Th e i n a ug ur a l P h uk e t Fo o d & W i ne Ex po w il l show c a se t he v e r y be s t g o ur m e t c ui s i n e , t h e f i nest w ines & spirit s, a nd t he l ate st i n n o v a t i o n s i n lux ur y k i t chen produc t s & serv ic es.
It’s the food event of the year!
9-11 M AR CH 2018
RPMIEC • ROYAL PHUKET MARINA PHUKET • THAILAND
www.phuketfoodandwine.com Or g a n i s ed By
O f f i c i a l S u p p l i e r & M e d i a Pa r t n e r
I
Publisher’s Letter
f you were in any way unaware that Bangkok has been developing a large and sophisticated café culture over the past decade or so, well then... it’s time to wake up and smell the coffee! This city is full to the brim with caffeine fiends and java junkies who are connoisseurs of both beans and brews. And with coffee growing in abundance in Thailand’s Northern realms, there’s plenty of quality homegrown joe available as well. To put it simply, this town is boiling over with cool cafés and trendy tea houses, as well as artisan roasters who take their coffee very, very seriously, and a legion of “digital nomads” who have come to view coffee shops as hip interchangeable office spaces. To find out more, see our Best of BKK feature (starting on page 14). However, this month’s issue is also one in which we honour the memory of King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who passed away on October 13th, 2016. The cremation ceremony for His Majesty will take place on October 26th, and although it will be a sombre time, the tremendous legacy of Rama IX remains a symbol of hope and inspiration for Thai people. We pay our deepest respects to the late King and the Royal Family during this time, and in a special feature by Joe Cummings we take a look at the incredible craftsmanship that has gone into the ornate decorations for the King’s Royal Cremation, as well as the wealth of cultural and historical significance that this Royal Ceremony entails (see pg. 78). Along with these stories we also have a special travel feature on Chiang Mai (starting on pg. 50), coverage of the 19th International Festival of Dance & Music (pg. 74), and reviews of some new and notable restaurants and bars that are livening up the Bangkok social scene. All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101. Enjoy. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence info@talisman.asia. Publisher
What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
OCTOBER 2017 | 5
CONTENTS 14
CITY PULSE 10
Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok
12
My Bangkok Varatt Vichit Vadakan, founder of Roots Coffee
14
Best of BKK The range of Bangkok’s coffee bars and coffee suppliers is growing every year
25
Made in Thailand Two writers visit two different local roasteries
28
Out & About This city has no shortage of quirky and kooky cafés
30
Café Review Dean & Deluca’s new Silom branch
32
Café Listings Recommended cafés and teahouses
LIVING IN STYLE 38
Lifestyle Updates
40
Property Profile Sindhorn sets a new standard
SNAPSHOTS
40
54
TRAVEL 50
Chiang Mai 101 In this special 16-page travel destination feature we explore Chiang Mai
52
Focus on Chiang Mai Chiang Mai by bicycle; Café culture in Chiang Mai; See & do; Culture to couture
63
Plan Your Trip Upcoming special events in the Chiang Mai region
42
Tom’s Two Satangs On Ayutthaya
64
Focus on Lamphun Hidden treasures in this sleepy Northern hideaway
44
Bizarre Thailand Bangkok’s Rock n’ Roll Footnotes - Part 2
66
Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand
46
Very Thai Songs For Life – Part 1
48 Heritage Historic mosques in and around Bangkok
On the cover
Reverse image of an architectural drawing made by Fine Arts Department Officer Kokiat Thongphud, chief architect for the Royal Cremation site. The funeral for King Rama IX will be held on October 26th, 2017, and in our special commemorative photo feature (starting on pg. 78) the architect explains the concepts underlying his incredible design.
ART & CULTURE 68
Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city
72
Museum Spotlight The National Gallery
74
Special Report The 19th International Festival of Dance & Music
76
Cinema Scope This month’s film news and screenings
77
Music Makers Imagine Dragons perform a private concert in Bangkok
Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | OCTOBER 2017
bangkok101.com
CONTENTS 78
78
Special Commemorative Photo Feature Author Joe Cummings reports on the majestic artistry and architecture of the Royal Cremation site where King Rama IX’s funeral will be held
FOOD & DRINK 88
Food & Drink Updates
90
Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners
91
Hot Plates El Tapeo
92
Restaurant Reviews Sala Rim Naam; Eats Payao; Ruen Urai, Bistro M; Outlaw; Crepes & Co; Coast Beach Club & Bistro
100
Breaking Bread with Riley Sanders from Canvas
102
Eat Like Nym Vegetarian food at Paradise
104
Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok
95
113
NIGHTLIFE 106
Nightlife Updates
108
Bar Reviews FooJohn Building; Octave
110
Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok
SIGNING OFF 118
Did You Know?... ThaiHarvest|SOS, a food rescue foundation, collects surplus food from all over Bangkok and delivers it where it is most needed
ART DIRECTOR
CONTRIBUTING
PUBLISHED BY
Narong Srisaiya
PHOTOGRAPHERS
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Lekha Shankar, Megan Rogers
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120
Thanakrit Skulchartchai GENERAL MANAGER PUBLISHER
STRATEGISTS
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi
Mason Florence
Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen
SALES MANAGER
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond
SALES EXECUTIVE
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Parinya Krit-Hat
Jim Algie, Robin Banks, Luc Citrinot, Philip CornwellSmith, James Austin Farrel, Kelly Harvey, Micaela Marini Higgs, Reena Karim, John Krich, Rianka Mohan, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Gary Anthony Rutland, Craig Sauers, Lekha Shankar, Tom Vitayakul, Nadia Willan, Sara Lois Wilson
MANAGING EDITOR
Bruce Scott EDITOR-AT-LARGE
Joe Cummings EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS
Falida Angkhuro Anansit Sangsawang
Orn-uma Promsrikaew
Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia
Iyarinnara Boonrat Thipthida Sorrapim DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR
Chakkrit Rattanapan EVENT & SPECIAL PROJECTS
Wasin Banjerdtanakul
© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
CITY PULSE | metro beat
ITALIAN FESTIVAL IN THAILAND October 3-15
A photography exhibit at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (939 Rama 1 Rd), entitled ‘Spirituality in Southeast Asia’ features the captivating images of Andrea Pistolesi. Intimate and evocative, these photos are from the collection featured in the book Spirituality in Southeast Asia, dedicated to the diversity and intensity of the religious experiences in this part of the world. This exhibit is also being presented in memory of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej.
THAI HOLIDAYS
October 11
The Professor Trungjai Buranasomphom Recital Hall at Silpakorn University (22 Baromratchochonnanee Rd) is the venue for a piano recital by Luciano Bellini, a composer, conductor, and pianist who has written both symphonic and sacred music, as well as opera, ballet, electronic music, and songs for theatre, film, and TV. Showtime is 7pm and admission is free.
October 13, 23, & 26
This month there will be three official holidays in Thailand, two of which are sombre occasions commemorating the passing of King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Friday October 13th marks the one-year anniversary of the passing of King Rama IX, and has been set aside as a national holiday. Thursday October 26th is the scheduled date for the late monarch’s official funeral, and as such it is a holiday for most businesses—banks, government agencies, and others—but not all. To read more about this culturally and historically significant event, turn to our special commemorative feature (starting on page 78). Finally, Monday October 23rd is Chulalongkorn Day, an annual holiday that remembers the still revered King Rama V.
SEASONAL FESTS October 4, 31
Bangkok’s bastion of beer lovers know that Oktoberfest actually runs from mid-September to early October, and this year it finishes—officially—on October 4th. However, expect several local bars and restaurants to carry on the fun well into the month. Another seasonal celebration drawing near is Halloween, which isn’t celebrated widely in Thailand but closer to the date look for many bars, nightclubs, and restaurants to be getting into the general “spirit” of things. 10 | OCTOBER 2017
October 16
In celebration of the 150th anniversary of the birth of renowned Italian dramatist and author Luigi Pirandello, there will be a staging of the work L’Uomo Dal Fiore in Bocca (“the man with the flower in his mouth”), at the Music Hall at Chulalongkorn University (254 Phaya Thai Rd). The piece is a dialogue between a man who knows he is going die soon, and another man, who lives without questioning death. However, in this version the second character is a pianist, and the dialogue between the two becomes a remarkable example of the deep and mysterious connection between words and music. Start time is 7pm and admission is free.
October 18
The Music Hall at Chulalongkorn University (254 Phaya Thai Rd) welcomes to its stage Italy’s Nicola Tariello Quintet for an evening of music entitled ‘Sotto Le Stelle del Jazz: The Music of Paolo Conte’. Nicola Tariello is a young and talented trumpeter, and together with his quintet he will reinterpret some of the most evocative moments of the writing of the legendary Paolo Conte, bringing together different harmonies and jazz styles. The show begins at 7pm and admission is free. And if you miss this gig catch the same quintet the following night— Thursday, October 19th—at The Living Room jazz bar in the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit hotel (250 Sukhumvit Rd). Showtime is 9pm.
October 26
Fiorenzo Pascalucci is one of the most successful pianists in Italy at the moment, and this month he will be doing a solo piano recital here in Bangkok. His intensely personal and emotional interpretations showcase the works of composers such as George Gershwin and Claude Debussy. The recital begins at 7pm in the Music Hall at Chulalongkorn University (254 Phaya Thai Rd), and admission is free. For more information visit: www.facebook.com/italianfestivalthailand bangkok101.com
metro beat | CITY PULSE
FILM FESTIVALS AND SCREENINGS October 1
The Contemporary World Film Series continues at TK Park—on the 7th floor of CentralWorld (999/9 Rama I Rd) with the 2014 Kenyan film Veve, directed by Simon Mukali, being screened on Sunday October 1st. This Veve Kenyan-German production tells the tale of a bold politician who uses power and money for his personal and political ambitions. This screening is supported by the Embassy of Kenya, who will serve a variety of Kenyan snacks, and coffee and tea, after the screening. Kenyan Ambassador HE Patrick Wamoto will introduce the film. Start time is 4pm, and admission is B20. For reservations email: yuttinai@ tkpark.or.th, or filmforum17@gmail.com. www.tkpark.or.th
October 6-8
The Bangkok Screening Room, a 52 seat alternative screening room located in the Woof Pack Building (Sala Daeng Soi 1), is holding the first ever Irish Film Festival in Thailand, presented by the Irish Embassy. The festival will be screening three classic Irish movies, starting with The Quiet Man (1952), starring John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara. The other films are Ryan’s Daughter (1970), directed by David Lean, and Sing Street (2016), the tale of a Dublin teenager who forms a rock ‘n’ roll band to win the heart of an aspiring model. Tickets are B120 for adults, and B90 for children, students, and BKKSR members. All screenings are presented in English, with Thai subtitles. Check the festival website for exact screening times and dates. www.bkksr.com/irishfilmfestival The Quiet Man
October 2, 9, 16, 30
There are four screenings this month at the Foreign Correspondent’s Club of Thailand (518/5 Ploenchit Rd, Maneeya Center, Penthouse), which are part of the ongoing Monday night film series. On October 2nd catch The Circle, in which a young man in 1950s Zürich falls head over heels in love with a transvestite, and finds himself torn between his bourgeois existence and his commitment to homosexuality. On October 9th don’t miss the award- Man On Wire winning documentary Man On Wire, the riveting true story of Philippe Petit’s famous high-wire walk between the World Trade Centre’s twin towers on August 7th, 1974. On October 16th the film will be Bolshoi Babylon, which pulls back the curtain on the scandals and infighting plaguing this iconic Russian institution. Finally, on October 30th check out The New Rijksmuseum, an engrossing look behind-the-scenes as Amsterdam’s famed museum undergoes a major renovation. All films are free for members, B150 for non-members. www.fccthai.com bangkok101.com
CHEESE PLEASE October 6
If you love cheeses, especially the stinkin’ good ones that come from France, Italy, Holland, Switzerland, and England, then you won’t want to miss this month’s edition of Cheese at SO: For the Love of Cheese. Held on the first Friday of the month, at Mixo Bar up on the 9th floor of the SO Sofitel Bangkok (2, North Sathorn Rd ), this foodie event features two full hours of free-flow wine tipples with over 25 types of cheese nibbles ranging from Comté to Brillat-Savarin and Raclette—all served alongside artisan breads, cold cuts, charcuterie, and more. There’s even a live DJ providing the tunes. The event runs from 7pm till 9pm and is priced at B999++ per person. Call 02 624 0000 to make a reservation. www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com/offers/ cheese-at-so
THEATRE SHOW October 6-7
The Bangkok Community Theatre (BCT) is presenting the Tony-award winning play The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee, at Creative Industries - M Theatre (2884/2, New Phetchaburi Rd). The family-friendly story revolves around an eclectic group of 6th graders, each eager to win the local spelling bee (each for very different reasons). Hilarious and touching, with catchy songs as well, it’s a marvellously entertaining bit of theatrical fun. The Friday and Saturday shows (October 6-7) begin at 7:30 pm, while the matinee performance on Saturday October 7 begins at 2pm. Tickets are B850, and those who buy online will receive information about how to become an audience contestant. www.bangkokcommunitytheatre.com OCTOBER 2017 | 11
CITY PULSE | my bangkok
Varatt Vichit-Vadakan A
Meet the man behind Roast and Roots Coffee
Your company also supplies barista training. What makes a great barista? We train baristas for our wholesale partners, and it’s something very important to us. You can make the best coffee—from the farm, to processing, to roasting—but if the brewer doesn’t know how to extract its potential, then all the hard work is for nothing. A great barista is someone who understands and appreciates the journey of coffee. A great barista is also someone who understands what the consumer wants and delivers that in a nice and friendly way, so as to make coffee more approachable for more people.
t the age of 12, Bangok-born Varatt Vichit-Vadakan began attending school in the United States, and spent the next 12 years there. Upon returning to Thailand he began working in media, but when he opened his first coffee shop, a new career path began. When/how did you develop such a passion for coffee? In 2007 when I left my job in the media field and started doing freelance consulting, I spent a lot of time in coffee shops to meet my clients, and during that time I started wishing that the coffee shops would serve better quality coffee—considering the price I was paying for them. I started reading and learning about coffee just for fun, but the more I learned about it, the more intrigued I became about the whole journey of coffee, from farm to cup. So I learned about the brewing first, then later about roasting (studying both in Bangkok and abroad). Even now my education still continues, including farming and processing methods. When did your career in the coffee business begin? I started Roast first, in 2011, as a café that specialized in comfort food and freshly roasted coffee. We roasted right in the café, but soon found out that many of our customers didn’t appreciate the fact that we were roasting during service hours, and complained that it was too loud and smelled too much. So, in 2013 we moved out to another location and set up a roastery in Ekkamai. Also, we found that many members in the company wanted to learn and focus solely on coffee production, and that became the Roots Coffee team, who would focus on the pursuit of making great coffee from farm to cup. Why did you want to get into roasting? We decided to roast our own beans because back in 2011, when we started, there were not a lot of local micro12 | OCTOBER 2017
roasters specializing in specialty grade coffee. And once we started roasting our own coffee, some other restaurants, cafés, and hotels started asking us to supply to them. So we have been supporting other vendors that we feel want to serve quality coffee. Last year we opened our first coffee bar at The Commons. The feedback has been good and we will continue to open a few more places in the coming years. How large is the roasting facility? We are a micro-roastery, focusing only on specialty grade coffee beans, so our facility is not big. We are currently in Ekkamai, where we roast roughly around 2.5 tons a month, but have a plan to move to a bigger location. How do you source your coffee beans? We source coffee beans from all around the world through our trusted partners/ traders in the US, UK, and one from Europe. However, during the past four years we have focused a lot more on locally grown coffee, and have since started working with farmers and processors to source more specialty grade beans. We have a few processing partners, like Khun Ray Buerger from Thai High Ventures—just to name one— who has experimented with us using different coffee processing methods. In fact, the coffee that I used which won the National Barista Championship was a local coffee from him.
Other than your own, which are some of your favourite cafés in Bangkok? There are many cafés that I like, including Ceresia Coffee on Sukhumvit Soi 33 (to name but one). Their goal is to serve freshly roasted specialty coffee and they do it really well. The place is not pretentious, or over-decorated, and you know from the first moment that they focus on delivering fresh coffee. I appreciate that. If it’s a bakery café, then I choose Brooklyn Baker. They focus on making their own bread and cakes and also serve nice coffee. Their space is simple but you know they put a lot of care into the things they make. How did the Supanniga Eating Room x Roots Coffee restaurant idea begin? It was a partnership that happened a little unexpectedly to be honest! But we both have always admired each other’s brands, and I guess the riverside location brought us together. We knew it should be a unique Thai experience, as a lot of the people there are foreigners, so we decided to partner up and deliver something unprecedented for both brands. It’s also a chance for Roots to showcase some of the special Thai coffee that we source as well, paired with delicious Thai desserts. interview by Bruce Scott www.rootsbkk.com bangkok101.com
ALL NEW STILL LEGENDARY REOPENING IN NOVEMBER
THE SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK South Sathorn Road, Bangkok +66 (0) 2344 8888 www.sukhothai.com
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Good Things Brewing Discovering some gems amongst the city’s café cornucopia By Micaela Marini Higgs
I
t’s easy to get a coffee in Bangkok. Walk down any soi and you can almost always find a Starbucks, a photogenic café, or stall serving kafe boran strained through a sock. But finding a really good coffee? That can be a little more difficult. Thankfully, each year we get a few more options in this town. With a growing focus on Thai beans, more and more cafés around the city have begun priding themselves on their selections from local roasters, and their range of international options. At the same time, baristas seem to be getting a bit friendlier. Sure, you can still find someone looking very serious as they use a complicated procedure to make an average coffee, but why bother when there are so many brewers eager to chat about their menus and drinks? If you’re hoping to have a great coffee and a conversation with someone who knows their stuff, here are our top picks for places you might not have had a chance to try yet but definitely should. From malls to shipping containers, these are the six places we keep returning to.
EKKAMAI MACCHIATO In a cozy house with white walls and wood floors, Ekkamai Macchiato (6/2, Ekkamai Soi 12) attracts customers with its quality coffee and stylish setting. While you’re sure to see a few people who’ve come here for the sole purpose of taking Instagram shots in this minimalistic café, others have been drawn here by the menu, which offers B100 coffees, sourced from local roaster Bottomless. With two blends to choose from, the Thai, Brazilian, and Ethiopian mix is fruity and recommended for hot drinks. Order it either as an espresso, smooth and strong, or in a cappuccino, dense and rich. The Thai, Colombian, and Guatemalan blend, which they use primarily in iced drinks, has a strong chocolate and nutty flavour, making for a satisfying iced latte. If you want to be really indulgent and upgrade your drink, the adult Affogato (B180) makes great use of this latter blend, combining it with Grand Marnier and chocolate ice cream. The drink perfectly balances these complimentary flavours, the suggestive hint of orange and the nuttiness of the coffee cutting through the richness of the 14 | OCTOBER 2017
ice cream to keep it from being overly sweet. With its cute décor and generous selection, this cafe offers something for Instagrammers and coffee lovers alike. Open Monday and Wednesday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, Tuesday from 8am to 4pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 6pm.
KAIZEN Narrow, and fitted out totally in white, Kaizen (582/5, Tai Ping Tower) was opened two years ago with the intention of bringing serious coffee to Bangkok. In this café in the north end of Ekkamai you’ll find a crowd of caffeine lovers seated at tables along a single bench facing the counter, with a spiral staircase leading to more seating upstairs. Though prices are high compared to others in the area, they’re definitely justified given the quality of the drinks and the variety of the menu. Check the board next to the counter to find a list of the current beans and blends available. As you’re reading, it’s likely a barista will swoop in to ask questions about what you like and suggest options, along with different brew methods for each bean. If there are too many customers for personalized help, the menu includes tasting notes and suggestions to assist you in navigating all of the available options. We’d recommend checking the board to see what kind of 18-hour nitro-cold brew (B150) is on tap. If you want to stick with classics, try the house blend, New Horizons, with an espresso (B100) or flat white (B120) for an intensely floral and fruity flavour. You can even buy a 250-gram bag to take home for just B675. Open daily from 8am to 6pm.
GRIND SIZE With turquoise walls and stylish murals, this Bangkok newcomer’s distinctive look and personality set it apart from the chic-industrial décor favoured by most of the city’s coffee shops. With quality coffee, complimentary butterfly pea tea, and a classic brunch menu, Grind Size (Shinsen Fish Market, Sukhumvit Soi 39) makes for a great place to catch up with friends. Featuring two blends from Thai micro-roasters based in Bangkok and Chiang Mai, information about each can be found written on the wall and window, and the staff is happy to talk through the menu and make recommendations based on your preferences. The BKK bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
Getting the perfect pour at Kaizen bangkok101.com
OCTOBER 2017 | 15
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Above: Grind Size; Below: Sarnie’s Blend is made using beans from Thailand, Laos, Brazil, Indonesia, and El Salvador, and has a non-acidic chocolate flavour that compliments cold beverages. Try it in the iced latte (B100), where the nutty blend adds lightness to the milkiness of the drink. The CNX Blend is made just using beans from Thailand and Brazil, and has a far fruitier flavour, making it an excellent choice for hot espresso drinks like the flat white (B100) where the sweetness of the coffee creates a satisfying balance of flavours. If you prefer black coffee, you can’t go wrong with their house brew (Thai beans B120, International B160). When you’re done, enjoy a glass of their complimentary butterfly pea tea. Open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday to Sunday from 8am to 8pm.
SARNIES The team behind one of Singapore’s hippest coffee roasters have made their way to Bangkok, joining a garden shared by tropical bar Coastal and Thai restaurant Kram, located in the residential area north of Phrom Phong. Occupying two shipping containers fitted with large windows, Sarnies (113 Phop Mit Alley) is currently focused on wholesale distribution and creating custom roasts for cafes across town. 16 | OCTOBER 2017
One container holds their roasting set-up, the other the café—a single counter flanked by seven seats. Though you’re literally rubbing elbows with other customers, the windows and garden setting keep the space from feeling claustrophobic. The atmosphere is laid-back and jovial, making this the sort of place you can visit alone and trust you’ll make a few new friends Strike up a conversation with the barista and make sure to ask about off-the-menu options. Since Sarnies roasts their own coffee, and they are constantly testing out different blends and flavour profiles, there’s always the opportunity to order something new. One drink worth trying that you won’t find on their menu is the Orange Mocha (B140), a rich and subtly citrusy coffee blend made by infusing fresh orange zest with homemade chocolate syrup. Another excellent option is their cold drip coffee (B100), which varies daily and is a constant source of experimentation. When we visited the Thai, El Salvadorian, and Ethiopian blend made for a refreshingly clean and nutty flavour. With a wide selection of filter coffees (B150) from around the world, serious coffee lovers are sure to find their perfect brew. Open Thursdays and Fridays from 9am to 5pm.
bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
Sarnie’s
Some Time Blue
Siwilai Café
SIWILAI CAFÉ A mall isn’t the usual venue for high-quality coffee, but thanks to its location Siwilai Café (5F Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd) is one of the rare cafés in Bangkok with a view—from their balcony you can look out over the lush neighbourhood surrounding the British embassy. With minimalist wood furniture, a sleek marble coffee bar, and quiet mood music, Siwilai is much more relaxed and comfortable than the retail spaces that surround it, making it an easy place to come and spend an afternoon. Using a Thai-Brazilian medium roast from Pacamara Coffee Roasters, the coffee here is bold and flavourful. The Piccolo Latte (B110) pleasantly showcases the acidity of the coffee, while in their cappuccino (B120) the flavour is slightly more subdued. Beyond their espresso offerings, the citrusy Cold Brew (B120) offers an entirely unique take on 12-hour brewed coffee by infusing it with lime and lemon, serving it with a tangerine wedge in the glass. The flavours come in waves, the lime adding a fresh zest that heightens the citrus flavours, creating an unexpected compliment to the coffee. In the Black & Nuts (B140) you’ll find a classic mix of flavours, with black coffee, peanut butter milk, and cream topped with toasted peanuts. The taste of the blend isn’t coffee-forward, but the peanut butter milk is subtle enough that the coffee does add a slight sweetness that makes the mix surprisingly refreshing. Order one of their freshly baked desserts or take advantage of their promotion bangkok101.com
running through the end of October to get a free cookie when you post a photo of your coffee on social media. Open daily from 10am to 8pm.
SOME TIME BLUE Located in the residential side of Ari, Some Time Blue (Soi Phaholyothin 2) is the newest venture by Sutida Srirungthum, the winner of the National Thailand Brewers Cup in 2016 and the previous face of Sutdrip. The interior is Victorian-inspired décor, with heavy furniture pieces such as marble-topped tables and mismatched upholstered wood chairs, but modern accents sprinkled throughout the space keep it from feeling overly stuffy. Large windows balance out the café’s muted lighting, making the cozy space a comfortable spot to enjoy some of the city’s best coffee and a book. An expertly pulled espresso shot (B55) is a great start, but if you’re hoping to experiment more, try something from their extensive hot drip menu, which offers a range of roasts and international beans along with tasting notes. Our favourite was the Ethiopian (B180), which was slightly acidic and sweet. Even though they’re excellent, these drinks are easily overshadowed by the Gravity Latte (B90), a deceptively simple-sounding cold latte served without ice, and if you can only order one thing make it this. Phenomenally smooth and silky, the drink is dense and creamy, the coffee bursting with a natural sweetness and richness that makes for an unexpectedly decadent flavour. Enjoy your brew of choice with one of their freshly baked tarts or cakes. Open weekdays from 9am to 7pm, Saturday from 10:30am to 9pm, and Sunday from 10:30am to 7pm. OCTOBER 2017 | 17
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Café Considerations for a Wandering Workforce Digital nomads love Thailand, even if Thai immigration doesn’t always love them By Micaela Marini Higgs
W
ith the amount of co-working spaces sprouting up across Bangkok it’s easy for Digital Nomads—those clever individuals who leverage technology in order to work remotely and live an independent and nomadic lifestyle—to buy a monthly membership and settle in. But working in the same place each day kind of defeats one of the greatest joys of being a digital nomad. However, even though there seems to be new cafes opening in Bangkok each day, almost all tempting passers by with free Wi-Fi, finding a great place to actually work is deceptively difficult. With this in mind we’ve collected some of the best places where you can spend a few hours without having to listen to bad cover music, or risk people sticking their elbows in your face as they try to take the 50th photo of their latte. We’ve taken into account the boring practical stuff like decent internet, electrical outlets, and relative proximity to the BTS, and narrowed that list to include the kinds of places where the staff—and seats—make it comfortable to hang out and get some work done.
EASE CAFE & CO-WORKING SPACE Hidden down a dead-end soi, Ease Cafe & Co-Working Space (Soi Chua Chit) is just a five-minute walk from the Ari BTS station, and a stone’s throw from all the action. Easily accessible and close enough to the neighbourhood’s street food, shophouses, and restaurants that you can quickly slip away for lunch, the café sits far enough away from the main street that the noise level rarely rises beyond a low murmur. 18 | OCTOBER 2017
With complimentary water, fast internet, and extension cords everywhere, the café is designed with freelancers and students in mind. But unlike other co-working spaces, they don’t charge an entry fee. With a standard range of drinks, we’d recommend their strong and nutty Americano (B70), milky Cappuccino (B80), or one of their sweeter staples, like the Ease Honey (B100), a mix of espresso, foamed milk, and a generous amount of honey, all served over ice. Open late and filled with a studious mix of foreigners and locals, it’s easy to spend a whole day working in this bright and comfortable space. Open daily from 10am to 10pm.
ARAN BICICLETTA Far removed from Ari’s foot traffic, to get to Aran Bicicletta (Soi Phaholyothin 2) you have to wind your way past police housing and through residential streets. Your reward will be a quiet and cozy café with walls covered in bicycles, a large window looking out onto the road, and few distractions or disruptions. With only a handful of tables, if you visit during the week there’s a good bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
chance you’ll only see one or two other customers. Their coffee is more subtle than strong, making their Cappuccino (B60) and Americano (B55) great options. With electrical outlets, great internet, and an eclectic mix of music, it’s easy for the hours to fly by. If you’re feeling peckish, head through the glass doors in the back where you’ll find a patio flanked by a small restaurant serving up Thai food to people on their lunch breaks. To satisfy your sweet tooth, the café also serves a small selection of homemade desserts and ice cream. Open daily from 9am to 9pm.
IWANE GOES NATURE If you’re sick of spending all your time indoors, Iwane Goes Nature (14, Sukhumvit Soi 23) offers a large covered deck that includes electrical outlets and plenty of seating. Grab one of the sofas or tables and plug in. The internet is reliable and with shade and fans you can spend time in the outdoors without overheating. And since most customers prefer the air-conditioned interior of the café, you’ll often have the deck to yourself. With a full menu of salads, sandwiches, and desserts, it’s easy to spend the whole day here, and the staff doesn’t seem to mind how long you hang around. It’s also open late into the evening, so you can head here when the city’s other cafés have closed but your workday hasn’t finished. The atmosphere outweighs the coffee, which isn’t terrible but is definitely not up to snob standards. bangkok101.com
Drinks like their cold Americano (B70) and Cappuccino (B80) are typically accompanied by bite-sized pieces of brownie or other treats from their bakery, and the menu includes real fruit Smoothies (B100) along with a variety of teas and milkshakes. Open daily from 7:30am to midnight.
HOLEY ARTISAN BAKERY Besides selling some of the best fresh bread in Bangkok, Holey Artisan Bakery (245/12, Sukhumvit Soi 31) is one of those seemingly rare cafes where you can order—and actually receive—a Cappuccino (B100) that arrives topped
with a generous amount of foamed milk. With power outlets next to many of their tables, reliable internet, muted music, and a tempting array of pastries to treat yourself with once you’ve met your deadline, this is one of the city’s most comfortable cafés to work from. Since the few tables on the ground floor are usually occupied by families with children, or friends catching up, order a drink at the counter and head upstairs. The coffee here is as good as the fresh-baked bread, so if you’re not in the mood for a cappuccino, try a slightly bitter Espresso (B80) or strongly brewed Drip Coffee (B80). With floor-to-ceiling windows the 2nd floor is spacious and rarely busy—popular among people who OCTOBER 2017 | 19
CITY PULSE | best of bkk want room to spread out and work in peace. Because of their range of sandwiches and vegetarian options, with prices ranging from B200 to B350, it’s also a great place to meet collaborators for informal meetings. Open weekdays from 7am to 5pm, and Saturday to Sunday from 7am to 7pm.
TRIPLE THE COFFEE HOUSE In a renovated house that sits down a quiet soi directly between Ekkamai and Thong Lor, Triple The Coffee House (41, Sukhumvit Soi 59) offers a cozy industrial space removed from the bustle of Sukhumvit. With a serious focus on coffee, they brew using blends from Thai roaster Pacamara, focussing on medium and light roasts. You can
surrounded by shrubbery, making this an easy spot to spend a few hours away from the rest of Bangkok. If you get hungry, the menu offers a wide selection of breakfast staples, freshly baked breads, sandwiches, pizzas, and seafood, with prices for meals ranging from B130 to B450. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 8am to 8pm, and Sunday from 9am to 8pm.
THE BOX
pick which singleorigin bean to have as a Drip Coffee (B110), and we enjoyed the light and citric Honduran brew. A 100 percent Arabica coffee is always used for their espresso offerings, giving their Espresso Shot (B95) a buttery and tangy finish. If you don’t like your coffee black, try the rich Piccolo Latte (B90) for a pleasantly caffeinated buzz. With a steady stream of people popping in for a quick coffee throughout the day, it’s easy to score one of the handful of tables with access to an outlet. There’s comfortable seats, plenty of natural light, and a patio 20 | OCTOBER 2017
The Thailand Creative & Design Center (TCDC) found a new home in the old Grand Postal Office building earlier this year, offering one of the city’s best co-working spaces with the cheapest annual memberships (B1,200). With bright lighting, subdued classical music, large tables, and an electrical outlet available at every turn, this space has quickly become popular among students as well as freelancers, many of whom can be seen nursing a drink from The Box (5F, TCDC, 1160 Charoen Krung Rd). Located on the 5th floor, beside the library entrance, this café offers a variety of cheap drinks—nothing costs more than B75—of which we’d recommend their sweet and silky Matcha Latte (B65) or the milky Cappuccino (B60). With a cluster of sofas and tables located in front of the cafe, there’s plenty of space for you to set up for free if you decide not to pay for entrance into the library. If you do pony up for membership, or the daily fee (B100), carry your drink into the spacious work areas and during your breaks browse the wide selection of international magazines and books for inspiration. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30am to 9pm. bangkok101.com
CUISINE ART
Kha Ghob Tod Ghratiem Prigthai Kha Ghob Tod Ghratiem Prigthai is deep-fried frog legs with garlic and pepper. Served with fresh vegetables and Sriracha sauce, it is one of the dishes in Ruen Urai’s new ‘Isaan Interpretations’ menu. These special offerings are inspired by rustic Northeastern Thai, or Isaan, cuisine. Experience fine Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Open from noon to 11 p.m.
Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Coffee Incorporated
In conversation with Charles Kutner, a native of Los Angeles, California, now Chief Sales & Marketing Officer at Boncafé (Thailand) Co., Ltd.
Originally established in Singapore in 1962, the Boncafé brand came to Thailand in 1991. What were the initial obstacles the company had to overcome? Well, I only began with Boncafé in 2004, but since the beginning the biggest challenge is Thailand itself, which has traditionally been an instant coffee market. Even today, to a degree, the market still skews more towards instant coffee, but that is changing—at a very fast rate! Everyday there are so many coffee shops opening, both in Bangkok and across the country. Fresh coffee has also become a must in the modern
22 | OCTOBER 2017
office today, and is expected by employees in both Thai companies and multi-national corporations. When did Boncafé set up the manufacturing facility in Chonburi, and what is it capable of doing? We have been roasting in Thailand since the company was established here. We sell coffee in so many numerous packaging styles that our output fits almost all possible uses. We have just added a large roaster which will increase our capacity substantially. In addition, we are the only roaster in Southeast Asia with automated coffee capsule production.
Are all your beans sourced from within Thailand? From the outset Boncafé has always had a focus on supporting Thai farmers and the Thai coffee industry and continues to do so today. The reality though is Thailand does not have enough coffee to supply the demand, and the market is changing, especially in demand for higher quality Arabica beans. Where can people find Boncafé products? As the nation’s leading fresh coffee brand our product line is available from all major retailers across the country. Plus, we have 17 branches across the country where consumers and restaurants/ owners can see our complete line of coffee machines and coffee blends. bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE Charles Kutner
Can you explain a bit about the coffee machines that you import, distribute, and service? We carry a wide range of coffee machine in all price ranges. We import from Italy, Spain, Switzerland, and China. The most famous brand we supply is La Marzocco, a very premium espresso machine from Italy used in the finest coffee shops around the world. Today it’s even used in the home for those that want the best cup of coffee. We also carry a brand called Jura, a Swiss designed line which is also very popular, but more so in the office and home environment. As of now we service the machines through our 17 branches across the country.
Could someone wanting to open up a new café come to you for everything they’d need? If someone is opening a coffee shop we can provide the machinery as well as full training at no cost. This includes teaching baristas how to make all coffee recipes, and also non-coffee beverages. Any drinks that a coffee shop sells we can teach them how to make them.
Boncafé was purchased by the Massimo Zanetti Beverage Group in 2015. The benefit has been having access to great expertise globally with major operations in Europe and the US. The biggest difference is the opportunity to work with global brands like Segafredo, from Italy, and Hills Bros. Coffee (a major coffee brand in Japan and the US). So, our customers have even more choice today.
Tell us about the Boncafé Academy and the barista training. Our focus has always been to educating and training our customers. The Boncafé Academy is the largest coffee training programme in Thailand, and possibly Asia. We hold over 50 workshops every month across the country, educating thousands of restaurant and coffee shop owners.
What’s your personal favourite type of coffee? I like a long black. It gives me the opportunity to try and experience the difference in flavours of coffees from different regions. But it wasn’t always like that for me. It used to be a simple cappuccino or just a brewed coffee with cold milk. Well, I am American after all! interview by Bruce Scott
How are things different now that you are part of the Massimo Zanetti group? bangkok101.com
Boncafé Thailand
21F, Muang Thai-Phatra Tower 2 Ratchadaphisek Rd, Huay Kwang Tel: 02 693 2570 www.boncafe.co.th OCTOBER 2017 | 23
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Sophisticated Sips
Luxurious locales to indulge in coffee, tea, and sweet & savoury snacks THE PANTRY: Serious java junkies are going to want to make a stop at The Pantry, the newly opened coffee bar on the 2nd floor of the W Bangkok hotel (106 North Sathorn Rd), open daily from noon to 10:30pm. The beverage menu tempts café connoisseurs with a selection of local and international single origin bean choices, as well as the promise of “experimental coffees”, including slow pour and cold drip. Slow pour, or “pour over”, involves pouring hot water over and through the grounds to extract the maximum coffee flavours, and the single origin beans—from local roasters CoffeeWorks— worthy of such attention are sourced from Rwanda, Papua New Guinea, Colombia, Brazil, and even Thailand (Chiang Mai). The coffee menu also includes detailed tasting notes and information about the altitude at which the coffee is grown. Meanwhile, the cold drip coffee, which utilizes the Chiang Mai beans, undergoes a cold drip extraction over a 10-hour period, followed by a minimum three days of aging. The result is a strong dynamic coffee, with a smooth finish, that comes in its own classy glass bottle. Other menu options include the tried and true robust espresso-style coffees (americano, long black, etc), the ever popular white coffees (lattes, flat white, macchiato, etc), and iced coffees, including Affogato (espresso served over ice cream). There’s also non-coffee beverages available, including a wide selection of TWG teas (both regular and refreshing cold brew style), healthy slow pressed juices, smoothies, craft beers, cocktails, and more. You’ll also find cakes, cookies and other sweets available, or order more substantial fare from The Kitchen Table restaurant, located on the same floor. www.whotelbangkok.com
OTHER RECOMMENDED CLASSY CAFÉS LIVING ROOM: The recently opened Park Hyatt Bangkok (Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Rd) serves a daily afternoon tea from 2pm till 5pm in the Living Room, the hotel’s sophisticated 9th floor lounge area. Featuring an open-air terrace and flanked by eight-metre high windows, this serene light-filled space will be the perfect spot when tea time beckons. Served with Mariage Frères tea or Illy coffee, and featuring a variety of sweet and or savoury nibbles, the set price is B700++ for one, B1,200++ for two. bangkok.park.hyatt.com THE SALON: Located on the lobby level, The Salon at The Sukhothai Bangkok (13/3 South Sathorn Rd) is a relaxing venue for a coffee, light cocktails, snacks, and afternoon tea. In addition, every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday—from 2pm till 5pm—there’s a ‘Chocolate Buffet’ on offer (a chocoholic’s dream!) for just B990++ per person. www.sukhothai.com 24 | OCTOBER 2017
VERTIGO TOO: For the highest high-tea in town, check out the ‘High Tea Set’ at Vertigo Too, on the 60th floor of the Banyan Tree Bangkok hotel (21/100 South Sathorn Rd). Served from 1pm till 5pm, guests can choose either a pot of tea, or a floral cocktail or mocktail (B1,100++), and even add one glass of Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial (B1,299 ++). And to “top” it off, sweet and savoury nibbles and panoramic views of the city. www.banyantree.com DELI BY CONRAD: Unwind at the Conrad Bangkok (87 Witthayu Rd) hotel’s informal Deli by Conrad where a selection of the finest coffees are on offer, alongside an array of healthy sandwiches, rejuvenating fruit juices, delicious cakes, and tempting pastries. Open daily from 10am till 8pm. conradhotels3.hilton.com bangkok101.com
made in thailand | CITY PULSE
Rival Roasters
Two writers visit two different Bangkok-based roasteries, each of which offers specialized cupping and roasting courses RED DIAMOND: Are you a coffee nerd? Do you know the elevation of where your coffee beans were planted? Then a coffee cupping course at Red Diamond (733 Sangkhom Songkhro Rd) may just be for you.
The first thing to know about a coffee cupping course is what it is not. It’s not an excuse to sip premium coffees from around the world. It is a course, meaning it is trying to educate you on sensory appreciation of coffee—why certain coffees may taste a certain way—and possibly train you to become a coffee judge. The course takes place in classrooms, and some of the tasting involves solutions or esters to familiarize your taste buds with both flavours and off-flavours. In this regard, it is similar to wine or beer appreciation classes. Red Diamond is the new kid on the block in Bangkok, offering a cupping course (B4,000) along with a basic barista course (B4,500), as well as advance brewing (B8,000) and roasting (B8,000) courses. bangkok101.com
Nicholas Haw (left), a barista originally from South Africa, said the backbone of Red Diamond is teaching and roasting for other companies, but the space on the corner of Sangkhom Songkhro and Pradit Manutham roads, right underneath the Ekkamai-Ram Intra Expressway, does a blistering business as a café as well. The café has two levels, enrobed in concrete and mesh metal fencing. It features big sliding warehouse doors and pounds hip-hop. There are large containers, bags, and even test tubes of coffee beans everywhere in the building, as well as more machines related to coffee than one would think is humanly possible to acquire. Upstairs customers can play vintage video games under old industrial light fixtures, and the baristas wear one heat-resistant black glove, à la Luke Skywalker. As should be obvious, Red Diamond wants to be fun, but it is also deadly serious about coffee. The company has its own coffee farm in Chiang Rai and you can drink awardwinning cups of coffee from around the world at the café, with espressos starting from B120. “We are not coffee snobs here,” said Haw. “Our goal is to promote education and appreciation, not stop people from going to the coffee shops they like. The quality of coffee shops in Bangkok is very good in general. There are a few poor ones, but the market will weed them out.” The arrival of Red Diamond in Bangkok shows that specialization for coffee has reached its apex in the capital, similar to the evolution of whiskey, wine, and chocolate culture. Coffee has been popular in Chiang Mai for a while, owing mostly to the beans they serve being produced in the hills of the North.
“Chiang Mai has a healthy coffee culture, but it’s kind of a monoculture—they use only Thai beans,” remarks OCTOBER 2017 | 25
CITY PULSE | made in thailand Haw as he slowly pours hot water from a fake copper pot into a coffee filter placed on a scale. “In order to improve their coffee there, they need to open up to other kinds of coffee beans, and invite in outsiders to share their knowledge. Thai growers have recently started to enter international coffee competitions and have had decent results. No market in the world has ever reached global prominence without opening up to outside competition and testing its products.” Most of the students in Red Diamond’s coffee courses are enthusiasts, according to Haw; people working in the coffee business and even some farmers who want to be able to assess how they can produce a better bean. The tastings take place in a “laboratory”, often with all the lights off save one red bulb, similar to a photographer’s darkroom (or the entrance to a whorehouse). It could be a literal interpretation of the phrase “blind taste test”, or perhaps the beans are light-sensitive. Students will learn about the factors that can make aroma volatile, of which there are multitudes. Yes, the elevation of the coffee farm does affect the enzymes in the bean, which plays a part in the aroma produced. The enzymatic elements in coffee beans are lighter in molecular weight than other components, so they rise quicker than other aromas. The cupping course also covers the three main types of coffee processing methods: wet, dry, and honey. Indonesia has its own method for processing coffee because it rains so much there. In that country they throw away the cherry—the fruit covering the bean—and put the beans out in the sun to dry as quickly as possible because they’ve already been exposed to so much moisture. You might be surprised to know a typical cup of coffee is 98-99 percent water and only 1-2 percent coffee beans. The fine folks at Red Diamond are keen to fill you in on other information through their Intercof Academy courses, licensed by both the Specialty Coffee Associations of America and Europe. Red Diamond is open from 11am to 8pm, Tuesday to Sunday. To find out more about the times and dates of upcoming courses, call 085 044 2662 or visit www. facebook.com/reddiamondcafe. by Robin Banks BIY COFFEE BAR: Although it’s centrally located—just a stone’s throw from the Hua Lamphong railway station— the recently opened BIY Coffee Bar is somewhat easy to miss, as it’s hidden away on the 2nd floor of the Prime Station Hotel (23/34 Tri Mit Rd). But if you’re a selfconfessed coffee geek you probably already know about the café’s location and the fact that BIY, which stands 26 | OCTOBER 2017
for “brew-it-yourself”, is also a showroom for the online coffee equipment shop Beans Here. The white-walled interior is minimal, to say the least, but large floor to ceiling windows at one end of the room let in plenty of daylight. And while you couldn’t exactly classify it as “cozy”, it’s bright and clean and what’s evident from the get go that the focus here is on coffee… pure and simple.
The man in charge is roaster and co-owner Sirichai ‘So’ Sakornvisava (above), who offers one-day roasting courses for B3,000 per person, as well as cupping classes which vary in price depending on the plantations being sampled. On a recent Sunday afternoon I attended a cupping class being offered for free—registration is essential however—which showcased coffees from three different farms in the Mae Hong Son region of Northern Thailand. I was accompanied in the class by about a dozen other coffee enthusiasts— of all ages, but all were Thai—and while the course was given in Thai, Khun So speaks excellent bangkok101.com
made in thailand | CITY PULSE English and was able to answer all my questions and explain to me the procedures involved in a proper cupping session. The session begins with the coffee beans being weighed out into exact portions, then ground and put into plain transparent glasses (each covered by a glass saucer) that are then arranged on the two large tables being used for the tastings. While the water is being heated, the students walk from one set of cups to the other, briefly removing the saucer lid and deeply inhaling the aromas of the different beans, which in turn have gone through different preparation and roasting processes. When the water has reached the correct and precise temperature, it is poured onto the grounds—again, in specific portions—and the coffee now steeps for four minutes. When the allotted time is up, students then take a spoon and slowly push away the top layer “crust” (bubbles and stray grounds) that has formed on the surface. Having done this three times we are then instructed to inhale deeply the true aroma of the brewed coffee. Finally, after carefully removing completely the remaining crust and crema with our spoons, we then take a spoonful of unadulterated coffee and noisily slurp it into our mouths. The sound of a dozen adults making exaggerated suction noises is quite amusing at first, but Khun So explains that the slurping action aerates the
For the beginner it might be difficult to distinguish too much difference between each coffee sample, and even So admits that the coffees we are sampling are all Arabica beans, grown in roughly the same region, but he adds that the different altitudes they are grown at, coupled with the different washing and roasting methods, do give some a rich, more robust flavour, and others a lighter more floral quality. In the end it was an interesting and informative experience, but a far cry from a Sunday afternoon spent “enjoying” a perfectly prepared coffee, and finishing the entire cup. For that, you’re better off just ordering a slow pour coffee (B120) from the handful of roasts on offer each day—check the whiteboard behind the counter for the daily offerings—and if you “brew-it-yourself” you get a 20 percent discount. The minimal menu also includes a small selection of teas, as well as a few dessert-type sweets, and you can purchase bags of their roasted beans which the staff will grind to your coffee maker’s specifications. BIY Coffee Bar is open from 10:30am to 6:30pm, Saturday to Thursday. To find out more about the times and dates of upcoming courses, call 084 514 2914 or visit www.facebook.com/biybybeanshere. by Bruce Scott
coffee and enhances the ability to distinguish the flavours. After each taste students dip their spoon into glasses of clear water before trying the next coffee sample. And while novices like me swallow the finished product (cuz we just love coffee), the java purists have a paper cup close at hand and spit their sips out after “tasting” the brew. bangkok101.com
OCTOBER 2017 | 27
CITY PULSE | out & about
Quirky Cafés
Definitely not your run of the mill coffee joints By Kelly Harvey
I
n recent years, a wave of cafés opted for the ubiquitous “minimalist industrial-chic” style setting to appease the coffee-crazy crowds of Bangkok. But there are some that took an alternative approach to draw in customers, offering unique—and highly Instagramable— experiences rather than just a quick cup of joe. From cute and cuddly animal cafés, to magical creature themed, to everything durian, Bangkok’s café scene has something for everyone. We’ve run down five of the city’s quirkiest cafés to try on your next coffee outing. Some weird, some wacky, and some wonderful; perfect to visit when you have guests in town, or even just for a change of (colourful) scenery.
AFTER YOU DURIAN: Sitting alongside the everpopular After You café, on the ground floor of Siam Paragon (Rama 1 Rd), After You Durian adds the king of tropical fruit to its much loved signature dishes. Nestled in an enclosed partition—to help control the pungent smell and not bother non-durian eaters—this quirky café serves up a durian packed menu including Durian Sticky Rice Honey Toast (B285 without sticky rice/B325 with sticky rice) and Kakigori (B345) filled with fresh durian and sticky rice and topped with a durian and coconut cream and durian flavoured ice cream. Or for something a little less intense, opt for the Durian Crumbstick (B95), a durianshaped ice cream on a stick, or a Durian Frappe (B145). The café is open daily from 10am to 10:30pm. www.afteryoudessertcafe.com 28 | OCTOBER 2017
UNICORN CAFÉ: Situated right on the corner of Sathorn Soi 8 and Silom Soi 3, with a giant winged unicorn statue at the entrance and a rainbow coloured exterior, the Unicorn Café is pretty hard to miss. The inside is just as colourful as the exterior, with unicorn wallpaper, unicorn carpeting, more unicorn statues, powder blue and pink furniture, and unicorn dolls and toys scattered everywhere—even hanging from the ceiling. Unicorn onesies are also available to rent during your visit (B100), or to buy (B1,200). The menu too features a number of colourful, unicorn-themed dishes, including Unicorn Rainbow Toast (B190), pastel-coloured Unicorn Waffles (B190), a Unicorn Chocolate Brownie à la Mode (B170), rainbow-coloured Spaghetti Carbonara (B200), and Unicorn Rainbow Cheeseburgers (B250) served with French fry horns. A range of rainbow cakes, frappes, sodas, and hot and cold coffees are also available. The Unicorn Café opened in 2013 and due to its popularity has since doubled in size. In 2016, it even made headlines across the world and was featured on Cosmopolitan’s website. You can visit for yourself any Tuesday to Sunday, from 12 noon to 8pm. www.facebook.com/unicornbrand MERMAID CASTLE SIAM: The brainchild of Yuri Kuliga, the recently opened Mermaid Castle Siam in Siam Square is the newest, and much bigger version of bangkok101.com
out & about | CITY PULSE the Mermaid Island Café, located in Rangsit. Earlier this year, news of the original café was reported on PopSugar and soon went viral, making headlines on Cosmopolitan, Teen Vogue, and Elite Daily. To keep up with popular demand, the Castle opened in August in a four-storey building in Siam Square (Siam Square Soi 2), with the café being housed on the 4th floor and the first three floors dedicated to shopping all things mermaid—swimsuits, clothing, accessories, phone cases, shoes, handbags, make up, the works.
features several desserts, Italian sodas, coffees, and smoothies, while the restaurant offers full meals such as beef burgers and steaks—best to keep an eye on your food around the animals. Open daily from 11am to 10pm. www.facebook.com/theanimalcafethailand
Upstairs at the café, the drinks menu boasts colourful frozen drinks topped with whipped cream and an edible mermaid’s tail. Rainbow-coloured waffles, oyster shaped desserts, and mermaid tail-topped cupcakes are also available, but the castle’s Signature Set (B590) offers a bit of everything and is perfect for sharing. Offering either a waffle or two slices of cake, two cupcakes, two oyster shaped desserts, plus tea or hot chocolate served in a Beauty and the Beast’s Mrs Potts and Chip Cup, or Aladdin’s Genie tea set (technically not from The Little Mermaid but we’ll let it slide). For those who don’t have a sweet tooth, savoury and Thai dishes are also available. Mermaid tales and your favourite Under The Sea plush friends are placed at each table—making all your mermaid dreams come true. Opening times are daily from 11:30am to 9pm. www.facebook.com/mermaidcastlesiam THE ANIMAL CAFÉ: Bangkok has its fair share of pet cafés; from various breeds of dogs, to cats, and even rabbits. But for the more exotic inclined, The Animal Café at La Raffles community mall on Soi Sathupradit 19 offers one-on-one time with owls, chinchillas, foxes, raccoons, caracals, serval cats, as well as several domestic breeds of cute and cuddly cats and kittens. The entry fee is B200 per person and B100 per child, which can be used as credit to purchase food and drinks inside. The venue itself is split across two floors; the ground floor hosts the owlery and café, while upstairs is a restaurant and animal playroom area. The café’s menu bangkok101.com
KC SELFIE COFFEE: Forget conventional foam art, KC Selfie Coffee situated along Siam Gypsy Walking Street, now offers coffee topped with your face! A first in Thailand, the café uses an imported printer from the US, and food colouring for ink, to print images onto creamtopped hot or cold drinks. Simply send them a selfie or any picture of your choice to their Line account. The selfie drinks menu features hot, iced, and frappe drinks starting from B50, and for an extra B35 you can have a selfie printed on your coffee. Other drinks include Italian sodas, hot teas, and slow drip coffees. Thai and Western comfort food, as well as café favourites like honey toast and cakes are also available to enjoy with your selfie art. Open daily from 10am to 10pm. www.facebook.com/selfiecoffeebangkok OCTOBER 2017 | 29
CITY PULSE | cafe review
Dean & Deluca
The best of New York: café culture and pizza slices
I
n the haze of hot and busy Bangkok life, Dean & Deluca promises wonderfully airconditioned café sanctuaries to grab a mellow coffee and tasty pastry, snack, or restaurant-style meal. The brand started life in 1970s New York and in Bangkok has stood the test of time since 2010—which in café years is forever—as the city’s café culture has grown into the ever so sophisticated and creative scene it is today. If coffee is an art form, Dean & Deluca expresses morning-till-late-at-night appeal with professional panache. The chain’s latest offering, is more of a café style outlet, located right on Silom Road, under the Sala Daeng BTS skytrain station. With the focus on coffee, brewed exclusively for the brand, in addition to a pizza menu, it feels as if this branch has been here forever and just a month or so in is proving to be a café oasis promising respite from the hubbub outside. Big ovens deliver seven types of ‘Housemade New York Style Pizza’ to a display counter, with extra toppings available (although no anchovies which is disappointing to some). A 30 | OCTOBER 2017
huge slice of Pepperoni is just B95, and Parma Ham, Melon & Rocket, B125, with 14” and 22” pizzas available too. Deliciously cooked, the 7am to midnight opening hours mean, noteto-self, that this is a new pizza-stop during nights out too, whilst perfect for exhausted shoppers, hungry workers, and BTS commuters. Other menu highlights include the Ham and Cheese Melt (B100/195), stacked with meat served in light sourdough sliced toast, and the Macao Pork Bun (B180), served with brioche and red onion chutney—a two-month special that adds an Asian twist. The California Cobb Salad (B145) is refreshing, but the delicious Red Velvet Cake (B125) perhaps best shows the essence of the café’s popularity. What is clear is that considering quality and quantity, the menu is fabulous value and prides itself on serving up food that is good without being overly fancy. The interior’s split-level design works well, with hideaway seats upstairs and high marble counter tables downstairs and outdoor
seating too. The window seats are perfect for people-watching whilst relaxing in the cool indoors and sipping the fluffiest cappuccino ever; the ultimate café experience. Will you be surprised, or bowled over by the chain’s latest offering? Not especially, but herein lies the reason why the brand is so popular. It promises quality food with decent coffee in clean, pleasant, and soothingly simple surroundings, without needing or wanting to overchallenge or over-excite the senses. Like a dependable friend, sometimes in life all you need is what you know, and all you want is what you expect. by Nadia Willan NOTE: Dean & Deluca now have 11 outlets in Bangkok, including two at Suvarnabhumi Airport, plus one in the BluPort Mall Hua Hin.
Dean & Deluca
281/19-23, 1F, Silom Rd. Open daily: 7am-midnight Tel: 02 015 0046 www.deandeluca.com/thailand bangkok101.com
ENJOY CHEF HIROAKI’S MADE-TO-ORDER BUFFET AND BRING A 4TH PERSON FOR FREE!
CAFÉ LISTINGS | by neighbourhood Recommended cafés that are not mentioned in our feature articles:
ARI Ansel and Eliott
19 Soi Suthisan Winitchai, Sutthisarn Rd. 095 239 1502 | 9am-8pm. facebook.com/anselandelliott
Bar Storia del Caffè
099 090 9050 | 8am-12am facebook.com/satihandcraftcoffee
Sutdrip
55/5, Phahonyothin Soi 2 087 907 0099 | 11am-5pm facebook.com/sutdrip
OLD TOWN
Favour Café
Tha Mahara Mall, 1/11 Maharaj Rd. 099 256 4659 | 10am-9pm facebook.com/favourcafe
Happy Espresso
Wong Wian Yi Sip Song Karakadakhan Rd. 02 221 6099 | 9am-6pm facebook.com/superhappyespresso
Hook Board Game Cafe
Phahonyothin 7 Alley, Soi Ari 4 Nua, 02 057 9448 | Sun-Thurs: 9am-11pm, FriSat: 9am-12am facebook.com/barstoriadelcaffe Other Bar Storia del Caffe outlets: G Floor, Eight, 55 Sukhumvit Rd 02 714 9301 | 8.30am-10.30pm 24 Soi Sukhumvit 57 098 886 1645 | 6am-11pm
Aluco Café
Common Room x Ari
Café Velodome
Thammasat University,12 Prachan Rd. 02 623 6340 | 8am-8pm facebook.com/CafeVelodome
Life and Kuisine, 589 Phra Sumen Rd 092 919 4656 | Thurs-Fri: 10.30am-8pm, Sat-Sun: 7.30am-10.30pm facebook.com/lifeandkuisine
Casa Lapin X Ari
Double Dogs
Kopi Hya Tai Kee
5 Soi Phahon Yothin 7 062 416 7746 | Mon-Sat: 8am-5pm facebook.com/commonroomxari
Noble Condo, 8, Phahonyothin Soi 7 02 116 3308 | 8:30am-10pm facebook.com/casalapin Other Casa Lapin outlets: 120/6, Sukhumvit Soi 49 081 267 2040 | 8am-5pm 51, Sukhumvit Soi 26 02 200 5546 | 8am-10pm 888/64 Ploenchit Rd 02 651 4874 | 7am-9pm GMM Building, Sukhumvit Soi 23 089 746 2948 | 8am-7pm 983 Chic Republic Trat Rd. 062 019 2444 | 7.30am-9.30pm 318 Phayathai Rd 064 070 0532 | 7am-11pm
Kaffe by Library Ari
Noble Space, 8/2, Phahonyothin Soi 7 081 639 0802 | 9:30am-8:30pm facebook.com/librarycafe
Porcupine Café
48, Soi Ari 4 091 469 4646 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/porcupineari
Puritan
46/1, Soi Ari 5 | 02 357 1099 Tues-Fri,1pm-10pm, Sat-Sun, 11am-10pm facebook.com/puritan.cafe
Sa-Ti Handcraft Coffee 110/2 Thanon Rama VI 32 | OCTOBER 2017
183 Suan Chitlada Dusit 098 923 2322 | Mon-Fri, 8:30am-6:30pm, Sat 10am-7pm facebook.com/alucocafe
Blue Whale Maharaj
397/, 37 Maha Rat Rd 081 926 4146 | facebook.com/bluewhalebkk
406 Yaowarat Rd. 086 329 3075 | Tue-Thu, 1pm-9pm, Fri-Sun, 1pm-10pm facebook.com/doubledogstearoom
Eden’s
7/1 Lan Luang Rd. (no telephone) | Tue-Sun, 9am-8pm instagram.com/eden_niram
Eiah Sae
Happio Building, 74 Phra Athit Rd. 095 251 5095 | Tue-Sun, 12pm-10pm facebook.com/hookcafe
Jaywalk Cafe
90 Phra Athit Rd. 092 564 2068 | 8am-6pm (Tue. closed) facebook.com/jaywalkcafe
Life And Kuisine
78/4 Prachathipatai Rd. (near Giant Swing) 02 621 0828 | 7am-8:30pm Other Kopi Hya Tai Kee outlets: 526 Phra Sumen Rd. 02 629 0646 | 7am-8pm
Mitramit Teahouse
32 Phra Sumen Rd. 02 126 6567 | Sat-Thu, 2pm-11pm facebook.com/mitramitteahouse
103-105 Yaowarat Rd. 097 242 2870 | 6am-10pm www.eiahsaecoffee.com
On Lok Yun
Elefin Coffee
Wanderlust
4 Sanam Chai Rd. 085 074 4405 | Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm www.elefincoffee.com Other Elefin Coffee outlets: Hansar Hotel Bangkok 3/250, Mahadlekluang 2, Ratchadamri Rd. 02 209 1234 | 7am-12am Wat Poh, 394 / 1-2 Maharaj Rd. 02 622 1115 | 8 am-8 pm
Farm to Table Café
179 Atsadang Rd., Wang Burapha Phirom 02 115 2625 | 10am-8pm facebook.com/farmtotableorganiccafe Other Farm to Table outlets: Farm to Table, Hideout 15 Soi Tha Klang 02 004 8771 | Thu-Tue, 10am-9pm
72 Charoenkrung Rd. 02 223 9621 | 5:30am-4pm
149-151 Rama 4 Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong. 083-046-8647 | Mon-Thu 8am8pm; Fri-Sun 8am-10pm facebook.com/onederlust
SATHORN-SILOM All Good in The Hood
14 Soi Phi Chai 2 086 577 7796 | Wed-Fri: 7am-7pm, Sat-Sun: 9am-7pm facebook.com/allgoodinthehoodbangkok
Alphabet Café & Bar
198, Soi Pipat 2, Narathivas Rd. 099 759 9599 | 6am-2am facebook.com/alphabetcafeandbar bangkok101.com
by neighbourhood | CAFÉ LISTINGS
Bacino Café & Bistro
34/1 Soi Si Bamphen 02 287 0246 | Tue-Sun: 8am-7.30pm facebook.com/Cafebacino/
Cafe Neighbour
466/23 Suan Phlu Rd. 02 116 7074 | Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm, Sat-Sun, 10am-5pm facebook.com/cafeneighboratbkk
Coffee Craftsmam x Yarden 30 Yenakat Rd. 02 249 0180 | 7am-6pm facebook.com/CoffeeCraftsmanxYarden
Dexter Café and Bar
56, Sathorn Soi 8 (Soi Pipat) 02 636 6222 | Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm, Sat-Sun, 8am-10pm www.dextercafe.com
Everyday Karmakamet 1F, Yada Building, Silom Rd. 02 237 1148 | 10am-10pm www.everydaykmkm.com
Flair The Espresso Bar Thaniya Plaza, 52 Silom Rd.
bangkok101.com
095 245 4942 | Mon-Fri, 7:30am-5:45pm, Sat-Sun, 11am-5:45pm facebook.com/flairbkk
Luka Bangkok
64 Pan Rd. | 02 637 8558 Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-7pm www.lukabangkok.com
(Not Just) Another Cup Sathon Nuea Rd, Soi Sathon 10 02 635 3464 | 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup
Printa Café
36/2 Pan Rd 095 542 4575 | Thurs-Tue: 7.30am-6pm facebook.com/printacafe
Roastology
21 Sala Daeng 1 Alley 062 381 8333 | Mon-Fri: 7.30am-5pm, Sat: 10am-5pm, Sun: 12-5pm facebook.com/roastology
Rocket Coffeebar 149, Sathorn Soi 12 02 635 0404 | 7am-8pm www.rocketcoffeebar.com
Size S Coffee & Bakery 5/25 Soi Ngam Du Phli 02 286 6117 | Mon-Sat, 7:30am-6pm facebook.com/sizescafe
Slow Café by Room 111
399/5, Silom Soi 7 095 595 4694 | 10:30am-7pm www.room111.co
Somersault
604/137 Sathu Pradit Rd. 081-655-6698 | Mon-Wed: 8am-7pm, Fri: 8am-7pm, Sat-Sun: 9.30am-7pm facebook.com/SomersaultCafe
Too Fast To Sleep
762 Rama IV Rd. 086 300 9944 | daily 24 hours facebook.com/toofasttosleep
LOWER SUKHUMVIT 39 Espresso
665, Sukhumvit Soi 39 086 393 6762 | 7am-5pm facebook.com/39espresso
OCTOBER 2017 | 33
CAFÉ LISTINGS | by neighbourhood
April Story
3F, Habito Mall, 45/19 Sukhumvit Soi 77 097 979 6495 | 10:30am-7:30pm facebook.com/aprilstorycafe
Artis
390/20, Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 18 02 262 0760 | 7am-11pm facebook.com/artisbangkok
Brekkie
6/9, Soi Prom Sri 1, Sukhumvit Soi 39 083 656 6141 | 9am-6pm www.brekkiebangkok.com
Baker Gonna Bake
GF, K Village, Sukhumvit Soi 26 092 651 6463 | 8am-10pm facebook.com/bakergonnabakecafe
Café Claire
Oriental Residence, 110 Wireless Rd. 02 125 9000 | 6am-10:30pm www.oriental-residence.com/cafeclaire
Cafe Little Spoon
165/5-6, Sukhumvit Soi 21 087 983 9001 | Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm facebook.com/cafelittlespoon
Ceresia Coffee Roasters 593/29-41, Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 086 843 8235 | Tue-Sun, 8am-6pm facebook: Ceresia Coffee Other Ceresia outlets: Tisco Tower, 48/2 Sathorn Rd. 098 251 4327 | 8am-6pm
Chu
2F, Exchange Tower, 388 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 663 4554 | Mon-Fri, 7:30am-9pm, Sat-Sun, 8am-9pm www.facebook.com/chu.bkk Other Chu outlets: Trinity Complex, 150 Pipat Rd. 02 636 8685 | Mon-Fri, 8:30am-9pm, Sat-Sun, 8am-9pm
CoffeeWorks
100/68, Sukhumvit Soi 26 02 425 1395 | Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm www.coffeeworks.co.th
Crack
139 RQ49 Mall, Sukhumvit Soi 49 085-359-2656 | 11am-10pm facebook.com/crackbkk
Doi Chaang Coffee 5/1-3, Sukhumvit Soi 12 02 653 4311 | 8am-7pm 34 | OCTOBER 2017
www.doichaangcoffee.com
Fauchon
EmQuartier, 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 003 6033 | 10am-10pm www.fauchon.com
Hello Strangers
61/45, Sukhumvit Soi 26 090 994 8760 | Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm, Sat-Sun, 10am-8pm facebook.com/hellostrangerscafe
It’s Happened to Be a Closet 124/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 081 565 2026 | 8am-12am itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com
La Creperie
86, Sukhumvit Soi 39 02 662 6499 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/lacreperiebangkok
Kiosk Cafe
The Barkyard, 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 02 259 4089 | Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com Other Kiosk Cafe outlets: 3F, Siam Square One, 338 Rama Rd. 02 115 1375 | 10am-9pm
Kuppa
39, Sukhumvit Soi 16 02 258 0194 | 10am-10pm www.kuppa.co.th
Kuppadeli
219/1A, Sukhumvit 21 02 664 2350 | 7am-9 pm www.kuppadeli.com Other Kuppadeli outlets: 4F, The Emporium, 662 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 664 9959 | 10am-10pm LG, Floor, Erawan Bangkok 494 Ploenchit Rd. 02 250 7705 | 8am-10pm 4F, Centerpoint of Siam Square 989 Rama I Rd. 02 252 1771 | 10am-10pm 2F, The Residence On Thonglor Sukhumvit 55 02 185 1555 | 6:30am-3pm
La Baguette French Bakery GF, EmQuartier. 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 003 6420 | 10am-10pm www.labaguettepattaya.com
Li-Bra-Ry Cafe
2 Soi Metheenivet, Sukhumvit Soi 24
02 259 2878 | 10am-9pm facebook.com/librarycafe Other Li-Bra-By Café outlets: Rama IX Soi 41 02 718 3993 | 10am-9pm 24 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 259 2878 | 10am-pm 622 Sukhumvit Rd 02 269 1000 | 10am-10pm
Pacamara
2F, Rain Hill Mall, Sukhumvit Soi 47 02 261 7830 | 10am-9:30pm facebook.com/pacamaracoffee
Parden
2F, The Manor, 32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 02 204 2205 | Tue-Sun, 11am-5:45pm facebook.com/parden.bangkok
Paris Mikki
27 Metha Wattana, Sukhumvit Soi 19 088 870 0020 | Tue-Sun: 11am-9pm facebook.com/ParisMikki
Radi Grab & Go
Mahatun Plaza, 888/18 Phloenchit Rd. 02 264 6542 | 7am-6pm facebook.com/radicatering
Sora City
61/52, Sukhumvit Soi 26 02 001 6600 | Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat-Sun, 9am-8pm www.soracity.bike
Tinpresso
341/1, Wachiratham Sathit 21, Sukhumvit Soi 101/1 08 1636 9531 | 9:30am-4:30pm facebook.com/tinpresso
Toby’s
68/1, Sukhumvit Soi 38 02 712 1774 | Tue-Sun, 9am-10:30pm facebook.com/tobysk38
Veganerie Concept
35/2 Soi Metheenivet, Sukhumvit Soi 24 02 258 8489 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/veganbakerybangkok
Wonderwall The Kaffebar Avora 31 Residence, 28, Sukhumvit Soi 31 02 108 7575 | Mon-Sun, 7:30am-7pm facebook.com/wkaffebar Other Wonderwall outlets: A Square Community Mall 120, Sukhumvit Soi 26 099 424 6592 | Mon-Sun, 7:30am-7pm
bangkok101.com
by neighbourhood | CAFÉ LISTINGS
THONG LOR-EKKAMAI Audrey Cafe’ des Fleurs
099 194 6169 | 11am-10pm facebook.com/elmarcoffee
Petite Cafe x Liberty Area One
2F, Ekamai Mall 3, Ekkamai Soi 10 090 972 8017 | Tue-Sun, 11am-10pm facebook.com/bkkpetite
7A10, 8th Floor, The Helix Quartier, EmQuartier Rd, 1357 Sukhumvit Rd 02 003 6244 | 11am-10pm audreygroup.com/audreydesfleurs
Fill In The Blank
Beeston Cafe
Hands and Heart
Ascella Condo, 33, Sukhumvit Soi 38 081 442 7977 | 7am-9pm facebook.com/handsandheartcoffee
21, Sukhumvit Soi 61 02 001 5850 | Tue-Sat, 9am-6pm, Sun, 10am-5:30pm www.philscoffeecompany.com
Big Knit Cafe
Ink & Lion Café
Roast
Jaiyen Cafe
Mocking Tales
1/3-4, Ekkamai Soi 2, Sukhumvit Soi 63 097 037 2398 | 10am-9pm facebook.com/beestoncafe
The Natural Park Bldg, 88 Sukhumvit Soi 49 02 260 5050 | 9am-9pm www.bigknit49.com
Civic Park 60, Thong Lor Soi 13 096 169 3646 | 12pm-10pm facebook.com/jaiyencafe Other Jaiyen Café outlets: 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33 098 251 6485 | 12pm-10pm facebook.com/jaiyencafe
D’Ark
Piman 49, 48/1, Sukhumvit Soi 49 02 662 7900 | 8am-10pm www.darkoffee.com Other D’Ark outlets: EmQuartier, 651 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 003 6013 | Sun-Thu, 10am-10pm, Fri-Sat, 10am-11pm
Elmar Offwhite Café 50/5, Sukhumvit Soi 63
28/10, Sukhumvit Soi 61 094 556 2920 | 10am-8pm facebook.com/fillintheblank.decor
1/7, Soi Ekkamai 2, Sukhumvit Soi 63 02 002 6874 | Mon-Wed, 9 am-6 pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-6 pm facebook.com/inkandlioncafe
The Maze, 148, Thong Lor Soi 4 083 386 6992 | 11am-1am facebook.com/mockingtales
Munch
GF, Mugendai Honten, Thong Lo 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 02 381 4711 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/munchbkk
Nikko Cafe
30/18 Soi Charoen Chai, Ekkamai Soi 12 02 381 5291 | 10am-10pm www.nikkocafe.com
One Ounce For Onion 19/12, Ekkamai Soi 12 02 116 6076 | 9am-8pm facebook.com/oneounceforonion
Phil Coffee Company
The Commons, 335, Thong Lo Soi 17 02 185 2865 | Mon-Thu, 10am-11pm, Fri-Sun, 9am-10pm www.roastbkk.com Other Roast Café outlets: 1F, The Helix Quartier, EmQuartier 094 176 3870 | 10am-10pm
Tealily Cafe
Sukhumvit Soi 39, Soi Prommit 02 019 8287 | Thu-Tue, 9:30am-6:30pm facebook.com/tealilycafe
Tiny Cup Cafe
457-457/6, Sukhumvit Soi 55 02 712 5112 | 7am-6pm facebook.com/tinycupbkk
The Coffee Club
1239 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 381 2736 | 7am-11pm facebook.com/thecoffeeclubthailand Other The Coffee Club outlets: Soi Convent, Silom Rd. 098 250 9047 | 7am-11pm
www.labottega.name T. +6622041731 labottegabangkok
bangkok101.com
bottegabkk
OCTOBER 2017 | 35
CAFÉ LISTINGS | by neighbourhood The Hive, Piman Sukhumvit Soi 49 098 250 9042 | Sun-Thu, 6:30am-10pm, Fri-Sat, 6:30am-11:30pm The Maze, Sukhumvit Soi 55 098 250 9051 | Sun-Thu, 6:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sat, 6:30am-11:30pm
Vanilla Garden
53, Ekkamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 63 02 381 6120 | 10am-10pm www.vanillaindustry.com
Warm Wood Café
137/1, Thong Lo Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 02 714 9974 | Tue-Sun, 9am-1am facebook.com/warmwoodcafe
WWA Cafe x Chooseless 77 Baan Ekkamai, Ekkamai Soi 21 02 660 4349 | Wed-Fri, 12pm-9pm, Sat-Sun, 10:30am-9pm facebook.com/wwa.bangkok Other WWA Café outlets: 428 3rd-4th Floor, Siam Square Soi 7 02 658 4686 | 1pm-9pm
SIAM-PHAYATHAI
112/4, Soi Sri Ayutthaya 2, Rangnam Rd. 098 743 8905 | Mon, Wed-Fri, 10am-8pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-9pm facebook.com/chibichibicafe Other Chibi Chibi outlets: 339 Oasis Building, Silom Soi 3, Silom Rd. 088 399 9699 | 7:30am-4:30pm
Di Cafe by Monomer
486/151, Soi Phetchaburi16 099 261 2261 | Mon-Fri, 7:30am-9pm, Sat-Sun, 8:30am-8pm facebook.com/dicafebymonomer
Factory Cafe & Brew Bar 35/18 Phayathai Rd. 085 145 4184 | 8am-6pm, Sun, 10am-4pm facebook.com/factoryespressobar
Gallery Drip Coffee
1F, BACC, 939 Rama I Rd. 081 917 2131 | Tues-Sun, 10:30am-9pm facebook.com/gallerydripcoffee Other Gallery Drip Coffee outlets: 156 Maha Chai Rd 081 989 5244 | Tue-Sun: 11am-pm
Another Hound
I+D Style Cafe X Brave Roasters
April Store
Kay’s Boutique Breakfast
1F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama I Rd. 02 129 4409 | 10am-11pm www.anotherhoundcafe.com
U Center, Chula Soi 42 097 979 6495 | Mon-Fri, 7:30am-5:30pm, Sat-Sun, 8:30am-5pm facebook.com/aprilstorebangkok
3F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd. 080 046 6885 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/braveroasters
116/55-57 Soi Ruamchit, Rangnam Rd. 02 245 1953 | Tue, 6:30am-12pm, Wed-Sun, 6:30am-4pm www.kaysbangkok.co
Black Box
Once Cafe
Cafe At Ease
Open House
Café de Norasingha
Paul
888/12 Phloen Chit Rd. 02 651 5188 | 7.30am-4pm facebook.com/blackboxbangkok
38/1, Soi Kasemson 2 087 799 0781 | 8:30am-6:30pm facebook.com/cafeateasebangkok
Phaya Thai Palace, 315 Ratchawithi Rd. 02 354 8376 | 8am-7pm www.phyathaipalace.org
Café Now
Creative Lab, 3F Siam Discovery 02 934 7288 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/cafenowbypropaganda
Chibi Chibi-Cafe & Atelier 36 | OCTOBER 2017
Siam Square Soi 2 084 777 7322 | 12pm-9:30pm www.oncecafe.com
Level 6, Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd. 01 119 7777 | 10am-10pm centralembassy.com/anchor/open-house
Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd. 02 001 5160 | 8:30am-10pm facebook.com/paul1889.thailand Other Paul outlets: The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd. 10am-10pm Central World, 999/9 Rama I Rd. 10am-10pm Empire Tower, 195 South Sathorn Rd. Mon-Fri 7am-8pm, Sat 9am-5pm
Quest Connaisseur Café
130/32 Phaya Thai Rd. 02 612 1442 | 6am-10pm facebook.com/questcafebkk
Simply W
2F, Central World, 999/9 Rama I Rd. 02 646 1523 | 11:30am-10pm www.simplywcafe.com
Think Cafe
1F, Siam Center, 979 Rama I Rd. 02 658 1557 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/thinkcafesiamcenter
AFTERNOON HIGH TEA 1823 Tea Lounge
GF, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. 02 656 1086 | 12pm-6pm facebook.com/1823tealoungebyronnefeldtbkk
Authors’ Lounge
Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Avenue 02 659 9000 | 12pm-6pm www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok
Erawan Tea Room
Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Rajadamri Rd. 02 254 1234 | 2:30pm-6pm bangkok.grand.hyatt.com
Sapphire Bar
The Sukosol Bangkok, 477 Si Ayuthaya Rd. 02 247 0123 | 2pm-5pm www.thesukosol.com
TWG Tea Salon
Siam Paragon, Level M, 991 Rama 1 Rd. 092 6109527 | 10am-10pm www.twgtea.com Other TWG Tea Salon outlets: GF, Central Chidlom, 22 Ploenchit Rd. 092 529 8703 | 9am-10pm GF, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd. 092 259 9510 | 10am-10pm 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Si Phraya Pier, Yota Rd. 092 529 8704 | 10am-8pm EmQuartier, Helix Quartier, M Floor, 693 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 003 6070 | 10am-10pm
Twinings Tea Boutique CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd. 02 613 1230-1 | 10am-10pm www.twiningsmoment.com
Check out our full list of cafés and tearooms at: www.bangkok101.com bangkok101.com
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Relaxing Himalayan salt detox body wrap at Spa by Le MĂŠridien Bangkok
| LIVING IN STYLE
LIVING IN STYLE de-stressing detox According to the team of experts at SPA BY LE MÉRIDIEN BANGKOK (40/5 Surawong Rd), a single detox body wrap using Himalayan salt has a similar effect to a three-day juice fast. And for the ultimate body cleanse, the HIMALAYAN HIGH treatment offers a 60-minute stress-relieving Oil Massage, followed with the 30-minute Himalayan Salt Detox Body Wrap, which provides extensive exfoliation while opening the pores to absorb and replenish essential minerals. Throughout October and November 2017, the 90-minute treatment is priced at B1,900 per person. Opening hours are from 11am to 11pm daily. www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com/spa
sweat in style Located in On Nut, the recently launched X2 VIBE BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT HOTEL (10, Sukhumvit Soi 52) is providing international guests and local residents with a stylish new way to keep in shape. With its sea-salt swimming pool, modern gym, serene spa, and a Japanese-inspired onsen, this chic haven of wellness offers a stylish alternative to Bangkok’s big brand health clubs. A series of membership options are available, including special off-peak rates (6am-4pm) starting from B2,000 per month, or full-time membership (6am-9pm) from B2,600 per month. Free on-site parking, complimentary Wi-Fi, and 20 percent discounts on spa treatments and food and drinks at the hotel’s 4K CAFÉ are also on offer. www.x2vibe.com
work hard, sleep hard What was once eerie old university dorms down Chulalongkorn Soi 6, is now a brightlit space that places equal emphasis on work, play, and rest. Describing itself as a “co-napping space”, Bangkok’s latest co-working space NAPLAB, is split across two levels and offers standard office desks, Japanese-style floor seating, as well as private bunk bed-style nooks—perfect for power naps. It’s also outfitted with a punching bag, ping pong table, and a large slide for a quick and easy exit. Open daily from 10am to 10pm, prices start at B150 for four hours or B3,500 per month, which includes Wi-Fi. Call: 081 734 5147
buy from thailand’s brand heroes Thailand is an incredible place when it comes to producing amazing foods, unique design creations, and luxurious health, beauty and wellness products—not to mention jewellery, fashion and handicrafts. There so much talent, skill, creativity and entrepreneurial spirit, and celebrating brands that are leading the way in excellence is the THAILAND TRUST MARK; a seal of quality that recognizes brands that are environmentally and socially responsible and that follow international standards of manufacturing and follow fair labour practices. The so-called ‘T-Mark’ is a symbol of feel-good shopping, supporting those brand heroes that do actually care, including well-known brands such as BLUE ELEPHANT and THANN. bangkok101.com
OCTOBER 2017 | 39
LIVING IN STYLE | property profile
Setting a New Standard Read-to-move-in condominiums in the heart of the city
P
romising the “optimum quality of life” the Sindhorn Residence on Langsuan Road is setting a new standard in the Thai real estate market. This high-rise super luxury condominium—comprised of one 35-storey and one 10-storey building, which together offer 202 4 0 | OCTOBER 2017
units of between 35 and 345 sq.m—is now complete and ready to move in. The project offers potential residents a prime location, close to Lumphini Park, business districts, shopping malls, hospitals, embassies, a BTS stop, and other amenities. In addition, the development is placed amidst 14
rai of “super green” space, allowing both the residents and the nearby community to enjoy Sindhorn’s ‘Living in the Park’ concept. Launched late in 2014, Sindhorn Residence is now priced at approximately B240,000 per square metre, and so far 75 percent of the project has been sold (with some units already being occupied). The highly functional features include modern German-design kitchen units by PoggenPohl, as well as closet solutions by Poliform, from Italy, shower and faucets by Hansgrohe, from Germany, and electrical appliances from Siemens (also from Germany). Furthermore, the buildings are equipped with energy recovery ventilation technology—to maintain the best temperature and air quality—and double walls to help absorb sounds and maximize privacy and tranquility. Each unit is equipped with its own separated ventilation system to avoid unpleasant odors, and the fresh air system makes sure there is plenty of oxygen when air conditioning units are functioning. Insulated three-layered glass lets in natural light but blocks extra heat from the outside, keeping the inside cooler and reducing energy consumption as well as excessive noise. Finally, it’s worth noting that the Sindhorn Residence structures are “green buildings”, constructed according to LEED standards (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) making them both energy-saving and environmentally friendly. This uncompromising dedication to quality brings to the market upscale readyto-move-in condo units that definitely deliver on their promise.
Sindhorn Residence Soi Langsuan 1, Ton Son Alley. Tel: 02 650 9595 www.sindhornresidence.com
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The dramatic Angkor-inspired towers at Wat Chai Wattanaram
insight | SNAPSHOTS
A
On Ayutthaya
fter the rise and fall of the first Siamese capital of Sukhothai, the Kingdom of Ayutthaya graced not only a long chapter in Thai history but also volumes of chronicles, books, and theses. Its legendary glory through war and peace was captured in both historical records and the imaginations of far-flung fortune seekers from Europe. As a major prelude to Bangkok, Ayutthaya’s legacy lasts longer than its four centuries of grandeur. Wrapped around by the confluences of the Chao Phraya, Lopburi, Pahsak, and Noi rivers, Ayutthaya is an island with waterways that act as natural fortresses. The fertile plains of the Chao Phraya river valley make this region abound with agricultural products as well as foraged finds from forests. These rivers, which used to be wider and deeper, were the main thoroughfares and lent themselves to commerce. Thus, Ayutthaya prospered from both agrarian abundance and foreign trading. Founded by King Uthong, or King Rama Thibbodi I, in 1351 and ended in 1767, during the reign of King Ekathat, or King Boromraja III, Ayutthaya’s history has seen many ups and downs—through war and wealth. During the warring episodes in the 15th and 16th centuries,
Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com
if Ayutthaya didn’t wage wars with Angkor or Burma, its royalty and nobility would make Game of Thrones look like a comic strip. With five revolving dynasties and 33 kings, backstabbing, coup d’états, treasons, poisoning, and plain old murder were just part of the game. Some of these monarchs were on the throne for only two months or less. In its heyday, during the 17th and 18th centuries, Ayutthaya peaked and surpassed the sizes of both London and Paris, with more than one million inhabitants. Multi-national diplomats, missionaries, and merchants sailed up the river and were in awe of the shining palaces with golden spires and temples adorned with golden roof finials. Tall ships anchored along the banks, while the flotilla of royal barges stunned the onlookers. The original phrase “Venice of the East” was coined here when Bangkok was just a small village. Globalization didn’t start in the last few decades, but rather centuries ago when the Chinese, Japanese, Indians, Persians, Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, and French (among many) mixed and mingled with the locals in this old capital. With its successes, coupled with political intrigues, King Narai built his second palace in Lopburi to escape from the prying eyes of the main court. France’s King Louis XIV sent his ambassador, entourage, and gifts there. After the pomp and ceremonies, they fêted in the palace garden with Constantine Phaulkon, the Greek adventurer who became King Narai’s prime counsellor, and his wife, Maria Guyomar de Pinha, a woman of Japanese-Portuguese-Bengali descent. In short, Ayutthaya was always filled with colourful characters. Ayutthaya lost its sovereignty to Burma twice—in 1569 and 1767—and gained it back with much blood, sweat, and tears. Nowadays its ruins and remnants have earned it accreditation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of my favourite temples in Ayutthaya is Wat Nha Phra Mane, which survived fully intact and has been spruced up by some modern fixtures, such as electric lamps. Its elegant
structure and the presiding Buddha image command reverence and attention from visitors. The gold-laden sculpture has a severe-looking visage and finely decorated with royal regalia of crown and jewellery like a king in full formal costume. Classical, royal Ayutthayan art and culture reflect Hindu beliefs and influences in the Devaraja doctrine as the king is the avatar of Vishnu. Hence Ayutthaya is named after Rama’s city, “Ayothaya,” meaning invincible. Ironically, the Burmese called it “Yodea” while the Dutch voiced it “Iudea”, without the prefix, meaning conquerable. History buffs should make a visit to the Ayutthaya Historical Study Centre which has a good library and interesting exhibitions about this region. However, if you would like to see the real Ayutthayan treasures, the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum exhibits splendid, priceless pieces such as gold artefacts found in the troves of the principal prangs (stupas in the form of shiva lingam) of Wat Ratchaburana and Wat Mahathaat. Among the most romantic ruins, Wat Chai Wattanaram on the Chao Phraya River is best viewed at sunset. The central prang and its surrounding towers represent Mount Meru, the tallest mountain where the deities live, and the cosmos. Modelled after Angkor, Ayutthaya once prided itself as the centre of the universe where many nations converged. Its riches made many impressed and some like the Burmese envious. Nowadays, Thai people visit Ayutthaya to pray at various temples or see King Rama V’s fantastical buildings at Bang Pa-In summer palace, and have lunch along the river with famed river prawns. In addition, if you are curious to see what Ayutthaya looked like in all its glory, more temples and mural paintings from this period can still be found in Petchburi, Ratchaburi, Suphanburi, and Uthong, for example. Even the Ancient City (Mueang Boran) in Samut Prakarn has a reconstructed, scaled-down replica of the Phra Sri Sanphet Prasart Throne Hall as one of its highlights. OCTOBER 2017 | 43
SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand
Sound Bytes & Swan Songs from Thailand-Part 2 Often maligned as a graveyard for live music, Bangkok has served as a band-stand for such acts as Guns N’ Roses, Michael Jackson, Radiohead, DOA, and Sonic Youth By Jim Algie
COCKED & RELOADED Among all the bands who have reunited in recent years Guns N’ Roses was one of the most surprising
and much anticipated. The longstanding, axe-grinding enmity between lead guitarist Slash and lead singer Axl Rose, who failed to turn up when the band was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 2011, had stalled any overtures that might lead to a reconciliation—until 2016 when the Not in This Lifetime tour hit the road. The tour landed in Bangkok in February of 2017, where the fans went ballistic with applauses as the boys played a concert of two hours and thirty minutes, including a four-song encore. The set list drew heavily from Appetite for Destruction, their killer debut album—arguably the best and most important hard rock record of the last three decades—with fan favorites like “Mr. Brownstone”, 4 4 | OCTOBER 2017
“Welcome to the Jungle”, and “Sweet Child O’ Mine”, as well as their popular covers, like “Live and Let Die” and “Knockin’ On Heaven’s Door”, bringing down the house. Meanwhile, the tour
will continue until at least late this November as the band celebrates the 30th anniversary of their debut release.
charts at the age of 16 with a single called “The Letter”, by his first band The Boxtops. After that he formed the critically praised but commercially unsuccessful Big Star in the early 1970s, pioneering a power-pop and rock ‘n’ soul medley that would wield tremendous influence over young musicians like REM and the Replacements. Duly feted in the 2012 documentary Big Star: Nothing Can Hurt Me as the “biggest cult band of all time”, Chilton refused to be interviewed for the documentary. He passed away while it was being shot in 2010. Of his solo work, the 1981 song “Bangkok” stands out more as a comedic WTF curio than a real song of substance, as Chilton refers to the Thai capital as a “little town in Indonesia,” and chucks in bizarre references to Bridget Bardot and “making love the Japanese way”. I know Wikipedia didn’t exist back then, but couldn’t the guy have bothered to look at a globe?
BANGKOK, INDONESIA
ALIVE ON ARRIVAL
Alex Chilton was one of those shooting stars in the music business who skyrocketed to the top of the
I first saw DOA (Dead On Arrival) around 1980 in the kind of Canadian prairie biker and redneck bar where punks like us normally got our heads kicked in. Before the Vancouver power trio took the stage there was enough tension and electricity to power the entire room. Yet they were so loud and aggressive that they even won the bikers over and had them playing air guitar. Now, after more than 35 years together as the road warriors and warhorses of Canuck punk, the band bangkok101.com
bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS title of an early compilation of their songs: Bloodied But Unbowed. SONIC BOON
played their debut show in Bangkok last month at The Overstay—a sixstory converted shophouse, former brothel, and now guesthouse that mirrors the band’s punk ethos. Singer and guitarist Joey Keithley, once known as “Joey Shithead” when everyone had an obnoxious nom de punk à la Johnny Rotten and Sid Vicious, is the only original member left in the trio. As an activist who has twice run for provincial office under the Green Party of British Columbia, he led the band through politically charged, up tempo renditions of their best known songs like “The Enemy,” which deals with police brutality, as well as tracks from their latest album, Hard Rain Falling, released in 2015, that addresses old school punk’s perennial subject matter such as racism and terrorism. That DOA held their own on a bill with five young hardcore bands from Thailand is a testament to their staying power and their own mantra, which was also the
Bizarre
Thailand
Author Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the collection of short stories entitled The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (2014), and Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex, and Black Magic. Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com
Before the economic earthquake of ‘97—which started in Thailand and soon rippled across Asia—silenced the live music scene in Bangkok, this metropolis had served as a one-night bandstand for incredible triple bills like the Foo Fighters, Sonic Youth and the Beastie Boys, as well as stellar shows by Smashing Pumpkins, Suede, Mudhoney opening for Pearl Jam, and hoarier, more hirsute rockers like Black Sabbath (sans Ozzy Osbourne).
the growing storm of child-abuse allegations back in America, and hung around Thailand for the better part of a week. He hid under the then-famous black Fedora and behind a phalanx of bodyguards on a million-baht shopping tour, marched with handsome young graduating cadets at the military school, and of course posed with “poor children.”
For alt.rock aficionados, the Radiohead gig in the hall above the MBK mall hit the highest notes of the mid-90s. So many fans were leaping up and down to the songs off the band’s just-released debut album Pablo Honey, that the ceiling began to buckle. Escorting half the group back to their hotel, they granted me an interview in the back of a tuk-tuk. Guitarist Ed O’Brien (below) said: “That was the happiest audience we’ve ever played to. Who smiles along to a song like ‘Creep’?”
During those sonic boom years of double-digit growth, when the capital briefly shed its unsound image as a centre of karaoke and processedcheese cover bands, Michael Jackson caused the loudest commotion. For that August 1993 show, some 40,000 fans were sardined into the National Stadium. During his stint in Bangkok, Jackson and his entourage took over an entire floor of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. It was the superstar’s most high-profile segment of the Dangerous tour, and a story in the Bangkok Post summed up the melée and conflicting moods of the time: “Millions watched vicariously, if not queasily, as the king of pop ignored
This piece is part of a new 25,000-word music journalism section that will appear in the revised paperback version—due out later this year—of acclaimed author Jim Algie’s most recent work of fiction, On The Night Joey Ramone Died: Tales of Rock and Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia, and Norway. The current e-book is available for download from Amazon for US$2.99.
OCTOBER 2017 | 45
SNAPSHOTS | very thai
Songs For Life
The soundtrack to 1970s rebellion, Thai folk-blues keeps relevant – Part 1
Y
ou can instantly spot fans of pleng peua cheewit (Songs For Life). Part of the left-leaning Art For Life movement, this 1970s-style blues-country-rock remains the soundtrack of disaffected middle-aged Thais with a penchant for radical chic. Growing old grungily, these anti-dictatorship veterans sport wispy beards, straggly long hair, and rumpled khaki fatigues. Yet the sacrifice of which they sing was for real. Unlike the cute peaceniks of corporate T-Pop, the For Lifers actually fought. Hence their respect among a general public who’d otherwise consider their behaviour déclassé. Grooming delineates a culture of social and mental conformity where looking different implies thinking different, which many Thais dislike. Driven by politeness and non-confrontation, conservative values turned oppressively strict under decades of military autocrats. Art For Life, originated by Marxist academic Jit Bhumisak in 1957, evolved to challenge dictatorship in a very 1960s way: happenings. Poetry, painting, literature, music—all got the egalitarian, hippy treatment. Like the slovenly grooming, the questioning attitude affronted the old, but that was partly the point. Starting anew looked attractive then. With revolutions overthrowing most nearby regimes, radicalized Thai students and workers manned the Bangkok barricades in a reprise of Paris, 1968. Amazingly, on October 14, 1973, it worked. On that now-hallowed date, protestors against the arrest of constitution advocates were shot, and the military dictators responsible were driven into exile. Seared onto national consciousness, such massacres get dubbed ‘incidents’ and glossed over by schools, history books and museums, though the October 14 Memorial records what happened. The protestors became known as the ‘October Generation’ after a second ‘incident’ on October 6, 1976, that ended a three-year period of democracy. The 1976 shooting and lynching of Thammasat University students was so infamously frenzied that most media and people still avoid mentioning it due to the perpetrators’ ongoing influence. A vicious witch-hunt by military and paramilitary rightists drove the surviving students into hiding. Most protestors had little option but to take their guitars to the Isaan jungle hideouts of Communist insurgents. But for the bourgeois protestors, Marxism held limited appeal.
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 46 | OCTOBER 2017
“None of Caravan [the pioneer For Life band] had been members of the Communist Party before joining the guerillas, and they found the rigid discipline stifling,” Craig Lockhard writes. Disillusioned by the Maoist cadres’ petty rules, inflexible rhetoric, and contempt for Thai culture— plus the jungle discomforts—they reintegrated with society only once assured safety under a 1981 amnesty. During the sequence of theorizing, protest, liberation, defeat, exile, amnesty, and then social work, ‘For Life’ activists found a distinctive look, lyric, and music to suit the moment. The two Octobers typify a globally rebellious era. Among its hirsute icons: hippies, Woodstock, Vietnam vets. Faced with such overwhelming facial hair and guitar strumming, earnest young Thais adopted the sartorial aspects of the politics along with the music. The blend of plaintive vocals, campaigning lyrics and bluesy guitar was then called progressive. “The protest rock style is suffering from... the fact that the music, still rooted in Western styles of folk-rock, has changed little,” says musicologist John Clewley. Its survival comes from the genre acting as a communal catharsis. Songs For Life seem just that: for life. Veterans still gather with like-minded look-alikes in music bars lined with posters, flags, and photographs of struggles past and present. The heroic romance of their outlaw life lent itself to sentiment, nostalgia and myth. Purist devotees head to reunion concerts of Caravan, says Lockhard, even though “their music was and remains too controversial for most Thai elites, even liberal ones.”
Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com
Combining charm and unique tradition with warm hospitality Located right in the heart of Chiang Mai, underneath the shade of a gigantic 50-year-old Yaang Tree, is where you will find yourself surrounded by traditional Lanna atmosphere, amidst the greenery of lush botanical surroundings. The Yaang Come Village hotel is a virtual oasis in the middle of a bustling city. Admiration for the history, culture, and glorious costumes of the ‘Tai’ people (or ‘Tai Lue’) helped to create this unique vision. With only a few steps, one enters a haven of serenity, with lush gardens and fascinating architecture of the Tai Lue style. Yaang Come Village contains many traditional elements, but still manages to be modern and provide all the amenities a business or leisure traveller could need.
90/3 Sridonchai Rd., Changklan, Muang, Chiang Mai, Thailand 50100 T. +66 5323 7222 F. +66 5323 7231 info@yaangcome.com, reservation@yaangcome.com YaangComeVillage
www.yaangcome.com
SNAPSHOTS | heritage
Heritage Mosques
Five exceptional examples of Islamic architecture in Bangkok Words and photos by Luc Citrinot
Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque
B
angkok is well known for its temples, but it is also a city rich in Muslim heritage. In fact, according to some data Thailand’s capital city has some 170 mosques on record. Many of them are historical monuments definitely worth a visit, but they also are testament to the importance of the Muslim community in the shaping of the Thai capital. Did you know some of these mosques look like Italian Palladian mansions, while others resemble a typical Thai temple? Take a look and you’ll be surprised at the diversity of this city’s mosques and their sometimes surprising architecture. BANG LUANG MOSQUE: Located in a small soi in Thonburi—Arun Amarin Road, south of Bangkok's Klong Yai— past the main road going to the Royal Marine Headquarters and Wat Arun, Bang Luang Mosque is one of the oldest in Bangkok, and probably the most interesting from an architectural 4 8 | OCTOBER 2017
point of view. The mosque was set up after Muslim communities fled from Ayutthaya following the destruction by Burmese troops in 1767. The mosque was built by a merchant named To Yi around 1830, and is the only one in Thailand to bear a traditional Thai style (similar in shape to traditional Thai Buddhist temples). However, in contrast to Thai temples, it does not bear any human figures. The simple façade is instead adorned by 30 pillars, which symbolize the 30 chapters of the Koran holy book. The mosque’s roof is decorated with Thai-style gables covered with stucco, showing Chinese influenced patterns of flowers. These flower motifs were very much favoured during the reigns of Kings Rama II and Rama III. Meanwhile, inside the mosque remains simple with its minbar (where the Imam delivers his sermon) being the main focal point for the viewer, with its Thai-shaped canopy, all painted in gold.
LUANG KOCHA ITSAHAK MOSQUE: Hidden by warehouses along Songwat Road (at #979 to be exact), in the Yaowarat/Sampheng district, the Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque was constructed around 1895, and exhibits in its architecture what was the trend of the time—looking like an Italian building. The mosque, the only one in the Sampheng area, reminds one of a charming Palladian style villa from Northern Italy. It was originally built by a Siamese government official with Malay roots, and it became the main mosque for the numerous Malay and Indian Muslim traders working in the warehouses and the trade companies along the Chao Phraya River. In the back of the mosque there is a small Muslim cemetery looking like a wild, almost abandoned garden where you'll find simple headstones shaded by numerous trees. With its greenery and numerous singing birds, visitors might find it hard to believe they’re in one of Bangkok’s busiest city districts. bangkok101.com
heritage | SNAPSHOTS
Haroon Mosque
Bang Ao Mosque
BANG AO MOSQUE: Located in Thonburi between the Krung Thon and Rama VII bridges—at the end of Charan Sanitwong Soi 88—the Bang Ao Mosque was built to host
Historic
Bangkok
Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com
Mahanak Mosque
a community of Persian traders who fled after the destruction of Ayutthaya. The mosque was completed in 1919, during the reign of King Rama VI, in a neo-classical Italian style, which was still very much en vogue at that time. It is dominated by two towers crowned by a dome. However, the façade, with its neo-classical windows, bears a distinctive European flavour and can be considered as one of the most elegant mosques in Bangkok. The Bang Ao community was known as Khaek Pae and thanks to trade prosperity, the area around the mosque turned into an Islamic learning centre with a school, a pavilion, a cemetery, and a multi-purpose hall. There is a plan to expand the compound around the mosque with a community centre being currently constructed in a neo-Persian style. MAHANAK MOSQUE: Located on Krung Maen Road, a small soi running off Krung Kasem Road, the Mahanak Mosque minaret is visible from the nearby Charoenrat Bridge which spans over the Saen Saep Canal. The first mosque was built around 1807 to serve a community of builders coming from Pattani. The mosque was rebuilt in 1851 and finally renovated for a third time in 1929, following a fire in a nearby Chinese shophouse. Fortunately, the fire only caused light
damage to the structure, which then was renovated soon after. The Rama VI former style was kept, which is a blend of Arabic and Italian architectural details. The mosque can be visited by the public and integrates, in the main prayer room, the old gate to the former mosque with its vaulted arches. HAROON MOSQUE: Located at 25 Charoen Krung Road, next to the French Embassy in the old European district, sits the Haroon Mosque. It is considered to be one of the oldest mosques on the Bangkok side of the Chao Phraya River. It was largely reconstructed and modernized in the early 70s, but the old European classical style walls are still partially visible behind all the modern additions of the past 30+ years. The name of the mosque comes from Haroon Bafadel, an Arab-Indonesian trader who settled in the area at the end of the 19th century. His son constructed the mosque and decided to give it the name of his father. In the cemetery, which the building overlooks, there are tombs of Thai-Muslim soldiers who died during the Korean and Vietnam wars. There are also a few beautiful 100-year-old mansions surrounding the mosque. Built in traditional style, they belong to rich Muslim traders. OCTOBER 2017 | 49
Getting an “overview� of the beautiful Chiang Mai landscape
CHIANG MAI 101 T
he 2-sq.km original city plan of CHIANG MAI CITY forms a near-perfect square, bounded on all sides by a moat and towering brick walls (of which only the corner bastions remain for the most part). Within these walls a charming network of narrow lanes, bisected by four broader avenues, lead to 33 historic temples, and a legion of guesthouses, cafés, shops, and restaurants. The easy going pace of the city, combined with the relatively pedestrian friendly flow of traffic, makes it a great place to wander around and explore in-depth. No surprise that it has become an absolute must on the travel itineraries of so many travellers. Famous spiritual landmarks here include WAT PHRA SINGH, which is considered Chiang Mai’s most revered temple, WAT CHEDI LUANG, the glorious, towering ruins of a Lanna-style chedi (built in 1441), and WAT KETKARAM, a monastery—located in one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods—built around the Phra That Ketkaew Chulamani stupa circa 1578-81. To get a feel for the pulse of the city, take a walk along THA PHAE ROAD, between the Old City’s Eastern gate and the banks of the Ping River, which reveals an amorphous conglomeration of fascinating side streets as well as the famed CHIANG MAI NIGHT BAZAAR. Another shopping attraction is the WUALAI WALKING STREET, where every Saturday evening—from 5pm till midnight—the street is closed to vehicles and fills instead with vendor stalls offering silverwork and other handicrafts. For a somewhat more hip and sophisticated street scene, the action is all centered around NIMMANHAEMIN ROAD. For many it’s the “coolest” neighbourhood in Chiang Mai, and the district’s main road and multiple side streets—lined with too many cafés, restaurants, bars, shops, and boutique hotels to count—has something for just about everyone. Chiang Mai is also a centre for the arts in Northern Thailand, and boasts two major fine art facilities—the MAIIAM CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM which opened in July of 2016, and the newly re-opened CHIANG MAI NATIONAL MUSEUM, which just underwent an extensive four-year renovation. In addition, the more traditional folk arts—such as silk weaving, silversmithing, and handcrafting Bo Sang (colourful wax-coated paper parasols)—also thrive here. But this region of Thailand also offers visitors plenty to see and do outside the city environs, with WAT PHRA THAT—a gilded 14th-century cloister perched 1,676 metres above the city on the side of the mountain known as DOI SUTHEP— being one of the most visited attractions. However, for a true “overview” of the region make the visit to DOI INTHANON—at 2,565-metres it’s Thailand’s tallest peak—where visitors arriving in the winter months can see the blossoming of the Siamese sakura flowers. Of course, any time of year is great for a visit to this famed spot, as you can always check out the iconic twin Royal Pagodas of the ROYAL PROJECT DOI INTHANON and marvel at the lush fruit and vegetable gardens, as well as the verdant tea and coffee plantations. You can get even closer to nature on one of the many trekking trails here, many of which lead past hidden waterfalls and into traditional hilltribe villages. GETTING AROUND: Chiang Mai’s iconic red songthaews—small, dilapidated pickup trucks with two benches for passengers in back—still ply the streets of Chiang Mai as there is, to date, no real public transit system in the city. Tuktuks and car taxis are also available (rates negotiable), and even Über has staked a claim in the local transport trade here. However, to get around most conveniently, many visitors prefer to rent cars (B1,000 and up) or motorbikes (B150-250 per day) from various rental shops around town.
Photos courtesy of Spice Roads Tours
TRAVEL | focus on chiang mai
Chiang Mai by Bicycle Cycling is a great way to explore Thailand’s Northern realms By James Austin Farrell
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hortly after arriving in Chiang Mai almost two decades ago—after deciding that Bangkok was too claustrophobic and the beach towns were not conducive to salubrious living—I spent a good deal of my time renting motorbikes and heading off for a day, or sometimes days, into the hills. I soon discarded the motor for just the bike, and have been a regular cyclist ever since. Cycle a few kilometres in any direction out of the city and you can find your own personal idyll—places that seem completely disconnected to the new neon-spangled malls where the parvenu dedicate themselves to selfies and window shopping. Cycling is, without doubt, the best decision I’ve made in Thailand. And as winter approaches, when the temperatures in Thailand dip ever so slightly, you have ideal conditions for riding. Together with a few cycling companions we’ve put together a list of routes visitors can enjoy over the next few months (when conditions are drier). Many of the routes are in areas where there is a network of nameless small roads that may seem interminable, but it’s just as easy getting out as it is getting in. It would confuse matters and disfigure the story if I were to fill it with countless turn lefts and turn rights, so I’m giving you the landmarks and possible routes but the rest is up to you. We have included routes for all
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levels of cyclists, but you should at least be relatively fit and have cycled a bike in the past decade to attempt the intermediate and hard trips.
EASY RIDES HUAY TUNG TAO: Huay Tung Tao is a small lake at the foot of the Doi Suthep mountain range. From the city centre it’s about a 13km ride (10km from the Nimmanhaemin district), but once you get there you can choose to cycle around the running track (5km) just outside the park, or go into the park and cycle around the lake itself (4km). Dotted around the lake are huts facing the water that serve food and drinks, and if you so choose you can swim. There is usually a 20 baht entrance fee, but they often allow cyclists to enter the park for free. It lies just off the Canal Road (121) as you head towards Mae Rim. If you head up Huay Kaew Road, in the direction of Doi Suthep, turn right at the last set of lights. The road to the lake is on your left next to a small bridge. CHIANG MAI FACULTY OF AGRO-INDUSTRY: For some reason this scenic spot just outside of the city bangkok101.com
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Breathtaking scenery
has remained somewhat untouched by tourism, and on most days it’s home to just a handful of runners and walkers. Cycling there from the city is easy enough, but it’s also just the beginning of much longer scenic rides. If you want to make it a short trip, start by entering Soi Wat Oemong on Suthep Road, and stop off at the temple—as its one of the best in the city. Follow the same soi to Wat Pang Noi, take a right and carry on. When you pass the football stadium take the next right. The views are always spectacular here and adjacent to the walking tracks there is a lake. Bring your own food and drinks as there are no shops. It’s about 8km from the city centre. This ride can be continued in many directions, but keeping it in the easy category you can take the small jungle road from the exercise track towards Wat Doi Kham. If you choose to turn left in the direction of the temple it’s a very steep but short ride to the top of the hill. From there you can keep going and you’ll ride past Royal Flora Ratchaphruek Botanical Gardens, that is also close to the Chiang Mai Night Safari. In fact, any direction you cycle in you’ll be pleasantly surprised at what you find. If you decide not to cycle to Wat Doi Kham you can keep going until you meet a V-section in the road. Turn left there and a 2km hill will take you to the road on the Samoeng Loop. Turn left and it’ll take you back to the Canal Road and you’ve done a loop of about 23km in all. There are lots of funky looking attractions on the way, and plenty of places to stop and eat. To extend this ride you could also head towards the gate of the Night Safari and just before you get there take a left down the only major road—we call it the Bee Road because there’s a bee conservation centre down there. That will take you to the Sameong Loop Road again. As you come out turn right and take the first left about 20 bangkok101.com
metres down the street and keep going. You will then hit the Chiang Mai Grand Canyon. This used to be a quiet man-made canyon filled with turquoise water, but now it’s closer to a theme park.
INTERMEDIATE RIDES DOI SUTHEP: Riding “up the hill”, as we say in Chiang Mai, isn’t quite as hard as it looks. You’ll see newbie cyclists almost every day riding up not much faster than walking speed. On the way up you can stop at waterfalls at the 2km mark (where they filmed part of Rambo III) and at the 3km mark. Wat Palad (4km) is also worth visiting, but there are plenty of scenic spots you can stop at if you need to rest. The journey to the top, from the zoo at the bottom, is about 11km. You can be up and down in a couple of hours while stopping at the temple at the top. If you carry on to the summit of Doi Pui it’s about 21km from the zoo, with the Bhuping Palace and the Doi Pui Hmong Village being highlights on the way. This is an excellent place to stop for the night and there are Hilltribe villagers campgrounds and also houses you can rent for spending the night close to the summit. If you are going to cycle to the summit, then you should be in fairly good shape. OCTOBER 2017 | 53
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Photo opportunities
SAN KAMPHAENG: This is arguably the place to see the most eye-catching panoramas of rice fields, but it’s also one of the worst places to get to as the major roads are hectic and frustrating—even by Thai standards. It is, however, worth visiting and you can explore many smaller roads on the way. Head to the San Kamphaeng Hot Springs (about 38km from Chiang Mai city centre) and go as far as you want from there. You can also head up into the hills in the direction of Flight of the Gibbon. With the distance in mind to reach there, and hills on top of that, it can be quite a long ride. There are numerous resorts and attractions in the area, but if you decide to explore make sure you can loop back or you may end up in Lamphun.
from the turn off on Suthep Road. That part is easy, but the smaller road to the gate of the park is up and down all the way with a few fairly steep hills—none of which are longer than a few hundred metres. Inside the park you can sit about by the river or lock up the bikes and go for a stroll along the track. It follows the fast moving river along a cliff edge. There is a restaurant and tourist office there but a couple of the times that I’ve done this route they have both been closed. From the city centre to the park and back is about 50-55km.
CHANG DAO AND PHRAO: Riding to Chang Dao can also mean dealing with fast moving traffic on major roads. However, there are less chaotic roads, one of which is in the Maejo area. Most people head towards Mae Taeng though, and once you are over the hill (not a difficult hill) the roads are very quiet. You can either stay for a spell in Chang Dao—the Chang Dao Nest is great as a stopover— or keep going to the quiet district of Phrao. The road to Phrao from Chang Dao is a great ride, and there are no steep hills. It’s a harder ride only because of the distance. It can be done in one day, but even for a fairly good cyclist it will take at least six hours to get there and back. You should explore the many smaller roads around the Sri Lanna National Park, or even stop at the houseboats at Mae Gnat Lake. It’s rustic, but blissful under the stars at night in the winter months.
DOI INTHANNON: If you read the comments on cycling website Stava, riding to the summit of Thailand’s highest mountain, Doi Inthannon, is difficult for the best of cyclists. Getting to the foot of the mountain in itself is quite a long ride and getting to the 40km summit is not easy for any amateur cyclist. You could take your time and stay a night in accommodation inside the national park, visiting the waterfalls and other attractions on the way. In winter it will actually be cold close to the top of the mountain.
OB KHAN: Much closer to the city is Ob Khan National Park. Follow the Canal Road out of Chiang Mai towards Hang Dong and the turn off to the park at about 14km 54 | OCTOBER 2017
HARD RIDES
SAMOENG LOOP & THE MAE SA VALLEY: There are, obviously, two ways to ride around this famous loop located in the Mae Sa Valley. Some people think the steeper hills are going north, which means entering the loop from the road to Mae Rim. You can’t miss the turn off as it’s signposted on the Mae Rim Road. You can also take the opposite route and enter the loop from the Samoeng side on the Canal Road. There are many things to see on the way, including snake farms, elephant camps, numerous cafés and bangkok101.com
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Doi Inthannon
restaurants, as well as the scenic spot of Mon Cham. All around the loop you can take detours to mountain top villages, but how many you visit will depend on how many hills you can handle. Samoeng itself is beautiful, especially in winter with its early morning fog, but going there will add about another 12km to your journey. You should be a strong rider to take this on, especially if you want to do it in one shot. It would take most cyclists about 4.5 hours, although serious amateurs might do it in 3 hours. You could also do the Mon Cham Loop, which is still hard but shorter. MAE WANG/MAE WIN: Head down the Canal Road in the Hang Dong direction and 23.5km after the turning on Suthep Road take the right about 70 metres before the lights. The road will lead to Wat Bo Luang, but that’s a dead end. Instead turn left and take your first right. This road, if you look on the map, forms a kind of triangle. We call this the Mae Wang Loop. You can expand this into a square, which is what we call the Onion Loop as you’ll find spring onion farms on the way. There is a network of roads you can follow, but if you ride along this triangle it’ll lead you back to the main road and you can make your way home to Chiang Mai. The views are spectacular; the epitome of the sleepy picturesque postcard Chiang Mai. You’ll see few cars, which is bliss after dealing with the busy—under construction—Canal Road. This is a favourite ride of many local cyclists, and a day out to remember. It’s in the hard category as you can easily ride over 100 km and meet a few small hills on the way. As you’ll see on any map, you have the option to stray much further into the wilderness. That could mean 200km, so it’s a good idea to put your bikes in a red songthaew truck and ask the driver to take you to the bangkok101.com
aforementioned intersection. If your anodyne for some of life’s woes is getting back to nature, then this ride should be the perfection prescription.
SPICE ROADS
If you don’t have your own bicycle, or don’t want to bring it to Chiang Mai, you can rent bicycles at Spice Roads, starting from B500 per day for city, hybrid, and mountain bikes. All the bikes are in good shape and are of a high standard. They also have just about every size. Spice Roads is a bicycle tour company, so an organized tour with guides, and vans if need be, is also an option (call 053 215 837 for more info). Speaking for myself, I prefer the opportunity to get lost. www.spiceroads.com
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Café Culture Lanna Style Chiang Mai continues to attract legions of die-hard digital nomads By James Austin Farrell
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hiang Mai may have the most ruthless enforcement of the midnight closing time in all of Thailand. In fact, it would be hard to find a place in the country where the law is adhered to with such alacrity. Our ‘Rose of the North’, city of culture, capital of Lanna—call it what you will—was never much of a hotspot for evening decadence and nighttime depravity anyway, but one thing we do right these days is coffee shops and cafés. You can believe the hype disseminated on any number of café-related blogs describing Chiang Mai as a bona fide Zion regarding these places where coffee is coffee, but someone took great care to ensure it was quaffed in peace. Many of the aforementioned blogs—most out of date now—were mainly written by folks who followed the Yellow Brick Road to Chiang Mai from far-flung places and tried to make a living here. Such people might go by the name of “digital nomad”, although following a couple of years of controversy containing alleged pyramid schemes—and self-hyping millennials never shy about telling the world how they are “crushing it”—the term has
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become somewhat sullied. Most people that work here online may prefer the term “remote worker”. And there are a lot of them. Outside of the backpacking hub inside the moat, closer to Nimmanhaemin Road and Chiang Mai University, you won’t get far without bumping into this new species of worker that has chosen to forgo the office and enjoy, perhaps, life working on the road. Check any number of international media or digital nomad websites for the “best place to live as a digital nomad” and Chiang Mai will either be top of the list or at least be in the top ten. One of the reasons of course is affordability, but also because of the number of places one can work in peace, ensconced within the walls of some of the prettiest cafes you’ll ever likely come across. The controversy surrounding digital nomads in Chiang Mai arose because of the fact so many people flocked here without much of an idea, and then settled for selling other people ‘5 ways’ they could do the same (hence, the alleged pyramid scheme). Many aspiring nomads quickly found out that their Wizard of Oz was an unscrupulous affiliate marketer. bangkok101.com
focus on chiang mai | TRAVEL That aside, serious Chiang Mai remote workers can be found all over the city. Many of them hidden in the cafés that look more like ideal homes, but with coffee and food and an early closing time. The kinds of cafés listed here are all quite grand, and each puts its own unique stamp on café culture. And while some are great for remote workers looking for a comfortable space, others are simply worthy of a visit for their beauty and charm. CAFÉ DE OASIS: Set back from the street, opposite Chiang Mai’s newish convention centre, you could easily walk past this exquisitely decorated traditional Thai house and its shady surrounding garden. The café is owned by the same people that own the Oasis Spa, one of the older spas in the city. It’s designed in a way to give privacy, although there is one main sitting area in the middle of the house. That is surrounded by garden seating, and also two air-conditioned rooms. One of the rooms seems as if it was designed for meetings and is quite sparse, while the other is lined with antique shelves and rather dazzling colourful chandeliers. Any one of these spaces makes a great work space and can provide you with the feeling of dining in your own quite fine home. The menu consists of mostly Thai dishes, although there is a breakfast menu that offers such things as Western-style omelets and bacon. One of the main draws is the baked goods—all made in-house, and exceptional to even the most hard-to-please cake aficionados. 02/9 Moo 1 Chiang Puak | Open daily: 8am-5pm Tel: 053 920 191 | www.facebook/cafedeoasiscm SHEWITKHONTAMMADA: The name is pronounced Chee-wit-kon-tamadar, and the café is fairly new to the scene. And it’s about as close as you’ll get to a five-starhotel-feel café as you can get. The Chinese-owned café has no ties whatsoever to the very similar sounding coffee shop and restaurant in Chiang Rai, but if you have the chance visit there, too, as it’s also one of the stand-out places in Northern Thailand. The name, which roughly translates as “the life of an ordinary person”, is anything but ordinary. There are four floors, each exquisitely decorated with no expense spared—that includes the bathrooms. It’s ideal for private meetings, and has a 24-seat boardroom bangkok101.com
table on the third floor. Meetings often take place on the second floor, which also has plenty of private spaces. If remote workers can afford it, there probably isn’t a better place to hide away in the city. The extensive range of Thai food and Thai/Korean/ Japanese fusion food is cooked to a high standard. None of the dishes contains pork due to the owner being Muslim. It also serves everything else you’d expect to find in a coffee shop. Coming very soon will be a Japanese restaurant on the fourth floor, which should be finished by the time this story is published. Located on the street parallel to Nimmanhaemin Road, it is without doubt the classiest and certainly most comfortable cafe in the area. Surprisingly, and blissfully for some, it remains fairly quiet. That has a lot to do with it being possibly the biggest café in the city, and the fact people complain they can’t pronounce the name and so can’t suggest it to others. 21/10 Soi 9 Sirimangklajan Rd. | Open daily: 9am-9pm Tel: 053 216 883 | www.facebook.com/shewitkhontammada FERN FOREST CAFÉ: This is perhaps the only café in Chiang Mai’s old city worthy of inclusion on this list. A family run operation, the café is somewhat of an oasis in the middle of the traffic congested roads just beyond the city walls. The owner’s daughter told us her mum owned coffee plantations in the hills and wanted to bring those hills into the city. That she did, and as the name suggests the garden is decorated with ferns as well as trees offering shade to customers. A pond also runs along the front of the restaurant full of koi carp. The building itself is an old house, painted all white inside and out, giving it in an English tea shop vibe. There’s even a piano in the corner, used mostly on weekends when jazz is played throughout the day. OCTOBER 2017 | 57
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There is a selection of Thai dishes and all-day breakfasts, as well as American and Italian food geared towards the many Westerners you’ll find in this part of the city. The upstairs has a colonial feel to it, the kind of place you’d expect to drink afternoon tea and scones—or cakes, all of which are made on site. Unfortunately, the upper floor is closed on weekdays, but can be booked for meetings or events.
Nonetheless, as it’s one of the prettiest looking cafés in the city area, and as such it is often rammed on the weekends. But on the weekdays it is a very relaxing place to spend an afternoon. The dining area now includes what used to be the garden and, according to manager, after the fire they have doubled their space. The menu is mostly made up of Thai dishes, but they also offer steaks with Thai spicy spices. Pastries are made fresh on site every day in their own pastry kitchen. It’s well worth the 20-minute drive out of town, if not just to see the café but to check out the surrounding areas—one of the more scenic areas close to the city. If you are looking for solitude get there early or late in the evening as this once hidden gem has (rightly) become a rite of passage for locals and visiting tourists. Open daily: 8am–6pm | 133/11 Moo 5, Mae Rim Tel: 053 860 996 | www.facebook.com/mysalacafe
54/1 Singharaj Road, Sirphum | Open daily: 8:30am-8:30pm Tel: 053 416 204 | www.facebook.com/fernforestcafe
SALA CAFÉ: Just outside the city, in the Mae Rim district, lies Sala Café. Situated on a large plot of land, this one time Chiang Mai landmark burned to the ground but was rebuilt shortly after. The two-storey building then became a one-storey building, and the present manager— the owner’s son—says they have also made some changes to the menu. The pull here are the mesmerizing views of the mountains in the distance, and also the quiet hamlet where the site is situated. The grounds are very large, as is the building itself, offering serenity and quiet. 58 | OCTOBER 2017
BAAN SUAN KAFE: Like Sala Cafe, people flock here on the weekends and it can get very busy. The attraction is quite the opposite, though, as it is located right in the foothills of the mountain. Located not too far from Chiang Mai University, and a short drive from one of the better temples in the city—Wat Oemong—the property is right inside the jungle, and so it remains cool much of the day with the canopy shielding it from the sun. It’s spread over quite a large area, which includes a stream running through the lower half of the grounds. There you can sit on swings over the water and it feels as if the city is a long way off. There is also massage offered next to the restaurant, as well as some walking paths into the jungle. The food is mostly Thai, with some bakery items as well. But take note digital nomads… there is no Wi-Fi (and rightly so, as that would defeat the purpose of coming to such a rustic jungle hideout). Around the corner is a large plot of land owned by Chiang Mai University Agricultural faculty, replete with a lake, rice paddies, and walking paths. Open daily: 8am–5pm (closed on the 15th & 16th of every month) 170 Moo 3, Mae Hia | Tel: 086 427 1042 www.facebook.com/bansuancafe bangkok101.com
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What To See, What To Do By Gary Anthony Rutland
QUEEN SIRIKIT BOTANICAL GARDENS: Situated atop the lush Doi Suthep mountains, on the Mae Rim Samoeng Road, the spectacular Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens opened in 1993 and are a must-see for nature lovers. One of the best times to visit is the morning when the surrounding hills are often shrouded in mist—keeping the temperature perfect for strolling around and marveling at the spectacular flora and fauna while enjoying superb mountain views (mist permitting, of course). The gardens are not just for show though, and are used for both the conservation and study of plants. There’s a Glasshouse Complex and eight display greenhouses where visitors can learn—among many other interesting facts—that there are 900 genera of orchids, with 25,000 species worldwide (of which Thailand can lay claim to 177 genera, and 150 endemic species). And don’t miss the deadly beautiful carnivorous plants with their fabulous shapes and names such as Bladderworts, Butterworts, and of course the (in)famous Venus Fly Trap. The gardens also have numerous walking trails, a floral clock, several streams, and a fountain. But perhaps the most spectacular highlight is the recently opened Forest Canopy Walkway, which is 400m long and 20m high (and cost 50 million baht to build). Up among the trees you are witness to a truly birds-eye view of the forest and the surrounding hills. Sections of the walkway have a glass floor and if you’re really lucky you may catch Forest Canopy Walkway a glimpse of a flying lizard. These reptiles don’t actually “fly” but glide—for up to nine metres allegedly— but they are not very big so your chances of seeing one are slim. However, the walkway is still an incredible attraction, and even if the swaying is a little off-putting for the more faint-hearted, it’s still an experience well worth having. MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART: Chiang Mai has long been renowned for its skilled artisans and craftsmen and is a city that deeply cares about, and fosters culture and the arts. And while it may not be the country’s capital of culture, it’s definitely the culture capital of the North. This status was confirmed to an even greater degree last year with the opening of the MAIIAM Museum of Contemporary Art, located 20 minutes from the centre of Chiang Mai in the Sankamphaneg district. What was once an industrial site was transformed into a 3000 sq.m modern, state-of-the-art facility by the Bangkok-based architectural team All(zone). It’s a truly fascinating addition to the Northern arts scene, and was opened in memory of founder Eric Bunnag Booth’s great, great aunt Chao Chom Iam—a royal consort to King Rama V—and is a direct result of the family’s desire to share their private art collection with the general public. Showcasing both temporary and long-term exhibitions of visual art, design, and fashion, the facility also stages performances, film screenings, lectures, and workshops. There’s also a shop offering a wide array of books, shirts, bag, souvenirs, and limited edition art works, and a restaurant for hungry “culture vultures”. www.maiiam.com bangkok101.com
DINING IN STYLE
Chiang Mai has long been home to exclusive hotels and restaurants and one prime example is the captivating Dhara Dhevi. Set within a beautiful 60 acres of greenery—complete with jogging paths throughout the extensive grounds, as well as an 18-suite spa and numerous private villas—dining (or staying) here is a truly exceptional and authentic ‘old’ Northern Thai experience. The resort’s Le Grand Lanna Thai restaurant is just one of the property’s several luxury dining options. Housed in traditional raised wooden pavilions, festooned with art and antiques illustrating the region’s unique Lanna cultural heritage, guests are invited to feast on an array of regional specialties, including: fish patties with cucumber relish; spicy river prawn soup with straw mushrooms served in young coconut; deep fried sea bass fillet with sweet and sour sauce; and a dessert of mango with sticky rice and a variety of seasonal tropical fruits. In addition, during the course of the meal diners are royally entertained by a traditional dance show, expertly performed by smiling members of the hotel’s cultural team. The hotel also offers cooking lessons, while the arts and crafts village has daily activities and demonstrations. www.dharadhevi.com
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Culture Meets Couture Chiang Mai puts its best fashion foot forward
Fashion show photos courtesy of TAT
By Gary Anthony Rutland
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hiang Mai is often referred to as the “Rose of the North”, surrounded by and famed for its proximity to overwhelming natural jungle and mountain beauty. However, it has also become increasingly popular for the number and variety of cultural experiences it has to offer. On a recent press tour, organized by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), journalists were invited to learn about, and witness firsthand, the continuing success of the local—and national—fabric and fashion industries. Thailand has long been famous for the quality and diversity of its fabrics, and many now believe the time has come for the Kingdom to enjoy the spotlight being shone on it by the fashion world. On the weekend of August 18th to 20th, the TAT hosted the spectacular The Magic of Thai Fabric fashion show
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in the majestic grounds of the Royal Park Rajapreuk, just outside Chiang Mai city. Featuring the eye-catching work of five of Thailand’s top fashion designers and their students, all working with fabrics and designs that reflect and represent different regions and styles of the nation, this opulent extravaganza was not just a who’s who of the Thai fashion world but was also of sufficient interest to attract Nigel Barker, ex-judge on America’s Next Top Model, and now a highly respected fashion photographer and author. Having co-hosted the TV show with super model Tyra Banks, Barker is instantly recognizable and still an influential figure in American TV fashion circles. He’s currently heavily involved in the TV show The Face, which has a Thai version that sees the winners appearing on American television. In short, when he Nigel Barker bangkok101.com
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speaks the fashion world listens, and he was mightily impressed with what he saw in Chiang Mai. “Thailand’s always been famous for its fabrics” he noted enthusiastically. “From what I’ve seen at this event their styles are now ready to enter the wider fashion world. I saw a mix of dramatic eclectic risk-taking designs that encompassed punk, Elizabethan, and Mongolian styles that could easily work in the United States, and I’ll definitely be talking about Thai fashion at the upcoming New York Fashion Week.” Throughout the evening, as Nigel was greeted by friends old and new, it was clear the esteem in which he’s held in Thai fashion circles and having him attend the show was a notable coup for both TAT and the Thai fashion scene in general. The show demonstrated a bold and diverse use of fabrics, colours, and designs, and was seamlessly executed to the delight of the attentive and appreciative crowd—who earlier in the day had taken the opportunity to browse the striking grounds while surveying a selection of the designers striking works. The evening was a resounding success and one left the show confident that Thailand’s fabric and fashion industries are very much in the ascendant. The day before the show the TAT had organized a visit to Ban Don Luang, approximately 20 minutes southwest of Lamphun, to get a “behind-the-scenes” and first-hand glimpse of local Thai fabric production. This village has 62 | OCTOBER 2017
been dedicated to hand-weaving cotton since 1992, and hosts several exhibitions during the course of the year that offer homestays and see the village roads transformed into a walking-street where the upwards of 1,000 visitors a day can wander in and around the homes of the workers— marvelling at their skill and trying their hand at fabric making themselves (if so inclined). Depending on the operative, a metre of cotton can take an hour to weave and net the artisan around 40 baht. Weaving tends to be an all-female endeavour, with skills handed down through the generations. But the trade is also taught in the village school, as the locals attempt to keep their independent way of life both intact and flourishing. The villagers here are proud to trace their roots to and call themselves Tai Yun—their historic style of dress can be even found in the mural paintings at Wat Phra Sing Waramahavihan in Chiang Mai. Their wares, which are for sale in the village, can be found at Wararot Market, and the famous Night Bazaar in Chiang Mai, as well as in the Prathunam fashion district in Bangkok. But if you’re in the area, I’d highly recommend a journey to Don Luang—for either a half or full day-trip, or as an overnight homestay—as it provides an authentic and engaging experience that shows visitors real Thai rural lifestyles. And, as is always the case in Thailand, you’re guaranteed a warm welcome. For more information about visiting Ban Don Luang, visit: www.tourismthailand.org. bangkok101.com
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Plan Your Trip
Upcoming cultural festivals and unique special events NOVEMBER 2-4, 2017 Photo by John Shedrick/Flickr.com
YI PENG FESTIVAL: While most people in Thailand celebrate the annual Loy Krathong festival by making krathongs and floating them down the river, Chiang Mai folk not only float their krathongs but they also release floating lanterns into the night sky in celebration of the Yi Peng Festival. The belief that all the ills and misfortunes will be carried away with the lanterns as they float upwards.
JANUARY 19-21, 2018 BO SANG UMBRELLA FESTIVAL: This 3-day festival is celebrated in January each year and honours the efforts of local artisans—specifically the art of Bo Sang umbrellas. The handicrafts made by the local craftspeople are eyepopping in their creativity—resulting in delightfully bold, yet exquisitely intricate pieces. These colourful hand painted umbrellas have made Bosang Village famous, and the festival of celebration includes a parade, cultural shows, traditional market, live music, and other exciting events.
JANUARY 20, 2018 CHIANG MAI JAZZ FESTIVAL: Dust off your dancing shoes and get ready for the 2018 Chiang Mai Jazz Festival featuring world-class Jazz performances. Hosted in the beautiful and scenic outdoor setting of the Promenade Mall, the line-up of talented artists—from Thailand and over the world—includes The Swing Kings (left), and Jazz Kamikaze. Check online for updates closer to the date. www. facebook.com/chiangmaijazzfestival
MARCH 1-3, 2018
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Photo by Ashkan Sharifi
THAILAND INTERNATIONAL BALLOON FESTIVAL: Every year, dozens of hot air balloon pilots are brought together from around the world to take part in the Thailand International Balloon Festival. Many colourful balloons with the marvellous decorations are released into the sky at sunrise in the morning. Then, in the evening, join in on two nights of festivities featuring food, drinks, cultural performances, and tethered hot air balloon rides. Check out www.thailandballoonfestival. com for more info and updates.
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Hidden Treasure Legends, lions, and longans in Lamphun province By Gary Anthony Rutland
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pproximately 25km south of Chiang Mai, surrounded by lush countryside famed for its production of longan fruit, Lamphun is one of Thailand’s oldest cities—although it’s now merely townsized—and is a bit of a hidden treasure. It was founded by Queen Chama Thevi as the capital of the Haripunchai (or Mon) Kingdom, sometime in the 9th century, and the founding queen is revered to this day. Her statue can be found in the south west section of town, near the main morning market, where locals still make regular offerings to her. Wat Phra That Haripunchai, in the middle of the town centre, is one of Northern Thailand’s most important temples and its likeness is found on the reverse of the oneQueen Chama Thevi satang coin. The phra tat in its title indicates the presence of a Buddha relic, which in this case is believed to be one of the Buddha’s hairs— and it is said to have been interred around the same time as the wat was founded, in 897. The chedi is one of the very few examples still remaining of Mon architecture in Thailand, and with its accompanying buildings it’s one of the town’s main tourist attractions.
throughout Thailand, as well as a selection of local fabrics. It’s a delightful stroll back through the years, and the effect is continued when one exits onto an old road, at the end of which you’ll find the Noo Toon Lam Yai restaurant. The lam yai in the name refers to one of the types of noodle served here, and it’s a great place to continue your journey through the past while getting a glimpse, and taste, of a typical Thai worker’s restaurant and meal. Rows of bench seats pack the large triangular space and the limited menu is scratched on a chalkboard, or recited for you by your server. To all intents and purposes it’s the old equivalent of a Thai worker’s fast food menu, with delicious dim sum and their signature brothy soups on offer—all of which are cheap, tasty, and filling. Try their hot Thai tea for a sweet contrast to the main course. The bridge and the restaurant are both quaint reminders of a Thailand that is disappearing far too quickly and are a good example of the Lamphun experience as a whole.
Khun Tan Tunnel
Wat Phra That Haripunchai
Exiting by the temple’s main gate, guarded by two stone Singhas—mythical lion-like creatures—one can walk across the road and then continue across the river courtesy of an enclosed wooden bridge that houses a small market offering the usual array of tourist trinkets found 6 4 | OCTOBER 2017
Further afield, travel 35 minutes south and east to visit the Doi Khun Tan National Park, where the Saphan Khao Tha Chompu (also known as the ‘White Bridge’, for obvious reasons), and the Khun Tan Tunnel (at 1,352 metres it’s the longest in Thailand), will appeal to railway buffs—as both are part of Thailand’s train network. But even if you’re not a trainspotter, both attractions are set amidst stunning natural beauty and are just two more of the “hidden treasures” this area is home to. White bridge bangkok101.com
Yaang Come Village A calm and serene oasis of beauty
Yaang Come Village 90/3 Sridonchai Rd. Tel: 05 323 7222 www.yaangcome.com
Located in the center of Chiang Mai—less than 100 metres from the busy Sridonchai Road and the city’s famed Night Bazaar—the Yaang Come Village hotel welcomes visitors with a warm greeting and first class service. There are 42 traditional Tai-Lue rooms for guests to choose from, each fully furnished with decor carefully crafted by local artisans, and equipped with a private balcony offering garden and pool views. This mix of traditional elements and modern amenities, including satellite TV, caters to the needs of business and leisure visitors alike. The hotel’s unique architecture showcases the rich history and culture of Northern Thailand, while the lush greenery of the property provides a calm and serene oasis of beauty for visitors. The centerpiece of this greenery is an old and majestic Yaang (Indian Rubber) tree, and its lush canopy shades the property’s Yaang Come Restaurant where guest can enjoy their meals. Open daily from 7am till 10 pm, the restaurant boasts an impressive menu, which is a delicious blend of both authentic Thai and international dishes. Diners can choose between indoor or open-air dining. Or, for a more romantic experience, request an evening candlelit dinner amidst the beautiful garden. For relaxing the Lanna Come Spa has a wide selection of spa packages and treatments, while the outdoor saltwater swimming pool—with Jacuzzi and pool side bar—offers a perfect way to beat the heat. Other hotel highlights include: a meeting room; library; free parking; concierge service; transportation and car rental; and free Wi-Fi in all areas. Without a doubt, the Yaang Come Village is the perfect place for a relaxing holiday in Chiang Mai.
TRAVEL | upcountry now
WAX CASTLE FESTIVAL October 2-5
The Sakhon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival is held annually, occurring at the end of the Buddhist Lent period. The event pays homage to Phra That Choeng Chum, as devotees wish for a happy home life—as though they were in a castle—as well as wealth in the next life. Using beeswax, the local people create molded Buddhist temples, shrines, and other wonderful wax structures. The most artistic talents from around the province bring their creations to be shown off in a procession for all to see. In addition, there are boat races and cultural performances that showcase local lifestyles.
RAP BUA FESTIVAL Until October 4
A tradition long celebrated by the people of Bang Phli in Samut Prakan province, this annual lotus receiving festival— known as the Rap Bua Festival—takes place in the morning. People line up along the Samrong canal to offer lotus flowers to Luang Pho Tor by throwing the lotus flowers to an elaborately decorated boat carrying an image of the Lord Buddha. You can also experience the Thai style of living in the Bang Phli retro floating market where visitors can watch the cultural performances and taste some food and/or local sweets, as well as shop for OTOP products.
BUFFALO RACING FESTIVAL October 4
Have you ever wondered how fast a buffalo can run? Well, ponder no more as the annual Buffalo Racing Festival will provide you with the thrilling answer. The event takes place in front of Chonburi Provincial Administration Office, and aside from the speed-crazy races there are lots of other activities on offer, including a Buffalo Decoration contest where you can see buffaloes amusingly decorated with colourful clothes and even sparkling jewels, and a Buffalo Pageant Contest in which you can cheer on your favourite bovine. In addition, there’s a Young Lady Farmer Contest, and lots of delectable foods from many vendors.
ILLUMINATED BOAT & RED CROSS FAIR Until October 6
In every year, Illuminated Boat Procession is celebrated in Nakhon Phanom. This remarkable annual event marks the end of Buddhist Lent with a magnificent parade of illuminated boats floating past the Nakhon Phanom City Hall and along the Mekong River, decorated in lights incorporating Buddhist motifs. The event pays respect to Buddha and the sacred Naga deities inhabiting the river. In addition to the boat procession, there are street parades and various shows. Visitors can also take a stroll through the Red Cross Fair, where there are booths selling various kinds of goods as well as local performances. 66 | OCTOBER 2017
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ART
| ART & CULTURE
DEPARTURES
Masterpieces of Contemporary Canadian Printmaking
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his exhibition presents over 35 two- and three-dimensional works by 17 internationally recognized Canadian artists who are expanding the boundaries of printmaking to pursue their personal visions—forging surprising work imbued with originality and creative significance. These masterpieces of contemporary Canadian printmaking showcase the works of: DEREK BESANT, ELMYNA BOUCHARD, SEAN CAULFIELD, STEVEN DIXON, KAREN DUGAS, ALEXANDRA HAESEKER, LIBBY HAGUE, FLORIN HATEGAN, LIZ INGRAM, WALTER JULE, DAVIDA KIDD, GUY LANGEVIN, MARLENE MACCALLUM, MARC SIEGNER, ROBIN SMITH, OTIS TAMASAUSKAS, and TRACY TEMPLETON. In an age dominated by the images of advertising and the spectacle of the jumbotron, these artists are extending traditional analogue printmaking techniques—such as wood-block, mezzotint, and screen-printing—in tour de force works that address contemporary issues. Some of the works also enlist photo-mechanical and digital technologies to challenge traditional notions of printmaking as craft, while positioning photography in the realm of the hand-made. The resulting work is both highly conceptual and visually seductive. While Canada is geographically and culturally isolated, its artists are acutely aware of world graphic traditions, drawing freely on Asian and European models. The hybrid images found in this exhibition speak of the “search for identity within diversity”—a predicament that almost all Canadians seem to feel acutely. DEPARTURES: MASTERPIECES OF CONTEMPORARY CANADIAN PRINTMAKING runs from OCTOBER 19-NOVEMBER 26 at ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART (99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd). Viewing hours are Tuesday to Saturday, 10:30am till 7pm, and Sundays from 10:30am till 5.30pm. For more information, call 02 422 2092. www.ardelgallery.com
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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions
UNTIL JANUARY 7, 2018 Through the Lens of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) 939 Rama I Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 10am-9pm 02 214 6630-8 | www.bacc.or.th
The BACC and the Royal Photographic Society of Thailand present this exhibition as part of the ‘In Remembrance of HM King Bhumibol: The Supreme Artist’ project conceived in recognition of the late King’s remarkable artistic talent, and of his royal grace as a Thai art patron. Curated by Nitikorn Kraivixian, many of the 200 photographs by the late monarch have never been publicly exhibited before. The show will be divided into three periods of the King’s lifetime, including black-and-white photographs featuring the prince and princesses from the early days of their childhood.
OCTOBER 12-DECEMBER 16 Emotion as Reason
Bangkok University Gallery Bangkok University Gallery Bldg, Kluai Nam Thai campus, Rama IV Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm Tel: 02 350 3626 | fab.bu.ac.th/buggallery
Within the learning process, generally we are taught to control or limit our emotions. However, in our real life, not all situations can be solved with reason—some go beyond reasons. In this show artist Jarasporn Chumsri reconsiders emotions through her paintings. She delivers her expressions through semi-abstract forms, and her processes are not fixed with reasons, but follow the “harmony” of reasons and emotions. The paintings she will exhibit have been painted over the course of one year—reflecting everything in the life of this young painter and her feelings towards the late King, whom she looked to as “Father”.
UNTIL OCTOBER 31 Japanese Contemporary Art Show 2017 La Lanta Fine Art
245/14, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm, Sun by appointment Tel: 02 260 5381 | www.lalanta.com
Once a year, the partnership project curates an exhibition of contemporary Japanese artists to exhibit in La Lanta Fine Art’s Bangkok space, encouraging the local audience to explore the art practice of international artists. This year, over 40 artworks by 11 participating artists are on display. The artists include: Yoshitomo Nara; Takashi Murakami; Kaisuke Katsuki; Arata Haguchi; En Kato; Naoko Nojima; Osamu Watanabe; Ryoto Akaike; Shinichi Wakasa; Ryozo Satake; and an artist simply named Kiriku. Each artist has his or her own unique style and preferred method of expression, making this a one-of-a-kind group exhibit. 70 | OCTOBER 2017
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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE
UNTIL NOVEMBER 11 Within Sight: Chinese New Painting in the Post Financial Crisis Era TANG CONTEMPORARY ART
3F, Golden Place Plaza, 153 Rajdamri Rd. Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm (Closed on Public Holidays) Tel: 02 652 2732 | www.tangcontemporary.com
The 2008 financial crisis not only changed the situation of the global economy but, more deeply, it affected global politics and even the valuations of cultures. In China this moment began an artistic evolution within the country’s younger generation. In this group show, the full title of which is ‘Within Sight: Chinese New Paintings in the Post Financial Crisis Era’, most of the artists exhibiting grew up against this societal backdrop. The artists exhibiting are Chen Ke, Chen Yujun, Ma Ke, Luo Quanmu, Li Changlong, Xiang Nan, and Li Qing.
UNTIL JANUARY 25, 2018 Stand. Move. (A Labyrinth) H Project Space
201 Soi 12 Sathorn Rd. Viewing hours: Daily, 10am-6pm, Tue by appointment Tel: 085 021 5508 | www.facebook.com/hprojectspace
The language and architecture of barriers belie a gamut of significance: privacy, control, and protection, but also division and difference. The particularly skewed context of H Project Space—a 19th century architectural space amidst a modern metropolis—is heightened by the labyrinth construction of artist Jason Wee, an experience that mixes claustrophobia and surprise. The show asks questions of the impact of conceptualizations and representations of space, and its “proper” use. During the run of the exhibition, Wee will return in early November to reshape the labyrinth.
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OCTOBER 2017 | 7 1
ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight
In Mint Condition
The recently renovated National Gallery remains a small but charming museum with a European style design Words and photos by Luc Citrinot
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he National Gallery differs greatly from other art institutions. It mostly shows historical paintings of Thailand, and the fact that the building is the former Royal Mint Building—a European style construction designed in 1902 by Italian engineer Carlo Allegri—confers a kind of solemnity to the exhibited pieces. The layout of the museum is also rather unique. The oldest paintings are located on the upper floor of the main building, with a series of beautiful miniatures dating back to the mid 19th century. The ground floor, meanwhile, hosts 19th and 20th century painting, while the lower level is dedicated to contemporary arts. Secular art is very recent in Thailand. It dates back from the time of Rama V when Siam adopted many of Europe’s customs and fashions. Among them, figurative Western-style painting became popular.
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The most interesting of the portrait series are those of the Royal Family, and assorted nobles, painted between the end of the 19th century and about 1920. They testify of the attempt of Siamese painters to adopt a Western style. In addition, the choice of dark colours on the wall— burgundy red for the upper floor, dark green on the ground floor—adds a distinctive elegance. Another current highlight is the hall of sculptures, showing art pieces from the 1940s to the late 1960s. This was a time where the influence of Italian artist and sculptor Corrado Feroci—better known under his Thai name Silpa Bhirasri—was deeply evident in Thailand’s modern art movement. The rigidity of some of the sculptures is very similar to the sculptures produced during the same period of time in Germany, Italy, and the Soviet Union.
A special room is currently dedicated to paintings by the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej. The King was a rather talented painter and produced dozens of portraits of his wife, Queen Sirikit. Influences of cubism and new realism are perceptible in the King’s portraits. To complement the permanent collection, the National Gallery regularly organizes temporary exhibitions of contemporary art, showing some striking art pieces which demonstrate that Thailand’s art scene is livelier than ever.
National Gallery
4 Chao Fa Rd. Open: Wed-Sun, 9am-4pm Tel: 02 281 2224 Admission: B200 (photos inside are not allowed) bangkok101.com
ART & CULTURE | special report
Cultural Calendar This month the 19th International Festival of Dance & Music presents arresting ballet productions, a symphony orchestra, and a Broadway musical classic
West Side Story By Lekha Shankar
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he 19th International Festival of Dance and Music continues this month with three unique and arresting cultural programs coming to Bangkok. First up is Beauty and the Beast by the French contemporary ballet company Malandain Ballet Biarritz, which is being performed for one night only on Monday October 2nd. Founded in 1998 by the great choreographer Thierry Malandain, this company is today considered one of the best in the world, having given nearly 100 performances worldwide. Beauty and the Beast is one of their sensational new productions and has played to rave reviews in many countries, including the US. This ballet-drama epitomizes the supreme creative and intellectual skills of the choreographer, himself described as “a scholar-creator who knows music and ballet history by heart, and composes a wordless dance”. This take on the classic fairy tale is a highly symbolic, almost intellectual, version, where the Beast seems to be battling with a dual personality and wrestling with his inner demons. He represents the animal within, while the Beauty represents the human within. Needless to say they have a lot of clashes before they finally find peace with each other. Malandain’s productions are noted for their energetic movements, elegant costumes, symbolic props, sets, and lighting, and in this production he revels in all of them. The beast wears a ‘mask’ to cover his duality, and when he removes it there is shining sunlight all around (compared to the suffused lighting earlier). Meanwhile, Tchaikovsky’s magnificent music, of course, is the linchpin of the whole drama. Vanessa Silvy, Cultural Attaché of the French Embassy, stated that she was proud to bring this new and exciting ballet production, from one of the top French 74 | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 7
contemporary ballet companies in the world, to Thai audiences. The second program in October is the biggest and best-known show at the Festival—the Broadway musical West Side Story. It’s a production noted for its passion, romance, high drama, and high-voltage energy, and it is considered to be the number 1 American musical of all time. There have been many versions of the musical, but this one will be especially riveting as it retains the original choreography of Jerome Robbins. The other worldfamous names involved—Leonard Bernstein who wrote the music, Stephen Sondheim who wrote the lyrics, and Arthur Laurents who wrote the book—all contribute to the musical’s enduring popularity around the globe. Songs like “Maria”, “Tonight”, “Somewhere”, “America”, and “I Feel Pretty” are sure to have audiences up on their feet.
West Side Story The story is a modern Romeo and Juliet tale, except that the two warring families of Verona in Shakespeare’s drama are replaced by two warring street gangs in 1950s bangkok101.com
special report | ART & CULTURE
Beauty and the Beast
Taming of the Shrew New York. The stage-musical was a huge hit, and when the 1961 movie version went on to win 10 Academy awards. The production coming to Bangkok has a large mixed cast of stars from around America. “We are proud to bring one of our best American stage productions to Thailand!” remarked Jillian Bonnardeaux, new spokesperson of the US Embassy. “Not everyone can go to Broadway, that’s why we’ve brought Broadway to Bangkok!” According to her, the story of West Side Story is even more relevant today, as it is about love and peace conquering fights and conflicts. “This production is ideal to encourage people-to-people relationships,” she added. “And that’s why we are happy to present it to the Thai audiences.” In fact, Bangkok is part of a big global tour for this Broadway production, which also includes stops in Europe, Australia, Asia. There’s no doubt that the musical will reach out to diverse audiences in all these countries, both for its arresting subject and its high artistic values. West Side Story will be staged over the course of West Side Story four days, from October 5th to October 8th, with two extra matinee shows on the weekend of October 7-8. The only purely musical concert this month, on Friday October 14th, features a very special orchestra whom we have not heard before in Bangkok, namely the Lithuanian National Symphony Orchestra. The famed orchestra was founded in 1940, and today performs at least 50 concerts a year all around the world, performing in top music halls around the world. For their Bangkok debut, Lithuania’s bangkok101.com
Lithuanian National Symphony Orchestra best-known orchestra will be conducted by Modestas Pitrenas and will play a wonderful repertoire of music— from Bach, to Liszt, to Greig. The last programme of the festival is Shakespeare’s raucous comedy Taming of the Shrew, presented in ballet-form, by Germany’s world-famous Stuttgart Ballet Company, on October 18th and 19th. The Stuttgart Ballet is a favourite among Thai audiences, having performed regularly at this festival. The famous Shakespearean romantic comedy, about the “taming” of the boisterous Katherine by the mercurial Petruchio, is expected to entertain both young and old with its physical antics, fun elements, grand sets, wonderful costumes, and energetic music. According to German Ambassador HE Peter Prugel, “Taming of the Shrew, with its colourful scenery and costumes, and joyful stirring music by Domenico Scarlatti, orchestrated by KurtHeinz Stolze, is the perfect ballet for the whole family!” It’s definitely the perfect show to end the 19th edition of Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance and Music, which this year offers a rich and varied selection for diverse audiences of all ages. The 19th International Festival of Dance & Music is on at The Thailand Cultural Centre (Main Hall), until October 19th. All shows begin at 7:30pm unless otherwise noted. For more information, call 02 247 0028, or visit www. bangkokfestivals.com. To order tickets online visit: www. thaiticketmajor.com OCTOBER 2017 | 75
ART & CULTURE | cinema scope
Film News & Screenings By Gary Anthony Rutland
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he prognosis is good for Crazy Medicine, an awardwinning short film written by Matt Carrell, wellknown on the Bangkok literary ‘noir’ scene as the author of the short story collection Thai Lottery, and the full length novels Thai Kiss, and Blood Brothers: Thai Style. Over the 21-minute course of the film the various characters encounter thrills, chills, and pills in the ‘Land of Smiles’. The genesis of the project dates back to a night in November 2016, in a Bangkok bar where Matt was sharing a bottle (or two?) of the red grape with local noir author James Newman (creator of ‘Joe Dylan’ a dysfunctional private detective and protagonist in the novels Bangkok Express and Fun City Punch). The pair discovered they shared a desire to see one of their own stories up on the big screen, so James—possibly emboldened by the Pinot and the Noir—revealed to Matt that he knew some local movie makers and shakers. Fast forward to April 2017 and James, now wearing his movie producer’s hat, is a frazzled mess as he attempts to deliver the film version of Matt’s short story on time and within budget. With the expert help of up-and-coming Hollywood director Richie Moore and a gaggle of local Thai and farang actors and crew, he’s spent days rushing around various Bangkok (and Ayutthaya) locations, including The Royal Oak pub (on Sukhumvit Soi 31/1) and The Black Pagoda on Patpong Soi 2. During the course of the filming they’ve been assaulted by irate ladyboys while trying to shoot at Nana Plaza at midnight, and had to convince a landlord that the scene they were shooting in his building was NOT for a “naughty movie” and that there was definitely no need for him to call the local police. The impressive cast includes local actors Chris Wegoda (the funnyman behind the long-running Bangkok Comedy Club), the luscious Libby Jennings, and the marvelously malicious and malevolent Maythavee Weiss. The finished film is a veritable visual treat and, in true thriller style, was delivered just in the nick of time for the Independent Film Festival season. Subsequently it’s gone on to win several awards, including: Best Narrative Short, Supporting Actress, and Trailer (LA Film Awards); Best Narrative, Original Story, Actor, Actress, Supporting Actress (Top Shorts); Best Ensemble (New York Film Awards); and Best Ensemble, Original Story, Supporting Actress, and Trailer (Festigious Film Awards). So… what’s it all about Alfie? The film begins by introducing us to 22-year-old Emily (Jennings), a first-class honours degree graduate who is sick and tired of being denigrated as part of the “snowflake generation”, young adults accused of having unrealistic expectations along with an over-inflated sense of their own importance. With no easy route into political journalism she decides she needs to make a splash and heads to Southeast Asia, where poverty and the drug 76 | OCTOBER 2017
trade are endemic—and in turn will hopefully provide her the with the sort of juicy story she needs. She heads to Bangkok where the darkest side of Asian and Western capitalism collide in spectacular fashion. Daeng (Wegoda) is the street-wise local who agrees to guide her through the seedy underbelly of Thai society and deliver a perfect climax for her exposé. It’s a journey that delivers a terrifying lesson as Emily discovers that to get that close to a big story there’s a big price to pay. This month, local film fans can join Matt, James, and some cast and crew members at the LiveLounge (10/47, Trendy Building, Sukumvit Soi 13) at 7pm on Saturday October 7th for a special screening of Crazy Medicine. Following the film there will be a panel discussion, and a free copy of the paperback edition of the original short story will be given to the first 20 people who show up brandishing a copy of this Bangkok 101 article. And who knows, maybe there’ll be some Pinot and Noir to help the “Medicine” go down. Watch the trailer here: www.crazymedicine.net bangkok101.com
music makers | ART & CULTURE
Just Imagine
Imagine Dragons puts on an intimate concert for lucky Bangkok fans
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By Rianka Mohan
here’s a chilling scene in the documentary Everyone Stares: The Police Inside Out, which shows members of the rock band The Police being shepherded through a crowd in a limousine. There’s no sound but the thud-thudding of hands on their car as it passes, and the screen fills up with nameless faces peering in through the glass, frightening in the ferocity of their fandom. Little wonder these artists live rarefied lives in impenetrable towers and tinted cars. And we’re left, willing to pay heavily to see our musical demigods in the flesh, belting out the tunes that build or break our hearts. One such opportunity came to a fortunate few on Friday, September 8th when the multi-platinum, biggest-rock-bandof-the-moment, Imagine Dragons, performed at the new Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park hotel. The by-invitation-only concert was organized exclusively for 500 guests and loyalists of the Marriott Rewards programme, to celebrate the launch of the 1,360-room hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 22, the flagship brand’s first Marquis designation property in Asia-Pacific. Bringing the band to Bangkok is Marriott’s latest offering in partnership with Universal Music Group (UMG), to go above and beyond what’s typically expected of a hotel chain. “By joining the biggest name in hospitality with the world’s leading music company, Marriott and UMG are providing music fans around the world with unique, exclusive experiences with some of today’s brightest stars at some of the world’s most prestigious properties,” explained Mike Tunnicliffe, Head of UMGB, US. A deceptively simple stage was contained within a makeshift tent by the hotel’s pool and before the concert began the gathered glitterati, which included influencers and press from around the world, milled about sipping wine, nibbling on hors d’oeuvres, and toying with the free, flashing glasses provided at the door. The mood changed in an instant at 8:30pm when smoky blue lights lit the stage. Front man Dan Reynolds’ utterance of “Sawadee khap” was borne across the tent by world-class acoustics, causing fans to cheer as a riotous one in return. And in bangkok101.com
response the band—made up of Reynolds, Wayne Sermon on guitar, Ben McKee on bass, and Daniel Platzman on drums—launched into the first song of the evening, “Thunder”, the hit single from their latest album, Evolve. Reynolds was engaging and oddly relatable, dressed in a loose, half-sleeved, button-down shirt, bouncing to the beat and hitting his vocal highs. The talented band did an epic job of maintaining the spirited energy of the crowd as they ran through their 60-minute set, highlights of which included “Believer”, “It’s Time”, “Whatever It Takes”, “I Bet My Life”, “Walking the Wire”, and of course, the longestcharting single ever on the Billboard Hot 100 music charts, “Radioactive”—which had Reynolds holding court banging away at a large drum while frenzied fans chanted along to the catchy hook. Despite their arena rock feel, the big, booming choruses, and the grandiose anthems, the scaled-down cozy venue seemed to work fine for the Las-Vegas quartet, who got their start playing the casino circuit there. Many times through the show, being a few hands away from Reynolds’ outstretched arm and Sermon’s wavy-haired, guitar-wielding person, I had to pinch myself. How is this band, that sells out stadiums and has already won two AMAs, five Billboard Music Awards, and a Grammy—didn’t Target just spend a staggering $8 million on a single ad with them?—come to be playing in Bangkok to a group no larger than the crowd at any Thai wedding… and for free?!! It’s the sort of money-can’t-buy experience that Marriott expects will differentiate them from their competition, and that memorable Friday night the proof was undoubtedly in the pudding. One look at the adoring throng clawing for the drumsticks Reynolds casually threw out at closing was enough proof that this was an unforgettable experience; the kind of experience that builds the kind of loyalty you can’t put a price on. For concert replay and other information, visit: www. facebook.com/marriottrewards OCTOBER 2017 | 7 7
Art & Culture
Commemorative Photo Feature
A KINGLY PYRE In an exclusive interview, FAD officer Kokiat Thongphud, chief architect for the Royal Crematorium, describes the design of King Rama IX’s funeral edifice Words and photos by Joe Cummings/CPA Media Additional photos by Lekha Shankar
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t would be very difficult to overestimate the significance of this month’s five-day funeral for the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who passed away on October 13th 2016 following a long period of illness. The death of the 88-year-old monarch capped a seven-decade reign—the longest rule of any king in the 20th and 21st centuries— during which his dedication to public works earned great reverence from all levels of Thai society. King Bhumibol also served as a symbol of unity in a country which, between the time of his 1946 coronation and his death last year, has survived two dozen prime ministers and 10 military coups. The last time the nation held a funeral for a Thai king was in 1950, when King Bhumibol’s older brother, and then king, Ananda Mahidol (Rama VIII), was cremated. But the most recent royal funeral in Thailand took place in 2008 for Rama IX’s elder sister Princess Galyani Vadhana. That funeral followed a 100-day mourning period, while this one ends a full year, plus 13 days, of national mourning. Aside from paying tribute and expressing love for a great king, the five-day funeral ceremonies, which commence on the 25th of October (October 26th for the actual Royal Cremation), bring together some of the most complex Thai art,
“The evening of the King’s death, I was summoned to a meeting at the Bureau of the Royal Household in the Grand Palace,” Kokiat says. Present were representatives from the bureau, the FAD, the government, and the Privy Council of Thailand. “I was told I had until 10am the next day to come up with an overall design for the Royal Crematorium. The next morning, I brought in five different plans that I’d sketched out in pencil in my notebook.” Kokiat showed us his original notebook sketches. Thai Royal Crematoriums by tradition consist of open-air pavilions clustered to form a mandala-like constellation that represents the peaks of architecture, and ritual seen in Mount Meru, the mythical abode Thailand since the Ayutthaya era. of the gods in Hindu-Buddhist The epicentre for the event is cosmology. The Thai term for Royal Sanam Luang, a large field to the Crematoriums, Phra Merumat, north of the Grand Palace and Wat refers to this central symbol. Phra Kaew in Bangkok, traditionally At the second meeting, Kokiat’s used for royal funerals. Thailand’s five sketches received tentative Fine Arts Department (FAD) began approval and so he and his drafting building an immense, ornate Royal team expanded each sketch into Crematorium at Sanam Luang early larger, more detailed blueprints. this year, but the actual designs The 50-year-old architect, a Pho commenced the very day King Chang graduate who has worked Bhumibol passed away. Bangkok for the FAD for 26 years, showed 101 had a chance to sit down with us all five plans up close. For three Kokiat Thongphud (above), chief architect for the Royal Crematorium, of them, the pavilion “peaks” numbered nine—in reference to for a two-hour, one-on-one King Bhumibol’s status as the ninth interview during which the FAD officer described the design process king of the Chakri dynasty—while one plan featured five peaks, and for the 500-million-baht edifice.
Detailed architectural rendering of the Royal Cremation site which, by tradition, represents the peaks of Mount Meru
another only one. On the 15th of October, just two days after the King’s passing, one of the ninepeaks plan was approved and Kokiat’s team set about creating a full set of architectural plans for the ambitious project. “The only guidance the bureau gave us at this point was that we should make this meru as unique as possible, and that we shouldn’t compare the specs to the meru of any previous king,” he says. “Don’t make it the biggest. Make it the most beautiful,” Kokiat was told. Kokiat and his team of around 70 architects, engineers, and draftspersons unveiled the final designs for the cremation complex on October 28th. Construction went into full swing in February 2017, contracting three separate building companies involved in different phases of the project, with as many as 10,000 workers on site during the year. The magnificent central pavilion at the Rama IX meru rises 50.49
metres high, with a seven-tier roof that borrows features of classic Thai stupa architecture, including a bell-shaped section topped by an elaborate spire. By comparison, photos of the crematorium for Rama IV (1851-1868) show the principal pavilion rising 80 metres, about the height of the famous riverside Wat Arun. The roof tiers, however, number only five, and there are five pavilions altogether. Together, the nine pavilions and associated platforms and causeways for the Rama IX meru cover 3,600 sq.m, stacked along three ascending levels (four if you count the groundlevel causeway). On the first raised level, the haw pleuang—oddly mistranslated as “Dismantling Hall” on English-language plans—stand four pavilions reserved for articles and implements used during the various rituals. Next up, receding in size, is the chaang, a platform with four pavilions where seated monks will chant Pali verses from the Abhidhamma—the metaphysical third volume of Theravada
Buddhism’s tripartite scriptures— during the Royal Cremation. The uppermost, and final level, receding again in size, is the busabok, devoted to the ninth, principal pavilion where the Royal Urn containing the King’s body will be placed for cremation. Surrounding the urn platform are chak bang phloeng, four elaborate firescreen panels painted with Hindu deities, angels, flowers, and animals associated with Buddhism. The platforms and cornices of the Phra Meruthat are adorned with around 500 sculptures fashioned by FAD artisans over the last year, starting with clay models carved by hand at the Office of Traditional Arts in Nakhon Pathom and other locations. These were later brought to the crematorium project headquarters at the National Theater and National Museum in Bangkok where fibreglass statues were carefully cast using the clay cores, and then painted. According to the project’s head sculptor Nopparat Bunmee,
“We tried to make our sculptures look as if they are alive. Their postures and faces must evoke the feeling they’re human, not statues.” Principal figures include 2.75-metre-tall images of Indra, Shiva, Brahma, and Narayana (Vishnu) at the corners of the upper level. In proportion and detail, the sculptures display a naturalistic style that the late King, himself an accomplished artist, preferred. Artists working on the Narayana statue intentionally included facial features like those of the late king, reinforcing the belief among many Thais that Bhumibol was an earthly incarnation of Narayana. Other statues include a two-metre tall standing Garuda, Narayana’s vehicle and guardian of the Thai state, rabbits (representing the birth year of the late King in the Chinese zodiac), and a variety of mythical animals from Mount Meru’s Himmaphan forest. A realistic, 70 cm-tall statue of Thongdaeng, the King’s favourite pet dog and a favourite metaphor in the late king’s annual public speeches, stands alongside the bier at the top level. It took Chin Prasong, former chief of the FAD’s Sculpture Division, two months to carve. Meanwhile, the surrounding causeway incorporates four ponds, a rice field, a reservoir, and a water mill to pay homage to the late King’s famed rural development projects. Standing separate from the crematorium platforms is the 200-metre-long, 2,500-seat Royal Merit-Making Pavilion, where the King’s son and successor, King Maha Vajiralongkorn, or Rama X, will preside over official guests of the funeral, including members of the royal family, heads of state, cabinet ministers, senior officials, foreign ambassadors, and other honoured attendees. Colourful murals lining three walls of the pavilion depict 46 key scenes from the late monarch’s life—particularly civil works—painted by more than 300 volunteer artists. It’s also worth noting that the Royal Merit-Making Hall is a glassed-in, air-conditioned building (the only structure in the cremation grounds that’s not open-air). Together the buildings and area surrounding the Royal Crematorium will accommodate 7,400 people. All construction was complete by the end of September, save for sheer gold curtains to surround the bier, floral arrangements, and other decorative elements which will be freshly installed the early morning of the funeral. The five-day schedule of ceremonies and processions starts on October 25th with a royal meritmaking ceremony at the Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall at the Grand Palace. The Royal Cremation takes place at Sanam Luang the second day, October 26th. The next day, October 27th, the royal remains will be divided among six separate urns. One urn will end up permanently at the Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall and the five others will be presented to King Maha Vajiralongkorn and other royal family members. On the fourth day, another royal merit-making ceremony takes place at the Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall to bless the urn transferred there temporarily. On the fifth day, food will be offered to monks at the Dusit
Maha Prasat Throne Hall before the Royal Urn is transferred to its final resting place at Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall. Six grand processions are planned for the ceremonies. The first three, on the 26th of October, bring the Royal Urn on the Golden Palanquin from the Grand Palace to the Royal Funeral chariot, which will be parked in front of Wat Pho. Made of carved wood that is lacquered and gilded, and decorated with glass mosaic, the chariot was built in 1795 for the cremation of Rama I’s father, and recently restored for the funeral. Weighing 13 tons and measuring 18 metres long, the vehicle must be pulled by 216 bearers. The second procession follows the chariot from Wat Pho to Sanam Luang, where a third procession makes three circuits around the crematorium, ending with the transfer of the Royal Urn to the uppermost pavilion. After cremation, the fourth procession takes the principal urn to the Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall, and the fifth from there to the Chakri Maha Prasat Throne Hall. In the sixth and final procession, the 4th Cavalry Regiment King’s Guard parades on horseback from Phra Si Ratana Chedi, the 19th-century stupa enshrining Buddha relics at Wat Phra Kaew, to Wat Ratchabophit and then to Wat Bowonniwet, as a mini-pilgrimage in homage to the late King. According to Kokiat, the Royal Crematorium will be left in place for at least a month after the Royal Cremation to allow the public the chance to admire the infrastructure of the grandest royal funeral in the world in decades.
The southern entrance of the Royal Crematorium faces Wat Phra Kaew
View of the nine-pavilion Royal Crematorium from the Royal Merit-Making Pavilion
Small rice field installed near the crematorium represents the late king's valued support for agricultural development
An artisan puts the finishing touches on a 2.75m statue of Narayana
Artisan applies gold paint to a Hindu-Buddhist deity in one of the pavilions
Detailed murals, chronicling the late King's public works, adorn the Royal Merit-Making Pavilion
A horse is one of many statues representing animals living in the mythical Himmaphan forest
Photo by Lekha Shankar Photo by Lekha Shankar
Coloured 'Guardian' statue, and others, await the artisan's final touches
Image of Hindu God Brahma, one of four that will be placed at the Royal Cremation site
Rama IX Royal Funeral Schedule OCTOBER 25 Final night vigil before the Royal Urn and Coffin at the Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall, Grand Palace OCTOBER 26 11am: Meal offering to monks 1pm-4:30pm: Funeral procession from the Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall to the Royal Crematorium at Sanam Luang 6pm: Sunset memorial service 7pm: Ceremonial first lighting of the funeral pyre and final salute by the 3rd Battalion, 1st Infantry Regiment, King’s Guard and the 1st Artillery Battalion, King’s Guard on behalf of the Royal Thai Armed Forces (three-volley salute and 21-gun salute) 10pm: Royal Cremation proper, followed by outdoor performances of Thai classical dance, music, and puppetry OCTOBER 27 7am: Removal of the royal ashes and relics from the crematorium followed by a breakfast service 10am: Royal procession for transfer of the royal ashes and relics to the Dusit Maha Prasat Throne Hall of the Grand Palace Photos by Lekha Shankar
OCTOBER 28 11:30am: Final service held before the royal relics 1pm:Transfer of the royal relics to the Chakkri Maha Prasat Throne Hall Above: The Royal Urn, made of sandalwood; Right: The Royal Coffin, also made of sandalwood. All Thai provinces are building Royal Crematorium replicas (Bangkok will have 9 replicas), so people can pay respect at these location during the funeral ceremony. After the cremation, the crematorium in Sanam Luang will be open to the public from November 1st to the 30th. For more information regarding the Royal Cremation site, visit: www.kingrama9.net
Plankton Gnocchi, just one of the tantalizing dishes on Il Fumo’s Autumn tasting menu
| FOOD & DRINK
AROY appetizing autumn menus
All through October—and beyond—diners at IL FUMO (1098 Rama IV Rd), can sample multi-course AUTUMN TASTING MENUS that marry the best of Portuguese and Italian cuisine. Chef-partner Luca Appino and Head Chef Nelson Amorim creatively explore the flavours of the Mediterranean and Atlantic seas, sommelier Thanakorn Mankit carefully curates the wine pairings, and the team from Vesper unveils new digestif nightcap cocktails. The 7-course ‘Discovery Menu’ is B2,500++ per person (add B1,700++ per person for wine pairing), while the 9-course ‘Degustation Menu’ is 2,800++ per person (add 2,000++ per person for wine pairing). For reservations call 02 286 8833. www.ilfumo.co
where land and sea meet A new seafood-centric restaurant entered the Bangkok dining scene as PESCA MAR & TERRA BISTRO finally opened its doors last month. Acclaimed chef JERIKO VAN DER WOLF (of Cocotte Farm Roast & Winery fame) is the main man behind the new venture, so needless to say expectations are high. Like Cocotte the market-to-table concept here offers diners a great selection of amazingly fresh products— from both land and sea—carefully selected with the help of passionate fishermen, farmers, butchers, and cheese artisans. Located on Ekkamai Soi 12, it’s open from 11am to 3pm for lunch, and 6pm to midnight for dinner.
from cocktail bar to organic market Around the end of last year fans of VIVA 21, that funky little drink spot at the top end of Thong Lor, were sad when the bar finally shut its doors. But the folks behind that venue are back with VIVA MARKET THONGLOR. After acquiring the two buildings next to the original spot, the team found themselves with a total of 1,000 sq.m to fill—too much for just one restaurant—so the idea of a multi-function property developed. The 1st and 2nd floors act as a grocery store, with organic, locally sourced, and chemical free produce (where food can be cooked on the spot to dine in or take away). The 3rd floor, meanwhile, is dedicated to the butcher shop—take away or grilled on the spot—and a bakery that uses organic flours. Finally, the 4th and 5th floors are reserved for a formal eatery/restaurant to be opened soon. And although they eventually plan to be open 24 hours a day, they’re currently operating from 10am to 11pm.
new future for foodies Back in late 2014 local gal-about-town and media maven SAMANTHA PROYRUNGTONG launched an innocent little Facebook group entitled BANGKOK FOODIES—which quickly became an incredibly active and well-trusted online forum for Bangkok residents with a passion for food. In fact, the runaway success of the group caused it to outgrow its social media platform limitations, which is why Samantha and crew have just launched their own media/news/publishing website which (not surprisingly) is named bangkokfoodies.com. With a commitment to “keeping it real”, but also not to “take things too seriously” the new website will provide local and international foodies with entertaining restaurant reviews, food blogs/vlogs, chef interviews, places to stay, foodie events, and more—all designed to take the guess work out of dining. And if you’re interested in joining their team, or submitting blogs or even digital marketing campaigns, email: contact@bangkokfoodies.com.
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FOOD & DRINK | meal deals
Riverside Sunday Brunch Above the Clouds at Feast
Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers | 2 Charoen Krung Rd. Tel: 02 266 9214 | www.royalorchidsheraton.com Make it a perfect Sunday with mouthwatering offers at Feast, complete with an extensive live cooking station from award-winning Chef Robert Czeschka, plus signature BBQ dishes from the hotel’s Riverside Grill and authentic Thai fine cuisine from Thara Thong. Top it off with delectable desserts for the perfect weekend indulgence. This Sunday Brunch Buffet is just B2,000 net per person (until October 31st). Book now to receive the ‘Come 4 Pay 3’ special offer. Children 9 years old and younger dine free, while children 10-12 years old dine at half-price.
Mid-Autumn Festival at Chocolab, SO Sofitel Bangkok
SO Sofitel Bangkok | 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 | www.sofitel.com Show your friends and family that you love them to the moon and back during Mid-Autumn Festival this year, with the selection of eight moon-licious pastries from Chocolab, priced at B780 net per box of four. Try the ‘Choco Mooncakes’, in which the four pieces range from lemon cherry to five nuts, macadamia brownie, and mango passion. Or, opt for the ‘Traditional Mooncakes’ which are sesame, chesnut, custard, and green tea with red bean flavoured. These special selections of mooncakes are available at Chocolab until the 8th of October only.
Unique Mooncake Collection Available in Five Flavours
W Bangkok Hotel | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 | www.wbangkok.com From now until October 4th enjoy W Bangkok’s mooncake collection, expertly designed by Chef Steven Kim and his team and promising the best in both quality ingredients and freshness. Flavours include raspberry, peanut butter, Japanese cheesecake, banana chocolate, and durian. And this year the specially designed mooncake box pays tribute to the Year of the Rooster. Purchase four pieces of mooncake or more, and get a W Bangkok custom designed scarf with your purchase. Each individual mooncake is priced at B188, and the box is priced at B788 (four pieces).
Autumn Orange Afternoon Tea at Up & Above
The Okura Prestige Bangkok | 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com The pastry chefs are serving up sweet and savoury delights at the Autumn Orange Afternoon Tea at Up & Above. From now until November 30th enjoy gourmet savoury bites that go perfectly with a glass of chilled Champagne or Prosecco. Sweet temptations are on offer too, best enjoyed with a cup of Illy coffee or tea from Mariage Frères. A selection of Autumn-inspired cocktails is also available. Priced at: B1,190++ inclusive of premium coffee or tea for 2 persons; B1,690++ with Sake, or two glasses of Prosecco; or B2,750++ with two glasses of Champagne.
Perfect Porcini at La Tavola & Wine Bar
Renaissance Bangkok Hotel | 518/8 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 125 5000 | www.renaissancebangkok.com Fans of the seasonal delicacy “Italian Porcini” will be thrilled with La Tavola & Wine Bar’s specially-curated menu by Executive Chef Matthias Mittnacht. These wonderfully aromatic fresh mushrooms lend a burst of intensely rich, earthy flavour to a variety of savoury dishes—from Bruschetta Smoked Mozzarella and Porcini, to Porcini Ravioli in Garlic Broth, to classic Italian dishes such as Pappardelle with Porcini and Arugula. This special à la carte menu is available at lunch and dinner every Tuesday to Sunday, from now till October 31st, with prices starting from B350++ per dish.
A la Minute à la Carte Buffet at Latest Recipe
Le Meridien Bangkok | 40/5 Surawong Rd. Tel: 02 232 8888 | www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com It’s an epicurean avalanche of à la carte buffet selections prepared à la minute at Latest Recipe throughout October. Executive Chef Marco Cammarata and his team of chefs invite diners to explore a multi-dimensional buffet concept, featuring daily rotations selected from the new health-conscious menu. Some dishes are prepared at live stations, others inside the kitchen, and some are even prepared tableside before your very eyes. Lunch is priced at B1,100++, dinner at B1,300++, the ‘Weekend Seafood Dinner Buffet’ at B1,600++, and the ‘Healthy Sunday Brunch’ at B1,800++.
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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK
El Tapeo
Authentic Spanish tastes at very affordable prices
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apas have proven a universally popular concept, in part because most cultures have a version of small dishes people can share. Bangkok has a slim history with Spanish restaurants, compared with other European cuisines, so El Tapeo is telling Thai customers to think of it as an izakaya, a place for either a drink and quick bite after work, or a full meal with friends. Spanish co-owner Jorge Arnanz envisioned this variety of uses in the design, with a bright bar upon entering, complete with an Estrella Galicia female statue in front of the tap. The mezzanine is meant to evoke Andalusia with the design of its floor tiles and plates on the wall. The 3rd floor is more spread out, with pictures of Madrid plazas displayed, perhaps conjuring up Puerta del Sol. The restaurant uses mostly local ingredients, except when the chef—a native of Spain—knows there is not a sufficient Thai substitute for the flavour, such as with Padrón Green Peppers (B150), a specialty from bangkok101.com
Galicia. Simply cooked with oil and salt, every 10 or so will have a random spicy one, giving someone in your party a special surprise. The Gazpacho (B130) was so creamy and heavy it could have doubled as a salad dressing. The thick, delicious mixture did not skimp on the garlic. The Grilled Squid with Garlic Mayonnaise Aioli (B150) was fresh, avoiding the rubbery texture that sometimes plagues Bangkok restaurants. Huevos Rotos (B250), or “broken eggs”, requires the fried eggs and Iberico ham strips to be mixed up with the very thin fried potatoes they lay on top of. The dish is then topped with fish extruded into the shape of baby eels, and the potatoes are so thin and salty it is reminiscent of eating mashed up crisps. Gambas Al Ajillo (B150), or garlic prawns served in chili oil, is the classic tapas dish. Just being able to dip the bread into that luscious chili oil was a treat. Open-faced sandwiches, or tostas, are another staple of tapas cuisine, and the Iberico Ham version
(B250), with tomato and extra virgin olive oil, offers a good mix of saltiness and acidity. But the revelation of the meal was the Grilled Brie Cheese Topped with Carmelized Sweet Onion (B150) that had been marinated and cooked in white wine. The onion was so sweet one would swear it was topped with sugar. The Chocolate Lava Cake (B180), sprinkled with Spanish almond nougat and served with vanilla ice cream, was the perfect mix of bitter and sweet—a fitting end to the meal. Be sure to ask for a complimentary digestif, which is currently a proprietary blend of rum cream. A litre of Sangria (B550), which is red wine, lemonade, spirits and fresh fruit, went well with all of the dishes. by Robin Banks
El Tapeo
159/10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 052 0656 Open: Sun, Tue-Thu, 11:30am-11pm, Fri-Sat, 11:30am-1am www.eltapeobkk.com OCTOBER 2017 | 91
FOOD & DRINK | review
Sala Rim Naam
Authentic Thai flavours shine through at this luxurious lunchtime buffet
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f you hop on the private riverboat from The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok hotel and cross the Chao Phraya River, you will find one of the best Thai buffets in town. At Sala Rim Naam Master Thai Chef Prasent Sussadeewong offers exquisite and authentic cuisine served in a rich colonial pavilion built in the traditional Northern Thai style. And there’s enough seating to comfortably sit 170 guests in this spacious riverside setting. On arrival I try the signature rum and martini based Oriental Hotel Cocktail (B390), with twisted bamboo, sunken cherry, and strong flavours that go on to complement the food—which begins with dainty, delicious ‘snacks’ such as Thod Mun Goong, shrimp cakes with plum sauce, and Grathong Thong Je, which sees herbed vegetables served in crispy pastry shells. The ‘dips’, meanwhile, are served on an elaborate backdrop of sculptured flowers, with pretty petals made from fresh produce. Steamed, frittered, and fried vegetables are served on a banana leaf, in big bamboo platters with polished silver serving spoons. Favourites included 92 | OCTOBER 2017
the Naam Prig Makham, with chili, tamarind, shrimp, and chicken, and the heavenly Lon Poo Talay, soya bean and sea crab in a coconut milk dip. The ‘salads’ are flavoursome and light, with the most memorable being the Phlaa Pla Tod, a spicy deep-fried fish with a Thai herb salad, and the Yaam Som-O, a herbed pomelo salad with chicken threads and prawns. Next on the list are ‘soups’, including Tom Yaam Goong, a spicy blue river prawn soup with lemongrass and straw mushrooms, and Tom Klong Pla Grob, a spicy herbed soup with crispy dried fish, with a sublime and subtle flavour. There are around sixteen ‘curry and main dishes’ to choose from, creating difficult decisions of what not to eat. But do try the Gaeng Kua Sabparos Gub Goong, a simply delicious prawn curry with pineapple, as well as the Goong Phad Prig Gluea, stir-fried prawns with chili and salt. The ‘action’ dishes on offer refer to the luxury food carts at the serving stations, giving a nod to Bangkok’s premier street food destination status. Favourite dishes include Khanom Krog a Siamese rice pudding topped with
sesame or spring onion, and Glauy Thod Mun Thod Phuag Thod, perfectly portioned Siamese banana, sweet potato, and taro fritters. There’s also an array of over twenty desserts, but this is not quantity over quality—quite the contrary. Make a point to try the Kha Nom Thai, assorted Thai sweets, the Kha Nom Fug Tong, steamed pumpkin with coconut milk, and the Sung Khaya Fug Tong pumpkin custard. And to complete the meal, complimentary tea and coffee is included. This first-class lunch buffet is available from Monday to Friday (B950), and Saturday to Sunday (B1,150), but if you prefer an à la carte dinner there’s fine dining and entertainment every evening with set ‘Classic’ (B1,800) and ‘Royal’ (B2,450) menus. by Sara Lois Wilson
Sala Rim Naam
The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave. Buffet hours: Thu-Tue, noon-2:30pm Tel: 02 659 9000 www.mandarinoriental.com bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
Eats Payao
Hole-in-the-wall bistro serves up authentic Northern fare
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andwiched as it is between Sois 3 and 5 on Nang Linchi Road, you have to be careful not to miss Eats Payao restaurant, and boy will you be sorry if you do. From the moment you step into this small sophisticated bistro and bar and receive the warm welcome from hosts Khae and Gavin, you sense that all the five-star reviews you’ve read online, and word-of-mouth recommendations you’ve heard, are about to be confirmed. Khun Khae’s fashion design roots are immediately evident in the décor as her own art—including a large print showcasing Northern hilltribe fabrics— catches your eye before drawing you on to several more eye-catching paintings, showcasing more locally based talent. The art complements the bangkok101.com
dark, pastel-pink walls and bright red Bo Sang umbrellas hanging from the ceiling, while the cool music (Django Reinhardt, for instance) playing in the background completes the warm, welcoming mood. The food that followed was even warmer and more welcome, as we roamed all over the menu and were never disappointed. We began by sampling two of the Khao Soi dishes—including Khae’s own creation, a dry Khao Soi. The delicious Khao Soi Beef (B120) comes with thinly sliced discs of diaphanous meat (a clever presentation), while the succulent Khao Soi Crab Meat (B280) variant was surprisingly delicate. All the meats, in fact, were incredibly tender, especially the Gaeng Hang Lay (B150), a spicy pork belly curry with peanuts which
has a superbly tangy barbecue flavour that didn’t overwhelm but did demand you eat more. The homemade Payao Sausage (B90) are spicier than your average Northern sausage, and like many of the dishes they’re prepared from an old family recipe, in this case using extra herbs and spices and successfully sacrificing sweetness for spiciness. Next up, the Larb Moo Kua (B150) was satisfyingly piquant and was taken to another level of scrumptious by its deep-fried liver. It also comes with fried intestines and pork rinds, as is the traditional style, which is yet another example of the authentic touches that lift the bistro’s offerings above the norm. Meanwhile, their Nam Prik Noom/Ong (B100), flavoured with grilled eggplant, garlic, and onion, had a delightfully creamy taste and texture, providing a perfect accompaniment to the larb. For beverages the restaurant offers plenty of beer, wine, and other drink options, however a glass of their organic South African Pop Song sparkling wine (B300) makes for a pleasant palate cleanser. The secrets to Eats Payao’s burgeoning success are many, but mainly hinge on the family recipes Khae inherited from her late grandmother, which are often enhanced by the freshness of the produce used (much of which is sourced from the family farm in Phayao province). When added with the authenticity, personal touches, the simple rustic presentation, and a pair of owner/hosts doing what they love while clearly loving what they do… well, you know the old cliché—it’s a recipe for success. by Gary Anthony Rutland
Eats Payao
95/3 Nang Linchi Rd. Open: Tue-Sun, 11:30am-11pm Tel: 094 303 5833 www.facebook.com/eatspayao OCTOBER 2017 | 93
FOOD & DRINK | review
Ruen Urai
Isaan Interpretations menu gives upcountry classics a gourmet makeover that owner Dr. Tom Vitayakul gives us a peek at his newly launched ‘Isaan Interpretations’ menu, starting with two fish dishes. The Northeastern Salad of Grilled and Flaked Salmon (B350) is basically laab moo, but made using salmon instead of pork—a fantastic substitution—while the Steamed Filets of Sea Bass (B380) is served with an aromatic mixture of herbs. Beef dishes include the Spicy and Sour Beef Soup (B380), a clear broth with tender beef chunks and toasted pounded rice, and the generously portioned Grilled Beef Striploin (B450) served with Isaan spicy sauce. Sided with and order of special black sticky rice (B50) it’s a very satisfying main course. However, the highlights of this Isaan culinary hit list are two dishes vastly different in nature, but somewhat similar in taste. First is the Crispy Fried Frog’s Legs (B380) with garlic and pepper. Unlike French-style frog’s legs, these meaty morsels are about the size of chicken wings and, dare I say it, the meat on the bone really does taste like chicken (albeit a tiny bit oilier, more akin to dark meat). Second is the Braised Fillets of Chicken with Lemongrass and Herbs (B350), a deceptively simple sounding dish that was actually note perfect in flavour balance—I’d have gladly ordered oused in a century-old which Ruen Urai has many—is the another portion. ornate, two-story teak new bar and lounge area, located in As for menu items not on the house, Ruen Urai restaurant a sepaate building (which is currently limited-time Isaan Interpretations stands majestically amidst its lush being converted into a small boutique menu, the irresitable Laab Moo Tod garden surroundings. The main room hotel and residence) just beside (B380), deep-fried dollops of spicy is tastefully lit and decorated with a the restaurant. The lounge’s overall minced pork salad, and the wonderful stylish, contemporary flair, overlooking style leans towards classic European Som Tam Yod Ma Prao On (B300)—a the swimming pool of the neighbouring drawing room elegance, but there som tam variation using strips of young Rose Hotel on one side, and the green are several Thai flourishes as well, coconut instead of papaya, and served space behind the main building on including beautiful art pieces on the the other—an area which, up until bookshelves. Another thing of beauty is with juicy jumbo grilled shrimp—are recently, was somewhat underused. the signature cocktail list, which offers both excellent choices. by Bruce Scott But, as of early this year a cozy new eight intriguing creations (B290 each). glassed-in solarium room, located After a refreshing cocktail it’s beside the small outdoor seating area time for dinner, and when it comes to Ruen Urai to the rear of the restaurant, offers truly enjoying Thai food a large group, GF, The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd. spaces for four more tables. ordering lots of different dishes, is Tel: 02 266 8268 However, the real point of best. Our group of 12 completely fills Open daily: noon-11pm interest for returning regulars—of the solarium extension, and it’s here www.ruen-urai.com
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review | FOOD & DRINK
Bistro M
Boozy buffet dinner that won’t break the bank
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onveniently located on Sukhumvit Soi 24, just walking distance from Phrom Phong BTS station, Bistro M at the elegant Marriott Executive Apartments serves up an array of Thai and international fare, with lunch and dinner buffets on offer Monday to Friday. But come the first Friday of every month the ‘International Dinner Buffet’ is served with a selection of free flow wine, plus a welcome glass of Prosecco on arrival— all for a mere B1,300 per person. With floor-to-ceiling windows facing the bustling soi and an open kitchen, the venue combines the offerings and style of a restaurant with the laidback feel of a cozy café—an idyllic setting to sit back, relax, and sip on bottomless wine. The high ceilings, wood floors, warm lighting, and bright pops of colour on the walls also keep the atmosphere relaxed yet upbeat, while the friendly and knowledgeable staff complete the package. For starters, you’ll find: marinated feta, olives and anchovies; Manchego cheese and Serrano ham; bruschetta; an assortment of cheeses; and even tortilla chips with guacamole and salsa bangkok101.com
amongst the offerings at the tapas bar—alongside which is a variety of more than 10 salads. A new addition to the lineup is the seafood section with fresh prawns and mussels on ice. Moving on to mains, you’ll find an array of home-style cooked dishes such as meatballs in Spanish tomato sauce, Galician calamari, sautéed New Zealand mussels in white wine, garlic and chilli prawns, BBQ pork ribs, and chicken coq au vin. But the main attraction is the hot kitchen, where meaty delights such as baked salmon with dill cream sauce and roasted beef ribeye and roasted potatoes—a musttry—are on offer. The chefs are also on hand to make made-to-order pasta dishes with a variety of sauces, and serve up piping hot thin-based pizzas (vegetarian options are also available). The dessert table is filled with an assortment of Thai desserts, blueberry cheesecake, and crème brulée, along with a range of fruit and ice creams. Guests can also choose from a special à la carte menu (not included in the buffet price) featuring seared scallop with mango chutney and cheesy nachos for appetizers (B220
each), and Chu-chi snow fish or grilled lamb chops for mains (B680 each). Not forgetting about the allimportant wine, the list here offers four types of grape and is rotated every other month. On the night of our visit the selection included a South African Chardonnay and Shiraz, and a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon—simple but suitable for the dishes on offer. This popular event sees couples, friends, and families come together. Tables fill up quick, and after an hour of eating, most folks seem to hangout the rest of the night taking advantage of the unlimited glasses of wine. NOTE: The upcoming International Dinner Buffet evenings are scheduled for October 6th, November 4th, and December 1st. by Kelly Harvey
Bistro M
GF, Marriott Executive Apartments 90, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 302 5265 Buffet available: 6:30pm-10pm www.marriott.com OCTOBER 2017 | 95
FOOD & DRINK | review
Outlaw Creative Cuisine C
Daring fare served with artistic flair
haroen Krung Road, which slices through one of Bangkok’s most historic districts, is going through an urban revival of sorts. With art galleries, dive bars, and cafés popping up, this stretch is now becoming one of the hottest areas in the city. One of the places we discovered in a sub soi between Charoen Krung 43 and 45, is Outlaw Creative Cuisine. Lodged between rows of shophouses, this eatery stands out—with a brightly coloured mural on its façade, and warm interiors within. Once inside, Chef Romain Guiot welcomes you with a wave and an “ello”, in his thick French accent. The narrow layout of the restaurant focuses on an open kitchen at the entrance, followed by a few tables (and a second floor which is yet to be developed). The teakwoodheavy furniture is complimented by an exposed brick wall and rich gold murals. Chef Romain’s fine art and electromechanical engineering background comes through in the form of quirky light fittings, made using traditional Thai kitchen utensils, and artistic photos snapped by him (available for sale). Baladin Italian craft beers (B250) in hand, we sit down with the tattooed, gung-ho chef and run through the menu. The bases of his dishes are of course, French—given his culinary training at École Grégoire-Ferrandi in Paris—but his travels influence the overall taste and presentation of each dish. For instance, with the Burratina Cheese on Spicy Bruschetta (B390), topped with a balsamic glaze, we see a confluence of Spanish and Thai flavours. The artful plating with dried herbs and flowers makes this one a delicious work of art. Next up is the Argentinian Tenderloin Tartare (B695). The raw meat dish is well seasoned with duck egg, shallots, mustard seeds, and herbs, and served alongside garden salad, pickles, and forest mushrooms flambéed in aged Sang Som rum. “As
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with tartare, I try not to transform the dish too much and let the high quality ingredients speak for itself,” Romain adds, while molding the meat on the plate. For our main, Romain does his special Carbonara (B420). The spaghetti is tossed with mushrooms, crispy Thai kurobuta bits, and duck magret, then sprinkled with Swiss Emmenthal cheese. The dish is rich, yet non-greasy, and presents a heavenly juxtaposition of creamy and salty flavours. Of course, this was an all-round favourite. We paired this with a few glasses of smooth Reservado red (B150). Romain is currently working on extending the menu, so some of the dishes we tried tonight represented both the old and the upcoming menu,
which will see a few vegetarian dishes made using Thai produce, trufflebased items and a dessert list. We made up for a lack of dessert with The Chinese Man (B220), a herb-y and sweet cocktail made using Ya Dong, a Thai moonshine, which Romain sourced from an 80 year-old moonshiner in Chinatown. “Its outlaw, creative and something different”, he laughs. “Very much the essence of what this place represents.” by Reena Karim
Outlaw Creative Cuisine
415, Charoen Krung Soi 45 Tel: 090 021 2111 Open: Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, Sat, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10:30pm, Sun 5pm-10:30pm www.facebook.com/outlawcreativecuisine bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
Crepes & Co.
Indulging in a lazy lingering café style lunch, brunch, or breakfast
W
hen I arrive at the newest branch of Crepes & Co.— Bangkok’s most original and authentic French crêperie, since 1996—situated off Thong Lor Soi 53 and nestled in the 9:53 Community Mall at the corner of Soi 9, I am greeted by staff offering a smart and convenient valet parking service. And, as I enter the restaurant area, to my right I pass by Le Boeuf, C&C’s sister restaurant and popular quintessential French bistro. Crepes & Co’s retro-chic dining room has a clean, airy, 60s style, and those very high white ceilings you find in classic Parisian apartments. This is the perfect place to slouch on a sofa, and dine the afternoon away in great company—preferably over a lazy lingering lunch. You can also start the day with one of the multi-course set menu breakfasts, all served with tea or coffee, and juice. There’s also a tantalizing selection of drinks, and my XL Strawberry Mango Smoothie with Banana (B180) proved to be a nutritious tonic that didn’t compromise on taste. It’s passionately packed full of fresh fruit, and quite fun-looking too. bangkok101.com
Chef Jakkrit Pungsampan celebrates the historic staples of crêpes and salads with many of the restaurant’s signature dishes, and the influence of Moroccan, Greek, and Spanish cuisine is clearly evident. From the menu’s ‘Organic Egg Selection’ we brunch on the Quinoa Breakfast Scramble (B315), which sees organic scrambled eggs paired with quinoa and avocado bruschetta. This dish has a delicate nutty flavour, and a light fluffy texture that contrasts nicely with the crunchy, avocado-topped toast. The Grilled Chicken Salad with Tropical Sriracha Dressing (B285) is a mélange of healthy, delicious, clean food. With grilled chicken breast, mango, corn, and sunflower sprouts, this artfully prepared dish arrives layered in chunky glass jars. With a turn of the lid, I mix, pour, and present the contents, using the sizable coconut-shell salad spoons. Our wholesome Beetroot Hummus with Avocado (B285), from the menu’s appetizers section, is served up on a crispy baguette. This is well-presented on a wooden platter, and dressed with sprightly sprigs of scented rosemary.
The Moroccan (B385), comes under the heading ‘Savoury Crepes’ and is a cumin buckwheat crepe with beef merguez, couscous, and grilled eggplants. Siding the sausage and pancakes is a small tagine filled with smooth and spicy harissa paste, as well as olive oil dressing to drizzle on the side. Our bonne bouche and last course is from the ‘Sweet Crepes’ selection. The Orange Mascarpone (B285) is a coconut crêpe with whipped mascarpone and orange compote. It’s a creamy melt-inthe-mouth combination, with a lingering nectarous zest. The signature tea (B95) is a sweet brew with fresh Moroccan mint leaves, and a sprinkling of pine nuts. This creates a ceremonious end to the afternoon as the brew is poured from high above—in the traditional Moorish manner—to aerate the beverage. by Sara Lois Wilson
Crepes & Co.
9:53 Community Mall, Thong Lor Soi 9 Tel: 02 258 2672 Open: Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm, Sat-Sun, 8am-11pm www.crepesnco.com OCTOBER 2017 | 97
FOOD & DRINK | review
Coast Bistro
You definitely won’t get views like this in Bangkok
A
trek through “jungle” paths— lit by 101 torches once night falls—and over swinging faux-rope-bridges delivered us to the Coast Beach Club & Bistro, the beachfront restaurant at the Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort, Pattaya, that specializes in coastal cuisine and handcrafted cocktails. Once settled at our beachside table we gaze out over exotic-looking small islands and fluorescent-green-lit fishing boats that fill the horizon. Speckled clouds reflect the setting sun in an ecstatic metallic-hued light show of pink, orange, red—and redder—hues. Our meal could wait, as the exclusively blended Sauvignon Blanc (B150/glass) was disappearing as slowly and as pleasurably as the sun. Being Thursday it was Coast’s ‘Seafood BBQ Buffet’ (B1,299 per person/B1,999 with bottle of wine/ half-price for children under 12). As we set sail for the feast, our first port of call were the two salad bars between which a sushi drawer harboured a selection of California, salmon, and crab rolls, plus tuna sashimi, and more. Two soups, including a tasty Tom Yam Kung, lay anchored next to the second salad
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bar, and led to the six chafing dishes containing various rice and seafood combinations. Tacking beach-wards we cruised by sea-fresh lobster, crabs, mussels, and river and tiger prawns, all arrayed on an island of ice—and all bought and delivered daily. Sailing onwards, a pasta station appeared on our port bow so we briefly dropped anchor to survey four types of pasta and pizza, and the flotilla of ingredients and toppings to create your personalized pizza or pasta dish. Next, we coasted to the grilling station, which offers pre-cooked and cooked-to-order delights, including chorizo sausage, chicken, pork, beef, corn on the cob, white, more river and tiger prawns, lobster, butter fish (my favourite), and squid. Back in harbour our numerous plates—festooned with various delectable buffet items—were complemented by Coast’s Signature Mojitos (B270 each). We enjoyed a few refreshing examples, prepared to our personal taste (which for us meant lots of lime and mint). Eventually a post-supper cruise back to the buffet line led us to a previously hidden treasure; the walk-in sweets room! Packed from floor
to ceiling with a cargo of bite-sized decadent desserts, I eventually hooked a chocolate mousse and strawberry cheesecake while somehow managing to ignore the siren call of the pastries and fresh fruits. My partner reluctantly abstained. Along with the ocean of fabulous food, smiling, helpful staff cater to your every need and there’s entertainment aplenty too. Colourful Hawaiian and Polynesian themed dance shows were interspersed with audience participation limbo dances, and an ensemble of fire dancers provided a sparkling finale. However, take note… you may have the appetite of a super-tanker but only the capacity of a canoe. But like me I’m sure you’ll leave determined to sail once again in Coast’s exceptional culinary waters as soon as time and tide allow. by Gary Anthony Rutland
Coast Beach Club & Bistro Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort 277, Moo 5, Naklua, Pattaya Open daily: 11am-midnight Tel: 03 871 4981 www.centarahotelsresorts.com
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FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino
FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751
Breaking Bread with Riley Sanders
One of Bangkok’s youngest and boldest innovators talks about his long voyage from Texas to “contemporary Bangkok cuisine”
T
he whole point of travel is to be surprised. For the hottest new chef in Bangkok, with an unusual background as a wandering foodie, the local ingredients that surprise him most at the market are the ones that inspire his best dishes. Along the nightlife strip of Thong Lor, playground of affluent Thais and expats often looking for dining experiences that are the very luxurious antithesis of Thai, the recently-opened
10 0 | OCTOBER 2017
Canvas restaurant has become one very original, and tasty exception— thanks to a brash 29-year-old who hails not from Thonburi, but Texas. At first glance, Riley Sanders looks like he must be the junior sous-chef in his own, very orderly open kitchen— with his boyish looks topped by a shock of ginger-coloured hair. But as soon as he talks about his restaurant concept and menu, there’s intense determination in his steely eyes. He’s
been focused on becoming a chef ever since he watched Julia Child cooking classes on U.S. Public Television in his hometown of Austin. “For my parents, it was canned food or the crockpot,” he recounts. “But wherever we went on vacation, I wanted to choose the restaurants, not the water parks.” After trying to satisfy his parents’ ambitions by studying business at Baylor, he soon transferred to the bangkok101.com
breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK
Texas Culinary Academy, then took a grunt job at up to 60 hours a week at Chicago’s L20—so he could learn from Michelin-starred chef Laurent Gras “what it takes to cook at the highest level”. Vowing to “get away from what everyone else was doing”, he eschewed more classical French training in favour of Texas outlets showcasing Japanese and Southeast Asian influences. Next, he really sailed away from solid ground—literally—by seeking a position as a private cook on a yacht. Fortunately, his wealthy, prematurely retired employers became Riley’s biggest fans and supporters. “They were incredibly supportive, excited by my cooking and happy to be an audience for my experimentation,” he says. The work was more challenging than might be expected, as Riley points, “since ingredients were hard to come by. So I had to find new ways to cook lobster for four days or more.” From “St. Bart’s to the Great Lakes” he delineates, the yacht docked frequently enough to allow him plenty of time to explore flavours on shore. This increased when he arranged to sail six months each year and wander independently during the rest. “I bangkok101.com
wanted to know what makes great food great in Oaxaca, Lima or Paris,” he declares. Along the way, he learned to admire the handling of ingredients in Japan, the vibrancy of Mexico, the possibilities of forest foraging in Copenhagen. This sometime sailor came ashore with the World’s Top 50 Restaurants as his guide to landlubbing. Having first been beguiled by Thailand’s glut of exotic tastes in 2013, he now brings all his accrued ability as a finely-tuned food compass to everything he does at Canvas. “Who wants to work with the same old imports every day?” the chef asks rhetorically. And while he’s a proud supporter of the world-wide trend for farm-to-table freshness, he has yet to make permanent links with sustainable suppliers. But for now, he proudly bring forth from the fridge his own foraging finds of the day—in this case, some bitter cherry-like Thai-style olives. This has led to an astoundingly playful tasting menu, creating an edible canvas of compositions: Phuket’s kobia fish served raw, sweet crayfish, the stringy cha-om herb spread over grilled squid, sour oranges, pepper leaf, preserved
lemon, galangal, blood clams (similar to cockles), mangosteen turned into mousse, and a Thai-grown brassica (in the mustard greens family). He’s found a Thai-bred wagyu beef as well, and combines beef cheek with pungent kapi shrimp paste. The dishes may be described in English, the presentation Western, but the taste is supposed to exude Thai-ness. But it would be foolish to describe any specific menu with a restaurant so much in evolution and a chef who consciously refuses to be static. “Everything is changing so fast that I expect to bring out 2-7 new specials each week,” he adds. “And I prefer to base them on finds in the night markets, so I can have the whole next day to get my dishes right.” That may sound like a lot of pressure, but for a chef used to working in a ship’s galley many nautical miles from the nearest grocery, this is plain fun—and the best way to extend on dry land his voyages of discovery. As Chef Riley summarized his philosophy at the market, “If I don’t know what it is, then it must be special.” interview by John Krich www.canvasbangkok.com OCTOBER 2017 | 101
FOOD & DRINK | street eats
Vegetarian at Paradise Park
O
nce a year, Thailand holds a nationwide Tessakan Kin Jay, also known as the Vegetarian Festival. This meat-free event is celebrated quite seriously by many people, all of whom refrain from eating meat as a form of meritmaking—a Buddhist custom look upon as a “good deed”. Many restaurants will offer extraextensive vegetarian dishes during this time, and some will switch over completely and cook only meatless dishes for the duration of the festival. Those eateries selling vegetarian food fly yellow flags outside their restaurants, printed with the word jay, which is “vegetarian” in Thai language. You may wonder if this has a political connotation—as the colour yellow is closely associated with one of the country’s main political parties—but no, in this case it has only a gastronomic significance! Even though there are fewer street food stalls left in Bangkok after this year’s crackdown, that doesn’t stop me from my food explorations. Lately, I often take a little journey to explore the Srinakarin Road area, a neighborhood on the east side of Bangkok. There, on the ground floor of the Paradise Park Mall, I visit the food court—an indoor paradise for food lovers.
eat like
Nym
Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 102 | OCTOBER 2017
Once I step into the food court area, I am immediately surrounded by endless lanes filled with stands of goodies. It’s actually much more than a food court: vendors also sell homemade tiger balm, coconut cold press oil, and even socks. This food court is like a secret hideaway offering food from all over Thailand. There are noodles from Sukhothai, homemade steamed Chinese cakes, and my favorite stop—the vegetarian stand. Located near the end of the food court hall is Reungthip Mungsavirat, and they offer vegetarian food all year round. At first glance, however, I can’t tell that this food is vegetarian because it looks as exciting as other normal Thai curries and dishes. The food is full of colours and full of tastes, and there are many dishes to choose from. Reungthip Mungsavirat is run by Khun Reungthip and Mim, her daughter. Their little kitchen—with three stoves—is tucked behind the counter, and every dish will be cooked every morning right there. The mother will go to the fresh market around 3am and bring back all the ingredients, starting to cook as soon as she returns from the market. Each day she will cook about 10 dishes, and by the time Paradise Park’s
gates open, her food is ready. She prepares her food in giant pots and on trays. Every day will be a different menu, perhaps a gentle soup, a spicy coconut curry, a spicy salad, or a simple but tasty stir-fry vegetable dish. On my latest visit, she had prepared Kaeng Tepho (tamarind sour-base curry with morning glory), Kaeng Som (mixed vegetables in spicy and sour orange soup), Kaeng Khi Lek (cassia-leaf curry), Kaeng Laing (peppery herbal mixed vegetable soup), and Pad Hedhom (fried aromatic shitake mushroom). I chose the combination of textures and tastes from Kaeng Liang, which was powerful and aromatic with herbs and spices—including chili mixed with fried shitake mushroom, which gave it a chewy crunchy texture. I usually have my meal in the food court, but I buy more to take away. It’s not hard at all to find vegetarian dishes in Bangkok, but I do like the food here a lot because it has an intensity—in flavour and texture—more like you’d find in nonvegetarian curries and other dishes. Address: Reungthip Mungsavirat is on the ground floor of the Paradise Park Building, Srinakarin Road. Open from 9am till 7pm (or until they run out of food). bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINK | listings
CHINESE Bai Yun
The Chinese outlet with the best view in town and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm
Pagoda Chinese Restaurant
Pagoda Chinese Restaurant
This upscale venue serves traditional Cantonese cuisine in a spacious, contemporary setting. The menu focuses
on healthy dishes, while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.marriott.com
bourguignon—this high ceilinged eatery brings hearty and savoury French fare to Bangkok’s hungry hordes. 33/30, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 094 970 8599 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.cordonnierbkk.com
Shang Palace
The interior is elegant, but more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts. 3F, Shangri-La Hotel 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun, 11am-3pm www.shangri-la.com
FRENCH Brasserie Cordonnier
Serving exquisite Gallic favourites— from French onion soup to beef
Cafè Claire
Cafè Claire
This classic bistro-style eatery, wellknown for its afternoon tea, also offers an all-day menu of exquisite French comfort food cuisine. Oriental Residence, 110 Witthayu Rd. Open daily: 6am-10:30am, 11:30am-5:30pm, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 125 9000 www.oriental-residence.com/cafeclaire
ENOTECA Inimitable Italian the only real italian gourmet restaurant
Sukhumvit Soi 27, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok T. 02 258 4386 | F. 02259 9175
Crostini di Pate’ di Fegato di Piccione al Tartufo 10 4 | OCTOBER 2017
www.enotecabangkok.com bangkok101.com
listings | FOOD & DRINK
GREEK Avra Greek Restaurant
Rising from the mid-Sukhumvit culinary clutter like a Parthenon of Hellenic delights, this charming eatery offers an impressively expansive menu that includes all the perennial favourites prepared with thoughtful touches. GF, Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit 1 Soi Daengudom Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open: Tue-Fri, noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Sat-Sun, noon-11pm, Mon, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 258 2877 www.avrabkk.com
INTERNATIONAL Bunker
From the outside, this three-storey concrete building may look rustic and unfinished; inside however you’ll find contemporary American cuisine with a heavy New York influence being served up. The top-notch ingredients and excellence in execution are really what mark the dishes here.
bangkok101.com
118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com
contemporary European cuisine with a definite Asian flair. 9F, The Park Hyatt Bangkok Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 6am-10:30am, noon-2pm, 6pm-10pm www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com
Dine in the Dark
Cuisine de Garden
Cuisine de Garden
The Bangkok branch of this popular Chiang Mai eatery offers fine dining in a woodland decorated setting, with artfully prepared multi-course set menu dinners available. 12/6 Ekkamai Soi 2 Tel: 02 053 2059 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-11pm www.cuisinedegarden.com
Embassy Room
Ultra-modern and sophisticated, this restaurant features an all-day menu of
The title says it all. Guests experience an exercise in coping by entering a world of total darkness—which both accentuates the flavours of the delicious food, but also gives diners a taste of what it’s like for their visually-impaired servers, who deal with blindness as an everyday fact of life. GF, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 649-8358 Open: Mon-Sat, 6:30pm-9:30pm www.dineinthedarkbangkok.com
Karmakamet Diner
Although the café style selections are outstanding, the talented kitchen team is also adept at creating some serious fine dining dishes.
OCTOBER 2017 | 105
FOOD & DRINK | listings 30/1 Soi Methi Niwet Tel: 02 262 0700 Open daily: 10am-11:30pm www.karmakametdiner.com
Red Oven
Styled as a World Food Market, this 7th-floor all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. On weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet. 7F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com
a rotating list of daily dinner specials— from Mexican, to Japanese, to Chinese, and more—the offerings are constantly fresh and ever changing. 8F, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 1, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 686 4888 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.holidayinn.com/hisukhumvit
ITALIAN
Wild & Co. Park Society
Park Society
By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this high-altitude has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s mazing signature tasting menus. 29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 624 0000 www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com
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Arguably the most unique restaurant to open so far in 2017, takes the Thai taste for “forest food” and fuses it with the Western yen for grilled meats. In this case the meat happens to be wild or farmed game, for the most part. 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana, Phra Khanong Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.wildnco.com
Zeta Café
Lunch and dinner buffets, poolside or in the modern air-conditioned interior, are the order of the day here. And with
Biscotti
Biscotti
Serving up authentic Italian fare since the late ‘90s, this staple on the lunchtime roster for suits and their business partners has grown casual enough to
bangkok101.com
listings | FOOD & DRINK warrant a visit by anyone on any day of the week. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com
2F, Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 204 1731 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm, Mon, 5pm-11pm www.labottega.name/restaurant
La Dotta Pasta Bar
Bangkok’s ‘pastaphiles’ are converging in droves at this cozy, two level shophouse that specializes in delicious handmade pasta, but also uses organic imports as well. 161/6, Thong Lor Soi 9 Tel: 02 392 8688 Open daily: 11am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11pm www.ladotta.co Don Giovanni
Don Giovanni
This trattoria-inspired restaurant offers a menu full of home-style recipes. Along with neoclassical décor, the culinary approach lends this restaurant a decorous air befitting its operatic name. Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao, Bangkok, 1695 Phahonyothin Rd. Tel: 02 541 1234 Open: Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 8pm-10:30pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com
Enoteca Italiana Bangkok
Rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, this place is traditional Italian to the bone. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable a la carte and degustation menus to explore. As authentic as it is delicious. 39, Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 258 4386 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.enotecabangkok.com
La Bottega di Luca
This elegant Italian eatery, overseen by the ever charming Luca Appino, serves over 15 different kinds of pasta and an array of Italian specialties you won’t find on many other menus. bangkok101.com
High-end Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok, but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience than you’ll find at this elegant eatery. 33, Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 088 540 1001 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm www.tensui.co
STEAK & BURGER
Pizza Massilia
This gourmet pizzeria strives to combine aspects of French cuisine with traditional Italian tastes. Now with two locations. 15/1 Soi Ruam Ruedi, Tel: 02 651 5091 1/8, Sukhumvit Soi 49, Tel: 02 015 0297 www.pizzamassilia.com
JAPANESE Benihana
At the centre of every table is a hot grill, where a chef cooks for you, stimulating appetites with a deft and close-range slicing of onions, zucchini, shrimp, pork, steak—even the fried rice. Avani Atrium Bangkok, 1880 Petchaburi Rd. Tel: 02 718 2023 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.avanihotels.com
Gianni Ristorante
This iconic fine dining institution—over two decades and counting—offers modern Italian served up with tantalizing flair by the chef and patron Gianni Favro. 34/1 Soi Tonson Open daily noon-2pm, 6pm-10pm Tel: 02 252 1619 www.giannibkk.com
Ten-Sui
Katana Shabu & Japanese Dining
Katana Shabu & Japanese Dining
The deliciously inventive Japanese fusion cuisine here is equally matched by the inventiveness of the decor—where each private dining room has a different, eye-popping design scheme. 21/38, Sukhumvit Soi 23(Soi Prasanmit) Open daily 5:30pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 088 0706 www.ssjd-katana.com
Babette’s The Steakhouse
Babette’s The Steakhouse
An intimate 1920s Chicago style eatery at award-winning Hotel Muse Bangkok, serving up the best steak in Bangkok, set against a glittering city backdrop. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open: Lunch 12pm-3pm, Dinner 6pm-12am www.babettesbangkok.com
Meat & Bones
Nothing represents the very soul of stateside cooking than a smokehouse BBQ, and here the slow-smoked ribs are as traditional as it gets. The name says it all. The Commons, Thong Lor 17 Tel: 081 933 7143 Open: Mon-Thu, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm, Fri-Sun, 11:30am-10:30pm facebook.com/meatandbonesbangkok
THAI Blue Elephant
A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant (and cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm www.blueelephant.com OCTOBER 2017 | 107
FOOD & DRINK | listings
Rock Restaurant and Bar
Taking an inspirational cue from China’s “stone forest” in Shilin (Yunan), this spectacularly designed restaurant offers a blend of tradition Thai recipes enhanced by Western elements. 48/8-9, Soi Ruamrudee Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight Tel: 082 688 8200 facebook.com/rockrestaurantandbar
fresh fruits and rare herbs. 90, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Tel: 02 088 0968 Open: Wed-Mon, noon-11pm www.facebook.com/sritrat
Not Just Another Cup
Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin
With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, diners at this elegant, innovate eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an incredible culinary adventure down a road-less-travelled landscape. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-midnight Tel: 02 162 9000 www.kempinski.com/bangkok
Steve Café and Cuisine
Steve Café and Cuisine
Given the number of mass-produced seafood gardens and tourist coffee shops exploiting the romance of the Chao Phraya river, what’s remarkable about this restaurant is that they come pretty close to authentic homemade. 68 Sri Ayuthaya Rd. Tel: 02 281 0915, 02 280 2989 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.stevecafeandcuisine.com
CAFÉ Sri Trat
Sri Trat
This beautifully remodeled houseturnedrestaurant offers a taste of Eastern Thailand, a cuisine noted for its abundance of seafood, and the use of
amazing Mediterranean-inspired fare (3 locations). EmQuartier, Tel: 02 003 6013 Piman 49, Tel: 02 662 7900 Central Festival EastVille www.darkoffee.com
D’Ark
The stylish interior and furnishings embrace a coffee-coloured palette, offset by abstract artwork and tasteful lighting. The coffee machines are manned by world champion baristas and roasters, and the kitchen whips up some
This cozy cafe, suitable for early birds, serves a variety of brunch menus, while the drink menu covers everything from coffee to cold-pressed juices and infused water. 75/1, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 635 3464 Open daily: 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup
VEGETARIAN
Broccoli Revolution
Broccoli Revolution
This veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Rd (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 Facebook: Broccoli Revolution
Spicy Wagyu Tartare “LAAB”
LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant
www.eatmerestaurant.com 108 | OCTOBER 2017
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BANGKOKARTMAP
Top: Tiki and torches at Hopeland Bottom: Drinks that pack a punch at Savoy
| NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE clamour in the the courtyard
There are two (somewhat) new and novel bars shaking things up in Thong Lor’s 72 COURTYARD complex. The one getting the most hype is HOPELAND, which describes itself as an arcade bar with Tiki drinks and Korean dishes—a power trio if there ever was one! Here the 80s-era arcade machines contain more than 600 games, including Street Fighters, King of Fighters, Tekken, and Metal Slug, but the colourful Polynesian-style Tiki drinks are just as playful. By contrast, SAVOY is a punch bar and karaoke singing room with more than 12 signature punches, all served in classic punch bowls with serving ladles. Head bartender NAWIN ‘WIN’ PIMOLRAT takes tipplers on a journey with thematic punches named Space, Sea, Wild, Mountain, and Oasis, and the bowls are sized for groups of four, eight, or twelve persons (single servings available upon request).
jazz is the new black The opening last month of BLACK – THE JAZZ SPOT, breathes new life into a primo Thong Lor spot recently vacated following the closure of Bronx Liquid Parlour. As a jazz club, Black last appeared on the Bangkok scene about five years ago—on Sukhumvit Soi 33—but at this new venue New York native IDRIS DAWUD (trumpeter-singer-owner) promises an “uncompromising alternative to play-it-safe hotel lounge jazz”. His passion and experience have driven him to want to challenge, expose, and educate the nascent jazz audiences here in town. Scheduled of performances include solo piano nightly from 7:30pm, with “serious quartets” on stage at 10:30pm Fridays and Saturdays, and 8:30pm on Sundays. www.blackjazzspot.com
from rum to reisling Tropical rum cocktails do seem to be the flavour of the moment, and one newcomer to this party bandwagon is TROPIC CITY, a small but serviceable Tiki bar on Charoen Krung Road (Soi 28) that just opened its doors last month. During the soft opening period the bar will be open Wednesday through Saturday from 6pm till 1am. Meanwhile, INVITE WINE & COCKTAIL BAR is attempting to add a touch of class to Sukhumvit Soi 8, and at their grand opening last month (following their soft opening in August) they debuted the new Mediterranean menu put together by Executive Chef SEMET MEHMET, as well as their selection of cocktails, and extensive wine and whiskey offerings.
sathorn eleven art bar Even though it’s already one of the city’s coolest art galleries, the SATHORN 11 ART SPACE just got that much cooler with the addition of a brand new full time bar, open Wednesday to Sunday each week (from 6pm till late). Located at the rear of the gallery, this stylish cocktail counter offers a half dozen bar stools for those taking a break from viewing the expertly curated rotating art shows on display. The drink menu has been put together by SHANIK HWANG, from Cinema Winehouse—so you know it’s going to be good—with an emphasis on whiskey-based cocktails, classic martinis, and a hand-picked selection of beer and wine. And, as every pizza lover in the city knows, this art space is also home to GALLERY PIZZA, so you can get delicious pizzas alongside your drinks. www.facebook.com/sathorn11artspace
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NIGHTLIFE | review
FooJohn Building Equal parts restaurant, bar, and gathering grounds
T
he Chinatown hotspot known as the FooJohn Building has developed slowly. You might recall Fou de Joie coming first. That’s the ground-floor restaurant—a futuristic amalgamation of a French bistro and filmmaker Wong Kar-Wai’s Hong Kong. Then a bar was opened on the second floor. It didn’t have a name yet, but it did have a concept: Savoyinspired cocktails and jazz. A bar on the floor above it came next. Finally, after roughly nine months in business, a smokehouse called SpareParts launched on the roof. If you’re counting at home, that totals four distinct venues within one building. They don’t all seem to mesh, either. (A classic French-Hong Kong smokehouse?) To the credit of the partners who put FooJohn together, the concept works much better than it sounds. Whether you’re stopping by for the music, or lingering a little longer over a plate of ribs, FooJohn has quickly joined the ranks of go-to destinations for night owls and creative types alike.
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Much of the action revolves around the jazz bar. From the choice to hang heavy velour curtains to the subtle Art Deco touches left in place when the building was being renovated from its past life as a spare parts shop, it’s clear that a lot of attention went into the details. The lounge-like space makes for an ideal listening, not to mention drinking, experience. You can still order Savoy classics, from the Sazerac (B340) to the Silver Fizz (B280), but it’s worthwhile to try one of the modern interpretations that make up the Signatures list, like the Lovable Corn (B260). Evan Williams Bourbon, Cointreau, and orgeat (almond syrup) blend with herbal Bénédictine and torched rosemary, resulting in a drink that’s smooth on the palate but remarkably complex, carrying hints of caramel and corn from the bourbon. A staff favourite, the Leaf Dragon (B280) plays off the timeless flavours of tom yum. White rum serves as the base for Kaffir lime, galangal, and chili, as well as ginger syrup, which makes
its presence felt before levelling out on the finish. If you don’t like ginger, pick a different drink. Or ask the bartender to serve you a spin on the classics. House infusions, including turmeric liqueur and various gins and vodkas laced with local spices, give a Negroni (B320) or an Old Fashioned (B280) a lively twist. Whether you’re at Fou de Joie or the third-floor bar (fast evolving into a beer and bourbon joint), you can enjoy any menu FooJohn has to offer. That includes charcuterie boards (from B200) and cuts from SpareParts, a project by the folks behind the Deli-Q food truck. The smell of slow-cooked ribs, pulled pork, and burnt ends (from B420) permeates the building. Go ahead: indulge! Like FooJohn itself, these spare parts add up to one irresistible product. by Craig Sauers
FooJohn Building
831 Charoen Krung Rd, Soi 31 Tel: 085 527 3511 Open: Wed-Sun, 7pm-midnight www.facebook.com/foojohnbkk bangkok101.com
review | NIGHTLIFE
Octave Rooftop Lounge Stunning views that definitely hit a high note
I
n Thong Lor, no fewer than five community malls have opened over the past four years, and an equal number of condos have gone up in that time. Countless restaurants, clubs, and bars have closed, too. All of this is to say it’s a testament to quality that Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar has not only survived the past four years, but that it still packs in guests every night, too. From the riverside to the northern reaches of Lad Phrao, there’s no shortage of venues sitting more than 40 floors above Bangkok. They don’t all have staying power, mind you, but Octave does. Start with the setting. Perched atop the Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor gives you either an eagle-eye view down the shimmering chute of Sukhumvit Road, or off into the city’s skyscraper-less expanses to the east. Head up to the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, and suddenly you have breath-taking views in every direction. Octave has more to offer than pretty scenery. Those in search of a bangkok101.com
sundowner should heed the 5pm-7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. That brings them down to about B200 each. It’s a great deal for a rooftop bar, even better when you factor in the service: shortly before 7pm, the wait staff will visit your table to collect last-call orders. The signature drinks on special play to the breadth of international tastes. Those who like simple and strong cocktails should try the Back to Basics (B450). This riff on the Old Fashioned uses vanilla syrup and homemade coffee bitters to give it a sweeter fragrance than the original recipe, but with a more rounded bite. If you prefer tropical flavours, try the Thai Mojito (B370). This locally inspired spin on the global classic brings mango into the mix and swaps Thai basil for mint; the latter adds an anise-like note that plays off the citrus. The Shining Sun (B380) also combines tropical and Thai flavours, but with one obscure ingredient. Flor de Caña aged rum is mixed with tamarind, homemade pomelo-and-
lime shrub (tangy, vinegar-based fruit syrups), and mango and pineapple juices, then topped with the green fairy: absinthe. There’s a long list of classic cocktails, beer, and wine. That includes some quality champagne labels, a welcome sight for people celebrating special occasions. It all goes well with the lounge’s light dishes. For the most variety, and the most fun, get one of the boxes. For B1,550, four compartments of a clear jewellery box hit the table filled with oysters, sushi rolls, sashimi, and prawns, or Wagyu sliders, pork ribs, Japanese fried chicken, and black cod. In many ways, Octave really does take rooftop bars to the next level. by Craig Sauers
Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit Sukhumvit Soi 57 Tel: 02 797 0000 Open daily: 5pm–2am www.facebook.com/octavemarriott
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NIGHTLIFE | listings
BAR 3 Bears Craft Brewery
This craft beer bar is a collaborative project by an architect, a sound engineer, and a renowned local chef. Alongside the great locally made su ds, diners can order brewpub favorites like fried chicken wings and gourmet snacks such as piquant tempura-fried calamari. 1154, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Open: Mon-Fri, 4pm-midnight Sat-Sun 11am-midnight Tel: 095 456 8298 facebook.com/3bearscb
Backstage Bar
Backstage Bar
Acclaimed as Bangkok’s best new cocktail bar, this drink spot offers a variety of
cocktail menus created by talented bartenders. While a soundtrack featuring big band covers of pop songs plays on, the fun-loving staff jokes around with everyone, even the first-timers, but they also make sure all customers get the right drink for their tastes. Playhaus Thong Lor 205/22-23, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 712 5747 Open daily: 6pm-1am facebook.com/backstagecocktailbarbkk
more like a SoHo warehouse loft space owned by an eccentric millionaire. 1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 094 647 8888 Open daily: 11am-midnight facebook.com/pg/duke.gaysorn
Goldencoins Taproom
Wood and brick loom large in the low-lit interiors, chalkboard menus list the kitchen’s comfort food, and an ample selection of craft beers—all made by the owner—tempt Thai craft beer connoisseurs of all kinds. Ekkamai Mall, Ekkamai Soi 10 Open daily: 5pm-midnight Tel: 082 675 9673 facebook.com/goldencoinstaproom
Duke
Although it’s in a mall, this high-end whisky and cigar lounge—full to bursting with paintings and sculptures—feels
Inblu Bar
Inblu Bar
Located on the hotel’s lobby level, this stylish drink spot offers an extensive selection of beers, whiskies, cocktails, and wines, plus tasty nibbles and great live music seven days a week. Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.pullmanbankokgrandesukhumvit.com
Duke
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listings | NIGHTLIFE
Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar
A world-class wine bar that isn’t just all about wine. Offering 40 wines to choose from as well as some exciting options for the non-wine-inclined, while refined, rustic European cuisine is served up tapas-style for social dining. 2F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1133 Open daily: 11am-midnight www.riedelwinebarbkk.com
Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant
Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant
This sophisticated (and elevated) drink spot and bistro offers tipplers both a novel-sized wine list, and a host of creative cocktails—many of which make use of in-house infused spirits. 37F, Pullman Hotel Bangkok G Open daily: 6pm-late Tel: 096 860 7990 www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk
Shades of Retro
It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lor hotspot, stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and plenty of antiques.
Soi Tararom 2, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 714 9450 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.facebook.com/shadesofretrobar
The Bar
Featuring a black and gold colour theme, and both indoor and outdoor seating, this 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated, quiet, and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 7am-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com
MahaNakhon Cube Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 001 0697 Open daily: 10am-late www.voguelounge.com
ROOFTOP SKY BAR amBar
Touché Hombre
Located on the 8th floor rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, this pool bar offers an inviting and relaxed lounge atmosphere. 8F, Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi15 Tel: 02 309 3288 Open daily: 4pm-midnight www.ambarbangkok.com
Vogue Lounge
Char
This hugely popular Mexican bar and restaurant offers curious customers a chance to sample the finest mezcals and top-end tequilas, as well as superb Mexican-inspired dishes. 2F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7760 Open daily: 6pm-1am (Fri-Sat till 2am) www.touchehombre.com
This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and former chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks.
Char
Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999
Bangkok Local Market Menu 100% Local 100% BUNKER 5 Courses Set Menu for 1,200++ THB Bunker Restaurant, Sathorn soi 12 For reservations + 66 92 563 9991 email: reservation@bunkerbkk.com
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NIGHTLIFE | listings Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok
Cielo Sky Bar
A rooftop bar, with a business-casual ambiance and unbeatable views of Bangkok, serving a wide-ranging and impressive list of cocktails at fair prices. 46F, Sky Walk Condominium Sukhumvit Soi 69 Tel: 02 348 9100 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.cieloskybar.com
CRU Champagne Bar
This high altitude hot spot is own by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com
Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok
Open daily: 9am-late www.theaustralianbkk.com
The Penalty Spot
The crowds that form here come mostly to check out live sports on TV, drink beer on draft, and watch the passing parade from the front window of this cozy pub. 507-511 Sukhumvit Rd. (near Soi 29) Tel: 02 661 6164 Open daily: 3pm-2am www.facebook.com/thepenaltyspot Zest Bar and Terrace
Zest Bar and Terrace
Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails, and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-1am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com
CLUB
LIVE MUSIC Black Cabin
Half the space at Wild & Co. restaurant is given over to this brick-walled pub which eschews the mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists. Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/blackcabinbar
8 on Eleven
Red Sky Bar
Red Sky Bar
One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars, perched dramatically above the heart of the city, offers light bites and drinks such as the signature Imperial Mojito and Martini-infused cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open Daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com
Sky On 20
At this stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok. Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 116 | OCTOBER 2017
A gastro bar with a modern industrial twist and a 2nd floor dance area, this nightlife venue offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes with a modern twist. 14, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 093 421 1991 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/8oneleven
Brown Sugar
Cé La Vi
Brown Sugar
One of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, this is a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. 39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com
PUBS The Australian
A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. 37, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 0800
Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime tunes draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com
Queen Bee
A great place to hang out and meet up with friends while enjoying great live music. Come play some pool and check out some of Bangkok’s best rock’n’roll and blues cover bands. 25/9, Sukumvit Soi 26 Tel: 092 446 4234 Open: 10:30am-2am www.facebook.com/QueenBeeBangkok bangkok101.com
Photo by Megan Rogers
SIGNING OFF | did you know?
The ThaiHarvest|SOS team
D
id you know that ThaiHarvest|SOS, a food rescue foundation, collects surplus food from all over Bangkok and delivers it where it is most needed—to the mouths (and bellies) of the hungry? Established in 2016, ThaiHarvest|SOS is the result of two charities coming together. Scholars of Sustenance (SOS), was founded by Bo Holmgreen, who made a career in software and banking but wanted to dedicate his money and time to a more noble cause. After SOS launched in Thailand, they joined forces with the long-running OzHarvest, which was founded by Ronni Kahn in Sydney, and now operates all over Australia, as well as in New Zealand and the UK. For both of these organizations food waste is seen as a major problem. ThaiHarvest|SOS collects quality surplus food—at no charge—from hotels, supermarkets, restaurants, cafes, and other commercial outlets, and delivers it at no cost to communities in need. In addition, excess food no longer fit for consumption is taken to be composted at local family farms. Food waste in landfills produces a large amount of methane—a more powerful greenhouse gas than even CO2—which contributes to global warming and climate change. With only two trucks, and just a handful of supply points, the group is still able to capture 1.5 tons daily that would have simply ended up in landfills. To date the organization has proudly donated well over 120,000 meals (approximately 40 tons), while their compost programme has saved over 97 tons from landfills. “We operate seven days a week,” explains Abigail Smith, the group’s Chief Operations Officer. “We run
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two programmes: compost and edible, so we always have two trucks on the road. One is a cooler truck, which collects from our 'edible' partners, and the other is a basic truck which collects plastic-free bins full of prepscrap from hotels. In the morning we head out on pickups of food donations from multiple places in Bangkok, and the food collected is all checked, weighed, packaged appropriately, and then given out to the community or communities designated for the day. We focus on providing food for those who can truly cannot work. We work with orphanages, homes for the mentally disabled, refugees, and temples who take care of the sick”. Anyone wishing to help out can do so in several ways. Firstly, if you think the company you work for has surplus food, see your head of CSR and tell them to contact ThaiHarvest|SOS, who will be happy to discuss working together. You could also donate money or goods, whether it be personal donations and corporate sponsorship. Finally, you can also donate your time, spent either riding along in the food truck—approx. 10am start and 4pm finish—or spending a morning on a sustainable farm where you’ll assist in a day of making nutrient rich soil from food waste. “Our entire team here in Bangkok has varied backgrounds, from teaching to sales to environmental studies,” Abigail goes on to say. “I believe that bringing together a team from across multiple sectors is where we find strength, and has given us the ability to tackle food waste with multi-leveled programmes and campaigns.” www.thaiharvestsos.org
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