Bangkok101 Magazine November 2017

Page 1

PRESENT

CHEF ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ Two nights only ~ December 8-9, 2017

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mbark on an unforgettable Culinary Experience as Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, of the 2-Michelinstarred Mugaritz restaurant in Spain, prepares his “Techno-Emotional� Spanish cuisine in The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn Feed your senses with an extraordinary 13-course dinner prepared by award-winning Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, alongside resident Chef Fatih Tutak, in The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn. THB 11,500++/person additional THB 2,500++/person for wine pairing package December 8-9, 2017 Start time is 7:30 PM The House on Sathorn Very limited seats available! Online reservation (full pre-payment is required) is available at bit.ly/ mugaritz-online For more information, call 02 344 4025, or email thehouseonsathorn@whotels.com. www.thehouseonsathorn.com/mugaritz

About Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz For nearly two decades, Spain native Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz has been the creative force behind the famed Mugaritz restaurant. The venue, in San Sebastian (Spain’s Basque region) holds two Michelin stars and is currently ranked number nine on the prestigious list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, sponsored by S. Pellegrino & Acqua Panna. Chef Andoni’s early culinary career included a tenure at Catalonia’s El Bulli, renowned as the home of Chef Ferran Adrià. In the years since, along with establishing Mugaritz he’s also authored or contributed to more than 20 books on cookery. Among several awards Chef Andoni has received is the S. Pellegrino “Chef’s Choice Award”, bestowed upon him by fellow chefs in 2006 and 2012. While in Bangkok Chef Andoni will not only prepare two magnificent 13-course dinners, he’ll also be conducting a special not-to-bemissed Masterclass Luncheon, which will take place on Thursday, December 7th. For more information on how to reserve your spot, visit the website at: www.thehouseonsathorn.com/mugaritz

About The House on Sathorn Since opening in 2015, The House on Sathorn has become recognized as one of the city’s most distinctive food and drink venues. The neo-classical structure, dating from 1889, functioned first as private residence. By the 1920s it had become a hotel, then later, from midcentury to 1999, it served as site of the Russian embassy. Today, The House on Sathorn building and its grounds – directly adjacent to the W Bangkok hotel – comprise four separate venues: the award-winning signature restaurant The Dining Room; outdoor bistro The Courtyard; the timeless destination drink spot known simply as The Bar; and the Upstairs and The Conservatory areas, perfect for meeting and social gatherings.

About Chef Fatih Tutak Originally hailing from Istanbul, Turkey, Director of Culinary Fatih Tutak oversees all food and drink operations at The House on Sathorn. The chef’s distinctive menus are inspired by the diverse culinary traditions of his homeland. With the intention to invent a new culinary language and deliver a new kind of dining experience, Chef Fatih has recently introduced ‘Modern Turkish Influenced Cuisine’ at The Dining Room. Chef Fatih has worked at many of the world’s most celebrated and awardwinning dining establishments—including the world-renowned restaurant NOMA in Copenhagen and the 3-Michelin-starred Nihonryori Ryugin in Tokyo. Recently, one of his greatest accomplishments was having his signature restaurant, The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn, be listed as one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2017.

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Publisher’s Letter

he Thai lunar celebration known as Loy Krathong, in which citizens make offerings of thanks to the gods of the nation’s rivers and lakes, usually falls in the month of November. Bearing this in mind, our November issue is, therefore, the perfect one in which to celebrate Bangkok’s mighty Chao Phraya River, which winds its way through the heart of this manic metropolis. Historically, the Chao Phraya has been the main artery of the city, transporting goods in and out of Bangkok and transporting people from one end of town to the other—and without the horrendous traffic jams! A great number of Bangkok’s most important historic and cultural landmarks are situated within close proximity to this river, and many communities still call the banks of this twisting, serpentine waterway home. The riverfront is also a great place for visitors and residents alike to enjoy drinks at sunset and fine dining overlooking the water, and the number of Chao Phraya boat cruises offering both these diversions is increasing every year (see pgs. 18 and 26). However, over the past decade developers have set their sights squarely on this patch of prime real estate, and as of late riverside developments are taking over much of the space once occupied by river residents. It’s a contentious issue, and one that we examine as part of our overall cover story (see pg. 20). But there’s more to Thailand than just rivers, as we show in our special travel feature (starting on pg. 54). Stretching along the northeastern edge of the Gulf of Thailand, the Eastern Economic Corridor (EEC), is a burgeoning tourism hub which includes Pattaya, Bangsaray, Rayong, and the islands of Koh Chang, Koh Mak, and Koh Kood. Add to this our usual arts and entertainment coverage, and you’ve got an issue overflowing with good reading. All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101. Enjoy. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence info@talisman.asia. Publisher

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

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CONTENTS 20

CITY PULSE 14

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

16

My Bangkok In conversation with Khun Khanitha Akaranitikul

18

Best of BKK Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River is an iconic natural landmark, providing so much to so many—but recent redevelopment projects are about to change things considerably

26

Riverfront Dining Baan Khanitha River Cruise; Supanniga X Roots

30

On The Block Enjoying sundowners by the river

32

Out & About Exploring the city’s network of khlongs

34

Riverside Map A guide to the landmarks and venues mentioned in our river-related articles

LIVING IN STYLE 36

Lifestyle Updates

38

Property Profile Four Seasons Private Residences; 185 Rajadamri Condominiums

SNAPSHOTS 42

Tom’s Two Satangs On Bangkok

44

Bizarre Thailand Rockabilly rebels Trix O’ Treat

On the cover

With a combination of amazing food and stunning views of Wat Arun, the recently opened Supanniga X Roots is the riverside restaurant this city has been waiting for. See more on page 28. www.supannigaeatingroom.com

38

62

46

Joe’s Bangkok The Bangkok Screening Room is a treat for film lovers

48

Very Thai Songs For Life – Part 2

50 Heritage Historic properties that flank the riverbanks

TRAVEL 54

Go East 101 In this special 16-page travel destination feature we explore travel along the ever-growing Eastern Economic Corridor (EEC)

56

Islands to the East Koh Chang; Koh Mak; Koh Kood

64

Focus on Rayong Holiday Inn Rayong Hotel & Suites

66

Focus on Chonburi Hidden treasures await in Sattahip

68

Making Merit Ladyboys compete in a charity water volleyball tournament

70

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand

Photography by Dave Stamboulis

Bangkok 101 is available at: 10 | NOV EM BER 2017

bangkok101.com

ALL NEW STILL AUTHENTIC REOPENING IN NOVEMBER

THE SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK South Sathorn Road, Bangkok +66 (0) 2344 8888 www.sukhothai.com

CONTENTS 72

ART & CULTURE 72

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

76

Museum Spotlight Pipit Bang Lamphu District Museum

78

Arts Festivals International Dance Festival; Unfolding Kafka Festival

81

Music Makers A sneak peek at the upcoming Wonderfruit Festival

82

Photo Feature Winning images from the 2017 World Press Photo Contest

95

114

FOOD & DRINK 88

Food & Drink Updates

90

Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners

91

Hot Plates Bunker

92

Special Report The House on Sathorn welcomes Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz from the Michelin-starred Mugaritz restaurant in Spain

94

Restaurant Reviews Silver Waves; Thiptara; Mango Tree; Islero; Benihana

102

Breaking Bread with Clément Hernandez from Brasserie Cordonnier

104

Eat Like Nym Eclectic tastes at Sallim Restaurant

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE 112

Nightlife Updates

114

Bar Reviews Riverside Grill; Trader Vic’s; TacoChela by Mikkeller

118

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

SIGNING OFF 122

Did You Know?... The Chee Chin Khor Temple by the river offers amazing views from the top of its 8-storey pagoda

ART DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTING

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Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120

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STRATEGISTS

Mason Florence

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

106

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GENERAL MANAGER

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ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

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© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CITY PULSE | metro beat

NOVEMBER’S HOTTEST TICKETS November 11

In a follow-up tour to coincide with the TV series Bolt of Talent, where multiple Grammy award-winning singer and songwriter Michael Bolton searches for his next protégé in Asia, the American-born pop culture icon will be performing live in concert at Muang Thai Gmm Live House (8F, Central World). Doors open at 7pm, and tickets range in price from B2,500 to B8,500 for the special ‘Meet & Greet’ package. www.thaiticketmajor.com

THAI CELEBRATION November 3

Each year on Loy Krathong—the night of the 12th lunar month (usually in November)—Thai people gather around lakes, rivers, and canals to pay respects to the goddess of water by releasing onto the water beautiful lotus shaped rafts decorated with candles, incense, and flowers. The sight of thousands of candlelit krathongs reflecting on the water is a truly magical site, and there are plenty of places in Bangkok where you can witness the festivities. Riverside locations include: Asiatique, Wat Saket, Phra Athit Pier, Saphan Taksin bridge, and the Maharaj Lifestyle Mall. Popular lakes and ponds to observe the festivities include: Lumphini Park, Benjasiri Park, and Benjakiti Park.

November 16

If you don’t have a ticket yet for the first ever Thailand appearance by the red-headed, UK-born singer songwriter sensation Ed Sheeran, chances are you might never get one (the initial run of tickets sold-out almost immediately). But… hope springs eternal. The coveted tickets for this much anticipated concert—at Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani)—range in price from B1,800 to B5,500. www.thaiticketmajor.com

November 21

For an evening of psychedelic indie rock, don’t miss Western Australia’s own Pond, who bring their far-out pulsating psych-rock epic sounds to Nakarin Space (399/1 Srinakarin Rd, Huamark) for one night only. Admission to the gig is B2,000. www.thaiticketmajor.com

November 21

Voted one of the “100 Greatest Guitarists of the 20th Century” by Musician Magazine, American blues, jazz, and rock guitarist Robben Ford will be wowing local guitar geeks when he and his band take the stage at the Himmapan Avatar Theatre (Show DC complex, Jaturatid Rd). Having collaborated with everyone from Miles Davis to Joni Mitchell, George Harrison, Larry Carlton, and Kiss, this music industry legend is finally getting his own time in the spotlight. Tickets are B2,600, B2,300, B2,000, and B1,700. www.thaiticketmajor.com

AMERICAN TRADITION November 23

In the United States the fourth Thursday of November is celebrated as Thanksgiving Day, a time for families to gather together and celebrate with a feast that includes traditional dishes such as roast turkey with stuffing and cranberry sauce, glazed ham, mashed potatoes, and pumpkin pie. Expect several Bangkok hotels and American style restaurants to get in on the festivities by offering festive feasts of their own. See our Meal Deals (pg. 90) for sumptuous suggestions. 14 | NOV EM BER 2017

November 27

Witness the debut performance of Alt-J—winners of British Mercury Prize in 2012—at Moonstar Studio 8 (Ladprao Soi 80). Hailing from Leeds, UK, this guitar, bass and sampler group began as a quartet but this year they released their 3rd studio album, Relaxer, as a trio. Tickets are B2,290 and showtime is 9pm. www.ticketmelon.com bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

FRENCH FESTIVAL IN THAILAND November 24-25

The annual La Fete Festivial of French culture has several events this month, including a street art performance by Le G Bistaki entitled Cooperatzia. The show, which consists of five actors and actresses, will transform the Museum of Siam (4 Sukchai Rd, next to Wat Pho) into a showcase for French classical music. Expect the unexpected! Admission is free and start time is 7pm. For more information, visit: www.facebook.com/lafete.festival

ITALIAN FESTIVAL IN THAILAND November 4, 10, 11, 19

The Bangkok International Piano Festival, as part of the ongoing Italian Festival in Thailand 2017, presents three outstanding performances this month. On Saturday the 4th acclaimed pianist Pietro Bonfilio will be at the Siam Ratchada Auditorium (Fortune Town, Basement Floor) for a 7pm show. Tickets can be Giuseppe purchased at the venue. Then—on Friday the 10th at Albanese 7pm, and Saturday the 11th at 4pm—Stefano Bollani performs with the Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra, combining classical music with jazz from every genre at the Prince Mahidol Hall (999 Phuttamonthon 4 Rd, Salaya). Finally, on Sunday the 19th don’t miss the solo piano performance by Giuseppe Albanese, one of the most soughtafter Italian pianists of his generation. The show is at the Sala Sudasiri Sobha (Lat Phrao 41 Alley, Lane 7-2) and begins at 4pm. For more information about upcoming Italian Festival in Thailand 2017 events, visit the official Facebook page at: www.facebook.com/italianfestivalthailand

EDM FESTIVAL Cashmere Cat

November 17-19, 24-26

Over the two weekends Beam nightclub and the entire 72 Courtyard complex (72, Sukhumvit Soi 55) will transform each day—from 4pm to 2am—into an array of multiple music stages, food and bar pop-ups, live art performances, and plenty of other quirky attractions, including an epic slide and a star-watching hanging net. The DJ line-up features international names like Skream, Cashmere Cat, HVOB, No Regular Play, Swindail, and Teenage Mutants, while local talents include the likes of The Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band, DCNXTR, and Beam’s resident kick-ass DJs. Tickets are B1,500 for 3 days, and B2,500 for all 6 days, and can be purchased at: go.eventpop.me/beamfest2017. www.beamfest.com

THAI CRAFT BEER FESTIVALS November 17-19, 24-25

There are two big beer events this month, beginning with The Great Thai Beer Festival, running from November 17th to the 19th, organized by Changwon Express in collaboration with Flow House (120/1, Sukhumvit Soi 26). Later in the month, the second edition of the Thailand Brew Festival gets underway from November 24th to 25th, at Quaint Bangkok (23, Sukhumvit Soi 61), organized by Smiling Mad Dog distributors. bangkok101.com

Tom Rhodes

COMEDY SHOWS November 10, 17

There’s hilarity every Friday at the Comedy Club Bangkok (Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 above The Royal Oak pub) but on November 10th at 8:30pm don’t miss a special appearance by Comedy Central legend Tom Rhodes—a truly international stand-up comedian with over 30 years in the game. Tickets are B600 in advance (B800 on the door). You can also catch Tom Rhodes on the 9th in Phuket (Underwood Art Factory), on the 11th in Pattaya (Robin Hood Tavern), and on the 12th in Hua Hin (Ace Bar & Bistro). Then, on November 17th at 8:30pm, another Comedy Central star—Alex Hooper— drops by the Comedy Club Bangkok. For this performance he’ll be sharing the stage with famed LA comic Jerry Brandt. Don’t miss this zany doubleheader! Tickets are B500 in advance, and B700 on the door. www.comedyclubbangkok.com

THEATRE SHOW November 2-4, 9-11

Circle Mirror Transformation, written by Annie Baker, is an award winning modern play that questions the idea of what acting actually is, making audiences question what it is to act, and how people go about learning how to do it. It’s an absorbingly natural yet outrageously funny play— appropriate for audiences aged 15 and over—and will be performed at the M Theatre BlueBox Studio (2884/2 New Petchaburi Rd) on the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, and the following week on the 8th, 9th, and 10th. Showtime each evening is 7:30pm. Tickets are B500 each, and available on the Bangkok Community Theatre website. www.bangkokcommunitytheatre.com NOV EM BER 2017 | 15

CITY PULSE | my bangkok

Khanitha Akaranitikul Fashion designer turned restaurateur, Khun Khanitha Akaranitikul is the Managing Director and Chairperson of Baan Khanitha Group, and her current quartet of restaurants offer Thai fine dining on both the land and the water.

in February. The boat is custommade. I have one interior designer— who designed the Asiatique location—and I said “I’m going to need a boat, can you design it?” and he did. I told him what I wanted, including a full kitchen on board, and he made it. He’d never designed a boat before, but he made his first sketch and I liked it right away.

Tell us about your early years. I was born in Ratchaburi province, about 100 km from Bangkok. I moved to Bangkok to go to high school, and later I went abroad for a short period of time, attending a small college in UK. Before getting into the restaurant business you had a successful career in the fashion world. How did that initial career begin? Well, I had to make a living so I went for a short time to a fashion design school in Bangkok. I then opened up a small boutique and later expanded to eight boutiques, including one in New York and one in Germany. But then the economy went bad and so I decided to switch from fashion to the restaurant business. At that time I was a single mother with three kids to look after. In 1993 I opened the first Baan Khanitha on Sukhumvit Soi 23. And it’s still there. What gave you the idea to switch from fashion to food? When I was in the fashion business I had to entertain many of my customers, and in those days you could hardly find a nice restaurant. So I thought, if I want to start another career, I’d go into the restaurant business.

What makes your Chao Phraya River dinner cruise unique? The unique thing is that we cook the meals right there on-board. The food is still warm, and fresh, when you get it.

Do you use traditional family recipes? Some of them, yes. I used to eat my mother’s cooking so I use those recipes, but I adapt and change them a bit. I add my own style.

The Asiatique restaurant is located right on the river. What drew you to this location? My hometown is on the riverside, and I grew up by the river. And the house I live in today is by the Chao Phraya, so I can safely say I like the river. I see it passing by my house How many Baan Khanitha restaurants every day. I intended to have a restaurant on the river at some point, are there in Bangkok? and we opened the Asiatique branch There are four. The one on about five years ago. Sukhumvit 23 was the first, and the one on Sathorn, at the corner of How did the idea come about for the Suan Phlu, was the second. It used Baan Khanitha dinner river cruise, to be on Soi Ruamrudee but the and how did you find the boat? permit expired and so we moved. I like the river and I like to be in The third is on Sukhumvit Soi 53, boats, so I thought a dinner boat and the fourth is at Asiatique. All cruise would be a nice addition. We are differently designed but they all began doing the dinner cruises back follow the same recipes. 16 | NOV EM BER 2017

Are you in favour of development along the Chao Phraya, or do you think it should be slowed down somewhat? As long as they don’t destroy the environment and they don’t disturb the people I think it’s fine. And it’s going to make the river into a new landmark for Bangkok. What are some of your favourite riverside spots in Bangkok? I love it all. I can enjoy it every time I am in the boat. I never feel bored. What does the future hold? We’ll be launching a second river cruise boat, so that’s coming along. It will be a similar designed boat and available for charter, same as the first boat. And maybe we will open a restaurant in the new Icon Siam… if it’s not too expensive (laughs). Interview by Bruce Scott NOTE: See page 26 for more on the Baan Khanitha dinner river cruise. www.baan-khanitha.com bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Take Me to the River

The mighty Chao Phraya is perhaps Bangkok’s most diverse civic landmark By Bruce Scott

A

lternatively known as ‘The River of Kings’, the Chao Phraya is 372 km in length, beginning at the confluence of the Ping and Nan rivers in Nakhon Sawan province, and flowing southward through Bangkok and eventually emptying into the Gulf of Thailand. The expanse of the river and its tributaries is known as the Chao Phraya River System and, together with the land upon which falling rain drains into these bodies of water, it forms the Chao Phraya Watershed—the largest watershed in Thailand, covering approximately 35 percent of the nation’s land. The Chao Phraya basin is home to around 280 species of fish, however the Thai Pollution Control Department (PCD) reports that the water quality has seriously deteriorated in the past decade, primarily due to discharge into the river from industry, agriculture, and households. But despite the questionable quality of the water itself, this mighty river continues to be a major landmark and tourist draw within Bangkok. If you were to sail along just a small portion of the snaking expanse of this winding waterway—starting from The Siam hotel (just north of the Krung Thon Bridge), and ending at the Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort (just north of the Rama III Bridge)—you would make your way past some of the most iconic landmarks in the city, including Wat Pho, the Grand Palace, and Wat Arun. Small wonder that so many tourist cruises ply this stretch of the river (and beyond), making it one busy thoroughfare. There’s also plenty of new development by the river, and one of the newest Old Town hotels nearby this majestic waterway is the recently opened Raweekanlaya Bangkok (164-172 Krung Kasem Rd). Originally built in the late 1800s as the residence of King Rama VI, this boutique hotel now features 38 rooms, each inspired by a poem from Thai literature. There’s also an on-site spa, a swimming pool and pool bar, and a restaurant—the Raweekanlaya Dining—which uses organically-sourced produce and features a garden where guests can pick their own ingredients. It makes the perfect riverside retreat for a sophisticated staycation. www.raweekanlaya.com 18 | NOV EM BER 2017

CHOOSE YOUR CRUISE The luxurious Anantara Riverside Bangkok Hotel offers a series of fascinating river-related trips, from single day excursions to overnight journeys.

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Explore the cultural riches and observe local life along Bangkok’s fascinating maze of canals with Anantara’s Khlong Guru one-day excursion. The Chao Phraya River and its connecting maze of canals—known in Thai as khlongs—offer visitors a peek into the capital’s thriving age-old lifestyle and rich heritage. Based on his personal experience Waiyawit ‘Diamond’ Thongserm, the resort’s concierge, has created these special tours and accompanies guests as the khlong “guru”. The tour takes approximately four hours, with lunch being enjoyed at The Artist’s House, an intriguing gallery where guests can browse a collection of locally inspired artwork. The cost is B2,000 per person, and the daily tour leaves the pier at 11am.

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Embark on a voyage of culinary discovery with Anantara’s Manohra Dining Cruise. The ship—a beautifully restored antique rice barge—leaves the Anantara Riverside Bangkok’s private pier at 7:30 pm when the river is at its most romantic. Set sail at a gentle pace, and as you pass by the city’s illuminated landmarks you’ll be savouring the Kingdom’s most popular regional cuisine with a ‘Royal Thai Set Menu’ prepared by experienced master chefs. Enjoy elegant cocktails and digestifs, alongside memorable main dishes, appetizers, and desserts, made even more memorable by Manohra’s warm and gracious service. This set menu is priced at B2,300 net per person. www.manohracruises.com

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If you have both a taste for adventure, and a taste for the finer things in life, join the Anantara’s unforgettable twonight, three-day Ayutthaya Adventure cruise. Travel upriver aboard a Colonial-style, 20-metre, ultra-deluxe river boat. Passengers will make the Chao Phraya River their home, stopping off to explore exotic temples such as Wat Mongkhon Bophit along the way. The vessel is designed for two couples, and the two staterooms (20 and 25 sq.m) are fully air-conditioned, with elegantly tiled en-suite bathrooms (with a full shower), and comfortable super king-sized beds dressed with delicate linen. The price is B89,000 net per cabin (based on double occupancy), and inlcudes all meals and non-alcoholic beverages onboard, as well as tour programmes, private round-trip limousine transfers, and admission charges at designated places. ANANTARA CRUISES Tel: 02 476 0022 | Email: bangkokcruises@anantara.com cruises.anantara.com

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Manohra Dining Cruise

Ayutthaya Adventure

Khlong Guru Cruise bangkok101.com

Luxurious Stateroom NOV EM BER 2017 | 19

Photos by Danaan Andrew

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Existing development along the length and breadth of the Chao Phraya River 20 | NOV EM BER 2017

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The Tides They Are a Changin’

For Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River the future seems clear, even if the details are a little murky By Micaela Marini Higgs

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or three years, the controversial Chao Phraya River Promenade has made headlines for everything from alleged architectural plagiarism to environmental concerns. With plans to build an elevated bike lane and public walkway along a 14-kilometre stretch of the river, this government project is just a small part of the redevelopment happening along the Chao Phraya as construction for malls like Icon Siam promise to dramatically change the area’s landscape. While riverside property has long been considered prime real estate nearly everywhere else in the world, Bangkok is only just now trying to catch up and capitalize on the city’s expansive waterfront. The cost of this catch up, which supporters hope will boost the local economy and provide a new way for the public to access the area, comes at the cost of communities who for generations have called the river home. If you’re wondering if you’ve missed some of the news about the current progress of the River Promenade, it’s likely you haven’t. Some of the government’s early plans were initially kept under wraps to avoid price speculation in the area, and even now Friends of the River—a group

which is the most vocal opponent to the Promenade— continues to conduct letter writing campaigns urging officials to carry out impact analysis surveys and to share their master plan. The auction where construction companies bid on the project has not yet been held, so construction on the Promenade has yet to begin. In July, the BMA reported that they expected to demolish 14 communities that month, adding to the five that were razed earlier this year in preparation for the project. Occupying public land, many of these communities have existed illegally for decades, running businesses and building lives along the river. Resettlement is a complicated issue the government must grapple with because while they can offer different accommodation, there’s no way to replace everything that residents face to lose, especially people like fisherman and scavengers who rely on the river to support themselves, or business owners who have lost their customer base and income. Some of those who have already been displaced and relocated to government buildings like the Kiek Kai Flats complain that their new accommodations are in poor condition. When speaking out to the local press about the building’s lack of utilities,

Artist’s rendering of the proposed River Promenade bangkok101.com

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Photo by Bruce Scott

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Temples and landmarks dot the riverbank

Yodpiman River Walk by night disrepair, and the higher cost of living, some residents added that they did not feel safe there. What has made this issue so polarizing among the public is the power imbalance between a government that can propose projects and share few public details, and poor locals with few resources and little choice but to leave and collect whatever compensation they receive. In countless media interviews many residents have expressed resignation, saying they have no choice but to accept the government’s decision. Critics of the project argue that a neighbourhood’s residents give it a unique sense of place and bring value and history to the area. By evicting them to homogenize 14 kilometres along the riverside, they argue, the development not only destroys communities but will also make the Chao Phraya look like any other urban riverfront in the world. Those who support the Promenade believe it will bring greater access to the river by inviting and attracting more people to the area and giving them a place to spend time. Attracting business and customers will allow remaining residents to become involved in new industries and generate opportunities for creative development. 22 | NOV EM BER 2017

They also point out that land encroachment has become a major issue not only for riverside development, but also for flood embankment projects in places like Klong Lat Phrao. Even if it weren’t for the current riverside development project, the issue of land encroachment was going to be raised eventually, whether in municipal projects to help curb flooding or future efforts to change the city’s infrastructure. Displacing residents might be an unavoidable cost of progress. If the development of the river has any impact on preservation efforts, it might be that it’s forcing certain groups to be selective, and proactive, about preserving buildings that might otherwise remain in decay. That’s what happened with Lhong 1919, a Chinese trading pier built in 1850 that was moldering until last year when the family who owned it began renovating the three buildings and restoring their original decorative elements. Set to open to the public in the first weeks of this month, the space will include art and design shops, eateries, and co-working spaces. When explaining to the Bangkok Post the catalyst that had pushed her family to preserve these buildings as a heritage site and lifestyle attraction, Rujiraporn Wanglee acknowledged that they didn’t want the land to become another riverside condo. As land prices rise, the need to value and invest in landmarks also increases. What constitutes “genuine historical value” might be difficult to pin down, and funding for renovation efforts isn’t always easy to come by, but many supporters of the project believe that truly important landmarks will remain, and even be better preserved, thanks to ongoing riverside development. The thinking goes that each individual shop house might not be unique or worthy enough of preservation, but that clearing the area will force the government to audit and determine which cultural landmarks are worth investing in while attracting private investors to projects like Lhong 1919. bangkok101.com

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Lhong 1919 by moonlight

Artist’s rendering of Icon Siam While the recent Yodpiman River Walk, which eradicated a large part of the historic flower market to build a shopping centre, was successfully completed, its mimicry of historical architectural failed to generate the same amount of interest and buzz that the city’s renovated sites have. This points to a growing boredom with cookie cutter malls, and explains part of the outcry against the homogeneity of the Promenade. For riverside development to generate something new and exciting, its offerings have to keep a sense of place that roots them in the Chao Phraya, rather than presenting a Sukhumvit or Sathorn Road transplant. The argument that the proposed designs, while beautiful, don’t have any identifiably Thai features or elements that draw from the Chao Phraya, is one of the recurring points made by Friends of the River. Their May injunction against the project, for violating maritime planning laws, and their campaigns demanding greater transparency around the planning process and calls for studies on the project’s ecological impact, have been a large part of keeping the controversy in the news. Besides advocating for the local community, and questioning the need and effectiveness of the Promenade, they also point out that the elevated bike path might negatively impact tourism by blocking businesses riverside views. bangkok101.com

While we have yet to receive an ecological survey with detailed information that addresses the questions raised by Friends of the River, defenders of the project are optimistic that the Promenade and other developments will aid the local environment. Because Bangkok’s khlongs all lead to the Chao Phraya, trash from across the city finds its way to the river and then out to sea, resulting in waters congested with plastic. Last month the annual ‘Clean Up Bangkok River’ event saw volunteers clearing trash from the water, collecting 132 kilograms of solid waste in one hour. While annual efforts help bring attention to the need to keep the river’s waters clean, they aren’t consistent enough to stop the onslaught of garbage that finds its way into the river thanks to the massive amounts of plastic bags and utensils handed out at street stalls and 7-11s. Defenders of the area’s redevelopment point out that as more tourism and business is attracted to the river, the incentives for investing in keeping the water clean will increase—if only to keep away the smell of warm garbage. While the exact fate of these projects and the changes that advocacy groups will be able to secure remains uncertain, it is clear that the Chao Phraya is changing. Piece by piece, the riverside is shifting from quiet residential neighbourhoods to lifestyle hotspots, filling with new galleries and restaurants. With major malls Rujiraporn Wanglee and son Waran set to open soon, the area can expect an influx in visitors and foot traffic. As we wait to see how the neighbourhoods along the river adapt to this newfound attention and business, we can only hope they retain the elements and unique atmosphere that attracted us all there in the first place. NOV EM BER 2017 | 23

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Riverside Retailers

There’s more by the river than just shimmering temples and high-rise hotels By Kelly Harvey

Asiatique, The Riverfront at night

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nown as the ‘River of Kings’, the Chao Phraya River has been used for centuries as a means of transportation to and from the Thai capital. There has always been a hustle and bustle surrounding the river, but in more recent years the riverside has attracted hordes of tourists, as well as locals, with its majestic temples, 5-star hotels, and scenic restaurants and bars popping up. Following in their wake, shopping malls have flocked to the river too—offering retail therapy with a view. From the Central Pier by BTS Saphan Taksin, hop on the free shuttle boat and head south down the river to Asiatique, The Riverfront. Built on what was once Thailand’s first international port—known as the Port of East Asiatic—Asiatique embraces history while avoiding the cultural clichés and traditional symbols. Split into four districts, Asiatique is Bangkok’s first large-scale riverside development combining shopping, dining, sightseeing, activities, and events all under one roof. In the Charoenkrung District, you’ll find both traditional and modern Thai culture through the performing arts, Thai puppet shows by the Joe Louis Theatre, the Calypso Cabaret, the exciting Muay Thai Live stage show, as well as massage shops and over 100 retailers selling Thai handicrafts, souvenirs, and home

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décor. The Town Square District blends Thai and Western ways of life, with an international dining scene and sports bars. The Factory District showcases all kinds of design products, from clothing to gadgets, while the Waterfront District boasts the city’s current longest public boardwalk (300m) and is lined with restaurants and event venues. All districts are open daily from 4pm to midnight.

The Jam Factory Back at the Central Pier, if you head north up the river, just across from Si Phraya Pier, you’ll find The Jam bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE Factory. What used to be an old factory, is now a creative space, restaurant, café, and bookshop. Brainchild of local starchitect Duangrit Bunnag (who also has his company offices at The Jam Factory), the glass-walled building has a modern industrial finish, while outside an enormous Bodhi tree provides welcome shade to a large grassed area—a frequent weekend hangout spot for students and local hipsters. Regular markets are held outside, as well as art exhibitions and installations in the gallery, so be sure to check out their Facebook page for more information about their latest events. Through November 12th, they’re hosting an exhibition by local artist Orn Suebsanguan entitled ‘Liquify’. Both the complex and the gallery are open daily from 11am to 8pm.

Period fixtures are fitted throughout the mall, yet the mall retains a calm, laid-back atmosphere—very much befitting of the Old Town, in which it is located.

Yodpiman Riverwalk

River City Bangkok Across from The Jam Factory on the east side of the river, directly accessible from the Si Phraya Pier, is River City Bangkok. With an eye-catching mirror-like façade, you can’t miss it, and the offerings inside the mall are just as spectacular as its exterior. In 2016 the five-storey shopping complex underwent a 280-million-baht renovation to feature glass panels, high ceilings, an elegant black, white, and gold colour scheme, plus over 100 stores selling rare artworks and antiques. Highly regarded for its collection of valuable art and antiques, River City Bangkok has become known as Asia’s premier art and antiques hub and the largest in Southeast Asia. Its popular monthly auction—which has been held continuously for the past 32 years—has also been certified by the Association for the Propagation and Promotion of objets d’art. Art exhibitions, film screenings, and workshops are also arranged all year round. Amongst the art and antique retailers, you’ll also find bespoke tailors, luxurious silks, beautiful jewellery, leather goods, and furniture design stores. On the lower floors, several restaurants and cafés, such as Viva Aviv and La Grande Perle, offer local and international fare, many which feature outdoor terraces overlooking the Chao Phraya River. The mall is open daily from 10am to 10pm, while the restaurants and cafés each have independent opening hours. Further up the river, at the Yodpiman Pier, the colonial style Yodpiman River Walk is a community mall inspired by Thailand’s rich history and diverse eras of capital cities. bangkok101.com

The complex is open daily from 10am to 1am and is filled with mainly restaurants and cafés (serving both Thai and international cuisines), as well as boutiques, spas and massage parlours, and several souvenir shops. Its main attraction, however, is its unobstructed views of Wat Arun, Wat Kalayanamit, and the Rama I Memorial Bridge. The views are best seen from the promenade on the second floor, but can also be enjoyed from any of the restaurants and cafés situated next to the river. If you fancy a stroll around the area, Yodpiman River Walk is also in close proximity to the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew, and Wat Pho; while directly behind the shopping complex, you’ll find the famous Yodpiman Flower Market—the biggest flower market in the country and the fourth biggest in the world.

Tha Maharaj Mall Also located in Bangkok’s Old Town, Tha Maharaj Mall was transformed from a string of traditional shop houses into a pavilion-styled community mall with over 60 restaurants and retail shops, a riverside promenade, and community garden, all spread across seven buildings. Also within walking distance of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew, and Wat Pho, Tha Maharaj is easily accessible from Maharaj Pier and is open daily from 10am to 10pm. During the week you’ll find it filled with students from nearby Thammasat University, while weekends are packed with families from the surrounding Phra Athit community. NOV EM BER 2017 | 25

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Baan Khanitha Cruise

Carefully curated Thai classics served on an elegant open-air riverboat By Zipporah Gene

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or two decades now Baan Khanitha has maintained a rock-solid reputation on Bangkok’s restaurant scene. With four famous branches—located across the city—it’s clear that the much-loved recipes of the former silk fashion designer Khanitha Akaranitikul have become part of the fabric of this bustling, ever-changing metropolis. And the latest addition to her restaurant mini-empire is the Baan Khanitha Cruise, a set-menu dinner on the river unlike any other. As Bangkok locals, we often take for granted such excursions, relegating them to the domain of those with more time than taste. However, with such a formidable reputation—and easy access from the pier adjacent to Baan Khanitha’s Asiatique The Riverfront branch—this particular cruise attracts all with the promise of fresh, sumptuous, quintessentially Thai dishes.

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On the evening of our visit the threat of thunderous rain and an ensuing lightning show loomed large, making it hard to imagine venturing onto a boat—least of all a dinner river cruise. However, Asiatique was nevertheless teeming with activity and by the time Baan Khanitha’s grand 16 metre antique rice barge made its entrance to whisk us away, the rain storm had subsided. Ornate and intricately decorated with a Thai colonial feel, the solid wooden barge oozed a restrained air of excellence and refinement. There has always been something quite kitsch about establishments that hold true to period costume and decorations, but here it just felt right. The décor is minimalist but bold, and effortlessly impresses from the moment you first place your foot on its solid teak decking (word of warning: those feet should probably not be wearing high-heels).

Once seated, and leaving the world of glaring lights and blaring music behind, our amuse-bouche immediately set the tone for the meal. Small, delicate parcels of fresh coconut, tangy lime, roasted peanuts, dried shrimp, sharp shallots, and ginger, served on Betel leaf with a light but piquant dressing, Miang Kham is, sadly, one traditional tidbit that is rarely served in restaurants in Bangkok nowadays. But you know something is being done well when the table is more engaged in eating than talking, and the starters haven’t even come out yet. Next up our waiter, in what can only be described as performance art, shepherded us through the sprawling array of appetizers. From the fluffy, flawlessly fried shrimp cakes with plum, to the spring rolls, light chicken dumplings, and a forgivingly spicy shredded chicken pomelo salad, everything—down to the very plates we ate off of—told bangkok101.com

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a story that gratified not just our bellies but our eyes. I’ll admit to being a bit cynical when I heard that Tom Yum Goong Nang would be part of the next course, however this version of the classic Thai soup definitely deserves its place on the menu. Bold and herby, with a well-spiced, intoxicating light broth, smatterings of silky wild mushrooms, and an oh-so very generously-sized prawn, it was difficult to maintain linear conversation whilst wolfing it all down. Showmanship is nothing to be scoffed at, so when the smoking lemon sorbet palate cleanser made its appearance the table was abuzz with delight. Of course, the better part of me knew that it was just the liquid nitrogen surrounding the plate that gave it an other-worldly look, but something about the deep lapping waves surrounding us, and the heavenly lit temples and bridges that drifted by, conspired to make every bite all the more special. Our palates were brought back down to earth with the congenial array of mains served with aromatic bangkok101.com

steamed brown and white rices. As we passed the imposing and awe-inspiring riverside view of the Grand Palace, out came red roast duck curry served in an intricately carved pumpkin, perfectly stir-fried bok choy with deliciously delicate mushrooms, and a wondrously explosive sweet and sour crispy sea bass. However, the best was saved to last. The giant grilled Ayutthaya river prawn was worth the journey alone. I could actually spend hours talking about how beautiful this dish was. If lobster and shrimp had a secret love-child, it would be in the form of this mouthwatering, meaty but light crustacean. Brushed with a conservative hint of sweet chili, I found myself wanting to prolong every single bite. The Platinum Dinner Set (B2,800), differs from the Gold (B2,400), simply because of this dish— but I couldn’t imagine skipping it! The background music on-board was as elegant as the entreés, and as Dvořák reached his crescendo and we made our way back down the river—having gone as far upstream as the Rama VIII Brdige—out came the

sweets. The crowd pleaser of mango and sticky rice served with coconut icecream, as well as a generous array of traditional Thai sweets, came with tea and coffee. The entire journey, which started at half-six and ended roughly around 9pm, felt amply long but in a way too short at the same time. The Chao Phraya River is in no danger of running out of river cruises to delight the revolving conveyor belt of tourists, but this is definitely one experience that locals can also look to enjoy as much as out-of-towners. Gazing into the deep shimmering waves around me, positively stuffed and satiated, engrossed by all the sights, I’ll admit to having fallen back in love with this city. Eating on the river—like this— needs to be on everybody’s bucket list.

Baan Khanitha by the River Asiatique, Charoenkrung Rd. 6:30pm: Check-in and register 7pm: Board at Asiatique Pier 9pm: Return to Asiatique Pier Tel: 063 474 6857, 063 474 6858 Email: info@baan-khanitha.com www.baan-khanitha.com

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CITY PULSE | riverside dining

Making a Splash

Supanniga X Roots is the riverside restaurant we’ve been waiting for

Photo by Dave Stamboulis

By Dave Stamboulis

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hile the banks of the Chao Phraya River may be a great place to take in the sunset, enjoy cool breezes, and have a romantic evening out, the chances of combining this experience with authentic top notch Thai food and a cool vibe venue are highly unlikely. The best you’ll get usually involves high prices and stuffy fine dining. Thus, the arrival of Supanniga X Roots is the biggest splash along the water to date, bringing together some of Bangkok’s top names in food and drink in an absolutely unbeatable location. If you aren’t familiar with Supanniga Eating Room, you should be. The restaurant’s two city branches (Thong Lor and Sathorn) have been on just about every Bangkok food critic’s list for the past several years. Owner and restaurateur extraordinaire Thanareuk Laoraowirodge opened Supanniga in order to pay homage to

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his late grandmother’s home recipes, which feature many dishes that come from Trat province—on Thailand’s Eastern seaboard—not easily found in most Bangkok establishments. Laoraowirodge is a master at combining diners’ nostalgia for homecooked meals with cool contemporary ambience, without bank-breaking prices. And he’s done this not only with Supanniga, but with his ode to Isaan cuisine, Somtum Der, whose New York branch received a Michelin star, and now has outlets in Ho Chi Minh, Tokyo, and soon-to-open Beijing (as well as a Bangkok branch over on Silom’s Sala Daeng Rd). And now, for his most recent rabbit-out-of-the-hat trick, Laoraowirodge has chosen possibly the most beautiful and iconic spot along the Chao Phraya to open his latest venture. Supanniga X Roots is nestled right up over the river, with the absolute

top city view of Wat Arun across the water. Colourful and chic divans with gold and red fluffy cushions grace a homey wood and terracotta two-storey home that looks out at the “Temple of Dawn”, which is now back to its status as Bangkok’s top twilight and night photo-op must (as all the scaffolding that has been covering it for the past several years has been completely removed). The sunsets here are epic, but the golden lit-up temple once the last light has faded is even better. You’ll have a hard time looking at the view though, or at least find it in fierce competition with your main reason for coming here, Supanniga’s down to earth and authentic Thai treats. The appetizer platter (B295), with Ma Hor, Mieng Yong, and Khaotang Namprik Kakmoo is a great way to start, featuring an array of small pork bits served with garlic on tangerine, or dried and shredded with bangkok101.com

Photo by Dave Stamboulis

Photo by Dave Stamboulis

riverside dining | CITY PULSE

roasted coconut wrapped in Cha Plu (wild betel) leaves, offering a spectrum of all of the Thai cuisine flavours— from spicy to tangy to sour. Look around and you’ll see that almost everyone has a bowl of the signature Moo Chamuang (B190) on their table, a succulent long-stewed pork curry, flavoured with garcinia leaves (a favourite in every Supanniga eatery). The tender braised pork melts in your mouth, mixing with the almost medicinal Thai herbs. Also on most tables will be a plate of Poo Ja (B250), ground crabmeat and pork that has been seasoned with pungent Chantaburi pepper and steamed inside a crab shell, making it wonderfully soft and bursting with flavour. Beverages are given as much devotion as the food here as well, with mixologist stalwarts Vesper creating cocktails like the earthy Krungthep Twilight (B280), which combines bangkok101.com

Ketel One vodka with a cider infusion, lemon, and pandanus syrup, or the wicked Wanted On Voyage (B270), which blends rye whiskey, rambutaninfused cider, tawny port, longan syrup, and a drop of absinthe to provide one sunset-loving buzz. What sets this Supanniga apart though, besides the view, is its teaming up with noted local cafe gurus Roots Coffee and creating an extensive Thai desserts menu to go with the coffee, as the venue serves as an afternoon café as well as being an all-day dining establishment. You can opt for the popular street food-favourite Kanom Krok (B150), a selection of sweet cakes, or the deep blue butterfly pea custard (B150) served with steamed bread. Accompany your chosen dessert with a cappuccino or flat white (B120 each), or perhaps something more adventuresome, such as the Hanuman Cold Brew (B140), where cold brew

gets infused with dehydrated jackfruit and an oolong and chrysanthemum tea blend. It’s a Roots creation that is totally unique and found only at this location. It can’t possibly get any better than this—authentic Thai food, creative drinks, and the Chao Phraya as your romantic Ground Zero—but, then again, if you really want to get “on the water”, Supanniga also runs an intimate river dinner cruise, complete with champagne, and all of its signature dishes. The small 40-seat boat will even pick you up right at the pier in front of the restaurant.

Supanniga X Roots

Riva Arun Riverfront 392/25-26 Maharaj Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm Tel. 02 714 7608 www.supannigaeatingroom.com NOV EM BER 2017 | 29

CITY PULSE | on the block

Sundowners by the River Raising a glass to some of Bangkok’s best waterfront watering holes

Above Riva

By Jim Algie

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n his crime novel, Breathing Water, the highly regarded author Timothy Hallinan mentions how his travelscribing, crime-sleuthing protagonist’s favourite time of day in Bangkok is dusk, because the light changes four or five times over just a few hours. It’s an eye-opening observation. And if you want to test the veracity of that claim then find yourself a spot by the Chao Phraya River to drink in the sunset while you sip a sundowner. One of the most magical spots is The Deck at Arun Residence, a boutique hotel tucked away in a little soi near Wat Pho (aka: The Temple of the Reclining Buddha). Its restaurant and bar is endowed with four different vantage points, spread over a like number of stories, to watch the day morph into the night as the sun melts into the horizon. The hotel is situated right across the river from Wat Arun (aka: The Temple of Dawn), with the four ceramicencrusted towers of this centuries-old temple providing a picturesque backdrop for photo ops aplenty. As the rainy season fizzles out this month you can be sure that there will still be a few electrical storms to show that the clouds have phosphorescent linings. 30 | NOV EM BER 2017

Apart from a decent selection of beer, cocktails and spirits, the best deal going is the free flow wine buffet, where you can down your fill of vino for three hours between 5pm and 10pm for B699, while nibbling on some bite-sized munchies like prawn spring rolls. Another boutique property with a spellbinding vista of the Temple of Dawn is Riva Arun. The Thai family behind this property have a long affiliation with water transport, beginning with a small ferry business that blossomed into the Chao Phraya River Express. Head up to the terrace at the Above Riva restaurant and bar, which specializes in local takes on international dishes, and boasts a huge number of signature cocktails that meld Asian ingredients with Western liquors—which translates into mojitos with mango or lychee and a Tom Yam Martini that adds chili and lemon grass to the mix. The list of spirits, including Canadian Club Whiskey and Sierra Gold Tequila, is well suited to the more macho boozer and will put hair on your liver. What’s more, the 25-room hotel has been designed with minimalist flair that spills over into the sleek design of the Above Riva, making for an ambience that perfectly complements the riverine views and liquor. The Deck and Above Riva are both situated along the mid-section of Bangkok’s portion of this undulating waterway, so they’re both good starting points to launch your own little booze cruise (using local river transport). From these points you can head south towards the opulent hotels or north towards some of the more economical bars and restaurants. bangkok101.com

on the block | CITY PULSE

Riverside Terrace

speedy vantage points you can have a gander at some of the river’s backwaters—like the old markets and canals branching out from the Thonburi side—as well as a front row seat to some of the city’s grandest temples, simply by heading north past Wat Arun and the Memorial Bridge to the district of Banglamphu. One of the most renowned riverside restaurants and sunset spots is the Babble and Rum Bar in the quaint boutique hotel of Riva Surya (the sister hotel of the aforementioned Riva Arun). Happy hour is truly joyous here, with a 2-for-1 special on wine, beer, and cocktails. And for those expats in search of a taste of home there are some Western comfort foods on the menu, like pizza and smoked salmon salad. From the outdoor terrace you can catch a glimpse of one of the river’s most cinematic sights at night—the Rama VIII Bridge, with its suspension framework and Thai-style pinnacle shining like a lighthouse. By nightfall you can really appreciate the river’s nocturnal life, with ferries pottering back and forth between the opposite banks while the dinner cruise boats add neon flashes of Vegas-like razzmatazz to the scene.

ROYAL RIVER HOTEL

The Deck

Attitude Of the upscale venues, the most option-laden choice is the Riverside Terrace at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, where a sundowner could be the prelude to the BBQ Buffet that starts at 6.30pm, before you move on to the famously classy—and recently remodelled—Bamboo Bar, where live jazz is the musical order of the night. Another swank riverview locale is Attitude, located on the 26th floor of the Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel. Situated quite far downriver (by the Rama III Bridge) the eye-popping views from here are unlike any others in the city—taking in the Asiatique waterfront shopping centre and Bangkok’s glittering skyline in the distance. And despite the name, there’s no “attitude” at this supremely chic but always cheerful rooftop venue. Thanks to the river taxi, which runs until around 7pm, getting up and down the river is a breeze. From these bangkok101.com

For a Thai-flavoured sundowner, this old relic of a hotel stands tall. Situated near the Krung Thon Bridge beside a main pier for the Chao Phraya River Express, the outdoor restaurant at the Royal River Hotel is not on the sunset side, but the view is unimpeded by any condos or office towers. When the Thai customers outnumber the foreigners you know you’re in an authentic local foodie enclave—no watered-down tourist fare here—with plenty of seafood favourites like the steamed sea bass to add a little spice and ballast to your drinking time. Beer is the anchor of the drinks list, with B150 pints of Singha and Tiger draft during Happy Hour. To wash away the stress of the workday, and the sweat of the commute, there’s nothing quite like sinking a few brews by the river. And if you’re not too tanked to notice, pay heed to what Timothy Hallinan wrote in Breathing Water about the shape-shifting clouds and living colours of Bangkok’s dusky skyline.

NOV EM BER 2017 | 31

CITY PULSE | out & about

Khlongside Conviviality Yes, Bangkok has horrendous traffic jams, but there is an alternative— travelling by boat along the city’s numerous canals By Robin Westley Martin

32 | NOV EM BER 2017

Colourful long-tail boat on the Chao Phraya River You can then continue to float your way through the busy city, passing through Wattana and Huai Khwang districts—parallel to Petchburi Road—before heading to Ramkhamhaeng, laughing to yourself at the thought of everyone stuck in gridlocks on the streets above you. Make sure to stop off at the piers of some temples on this leg of the journey. A few good ones to look out for are Wat Mai Chong Lom, Wat Thepleela, or Wat Sriboonreung, near the National Institute of Development Administration (NIDA) at the end of the line. The Khlong Saen Saep boat service has been in operation since 1990, and 100 boats of 40-50 seats each ply the waterway every 20 minutes, from 5:30am to 8pm (7pm on weekends). The fares—collected from the passengers by the conductors walking cat-like around the edges of the speeding boat—are about 10 to 20 baht, depending on distance travelled. Your fellow passengers will be vendors on their way to work the streets, suited bangkok101.com

Photo by Marc Schultz/Black Star Publishing

T

he old capital of Thailand, in the 18th century, was Ayutthaya. Unfortunately, it was invaded by the Burmese in 1767 and left in ruins. Soon after, in 1768, Thonburi—on the other side of the Chao Phraya River from modern-day Bangkok—was named as the Thai capital by King Taksin the Great, the ruler of Siam at the time. It remained the capital until 1782, when a coup was mounted against Taksin by Phutthayotfa Chulalok (who later became King Rama I). This new ruler decided to move his palace over to the other side of the river, and Bangkok became the new capital in 1782. Present day Bangkok (which incorporates Thonburi, among other outlying districts) has grown into a megacity of 10 to 12 million that’s bisected by one of the longest rivers in Thailand—the aforementioned Chao Phraya—which is approximately 370 km long and empties into the Gulf of Thailand. Although it doesn’t really compare with the giant waterways of Asia such as the Yangtze or the Mekong, it has been the lifeblood of Bangkok since the founding of the city, and is known locally as ‘The River of Kings’. The first khlongs (canals) in Bangkok were built in the Rattanakosin district in the late 18th century, and over the next 120 years or so, until the dawn of the 20th century, so many canals were built in Bangkok that visiting foreigners named it as ‘The Venice of the East’. The khlongs were used for transportation of goods and people, and also for irrigation of the rice paddies in the central region—Thailand’s ‘rice bowl’. After 1900, fewer and fewer canals were built, as roads became the priority for a rapidly expanding Bangkok. Some of the canals started to be filled in, or built over. But Bangkok still retains loads of canals to explore. On the busy central business district (CBD) Eastern side of the river lies a very important—although somewhat smelly—canal for people who live and work in the city. This is Khlong Saen Saep, which stretches for 18 km through some of the most built-up parts of Bangkok. It is dotted with piers every kilometre or less, and you can pick up a water bus which will take you quickly through the city’s traffic congestion. There are some great sights and places to visit along the route, from the Democracy Monument and Golden Mount landmarks close to the Chao Phraya, where you start your trip, to the Jim Thompson House near Siam Square, or the Pratunam market and shopping area. Pratunam, incidentally, is where you have to change boats to extend your journey along this particular canal.

Photo by Bruce Scott

out & about | CITY PULSE

Speeding along the Khlong Saen Saep businessmen, children on their way to school, monks in their orange robes, and the occasional adventurous tourist. Passing by the wooden houses built on stilts, hiding between golden-roofed temples and high-rise condos, office blocks, or shopping malls shows visitors another side of the city—without having to suffer Bangkok’s infamous traffic jams. Entire communities live alongside the khlongs, with many of the families having occupied the same wooden house for several generations. Disembarking at the Nana Nua Pier, between Sukhumvit Sois 1 and 3, I met Khun Lek and her husband Somsak, both of whom have been residents within this close-knit community for more than 40 years. “I raised my son and daughters in this house, but now they’re all gone. They want to live in a more up-to-date place, somewhere with modern conveniences, and with a Wi-Fi connection,” explains Khun Lek. The residents of this community are self-effacing and polite, and although so obviously poor—albeit with nice TVs in some homes— several people sitting on rickety porches outside their home beckoned me inside to sit and eat with them. They may not have much, but what they have they are willing to share with a stranger. Some of the enterprising people in this little community have bought hand-carts which they wheel down to the street to sell delicious noodle dishes to the staff and visitors of the nearby Bumrungrad Hospital, one of the city’s most expensive private health care facilities. I struck up a conversation with one of the doctors on his lunch break, and he told me that he bangkok101.com

prefers the authentic food they serve from these carts to the bland offerings of McDonald’s or KFC (both have branches within the hospital complex). The doctor also surprised me by letting me in on a secret; most of the highly-trained and well-paid doctors that work in Thailand’s private sector donate one or two days of their week to work in the government hospitals, that give free treatment to those in need. I also discovered that when Bumrungrad Hospital was being constructed, many people in the surrounding community were worried that the khlong they lived alongside would be polluted by waste from the hospital, and that their health might suffer. But the hospital built its own waste treatment plant and now the waters of the canal near the hospital are even cleaner than they were before. A good example of how rich and poor—or the old and the new—are able to live together in harmony, with benefits to both. The exploration of the waterways of Bangkok is not complete, however, without moving over to the Thonburi side on the Western bank. A trip on a reua hang yao (longtailed boat) will power you through mazes of canals quite different to those on the Eastern side. And they smell more pleasant too! From the Taksin Bridge (Saphan Taksin BTS stop), jump on an express boat going up the Chao Phraya to Tha Chang Pier (N9). Along the way you’ll pass the Santa Cruz Church, built by the Portuguese community in 1770. It sits amongst old houses on the river banks and newer buildings further inland, and the reddish dome of this old Catholic church is a classic river landmark. At Tha Chang you’ll see several stalls set up offering Bangkok Noi (Little Bangkok) canal tours, and they are a great way to find out about khlongside conviviality. Hiring a long-tailed boat for a couple of hours should cost about B1,000 per hour, and five or six people can easily fit. Once you enter Bangkok Noi and its surroundings it will not be long before you see a fisherman hauling in his fishing nets. Meanwhile, the wooden teak houses you’ll pass on the banks of these khlongs are some of the oldest in Bangkok. As you motor along you’ll see other long-tail boats moored on the banks of the canal, piled high with fruit, vegetables, and sweets for sale, and some even cooking hot food in a charcoal-fired clay brazier. The canalside dwellers here have everything brought to them on their doorstep—including their mail—and they rarely even need to make a trip to the market. After only 20 or 30 minutes of travelling along Bangkok Noi and its offshoots, the hectic city has been left behind. Instead you find yourself amongst orchards with reed and lily-covered wharves, and kids jumping into the water, happily splashing about. There are also many small to medium-size temples, most with their own piers, and you really should ask your driver to stop, and take a few of them in (Wat Sisudaram, Wat Nairong, and Wat Phawana Phirataram are recommended). They’re not at all touristy, and you will have some great photos to show for your efforts. Here one really gets a sense of what life must have been like in Bangkok 50 plus years ago. And for some, it’s a life that still continues to this day. NOV EM BER 2017 | 33

CITY PULSE | map of riverside

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RESTAURANTS & BARS Ph 1 Baan Khanithae tchaburi Rd 2 Supanniga X Roots 3 Trader Vic’s 4 Riverside Grill 5 Thiptara RAMA I Rd 6 Silver Waves SHOPPING 1 Asiatique 2 The Jam Factory 3 River City Bangkok

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HOTELS 1 The Siam 5 Shangri-La Hotel, 2 Avani Riverside Bangkok Bangkok Hotel 6 Raweekanlaya 3 Anantara Riverside Bangkok Bangkok Resort 7 Royal River Hotel 4 Millenium Hilton Bangkok

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BRIDGES 1 Krung Thon Bridge 2 Rama VIII Bridge 3 Phra Pin-Klao Bridge 4 King Rama I Memorial Bridge RAM AV

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CHAO PHRAYA RIVER GUIDE

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Mango Tree The Deck Above Riva Riverside Terrace Babble & Rum Bar

4 Yodpiman River Walk 5 Tha Maharaj Mall 6 Icon Siam

LANDMARKS RAM A IV 1 Grand Palace 8 Immaculate Rd 2 Wat Arun Conception Church 3 Wat Pho 9 Wat Rachathiwat 10 Phra Sumen Fort 4 Dusit Zoo 11 Khao San Road 5 Wat Kalayanamit 12 Chee Chin Khor 6 Wat Prayoon 7 St. Francis Xavier Temple d R m Silo 13 Lhong 1919 Church

ROYAL nBARGE PROCESSION Rd r

Satho

The Chao Phraya River is also known as the ‘River of Kings’, and at no time of the year is that term more applicable than during the Royal Barge Procession, a ceremony of both religious and royal significance which has been taking place for nearly 700 years. The event does not take place every year however, and in fact the last one was held in November 2012 (no scheduled date has been set for the next one). The Chan R procession consists of 51 historical barges and one d Royal Barge, the Narai Song Suban, which was built in 1994. The barges are manned by 2,082 oarsmen, and they alight from the Wasukri Royal Landing Place in Khet Dusit, make their way past the Grand Palace and Wat Po, and stop at Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn). bangkok101.com

CREATE A WEDDING THAT DREAMS ARE MADE OF... JOIN THE WEDDING FAIR AT BANGKOK MARRIOTT MARQUIS QUEEN'S PARK AND LET US HELP YOU PLAN YOUR PERFECT DAY! The first couple to sign up will also enjoy a free stay in our luxurious 750 sqm. Sky Suite with private sky terrace. This means that our entire 37 th floor will be your exclusive private penthouse!

Time: 10.00 - 20.00 hrs. Date: Saturday 4 th and Sunday 5th November, 2017

Venue: Thai Chitlada Grand Ballroom, 2nd Floor, Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen's Park

We will continue sharing our love for couples that missed our wedding fair, and kindly confirm with us from 6 th to 30 th November! For weddings over THB 300,000:

Free roving cocktail cart with old-style smoked popcorn for 200 people

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BANGKOK MARRIOTT MARQUIS QUEEN'S PARK 199 SUKHUMVIT SOI 22, SUKHUMVIT RD., KLONGTON, KLONGTOEY, BANGKOK 10110 T: +66 (0) 2 059 5555 E: BOOKBKKMARQUIS®MARRIOTT.COM WWW.BANGKOKMARRIOTTMARQUIS.COM

MARRIOT T IMARQU ISi BANGKOK QUEEN'S PARK

Prepare to be pampered at the Siam Kempinski Spa

| LIVING IN STYLE

LIVING IN STYLE blissful spa packages To celebrate the 7th anniversary of the SIAM KEMPINSKI HOTEL BANGKOK (Rama 1 Rd), KEMPINSKI THE SPA has unveiled two new treatment packages. The ‘Absolute Serene’ anniversary package is tailored for guests that enjoy spa treatments on a regular basis. It’s priced at B77,777++ and includes annual membership (worth B50,000++), plus credits for spa treatments valued at an amazing B65,000! Meanwhile, the ‘Tranquillity Bliss’ package is suited for guests seeking peace, tranquillity, and an opportunity to unwind. This package is also priced at B7,777++, and includes a one-hour Autumn Sleep Relaxing massage, followed by a one-hour European Classic facial treatment. The packages are available for purchase until December 15th, 2017. www.kempinski.com/bangkok

be fab not drab You don’t have to walk far in Bangkok to find a salon or spa, but the really good ones are few and far between. However, on the 2nd floor of BANDARA RESIDENCE (Sala Daeng Soi 1), the recently opened LAVISH SALON AND SPA boasts a team of well-coiffed hair stylists offering cuts (from B700), perms (starting at B5,000), and special scalp detox treatments (B2,500) to put some flair back into your hair. The spa too offers an array of reasonably-priced massages and scrubs, such as the signature Indian Head Massage with warm coconut oil (B990), or the two-hour Aromatherapy Warm Oil Massage and Herbal Steam (B2,300). Open daily from 9am to 10pm. www.facebook.com/lavishsalonspa.bk

the new kid on charoenkrung Only a five-minute walk from the new TCDC, on Chareonkrung Soi 30, WAREHOUSE 30 is Bangkok’s latest ambitious art and design complex by star architect DUANGRIT BUNNAG (the man behind Jam Factory), and ex-editor of Elle Décor RUNGSIMA KASIKRANUND. What was once a 4,000 sq.m space of abandoned World War 2-era warehouses, has now been transformed by the duo into a web of stores, restaurants, art spaces, and other creative endeavours, including a theatre space, indoor market zone, and even a health and fitness zone. The complex is open Monday to Friday from 11am to 8pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 9pm. www.facebook.com/thewarehouse30

forget five-a-day Get your daily dose of vitamins—and a whole lot more—with a VITAMIN COCKTAIL from CHIROHEALTH (2F, The Nine Tower, Rama 9 Soi 3). This “bone and joint and regenerative centre” also offers Asia’s first vitamin lounge, where a team of specialists inject vitamins straight into your bloodstream, promising to give you glowing bright skin or even cure a hangover. Normally, when we eat our five-a-day, the vitamins are broken down by the digestive system before they can be absorbed by the body. However, this cocktail is administered through an IV drip and goes straight to where your body needs it. The centre is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 9am to 8pm, and 30-minute treatments start at B2,400. www.chirohealthbangkok.com bangkok101.com

NOV EM BER 2017 | 37

LIVING IN STYLE | property profile

Riverside Residences on the Rise

Bangkok will be the site of the first Four Seasons Private Residence Waterfront Development in Asia

T

he Thailand-based international real estate developer Country Group Development PCL (CGD) and Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts recently revealed the masterplans for their Chao Phraya Estate, a riverside development featuring three individual properties—the Four Seasons Private Residences, as well as two ultra-luxury hotels (one of which will be a Four Seasons Hotel, and the other a Capella Hotel). The 32 billion baht project, which includes a remarkable 350 metres of river frontage, is one of the largest waterfront plots of land in Bangkok’s CBD area. The expected completion date is estimated to be in Q4 2018. “The aim was to create a meaningful, luxury waterfront residential lifestyle that is unmatched in Asia and epitomizes the legendary customized design, style, and service that discerning guests from around the world have come to expect from Four Seasons,” explained Ben Taechaubol (facing page), Director and CEO of Country Group Development PCL. “Each and every aspect of Four Seasons Private Residences Bangkok has been designed to bring to life our vision of meaningful luxury, offering our discerning buyers and investors the chance to own and enjoy a piece of Bangkok’s future history. We envisage Chao Phraya Estate will become one of Bangkok’s most exclusive addresses—an iconic property that maximizes the best of waterfront living as a legacy to future generations.” The 73-storey residences building features a one-of-a-kind geometric design, offering buyers all corner units with unobstructed panoramic views of both river and city skyline. The

38 | NOV EM BER 2017

overall look was conceptualized by internationally acclaimed masterplan and design consultants Hamiltons International, and interior design firm BAMO. The 355 residences will feature a mix of floor plans, starting from 115 sq.m for a 2-bedroom residence, and 1,050 sq.m for a penthouse. In addition to ample living spaces and modern amenities the Four

Seasons Private Residences Bangkok at Chao Phraya River offer world-class amenities, including a private lounge and waterfront entrance created exclusively for the residents. There’s also an Amenities Deck which features a river facing infinity pool, a dedicated children’s pool, private cabanas, state-of-the-art fitness centres, yoga and pilates studios, as well as bangkok101.com

property profile | LIVING IN STYLE

a multipurpose function room with kitchen/BBQ area and entertaining spaces. Higher up, on levels 64 to 66, the rooftop Four Seasons Club triplex offers around 1,300 sq.m of exclusive club facilities, including: a glass walled wine room to store prized vintages; a golf simulator and billiards table to engage in friendly competition; a private room for cigar aficionados; a private screening room; and Bangkok’s tallest residential infinity pool overlooking the magnificent skyline. As for the hotels that share the overall property, the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River will be a 312-room, low-rise, urban resort, sprawling over nine acres (across the southern span of Chao bangkok101.com

Phraya Estate). Set on one of the largest land areas directly allocated to one hotel, with an unprecedented 200 metres of river frontage, it is poised to become a truly unique urban resort arranged in a series of cascading green courtyards and lush landscapes. The hotel will also offer state-of-the-art meeting and function spaces—including the largest riverfront Grand Ballroom in Bangkok—as well as a myriad of world-class entertainment offerings including restaurants and bars. “With a shared vision and commitment to excellence we are thrilled to be working with Country Group Development to introduce Bangkok to a new standard of

luxury,” remarked Michael Crawford, President, Asia Pacific, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts. “This hotel and residential development located on the banks of the Chao Phraya River will exemplify our ongoing commitment to innovation and to redefining luxury in order to meet the evolving needs of our discerning guests.” Equally luxurious, the Capella Hotel Bangkok will consist of 101 guest rooms and river villas (the first such villas in Bangkok), all offering exceptional views. Other highlights include a riverfront ballroom complete with specialty function room, and an internationally award-winning Auriga Spa. For further information, you can visit: www.chaophrayaestate.com. NOV EM BER 2017 | 39

LIVING IN STYLE | property profile

Premium Property Perks 18 of Bangkok’s best eateries gather under one roof exclusively for Raimon Land’s 185 Rajadamri residents

O

n Saturday, October 7th 2017, Raimon Land—one of Thailand’s leading real estate developers—gathered 18 of Bangkok’s best restaurants at the 185 Rajadamri Condominium for ‘An Evening of Gastronomic Indulgence’, to simply say “Thank You” to its residents. With a focus on providing the finest quality of life and luxurious living environments for its residents, the night presented decadent nibbles, a constant flow of bubbly, as well as a private performance by one of Thailand’s most loved singers; a very indulgent evening indeed. The event was held on the 7th floor, alongside the swimming pool overlooking the prestigious Rajadamri neighbourhood. Each restaurant represented had a pop-up table where they whipped up bite size servings of some of their signature dishes. Among the restaurants on hand were: Gaggan; Gaa; 80/20; La Scala; Zuma; Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen; Nan Charcoal Grill; Le Du; Baan; 4 0 | NOV EM BER 2017

Bunker; Eat Me; Kyo Roll En; La Bottega di Luca; and Il Fumo. Freshly shucked oysters were supplied by The Oyster Bar, while Caviar House was on hand with a range of premium caviar. A lavish spread of cheese and charcuterie from Theodore was served alongside artisanal bread from Ámantee Bakery. Meanwhile, S.Pellegrino supplied a steady flow of sparkling water, while wine and champagne was looked after by Wine Gallery, and Vesper was on hand to whip up some of their signature gin-based cocktails. Entertainment was provided by Thai actress and singer Pimdao ‘Mutmee’ Panichsamai, with an intimate performance of songs composed by the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej. “We choose the best for our customers in every way, providing high quality products, a good living environment, and neighbours”, said Mr. Adrian Lee, Chief Executive Officer of Raimon Land.

Mr. Adrian Lee 185 Rajadamri is Bangkok’s only freehold luxury residence in the Rajadamri neighbourhood. Featuring stunning views of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club and Lumphini Park, each homeowner is part of an exclusive community and part of a rich heritage. by Kelly Harvey www.raimonland.com/en bangkok101.com

Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach

Dream Wedding Destination And their wedding dreams came true…

The Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach recently hosted “Dream Wedding” ceremonies for two couples, and one engagement ceremony for lucky couples who won the resort’s recent Facebook contest. The winning couples proudly exchanged their rings and vows, accompanied by their families and friends on the evening of September 24th, 2017. Starting with the weddings of Suwimon & Eam and Been & Newz, and followed by the engagement of Waew & Sven, this beautiful occasion marked the very first time the resort had arranged three wedding events in the same evening. Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach was recently named as “Thailand’s Best Wedding Venue” and “Asia’s Best Wedding Venue” at the Asia Property Awards 2017-2018. These awards are testament to the quality of weddings offered by the resort, as well as the property’s exquisite design and the consistently high standards achieved since the resort opened last year.

PHUKET MARRIOTT RESORT AND SPA, NAI YANG BEACH 92 92/1, Moo 3, Sakoo, Talang, Phuket 83110, Thailand T: 076 625 555 | E: booknaiyangbeach@marriott.com

www.phuketmarriottnaiyang.com

SNAPSHOTS | insight

Top: Wat Arun at sunset. Above: The Grand Palace 42 | NOV EM BER 2017

bangkok101.com

insight | SNAPSHOTS

B

On Bangkok

angkok, or Krung Thep as Thais call it these days, has grown from a swampy settlement on the Chao Phraya River to a buzzling Asian metropolis. How has this city transformed from its humble beginnings to a force majeure in the region? Within its perimeters, past, present, and future collide and make this place unforgettable in both physical and spiritual planes. After the demise of Ayutthaya, King Taksin gathered his troops, won many battles, gained back Siam’s sovereignty, and settled in Thonburi—as the Thai capital—for 15 years. In 1782 King Rama I then founded Bangkok, across the river from Thonburi, because of its better strategic location. Modelled after Ayutthaya, the Grand Palace and its glittering spires became the centre point, while the river and canals wrapped around this new capital as moats. In Thai, “bang” means a village situated on a waterway. Hence, the

Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com

rest of Bangkok’s name possibly derives from either the word “koh” meaning an island or “makok” meaning wild plums (that used to grow in the area). Once a customs outpost and mooring spot for ships, it was compared to Amsterdam and Venice. As a province, its old name was Phra Nakorn—or Thai for Angkor—meaning a grand city. Now, akin to Los Angeles, it has become the “City of Angels” with its new official name, Krung Thep. During the height of King Rama III’s reign, trading with foreign countries prospered. His Majesty completed the construction of the big prang of Wat Arun, or “the Temple of Dawn”, one of Bangkok’s historical landmarks, after his father King Rama II’s initiation. However, it’s on the old capital side, like Bangkok’ rive gauche. Not until 1971 did Thonburi and Bangkok merge into one province. Other Thai cities, such as Chiang Mai and Korat, cannot even compare to the size of Bangkok’s population. Over the last two centuries this city has metamorphosed into an extraordinary place. During the era of colonization in Southeast Asia, foreign powers began closing in on Siam. Kings Rama IV and V controlled the country’s fate and changed the faces of Bangkok’s buildings. Palaces, temples, mansions, and even shophouses during that period were influenced by the European architectural styles. In the 19th Century the next wave of Chinese émigrés arrived and worked their ways from rags to riches. These first generations led to Sino-Thai family dynasties which are now the captains of the country’s industries, businesses, and finance. But many of their humble abodes in Chinatown and the neighbouring districts were destroyed in the name of progress. Fortunately, some of these shophouses and warehouses have been restored and repurposed for 21st Century hipsters. Fascinatingly, Bangkok’s metropolitan seal is Indra, the Hindu God of the Sky with a green body, on Airavata or Erawan, a mythical white elephant. The emblem appears all

in green. Its colour was conceivably inspired by the Emerald Buddha image, made from jade, which is one of Thailand’s most sacred Buddha images. It also contributes the name of this era—Rattanakosin, meaning the “jewel of Indra”. However, the real estate boom has led to condominiums and shopping malls mushrooming all over the city, causing Bangkok to lose its green space. Lumphini Park, established by King Rama VI, is merely the small green heart. With King Rama IX’s projects, Bangkok has kept its green lungs in Bang Krachao, the largest urban zone without any tall buildings and skyscrapers. But without respectable city planning and birth control policies for condominiums and other developments, this space may also be invaded in the future. Bangkok may not perfectly represent Thailand but it is now the centre of everything—government, economy, commerce, education, religion, transportation, art and culture, etc. Hence, during the week there may be over 10 million people traversing through Bangkok and its environs, rather than the 7 million inhabitants in Bangkok proper. This results in many issues that earn Bangkok many superlatives: the longest traffic jams; the hottest city; the worst air pollution; etc. This would-be megacity is also barely above sea level, so floods are common here. The area was once full of rice fields and fruit orchards, and is more conducive for agriculture than real estate. Why do angels want to live in purgatory? Bangkok’s future may lie under water because it keeps sinking, like Venice. If we are not trying to solve these problems of traffic congestion, pollution, and overpopulation, we are going to be inundated and live in the Netherworld. But if it all goes under water one day, just remember that you’re in the “City of Angels” and angels can fly. Bangkok is the place that many people—including me—call home, whether it is Heaven or Hell. NOV EM BER 2017 | 43

SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand

Trix O’ Treat

Bangkok-based rockabilly rebels are purists who definitely walk the rock

Photos on this page by Jim Algie

By Jim Algie

W

hen I ask Sujittra ‘Tukta’ Likachai, the lead singer of the band Trix O’ Treat, why her birthplace of Nakhon Sri Thammarat in Southern Thailand is referred to as a muang nak leng (“gangster town”), she raises her fist, cracks her knuckles, and bursts out laughing. That’s Tukta for you. She’s the sparkplug in the engine of this revved up rockabilly combo. Since it first made its appearance in the mid-1950s, rockabilly is a genre that has always had a global following

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of fans and bands—from Moscow to Milwaukee, and Indonesia to Italy. But it’s a rare crossbreed in Thailand where Trix O’ Treat are the most prominent exponents. Their set list includes plenty of standards by Chuck Berry and Elvis Presley, instrumentals like “Tequila” and “Hawaii Five-0,” and hits by Michael Jackson and Madonna done rockabilly style. They also include a sprinkling of originals, along with “Stray Cat Strut” and “Rock This Town” by the last group of revivalists to make

a dent in the popular music charts: the Stray Cats back in the 1980s. Formed some eight years ago from the detritus of a punk group, Trix O’ Treat are well aware that their chances of commercial success in the pop-lite Thai market are scant—and they don’t care. “We could get signed but the label wouldn’t know how to sell us,” says Tukta. This is a band of purists that walks and talks the rock. You can see that both on and off stage. Most of Tukta’s body ink was etched by her tattoo artist husband bangkok101.com

bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS Kaittipop ‘Vans’ Makrum, who is also the band’s bassist. Together they run a vintage hair salon called Bangkok Greasers—specializing in the ducktails and pompadours of the early Elvis era—next door to the retro burger and hot dog restaurant called Hotrock that they also started (in the Ratchada Train Night Market). Through listening to her father’s albums of Johnny Cash, Tukta developed a keen ear for early rock ‘n’ roll, which fused country, hillbilly, blues, and gospel into a whole new style that upended the pop charts, upset parents, and outraged conservatives who dubbed it the “devil’s music.” Even in Thailand a military government (circa 1955) banned the hit song and dance craze called “The Twist”, by Chubby Checker, on grounds of indecency. While discovering the keynotes of the genre, Tukta came across the early recordings of Wanda Jackson, who has been hailed as the “first female rock star” and still performs and records today. Listening to Jackson scream, holler, and strut gave Tukta the confidence to realize that she could front a rockabilly band too. More of a crooner than a wailer like her mentor, Tukta still has plenty of front-woman gusto. At one point in

Bizarre

Thailand

Author Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the collection of short stories entitled The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (2014), and Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex, and Black Magic. Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com

the interview, I ask her if she wants to start a family some day, to which she snaps, “I hate kids,” and then burst out laughing again. With one seven-song EP in their back catalogue, Trix O’ Treat is finetuning a number of new originals to release in the not too distant future. For the time being you can catch them every Saturday night at Parking Toys, in Bangkok (starting at 9:30pm), as well as at a number of other special

events—like the recent reopening of the TCDC building, and occasionally at the Ratchada Train Market. In concert, dressed in matching retro outfits, the band is a live wire act and guaranteed good time. At many of their gigs, the grand finale and show-stopper is a raucous rendition of “Woo Hoo” by the Japanese all-female trio known as the 5 6 7 8’s who had a cameo in the Quentin Tarantino film Kill Bill. While Tukta sings and sways, the wild man drummer Suwit hammers down the beat, guitarist Suwat embroiders the melodies with his fluid finger-work, and Vans, in timehonoured rockabilly fashion, climbs atop his double bass to stand there while slapping out those fat grooves that carry a freight train of rock, blues, and hillbilly history rocking and clacking down the tracks along with them. Rock ‘n’ roll will never die, they say, and that’s because musical traditions are reborn and revamped with every new generation. In Thailand, Trix O’ Treat is the living proof that this old saying still rings true.

If you enjoyed this article you’ll definitely want to read Jim Algie’s most recent book, On The Night Joey Ramone Died: Tales of Rock and Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia, and Norway. In addition to two interconnected novellas, there will be a 25,000-word music journalism section added to the new paperback version of the book, which is due out later this year. The current ebook is still available from Amazon for US$2.99.

NOV EM BER 2017 | 45

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Cinema Comes to Silom Indie films find a home at the Bangkok Screening Room By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

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lthough I’d heard about Bangkok Screening Room, a new Silom venue for arthouse and independent films, when it opened just over a year ago, my first viewing experience came in June of this year, when Coconuts TV hosted the premiere of Highland: Thailand’s Marijuana Awakening. Nearly every spot in the 52seat cinema was taken, with most of the audience staying on for an entertaining post-screening Q&A with director William Mitchell, series host Sebastian Perry, and Coconuts Bangkok editor Laurel Tuohy. During the after-party in the screening room lounge, I chatted briefly with Sarinya Manamuti, one of the founders of Bangkok Screening Room, and made an appointment for a longer interview with her and business partner Nicholas HudsonEllis. My original presumption that

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BKKSCR would be a shoestringbudget operation run by passionate amateur cinephiles or wanna-be film artists turned out to be very wrong. Sarinya holds a BA in Visual Arts from UWS Sydney and an MA in Arts Management from RMIT Melbourne, while Nicholas has run membership programmes at the Australian Centre for the Moving Image, and managed ticketing and customer service at The Australian Ballet. He also has a master’s degrees in Visual Arts from The University of Sydney and Business Administration from RMIT Melbourne. Not exactly amateurs. The pair came up with the idea of a permanent screening room after successfully organizing the four-day ‘Open Reel Rooftop Film Festival’ at HOF Art Gallery in Bangkok’s W District in 2014. “During the festival we screened a curated selection of international

classics, short films, local video art, and independent films from emerging Thai directors,” says Nicholas. “Three of the four days sold out. That told us there were lots of people in Bangkok who liked the communal experience of watching a movie with others, but weren’t so interested in the bigbudget films shown in mainstream cinemas. So we started to think about how we could replicate that success in a sustainable way.” Along with designer friend Wongsarond Suthikulpanich, Sarinya and Nicholas put together a two-year business plan to found a permanent alternative cinema. In the interim, they organized another hit pop-up cinema for Wonderfruit’s 2015 festival. BKKSR found its permanent location in an abandoned building on Sala Daeng Soi 1, where they worked with the owners to accommodate a 52-seat cinema on the second bangkok101.com

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS floor. Open for just over a year now, the screening room has been doing very well. The film schedule changes monthly with a roster of four to five films, each of them screened 12 to 15 times over rotating time slots from late afternoon to late night. The films stay on the schedule the entire month, regardless of ticket sales, a boon to viewers who need to plan ahead. The screening room offers access to both local and international audiences that exists at no other film venue in Bangkok. All English-language films are subtitled in Thai in order to reach out to the Thai audience. Likewise, if a Thai film selected for screening isn’t already subtitled in English, BKKSR will create English subs. And for films in other languages, both English and Thai subs are provided. Sometimes the staff create the subs themselves, and other times they receive assistance from students at local university language programmes. “Any independent director can submit films to be screened here,” says Nicholas. “But one of our requirements is that it must be subtitled in English and/or Thai, depending on the original language soundtrack.” Whether for new films, classics, or indie one-offs, BKKSR offers an even 50 percent split to producers, with the screening room covering all marketing costs. The policy applies to super-low-

Joe’s Bangkok

6IXTYNIN9

Blow Up

budget films that never get standard theatrical release as well, a great deal for the filmmaker as it offers no-risk exposure. Along with a mix of classic and new international films, at least one Thai film appears in each monthly programme, usually classic Thai productions like Santi-Vina (Khru Marut, 1954) and 6IXTYNIN9 (Pen-Ek Ratanaruang, 2000) rather than modern Thai pop cinema. The week I interviewed Sarinya and Nicholas, one of my favourite all-time films, Blow Up (Michelangelo Antonioni, 1966) happened to be on the schedule. When I attend an afternoon screening, I’m impressed with the beautifully pro-rez file they acquired, not to mention the cinema’s well-tuned 5:1 surround-sound audio, which added to the impact of the legendary underground pub scene where The Yardbirds blast through “Stroll On” live. Other international classics screened recently include Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Dr. Strangelove or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb, and Lawrence of Arabia.

Aside from the regular repertory, BKKSR collaborates with external organizations to host special film events. Along with the Highlands premiere for Coconuts TV, they’ve hosted a three-day migration film fest for the UN and more recently a three-day Irish Film Festival sponsored by the local Irish embassy. To supplement revenue from ticket sales, a nicely designed bistro in the screening room lobby serves espresso drinks, sandwiches, bar snacks, popcorn, wine, beer, and cocktails. Drinks are welcome in the screening room. The bistro stays open till midnight, so many patrons stay after the screenings for a bite to eat or a nightcap. BKKSR’s presence has attracted other creative businesses to what has become known as the Woof Pack Building, including an artisanal ice cream parlour, Japanese men’s fashion boutique, and gallery/multiperformance space—all of which means more reason to linger before or after a film. For detailed info on upcoming screenings, visit www.bkksr.com.

UPCOMING NOVEMBER SCREENINGS Nov. 3-19: Check out Blade Runner: The Final Cut, which is director Ridley Scott’s edit of his original 1982 science fiction and noir detective fantasy. Nov. 1-26: Don’t miss To Stay Alive: A Method, a documentary film in which rock legend Iggy Pop reads and recites Michel Houellebecq's manifesto. Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

Nov. 2-28: Make time for Black Code, a gripping account of how governments control and manipulate the internet in order to censor and monitor their citizens. Nov. 1-26: Catch Fun Bar Karaoke, a Thai film in which Pu, a misfit young woman, is told by a fortune-teller that her father will die when the house she is building is completed.

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SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Songs For Life

The soundtrack to 1970s rebellion, Thai folk-blues keeps relevant – Part 2

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ou can instantly spot fans of pleng peua cheewit (Songs For Life). Part of the left-leaning Art For Life movement, this 1970s-style blues-country-rock remains the soundtrack of disaffected middle-aged Thais with a penchant for radical chic. Growing old grungily, these anti-dictatorship veterans sport wispy beards, straggly long hair, and rumpled khaki fatigues. Yet the sacrifice of which they sing was for real. Hence their respect among a general public who’d otherwise consider their behaviour déclassé. The enduring giant of Songs For Life has been Aed Carabao. He rode the 1980s shift from niche appeal to lead one of the most successful rock groups in world history. Ad, named after his band Carabao (‘buffalo’ in the Philippines, where the band formed in refuge in 1976), resembles an Asian Willie Nelson. He dons a bandanna emblazoned with the buffalo-skull logo that brands his own lines of clothing, pubs and energy drink. “But for the language disconnect, he’d be an international superstar,” says music executive Tim Carr. “The most prolific, prodigious and, possibly, profligate musician/artist/personality in Thailand... Aed channels not only Nelson and Santana, but Dylan, Springsteen and 1,000 years of Thai folk.” Aed injects Thai music with a wit, edge and cries against corruption, ecocide, and injustices like Burma’s treatment of the (ethnically Tai) Shan. His 1984 anthem “Made in Thailand” railed against consumer imports. Other album titles speak for themselves: “Old Bottle Collector”, “Greedy Americans”, “Serving Bananas”, “No Buffalo Parking”, “Chang Beer Girl”. The nationalism grew on albums like Nation Builders and Thailand United, and most stridently in Aed’s adverts for his energy drink and for Thai tourism, and his anti-Burma anthem for the 2000 movie Bangrajan. He also hollered choruses against piracy of Thai music and assailed the bar raids under the Social Order Campaign by Thaksin Shinawatra’s first Interior Minister, Purachai Piemsomboon, in “Purachai Curfew”.

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 4 8 | NOV EM BER 2017

Aed illustrates the democracy movement’s split between progressives and nationalists. The 1973 demos started out opposing the industrialization by Japanese firms invited by Thai military dictators. Some protestors opposed capitalism due to leftist politics, others because it threatened Thai exceptionalism. The democratic cause bound them through the 1991 coup, 1992 massacre of protestors, and the 1997 ‘People’s Constitution’. The leftist Lifers tended to support Thaksinite Red Shirts as a capitalist precursor to socialism, while nationalist antiglobalization Lifers joined royalists and NGOs as Yellows, and in 2013-14 the ‘Bangkok Shutdown’ protests, to oust his populist governments. Before the split, Thailand seemed to have a liberal constitution, so battles centred on poverty, the environment and public consultation. A good-natured spirit and impudent humour has always infused Thai protest culture. Some grow dreadlocks and enact demo art with surprising freedom, since the authorities daren’t go too far in muzzling the October martyrs and their successors. At many demonstrations and gallery openings the braver activists insult bigwigs with a lewdness the media would be scared to convey. Chulalongkorn University censored an exhibition by Vasan Sitthiket, so he invited everyone at the opening to hang effigies of the cabinet. They got away with it. Art For Life continues to stimulate the culture, though musical references have shifted from quotes of theories by Karl Marx to covers of ballads by Richard Marx. The non-politicized youth of today don’t listen to rock riffs of revolution, but newer favoured genres like hip-hop and thrash metal, do still feed off grievance. With ever-stricter efforts to limit self-expression, youth culture, and digital innovations that are loosening Thai society, it remains to be seen if music will again be a vehicle of challenge to the authorities’ recurring fetish for discipline. The 1990s Indy generation seemed slightly counter-cultural, but avoided sliding into consumerism, following up Songs For Life with Songs For Lifestyle.

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Historic River

Ironically, controversial riverside redevelopment projects make the public that much more aware of losing the Chao Phraya’s living heritage Words and photos by Luc Citrinot

Phra Sumen Fort

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he Thai government’s project to develop a ‘Riverwalk’ along the Chao Phraya River, with a design similar to a highway, has had at least one positive effect: it woke local communities up and reinforced the idea that there’s a need to preserve their environment—and make the larger public aware of the river's living heritage. This past August a gathering was held, which had the feeling of a typical Thai fair with its little stalls selling food, T-shirts, souvenirs, and pins, while children were painting large frescoes and a band played traditional Thai melodies. The party had, however, a much more serious agenda; namely the protection of communities along the Chao Phraya, who feel now their existence and traditions threatened by

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Immaculate Conception Church

the future Riverwalk Promenade—a 14 km pedestrian friendly path along both sides of the river, linking the Rama VII and Pin-Klao bridges. It's the first phase of a greater riverside redevelopment planned along 57 km of the iconic waterway, stretching from the Rama VII Bridge down to Samut Prakan. “I think that authorities should first think about the well-being of local communities, and consult them before embarking into this huge project,” explained Marisa Sukosol, one of the owners of both The Sukosol and The Siam hotel, and a strong supporter of the river’s preservation. “The Chao Phraya is the heart of Bangkok’s cultural and historical life, with communities being part of it for 200 years and more. The river belongs to all of us—inhabitants of Bangkok

as well as visitors. A priority should be improving the life of the communities by implementing landscaping, restoring the environment, improving the overall cleanliness, and instigating accompany cultural projects rather than launching new large infrastructure.” The gathering that August day became also an opportunity to learn about the lesser known treasures along the river. Most long term residents and visitors to Bangkok know already about the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Arun, and even Asiatique— all true icons along the riverside—but what about the multitude of small sites which have shaped, up to this day, the banks of the aptly named ‘River of the Kings’? One fascinating aspect of this waterway comes from the mixture of bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS

Wat Rachathiwat

Mahakan Fort

Thai and foreign communities living side by side, blending their traditions and religions—such as in temples that are some of the city’s true “hidden gems”. For example, Wat Kalayanamit (Arun Amarin Rd, Soi 6) on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya, built

Historic

Bangkok

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

Carlo Rigoli's murals

during the reign of Rama III, contains the largest Buddha image sculpted during the reign of the king. And it is surrounded by exquisite preserved monasteries. Next to it is the small but charming Kuan An Keng Shrine, a demure Chinese temple with superb wood carvings. Another magnificent landmark, distinguished with a UNESCO heritage award, is Wat Prayoon (Arun Amarin Rd, Soi 4), also located in Thonburi. Its most striking feature is a 60.5 metre high chedi covered in shiny white, and surrounded by 54 arches designed in European classical style. On the Bangkok side, the Samsen district has been home to a Vietnamese community for over 100 years. When they arrived they brought with them their adopted Catholic heritage, as testified by two lovely churches: Saint Francis Xavier Church, built in classical style in 1867; and the Immaculate Conception Church (both located at Samsen, Soi 11). The latter is, in fact, Bangkok's oldest church, as it was founded by a Portuguese mission in 1674. Its current shape, in Neo-Renaissance style, dates from Rama V’s reign. Nearby is the curious Wat Rachathiwat (3 Samsen Rd, Soi 9). The main ubosot (hall) is a blend of Khmerinspired and Western-style features. The shape of the gables, the windows, and doors are a reinterpretation of Khmer architecture, while the roof is

inspired by Hausmann-style buildings in Paris! The structure’s architect was Prince Naris, while artist Carlo Rigoli painted—in Italian style—scenes depicting the life of The Buddha within. The Banglamphu community could be considered today as the historical lively heart of the Chao Phraya River on the Bangkok city side. It is the community living along Khao San and Phra Arthit roads, and this was where the aforementioned River Fair was organized. This area is also notable in that it is still home to the old fortifications of Bangkok. In Phra Sumen Road, facing the delicately ornate Italian-style temple Wat Bowonniwet, stands a large piece of the old city wall with its arched gateway. Here also stand the two last historic military forts in Bangkok. Phra Sumen Fort, built at the end of the 18th century in an octagonal shape, stands today in the middle of a park on Phra Arthit Road. The other is Mahakan Fort which remains, along with a piece of the old city wall, along Maha Chai Road. This latter landmark is now undergoing extensive renovation but has also been embroiled in a civic controversy. The city hall decided to evict the communities living inside the fort, despite having resided there for a century or more. Their community will, in turn, be replaced by a public park, which is yet another story altogether. NOV EM BER 2017 | 51

SUNPLAY BANGSARAY Active Lifestyle Community for The Young at Heart

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midst an expansive landscaped estate, just minutes away from the warm waters and gentle sea breezes of the Gulf of Thailand, lies the Sunplay Bangsaray. The estate is situated near the quiet village of Bangsaray, known for its fresh seafood restaurants, tranquil atmosphere, and the genuine warmth of the local people. It’s also just 30 minutes from the myriad attractions of Pattaya City. Residents of this impressive new property development will benefit from an outstanding range of on-site facilities, built around an entirely new vision of what an active lifestyle community should be. The development is set on 175 rai (28 hectares) of prime sea view land—close to the ocean, but just two hours from Bangkok—with generous private gardens and unique modern tropical architecture.

The development’s residential offerings include: SUNPLAY The Heights Bangsaray, consisting of 70 units; 50 Pool Villas with land sizes ranging from 650 to 2,000 sq.m and 11 luxury villas known as The Villa Collection, on land plots averaging 2,500 sq.m. In all the spacious villas, units, and residences, a sleek modern design has been combined with a tropical aesthetic, creating living spaces that blend seamlessly with the surrounding environment. A unique feature of the Sunplay community is the superbly equipped Sunplay Club, which features 5,000 sq.m of spacious indoor and outdoor facilities. There, residents can enjoy a full-range of activities designed for those who value an active and independent lifestyle. Facilities include: a fitness centre; a large outdoor swimming pool; tennis courts;

19/2 Sithakarn 3/F, Soi Chidlom, Lumpinee, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 Thailand

www.sunplay.asia

1.5 km of jogging trails; 2.6 km of biking trails; putting green; games room; billiard room; and more. Residents also have access to The Sunplay Club’s deli/café, poolside restaurant and bar, fine dining restaurant and wine cellar. Meanwhile, the management team makes sure that from the moment you take up residence you will experience an unparalleled level of service. Public areas are kept spotlessly clean, gardens are carefully tended, comprehensive security, including uniformed guards and CCTV, ensures the safety of all residents, while 24-hour medical call access guarantees peace of mind. Sunplay Asia also pays special attention to sustainability and resource management. These green initiatives include: planted rooftops to maximize

insulation, reducing temperatures, and the need for air-conditioning; open expansive designs to maximize air circulation; flat-roof designs to provide maximum area for solar panels (optional); water recycling systems for garden maintenance; and electric golf carts for internal estate transportation. Sunplay Bangsaray is the perfect lifestyle investment for the young at heart. BANGKOK OFFICE Sunplay Asia Ltd., 19/2 Sithakarn, 3/F Soi Chidlom, Bangkok 10330 T. +662 655 6420 M. +6687 945 6321 E. grace@sunplay.asia www.sunplay.asia

Idyllic tropical beauty awaits visitors to Koh Mak

GO EAST 101 I

f you begin with Bangkok as the centre point of Thailand, it’s easy to travel by air in any direction, and find points of interest and popular tourist vacation getaway spots. However, due to the relative scarcity of airports, the areas due east and southeast of Bangkok are perhaps a little less frequented than other regions across the country. Of course, for those looking to get away from the usual hordes of holiday makers Thailand is known to attract, this is a very good thing indeed! The primary method for heading to the East and Southeast is by car or coach bus. In fact, you can simply get on Sukhumvit Road in downtown Bangkok and follow it all the way to the Cambodian border—passing through the provinces of Samut Prakan, Chachoengsao, Chonburi, Rayong, Chanthaburi, and Trat (where the road ends at Ban Hat Lek village). Along the way you could easily make stopovers in holiday hotspots such as PATTAYA, SATTAHIP, BANGSARAY, and the historic town of CHANTABURI. Of course, if you decided to stop driving and hop on a ferry to one of the many islands in this part of the Gulf of Thailand, you’d be visiting some of the nation’s most exquisite tropical paradises. These islands are all known for their incredible beaches and crystal clear waters, but each has its own particular character and personality as well. If you’re after a party vibe, you should definitely head to KOH SAMET or KOH CHANG, but if you’re after something a little more low key and tranquil, then KOH MAK and KOH KOOD should fit the bill quite nicely. Or, if you want your own exclusive slice of heaven, KOH MUNNORK exists as a private island reserved solely for guests of the Koh Munnork Private Island Resort (operated by Epikurean Lifestyle). Until recently the only commercial airport operating in this region was the one in Trat Province, but a recent makeover has turned U-TAPAO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT—a joint civil– military public airport serving Rayong and Pattaya cities—into a modern facility capable of handling many more incoming tourists. This is all part of BANGKOK Pattaya the official strategy to develop Thailand’s EASTERN ECONOMIC CORRIDOR (EEC). The hope is that tourism, Rayong and other growth industries, will turn this region into Sattahip Chantaburi one of the leading economic zones in Southeast Asia. In addition, future plans include a double track railway into Trat these Eastern provinces, directly linking them with Don Mueang, Suvarnabhumi, and U-Tapao airports. Plans have also been underway—for rather a long time, actually—to build an airport on Koh Chang, the largest island in the Mu Koh Chang National Park archipelago, but that project has yet to get off the ground. So for the time being this island, and it’s neighbours Koh Mak and Koh Kood, are still remote enough to ensure that relative peace and calm can still be found by intrepid travellers.

TRAVEL | focus on koh chang

Chill Out in Koh Chang Exploring the vast expanse of the ‘Elephant Isle’ By Bruce Scott

Klong Prao Beach

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or many seasoned travelers—myself included—Koh Chang, the largest island in the Mu Koh Chang National Park archipelago, has everything a holiday maker could want. And although that summation sounds clichéd, it’s actually quite applicable. The island’s vast 429 sq.km area is as welcoming to upscale guests as it is to budget backpackers, and the terrain offers everything from hiking trails and mountain waterfalls nestled deep in rugged tropical jungle, to the most serenely peaceful stretches of white sand beachfront, stunning coral reefs, and beautiful marine life. Koh Chang has also seen an incredible amount of development and modernization over the past few decades—some not-so-old residents can still remember a time when the island had no electricity—but despite the ever-increasing number of restaurants, spas, resorts, and recreation spots now open, there’s still an overall laid back feel to the place (something that’s much harder to find in overrun tourist hotspots like Phuket, which now has traffic jams that rival Bangkok). Getting to Koh Chang still requires some effort, as there is no island airport, and that too keeps the tourist influx to a more manageable level. The boats to Koh Chang are all large car ferries, and they run from 6am to 7:30pm daily, throughout the year, departing from Tha Laem Ngop and Tha Centre Point piers on the mainland in Trat province (timetables and information can be found on www.kohchangferries.com). But once you’ve made the trek, and settled into your resort or guesthouse, the next step is to rent a motorcycle or scooter (about 250 to 350 baht per day, depending upon the make and model) or use the island’s network of song taews and taxis to go

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exploring. Be aware though that the ideal time to visit is from early October to late May (the dry season), as during the heavy rainy season the steeply inclined mountain roads can become very treacherous.

Ban Chang Thai Elephant Camp

ELEPHANT CAMPS: No trip to an island named Koh Chang—which translates to Elephant Island—would be complete without visiting one of the elephant training camps, where seasoned mahouts take visitors on elephant treks through the jungle forests. Two popular and respected operations are Ban Chang Thai Elephant Camp, centrally located near Klong Prao, and Ban Kwan Chang Elephant Camp, located deep in the jungle at the north end of the island near Klong Son (the latter is supported by Asian Elephant Foundation of Thailand). bangkok101.com

focus on koh chang | TRAVEL fishing village features houses built on stilts that overhang the water’s edge, and the Buddha View Restaurant even has a glass floor where diners can overlook the watery depths. This southern enclave is also the spot to access the Bang Bao Boat Service runs daily trips, both slow boats and speedboats, from the Bang Bao pier to the neighbouring islands of Koh Mak (see pg. 59) and Koh Kood (see pg. 62).

Klong Plu waterfall

WATERFALLS: The two most frequented waterfalls on Koh Chang are both part of the island’s National Park interior, and therefore both require non-Thai visitors to pay a B200 admission fee. On the western side of the island the Nam Tok Khlong Plu waterfall in Klong Prao (open 8am to 5pm), attracts the most visitors as the lengthy but easy to manage winding forest trail leads directly to the falls. The large tide pool under the falls is also perfect for a cooling afternoon dip, so don’t forget your bathing suit. In addition, a nature walk through the jungle canopy was added a few years ago, which takes about 30 to 40 minutes, so leave yourself ample time if you plan to do both. By contrast, the Than Mayom Waterfall near Dan Mai (open from 8am to 5pm) is located on the island’s eastern side. The lower tier has a refreshing plunge pool, but the 4th tier—by far the most dramatic—is some 5 km inland (accessible only with a private guided trek). Kings Rama V and Rama VII engraved their initials in rocks at different points along the river’s course, so these falls have an added importance with Thai visitors. VIEWPOINTS: Take a trip to the northern end of the island for some lovely cliffside vistas—especially good at sunset—and drop in on the Chinese Buddhist Temple just north of Klong Son. At the southern end of Koh Chang the fishing village of Bang Bao (left) is a great spot for a languorous lunch and some afternoon relaxation. This traditional bangkok101.com

BEACHES: The best beaches on Koh Chang are located on island’s western side, and as such they all offer spectacular sunset views. The aptly named White Sand Beach (Hat Sai Khao) to the north is by far the most touristy spot on the island, due in part to the fact that it’s the beach closest to the ferry piers. Everything a visitor needs is within easy walking distance along the busy main street—restaurants, bars, shops, etc.—and the accommodations are mainly 2- and 3-star resorts sitting directly on the beach (although some grander properties are interspersed amongst them). Further south lies Klong Prao Beach, which is the longest beach on the island, although it is cut into three parts by a large estuary in the centre of the beach, and a much smaller one near the south. Accommodations along this serene stretch of sand range from large, luxurious resorts, such as the Centrara Tropicana, The Dewa, and the Emerald Cove Resort (see pg. 54) to longstanding budget backpacker havens such as KP Huts and Tiger Hut. However, the number of properties is relatively small compared to the length of the beach, so it’s easy to find a quiet spot to swim even in peak season.

Superb sunsets

Another length of beach that is divided into sections is the charming Kai Bae Beach. The Southern end has the better stretch of sand, and several locally owned bungalow resorts, while the Northern end is home to more upscale properties. Finally, there’s Lonely Beach, which is still ground zero for most budget-minded under 30 visitors to the island—although it’s been moving more upmarket over the years, attracting equal numbers of backpackers and “flashpackers”. The party vibe is in the air at all times, and accommodations run the gamut from cheap guesthouses to higher end properties such as Nest Sense and Warapura Resort. NOTE: For further information about what to see and do in Koh Chang, including trekking, diving, and even volunteering, visit www.explorekohchang.com. NOV EM BER 2017 | 57

TRAVEL | where to stay koh chang

The Emerald Cove

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deally located on a secluded stretch of Khlong Prao Beach, The Emerald Cove Koh Chang is a 5-star property offering 165 rooms and suites, all with balcony views of either the sea to the west or the jungle-covered hills to the east. The rooms also feature satellite TV, coffee and tea making facilities, free Wi-Fi, and a luxurious bathroom with separated bathtub and shower. Communal amenities for guests include: a 50-metre beachfront pool;

kids’ pool and recreation centre, Jacuzzi; fitness centre; and the world-class Emerald Spa. Kayaks are also available for use, and the hotel’s diving centre can arrange undersea adventures. Meanwhile, diners can enjoy delicious breakfasts and an all-day a la carte menu at The Cove Terrace, the resort’s newly renovated beachside restaurant. Other dining spots include Soyokaze, for Japanese delights, and Just Thai, which offers a wide selection of Thai and seafood specialties. Finally,

enjoy refreshing drinks and light bites at The Pool Lounge (open daily from 10am till 11pm), or indulge in the sophisticated atmosphere of the Macao Lounge, where fine coffee, premium whiskey, and aromatic cigars are the preferred indulgences.

The Emerald Cove Koh Chang 88/8 Moo 4, Klong Prao Beach Tel: 03 955 2000 www.emeraldcovekohchang.com

WHERE TO EAT - KOH CHANG For your first island dinner, head out for some famous Koh Chang style roast chicken. You’ll see lots of these BBQ eateries along the main drag on the western side of the island (just look for whole chicken roasting on spits over charcoal flames). It’s a great way to soak up some local island vibes. For beachfront dining with a casual atmosphere, but top-notch grub, make a trip to Thor’s Restaurant on Hat Sai Khao. Thor and his staff are known for their effusive charm and gaiety, and the menu here boasts a wide selection of fragrant curries and one-of-a-kind tropical cocktails. Another beautiful spot in Hat Sai Khao is the Invito Al Cibo Italian restaurant (part of the Koh Chang Hut Hotel). It’s not only one of Koh Chang’s finest Italian restaurants, but it also offers incredible sunset views from the clifftop outdoor deck. For a relaxing morning or early afternoon leisurely spent enjoying a cappuccino and croissant, or one of many delicious sandwich combos, seek out Crust Bakery (left), a popular bakery/deli located in the centre of Klong Prao village with plenty of shaded, outdoor seating. Finally, for something decidedly different visit Barrio Bonito. Located in the village of Kai Bae (in front of the Garden Resort), this Mexican resto dishes up fabulous fare—including tacos, burritos, and great guacamole—alongside potent margartias and imported craft beer (including labels from Mexico). Open daily from 5pm to 10pm.

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focus on koh mak | TRAVEL

Idyllic Island

Koh Mak remains an unspoiled hidden holiday gem Words and photos by Bruce Scott Kayaking at sunset

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hen compared to its mountainous neighbours Koh Chang and Koh Kood, the island of Koh Mak is quite tiny—only 16 sq.km—and relatively flat. However, the list of things to see and do here is huge. Back in 2014 I spent several months living on Koh Mak, and as a result got to experience almost everything this idyllic slice of paradise has to offer. Since I stopped living on this tiny island I’ve heard that some things haven’t changed—the island is still more or less car-free, with the exception of a few pick-up trucks and song taews, and there’s still no ATM there—but change is inevitable in this world and Koh Mak is not immune. In the intervening years more restaurants and mini marts have opened, more concrete roads have been built, and there’s now a covered tennis court, a Muay Thai boxing gym, and several new resorts. But thankfully, there’s still a ban on 7-11’s, jet skis, and girlie bars.

Koh Mak Museum bangkok101.com

A slice of paradise

The island of Koh Mak is owned by a small group of families, all of whom work together to ensure that any development on the island proceeds in a sustainable way, and that “undesirable” elements are kept out. On a larger scale, the majority of the residents cooperate to make the island as “green” as possible, organizing group beach clean ups and encouraging large-scale recycling. Recently, the Thai government’s Designated Areas for Sustainable Tourism Administration (DASTA) selected Koh Mak as a pilot project to promote ‘Green Island Tourism’ and are championing it as a ‘Low Carbon Destination’. The only way to get to Koh Mak is by boat, and most dock at Ao Nid Pier, on the eastern side. Just north of the pier sits the island’s sole museum—moderately interesting for a quick look-see—but the golden Buddha statues overlooking the bay at nearby Wat Koh Mak are much better for scenic photo ops. NOV EM BER 2017 | 59

TRAVEL | focus on koh mak are two dive operations here—the long running Koh Mak Divers, now entering their 22nd season, and BB Divers who have been in business for four years now. Both make snorkeling and scuba diving excursions to the uninhabited, coral-ringed smaller islands that surround Koh Mak. Another off-island experience is a visit to Koh Kradat, a very flat little island that is home to a population of about 2,000 wild deer. Admission to the island is B100 and kayaking there is easy. Finally, if you’re in the mood for an unforgettable dinner, with an equally unforgettable view, pay a visit to the Grand Ocean Seafood Restaurant at the hilltop Islanda Resort Hotel.

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL For several years now American-born Kevin Horton (left) and his wife have been return visitors to Koh Mak, spending many months at a time living on the island. Here now is Kevin’s ‘Top 5 Must-Do’ list.

Beach at Ao Suan Yai

On the far western side is Ao Soun Pier, where you can catch speedboats to and from Koh Chang and Koh Kood. But the real draw here is Ao Suan Yai, a beautiful scalloped-shaped bay with glittering white sand and crystal clear blue-green waters (this bay is also home to the luxurious Koh Mak Resort). Nearby is another island attraction, but one that is not actively promoted as it is a bit too “out there” for the general public. The Love Temple, as it’s referred to by some people here, is a private sculpture garden that is the brainchild of a man named Somchai, a Burmese native who came to Thailand over 30 years ago. He amuses himself by creating weird erotic painted concrete sculptures to populate his front yard, backyard, and anywhere else on his property where there is space. His home is just off Luang Prom Pak Dee Road, down an unassuming dirt path (when you see the topless mermaid sculpture, you’ll know you’re at the right place). If you’re looking for some off-island activities, there

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Take a cooking course from P’Leng at Smile Koh Mak Thai Cooking School. Awesome teacher, oceanfront location, totally customizable menu… and, quite seriously, you will eat some of the best Thai food you have ever had—and you made it! www.smilekohmak.com

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Across from the Koh Mak Resort, on the northwest side, is a small island named Koh Kahm, which you can get to by kayaking, or taking a boat (but kayaking is better). A B100 landing fee gets you a soda, and all-day access to frolic on fine white sand. A failed resort on the island imported the sand, and it is different than anywhere else on Koh Mak… like powdered sugar! The half-built resort is still there, slowly being eaten by the jungle.

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Trek to the top of the hill at the west end of Koh Mak and find the hidden meadow overlooking the sea cliffs and the marine reserve to the west. Find the dirt trail, follow it, look for the dry creek, go to the top of the hill, and then make a left.

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Rent a scooter for a day and explore the friendly roads of Koh Mak. Don’t forget the hidden paths through the jungle. It’s a car-free island, so it has little traffic. And if you get lost, you will get found again as the island is not that big.

5 Somchai and his sculptures 60 | NOV EM BER 2017

Sundowners on the deck at Banana Sunset Bar & Bungalows. It’s the best place on the island to watch for the green flash at sunset while you sip your favourite libation. www.bananasunset.com

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where to stay koh mak | TRAVEL

Ao Kao Beach Resort

Villa Pool View, or the Sun Sweet bungalows. All the units come with a spacious bedroom, a bathroom with a rain shower, and a private roof terrace. And while the accommodations have a laid-back tropical feel, they also boast many modern amenities—such as free Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV, air-conditioning, in-room safe, and fridge. When it comes to activities there’s lots to keep travellers busy, including a Muay Thai camp, beach volleyball, tennis, and kayaking. There’s also mountain bikes available for rent to explore this car-free island. Of course, for many vacationers nothing beats simply relaxing by the beach, and the resort’s excellent Good View Beach Restaurant—built on a wooden terrace with stunning views over the ocean— serves up excellent Thai, international, and vegetarian dishes, as well as fresh seafood (supplied by local fishermen). Finally, to enjoy the spectacular sunsets, The Beach Bar lets you put your toes in the sand while enjoying great Happy Hour (or any hour) cocktails. by Bruce Scott

The beach at Ao Kao Resort

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he Ao Kao White Sand Beach Resort is one of those places that never seems to stop improving itself. In recent years the addition of several stylish new villas and bungalows, as well as a swimming pool, have made the resort even more attractive to the upscale travel market. In addition, the team have also opened two new F&B outlets in the past few years—namely Koh Mak Pizza, an Italian-style wood-fired pizza oven eatery where customers can choose their own toppings, and The Coco Bar, which offers a taste of Europe in the form of real Italian espresso, draft beer, classic cocktails, and fine wine. However, one thing that has never needed improving here is the beach and the views. The resort is situated on the beautiful south side of the island, where shallow waters caress long stretches of fine white sand. It’s idyllic in so many senses of the word. For visiting guests, the resort bangkok101.com

offers a variety of comfortable, modern accommodations, set amidst towering palm trees. There are 25 bungalows in total, and guests can choose between the Sunset Villa Beach Front, Sunshine

Ao Kao Beach Resort

60/1, Moo 1, Sudhidhanakul Rd. Tel: 083 152 6564 www.aokaoresort.com

ALSO RECOMMENDED THAIDAHO VISTA RESORT: A really nice affordable B&B-style place with a million-dollar view. www.thaidaho.com LITTLE MOON VILLA: Eleven cool little villas located on a private beach, surrounded by tall trees and mangroves. www.littlemoonvilla.com SEAVANA BEACH RESORT: The ultimate relaxing and romantic retreat, with its own private 1 km stretch of serene beach. www.seavanakohmak.com BAAN ING KAO RESORT: For funky Gilligan’s Island feel, these bungalows, on the remote western tip of the island, are situated on a small private bay. www.baaningkao.com MONKEY ISLAND RESORT: The nightlife on Koh Mak is pretty tame… except at this quirky spot, which includes the Monkey Bar—the place to go for live music. www.monkeyislandkohmak.com

NOV EM BER 2017 | 61

TRAVEL | where to stay koh kood

Soneva Kiri Resort Koh Kood’s most prestigious property offers barefoot luxury at its best

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he island of Koh Kood is Thailand at its tropical best—full of pristine beaches and jungle hillsides—but getting to it from Bangkok can take the better part of an entire day. However, when you book a stay at the über-luxe Soneva Kiri Resort you can be taken there in exclusive style aboard an 8-seat Cessna Caravan 280B, which drops you off at the resort’s private island landing strip in just over an hour (departing from Suvarnabhumi International airport, a slight additional fee applies). The flight itself is unforgettable, and from the low cruising altitude of 9,000 feet you get great views of the other islands in the Gulf of Thailand. But soon enough you’re on solid ground again, and after a quick speedboat ride across the bay you are welcomed by the Soneva Kiri staff and appointed your own personal ‘Mr. or Ms. Friday’, a staff member who’s task it is to see that you have everything you need to ensure a pleasant stay. The resort also playfully enforces a ‘no shoes’ policy, so guests are encouraged to go barefoot for the duration of their visit. In fact, a key philosophy of the Soneva group is the ‘slowlife’ approach, which promotes sustainable, organic, and inspired experiences. Each of the 36 villas on offer has a private pool and guests also have access to their very own electric golf 62 | NOV EM BER 2017

cart—which comes in handy for getting around the sprawling but well-organized property. The villas range in size from the seven 403 sq.m Ocean Pool Villa Suites, to the six-bedroom Private Cliff Pool Reserve Villa which encompasses an extraordinary 2,928 sq.m and can accommodate up to 16 persons. We found ourselves comfortably housed in one of the four Beach Pool Villa Suites (403 sq.m), and while the unit exuded luxury at every turn, it also blended in beautifully with the surrounding greenery. Bamboo and other woods are utilized extensively in the construction, and the bathing facilities are almost entirely outdoors— including a sexy oval-shaped bathtub built into the wooden terrace. The room also has many high-tech amenities, including fridge, espresso machine, air-conditioning, flatscreen TV, and inroom Wi-Fi, but it still feels charmingly rustic (the TV, for instance, is not even revealed until you flip open the lid of what looks like a stack of vintage suitcases by the foot of the bed). The sunrise-facing villa also came with its own private strip of beach, but the gorgeous swimming pool—which wraps around the length of the villa’s façade—was utilized a bit more on our trip. There’s also a spacious outdoor deck which overlooks the pool, complete with two sun loungers and an enormous L-shaped shaded sofa.

Each morning a bountiful breakfast is served buffet style—with an array of made-to-order options available as well—at the ocean facing The View restaurant. However, “the view” is even better if you make a booking for the Treepod Dining experience (available for breakfast, lunch, or dinner). This specially-designed dining booth seats four adults and motorized pulley system hoists it high in the air, giving lucky diners an unparalleled view of the bay, looking out from between the treetop canopy. The meal is then served by a designated waiter who uses a zipline to whisk himself back and forth to where the food arrives fresh from the kitchen. More “down-to-earth” dining experiences are readily available at Soneva Kiri, including à la carte dining at the beachside So Spirited restaurant. But for a true taste of Thailand have at least one dinner at Benz restaurant. Housed in a traditional wooden stilted house, with a deck built over the water, the concept here is “no-menu”— meaning that Chef Benz prepares her dishes using whatever is fresh that day. The multi-course menu we sampled was absolutely delicious and the quality of the ingredients was undeniable. There are many unique recreational diversions scattered throughout the property, including the charming Cinema Paradiso, where movie buffs can watch classics under bangkok101.com

where to stay koh kood | TRAVEL

Treepod Dining Experience

The View Restaurant

the stars at an overwater outdoor cinema. Another section worth a visit is the resort’s vast Eco Centro facility, where leftover cooking oil is transformed into bio-diesel, and where row upon row of carefully tended gardens produce much of the produce used in the on-site restaurants. The resort also boasts the Six Senses Spa, which consists of eight spacious treatments rooms nestled deep in the tranquil jungle greenery.

Beach Pool Villa Suite

Benz Restaurant

Here a team of highly skilled therapists take guests on uplifting sensory journeys— from mud massages, to Thai herbal baths, silk facials, and warm oil Ayurvedic body massages. And while the Sovena Kiri is perhaps the ultimate destination for carefree couples on a romantic retreat, the resort also takes good care of families with children. Little ones under five years of age receive dedicated childcare at the Eco Den, while older kids are

invited to explore their creativity at the fantastically constructed Children’s Den, all under the supervision of dedicated caretakers (leaving mom and dad some time alone back in that glorious villa). by Bruce Scott

Soneva Kiri Resort

110, Moo 4, Koh Kood District Tel: 082 208 8888 www.soneva.com/soneva-kiri

KOH KOOD ISLAND EXCURSIONS The staff at Sovena Kiri can organize an array of daytime excursions, and one of the most popular is a snorkeling trip out to some of the neighbouring uninhabited islands which are ringed with coral reefs and home to schools or brightly coloured fish and other marine animals. You can also go inland, by car, and have a guided tour of the local fishing village at Ao Salad. But if weather permits, don’t miss the thrill of swimming in the freshwater tidal pool that forms at the base of the Khlong Chao Waterfall. To get to the falls takes a short trek through the forest, and a clamber over some slippery rocks, but the reward is a refreshing dip in the cool waters. You can also stand under the falls themselves—if you are a good enough swimmer to fight the current and make it to the rocks below the cascade. The falls are also famous for a 1911 visit by His Majesty King Rama VI who carved his initials in the face of one of the boulders.

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NOV EM BER 2017 | 63

TRAVEL | where to stay rayong

Holiday Inn & Suites Rayong City Centre Standing tall in the heart of downtown Rayong

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he city of Rayong, and the province of Rayong itself, are both parts of Thailand that the average tourist may overlook. However, business professionals know that Rayong is not only a vibrant manufacturing region but also a great place to enjoy a weekend getaway from Bangkok. And while the primary lure of Rayong has always been long sandy beaches such as Hat Mae Rumphueng, and the pier that offers ferry rides to the popular tourist island of Koh Samet, the Holiday Inn & Suites Rayong City Centre now offers visitors more of a reason to visit Rayong’s downtown core. The 30-storey city hotel—which just opened its doors in the first week of September, and has a Grand Opening celebration set for late November—provides travellers with 288 comfortable guest rooms to choose from, including 64 spacious suites (many of which can be rented

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as adjoining rooms). The range of suites are aimed at the hotel’s longer term guests, and include separate living room, dining table, bathtub (in addition to shower), and limited cooking facilities. Guests who book anything from the One Bedroom Club Corner Suite upwards are entitled to ‘Executive Club’ privileges, which includes access to the private Executive Club on the 27th floor for the whole day, where complimentary snacks, coffee, tea and drinks are served, as well as an evening wine and cocktail social from 6pm till 8pm. Other guests can also access the Executive Club by paying an extra supplement. The rooms themselves are designed and furnished in a modern contemporary style, using a bright but always tasteful range of whites, muted blues, soothing greys, and pale wood tones. Each guest room offers an array of amenities designed to

make your stay more comfortable, including in-room safe, ironing board and iron, blackout shades, tea and coffee making supplies, work desk, mini bar, and fridge. In addition, high-tech amenities include flatscreen satellite TV (with premium channels), iPod docking station, and free Wi-Fi. But sometimes it’s the little things that can make all the difference, and for me I just loved the plush terrycloth bathrobes—made to fit the Western physique. For business travellers the hotel offers an assortment of meeting rooms—all named after local Rayong districts—including a grand ballroom capable of holding 500 persons theatre-style. But for guests looking for a place to simply unwind, the 29th floor infinity swimming pool delivers high altitude breezes and stunning views of the ocean as well as the surrounding countryside. The fact that the hotel is the tallest bangkok101.com

where to stay rayong | TRAVEL

MEET THE MANAGER In conversation with Ian Pirodon, General Manager of the Holiday Inn & Suites Rayong City Centre. Who generally makes up your client base so far? Rayong basically has been in a state where there is a lot of local travelers coming in, such as corporates working in SCG/PTT, the petro chemical industries, but the Eastern seaboard is full of international companies, most of whom have been staying in Pattaya. But with our international brand we bring a level of service standard and international cuisine that they just couldn’t find in Rayong before. So even in our short opening phase we are seeing so many international guests coming through.

building in Rayong means that visitors to this elevated outdoor viewpoint have unobstructed views in every direction. There’s also a fitness room beside the pool, with treadmills and free weights. The hotel has a number of F&B outlets, of which The Brasserie, located on the 5th floor, is probably the most frequented. A sumptuous buffet breakfast is served here for overnight guests—who can take advantage of indoor or outdoor seating—after which the restaurant offers à la carte lunch and dinner menus. The dinner menu offerings run the gamut from Thai specialties to European and international delicacies, with stand-out dishes that include: chicken with cashew nuts; grilled pork steak with vegetables; Massaman lamb curry with roti bread; and desserts such as crème brulée tart and raspberry cheesecake. There’s also an impressive drinks menu and wine selection to accompany meals, and on Friday and Saturday nights a buffet dinner is served (for guests who want to try a bit of everything). The hotel’s other F&B outlet is bangkok101.com

the CU Lounge & Bar, located on the ground floor by the lobby. Stop by for a variety of light meals and snacks, complemented by Lavazza coffees and premium teas, as well as an extensive selection of cocktails, wines and beers. And, by the time you read this, the finishing touches will have been put on the hotel’s two newest socializing spots—a Cigar Lounge on the ground floor, and Elementi, the hotel’s premiere Italian restaurant up on the 30th floor (scheduled to open at the beginning of November). All this culinary sophistication is welcome news to both the residents of Rayong and tourists visiting the area. And while the beachfront still offers lots of yummy seafood shacks by the water, the city’s fine dining scene is now centred firmly around this newly opened civic landmark. by Bruce Scott

Holiday Inn & Suites Rayong City Centre 554/5 Sukhumvit Rd, Noen Pra, Muang Rayong, Rayong Tel: 03 897 8789 www.holidayinn.com/rayong

What is the key feature that sets this hotel apart? The key feature for us is the 64 one-bedroom suites. We’re the first Holiday Inn Suites property in Thailand. They’re designed for these types of environments where you do have some longstay—anything from 10 days to three months—and it gives them the opportunity to feel at home. What are some of the things to do and see in Rayong? The Prasae Mangrove Forest Walk is about 15 minutes away, and within a short radius of the hotel you’ve got key highlight attractions including a strawberry farm, a floating market (which is just around the corner), this seafood corridor which attracts a lot of Bangkok Thai travelers, and during the fruit seasons you get a lot of visitors—particularly during the durian season. Our hinterland view, from the rear of the hotel, looks out onto the [Suan Son] National Park. For our Bangkok market they’re amazed by the greenery. We want to change people’s perspective of what Rayong City comes across as. It’s known as an industrial estate but it’s also a lovely town.

NOV EM BER 2017 | 65

TRAVEL | focus on chonburi

Get Hip to Sattahip Moving beyond the confines of Pattaya By Bruce Scott

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t the far southern tip of Chonburi province sits Sattahip, which encompasses an area of almost 350 sq.km. Although often considered as part of the general “Pattaya” area, this district has many unique features that set it apart and make it a destination worth taking some time to explore.

Botanical Gardens, a 1,500-rai (600-acre) plot of land full of meticulously manicured greenery. The grounds are divided into thematic sections—such as the Italian garden, the Versailles-inspired French garden, the animal sculpture garden, and Butterfly Hill—and there are daily Thai cultural performances and elephant shows. Families also love the two enormous water parks located in this region—the Cartoon Network Amazone and the Ramayana Water Park—as well as the Swiss Sheep Farm, a European-styled farm environment with lots of cute animals to entertain the young ones.

HTMS Chakri Naruebet

For those keen on the military, Sattahip is home to the Sattahip Naval Base—the largest base of the Royal Thai Navy in Thailand—and here you’ll find the HTMS Chakri Naruebet, the Thai Navy’s sole aircraft carrier. Unfortunately, only Thai citizens are allowed to tour this vessel. In Thai the word satta means “seven”, and hip refers to a “box” or “barrier”, and thus the district’s name refers to the seven main islands off coast that, in effect, protect this region. Not all can be easily visited, but some are set up for tourism, including Koh Samae San, Koh Khram, and Koh Klet Kaew (more popularly known as ‘Monkey Island’). Or, if you don’t want to leave the mainland, just make a visit to Bangsaray Beach to find your own oceanfront oasis.

Silverlake Vineyard

A different sort of family-friendly outing—and one that adults can also enjoy on their own—is a visit to Silverlake Vineyard. Founded in 2002, the winery’s main estate is built in a Tuscan style, and guided tours of the winemaking facilities are available daily, concluding with wine tasting and tapas on the terrace. The wines made here include a variety of exotic red, white, and rose ‘New Latitude’ wines (those cultivated outside of the traditional wine regions), which are also available at the vineyard’s on-site Italianstyle eatery, the Silverlake Wine & Grill Restaurant.

OCEAN MARINA BOAT SHOW

Nong Nooch Tropical Botanical Gardens

Family friendly on-land attractions are plentiful here, and one of the most popular is the Nong Nooch Tropical 66 | NOV EM BER 2017

From November 23rd to the 26th the Ocean Marina Pattaya Boat Show 2017 takes over the Ocean Marina Yacht Club (located just north of Sattahip). Organizers expect more than 4,000 high-profile visitors to turn up during the four-day event, which showcases the growing yachting industry in Southeast Asia. Highlights include daily free yacht cruises, kayaking, paddle boats, and a lively food and drinks festival. The show runs from 11am till 7pm each day. www.fb.com/oceanmarinapattayaboatshow

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TRAVEL | making merit

New Game in Town

The annual World Championships of Ladyboy Water Volleyball charity event is now in its 6th year

Photo by Mikel Flamm

By Robin Westley Martin

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aving just watched a BBC documentary on transgender people, I learned that millions of folk around the world feel uncomfortable in their bodies, as they do not feel that the sex they were assigned to at birth was the right one for them. They feel trapped in the wrong body. In Thailand this is not so much an issue. Sexuality in Thailand is quite free and open, and transgender men— known colloquially as ‘Ladyboys’, or Katoeys—can be seen everywhere. They often find employment as cabaret performers, or in bars and clubs, and on Thai TV they work as presenters, comedians, and sometimes serious actors. They also can be found in professional settings—working as shop clerks, nurses, lawyers, etc.—and for the most part they are shown a great deal of acceptance. They are, to put it simply, a part of Thai culture, but even in this accepting society Ladyboys still have their detractors. Combating this prejudice is long-time Pattaya resident Tony Sales. About six years ago Tony decided he wanted to give something back to Thailand, to repay the nation for all the good times he’s enjoyed here. He was familiar with a few local bar owners, and was also aware that sometimes Ladyboys did not always receive favourable write-ups in the press, so he came up with an idea. Knowing that these

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athletic girls—with stunning figures—who worked in the bars were highly competitive, he figured people might enjoy seeing them kitted out in their bikinis, in a swimming pool, playing a game of volleyball. That grain of an idea blossomed into the annual World Championships of Ladyboy Water Volleyball, now in its 6th year. The fun and games for the 2107 edition will take place on Saturday November 11th, starting at 1pm, in what has become the home of the event—the flat-bottomed pool of the Areca Lodge Hotel in central Pattaya (on Soi Diana). The event usually sells out in advance, but on the website there are links for donations, all of which will go to various charities. Only unavoidable expenses are paid for directly, such as the hire of the hotel and pool, promotion, and prize money for the winners. The event is dependent on the generosity of those who buy the tickets, and others from around the world who can’t be there in person but still make donations, or send in money to sponsor the teams. After all is over for the year, periodic follow up visits are made to the places that received the charitable donations—often with members of the volleyball teams and sponsors coming along so that everyone can see precisely what the money raised was used for. And they bangkok101.com

making merit | TRAVEL goods, a giant international buffet for all ticket holders and volunteer staff, and beers and wines on offer at really great discounts. There’s even musical performances by children from the orphanages that are recipients of the money raised. The charities that will benefit this year are the Pattaya Orphanage, the Glory Hut Foundation, and the Pakse Medical Centre in Southern Laos. If you weren’t lucky enough to score a ticket this year, check out the website for photos and videos, and when you see the tix for LBWVB 2018 go on sale, grab one quickly. See you there next year! www.lbwvb.com

GAME ON!

are joyfully received by the recipients, especially by the kids who live in the orphanages the charity supports. After this year’s tournament is over the event will have raised over five million baht for local charities. It is the top-earning one-day charity event held in the region, and now attracts international attention. “Although it is only a one-day event, it takes nearly a year to get everything into place,” explains Tony. “As soon as the event is over, the planning for the next one begins.” As Tony has been doing this mostly alone, and is not getting any younger, he is now very happy that the Rotary Club of the Eastern Seaboard are becoming more involved and helping him out, taking a little of the weight off his shoulders. The idea behind the whole show is that it’s a non-profit charitable event put on with the help of unpaid volunteers who want to provide an entertaining and unique fundraiser for charity. It also portrays Ladyboys in a positive and respectful manner, and promotes the participating venues and sponsors. But above all it gives everyone a fun day out—organizers, participants, and guests. The Pattaya-based teams taking part this year are: the White Sharks, sponsored by New Bar (Soi Made in Thailand); the Green Hornets, sponsored by Katoeys R Us (Soi Diamond, Walking St); the Pink Panthers, sponsored by Independent Laem Chabang; and the Black Scorpions, sponsored by Lita Bar (Soi 13/2). The lone Bangkok team will be the Golden Eagles, sponsored by Why Not (Sukhumvit Soi 20). Apart from the hugely competitive matches with the girls playing volleyball, there are a host of other things going on, including a DJ working throughout the day, a cheerleading competition, a raffle, an auction of donated bangkok101.com

The morning of the World Championships of Ladyboy Water Volleyball sees a hive of activity at Areca Lodge, as the poolside and surrounding area is transformed. Tents are erected, the all-important volleyball net is set into position in the pool, the speakers, PA system, and computers are set up for the DJ and MC, the scoreboard is erected, and the drinks stations, tables, and chairs, are put in place. At about mid-day guests from all over the world start to arrive. They have arranged to be in Thailand to coincide with this event—many having forged friendships with people they met at previous competitions (which only adds to the party atmosphere). As the music starts to pump, the beer and wine starts to flow. Friends old and new cheer the arrival of the volleyball players who receive even louder applause when they come back into the pool area after having changed into their bikinis. The teams will have been practicing hard for their volleyball matches over the preceding weeks, and some of their co-workers have developed elaborate cheerleading routines to spur them on. The venue starts to fill up rapidly, and the day really begins when the first two teams jump wildly into the pool, accompanied by cheers and applause from everyone present. The referee and scorekeeper now have to keep a close eye on the teams to make sure the naughty girls stick to the rules. The music continues to play throughout the afternoon, and as the matches progress quickly—in a round-robin format—it will soon become apparent that one team or another is gaining the competitive edge. With the spectators all the while loudly cheering and supporting their chosen team of beauties. After the eventual winner is finally decided upon, the team delightedly poses for photos as their cheerleading squad gives its final performance of the day—followed by a rousing final burst of wild applause from all present (guests, organizers, volunteers, and hotel staff). But even though the sport is over, the buffet, auction, and other evening entertainments are still to come. It really is a bloody great day out of fun and revelry!

NOV EM BER 2017 | 69

TRAVEL | upcountry now

PHIMAI FESTIVAL November 8-12

The annual Phimai Festival & Boat Race in Nakhon Ratchasima is an event that attracts more and more tourists every year. The highlight of the celebration is the traditional long-boat races, a competition that has been taking place here for many years. Other attractions include the spectacular light and sound performance at the Phimai Historical Park that tells the story of the glorious ancient period under the reign of King Jayavarman VII. There’s also a Korat cat competition, Khon classical Thai mask dances (presented by the Fine Arts Department), and a traditional arts and crafts fair.

KHAO YAI TRAIL MARATHON November 12

This year’s Khao Yai Trail Marathon, presented by Tiger Balm, offers spectacular trail runs including a 3.5K Fun-Run (B400), 10K Mini-Marathon (B950), 21K Half-Marathon (B1,100), and a 42K Marathon (B1,100). Held in and around the mountain foothills of Khao Yai National Park, the courses are mostly flat but cover enough terrain to keep things challenging. And, as part of the concept ‘Run with Green’, there will be limited amounts of paper cups at each watering station so runners should carry at a water bottle. Register at: www.tigerbalmtrail.com.

SURIN ELEPHANT ROUND-UP November 16-19

The annual Surin Elephant Round-Up & Elephant Show is one of the most exciting spectacles in Thailand. Surin Province, in the Northeast, is known as the “province of elephants”, and the people living here are known for their skills in rounding up wild elephants, and training them. More than 100 elephants take part in the festival, which begins with a wonderful pachyderm parade through the streets, and the infamous ‘Elephant Breakfast’. The performances include elephants displaying their grace, strength, and intelligence in games of soccer, log-carrying, and tug-of-war, as well as a dramatic mock battle.

MONKEY BUFFET FESTIVAL November 26

Visitors to Lopburi province this month can witness the Monkey Buffet Festival, an event honouring the thousands of monkeys living in Lopburi. These Macaque monkeys are offered a buffet of scrumptious fruits and sweets—and even ice cream—all arranged on a large communal table where the public can watch them gorge. Local people regard it as a way of thanking the playful primates for the prosperity they bring to the town, as the Phra Prang Sam Yod (the ‘Monkey Temple’) is a major tourist attraction here. This simian celebration is held annually during the last weekend of November. 70 | NOV EM BER 2017

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The Lacquer Pavilion (ผนัง) Most of scholars dare the pavilion back to the late Ayutthaya period, that is the 17th-18th century. Originally there were two separate pavilions in the compound of the Ban kling Monastery in Ayutthaya. They were acquired, with suitable compensations, brought to Suan Pakkad Palace and reassembled as one building by Prince Chumbhot as a gift to his wife on her fiftieth birthday in 1959. The Lacquer Pavilion is unique. Its walls are covered with beautiful floral carving, depicting in gold and black lacquer scenes from the life of Lord Buddha on the upper level and from the Ramayana, the Indian mythology, on the lower level.

House 6 (หัวโขน) This building houses the Khon Museum. Khon is a masked dance, telling stories from the Ramayana, the Indian epic. The collection displays several art forms related to the traditional dance, ranging from full-sized mask of the main heroes and villains in these stories, to puppets, clay figurines and a model battle.

352-354 Sri Ayudhaya Rd., Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400 THAILAND T. 02 246 1775-6 ext. 229 F. 02 247 2079, 02 245 6369 E. public@suanpakkad.com

www.suanpakkad.com Museum hours: Open Daily 9am-4pm BTS Phaya Thai (exit 4)

ART

| ART & CULTURE

Illusions of Liberty A clever clash of cultures sees Thai superheroes cast into iconic Western motifs

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orn in 1971, in Samut Prakhan province (just south of Bangkok), JIRAPAT TATSANASOMBOON first started to paint during his childhood. His first drawing, at age four, was of Hanuman, a mythic Thai figure of legend. He subsequently developed a passion for superheroes, influenced also by the icons he could see on many posters and commercials—as his father ran an advertising billboard company. Now a professional artist, and in 2014 dubbed one of the ‘100 Painters For Tomorrow’ by the renowned London-based art publishing house Thames & Hudson, this current solo exhibition explores the concept of “liberty”, a theme that has always been a guideline in the artist’s work. Jirapat has been confronting and juxtaposing—for the last 20 years—modern Western icons with the most representative and traditional figures of Thai culture, namely the characters of the Ramakien. He kept this iconography despite the polemics in Thailand. His quest for liberty has nowadays moved from a collective to a more individual perspective, thus being more universal, addressing more directly the problems of social inequalities and democracy, freedom of expression, and morality in politics. In this solo show he will exhibit 22 never before shown paintings—all created in his very recognizable iconographic style, with bright colours, references to pop-art, and a transposition of Thai traditional figures into iconic Western visuals (and vice versa). One of the highlights of this exhibition are nine large portraits derived from archetypes of the Ramakien, depicting human behaviour in a contemporary socio-political context: power abuse, anger, lust, greed, delusion, but also loyalty. In a clear reference to Andy Warhol’s camouflaged self-portraits, Jirapat is taking a new look at traditional Khon masks, while still preserving their original significance. ILLUSIONS OF LIBERTY runs from NOVEMBER 22–DECEMBER 31 at YENAKART VILLA (69 Soi Prasat Suk). Viewing hours are Wed-Fri 2-7pm, Sat 11am-7pm. For more information, call 098 253 9356. www.yenakartvilla.com

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

NOVEMBER 5-DECEMBER 10 Garden of God

Duke Contemporary Art Space 1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Viewing hours: Daily, 11am-midnight Tel: 094 647 8888 | www.facebook.com/duke.gaysorn

Artist Kriangkrai Kongkhanan presents viewers with an imaginative journey into the garden in a secret land that is the centre of Gods that human beings worship as symbols of prosperity, stability, happiness, and success in life. Images of such gods and auspicious symbols represent certain needs in human minds, which form emotions. However, this garden also hides the lust and wants of human beings, with images of a hell that is the place for the dark spirits of human beings—reflected through the deformed shapes that act as mirrors and reflect the true images of human beings.

NOVEMBER 6-DECEMBER 3 Silent Ravage

Subhashok The Arts Centre (SAC) Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10am-5:30pm, Sun, 12pm-6pm Tel: 02 662 0299 | www.facebook.com/sacbangkok

Bangkok based artist Aof Smith has cultivated a following among collectors in Thailand. Greatly influenced by American pop-surrealism, he maintains the dream-scape of the surrealists and the celebration of the “shallow” world often associated with pop art. His use of colours brings forward vivid and full-flavoured visuals that add dimensions and volume to the layers of characters in his works. Although deceptively cute and playful, this particular series of works on display raises the debate about animal cruelty—especially to one’s own pets. In Thailand, for example, people breed fighting fish and roosters to fight one another in blood sports.

NOVEMBER 11-DECEMBER 12 The Shape of Colour Future Factory Bangkok

1077/48 Phahonyothin Rd. Viewing hours: Daily, 11am-10pm Tel: 098 253 9356 | www.facebook.com/futurefactorybkk

Featuring a spectrum of vibrant abstract-surreal paintings, drawings, prints, wall hanging sculptures, and digital art, this solo exhibition by Thai-Indian artist Karma Sirikogar truly examines the “shape of colour”. The works presented here are a culmination of three years of her experimental developments in abstract-surrealism. Her personal visual language is inspired by female anatomy, music, organic forms, geometric urban structures, and the colours of the Indian Vedic Chakra system. Using mixed media techniques, her lines dance across linen canvas and bamboo paper, intertwining in complex ways. 74 | N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 7

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

UNTIL NOVEMBER 30 Between Intimacy and Estrangement H Gallery

201, Sathorn Soi 12 Viewing hours: Daily, 10am-6pm, Tue by appointment Tel: 085 021 5508 | www.lalanta.com

British-born artist Will Klose has been based in Thailand for over a decade, and currently works out of a studio on the edge of the city of Chiang Mai. The artist’s practice of meticulously painted scenes carefully shifts around a core preoccupation with the subtle conflicts between intimacy and estrangement. Spaces of domesticity are rendered in view of urban density, and creeping psychological dramas are evoked by both the presence and sense of absence of human figures. In this exhibit there’s a deliberated framing of the immediate space of an individual through limited expanses and an aura of the wistful.

UNTIL DECEMBER 24 Splashed

Nova Contemporary Soi Mahadlek-Luang 3, Rajdamri Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 11am-7pm Tel: 090 910 6863 | www.novacontemporary.com

Artist Kawita Vatanajyankur creates luminous and colourful works that offer a powerful examination of the psychological, social, and cultural ways of viewing and valuing the continuing challenges of women’s everyday labour. In her video performances, Vatanajyankur undertakes physical experiments that playfully, and often painfully, test her body’s limits—a challenge that is both unavoidably compelling and uncomfortable to watch. This solo exhibition marks the first time that this body of work will be seen by the general public.

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NOV EM BER 2017 | 75

ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

Gated Community

The vestiges of a system of city walls and fortifications is on display at the Pipit Bang Lamphu District Museum By Luc Citrinot

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he Kuru Sapha Printing House on Phra Sumen Road is an elegant building constructed in Bangkok Art Deco style. The building was the Kingdom’s first printing school, and then later a printing house. Now, however, the restored complex is home to the Pipit Bang Lamphu District Museum. The place could also easily be renamed the ‘Wall Museum’ as it tells all about Bangkok city fortifications. In the space of three rooms, all with interactive screens, there is actually a lot to discover about the fortification system which used to surround Bangkok for over a century. The idea for constructing a wall came first from King Thaksin who looked to the safety and the protection of the inhabitants in the newly created capital. Thonburi had already been surrounded by a city wall and the King, who elected to make his new capital on Rattanakosin Island, mulled over the same idea of protecting his residence. In 1773, the construction of the city wall started under direct supervision of King Rama I. Labourers were recruited from Laos—especially from Vientiane—to come into the new capital. The first part of the wall had a length of 7.2 km, running along the Chao Phraya River and the newly created canals. The wall height was 3.6 metres and had a width of 2.7 metres. The King asked to have city gates to let people in and out. There were a total of 63 doors, 16 being main gates. The exhibition tells the fascinating story of some the former gates. The Pratu Phee was, for example, known as

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the “Ghost Gate”—the compulsory passage to exit the city for the unfortunates who died from cholera. However, the most beautiful gate, Pratu Sam Yod, was marked by three arches surmounted by pinnacles. Most of the city gates were destroyed, especially during the reigns of Rama V and Rama VI as the city expanded and new roads had to be constructed to accommodate the increasing flow of carriages and public transport. Forts had a similar fate, as shown by the exhibition. An old map of Bangkok shows that the city once had up to 14 forts to protect citizens. Only three survive to this day, and Phra Sumen, located next to the museum, is the best preserved with its perfect octagonal shape. Fort Mahakan is another well-preserved relic, and soon it will be in the midst of a soon-to-be created public park. And, last but not least, there’s Fort Wichai, the oldest surviving fortress in the Bangkok Metropolitan Area. Built as an outpost to defend Ayutthaya, the structure was commissioned by King Narai in 1688 and given over to French engineers. Today it is part of the Royal Navy Headquarters, and is not open to the public.

Pipit Bang Lamphu District Museum Phra Sumen Rd. Open: Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm Tel: 02 281 9828

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ART & CULTURE | art festival

Movers and Shakers

The upcoming International Dance Festival presents an exciting range of dances, workshops, and lectures By Lekha Shankar

Nik Zuk Dance Co.

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ow in its 17th year, the popular International Dance Festival, organized by the Friends of the Arts Foundation, remains the best-known festival for contemporary dance in Bangkok. The shows this year— which run from November 9th to December 3rd—include dance-troupes from Portugal, Spain, and Turkey, as well as a brilliant dance-film from Israel, Bollywood sessions, an important charity dinner, and an exciting range of lectures, master-classes, and workshops. The mastermind behind the festival is Varoom Pachamama, co-founder of the Friends of the Arts Foundation. She studied ballet in London’s famed Royal School of Ballet, and was the first professional ballerina from Thailand to dance with the international dance company abroad. She started a school—called Dance Centre—more than three decades back, which became hugely popular as she taught both classical and contemporary dance forms there. In fact, she produced numerous students who today run more than 20 schools of their own. “Dance is education through movement,” says Vararom, and in order to spread this “education” to as 78 | NOV EM BER 2017

many segments of students as possible, she has—apart from choreographing many dance dramas herself—held dance programmes, classes, and workshops for numerous foundations for underprivileged children. All these dance performances, choreography sessions, workshops, and lectures form the basis of her annual International Dance Festival, which first started 17 years back to celebrate ‘World Dance Day.’ Thus, this year’s festival has live performances by top dance groups from abroad, followed by lectures and workshops given by the foreign choreographers to a wide range of dance-students. There are also varied unique venues for the performances. After all, Vararom was the one who held the International Dance Festival for a decade in the open-air Benchasiri Park. She has also held performances in shopping malls, hospitals, and various non-traditional venues. The grand opening event at this year’s festival is on November 9th, and will be held on the open-air lawns of the Portuguese Ambassador’s heritage mansion. This charity event—a gourmet, sit-down dinner, followed by a silent auction of artefacts donated by well-known Thai bangkok101.com

arts festival | ART & CULTURE

Izmir State Opera & Ballet

Olga Roritz Dance Company

personalities—aims to raise funds for the training of at least 20 underprivileged youth in dance. The highlight of the evening will be a performance by the famed Olga Roriz Dance Company from Portugal, whose 15-member troupe will be enacting Igor Stravinsky’s memorable Rites of Spring. In keeping with Vararom’s sustained efforts to introduce Thai talents on the global stage, 10 talented Thai dancers will partake in the show alongside the world-famous Portuguese dance troupe. In addition, Olga Roriz, the founder of the company, will hold a two-week workshop and rehearsal with Thai dance students before the gala fund raiser evening. The official opening party takes place on November 14th at the lush Helix Garden of the EmQuartier Mall, where the Nik Zuk Dance Co. from Spain will perform. The group is noted for their vibrant and varied dance styles, including break-dancing, dervish spins, and circus acts. They will be accompanied by a band of sensational musicians who will spin out a scintillating mixture of folk, country, and blues music. The artistic director of the troupe will also hold a contemporary dance workshop for Thai students the day after the show. The Izmir State Opera & Ballet are the next dance group to perform at the festival, at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) on November 24th and 25th. They will enact a marvelous modern ballet The Colour of Dance, which Turkish Ambassador H.E. Ms Evren Dağdelen Akgun describes as, “A feast to the soul, while eternal in its celebration of dance and life”. This dance programme will be followed (for the next four days) by a master-class, as well as ballet workshops for different age-groups, by the ballet master of the group, Murat Acemoglu.

Then, on November 26th at the BACC, by two totally diverse dance groups—the Opals Dance Company from Italy, and Anthony Hutchinson & Friend, from Japan—perform on a double bill. The former will enact their experimental and exciting version of Swan Lake, called Once Upon a Time-A Swan Lake, and the latter will enact their individualistic experimental show called Malignant Temperaments. Both the dance groups will also hold workshops for Thai dance students, after the show (Anthony Hutchinson’s duo will hold a hip-hop workshop). A rather unique show at this year’s fest will be the screening of a film from Israel, on the life of Had Naharin, one of their most individualistic and renowned choreographers, and Artistic Director of the well-known Bathsheba Dance Company. The film, called Mr. Gaga, will be shown at the BACC on November 28th. This riveting documentary, made over a period of eight years by filmmaker Tomer Heyman, traces the personal and professional life of this charismatic artisté, who created waves both in Israel and New York. The screening will be followed by a discussion with well-known Thai film professionals. There will also be a Showcase of the Works of Young Thai Choreographers, which is an important feature of the festival. In fact, Vararom is proud that many Thai choreographers have been ‘discovered’ at this festival, and have gone on to perform abroad with many foreign dance troupes worldwide. For details of festival events, and accompanying workshops, check out the official website at www.fotaf.org. Tickets: www.ticketmelon.com

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ART & CULTURE | arts festival

Kafka 2017

Highlights of the 2nd Edition of the Unfolding Kafka Festival By Benjamin Tardif and Bruce Scott

Hiroaki Umeda

C

Roni Chadash

zech-born author Franz Kafka (1883-1924) combines, in a seemingly natural and rational way, obscure and surreal scenarios with the real world. To this day a fascination persists for this writer’s bleak world view, his mysterious characters, and his unique writing style, all of which provide modern day artists plenty of room for interpretation. The 2017 Unfolding Kafka Festival provides a platform for contemporary artists in Thailand, and this year's festival performances and installations will be presented in Bangkok from November 3rd to the 22nd at various locations citywide, and in Chiang Mai from November 24th to 25th at the MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum. The participating artists are out to challenge Thai audiences to explore other interpretations of Kafka’s works through both abstract and conceptual art. It's conceived with a multidisciplinary approach, in which the festival poses the question of how choreography, physical movements, installations, sculpture, and visual art interact to address animalism, gender and identity, and ultimately the folding and unfolding material or bodies. In collaboration with the Goethe-Institut Thailand, the festival also offers a wide variety of exhibitions and activities for those interested in visual art, graphic design and movies. Highlights include the immersive media and sound performance experience by the internationally acclaimed Japanese artist Hiroaki Umeda, who will perform his Holistic Strata for two nights (the 20th and 21st) at the Sodsai Pantoomkomol Center for Dramatic

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Be Claude Arts, Chulalongkorn University. On the same two nights— presented as a double bill—the young and talented Israeli solo artist Roni Chadash will present a piece entitled Goofy, in which audiences will be amazed by the brilliant way the artist uses her physicality without allowing the audience to see her head throughout the whole piece. From the 3rd to the 12th, Bangkok CityCity Gallery will host Berlin-based Japanese visual artist Yoko Seyama, who will present—for the first time in Southeast Asia—her art installation Saiyah #2.3, where light folds and unfolds to continuously modify the surrounding space in various hues of colours. Meanwhile, on the 7th and 8th, at the Goethe Institut, Stefan Droessler, the Head of the Filmmuseum Muenchen, will give a lecture which will immerse attendees in Kafka’s world and reality through excerpts of rare selected reconditioned silent films, excerpts of his diaries, pictures from the places he lived in, and cinemas he visited. The Goethe Institut will also be staging an art exhibition entitled K: KafKa in KomiKs, which presents Kafka’s dark universe through graphic artworks. Finally, there are several festival events being staged at The Rose Hotel, including Be Claude, in which a male street artist explores the themes of gender and identity by taking on a feminine persona in an absurd and funny, but nonetheless philosophical and relevant manner—a subject that will resonate with cosmopolitan Bangkokians. A full festival pass is just B1,650. For more information, and a more detailed schedule of the festival events, visit: www.unfoldingkafkafestival.com. bangkok101.com

music makers | ART & CULTURE

All is in Wonder-land

Wonderfruit is Thailand’s game-changing celebration of music, art, and ideas

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By Rianka Mohan

eturning to The Fields at Siam Country Club in Pattaya for its fourth annual outing this December, Wonderfruit is variously described as: one of Asia’s biggest music festivals; a food fiesta; a salute to cuttingedge art and design; an all-out rager; a smashing wellness retreat; or an offbeat family getaway (depending on whom you ask). And that suits its founder and organizer, Pranitan ‘Pete’ Phornprapha, just fine. Festival attendees, termed ‘Wonderers’, may come for myriad reasons, but Pete’s main aim for the four-day outing is to build awareness around sustainability. “Today, we’re inundated with so much information on environmental issues that it can cause even the bestintentioned person to feel stuck on how to proceed,” he says. “By infusing innovative ideas into familiar themes like music, art, and fashion, we hope to show how living with a positive impact on our surroundings can actually be fun and easy.” The ambitious project includes building sensational structures and stages that use renewable and recycled materials, pledging a plastics-free place, and maintaining onsite farming and water filtration systems to provide free water, biodegradable cups and bottles—all of which makes Wonderfruit a net carbonpositive event. But how, I ask, as my skeptical mind conjures up the image of a trash-strewn landscape post party; a party attended by 10,000 people not just from Thailand but the world over! While Pete and his team agree that the event itself isn’t 100 percent emission-free, they spend significant time and effort, even hiring a third party consultant, to accurately determine the festival’s overall carbon footprint and work to minimize and offset it, whether it’s investing in a bioreserve in Borneo, or planting trees in Myanmar through an innovative cryptocurrency developed in conjunction with Swiss fintech company Lykke. It’s esoteric stuff, and I can’t pretend I understand it all, but Wonderfruit promises plenty of workshops for even laymen like me to be educated and, better yet, engaged. However, the mind enriching stuff is subtly folded into the layer cake, and the immediate attraction is, of course, the cream that lures the cats—Wonderfruit’s fantastic lineup of live music. Pete and his partner, Montonn ‘Jay’ Jira, take this to another level and offer not a pop music bangkok101.com

platform, but rather a bona fide base for discovering phenomenal global acts that fly just shy of the mainstream radar. Performers such as singer-songwriter Izzy Bizu, and indie rock band Wild Beasts come to mind, not to mention the much anticipated hip hop artist Roots Manuva and veteran techno DJ Richie Hawtin, among others. Awardwinning British sensations Rudimental and Lianne La Havas are acts that have graced the Wonderfruit stage in prior years, and while some names on the upcoming roster are unfamiliar to me, they’re fast becoming my playlist favourites. Wonderfruit is the place to discover new music, an idea furthered by the fantastic Intermission project run by Howie B—legendary producer to the likes of U2 and Björk—who auditions and develops bands from Thailand and gives them a platform in between the bigger names. Another of the festival’s pillars is culinary, and this year sees the return of crowd favourites Morimoto and Straight Otta Thonglor, with a curated Lianne range of celebrity chefs and street food La Havas vendors also holding court. Children are also welcome to attend Wonderfruit and ‘Camp Wonder’ is their dedicated venue, which by deliberate design is kept separate from higher octane offerings like the late night party pavilion ‘The Quarry’, designed by renowned Marvel artist Adam Pollina. This unique celebration of life with its pioneering pursuits takes place from December 14th to 17th, so pack your fruit-themed fashions, book a tent or an RV, and join the party that promises to overhaul the planet, one Wonderer at a time. www.wonderfruitfestival.com

NOVEMBER BEATS Rockademy takes it up a notch this month with visiting American R&B/pop-soul singer-songwriter JMSN who will perform live from his latest album Whatever Makes You Happy on November 11th. JMSN (real name: Christian Berishaj) has collaborated with the likes of Kendrick Lamar and Kaytranada, among others, and is taking the music industry by storm with his unexpected raw and soulful sound. His show is not to be missed. www.ticketmelon.com/event/jmsnbkk

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Art & Culture

Photo by Burhan Ozbilici, The Associated Press

Photo Feature

Until November 11, 2017 House of Lucie: Center for Photography Ekkamai Soi 8, Sukhumvit Soi 63 www.facebook.com/houseoflucie

WORLD PRESS PHOTO CONTEST 2017 Exhibition of this year’s winners Each year the World Press Photo Contest awards photographers by selecting the best images from the past year of visual journalism. The 2017 contest, the 60th edition of this annual event, drew entries from around the world, with 5,034 photographers from 125 countries, submitting 80,408 images. The jury gave prizes—in eight categories—to a total of 45 photographers from 25 countries. The jury selected an image by Turkish photographer Burhan Ozbilici—a staff photographer for The Associated Press, based in Istanbul—as the World Press Photo of the Year, and it also won first prize in the Spot News Stories category. The unforgettable image (left) shows how Mevlüt Mert Altıntaş, a 22-year-old off-duty police officer, assassinated the Russian ambassador to Turkey, Andrey Karlov, at an art exhibition in Ankara, Turkey, on December 19th, 2016. But there are many more arresting images in this exhibition, as a total of 150 extraordinary photographs will be on display. The eight categories include Contemporary Issues, Daily Life, General News, Long-Term Projects, Nature, People, Sports, and Spot News. The House of Lucie is open from 11am to 6pm, Tuesday to Friday, and from 12pm to 5pm on Saturdays. Admission is free.

VADIM GHIRDA (The Associated Press) 2nd Prize, Singles • Category: Contemporary Issues Refugees cross the Mala Reka river, near the Greek border town of Idomeni.

AMBER BRACKEN (Buzzfeed News) 1st Prize, Stories Category: Contemporary Issues People carry an American and a Mohawk Warrior Society flag at a protest camp against the Dakota Access Pipeline, in Cannon Ball, North Dakota, USA.

AMBER BRACKEN (Buzzfeed News) 1st Prize, Stories Category: Contemporary Issues A man waters his horse, an animal central to Sioux culture. The Standing Rock Sioux people opposed the Dakota Access Pipeline (DAPL), fearing water contamination and damage to sacred tribal sites.

PETER BAUZA 3rd Prize, Stories Category: Contemporary Issues Some 300 families live in a neighborhood in Campo Grande, in the Western zone of Rio de Janeiro, squatting in derelict apartment blocks: the remnants of a failed middle-class housing development of 30 years ago.

PAULA BRONSTEIN (Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting/ Getty Images Reportage) 1st Prize, Singles Category: Daily Life A woman holds her nephew who was injured in a bomb blast that killed his sister, in Kabul, Afghanistan. Although the 2001-2014 Afghan War has formally ended, conflict continues in the country.

TOMÁS MUNITA (The New York Times) 1st Prize, Stories Category: Daily Life Fidel Castro’s funeral procession passes through Santa Clara, in central Cuba. The former president and leader of the nation’s Communist revolution died on November 26th, 2016, and mourning was fervent and public across the country.

JONATHAN BACHMAN (Reuters) 1st Prize, Singles Category: Contemporary Issues Iesha Evans (27) stands her ground at a rally protesting police violence against black men, outside the Baton Rouge Police Department in Louisiana, USA, on July 9th. Evans had travelled to Baton Rouge to protest the death of Alton Sterling.

NOEL CELIS (Agence France-Presse) 3rd Prize, Singles Category: General News Prisoners sleep on a staircase inside the overcrowded Quezon City Jail, in Manila. Jail populations in the Philippines rose sharply after newly inaugurated President Rodrigo Duterte announced an all-out war on drugs.

MATHIEU WILLCOCKS (MOAS) 3rd Prize, Stories Category: Spot News Libyan fishermen throw a life jacket to a boat of refugees. Conflict, persecution, political instability and poverty in parts of Africa and the Middle East continued to compel people to make dangerous sea crossings to seek a better life in Europe.

HOSSEIN FATEMI (Panos Pictures) 2nd Prize Category: Long-Term Projects In Iran, female members of the Basij militia's Ashura putting their guns away after a ceremony. The militia took part in a military parade to mark national Basij week at a Revolutionary Guards military base.

MARKUS JOKELA (Helsingin Sanomat) 3rd Prize Category: Long-Term Projects In the town of Table Rock, Nebraska (named for a unique rock formation near the Nemaha River), Bob and Frances Blecha watch as their house is torn down. Lightning set fire to it in the summer of 2012.

FRANCIS PÉREZ First Prize, Singles Category: Nature A loggerhead sea turtle swims entangled in abandoned fishing gear, off the coast of Tenerife, Canary Islands, in the northeast Atlantic Ocean.

BRENT STIRTON (Getty Images Reportage for National Geographic) 1st Prize, Stories Category: Nature A black rhino, poached for its horn, is found dead at Hluhluwe Umfolozi Game Reserve, South Africa. Demand in Asia for rhino horn, traditionally valued for its medicinal properties, is rising steeply.

AMI VITALE (National Geographic) 2nd Prize, Stories Category: Nature Wu Gang mates with Ji Ni as a keeper looks on, at the Bifengxia panda base, Sichuan China. The bears’ attempt to breed was unsuccessful.

TOM JENKINS (The Guardian) 1st Prize, Singles Category: Sports Jockey Nina Carberry flies off her horse Sir Des Champs (left) as they fall at The Chair fence during the Grand National steeplechase, at Aintree Racecourse, Liverpool (UK). None of the horses or jockeys involved was injured.

KAI OLIVER (Reuters) 3rd Prize, Singles Category: Sports Usain Bolt smiles as he looks back while winning the 100-meter semifinal race at the Summer Olympics in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, on 14 August. He finished the race in 9.86 seconds.

Chef Antimo Merone’s Hokkaido crab with Oscietra caviar

| FOOD & DRINK

AROY michelin from macau

This month S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, as part of their ongoing Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef Series, present the cuisine of Macau’s 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana at ROSSINI’S, the acclaimed Italian restaurant at the SHERATON GRANDE SUKHUMVIT (250 Sukhumvit Rd). The dinners will be presided over by Executive Chef ANTIMO MERONE, whose background includes a number of Michelin-rated restaurants and, for the past three years, working alongside Chef Umberto Bombana. The six-course wine dinner on November 3rd, priced at B5,200++, features wine pairings—mainly from Allegrini Winery—while dinner on the 4th is a set menu (with or without wine pairings). Menu highlights include: Hokkaido crab with Oscietra caviar; Tortellini filled with veal ragout and Alba white truffle; M9 grade sirloin prepared with charred artichoke; and a four-textured tiramisu for dessert. For reservations call 02 649 8364, or email dining.sgs@luxurycollection.com. www.finedininglovers.com

fine dining lovers guest chef series heads south S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna’s Fine Dining Lovers Guest Chef Series presents one of Thailand’s most talented young chefs, THITID ‘TON’ TASSANAKAJOHN, preparing the cuisine of his restaurant LE DU (ranked number 37 on the 2017 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list) at Phuket’s renowned farm-to-table restaurant PRU, located at the exquisite TRISARA beachfront resort. For two nights only—November 17th and 18th—Chef Ton will prepare such delicacies as: poached oyster in Thai rice wine and green mango; pickled sea bass served with Chiang Mai avocado; grilled local crayfish with chu-chee curry; river prawn from Songkra Lake with Rayong-made shrimp paste and mountain rice; and 30-day dry-aged beef with charred eggplant. The price per person is B2,900++(B4,900++ with specially selected wines pairings). www.trisara.com

truffle-mania New to this city’s incredible array of Italian eateries is TRUFFLES BAR & RISTORANTE (12/3 Soi Sainamthip, Sukhumvit Soi 22). Needless to say, truffles are the defining factor here—even the creamy colours of the intimate interior are reminiscent of these fabulous fungi—and they appear not only in the authentic Italian pasta and pizza dishes, but also in the signature Tartufo dessert (alongside dark chocolate ice cream). Diners can also kick back with a wide range of wines, champagnes, cocktails, and mixed drinks, or wind down with a delicious Italian coffee. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, and a live band performs Monday to Saturday from 9:30pm to 1:30am. www.trufflesbkk.com

new digs for an old favourite If you love smokehouse ribs—done just right—then no doubt you’re a fan of THE SMOKIN’ PUG, Surawong Road’s perpetually packed BBQ restaurant. However, as of the first of this month the restaurant proprietors Dan and Dana Garber have left their cozy shophouse venue and moved operations to Langsuan Road, in a space three times as big. The new locale will be offering the same menu as the old location, plus a few new signature dishes as well. And if you’re wondering what will become of the Surawong venue, it’s being turned into a cocktail bar (run by a different team). www.smokinpugbbq.com

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FOOD & DRINK | thanksgiving meal deals

The House on Sathorn’s Festive Turkey Takeaway Set

W Bangkok hotel | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 | www.wbangkok.com Too busy to cook a full Thanksgiving Day festive meal? Then take advantage of The House on Sathorn’s Festive Turkey Dinner Takeaway Set, available from November 23-24, and again for Christmas on December 23-25. Let Chef Fatih and his skillful team create a wonderful festive dinner for you and all your loved ones, featuring a mouthwatering traditional roasted turkey along with all the fixings. The entire meal is priced at B9,900++ per set. Orders can be picked up at The House on Sathorn and customers are advised to order a minimum of two days prior to pick up.

Celebrate Your Thanksgiving at Tables Grill

Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok | 494 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com There’s no better way to celebrate Thanksgiving than with family and friends. This year, on Thursday November 23, 2017, the team at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok hotel invite you to come and experience Table Grill’s ‘Carte Blanche’, a specially designed daily rotating five-course dinner menu drawing on seasonal ingredients and fresh produce of the day—all exquisitely prepared by Chef Kevin Kristensen. This ultimate dining experience features succulent prime cuts of meat, premium seafood, and innovative Western fare. The dinner runs form 6pm till 10:30pm, and is priced at B2,700++ per person.

Thanksgiving Dinner Buffet at the Royal Orchid Sheraton

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers | 2 Charoen Krung Rd. Tel: 02 266 9214 | www.royalorchidsheraton.com The invitation goes out to gather with friends and family in celebrating Thanksgiving Day this year on Thursday, November 23, 2017 at Feast restaurant at the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers. Join in on a festive meal with the traditional dishes including roasted turkey with celery sausage stuffing, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie, and apple pie with raisin cinnamon—among the usual buffet offerings. This dinner buffet is available from 6pm till 10pm, and is priced at only B1,090++ per person (halfprice for children between 10 and 12 years old).

Thanksgiving Celebrations at Brasserie Europa

Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok | 991/9 Rama I Rd. Tel: 02 162 9000 | www.kempinski.com Brasserie Europa invites you to celebrate Thanksgiving with a traditional dinner on Thursday November 23, 2017. This fabulous feast features slow-cooked butterball turkey with traditional stuffing and gravy, roasted USA prime rib, honey glazed ham with mustard, and much more. The buffet also includes a fabulous ‘Seafood on Ice’ display, while the extravagant dessert station tempts with pumpkin pie, and rhubarb clafoutis, The dinner is priced at B3,000++ with free-flow alcoholic beverages, B1,900++ for dinner only, and B950++ per child (aged 6 to 12 years).

Surf & Turf Weekends at Romsai at Banyan Tree

Banyan Tree Bangkok | 21/100 South Sathon Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 | www.banyantree.com From now until the end of November, stop in at Romsai, at the Banyan Tree Bangkok hotel, for a supreme dining experience featuring the very best from farm and sea. Catch the high-tide of ocean delights including tiger prawns, razor clams, Boston lobster, and US scallops, or tuck into some prime rib roast, bourbon BBQ beef ribs, crispy pork belly, or whole roasted rack of lamb. Priced at B1,900++ per person for the Weekend Brunch, B1,800++ per person for dinner Friday and Saturday, B1,500++ per person for dinner Monday to Thursday, and B1,200++ per person for lunch.

Limited Time Family Sharing Menu at Up & Above

The Okura Prestige Bangkok | 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com Up & Above restaurant presents family style dishes perfect for sharing with loved ones. Stars of the show include: a cheese fondue served with sourdough bread, vegetable crudités, and Paris ham; an Asian steamed seafood basket served with spicy chili sauce, soya bean sauce and wasabi mayonnaise; and baked or steamed whole seabass served with spicy chili sauce, soya bean sauce, and ginger sauce. The restaurant also offers an updated à la carte menu with a new selection of popular international, Thai, and Japanese dishes. The Family Sharing Menu is available until November 15th and is priced at B520++.

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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK

Bunker

Relying on great ingredients rather than dining table showmanship

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hen Bunker was still in the planning stages two years ago, all I knew was that Eat Me’s famed head chef Tim Butler was involved, and that he and his collaborators were converting a multi-storied wreck tucked away at the end of Sathorn Soi 12. In a bold move, they brought in chef Arnold Marcella—like Tim Butler, a New Yorker who trained in Michelin-starred eateries—to create the dining concept. Meanwhile designer Kelly Wheatley of Lump Company kitted out the angled cement rooms with his signature minimal interior architecture and original furniture designs of recycled wood and steel, and vintage textiles. Besides installing a large bar downstairs, the team employed the considerable talents of Andreas Pergher, an American sommelier whose Argentine father immersed him in wine-drinking culture of Mendoza from an early age. I enjoyed the impressive results of their efforts early in Bunker’s opening phase last year: simple, great-tasting bangkok101.com

dishes with a few sly twists but no forced mystery, a cuisine that relies on great ingredients handled extremely well rather than dining table showmanship. Being more of a Sathorn explorer than a Sukuhumvit zombie, I expected to become a regular but it wasn’t until the menu was extensively revised two months ago that I made it back. Pergher arranged a wine pairing of six vintages, including an opening glass of Tattinger Champagne Brut NV to go with a dish of madai snapper in red kombucha—a very fine start. Scallops with coconut and coriander followed, mated with a nice, light 2014 Ca del Frati I Frati (Italy). The next dish, simply called ‘Locally Grown’, was the first mind-blower of the evening. Carefully composed of 30 different seasonal roots and vegetables acquired through local markets, it felt like something I should be eating in a forest meadow, surrounded by a circle of elves smiling with approval. “We have our own forager, a woman named Chin who also works for Chili Paste food tours, and she’s

always bringing us great new stuff,” says Marcella. At this point the dining experience morphed into a polyphonic thrill of sensually rendered familiar flavours, well-selected wines, and animated conversation. This is Bunker doing what it does best: seducing rather than challenging; engaging rather than stupefying; and bringing otherwise “serious eaters” together for a mutual buzz. One à la carte classic still on the menu (but, according to Marcella, slightly reformulated) is Foie Gras Dumplings, with mushrooms, garlic froth, and scallions. Foie gras is often a bit rich for my tastes, but wrapping it in a dumpling counter-balances the fatty sweetness in a Soho-meetsChinatown kind of way. And with it came the most interesting wine of the evening, a 2015 Rogue Vines ‘Jamon Jamon’ Orange (Chile). Skipping ahead to the final plates, we’re smiling happily at the first forkstab of a New York strip of Australian Wagyu in sunchoke purée and malted coffee. Pergher slams it home with a nice fat 2014 Achaval Ferrer Malbec (Argentina). We finish with three amazing desserts from resident American pastry chef Elle Cowan. My overwhelming favourite, Banana Rum Baba, bolsters the classic French-style rum-soaked cake with candied puffed barley, banana toffee ice cream, and caramelized bananas. It feels to me like the Bunker kitchen crew is just hitting its stride. I’ve already been back for a New Yorkstyle ‘Little Italy’ feast, and await other interesting turns in their strange and beautiful American highway. by Joe Cummings/CPA Media

Bunker

118/2 Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6 pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com NOV EM BER 2017 | 91

FOOD & DRINK | special report

The Master of Mugaritz Renowned Spanish Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz comes to Bangkok

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or nearly two decades, Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz (above left) has been the creative force behind the marvelous foodie mecca of Mugaritz. The restaurant, in the hills outside of San Sebastian in Spain’s Basque Country, holds two Michelin stars and is currently number nine on the prestigious World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Among his accolades Chef Andoni has twice received the coveted ‘Chef’s Choice Award’, bestowed upon him by fellow World’s 50 Best chefs in 2006 and 2012. Chef Andoni’s early culinary career included work at no less than Catalonia’s legendary El Bulli, the long-time home of Chef Ferran Adrià. In the years since, along with establishing Mugaritz he’s also authored or contributed to more than 20 books on cookery. And, for the first time ever, Chef Andoni brings his culinary creativity to Bangkok for two nights only— December 8th and 9th—for a series of dinners hosted by acclaimed Chef Fatih Tutak, Director of Culinary at The House on Sathorn (W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd). The capricious chef employs a “techno-emotional” approach—as he calls it—to his cuisine, and uses advanced food technologies to not only produce novel dining pleasure, but likewise to evoke an emotional effect for all guests, ensuring a great experience and complete enjoyment of his gastronomy. Among the sometimes mysteriously and whimsically named dishes Chef Andoni will be preparing at The House on Sathorn

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are: Iberico Ham 2 Montaneras Arturo Sanchez with Acorns and Oaktree Leaves; An Oyster’s Frozen Kiss; 100% Lobster; A Few Minutes for Recreation… The Game at the Table; Egg Yolks Tucked in with a Sea Urchin Blanket; and Whiskey Pie. Chef Fatih, meanwhile, will be on hand bringing his own expertise to the proceedings. He arrived at The House on Sathorn after creating a unique dining experience at The Bellbrook Hong Kong, recognized by the Hong Kong-Macau Michelin Guide 2015. Other stints include the world-renowned restaurant NOMA in Copenhagen, and the 3-Michelin-starred Nihonryori Ryugin in Tokyo. More recently, under his watchful eye, The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn was ranked as one of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants (2017). The elaborate 13-course dinners will begin at 7:30pm and are priced at B11,500++ per person (add B2,500++ per person for the carefully curated wine pairing package). Very limited seats are available and full prepayment is required. This event is being co-presented by the S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna Fine Dining Lovers guest chef series, The House on Sathorn, and Mugaritz restaurant. NOTE: In addition to the two gourmet dinners, a very special Masterclass Luncheon with Chef Andoni will take place on December 7th. For more information visit: www.thehouseonsathorn.com/mugaritz bangkok101.com

STORY SPIRIT

“Enigma” The “Enigma” is one of Ruen Urai’s new signature cocktails, many of which are inspired by Thai novels and literature, and their colourful characters. Infused with violet-hued butterfly pea flowers and other intriguing ingredients, this enigmatic beauty lures you to discover what lies beneath. Experience this, as well as fine Thai culinary arts, in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Open from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

FOOD & DRINK | riverside dining

Silver Waves

Cantonese traditions get a modern upgrade and ace riverside views

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iverside dining in Bangkok should, ideally, tick several boxes: An address at an impressive hotel, an ear-popping elevator ride that delivers well-heeled diners to a grand dining room, bird’s-eye views of the Chao Phraya River (bonus points for floor-to-ceiling windows), and, of course, food so good you almost forget to take photos before you eat. Silver Waves, a stylish Cantonese restaurant at the elegant Chatrium Riverside Hotel, delivers all in spades. Extra-crisp linens adorn wellspaced tables that are large enough to accommodate groups, and the vaulted ceilings, curvature of the dining room, and Instagram-worthy panoramas add to the impressive look and feel. The usual Chinese decorating tropes, like 94 | NOV EM BER 2017

red lanterns and ornamental dragons, are noticeably absent and instead, the décor adheres to a muted colour scheme of warm blues and deep wood accents, which allows the views to hold court. Like the decoration, the Cantonese cuisine adds modern touches to a classical base under the watchful eye of Chef Wilach Hemuthai. The Isaan-born chef cut his teeth at some of Thailand’s top hotel chains, like the Shangri-La, Mandarin Oriental, and Anantara, and did a stint on Iron Chef Thailand before he was appointed Chinese Chef at Silver Waves in early 2017. Kick things off with one of the chef’s more avant-garde dishes: Deep-Fried Tiger Prawns with Wasabi Sauce and Watermelon (B650). The

prawns retain a crisp exterior without compromising on the flavour and juiciness of the meat, and while the warm wasabi sauce bordered on overwhelming at times, the fresh, cool melon pleasingly cut through the spice. Next, sway back into a more traditional lane with the Wok-Fried Snow Fish with Salt and Pepper (B940), which is sweet and flavourful, with a not-too-crispy exterior and fish that flakes into tender bites with a simple prod of a chopstick. The signature dish of the venerable chef is his Peking Duck Served in Three Courses (B1,750). The terse description belies the complexity of flavours, and the oolong tea-infused duck is carved tableside and—as tradition begs—is served with spring onions, paper-thin homemade pancakes, and a deliciously thick plum sauce. After carving, the duck breast is sautéed with whole black pepper kernels, and the drumstick is braised for 20 hours and served with a warm and nourishing vegetable soup. If huger still calls, the Pan-Fried Scallops (B840) with X.O. sauce and gingko nuts sit atop a dim suminspired turnip, which fuses the restaurant’s afternoon buffet specialty with the creative forces of the kitchen. The chef’s cooking largely eschews expensive ingredients to focus instead on creating traditional and satisfying Cantonese dishes, and the all-you-can-eat afternoon dim sum is a testament to that. With more than forty selections on offer (B820 per person), it’s easy to see why this feast is perennially popular with holidaygoers and families. Book a private room for special occasions or business meetings. by Ashley Niedringhaus

Silver Waves

36F, Chatrium Riverside Hotel 18 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 023 078 888, ext. 1948 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.chatrium.com bangkok101.com

riverside dining | FOOD & DRINK

Thiptara

The legendary Thai lifestyle of days gone by, restored in all its glory

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ranslated from Thai, thiptara means “water from the heavens”. Set in the midst of a lush tropical garden alongside the Chao Phraya River, and surrounded by majestic banyan trees, the aptly named Thiptara restaurant at The Peninsula Bangkok hotel transports its guests to the era of King Rama IV with its elegant charm, antique furnishings, traditional artwork and architecture, as well as its cuisine. Being on the Thonburi side of the river too, it’s easy to forget about modern day Bangkok from the moment you arrive. The venue itself seats approximately 60 people and offers both open-air riverside seating, sporting magnificent views of the famed ‘River of Kings’, as well as covered seating in teak salas—which are more suited for Bangkok’s unpredictable rainy season. A traditional khim player adds to the authentic ambience, as the instrument’s melodic sounds whisk you away to a bygone time and place. In a celebration of Thai made products, every Thursday the restaurant showcases a selected Thai alcohol, including beer, wine, or spirits. On the evening of our visit we were bangkok101.com

welcomed with rum and vodka based cocktails as well as a savoury spin on the traditional dessert cho muang, steamed flower-shaped dumplings. The menu features traditional dishes from across the four regions of Thailand, including spicy salads, fish and shellfish, curries, and desserts. We began our meal with two light salads: Yum Som O Goong Phao (B440) featuring pomelo (from the Nakhon Chai Si District of Nakhon Pathom province), grilled prawns, roasted coconut, and shallots; and Yum Tua Pu (B420), a spicy wing bean salad with ground pork and prawns, roasted chili paste, soft boiled egg, roasted coconut, crispy garlic, and shallots. Both dishes combine together to form a beautiful blend of textures and flavours. The pomelo salad is smoky and mild, while the wing bean salad is sweet and spicy, and the two together present a marriage of perfectly balanced flavours. We followed our salads with a selection of curries and fish. Gaeng Phed Ped Yang (B460) featuring the chef’s signature roasted duck simmered in red curry with sweet basil and eggplant, and Gaeng Massaman

Nua (B520), the famous Southern-style beef curry with peanut, potatoes, and shallots. Both came highly recommended, but the standout dish of the night was the Pla Hima Sam Rod (B820), the chef’s signature deep-fried Atlantic snow fish with a spicy sweet and sour sauce—crunchy and pungent yet beautifully soft and delicate. A choice of white or brown rice is served with all main dishes. For dessert, a must-try is the signature Khaoniew Mamuang (B350), the famous Thai mango and sticky rice with coconut cream dish. The sweetness of the mango and coconut cream suited us well after the spicy curries and fish mains. All too soon the evening came to an end and we reluctantly boarded the hotel shuttle boat to take us not only across the river, but back to the present day too. by Kelly Harvey

Thiptara

Garden Level, The Peninsula Bangkok 333 Charoen Nakorn Rd. Tel: 02 020 2888 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm bangkok.peninsula.com NOV EM BER 2017 | 95

FOOD & DRINK | review

Mango Tree

Thai fine dining in a homey and relaxed atmosphere

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f you have spent a great deal of time in Bangkok and you haven’t heard of Mango Tree, you’ve been living under a rock. Famed for bringing Thai party favourites to the masses, they have a fleet of branches all over the world. They’re a force to be reckoned with. The Surawongse branch, one of five in Thailand, is a hidden gem. Tucked away on a small street off Silom Road—with an unassuming entrance— its beautiful interior gradually unfolds before your very eyes as you enter. First impressions are somewhat deceiving with this one, as it hides a quaint multi-level seating area with ample open space. But, if possible, you’ll definitely want to sit facing the gorgeous miniature courtyard. Bedecked with rattan chairs and solid teak wood tables, it has a homey and very relaxed vibe. So much so, that I spent some time walking round and ‘discovering’ the numerous hidden personal touches and trinkets dotted around the place. There are plenty of staff milling around as well, 96 | NOV EM BER 2017

attending to the waves of tourists and locals alike. The palate opener of Prawn Satay (B250) was lovely. Juicy, charred, salty, and sweet with a slight tart finish, and set over a mini charcoal burner, this dish was unapologetically familiar but executed so well. Next up was the Pad Thai (B270). I didn’t know whether to eat it or have it enshrined, on account of the ridiculously oversized prawn that guarded it. Smooth and sweet but still tangy, it was just as a proper Pad Thai should be. As far as curries are concerned, their Seafood Red Curry (B300) is definitely one for tamer Western palates than mine. Served with uber fluffy white rice, it was not my absolute favourite dish of the night, but it was an overall tasty dish with a distinct herby kick. However, the Sweet and Sour Grouper (B450) was moreishness incarnate. This crispy number was luckily served with a tame amount of sweet and sour marinade that complemented the zingy warmth of the restaurant’s signature sweet Mango

Daiquiri (B250). I also sampled one of their sweet non-alcoholic offerings— the Mango Tango (B130)—which was simple, beautifully executed, and sorely missed after I gulped it all down. Positively stuffed, I gingerly unwrapped the Pandan Chicken (B220), and after one bite in I declared it my absolutely favourite dish of the night. The marinade seeps into every part of the chicken, and it really has to be tried to be believed. If you fancy yourself a connoisseur of Thai food at the highest level, this perhaps this isn’t the place for you. However, if you want beautifully presented traditional dishes—in a great central location—that are bound to please even the fussiest eaters, then Mango Tree definitely fits the bill. by Zipporah Gene

Mango Tree

37 Soi Tantawan, Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 236 2820 Open daily: 11:30am-midnight www.exquisinethai.com bangkok101.com

SALMON SOUVLAKI

Every weekend AVRA's chef offers authentic Greek dishes for a true Mediterranean affair. It’s not only about good food–it’s about the people, the celebratory atmosphere and the famous Greek hospitality.

Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit Sukhumvit Soi 33, Bangkok Call us on: 02 258 2877

avrabkk.com AVRA Greek Restaurant

AVRA Greek Restaurant Avra Greek Restaurant brings the warmth and charm of Greece to Bangkok. From the moment you enter AVRA, the greek tradition of old-world taverna hospitality surrounds you: welcoming staff, an impressively expansive menu that includes all the perennial favourites prepared with thoughtful touches and wine flows.

FOOD & DRINK | review

Cava by Islero Modern takes on Spanish classics

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aving thrown its sombrero into the increasingly popular Spanish restaurant ring in Bangkok, Islero is hoping its modern take on Iberian classics will inspire a hungry horde to rush through its doors. To that end, the eatery consulted with Eduard Bosch—a chef de cuisine previously at the famed El Bulli in Catalonia—to create some of the dishes. The venue, in the Athenée Tower, has been open 18 months and comprises two restaurants: Islero offers a more formal experience and menu, while Cava by Islero is casual and tapas predominate. We chose the latter, which features a long bar and open sightlines into the kitchen and surrounding office complex. A red mosaic, after the noted fighting bull ‘Islero’ (the restaurant’s namesake) livens up the wall in Cava, while soft jazz saunters through the bistro. The meal started with Idiazabal Cheese (B220) in three textures: foam, cream, and regular pieces. The foam was encased in a castle of thin crackers, sprinkled with cheese pieces

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and surrounded by a moat of cream. The dish was salty and light; one of the more inventive choices for the tapas course. The Huevos Con Chorizo (B280) provided a change-up on the broken eggs classic by rendering the potatoes in the form of crispy rice noodles. While still quite salty, it is a little lighter in this version and a heavy dose of paprika offered a nice tang. The beautiful presentation looked like a bird’s nest crime scene. Wisely no alteration was made to Gambas Al Ajillo (B320 for large portion), the garlic shrimp dish served with chili oil, other than it was cooked in a Josper oven. Be sure to ask for extra bread with this dish as the best part is using it to mop up the excess chili oil. A version of Red Tuna Stew (B250) came with a light-tasting hunk of fish and a delightfully mild tomato-based sauce. The Braised Beef Cheek (B390), with potatoes and truffle foam, was extremely tender and rich, with pickled onion providing a zesty balance.

Next up was Pork and Beef Cannelloni (B300 for large portion) in a Manchego cheese sauce with black truffle purée. The black truffle provided a contrast in presentation and a savoury kick to the hefty white cheese sauce in this filling preparation. Rounding out the meal was a selection of Four Sorbets (B280) made with a Pacojet, which purées frozen foods into fine textures. Chef Emiliano Alvarellos, who is from Argentina but has spent ample time working in Spain, decided that because sorbets are known to clean the palate, he would serve this dessert on a painter’s palette over a framed painting. Ranging from blood orange with olive oil, to green apple and celery, these sublime little tidbits were a highlight of the repast. by Robin Banks

Islero/Cava by Islero

Athenée Tower, 63 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 168 8101 Open daily: 5pm-midnight, 11:30am-2:30pm weekdays for lunch www.islerobangkok.com bangkok101.com

NEW YEAR’S EVE | 31 DECEMBER 2017 Riverside Terrace from 7.00 PM

Sparkle in a chic ‘All White Party’ gala event and dine in open-air riverside splendour with a lavish feast. Celebrate with eclectic live entertainment and an exhilarating ‘All White Show’ staged on a river backdrop. Welcome the New Year with spectacular fireworks. THB 8,500++ per person including soft drinks, juices, house wines, beers and sparkling wine; and pre-dinner cocktails THB 7,000++ per person including soft drinks, juices and local beer, and pre-dinner cocktails THB 3,500++ per child aged 4 - 12 years. A supervised separate ‘Fun Play Area’ for kids is available Prices are subject to service charge and government tax.

ROYAL MOONLIGHT CRUISE Manohra Cruises from 7.00 PM

NEW YEAR’S EVE STREET FAIR Longtail Bar and Grand Sala 6.00 PM - 1.00 AM

End 2017 in charming luxury aboard an antique rice barge cruise. Savour the exotic dishes of a Royal Thai seven course dinner as you glide by the capital’s glittering royal landmarks. Toast bubbles to moonlight luxury as fireworks erupt across the skyline.

The last night of 2017 has a casual, lively vibe at our Thai style street fair offerings an array of local food stands, as well as pop-up bars. Gather for the midnight countdown as a panorama of fireworks colours the River of Kings!

THB 10,900 nett per person including soft drinks, juices, local beer and a bottle of Billecart-Salmon Champagne; and pre-dinner cocktails *Private cruises for a party of up to 10 persons are also available.

*Benihana Japanese Teppanyaki Restaurant, Brio Italian Restaurant and Trader Vic’s offer special New Year’s Eve A la carte options.

SCAN FOR MORE FESTIVE OFFERS.

Prices are inclusive service charge and government tax. For reservations and more information, please call +66 (0) 2476 0022 Ext.1416 or email: riversidedining@anantara.com

10% EARLY BIRD SAVINGS FOR BOOKINGS MADE BY 15 NOVEMBER 2017 LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Road, Thonburi, Bangkok 10600, Thailand T +66 (0) 2476 0022 F +66 (0) 2476 1120 E bangkokriverside@anantara.com anantara.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Benihana

Photos by Mikel Flamm

We all know about dinner theatre, but here the chef is the theatre

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he world-renowned Benihana brand came to being in 1964 in New York, the brainchild of Japanese immigrant Hiroaki Aoki (also known as ‘Rocky’). Sadly, he passed away in 2008 but he was at the opening—25 years ago—of the first Benihana in Thailand, at the Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort. The unique selling point of Benihana is that the food is prepared on a heated steel grill (teppanyaki) that is part of your table, and that the chefs are skilled jugglers with the tools of their trade—and amazing entertainers to boot! Our meal—in the red and black themed restaurant with Japanese ephemera strategically dotted around the interior—began with a Japanese onion soup which is light, and sets you up for the signature dishes next to arrive. The appetizers are created fresh, as you order them, and the first to join us on our table were the Grilled Scallop (B550), tender seafood morsels infused with a Japanese Rayu sauce, surrounded by crispy vegetables. By contrast, the Dragon Rolls (B440)

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consist of crab stick and avocado, wrapped in eel and topped with almond, lemon zest, and Teriyaki sauce, which really sets the taste buds alight. Finally, the Spider Rolls (B460), soft shell crab and avocado with a lightly spiced Tabiko mayonnaise and tempura flakes, all of which offered up their own unique taste. The appetizer menu is extensive, but don’t fill up on starters as the best is yet to come. For the main dish we ordered Rocky’s Choice (B1,340), which consists of Australian Angus beef alongside corn-fed chicken in lemon butter sauce. The grill in front of us had been heating up while we had been enjoying the appetizers, but before the grilling began Teppan Chef Supachok Bunpo came to our table to introduce himself. He smiled, took a large metal spatula and foot-long two pronged fork from the “weapons belt” around his waist, and began an intricate juggling routine, with the instruments whirling through the air and spinning around his body. A Cirque du Soleil performer couldn’t have done any better. And when he set the whole Teppanyaki grill plate on fire

in front of us it looked like a 4th of July fireworks display. Supachok was a comedian, too, and he kept us smiling with his jokes and antics as he cooked our tasty meal—right in front of us—explaining every step of the cooking process along the way. The meats are cooked to your preference, and include another signature item, Benihana Garlic Fried Rice. The in-house mustard cream and ginger sauces that come with the meal, and the spices added to the chicken and beef as they are cooked by your dexterous chef/entertainer, complement each other perfectly. Put it all together and it made for one of the tastiest, and most entertaining meals I’ve eaten in a long time. by Robin Westley Martin

Benihana

Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd. Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 476 0022, ext 1442 www.anantara.com bangkok101.com

The inaugural Phuket Food & Wine Expo will showcase the very best gourmet cuisine, the finest wines & spirits, and the latest innovations in luxury kitchen products & services.

It’s the food event of the year!

9 -11 M ARCH 2018

RPMIEC • ROYAL PHUKET MARINA PHUKET • THAILAND

www.phuketfoo dandwine.com O r g a n i s e d By

O f f i c i a l S u p p l i e r & M e d i a Pa r t n e r

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Clément Hernandez

Affordable French fare, in a charming old world setting, is livening up the Sukhumvit Soi 11 dining scene

F

or Clément Hernandez, the definition of French food is product and technique. “The techniques are to enhance the flavours, and give a second life to the product,” he explains, as he recalls picking produce as a child with his grandfather in the fields of his home town of Cahors, in France. He also learned tricks watching his father—a chef and culinary teacher—in the kitchen. “Indirectly, these two men have shaped whoever I am right now,” admits the 28-year-old Executive Chef of Brasserie

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Cordonnier, the recently opened French bistro on Sukhumvit Soi 11. The three-storied townhouse features a restaurant on the ground floor, and a speakeasy-style bar—the Sole Rouge—up on the third. The restaurant is fitted with large mirrors, Parisienne-themed murals, and graphic tiles, offering bastions of old-world charm in the middle of this touristy downtown stretch. Sweeping through the menu we see a mix of classic French offerings and Chef Clément’s signature dishes, all at

prices that are shockingly modest (rare for proper French fare in this city). “When we created the menu, we wanted to offer authentic food for affordable prices, something this city needs,” says Clément. Of course with Clément—a Michelin-trained chef who learned from such culinary legends as Michel Roux, Franck Putelat, Patrick Bertron and Jean Michel Lorain, to name a few—this meant there would be no compromise on the quality, which is why everything is made in-house, with bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

the exception of the bread. With that we dive right into an order of oysters, which we pair with a CP Mule, Italian Mixologist Davide Sambo’s version of a classic Moscow Mule, but made with cognac instead of Vodka. “So many of the dishes here I simplify, in comparison to what I have done at Michelin star restaurants,” he points out. “I take the original recipe, remove components, and serve it my way, sans artifices.” And despite all this tweaking, he is confident he gets the flavour profile correct because his foundation is always classic French. Speaking to the young chef, its easy to see his immense sense of pride for his heritage and unwavering focus for his work. “I hope to be a link in the chain for spreading French cuisine to the coming generation.” He continues, “My role is to educate my team, and transmit classic French techniques that I have learned from my previous chefs to young Thai chefs.” “Of course, with that said,” he adds, “I am just 28 years-old, so I can’t really come up with 40 original items for this menu. Some of the dishes here are served the classic way, such as escargot with garlic and herbs, Burgundian egg meurette, French onion soup, and so on.” We move on to the chilled Ratatouille, featuring a mix of bangkok101.com

Mediterranean vegetables, a trio of tomatoes, sunflower seeds and fresh mint. The chef explains that each vegetable is sautéed one by one, and then combined. “This allows every vegetable to be cooked all the way through. Otherwise it all gets mushy, which is not the right way. My mother does it that way, but it’s not right. Just don’t tell her I said so,” he laughs. Next we indulge in a Foie Gras Terrine, a generous communal appetizer which we enjoy with brioche and grape chutney. When paired with the sweet chutney the creamy, ganache-like texture of the foie gras—meticulously prepared to be devoid of the liver-like after taste—is simply divine. Not trying tartare at a French eatery is a culinary sin, so we next take pleasure in the Australian Wagyu Beef and Oyster tartare with shallot cream. One bite in and Clément reveals an early career trauma. “It took me months to get it right when I was first learning this dish,” he says. “So putting this on the menu is so much of an accomplishment for me.” In this tartare the oyster is used as a seasoning for the beef, without making the dish too fishy, and allowing the beef to shine on its own. Of the mains, we tried a simple yet delectable Sautéed Cod, with

crushed potatoes, shallots, capers served in a brown butter sauce. This was followed by Confit Pork Belly, with baby potatoes and apples in an onion purée. This dish showcases the chef’s capabilities in merging French and British cooking—from his time spent in both countries. “The way I cook the pork belly is in the classic French way, by removing the skin so it’s not too fatty,” Clément remarks. “Pairing pork and apple is a style that is very British, because the apple cuts the saltiness of the meat. The bridge for the two components is the jus, and no one takes the jus more seriously than the French.” As we take a bite of the heavenly Iced Nougat, served in a tart red berry sauce, Clément points out, “I think there is a big misunderstanding on what French food is. To me, it’s not just fine dining at a five-star hotel, but includes street-style food in a casual ambience. I don’t think there is one French restaurant that ticks all of the boxes—the ambience, food, atmosphere, authenticity, etc. At Brasserie Cordonnier it’s my aim to put all these components together, and bring a slice of France to the middle of Bangkok.” interview by Reena Karim

www.cordonnierbkk.com NOV EM BER 2017 | 103

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

I

Eclectic Tastes at Sallim Restaurant

f it weren’t for friends and/or visitors who like to stay at the highend hotels along the river, such as the Mandarin Oriental, the Shangri-La, and the Sheraton, I probably wouldn’t spend so much time in the area around nearby Charoenkrung Road. But I now have a new reason to visit! Since the Thailand Creative & Design Center (TCDC) moved into the 80- year-old Grand Postal Building on Charoenkrung Road earlier this year, the once-glorious neighborhood has experienced a kind of renaissance. Old historical buildings have been converted into boutique hotels, small shops, creative businesses, restaurants, and bars—all of which are helping to reawaken the area and reveal the charm of Bangkok’s oldest road (and the adjoining riverside community). Charoenkrung Soi 32 is lined with friendly street food stands, and among them is Sallim Restaurant, located in a long-standing shophouse. The serene green-coloured walls and the deep orange of the plastic table cloths first draw my attention. The front of the shop has a roti station on one side, and a drinks station on the other. Judging by the eclectic

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 10 4 | NOV EM BER 2017

clientele—Thais, a Muslim family, and group of South Asian men—I know that this meal will be interesting, as the restaurant offers halal Pakistani, Indian, and Thai cuisine. I start my order with salted lassi. It tastes so refreshing and has a good balance between the sour taste of yoghurt and the taste of salt. The television on the wall has an international news broadcast, though nobody is paying attention to it. The food alone is enough to absorb everyone’s attention. Chicken soup comes first. I always order chicken soup whenever I have a chance, and this one meets my standards. The soup is light and well-balanced with the sweet taste of cooked onion, soft tomatoes, and crispy fried shallots. For main dishes I order chicken korma, beef karahi, and fried whole fish. I add to that order some buttered naan as the server— the owner—recommended. When everything arrives it gets more interesting, because the dishes all look the same! It is impossible and confusing to identify them from their appearance alone. The only way to know the real taste of each dish is to sample it, which I do by wrapping a

bite’s-worth of each in small pieces of naan. Then the secret of flavours, and surprise of the spices and texture are revealed. The chicken korma is delectable. Its curry, which includes yogurt, is very smooth and mellow, while the beef karahi curry has a more sour and unique taste. Though they look the same, the two dishes couldn’t taste more different. The fried fish is mellow, simple and tasty. I recommend dressing each fish bite with a squeeze of lime and a dab of fish sauce: heaven! Not only do I devour all the dishes, but I find room for a dessert of roti and condensed milk. Hot milk tea, without any sugar, is also ordered. The creamy taste of the milk in the tea goes along so well with the sweetness of roti. Sallim serves the right portions and charges the right price. I hope the rebirth of the old river community will bring more visitors to experience both the old and new of the area—and the delights of Sallim. Address: Sallim Restaurant is on Charoenkrung Soi 32. Open 10am till 8pm, serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, and tea time. Tel. 02 237 1060. bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm

on healthy dishes, while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.marriott.com

FRENCH

Liu

A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes. 3F, Conrad Bangkok 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

Pagoda Chinese Restaurant

This upscale venue serves traditional Cantonese cuisine in a spacious, contemporary setting. The menu focuses

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Tel: 02 676 6982 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.aldosbistro.com

Chez Pape

The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed. 2/7, Soi Sukhumvit 11 Tel: 02 255 2492 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 5pm-11pm www.chezpape.com

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

Aldo’s Bistro

Aldo’s Bistro

This superb French restaurant, founded by chef Hervé Frerard, offers a refined and welcoming dining atmosphere, and a tantalizing menu to match (with dishes seldom found elsewhere in Bangkok). 7/F, Ascott Sathorn, 187 South Sathorn Rd.

This restaurant’s classic French haute cuisine definitely lives up to its lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items well into the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com

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listings | FOOD & DRINK

Loulou Forks & Glasses

This cozy bistro-style spot. offers superb savoury selections such as cold cuts and cheeses, as well as market-fresh daily specials and affordably good wines. 459/61, Suan Phlu Soi 8 Tel: 083 041 4351 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.louloubangkok.com

Outlaw Creative Cuisine

This restaurant definitely lives up to its name, serving daring fare with an artistic flair, and letting the high quality ingredients speak for themselves. 415, Charoen Krung Soi 45 Tel: 090 021 2111 Open: Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, Sat, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10:30pm, Sun 5pm-10:30pm www.facebook.com/outlawcreativecuisine

includes all the perennial favourites prepared with thoughtful touches. GF, Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit 1 Soi Daengudom, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open: Tue-Fri, noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Sat-Sun, noon-11pm, Mon, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 258 2877 www.avrabkk.com

INTERNATIONAL

GREEK Avra Greek Restaurant

Rising from the mid-Sukhumvit culinary clutter like a Parthenon of Hellenic delights, this charming eatery offers an impressively expansive menu that

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Bistro M

Bistro M

This venue combines the offerings and style of a restaurant, with the laidback

feel of a cozy cafĂŠ. An idyllic setting to sit back, relax, and enjoy some quality wining and dining. GF, Marriott Executive Apartments 90, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 302 5265 Buffet available: 6:30pm-10pm www.marriott.com

Bunker

From the outside this three-storey concrete building may look rustic and unfinished; inside however you’ll find contemporary American cuisine with a heavy New York influence being served up. The top-notch ingredients and excellence in execution are really what mark the dishes here. 118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com

Canvas

Serving up artistic masterpieces on a plate, the visionary kitchen team here use mainly local produce and ingredients, conjuring up unique concoctions that give traditional Thai dishes a definite twist.

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FOOD & DRINK | listings 113/9-10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 099 614 1158 Open: Tue-Thu, Sun, 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sat, 6pm-12:30am Tel: 099 614 1158 www.canvasbangkok.com

Crepes & Co

The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a late night treat. 59/4, Langsuan Soi 1, Tel: 02 652 0208 GF, EmQuartier, Tel: 095 251 5233 Thonglor Soi 8, Tel: 02 726 9398 7F, CentralWorld, Tel: 092 663 1386 www.facebook.com/crepesnco

Embassy Room

Ultra-modern and sophisticated, this restaurant features an all-day menu of contemporary European cuisine with a definite Asian flair. 9F, The Park Hyatt Bangkok Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 6am-10:30am, noon-2pm,

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6pm-10pm www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Karmakamet Diner

Although the café style selections are outstanding, the talented kitchen team is also adept at creating some serious fine dining dishes. 30/1 Soi Methi Niwet Tel: 02 262 0700 Open daily: 10am-11:30pm www.karmakametdiner.com

29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 624 0000 www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Red Oven

Styled as a ‘World Food Market’, this all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. And on weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet. 7F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Wild & Co. Park Society

Park Society

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this high-altitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus.

This one-of-a-kind restaurant takes the Thai taste for “forest food” and fuses it with the Western yen for grilled meats. In this case the meat happens to be wild or farmed game, for the most part. 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana, Phra Khanong Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.wildnco.com

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listings | FOOD & DRINK

ITALIAN Galleria Milano

An Italian eatery in the hands of Italians—where the pride is tasted in every bite—serves as the inspiration for a restaurant aiming to conquer the city. 1F, Mille Malle, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Tel: 02 663 4988 Open daily: 3pm-11pm www.millemalle.com

La Bottega di Luca

This elegant Italian eatery, overseen by the ever charming Luca Appino, serves over 15 different kinds of pasta and an array of Italian specialties you won’t find on many other menus. 2F, Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 204 1731 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm, Mon, 5pm-11pm www.labottega.name/restaurant

JAPANESE

KOREAN Joha

A cozy little Korean restaurant tucked away in the cool semi-suburban neighbourhood of Ari, offering a fresh take on authentic Korean cuisine together with a chic, contemporary interior. 59/2, Phahonyothin Soi 7 Tel: 097 247 9777 Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-9pm www.facebook.com/Johakoreanrestaurant

When you’re voted Bangkok’s favourite Korean restaurant 13 years running you must be doing something right. The chefs here go to painstaking lengths to ensure an authentic dining experience, by preparing meals of unparalleled culinary brilliance. Highly recommended. 2F, Pathumwan Princess Hotel, 444, MBK Center, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 216 3700 Open daily: Lunch, 11:30am-2pm, Dinner, 5:30pm-10pm www.pprincess.com

Crab and Claw

Katana Shabu & Japanese Dining

The deliciously inventive Japanese fusion cuisine here is equally matched by the inventiveness of the décor—where each private dining room has a different, eye-popping design scheme. 21/38, Sukhumvit Soi 23 (Soi Prasanmit) Open daily 5:30pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 088 0706 www.ssjd-katana.com

Utage

This five star hotel’s F&B outlet offers a one-of-a-kind dining experience with their ‘Atarachi’ brunch (meaning “new” or “fresh”). It highlights all the best Japanese delicacies you could possibly desire, such as, sushi, sashimi, noodles, teppanyaki, sukiyaki, tempura, and many more. Plaza Athénée Bangkok Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 650 8800 www.plazaatheneebangkok.com bangkok101.com

STEAK & BURGER

Kong Ju

SEAFOOD

Katana Shabu & Japanese Dining

Open: Sun, Tue-Thu, 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat, 11:30am-1am www.eltapeobkk.com

Ensconced on an upper curve of the EmQuartier mall Helix building, this popular restaurant features “New England-style” lobster, clams, crabs, and plenty more. 7F, Helix Bldg, EmQuartier Tel: 096 197 5769 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/crabandclaw

Raw Bar

Oysters, tartare, carpaccio, ceviche: it’s all raw here, and it’s all very good. A nice low-key spot to shuck some shellfish and hang out with friends. 440/9, Sukhumvit 55 Tel: 02 713 8335 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight www.facebook.com/TheRawBarBKK

SPANISH/LATIN El Tapeo

This three-storey restaurant, which specializes in tapas-style offerings, offers authentic Spanish tastes at very affordable prices. 159/10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 052 0656

Burger Factory

Burger Factory

Here you’ll find some of the most consistently good hamburgers in the city, and they come with a healthy range of haute toppings. Wash your choice down with a vanilla milkshake and seal the deal with some yummy curly fries. 3, Soi Ekkamai 10 Tel: 02 714 4249 Open: Sun-Thu, 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat ,11.30am-midnight www.facebook.com/theburgerfactory

THAI Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant (and cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Eats Payao

This cool and casual hole-in-the-wall bistro-style eatery serves up amazing Northern style Thai dishes, and boasts the “best khao soi in town”. 95/3 Nang Linchi Rd. Tel: 094-303-5833 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.facebook.com/eatspayao

Madame Shawn

Born in Thailand, Madame Shawn currently has six popular eateries in and around Paris, but this is her first Bangkok restaurant. Expect authentic NOV EM BER 2017 | 109

FOOD & DRINK | listings Thai delicacies with innovative European twists—all at very affordable prices. 127, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 3 Alley Open daily: 11am-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 258 1205 www.mmeshawn.com/bbk

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Open daily: 5pm-midnight www.mandarinoriental.com

Suan Bua

Located in the busy north end of Bangkok, this Thai restaurant offers a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere with a focus on natural and organic ingredients. It encompasses traditional dishes from all over Thailand. LLF, Centara Grand, Ladprao 1695 Phahonyothin Rd. Tel: 02 541 1234 ext. 4068 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm; 6pm-10:30pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com

CAFÉ Dean & Deluca

Sala Rim Naam

Sala Rim Naam

Exquisite and authentic Thai cuisine served in a beautiful colonial pavilion, built in the traditional Northern Thai style. There’s enough seating to comfortably accommodate up to 170 guests in this spacious riverside setting. The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave. Tel: 02 659 9000

This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients. GF, MahaNakhon Cube, Tel: 02 023 1616 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, Tel: 0 2261 0464 1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd, Tel: 02 108 2200 www.deandeluca.com/thailand

Kiosk Café

Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boÎte is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cakeand-chat, or a delicious hot coffee. 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 259 4089

Open: Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com

Rocket Coffeebar

Rocket Coffeebar

A Nordic-inspired café offering premium quality coffee along with variety of comfort foods, all under the healthy concept of farm-to-table. Now with two downtown locations. 147, Sathorn Soi 12, Tel: 02 635 0404 1F, Grease Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49, Tel: 02 662 6638 www.rocketcoffeebar.com

VEGETARIAN Veganerie Concept

The modern-rustic interior is flooded with natural light, and the fare—from tantalizing dairy-free bakery desserts to vegan appetizers and main courses—is pretty “natural” as well. 35/2 Soi Methiniwet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) Tel: 02 258 8489 Open: Fri-Wed, 10am–10pm www.facebook.com/veganbakerybangkok

Spicy Wagyu Tartare “LAAB”

LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com 110 | NOV EM BER 2017

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N E W Y E A R ’S E V E

R O O F T O P C E L E B R A T I O N S T I C K E T S AVA I L A B L E B O O K E A R LY TO AVO I D D I S A P P O I N T M E N T P L E A S E CO N TAC T O U R D I N I N G R E S E RVAT I O N S

For further information please contact dining reservations Tel : 02 100 6255 Email : diningcgcw@chr.co.th CentaraGrandatCentralWorld

CentaraGrand_CentralWorld

Light up the night at Character cigar and whisky bar

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE character launches second branch Inside the COMPASS SKYVIEW HOTEL (Sukhumvit Soi 24) sits a cozy little whisky and cigar lounge called CHARACTER—the second one to open in Bangkok this year (the first branch is in the Anantara Siam Hotel). This newly launched cigar sanctuary shares the 32nd floor with the hotel’s popular MOJJO BAR, but the vibe is pure “gentlemen’s club”, with padded leather sofas, glass cases displaying quality spirits, and a walk-in humidor stocked with a wide selection of premium handmade cigars. The bar, meanwhile, puts the emphasis on fine and rare whiskies, including newly imported single cask selections from Duncan Taylor, Hepburn’s Choice, and First Editions (independent bottlers in Scotland). And, when weather permits, the outdoor terrace provides extra room for enjoying a puff. Open Monday to Saturday from 5pm to 1am. Memberships fees vary from B40,000 to B165,000. www.facebook.com/characterbar

the bar everyone is “talking” about Local arts scene personality BRUNO TANQUEREL is one of the folks behind the much talked about SEVANA BAR, which opened at the end of August on an unassuming soi off Chan Road (soi 16 to be precise). The name translates as “chatty conversation” in Thai, and the close quarters within this narrow low lit spot are perfect for getting acquainted with whoever else has dropped in to enjoy the cool atmosphere, good music, relaxed vibe, and specially created cocktail list. Bruno, who designed the interior, chose the Chan Road area precisely because it’s “not developed”, but judging by the other hip spots which have opened nearby (Eats, Payao, Birds Rotisserie, etc.) this locale may not be off-the-beaten-track for much longer. Open every night except Sunday, from 7:30pm onwards, and as an added bonus the late night kitchen serves up great Thai food. www.facebook.com/sevanabar

for the sake of sake Situated in an immaculately designed space that combines the spirit of Osaka’s backstreets with the laid-back soul of Bangkok’s old town, JUA (672/49 Charoen Krung 28) is on the radar of both foodies and boozies—is that a word yet?—as their food and drink menus offer yakitori, kushiyaki and Japanese shared plates, along with a well curated selection of shochu, highballs, and whisky. But it’s the sake selection, including labels such as Masumi, Born, Tedorigawa, Kozaeman, Tamagawa, Sakunohana, and Bijofu, that have truly piqued the interest of many. Open 6pm till midnight, Tuesday to Saturday. www.facebook.com/juabangkok

ratchathewi gets radical If you haven’t had a reason to get off at Ratchathewi BTS stop lately, then go check out FIGURE 8, a recently opened cocktail bar and gallery—exhibitions are set to rotate every three months—with a dark gothic decor and an inventive cocktail list. The man behind the drinks menu is former Sugar Ray mixologist PRINCE ARMORNKUNATHUM, who has named each signature beverage after an influential artist. Add to that a soundtrack that mixes jazz, soul, electro, and even live acoustic performances and DJ sets, and you’ve got the kind of edgy intimate spot that this neighbourhood needs more of. www.facebook.com/figure8bangkok

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NIGHTLIFE | riverside drinks

Riverside Grill

Open kitchen, casual vibe, and great views of the Chao Phraya

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fter receiving a recent makeover, the Riverside Grill restaurant at The Royal Orchid Sheraton is aiming to attract locals and expats with a new cocktail menu focused on whiskey. The main attraction here remains the river, and unfettered views of the traffic on the waterway are the emphasis for both indoor and outdoor seating. Inside, the dim evening lights help the dark wood paneling mix with the few splashes of maroon paint. Meanwhile, an open kitchen exudes a casual vibe, and the music is a little bouncy but still allows for conversation. The French food and beverage manager for the hotel came up with the whiskey cocktail theme, which has a menu divided for the sexes. And if you think that means the women’s menu has a monopoly on all the sweet drinks, think again. From the guy’s menu we sampled the McClaine (B350), which combines Jim Beam, Angostura bitters, and red grenadine, as well as the Mad Hatter (B320) which makes use of Jim Beam, Midori, amaretto, lime juice, and peach in syrup. Both were satisfyingly sweet, as

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was the restaurant’s take on the Old Fashioned (B300) which has a sugar cube right in the drink. However, if you’re keen on something decidedly different then veering from the whiskey drinks may prove to be the tonic—and the signature Negroni (B300) will give a well-needed bitter kick to the proceedings. The Riverside Grill serves plenty of food as well, and the Austrian executive chef has designed what he describes as a “healthy menu”. True to his word, the Quinoa and Arugula Salad (B320) with baked goat cheese, pomegranate seeds, citrus and raspberry vinaigrette provided a tart start to the meal. The Beetroot Gazpacho (B290) came with homemade kefir yogurt, deconstructed egg components and dill. The soup was satisfying and hearty, whetting the appetite for the grilled delicacies still to come. The Jumbo Tiger Prawns (B990) were served with plum tomatoes provençale (B150), that offered an acidic contrast to the succulent seafood. A juicy T-bone steak from the US (B1,700), grass-fed 180 days, was

rich and filling—with a pleasing pink hue in the middle—and so tasty it did not require any sauce. There is also a theme for the dessert menu, with chocolate holding sway for the moment. The Valrhona Chocolate Jar (B290) featured a glass piped full of two tones of the bittersweet mousse, with biscuit crumble, strawberries, and mint on a slate slab. Meanwhile, the Choco-Cake (B290) was a variation on a classic, with chocolate flan enrobed in a chocolate shell, served with vanilla bean ice cream, Chantilly cream, and a ribbon of white chocolate. The cream helped cut the heavy flan nicely. The bar also opens at 4pm daily so the venue can function as a meeting spot for sundowners. Be aware however that although the bar stays open late, the kitchen only operates from 5pm till 10:30pm. by Robin Banks

Riverside Grill

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers 2, Charoen Krung Soi 30 Tel: 02 266 0123 Bar open daily: 4pm to 1am www.royalorchidsheraton.com bangkok101.com

riverside drinks | NIGHTLIFE

Trader Vic’s

Bangkok’s original Tiki bar beckons once again

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rends are cyclical, and the nightlife scene is fickle, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that Tiki bars are having another moment in the sun. This year, hibiscus patterns and tropical drinks have appeared in bars from Ari to the Old Town. With island vibes in vogue again, now is a good time to pull your Aloha shirt out of retirement and revisit Bangkok’s original haole haunt: Trader Vic’s. Now celebrating its 25th anniversary, Trader Vic’s, ideally located in the Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort, was playing host to bands, brunches, and farewell bashes long before bars were built outside of hotels. Even after urban development, outside trends, and bartenders brought up in the Digital Age started to reshape the city’s F&B scene, this bar and restaurant was still serving Mai Tais and ribs to happy houses. Bangkok’s Trader Vic’s, like the other 18 branches across the world, mirrors the flagship outlet in Emeryville, California; overflowing with Polynesian Tiki masks and wooden bangkok101.com

replicas of Chinese junks. It overlooks a body of water (the Chao Phraya River rather than the San Francisco Bay), and exotic cocktails are its trademark. Recently, it’s brought in two new bands—a soft rock group from Monday to Wednesday, and a jazzy, energetic trio from Thursday to Saturday—and shaken up the specials. That’s given the venue a shot in the arm. On Fridays, swing by for ‘Prawns, Ribs & Bibs’. The menu offers Pacific Rim-inspired cuisine prepared by Chef Alessandro di Cecco, whose résumé includes a stint under Gordon Ramsay. Choose from three kinds of prawns, in flavours ranging from pineapple- and curry-laced Creole to coconut-kissed Maui Waui (B580 each). Go for a platter and you get the prawns with a rack of ribs and a pitcher of beer or frozen margarita (B1900). The signature Asian-glazed and Jamaican jerk ribs go especially well with the venue’s calling card: the 1944 Mai Tai (B260). As you may recall, Trader Vic’s invented the Mai Tai, and this recipe pays tribute to the original: dark rum,

lime, a little syrup, orange curacao, some French Orgeat, and crushed ice. It’s a beautiful thing as is, but if you feel the need for a twist, the Maui Mai Tai (B260) adds sweetness to the equation in the form of pineapple juice. This is the kind of place begging you to let your hair down, but maybe you should keep your hair up if you order the Tiki Bowl (B350). A blend of light and dark rums, brandy, Orgeat, and orange juice, and served with copious straws in a kava bowl featuring moai as legs, the cocktail is made for two. If that doesn’t lighten the mood, get a Rum Keg (B750). This potent mix of rum and tropical fruit is made for four people and served in, yes… a mini-keg. by Craig Sauers

Trader Vic’s

Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 476 0022 Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-midnight; closed for dinner on Sundays bangkok-riverside.anantara.com NOV EM BER 2017 | 115

NIGHTLIFE | review

TacoChela

New taquería brings beer, spirits, and Mexican street food to Ari

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f you are particularly well-versed in Mexican slang, you already know what you’re getting into with TacoChela. Meaning “tacos and beer” in the vernacular, this colourful, carefully renovated home in Ari specialises in—you guessed it—street-style tacos with quality beer. That description falls woefully short of the mark, though. These aren’t your average tacos, and the beer is anything but the run-of-the-mill brews you might still associate with this city. TacoChela is the brainchild of Chef Jimmy Rojas Lopez, who relocated from Dubai (where he was head chef at Zoco) to partner with the beer geeks behind Mikkeller Bangkok. Here, Lopez has traded his chef’s whites for black t-shirts and low-slung shorts. “It’s a taquería, not a restaurant,” he’s quick to remind. A palette of chartreuse, bubble-gum pink, baby blue, and bright yellow—contrasted by white bricks blasted with Mikkeller Art Director Keith Shore’s Henry and Sally characters running away with a red chilli—reinforces his assertion. The menu is made up of panMexican dishes that go down well with 116 | NOV EM BER 2017

beer. Before the restaurant opened, Lopez tried out different combinations at pop-ups: slow-cooked pork butt, chorizo, grilled steak. Since TacoChela has opened, he’s plated Tacos Alambre (B190 for three), literally a mix of chopped things, like steak, ham, and bacon, whose flavour calls to mind flame-grilled fajitas; Fried Fish Tacos (B280 for three) served with vibrant chimichurri; and mouth-watering, hip-widening Chorizo (B280 for three). To cut through the heaviness, try one of the house-made Ceviches, which rotate depending on availability and the chef’s whims, from Grouper (B86) to Snapper (B275), and whatever else is fresh at the moment. The Mikkeller crew have always gone above and beyond to provide some of the boldest, brightest, and hardest to find beers in Thailand. Here they’ve installed 20 taps and stocked dozens of world-class beers, including the single-hop IPA series from Mikkeller, which highlight the distinct flavours of different hop varieties: Simcoe, Chinook, Mosaic. This is a great opportunity to experience how one core ingredient can influence the

flavour and aroma of a beer. Hoppy beers also complement spicy and tangy foods. One good pairing: Omnipollo Zodiak IPA (B380/ pint) with the House Guacamole (B225). But with so many beers and a tap list that will likely rotate by the week, you can freely experiment here. For a more robust flavour profile, try Mikkeller’s complex and label-defying Mexas Ranger (B160/half pint), a dark beer brewed with Mexican spices, almond milk, cocoa, black beans, and avocado leaves. If—gasp—you’d rather have a cocktail, know that TacoChela serves a few kinds of Margaritas (B260/150ml) on draft, from passionfruit to the classic lime-and-salted-rim mix. Finally, in true Mexican fashion, the bar stocks a number of rare mescals and tequilas, including bottles from Casa Noble. by Craig Sauers

TacoChela by Mikkeller Ari Samphan Soi 1 Open: Tue-Thu, 5pm-11pm, Fri-Sat, 5pm-midnight facebook.com/tacochelabkk

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NIGHTLIFE | listings

BAR About Eatery

The bottom line is this: if you are a wine lover, you’ll love this place. It’s a warm and welcoming bar and restaurant that specializes in Mediterranean fare and artisan wines made using natural, biodynamic, and organic methods. GF, Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit 21, Soi 3 Tel: 081 920 0740 Open: Mon-Fri, 11:30am-2pm, Mon-Sat, 5pm-1am www.abouteatery.com

quiet, and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 7am-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Chez Jay Tapas Bar

Duke

The Bar

The Bar

Featuring a black and gold colour theme, and both indoor and outdoor seating, this 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated,

Flava Bar & Lounge

The garden setting, accented with vintage furniture and featuring a 200-year-old wooden bar, attracts the local film industry and advertising crowd both at lunch and after work. 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 010 1852 Open: Mon-Sat, noon-2:30pm, 6pm-late www.facebook.com/49terrace

Flava Bar & Lounge

Although it’s in a mall, this high-end whisky and cigar lounge—full to bursting with paintings and sculptures—feels more like a SoHo warehouse loft space owned by an eccentric millionaire. 1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 094 647 8888 Open daily: 11am-midnight facebook.com/pg/duke.gaysorn

S P A R K L E

Taking its visual cue from the private wet bar of British fashion designer Paul Smith, this fun and funky hangout also boasts Bangkok’s “longest happy hour”, which stretches from 5pm till midnight, every day of the week. 2F, Dream Hotel, 10, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Open daily: 5pm-midnight Tel: 02 254 8500 www.dreamhotels.com/bangkok

FooJohn Building

With four distinct venues within one building—from French bistro to US-style smokehouse—this hip Chinatown hotspot has quickly joined the ranks of go-to destinations for night owls and creative types alike.

T H I S

N E W

Y E A R ’ S

E V E

| 7.30 PM - 3.00 AM Sparkle sky high on New Year’s Eve. Fizzle with champagne and devour a festive feast. Bring on the shine as you party to the glittering panorama of fireworks at countdown. THB 18,990 nett per person

includes a 375 ml. bottle of

THB 34,990 nett per couple

includes a 750 ml. bottle of

champagne champagne

THB 16,990 nett per person includes a 375 ml. bottle of champagne for bookings of 3 persons or more WIN FABULOUS PRIZES IN OUR LUCKY RAFFLE. 10% OFF FOR EARLY BIRD BOOKINGS BY 15 NOVEMBER 2017

For more information and reservations, please dial +66 (0) 2431 9100 Ext. 1416 or email: attitude.vriv@avanihotels.com AVANI Riverside Bangkok Hotel, 26 Fl. 257 Charoennakorn Road, Thonburi, Bangkok 10600 Thailand attitudebangkok.com

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listings | NIGHTLIFE 831 Charoen Krung Rd, Soi 31 Open: Wed-Sun, 7pm-midnight Tel: 085 527 3511 www.facebook.com/foojohnbkk

Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com

Goldencoins Taproom

The Living Room

Wood and brick loom large in the low-lit interiors, chalkboard menus list the kitchen’s comfort food, and an ample selection of craft beers—all made by the owner—tempt Thai craft beer connoisseurs of all kinds. Ekkamai Mall, Ekkamai Soi 10 Open daily: 5pm-midnight Tel: 082 675 9673 facebook.com/goldencoinstaproom

Gypsy Spells Bar

A themed bar, focusing on fortune telling and Thai legends, offers a unique cocktail menu, as well as live gypsy jazz music on Friday nights and blues on Saturdays. 2, Sukhumvit Soi 29 Tel: 02 662 3060 Open daily: 5:30pm to midnight www.mahanaga.com

Home to one of the finest live jazz venues in Bangkok, this nightspot is tastefully decorated, and includes a sweeping bar, comfortable armchairs and sofas, and subdued lighting—not to mention fine whiskies, cocktails, and cognacs. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 1F, 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily: 9am-midnight Tel: 02 649 8353 www.thelivingroomatbangkok.com

Rabbit Hole

A proper cocktail bar, run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What’s more, the personable bartenders really know their spirits. 125, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 081 822 3392 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.facebook.com/rabbitholebkk

ROOFTOP SKY BAR Bangkok Heightz

Inblu Bar

Inblu Bar

Located on the hotel’s lobby level, this stylish drink spot offers an extensive selection of beers, whiskies, cocktails, and wines, plus tasty nibbles and great live music seven days a week. Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.pullmanbankokgrandesukhumvit.com

J. Boroski Mixology

A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location. bangkok101.com

This chic and stylish semi-alfresco lounge offers great views, plus an upscale take on street food and a drinks menu full of cocktails inspired by Thai culture. 39F, The Continent Hotel, 413 Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily: 6pm-1am Tel: 02 867 7000 www.facebook.com/bangkokheightz

CRU Champagne Bar

This high altitude hot spot is own by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com

Long Table

Although known for its massive communal dining table, you can also glug signature cocktails or new latitude wines while enjoying the incredible sky-high view. NOV EM BER 2017 | 119

NIGHTLIFE | listings 25F, 48 Column Building, Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 02 302 2557 Open daily: 11am-2am www.longtablebangkok.com

Moon Bar & Vertigo

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Hotel offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for a romantic rendezvous. 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar

Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm-7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit 2, Sukhumvit Soi 57 Open daily: 5pm-2am Tel: 02 797 0000 www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

31-32F, Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.bangkok.hilton.com

CLUB Levels

One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers who can’t get enough. 6F, 35, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 082 308 3246 Open daily: 9pm-2am www.facebook.com/levelsclub

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House— decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade, 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

PUBS The Drunken Leprechaun

Red Sky Bar

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open Daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

ThreeSixty Lounge

Go sky high in style above the Chao Phraya River at this grand rooftop venue. With 360° panorama vistas of the city, this lounge spot truly stands out from so many other sky bars in the city. 120 | NOV EM BER 2017

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours, and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton, 4, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

Mulligan’s Irish Bar

A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com

The Royal Oak

An old British enclave serving up delicious food in substantial portions,

draft beer, and weekly pub quizzes. There’s even a comedy club upstairs which is open every Friday. 595/10, Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 Tel: 02 662 1652 Open daily: 10am-1am www.royaloakthailand.com

LIVE MUSIC

Bamboo Bar

Bamboo Bar

A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com

SoulBar

Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 945 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok

The Zuk Bar

The ideal place for aperitifs or after dinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view, and enjoy live jazz by Coco Rouzier, Wednesday to Saturday nights and during the weekly Sunday brunch. The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sukhothai.com bangkok101.com

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

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Photo by Bentley Smith/Flickr.com

id you know that the Chinese Buddhist-style 8-tiered pagoda on the Western bank of the Chao Phraya River—known as the Chee Chin Khor Temple—is part of a larger compound built by the Chee Chin Khor Moral Uplifting Society? The society was formed in 1952, to perform charitable works, and has had several headquarters around Bangkok during the intervening years. This particular temple area only dates back to 1993, and the grand pagoda—given the royal name Mahathat Chedi Prajonchatri Thai-Chin Charoen—was officially opened in 2001 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the society and the 72nd birthday of His Majesty the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej. The society’s charitable works include providing student lunches, disaster relief, and distributing rice, blankets, and free coffins to the poor. The colourful pagoda and temple building are open every day from 8:30am to 4pm, and visitors can climb the pagoda to get a beautiful view of central Bangkok across the river. Cremations are also held in an adjacent temple, and the rising smoke provides a mystical atmosphere to this unique civic landmark. The easiest way to get to the Chee Chin Khor Temple (494 Somdet Chao Phraya Rd 17) is by boat, taking the Chaophraya River Express to the Siphraya Pier, and then taking the cross-river ferry to the Klong San pier. From the Klong San pier, walk through the market to Charoen Nakorn Road, turn right, and walk about two blocks down. You can also get on the free shuttle from Saphan Taksin pier that goes to the Baan Chao Phraya condominiums, as the temple is very nearby.

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