Bangkok101 Magazine May2018 by Talisman Media

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BEST OF BKK

Whatever your sport, you'll find it here

SPECIAL REPORT

2018 list of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants

PHOTO FEATURE

Sports & Tradition photo exhibit by AFP

TRAVEL FEATURE

Krabi and Trang, two idyllic getaway spots

Adventures in Food

Explore the website to learn about upcoming events and guest chef appearances. Come and discover a new culinary universe with us.

Publisher’s Letter

hailand is a nation with a rich history of sporting traditions, and probably the most famous export in this realm is Muay Thai, a martial arts discipline that dates back several hundred years, and was, essentially, developed as a form of close-combat that used the entire body as a weapon. These days it’s also enjoyed as a great sport for getting in shape, and in recent years it’s proven to be exceedingly popular with women (see pg. 17). Thailand has many other unique, and sometimes bizarre, sporting events and annual competitions as well (see pg. 26), but over the years it has come to embrace the sporting traditions of other lands, in particular English football (see pg. 23). In fact, name almost any sport—even ice hockey!—and you’ll find it being played somewhere in the greater Bangkok area (see pg. 14). Alongside our special cover feature we also have an in-depth, first-hand report on the 2018 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards, which took place at the end of March in Macau (see pg. 84). This year a record number of Bangkok fine dining establishments made it into the winner’s circle, and we congratulate them all. And speaking of records, Gaggan restaurant claimed the number one spot for the 4th year in a row. A truly astounding feat! Finally, we come to our travel feature, which this month focuses on two idyllic destinations in the south—Krabi and Trang (see pg. 40). These provinces not only border each other, they also border the Andaman Sea, and as such share a wealth of white sand beaches, coral-ringed islands, and stunning limestone karst formations between them. Sporty types can find here some of the best rock climbing, scuba diving, and hiking spots in the Kingdom, while more sedate travelers can just flop out on the beach. All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101. Enjoy. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence info@talisman.asia. Publisher

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

M AY 2 0 1 8 | 5

CONTENTS 16

CITY PULSE 10

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

My Bangkok Meet Alexander Martin, founder of the Don Kuson Community Bike Shop

Best of BKK This town has sports for all sorts—from boxing and basketball, to rugby and rock climbing.

Out & About A guide to billiards in Bangkok

Made in Thailand A rundown of some of Thailand’s one-of-a-kind sporting events

Weekend Wanderer Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, Bangkok Golf Resort & Spa; X2 Vibe Buriram Hotel

TRAVEL

SNAPSHOTS

Krabi 101 In this special 18-page travel destination feature we look at Krabi—from the idyllic island beachfronts to rugged jungle interior

Focus on Krabi Krabi Town; Ao Nang; Rock climbing at Railay Beach; Island sightseeing

See & Do Krabi Phi Phi island, Cave kayaking; Saltwater river; Emerald pool; Hot springs

Live Like a Local Koh Klang; Laem Sok

Made in Thailand Croman Beer brings craft brewing to Krabi province

Where to Stay Sengjan Garden; GLOW Ao Nang Krabi

Working up a sweat in Bangkok is easy, especially with the myriad of sportsrelated activities available. Muay Thai boxing in particular is a popular sports activity these days, and it has proven to be just as much a “hit” with men as women— as it’s also an incredibly effective full body workout (see pg. 17).

Focus on Koh Lanta A charming island of sunsets, sandbanks, sea gypsies… and Swedes!

Trang 101 In this special 6-page travel destination feature we look at Trang—a quiet province with a wealth of natural and historic wonder

Photo By Happy Author/Shutterstock

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand

Now New Next Kenro Izu: Seduced by the impermanence of light and life

Bizarre Thailand Guest columnist Alasdair McLeod delves into the bizarre world of Bitcoin in Bangkok

Joe’s Bangkok The unique history of the newly restored Loha Prasat and the Monastery of the Royal Niece

Very Thai Shops on wheels keep the economy moving – Part 1

38 Heritage Modern day Sathorn Road has a history that spans over a century

On the cover

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | M AY 2 0 1 8

bangkok101.com

UMBERTO BOMBANA from Michelin-starred, 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA

The second chef to appear in 2018 MAESTROS DELLA SCALA, the quarterly renowned chef series at La Scala restaurant on 23-24 May 2018 Hailed as “The King of White Trufﬂes”, Chef Umberto Bombana’s talent has taken him around the world, eventually arriving in Hong Kong in 1993 to open Toscana. In 2008, he opened 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, which was awarded two Michelin stars after only 11 months of opening. A third star was awarded in 2012, making 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana the only Italian restaurant outside of Italy with this honour. The restaurant is currently No.13 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018. Venue: La Scala, The Sukhothai Bangkok Schedule: 23rd May 2018 Lunch & Dinner 6-course Set Menu 24th May 2018 Dinner 6-course Set Menu Price to be conﬁrmed

RSVP 02 344 8888 | Promotions@sukhothai.com

CONTENTS ART & CULTURE 66

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

Museum Spotlight Historic Dusit Zoo itself turns out to be an “endangered species”

Special Report The annual La Fête festival of French culture goes into high gear this month

Cinema Scope This month’s film news and screenings

Photo Feature The Alliance Française Bangkok hosts a special AFP press photo exhibition entitled ‘Sport & Tradition’

FOOD & DRINK 80

Food & Drink Updates

Afternoon Tea Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners

Hot Plates Mihara Tofuten

Special Report Winners, losers, and gourmet gossip were all part of the 2018 Asia 50 Best Restaurant List gala awards presentation in Macau

88 Reviews At-Ta-Rote; The House on Sathorn; Embassy Room; The Chocolate Boutique 92

Breaking Bread with Chef Deepanker ‘DK’ Khosla from Haoma

106

Eat Like Nym Yai Hong Khanom Thai

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE 100

Nightlife Updates

102

Bar Reviews CRU Champange Bar; Pirate Saloon; Character Whisky & Cigar Bar

105

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

SIGNING OFF 110

Did You Know?... Not only is “axe throwing” a sport, but Bangkok has a bar dedicated to it!

ART DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTING

Narong Srisaiya

PUBLISHED BY

PHOTOGRAPHERS

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Thanakrit Skulchartchai

Zrs Gamboa, Harrison Martin, Julia Offenberger

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120

PUBLISHER

STRATEGISTS

GENERAL MANAGER

Mason Florence

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

SALES MANAGER

Parinya Krit-Hat

Jim Algie, Luc Citrinot, Philip Cornwell-Smith, Kelly Harvey, Micaela Marini Higgs, Reena Karim, Robin Westley Martin, Alasdair McLeod, Julia Offenberger, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Craig Sauers, Tom Vitayakul

Ornuma Promsrikaew

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond

MANAGING EDITOR

Bruce Scott EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings FOOD EDITOR

David J. Constable

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Roj Ruangkereunya

SALES EXECUTIVE

Songkwan Udomdech DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Chakkrit Rattanapan

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

EVENT & SPECIAL PROJECTS

Falida Angkhuro Anansit Sangsawang

Wasin Banjerdtanakul

Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

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CITY PULSE | metro beat

MAY’S HOTTEST TICKETS May 1

English-born, singer-songwriter Jake Bugg is set to perform an exclusive and intimate acoustic concert this month at the Scala Cinema (Rama I Rd), the city’s iconic historic movie theatre at Siam Square. Having first burst onto the music scene as a 17-year-old prodigy in 2011, this 24-year-old talent now has four highly-acclaimed albums to his name. Tickets for the show are priced at B2,600. www.thaiticketmajor.com

THAI HOLIDAYS May 1, 14, 29

There are two public holidays in Thailand in May, starting with Labour Day (also known as May Day) on the first of the month. It’s a public holiday to commemorate the workers of the world, celebrated by giving everyone the day off. The next public holiday is on May 29th with the celebration of Visakha Bucha—which commemorates the three major events in the life of Buddha: his birth, his enlightenment, and his death. May is also the time of the annual Royal Ploughing Festival, or ‘Farmer’s Day’, celebrated on May 14th, which is an ancient royal rite to mark the traditional beginning of the rice growing season (however, it’s a government holiday only).

May 4-26

Directed by Jaime Zúñiga and starring James Laver, the “one woman” play I Am My Own Wife is based on the captivating true life story of Charlotte von Mahlsdorf who, living as a transvestite, survived two of the most repressive regimes of the 20th century—the Nazis and the East German Communists. The production opens on Friday May 4th and will run every Friday and Saturday evening throughout this month at Peel The Limelight (2, Sukhumvit Soi 23). Tickets are B700 (students B500) and all shows start at 8pm. www.peelthelimelight.com

May 7

As part of his massive 2018 World Tour, UK superstar singer and actor Harry Styles—a former member of the boy band One Direction—will grace the stage at Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani) for one night only. Tickets to see this chart-topping charmer range in price from B2,040 to B5,040, while special VIP packages range in price from B10,540 to B18,040. Showtime is 8:30pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com

MEXICAN FEST

May 9

The vibe will definitely be “old school” when legendary American hip-hop artist Ja Rule touches down in Bangkok for an intimate gig at Sugar Club (37, Sukhumvit Soi 11). Born in Hollis, Queens, the rapper made his debut in 1999 with the single “Holla Holla”, and went on to release many best-selling albums, collaborating over time with the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Ashanti, and R. Kelly. Tickets for this 20+ event are just B875, and will no doubt sell out fast! www.ticketmelon.com

May 5

The celebration known as Cinco de Mayo is a raucous annual tradition that commemorates Mexico’s unlikely victory over French forces at the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862—and it’s reason enough to party like mad! This year, the team at Mexicano restaurant are putting on a fabulous fiesta, with a live Latino band and DJ to keep the salsa beats going, plus amazing food prepared by Chef Carlos Bravo and plenty of beverage specials on margaritas, sangria, mojitos, and local beers! The party runs from 8pm till late, in the grand Ballroom II of the Rembrandt Hotel (19, Sukhumvit Soi 18). For more info, or to book a table, call 02 261 7100. www.rembrandtbkk.com 1 0 | M AY 2 0 1 8

May 23

This month, the ‘Singha Light Live Series’ presents Rhye, performing at Voice Space (BBD Building, Viphavdi Rd). The group originally consisted of just Canadian electronic musician Milosh (pictured), alongside Danish instrumentalist Robin Hannibal, and their debut album, Woman—released in 2013—caught the attention of influential music critics. Now a full-fledged band, the group combines heartbreaking vocals with a mosaic of emotive piano keys, physical percussion, and buzzing, atmospheric analog synths. Tickets at the door are priced at B2,000 and the gate opens at 7pm. www.ticketmelon.com bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

BANGKOK ARTS & MUSIC MONTH May 6, 15, 20

Iron & Wine

Local promoters Medium Rare, Moonbeats Asia, Live Events Group, and Symmetry Entertainment are the forces behind the Bangkok Arts & Music Month (BAMM), which consists of a series of indie rock concerts taking place at different venues across the city. The festival got underway in mid-April, but it continues on into May with three great gigs, the first of which welcomes French instrumentalist/singer FKJ who performs on the 6th at Moonstar Studio (Ladprao Soi 80). Then, on the 15th, celebrated American indie-folk singer-songwriter Samuel Ervin Beam—better known by his stage and recording name Iron & Wine—takes over the stage at Moonstar Studio. Tickets for both shows start at B1,790. The venue for the third gig, on May 20th, is the 5th floor Helix Garden at EmQuartier, and the band is Texas three-piece rockers Khruangbin. The band’s Thai name reflects their sound, which blends 70s era Thai funk, psychedelia, and surf rock. This not-to-be-missed show begins at 9pm, and tickets start at B990. www.ticketmelon.com/live/bammbkk

FRENCH CULTURAL FESTIVAL May 5

Four fiesty French a cappella vocal musicians—known individually as Beatness, Rythmind, Wawad and MB14—come together this month to perform as Berywam, at the Alliance Française Bangkok (179 Wireless Rd). This awardwinning combo produce sounds with their voices simultaneously, creating a vivid impression of beatbox-style polyphony. The 7pm concert is presented as part of the ongoing La Fête French Cultural Expo, and tickets are B250 (B150 for students and Alliance Française members). In addition, Berywam will also be hosting a 2pm workshop at the Alliance Française on Sunday May 6th. For more details about this month’s La Fête programming, see our special feature on pg. 72. www.french-highlights.com

OUT-OF-TOWN ENTERTAINMENT Nina Van Horn

May 18-19

This year’s Hua Hin International Jazz Festival, presented by Hitman Company Ltd. in collaboration with Hua Hin Municipality and Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), will be held at Hua Hin beach. With the rhythm of the waves adding to the sounds of world-class jazz artists, this two-day free festival will delight music fans of all ages. Artists scheduled to perform include: French vocalist Nina Van Horn; American jazz pianist John di Martino; Brazil’s Ricardo Vogt and Veronica Nunes; Simone Kopmajer from Austria; Shakatak from the UK; Dimension from Japan; and local favourites Koh Saxman & The Sound of Siam. In addition to the main stage there will also be Open Stage for local artists, and a special jazz workshop on May 19th at the Beer House pub at the Hilton Hua Hin hotel. For full details about this year’s line-up check the official website at: www.huahininterjazz.com. bangkok101.com

Attacchi di Pane

ITALIAN FEST May 16

The Music Hall at Chulalongkorn University (254 Phayathai Rd) hosts a very special recital concert by internationally acclaimed violinist Davide Alogna, accompanied by pianist Leonora Armellini. Start time is 7pm and admission is free.

May 24-25

Jazz fans have two chances to catch T-Riot, an energetic rock-solid groove trio featuring two members from Berardi Jazz Connection—drummer Francesco Lomagistro and bassist Camillo Pace—alongside pianist Pietro Vincenti from Quintetto X. The band performs first at The Music Hall at Chulalongkorn University (254 Phayathai Rd) on May 24th at 7pm (admission is free), followed by an 8:30pm gig on May 25th at the Bamboo Bar at the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok hotel (48 Oriental Ave), as part of the ‘In the Framework of Italian Jazz Stars’ series.

May 29

The talented Patrizia Salvatori and the E.sperimenti GDO Dance Company present an evening of modern dance with a piece entitled Attacchi di Pane, performed at the Small Hall of the Thailand Cultural Centre (14 Thanon Walthana Tham). Using “bread” as a metaphorical main character, this show brings to the stage an ancient theme, but one that is very current—mankind’s hunger for a place in society. Showtime is 7pm and admission is free. For more about upcoming Italian Festival in Thailand 2018 events visit facebook.com/italianfestivalthailand M AY 2 0 1 8 | 1 1

CITY PULSE | metro beat

MAY 23-24: CHEF UMBERTO BOMBANA AT THE SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK

Epicurean Event

Chef Umberto Bombana will be in Bangkok this month as part of The Sukhothai Bangkok’s Maestros della Scala guest chef series

n the second installment of The Sukhothai Bangkok’s Maestros della Scala guest chef series, in cooperation with Gastronauts Asia, the La Scala restaurant welcomes Chef Umberto Bombana from the three-Michelin starred 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Hong Kong (the only Italian restaurant outside of Italy to hold three stars). In March of this year Chef Cristina Bowerman from the Michelin-rated Glass Hostaria, Rome, was in Bangkok for the launch of the Maestros della Scala series, cooking with La Scala’s resident Executive Chef David Tambarini. This month, Chef Bombana joins the

kitchen team and will cook a six-course set lunch and dinner on May 23rd, followed by a six-course dinner on the 24th. Chef Bombana—whose 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana was also awarded the No.13 spot on this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna—is globally recognized for his innovative approach to Italian cuisine and has been hailed as the “King of White Truffles”. He was even appointed as a ‘Worldwide Ambassador of the White Truffle’ by the Piedmontese Regional Enoteca Cavour. In true Bombana fashion, guests can expect a generous shaving of Italian truffles in a meal that will focus on the qualities and lifestyle of great Italian dining. Wines will be paired by 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana’s General Manager and award-winning sommelier Marino Braccu, with sparkling and still water supplied by San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna; chosen for their ability to combine and pair perfectly with high-quality foods. As one of the world’s most celebrated Italian chefs, Chef Bombana has established his signature style across Asia and the world. Arriving in Hong Kong in 1993, he opened Toscana restaurant, establishing himself as a culinary force. In 2008, he opened 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana and within 11 months was awarded two-Michelin stars (a third star was awarded in 2012). Last year, the Italian Republic (OMRI, Ordine al Merito della Repubblica Italiana) bestowed the Order of Merit on Chef Bombana, the country’s highestranking award. To book a table for Chef Umberto Bombana’s Maestros della Scala guest chef series, call 02 344 8888 or email: promotions@sukhothai.com. For more information, visit: www. sukhothai.com/bangkok/en/ offers.

MAESTROS DELLA SCALA GUEST CHEF SERIES The Sukhothai Bangkok’s La Scala restaurant has been a pioneer in welcoming some of the world’s most renowned chefs for over a decade. Having recently re-opened, the introduction of their Maestros della Scala guest chef series, in cooperation with Gastronauts Asia, will see four Italian chefs invited to Bangkok to cook and promote

1 2 | M AY 2 0 1 8

their cuisine, further cementing the restaurant’s reputation as one of Asia’s leading and most celebrated Italian restaurants. These special chef appearances, pop-up events, and rare, one-of-a-kind dining experiences, will continue throughout the year, with renowned chefs Luca Fantin and Pino Cuttaia expected later in the year.

bangkok101.com

my bangkok | CITY PULSE

Alexander Martin Tell us about yourself. Ok, so I’m originally from Omaha, Nebraska. I went to a community college there and got a degree in commercial photography. I didn’t use it though. Instead I spent years hitchhiking around North America, Western Europe, and Japan. After that got old I enlisted in the US Navy. That took me to Seattle, where I got introduced to community bike shop culture. I built my first bike at the Bikery in 2009. What brought you to Thailand? I first came to Thailand in 2012 via Port Laem Chabang aboard the USS Abraham Lincoln. While all the sailors were being bussed down to Pattaya, a friend and I paid way too much for a taxi and got dropped off in front of the State Tower. We spent most of that day walking around Bang Rak and I fell in love with the city then. I was already shopping around for schools to enroll in when my contract came up with the Navy, and I ended up back in Bangkok the following August to study Entrepreneurship at Bangkok University International. I graduated in May of last year. What exactly is the Don Kuson Community Bike Shop? It’s basically an all-volunteer run hole in the wall with tools, and some guys there to show you how to use them to fix your bike. It’s somewhere in between a DIY and a full service shop. We work with people if they need us and we let you do your own thing if you feel you know what you’re doing. We don’t charge to use the space but we do ask for donations for parts and refurbished bikes. But we don’t turn anyone away who can’t pay. You’ll find a good mix of expats, local kids, and people that are undertaking epic bike trips. When I first moved to Bangkok I tried to find a bike shop like I was used to back home, but there wasn’t one. So I created my own. I got access bangkok101.com

Photo by Harrison Martin

Founder of Don Kuson Community Bike Shop

to some affordable storefront space on Soi Don Kuson, then crowdfunded and got 1,500 dollars—and that was enough to get some basic tools and workbenches. Would you say Bangkok is a good or bad place for bike riders? Personally I love riding in the city. Maybe it’s not as ideal as riding in Amsterdam, but it’s heaps better than riding in the American Midwest. Bangkok is flat, and drivers are used to slow moving vehicles (or parked ones) on the left hand side. So I definitely don’t feel the fear I do cycling in many other cities. I enjoy riding in the street with cars and grabbing onto a tuk tuk for a little boost in speed. However, the bike trails here aren’t practical ways to move throughout the city, they’re purely recreational. That needs to change. Agreed. Is that why commuter cyclists seem to still be relatively rare? It’s not as common of a sight as in other cities, but there’s actually a group of embassy workers that bike every morning from Chaengwattana to Wireless Road. They call themselves “The Chaeng Gang”. And I used to bike 12 km to university every day.

What’s the ideal bike for riding in this city? The ideal bike is the one you feel the most comfortable on. The one that motivates you to ride. If it’s a folding bike you can bring on the train, that’s awesome. If you need a fast road bike, cool. I’m happy to roll around the hood on a big cargo bike. I have a two-speed road bike that’s a lot of fun to ride, but I find myself riding a hardtail touring bike with a cargo rack most of the time. That said, I spent my first couple of years here riding a fixed gear. Where are some places in Bangkok where you like to cycle? I love going out to check on the path in Bang Mod, I really like the BMX park in Wareepirom Park, and of course Bang Krachao is always great. But my favourite place to take people who are visiting is through the small sois in Bang Kho Laem. In this city so many small streets are dead ends, but Bang Kho Laem has so many through sois you can wind around for hours. I like to organize a group ride through the area a few times a year. With all the recent bad air warnings, what should a cyclist do? It’s hard to avoid. Best thing to do is wear a mask I guess, avoid rush hour, and take side streets when possible. What does the future hold? We’re working on getting funding to set up as a non-profit so we can work with other organizations to make a greater impact. Right now we’re operating as an informal community project. But even if we stay just a community project our goal is getting more bikes on the road, and providing access to tools and knowledge to empower cyclists. And with the help of other community organizers, we plan to expand our reach to the greater Bangkok communities. interview by Bruce Scott www.facebook.com/donkusoncbs M AY 2 0 1 8 | 1 3

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Let’s Get Physical

Taking a deep dive into Bangkok’s beguiling wide world of sports By Craig Sauers

Urban Playground

n estimated 2.2 million foreigners have come from practically every corner of the planet to live in Thailand, with a majority of them residing in Bangkok. This city’s expats therefore represent a wide world of tastes, and over the years Bangkok has shown nothing less than an effusive eagerness to adopt new ideas from them—from American-style Country & Westernthemed bars, to Japan’s most famous contribution… the karaoke bar! Thus it should come as no shock that an equally “wide world of sports” has taken root here. And while it’s no surprise that conventional sports such as football, golf, and tennis are popular pastimes, there are a number of facilities and clubs that cater to some surprisingly obscure sporting activities as well.

INDOOR ROCK CLIMBING: Thailand has long been an outstanding outdoor rock climbing destination (see pg. 43), but the whole country still sees new developments each year in the arena of indoor rock climbing. In Bangkok, the most longstanding urban climbing spot is The Racquet Club, which houses the recently renovated Urban Playground. The club offers a couple of courses for beginners, as well as some more advanced bouldering routes laid out each week, set across 650 sq.m of space. 1 4 | M AY 2 0 1 8

Members to The Racquet Club have access to the climbing zone, but day passes are also available for non-members (B475 weekday/B575 weekend). But The Racquet Club isn’t the only game in town anymore. Rock Domain, off Bangna-Trad Road, offers even more space—1,100 sq.m in fact—and over 100 bouldering routes. You can also enrol in group or private sessions. Day passes cost B400 for adults, and monthly and yearly passes are also available at pretty solid discounts (for example, B21,500 for a year-long pass). The newest player on Bangkok’s climbing scene is the sprawling branch of international chain Climb Central. Catering to western suburbanites, the Climb Central outlet on Kalpapruek Road is currently the biggest indoor climbing space in Thailand. It has over 1,000 metres of wall space, featuring a range of overhangs across its 50-plus climbing lanes. Rates are B600 for adult walk-ins, and B500 for kids.

WAKEBOARDING: Since it’s a fine way to actively cool off in the sweltering city heat, wakeboarding has— understandably—become increasingly popular among both locals and expats. Taco Lake near Suvarnabhumi Airport, has been offering cable-led wakeboarding since the 1980s. As Thailand’s first wake park it still draws in crowds with bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Wakeboarding at Thai Wake Park

Wakeboarding at Zanook

its abundant space and beginner-friendly rides. Not to mention, a day on the water will only set you back B500. Nowadays, there are two other wakeboarding parks within spitting distance of the city centre (proverbially speaking). Located in Lumlukka, Pathum Thani, the Thai Wake Park is probably the best known, in part because the park often hosts Sunday parties with DJ sets as well as other events. Experienced wakeboarders will no doubt enjoy the many features set within the lake: handrails, triple pipes, wall rides, and so much more. The park also caters to beginners and private parties (B740 all-day pass on weekdays/B920 all-day pass on weekends). To add to the party atmosphere there are restaurants and bars onsite, as well as a 40-room hotel just one minute from the dock.

help of friends, including Wansit ‘Peem’ Chatikavanij. In 2009, the two helped to co-found the non-profit Thailand Lacrosse Association, the official representative of Thailand in the Federation of International Lacrosse. Payu and Peem have championed the sport across Southeast Asia, organizing matches against newfound clubs in

WATER SPORTS: Located just a 25 minutes’ drive

from downtown Bangkok (on a good day, of course), Zanook offers a full range of water-based activities for every level. That includes water skiing, wakeboarding, and stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) across its cable park, aqua park, and separate SUP zone. There’s also plenty of refreshments on site, which, you’ll find, are quite welcome after your workout on the water. You don’t have to leave town to get wet and wild, though. Flow House at A-Square, on Sukhumvit Soi 26, offers flowboarding—a kind of controlled stationary surfing—with lessons and rides available by the hour (B750 p/hr, or B5,000/B9,000/B12,000 for 10, 20, and 30 hour packages). If you’re terrible at flowboarding or simply into spectator sports, you can always just get a tasty craft beer at Changwon Express on the 2nd floor and critique the more experienced riders as they perform tricks you could only dream of doing in the pool below.

LACROSSE: Part of the appeal of Bangkok for many

expats, in particular, is the vast and varied surprises it contains. Take lacrosse, for example. That’s not exactly the first sport that comes to mind when you think of international league, but it’s not only in Bangkok—the sport is also doing great things for the city. After studying in lacrosse capital Massachusets, Prantarit ‘Payu’ Nerngchamnong brought the sport to Thailand with the bangkok101.com

Thailand Lacrosse Association Singapore and Hong Kong. Bangkok’s lacrosse pioneers have launched development clinics at the university level, hosted tournaments in Phuket, organized games for disabled students at Ramkhamhaeng’s National Stadium, and brought the sport to kids who live in the Khlong Toei slums. The players practice weekly at Arena 10 on Thong Lor Soi 10, and plays friendlies at Yamaha Stadium at Impact Arena. Pay a visit www.thailandlacrosse.org for more information.

BASEBALL: Despite there being sizable American,

Japanese, and Korean populations in Bangkok, baseball remains, at best, a fringe sport in Thailand. While the International School of Bangkok (ISB) runs baseball and softball leagues for kids aged 4-18, and the Bangkok International Softball League offers beer-league play at Queen Sirikit Park in Pathum Thani, those who just want to take some hacks can turn to the Bangkok Batting Cages (located at the tail end of Sukhumvit Soi 31). Open seven M AY 2 0 1 8 | 1 5

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Photo by Zrs Gamboa

Baseball batting cages

Bangkok Roller Derby

Ultimate Frisbee

Gaelic Football and Hurling Club

days a week, from 10:30am until 9:30pm, the centre offers 25 pitches for just B100, or all-you-can-bat for B5,000. There are five cages, each of which slings fastballs at a different velocity. The batting cage might be the heathiest way to blow off steam when the city is driving you nuts.

Sunday at 6pm at the Roller Dome in The Emporium shopping mall (BTS Phrom Phong). Like the Hash House Harriers, players are given a nickname when they join the league (eg: Jean Claude Van Slam, the current coach of the Bangkok team). In 2017, the league hosted its first international event, the ‘Siam Skate-tacular’, so clearly the sport is growing here. The best part is this group is open to anyone; drop in whenever you want to skate. To find out more visit bangkokrollerderby.weebly.com for more information.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE: If you want an exciting

non-contact team game, requiring razor sharp throwing skills and immense stamina and agility, look no further than ultimate Frisbee. It’s played on grassy fields—a rarity in this town—and if you’re keen to try it the Bangkok Soi Dawgz play pick-up games every Sunday from 3:30pm to 6:30pm at the MRT headquarters off Rama IX Road. About 40 or so enthusiasts show up each weekend, from many different countries and of all ages (from teens to seniors), and the only equipment needed is cleats, or football boots. Pickup game contributions are B100 per player, but it’s free for first timers. In addition, for the past 18 years the Soi Dawgz have been hosting an annual tournament in which about 200 players, from about 25 countries, travel to Bangkok (in January or February) to play in mixed teams against one another. To find out more about the league, visit www.bangkokultimate.com.

ROLLER DERBY: Although the sport has existed

for over 80 years, roller derby caught fire in the past 10 years as an alternative—and thoroughly exciting—pointsbased contact sport. The mixed-gender Bangkok Roller Derby has been going strong since 2013, gathering every

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GAELIC FOOTBALL: Naturally, there’s a Gaelic

football and hurling club in Bangkok…. I mean, why wouldn’t there be a Gaelic sports club here? The Thai GAA chapter launched in 2007, and every year the group hosts its own Gaelic games. This year, they were held within the leafy expanses of Bangkok Patana School. Meanwhile, every Tuesday the group meets for training at NIST International School on Sukhumvit Soi 15, as well as cardio sessions at National Stadium on Thursdays. To find out more visit www.thailandgaa.com. From water polo, to indoor volleyball, and even to ice hockey (yes we have that too!), whatever your favourite sport may be in your home country there’s a good chance you can keep playing it when you’re in Bangkok. Or, you can take the plunge and try something new. Self-exploration in Bangkok has never been easier—or better for you. bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Muay Thai & Me A fascinating history of ancient traditions… and the ultimate full-body workout! Words and photos by Julia Offenberger

Demanding workouts at the Mankong Phranai Muay Thai gym

“

ab! Punch! One, two, ten times!” my trainer shouts at me. As hard and fast as I can, I hit the punching mitts held up in front of me, while sweat is flowing down my forehead and into my eyes, making them burn. Another fast succession of instructions follows—knee, uppercut, right elbow, left elbow, front kick! I stop to catch my breath and, inhaling deeply, hear fragments of Survivor’s famous hit song “Eye of the Tiger” blaring from the speakers in the background. Another deep breath. Gritting my teeth, I try to channel my last ounce of strength and energy and draw back my right leg for one final round kick before hurrying out of the ring to fuel my body with cold water and wipe the sweat off my face. Welcome to your average Muay Thai kickboxing class. Passed down from one generation to another, Muay Thai has been part of Thailand’s cultural heritage for centuries. It’s often referred to as the “Art of Eight Limbs”, as the entire body is used as a weapon and shield with eight points of contact—including hands, shins, knees and elbows. Originally practiced as a method of close-quarter combat during war, it soon grew to be so popular among bangkok101.com

the public that it became Thailand’s national sport, with bouts arranged during festivals and the best fighters appointed as royal guards. Folklore is a crucial element of Muay Thai, and one of the most popular heroes in the many legends is Nai Khanom Tom. After being captured as a prisoner by the Burmese during the fall of Ayutthaya, the Burmese king forced Nai Khanom Tom to fight several of his best Burmese boxers. He subsequently defeated 10 without a break. Acknowledging his skills, the warrior was allowed to return to Siam, where he became known as the father of Muay Thai. The sport became first known among foreigners as “Siam Boxing” during WWI. Traditionally a no-holdsbarred affair, with little to no rules, it wasn’t until the 1920s that boxing gloves replaced cotton yarn hand wraps, and open courtyards gave way to professional boxing rings. After WWII, major stadiums were built and formal rules and regulations, including time limits and weight classes, were created—in turn making it a safe international ring sport for the 20th century. In 2016, M AY 2 0 1 8 | 1 7

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Hand protection

Pre-match Wai Kru ceremony

Kwan and Ann doing some training

Muay Thai was granted provisional recognition as an Olympic sport and has been added to the programme of the upcoming 2020 games in Tokyo. If you don’t want to wait for the Olympics, one of your best bets to witness a real Muay Thai fight in Bangkok is at Rajadamnern Stadium (Rajadamnern Nok Rd). On four nights a week— Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday– several fights take place. The matches start from 6:30pm, with ticket prices ranging from B1,000 to B2,000. Alternatively, a bit further out of town, Lumpinee Stadium (6 Ram Intra Rd) holds fights on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday. Whether you’re a boxing enthusiast or not, witnessing this cultural spectacle is an experience like no other. Many of the century-old traditions have remained a part of modern Muay Thai, including the ritualistic dances performed by the fighters before the bout. The dances are composed of two parts—the wai kru and the ram muay— with the former being a way to pay respect to the fighter’s teachers, the sport itself, and the country. By circling the ring three times before kneeling and bowing a further three times, the fighter honours the Gods, asking for an honourable fight and protection for themselves and their opponents. By contrast the ram muay is either a simple or complex combination of movements, demonstrating the fighter’s control and style, and is unique to each gym, region, and/or instructor the fighter represents. While demonstrating this pre-fight ritual, the fighters wear headbands known as mongkols and armbands called prajioud for spiritual strength and protection.

Both these rituals, and the fights themselves, are usually accompanied by traditional music—sarama and khaek chao sen—using instruments that include cymbals, a Javanese oboe, and an Indian drum. And although it’s illegal nationwide, gambling is permitted at officially registered Muay Thai boxing arenas, and adds to the experience at live fights as gamblers can be seen shouting and gesticulating wildly within the crowd. Ready to get in the ring yourself? Thanks to the city’s ever growing number of Muay Thai gyms—ranging from modern air-conditioned studios, to more basic and low-key rings—finding a place to suit your individual requirements isn’t difficult. However, in case you need any suggestions, check out Bangkok Fight Lab (137, Sukhumvit Soi 50) and Elite Boxing (Sukhumvit Soi 30/1), both of which offer Muay Thai training, in addition to other forms of martial art. Other recommended options include the Banchamek Gym (22, Phokaew 3, Yeak 19, Nawamin Rd), whose owner and head trainer is Muay Thai superstar Buakaw Banchamek, or Sor Vorapin Muay Thai Gym, a workout centre that also offers homestay programs as well as normal classes at its two Bangkok locations (13, Trok Kasab, Chakrabongse Rd; and 37/15, Suanpak Soi 1). Through friends, I first joined Mankong Phranai Muay Thai over a year ago and stayed on thanks to its friendly and laid-back atmosphere and welcoming community. Nestled amidst a handful of houses in a leafy courtyard down Sathorn Soi 1, the outdoor gym was opened by Arpinphan ‘Ann’ Ruengmanamongkol and her husband Suttipong ‘Kwan’ Raktaprachit just under three years ago.

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE After the couple invited former professional boxer and trainer Umat ‘Mas’ Mankong (left) to train them, it didn’t take long for the word to get out and the place grew into a business with over 200 regular customers and several other trainers. Regular classes are priced at B400, while for B4,000 you get 12 sessions (which are also possible to share). Hand wraps and gloves are also available, so all you need to bring are gym clothes, proper gym shoes, and the right attitude. Growing up in Nakhon Nayok City, about 100 km north east of Bangkok, Mas took up boxing as it provided a means to earn money for himself and his family. Starting at the tender age of seven, his arduous daily training included 5 km runs and several rounds of fighting (he would even double his workout two weeks before a fight). Before retiring at 30—the average career of a professional is usually somewhere between 15 to 20 years—he participated in nearly 200 fights. Paradoxically, however, many of my fellow boxers at the gym—myself included—never intend to get into professional fighting, but instead started practicing the martial art solely for its numerous health benefits. When I asked Ann and Kwan why they started to practice Muay Thai in the first place, Ann’s reply was, “I just want to train to get fit. Also it’s fun and there’s lots of motivation from the trainer, not like running where you are alone and no one forces you to do it. I don’t want to fight, I just want to learn how to kick and punch. I also think boxing is the best cardio!”

Matches at Rajadamnern Stadium Besides killer cardio training, Muay Thai also improves your stamina and strengthens the entire body from the legs to the core and arms. A typical session begins with a half-hour warm-up mix of rope-skipping, interval running, shadow boxing, and stretching. That’s followed by four 4-minute rounds in the ring, and the session then ends with “cardio boxing” on the punching bag, and several dozen sit-ups. bangkok101.com

The health benefits also extend to a mental level, as the training promotes the brain to become more responsive; increasing focus and helping to control both the mind and emotions. On top of the obvious endorphin rush, boxing is also a perfect way to release stress and tension—a perfect antidote to counter the effects of a busy day in the office!

Fierce competition Another important reason why many people—in particular women—are drawn to the sport is its empowering element. As you get stronger and learn how to kick, punch, and defend yourself, it leaves you with a feeling of confidence. It’s no coincidence that 60-70 percent of Mankong Phranai’s customers are female. However, while there may be few limitations for women on an amateur level, professional female fighters still face many obstacles. A report last year by the BBC interviewed several professional female Muay Thai boxers, highlighting the challenges women face within the sport, including conservative views on family commitments, lack of sponsorship, and problematic spiritual beliefs (for instance, menstruation is seen as detrimental to the sport’s protective magic). Adding to those challenges is the fact that in both Lumpinee and Rajadamnern stadiums— two of the most prestigious in Thailand—women are not allowed to compete. Despite these obstacles, the future looks more positive as female Muay Thai fighters are now slowly becoming more accepted within the sport. With such a long and colourful history, Muay Thai has come a long way; from the battlefields of ancient Siam to state-of-the-art gyms all over the world—and soon the Olympic Games. Whether you want to get into shape, learn the moves, or enjoy a night out watching the professionals, Thailand’s national sport offers a little something for everybody. And as the sport continues to develop with its times, it is comforting to know that its inherent cultural tradition is still very much alive and kicking. M AY 2 0 1 8 | 1 9

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Top Flight Basketball

How a former pro and aspiring lawyer became the driving force behind youth basketball in Thailand By Craig Sauers

hat does a professional basketball player do when suddenly his offseason is all year long? For Ikenna Nwankwo, the answer to that question was waiting for him in Thailand. “I just came here to play at the end of my career,” says Nwankwo, a Houston native, NCAA national champion at UCLA, and 15-year veteran of professional basketball leagues around the world—from the NBA, to the Russian Basketball Super League, to his last stop on the Thailand Tigers in the ASEAN Basketball League. “I wanted to go to law school. I figured I’d take a year off here, see the beaches, see the islands, and refocus. It seemed like a good place to study.” Law school has been put on hold, however. Since 2010, Nwankwo has channelled his energy into Top Flight, a basketball academy for kids between the ages of 4 and 18, as well as a competitive junior league and a men’s league for “weekend warriors”, as he puts it. The

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men’s league plays at the New International School of Thailand (NIST) every weekend for six months a year. The academy, on the other hand, currently has over 1,000 kids in its programmes, most of them students at some of the 60-plus international schools in Bangkok. “We run the whole gambit at this point,” says Nwankwo. “We have after-school programmes, weekend programmes, and we have an elite basketball team that plays against the other top teams in Thailand.” The buy-in to Top Flight’s programmes has been incredible. What started with just five or ten kids practicing after school at NIST has grown by the year. Every summer, Top Flight brings its elite team to basketball camps in the US “just to give them the experience of summer basketball in the States”—the Kobe Bryant Academy, the Michael Jordan Flight School, a summer camp run by the UCLA basketball programme, and more. This year, the team will join the American AAU (Amateur Athletic Union) summer circuit bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

for the first time, playing against some of the best youth players in basketball-mad America. The academy has caught the attention of foreign basketball talent, too. Former players and high-level coaches from around the world—Russia, Ukraine, the US, Turkey—come to Thailand to work with Top Flight anywhere from months to years at a time. “They kind of find me now,” Nwankwo admits with a chuckle. “Some have other jobs, or play in the Thai league, or do this as a part-time summer gig while they’re in university. I feel very fortunate to have them.” Nwankwo credits technology for the growth of the sport in Thailand. Kids have better access to NBA games than ever, thanks to the internet. Unlike when Nwankwo was playing, basketball has become a global game. Steph Curry and LeBron James are household names these days. Even if NBA superstars have brought basketball to the collective Thai consciousness, Top Flight has played a major, hands-on role in spreading the bangkok101.com

game’s gospel among emerging generations, too. The talent level and interest has increased to the point that the NBA now runs a free, month-long clinic in Thailand. Each year the league sends stars like Taj Gibson and Will Barton to the Land of Smiles to nurture young players. “They select 10 kids from Thailand, 10 from the Philippines, 10 from Indonesia, and then those kids play games in China,” Nwankwo explains. Even the professional leagues have improved. Nwankwo believes Hi Tech and Mono—the top Thai teams—can compete against some of the best teams in the region. Nwankwo, who at six feet and eleven inches tall towers above nearly everyone in Thailand (Mono has a player who measures in at a vertiginous seven feet and five inches), still speaks with a sense of astonishment at the academy’s growth. “I could never have imagined in 2009 that I would be doing what I’m doing now,” he says. M AY 2 0 1 8 | 2 1

CITY PULSE | best of bkk His astonishment might stem from the winding road down which his life has led him. As a teenager in Houston, Nwankwo was one of the most sought-after recruits in the cut-throat world of elite high school basketball in the US. The year before he would graduate high school, he lacerated the ulnar nerve in his left hand in a bizarre accident; he could no longer extend his fingers to their full length, and he lost all feeling in his fourth and fifth digits. “Most of the schools recruiting me dropped out. UCLA stuck with me and honoured their commitment,” he says. “I had a great experience and loved [my time at UCLA], but I didn’t play very much.” The NBA didn’t come calling right away, either. After graduating, he bounced around the world, with pit stops in Venezuela, Russia, and Turkey before he got “a couple of cups of coffee” with the Miami Heat and his hometown Houston Rockets in the NBA. He followed where the best contracts led him—including stints with the famed L.A. Lakers and the Clevland Cavaliers—and played against some of the top talent in Europe and South America. Like many long-term expatriates, he began to discover that distinct sense of displacement from his home culture coupled with a curiosity for foreign ways of life. “I loved Venezuela and Turkey when I was there. In Turkey,” he recalls. “I played in a small town called Izmir. That was some pretty high-level basketball, like Euroleague-level.” In all the countries he played in over the course of his career, however, he never had a chance to stay in one place long enough to delve into the complexities of a

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foreign culture. “I’d go to games and practices, and then return to my apartment at the end of the day.” Thailand offered the element missing from the equation. Nwankwo joined the Thailand Tigers (the team no longer exists) in the inaugural season of the ABL. For him, it was a fitting way to cap a multicultural playing career before moving on to a life working in law in the US, a dream he had held onto since he was young. Basketball wouldn’t leave his life so easily, though. “All my teammates over the years would go into coaching or broadcasting or something else related to basketball [after they retired]. I always wanted to be the guy who did something different,” he says. “I never had a desire to coach.” That is, until he tried it. The varsity basketball coach at NIST was a fan of the ABL and had seen Nwankwo play. He asked Nwankwo to work with his team in his spare time. Soon the athletic director invited him to start an after-school basketball programme to help more than just the school’s team. It quickly became popular. They offered more days, then weekend programmes. In time, Nwankwo was hooked, even if his hanging around in Thailand was met with a sceptical eye back home. “For most players, [playing abroad] is just a cheque. A lot of my friends think I’m crazy for staying overseas all this time,” he admits. In a way, maybe he is. Competitive basketball is relatively new to Thailand. Nwankwo estimates the sport has only existed here on a professional level for 15 years. The city has few places for teams to practice or play organized games. There are courts in Benjasiri Park

bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

and concrete gyms under highway overpasses, but B Pro might offer the only well-equipped, air-conditioned courts in Bangkok outside of international schools. “This culture is a lot different from my own. It’s not as competitive. Here, it’s more about having a good time, the community aspect of it. It’s not as much about winning and losing,” says Nwankwo, who says he is still growing into his skin as a coach. “Ninety percent of the kids we work with don’t aspire to play in college or the NBA. Of course, we want to give everyone good fundamental training, but we specialize in character-building and personal development. For an eight-year-old, especially, you shouldn’t be stressing them out about winning the game—it’s about the lessons you learn from competing.” Watching Nwankwo and his fellow coaches work with younger players, it’s clear Top Flight is filling an important niche that had previously been ignored. As importantly, Nwankwo has found a calling, even if it’s one he may never have envisioned. “The younger kids—that’s my favourite group to work with,” he says. It shows. He frequently throws high-fives, bellows words of encouragement across the gym, and at the end of sessions names a player of the week to thunderous rounds of early-youth applause. Before leaving the school, he engages in conversation with students who race up to him to say hello and throw even more high-fives. While the future of programmes like Top Flight is rarely, if ever, certain in Thailand, Nwankwo hopes his academy can become a key development tool for the bangkok101.com

country outside of international schools and organized men’s leagues. “I feel like the next phase for Top Flight is sport development in Thailand. I would love to get contacts within the Thai Ministry of Sport, run programmes outside of Bangkok in some of the provinces, and develop basketball courts and sports facilities,” he says, adding that he dreams of launching an adult women’s league to rival the Top Flight men’s league, but there aren’t yet enough teams to form a league. He has also launched Top Flight in Hong Kong and hopes to connect the two academies with greater frequency. He is, as he puts it, excited by the prospects, but grounded by the circumstances. On a personal level, he still wants to go to law school. He discloses that he is particularly inspired by the ground-breaking discussions occurring around payfor-play and amateurism in American sports. For now, though, his work remains in Southeast Asia. “I’m proud of what we’ve done so far, helping the sport to develop the way it has,” he adds. The next stage might be obscured to him at the moment, but Nwankwo has never let life limit his opportunities before; it seems certain he won’t start doing that now. _______________________________________________ For more information about Top Flight, including how to get involved with any of its leagues or programmes, visit www.topflightbangkok.com. M AY 2 0 1 8 | 2 3

CITY PULSE | out & about

Gimme a Break!

Take a cue from us on where to find Bangkok’s best billiard bars By Robin Westley Martin

Ramy Halmy at The Sports Academy

am an enthusiastic pool player, and have been since I was a teenager. When I first arrived in Thailand I was amazed (and still am) by the country, but naturally, as a newbie, when I first went to the city’s bars my attention was centered on who was there rather than what was there. But when I chanced upon a bar in Nana Plaza called Woodstock I was over the moon to see an Americanstyle pool table sitting there in all its glory. I became a regular, as it was the only pool table in the city during the late 80’s. Skip forward a few years to the arrival in the city of Steven Rea, a semi-pro snooker player from the UK, without whom the story of dedicated pool bars in Bangkok could not even be told. By the time of his arrival in Bangkok there were a few more bars

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with pool tables, and Steve—to this day one of the best pool players in Thailand—was a regular at them. In the long-gone New Wave on Sukhumvit Soi 7, he had soon earnt quite a bit of money playing with the regulars, but he went to other places too (now all defunct), such as Flyers, where he arranged and set up competitions for the expats and locals before heading home. Back in England he was surprised to receive an email from Risto Karell, the Finnish owner of After Work on Sukhumvit Soi 19 (where Terminal 21 now sits). Risto had heard through the grapevine about Steve, and the email was to offer Steve a job as manager of his pool joint—an opportunity Steve jumped at with no hesitation, cos’ he had, in fact, become enamored with Thailand and loved the pool lifestyle.

From that time onwards Steve had a hand in nearly all the pool bars in Bangkok, either managing them, or as a partner. And it’s thanks to Steve that the billiards scene in Bangkok is as vibrant and healthy as it is today. The three best pool bars in Bangkok in 2018 are all on the lower Sukhumvit Road strip—The Sportsman on Soi 13, The Sports Academy, between Soi 13 and Soi 15, and Hustlers, in the basement of Times Square (opposite Robinson’s department store). The Sports Academy is owned by the aforementioned Risto Karell, and is run day-to-day by his managing partner, Egyptian national Ramy Halmy. Ramy told me his place features 7 full-size (9 ft) Brunswick Metro tables, and that they are reconditioned with new baize playing surfaces every seven to eight months. bangkok101.com

out & about | CITY PULSE

The Sportsman Bar; Vutthiphan ‘TT’ Kongkaket (inset) There are nine table girls, and the new ones learn quickly how to set up the tables for 8-, 9-, or 10-ball games. The bar has a busy 9-ball competition on Tuesdays, and league games on Mondays and Wednesdays, which are also well-attended. But there are always tables left free for walk-in customers, priced at B270 per hour, or B300 for three hours from 4pm to 7pm. All major sports can be seen on their large flat screen TVs, the kitchen serves local and international food, and local and imported ales are available at reasonable prices. Their signature drink is a ‘Fiso’ shot from Finland—vodka and a Fisherman’s Friend tablet, topped up with Sprite. Give it a go! Next up is Hustlers, owned by entrepreneur and businessman Graham Hill, with his managing partner Stuart Pettman (ex-pro snooker player), who are both Brits. They have 11 full-size Brunswick tables, which are refurbished every six months (or sooner should they require it). Meanwhile, the players are well-taken care of by the pretty set-up girls, with 9- and 10-ball competitions held every Sunday. The customers are primarily Asian, but there is a good mix of local ex-pats, too. Tables are hired at B270 per hour, but team players and VIP’s get a discount, and all regular customers receive free VIP membership. Major sporting events are shown on their large flat screen TVs, and food can be ordered from the nearby Tham Nan restaurant, who, I believe, serve bangkok101.com

up some of the best Thai food in the city (pizzas from outside can also be ordered and delivered). Chinesemade cues are available inside Hustlers, and just outside the front door Asia Billiards sells accessories and professional standard cues. The final place to look at is The Sportsman, on Soi 13. It’s owned and run by a group of Brits, including Joseph Veriato, who leaves the pool side of things in the hands of Vutthiphan ‘TT’ Kongkaket, a member of the Thai national team

(she’s probably Thailand’s best female pool player, and gives most guys a good run for their money, too). On the second level of the bar there are seven Brunswick and one Players table—more tables downstairs— which are serviced once a year. Seven or eight girls take care of the tables, and the customer mix is 50 percent Thai, 20 percent Brits, with the rest made up of people coming from just about anywhere in the world. The cost for a table is also B270 per hour, or B120 from 4pm to 7pm (and till 1am on Thursdays), and Mondays and Wednesdays are league days. As with the other bars mentioned, all major sports are shown at The Sportsman, but for special live broadcast sporting events they can open early or close late, depending on the time difference. The kitchen here is also just about the best of all the pool bars, with six chefs on two shifts making Thai and Western fare. There’s also local and international beers, plus Magners and Stowford Press ice cold ciders. Luxury! All the establishments mentioned here are friendly places, usually with good music playing in the background as well. So take a “cue” from me and give yourself a well-earned “break” at any of these fine billiard halls.

Lots of table action at Hustlers

LEAGUE MEMBERSHIP FEES If you want to join the bar’s team, the management first has to rate and handicap you as a player. The bar then pays for membership in the league (hence the team members pay nothing). At The Sportsman and The Sports Academy league membership is B1,500, while at Hustlers it’s B1,000.

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CITY PULSE | made in thailand

Curious Competitions Although many of Thailand’s sporting events might seem strange, they are all steeped in tradition By Robin Westley Martin

hailand has had a few different slogans given to it over the years, both by visitors (‘The Land of Smiles’) and Public Relations gurus (‘Amazing Thailand’). But even after having lived here for nearly 30 years, I am still sometimes surprised by what I see, or come across, on my travels throughout the Kingdom. I believe the most appropriate slogan for this country should be: ‘Thailand: Unique and Curious Charm’. And nowhere is this mercurial magnetism more apparent than in the country’s often unusual, but always colourful, sporting events, which are exciting and distinctive, and steeped in tradition. The first one to examine is Bullfighting. Not very unique, you might think, but this version is probably not what you’d expect. In Thailand it’s actually the bulls themselves fighting. As a sport, bullfighting has been popular in Southern Thailand for centuries, and it can be seen in most provinces, with a total of 28 stadiums across the region. However, you will see no flashy matadors or red capes, and no animals die, either, because this

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combat is purely bull-on-bull; part of an ancient tradition of combat in which the participants all live on to fight another day. The bullfight arenas on competition days are packed with the crowds loudly cheering on their chosen beast, as two combatants are brought head-to-head by their handlers. The bulls eye each other up, and proceed to lock foreheads rather than horns. There will be frenzied pushing and shoving, with head butts the most violent part of the proceedings. The victor is chosen when one bull feels he has had enough, and simply walks away from the encounter. In the present-day version of Thai bullfighting, the owner of a winning bull can get prize money of a million baht or more. Betting is not exactly legal in Thailand, but you are not likely to be prosecuted if you feel like having a little flutter, as laissez faire is the rule on bullfight days. If you’re in Hat Yai province, check out the bullfighting arena on the first Saturday of each month. Next up is Kite Fighting. There are two famous traditional Thai kites—Chula and Pakpao—with Chula bangkok101.com

made in thailand | CITY PULSE Laos, and Cambodia. They were essentially war boats, and the festivals of today portray this well. The traditional garb worn by the crews and the traditional instruments played—including the pounding of the war drums to keep the pace—will transport you back to ancient times. Annual longboat racing festivals in Thailand are something of an assault on the senses—a lively atmosphere of tumultuous noise and vibrant colours, combined with an army of vendors selling local produce. It’s easy to see why visitors and locals alike enjoy them so much. One of the best is held annually in Phitsanulok province, in midSeptember when the river tides are at their highest.

designated as the male kite, because of its larger size, and the smaller Pakpao as the female. The “fighting ground” is divided into two halves, each about 100 metres, which are separated by a line strung at about head height. The Pakpao teams always take the upwind part of the field, while the Chula teams take the downwind end. The object of the game is for the Chula team to try and drag the Pakpao down into their half of the playing field by using spurs attached to their control lines, and for the more agile Pakpao team to attempt to ensnare a Chula kite with a loop attached to its line, also attempting to drag it down into their half of the playing field. Each year the Thailand International Kite Festival is held towards the end of March, usually at the Royal Thai Army’s non- commissioned officers school (in Hua Hin, about three hours’ drive from Bangkok). Many other activities take place during this event, and about 20 teams from different countries are also there to show off their kite-flying skills.

With Thailand’s many lakes, rivers, and abundant ocean access, water based sports are also popular activities. Traditional Thai longboats can be seen all across the nation, and racing them is a popular sport up and down the length and breadth of the country. Longboat Racing is one of Thailand’s oldest traditions, and competitions have been arranged continuously since the Ayutthaya period (about 600 years ago). In those days of yore, the games were used to enhance the physical and mental strength of the men folk, as the country was almost continuously at war with the neighbouring countries of Burma (Myanmar), bangkok101.com

Finally, a sport unique to Chonburi province (just outside Bangkok) is Buffalo Racing. This is a truly unique event—the most famous event in the province, in fact—and the competitions have been held annually for more than 140 years. The races began as a way to show gratitude to the buffaloes after working for their farmers throughout the year. The races, held in front of the Municipal Office, are fast and furious and the rampaging beasts throw up clouds of dust as they pound down the course, with their “jockeys” hanging on for dear life. Apart from the must-see buffalo racing, the annual Buffalo Racing Festival also features the ‘Most Healthy Buffalo’ contest, and a parade of beautifully-decorated buffalo carts. Other highlights include a ‘Miss Farmer Beauty Contest’, a Thai martial arts exhibition, and plenty of local food and drink specialties. The next one takes place on Tuesday, September 23rd, 2018. M AY 2 0 1 8 | 2 7

CITY PULSE | weekend wanderer

Tee Time in Thailand Golf getaways for city swingers By Bruce Scott

lthough they’re a “fairway” from the downtown core, city swingers can still hit the links at several golf courses within the greater Bangkok region. And for those who just want to practice, there are several driving ranges located throughout the city, including 42 Tee Off (close to Phra Khanong BTS station), 247 Yard Driving Range (247 Rachadapisek Rd. at the Chaophya Park Hotel), and a 50-yard mini-driving range on the rooftop of the Dusit Thani Hotel (next to Silom MRT station). Meanwhile, for a real 18-hole game, there are several courses near Suvarnabhumi International Airport, as well as a few notable courses just outside the city limits.

Thana City Golf Course Located at the foot of the airport runway, the Thana City Golf Course is about a 25-minute drive from downtown Bangkok and was designed by the legendary Australian golfer Greg Norman. It also serves as the centrepiece of a luxury condominium development, with streams and lakes dissecting the course. Close by is the

Lakewood Golf & Country Club Lakewood Golf & Country Club, home to an acclaimed 27-hole, world-class golf course designed by Michael J. Poellet. There are also two courses situated south of the Bang Na-Chonburi expressway, starting with the Green Valley Country Club, which was designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. and opened in 1988. But closest of all would have to be the Muang Kaew Golf Course and 18-hole course located just south of the humungous Mega Bangna shopping mall. Further afield, the Alpine Golf and Sports Club, located in Pathum Thani province—about 50 km from central Bangkok—is both visually stunning and technically difficult. Regarded as one of the finest courses in the region, it was the site of Tiger Woods’ Johnnie Walker PGA Tour victory in 2000. Also recommended are the Thai Country Club in Chacheongsao province, the Lam Luk Ka Country Club in Pathum Thani province, and the Subhapreuk Golf Club in Samut Prakarn province (all provinces bordering Bangkok).

WHERE TO STAY Located a short drive from Suvarnabhumi International Airport the Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, Bangkok Golf Resort & Spa is an ideal destination for golfers on a getaway, as the property is adjacent to the Summit Windmill Golf Club, a beautifully designed, 18-hole, par 72 course dotted with manmade lakes, rolling hills, and landscaped gardens. Within the resort itself each of the 223 simple and elegant guestrooms and suites features contemporary furnishings and a large balcony overlooking the shaded greens of the course. Guests can relax and revitalize before or after the game in facilities that include a fully equipped 24-hour fitness centre, an outdoor swimming pool, and the holistic Explore Spa. Meanwhile, for diners, the hotel’s F&B outlets include Le Méridien’s signature Latest Recipe and Favola restaurants, as well as Latitude 13°39’, a coffee house by day, and cocktail bar by night. www.lemeridiensuvarnabhumi.com

2 8 | M AY 2 0 1 8

bangkok101.com

weekend wanderer | CITY PULSE

Football Fever

Buriram transitions from backwater outpost to Thailand’s sports capital By Luc Citrinot

he mid-sized city of Buriram, located in Thailand’s northeastern region of Isaan, is not on many traveller’s itineraries, even though it has its fair share of temples, as well as a market and a few nice restaurants to enjoy local specialties. However, for sports fans this lively locale has become a destination of choice after positioning itself as Thailand’s sports capital—with the presence of its famous football club, the Buriram United F.C., as well as the Chang International Circuit motorsport racetrack.

nationwide, Buriram has finally become an increasingly attractive destination with a tourism boom further fuelled by direct flights from Bangkok on both AirAsia and Nok Air.

WHERE TO STAY

Not surprisingly, skepticism greeted the decision of former politician and businessman Nevin Chidchob—who had been an owner of the local Buriram football club since 2009—to build a giant stadium and invest massively in the city’s football team, with the aim of turning it into a champion club both in Thailand and across Asia. In 2011 the I-Mobile Stadium—known as the Buriram Thunder Castle—opened its doors, making it Thailand’s largest stadium, with a capacity of 32,500 people. “The stadium has not only transformed Buriram, injecting a new dynamism in its economy, but it also changed the perception of the city in the eyes of most Thai people,” noted Mod Dang, the stadium’s managing director. “This would represent roughly 850,000 visitors a year to the stadium. We receive on average 3,000 visitors per day to the stadium while football events attract some 25,000 spectators on average. And the more trophies for Amari Buriram United Football Club, the more followers and friends.” Sports tourism continued to grow after the 2014 opening of the Chang International Circuit motorsport racetrack, the first FIA Grade 1 and FIM Grade A circuit in Thailand for motorcycle races (and another project initialized by Nevin Chidchob). Due to its exposure bangkok101.com

Located near the football stadium and speedway race circuit, the X2 Vibe Buriram Hotel offers a hotel experience like no other, designed with both sport fans and trendy travellers in mind. There are three different room types to choose from, including 56 Deluxe rooms, 10 Grand Deluxe pool access rooms, and 2 One-Bedroom suites. All accommodations are decorated in contemporary style, with sport motif decorations adding a touch excitement. Facilities include a beautiful outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre, the 4K Café (providing a range of drinks and refreshments), and a race car themed rooftop bar. www.x2vibe.com

M AY 2 0 1 8 | 2 9

SNAPSHOTS | insight

Kenro Izu: The impermanence of light and life 3 0 | M AY 2 0 1 8

bangkok101.com

insight | SNAPSHOTS

Kenro Izu

he soul of Kenro Izu was seduced by photography. Through a microscopic lens— when he studied medical science—and then via the lenses of cameras, his aesthetic sense lures the viewers to look and relook at his photographic works. His subjects, like sensuous nudes in cyanotype, and evocative stones of Khmer ruins, not only entice to gaze, but his platinum-palladium prints can also set the room aglow with otherworldly aura. Born in Osaka, Japan, Kenro went to high school in Iwakuni, where his sense of beauty was nurtured by its idyllic countryside landscape. His desire to become a doctor gave way to the arts when he attended college in Tokyo. During his sophomore year, he travelled to New York and worked as a photographic assistant for three years. “Back then in Japan, photography wasn’t considered an art form,” Kenro recalls, adding it was employed mainly for journalistic purposes. “So I went to the US where photography is also a fine art. When I was 25, I opened my studio for commercial photography to make a living while I continued to do my art photos.”

NOW NEW NEXT Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he meets with creative minds and artistic souls from both Thailand and overseas. From traditional, to contemporary and avant-garde, he finds out about the visions, inspirations, and creations of these talented individuals. bangkok101.com

Starting to travel, his first subject was the Egyptian pyramids of Giza. “I am attracted to stone monuments and ruins,” he explains. “It’s wabi-sabi sensitivity (imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete). Instead of a perfect structure, I see something run down, eroded, with moss growing or ficus trees growing. That’s impermanence; nothing is forever. Angkor Wat was a 12th-century masterpiece of architecture but it’s now in ruins. I found that beautiful.” In 1985 he first exhibited his photographs of sacred sites—from Scotland, England, and Asian countries—at the Howard Greenberg gallery in New York. He made these majestic monuments come alive as if they could speak via his atmospheric vignettes and prints. Working in once war-torn countries like Cambodia and Laos, Kenro noticed the effects of these conflicts upon local children. Initially, their lost limbs from landmines moved him, but their health problems and living conditions also needed help. He thus raised funds with Friends Without a Border, his charity organization, to build paediatric hospitals to provide free, international-standard medical care. His gentle still lifes in blue quietly seduce the viewer. Although they resemble paintings in the same genre by Morandi, Cézanne, and Matisse, Kenro wasn’t influenced by these artists. “I’m actually inspired by Picasso’s ‘Blue Period’ because these works are more quiet, not screaming. These portraits are great, big, and very beautiful but not loud,” he clarifies. Printing photographs require both deftness and patience—selecting paper, adjusting contrasts, and choosing printing types—but Kenro doesn’t use many digital manipulations. Citing the words of Ansel Adams he explains, “The negative is comparable to the composer’s score and the print to its performance. The negative is the music but someone has to play it. So each performance differs in subtle ways.”

Having lived in New York for 48 years, Kenro’s style is still understated. “I work from my heart and my eyes. When I see the subject, I look at the right angle with the shadow. When I sense it with the spirituality, I will set up the camera, choose the lens, and shoot. I like being alone when I photograph. I’m inspired by subjects whether they are flowers, bottles, masks, or nudes. Like the ruins, the skin shows ages. It’s impermanence again. These models at 28, 36, or 42 have wrinkles too. The decay of skin at various ages is interesting.” However, these sand dune-like figures aren’t overtly erotic, but more poetic and meditative. “I cannot take erotic pictures like Araki or shunga, Japanese erotic prints. Exposing too much is not art. It’s not subtle. If you hide it, it’s more interesting.” From the solitude of photographing still lifes he moved to a series of portraits in India. “At first, Indian culture is very intimidating—outgoing, loud, aggressive, and confrontational. People question me about what and why I take photos. But after a few trips, I started to love and enjoy it.” By creating, arranging, composing, and waiting for the right light to shine on the subjects, Kenro became an ardent observer. His latest book, Eternal Light, documents places and people in India. “Most of the people who appear in this book have passed away,” he notes. “I am glad to have captured them and hope that I got something more than their spirits.” Kenro’s new projects are a series on Pompeii and on Japanese Noh theatre masks. Casts of ash-covered bodies set against Pompeii’s haunting ruins will be exhibited in large prints to lend their transient quality. Meanwhile, Noh masks— shot in natural light—will exude dramatic stillness. “Noh movement is minimal,” he explains. “You have to use your imagination. I prefer Noh to Kabuki, which is an entertainment, like a Broadway show with heavy make-up. My work is more like Noh.” M AY 2 0 1 8 | 3 1

SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand

Of Beer and Bitcoin

This month, Bizarre Thailand guest columnist Alasdair McLeod explores the brewing Bitcoin economy of Bangkok, and goes on a search for the city’s only Bitcoin ATM machine

Bangkok's only Bitcoin ATM machine, for now

n the island of Koh Kret, tucked away in a loop on the winding Chao Phraya river, Bangkok’s only Bitcoin ATM (or Bitcoin Teller Machine) serves an irregular flow of cryptocurrency customers who also come to enjoy the craft beers on offer at Chit Beer, the island’s infamous microbrew pub. Interestingly, at a time when the government has plans to ramp up surveillance on Bitcoin, to stamp out money-laundering by criminal networks, a thriving alternative economy is emerging. The owner of Chit Beer—Wichit Saiklao, better known by his nickname ‘Chit’—is an enthusiast for alternative currencies, and he brings his own disruptive personal vision to the economic landscape of Thailand. He was at the vanguard of the craft

3 2 | M AY 2 0 1 8

beer revolution when he brought some of the first ones to the country in 2010. Back then he was helping to break the grip that the big beer monopolies had on the local beverage market, and his more recent decision to start using Bitcoin promises to shake up the traditional banking system in a similar way. “The new model is to just go ahead and do it, instead of asking for the approval of the centralized power structures,” Chit explains. “Just say ‘Sorry, I forgot to ask permission’. Uber, Airbnb, craft beers, and Bitcoin are all based on this new approach. Decentralization is the link between my brewing business and Bitcoin.” While the global Bitcoin market has surged and collapsed on a regular basis, dragging the entire cryptocurrency market along for the ride, a burgeoning

local Bitcoin market has stealthily put down roots in Bangkok. Although there have been others in the past, the BTM at Chit Beer is currently the only one in the city (the tracking website Coin ATM Radar indicates there is also an active BTM in Chiang Mai). Bitcoin miners and traders, whether tourists or locally based, may both require these service points to convert their holdings into Thai baht. Meanwhile, in the city and much further down the river from Chit Beer, a group of Bitcoin enthusiasts meet on Monday evenings for their ‘Satoshi Square’ social event at the The Clubhouse Sports Bar & Grill on Sukhumvit Soi 23. Anyone with an interest is welcome to join in and discuss the latest crypto-trends. Such regular meetings suggest that the interest is only continuing to grow. bangkok101.com

bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS

Wichit 'Chit' Saiklao

Checking the daily rate

Steve Ho, an expat who formerly worked as an engineer, participates in the currency revolution by trading on the erratic moves in both Bitcoin and other cryptocurrencies. After researching the field he started trading in it, as the idea of a cutting-edge technology with new investors buying in to the concept appealed to him. “I’m not a gambler, but this was pure speculation,” admits Steve. “I more than doubled my money and then cashed out my original investment before the market

Bizarre

Thailand

Bizarre Thailand's regular columnist Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the collection of short stories entitled The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (2014), and Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex, and Black Magic. Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com

The money's on the table

went pear-shaped at the end of 2017. That’s why I’m not concerned about the risks as I’m playing with the profits I’ve made. I’m going to let it ride and see what happens. I spent many years working as an engineer where every facet of each project was planned out in incredible detail. The wild cryptofrontier appealed to me as a way of indulging long suppressed impulses for experiencing extreme uncertainty and volatility.” He remains, however, not at all concerned that by using cryptocurrencies he might be seen as using the tools of organized crime. “I’ve not even thought about doing anything dodgy,” he adds. “I haven’t done anything wrong and I haven’t considered using Bitcoin for making illegal purchases. A cashless society is the way things are going anyway.” Steve trades Ripple, Bitcoin, Everex, Ethereum, and Pandacoin, but longer term he expects that only a few major players will remain to dominate—as happened in the social media landscape.

“It may be that a new player will enter the market and incorporate the existing cryptocurrencies,” he remarks. “It could even be a fiat-crypto hybrid currency that dominates. The loophole is that cryptocurrencies are not backed by anything. For example, North Korea could develop a crypto-system backed by lobsters the way that Western currencies used to be backed by gold. Anything could happen! It’s an exciting time. Any government could initiate such a project and influence the financial system, and there are signs that some countries are taking steps in this direction. Corporations are beginning to invest as well.” Steve also has some sage advice for investors and entrepreneurs looking to make a profit in the bizarre world of crypto-economy. “If you’ve got a gut feeling, go for it. Change is happening so fast that it’s difficult to anticipate the most lucrative areas, but anything ahead of the mainstream that combines new technologies is a good bet. Make sure you’re an early investor ahead of the crowd piling in.”

The new and expanded version of author Jim Algie’s latest tome, On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Tales of Rock and Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway, sports a cover blurb from the renowned author Timothy Hallinan: “The funniest sad book and the saddest funny book I’ve read in a long time.” The book is currently available for purchase, both as an e-book and as a paperback, at www.amazon.com.

M AY 2 0 1 8 | 3 3

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

The Iron Temple

The unique history of the newly restored Monastery of the Royal Niece Words by Joe Cummings/CPA Media Photos by Bruce Scott

The ornate golden spires of Loha Prasat

pposite Mahakan Fort, surrounded by thick, immaculate white walls at the intersection of Mahachai and Ratchadamnoen roads, stands one of the capital’s most historic and well preserved 19th-century Buddhist monastery complexes. Though many will have caught glimpses of Wat Ratchanatdaram (sometimes spelt Wat Rajanaddaram) in passing, my general impression is that few foreigners, even among long-time residents, can claim to have passed through its massive gates. The name means “Monastery of the Royal Niece”, and is so named because King Rama III ordered the temple built in 1846 to honour his beloved 3 4 | M AY 2 0 1 8

niece Sommanas Wattanavadi, who he took into the Grand Palace after the death of her father, Prince Lakkhananukul. What seems to be less common knowledge is the fact that Rama III’s successor, King Mongkut, married Princess Sommanas when he ascended the throne. Like her father, Sommanas suffered an untimely death when in 1851, at the age of 18, she died after giving birth to a boy, who also died within hours. The wat is most well-known for Loha Prasat, a huge tiered stupa which for much of the 20th-century lay hidden behind the Chalerm Thai, a large Thai Art Deco cinema on Ratchadamnoen Road. In an

effort to improve scenery along Ratchadamnoen Road, and to preserve the temple—and much to the charging of vintage cinema buffs—the theatre was demolished in 1989. Loha Prasat consists of an imposing system of huge laterite columns which support five concentric square towers that diminish in size as they ascend. These columns and towers collectively form an interior labyrinth that were once used for meditation. The outer, middle and centre towers, which number 37 altogether, are crowned by iron spires. These spires used to be coloured an ominous jet black, and thus quite unique, but recently they were covered in gold colouring, making them more like the city’s other Thai temples. bangkok101.com

During the day the labyrinth is open to the public. A spiral stairway leads to the top of the centre tower, which offers impressive views of the surrounding cityscape, including the glittering Golden Mount and Wat Saket. Night-time views are particularly striking, but unfortunately nowadays the building is only open to visitors from 9am till 5pm (admission B20). Numerologically the 37 towers represent the 37 factors of enlightenment cultivated by bodhisattvas (Buddhist saints or “Buddhas-to-be”). Although Thai myth says that Loha Prasat means “Iron Castle” in Sanskrit, it actually means “Iron Temple”. And claims that the monument was modelled after pre-existing examples in India and/or Sri Lanka are also falsified. Truth be told, the ruins of these similarly named buildings, which were rectangular rather than square, bear little relation to the structure at Wat Ratchanatda other than the name and the fact that parts of the structures may have been made of metal. Anuradhapura’s Lohaprasada, for example, was a typical vihara with a copper roof, not a stupa. A closer resemblance can be found in the larger, 14th-century Thanboddhay Stupa in Monywa, Myanmar, northwest of Mandalay, which comprises a similar grouping of ascending, hollow towers arranged on concentric square floor plans. Some

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

Photo by Nelly Matray / Flickr.com

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS

The original black spires

Wat Ratchanatdaram

Narrow staircases

written Thai sources do note Burmese influence on Loha Prasat, though none name Thanboddhay in particular. Thanboddhay was said to have been inspired by still-larger Borobudur Stupa, a 9th-century Tantric Buddhist monument in central Java. In fact, the list of 37 factors of enlightenment is more at home in the Tantric Buddhist (Vajrayana) school of Buddhism than the Theravada school, a fact that may or may not have been known to the Thai temple architects who built Loha Prasat, which is smaller than Thanboddhay (which is, in turn, much smaller than Borobudur). The monastery’s ubosatha (ordination hall) standing parallel to Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem was added by King Rama III in 1864 and

contains a highly revered copper Buddha image called Phra Setthamuni. Behind the temple complex, a tented area of vendor stalls offers an unusual collection of occult objects for sale. Although often referred to as an amulet market, Buddhist amulets in fact make up only a small proportion of the items on display here. If you wander through the maze of cabinets, cases and tables you’ll come across legions of khon masks—particularly those of Pho Kae Ta Fai (“Fire-Eye Old Father”, a mythical forest sage who is believe to be the wellspring of Thai occult systems)—as well as Brahamnist deities for office building shrines, full-size Buddha images for the home, and tiny plastic deities for Thai spirit houses. M AY 2 0 1 8 | 3 5

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Street Vendors

Shops on wheels keep the economy moving – Part 1

hais have dined amid the traffic for decades. From the mid-2000s, guidebooks started to apply the global trend for “authentic” rootsy cuisine by listing vendors and night markets previously known mainly by word of mouth. The increased status of streetfood—and of Thailand’s many wonderful markets in general—led authorities to appreciate and promote hawker food. But behind the gastronomy lies drudgery. Imagine steering a bicycle through a crowd, a car-wide dessert tray straddling the handlebars, or pulling half the stock of a shophouse on a trolley. Try heaving a hot egg barbecue brazier all day on a bamboo shoulder yoke, or shoving a gas-fired cauldron of soup stock across an eight-lane road. Without lights. Or reflectors. Or a sideways glance. This isn’t a daredevil act in Cirque du Soleil, but reality for the roving Thai vendor. Pedalling, pushing, or pulling a rot khen (push cart) for a living is the micro-profit career of millions. They trudge long distances, as motored carts cost more for fuel and maintenance than they save in labour. Many hawked items satisfy impulse needs at any time or place; others face a sell-by date. Food carts purvey a staple, often most relished when cooked live on the street, such as squid— dried, rolled, pegged to a frame, and then warmed over charcoal—which sates roadside drinkers. The blasé way that vendors wend through Thailand has barely adapted from carefree pre-industrial days, when carts, not pick-up trucks, ruled the dirt roads between villages, and boats plied the khlong (canals) through communities in the Central Plains. In today’s rare roadless areas, paddle craft still deliver provisions from shop-pier to house-pier. Some prepare dishes at an onboard galley for khlong dwellers to relish. But the quaint postcard image of the floating market is fast evaporating, with most survivors reduced to souvenir touting or retro pastiche. Yet waterborne commerce is central to the national psyche. Thais embrace modernity perhaps because they discard the past so readily, yet they yearn at the same time for certain emotive icons of Thainess.

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 3 6 | M AY 2 0 1 8

Upon sighting kuaytiao reua (boat noodles), Thais tend to salivate and go dewy-eyed. Hence land-based “boat noodle” vendors customize their carts or cafés with prowshaped counters or salvaged boat parts. “People who live along the water in Ayutthaya or Ang Thong will tell you that the old boats are now hot items for sale,” remarks Suthorn Sukphisit, a folk culture buff who derides the quality of modern kuaytiao reua. “[The buyers] are noodle sellers who display them in their shops purely to create a certain image.” Antique wooden rot khen—panels evocatively stained, varnish charred, grain revealed through wear—now park in homes as décor items, holding pots of plants not urns of coffee. Their ready-made metal successors cost upwards of 3,000-5,000 baht for a small cart, or 10,000-15,000 for a large one (25,000 if motorized). Though for half that you can self-assemble a cart from brackets, planks and bicycle wheels. Some customize them, like the vendor in Phetchabun who raised the superstructure so he could stay in business during floods. Poor vendors rent carts for upwards of 50-100 baht a day, but buying a new cart requires careful consideration for fruit vendors profiting just 500 or so baht a day. Meanwhile, renowned food stall-holders can reap enough to buy property or cars. Centuries of easing smoothly through boat-jams has, fortunately, prepared Thai hawkers for the fact that road traffic, too, obeys the laws of fluid dynamics. Vendors think nothing of setting up folding tables and miniature plastic stools around their cart on the inside of a corner or the neck of a soi. Where streams of travellers eddy, customers deposit like sediment at a river bend. Around them, somehow, the bikes, cars and buses all effortlessly flow. Millimetres separate diners from moving vehicles. Nothing ever seems to touch. Accidents tend to be minor among parked soi carts, though they’re a hazard when careering around highways. Tables, chairs, braziers, gas bottles are piled high upon the cart to be wheeled off to some hidden garage before tomorrow morning’s dawn trip to the market for supplies.

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

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SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Prestigious Promenade Heritage spanning a century on busy Sathorn Road By Luc Citrinot

Robot Building

ver the past number of decades, Sathorn Road has become a prestigious address for large corporations, hotels, and international embassies. But amidst all the towering condos and office skyscrapers there are still a few European-style villas to be admired, as well as a couple of modern structures offering striking design elements. Sathorn Road used to be a street lined with the opulent villas of local entrepreneurs involved in trading. The street was originally built to link the Phra Nakhon area to Thonburi, and prosperity came due to the digging of a canal allowing boats to go to the Chao Phraya River. The Sathorn Road of today is now synonymous with luxury and status, and in just the last 20 years this wide boulevard, bisected somewhat by the large pedestrian bridge crossing near the Chong Nonsi BTS skytrain station— has seen a boom in corporate real estate development. 3 8 | M AY 2 0 1 8

The House on Sathorn

Sathorn’s skyline silhouette is indeed determined by some striking contemporary buildings—a tradition started by the construction of the former Alliance Française Thailand headquarters, which was built in 1966 as a cluster of low-rise pavilions surrounded by a garden. The structure, located at the top end of Sathorn near Rama IV, accommodated virtually all Francophile cultural activities until 2014 when the AFT moved to Wireless Road. In the same vicinity was another typical 70s era complex, the former Australian Embassy. Conceived in 1975, it opened its doors in 1979 and only closed down last year. However, the new owner of the property promises to keep the structure (and its distinctive yellow tiles) intact when it is transformed into a new eco-friendly luxury condominium. Among the best known of Sathorn’s skyscrapers is the Robot Building, constructed in 1986 by

Thailand’s star architect Sumet Jumsai na Ayudhya, who got inspiration from a Japanese robot toy. Further up the road is the impressive Banyan Tree Hotel with its semi-circular top— resembling a giant eye. It remains, to this day, one of the highest hotel towers in town, offering sweeping views all over the city from its restaurant and bar located 60 storeys above the street below. However, the oldest hotel along Sathorn Road is The Sukhothai Bangkok, which opened in 1991. Its modern design is the work of Kerry Hills Architects, and the property reinterprets and reflects Thai architecture. Long colonnades open onto a pond, courtyards are rhythmed by white columns, and the corridors remind one of temple galleries. In short, the elegance of this hotel is timeless. By contrast, some more modern hotels are setting the trends in contemporary architecture. At the corner of North Sathorn and Rama IV roads the So Sofitel overlooks nearby bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS Lumpini Park. While the building— constructed by the architect firm OBA in 2012—does not look so striking from the outside, the luxury property has been conceived by a team of five designers who have followed the earth’s elemental principles in their design. Floors are themed after water, earth, fire, metal, and wood. Another distinctive hotel property is the W Hotel at the corner of North Sathorn and Narathiwas roads. Like the So Sofitel the W looks rather uninspired from the outside, with its plain glass façade, but inside visitors will be confronted by captivating artworks from famed Thai designers and artists. The property also blends into its grounds an existing villa from the early 20th century which now resides at the foot of this modern minimalist tower. The former ‘Sathorn Mansion’, now rechristened as The House on Sathorn restaurant, has been admirably restored—giving an opportunity to visitors to get a glimpse of what could have, in the past, been the opulent residence of a ChineseThai nobleman. The House of Sathorn is probably the most beautiful example of this thoroughfare’s past splendour. Built

Historic

Bangkok

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

Blue Elephant Restaurant

Saint Louis Catholic Church

Banyan Tree Hotel

in 1914, the mansion reflected the taste of the time for Italian-inspired, neo-renaissance architecture, with its balconies, verandas and classical columns. It also served as a hotel in the 1920s, and then as the residence for the Ambassador to the Soviet Union (later Russia) from 1948 to 1999. The superb restoration has brought the building into the 21st century as a chic bar and eatery, which also serves as a space for private events. Aside from The House on Sathorn there are less than half a dozen villas that have survived from the pioneering days of this street. One of them is now the Myanmar Embassy, but it is unfortunately not visible from street level (however you can see a bit of it from the windows of the BTS Skytrain which passes nearby). Another beautiful mansion, which has been restored to its former glory, is the former Bombay Burmah Trading Company, which today hosts the Blue Elephant Restaurant. The property

has been refurbished in traditional Thai and Southeast Asian style, and a steady stream of diners are treated to a menu of exquisite royal Thai cuisine. There are also two churches along Sathorn Road. The Christ Church Bangkok, at the foot of Convent Road, was built in 1905 for the British protestant community in simple neo-gothic style, and looks similar to many small parish British churches across Southeast Asia. Queen Elizabeth II even visited it in 1972. Further down, and on the opposite side of Sathorn— within the compound of Saint Louis Hospital—lies the Saint Louis Catholic Church. Built in revival art deco-style in 1957, it serves as a spiritual sanctuary and a nice example of beautiful yet simple wooden architecture. INFORMATION: Sathorn Road is easily accessible by public transport via the MRT (Lumphini station), the BTS Skytrain (Chong Nonsi and Surasak stations); and the BRT (Chong Nonsi station). M AY 2 0 1 8 | 3 9

Photo courtesy of Tourism Authority of Thailand

Rock climbers rejoice at beautiful Railay Beach

KRABI 101 A

djectives such as breathtaking, spectacular, eye-popping, and the like are often used to describe the natural beauty of the Thai province of KRABI—but even these superlatives barely come close to conveying the drop dead splendour of this southern tourism hub. It is, at once, both majestic and mysterious; a combination of craggy limestone karsts that jut out of the landscape (and seascape) at impossibly sharp angles, crystal clear blue-green waters that transition effortlessly through multiple hues as they approach the shore, and dense jungle interiors that hold fascinating secrets. Visitors arriving by air at the KRABI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT will find themselves near the geographic centre of this 4,709 sq.km province, although most tourists gravitate immediately towards the ocean, and in particular the beachfront town of AO NANG. From this lively locale it’s easy to get a boat to one of the popular offshore islands, including KOH LANTA and KOH PHI PHI—the latter a once secluded island hideaway that gained international fame when it was featured in Danny Boyle’s 2000 film The Beach, starring Leonardo Di Caprio. Also within easy reach are the beautiful islands of KOH YAO YAI and KOH YAO NOI, although technically they are within the Thai province of Phang-Nga. Ao Nang is also used as the jumping off point for rock climbing enthusiasts heading to RAILAY BEACH, which is actually attached to the mainland but almost impossible to access by road. The sheer rock faces of Railay have attracted climbers from all over the world and created a mini-industry for hotels and businesses catering to these aerial adventurers. Upscale properties such as the RAILAY BAY RESORT & SPA and the nearby CENTARA GRAND BEACH RESORT & VILLAS KRABI are perfect for exploring this unique enclave, while the DEEVANA KRABI RESORT and the HOLIDAY INN RESORT KRABI AO NANG BEACH are great for taking in the party atmosphere along the main beachfront road. Kayaking, sailing, scuba-diving, and snorkeling are among the other top activities of visitors near the beach, but moving inland Krabi offers plenty of diversions as well, mainly in the form of trekking, bird-watching, and eco-tours in the province’s numerous national parks. The KHAO PHANOM BENCHA NATIONAL PARK contains within it beautiful rainforests, rare wildlife, an underground cave system, and a number of waterfalls—the most famous of which is the 80-metrehigh, 11 layered NAMTOK HUAI TO. The park is also home to PHANOM BENCHA MOUNTAIN, the highest in Krabi with a height of 1,397 metres (the summit can be reached on a multi-day trek, in the company of a professional ranger). Another recommended nature lover’s spot is the KHAO PHRA BANG KHRAM WILDLIFE SANCTUARY, which is a bird-watcher’s paradise. It’s located in the southeastern part of the province, towards Trang, not far from the popular EMERALD POOL hot spring and mineral bath. Other inland attractions include the TIGER CAVE TEMPLE, where visitors who climb the 1,237 steps to reach the Buddha statues at the summit are rewarded with an unparalleled panoramic vista, and the KHAO KHANAB NAM MOUNTAINS, twin peaks located on either side of a river with a series of caves at their base. One of the mountains is climbable and offers some excellent photograph opportunities from the top.

TRAVEL | focus on krabi

A Tale of Two Cities As far as urban outposts go, Krabi Town and Ao Nang are the province’s busiest commercial centres

Photo by BorshopComputing/Flickr.com

KRABI TOWN: The provincial capital of Krabi province is named, fittingly, Krabi Town. Located at the mouth of the equally aptly named Krabi River, it is a small but typically Thai bustling market town. Fishing in both the river and sea used to be the main industry here, but now commerce, government, and tourism play a larger role. There are a large number of hotels and guesthouses in Krabi, ranging from five-star resorts to the most basic ‘CheapCharlie’ backpacker dorm rooms. The town has no beach, so kayaking in the mangrove forests, visiting the caves at Khao Kanab Nam are popular options for outings. On the weekend there’s a Walking Street night market, with its handicrafts, clothing and souvenir stalls, while Chao Fah Pier is the place to go for authentic street food (open nightly from 6pm till 11pm). The town also has some interesting public art, including traffic light sculptures along the main roads of the town featuring: an elephant holding and raising a sword with its trunk; a flying hawk; and a prehistoric apeman. But the most popular spot for selfies has to be the giant Black Crab Monument (left) that sits along the Krabi River banks. It not only symbolizes the local reverence for the mangrove forests—the natural habitat of the black crabs—but it also offers a glimpse into the resident’s traditional sea-based culture.

AO NANG: The fact that it has a lovely beach makes Ao Nang a popular mainland destination for people vacationing in Krabi province, although most visitors spend just a minimum amount of time here, and use the town mainly as a departure point for visits to neighbouring islands that offer cleaner water and finer sand. And while it does have many of the drawbacks you’d associate with a beachfront town catering to an endless stream of transient tourists—overpriced food,

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tacky souvenirs, and aggressive touts—it’s also large enough so that savvy visitors can pick and choose what suits them best. So whether you want an expensive resort and a bit of fine dining, or a cheap guesthouse and some beachfront street food, it’s all there. And every day at dusk, hordes of tourists and locals alike gather on the beach to patiently watch the spectacular sunsets, congregating mostly on the wide cement steps leading down to the beach (near the Ao Nang Walking Street).

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focus on krabi | TRAVEL

Rock Stars Railay Beach is ground zero for courageous climbers in Krabi

Photo courtesy of Tourism Authority of Thailand

By Bruce Scott

variety of Multi-Pitch Routes are available (about B6,000 or “sane” people, the dramatic limestone karst for a full day, including lunch), which offer spectacular cliffs of Krabi are imposing stone monoliths—sheer views from the summits. rock faces that dwarf mere mortals with their Another unique aspect of rock climbing in Railay is vast vertical superiority. But for legions of daredevil rock the opportunity for climbers to try Deep Water Soloing. climbing enthusiasts they are a dizzying dream come There are plenty of cliff faces in this area which have true—towering, tantalizing temptations that simply beg precarious “overhangs” positioned directly above deep to be ascended. ocean water, as so basically the idea is that you scale The scale of the scaling that goes on in Railay is these rocky cliffs without using ropes, and the deep impressive, to say the least. In all there are over two water below acts as protection when you fall (which you dozen climbing walls and routes in and around this eventually will). How high you go depends completely on pristine peninsula, with courses that cater to all levels your skill and personal limits. In other of aerial expertise. Some have words… are you prepared to fall off the suitably sinister sounding monikers, rock from 60 feet or higher? such as Escher World Wall, Eagle To do Deep Water Soloing you’ll need Wall, Fire Wall, and Cobra Wall. By some form of boat transport to get out contrast, less advanced athletes to these rocks, which is why it’s best to will be pleased to know that the do it in an organized group situation. In less ominous sounding 123 Wall, spots where there is a bit of an overhang Diamond Cave Wall, and The Pinnacle next to the water, ropes or rope ladders are routes recommended for both hang down to help climbers get into beginner and intermediate climbers. position on the dry vertical slope. You If you’re new to the sport then then maneuver up the walls, searching it’s recommended to look for an for footholds and trying to conserve experienced, professional guide and/ energy, until you hit a spot where you or teacher. Most introductory courses simply can’t continue—either from cover the fundamentals, including exhaustion or because continuing is the basics of how to tie knots, rope beyond your ability. Then it’s time to security and safety, and climbing push off the rocks and splash down into techniques. Half-day courses can start the waves of the ocean below! from as little as B1,000 (B3,000 for To find out more about rock climbing a private guide), which most often training and courses at Railay Beach, include all equipment, as well as visit www.krabirockclimbing.com, and/or drinking water and insurance. For a www.realrocksclimbing.com longer and more rigorous outing, a Deep water soloing (time lapse) bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | focus on krabi

Island Hopping

Exploring the postcard perfect isles of Ao Nang Bay

Words and photos by Bruce Scott KOH RANG NOK: Just off the western tip of the arrow-head peninsula that is home to Railay Beach, sits Koh Rang Nok. This tiny but picturesque island of white sand beaches is surrounded by crystal clear shallow

waters. At high tide it can appear to be two separate islands, but when the tide recedes an isthmus of fine white sand appears just above the surface, creating a pedestrian walkway between the two halves.

SNORKELLING: Almost all the islands that lie offshore from the Krabi mainland are perfect for snorkelling, especially the small uninhabited ones that are literally just large chunks of rock popping up above the surface of the sea. Unfortunately, the increase in water temperatures globally, and the increase in tourists to Thailand annually, have both had a dramatic impact on the health of these once pristine reefs, but visitors can still see a few patches of healthy coral and plenty of colourful fish darting about whenever curious visitors arrive.

CHICKEN ISLAND: Known in Thai language as “Koh Gai” or “Koh Tub”, the rather odd-shaped rock formation—referred to in English as Chicken Island—is indeed an island that does resemble a chicken (from certain angles anyway). On it you’ll find secluded beaches, a snack bar, and some nice offshore snorkeling spots. 4 4 | M AY 2 0 1 8

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focus on krabi | TRAVEL

KOH PODA: Located just 6 km south from Ao Nang, the postcard perfect tropical island known as Koh Poda is a preferred stop on most organized boat tours in this region. The island is part of a National Marine Park, and as such there is an entry fee—for non-Thais admission

is B400 (children B200) and for Thais it’s B40 (children B20)—although this fee is worked into the price of most commercial tours. For shutterbugs, the large vertical rock formation that stands dramatically alone in the waters just off the main beach has become a “must-do” photo op.

KOH HONG: It’s a bit of a distance—heading in the direction to the west and north of Ao Nang—but the journey to Koh Hong is worth it… provided you don’t mind crowds. Because of the sheer volume of boats arriving at this island paradise a floating dock was built, which allows the huge numbers of visitors easy access to a stretch of white sand and turquoise waters that’s nicely shaded by the line of trees along the beach. Colourful fish dart and scurry around tourists taking a dip in the shallow ocean waters, while vendors onshore have plenty refreshments for sale when visitors get peckish or parched. bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | see & do krabi

What to See, What to Do Krabi province offers a multitude of stunning scenic attractions

Stunning viewpoint at Phi Phi Don PHI PHI ISLANDS: If you’ve seen Danny Boyle’s 2000 film The Beach, starring Leonardo DiCaprio, then you’ve seen Phi Phi Islands—especially the stunningly beautiful Maya Bay where many of the lagoon scenes were filmed. Since its cinematic debut this region of Thailand has become internationally known, which has proved both a blessing (for the local economy) and a curse (for the marine ecosystem). A number of years ago the islands, together

with the nearby Noppharat Thara Beach, were established as a national park, with a total area of 390 sq.km, and more recently it was announced that Maya Bay would be closed to tourists for 120 days a year; from June to September. Currently, up to 4,000 visitors a day flock to this once pristine strip of white sand, surrounded by turquoise waters and dramatic limestone cliffs, so new the ban on boats arriving here will put a dent in the local tourism trade, but it will help the corals regenerate… hopefully. But there’s more to this tropical paradise than just Leonardo’s legacy. The area known as the Phi Phi Islands covers six islets altogether, the most visited of which are Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Le. The larger of the two is Phi Phi Don, which offers beautiful beaches plus an assortment of accommodation facilities along the two beautiful curved bays, Ton Sai Bay and Lodalam Bay. To the south is Phi Phi Le Island, which has no beaches and is uninhabited. However, the scenic coves of the island are favourite places for snorkellers and divers. To get to Phi Phi from the Krabi mainland, visitors can take a boat at Chao Fa Pier or Klong Jilad Pier. The trip takes about 1.5 to 2.5 hours, depending on whether it is an express boat or standard boat.

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see & do krabi | TRAVEL

Longtail boats plying the waterways THAN BOK KHORANI NATIONAL PARK: Located in the northern end of Krabi province— around 50 km from Krabi Town—Than Bok Khorani National Park spans a ridge of limestone mountains and coastal mangrove forest, encompassing over 100 sq.km. The scenery is stunning and if you like kayaking, this is an ideal spot for a great day trip. From the visitor centre, near the town of Ao Luek, a nature trail leads straight to the park’s main attraction, the Than Bok Khorani Waterfall. Locals flock here to relax and swim in pools that are believed to have therapeutic qualities. A few kms south is Baan Bor Thor, a small village set amid the inland mangroves where much of the local economy centres around taking tourists on longtail boat rides, or guided kayaking trips. If you have the time, opt for the latter, as it is a much more peaceful way to enjoy the undisturbed natural scenery. The main attraction here is a dramatic cave—accessible by water—known as Tham Phi Hua To, or ‘Ghost Head Cave’. Back in the 1950s prehistoric human remains were uncovered here, along with 238 cave-wall paintings that are found throughout the complex. Not much is known about the cave dwellers themselves other than they inhabited these parts about 3,000 years ago. High up on one wall is Khun Lai Sen, an eerie kangaroo-like, horned figure with a striped body. The painting most likely depicts a shaman wearing some sort of costume, as it is believed that the cave was used mainly for religious purposes, like a kind of ancient cathedral. Depictions and statues of this mystic figure can be spotted throughout this area of Krabi province, as it has become something of an unofficial mascot here. Other cave painting subject matters include birds, fish, lizards and a pair of human hands—one of them with six fingers. The park is open daily from 8:30am till 4:30pm. It has no accommodation, but a handful of small resorts and homestays are found in the area, and a few floating seafood restaurants are located near the kayak rental offices. bangkok101.com

Cave kayaking

Khun Lai Sen

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TRAVEL | see & do krabi

THA POM KHLONG SONG NAM: The coastal areas of Krabi province are filigreed with an intricate network of winding waterways, and one of the most charming is Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam, or ‘Two Water Canal’, located south of the Than Bok Khorani National Park. The park’s ecology includes abundant mangrove and banyan trees, but the main feature is the fresh water that pours off a nearby limestone mountain and mixes with saltwater as it heads towards the ocean. The effect is crystal -clear, emerald-tinged river water that flows through a surreal course of twisted tree roots that look like something taken directly out of one of Walt Kelly’s illustrations for the classic comic strip Pogo. A raised wooden walkway leads visitors along the circular path through the park, and stopping to dip your feet into the cool clear slightly salty water breaks up the leisurely trek. And at the end of the trail there’s a small natural pool for swimming. Overall it’s a very peaceful oasis, but surprisingly very few foreign travellers make the journey here.

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see & do krabi | TRAVEL

Children (of all ages) cooling off in the Emerald Pool

looks entrancing but is actually filled with hot thermal spring water and surrounded by quicksand. Another popular site in this area is the is the Klong Thom Hot Springs, a series of naturally hollowed-out “bathtubs” in the smooth stone, filled to the brim with fresh running spring water at a pleasant 35-42°C. Admission to the nature reserve is B200 and the grounds are open daily from 8:30am till 5pm.

WHERE TO STAY

Forest walkway

Blue Pool

Folk wisdom maintains that the mineral salts contained in the hot spring waters of southern Krabi are said to ease a number of ailments, including rheumatism, sciatica, and skin complaints. For a more luxurious mineral water experience the Wareeraksa Hot Spring Retreat is both a day spa and an overnight resort. Here a network of small, man-made (but natural looking) free-form rock pools are filled with thermal spring water of various temperatures. It’s like an elaborate outdoor onsen with outdoor massage salas on the side. Accommodations consist of villa suites, deluxe rooms and bamboo cottages, while the onsite facilities include a restaurant, botanical garden, meditation zone, nature trail, and tea room. www.wareerak.co.th

THE EMERALD POOL: In the Klong Thom district of southern Krabi, near the Khao Phra Bang Khram Nature Reserve, are a series of thermal hot springs, originating in deep underground volcanic chambers. For tourists the aptly named Emerald Pool is the main draw here, and you reach it via a network of trails that wind through the serenely beautiful Khao Nor Chu Chi forest. The Emerald Pool is suitable for swimming, and as such it is usually noisy and crowded (but still loads of fun). If time permits, a short 600-metre hike takes you to the eerily beautiful Blue pool, a natural, shaded pool that bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | live like a local

Krabi Communities

Take a beach break and visit a few local fishing and farming villages Words and photos by Bruce Scott

Muslim woman sifting rice

Souvenir carved longboats

Batik painting on fabric

KOH KLANG: Although it lies across the river from the mass tourism hustle and bustle of Krabi Town, the district known as Koh Klang is worlds apart in every respect—the most obvious of which is that it doesn’t see a lot of tourists. However, community based tourism is growing here— complete with homestays offered by local residents—and brave souls who do make the journey are rewarded with a glimpse into traditional Southern Thai Islamic culture (nearly all of the locals are devout Muslims). The word “koh” in Thai means island, and Koh Klang is a flat, 26 sq.km expanse surrounded on all sides by either rivers, canals, mangrove forests, or the Andaman Sea. Most visitors arrive in the northwest, at Tha-Lay Pier, in the largest of Koh Klang’s three villages. Few if any cars are allowed on the island, but there are quite a few motorbikes and tuk tuks. The rural landscape is blanketed with rice fields, many cultivating khao sang yod, a prized organic purple grain grown in a mix of fresh and salt waters. Koh Klang’s early seafaring residents are said to have invented the hua tong, the iconic hardwood banana-shaped vessel that nowadays graces virtually every photograph and postcard of a Thai

beach. The raised “head” of the boat was designed to stand against the current while also acting as a marker for direction, and an island workshop crafts model-size versions of these ships—which make wonderful souvenirs. Other local products for purchase include colourful hand-painted fabrics, and at the Katik Textiles Group—an enterprise run by a group of about 30 ladies—batik-clad grandmothers demonstrate the local patae (batik) technique.

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A man and his buffalo bangkok101.com

live like a local | TRAVEL LAEM SAK: Located in the far northwestern part of Krabi province, the district of Laem Sak juts out from the mainland like a curved claw, cutting into the picturesque expanse of tropical ocean water known as Phang-Nga Bay. Sadly, this area rarely gets many tourists, even though it has the same eerily beautiful limestone rock cliffs as Phang-Nga province, and the same kinds of prehistoric cave paintings found in nearby Baan Bor Thor (see pg. 47). In an attempt to correct this dearth of visitors, Laem Sak has become part of Krabi’s large scale Village Tourism Project, which allows tourists to experience the “local way of life”. On a recent visit, courtesy of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), we were taken on an afternoon excursion by boat to check out the natural wonders of this overlooked outpost. After crossing a bamboo bridge to get to the dock area we Orchid aid were taken upstream to see the outdoor cultivation nursery of yellow orchids—an endangered flower variety native to this region, which is being actively replanted in the local forests. We then turned the boat around and headed out to Phang-Nga Bay via a winding river route, passing gorgeous limestone karsts of various sizes along the way. As we entered ocean waters and began circling the bay, our guide pointed out many points of interest, including two water-access caves with mystifying ochre-coloured paintings on the walls that date back thousands of years. We also made a brief stop amidst of cluster of upright limestone karst formations—rising up at 90° angles from the emerald green depths—one of which greatly

Guided tour aboard a longboat

resembles the famous James Bond Rock that attracts so many tourists daily to Phang-Nga Bay. The one in Laem Sak is, admittedly, a bit smaller, but without all the crowds I’d say it’s also “better”. We rounded out the boat tour with a stop at one of the area’s floating fish farm villages. Here the locals are raising a variety of fish, shellfish, and crustaceans, as well as caulerpa lentillifera, a species of bryopsidale green algae from coastal regions in the Indo-Pacific (although it is referred to most often by a much more appetizing name… “sea caviar”). Our last stop was the pristine Anchovy Beach, an unspoiled stretch of sand contained within a semi-circular

Floating fish farm bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | live like a local

Rival to the James Bond Rock?

Cave art

WHERE TO STAY

Anchovy Beach

River dock

fortress of forest-covered limestone mountainsides. After a half-hour of sun and sand we headed back to the Laem Sak Pier, marveling at the beautiful natural scenery as we rounded each bend in our path back to shore. NOTE: If you’re interested to explore the cultural diversity of Laem Sak—a province comprised of Buddhist, Muslim, and Chinese communities who have lived together in harmony for generations—visit the Laem Sak Community Based Tourism group online at: www.facebook.com/ laemsakcbt. You can also find out about community tours offered via the website: www.krabi-tourism.com. 5 2 | M AY 2 0 1 8

Although humble homestays can be arranged for visitors to Laem Sak looking to truly “live like a local”, slightly more upscale accommodations can be had at the Bulan Anda Baba Resort, situated at the end of Laem Sak Cape with the spectacular views of the sea. The property’s luxurious Deluxe Rooms and Pool Villas are very contemporary in style, with all the modern amenities you’d expect (air conditioning, flatscreen TV, etc). By contrast, the resort’s beautifully preserved, bright blue showpiece lobby building is a spectacular example of the classic Chinese-influenced Peranakan—or “Baba Nyonya”—style. It’s also worth noting that the hotel is a social enterprise concept, operated with local community participation. www.bulanandababaresort.com

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made in thailand | TRAVEL

Krabi Gets Crafty

Croman, a relative newcomer to the Thai craft beer brewer’s circle, makes pair of premium brews that pay homage to Railay Beach and Phi Phi Island By Bruce Scott

he craze for craft beer in Thailand is huge, with most brewers setting up shop in Bangkok—where the action is. However, some decidedly fine brews are also being produced in more remote corners of the Kingdom. In Krabi, a small independent label that goes by the name of Croman Beer recently arrived on the scene, and already they’ve established a name for themselves with two premium craft brews that namecheck two of the province’s most famous tourist haunts. I first came across their product while dining at Lae Lay Grill, a well-known restaurant in Ao Nang situated high on a hill with a sunset-certified panoramic vista overlooking the bay. Noticing a table top card menu advertising a pair humble home brews, our group decided to try one of each. The citrus and lemony Railay Weisse (4.5% ABV) is a yellowy-golden German style wheat beer that pours with a thick white foam, releasing fruity aromas but still delivering a refreshing malty beer taste. By contrast the amber hued Phi Phi IPA (5.5% ABV) combines the hoppy taste of an IPA with pleasant tropical fruit aromas and a hint of Pale Ale sweetness. It’s also not an overly hop-heavy IPA, which for some is a pleasant change from current trends. The men behind Croman Beer are Patipat ‘Tong’ Kannarong and Jiramit ‘Joe’ Gaysorn, who began selling their homebrew back in January of 2017. Since then they’ve refined both the taste and the labelling, and the slick packaging now features comical cavemen carrying beer barrels, bottles, and/or hops and barley. These primitive pitch men are a nod to the prehistoric cave paintings and other ancient relics (including humanoid bones) found in certain parts of Krabi province. Meanwhile, the decision to name the brews after two of the region’s best loved tourist destinations has proven to be a great marketing ploy. The beer is currently available at more than 300 outlets in southern Thailand—mainly Krabi, Phuket, and Phang Nga—as well as select locations in Bangkok. www.facebook.com/krabicraftbeer

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Railay Beach

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TRAVEL | where to stay krabi

Sengjan Garden

Five comfortable one-bedroom villas provide a relaxed and friendly stay

o the west of Krabi’s busy Ao Nang beach lies Noppharat Thara Beach—a long stretch of sandy shore bisected by a large creek running inland. The section of beach to the east of this creek is referred to as Long Beach, and although it’s blissfully peaceful, the only accommodation options are a few cheap and cheerful backpacker bungalows. However, a short drive up the hill sits Sengjan Garden, an enclosed enclave of five private, stand-alone villas that flank a shimmering 5 x 15 metre outdoor swimming pool. Conveniently located along the main road, it offers proximity to the area’s beaches as well as the creature comforts that make a holiday more enjoyable. This charming resort, which opened its doors in mid-February of this year, takes its name from the Thai sengjan tree, of which two are planted in the courtyard garden. And while there is plenty of greenery about, the villas themselves are a mix of cool greys and white, offset by dark wood accents in the bedroom and black marble countertops in the kitchenettes. All five of the 40 sq.m villas are equipped with

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kitchen facilities—sink, microwave, kettle, mini-fridge, cutlery, etc.—which makes them suitable for long stay guests as well. The villas all have separate bedroom quarters, each with a comfortable queen bed and a modern en suite bathroom, complete with toiletries, plush towels, and glassed in showers. Other villa amenities include air-conditioning, flatscreen TV, free Wi-Fi, room fan, and sliding glass doors that lead to a small outdoor terrace. The rooms also feature original Japanese woodblock art prints created by the co-owner of the resort; a lovely touch that makes each unit unique. Breakfast is included with the stay, and features bacon and eggs, toast, fresh marmalade, fresh fruit, grilled tomatoes, coffee, juice and more—all served on the shaded verandah of the main house. Light snacks are also available during the day, and an upright fridge has beer, sodas, and other beverages for sale. However, guests are encouraged to seek out local restaurants at lunch and dinner, and there are several good places close at hand.

By day the marble topped deck by the pool is the perfect spot for relaxing in a reclining lounger, and the views all around feature the extraordinary limestone karst scenery that typifies the landscape of Krabi, including nearby Naga Peak. Meanwhile, beyond its rear wall, the resort backs up against lush palm and rubber plantations, both of which keep the air cool and fresh. By night, however, the blackened sky is strewn with a blanket of stars that provide a dreamy lightshow if you choose—as I did—to end the day floating serenely in the swimming pool (which stays open till 10pm). by Bruce Scott NOTE: The resort is located just a short drive from many area highlights, including Long Beach, Klong Muang Beach, and the Khao Ngon Nak Nature Trail. Daily/weekly motorcycle rental can be easily arranged by the staff.

Sengjan Garden

241 Moo 6, Klong Sai Kao Soi 1, Ao Nang Tel: 08 838 0006 www.sengjangarden.com bangkok101.com

GLOW AO NANG KRABi

Bright new resort offers travelers a delightful holiday haven Opened in December 2017, GLOW Ao Nang Krabi is located on a vibrant, family-friendly street with a variety of local restaurants, hawker stalls and beachfront shops. The stylish resort offers 130 modern design accommodations, ranging from Superior, Deluxe and Family rooms, up to the spacious 36 sqm Family Quad. All come with a choice of pool, hillside, town or terrace views, as well as standard amenities of 40” ﬂat-screen TV, individual airconditioning, balcony or terrace with table and chairs, rain shower/hand shower, mini refrigerator, coffee and tea setup - and always complimentary high-speed WiFi.

sightseeing tours and activities are also available, such as scuba diving, snorkeling, island hopping and rock climbing. GLOW Ao Nang Krabi is situated 25 km from Krabi Airport (approx. 40 minute drive) and 144 km from Phuket International Airport. Airport transfers available on request.

Café au Lait restaurant serves up amazing breakfast buffets, featuring made-to-order egg and wafﬂe-cooking stations, hot dishes, meats, cheeses, pastries, juices, coffee station and more. Located poolside and featuring a regulation pool table, Chen’s Bar is open from 11am till midnight serving up cold cocktails and satisfying bites in a relaxing, laid-back setting. Other exciting facilities include two ﬁtness gyms, a kid’s club with PlayStation games, and a designated children’s pool adjacent to the main swimming pool. A variety of

199/46 Soi 8, Moo 3, Ao Nang, Krabi Tel: +66 75 818 877 Email: rsvn.aonang@glowhotels.com

www.glowhotels.com/ao-nang

TRAVEL | focus on koh lanta

Koh Lanta

Sunsets, sea gypsies, and scenic viewpoints Words and photos by Bruce Scott

hile technically part of Krabi province, the unassuming island of Koh Lanta, which measures 6 km wide, and stretches over 30 km from north to south, is a world unto itself. It’s a perfect mix of gorgeous sandy beaches—the majority located on the western “sunset” coast—stunning scenery, hilltop viewpoints, and an endless array of restaurants, bars, and guesthouses. There’s even a wealth of offshore coral reefs for divers and snorkellers. What it lacks, thankfully, is endless hordes of package tourists looking for a quick fix beachfront vacation, due in part to the fact that getting here requires a bit of extra effort. After touching down at the Krabi Airport, a combination of minivan and speedboat/ferry transport will get you to Koh Lanta Yai—yai means “big”, and most tourism favours the bigger of the two Koh Lantas—with the ferry service from Krabi making the 1-hour journey to Saladan Pier all day long. You can also get to the island from the mainland by car or motorcycle, connecting via Koh Lanta Noi car ferry.

The first thing most visitors see, when arriving here by ferry, is Ban Sala Dan, the bustling village market town that has sprung up around the pier. Directly to the south and west of the town is Klong Nin Beach, a wide strip of white sand stretching 2 km, and home to an attractive selection of high-end properties, including the Twin Lotus Resort & Spa. A little further south of that lies Hat Phra Ae (aka: Long Beach), which is a lively hub of activity.

Twin Lotus Resort & Spa

Sunset through the screw pines 5 6 | M AY 2 0 1 8

Still travelling along the island’s west coast you’ll soon reach the oft overlooked Nui Bay, which offers a peaceful, empty, and quite idyllic little beach (accessible via a steep footpath). Continuing south leads to Klong Hin Beach, a small sandy strectch of sand with considerably less accommodation and entertainment than the northern beaches. Overall it’s safe to say that the further south one travels on Koh Lanta, the quieter and less touristy it gets, which for many vacationers is a definite perk. And if you’re feeling really adventurous, make the full journey down the bangkok101.com

focus on koh lanta | TRAVEL island’s southernmost tip to visit the old lighthouse at Mu Ko Lanta National Park. Climbing up the rock cliff to reach the lighthouse is fairly easy, and the panoramic 360° vistas are glorious.

and became the island’s first settlers some 500 years ago. These seafarers are of Indo-Malay extraction, although some scholars suggest they are from Indian origin, and their lifestyle is simple. Their traditional language is spoken (not written), and their unique religious customs include animist beliefs. Not surprisingly they make excellent fishermen, and their close relationship with boats is well reflected in their Loy Rua (floating boat) festival, which takes place for three days and three nights during the full moon of the 6th and 11th months of the lunar calendar. The Sang Ga U sea gypsy village is the main one on the island—located a few kms south of Lanta Old Town—but visitors can also drop in on Ta Ba Liew village as well.

Koh Lanta Community Museum

While the west side of the island gets the spectacular sunsets, the east side of the island has it’s charms too, the main one being Ban Lanta (aka: Lanta Old Town). Situated halfway down the eastern coast, the town was the island’s original port and commercial centre, providing harbour for trading vessels sailing between the ports of Phuket, Penang, and Singapore. Take a scenic stroll down the main street and check out the well-preserved wooden stilt houses and shopfronts—some dating back over 100 years—many of which have been converted into charming seaside restaurants. Meanwhile, for the historically curious the Koh Lanta Community Museum, officially opened in 2007 and set in the old, 2-storey wooden district hall, has a variety historic relics, photos and artifacts to peruse.

Painting the hull of a longboat

Interestingly, Koh Lanta also—for some unexplained reason—has become the island of choice for visiting tourists from Sweden. This, along with many other unique characteristics, makes this little jewel in the Andaman crown well worth a prolonged visit.

ISLAND HOPPING

Local fishermen

The original inhabitants of Koh Lanta made their living from the sea, and some of the small fishing villages that remain on the island give visitors an insight into the traditional ways of life of these island communities. Visitors can marvel at the skill of the artists who paint elaborate colourful designs on the varnished hulls of their long boats, or just observing village life and sharing a smile with the villagers as they go about their daily routine. The island’s local population is primarily Muslim, but it is in reality a melting pot of many faiths and background, including small communities of “sea gypsies”. The proper term for this ethnic group is Chao-Le, and they are a seminomadic sea-faring people who roamed the Andaman Sea, bangkok101.com

Koh Rok Nai

Although the beaches of Koh Lanta are lovely, there’s an even more pristine enclave of white sand and blue ocean to be found on the islands of Koh Rok Nai and Koh Rok Nok. Day trips by speedboat are available to these islands—located about an hour’s boat ride south of Klong Dao—and the main draw here is swimming, sunbathing, and snorkelling, as the clear waters off the shores of both these islands have many coral outcroppings.

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Stunning water and beaches at Koh Lao Liang Photo courtesy of Tourism Authority of Thailand

TRANG 101 T

he Thai province of TRANG has geographical characteristics similar to those of Krabi—which it borders to the northwest—and Phang-Nga. These include beautiful coastal beaches, awe-inspiring inland limestone karst mountains, and breathtaking beach paradise islands. In fact, the provincial boundaries lay claim to an archipelago in the Andaman Sea with over 46 unspoiled coral-fringed tropical islands. Trang also has many of its own unique festivals and ceremonies throughout the year, the most famous of which is the UNDERWATER WEDDING event that take’s place on Valentine’s Day (February 14th) on the island of KOH KRADAN (see more on page 60). Other unique annual events include the Trang Cake Festival in August, the Trang Roast Pork Festival in September, the nine-day Trang Vegetarian Festival in October, and the Four-wheel Drive Vehicle Competition in November, which is an off-road circuit race in which more than 100 cars participate (driven by both Thai and international competitors). November is also the month for the more sedate Taphao Shell Festival, held on PAK MENG BEACH, which is aimed at promoting the conservation of nature and the environment. Despite the fact that Trang is almost 5,000 sq.km in size, much of it is ignored by tourists—making it one of southern Thailand’s best-kept secrets. Those who do venture here come primarily for the islands off the coast, however there is much to explore inland, including the historic cities of KANTANG and TRANG TOWN which offer charming architecture, a distinctive local cuisine, and—during certain festivals—colourful performances of Manohra, a traditional dance-drama unique to the region. Historically, Trang served as an important seaport, but in the early 20th century it also became the first place in Thailand to grow rubber trees. Vast green rubber plantations bear testimony to rubber’s continued importance to the local economy. Trang is known for its wickerwork and, especially, mats woven of bai toey (pandanus leaves). These are important bridal gifts in rural Trang, and are a common feature of rural households. The process of softening and drying the pandanus leaves before weaving takes many days, and the mats can be purchased as charming souvenirs. The province also has its own distinctive cotton-weaving styles, and the villages of NA PAW and NA MEUN SI are the most highly regarded sources for these fabrics, especially the intricate diamond-shaped patterns once reserved for nobility. These days, a slowly growing eco-tourism industry is also developing in Trang, and luxury properties like the stunning ANANTARA SI KAO RESORT are providing upscale accommodations from which to experience the breathtaking natural beauty of this pristine province. Bordering the Anantara resort is a long, curving sand bay, lined with sea pines, that belongs to the HAT CHAO MAI NATIONAL PARK, which preserves over 230 sq.km of nearby islands, beaches, sea and forest. Offshore, the KOH PHETRA NATIONAL MARINE PARK adds protection to over two dozen additional Trang islands, some of which host sea turtles during nesting season. Shallow seagrass beds here also provide a rare refuge for the dugong—one of the world’s most endangered marine mammals— while rich coral reefs offer excellent snorkelling and diving opportunities.

TRAVEL | see & do trang

Traversing Trang

From rubber tree relics, to far-out festivals, to breathtaking beaches By Joe Cummings/CPA Media Photos courtesy of Tourism Authority of Thailand

Museum mansion

HERITAGE: Historically, Trang’s seafaring trade was centred at Kantang, a port at the mouth of the Trang River where it flows into the Andaman Sea. The port flourished between the 7th and 12th centuries, when it was an important stopover for ocean-going sampans sailing between Trang and the Straits of Malacca. After Trang governor Phraya Ratsadanupradit Mahisaraphakdi planted the first rubber tree in Thailand in Kantang in 1899, the province soon transformed from a simple relay point for goods produced elsewhere, to an important producer itself. That original rubber tree, the oldest in the country, still stands today next to the large two-storey wooden villa where the rubber baron once resided. Now open to the public as a museum, the house displays the influential man’s rooms, original furnishings, historic photos and documents, and other early 20th-century artefacts. In 1913 Governor Mahisaraphakdi ordered the construction of a rail link between Kantang and Trang, a short-line train which still operates once a day. Kantang’s train station, one of Thailand’s oldest, is a charming collection of Victorian-inspired painted teak buildings.

FESTIVALS: Trang also has many of its own unique festivals and ceremonies throughout the year, the most famous of which is the Underwater Wedding event that take’s place on Valentine’s Day (February 14th) on the island of Koh Kradan. Each year several dozen brides and grooms don scuba gear and descend to an underwater alter amidst the coral reefs, exchanging their vows in front of the Trang District Officer. How the couples—all of whom are required to be certified divers—manage to say “I do” underwater has never been fully explained, but the ceremony has made it into the Guinness Book of Records as the World’s Largest Underwater Wedding. Before and after the scuba ceremony, the couples are paraded along the coast in a flotilla of motorboats, this time wearing traditional Thai costumes. Other unique annual events include the Trang Cake Festival in August, the Trang Roast Pork Festival in September, the nine-day Trang Vegetarian Festival in October, and the Four-wheel Drive Vehicle Competition in November, which is an off-road circuit race in which more than 100 cars participate (driven by both Thai and international competitors). November is also the month for the more sedate Taphao Shell Festival, held on Pak Meng Beach, which is aimed at promoting the conservation of nature and the environment. Roast Pork Festival

FOREST CANOPY WALK The vast Thung Khai Botanical Gardens (also known as the Trang Peninsular Botanical Gardens) in Amphoe Yan Ta Khao makes for an easy day trip from Trang Town. Facilities include a botanical garden, an herbal garden, a botanical library, and a plant museum, but the main draw here is taking a stroll along the five narrow suspension footbridges that pierce through the lowland jungle canopy. The bridges are connected to each other by observation towers, the tallest of which ascend to a height of 18 metres, and together they form a 175-meter-long aerial walkway. The park is open daily from 8am till 5pm, and admission is free. Accommodation is also available if you wish to stay overnight (call 07 528 0166).

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see & do trang | TRAVEL

Kantang Train Station

Koh Kradan

Emerald Cave

BEACHES & ISLANDS: A string of delightful sandy beaches, coves and islands, dotted here and there with the occasional limestone cliff, are found along the coast of Trang province. It’s pleasantly relaxed, quite scenic at times and an up-and-coming area that has already attracted the attention of four- and five-star resorts. The following beaches and islands are listed from north to south along the coast. In the Si Kao district, 39 km from Trang Town, sits Hat Pak Meng—a long, broad, sandy beach near the small village of Pak Meng. The waters are usually shallow and calm, even in the rainy season. A couple of hundred metres offshore are several scenic limestone rock formations, including a very large one with caves. Several vendors and a few restaurants offer fresh seafood, and a long promenade and sea wall runs along the middle and southern sections of the beach. The island of Koh Ngai, is actually part of Krabi province to the north, but it’s most accessible from Pak Meng. It’s a fairly small island, covering not quite 5km, but the beaches are fine white sand, the water is clear and sparkling, and coral rings virtually the entire island. Hat Chang Lang has a 2km-long beach that is very flat and shallow, and offers the usual strip of casuarina-backed sand. It’s a very peaceful place. At the southern end of the beach, where the beachfront road turns inland, is the headquarters of Hat Jao Mai National Park, a 231 sq.km natural reserve. In various parts of the park you may see

endangered dugong (also called manatees or sea cows), and rare black-necked storks, as well as more common species such as sea otters, macaques, langurs, wild pigs, pangolins, Pacific reef-egrets, white-bellied sea eagles, little herons and monitor lizards. Camping is permitted throughout the park. The island of Koh Muk was once a lovely unspoiled paradise… until the bungalow operators moved in and went construction crazy. This is particularly prevalent on the island’s best beach, Hat Sai Yao (or Hat Farang), on its western side. The general mood on this island, located nearly opposite Hat Chang Lang on the mainland, is still pretty laid-back though. There is some good snorkelling offshore and rubber plantations and forests to hike through in the interior. Near the northern end is the popular Emerald Cave, a beautiful limestone tunnel that can be entered by boat during low tide. The tunnel stretches for 80m to emerge in an open pool of emerald hue, hence the cave’s name. Between Ko Muk and Ko Ngai are the small karst islets of Koh Cheuk and Koh Waen, which have good snorkelling and small sandy beaches. Southwest of Koh Muk is Koh Kradan, the most beautiful of the islands that belong to Hat Jao Mai National Park, with a gorgeous unspoiled beach at Hat Yong and decent coral reefs off the eastern shore. It’s a popular destination for snorkelling and diving tours. Part of the island was excluded from the national park to allow local people to establish coconut and rubber plantations—and

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TRAVEL | see & do trang

Koh Libong

resorts. Camping on the island is possible with permission from the national park staff. Between Hat Chang Lang in the north, and Hat Jao Mai in the south are two very long white-sand beaches separated by limestone cliffs that are riddled with caves. Hat Yong Ling is a pretty bay lined with casuarina trees, and there are snack stands on weekends. Tidal pools sit off the beach at the base of limestone cliffs, and you can camp nearby if you check in with the park officers first. Another curving beach nearby, Hat San, can only be approached via a large cave that connects the two beaches. The striking karst formation that rises to the north of the beach resembles a shark’s dorsal fin. A few restaurants sell the usual Thai beach food. National park fees apply here. Hat Yao is another long, casuarina-backed strip of sand, with a rocky headland at the southern end that is pockmarked with caves. There’s also good snorkelling around the island immediately offshore. But the nicest beach in the area is tiny Hat Apo, hidden away among the cliffs. You can get here by long-tail or wade around from the sandy spit in front of the Sinchai Chao Mai Resort. Trang’s largest island is Koh Libong, just 15 minutes by long-tail from Hat Yao. The low-lying island is home to a small Muslim fishing community, and has just two resorts on lovely isolated beaches on the western coast. The sensitive development here is a real breath of fresh air compared to other islands on the bay. The island has its own wildlife sanctuary—the Libong Archipelago Wildlife Reserve—which is a no-hunting zone located inland from Laem Ju Hoi, a cape that juts out from the island’s east coast. Many species of birds from northern 6 2 | M AY 2 0 1 8

Asia and Siberia migrate here each year to pass the winter. Koh Libong is also surrounded by a veritable garden of seagrass, the main food of the dugong. Unfortunately, sightings are rare because this mammal is an endangered species that was hunted in the past, while nowadays boats cause fatal injuries to these sea creatures.

Koh Muk

Finally, Koh Sukon is a friendly and peaceful mostly Muslim island that is charmingly criss-crossed with a small network of paved roads and dirt trails that wind through water-buffalo-dotted rice fields, swaying coconut palms, shady rubber tree plantations, and tiny villages. A small hilltop provides good views of the island, whose 2,500 inhabitants subsist mainly on fishing and rubber cultivation. There’s limited electricity, and just a handful of cars or trucks chug on the roads (most transport is by motorcycle). bangkok101.com

focus on trang | TRAVEL

Vintage Village

Trang City may be one of Southern Thailand’s best-kept secrets By Luc Citrinot

t may not be well known by tourists, but anyone visiting the historical district of Trang City will definitely fall in love with the laid-back, vintage style way of life of this town. In 2015 the city celebrated its 100th anniversary as the capital of Trang province, commemorating the date the provincial seat of government was effectively moved from Kantang—the former capital located 20 km to the south—back to 1915. In many respects, Trang is closer to Penang (Malaysia) or Phuket Town. Most of the inhabitants descend from the Chinese immigrants from Southern China who came to work in the port area, as well as in the then burgeoning tin industry. Today, Trang’s population is probably around 80 percent of Chinese origin. The most famous representative of the Chinese-Thai community from Trang is former Prime Minister Concrete clock tower Chuan Leekpai. His house is located in the centre of the town, with the garden surrounding his property being open to the public. With a bit of luck you might even meet him strolling around the grounds of his home.

Old Town Cafe & Bistro

and the market—visitors will discover many ‘Peranakan’ style houses (Sino-Malay style, also called “SinoPortuguese” in Thailand). Over the last five years, many of these properties have been renovated, receiving a fresh coat of paint. Local artists have also painted frescoes and murals on these historic abodes. Many buildings in the old town have also been turned into trendy coffee shops—hipster to a degree, but still retaining their vintage atmosphere. Others serve as simple but atmospheric hotels and guesthouses. Most of Trang’s historic houses are concentrated around Kantang, Sathanee, and Ratchadamnoen roads. Vintage clothing and accessories can be found everywhere in local shops.

Three-wheeled tuk tuks

Old Town Cafe & Bistro

Taking a leisurely walk alking around the streets of the historical centre of Trang—around the rail station bangkok101.com

Trang is also proud of its distinctive three-wheeled tuk-tuk vehicles, which also seem to come directly from a movie made in the early 70s. Finally, don’t miss Trang’s iconic civic monument—a clock tower made of concrete which was erected in the late 50s (or early 60s). Trang is definitely vintage, and vintage is trendy these days, so why not to spend a few days in Trang Town to get a feel for what Thailand used to be like 40 years ago. M AY 2 0 1 8 | 6 3

TRAVEL | upcountry now

INTHAKIN CITY PILLAR FESTIVAL May 11-17

Held each May, the Inthakin City Pillar Festival (also known as Sai Khan Dok) is a large celebration that begins with a procession around the old town of Chiang Mai, in which a Buddha image called Phra Fon Saen Haa (the Five Hundred Thousand Raindrop Buddha) is carried. After this, the devotees are allowed to venerate both the Buddha and the City Pillar, and to place flowers, candles, and incense in each of 28 bowls laid out in the temple. Afterwards it’s time for dancing, musical performances, carnival games, and plenty of Thai food for sale all around.

BUN BANG FAI ROCKET FESTIVAL May 12-13

Held each year in the Phaya Thaen Park in Yasothon province, the ancient Bun Bang Fai Festival is associated with the Thai traditional belief that the gods will hear the farmers’ prayers for plentiful rain if they create noisy rockets, or Bang Fai, to send them to the heavens. On the festival day, beautiful rockets are paraded to the launch site, while the local people dress in colourful traditional costumes and perform dances. When the rockets are fired, one by one, loud cheers and music accompany them, and the rocket that reaches the greatest height is declared the festival’s winner!

HUA HIN MARATHON May 13

Managed by the Preserve Hua Hin Group—an organization engaged in community environmental and social education programmes—the Hua Hin Marathon race route starts and finishes at the Buddhist temple Wat Khao Krailart in Khao Takiab. The routes are based on the different marathon categories, and include running on the beach. Full Marathon (42 km) and Half Marathon (21 km) runners can also enjoy an after race massage by Chiva-Som Health Resorts, another of the race’s sponsor organizations. For details regarding registration fees, and all other information, visit: www.huahinmarathon.com.

PHRA THAT HARIPHUNCHAI FEST May 29

Located in Lamphun, the Phra That Hariphunchai temple was built some 800 years ago. Holy relics were enshrined in a massive 46-metre tall golden chedi. To pay homage to this site, one of the most sacred monuments in Northern Thailand, the annual Song Nam Phra That Hariphunchai Festival has long attracted devoted Buddhists in Lamphun and nearby provinces, as well as curious visitors. Besides the religious ceremony there’s also a cultural performance, giant drum competition, sacred water pilgrimage, and nail-covered dance shows known as Fon Lep. 6 4 | M AY 2 0 1 8

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GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai

Charming island resort on a private beach in Phang Nga Situated along a beautiful 300-meter stretch of white sand, GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai offers a tropical retreat with stunning sunsets and just steps away from the sparkling Andaman Sea. The idyllic setting features 40 villas consisting of TwoBedroom Pool Villas, One-Bedroom Pool Villas, Beachfront Pool Villas, Deluxe Pool Villas, Deluxe Villas and 23 Superior Villas. All accommodations have a rustic island style with great views and standard amenities: 32” TV with CD/DVD player, individual air-conditioning, ceiling fan, wooden deck with table/chairs, tropical bathroom with outdoor rain shower, mini refrigerator, coffee and tea setup - and always free high-speed WiFi.

Other facilities include a ﬁtness center, yoga classes and an outdoor swimming pool that overlooks the private beach and features poolside food and drink service. Relaxing therapeutic massage and soothing treatments can be enjoyed in air-conditioned comfort at the poolside sala, while the more adventurous can seek out a variety of exciting activities, including sightseeing tours, diving and snorkeling, ﬁshing, kayaking and island hopping. Featuring nature at the heart of it all, the relaxed and romantic environment makes an ideal setting for the most memorable wedding ceremonies and special occasions. Accommodations available for up to 80 people and welltrained staff can assist in the planning of every special detail. Enjoy the natural side of Phuket at GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai.

Waves restaurant provides beachfront dining at its best. Exotic Thai specialties, BBQ seafood and international favorites are served with panoramic sea views and sultry breezes. For a more intimate experience, a romantic dining deck is perched above the rolling waves in a private cove; perfect for couples and private parties. Chen’s Tiki Bar is an open-air, breezy beachside spot serving tropical drinks and delicious fare with comfy beanbags chairs and board games – the best place on island for happy hour sundowners and sunsets!

99 Moo 3, Prunai, Koh Yao Yai, Phang Nga Tel: +66 87 808 3838 Email: rsvn.kohyaoyai@glowhotels.com

www.glowhotels.com/elixir-koh-yao-yai

ART

| ART & CULTURE

Prelude

Thai artist penetrates the veils of a society driven by discourse and myth

aving spent more than three years creating fantastic works of art that are capable of expressing his ideas through paintings, sculptures, and installations, artist WITTAWAT TONGKEAW returns to the Bangkok art scene with his latest solo exhibition, entitled PRELUDE. The subject matter in this series is still an investigation into the systems and regimes in Thailand—a place that is rich in beliefs and faiths. Since Thailand’s society is driven primarily by discourse and myth, the artist invites audiences to explore a bit the various phenomena occurring within Thailand’s social strata. It’s an exploration that weaves its way through a variety of symbolic objects, as if to remind people to set forth questions pertaining to their own beliefs… and of the possible consequences of those beliefs. As the artist reveals in his own artistic statement: “In a battle of thought, attempting to contend for a meaning, in-between moving forward and pulling back to reverse, they established a canny era in terms of thought and action. Among chaotic rumours within the discourse battle, no one knows whether the present is the dawn or the twilight, or even the midnight that is full of obscuring darkness” Wittawat Tongkeaw was born in 1974, in Bangkok, Thailand. He graduated with a BFA, MFA, and Ph.D. in Visual Arts from the Faculty of Painting, Sculpture and Graphic Arts, Silpakorn University. With his outstanding skill, Tongkeaw has won plenty of art awards in his home country. His works have been purchased and prized by Thai and international collectors, as well as significant institutes, including major banks in Thailand. The social crisis and political unrest that has been happening consistently in Thailand for over decade (and up until the present), has had an impact on the artist, cementing his intention to reflect on this systemic chronic problem once again through his unique artworks. PRELUDE runs from MAY 19 to JULY 1 at SUBHASHOK THE ARTS CENTRE (Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39). Viewing hours are Tuesday to Saturday, from 10am till 5:30pm, and Sundays from noon till 6pm. For more information, call 02 662 0299. www.facebook.com/sacbangkok

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

MAY 5-JUNE 23 Official Function

Kathmandu Photo Gallery 87 Soi Pan, North Silom Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Tel: 02 234 6700 | www.kathmanduphotobkk.com

Through the lens of Greek-born, self-taught photographer Pericles Boutos we are not complicit in voyeurism but participants. In this latest exhibition, immaculate beings in a carefully-staged world appear garbed in black tie and national dress, performing a grand charade for the good of their country. There is no judgment amidst the chatter and the tinkling of glasses, only exquisitely observed moments of odd beauty and human truth in the theatre of diplomacy. Interestingly, Mr. Boutos has also had a career as a professional diplomat since 1986, and is currently the Ambassador of Greece in Bangkok.

UNTIL MAY 13 Strange Loops II: Confusion is Next Gallery VER

2198/10-11 Narathiwat Soi 22 Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, noon-6pm Tel: 02 103 4067 | www.facebook.com/galleryver

This show, by artist Pathompon ‘Mont’ Tesprateep, is a visual and thematic exploration of the idea of “mental time travel”, and the mechanisms of memory which can shift between remembering the past and simulating the future; between a backward glance into a dark history, and being lost in an imagined oneiric dystopia. Combining loops, repetitions, and layering, the focal point of this structure is the portrayal of nomadic noise musician Thom AssajanJakgawan (aka: Thom AJ Madson). In a film, he appears as a fictionalized version of himself, living in a fragile state, a collapsed country.

UNTIL MAY 31 Objectivland

Case Space Revolution 2F, Broccoli Revolution, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 662 5002 | www.facebook.com/casespacerevolution

This exhibition showcases the work of Tua Pen Not, a Thai artist based in Chiang Mai who blurs the limitation of physical ability, and re-evaluates an abundance of everyday objects through the eyes of innocence and action. The idea is to break down the overarching paradigm of human thoughts and experiences by giving an impression of fragmentation through the “life” of everyday objects, which becomes a form of semiotic analysis of foreign matter. The transformation offers new functions and forms, and offers likewise a reincarnation of all those defunct objects… liberated by their randomness. 6 8 | M AY 2 0 1 8

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

UNTIL JUNE 16 Spotlights on Tim-Street Porter House of Lucie, Centre for Photography

Ekkamai Soi 8, Sukhumvit Soi 63 Viewing hours: Tue-Fri, 11am-6pm, Sat, 12pm-5pm Tel: 095 478 9987 | www.luciefoundation.org/house-of-lucie

British born Tim Street-Porter is an internationally recognized photographer who began his career in London and now lives and works in Los Angeles. He is considered unique among photographers in that he exhibits an architect’s eye for shooting interiors, but also has an interest in writing about design (and has worked for a variety of design and travel magazine). This exhibition presents a selection of his most famous works, with a focus on the clean lines and integration of architecture with nature most typical of mid-modern design. In 1997, the LA Times described him as “one of LA’s coolest people”.

UNTIL JUNE 19 A Painting Exhibition with No Title PT-Gallery, by P. Tendercool

48-58, Soi 30 Charoen Krung Rd. Viewing hours: Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Tel: 02 266 4344 | www.ptendercool.com

Somboon Hormtientong is a Bangkok-born artist who observes the world he lives in and travels in. He encounters. He registers. He contemplates. He feels. The resulting fusion ends up as energy, which transforms into urges. Thus Somboon cannot but interpret, translate, and modulate these feelings. Feelings then become lines—still, chaotic, rhythmic—while energy becomes colours—complementing and opposing. It all merges into compositions, and ultimately “creations”. However, they exist without title, so as to not define. Note that 15 other works by Somboon Hormtientong will be on display at Numthong Gallery. Tataki with saffron sweetbreads and Padron pepper

LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

Endangered Species The days are numbered for Bangkok’s historic Dusit Zoo Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

ike many of Bangkok’s finest modern institutions, the Dusit Zoo was born from the will of King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) at the end of the 19th century. However, it was not originally a zoo, but a botanical garden. The King had been impressed by botanical gardens he visited around Southeast Asia, including the Lands Plantentuin te Buitenzorg—the National Botanical Garden in Buitenzorg (today Kebun Raya Bogor in Indonesia), which is Southeast Asia’s oldest botanical park. Rama V was also taken with the Singapore Botanical Garden, which had opened in 1859, and one of the reasons he enjoyed such institutions was that they combined relaxation with educational purposes. The botanical garden in Dusit was thus created around 1895, on land east of the Premprachakorn Canal and across from Chitralada Palace. The grounds included an artificial lake, surrounded by vast gardens with rare trees and bushes being planted to form a city forest. The area was, at first, only used by the King and the Royal Family,

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who enjoyed the scenic vista over other palaces and the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall. In the Glass House, a charming pavilion built around 1920 in late Art Nouveau style, there is some explanation about the history of the garden, as well as some old photographs of the zoo. During the later reign of King Rama VII the garden was further expanded, but it was only after 1932, and the change from absolute to constitutional monarchy, that the government decided to establish the area as a public park, and transform the grounds into a zoological garden (with royal permission of King Rama VIII of course). To join the small herd of deer, which had populated the garden since its beginnings—they were brought back by King Rama V from Java—Bangkok’s municipality transferred birds, crocodiles, and monkeys from other royal gardens, such as Suan Umporn and Suan Saranrom, over to the new institution. A request was also made for royal elephants from the palace to be shown at the zoo on Sundays. After the transformation of the garden into a fullbangkok101.com

museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

fledged zoo, the area was officially open to the public on March 18th, 1938. It was then that it was officially named ‘Dusit Zoo’. Since 1954 the zoo has been under the control of the Zoological Park Organization, which manages six zoos and elephant parks all across Thailand. Nowadays there are some 1,600 animals to be admired at the zoo and many have become true stars, including “Petch”, the first albino barking deer in the world, and “Mae Mali”, a 52 year-old hippopotamus. Other celebrity-status critters include: white tigers; white lions; elephants; Axis deer (among the “historical animals” brought by King Rama V in from Indonesia); dozens of species of turtles; giraffes which can be fed by visitors; Red-Shanked Douc Langur monkeys (some of the most beautiful species of these monkeys in the world); and the largest Asiatic black bear to be found in Thailand. Unfortunately for history buffs, in October of last year there was an announcement about the possible relocation of the zoo to Pathum Thani. Then, in December, bangkok101.com

newspapers reported that the Zoological Park Organization had announced the creation of working groups to move forward the plan to close Dusit Zoo in Bangkok, and relocate it to a larger site in Pathum Thani’s Thanya Buri district. The extensive plot of land the new site will occupy was graciously granted by King Maha Vajiralonkorn (Rama X), and is almost three times larger in area than the current zoo. The plan for the new zoological garden will be to create landscapes similar to the natural environment of the animals, and to provide modern edutainment facilities for visitors. The Pathum Thani Zoo might be opened in 2019, at the earliest, but in the meantime making one last visit to the original zoo is recommended for those wanting to give it a final furry farewell. INFORMATION: The Dusit Zoo is located on Uthong Nai Rd, and is open daily from 8am to 6pm. Entrance is B150 for adults and B70 for children (Thai citizens pay, respectively, B100 and B20). M AY 2 0 1 8 | 7 1

ART & CULTURE | special report

French Fest This month’s line up of La Fête events offers everything from circus to cinema By Bruce Scott

Sarabande

rancophiles, and culture vultures in general, have plenty to look forward to this month as the ongoing La Fête French cultural expo shifts into high gear with a series of interesting scheduled exhibits, performances, and film screenings. Many, but not all, of the events will be taking place at the headquarters of the Alliance Française Bangkok, located at 179 Wireless Rd, including a free photo exhibit entitled ‘Sport & Tradition’ which begins on May 10th (see pg. 74).

120 Beats Per Minute The May series itself kicks off on Saturday the 5th at the Alliance Française building with a special concert by Berywam, a beat-box styled a capella vocal quartet that promise to amaze audiences with their polyphonic sounds (see pg. 11). Later in the month, on the 19th, the AF Bangkok will host a screening of the 2017 film 120 Beats Per Minute, directed by Robin Campillo. The film is a passionately acted ensemble movie centred around the group Act Up, an activist organization that brought public awareness to the AIDS epidemic in France—and worldwide—during the late 80s and early 90s. The 6pm screening will be preceded by a panel discussion at 4pm, featuring people who were involved in the creation of Act Up. The evening will then conclude with an 8:30pm after party. 7 2 | M AY 2 0 1 8

Other AF-hosted events include a staging of Moliere’s famous play The Misanthrope, as performed by the Comédie-Française theatre troupe from France. The play is at 4pm and tickets are B200 (B100 for AF members and students). In addition, during the entire month of May the Alliance Française will host a photo and film exhibit entitled 1968: A Student Revolt, which looks back on the simultaneous youth uprisings in France, Thailand, and in many other parts of the world. Running alongside the Alliance Française’s schedule there are several La Fête events being staged in other parts of the city. From May 18th to 20th the Flaque Cie Defracto circus troupe will be performing in Studio 4 of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) as part of the Bangkok International Children Theatre Festival (BICT) which runs from May 15th to 27th. Tickets for Flaque are B650 for adults, B250 for children, and the performances are at 2pm (11am on the 19th). Another family-friendly BICT Fest/La Fête event is Sarabande, an art piece for cellist and juggler that will take place at the Sodsai Panthumkolmol Flaque Theatre Studio (254 Phaya Thai Rd) from the 25th to the 27th. Tickets are B650 for adults, B250 for children, and the performances are at 7pm (2pm on the 27th). For more information about La Fête, visit the official website at: www.french-highlights.com. bangkok101.com

cinema scope | ART & CULTURE

Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott

Kincsem: Bet For Revenge

Mountains May Depart

We Are X

Seed: The Untold Story

Insects in the Backyard

Mission Impossible

ay means movies, and this month the big event is a screening on Saturday May 19th at TK Park of Kincsem: Bet For Revenge, a 2017 box-office smash from Hungary, directed by Gabor Herendi. It’s a lavish and opulent production that centres around the exciting world of horse racing, and its style has been compared to the over-the-top films of acclaimed director Baz Luhrmann. The film is supported by the Embassy of Hungary, who will provide drinks and snacks afterwards, and the Hugarian Ambassador, HE Dr. Peter Jakab, will introduce the film. The Thailand Knowledge (TK) Park is located on the 8th floor of CentralWorld (999/9 Rama 1 Rd), the screening begins at 4pm, and tickets are only B20 each. www.tkpark.or.th. Meanwhile, over at the Foreign Correspondent’s Club of Thailand (518/5 Ploenchit Rd, Maneeya Center, Penthouse), there are four special film screenings this month which are part of the ongoing Monday night FCCT documentary series. All films are shown with Thai subtitles, and a discussion follows each screening. The films begin at 7pm, and admission is free for members (B150 for nonmembers). There’s also an optional buffet for B250. The series begins on May 7th with Seed: The Untold Story (2016), about the passionate seed keepers who are protecting a 12,000-year-old food legacy that is teetering on the brink of extinction. On May 14th don’t miss Tomorrow We Disappear (2014) which recounts the fate of the residents of New Dehli’s Kathputli colony of magicians and puppeteers, as they are relocated to make room for bangkok101.com

new development. The series continues on May 21st with We Are X (2016), a music documentary about the glam rock band X Japan. Finally, the May series concludes on May 28th with Crumb (1994), filmmaker Terry Zwigoff’s complex but affectionate portrait of his longtime friend, underground cartoonist Robert Crumb. It’s an incredibly riveting, and utterly compelling two hours of cinema. www.fccthai.com Other notable presentations this month include those at the Bangkok Screening Room (Sala Daeng Soi 1). Titles showing on various dates in May include: Insects in the Backyard (2010), the controversial Thai film directed by Tanwarin Sukkhapisit; Paris, Texas (1984), an indie cinema classic by Wim Wenders; Mountains May Depart (2015), from Chinese director Zhangke Jia; and a special reworking of Sergei Eisenstein’s 1925 silent film classic Battleship Potemkin, with a new soundtrack composed in 2005 by 80s synth pop band the Pet Shop Boys. www.bkksr.com On a lighter note, the Westin Grande Sukhumvit hotel (259 Sukhumvit Rd) presents a Mission Impossible movie marathon—numbers 1 to 5 in the series, shown back-to-back—on Saturday May 26th, starting at 2pm. You can order food and drinks during the films, and different DJ’s will entertain between screenings. The event is a lead up to the release of #6 in the popular MI film franchise, and tickets for the five screenings and after party are just B1,000 online, or B1,200 at the door. www.thailandeventguide.com M AY 2 0 1 8 | 7 3

Art & Culture

Photo Feature

Sport & Tradition Compelling photographs document unique and unusual sporting traditions across the globe This month, as part of the ongoing La Fête French cultural expo (see pg. 72), the Alliance Française Bangkok (179 Wireless Rd) and the Embassy of France to Thailand are presenting a free photo exhibit entitled ‘Sport & Tradition’. The show runs from May 10th to the 31st.

These arresting photos go beyond the sports news covered in real time every day by AFP, and bring to life around 20 traditional ancestral sports or games as well as some that have sprung up from more recent customs. They include the competitions, pre-game preparations, behind-the-scenes action, and the drama. Observe agile horsemen from the green valleys of Kyrgyzstan sitting alongside jockeys from the elegant Piazza del Campo in the mediaeval Italian city of Siena. Check out Turkish wrestlers, their bodies glistening with olive oil, grapple side-by-side with the Kushti fighters in India and Pakistan—covered from head to toe in dirt. And marvel at the water buffalo races of Indonesia, inspired by work on the farm, which bring to mind the acrobatics performed by the cowboys of the Wild West. Also depicted in the collection are some of the iconic sports of the Orient, including dragon boat racing, sumo wrestling, and Thailand’s own sepak takraw.

Photo by Gabriel Bouys / ©AFP

The photos on display have been assembled by Agence France-Presse (AFP), bringing together in one show stunning images taken by AFP photographers around the world. The collection was created by the Tokyo AFP bureau with the support of Nikon, a longtime AFP partner. After showing in Japan the exhibit is now making its way through other countries.

Sumo Wrestling, Japan: The ancient sport of sumo is thought to date back 2,000 years. Even today it retains many Shinto religious overtones, such as wrestlers purifying the ring with salt before matches. ABOUT AFP: AFP is a global news agency delivering fast, accurate, in-depth coverage of the events shaping our world from conflicts to politics, economics, sports, entertainment and the latest breakthroughs in health, science, and technology.

Photo by Oli Scarff / ©AFP Photo by Indranil Mukherjee / ©AFP

Coal Carrying, England: Competitors haul a 50 kg sack of coal for around one kilometre—mainly uphill. The annual race, which started in 1963 in the Northern English town of Gawthorpe, is held on Easter Monday.

Yoga, India: Based on archeological evidence, Indian scholars believe yoga dates back to about 5,000 years ago. Today it’s a multi-billion dollar worldwide industry, but its fundamentals are still based on ancient traditions.

Dragon Boat Racing, Hong Kong: In this ancient sportâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;practised for over 2,000 years in Southern Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; teams of paddlers cram into longboats, adorned with dragon heads and tails, and race across the water.

Photo by Mike Clarke / Â©AFP

Photo by Sonny Tumbelaka / ©AFP Photo by Aamir Qureishi / ©AFP

Makepung, Indonesia: This sport of water buffalo racing began in Bali in the 1960s, and runs from July to November. Participants stand on flag-adorned carts while a pair of buffaloes pulls the vehicle along at top speed.

Bull Racing, Pakistan: In this centuries-old sport the jockeys—mostly local farmers—balance precariously on wooden planks, behind a pair of rampaging bulls, as they hurtle down a dusty race course.

Photo by Christophe Archambault / ÂŠAFP Photo by Photo by Carl De Souza / ÂŠAFP

Sepak Takraw, Thailand: This centuries-old sport is popular throughout Southeast Asia. Two teams of three players each attempt to lob a grapefruit sized rattan ball over the net using only their feet (no hands allowed).

Kushti Wrestling, India & Pakistan: In this ancient form of wrestling the male competitors wear only loincloths, and smear their bodies with oil. Some training gyms still have traditional mud and dirt floors.

Spectacular seafood and more at Dusit Thani’s ‘Beyond Boundaries’ weekend brunch

| FOOD & DRINK

AROY boundary breaking brunch buffet

It’s welcome news that the historic DUSIT THANI BANGKOK hotel will not begin its teardown and rebuild until January of 2019, which means there’s still plenty of time to enjoy the new weekend brunches at BENJARONG restaurant. And this is no ordinary brunch! Entitled ‘Beyond Boundaries’, it’s a unique concept that celebrates the art of social dining with extended operating hours. Food service runs from 11:30am till 5pm, and the day ends with selected drinks and canapes from 5pm till 7pm (especially lovely on the hotel’s outdoor terrace by the waterfall). The exquisite brunch journey includes fresh organic salads, sushi, premium seafood on ice, grilled fish and lobster, and a tempting array of main courses cooked to order. Prices start at B2,900++, but for B3,600++ you get free flow beer, wine, and sparkling wines, while B4,900++ also includes free flow Taittinger champagne. www.dusit.com/dtbk

the french connection French restaurants are nothing new in Bangkok, but that doesn’t stop the proliferation of new French restaurants. FRENCH ST. is now occupying the space in O.P. Garden (Soi Charoenkrung 36) formerly held by a Mango Tree outlet. Here, Michelin-trained chef FREDERIC GUERIN celebrates the cuisine of Provence—the province of his birth—and conveniently this restaurant is situated just a short saunter from the French Embassy. Meanwhile, BRASSERIE 9 has established itself nicely in its new digs on Sathorn Soi 6 after pulling up stakes at Asiatique. Expect the same authentic French cuisine with a modern twist, including classics like bouillabaisse, foie gras, and the signature Entrecôte Café de Paris. www.facebook.com/frenchstbangkok • www.brasserie9.com

the almighty avocado Back in March THE HASS BISTRO opened on Sukhumvit Soi 49, with an all-day-dining menu dedicated to avocados. The two-storey, earthy, laid back resto has a kitchen and juice bar on the main floor, and a mezzanine above—the avocado garden zone, as it’s known—with traditional seating, sofas, and low tables with cushions. Meanwhile the avocados are delivered from New Zealand, and served in every imaginable form; from burger, to smoothie, to cheesecake. And in other avocado news, April saw the opening of ABOKA-TEI (3/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39), a 16-seat avocado-centric omakase restaurant that claims to only use avocados harvested from a single farm in Japan. Let the battle begin… www.facebook.com/thehassbistro

foodies, get ready… Several new restaurants have thrown open their doors this past couple of months, starting with MALLARD (16, Sukhumvit Soi 49) a new bright and homey Asian-meets-Western kitchen headed by SEMET MEHMET, a Turkish chef with Michelin restaurant experience. And over on Sathorn’s Soi Suan Phlu, SAAWAAN (meaning “heaven” in Thai) sees two of the city’s young talents—Chef de Cuisine SUJIRA ‘AOM’ PONGMORN and Chef Pâtissier ARISARA ‘PAPER’ CHONGPHANITKUL—serving up a seasonal 10-course tasting menu with each dish representing a technique or concept found in traditional Thai cooking. As well as wine pairings, they also offer a deliciously varied tea pairings. www.mallardbangkok.com • www.facebook.com/saawaanbkk

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FOOD & DRINK | afternoon tea meal deals

Sakura Blossom Afternoon Tea at Up & Above Bar

The Okura Prestige Bangkok | 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com The Okura Prestige’s talented pastry chefs have taken floral inspiration to create a special Sakura Blossom Afternoon Tea at Up & Above Bar. Indulge in exquisite savoury delights as well as an array of sweet treats, plus scones with artisan clotted cream, jams, and marmalade. Available daily until June 30th, from 2pm to 5pm, this tea set is priced at B1,190 inclusive of rich Illy coffee or freshly brewed premium Saro and Mariage Frères teas for two persons. For B1,690 you get sake (250 ml) or two glasses of Prosecco, and B2,750 includes two glasses of champagne.

Cooling Off this Summer in a Traditional Thai Manner

Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok | 494 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Quench your summer thirst with an afternoon tea adapted from those of Thai nobles in the past. Chef Achara To-ussami, Head Chef of Erawan Tea Room, pours her 22 years of cooking experience into this set to ensure that every bite has a unique taste. Tea lovers can choose from butterfly pea flower tea, bael-pandan tea, lemongrass tea, and jasmine tea—all coupled with Thai style canapes, infused with lotus pollen and decorated with lotus leaves, as well as sweet Thai desserts. The tea is B600 for one, B1,200 for two, and runs from 2:30pm to 4:30pm daily.

Floral High Tea at The Lobby Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel

Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel | 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 | siam-bangkok.anantara.co.th The Lobby at the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel invites guests to enjoy afternoon high tea. Sample sweet and savoury delights by Executive Pastry Chef Laurent Duffaut, accompanied by Mariage Frères tea, from now until June 30th. Savoury delights include chamomile and brie French toast, chicken pandan with a tea dip, and hibiscus smoked salmon with tea gel, while sweet offerings include rosella panna cotta—or try a delicious sweet purple potato scone. Serving from 2pm till 6pm daily, the tea set is priced at B850 weekdays, and B950 per person on weekends for the Afternoon Tea Buffet.

Sweetness of Lotus Meets the Tartness of Strawberry

The InterContinental Bangkok | 973 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0444 | bangkok.intercontinental.com Chef Saiful Huda puts 15 years of experience in baking into a dreamlike summer tea set entitled ‘Strawberry Afternoon High Tea’, where the specially selected tea blend highlights the sweetness of the sacred lotus. Traditionally, Vietnamese tea masters would select and bake tea leaves for this blend for elites nobles wishing to relax their minds and nurture their bodies, but nowadays this blend has been embraced by other Asian tea lovers as well. Indulge in a tempting set priced at B550 for one person, and B850 for two persons. Served from 2:30pm to 5:30pm at the Balcony Lounge.

Thai-Style Southern Comfort (food) at Saffron

Banyan Tree Bangkok | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 | www.banyantree.com/en/thailand/bangkok With its distinctive flavours and broad geographical origins, Southern Thai cooking has gained a large and loyal following of devoted foodies, who appreciate the intense, spice-rich flavour profiles that blend influences of regional cuisines like Malaysian and Indonesian. Savour dishes like: fried betel leaf wrapped prawns; stir fried minced pork with dry yellow curry paste; and Southern Thai-style deep fried fish with fresh turmeric and fried garlic. Experience these authentic Southern dishes, with a spectacular sky view, at the 52nd floor Saffron restaurant, serving from 6pm till 10:30pm daily.

‘La Dolce Vita’ Lifestyle Buffet at Latest Recipe

Le Meridien Bangkok | 40/5 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 232 8888 | www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com The palate awakens to ‘La Dolce Vita’—with culinary highlights that range from the iconic Mediterranean enclaves of Nice and Portofino, all the way to the very essence of Asia. Latest Recipe’s new buffet concepts celebrate cultures around the world! Plus the Sunday Brunch extends to four-and-a-half hours—from 12:30pm till 4:30pm—with a Kids’ Corner to keep the wee ones enthralled via cooking classes and a special desserts live preparation station. The buffets are priced at B900 (lunch), B1,100 (dinner), and B1,700 (Sunday brunch), all of which include free-flow soft drinks.

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bangkok101.com

hot plates | FOOD & DRINK

Mihara Tofuten

Chef Gaggan may just have pulled off his most ambitious project yet

ocal chef Gaggan Anand, known for his boundary-pushing creations, has made a career out of cross-pollinating cuisines—fuelled in part by his travels and the influences he encounters along the way. One of his most recent influences has been Japan, and his relationship with Takeshi ‘Goh’ Fukuyama. Together, the two chefs have collaborated on various pop-ups around the world, touring under the epithet ‘GohGan’. The collaboration is set to endure, with plans to open a restaurant together in Fukuoka in 2020. But first, they are introducing “authentic tofu” to Bangkok. Located in the Sathorn area, halfway up a traffic-choked soi, you’ll find Mihara Tofuten Bangkok. The restaurant has an unassuming façade for somewhere so new; low-lit and low-key, the advertising is minimal, self-effacing and respectable—very bangkok101.com

Japanese. Inside, a stone pathway leads you through a glass door. I take a seat at the counter and watch the meditative chefs (Japanese and Thai) meticulously fiddle with chopsticks, tweezers, and knobbly wasabi roots. A 16-course set menu (B3,900, sake and organic wine pairing available upon request) dips and dives between soft and firm, smooth and sweet, semi and fully-curdled—intentional and desirable in the making of tofu. Some examples are sweet like a crème caramel, other flavours are more conventional, accompanied by a “Special Soy” dressing, the rich umami flavours sucked-up inside of the soft white blocks, bursting in the mouth on the first bite. First of all, a chilled glass of soy milk with yuzu jam is a welcome starter, with just enough candied-sweetness from the yuzu as not to overpower. Following is a white meat crab claw

soup topped with two deep-fried cubes of tofu; shavings of Japanese mitsuba is added. Then, a piquant tomato jelly topped with meaty shrimp is served with finely diced okra in a tofu sauce with dashes of lemon oil offering a sweet sucker-punch. Two self-assembly nori rolls arrive, accompanied by semi-soft tofu with the white, creamy consistency of near-coagulant mozzarella. I add to this a liberal helping of plump uni and a thumbnail size of freshly-grated wasabi, then finish with a dash of soy. It’s a salty crunch, a soft wash of melting tofu followed by a lump of hot, bitter green explosive. A fillet of Akamutsu is marinated in salt koji and served with a light, soya milk espuma with beetroot powder. It’s a pairing of high proficiency, demonstrating mastery of the elements. Bread from Conkey’s Bakery is offered to mop-up any remaining sweet soy milk gravy. A beef and onion broth with ‘dancing’ maitake mushrooms is heated table-side, gently cooking A5-grade Wagyu wrapped around thinly-sliced tofu that, when warmed, has the melt-in-the-mouth texture of a hot marshmallow. Best of all of the silken tofu is dessert. A tongue-whipping soya ice cream served with four chilled mini tofu bites: white and dark chocolate, matcha and pistachio. Nothing else added, just whipped tofu and chocolate, simple—a revelation! Who’d have thought that tofu could stretch so far? This is a place where taste, sensation and theatre all come together perfectly. A myriad of tofus presented almost ritualistically, to which any Japanese connoisseur would bow in appreciation. By David J. Constable

Mihara Tofuten Bangkok

5 Khwaeng Thung Maha Mek Tel: 083 655 4245 Open: Mon-Sat, 2 seatings only, 6pm & 9pm M AY 2 0 1 8 | 8 3

FOOD & DRINK | special report

Milestones in Macau As a new generation of chefs come to the fore, it’s a familiar face at No.1 for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018 By David J. Constable

Gaggan Anand and winning team celebrate a fourth consecutive No.1 victory

hen Gaggan Anand took to the stage at the Wynn Palace, Macau, on the evening of March 27th to collect his fourth consecutive award for the No.1 Restaurant on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, he raised both arms triumphantly. A mischievous schoolboy’s grin stretched across his face. Happiness… or relief? As Gaggan stood in front of his assembled peers—chefs, restaurateurs, industry journalists—there was applause. Cheering. Some whooping too. The academy chairs sitting in the front row stood up. Mobile phones were raised in unison, spoiling my view. Standing at the podium, Gaggan turned to Rydo Anton, his head chef (who will take over the restaurant in 2020, re-opening as Raa), and said, “You’re going to need to learn how to talk because you’ll be taking this over.” Then, he addressed the audience. “I didn’t have a speech. I started cooking 22 years back, and dreams do come true. It’s incredible, but I want my friends back. I don’t want to make 49 enemies, so I don’t want to be part of the misery. This will be my last

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Asia’s 50 Best.” It was a thunderbolt statement from the honoured luminary. Opening the ceremony, and the sixth edition of the awards, the Director of the Macau Government Tourism Office (MGTO), Maria Helena de Senna Fernandes, introduced the event as one of the leading highlight activities to mark the local ‘Year of Gastronomy’, after Macau Special Administrative Region was awarded the status of a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy in November last year. In February, MGTO said visitor arrivals to Macau had topped 32 million, a rise of 5.4 percent from 2016. For a rather diminutive population of 600,000—compared to neighbours Hong Kong at 7.4 million—they appear capable of serving more than 30 million tourists; including some of the most demanding and grouchy of international gastronomes, as they more than proved this year. The setting of Macau, on the tip of mainland China west of Hong Kong, can be described as the “Vegas of China”. Indeed, globally it has the reputation as a mecca of bangkok101.com

special report | FOOD & DRINK

Gaggan Anand giving his acceptance speech

Lifetime Achievement Award winner, André Chiang

Asia’s Best Female Chef, Bee Satongun

gambling and glitz, and yet, it is also establishing itself as a thriving culinary destination; shaped by its Portuguese and Asian heritage. And, with the Wynn Resorts (Wynn Palace, also referred to as Wynn Palace Cotai, and Wynn Macau) having signed a two-year hosting contract, you can expect Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019 to be an even bigger extravaganza than this year. Before the ceremony, I spoke to Chef Tam Kwok Fung of Jade Dragon, a restaurant set within the vast City of Dreams resort in Macau. I asked him how the new UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy status would benefit Macau and where, currently, he sees their place in the global culinary world. “The quality of restaurants in Macau has impressed the world,” he told me. “We have a personal touch here, and this is important for visitors. For organizations to give recognition, though, everything needs to be at the very highest standard, always. Not for one service, but for 365 days a year.” On the evening of the awards ceremony, William Drew, Group Editor of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, commented on an outstanding year for restaurants in Asia. “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list welcomes eight new entries in 2018, reflecting the ongoing culinary innovation happening in this region,” he said. “In its sixth year, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants continues to recognise new talents, identify trends, and celebrate excellence. We are thrilled to honour the 50 restaurants on the 2018 list, as well as the individual award winners, who inspire us with their singular visions and remarkable achievements.”

Of the eight new entries, two were re-entries: No.46 Caprice (Hong Kong, China) and No.48 La Maison de la Nature Goh (Fukuoka, Japan). Nicolas Lambert from Caprice was also awarded Asia’s Best Pastry Chef, an award sponsored by Valrhona. The highest new entry was La Cime (Osaka, Japan) coming into the list at an impressive No.17. Representing Macau, Chef Tam’s Jade Dragon was No.35, the sole representative for Macau. Japan was the overall country winner with 11 entries, while Hong Kong and Bangkok were tied with nine. The fact that nine restaurants from Bangkok appeared on the list this year is a cause for celebration, building on an impressive showing since the awards first launched in 2013. Look how the city has performed in the past: Nahm at No.3 in 2013 (Gaggan No.10, Sra Baa by Kiin Kiin No.29, Bo.Lan No.36), then scooping the No.1 spot in 2014 (it placed No.10 this year). Gaggan was No.3 in 2014, then claimed the No.1 spot in 2015, 2016, 2017, and again in 2018. This year’s results confirm Bangkok’s status as a culinary force in Asia, although there is work to be done beyond the capital in a continued effort to spread the diverse range of Thai cuisine across Asia and the world. Japan, by comparison, had representatives in three cities: Tokyo, Osaka, and Fukuoka. Time will tell, but regional Thai food must continue to push and innovate, then, perhaps, we’ll see the likes of outposts in Chiang Mai, Pattaya, and Phuket appearing on the list. Thailand and Thai food deserve more full recognition, and I’m sure all other Asia nations would say the same of themselves.

bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK | special report Of the nine Bangkok entries this year, The Dining Room at The House of Sathorn came in at No.43, and Issaya Siamese Club at No.39. List stalwart Bo.Lan was at No.37, and Eat Me came in at No.33. Then, at No.31 was list newcomer Paste with Chef Bee Satongun also winning the award for Asia’s Best Female Chef 2018, an award sponsored by Elit Vodka. Meanwhile, Le Du climbed an impressive 23 entries to reach No.14, and Nahm came in at No.10. Finally, Sühring leapt from No.13 to No.4.

Sühring twins celebrate with Gaggan Anand After the ceremony, whispers abounded that Sühring could very well be a future No.1 winner, their modern German offering of schnitzel, sauerkraut, and wurst proving a hit across Asia. Of course, this year, that spot was already occupied by their beneficiary, Gaggan. Again. Other awards presented on the evening went to: Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet (Shanghai, China) for The Art of Hospitality; Toyo Eatery (Manila, Philippines) for the Miele One To Watch Award; and André Chaing, of Raw (Taipei) and formerly of Restaurant André (Singapore), this year’s recipient of The Diners Club Lifetime Achievement Award. A journalist from Hong Kong asked me if I was surprised with the result? I answered that I haven’t eaten at the other 49 restaurants, so couldn’t possibly compare them. In truth, I’ve eaten at about one-third, but still, how can you draw comparisons and select an ultimate winner? The idea is preposterous. I have eaten at Gaggan and believe that, much like Ferran Adrià, René Redzepi, and Massimo Bottura, he demonstrates a creative flair with an ever-evolving menu. Above all, like all of the aforementioned chefs, he shows consistency while being adaptable, demonstrating a constant creative evolution. Gaggan is a talented chef, no doubt, everyone on the list is, but he’s playful too—mixing a childlike sparkle with fine dining ethics. Is this what sets Gaggan apart? The Gaggan restaurant is more of a project than a simple standalone dining venue. Never stuffy, always fun. It’s a place where chefs cook, experiment, teach, and educate. The food here is merely the result of much travel, research, and exhaustive experimentation, with the warmth of Gaggan overwhelming any deficiencies of the food. It tastes good because it’s made with lashings, smears, drizzles, and nests of goodness. Plus, some heavy metal rock music, too. An emoji menu at Gaggan is tacky, but a stroke of modern genius during a time when images are replacing 8 6 | M AY 2 0 1 8

words and diners judge a plate, even before they’ve tasted it, purely on the description alone. Gaggan wishes his guests not be influenced by ingredients and lengthy descriptions; to dive in, bravely and uninhibited. The menu is a dip and dive, it’s up-and-down, sometimes requiring cutlery, then no cutlery, then fingers only, then licking the plate clean. It is sensory eating and, in turn, like no other restaurant in Asia (that I’ve eaten at, anyway). I suppose it is, for want of a better word, “progressive.” While I find it difficult to select a single restaurant in all of Asia to sit atop the mountain, we must applaud Gaggan and his team and the work of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Although they have their critics, they do break away from superannuated Michelin in a fun and dynamic way, providing a barometer of gastronomic trends as it competes to be the most famous arbiter of good taste in the world. It is a list, of course, but also an inventory of restaurant recommendations and kitchen observance, as well as a celebration of the universality of cuisines. This is a time of fast-paced restaurant openings and closings. Any financial advisor worth their ridiculouslyoverpriced suit would advise against opening a restaurant. Why would you? The hours are crazy and the pressure immense. The odds are stacked against you. That’s why chefs are a loopy lot. As AA Gill once observed, “The reason that chefs become chefs is that they’re not allowed into rooms with windows.” And yet, we see new restaurants opening week after week in cities across the world. That has to be encouraging.

Runner-up Zaiya Hasegawa from Den, Tokyo To celebrate the achievements of not just chefs and restaurants, but Asia as a great and diverse culinary region, is crucial. Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants is the apex of this marking, and with so many different ethnicities represented—and chefs and diners criss-crossing the world in order to cook and eat—food has become the great unifier. Despite this, only a very, very small percentage of chefs are thrust into the spotlight—via lists, cooking shows, cookery books, an outspoken social media, or a Netflix documentary. Many of the attending chefs in Macau flirt with the spotlight, because it’s part of the gig. And, with an abundance of international events, ceremonies, and engagements, they have become close friends, a tight-knit family of cooks no longer chained to their stoves. bangkok101.com

special report | FOOD & DRINK

Left to right: Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn, Le Du; Fatih Tutak, The House on Sathorn; Tim Butler, Eat Me As the Mick Jagger of the kitchen, Gaggan travels tirelessly, as do all of the Top 50 chefs—travelling the world together, visiting each other’s restaurants, cooking together (4-hands, 6-hands, 8-hands, there was even an 18-hand lunch at 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana in Macau). They cook, present, discuss, and entertain ravenous ‘foodies’. They’re a travelling circus of short-fused chefs with their pans and spatulas; hanging out at global food gatherings like GELINAZ, Identità Golose, Care’s, Gastronomika, and Bangkok’s own WIG and BITE (powered by Gastronauts Asia)—supporting, challenging and encouraging across universal lines. For me though, what is more exciting now is the rise of new chefs and new restaurants. Seeing Chef Bee from Paste take the stage to collect her award, not merely a female chef (although, one of only three female chefs to appear in the Top 50 along with Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava from Bo.Lan and Suraja Ruangnukulkit from Nahm—all Thai), but a chef, outperforming and outachieving many other chefs, whatever their sex. Along with her husband, Jason Bailey, they have achieved something extraordinary; researching, cooking and presenting foregone Thai recipes, many based on old family recipes, with a twist of modernity. I ate lunch there recently and was stunned by the colours, tastes, and attention to detail. And then Le Du, jumping so high; the achievements of Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn and his business partner Rungroj ‘Tao’ Ingudananda, recognized and aptly awarded. And what about Sühring? The identical twin German siblings are cooking in Bangkok to a mostly Thai customer base. Who do they think they are? Their climb is impressive, and they don’t show signs of slowing. Post-ceremony, Gaggan commented further on the remarks made during his acceptance speech. “I want all the voters to stop voting for me,” he said, bangkok101.com

controversially. “After four wins, I’ll finish it there, like Björn Borg at Wimbledon. This is controversial, but this is honestly how I feel. Over the past couple of days I’ve met so many chefs who are friends, behaving as if I’m number one and they’re number two, or number three, or number 10, or whatever. They’ve given up, what’s the point to compete? They’ve stopped smiling at me. I didn’t do any personal harm to them. I want my friends back.” The reality for Gaggan is that it might not be as straightforward as expelling himself from the list. As William Drew noted, “Restaurants cannot choose to be in the list—they are voted for—so by the same token they cannot choose to be removed, unless they closed or are closing imminently (within three months of the publication of the list).” And what about The World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards in Bilbao on June 19th? Gaggan restaurant is currently placed at No.7. Will this be his farewell tour, his last dance with his kitchen peers? “I think we can expect to see Gaggan on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2019,” added Drew. “Whether it remains number one or not will only be revealed at this time next year.” So again, eyes will turn to the glitz and vibrancy of Macau in 2019 as we wait in suspense of Gaggan’s appearance (or absence) from the list. And how will Bangkok as a whole perform next year? Personally, I anticipate the city eclipsing its nine restaurants set this year. Perhaps debuts for 80/20, Le Normandie, Gaa, Appia, JUA, or Upstairs at Mikkeller? Let’s not forget the city’s new GohGan project, Gaggan and Chef Takeshi ‘Goh’ Fukuyama’s tofu restaurant, Mihara Tofuten Bangkok. And will we see a representative from wider afield in Thailand? I hope so (if you’re reading this, voters). Let’s speak again in 12 months. All photographs supplied by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna. M AY 2 0 1 8 | 8 7

FOOD & DRINK | review

At-Ta-Rote

Modern Thai dining in a chic setting presents a head-scratching concept

erious money has been sunk into At-Ta-Rote, a revamped exItalian ristorante that’s morphed into a modern Thai dining room, opened in late-2016. The restaurant, at the very far end of Sukhumvit Soi 39, occupies a vast, glass space with plenty of natural light. Wooden beams and shiny fittings present a chic décor, with an indoor overspill of flora that drips with greenery, kind of like entering into a greenhouse for a dining reservation. Speaking of reservations, there was a kerfuffle with mine, followed by problematic table seating (I was seated in a concealed corner despite the restaurant being almost empty). At my new table, with a view across the floor, I surveyed the menu, and discovered an explanation, a preface to my meal: “A glimpse of magnificent reflection of words, food and authentic Thai way.” Despite this, I’m no wiser. To my relief, food descriptions are in Thai and English, with some vivid photographs of dishes, high-res enough that staff will understand if you lick the paper. I resisted the urge, and awaited service… then waited 8 8 | M AY 2 0 1 8

some more. Eventually, someone took my order, but there’s no encouragement or suggestions from the staff, no offer of a drink, so I step into unknown territory and nervously await the response. Soon, waiters arrive with a succession of “trays” some of which I ordered, others I didn’t. Miang Kham (B185) wraps are a known Thai appetizer, introduced to the Siamese court of King Rama V by Queen Dara Rasamee. I take a handful of dried shrimps, garlic, ginger, shallots, roasted coconut, lemongrass, and green bird’s eye chillies, wrap it all in a lotus and betel nut leaf, and shove in my gob. It’s a tasty reflection of Thai cooking in one bite: sour, sweet, salty, bitter, spicy; unravelling in my mouth. There’s also Pla Hang Tangmo (B175), those little watermelon cubes with dried fish and crispy shallots, and Gaeng Pet Ped Yarng (B230), a roasted duck curry in a creamy red paste and coconut milk base. It’s a delicious and meaty curry—not hot, but dense with flavour. Then, Nuea Pu Pad Prik Khee Noo (B450), a stir-fry of white crab meat mixed with

fiery red chillies that brings a tear to the eye, marginally aided by a Passion Fruit smoothie (B130). Desserts are a trio of Thai Flavour Homemade Ice Creams (B95): the sharp fruity tang of Very Berry, a surprisingly scrumptious Black Sticky Rice, but an unpleasant Aromatic Coconut Milk that tasted of mildewy mozzarella. I can’t fault much of the food, but the service needs tweaking if they’re going to have a loyal customer base. For a restaurant in the extremities of a Sukhumvit side street, without the throng of pedestrian tourist buzz or footfall, you need to be performing across the board. Instead, what you get is a room that serves all the fashionable etiquette of a modern Thai restaurant, but lacking in consistency and without the wide-grin smiles the country is renowned for. By David J. Constable

At-Ta-Rote

59/3, Sukhumvit Soi 39 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm Tel: 064 249 4244 www.facebook.com/attarote.eatery bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

The House on Sathorn Supremely talented chef looks to home for nostalgic inspiration

ew restaurant settings in the city rival The House on Sathorn, set in a charming colonial mansion that was built in 1888, during the reign King Rama V, and underwent extensive renovations in the 2000s (re-opening as part of the W Hotel Bangkok in 2015). The chef at the helm of The Dining Room, twice featured on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, is Fatih Tutak. A Turkish native, Chef Fatih has spent much of his professional career in Asia, honing his skills in Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Singapore, with a stint at the revolutionary Noma, Copenhagen as well. Here in Bangkok he keeps things rooted in the Ottoman canon, experimenting with tastes, textures, and temperatures in a 10-course— although expect more—Tasting Menu bangkok101.com

(B3,600), often fusing Turkish cuisine with Asian ingredients. Take, for instance, an introduction of mezes and a rapid-fire of five courses leaping from Mediterranean black mussels, to Australian Wagyu short rib, to a çılbır (Turkish poached egg) with chilli oil. These dainty starters are meticulously prepared and plated in front of me—I managed to bag a seat at the counter—as a series of chefs cook to order: The beef is charcoal-smoked, plump sea urchin is placed on bitesize rolled cabbage, while other tasty morsels are topped with beluga caviar. Japanese tomatoes are glazed with a pomegranate reduction to complete a course titled ‘Childhood Summers’, inspired by Chef Fatih’s memories of youth. Similar nostalgia runs through ‘From my Mum’, a Turkish manti

dumpling—minus the meat—with mint butter and kaymak; homemade ketchup accompanies, consisting of five different types of tomato. Plates are served by Chef Fatih, through a childish, if a little braggadocio, grin, as he reveals delight and emotion in each creation. ‘Calamar Dolma’ stretches the capabilities of squid with delicious results, artistically using the body, tentacles, and black ink, while ‘Bosphorus Tandir’ poaches a turbot to perfection alongside a baby artichoke styled as a rosebud and stem. All accompanied by a glass or five of Australian Chandon Brut fizz (B420). Service is attentive, with plates presented in front of me, and empties taken away from behind or next to me (at various intervals, a hand appears from behind, or reaches around my waist, to remove something). As for the cooking, I found it bold and brave, introducing modern Turkish cuisine to Thailand—without any döner meat or burger sauce in sight. Much of the cooking is rooted in memory, Chef Fatih recalling his mother’s home cooking and visits he made to the spice markets of Istanbul with his grandmother. You instantly feel a connection, finding pleasure in the stories of his childhood, before recalling your own. Good food does this, it raises a smile and sends you scuttling through time. Turkish food is long overdue an international ambassador. In the country itself you can find chefs cooking with flair, but broader afield the cuisine lacks the understanding of many. Chef Fatih could well be the man to unveil it to the world, but first, he’s concentrating on lucky Bangkok. By David J. Constable

The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn

W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 344 4025 www.thehouseonsathorn.com M AY 2 0 1 8 | 8 9

FOOD & DRINK | review

Embassy Room

East-meets-West at this high-end “home-styled” living space

alking down the runwayesque stairs of the illustrious Park Hyatt Bangkok to the 9th floor lobby lounge, suitably named the ‘Living Room’, it’s immediately evident why the brand’s 40th hotel is synonymous with luxury and prestige. Elegance and charm is found in every understated detail, but I still feel right at home. Seamlessly flowing from one living space to the next, the adjoining Embassy Room harmoniously co-exists with both the Living Room and open-plan kitchen to offer guests a high-end “home-styled” dining experience. A calming palate of cool earth tones sets the scene, with small pops of colour found in the playful turquoise crockery. Trendy minimalistic chandeliers hang from the ceilings, and Asian-inspired art is

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dotted along the textured walls, while floor-to-ceiling windows provide views of Bangkok’s skyline. We visited for lunch and were welcomed with unlimited offerings of appetizers and desserts from ‘The Pantry’, as well as one main course, all for the price of B1,450. For a lighter lunch, the option of only appetizers and desserts is also available, priced at B990. Both are inclusive of coffee or tea and a serving of the soup of the day. Keeping it homey, the Embassy Room goes back to basics serving simple food done well. At first glance the fare seems to be strictly international, but upon second inspection of the menu you’ll find the offerings are cross-cultured, perfectly balancing both Western and Asian influences. Miso marinated black cod

fish served with pak choi, and Atlantic salmon, ratatouille, and quinoa with lemon confit both being fine examples of their East-meets-West culinary offerings. The wood fire oven roasted baby chicken with roasted vegetables and rosemary jus came highly recommended, but it was the pork chop with pumpkin purée and pickled onion that caught my eye. After ordering our mains, we proceeded to The Pantry to choose our starters (or desserts, depending if you want sweet or savoury first), where over 20 options of freshly made appetizers and salads were presented. Each dish is made fresh, and the selection is rotated daily. Fresh baked quiche; Waldorf salad; watermelon and feta cheese; French beans salad; smoked salmon; salted egg som tum; fusilli pasta with rocket pesto, buratta from Khao Yai and sundried tomatoes; as well as a DIY salad section with a homemade Caesar dressing, were but a few of the day’s offerings. Just as we finished our appetizers we were presented with our mains—all in very generous portions. The salty char-grilled pork chop, sweet pumpkin, and sour purple pickled onion came together in a perfect balance of flavours (and colours). A sprinkling of fine cap moo (pork crackling) gave it an extra element of both crunch and salt. For something sweet, classic desserts were a prominent theme with beautiful strawberry Swiss roll, baked vanilla custard, New York cheesecake, chocolate layer cake, Paris-brest, Opera cake, pistachio bavaroise feuilletine, macarons, and much more on offer, not forgetting a selection of cheeses and breads too. By Kelly Harvey

Embassy Room

9F, The Park Hyatt Bangkok Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 6am-10:30am, noon-2pm, 6pm-10pm bangkok.park.hyatt.com bangkok101.com

café review | FOOD & DRINK

The Chocolate Boutique A decadent dreamland of delicious desserts

eaded by Danish Chef Claus Olsen, whose passion for pastry and confectionary began with a childhood spent in his grandfather’s bakery in Copenhagen, The Chocolate Boutique has a clear and strong focus on natural quality ingredients and old world craftsmanship. A sense of playful experimentation is also evident, however, from the moment you begin browsing the menu. In many ways, The Chocolate Boutique looks a lot like a jewellery shop, and its location in the lobby of the Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok only adds to the impression of luxury. But while the stylish setting, sweeping views of the Chao Phraya River, and European-style service are fitting of a 5-star hotel, the prices are not. Giving every bakery in town a run for their money, the 107 different pastry variations on offer, and the kitchen’s robust side business selling customized cakes and products to other hotels, proves that, despite its name, this shop has a lot more to offer than just chocolate. Everything on the menu is made from scratch daily, making even bangkok101.com

simple staples like the Muffins (B55) notable for the freshness of their flavour. Savoury options like the Seafood Pot Pie (B110), made with a buttery salt dough crust, offer a generous amount of shrimp and white fish in cream sauce, while the flaky Sausage Roll (B105) uses specially made Thai sausages that gush with cheese. For those who love the combination of salty and sweet, the Bacon Nutella & Crispy Praline Shang O Bun (B55) offers an unusual twist on the traditional doughnut. If you’re looking to truly indulge your sweet tooth, you can’t go wrong with the Chewy Salted Caramel Cookie (B99), which oozes with gooey caramel, or the Crème Brulee Bun (B69), a delicate pastry filled with a whipped blend of custard and mascarpone. The single Entremet Pastries (B149) are not only super Instagrammable but also highlight Olsen’s talent for creating complex desserts with memorable and balanced flavours. The architectural looking Yusu de Ponti (B149), made with calamansi and yusu, is served in a praline shell and topped with a

spheric orb that bursts with citrus flavour. With tangy curd and soft sponge cake layered inside, the dessert has a wonderful tartness. The Matcha & Vanilla Milk Choux (B149) offers a beautiful high-end twist to the flavoured Kit Kats that inspired it, the airy texture of the green tea filling contrasting with the light crunch of the stacked pastry spheres. With a menu filled with tempting options and friendly prices, you won’t be leaving hungry, but make sure to save space for a few chocolates before you go. As much a feast for the eyes as they are the mouth, options like the peanut butter and crunchy pralines are sure crowd pleasers, with boozy flavours like the sour mash Jack Daniels offering more than just a sugar buzz (B41 each). by Micaela Marini Higgs

The Chocolate Boutique GF, Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu Open daily: 8am-11pm Tel: 02 236 7777 www.shangri-la.com/bangkok

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FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Deepanker Khosla

An accidental gardener with a passionate message constructs a backyard urban farm-cum-fine-dining experience

here are a lot of stories about sustainability and ethics, and the lengths chefs go to in order to devise and promote some newfangled kitchen gimmick that’ll set them apart from the herd. Most of the stories you hear are phony marketing yarns, created by PRs to push and promote their client, to thrust them into the spotlight of an ever-growing local-seasonal-organic food movement. It’s rare that you’re able to meet a chef and see and hear their message in real-time. To witness their approach and their philosophy.

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It’s even rarer to see it applied. So, as I sat with Chef Deepanker ‘DK’ Khosla in his new restaurant, Haoma (named after a divine plant venerated by ancient human societies), tucked around a corner at the far end of Sukhumvit Soi 31, I’m impressed; surrounded by potted plants, shrubbery, and hanging vines. Inside and outside of Haoma, seedlings thrive in an almost zen-like space. Turf grows up the sides of walls, flowers flourish, and plants overhang from wooden beams. The two-storey glasshouse has become an inside-out

allotment of produce—a bounty of ingredients for an ever-evolving menu. With a passion and focus on sustainability (there’s that word again) and environmentally-friendly gastronomy, Chef DK has created an on-site garden and an approach to growing, harvesting and cooking he calls “Progressive Urban-Farm Dining and Mixology”. Unlike many of the missives advocated by so-called caring chefs, he preaches what he teaches, so that diners to Haoma walk through— then dine in and around—seasonal, growing and transformative produce. bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

“I look around to see what’s here and celebrate the ingredients,” he tells me over a Bell Pepper cocktail (with whisky, pink peppercorns, and bell pepper). “I don’t constrain myself to other cuisines. They all influence me— French, Italian, Mexican, Indian—but I can’t be restricted by them. Here, we grow what we cook, and we cook what we love.” Almost all of the menu comes directly from the plants next to me, above me, or thriving in their growbags through the window, otherwise, “it’s from the markets my sous chef Tarun Bhatia [winner of Southeast Asia S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016] and I visit every day.” On the flavour wheel, expect earthy textures with pickings from the garden, like salt-baked baby beetroot, heirloom carrots, and sous vide asparagus. Ask Chef DK and he’ll show you the impressive installations: the aquaponics, hydroponics and growing troughs. There is also an impressive water recycling system installed, and certified soil, plus those little brown puff balls (hydroton pellets) you grow plants in that look like a chocolate breakfast cereal, but aren’t. A relative newbie on the culinary circuit in Bangkok, and still only 28, Chef DK arrived from Mumbai in 2014. In India, he grew up on the banks of bangkok101.com

the Ganges River with aspirations of becoming a fighter pilot, but soon left behind ambitions of the cockpit for the kitchen and enrolled at Welcomgroup Graduate School of Hotel Administration (WGSHA). “I was an energetic kid, always full of excitement, so it was natural for me to create things,” he recalls. After training in Starwood Hotels & Resorts, and running a restaurant in Mumbai for a number of years, he was told of an opportunity in Bangkok. After a successful trial at Charcoal Tandoor Grill (Sukhumvit Soi 11), he was hired. He left Charcoal in January 2016 and travelled from Pai to Phuket, looking for new ingredients and experiences. “Cooking within the realm of hotels and their fast-paced kitchens was no longer my calling,” he says with confidence. The next step was a food truck, cooking and promoting healthy eating. “My two passions are cooking and being on the road,” he says. “I’m a Ducati enthusiast and love being on two wheels. The food truck meant that I could cook and travel.” Then came his business NutriChef, specializing in delivering “wholesome clean food to help lose weight, save time, and feel amazing!” The creation of Haoma is a much bigger project, though—built on land next door to the chef’s own

house. “It’s personal for me,” he adds. From the menu I sample ‘Stick to the Roots’, a beautiful arrangement of colourful root vegetables, specificity plated to showcase the root growth, as if you were seeing them from under the earth. “You get it, right?” he enthusiastically asks, ordering more cocktails for the table: Kale (with gin, avocado, apple and celery) and Strawberry (with lemon, strawberry leather, and Salak extract). Then, as the largely veg-centric menu continues with Chef DK’s self-confessed Alan Passard approach to haute cuisine végétale, a plate of ‘Burrata with the Bubbles’ appears. Followed by meat courses: ‘Hungarian Goulash’ using local veal with pearl onions and ‘Lamb in the Hills’ (New Zealand) with Himalayan garlic. Simple, yet inventive. Chef DK has proven himself an accidental gardener—even learning from YouTube Channel The School of Aquaponics—growing and championing on-site urban farming. Now, with a dining room alongside his farm, he intends to create Bangkok’s first 0 km restaurant. From the looks of things, he has all of the tools and talent to achieve it. Interview by David J. Constable

www.haoma.dk M AY 2 0 1 8 | 9 3

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

Yai Hong Khanom Thai T he popular Nang Leong Market, a foodie haven in the northeastern section of Bangkok’s Old Town, is famous not only for filling the bellies of many people, but also for being a charming community in and of itself. I would add that if a person comes to experience the food here, they must also take a walk and spend a little more time on observing the authentic Bangkok lifestyle which is also on display. I always make a few more friends each time I visit the Nang Leong community. We develop a familiarity with each other, and many times they wave or greet me before I even open my mouth to say “Sawasdee Kha” to them. That is really sweet. That sweetness also sugarcoats this story, because the Nang Leong market community is famous for making traditional Thai sweets, or Khanom Thai. Grandmother Hong, or Yai Hong, has been making her Khanom Thai for more than 40 years. Her little shop is at the corner space next to the charming rustic wooden cinema house called Charoenburi. She makes her desserts fresh every day, direct from the kitchen of her World War II era home, which is situated in the adjacent little alley nearby. Bear in

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 9 4 | M AY 2 0 1 8

mind that Yai Hong is 80-something years old, and has been using the same kitchen to make her sweets almost every morning. She rises each day from her hardwood bed, and starts the charcoal in the kitchen by herself. The upper portion of her body is bent parallel to the ground from her repeated humble movements—because she has been doing this since she was 14! Khanom Thai requires a gentle touch in marrying ingredients together, and the person making the sweets must be sensitive to the cooking heat. Yai Hong prefers doing it all in the original way, with charcoal, because she wants to remain true to the original method. It’s the way she knows best, and it’s also the best way to make certain delicate desserts, such as her Nam Kati (coconut milk mixed with a little salt). But it’s her famous Khanom Morkaeng that really stands out.

These sweets are similar to egg custard, or flan, and are made with mung beans, eggs, palm sugar, white sugar, and fresh coconut milk. Yai Hong still bakes them in the oldschool, handmade oven that is pretty much the same age as her. This rustic appliance has a tray that covers the top of the unit, which in turn allows the fiery charcoals to sit inside. And that’s what makes her Khanom Morkaeng come out with such an amazing colour—burnt brown with a crispy texture on the top layer. She is such a master in preparing this item that she can tell just from the smell if it is ready or not. When indeed they are ready, she will sprinkle them generously with crispy fried shallots on top. That’s what makes them such a gem! And having them while they’re still hot is divine! This is the reason why when I’m here I have my lunch backwards. I start with dessert first… and why not?!

ADDRESS: Yai Hong Khanom Thai is at the corner of the wooden cinema and little alleyway in Nang Leong market community. It is open Monday to Saturday, from 10:30am till 4pm. bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE Liu

A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes. 3F, Conrad Bangkok 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

22F, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Tel: 02 632 9000 Open daily: 6pm-10pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am2:30pm, Sun, 11am-2:30pm www.crowneplazabkk.com

FRENCH

Silver Waves

A stylish and contemporary Cantonese restaurant with a glorious riverside setting. Try the signature Peking Duck. 36F, Chatrium Riverside Hotel 18 Charoenkrung Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 023 078 888, ext. 1948 www.chatrium.com

Xin Tian Di

The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches, and à la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok.

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Lunch, Mon-Sat, noon-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

Loulou Forks & Glasses

This cozy bistro-style spot. offers superb savoury selections such as cold cuts and cheeses, as well as market-fresh daily specials and affordably good wines. 459/61, Suan Phlu Soi 8 Tel: 083 041 4351 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.louloubangkok.com

Outlaw Creative Cuisine

La Vie

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at this elegant restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination. 11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm,

This restaurant definitely lives up to its name, serving daring fare with an artistic flair, and letting the high quality ingredients speak for themselves. 415, Charoen Krung Soi 45 Tel: 090 021 2111 Open: Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, Sat, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10:30pm, Sun 5pm-10:30pm www.facebook.com/outlawcreativecuisine

INDIAN Bawarchi

The kind of curries you’ve been missing—

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listings | FOOD & DRINK rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious. Check out any one of Bawarchi’s Bangkok four locations. BF, Intercontinental Chidlom 973 Ploenchit Rd, Tel: 02 656 0101-3 1F, Ambassador Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 253 2394 India-Thai Chamber of Commerce Building, Sathorn Soi 1, Tel: 02 677 6249 20/11, Sukhumvit Soi 4, Tel: 02 656 7357 www.bawarchiindian.com

ornate presentation, amazing flavours, inventive tasting menus, and creative cocktail-pairings. Radisson Suites Bangkok Sukhumvit 23/2-3, Sukhumvit Soi 13 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm Tel: 02 645 4952 www.punjabgrillbangkok.com

Punjab Grill Bangkok

This popular restaurant franchise—there are over 26 outlets in India—brings to Bangkok diners an element of refinement to Indian cuisine, through

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Flow

Blunos

This all-day dining spot offers guests a daily buffet-with-a-view, as the restaurant overlooks the Chao Phraya River. Don’t miss their spectacular Seafood Friday spread, which serves up an impressively diverse array of top-tier imported crab, oysters, shrimp, fish, and more! Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoen Nakhon Rd. Every Friday: 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 442 2000 www3.hilton.com

Blunos

Harvest

INTERNATIONAL

Maya

A high-flying joint that contains more than a few surprises, from cocktails with Indian twists to food that marries ingredients unusual in Indian cuisine with classic manifestations from the Subcontinent. 29F, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 683 4888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.mayathailand.com

portion of laid-back ambiance with a side order of smooth sounds. 14F, Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn 33/1 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 210 8100 Open daily: 9am-midnight www.eastingrandsathorn.com

Chef Martin Blunos and his talented team conjure up plate after plate of international home-style fare featuring all the classics with more than a few surprises too, all savoured over a large

Rustic to the core, this wood-decorated venue relies heavily on Mediterranean influences and high-quality seafood. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 02 262 0762

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FOOD & DRINK | listings Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight www.facebook.com/harvestrestaurantBKK

Karmakamet Diner

Although the café style selections are outstanding, the talented kitchen team is also adept at creating some serious fine dining dishes. 30/1 Soi Methi Niwet Tel: 02 262 0700 Open daily: 10am-11:30pm www.karmakametdiner.com

and a piano player tickles the ivories as one dines. GF, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao 1693 Phahonyothin Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm Tel: 02 541 1234, ext. 4169 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Park Society

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this high-altitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus. 29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 624 0000 www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

With a design concept that conjures up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill kitchen at this stunning restaurant space and cocktail bar dishes up succulent steaks and other meaty morsels. It’s also home to what has to be the coolest looking whisky room in the city. 34-36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant

Neither an open-air rooftop bar, nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two milieus. 60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Opem daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

ITALIAN Don Giovanni

From the big wooden pillars to the villa scenery painted on walls and busts on pedestals, this restaurant transports patrons to a different place and time, with a menu that offers Italian classics 9 8 | M AY 2 0 1 8

JAPANESE Katana Shabu & Japanese Dining

The deliciously inventive Japanese fusion cuisine here is equally matched by the inventiveness of the décor—where each private dining room has a different, eye-popping design scheme. 21/38, Sukhumvit Soi 23 (Soi Prasanmit) Open daily 5:30pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 088 0706 www.ssjd-katana.com

Yuutaro

La Scala

This fine dining Italian gourmet restaurant specializes in classic artistic, chef-style cooking, serving up dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavour. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: Lunch, 12pm-2:30pm, Dinner, 6:30pm-11pm www.sukhothai.com

Scalini

The casual fine-dining Italian restaurant atmosphere is enhanced by the impressive culinary skills of the resident chef, who blends a heartfelt love of the power of ingredients with expertly executed and innovative culinary techniques and bold flavour combinations. Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok hotel 11, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Open daily: 6am-11am, 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 620 6699 www3.hilton.com

Sorrento

This venue has long been one of the city’s tried and trusted Italian food restaurants, and although they’ve reopened with a rebranding, favourite items such as cheese and pepper pasta, burrata salad, and their signature tiramisu are still on the menu. 73, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 234 9933 Open: Sun-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11ammidnight www.facebook.com/sorrentosathorn

Sushi and sashimi purists take note, a staggering 90 percent of the seafood is selected from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. 5F, Central Embassy 1031 Phloenchit Rd. Tel: 02 160 5880-1 Open daily: 11am-10.30pm www.yuutaro.com

SPANISH/LATIN El Tapeo

This three-storey restaurant, which specializes in tapas-style offerings, offers authentic Spanish tastes at very affordable prices. 159/10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 052 0656 Open: Sun, Tue-Thu, 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat, 11:30am-1am www.eltapeobkk.com

Uno Mas

With its expansive menu of authentic Spanish specialties, coupled with spectacular city views, this chic, sky-high tapas bar and restaurant reaches new “heights” in several respects. 54F, Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 4pm-1am Tel: 02 100 6255 www.unomasbangkok.com

THAI Banana House

What began with the passion and friendship of three young men, almost 35 years ago, has now became one of top Thai restaurants on Silom Road. The kitchen delivers original dishes, plus limited seasonal menus, which combine complex tastes and authentic recipes. bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK 2F, 68/1 Duangtip Blvd, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 234 9967 Open: Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm

Basil

The venue itself is just pure elegance, craftily marrying the pomp and fanfare of hotel chic with the safe comforts of casual fine dining. Meanwhile, the concept behind the set menu is that guests take a journey—in eight courses—discovering the regional tastes of Thailand. 1F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Open: Mon-Fri, noon-2:30pm; daily, 6pm10:30pm Tel: 02 649 8366 www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com

Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant (and cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Jim Thompson House

Jim Thompson House and Museum

The city’s number-two tourist attraction is ALSO home to a restaurant that pairs a sumptuous setting with surprisingly unusual Thai food. Factor in the generous happy hours, and there’s no reason not to visit. 6, Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 612 3601 Open daily: 9am-5pm, 7pm-11pm www.jimthompson.com

Osha Restaurant Bangkok

A modishly elegant Thai fine dining standby, the restaurant derives its name from the word for “delicious” used in Thai bangkok101.com

royal courts of centuries past. The main dining hall is a captivating, multi-faceted canvas of visual intrigue, with gold-leaf gilding, dining nooks designed to resemble alms bowls, and a massive, custom-made chandelier in the form of a chada—the familiar traditional Thai headdress. 99 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm (Fri-Sat, till midnight) Tel: 02 256 6555 www.oshabangkok.com

Patara Restaurant

The term patara, meaning a “gracious lady”, is given to a Thai girl who looks after family and friends with great attention. The restaurant is situated in a converted heritage house and presents Thai dining at its best, with seating in the dining room, the elegant garden, or in private rooms upstairs. 375, Thong Lor Soi 19 Tel: 02 185 2960-1 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm www.patarathailand.com

of authentic Thai cooking, reviving and reinterpreting classic recipes. 32, Sukumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 664 0664 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm11:30pm www.thelocalthaicuisine.com

CAFÉ Rocket Coffeebar

A Nordic-inspired café offering premium quality coffee along with variety of comfort foods, all under the healthy concept of farm-to-table. Now with two downtown locations. 147, Sathorn Soi 12, Tel: 02 635 0404 1F, Grease Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49, Tel: 02 662 6638 www.rocketcoffeebar.com

Salathip

Set against the backdrop of the Chao Phraya River waterfront, the enchanting atmosphere of this restaurant transports diners to the golden era of Thailand’s Rattanakosin period, all the while showcasing a menu of traditional Thai delicacies. Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Rd. Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.shangri-la.com

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, diners at this elegant, innovative one Michelin star eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an incredible culinary adventure. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-midnight Tel: 02 162 9000 www.kempinski.com/bangkok

The Local by Oamthong Thai Cuisine

Located in a former home, this spacious restaurant is spread over two floors with several offshoot rooms for private dining and events. The kitchen, meanwhile, is among the most prominent exponents

Sift Bakery

Furnished with large floor-to-ceiling windows, and a counter displaying an assortment of desserts and pastries, diners at this café can enjoy their orders in a spacious upstairs and downstairs seating area. GF, Amaranta Hotel, Pracharatbumpen Soi 7 Open: Wed-Mon, 11am-10pm Tel: 02 691 1688 www.amarantahotel.com

VEGETARIAN Veganerie Concept

The modern-rustic interior is flooded with natural light, and the fare—from tantalizing dairy-free bakery desserts to vegan appetizers and main courses—is pretty “natural” as well. 35/2 Soi Methiniwet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) Tel: 02 258 8489 Open: Fri-Wed, 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/veganbakerybangkok M AY 2 0 1 8 | 9 9

The Legion of Union (above), just one of the signature cocktails at Escape Bangkok

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE escape the city without leaving the bts line Part skybar, part beach bar, the aesthetically beautiful ESCAPE BANGKOK, which opened on February 14th on the top of the B Building at EMQUARTIER (above the Bounce trampoline gym), has been described as “Sukhumvit’s secret sanctuary”, and it’s an apt description. This urban oasis—with a seating capacity of approx. 300—is huge, and it’s divided into four main areas, including beer bar, main bar, indoor lounge area, and a terrace with canopy day beds overlooking BTS Phrom Phong. The vibe is pure Miami, and the nightly DJs provide a solid backbeat, often accompanied by live musicians. The menu covers all the bases, with snacks ranging from burgers to oysters on the halfshell, while the extensive drink menu includes 12 signature cocktails. Try the Legion of Union, a spirit-only concoction made with vermouth, Aperol, sherry, gin, and chocolate bitters. Open daily from 5pm till midnight. www.escape-bangkok.com

get wise to wine On May 4th the ANANTARA SIAM BANGKOK hotel (155 Rajadamri Rd) hosts the THAI SOMMELIER AFFAIR 2018. This oenophile event runs from 6:30pm till 9:30pm and will bring together 10 of the top Thai wine professionals from some of the city’s best 5-star hotels and top rated bars and restaurants—including DIREKRIT KOTCHAWONG from RIEDEL WINE BAR & CELLAR BANGKOK. In addition, international suppliers and winemakers will be in attendance, ready to recount the histories of the carefully selected vintages they’ve brought along. Tickets are B1,400 and can be reserved by calling 02 126 8866, ext.1201. dining.asia.anantara.com.

imbibing internationally In mid-April TALAD NATH officially opened its doors, tempting hip tipplers to visit their cozy hideaway on secluded Thong Lor Soi 6. The low ceilinged interior features a lot of cool, polished concrete and the bar itself is made to look like a Thai two-wheeled market food cart (talad means “market” in Thai). The drink menu also displays a playful feel, with beverages listed on a world map according to the region that inspired them. Blackstrap is a delicious Caribbean rum cocktail humourously served in an empty beer bottle, and the vibrant pink Salted Plum Magarita is a zippy South American treat, but it was the European Eau de Vie—a highball of fruit brandy served with Fentiman's natural ginger beer and a slice of pear—that was a personal favourite. www.facebook.com/taladnath

watering holes new and noted In the Ari neighbourhood the latest addition to the cocktail scene is FRANK MANSION, a sophisticated yet casual haunt on the 3rd and 4th floors of ARI ONE (Ari Soi 1), compete with low lit interiors and a pleasant outdoor rooftop terrace. Meanwhile, in the Old Town, CINEMA WINEHOUSE (59/61 Samsen Rd) recently changed ownership, relaunching in fine style. It’s now open seven nights a week, with affordable wines, great snacks and, of course, two movie screenings daily (starting at 7:30pm). www.facebook.com/frankmansion • www.facebook.com/cinemawinehouse

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NIGHTLIFE | review

CRU Champagne Bar

Creative spirit and champagne cocktails, plus eye-popping panoramic views

f you enjoy epic views with your tipple, then the illuminated arch that is the iconic emblem of Centara Grand’s Red Sky rooftop bar has no doubt been one of your go-to drink spot destinations in downtown Bangkok. But, did you know that the city’s aerial jewel, CRU Champagne Bar by G.H. Mumm, sits even further up? But first, here’s how you get there. Get up to the 55th floor, go up one flight to 56, then take the elevator two flights to 58, and then another flight until you find yourself soaring above the crowds. With the sleek white decor, intimate setting, ambient music, and unhindered 360° vistas, there is certainly an air of exclusivity here. Debuting in December of 2016, CRU was created to give guests an unparalleled experience, especially one with bubbly in hand. “The whole concept was a collaboration of many fine minds,” says David W. Nowak, Executive Assistant Manager Food and Beverage. “Red Sky was already here, but there was a need to do more. We wanted to give our guests something different, that fantastic feeling of being on top of the world and match

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that with a luxury product such as G.H Mumm, one of the world’s finest champagnes.” We revel in this thought as we sip on Mumm’s No 1 Pink (B799/ glass, B4,700/bottle), a limited-edition rose champagne inspired from Formula One. Combining the floral and fruity flavours of a Pinot Noir and sweetness of Chardonnay, it’s a refreshing start to our evening. CRU is the only bar in Thailand with pouring rights to this particular drink. When you think of champagne, you immediately associate it as a drink that goes hand-in-hand with celebrations, and a hefty price tag. CRU keeps that misconception in check. We’re here on a Tuesday and notice the place is brimming with locals, tourists, and expats alike. The vibe here is casual and unpretentious, just how we like it midweek. Despite having the C-word embedded in their name, CRU offers its patrons more than just premium bubbly, including creative spirit and champagne cocktails, a selection of fine wines and single-malts, as well as finger food. Browsing through the menu it’s clear there is something on it for everyone,

and this is definitely a cause of cheers instead of caution. The list of carefully selected cocktails are what, according to Nowak, sets CRU apart from the rest. I couldn’t agree more. Take for instance, Shop Till You Drop (B700), a delightful concoction of Absolut Mandarin, Grand Marnier, Malibu and fresh fruit juices served in a plastic bag—quintessentially Thai—and in within a miniature supermarket trolley. It’s quirky and delicious all at once. This play on presentation and palate is carried on with Something Green (B650), a Midori, tequila, mango, and pineapple-based cocktail which comes topped with a floating duck, and Chilly Willy (B899) a blue curaçao and pineapple drink served in a penguinshaped glass; a personal favourite and a perfect libation to complement the twilight. by Reena Karim

CRU Champagne Bar

59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com bangkok101.com

review | NIGHTLIFE

Pirate Saloon

Thong Lor’s swashbuckling social spot (eyepatch optional)

ith walls covered in Jack Rogers skull and crossbones motifs and warnings that “dead men tell no tales”, there’s no mistaking Pirate Saloon for any other bar in Thong Lor. The rustic lighting features, tall vintage cabinets stocked with bottles of spirits, the large ship hanging over the bar, and a video display of an underwater cave against the back wall all create the impression that you’ve entered Davy Jones’ Locker. Occupying the bottom floor of the open-air community mall formerly known as Seenspace, this expansive swashbuckling themed restaurant and bar is an offshoot of Chit Lom’s Pirate Chambre. With an expansive drinks and dining menu, it’s an easy option and unique change of pace for groups looking for a night out. The Flying Dutchman (B380) offers a pleasingly spirit-forward drink in a menu dominated by sweeter and fruiter offerings. Made with Maker’s Mark bourbon-infused honey, dry vermouth, Angostura and Peychaud bitters, and Antica Formula, the herbal depth of the vermouth makes the blend somewhat reminiscent of a bangkok101.com

negroni, and a squeeze of the lemon garnish adds a subtle tang that plays well against the slight sweetness of the whiskey. Garnished with a red chili stuffed with mint, the fruitiness of the Blood Lust (B380) plays well with the salted rim of the glass. Made with Olmeca tequila, creme de cassis, vanilla syrup, lime juice, and dominated by the addition of fresh blueberry, the egg white foam gives the drink a frothy lightness that contrasts well against its strong flavours. The long list of ingredients in the Head Over Heels (B380) might sound overwhelming, but the Captain Morgan rum, pineapple juice, elder flower syrup, coconut cream, grenadine, and dry coconut pair well together to create a classically fruity beach drink. At first super sweet, the acidity of the pineapple and the subtlety of additional sweet and sour gives the blend a subtle tartness. The far syrupier Hail Stone (B380), made with a vodka and Frangelico base, is dominated by the unusual use of salted butter as a primary ingredient—a uniquely rich element complimented by a hint of passion

fruit. With a novel taste that’s difficult to pinpoint at first, it’s best enjoyed as a dessert cocktail, adding a sweet final note to the night. The expansive food menu serves up an enormous variety of dishes that include Thai cuisine, seafood, salads with sorbet, hot dogs, tacos, and pizza. A great accompaniment to any night of drinking, the Falabella Rustica (B390) is similar to a calzone, with Parma ham, truffle oil, and a generous amount of mozzarella folded between two thin sheets of crust. If you’re looking for slightly more sophisticated fare to soak up the alcohol, try the Sizzling Prawns Gambas (B420), a highlight of the kitchen’s seafood menu. Served in their shells and accompanied by toasted baguette, the freshness of the plump shrimp is complimented by the surprisingly delicate zest of the chili, garlic, paprika, and parsley. By Micaela Marini Higgs

Pirate Saloon

251/1, Thonglor Soi 13 Open daily: 6pm-2am Tel: 083 639 9919 www.facebook.com/piratearena.official M AY 2 0 1 8 | 1 0 3

NIGHTLIFE | review

Loads of Character

A pair of whisky and cigar bars that define elegance and sophistication

erving an array of rare and fine whiskies, the second outpost of Character Whisky & Cigar Bar is an exclusive lounge set on the 32nd floor of the Compass Skyview Hotel. The first Character bar opened in the Anantara Hotel Siam, a smaller, ground-level cove, perfect for hiding away with the newspaper, a cigar in one hand, a tumbler of whisky in the other. The second outpost followed a few months later, adding, this time, a breathtaking panoramic view of Bangkok—especially superb on the outdoor terrace. I take my seat inside, on one of the plush, leather armchairs and study the extensive index of whiskies (over 100 stocked), running through with my finger, pretending that I know what I’m doing. Prices range from B250 to B3,000 for a glass, so I’d better. I stop at ones with names I can pronounce, then tap on the description

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confidently, “Yes, yes, that one, please. Very good indeed”. The staff seem convinced and proceed to pour. Hepburn’s Choice is my choice also, a Scottish single malt (Fettercam 7 Year Old) and independently-bottled by the Langside Distillers—one of only 85 bottles. I slug back the amber liquor, it’s as smooth and silky as a firstborn’s tears. I feel vindicated. Then, I’m handed a cigar. I roll the stogie between my fingertips, raising it to my nose (I’ve seen other people do this). A leggy seductress—put there to lure me out of all of the money I don’t have—cuts the base and lights the front, handing it back to me. I chug with enthusiasm. It’s damn good. “Our best seller,” she tells me. I’m just some wash-ashore English goon out of his comfort zone, but this all seems rather spectacular. I find myself the happiest and most comfortable I’ve been since arriving in Bangkok a few weeks ago.

I read the cigar band: CAO Pilón Corona (Nicaragua). At first, it’s sweet and bready, like a 7-Eleven cinnamon roll, but then matures to a cedary finish. As fragrant as a novice cigarrollers inner top thigh. I knock back the rest of my whisky to refresh. “A refill, sir?” Leaving the comfort of my armchair, I enter the walk-in humidor for a blast of cold air—always 20°C, 70 percent humidity—and study the comprehensive library of over 100 premium, hand-made cigars. Beautifully crafted, musky boxes carry imports from Cuba, Nicaragua, Brazil, Ecuador, and the Dominican Republic, some with small signs noting top honours from industry magazines such as Cigar Snob and Cigar Aficionado. Returning to the comfort of my chair, I’m given a liberal serving of Old Pulteney (12 Years Old) from Caithness in the Highlands, along with my choice of three bottles of Scottish spring water. Not one, three. My cigar is re-lit and handed back to me with a smile. Ah, what a place! A three-tier membership here starts at B45,000 (Kennedy Membership), B95,000 (Castro Membership), and finally an eyewatering—or is it the smoky room— B165,000 (Churchill Membership), with varying benefits and privileges, though, walk-ins are also welcome. Brimming with 'character', ahem, and class, I think I'll probably go back tonight. by David J. Constable NOTE: The whiskies—as well as bourbons, rums, cognacs, and wines— are available as single servings or bottles, and single cigars are available as well as boxes.

Character Whisky & Cigar Bar 32/F, Compass Skyview Hotel 12, Sukhumvit Soi 24, Tel: 02 011 1133 Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel Gf, 155 Rajadamri Rd, Tel: 02 254 4726 www.facebook.com/characterbar

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listings | NIGHTLIFE

BAR The Bar

Featuring a black and gold colour theme, and both indoor and outdoor seating, this 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated, quiet, and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 7am-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Evil Man Blues

This retro cocktail bar promises only top-shelf spirits, housemade mixers, and fresh garnishes. Meanwhile, live music by renowned jazz musicians creates a close-knit vibe. GF, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

Duke

Although it’s in a mall, this high-end whisky and cigar lounge—full to bursting

bangkok101.com

with paintings and sculptures—feels more like a SoHo warehouse loft space owned by an eccentric millionaire. 1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 094 647 8888 Open daily: 11am-midnight facebook.com/pg/duke.gaysorn

J. Boroski Mixology

A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com

The Living Room

Flava Bar & Lounge

Taking its visual cue from the private wet bar of British fashion designer Paul Smith, this fun and funky hangout also boasts Bangkok’s “longest happy hour”, which stretches from 5pm till midnight, every day of the week. 2F, Dream Hotel, 10, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Open daily: 5pm-midnight Tel: 02 254 8500 www.dreamhotels.com/bangkok

Home to one of the finest live jazz stages in Bangkok, this nightspot is tastefully decorated, and includes a sweeping bar, comfortable armchairs and sofas, and subdued lighting—not to mention fine whiskies, cocktails, and cognacs. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 1F, 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily: 9am-midnight Tel: 02 649 8353 www.thelivingroomatbangkok.com

Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar

A world-class wine bar that isn’t just all about wine. There’s dozens of vinos to choose from, as well as some exciting

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NIGHTLIFE | listings options for the non-wine-inclined, while refined, rustic European cuisine is served up tapas-style for social dining. 2F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1133 Open daily: 11am-midnight www.riedelwinebarbkk.com

Riverside Grill

While the restaurant’s “healthy menu” offers great meal deals, enjoying cool crafted cocktails by the riverside is an equally pleasant attraction here. Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers 2, Charoen Krung Soi 30 Open daily: 4pm to 1am Tel: 02 266 0123 www.royalorchidsheraton.com

MahaNakhon Cube Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 001 0697 Open daily: 10am-late www.voguelounge.com

ROOFTOP SKY BAR Amorosa

A sultry, Moroccan-style balcony bar offering balmy river breezes, sour-sweet cocktails, and a showstopper of a view over the Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun in the distance. 4F, Arun Residence Hotel 36-38, Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Rd. Tel: 02 221 9158 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.arunresidence.com

Attitude

Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant

This sophisticated (and elevated) drink spot and bistro offers tipplers both a novel-sized wine list, and a host of creative cocktails—many of which make use of in-house infused spirits. 37F, Pullman Hotel Bangkok G Open daily: 6pm-late Tel: 096 860 7990 www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk

TacoChela by Mikkeller

The combination of craft beer, fine spirits, and mouth-watering Mexican fare has made this taqueria an instant hit. Ari Samphan Soi 1 Open: Tue-Thu, 5pm-11pm, Fri-Sat, 5pm-midnight facebook.com/tacochelabkk

Vogue Lounge

This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and former chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks. 1 0 6 | M AY 2 0 1 8

This sky-high drinking and dining spot boasts an inventive cocktail menu, delicious tapas-sized nibbles, and Instagram-worthy desserts, but the view overlooking the river is what really commands the attention here. 26F, Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 431 9100 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am minorhotels.com/en/avani/riverside-bangkok

Mojjo

This elegantly appointed sky-high, Latinflavoured cocktail joint offers guests exceptional views. Light meals are also on offer to accompany evening tipples. 32F, Compass SkyView Hotel 12, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 011 1111 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/mojjoloungebar

Moon Bar & Vertigo

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Hotel offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for a romantic rendezvous. 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar

Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on

the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm-7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit 2, Sukhumvit Soi 57 Open daily: 5pm-2am Tel: 02 797 0000 www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open Daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Rooftop Terrace at Penthouse Bar + Grill

This dramatic skybar is the perfect spot to drink in Bangkok’s nighttime skyline in an outdoor garden lounge setting. Order anything from a bucket of drinks, to curated cocktails and expertly crafted bites. 36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Sky On 20

At this stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok. Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE

Zoom Sky Bar & Restaurant

Meet, sip, and dine overlooking the city at this well-designed venue, offering innovative culinary experiences and 360° cityscape views. 40F, Anantara Sathorn Hotel Bangkok 36 Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd. Tel: 02 210 9000 Open daily: 6pm-1am bangkok-sathorn.anantara.com

CLUB

8 on Eleven

A gastro bar with a modern industrial twist and a 2nd floor dance area, this nightlife venue offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes with a modern twist. 14, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 093 421 1991 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/8oneleven

Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best

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sound systems. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am www.beamclub.com

Club SX

Each section of this ultra-glam 1,000 sq.m club—Diamond Zone, Platinum Zone, Gold Zone, Cowboy Zone, Romantic Zone, Bar Zone, and VIP karaoke rooms—features a different theme and music. Hummer limousine service is also available. 6F, Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke Rd) Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 9pm-late www.sxdance.club

in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers who can’t get enough. 6F, 35, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 082 308 3246 Open daily: 9pm-2am www.facebook.com/levelsclub

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House— decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

The Firm

Within this upscale five-storey lounge, nightclub, and all-round watering hole, the 1st and 2nd floors are home to a restaurant and bar, offering continental pan-Pacific fare, while the 3rd floor—and the VIP access 4th and 5th floors—are all about the beat, with hip hop DJs performing regularly and mixologists performing their magic behind the bar. 10/4, Sukhumvit 33 Alley Open daily: 9pm-2am Tel: 065 880 0333 www.thefirmbangkok.com

Levels

One of the most reliably busy nightclubs

Narz

Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance crowd moving for over two decades with their wild party atmosphere. Perfect for groups who want to make it their playground for the night.

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NIGHTLIFE | listings 112, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 4805 Open daily: 9pm-3am www.narzclubbangkok.net

PUBS The Australian

A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. 37, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 0800 Open daily: 9am-late www.theaustralianbkk.com

Beer Republic

The familiar interior welcomes with TV screens running sports highlights and comfy seating all round. The beer selection, meanwhile, reveals a litany of Belgian, German, Danish, and British brews—a selection of over 70 beers in fact, catering to connoisseurs and movies alike. GF, Holiday Inn Bangkok 971 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0080 Open daily: 11:30am-1am www.beerrepublicbangkok.com

The Drunken Leprechaun

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours, and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4, Sukhumvit 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

The Huntsman

English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a Sunday roast like no other. GF, The Landmark Hotel 138 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 254 0404 Open daily: 11:30am-2am www.landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub

The Londoner

It’s the only purpose-built British pub in Bangkok, and it’s also the oldest microbrewery in the city (it first opened in 1997, and was originally located on 1 0 8 | M AY 2 0 1 8

Sukhumvit Soi 33). In its current location the building itself is new, but once you enter the doors you feel as though you are in an old style ‘local’. 1178 Pattanakarn Rd. Tel: 02 022 8025 Open daily: Mon-Sat, 11am-midnight, Sun, 9am-midnight www.the-londoner.com

Mulligan’s Irish Bar

A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com

LIVE MUSIC

Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com

Black Cabin

Half the space at Wild & Co. restaurant is given over to this brick-walled pub which eschews the mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists. Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/blackcabinbar

SoulBar

Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 945 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok

Spasso

Apoteka

Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this lively spot has a casual old-school feel, indoor and outdoor seating, an awesome line-up of live music almost every day of the week, tasty bar snacks, and a drink selection including beer and custom craft cocktails. No dress code, no cover charge, and no pretention! 33/28, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 090 626 7655 Open daily: Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am, Fri, 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun, 3pm-midnight www.apotekabkk.com

Bamboo Bar

A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000

A favourite among visitors and expats looking to let their hair down. By day, it’s a charming Italian restaurant. After hours, it transforms into a club and cocktail bar with live music every night of the week. 494 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 1234 Open daily: 12pm-2.30pm, 6:30pm-2.30am bangkok. grand.hyatt.com

Saxophone

A must-visit live music joint, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every single night of the week. 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 246 5472 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.saxophonepub.com

The Zuk Bar

The ideal place for aperitifs or after dinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view, and enjoy live jazz by Coco Rouzier, Wednesday to Saturday nights and during the weekly Sunday brunch. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sukhothai.com bangkok101.com

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

id you know that “axe throwing” is actually a recognized sport? Furthermore, did you know that Bangkok now has its own axe throwing league and a very large, dedicated clubhouse? Located in the northern end of the city—a short drive north of the Lad Prao MRT station—the Golden Axe Throw Club (3 Lat Phrao Wang Hin Alley 67) opened its doors to a bemused public at the end of 2017. But its popularity has steadily grown, especially amongst Japanese and Western expats, and as of this month an official league will begin active competitions. The club’s burly and bearded Canadian-born owner Ryan Nelson (pictured), a native of Pickering, Ontario, is himself a 3-time National Axe Throwing Federation (NATF) league champion, and he vows to enlighten Bangkok residents about the joys of axe throwing. “It’s a sport that you can get good at within an hour, or as little as five throws if you listen to our instructions,” he explains, adding that it’s also a sport you can play while having a beer. And with that in mind, the bar here stocks a selection of hard-tofind Canadian craft beers priced in the B240 range (alongside Japanese imports and Thai beers). In truth, axe throwing sounds more dangerous than it actually is, and Ryan is adamant that all safety protocols have been set in place. Closed toe shoes are mandatory, and the half dozen or so wide, brightly-lit throwing lanes are fenced off so axes won’t ricochet where they’re not supposed to. Basically, the concept is similar to bowling, archery, or a gun shooting range, where accuracy, form, and technique reign supreme over brute strength. So if you think you’re going to vent some pent up warrior aggression, think again. The venue is open Wednesday and Thursday from 4pm till 11pm, and Friday to Sunday from 11am till 11pm. For B500 per person you get one-hour of unlimited axe throwing on a pair of shared lanes, or for B800 per person you can book a two-hour private event with a group of friends. It’s time to release your inner lumberjack! www.axethrowingbangkok.com Find out more about the weird and wonderful sports on offer in Bangkok in our cover feature (starting on page 14).

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