a dish of river prawn with stir-fried vermicelli and curry sauce (below), before a fine tenderloin Panang curry—made from a recipe originating in the south of Thailand—arrives complemented by a serving of nutritious riceberry rice. Finally, a dessert of marian plum in citrus caps off this unforgettable feast. For more information, or to make reservations, please call 07 634 2400, or send an email to: phuket@banyantree.com.

Notoriously shy, and still shy of 30, Chef Phatchara ‘Pom’ Pirapak (above) is the queen of the kitchen at Saneh Jaan, the renowned restaurant on Wireless Road which was awarded a Michelin star back in December of 2017. Her culinary creations are described in the guide as “dishes crafted from ancient recipes…a mix of classics and hard-to-find recipes.” And although this Bangkok restaurant is well worth a visit, if you happen to be in Phuket in mid-April you can sample some of this lovely lady’s divine delicacies when she appears at The Banyan Tree Phuket resort as part of the ongoing ‘Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef Series’ presented by Sanpellegrino and Acqua Panna. For two days in April the demure Chef Pom will be “manning” the kitchen at the Banyan Tree Phuket’s Saffron restaurant, serving a set dinner on Friday April 6th, and Saturday April 7th. Both dinners are at 7:30pm and are priced at B3,500, but for just B4,800 diners can opt for the wine pairing menu in which carefully selected wines are served with each course.

34 | M A RCH 2018

Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef Series: Designed to demonstrate how the finest natural mineral waters can be used to enhance the greatest of dining experiences, this series brings renowned chefs to Thailand from top dining destinations around the world, and also showcases top chefs from Thailand’s own creative restaurant scene. For more inspiration on food and wine trends, stories, profiles, and videos around the world visit Fine Dining Lovers, an online magazine sponsored by SanPellegrino and Acqua Panna. www.finedininglovers.com

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SNAPSHOTS | insight

Sutee Kunavichayanont, Socio-political criticism wittily expressed in Thai Pop Art (portrait by BACC) 36 | M A RCH 2018

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insight | SNAPSHOTS

Sutee Kunavichayanont M any artists depict and criticize society and politics, but only a few possess the wit and flair of Sutee Kunavichayanont, who turns his opinions and reflections into Pop Art pieces. Born in Bangkok, Sutee fulfilled his early artistic education at the College of Fine Arts and at Silpakorn University. Then he obtained a Master’s Degree in Visual Arts at the University of Sydney, where he was exposed to a freedom of thinking in which ideas and concepts superseded techniques and forms. In contrast to the practicing and teaching of arts in the conventional methods, Sutee explored various media, branching out beyond his first forays in drawing and printmaking. Upon returning home to Thailand he started to teach art theory at his alma mater Silpakorn while still practicing his own art. “I was more introspective and focussed on the spiritual aspect of life,” he says of his early years. “I tried to interpret and visualize images from Buddhist teachings and Abbot Buddhadasa’s words. I used both abstract and realistic symbols to encapsulate these concepts.” Sutee also mentions that during his past two prolific decades he was

NOW NEW NEXT Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he meets with creative minds and artistic souls from both Thailand and overseas. From traditional, to contemporary and avant-garde, he finds out about the visions, inspirations, and creations of these talented individuals. bangkok101.com

inspired by contemporary artistic styles and perspectives in various forms— from installations to mixed visual media. Encouraged by the interest in Southeast Asian art by international art institutions, media, and collectors, artists like Sutee began to exhibit more works stimulated by changes in society, politics, and history. His concepts thus developed from spirituality into social commentary and critiques. “We went to Sukhothai on a study trip with Ajarn Sumol Srisaeng and students,” he recalls. “I saw broken stucco reliefs of an elephant with its head and trunk separated but placed like jigsaw puzzle pieces. I was so touched that I created the ‘White Elephant’ series to express my ideas about something that is gone, or extinct, but we try to keep it alive. It can be interpreted in different viewpoints. Simplistically, elephants—a symbol of Thailand on old Siamese flags and cultural icon—are in peril. Historically, it means that our traditions and customs are in a maltreated state. These social issues represent sickness in our society. Ecologically, it also means that our natural environment is under threat. We can only try to sustain it. The whole thing represents contradictions in reality. Is our culture and nature dead or alive?” Sutee’s works often show dichotomy such as delicateness vs. aggression in the ‘Elegant Middle Finger’ works, or sincerity vs. secrecy in the ‘Half Truth’ series. Among Sutee’s themes of socio-economic, political, and cultural changes, the ‘History Class’ series has been one of the most engaging installations. This interactive project starts from 14 desks telling 12 stories to 23 tables telling 20 stories. Audience members can participate by sitting, rubbing the engraved images, and taking their works home. Also exhibited in Japan, the stories on these desks question our educational system and beyond. More desks and stories are to come. One of Sutee’s statements on his works reads: “Thailand is in debt to its artists because they bring harmony to the community by making non-political

statements through their work.” On another it states: “Artists are not pure enough to break away from politics.” Both statements give insight into his view of himself as an artist. “I don’t think that as an artist, we can actually change society much, or make a direct impact on it,” he laments. “I can only hope that the unpleasant situations will improve. I just express my opinions and stimulate the viewer’s mind, but I don’t offer the solutions. For example, Thailand’s art education system is difficult to change because of organizational culture and institutional branding. We can develop it by putting an emphasis on ideas and intellectualism, rather than techniques and skills, which are already there. If one reads and learns more about theory and history, one will become like a ‘tiger with wings’—strong in both body and mind.” His creations balance and integrate conceptual and critical thinking and visual execution. While presenting potent images, he playfully probes complex problems on local and global identity, cultural convention, history, and nationalism. His knack for layering ideas into his works makes the merely two-dimensional surface pop. “My visual style is highly graphic,” Sutee explains. “It’s not painterly with brushstrokes and such. It’s more Pop Art, because it incorporates printmaking, typography, and visual puns. I’m also charmed by the retro or vintage style of Thailand’s mid-20th century. I try to capture that period’s mood and ambience into my works. Being an art educator, I admire all periods and styles. I’m influenced by Andy Warhol, Marcel Duchamp, Hem Vejakorn, and even Montien Boonma’s local and meaningful, historical material selections.” Interestingly, Sutee’s nickname is ‘Pop’. Is he Thailand’s contemporary version of Andy Warhol? Having written several books on art, Sutee is forever compiling notes about international contemporary art compared with that of Thailand, plus analyzing his own works. He plans a new series to express the stories of identity and ego by looking at the history of “I”, or “me”, in everyone’s psyche. M A RCH 2018 | 37

SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand

The Tombstone of the Water Buffalo

Tourism projects alone will not lift this stalwart icon of Thai culture—and farming—off its last legs Words and photos by Jim Algie

n Thailand, buffaloes may bear the brunt of jokes and insults about their stupidity, but some people are convinced that they’re far more useful than some human beings. One such person is the abbot of Bangkok’s ‘Buffalo Head Temple’ (Wat Hua Krabeu), located on the outskirts of Bangkok near Samut Sakhon province—the only district of the city with an ocean-view and a beard of mangrove forest. “Buffaloes help us in the rice fields and their manure is good for the soil. Even when they die, their skins and horns are still useful. But bad people contribute nothing to society,” said the elderly Phra Khru Wiboon Pattanakit at his temple on Bangkhuntien-Chai Taley Road. “Why do people call buffaloes stupid? Bad people are much worse.” As a tribute to these once ubiquitous beasts of burden, who 38 | M A RCH 2018

served as steeds for Siamese soldiers to ride into battle, the abbot is building an eight-metre-high pagoda of buffalo skulls with a tunnel at its base so that cars can drive through it. So far, the 260-year-old temple has collected about 8,000 skulls, but they need 10,000 to construct the pagoda and tunnel. Many of the skulls were donated by villagers in the surrounding district of ‘Buffalo Head’. They are scattered around and piled up in front of one of the main halls of worship. The memorial could very well serve as an epitaph for what is already a dying breed in Thailand. According to the government’s Livestock Department, the buffalo population has plummeted from around 6.7 million heads in 1990 to a little over a million in 2016, as farmers rely increasingly on the gas-powered ploughs introduced to Thailand in the 1960s. Sharpening the horns of

this dilemma is the fact that around 300,000 animals are butchered in the name of protein every year, while only 200,000 calves are born. Most of the beasts that end up in the slaughterhouse are females—an unhealthy number of them pregnant. What has further reduced the population is the fact that the males, favoured for their brawn, are castrated to make them even brawnier. In tourism, the most prominent festival keeping the animal off its last legs is the annual Buffalo Races, held every October in front of City Hall in Chon Buri province. Using a bamboo switch for a riding crop, the jockeys ride their charges bareback down a 100-metre-long course. In every heat, five or six of them compete for a grand prize of around 20,000 baht. Or at least that’s the premise. But some of the beasts are content to mill around the starting line. Most of bangkok101.com

bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS the races have a minimum of three or four false starts, and a fair number of the bovines buck their riders off only a few metres down the track. Once they get running, however, the buffalo charge down the track with a velocity that could be measured in double-digit horsepower, and watching the riders dismount near the finishing line with breakneck leaps from their backs is an act of pure dare-devilry. To keep the crowds on their toes, now and then a buffalo runs amok, charging into the crowd so people scatter like pool balls after a break. The competition is more than 130 years old. When it was first held, Chon Buri was the biggest market place on the eastern seaboard. After ‘Buddhist Lent’, when the farmers came to town, the races first began as an informal joke, spurred by booze and macho bravado. In the decades to come, more events were added to race day: a beauty contest for the beasts—their fur dyed with different colours and horns bedecked with flowers—and a ‘Miss Farmer’ beauty pageant for young women. Now, it’s a full-fledged spectacle attended by thousands of locals and a few hundred tourists. Running a distant second in the bovine tourism sweepstakes is the Buffalo Villages near the capital of Suphan Buri province, a few hours north of Bangkok. However, during the bus trip there, I scanned the rice

Bizarre

Thailand

Author Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the collection of short stories entitled The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (2014), and his most recent novel, On the Night Joey Ramone Died. Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com

paddies and farmyards but didn’t spot a single buffalo. The village itself is a déjà vu of Siam’s bygone days—minus the squalour and the machetes that villagers used to keep beside their sleeping mats—with wooden houses on stilts, carefully coiffed gardens, a fortune teller’s abode, and a Siamese merchant’s place of business. The signs and brochures impart history lessons in animal husbandry; archaeologists have unearthed evidence that farmers used the domesticated breed of water buffalo in the area some 1,300 years ago. The twice-daily ‘Buffalo Shows’ take place in a dirt arena with a grandstand overhung by a thatched roof. On a weekday afternoon in the soggy season I was the only Caucasian in a “crowd” of seven or eight people, mostly older women. The first buffalos were led into the arena, ambled up a wooden stairway, and then, in a deathdefying feat, continued ambling along a wooden beam through a couple of hoops nailed to the platform. Another man, wearing the blue cotton outfit favoured by rural folks, led a brown beast by a rope through its nostrils. After much coaxing and pushing down on its neck, the animal knelt on its forelegs to the astonishment of absolutely no one. For what was supposed to be the showstopper, a young boy laid down on the dirt and a bovine performer, lured by a handler with a fistful of bananas, walked up, ate a few of them, nosed around in the dirt, flogged some flies with its tail, ate a few more bananas and then... defecated. But wait, the show wasn’t over yet. The buffalo then wiggled its ears, looked around and, following the bananas in the trainer’s hand, walked over the boy without actually crushing him to death. Unless buffaloes are pulling a plough, or served on a plate, they are sadly and tragically useless. To think that any tourism spectacles (even the Buffalo Races) are ever going to save herds of them from the abattoir

is futile. My disappointment with the show was diminished somewhat by getting to feed them out of my hand afterwards and laughing when they licked me with their sandpapery tongues. Not even fawns have such large, liquid eyes. When one of the male staff members helped to prop me up on the back of a beautiful albino female for a ride, I was leery of getting bucked off, but buffalo lack the skittish temperament that marks all equines as ‘dark horses’. At the Buffalo Villages, after feeding time, an old rice farmer with a conical hat and plaid shirt took me for a bumpy ride in a buffalo cart. As he urged his two animals onwards with a bamboo switch, we bantered about the 2001 historical drama feature film Bang Rajan (above), starring the most famous Thai buffalo of them all, Boon-lert, who acted as the ‘warhorse’ for the film’s hero. The historical settlement of Bang Rajan is in Sing Buri province, not far from here. Outside the town is a monument to the battle and slain heroes. Set in the 18th century, Bang Rajan is based on a real-life story of heroism, in which a rag-tag group of Siamese villagers—fighting with homemade weapons—staved off eight different attacks, by a total of 100,000 Burmese soldiers, before finally going down in defeat. The film garnered some impressive plaudits when it was released in the United States in 2004 and presented by Oliver Stone. One American critic called it “the Saving Private Ryan of ancient Thailand”. Another compared the climactic battle scene to Colonel Custer’s last stand at the Alamo.

This is an updated excerpt from Jim Algie's book Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourism attractions.

M A RCH 2018 | 39

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Woodworking Wizardry of Local Guitar Maker Renowned luthier Narong Visesnut crafts world-class guitars and guitar cases in his hidden Chinatown workshop By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

p a flight of stairs toward the very back of a cavernous auto parts showroom and warehouse in Chinatown, a small dusty room is stacked with fragrant slabs of spruce, cedar, and rosewood. Medieval-looking hand-tools dangle from walls. Power saws and wood forms are mounted on heavy work tables. Half-carved guitar necks and un-lacquered guitar tops await assembly and finishing. This ramshackle part of Bangkok is the last place you’d expect to find a luthiery specializing in classical guitars, but for Narong Visesnut, owner of Visesnut Guitars, situating his workshop in the family’s home warehouse and offices makes it easy for him to commute between business and passion. Narong started playing classical guitar as a child and never stopped 40 | M A RCH 2018

playing, even when he later developed a successful business supplying injection-moulded plastic components to the automotive and electronics industries. While the business provided a comfortable living for his family, Narong’s passion for the guitar still gathered steam under the surface. It developed a fresh angle when he became interested in guitar-building over 10 years ago. “I spent a year reading every book on luthiery I could find, and searching the Internet for places where I could order tools and materials,” says Narong. “I wasn’t such a great musician, but I thought I might be able to make nice instruments for other guitarists.” He built his first classical guitar from a kit in 2007. He still keeps it close at hand as a reminder of how far he has come in the world of crafting these magnificent musical instruments.

In the intervening years, Narongsak has made trips abroad to learn more about the art of building guitars from master luthiers in the USA, Spain, Germany, and Japan. “I’ve learned along the way that you need a certain boldness to undertake the craft," he admits. "It’s not for the faint-hearted, as sometimes woods will crack while being cured or shaped, and you have to start over from scratch.” Narongsak typically uses imported spruce or cedar for the soundboards of his guitars, and Indian rosewood for the back and sides. “These are the tried and true woods favoured by the masters, so I tend to stick with them,” he notes while showing off chalk-marked samples in his workshop. “You can get away with using a few Thai woods for interior bracing, bangkok101.com

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS even sometimes for the neck. But, in general, tropical woods are too hard and dense. They tend to block sound vibrations.” For the bridge he chooses Brazilian rosewood. For the fingerboard and headstock faceplate, he uses ultrafine-grained ebony. In addition, he encircles the sound hole of each guitar with an intricate mosaic of tiny, multi-hued pieces of wood. With such attention to detail, Narongsak is only able to build about five classical guitars each year, which mostly go to customers in Southeast Asia. If you should be interested in ordering one, expect to join a threeyear waiting list. Meanwhile, prices starting in and around the 100,000 baht range. Though a master at crafting the instrument, Narongsak may have found his true calling in a line of premium ultra-light guitar cases he started building a few years ago. His revolutionary design, which he constructs entirely by himself, weighs a mere three kilos empty, far less than most other cases, and is exceptionally strong, easily supporting the weight of a 90-kilo person standing flat on the lid. As a classical guitarist himself, Narongsak—now in his late 50s—is sensitive to the particular needs of his fellow musicians. “I started designing prototypes a year and a half ago because I wasn’t

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

happy with classical guitar cases available elsewhere,” he says. “I have scratched guitars on the metal latches when removing them from their cases. The Hokkaido spruce top of my prized Kohno guitar cracked once when the guitar fell from the case because I couldn’t tell whether it was latched or not.” He goes on to say that his target market is performing artists who travel frequently, whether to and from concerts or between home and conservatory. “They typically own very expensive, hand-crafted instruments," he explains, "so they need a case that is extremely protective but also very light. Carrying heavy cases can cramp the hands and fingers and affect performance.” The light, double-walled urethane body of the case is designed to absorb impact and insulate the contents from extreme temperature changes. With his company’s background in the custom design and manufacturing of high-quality plastic components, Narongsak was uniquely qualified to experiment with the material in a way that most instrument case manufacturers are not. The velvet interior of the Visesnut case features a thickly cushioned suspension system that fits around the perimeter of the guitar body and, by means of pull-straps and Velcro, can be adjusted for a snug fit. Once the form is adjusted, the guitar doesn’t shift inside the case. It also means the case will fit guitars of varying size. Visesnut guitar cases are the only cases in the world with this unique design feature.

Stainless steel locking latches were custom-made for Visesnut to eliminate protruding parts which might impale or scratch the guitar if the lid were to accidentally close while removing or inserting the instrument. The exterior of the case includes backpack straps, another feature rarely seen in a hard shell guitar case. Plastic bumpers also ensure stability when the case is standing in either a vertical or horizontal position. Meanwhile, the lid and body meet with a special cushioned gasket seal to ensure humidity control and tighten contact between lid and body for superior case integrity in the event of severe blows to the exterior. A thick, comfortable leather handle is conveniently placed in the curve between neck and body to achieve a sleek profile. On the company website the prices are in US dollars, but the Premier Series cases are in the neighbourhood of about B26,000, depending on the finish ordered, while the less expensive Active Series cases go for about B18,000. Narongsak also offers an optional soft case cover for additional thermal insulation and shock resistance. The heavy-duty, rip-stop nylon bag features YKK zippers with leather pulls and enclosed rain flaps to repel water away from the case.

Visesnut Guitars Workshop 92 Santiphap Rd Tel: 081 668 5340 www.visesnutguitar.com www.visesnutcase.com

M A RCH 2018 | 41

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Thai Thai

How soi life became retro heritage – Part 4

in a vacuum without informed comparison and insiderven some institutions admit the need to pose outsider awareness? questions such as: “How real is true Thainess? In an architecture class I attended at Thailand’s What on earth does it mean? Were the cavemen top university, students were asked to name uniquely Thai?” asks a panel at MuseumSiam, which since Thai things, but their many suggestions all originated 2008 has showcased the country’s diversity. One of its elsewhere. Thais are often shocked to learn that the exhibitions, Xenomania, exposed the imports within tuk-tuk is not Thai, but a Japanese invention adapted in Thainess. various ways by 34 countries on four continents. Motorsai Siam has often purged foreign influence if it goes exist elsewhere, too, like the oyek of Jakarta. There’s no beyond style into shaping ideas, whether ejecting French exclusivity, but no shame, in having a really great variant. Catholics, banning Chinese language, blaming the 1932 Thainess has long traded on its exotic allure to revolt on foreign education, or the anti-IMF rhetoric after outsiders, but its difference from 1997, when Thaksin Shinawatra said the West is too great to catch “The UN is not my father.” Many the subtleties of what is ‘Thai’. Yellow Shirts fear globalization as Those specifics become clearer a threat to Thainess and turned by comparison with overlapping anti-American, while the 2014 junta neighbours: Laoness, Khmerness, courted China. All sides vie to be more Malayness, Chineseness, Burmeseness, Thai than thou. Indianness. Admitting similarities “Mounting Thai xenophobia would be excruciating for any Thais has the potential to deconstruct the who harbour a superiority complex, country’s image as a land of great but unavoidable in the looming reality hospitality and open-mindedness,” of ASEAN integration and verification wrote Pavin Chachavalpongpun in via Internet. Increased knowledge, ‘Farang cannot “know” – even if they comparison and criticism will force a do understand’, an article noting the re-appraisal of Thainess. It may clarify complaint by some Thais at foreign that the national character lies less in views on the Red Shirt siege of 2010, exclusivity and more in the way Thai the anti-Thaksin ‘Bangkok Shutdown’ culture adapts things through the filter siege of 2013-14, and the coups of of its values to make them feel Thai. 2006 and 2014. “The discourse on Ultimately what unites Thainess the ‘impenetrable Thai world’ has The classic Thai tuk tuk? is embedded in the very language. continued to arbitrarily serve as a The word ‘Thai’, differently spelled, means ‘free’, as in political shield for traditional leaders to undermine any independent. Beyond pride in being uncolonized, believing threat that arises from the supposedly incompatible Thailand is the ‘Land of the Free’ turns daily life into a farang world.” dance of liberties. You see it in the Thai take on timing, Still, a major reason Siam wasn’t colonized—and driving, planning, copying, and the law. It explains “face”, remains distinctive—is that Thais are xenophiles of foreign and the need for smiles to reconcile opposites: sauciness style, but xenophobic to foreign ideas, so that they don’t with prudery, tolerance with tyrants, the righteous with compromise their core. This leads many to assert that the shameless. This insight smooths contradictions, outside norms don’t apply, that the “very” in ‘Very Thai’ conforms to karma, and makes siwilai and khwam pen thai must be due to Thai cultural exceptionalism. This is the consistent with ‘Thai Thai’. grist of all nationalisms, but many Thais claim outsiders “Tam arai dtam jai keu Thai tae,” said Paravi in a are incapable of knowing Thainess. Unfortunately, the discussion at TCDC on vernacular design: “Real Thainess is accusation fires both ways. Are Thais able to understand doing whatever you want.” the rest of the world? And can a nation understand itself

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 42 | M A RCH 2018

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

WHAT’S NEXT? The Future of Global Gastronomy Tuesday, March 13th, 2018 | Venue: Mandarin Oriental Hotel Bangkok

Gert De Mangeleer

from 3-Michelin-starred Hertog Jan (Brugge, Belgium)

Cristina Bowerman

from 1-Michelin-starred Glasshouse (Rome, Italy)

Gaggan Anand

from 1-Michelin-starred Sühring (Bangkok, Thailand)

from 1-Michelin-starred Nerua (Bilbao, Spain)

Arnaud Dunand-Sauthier

from 2-Michelin-starred Gaggan (Bangkok, Thailand)

Thomas & Mathias Sühring

Josean Alija

from 2-Michelin-starred Le Normandie (Bangkok, Thailand)

Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajorn from #37 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, LeDu (Bangkok)

Learn more at www.biteforum.com

Fatih Tutak

from #36 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, The House on Sathorn (Bangkok)

SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Captain Bush Lane

Not many foreigners have their name given to a street in Bangkok Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

House No.1, once the residence of Captain John Bush

small street, bordered by the massive silhouette of the Sheraton Royal Orchid Hotel and the adjacent River City shopping mall, was once home to one of the most important personalities in Siam— an Englishman who helped to develop port activities along the Chao Phraya River. This street, known as Captain Bush Lane, and its surrounding area, are being revitalised as part of the newly established ‘Bangkok Creative District’, which has been slowly emerging in and around the Thailand Design and Creative Centre (TCDC), which is now housed in the former General Post Office. But who was Captain John Bush, and why is he among the scant few foreigners to have given their name to a street in Bangkok? Born in England in 1819, John Bush arrived in Siam with his wife, in 1857, following the signing of the Bowring Treaty between Siam and Britain. This treaty opened trading to

4 4 | M A RCH 2018

foreign companies and, at the same time, gave large commercial and extrajudicial concessions to British interests. Flourishing trade saw a rise in activities along the Chao Phraya River, and King Mongkut (King Rama IV) soon asked Captain John Bush for his help in help managing and regulating port activities along the river. Bush then received the title of Harbour Master, a position that he kept for the next 30 years. He also had the honour of being the Captain of the ships that both King Mongkut and King Chulalongkorn (King Rama V) used when travelling around the Kingdom or abroad. He was bestowed with a Siamese knighthood under the royal title of Luang Wisoot Sakoradit Chao Ta. However, Captain Bush was not only a Harbour Master, he was also a skilled businessman, creating the Bangkok Dock Co. Ltd, one of the largest and oldest engineering and shipping companies at that time. In a book about Siam dating back to 1908,

the Bangkok Dock Company Ltd. is reported to have “two dry docks, three slipways capable of taking small steamers”. The book goes on to say that “during 1907, the company built no less than 18 launches (small vessels) while 45 vessels were docked in the large dock”. The Bangkok dock was also contracted to create the Royal Naval Dock, had a motor garage, and electric and mechanical workshops as well. By building his fortune, the captain became one of the wealthiest men in Siam at that time, with a fortune estimated at 1.2 million baht (building a house at that time cost only 10,000 baht!). He also acquired plots of land along the new developing Charoen Krung Road, also called New Road, which was the centre of the European district. In the small alley which is today Charoen Krung Soi 30, he built a splendid villa with a front arcade surmounted by a large pediment, copying Northern Italian mansions in Palladian style. bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS The address was, back then, quite prestigious. Standing at the mouth of Klong Padung Krung Kasem, the structure had a direct view on the river and stood next to the Portuguese Embassy—today the oldest embassy in Thailand—with its superb Peranakanstyle mansion house, built in 1860 (and later expanded around 1875). The house was just facing the grand façade of the Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, and stood close to the British Consulate, the Custom House, and Bangkok’s first Post Office. After the death of Captain Bush in 1905, the house served for a while as the family’s home, before it was turned—for a time—into the main office of a French distillery company. For many years since, the ramshackle structure has sat quietly in the shadows, awaiting a new lease on life. It was feared that this neo-classical masterpiece would give way to a modern building, such as what happened to the HSBC building when it was replaced in 1982 by the Sheraton Hotel. Fortunately, the property belongs to the Crown Property Bureau which considers “House No.1” to be a structure of

Historic

Bangkok

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

Restored warehouses

Street art

Warehouse 30 shop

Leonowens warehouse

historical value representing a fine example of neoclassical architecture during the reign of King Rama V. Following a two-year restoration, the house reopened to the public in early 2017. Still known as “House No.1”, it is an elegant romantic venue for special events, such as corporate meetings or society weddings. The organization looking after the house welcomes booking enquiries, and lavish decorations and even catering by Michelin star chefs are offered as part of their private function packages. The villa’s interior reflects the early 20th century taste for European style, with its arched windows, painted walls, stucco ceilings, and floor paved with imported marble tiles. Next to the house, near the parking lot, stands a dilapidated building. It is actually the historical warehouse of Louis T. Leonowens Ltd, a business run by the son of the infamous Anna

Leonowens—the British educator of the Royal Children during the reign of King Mongkut, and whose life formed the basis for Margaret Landon’s 1944 book Anna and the King of Siam). While other houses on the premises of the company have all been destroyed this warehouse remains, and should also be restored as part of Bangkok Creative District foundation projects. Opposite to House No.1, past the Sheraton Royal Orchid Hotel, at the corner by the Portuguese Embassy, is the second part of Soi 30 on Charoen Krung. It is lined with 70-year old warehouses, constructed by Japanese. As part of the revitalization project around the TCDC—known as Warehouse 30—they have been carefully restored and converted into art spaces, shops, antique stores, fashion boutiques, and meeting spaces and cafés. It’s the heart of the new creative Bangkok! M A RCH 2018 | 45

Stay in style at the newly opened Rosewood Phuket resort

PHUKET 101 T he island of PHUKET is a picture postcard tropical paradise. It’s sheer size (it measures 576 sq.km), qualifies it as the largest island in Thailand, and the western “sunset” coast is blessed with endless stretches of turquoise ocean and gleaming white sand. Phuket’s overwhelming success is due in part to the fact that, for tourists, every whim is catered to here. Whether you want to book a room at a high-end luxury resort like THE SURIN PHUKET, the LE MERIDIEN PHUKET, or the PHUKET PANWA BEACHFRONT RESORT, or just plunk yourself down in a modest beachside guesthouse, there are accommodations of every type dotting the island. Some of the island’s newest upscale resorts include the exquisite ROSEWOOD PHUKET (located on a secluded 600-metre stretch of secluded beachfront at Emerald Bay), the ultra-glam BABA BEACH CLUB (on Natai Beach), and the hip AVISTA HIDEAWAY (at the southern end of Patong Beach). And if you’re really adventurous, check out the MAITON PRIVATE ISLAND—on Koh Mai Ton, the Andaman Sea’s largest private island—which is about 9 km from Phuket. It’s less of a resort, and more like a family-run Airbnb, but it also offers kayaking, snorkelling, dolphin-sighting trips, and outdoor massages with a view. www.maitonprivateisland.com Foodies, meanwhile, will appreciate the abundance of culinary choices in Phuket—with more amazing restaurants opening up each year. Well established eateries such as ACQUA, THE BOATHOUSE, and the BLUE ELEPHANT have long been on everyone’s restaurant radar, but newer venues such as PRU—the farm-to-table F&B outlet at the fabulous Trisara Resort—are bringing a new wave of dining trends to the island. But there’s more to Phuket than just fancy hotels, decadent dining, and a thriving tourist trade. The island is home to sizeable mountains, jungle rainforests, and almost 400,000 inhabitants who have made the island their home for multiple generations. The locals also boast a unique culture and heritage—evident in everything from the fiery southern cuisine to the (relatively) peaceful co-existence of native Buddhist and Muslim populations. As for outdoor activities, watersports lead the way with an abundance of dive shops offering scuba and snorkelling trips, while a thriving surfing scene takes advantage of the big waves rolling in each day at KATA BEACH. Not far away, a spectacular stretch of white sand coupled with big waves rolling in all day also make KARON BEACH irresistible, while the relaxed feel of KAMALA and SURIN beaches make both perfect holiday havens. And further north, NAI YANG and NAI THON are gorgeous beachfronts within a short drive from the two-terminal PHUKET INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, which handles a huge amount of international and domestic flights daily. For getting around on land taxis are plentiful, but the prices are steep compared to Bangkok (the hour-long trip to Patong from the airport pretty much starts at B800). Motorcycles are available for rent, but be sure to wear your helmet and carry your driver’s license at all times, as police perform random road inspections. There are also local buses and song taews (pickup trucks with bench seating in the back) available, running from Patong and Karon Beach to Phuket Town.

TRAVEL | see & do phuket

What to See, What to Do After hitting the beach, check out these island-wide attractions

Photo by Sunrise Divers

SCUBA DIVING: Although there are many places to scuba dive around Thailand, the waters in and around Phuket are home to some of the world’s top dive destinations. The island is ringed by a number of established dive sites, including several small islands to the south and east: Koh Hae, Koh Raya (Noi and Yai), Koh Yao (Noi and Yai), Hin Daeng, and Hin Muang (also known as ‘Shark Point’ as it is a habitat for harmless leopard sharks). Excursions further afield—to Phang Nga Bay islands to the east, and to the world-famous Surin and Similan Islands to the northwest—are also for the most part operated from Phuket. Of the dozens and dozens of dive companies operating out of Phuket, many also provide liveaboard trips to islands in the Mergui Archipelago off the southern coast of Myanmar. www.scubadiving-phuket.com www.sunrise-divers.com

Photo courtesy of Phuket Elephant Sanctuary

ELEPHANT PARKS: There are three main elephant parks in Phuket, but Phuket Elephant Sanctuary is the pioneer of ethical elephant tourism here, and they go to great lengths to create as natural and peaceful an environment as possible for their jumbo residents. While you can watch and walk with these majestic creatures, interaction beyond that is kept to a strict minimum. There are informative morning and afternoon tours available, and you can volunteer at the sanctuary for up to six days. By contrast, at the Elephant Jungle Sanctuary guests can touch, feed, and photograph the elephants, as well as give them a mud bath and then a rinse in the river. Somewhere in the ethical middle is The Elephant Retirement Park, which allows physical interaction with the elephants, including giving them a mud bath and a wash, however they only accept small groups and no riding is allowed.

48 | M A RCH 2018

bangkok101.com

see & do phuket | TRAVEL

Photo courtesy of Simon Cabaret

STAGE SHOWS: There are several elaborate stage shows to choose from in Phuket, starting with Siam Niramit Phuket—similar to the show of the same name in Bangkok—which takes viewers on a colourful journey through Thailand’s history and culture, and features over 100 actors, 500+ costumes, and even a few elephants. A similar family-friendly stage show can be seen at Phuket FantaSea, an evening theme park which features three main attractions—a Thai culture theatrical show, a theme buffet restaurant, and a shopping street. However, for something more over-the-top, the Phuket Simon Cabaret is an extravagant ladyboy revue that combines music, comedy, and a lot of tight-fitting gowns. There are three performances daily, at 6pm, 7:30pm, and 9pm, and tickets are B1,000 each. www.phuket-simoncabaret.com PHANG NGA BAY: The geographic region known as Phang Nga Bay lies between Phuket and southern Thailand’s mainland. Also known as Ao Phang Nga National Park, it’s characterized by limestone cliffs and karst rock formations that jut out of the water, as well as mangrove forests and small islands. A lot of cut-rate tours take wide-eyed visitors to Khao Phing Kan, which is more popularly known as ‘James Bond Island’ because it appears in the 1974 film The Man with the Golden Gun, but that is hardly the most interesting spot here. Koh Phanak, known for its stunning caves and lagoons, is much more interesting and organized kayak tours—like the ones offered by Simba Sea Trips— deliver a much more rewarding Phang Nga visitor experience. www.simbaseatrips.com/tours/ phang-nga-bay

bangkok101.com

ADVENTURE EXCURSIONS: In contrast with rampant development along coastal areas of the island, Phuket’s interior still offers many hectares of land devoted to the cultivation of rice, rubber, cashew, cacao, pineapple, and coconut, as well as Phuket’s last bit of island rainforest. The Khao Phra Thaew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve covers a mountain range towards the northern end of the island and protects a vast area of evergreen monsoon forest. Jungle hikes to Ton Sai and Bang Pae waterfalls are a popular activity in the reserve, and for just B2,000 per person Paddle Phuket offers a six-hour jungle trek to these idyllic falls. The company, which specializes in stand-up paddleboard (SUP) excursions, also offers a host of other fascinating water-based island adventures as well. www.paddlephuket.com MINING MUSEUM: Mining for tin, which began in the 18th century and drew to a close in the 1960s, is how the first fortunes were made in Phuket. If you want to “dig deeper” into the history of the island’s tin trade, the Phuket Mining Museum, which opened in August 2009, is the place to go. Although it’s a bit out of the way—located in Kathu (once a major area for this industry), on the road between Loch Palm Golf Club and British International School—it’s an interesting diversion and features elaborate displays ranging from scale models of tin mines, to a recreated scene in an opium den (just be aware that most of the signs and descriptions are only in Thai). Looking at these very realistic, and often life-sized dioramas makes one aware of many of the hardships the local citizenry once endured. The museum is open Monday to Saturday, from 8am to 4pm. For info call: 088 766 0962 M A RCH 2018 | 49

TRAVEL | focus on phuket

Cruise Control

Yachting is huge in Phuket these days, with three massive annual events on the island’s seafaring social calendar By Bruce Scott

huket, along with nearby Phang-Nga and Krabi provinces, offer such stunning scenery and anchorages that it is now considered Asia’s top cruising destination. All manner of leisure watercraft, from 80-year-old wooden sloops to the latest high-tech mega yachts, can be found moored among the island’s four privately owned marinas, government marina and deep sea port at Chalong Bay, where the government provides a one-stop service for immigration and customs for any boat or ship arriving in Phuket. Traditionally superyachts would restrict themselves to the Mediterranean for summer, and then cross the Atlantic to the Caribbean, in order to escape the bite of the European winter. However, in the last decade or so many yachts have dropped the Caribbean from their itinerary and chosen to come out to Asia instead. In response to this new found interest, Phuket has recently hosted three superyacht events, and will no doubt host many more in the months and years to come. These are relatively unexplored waters, with less than 10 percent of all superyachts having ever dropped anchor here. KATA ROCKS SUPERYACHT RENDEZVOUS: For the 2nd year in a row the prestigious Kata Rocks Resort, in collaboration with Infinite Luxury, hosted the annual Kata Rocks Superyacht Rendezvous (KRSR), which ran from December 8th to 10th, 2017. By bringing some of 50 | M A RCH 2018

Kata Rocks Superyacht Rendezvous

the world’s most iconic superyacht brands to Phuket, this event promotes the island as not only a leading Southeast Asian luxury destination, but also a superyacht hot spot. The KRSR is an invitation only event, and features a series of bespoke activities, glamorous parties, and social events that effortlessly mix networking and socializing in a relaxed and luxurious environment. It’s an event that appeals to an elite crowd by enticing them to sample a multitude of new and exciting experiences. The next KRSR is scheduled for December 7th to 9th, 2018, but if you can’t wait that long remember that Kata Rocks Resort is open year round, has a great selection of dining outlets and chic accommodations, and hosts a number of interesting events throughout the year. www.katarockssuperyachtrendezvous.com www.katarocks.com THE PHUKET RENDEZVOUS: From January 4th to the 7th, 2018, boating enthusiasts made their way to the Royal Phuket Marina which was the site of the inaugural Phuket RendezVous, a new yachting event showcasing the region’s leading brokers and global boat manufacturers, with the biggest names in both the marine and luxury lifestyle industries. Combining a mix of exhibitions, seminars, activities, and social activities, the four-day event was an unqualified success. The Royal Phuket Marina’s Town Square was transformed into a bangkok101.com

focus on phuket | TRAVEL Working with partners in Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia, and across the region, the organizers hosted exclusive VIP programmes for guests to experience the yachting lifestyle, and a full programme of daily activities and entertainment. The next Phuket Rendezvous is already slated for January 3rd to the 6th, 2019, so mark it in your calendar. www.thephuketrendezvous.com

The Phuket Rendezvous

dynamic hub of activity, with exotic cars on display, daily fashion shows, and a variety of gourmet cuisine pop-ups. On the boardwalk, visitors were treated to an Englishthemed ‘Garden Party’ atmosphere—with decorative sculptures on display and a wide variety of beers, wines, and mouth-watering snacks on offer—while those who wanted to get a closer look at today’s leading marine and luxury products browsed through the displays in the marina and exhibition areas. High-calibre visitors attending the event numbered over 6,000, coming from approximately 70 countries across the globe, including Thailand, Australia, Singapore, USA, the United Kingdom and Russia. Over 100 local and international exhibitors, sponsors, and partners were on hand, as well as 50 on-water boats, plus five superyachts moored off Koh Rang Noi that were accessible by private shuttle. The lavish yacht parties and the elegant surroundings of Royal Phuket Marina both contributed to the overall French Riviera atmosphere. And, most importantly for retailers, a total of eight yachts were sold, including an Azimut 64 Flybrige, an Aquila 36, a Lagoon 450, a Silvercraft 31 HT, a Princess P62 (which was premiered during the show), as well as several of the luxury properties being showcased during the event.

THAILAND YACHT SHOW: By the time you read this the 3rd annual Thailand Yacht Show, organized in partnership with the Government of the Kingdom of Thailand and the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), will have just concluded—running from February 22nd to the 25th at the Ao Po Grand Marina. The event focuses on superyacht tourism and charters in Thailand and the region, offering visitors the opportunity to discover and enjoy luxury yachting lifestyle at its finest. In addition to a grand opening ceremony, visitors this year were treated to sea trails and yacht hops, supercar parades, stunning soirées, fashion shows, and experiential demonstrations. www.thailandyachtshow.com

Thailand Yacht Show

THE HISTORIC KING’S CUP REGATTA Established in 1987, and today considered by many to be Asia’s biggest and most popular sailboat competition, the annual King’s Cup Regatta in Phuket attracts international yachtsmen from all over the globe. In the water off Kata Beach, competitive sailors will race in dinghies, keelboats, and multi-hull vessels. For over 30 years this acclaimed sporting event has been a major island attraction, and those making the trip this year will once again see world-class race teams competing and then celebrating in style at various parties around the island. The King’s Cup Regatta is traditionally held in the first week of December. www.kingscup.com

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TRAVEL | focus on phuket

Smooth Sailing The Hype Luxury Boat Club is an all-day party on the high seas Words and photos by Bruce Scott

huket is a great place for boating, but if you don’t happen to own your own sea-going vessel you can always book a trip on the Hype Luxury Boat Club, which is a large, twin-hulled catamaran that departs daily from the Ao Chalong Pier. The seven-hour trip cruises around the bright blue waters of Chalong Bay, in Southern Phuket, making two stops along the way and treating passengers to an afternoon DJ party that truly “rocks the boat”. Basically the concept is a beach club at sea, and the package includes comfortable lounge spots, plenty of food and drink, a professional crew and helpful hostesses, and a dedicated DJ to keep the beat. Boarding begins at around 11am, and by 11:30am the boat sets sail, heading first to Koh He (also known as Coral Island). Over the course of the next 90 minutes or so, lunch is served—a selection of tapas-style Thai food, sushi, and other dishes—along with a welcome cocktail, while guests settle in for a relaxing trip across the bay. There are two tiers on the boat, and they reflect Hype’s two-tiered ticket pricing system. The Hype Experience (B2,900 per person) entitles guests to a welcome cocktail, soft drink, meal, fresh fruit, and towels, while the Hype VIP Experience (B3,900 per person) gives guests all that plus access to private couple-sized day beds on the boat’s upper level. It’s a nice luxury to have, and the views are a bit better from this level as well. The stop at Coral Island gives passengers a chance to disembark, walk along the beach, take a swim in the clear waters, and relax on the sand. It’s hardly peaceful though, as numerous other boats bring hordes of holiday makers to these same shores all day long. In fact, it’s really quite crowded, which is testament to the allure of this part of Thailand. 52 | M A RCH 2018

Once everyone’s back on board, the catamaran heads to the much quieter Racha Island for some snorkelling. All the gear is provided, and guests simply leap into the waters and then take their time gazing at the colourful sea creatures and corals below. Shortly after 4pm the boat heads in the direction of Promthep Cape for the sunset portion of the cruise, and this is where the party really kicks into high gear. The bar on board is stocked with an extensive list of beers, cocktails, and even fine champagnes, and as the DJ notches up the rhythm, the happy passengers (who by now have gotten to know each other a bit) take to the dancefloor on the ship’s main deck. To be honest the whole ship becomes a dancefloor eventually, and by the time you return to the pier—with a magnificent sunset to the port side—the party reaches its peak. It’s hard not to get caught up in the “spirit” of things, as the party mood is quite “intoxicating”. www.hypeboatclub.com bangkok101.com

focus on phuket | TRAVEL

Plan Your Trip

Exciting upcoming events to enhance your vacation fun THROUGHOUT MARCH

MAY 10-11

DJs Roger Sanchez and Erick Morillo

BEACHFRONT BEATS If you like to party then check out the variety of EDM events organized by Vibes Phuket, as they will be hosting an ongoing series of beach parties this year—mainly taking place at the ultra-cool Catch Beach Club (202/88, Moo 2, Cherngtalay). International DJs set to perform include: Erick Morillo on March 10th; Romain Pelletti on March 17th; and Roger Sanchez on March 31st. The club also hosts signature theme events, including Le Cirque—where DJs are accompanied by acrobats, jugglers, knife throwers, fortune tellers, mimes, and magicians (the next ones are scheduled for March 9th and March 30th). www.catchbeachclub.com

APRIL 6-7 FINE DINING LOVERS SERIES Although still under 30, Chef Phatchara ‘Pom’ Pirapak (left) is the queen of the kitchen at the Michelin-starred Saneh Jaan restaurant in Bangkok. In April she will be doing two special meals at Saffron restaurant in the Banyan Tree Phuket as part of the long-running ‘Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef Series’ presented by San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna. Chef Pom will be serving a set dinner at 7:30pm on Friday April 6th, and Saturday April 7th, with both menus priced at B3,500 (B4,800 for the wine pairing option in which carefully selected wines are served with each course). To find out more about this fabulous foodie feast event see page 34. For reservations call 076 342 400. bangkok101.com

BEST ROSÉ COMPETITION Wine lovers travelling to Phuket in May should make it a point to stop by The Nai Harn resort to sample some of the winning vintages at the 3rd annual Best Rosé, Thailand competition, hosted by renowned wine expert James James Suckling Suckling. On Thursday, May 10th, James will be conducting a private, blind tasting—sampling more than 80 international rosés brought into Thailand by various Thai wine importers—and then on Friday, May 11th, there will be a gala awards ceremony at 6pm at Reflections, the resort’s stunning infinity-edged rooftop bar. The public is invited to come and taste all 80+ wines that entered the competition, as well as the Top 10 winners (which will be added to The Nai Harn’s wine list for a full year). Wines can be purchased by the bottle or glass, and there is no charge for admission. For more on The Nai Harn, see page 57. www.thenaiharn.com

JUNE 9-10 LAGUNA PHUKET MARATHON Thousands of runners from around the world will compete in the annual Laguna Phuket Marathon, which snakes its way around the beautiful backdrop of the Laguna resorts on Bang Tao Beach. Alongside the full 42 km marathon is a 21 km halfmarathon, a 10 km run, a 5 km walk, and a 2 km kids race, with the events split over two days. Fees vary for Thai, expat, and overseas competitors, and a portion of the monies raised will go towards the Laguna Phuket Foundation’s ongoing ‘Developing Sustainable Schools Programme’ that has benefited hundreds of school children in Phuket and neighbouring provinces. www.goadventureasia.com/PIM/pimreg.htm M A RCH 2018 | 53

TRAVEL | on the block: phuket

Old Town, New Sights Culture and cuisine comes alive during a stroll through historic Phuket Town

Coffs & Burgh

Vintage shophouses

lthough it can’t lure tourists with white sand beaches, loads of culturally curious travellers have been drawn to the well-preserved historic district of Phuket Town, making it a major tourism attraction in its own right. Thankfully, the preservation and restoration projects launched in the mid-2000s have kept many of the century-old tiam choo (Hokkien for “shop house”) intact. And as this historic neighbourhood continues to grow in popularity, an array of art galleries, cafes, guesthouses, and restaurants are flourishing in the wake of the town’s unavoidable, but not entirely unwelcome gentrification. Thalang Road is the highly colourful, main historical artery of the old town, with lots of colourful shophouses— designed in the typical Sino-Portuguese architectural style also seen in Penang, Melaka, and Singapore—many of which have been restored in recent years. A lot of them sell textiles, such as sarongs and traditional fabrics, as well as souvenirs and crafts. After shopping, take a well-deserved coffee break on Thalang Road at Coffs &

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Bookhemian

Eleven Two & Co

Burgh, Kopitiam or Old Phuket Coffee, or rest and read at Bookhemian, a bookshop-gallery-café that attracts the city’s hip youth clientele. Finally, be sure to sample some unique Asian-Western fusion dishes and yummy desserts in the beautiful ambience of Eleven Two & Co, a hip café bangkok101.com

on the block: phuket | TRAVEL

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OLD PHUKET TOWN SATUN

that doubles as a souvenir shop. This street also plays host to a lively night market on Sunday evenings. Soi Romanee and Dibuk Road are also home some RANGto HILL of the city’s most significant Sino-Portuguese style edifices, including a grand building now occupied by the Chartered Bank. Meanwhile, the Thai Hua Museum, built in 1911, LUAN RD MAEplace is a great to learn about Phuket’s history and the Phuket-China connection (admission is B200). Visitors can WICH also discover links IT SO to the past at historic sites such as Raya NGKR Amansion House, a colonial-era that has been preserved M RD D as authentically as possible—it’s also home to theKRRaya ABI R Restaurant—and the Phra Phitak Chinpracha Mansion, built in 1903, which reopened a few years ago as the Blue Elephant cooking school and restaurant. Or, for more casual contemporary dining, try Dibuka (on Dibuk Road), which serves up a tasty Tom Yam pizza, or some hearty Western fare at The Gallery Café by Pinky on Yaowarat Road. And speaking of art, Phang Nga Road has several galleries and artists’ workshops, including The Wua Art Gallery, and the Mon Art Gallery. Also of note are the many intriguing temples in town, including the Shrine of the Serene Light, a beautiful old Chinese Taoist shrine, founded in 1891 by Hokkien Chinese. Or, for a touch of modern history, book a room at the newly refurbished On On Hotel (19 Phang Nga Road). Open since 1927, this longtime bare-bones, dingy backpacker dive was prominently featured in the film The Beach, starring Leonardo DiCaprio, but a revamp in 2012 transformed it into a classy, contemporary midrange guesthouse, where stylish private rooms now offer rain showers, flat screen TVs, and Wi-Fi. KHO SIM BI RD

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Phra Phitak Chinpracha Mansion

TRAVEL | made in thailand

Chalong Bay Rum Bar

Artisanal rum distillery is open for tours, tastings, and cocktail workshops Words and photos by Bruce Scott

aunched back in 2012, Chalong Bay Rum is made from pure Thai sugarcane juice (not molasses, like most rum distilleries), and crafted using traditional French distillation methods. The result is an award-winning artisanal rum that has found a well-deserved place on bar shelves across Thailand—and in several countries internationally. If you’ve tried, and no doubt enjoyed, this exceptionally smooth spirit, you can learn a little bit more about its creation with a visit to the Chalong Bay Distillery, located—not surprisingly—near Chalong Bay, in the southwestern end of the island. Admittedly the grounds here are not lavish, and the distillation and bottling facility is far from grandiose, but the thatch-roofed, outdoor Chalong Bay Rum Bar, where you can indulge in cocktails, snacks, and tastings after the tour, is a fun and funky little hang out spot that stays open till 10pm. Finding the distillery’s exact location is a bit of a challenge, but the entrance from the road is well marked, and there’s plenty of room for parking.

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Once inside you can register for one of the 30-minute guided tours which take place from 2pm to 6pm, every hour on the hour. Priced at B450, the tour includes a refreshing Chalong Bay Mojito to put you in the mood, and concludes with a tasting session. Inside the distillery there’s lots of English-language signage, which explains in detail the craftsmanship, and sustainable production aspects of this local enterprise. Indigenous, single variety, 100 percent Thai sugarcane— grown without chemical fertilizers, in partnership with local farmers who still harvest their crop by hand—produces the first-press sugarcane juice which is then distilled using an imported French copper still. Only small, handcrafted batches of rum are created, which is aged for a minimum of eight months before being bottled and labelled by hand on-site. The sugarcane itself is grown in another part of Thailand, but the rest of the operation is handled right here in Phuket. During the post-tour tasting session, visitors can sample both the “pure” rum, as well as the five

infused rums, flavoured with either lemongrass, Thai basil, cinnamon, Kaffir lime, or regular lime. The helpful and knowledgeable staff are happy to answer any questions, and the bar itself offers a selection of over three dozen rum-based beverages, ranging from mojitos and daiquiris to Thai herbal creations and twists on cocktail classics. There’s also a tapas style snack menu and, of course, some pretty spectacular rum raisin ice cream. NOTE: Every Monday and Thursday you can sign up for a two-hour cocktail workshop, which includes a guided visit of the distillery, the making and sipping of three cocktails, and tapas snacks (B1,700). One day advance booking required, minimum two persons.

Chalong Bay Distillery 14/2 Moo 2 Soi Palai 2 Open daily: 11am-10pm Tel: 093 575 1119 www.chalongbay.com

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wine & dine phuket | TRAVEL

The Nai Harn

Luxury resort also offers truly amazing dining experiences

Ocean View Suite

here’s no denying that The Nai Harn is one of Phuket’s premier luxury resorts, and with the recent addition last November of 16 new 85 sq.m Ocean View Suites—featuring their own glamorous outdoor furnished terraces—there is now a total of 130 accommodation units available here for guests to choose from. Add to that a gorgeous swimming pool with stunning views over Nai Harn Bay, as well as a spa, fitness centre, and direct beach access, and you have a pretty tempting overall vacation package. But even if you don’t pamper yourself with a stay at this historic property—it was formerly the Royal Phuket Yacht Club—indulging in some wining and dining here is the next best thing, especially if you take your wine seriously. Cosmo is the resort’s all-daydining restaurant and bar, which guests become immediately familiar with during the superb breakfast buffet. But the restaurant is also open for lunch and dinner, and an evening meal out on the terrace—under the night sky and overlooking the wide bay—is an unforgettable experience. Executive Chef Mark Jones’ diverse menu offers a wide selection, but we went with the exceptional Chilled Royal Project Organic Tomato Gazpacho (B330), served with green basil oil and marinated olives, followed bangkok101.com

by the heavenly Roasted Sea Bass (B680), with a soupe pistou of seasonal local green vegetables, and the 200 gr Western Australian Rib Eye Steak (B950). Accompanying this feast was a bottle of 2014 Crognolo, Toscana, Tenuta Sette Ponte (B2,950), a delicious deep spicy red with notes of currant and hazelnut. This outstanding wine was selected from the menu’s special ‘Great Wines of Italy’ selection—all chosen and rated by renowned wine expert James Suckling. In fact, for several years now Mr. Suckling has been responsible for assembling the resort’s truly extraordinary wine list, where all labels have a score of 90 or above. “To have someone of the calibre of James and his team join our team is a great honour,” notes Frank Grassmann, General Manager of The Nai Harn. “There are very few people in the world with his knowledge of wines and guests will be able to relish some truly insightful and creative selections.” An extensive wine selection is also a major feature at the resort’s open-air Rock Salt Restaurant, which is accessible directly from the beach. During a sunny lunch break we sampled the Cypriot Village Salad (B450), a mix of tomato, cucumber, peppers, red onion, Feta cheese, and

capers, an order of the exceedingly delicious Piri-Piri Chicken (B630), served with fries, tzatziki sauce, lime and a watercress salad, and a cookedto-order catch-of-the-day Red Snapper. On Frank’s recommendation we enjoyed a nicely chilled bottle of 2014 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis (B2,650), whose gorgeous acidity and minerality, with notes of dried pear and apple, was the perfect accompaniment. For dessert we tried the Watermelon with Moscato Cantaloupe Soup (B475), served with a glass of Moscato d’Asti DOCG Zagara. A truly divine daytime degustation! by Bruce Scott

The Nai Harn Phuket 23/3 Moo 1, Vises Rd. Tel: 07 638 0200 www.thenaiharn.com

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TRAVEL | where to stay

Seafront Weddings

Romance rules at the Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach

ince launching its luxurious seafront sanctuary as the ultimate destination for dream weddings, the Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach, has had the pleasure of welcoming wedding couples from all over the world to this secluded patch of pristine coastline in the northwest of Phuket. Couples can exchange their vows on the soft, silky sands, as the gentle waves of the Andaman Sea lap against the shore, but indoor function venues are available as well.

The resort provides the perfect place to pledge your life-long vows to your partner. As the only international hotel on this sublime stretch of sand, the Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach offers not only stunning natural scenery, but also the service and facilities to cater for all types of dream weddings. In fact, the resort 58 | M A RCH 2018

was recently named Best International Wedding Venue at the International Hotel Awards 2017-2018, as well as Thailand’s Best Wedding Venue and Asia’s Best Wedding Venue during the 2017 Asia Property Awards. “With awards guaranteed, the golden sands, azure seas and verdant palms, Nai Yang Beach is an idyllic destination for all types of weddings,” said Mr. David Ippersiel, General Manager of the Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach, adding that his goal is to make the resort the wedding destination of choice for couples from across the world. “But spectacular scenery alone is not enough to ensure an unforgettable wedding”, he explains. “At our resort we provide the support and service to ensure that every wedding runs seamlessly. From diverse dining facilities, including authentic Thai dishes, fresh seafood, and excellent international cuisine, to a choice of different venues, our expert team of professional event planners will make sure that all your wedding dreams come true. We really are a one-stop service for your big day.” Since opening in 2016, the resort has developed a strong standing in the wedding sector, both internationally bangkok101.com

where to stay | TRAVEL and locally. To date, the resort has successfully hosted 10 weddings, building a reputation for exceeding the expectations of discerning couples. All events are handled with a care and attention to detail by the resort’s certified event planners, professional chefs, floral specialists, and other wedding experts. With a choice of creative set-ups—from lavish occasions to simple ceremonies, and from luxurious ballroom receptions to casual beach parties—the Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach provides a dream destination package for every couple.

But whether you arrive here for a romantic getaway or a family vacation, the resort’s elegant accommodations and welcoming amenities will help you relax and unwind. There are 11 different room choices, starting with the 46 sq.m Deluxe Garden View. For a bit more space, guests can opt for the 112 sq.m One Bedroom Suite, or go all the way and splurge on the expansive Beachfront One-Bedroom Plunge Pool Villa, or the even larger 370 sq.m ocean-facing Beachfront Two-Bedroom Pool Villa. All accommodations at the resort offer both traditional Thai design and modern technology, with an array of in-room amenities. There are also several F&B outlets on-site, including classic Thai cuisine on offer at the The Andaman Kitchen. Add to that a choice of two swimming pools, a fitness centre, pleasant treatments at the beautiful Quan Spa, and you have the makings of a truly glorious getaway.

Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach 92, 92/1 Moo 3, Tambol Sakoo Tel: 07 662 5555 www.phuketmarriottnaiyang.com bangkok101.com

LUXURIOUS ROMANCE ON A SECLUDED BEACH

The luxurious Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach is the ultimate romantic destination in Thailand. Nestled on a secluded beach, with the azure waters of the Andaman Sea lapping at the shore, this resort is a pure tropical paradise. Unwind in barefoot luxury in one of the resort’s stunning beachfront pool villas, or simply gaze out over the gentle waves and enjoy the glorious sunset. With bright, open spaces, award-winning interior design, and its status as ‘Best International Wedding Venue’, the Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach is the ideal destination for every romantic occasion—from weddings, to honeymoons, to anniversary celebrations! But it’s also a haven for delicious seafood, and the Big Fish Restaurant & Bar, nestled on the golden sands of Nai Yang Beach, overlooking the Andaman Sea, is the perfect place to unwind and enjoy the area’s stunning scenery. This signature restaurant serves an international lunch and dinner menu that showcases the finest seafood and steaks, often sourced from local suppliers (including Phuket fishermen), and always cooked to perfection by expert chefs. Choose to dine indoors, or opt for the outdoor seating, where the whisper of the gentle ocean waves will accompany your meal. Alternatively, guests can choose to relax at the rooftop lounge, which is the perfect place to soak up the spectacular sea views whilst enjoying a glass of wine or creative cocktail. Big Fish Restaurant & Bar also offers regular themed buffets, plus the option of private candlelit dinners, to ensure the most romantic setting for your special occasion. And groups can be catered for with a series of flexible seating set-ups.

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TRAVEL | where to stay

Diamond Cliff Resort

Luxurious hillside hideaway celebrates its 30th anniversary this year

ay back in 1988, when the Diamond Cliff Resort & Spa first opened its doors to welcome guests, Phuket was a very different place. But over the past three decades this venerable hillside resort—situated just north of Patong City—has been consistently delivering a standard of luxury as high as their cliffside villas overlooking the Andaman Sea. Although that’s not to say that nothing has changed. In fact, this regal resort continues to expand and improve with each passing year. The property itself is quite large, and has grown to now include five restaurants, three bars, two outdoor swimming pools, and 16 treatment rooms and an onsen bath in the on-site Diamond Spa. Meanwhile, among the resort’s 310 guestrooms and suites the exclusive one- and two-bedroom private pool villas, built at the very top of the hillside, offer some of the most heavenly views on the island. These stunning and intricately designed highceilinged abodes are beautiful examples of classic Thai architecture with modern touches and amenities, offering ample

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living spaces inside and out, and private plunge pools that face the sea. Of course, the resort’s other units are just as swanky, with many suites offering an in-room Jacuzzi. The 70 sq.m Diamond Jacuzzi Suite is a perfect couple-friendly choice, complete with plush furnishings, dark hardwood floors, luxurious linens, private balcony, and an elegant marble bathroom with a seaview whirlpool bathtub. The room also features two armchairs, a day bed, wall-mounted flatscreen TV, wardrobe with room safe, separate shower and toilet facilities, and a large mini-bar area that includes a marble countertop and two bar stools (all of which divides the living area nicely). The resort’s multiple F&B outlets offer something for all tastes, from international buffet breakfasts to authentic Thai and Italian fare, as well as lavish buffets on Monday (Thai), Wednesday (steak), and Friday (seafood). The Diamond Cliff is also home to Kiko, one of the first Japanese fine dining restaurants to open in Phuket. Here the combination of an experienced chef, together

with fresh ingredients imported from Japan, delivers an authentic dining experience. However, this restaurant will be undergoing renovations starting in May of 2018, so visit soon. Another dining experience to entice visitors is the newly opened Sea Salt Lounge & Grill, which is located directly across the main road from the resort itself, and offers panoramic vistas overlooking the beach. The chic and modern décor, combined with a selection of Thai and international dishes—not to mention superb cocktails—makes it one of the best new seaside dining options in Phuket. Spacious, private, and wonderfully romantic, this idyllic island retreat is a sanctuary for relaxation. And with a free scheduled shuttle bus service, the excitement of Patong’s nightlife is just a few minutes’ drive away. by Bruce Scott

Diamond Cliff Resort & Spa 284 Prabaramee Rd, Patong Tel: 07 638 0050 www.diamondcliff.com www.seasaltpatong.com

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where to stay | TRAVEL

SIS Kata Resort

“Sisters are doin’ it for themselves” at this fun and funky seaside getaway

s one of the newest additions to Phuket’s growing hotel scene, the SIS Kata Resort exudes a youthful attitude that effortlessly blends casual chic with fashionable fun. The resort itself is owned and operated by three fun-loving sisters (their family’s Aksara Collection also includes Patra Mansion in Phuket Town, and the Kata Sea Breeze). However, here the “sis” in the name actually has a second meaning— as it is an acronym for ‘Stay In Style’. The resort is built on a hill at the southern end of Kata Beach, and while it’s true that there is no direct beach access, the breathtaking view from the main swimming pool overlooks this expansive undulating white sand shoreline as it recedes into the horizon. The swimming pool is generously ringed with reclining sun loungers and day bed cabanas, and the playful sculpture which is the pool’s centrepiece—a sort of futuristic Botero female nude—sets the tone… lie back, relax, and let it all hang out everybody! The building’s mod architecture is fun and funky, with the zigzagging bangkok101.com

lines of the balcony partitions echoed in everything from the swimming pool tiles and the outdoor terrace floor, to the floor tiles and wall art in the rooms. The overall colour scheme relies on whites and cool greys, interspersed with marine-inspired bright blue and turquoise accents, and pockets of greenery. There are a total of 124 sleek and stylish accommodation units to choose from, the fanciest of which are the two SIS Suites, which measure almost 70 sq.m and include an over-sized Jacuzzi set in an open-plan, split-level living and bedroom space, complete with a spacious balcony plus daybed and stunning ocean views. Of course, equally appealing are the more modest SIS Over The Sea rooms, which measure almost 40 sq.m and come with a sexy Jacuzzi built-for-two on the balcony. The room itself is dominated by the large king-sized bed, but there’s also space for a 43” Slim LED TV, curved work desk behind the bed, mini-bar and refrigerator, coffee and tea making facilities, spacious bathroom with rain shower, and a wardrobe with in-room

safe. The décor, meanwhile, is cool and contemporary, with blonde wood and light and medium earth tones creating the perfect chillax mood. There are several other on-site amenities, including a second swimming pool, meeting rooms, a fitness centre, and a branch of the popular Let’s Relax Spa chain. However, a lot of time will no doubt be spent at the resort’s half dozen drink and dine spots, the largest being the 116 seat all-day dining venue Dawn Til Dusk. A bountiful breakfast buffet is served here, but when the sun begins to set the adjacent 40 seat outdoor Twilight Sky becomes the property’s stunning outdoor sunset terrace. Dine on expertly prepared Thai-inspired specialties, paired with expertly crafted cocktails, as the sky and sea become one under the velvety blanket of encroaching darkness. by Bruce Scott

The SIS Kata Resort 255 Kok Tanode Rd, Karon Tel: 07 660 9555 www.thesiskata.com

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TRAVEL | upcountry now

HOK PENG FESTIVAL March 10-16

The Hok Peng Wai Sa Ma-ha-that Chae Haeng Festival is a religious observance which takes place at Wat Phra That Chae Haeng, in the Phu Phiang District in Nan province. With its stunning undulating Naga leading to the main entrance, this temple’s principal claim to fame is a 55 metre-high golden stupa housing an ancient and holy relic. The festival itself is held every year on the 6th lunar month (“hok” means 6 in Thai, and “peng” means full moon in the Northern Thai dialect), and the rocket launch ceremony is performed as offerings are made to Buddha.

THAIBREAK FESTIVAL 2018 March 22-26

Although there’s hundreds of reasons to visit the tiny but postcard perfect island of Koh Mak, in Trat province, this month’s Thaibreak Festival 2018 should provide extra enticement. Although not overly well-known, 2018 will mark the 20th anniversary of this exclusive gathering, as approximately 500 folk from across the globe—who share a vision of love, respect, and fun—will gather for three days and four nights filled with exceptional electronic music, beach and boat parties, and lots of swimming and sunning. Tickets are B3,500 (accommodations not included). www.thaibreak-festival.com

INTERNATIONAL KITE FESTIVAL March 23-25

In spring Thailand’s Prachuap Khiri Khan province has the perfect wind for flying kites, which is why the annual Hua Hin International Kite Festival is such a success. This year’s event takes place at the Army Non Commissioned Officer School, in Hua Hin, and festival highlights include the ‘Fancy Kite Show’, where 20 kite flying teams from countries including Switzerland, Germany, and France, complete to show off their high-speed flying skills. Other highlights include a weekend market, a kite exhibition, and the ‘Chula and Pak Pao Show’, where traditional Thai kites fly accompanied by a Thai classical music ensemble.

THAO SRANARI MEMORIAL FAIR March 23-April 3

Statue of Ya Mo 62 | M A RCH 2018

One of the biggest festivals in Nakhon Ratchasima province is the Thao Sranari Memorial Fair, which is held every year to both celebrate and commemorate the victory of Thao Suranaree (or Ya Mo), a clever woman whose innovative ruses helped fight off the armies of the Lao King Anouvong when he invaded Siam in 1826. This year at the fair there will be the ceremonial lighting of an opening flame, plus firework displays, a Ya Mo sports competition, beauty contests, a singing competition, silk making and drawing competitions, cat shows, and cultural performances, exhibitions, and concerts from well-known artists. bangkok101.com

Photo by Ashkan Sharifi

upcountry now | TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FESTIVAL IN CHIANG MAI March 2-4

2018 marks the 10th anniversary of the long-running Thailand International Balloon Festival, being held this year at the Cowboy Army Riding Club (Don Kaew, Mae Rim). Visitors young and old can expect to see an array of colourful hot air balloons—operated by skilled pilots from around the world—taking off each morning at dawn, and floating up over the vibrant green grasslands and rice fields of Chiang Mai, all set against a beautiful mountainous backdrop. Meanwhile, during the evenings there will be a stunning balloon night glow performance—choreographed and synchronized with specially composed music, as performed by the Lanna Orchestra and the Tiger Drum & Opera. In addition, there will be art and jewellery exhibitions, many free workshops, and fine dining delicacies and drinks from leading hotels and restaurants. Finally, don’t miss the International Heritage section with booths from India, France, Switzerland, Sweden, Spain, Germany, and many other countries featuring performances, special activities, traditional foods, and more. Tickets are B300 each for a single day (children aged 7-12 years B100, and free for children under 7 years of age). Tickets are available online via www.eventbrite.com. For more detailed information, visit the official festival website at: www.thailandballoonfestival.com

bangkok101.com

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ART

| ART & CULTURE

An Instinct for Surprise Thai-German fashion photographer relies on an experimental approach in this, his first ever solo exhibition

hai-German artist JAKRIN VON BUEREN immerses himself in his photography, doing to his negatives what he does with his own soul. In his upcoming debut exhibit—the full title of which is AN INSTINCT FOR SURPRISE (DON’T KNOW THE REASON, I JUST LIKE IT)—this dynamic Bangkok born and bred 20-year old absorbs the pageantry of life like a porous leaf in sunshine, transmitting to viewers sublimely instinctive images that transcend their initial impulse. In a field worn out by imitation and cross-imitation, it is rare to discover a hatchling self-identified fashion photographer with a totally fresh eye, becoming himself the source of creativity and inspiration. Jakrin studied fashion photography at the London College of Fashion (LCF), University of the Arts, London, but his outlook on fashion is somewhat at odds with the usual public views on this subject. As his press release states: “One catches fashion like a disease, through sensory contact. Like the other arts, but on the literally superficial level—the dimension of appearances— fashion reflects the emanations of the world at a given moment. Originators of designs, and looks that others copy, send out their feelers to be seduced by the sensory conversation. As with Shakespearean synesthesia, they can hear colours and see sounds, taste good and evil, and sniff out fake memes from the real.” The artist also rejects digital photography, stating: “I like not being able to see the images immediately. I like the surprise when I see my work later. For the rotten effects, the vinegar and rusting wire wool, the bleaching, the words of peace from the Bible—‘He makes wars cease to the ends of the earth. He breaks the bow and shatters the spear; he burns the shields with fire’ (Psalm 46/9). I don’t know the reason, I just like it.”

AN INSTINCT FOR SURPRISE runs from MARCH 10 to APRIL 28 at the KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY (87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd). Viewing hours are Tuesday to Saturday, from 11am till 6pm. For more information, call 02 234 6700. www.kathmanduphotobkk.com

facebook.com/bangkokartmap bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

MARCH 3-24 Molten Love Melt Into Happiness Number1 Gallery

19 Silom Rd, Soi 21 Viewing hours: Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 630 2523 | www.number1gallery.com

This upcoming show is a re-collaboration with Number1 Gallery, after Chaiporn Panichrutiwong’s exhibition “Happiness” in 2016. These new paintings are acrylic on canvas, and show love and happiness in both living and non-living things. Our happiness emanates from our own individual preferences, depending on our individual experiences growing up. Thus, some are unable to disregard their intense affection toward certain things like toys, cartoon characters, pets, and/or movies. Such emotions can be deeply intense and can irrevocably be “molten” into individual aesthetic reveries.

MARCH 7-APRIL 25 Three Artists

Tang Contemporary Art 3F, Golden Place Plaza, 153 Rajdamri Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 652 2732 | www.tangcontemporary.com

The concept here revolves around putting into dialogue three very different artists, namely Rodel Tapaya (The Philippines), Heri Dono (Indonesia), and Pannaphan Yodmanee (Thailand). All of them are very representative of the Southeast Asian contemporary art scene, and all are still based in SEA countries, even if it is immediately evident that their artistic language is absolutely international and they do not use a local language for expressing their art. Which raises the question: does it still even make sense to talk about artists coming from Thailand, Indonesia, or The Philippines? Perhaps great art speaks an international language instead.

UNTIL APRIL 7 Zero Decibel Yelo House

20/2 Soi Kasemsan 1, Rama I Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 11am-8pm Tel: 089 777 2322 | www.yelohouse.com

This, the first solo exhibition by the artist known only as Suntur, attempts to express thoughts and stories through ‘silence’. The concept was developed when the artist arrived in New York City and felt depressed about himself. He tried to solve the problem by finding something to do, like painting, and the activity helped unlock feelings that were hiding inside himself. After many paintings Suntur realized that if his paintings were a person, this person must be “quiet, polite, and lonely”. By personalizing his own paintings he was led to the concept for his current show. 66 | M A RCH 2018

bangkok101.com

exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

UNTIL APRIL 13 Meet the Celebrities

Duke Contemporary Art Space 1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Viewing hours: Daily, 11am-midnight Tel: 094 647 8888 | www.facebook.com/duke.gaysorn

This solo art exhibition by Sarawut Yasamut is inspired by clothing from the Baroque and Rococo periods, which reflect on the extravagance and lavishness of wealthy people in these two historic periods. This, in turn, implies that the outer appearance does not indicate the intrinsic value—from the past till the present, it remains the same. People are mainly focused on only their appearance, personality, and social status, not realizing the value inside. The artist wants to remind people in this present age to not just become fascinated by power or prestige. Don’t judge the book by its cover.

MARCH 17-APRIL 22 I-solated Beings

Subhashok the Arts Centre Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10am-5:30pm, Sun, 12pm-6pm Tel: 02 662 0299 | www.facebook.com/sacbangkok

In this collaborative effort, Thai artist Torlarp Larpjaroensook and Danish artist Andreas Schulenburg (with the support of the Danish Arts Foundation) lead a visual discourse on the relationship between the individual and society. Danish and Thai cultures, though seemingly quite different in regards to climate and social norms, share a very similar social attribute in their valuing of comfort and joy in everyday life. The Danish concept of “hygge” and the Thai concept of “sanuk” are two examples of words that represent a conscious effort within each respective culture to connect the individual experience happily into the greater society.

MARCH 20-APRIL 28 @Dawn

Ardel’s Third Place Gallery Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Viewing hours: Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Tel: 02 714 7929 | www.thirdplacebangkok.com/gallery

In this group exhibition four young Thai artists demonstrate their specialties in painting, drawing, and mixed-media art. Supaporn Chulaka’s paintings are inspired by the different forms of objects found in everyday life. Ponpassapon Bunyarritthanone uses lines and colours to create semi-surrealistic objects in her works. Meanwhile, Tan Kositpipat borrows figures of animals to symbolize human beings' attempts to control everything on earth. Finally, Terdtanwa Kanama has assembled a mixed-media series showing Thai patterns and scratches on iron plates to represent a contradiction in technological development. bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

Museum Siam

The perplexing concept of “Thainess” newly explored Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

he concept of “Thainess” is a recurrent topic in Thai society with the Kingdom’s residents—from politicians to street vendors—often making reference to their Thai specificity in a bid to justify some of their odd and unique behaviours. Recently, the Museum Siam reopened its doors with a brand new exhibition looking at what exactly Thainess is, examining the best ways for someone to attempt to understand the fundamentals behind this term. The original Museum of Siam was once—about a hundred years ago—the Ministry of Commerce, and, in contrast to the current exhibition on show, it bears no sign of any Thainess whatsoever. Designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno in 1921, the former Ministry has been totally built following neo-classical Italian architecture. It is a majestic structure with its wooden stairs, halls, arches, stucco ceilings, and its corridors rhythmically lined by classical columns. In some ways it offers the antithesis to the Thainess theme.

68 | M A RCH 2018

After a stint as the National Discovery Museum Institute, the structure was rebranded as Museum Siam in 2011. The institution has often been looking at what makes Siam and Thailand different from other countries in Southeast Asia, most often exploring the historical and cultural elements which shaped the Thai identity. Closed for renovation during most of 2017, the museum finally reopened its doors in December with a rejuvenated exhibition on the concept of Thainess—all based around one central question… “What is Thai?” The exhibition looks like a jigsaw puzzle pulled apart, where visitors will go through various themes to get their own idea about the titular Thainess. An interactive presentation—alternatively in English and Thai—explains Siam/Thailand’s positioning in history, and looks at the influence of neighbouring countries over the shaping of the Siam/Thai identity. A second room then explores the many cultural icons which have shaped Thailand; from tuk tuks to papaya bangkok101.com

museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

salad, and from famed Thai brands to advertising from the Tourism Authority of Thailand. Songs, TV commercials, daily life objects, and of course the central figure of Thailand—the Royal Family—are combined to give one a crash course in Thainess. Each exhibition room looks—always in a fun, interactive way—at various aspects of Thai life. The symbols of the monarchy, religion and beliefs, the education system, traditional costumes, and of course food, are showcased within unusual presentations but always in a very entertaining colourful way. Highlights include: the reconstitution of the Throne Hall (with all the symbols of power); a display of costumes reflecting Thailand’s societal hierarchy; and a giant kitschy deity which looks at the blend between religious and popular beliefs. Meanwhile, food lovers will enjoy the bangkok101.com

section that examines Thailand’s most iconic culinary dishes, which in turn can be created with an interactive application. Once you’ve seen the full show you might know more about the shaping of the Thai identity, but you’ll no doubt still wonder why the term “Thainess” continues to be used so readily to justify anything awkward or inexplicable happening in the Kingdom. NOTE: Admission is B100 for Thais and B200 for non-Thais, but the museum is free of charge for all visitors from 4pm until closing time.

Museum Siam

4 Sanam Chai Rd. | Tel: 02 225 2777 Open: Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm | www.museumsiam.org M A RCH 2018 | 69

ART & CULTURE | arts interview

Doug Stanhope

Caustic cult comedian comes to Bangkok for the first time ever to mix up a 50-proof highball of black and bawdy comedy Interview by Jim Algie

In your most recent special you mention you’re the only comic doing the weird shit that you do. What do you think your most original contributions to standup are? Knowing when I’ve had enough. Being aware that it’s okay to not have to be bigger, better, more well known. Above all, the hooker/drug/drunk/ violent diarrhea stories in my last book, the underlying theme was being comfortable with not being addicted to fame.

This tour includes your first gigs in Southeast Asia, but have you travelled in this region before? Not to speak of. I did some military bases in Korea and Japan in 1994 but was too broke to go do anything off base. Now I have spending money with none of the interest. Will you be doing any Asia-specific material? I’ve heard you make references to Bangkok, and the Killing Fields of Cambodia, and participating in a live sex show in Japan. I have nothing planned, but I’m sure the longer I’m there the more I’ll have to talk about. I imagine nights of being goaded by locals into drinking some type of septic alcohol concoctions, with a chicken head floating in the bottom, will turn up stories. I’ll pass on the sex shows though. I’m too old to make myself believe they are actually enjoying themselves. What do you think are the funniest, or weirdest bits in your new memoir This Is Not Fame? The Costa Rica story is fun for me because it includes crooked police, high-paranoia, and tops off with violent public diarrhea which is a fail-safe for hilarious. The weirdest part has to be simply the fact that Dr. Drew Pinsky wrote the forward after the egregious public beating I gave him on an earlier special. He is quite the gentleman and good sport. You routinely joke about topping the comedian’s “death pool”. Have you toned down your drinking and partying in recent years? No and yes. I drink more but it’s less of a party. More like maintenance drinking without the funny hats. 70 | M A RCH 2018

You’re renowned for extreme and edgy material, but have you ever rejected bits that just seemed too controversial? I may avoid a bit that has a better than even odds of resulting in immediate physical violence, depending on my proximity to a fire exit, but I am professional enough to skip a bit that has repeatedly not gotten laughs. I’m on top of my game like that.

I’ve had a few comedian friends who would try out their new material on me. Is that something you do with your buddies? Absolutely not. But also, when you do say something stage-worthy to your friends in conversation, don’t hesitate to grab a cocktail napkin and write it down. It ruins the tempo of the dialogue—much like stopping a onenight stand to put on a rubber—but in both instances it’s worth it.

After your acclaimed role as a downand-out comedian on the Louis CK show, will we be seeing you in any more TV shows? I have a couple of lines in an upcoming episode of Roseanne. That should assure that I never get another opportunity. My best work was playing me on Louie and it led to zero offers. So probably not. Or… maybe on the news.

When I’m bummed out I get on YouTube and watch you, or Bill Hicks, or Bill Burr, and use those shows as antidepressants. Has comedy had that kind of positive influence on your life too? Yeah. When I’m bummed out nothing helps more than listening to a comedian who is better rated than me.

You’ve now got a big cult following and celebrity supporters like Johnny Depp and Marilyn Manson. Do you want to be any more popular or infamous than you are now? Once you have Manson and Depp in your cult, you quit while you’re ahead. Now, to join the cult, it’s like “Fight Club” where you have to stand on my porch for days being berated.

What if you had to write your own epitaph for your tombstone? It would be “What’s Time To A Pig?” Because when you’re dead, you don’t feel a need to explain the joke. Doug Stanhope is performing live at the Westin Grand Sukhumvit on Saturday, March 17 at 8pm. www.ticketbox.co.th bangkok101.com

cinema scope | ART & CULTURE

Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott

Walk With Me

My Life as a Zucchini

Like Water For Chocolate

Include Women Out

Cinema Oasis

our outstanding films of diverse genres, by four dynamic directors, are being show this month—all for free—as part of the River City Bangkok Film Club’s 2018 line-up. All screenings take place at River City Bangkok (Charoen Krung 24) in Room 201, on the 2nd Floor, beginning at 4pm sharp each Saturday. Reservations can be made by emailing rcbfilmclub@gmail.com, or wathanya@rivercity.co.th. On March 10th the season’s screenings will kick off with Vinci, a 2018 film from Poland directed by Juliusz Machulski. The film is a thriller/comedy centering around the planned heist of a painting by Leonardo da Vinci. The Ambassador of the Republic of Poland, HE Waldemar Dubaniowski, will introduce the film, and The Embassy of Poland will serve drinks and snacks after the screening. The series continues on March 17th with My Life as a Zucchini, a 2017 animated film from Switzerland—in French with English subtitles—directed by Claude Barras. It’s a moving and memorable tale about abandoned children and their longing for love, which has moved critics and audiences around the world. The Ambassador of the Embassy of Switzerland, HE Ivo Sieber, will introduce the film, and The Embassy of Switzerland will serve drinks and snacks afterwards. On March 24th the Ambassador of the Embassy of Greece, HE Pericles Boutos, will introduce the 2014 film Include Women Out, directed by Vangelis Seitanidis. In this road-movie, two friends venture out in search of a ‘school-beauty’ whom they both had chased, and who has now apparently joined a convent. After the screening the Embassy of Greece will provide drinks and snacks. bangkok101.com

Finally, the 1993 Oscar-nominated Mexican film Like Water For Chocolate, directed by Alfonso Arau, rounds out the month’s screenings on March 31st. Based on the magic-realism novel by Laura Esquivel it depicts the sensual and surreal effects of food on love, passion, and even revolution. The Ambassador of the Embassy of Mexico, HE Jaime Nualart, will introduce the film, with drinks and snacks served post-screening along with a special “chocolate surprise” courtesy of the Mexican Embassy. www.rivercitybangkok.com In a different vein, the Monday night documentary series continues at the Foreign Correspondent’s Club of Thailand (518/5 Ploenchit Rd), with screenings of Dries (March 5th), Gleason (March 12th), and Walk With Me (March 19th). All films begin at 7pm, and admission is B150 for non-members (free for members). There’s also an optional buffet for B250. www.fccthai.com In other local film news, March 24th is the scheduled date for the opening of Cinema Oasis, a dedicated space for independent cinema, art, and thought. The husbandand-wife duo behind the project are Ing Kanjanavanit, director of the banned Thai movie Shakespeare Must Die, and Manit Sriwanichpoom, the movie’s producer and the owner of the Kathmandu Photo Gallery. The pair have also set up the ‘Foundation Cinema Oasis’, which will use the revenue from ticket sales to fund the space’s educational programs. The 48-seat movie theatre will take up the 1st and 2nd floors of an impressive, newly constructed sixstory modernist building on Sukhumvit Soi 43, while the 3rd floor will serve as a gallery and an events rental space. www.facebook.com/cinemaoasis.bk M A RCH 2018 | 71

Art & Culture

Photo Feature

Golden Land of Hidden Gems New book on Myanmar highlights everything from hilltribes to hotels The recently released 132-page hardcover coffee table book entitled The Best of Myanmar: Golden Land of Hidden Gems, is a great introduction to Thailand’s northern neighbour. Published by the Chiang Rai-based Knowledge Media Group (KMG), the book is lavishly illustrated with stunning photographs from an array of talented photographers. Meanwhile, the main man behind the book is Jaffee Yee Yeow-Fei, a well-known media, art, and travel marketing consultant, and veteran, award-winning publisher. Here he acts as both Publisher and Editor-inChief, and his stable of contributing writers includes Jim Algie, a regular columnist in Bangkok 101 magazine.

natural beauty of the land, to the country’s charming inhabitants, rich cultural heritage, and modern luxuries such as fine hotels, gourmet dining spots, and more.

Myanmar remains, even to this day, a relatively mysterious and undiscovered destination. The country was closed to the outside world for more than half a century, and only recently opened its doors to outsiders en masse. Travellers to this Southeast Asian nation are just beginning to discover her many hidden gems, and the aim of this book is to showcase as much as possible of this land—from the breathtaking

The Best of Myanmar: Golden Land of Hidden Gems is available online at Lazada, at all major Thai airports, at AsiaBooks and Kinokuniya outlets nationwide, and in Chiang Mai at Booksmith—airport and Nimman branch—plus Suriwong Book Center (MSRP in Thailand: B1,295). The book is also available at all major bookstores in Yangon, Mandalay, and Bagan, plus airports, and hotel gift shops.

The book itself is divided into nine main chapters: Past and Present; People and Culture; Festivals and Events; Attractions and Highlights; Flora and Fauna; Art and Artists; Hotels and Resorts; Restaurants and Cafés; and Cruise and Golf. It’s both comprehensive and well laid out—thanks to Art Director Richie Chan Li Qi—and presents Myanmar in all it’s well deserved glory. It’s an admirable addition to any dedicated traveller’s book collection.

Bagan, home to more than 2,200 temples, stupas, and monasteries. Photo by Ric Gaz

Mrauk U, founded in 1430, is a remote archeological site. Photo by Ric Gaz

Aung Kyaw Htet: A Friendly Novice (oil on canvas)

The Padaung (or long necks). Photo by Barry Broman

Member of the Naga tribe. Photo by Barry Broman

Tattooed woman from the Chin tribe. Photo by Ric Gaz

Shwedagon Pagoda, the radiant golden stupa in the centre of Yangon. Photo by Ric Gaz

The Phaung Daw U Pagoda Festival boat procession at Inle Lake. Photo by Arun Bhat

Ananda Pagoda Festival. Photo courtesy of the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism, Myanmar

The Gurneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pitta, a native bird species of Myanmar. Photo by L. Bruce Kekule

The snowy peaks of Hkakabo Razi (5,881 metres). Photo by Wildlife Conservation Society of Myanmar

Ayeyarwaddy riverboat. Photo by Pandaw Cruises

Intha Fisherman. Photo courtesy of Pandaw Cruises

The verdant rice fields of Kengtung. Photo by Jaffee Yee

Aerial view of Ngapali Bay Villas & Spa. Photo by Zaw Min Yu

Colonial era dĂŠcor in a suite at the Strand Hotel, Yangon. Photo courtesy of the Strand Hotel

Golden Evening 2 (2015), a painting by renowned Burmese artist Min Wae Aung

Head Chef Giampierro Quartararo from Link Cuisine & Bar

| FOOD & DRINK

AROY the link that’s no longer missing

The recently opened LINK CUISINE & BAR is the latest addition to the ever-growing dining scene that is turning Bangkok’s YEN AKART road into a gourmet haven. Following in the success of the brand’s restaurant in Koh Samui, this new urban venue boasts an open kitchen, indoor bar area, and a spacious backyard deck with koi pond and tropical garden. The menu has been designed to showcase the rich, full flavours of both Italian and Asian cooking, and Head Chef GIAMPIERRO QUARTARARO even promises local twists on his traditional Sicilian dishes. The restaurant is open for Sunday brunch from noon till 4pm, and for dinner and drinks daily from 6pm to 11.30pm. Furthermore, by the time you read this local favourites EATS PAYAO will have also made the exodus to this foodie thoroughfare, moving from their small bistro on Nang Linchi Road to bigger and better digs on Yen Akart Road. Drop in for a delicious bowl of what many call “the best Khao Soi in town”. www.linkcuisine.com/bangkok • www.facebook.com/eatspayao

chefs gather for a good cause Collaborating with MANDARIN ORIENTAL, BANGKOK hotel, the 2018 BANGKOK CHEFS CHARITY GALA DINNER will be staged on Saturday, March 3rd in the hotel’s Royal Ballroom. This is the 9th edition of this prestigious fund-raising event and it will once again be graciously presided over by HRH CROWN PRINCESS MAHA CHAKRI SIRINDHORN. For this event Thailand’s foremost Executive Chefs—from the Kingdom’s leading hotels—will come together to create a 10-course gourmet feast using the finest ingredients from the Chaipattana Foundation, as well as from the best international sources. Tickets are priced at B12,500 per person, and part of the proceeds will be donated to charity. For reservations email: bcc@gourmet-one.com.

new east-west menu at niche With a Michelin star to its credit, Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin is the SIAM KEMPINSKI hotel’s most talked about restaurant as of late, but don’t overlook NICHE, the lovely ground floor restaurant with a beautiful outdoor terrace that looks out over lush green gardens. And to entice you to drop by, Executive Sous Chef CARLO VALENZIANO has introduced a new menu that blends the best of Europe and Asia, where appetizers and main course menu items can be ordered as “Asian” or “Non-Asian” in style. Either way the preparations are as daring as they are delicious—the mustard-rubbed Kurobuta pork loin, with char-grilled broccoli and sage milk is amazing—and there’s also an accompanying menu of creative cocktails to pair with the meal (hint: try the Pa Lo Prin bourbon sour with Chinese 5-spice syrup). www.kempinski.com/bangkok

michelin star wine bar? Rumour has it that this month Bangkok’s resident superstar chef GAGGAN ANAND will debut his new concept venue WET, described as “natural-wine bar, with good food, and good music”. Set to occupy a space directly adjacent to GAGGAN, his eponymous two Michelin-starred restaurant, and with capacity for about 40 persons, this new venue will be overseen by Gaggan’s longtime head sommelier VLADIMIR KOJIC—a principal partner in the project. Wine selections will focus on small-production French and Austrian bottles that are organic, biodynamic, or made using a less interventionist approach.

bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

New Dry-Aged Beef Dishes at Madison Steakhouse

Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel | 155 Rajdamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 | siam-bangkok.anantara.com Madison Steakhouse is already renowned for tempting diners with some of the best steaks in town, but now Chef Nico Merten introduces dry-aged beef to the meat menu line-up. The beef undergoes an exacting aging process which results in a one-of-a-kind delicious taste, and the cuts are displayed within a micro-climate casing at the front of the restaurant. Take a seat in the elegant dining room and enjoy the selection of innovative new dishes on the menu. Prices start at B1,650. Available at lunch—12pm to 2:30pm, Monday to Saturday—and daily for dinner, from 6pm to 10:30 pm.

A Celebration of Spring in Hokkaido

The Okura Prestige Bangkok hotel | 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com Using fresh ingredients from Japan’s Hokkaido region, prepared with French culinary techniques, Executive Chef Antony Scholtmeyer and his team at the Michelin-starred Elements restaurant, are serving up seasonal treats. Diners can indulge in the flavours and textures of: tartare of botan ebi and sakura shrimps served with smoked potato ice cream and fresh wasabi; a juicy Hokkaido beef steak (marble score 3) accompanied by charred turnip, smoked eggplant, and panisses; and much more. This promotion is available until April 28th, every Tuesday to Saturday from 6pm till 10:30pm. Prices start from B690.

Sizzling Prawns and Salmon at Atelier Restaurant

Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit hotel | 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21(Asoke Rd) Tel: 02 204 4161 | www.pullmanbangkokgrandesukhumvit.com Welcome summer with a sumptuous dinner buffet at Atelier restaurant. Set sail and explore the mouthwatering buffet spread with the freshest seafood, as you sink your teeth into succulent grilled prawns and a variety of marinated salmon. In addition, the buffet spread presents local and international flavours ranging from authentic Asian, to European delights and roasts. Dessert options include a chocolate fountain, artisan ice creams, and freshly made crepes. Available until April 30th, every Sunday to Thursday from 6pm to 10:30pm, this dinner special is priced at B1,399 (includes food and soft drinks).

Fun and Creative “Love Pokes” at Flavors All-Day Dining Venue

Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong hotel | 518/8 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 125 5010 | renaissance-hotels.marriott.com Create your own dish as part of “Love Poke”, the latest dining deal at Flavors all-day dining venue. Originating from Hawaii—with a Japanese twist—poke is a Pacific Rim specialty made from raw fish, and ingredients tossed together with soy sauce, sesame oil, and a pinch of Hawaiian salt. Diners can create their own healthy poke bowl as part of Flavors’ already popular dinner buffet, which also features surf and turf from the grill, and delectable desserts. Priced at B1,600, this special is available every Sunday to Thursday until the end of March, from 6pm to 10:30pm.

A Combination of Champagne and Oysters at The House On Sathorn

The House on Sathorn at the W Bangkok hotel | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4025 | www.thehouseonsathorn.com Every Monday to Friday, from 5:30pm to 7:30pm at The Bar at The House on Sathorn, get a taste of the luxurious life with unlimited champagne or sparkling wine, complemented with free flow fresh oysters, hand-selected by Chef Fatih Tutak. Spend your after-work hours in an exclusive setting as the perfect match of bubbly and oysters sets the mood. The Gold package, priced at B1,450 per person, includes 90-minutes free-flow Prosecco and oysters, while the Platinum package, priced at B2,250 per person, includes 90-minutes free flow champagne and oysters. Available until the end of March.

Oyster Extravaganza at Espresso: Savour The World’s Finest Varieties Intercontinental Bangkok hotel | 973 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0444 | www.bangkok.intercontinental.com Savour the planet’s finest oyster varieties—including Fine de Clair, Coffin Bay, and Smokey Bay, each complemented by an array of condiments and sauces—at Espresso all this month. Try the many different styles and preparations, including: Oysters Rockefeller; Cauliflower Oyster Gratin; Oyster Frittata; Pork Rolled with Bacon and Oyster in Mushroom Sauce; Roasted Sea Bass with Oyster Sauce; Oyster stuffed Bell Peppers; and Roasted Potatoes with Oyster Sauce. Priced at B1,400 per person, this special is available until March 31st, Monday to Thursday evenings.

80 | M A RCH 2018

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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK

Female Food Forum

The Women in Gastronomy (WIG) event at The Sukhothai Bangkok brings together top-rated female chefs—both international and local Ana Ros

Cristina Bowerman

he Women in Gastronomy (WIG) food forum, taking place at The Sukhothai Bangkok on March 8th, will showcase an array of acclaimed female chefs—both from Thailand and beyond. And the fact that this empowering event takes place on International Women’s Day will lend it even more matronly magnitude. The concept behind this one-of-akind culinary event is to bring together some 15 top-rated female chefs from around the world for a full-day conference that will feature speeches, presentations, and interactive panel discussions. The gathering will also double as a long-format gourmet luncheon, in which several of the guest chefs will present one dish each for guests to taste, and then tell a story around the concept behind that dish. All the participating chefs have had their respective restaurants recognized globally, and all have a unqiue story to tell from a female perspective. Some of the illustrious kitchen talent already confirmed to appear includes: Ana Ros from Hisa Franko, Kobarid, Slovenia (she currently holds the title of ‘World’s Best Female Chef’); Cristina Bowerman from the Michelin-starred Glass Hosteria in Rome, Italy; and Martina Caruso from

the Michelin-starred Hotel Signum on Salina Island, Italy.

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The scheduled day-long roster of events begins at 9:30am with registration, welcome remarks, and a keynote speech from Ana Ros. After a networking break things continue with a cooking demonstration at Celadon restaurant, followed by a panel discussion and presentation entitled ‘Driving Gender Equality in Kitchens’. Next up is a series of special luncheon talks, with each chef doing a story telling and tasting presentation. More guest speakers will deliver words of wisdom, followed by a second networking break, and a cooking demonstration at La Scala restaurant. After the final preceedings and closing remarks there will be a cocktail mixer reception at The Zuk Bar from 6pm to

Martina Caruso

7pm. There conference attendees will have a chance to meet and greet with all of the guest chefs. Tickets for WIG are priced at B5,800 per person, and include all conference activities, the full-day luncheon (15 courses!) and cocktails. For more information just log on to www.womeningastronomy.asia. Seats can be reserved in advance by calling 02 286 7821, or by emailing to: info@gastronauts.asia. Nooror Somany Steppe from Blue Elephant

This not-to-be-missed foodie event is presented in collaboration with Gastronauts Asia, the S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna Fine Dining Lovers Series, Turkish Airlines, Bangkok 101 magazine, and The Sukhothai Bangkok. M A RCH 2018 | 81

FOOD & DRINK | review

Enoteca

Innovative Italian fare encapsulates the sublime pleasure of fine dining

or those who love traditional Italian hospitality, yet also appreciate creative and innovative cuisine, Enoteca is a favourite spot. Tucked away on a secluded soi in a mostly residential area, this appealing little restaurant exudes tranquility and exclusivity and has built a loyal following with locals as well as tourists. Perhaps it’s the personalized attention lavished on each guest by owner Nicola Bonazza, or maybe it’s the quaint charm of the understated European décor. No matter how you approach it, it’s an engaging restaurant that encompasses everything you love about Italian food, but with a unique and innovative twist that always keeps you guessing while never failing to satisfy.

82 | M A RCH 2018

including some varietals that are unique to this restaurant. Chef Stefano Borra from Turin, in Piedmont, is currently heading up the kitchen and recommended the 5-course menu, priced at B1,990++ per person (food only). We began with several tasty amuse-bouche items, including their sublime Frozen Parmesan with Fresh Black Truffle. This was followed by the rich and decadent Jerusalem Artichoke (served three ways) with Cardoons and Black Truffles. It is a stunningly simple dish with a complex depth of flavour that elevates the humble ingredients to dizzying heights. For wine, go strictly Italian! Both the 2010 Abbazia Kerner and the 2015 Broglia Gavi di Gavi DOCG, are nice options that go well with the set menu. Another highlight is the ‘Lasagna 2017’ which is a deconstructed version of the classic favourite. Playing with the contrast between texture, temperature, and taste, it delivers truly authentic flavours in a masterful and thoughtful way. We also highly recommend the delightfully earthy Venison with Popcorn, White Bean Cream, and Caramelized Fig. For dessert try the avant-garde Chocolate Cigar, along with a nice Moscato Grappa digestif. The restaurant is situated in a Dining at Enoteca is the antithesis restored historic home—a venue that of a “quick fix” meal, and will appeal is warm and inviting without being to anyone who appreciates the pretentious. Small and intimate, the sublime pleasure of fine dining. interior design includes wine barrels, They create some of the most exposed brick walls, wicker furniture, compelling Italian cuisine in Bangkok, wood floors, and a traditional Italian colour palate throughout. Wine bottles and it is consistently delivered at the highest level. There is always line the walls, and the main dining something unique to discover, and room is anchored by the charcuterie the exceptional service and casual bar where cured meat and aged ambiance make dining at Enoteca truly chesses sit on display. unforgettable. by Melissa Richter Guests can choose from an à la carte or “Specials” menu, or opt for one of several seasonal degustation menus that feature ambitious and Enoteca Italiana modern interpretations of classic 39. Sukhumvit Soi 27 Italian fare. In addition, Enoteca boasts Open daily: 5pm-midnight a rarefied wine cellar which features Tel: 02 258 4386 more than 1,400 top shelf wines, www.enotecabangkok.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

L’Appart

“Fun dining” at a French-inspired apartment

icture a successful Parisian businessman who has settled in Bangkok, but is travelling abroad for work. Before he left, he entrusted his apartment keys to his decadent nephew. No sooner had the uncle left, the nephew invited his friends over to share in some of the best things in life: modern French cuisine and ‘tapas’, wines from around the world and creative cocktails, plus hip lounge music. That apartment in question is none other than the L’Appart—short for l’appartment— rooftop restaurant and bar located on the 32nd floor of the Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit hotel. Walking around the “apartment”— which features a private dining room, living room, open plan kitchen with chef’s table, and an outdoor terrace that boasts magnificent views of downtown Bangkok—references to France can be found in its every detail; from the art deco strewn walls, to the books and magazines scattered on every table. Stylish and classy but cozy and comfy, we were ready to pack our bags and move in. bangkok101.com

Helming the kitchen, and our host for the night, is France-born Executive Sous Chef Nicolas Basset. His menu offers French-inspired cuisine with an Asian twist, and a focus on “fun dining” where sharing is encouraged. French tapas including Truffled Camembert (B350), Oxtail Bon-Bon with Tartare Sauce (B380), and Tuna Tartare with Lemongrass Vinaigrette (B390), are served from 5pm to midnight. For mains, Smoked Atlantic Octopus, Ratte Potatoes, and Black Garlic Aioli (B690 for a single portion, or B1,200 for sharing-sized) came highly recommended, and upon arrival it was evident why. Cameras in hand, we were advised to switch to Slow-Mo mode to capture the smoke slowly whirl through the air to reveal a beautifully cooked dish. The octopus was incredibly soft and tender and finished with a drizzle of lemon for a refreshing mouthful of flavour. Next, the Canadian Lobster served with Spaghetti, Dry Aged Ham, Garlic and Fresh Herbs (B790 for a single portion, and B1,580 for a sharing-sized portion) was a clear reminder to enjoy

the finer things in life. The Soya Glazed Pork Belly (B790), however, was a showstopper. Inspired by a trip to Japan, hints of orange lingered long after the buttery soft meat melted in your mouth. A light celeriac purée also accompanied the dish to cut the richness of the pork belly. For something sweet, the Phuket Pineapple (B380) flambéed in rum and served with Tahiti vanilla ice cream provided a boozy finish to the evening. This portion is suited for two persons. A dry 2016 Gerard Bertrand Gris Blanc Rosé perfectly balanced the sweetness of the dish—and gave it an extra touch of decadence, just as the nephew likes it. While dinner is served from 7pm to 10:30pm, the bar opens at 5pm and keeps the soirée going until 1am. by Kelly Harvey

L’Appart

32F, Sofitel Sukumvit Bangkok 189 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 126 9999 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit.com M A RCH 2018 | 83

FOOD & DRINK | review

MoMo Café

If “boutique buffet” is a thing, this is it

schewing the multiple cuisinespanning approach, MoMo Café is proof that when it comes to premium international all-you-can-eat buffet dining, bigger is not always better. Besides the delightfully alliterated couplet of a name, the cozy, 60-seat dining room—located in the Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista— is endowed with a tasteful modern design inside, while the uncomplicated, street-access entry means no lifts, escalators, or cascading stairways to navigate. And despite being only steps from busy North Sathorn Road, MoMo Café is at heart a denizen of the increasingly lively, pub-speckled Soi Suan Plu precinct in which is it resides. The compact buffet selection hits the mark for both quality and taste satisfaction, and value for money, by focusing on expertly prepared, surefire-favourite dishes featuring top-grade meats and fish, along with a menu of mains prepared at your request. In addition, the 6pm to 10pm dining period gives one the equivalent of half the average workday to relax and savour every bite between return trips to the serving line, while the time-spanning daily Happy Hour offers 84 | M A RCH 2018

Buy One-Get One Free cocktails from 5pm to 9pm, making a visit here a reasonably priced dine-out experience. MoMo Café is making its popular Friday to Sunday night Surf & Turf Buffet (B899++ per person) even better with some seriously tasty new additions, and throughout March yellowfin tuna is the star of the rotating roster of featured fare. Populating the buffet’s lighter-fare precinct are salad veggies and fixins’, assorted canapés and dainties, market-fresh sashimi and sushi rolls, and fresh seafood with sauces. A line-up of hot-dish offerings beckons, with the aromas of house specialties like our favourites, Hazelnut Encrusted Seabass and Chicken with Mizo Glaze, while exploratory samplings of the Roasted Pepper Pork Loin-Prune Sauce and cheesy-good Baked Potato Pot proved well-taken. But the real star of this bounteous feed is the “cooked-to-order” selection, which includes a new featureingredient every three months. Putting in an order for the Japanese Wagyu Steak, we received two gorgeous slices of sear-crusted, rare-cooked beef, melt-in-mouth tender and served with some very nice spinach croquette-

balls, while the equally succulent New Zealand Lamb Chop arrived plated with a classic pair-up of mashed potato and gravy. The featured Yellowfin Tuna Steak with balsamic sauce is appetizingly grill-striped, flavourful and fresh, with a spicy corn salsa keeping the tongue on its toes. This elite pescado also makes most welcomed appearances in appetizers like Tuna Tartare with Rice Cracker, Spicy Tuna Roll, and Nam Prik Pla Tuna, along with hot dishes like Crab and Tuna Fried Rice, and Poached Tuna in Chili-Wasabe Lime. The cooked-to-order menu presentations are impressive and the preparation spot-on, and the appetizerscale portions are well-suited for weekend buffet dining. And in keeping with the restaurant’s let’s-drop-in-for-abite/friendly-neighbourhood-diner vibe, here there’s no rush. by Chris Micheal

MoMo Café

Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista 1, Sathorn Soi 3 (Soi Suan Plu) Tel: 02 343 6789 Surf & Turf Buffet: Fri-Sun, 6pm-10pm www.facebook.com/marriottsathornvista bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Jojo

A well-loved Italian restaurant that simply gets better with age

nter Jojo restaurant from the light-filled, lofted lobby of The St. Regis Bangkok hotel, and step into the long-standing home of refined Italian cuisine in an elegant yet approachable setting. Since 2011, discerning businesspeople and ladies who lunch have come to Jojo for languorous lunches and indulgent dinners, where the consistently impressive cuisine is a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation. Eye-catching, sculptural chandeliers hang over the spacious dining room, the well-spaced tables offer privacy for working lunches, and the hushed tones of the upscale patrons add to the intimacy of the bangkok101.com

meal. A structural glass-walled wine cellar is on display in the centre of the dining room—a trophy case of top Italian and other European vintages. But if you’re here for brunch, don’t forget The St. Regis hotel group is responsible for bringing us the famous ‘Bloody Mary’ cocktail, and it would be a shame to miss their inspired original creation. Set lunch menus at Jojo offer outstanding value for money, and the antipasti buffet, main course, and dessert (B990), is a filling mix of cold cuts, carpaccio, pâté, slow food selections, and seasonal produce. Feeling indulgent? The restaurant’s cheese trolley (B350 supplement)

highlights the best imported hard and soft cheeses, like creamy brie and fragrant blue cheese. For a real treat, selections from the à la carte menu showcase the care and artful precision of the experienced culinary team. Homemade crusty bread with a warm and soft centre arrives at the table with an egg yolk dip but, no matter how tempting, don’t fill up on the bread. Instead, start with Handmade Cappelli Pasta (B560) filled with a warm beetroot coulis which—when eaten in a single bite as the chef instructs—pops in your mouth like an Italian interpretation of xiao long bao. The tartness of the beetroot is undercut by the sharpness of a warmed gorgonzola cheese sauce, and the Instagram-worthy dish shines in both presentation and taste. A pair of meat dishes highlight the restaurant’s care in sourcing highquality ingredients. Opt for the Venison Loin (B1,490) or the Lamb Chops (B1,630), the latter of which arrives at the table atop a plate bursting with colourful root vegetables and a honey and thyme glaze. The lamb chops are baked with lavender and thyme, which is then burnt in a cast iron cocotte and left on the table, so the smell of the smoky and aromatic herbs lingers as you eat. The venison loin is imported from France and is tender and perfectly cooked at medium rare (the chef’s recommendation). Green dollops of herbed and puréed garlic dot the plate to add flavour and presentation, and the top cut of venison is generously coated with sesame seeds. Finish with Homemade Cannoli (B360), with almond ice cream and a drizzle of sauce made from imported Spanish figs. by Ashley Niedringhaus

Jojo

GF, The St. Regis Bangkok 159 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 207 7815 Open daily: noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm www.stregisbangkok.com/fb_jojo M A RCH 2018 | 85

FOOD & DRINK | review

Upstairs at Mikkeller

A star is born from the unlikely pairing of craft beer and gourmet fare

hen the 2017 Michelin Guide Bangkok was published last December, many were surprised to see Upstairs at Mikkeller with a coveted star beside its name—even Chef Dan Bark, who admits it was “so unexpected”. So, have things changed much? “We’re a little busier,” admits Dan, although the fact that this intimate upstairs eatery—there’s just a half dozen tables—is booked for the next two months solid means this award-winning chef is just being his usual humble self. The restaurant has also increased its operating hours, now serving its signature set dinner menus with craft beer pairings four nights a week (up from three). For those lucky enough to secure a table, the exquisitely curated feast—there are over a dozen courses if you include every amuse bouche and palate cleanser—is pure gastronomic pleasure (B3,300++ per person). One or two of Chef Dan’s culinary creations may prove challenging, such as the Ikura (Japanese salmon roe) with blueberries and thyme infused milk—think of it as a salty, milky bubble tea—but most are just divinely 86 | M A RCH 2018

delicious. A definite standout was the Seafood Bisque, with white shrimp, clams, papaya, guava, and the most wonderful smoky shimeji mushrooms adding a bacon-like tinge. We were also enraptured by the tender Wagyu Beef, served with a dollop of what looked like dark chocolate mousse but turned out to be silky smooth truffled mashed potatoes. The kitchen team operates—with fluid, clockwork precision—out of a small recessed open area at the rear of the restaurant (easily observed by diners), but for the Tortellini course the kitchen comes to the table as the consommé is flame-cooked à la minute in a small hourglass shaped device. Once ready, the server pours it over the pasta shells filled with braised pork that share a bowl with coconut, cucumber, and coriander, and all the aromas of the fresh-made broth can be savoured. The mains conclude with a lovely sous vide Duck, with orange sauce delivering sweetness while an olive purée provides a balancing tang. A series of desserts follow, each more tantalizing than the last, and all displaying the same gorgeous plating techniques that make

each dish here a small work of art. Enhancing all these superb taste experiences is an expertly prepared menu of craft beers, ciders, meads, and cherry wines, with each dish (or dishes) having their own suggested selection of pairings to choose from. However, putting yourself in the hands of the restaurant’s “beer sommelier” is a great way to both experiment, and take advantage of the master’s know-how. Our craft beer pairing voyage included—among others—the Gyp Wit (B240), a summery, citrussy white beer, as well as the Saison Sauvin (B300), and the Hopwired IPA (B280), both from New Zealand’s 8 Wired Brewing. By the time dessert came we were cracking a can of Modern Times (B310), a smooth oatmeal coffee stout from San Diego, rounding out a dining experience that may have trouble ever being surpassed. by Bruce Scott

Upstairs at Mikkeller 26, Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2 Tel: 091 713 9034 Open: Wed-Sat, 6pm-10pm www.upstairs-restaurant.com

bangkok101.com

special report | FOOD & DRINK

All Eyes on Macau

The 2018 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards take place on March 27th

fter three years in Singapore, and two years in Bangkok, the region’s most respected chefs and restaurateurs are set to swap their chef whites for their best suits and travel to Macau for the 2018 edition of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list awards ceremony, sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna. All will be revealed on the 27th of March, and no doubt some surprises are in store for this year’s gathering of global gourmands. The 2018 awards presentation will take place at Macau’s Wynn Palace Cotai, as Wynn is the official venue partner. Macau boasts its own eclectic Wynn Palace food scene, with an array of cultural and culinary influences—from Chinese to Portuguese to Macanese—making it an ideal destination choice for this year’s gala event. In fact, Macau is home to two of the restaurants ranked in the 2017 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list: Jade Dragon at No.32; and The Tasting Room at No.39. The list itself is created from the votes of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, an influential group of over 300 leaders in the restaurant industry across Asia, each selected for their expert opinion of Asia’s restaurant scene. The panel in each region is Gaggan Anand made up of food writers and critics, chefs, restaurateurs, and highly regarded ‘gastronomes’. Members list The Dining Room at the House on Sathorn (No.36); Le Du (No.37), and their choices in order of preference, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Bangkok’s based on their best restaurant branch of the French chef’s worldwide experiences of the previous 18 chain (No.40). months. There is no pre-determined This year all eyes will be on check-list of criteria, but there are Macau to see if superstar chef Gaggan strict voting rules. Anand can continue his winning For the past five years, Thailand streak and claim an unprecedented has been well represented in the four years in a row in the top spot. list, and with Bangkok’s own Gaggan It will also be interesting to see who restaurant clinching the No.1 spot stays on the list, who will join the three years in a row (2015-2017), this list for the first time, and who will city has truly become a fine dining, be named in the additional awards foodie mecca. Last year there were nine Bangkok-based eateries in the top categories such as the ‘Chefs’ Choice Award’, and the ‘Highest Climber 50, including: Nahm (No.5); Sühring Award’. One special category winner (No.13); Bo.lan (No.19); Issaya Siamese Club (No.21); Eat Me (No.31); who has already been announced bangkok101.com

Bongkoch ‘Bee’ Satongun is the recipient of the 2018 Asia’s Best Female Chef award. The award is sponsored by Elit Vodka, and on February 6th it was revealed that Chef Bongkoch ‘Bee’ Satongun from Paste restaurant—right here in Bangkok—is to be crowned this year’s winner. The Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018 programme will also include a brand new edition of #50BestTalks to be held on Monday, March 26th. This informative panel discussion will bring together the most influential chefs from the region to discuss current food topics and emerging trends. By Bruce Scott www.theworlds50best.com/asia M A RCH 2018 | 87

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Alessandro Frau

Meet the creative mastermind behind one of Phuket’s most authentic Italian fine dining experiences

riginally from Sardinia, Alessandro Frau—the Executive Chef and owner of Acqua Restaurant—has dedicated his life to perfecting his culinary craft. “I know how much time, thinking, and creativity is needed to create a perfect dish,” he says, “and it’s not easy at all.” Perhaps creating the perfect dish is not easy, but Chef Alessandro truly makes the process look effortless. With a focus on gourmet cuisine composed of only the freshest, highest quality ingredients, he draws upon 88 | M A RCH 2018

culture, tradition, and evolution to create his vision of authentic Italian cuisine that has, and will, last through the ages. “The concept of my cuisine and what we do here at Acqua is really authentic Italian, but we’ve evolved the Italian cuisine into today while keeping the traditions and the ingredients of Italy.” Alessandro began his culinary love affair while studying English in London. In order to pay for his schooling, he took a job working as a waiter

in a Turkish restaurant. He spent a lot of time in the kitchen helping with small tasks, such as chopping parsley, and immediately became fascinated by how the chefs created the plates and the overall general organization of the kitchen. He told his supervisor, “Maybe I want to move to the kitchen,” and once his wish was granted he grew very “passionate, passionate, passionate” about this aspect of the restaurant business. He returned to Sardinia where he spent the summer season working in bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

a resort and gaining more experience before heading off to work in Mexico, Sweden, and Finland. Eventually, he returned to Sardinia before heading off to Paris for six months for a job in an Italian restaurant. It was here in Paris, under the tutelage of Italian chefs, where Alessandro truly began to flourish. “You are growing. You have never done the position before, but they give you the trust and the opportunity to do it,” he recalls. “You want to learn, so you don’t mind.” The techniques and skills learned in Paris were invaluable to him, and sent Alessandro on a mission to learn even more. Fast forward a few years to 2004, when upon his arrival to Thailand he is appointed as Executive Chef at the Sheraton Grande Laguna in Phuket. “What I learned there was amazing. I got the experience and the confidence, and learned what I can do and what I cannot do.” Alessandro stayed on at the resort for four years before fulfilling his dream of opening a restaurant of his own. Acqua is one of Phuket’s most notable fine-dining venues. It’s located on Phuket’s western coast, on Kalim Beach, and offers guests a unique yet authentic Italian taste bangkok101.com

experience. Featuring sleek lines and a contemporary open design, the restaurant boasts a warm atmosphere and a creative edge. Designed exclusively by Alessandro himself, each modest detail—from the handmade Sardinian knives to the hodgepodge of glass candleholders—has been a labour of love for the chef. “Opening the restaurant was very exciting. I designed every centimetre of the place,” he explains. “When you see your vision coming to life it’s very exciting. It’s one of the most exciting moments when you create a restaurant.” Alessandro’s initial enthusiasm and efforts have paid off. Acqua has become one of Phuket’s most awarded restaurants as well as one of the most awarded restaurants in all of Thailand. It has won numerous accolades over the years, from esteemed publications such as Thailand Tatler and Travel Asia, but it was also lauded at the Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards, with Chef Alessandro being named ‘Icon of the Year’ in 2016, and ‘Chef of the Year’ in 2018. In addition, due to the restaurant’s extensive knowledge of fine wine, Acqua was given a Wine Spectator ‘Best of Award of Excellence’ in 2017. Wine pairings and wine, in

general, play a huge role in the total experience delivered at the restaurant, and the wine list selection is updated and improved on a yearly basis. Alessandro Frau has been individually named one of the Best 20 Chefs in Asia, and was also the winner of Iron Chef Thailand in November 2013. However, despite all of the awards and accolades the chef remains down to earth. He describes himself as “passionate, detailed, determined, humble and creative” and when asked about his hobbies, he simply states, “I quite enjoy growing my own tomatoes and herbs—like rosemary, basil, and thyme—in the garden. I have a small garden at Acqua where every day I take care of my tomatoes and herbs.” Reflecting upon his humble beginnings and how far he has come in a short time, Alessandro offers some wise advice to those just starting down the culinary path, “This business it is not easy, so if you start a restaurant business you have to be ready to dedicate all yourself to it—your passion, your time, and your heart!” interview by Amy Bensema

www.acquarestaurantphuket.com M A RCH 2018 | 89

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

Sendai Ramen Mokkori

n the darkness, navigating between potholes and broken paving stones, my friend and I find ourselves in that relatively quiet zone on Thong Lor—before you reach Sukhumvit and away from the chic eateries that draw the golden crowds further up the street.

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 90 | M A RCH 2018

Having eyed up a few vendors and scanned the darkness for the alluring glow of a cozy restaurant, we’ve finally come across a quaint and quirky Japanese café-cum-restaurant called Sendai Ramen Mokkori—a welcome port in our gathering storm of indecision and hunger. As we pass through sliding doors, we’re greeted with the widest of smiles from the restaurant’s Japanese owner, who is stationed at the front counter, deftly preparing noodles. He waves his giant chopsticks like the conductor of an orchestra of noodles. Have I walked out of one show and into another? Rows of partially empty sake bottles jostle for space on shelves above a hand-written sign declaring “Keep 3 Months.” A mosaic of faded photos depicts happy-looking

celebrities. It appears Sendai Ramen has earned a following over the years. Perhaps part of the appeal is its beer prices: all under B100. While my friends snap selfies, I get down to business. No ramen expert, I deploy my restaurant radar, using instinct to make my selection. I end up with a spicy karamiso soup, which is, of course, from Sendai— Sendai Karamiso Shashu Men. Before long, selfies complete, there’s more than one pair of chopsticks jabbing at my noodles, more than one spoon scooping up my soup. The noodles are smooth and al dente, complemented by butter-like shashu and the startling, aromatic spice of karamiso (roasted chilli miso) that melts into the rusty-brown soup. The whole table keeps quiet as we let the food do the talking for once.

Getting there: Sendai Ramen Mokkori is on 8/3 Soi Sukhumvit 55, or Soi Thong Lo 2. About 200 metres from Sukhumvit, you will notice some red Japanese lanterns hanging in front of a restaurant on the right side. Open between 11am and 1am. Cash only. Tel: 02 392 0811. bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE Liu

A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes. 3F, Conrad Bangkok, 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 023 078 888, ext. 1948 www.chatrium.com

Xin Tian Di

The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches, and à la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok. 22F, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Tel: 02 632 9000 Open daily: 6pm-10pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am2:30pm, Sun, 11am-2:30pm www.crowneplazabkk.com

Brasserie Cordonnier

Serving exquisite Gallic favourites— from French onion soup to beef bourguignon—this high ceilinged eatery brings hearty and savoury French fare to Bangkok’s hungry hordes. 33/30, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 094 970 8599 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.cordonnierbkk.com

FRENCH Aldo’s Bistro Silver Waves

Silver Waves

A stylish and contemporary Cantonese restaurant with a glorious riverside setting. Try the signature Peking Duck. 36F, Chatrium Riverside Hotel 18 Charoenkrung Rd.

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This superb French restaurant, founded by chef Hervé Frerard, offers a refined and welcoming dining atmosphere, and a tantalizing menu to match (with dishes seldom found elsewhere in Bangkok). 7/F, Ascott Sathorn, 187 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 676 6982 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.aldosbistro.com

Outlaw Creative Cuisine

This restaurant definitely lives up to its name, serving daring fare with an artistic flair, and letting the high quality ingredients speak for themselves. 415, Charoen Krung Soi 45 Tel: 090 021 2111 Open: Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, Sat,

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listings | FOOD & DRINK 10am-2pm, 5pm-10:30pm, Sun 5pm-10:30pm www.facebook.com/outlawcreativecuisine

Loulou Forks & Glasses

This cozy bistro-style spot offers superb savoury selections such as cold cuts and cheeses, as well as market-fresh daily specials and affordably good wines. 459/61, Suan Phlu Soi 8 Tel: 083 041 4351 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.louloubangkok.com

GREEK Avra Greek Restaurant

Rising from the mid-Sukhumvit culinary clutter like a Parthenon of Hellenic delights, this charming eatery offers an impressively expansive menu that includes all the perennial favourites prepared with thoughtful touches. GF, Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit 1 Soi Daengudom, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open: Tue-Fri, noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Sat-Sun, noon-11pm, Mon, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 258 2877 www.avrabkk.com

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GERMAN Sühring

German gastronomy comes alive using modern techniques and high-quality ingredients, while still following traditional flavour profiles. The kitchen of this Michelin-starred restaurant is helmed by a pair of identical twin chefs, and the results are like nothing you’ll see anywhere else. 10, Yen Akat Soi 3 Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.facebook.com/suhringshome

INDIAN Bawarchi

The kind of curries you’ve been missing— rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious. Check out any one of Bawarchi’s Bangkok four locations. BF, Intercontinental Chidlom 973 Ploenchit Rd, Tel: 02 656 0101-3 1F, Ambassador Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 253 2394 India-Thai Chamber of Commerce Building,

Sathorn Soi 1, Tel: 02 677 6249 20/11, Sukhumvit Soi 4, Tel: 02 656 7357 www.bawarchiindian.com

Gaggan

A must-visit for foodies, this progressive, molecular Indian cuisine resto has been voted number one for three consecutive years—2015 to 2017—on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and now it has 2 Michelin stars to its name. Try one of the recommended tasting menus. 68/1 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 652 1700 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.eatatgaggan.com

Maya

A high-flying joint that contains more than a few surprises, from cocktails with Indian twists to food that marries ingredients unusual in Indian cuisine with classic manifestations from the Subcontinent. 29F, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 683 4888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.mayathailand.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings

Punjab Grill

style of a restaurant, with the laidback feel of a cozy café. An idyllic setting to sit back, relax, and enjoy some quality wining and dining. GF, Marriott Executive Apartments 90, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 302 5265 Buffet available: 6:30pm-10pm www.marriott.com

Punjab Grill Bangkok

Blunos

This popular restaurant franchise—there are over 26 outlets in India—brings to Bangkok diners an element of refinement to Indian cuisine, through ornate presentation, amazing flavours, inventive tasting menus, and creative cocktailpairings. Radisson Suites Bangkok Sukhumvit 23/2-3, Sukhumvit Soi 13 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm Tel: 02 645 4952 www.punjabgrillbangkok.com

INTERNATIONAL Bistro M

This venue combines the offerings and

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Chef Martin Blunos and his talented team conjure up plate after plate of international home-style fare featuring all the classics with more than a few surprises too, all savoured over a large portion of laid-back ambiance with a side order of smooth sounds. 14F, Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn 33/1 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 210 8100 Open daily: 9am-midnight www.eastingrandsathorn.com

Elements

This Michelin-starred restaurant expertly fuses Japanese and French culinary aesthetics, flavours, and precision, in a retro-futuristic space that feels like

a home study but has the theatricality of a playhouse. Meanwhile, views of Bangkok’s downtown cityscape can be enjoyed from the restaurant’s open-air deck. 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 687 9000 www.okurabangkok.com

Embassy Room

Ultra-modern and sophisticated, this restaurant features an all-day menu of contemporary European cuisine with a definite Asian flair. 9F, The Park Hyatt Bangkok Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234

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listings | FOOD & DRINK Open daily: 6am-10:30am, noon-2pm, 6pm-10pm www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 624 0000 www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Red Oven

Flow

This all-day dining spot offers guests a daily buffet-with-a-view, as the restaurant overlooks the Chao Phraya River. Don’t miss their spectacular Seafood Friday spread, which serves up an impressively diverse spread of top-tier imported crab, oysters, shrimp, fish, and more! Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoen Nakhon Rd. Every Friday: 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 442 2000 www3.hilton.com

Freebird

The tagline here is ‘Modern Australian Cuisine’ which makes more sense once you sample a few of the astoundingly inventive morsels on the menu. Try the chef’s special multi-course tasting menu, and prepare to plunge into gastronomic bliss. 28, Sukhumvit Soi 47 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Weekend brunch: 11am-3pm Tel: 02 662 4936 www.facebook.com/freebirdbkk

Karmakamet Diner

Although the café style selections are outstanding, the talented kitchen team is also adept at creating some serious fine dining dishes. 30/1 Soi Methi Niwet Tel: 02 262 0700 Open daily: 10am-11:30pm www.karmakametdiner.com

Park Society

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this high-altitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus. bangkok101.com

Styled as a ‘World Food Market’, this all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. And on weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet. 7F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two milieus. Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Opem daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

ITALIAN Don Giovanni

From the big wooden pillars to the villa scenery painted on walls and busts on pedestals, this restaurant transports patrons to a different place and time, with a menu that offers Italian classics and a piano player tickles the ivories as one dines. GF, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao 1693 Phahonyothin Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 541 1234, ext. 4169 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

La Scala The Penthouse Bar & Grill

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

With a design concept that conjures up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill kitchen at this stunning restaurant space and cocktail bar dishes up succulent steaks and other meaty morsels. It’s also home to what has to be the coolest looking whisky room in the city. 34-36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 bangkok.park.hyatt.com

This fine dining Italian gourmet restaurant specializes in classic artistic, chef-style cooking, serving up dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavour. The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: Lunch, 12pm-2:30pm, Dinner, 6:30pm-11pm www.sukhothai.com

Up & Above

This 24th floor restaurant in the five star Okura Prestige Bangkok hotel boasts a brunch to rival all others—delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: noon-10:30pm Sunday Brunch: noon-3pm www.okurabangkok.com

Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant

Neither an open-air rooftop bar, nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco

Pizza Massilia

This gourmet pizzeria strives to combine aspects of French cuisine with traditional Italian tastes. Now with three locations. 15/1 Soi Ruam Ruedi, Tel: 02 651 5091 1/8, Sukhumvit Soi 49, Tel: 02 015 0297 118 Silom Soi 1, Tel: 062 701 9990 www.pizzamassilia.com

Scalini

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FOOD & DRINK | listings by the impressive culinary skills of the resident chef, who blends a heartfelt love of the power of ingredients with expertly executed and innovative culinary techniques and bold flavour combinations. Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok hotel 11, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Open daily: 6am-11am, 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 620 6699 www3.hilton.com

Tel: 02 088 0706 www.ssjd-katana.com

Theo Mio – Italian Kitchen

Ten-Sui

This charming, light-filled indoor restaurant—with a small outdoor seating area streetside—serves up classic Italian fare, as seen through the eyes of British celebrity restaurateur Theo Randall (his homemade pastas are especially tempting). GF, InterContinental Bangkok Hotel 973 Ploen Chit Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-11:30pm Tel: 02 656 0444 bangkok.intercontinental.com

JAPANESE

Shintori

If you’re looking for a dinner that will impress on all fronts, the combination here of a thrilling setting and equally exciting food, is hard to beat. 18F, Zen World@Central World Tel: 02 100 9000 Open daily: 5:30pm-11:30pm www.shintoribangkok.com

High-end Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok, but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience than you’ll find at this elegant eatery. 33, Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 088 540 1001 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm www.tensui.co

Sushi and sashimi purists take note, a staggering 90 percent of the seafood is selected from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. 5F, Central Embassy 1031 Phloenchit Rd. Tel: 02 160 5880-1 Open daily: 11am-10.30pm www.yuutaro.com

Benihana

The deliciously inventive Japanese fusion cuisine here is equally matched by the inventiveness of the décor—where each private dining room has a different, eye-popping design scheme. 21/38, Sukhumvit Soi 23 (Soi Prasanmit) Open daily 5:30pm-10:30pm 96 | M A RCH 2018

Get out your bib because this popular seafood spot—now with two locations— serves up mouth-watering “New England-style” lobster, clams, crabs, and plenty more. 7F, Helix Bldg, EmQuartier mall, Tel: 096 197 5769 GF, Siam Paragon mall, Tel: 02 610 9713 www.facebook.com/crabandclaw

SPANISH/LATIN

El Tapeo

This three-storey restaurant, which specializes in tapas-style offerings, offers authentic Spanish tastes at very affordable prices. 159/10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 052 0656 Open: Sun, Tue-Thu, 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat, 11:30am-1am www.eltapeobkk.com

Uno Mas

Benihana

Katana Shabu & Japanese Dining

Crab and Claw

Yuutaro

KOREAN

At the centre of every table is a hot grill, where a chef cooks for you, stimulating appetites with a deft and close-range slicing of onions, zucchini, shrimp, pork, steak—even the fried rice. Avani Atrium Bangkok,1880 Petchaburi Rd. Tel: 02 718 2023 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.avanihotels.com

SEAFOOD

Kong Ju

When you’re voted Bangkok’s favourite Korean restaurant 13 years running you must be doing something right. The chefs here go to painstaking lengths to ensure an authentic dining experience, by preparing meals of unparalleled culinary brilliance. Highly recommended. 2F, Pathumwan Princess Hotel, 444, MBK Center, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 216 3700 Open daily: Lunch, 11:30am-2pm, Dinner, 5:30pm-10pm www.pprincess.com

With its expansive menu of authentic Spanish specialties, coupled with spectacular city views, this chic, sky-high tapas bar and restaurant reaches new “heights” in several respects. 54F, Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 4pm-1am Tel: 02 100 6255 www.unomasbangkok.com

STEAK & BURGER Burger Factory

Here you’ll find some of the most consistently good hamburgers in the city, and they come with a healthy range of haute toppings. Wash your choice down with a vanilla milkshake and seal the with some yummy curly fries. bangkok101.com

3, Soi Ekkamai 10 Tel: 02 714 4249 Open: Sun-Thu, 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat ,11.30am-midnight www.facebook.com/theburgerfactory

THAI 80/20

The compact but constantly changing menu offers mind-blowingly modern takes on a vast array of Thai-sourced ingredients, creating unforgettable dishes with complex flavour profiles. And on’t pass up the dessert selections! 1052-1054, Charoen Krung 26 Tel: 087 593 1936 Open: Wed-Mon, 5pm-11:45pm www.facebook.com/8020bkk

Bo.Lan

Authentic, but daring, this is one of the top Thai restaurants in all of Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this Michelin-starred restaurant remains so popular year after year. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 53 Tel: 02 260 2962 Open: Tue-Sun, 11:30am-10:30pm www.bolan.co.th

Madame Shawn

Born in Thailand, Madame Shawn currently has six popular eateries in and around Paris, but this is her first Bangkok restaurant. Expect authentic Thai delicacies with innovative European twists—all at very affordable prices. 127, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 3 Alley Open daily: 11am-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 258 1205 www.mmeshawn.com/bbk

Mango Tree

Basil

The venue itself is just pure elegance, craftily marrying the pomp and fanfare of hotel chic with the safe comforts of casual fine dining. Meanwhile, the concept behind the set menu is that guests take a journey—in eight courses—discovering the regional tastes of Thailand. 1F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Open: Mon-Fri, noon-2:30pm; daily, 6pm10:30pm Tel: 02 649 8366 www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com

Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant (and cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

The classic Thai cuisine served here is as approachable and welcoming as the spacious and open multi-level seating area. In addition, there are nightly Thai dance and music performances. 37 Soi Tantawan, Surawongse Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-midnight Tel: 02 236 2820 www.exquisinethai.com

57 Wireless Rd, Tel: 02 108 2200 www.deandeluca.com/thailand

Kiosk Café

Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boÎte is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cakeand-chat, or a delicious hot coffee. 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 259 4089 Open: Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com

Sift Bakery

Furnished with large floor-to-ceiling windows, and a counter displaying an assortment of desserts and pastries, diners at this café can enjoy their orders in a spacious upstairs and downstairs seating area. GF, Amaranta Hotel Pracharatbumpen Soi 7 Open: Wed-Mon, 11am-10pm Tel: 02 691 1688 www.amarantahotel.com

VEGETARIAN

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, diners at this elegant, innovate eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an incredible culinary adventure down a road-less-travelled landscape. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-midnight Tel: 02 162 9000 www.kempinski.com/bangkok

CAFÉ Dean & Deluca

This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients. GF, MahaNakhon Cube, Tel: 02 023 1616 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, Tel: 02 261 0464 1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex Building,

Broccoli Revolution

This veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Rd (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 Facebook: Broccoli Revolution

Veganerie Concept

The modern-rustic interior is flooded with natural light, and the fare—from tantalizing dairy-free bakery desserts to vegan appetizers and main courses—is pretty “natural” as well. 35/2 Soi Methiniwet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) Tel: 02 258 8489 Open: Fri-Wed, 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/veganbakerybangkok

An intoxicating fusion of art and creativity at Oh Chic

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE trés chic et magnifique Ekkamai has a new drink and dine destination now that OH CHIC, on Sukhumvit Soi 63 (just behind the CIVIC HOTEL), has officially opened its doors. The space is roughly divided into four zones, including the dining area, where delectable Italian cuisine with a touch of Asian influence is served, and the low-lit lounge and bar, where colourful cocktail concoctions are whipped up by mercurial mixologists under a ceiling decorated with hanging Chinese umbrellas. There’s also a 1st floor private mezzanine, as well as an outdoor courtyard in which to mix and mingle. For entertainment DJs spin Wednesday to Saturday, plus there’s live music on Fridays, and a spectacular costumed dance performance and themed show at 9pm on Saturdays. Open daily from 5pm till 1am. www.facebook.com/ohchicbkk

intoxicatingly informative A part of the ongoing celebrations commemorating 150 years of bilateral relations between Italy and Thailand, TEXICA WINE is presenting AN ITALIAN WINE JOURNEY, a series of fun and informative weekly evening classes in which Khun Pe—owner of Texica—will lead oenophiles on a fabulous journey of discovery. Although the introductory first lesson already took place on February 28th, there’s still time to sign up for Lesson 2 (March 6th) which will highlight key Italian wine regions, Lesson 3 (March 14th), which talks about native grape varieties, and Lesson 4 (March 21st), which deals with premium wines such as Super Tuscans. Lessons 2 and 3 are priced at B1,500 each, while Lesson 4 is B2,000, and all classes take place from 6pm till 7:30pm at the TEXICA WAREHOUSE (Sukhumvit Soi 36, Sansabai 8). Call 089 799 3499, or email: narumpa@texica.co.th.

frozen treats with a kick If you’ve got both a sweet tooth, and an appreciation for fine distilled spirits, the newly launched RYN CAFÉ (2/6, Sukhumvit Soi 34) could easily become your new cool favourite hangout spot. Inside this petite but colourfully decorated space the delicious custom-crafted ice creams on the menu are all served with alcohol pairings, carefully curated by the bar and kitchen team. Some of the ice creams also have alcohol in them already—such as the yummy pineapple rum flavour, and the addictive salty caramel with bourbon—but don’t let that stop you from adding a little splash extra to your bowl. Open Wednesday through Sunday, from 11am till midnight. www.facebook.com/ryncafe

expanding empires Two of the city’s most successful drink spots have added outlets to their mini-empires, starting with the new IRON BALLS at Phrom Phong (Sukhumvit Soi 45). This is the 2nd branch of ASHLEY SUTTON’s steampunk gin distillery—with bartender CARSON QUINN overseeing the pours—and it’s located right in-between Sing Sing Theater and Quince restaurant. Open daily from 8pm till 1am. Meanwhile, over in Thong Lor, WISHBEER just opened its 3rd location, on the small side soi that connects the top of Sukhumvit Soi 57 to Sukhumvit Soi 55. Owner JEROME LE LOUER has 19 craft beers on tap at his newest locale, as well as 50 bottled brews (and all the beers have scored 90+ on www.ratebeer.com). Open daily from 8am (serving coffee) till midnight (serving beer).

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NIGHTLIFE | review

Aire Bar

The crowd-pleasing, wallet-friendly, laid-back rooftop you’ve been missing

he ever revolving door of new Bangkok bars turns yet again, this time revealing the type of bar locals have been pining for—an affordable rooftop bar. Aire Bar is situated on the 28th floor of the new Hyatt Place Sukhumvit Bangkok, and the hotel is hoping to carve out a market share catering to both locals and the self-reliant traveller. “Self-reliant”, it turns out, is industry speak for budget travellers who crave creature comforts and style, and this open-air, dual terrace watering hole is just that. Speedy elevators whisk libation seekers to the breezy, industrial-style rooftop space where wicker chairs belly up to a bar with ace views of Benjasiri Park. The laid-back décor feels more like lounging at a friend’s condo rooftop than an ostentatious sky bar, and the easygoing attitude means no dress code or picky door attendant to impress. The pièce de résistance, however, is that none of the six signature cocktails cost more than B280. Aussie transplant Nick Braun, who most recently added Chinatown’s Asia Today to his well-known resume,

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crafted the multi-step cocktails and trained the staff as well. His take on a Moscow mule is the Suffering Bastard (B280), which combines locally produced Grandma Jinn’s gin and Rebel Yell bourbon with ginger beer, lime, and aromatic bitters. It is equal parts sweet and balanced and, naturally, served in a copper mug. The cheekily named Rye on Time (B280) is the most spirit-forward choice on the menu and combines Rebel Yell rye, Bianco vermouth, grapefruit, honey, thyme, and orange bitters. Together the ingredients hit the perfect notes of citrus and smooth-drinking liquor with artful (aka: Instagrammable) presentation to boot. For something on the fresher side, the raspberry-based Sazzle (B280) mixes Broker’s Gin and JJ Whitley vodka with lime, sugar, and soda water, while kaffir lime leaf offsets the sweetness. Dozens of wines on Aire Bar’s list start at B1,000, and craft beer imports like Little Creatures (B280) round out the drinks menu. Those bang-foryour-baht deals and bar’s über-chilled vibe should pique your interest and lure you to Phrom Phong, but if you

need a bit more goading then swing by on Sunday afternoon when the bar opens at 3pm—making it the perfect post-brunch spot to sober up or keep the devilment going. To sop up the booze, order some of the bar’s generously portioned Western small plates, like the towering bowl of black and green olives (B320) combined with semi-sundried tomatoes, large hunks of feta, and slices of fresh rye bread. During our visit a few kitchen specialties were unfortunately unavailable, but the rest of the newlyopened operation ran without hiccups and the service was smooth. And we’ll be back soon for the promise of menu additions like the insanely addictive cheeses from Vivin, and pizza pies delivered from neighbouring La Piazza. by Ashley Niedringhaus

Aire Bar

28F, Hyatt Place Sukhumvit Bangkok 22/5, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Open: Mon-Thu, 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 5pm-1am; Sun, 3pm-11pm Tel: 02-055-1234 www.facebook.com/airebarbangkok bangkok101.com

review | NIGHTLIFE

Highball

An all-female squadron of bartenders makes spectacular, fuss-free drinks

transplant from Singaporean shores, spirit aficionados may already have heard of the cult following that Highball enjoys. After reading some descriptions however, the idea of an exclusively all-female ensemble of bar staff seemed like a bit of a gimmick to draw in the punters. Thankfully, Highball Bangkok turned out to be anything but. By definition a “highball” is a spirit and carbonated mixer combo. After bursting its way into the European drinking scene circa the 1700s, it was adopted into the very essence of Japanese Izakaya drinking culture. If you want a change from beer, but still want something with a decent amount of alcohol, highballs serve as a lighter, but still thirst quenching alternative— which is especially welcome in Bangkok’s often unrelenting heat. The bar is located just a stone’s throw away from Terminal 21 and the Asoke BTS station, on Sukhumvit Soi 19—a particular stretch of road that is often overlooked by locals because of the ubiquity of tourists milling around. But the owners of this bar clearly mean business and aim to attract a bangkok101.com

local crowd as well. Not only have they partnered with Jim Beam brand bourbon, they’ve also managed to nab an exclusive draft machine which carbonates each highball beverage to perfection—every time. As an absolute novice in this world, the fact that they use Hozaki ice, and that its carbon particles are finer than anything on the market, flies over my head. All I know is that you’ll absolutely enjoy every gulp. This place has now been bookmarked as my after work ‘local’. It’s obsession inducing. The all-female staff are trained from scratch here, and the investment shows in each perfectly executed drink. The Yuzu Highball (B220) is a dream. Made with fresh yuzu juice, it’s sweet, piquant, and I have the sneaking suspicion that it’s one of those drinks that catches up on you before you even know it. By contrast the Bussaba Highball (B220) is an interesting home grown addition, blending the Thai flavours of Kaffir lime, lemongrass, butterfly pea, and elderflower into a fresh, easy to drink concoction. There’s also a list of four rotating cocktails hand-crafted by

the bartenders themselves—with the gin-based Fish Bowl (B300) being a current stand out. Of course, they don’t just do highballs here, as they also have an extensive cocktail menu and will even go as far as to make bespoke drinks to suit your fancy. The beautifully light and sweet Lychee Rose Gin Fizz (B380) takes a lot of arm strength and effort, but is definitely worth the toil— and I swear it isn’t a “girlie drink”. Meanwhile, the absinthe infused Morning Glory Fizz (B320), made with Teacher’s Highland Cream, may just blow your mind. Not one to do things in half measure, they also have a selection of nicely executed Western and Asian light bites, such as marinated chicken wings, with prices ranging from B120 to B250. by Zipporah Gene

Highball Bangkok GF, Sacha’s Hotel Uno 28/19, Sukhumvit Soi 19 Open daily: 6am-1am Tel: 064 429 8624 www.fb.com/highballbkk

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NIGHTLIFE | listings

BAR The Bar

Featuring a black and gold colour theme, and both indoor and outdoor seating, this 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated, quiet, and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 7am-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Brew

cocktail menus created by talented bartenders. While a soundtrack featuring big band covers of pop songs plays on, the fun-loving staff jokes around with everyone, even the first-timers, but they also make sure all customers get the right drink for their tastes. Playhaus Thong Lor 205/22-23, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 712 5747 Open daily: 6pm-1am facebook.com/backstagecocktailbarbkk

Duke

Although it’s in a mall, this high-end whisky and cigar lounge—full to bursting with paintings and sculptures—feels more like a SoHo warehouse loft space owned by an eccentric millionaire. 1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 094 647 8888 Open daily: 11am-midnight facebook.com/pg/duke.gaysorn

Brew

See and be seen at any one of the city’s three Brew. All have a healthy list of foreign brews and ciders on tap. A beerlover’s dream. 1F, Seen Space, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor) Tel: 02 185 2366 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 185 2366 Asiatique, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 02 108 8744 www.brewbkk.com

Backstage Bar

Acclaimed as Bangkok’s best new cocktail bar, this drink spot offers a variety of

which stretches from 5pm till midnight, every day of the week. 2F, Dream Hotel, 10, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Open daily: 5pm-midnight Tel: 02 254 8500 www.dreamhotels.com/bangkok

J. Boroski Mixology

A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com

The Living Room Flava Bar & Lounge

Flava Bar & Lounge

Taking its visual cue from the private wet bar of British fashion designer Paul Smith, this fun and funky hangout also boasts Bangkok’s “longest happy hour”,

Home to one of the finest live jazz stages in Bangkok, this nightspot is tastefully decorated, and includes a sweeping bar, comfortable armchairs and sofas, and subdued lighting—not to mention fine whiskies, cocktails, and cognacs. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 1F, 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily: 9am-midnight

Tataki with saffron sweetbreads and Padron pepper

LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com 102 | M A RCH 2018

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listings | NIGHTLIFE Tel: 02 649 8353 www.thelivingroomatbangkok.com

Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar

A world-class wine bar that isn’t just all about wine. There's dozens of vinos to choose from, as well as some exciting options for the non-wine-inclined, while refined, rustic European cuisine is served up tapas-style for social dining. 2F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1133 Open daily: 11am-midnight www.riedelwinebarbkk.com

Riverside Grill

While the restaurant’s “healthy menu” offers great meal deals, enjoying cool crafted cocktails by the riverside is an equally pleasant attraction here. Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers 2, Charoen Krung Soi 30 Open daily: 4pm to 1am Tel: 02 266 0123 www.royalorchidsheraton.com

decades. It’s a place that just begs you to let your hair down and have fun. 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-midnight; closed for dinner on Sundays Tel: 02 476 0022 bangkok-riverside.anantara.com

Vogue Lounge

This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and former chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks. MahaNakhon Cube Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 001 0697 Open daily: 10am-late www.voguelounge.com

ROOFTOP SKY BAR Amorosa

Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant

This sophisticated (and elevated) drink spot and bistro offers tipplers both a novel-sized wine list, and a host of creative cocktails—many of which make use of in-house infused spirits. 37F, Pullman Hotel Bangkok G Open daily: 6pm-late Tel: 096 860 7990 www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk

TacoChela by Mikkeller

The combination of craft beer, fine spirits, and mouth-watering Mexican fare has made this taqueria an instant hit. Ari Samphan Soi 1 Open: Tue-Thu, 5pm-11pm, Fri-Sat, 5pm-midnight facebook.com/tacochelabkk

Trader Vic’s

The Bangkok branch of the world’s favourite Tiki Bar has been serving up potent tropical concoctions—with amazing riverside views—for over two bangkok101.com

A sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails, and a showstopper of a view over the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun in the distance. 4F, Arun Residence Hotel 36-38, Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd. Tel: 02 221 9158 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.arunresidence.com

Mojjo

This elegantly appointed sky-high, Latinflavoured cocktail joint offers guests exceptional views. Light meals are also on offer to accompany evening tipples. 32F, Compass SkyView Hotel 12, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 011 1111 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/mojjoloungebar

Moon Bar & Vertigo

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Hotel offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for a romantic rendezvous. 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar

Attitude

Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm-7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit 2, Sukhumvit Soi 57 Open daily: 5pm-2am Tel: 02 797 0000 www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

Attitude

Red Sky Bar

This sky-high drinking and dining spot boasts an inventive cocktail menu, delicious tapas-sized nibbles, and Instagram-worthy desserts, but the view overlooking the river is what really commands the attention here. 26F, Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 431 9100 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am minorhotels.com/en/avani/riverside-bangkok

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open Daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com M A RCH 2018 | 103

NIGHTLIFE | listings

CRU Champagne Bar

This high altitude hot spot is own by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com

Sky On 20

CLUB 8 on Eleven

A gastro bar with a modern industrial twist and a 2nd floor dance area, this nightlife venue offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes with a modern twist. 14, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 093 421 1991 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/8oneleven

Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best sound systems. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com

Zest Bar and Terrace

Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails, and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-1am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com

Zoom Sky Bar & Restaurant

Meet, sip, and dine overlooking the city at this well-designed venue, offering innovative culinary experiences and 360° cityscape views. 40F, Anantara Sathorn Hotel Bangkok 36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd. Tel: 02 210 9000 Open daily: 6pm-1am bangkok-sathorn.anantara.com 104 | M A RCH 2018

One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers who can’t get enough. 6F, 35, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 082 308 3246 Open daily: 9pm-2am www.facebook.com/levelsclub

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House— decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

Narz

Sky On 20

At this stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok. Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok

Levels

Club SX

Each section of this ultra-glam 1,000 sq.m club—Diamond Zone, Platinum Zone, Gold Zone, Cowboy Zone, Romantic Zone, Bar Zone, and VIP karaoke rooms—features a different theme and music. Hummer limousine service is also available. 6F, Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke Rd) Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 9pm-late www.sxdance.club

Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance crowd moving for over two decades with their wild party atmosphere. Perfect for groups who want to make it their playground for the night. 112, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 4805 Open daily: 9pm-3am www.narzclubbangkok.net

PUBS

The Firm

Within this upscale five-storey lounge, nightclub, and all-round watering hole, the 1st and 2nd floors are home to a restaurant and bar, offering continental pan-Pacific fare, while the 3rd floor—and the VIP access 4th and 5th floors—are all about the beat, with hip hop DJs performing regularly and mixologists performing their magic behind the bar. 10/4, Sukhumvit 33 Alley Open daily: 9pm-2am Tel: 065 880 0333 www.thefirmbangkok.com

The Australian

A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. 37, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 0800 Open daily: 9am-late www.theaustralianbkk.com bangkok101.com

The Drunken Leprechaun

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours, and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4, Sukhumvit 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

The Huntsman

English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a Sunday roast like no other. GF, The Landmark Hotel 138 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 254 0404 Open daily: 11:30am-2am www.landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub

The Royal Oak

An old British enclave serving up delicious food in substantial portions, draft beer, and weekly pub quizzes. There’s even a comedy club upstairs which is open every Friday. 595/10, Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 Tel: 02 662 1652 Open daily: 10am-1am www.royaloakthailand.com

LIVE MUSIC Apoteka

Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this lively spot has a casual old-school feel, indoor and outdoor seating, an awesome line-up of live music almost every day of the week, tasty bar snacks, and a drink selection including beer and custom craft cocktails. No dress code, no cover charge, and no pretention! 33/28, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 090 626 7655 Open daily: Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am, Fri, 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun, 3pm-midnight www.apotekabkk.com

Bamboo Bar

The Londoner

It's the only purpose-built British pub in Bangkok, and it’s also the oldest microbrewery in the city (it first opened in 1997, and was originally located on Sukhumvit Soi 33). In its current location the building itself is new, but once you enter the doors you feel as though you are in an old style ‘local’. 1178 Pattanakarn Rd. Tel: 02 022 8025 Open daily: Mon-Sat, 11am-midnight, Sun, 9am-midnight www.the-londoner.com

Mulligan’s Irish Bar

A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com

A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com

Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. GF, Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/maggiechoos

SoulBar

Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 945 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok

Spasso

A favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it’s a charming Italian restaurant. After hours, it transforms into a club and cocktail bar with live music every night of the week. 494 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 1234 Open daily: 12pm-2.30pm, 6:30pm-2.30am bangkok. grand.hyatt.com

Saxophone

A must-visit live music joint, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every single night of the week. 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 246 5472 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.saxophonepub.com

Black Cabin

Half the space at Wild & Co. restaurant is given over to this brick-walled pub which eschews the mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists. Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/blackcabinbar

Maggie Choo’s

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of

The Zuk Bar

The ideal place for aperitifs or after dinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view, and enjoy live jazz by Coco Rouzier, Wednesday to Saturday nights and during the weekly Sunday brunch. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sukhothai.com

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

id you know that Full Moon Brewworks, Phuket’s one and only microbrewery and restaurant, first opened the doors of their flagship brew pub almost eight years ago? Chances are you haven’t even heard of this humble brewery unless you’re a dedicated beer geek who has been actively following the craft beer scene in Thailand. Head brewmaster Sukij Thipatima—a Bangkok native originally—is the man behind the interesting blends created here, and his impressive Chalawan Pale Ale, which features a jaunty crocodile on the label (inspired by a tale from Thai folklore), has been making quite a name for itself this past year, appearing in many a distinguished specialty beer fridge in Bangkok and beyond. Equally impressive is his Chatri IPA—an award-winning brew that blends pilsner hops, rye, Australian hops, and some other specialty hops—which, inexplicably, has a Muay Thai koala bear on the label. For a more easy drinking brew try his refreshing Phuket Lager, which features a blend of German pilsner malt and Thai GABA rice from the King’s Royal Project. Another brew which utilizes rice is the lovely Andaman Dark Ale, inspired by classic British bitters, which combines German caramel malt, chocolate malt, pilsner malt, and Thai black sticky rice from the Sao-Hai paddy fields. Anyone who has already sampled any of Sukij’s delicious brews will no doubt want to make a pilgrimage to the actual brewery and restaurant while in Phuket. It’s located in Patong, on the ground level of the popular Jungceylon Shopping Center (181 Rat-U-Thit 200 Pee Rd), and is open daily from 11am till 11:30pm. All the beers under the Full Moon label are brewed on the premises—without filtering or pasteurization—and thanks to his eight stainless steel fermenters, Sukij is capable of producing approximately 500 litres of beer per month. The home-brewed beers available on tap tend to vary—both the Wild Honey Coffee Stout and the Bussaba Wit Ale were sold out during a recent visit—but that’s just testament to the freshness of the product being served. www.fullmoonbrewwork.com For more on Phuket see our travel feature, starting on page 46. 106 | M A RCH 2018

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