Bangkok101 Magazine September 2016 by Talisman Media

Publisher’s Letter

angkok is definitely what you would call a “caffeinated” city. Whether it’s old grannies drinking tea by the bucketful, taxi and bus drivers socking back Red Bull in order to stay awake, or urban hipsters sipping single origin roast artisanal lattes, there are a lot of liquid stimulants keeping this manic metropolis going. Which is why each year we devote one issue to café culture, exploring what’s new in the world of brewers and baristas. We’ve also updated our café listings to include many new java joints that have opened up in the past year, and we’ve also got a “coffee cup contest” in which observant readers have a chance to win some cool prizes, including a one night complimentary hotel stay. So, order up your favourite dark roast, espresso, or tea blend, turn to page 18, and sit back and settle in to this year’s 16-page ‘Café Culture’ issue. Of course, we also have plenty of decaffeinated content as well, including a travel story about mountain climbing in Sri Lanka (page 48), exclusive coverage of the upcoming 18th annual Bangkok International Festival of Dance and Music (page 56), an arts photo feature showcasing the whimsical paintings of Korean artist Gi-ok Jeon (page 60), and a new monthly feature in which we highlight interesting wine events and dinners going on in Bangkok. Add to this all our regular food, nightlife, film, spa, and music listings, and you may have to order a second cappuccino to get through it all. All this and more—including our Bangkok 101 archive and extras— Enjoy. can be found online at www. bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not Mason Florence covering, but should be, please drop Publisher us a line at info@talisman.asia.

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

SEP TEM BER 2016 | 5

CONTENTS 14

CITY PULSE 10

Metro Beat What’s going on this month in and around Bangkok

Out and About Wild Encounter Thailand takes whale watchers on a cetaceous sea adventure

Property Profile The Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside hotel celebrates 30 years along the river

CAFÉ CULTURE 18

Best of BKK Artisanal coffee roasters reshape the city’s café scene

My Bangkok Meet Dale Lee, co-founder of CoffeeWorks

Favourite Cafés Bangkok big-shots recommend their own personal favourite coffee spots

Joe’s Bangkok The old Customs House languishes by the riverside in a state of artful decay

Café Reviews Dean & Deluca; Man Fu Yuan

Very Thai Caffeine tonics fuel the nation

Made in Thailand Elefin coffee brand specializes in Thai-grown coffee

44 Heritage The art and arches of Suankularb Wittayalai School

Making Merit MiVana’s organic coffee plantations

Café Listings Where to find some of the city’s best coffee shops

SNAPSHOTS 36

Tom’s Two Satangs How Thais have adapted cultures and lifestyles from foreign influences

Bizarre Thailand Jim Algie spends a frenzied night with Bangkok’s corpse collectors

On the cover

Bangkok’s best baristas supply the city with daily doses of quality coffee… all good to the last drop! Photo courtesy of CoffeeWorks (see story on page 22).

TRAVEL 46

Travel Updates

48 50

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand Over The Border The slopes of Sri Lanka’s most sacred peak rewards one with an early morning knock on heaven’s door

ART & CULTURE 54

Art Updates

56 58

Art Exhibitions Bangkok’s latest museum and art gallery openings

Cinema Scope This month’s special film events and screenings

Photo Feature A Space to Exist: solo exhibition by artist Gi-ok Jeon

Arts Feature Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance & Music returns for another season

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | SEP TEM BER 2016

bangkok101.com

CONTENTS 71

FOOD & DRINK

Food & Drink Updates

Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners

Hot Plates A classic Thai dish gets a revamp at Baan Phadthai

Food & Drink Feature Anantara Siam’s World Gourmet Festival returns with a stellar line-up of dinners, brunches, and other events

Restaurant Reviews Saffron; Food Exchange; Celadon; Basil

100

Live Music 101’s Rock Philosopher reports on the live music scene

Breaking Bread with Philippe Rusin, the GM of D’Ark Bangkok

101

Club Report Check out some of the hottest DJ events this month

Eat Like Nym Be sure to visit Nang Loeng market for its Khanom Beung Yuan Ya Cham

102

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

NIGHTLIFE 92

Nightlife Updates

Bar Reviews Rarb

96 Imbibe The secret behind Char’s superbly smoked cocktail 98

Connoisseur’s Corner Wine related news and events in Bangkok

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Phen Parkpien Naritha Yonyubon

LIFE+STYLE 106

Lifestyle Updates

108

Spa Deals Bangkok spas offer amazing deals and discounts

109

Wellness Reviews Lifestyles on 26

SIGNING OFF 110

Did You Know?... CoffeeWorks offers barista training for professionals and amateurs alike

Craig Sauers, Lekha Shankar, Tom Vitayakul, Anne Wong CONTRIBUTING

ART DIRECTOR

PHOTOGRAPHERS

PUBLISHER

Narong Srisaiya

Mason Florence

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Dave Crimaldi, Jirayu Ekkul, Wattanapong Hotavaisaya, Anupong Hotawaisaya, Nipon Riabriang, Chan Kit Yeng

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Thanakrit Skulchartchai

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Parinya Krit-Hat

STRATEGISTS

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Pongphop Songsiriarcha EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings WRITER & DIGITAL EDITOR

Julia Offenberger

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi SALES MANAGER

MANAGING EDITOR

Bruce Scott

GENERAL MANAGER

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Orawan Ratanapratum

Jim Algie, Gary Barber, Luc Citrinot, Philip CornwellSmith, Dave Crimaldi, Marco Ferrarese, Pawika Jansamakao, Reena Karim-Hallberg, Samantha Proyrungtong, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa,

SALES AND MARKETING

Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon SALES EXECUTIVE

Kiattisak Chanchay DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Seri Sartsanapiti

PUBLISHED BY

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2016. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CITY PULSE | metro beat

SEPTEMBER’S HOTTEST TICKETS September 3

TED TALKS September 4

Sharing ideas that are worth spreading into communities around the world is the aim behind TEDxChulalongkornU, an independently organized TEDx event put together by Chulalongkorn University students. As the title of the event implies, Take Off, Go For It, which is being presented at the Siam-Pic Ganesha Theatre (1 Pathum Wan), encourages participants to go further and jump out of their comfort zones. Learn about the stories, ideas, talents, and passions of those who have successfully found their ideal creative paths. The event runs from 1pm till 6pm, and tickets are priced at B200, B500, and B1,500 each. www.tedxchulalongkornu.com

MODERN DANCE September 22-25

This month Jitti Chompee, a premier Thai choreographer, presents his latest creation entitled Red Peter, at the Bangkok CityCity Gallery (13/3 Sathorn 1, South Sathorn Rd). Animalism, absurdity, and evolution are corresponding concepts that prevail in Chompee’s work—inspired in part by Franz Kafka—and this performance draws from the many elements of an ape’s journey of learning to behave like a human. This creative project premiered at the Korzo Theatre in The Hague this past June, and Canadian dancer Benjamin Tardif, who studied Khon dance drama at the College of Dramatic Arts of Sukhothai in Thailand, is the primary cast member. Tickets are B800, and B350 for students, and show starts each evening at 7:30pm. www.18monkeysdancetheatre.com 10 | SEP TEM BER 2016

The chart-topping Scottish synth-pop band Chvrches will finally make their long-awaited debut appearance here in Bangkok, as the official headliners of Tiger Jam’s Centerstage music festival. Also in the line up are local indie rockers Polycat, Somkiat, Jelly Rocket, Chvrches and several others. It’s going to be a massive night of quality live music, with visuals from local artists such as Note Dudesweet, Eyedropper Fill, and Tuna Dunn. The concert takes place at BITEC Bangna Hall (88 Bang Na-Trat Rd), with ticket prices set at B1,000 and B1,500. Doors are set to open at 3pm for the day-long event. www.thaiticketmajor.com

September 8

The Montreal-based pop-punk band Simple Plan are set to blow the roof off Moonstar Studio (Studio 8, Ladprao Soi 80) as they bring their Taking One For The Team Tour 2016 to Bangkok this month. The award-winning five-piece band have released five studio albums to date, as well as two live albums, and have performed numerous times on the Vans Warped Tour. Get set for a night of beer chugging and body slamming. Tickets are B2,800 and showtime is 8pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com

September 10

What happens when three wildly experimental musical virtuosos—one American, one German, and one British—get together to form a prog-rock-fusion supergroup? The answer comes in the form of The Aristocrats, and this super group are bringing their Tres Caballeros world tour to Bangkok for one night only, gracing the stage of the M Theatre (2884/2 New Phetchaburi Rd). Prepare for a mindblowing night of musical genius with Guthrie Govan (guitar), Bryan Beller (bass) and Marco Minnemann (drums). The show starts at 8pm and tickets are B800, B1,500 and B2,500. www.thaiticketmajor.com bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

SEPTEMBER’S HOTTEST TICKETS September 13

The renowned American a capella band Pentatonix, that has amassed hundreds of millions of views on YouTube, is coming to Bangkok for a Soundbox music event this month. The five-member, multi-racial group—made up of four guys and one girl—has been making waves in the music industry since 2012, receiving Grammy awards and many other accolades. Experience the magic of hearing complex music, made using only vocals, by attending this one-of-a-kind performance. The show is at Muang Thai GMM Live House, located on the 8th floor of Central World, and it starts at 7pm. Tickets are priced at B2,000. www.thaiticketmajor.com

September 22

As part of the Italian Festival in Thailand, renowned guitarist Alessio Monti will be performing at the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC Auditorium). Mr. Monti is widely versed in musical explorations, and his expertise can be seen both in his playing and in his instrument itself, which features a kalimba as well as a resonator. Monti currently lives in Thailand, working for the Music College of Payap University in Chiang Mai as a lecturer. His concert begins at 7pm, and admission is free. www.ambbangkok.esteri.it

September 30

Yes, it’s true, the Queen + Adam Lambert tour is making a stop in BKK, at Impact Arena Muang Thong Thani, and fans of the wildly successful 70s and 80s supergroup are already stoked to hear such anthemic classics as “We Are The Champions”, “Fat Bottomed Girls” and, of course, “Bohemian Rhapsody”. Singer Adam Lambert, who rose to fame in 2009 after finishing as the runner-up on Season 8 of American Idol, will be taking the place of the late Freddie Mercury for this epic rock spectacle. The prices for tickets range from B2,000 to B8,000. www.thaiticketmajor.com

AFRO LATIN FESTIVAL

Stanislavsky Ballet

MUSIC & DANCE From September 8

From September 8th to October 19th, the Bangkok International Festival of Dance and Music 2016 brings over 40 artists from across the world to perform at the Thailand Cultural Center. This is the 18th edition of this hugely anticipated annual event, and things begin with three nights of performances by the Moscow Stanislavsky Ballet—September 8, 9 and 11—followed by India’s extraordinary Aditi Mangaldas Dance Company on the 14th of the month. Other international performances will showcase celebrated touring companies from as far afield as Germany, Switzerland, France, Israel, Canada, Spain, Turkey, and the USA. Some visitors however will be from not so distant locales, including the award-winning China National Acrobatic Troupe from Beijing who will be doing an evening performance on Friday, September 30th, followed by afternoon shows on Saturday and Sunday (October 1st and 2nd). Ticket prices differ for each performance, ranging from B600 to B4,500. www.bangkokfestivals.com Chinese Acrobats

September 30-October 3

Get set for three consecutive days and nights of nonstop music and fun as the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok plays host to the Kizobasa Afro Latin Festival. The line up of events includes 35+ hours of musical workshops as well as three nights of musical performances and parties. The all-inclusive festival ‘Full Pass’ is priced at B5,250, or you can get the ‘Party Pass’ for just B1,400. Festivities start on Friday night, from 8pm till 2am, and Saturday and Sunday the festival runs from 11am till 2am. www.kizobasa.com bangkok101.com

Turn to page 58 for further coverage of this exciting festival of the arts. SEP TEM BER 2016 | 11

CITY PULSE | metro beat

INDIAN CLASSICAL MUSIC September 17

STAND-UP COMEDY September 11

The folks behind the Comedy Club Bangkok—which continues to have comedy events every Friday evening at the Royal Oak Pub—are doing something a bit special this month by bringing English-Irish stand-up comedian Jimmy Carr to the 600seat ballroom at the Westin Grande Sukhumvit (259 Sukhumvit Rd) for two shows in one evening. Carr, known for his signature laugh, deadpan delivery, and dark humour, will no doubt find plenty of sacred cows to skewer when he touches down in BKK. Tickets range in price from B1,800 to B3,200, and the showtimes are 7pm and 9:30pm. Visit the website to purchase tickets. www.comedyclubbangkok.com

From 6pm till 9:30pm there will be a special Indian classical music concert featuring renowned tabla maestro Ustad Zakir Hussain, presented at The National Theatre (2 Rachini Rd). Hussain’s father—also a revered figure in Indian classical music—began his son’s musical education when the boy was just three years old. Regarded as a child prodigy, Hussain was a touring musician by the age of 11. Joining this award-winning artist on stage will be such accomplished musicians as Sabir Khan (master of the sarangi), Balwant Singh Namdhari (vocalist), Kirpal Singh Panesar, (master of the tar shehnai), and additional tabla courtesy of Harpreet Singh Namdhari. The performance is free, but it is recommended that you register online beforehand. Call 086 621 0222, or email info@namdharithailand.com.

SWING DANCE SPECTACULAR September 24

THEATRE SHOW Starts September 25

This month the Bangkok Community Theatre presents the play Art, written by Yasmina Reza, which will be staged at the Blue Box Studio M Theatre (2884/2, New Petchaburi Rd). The story centres around a man named Serge, who buys a painting, and the reactions of his friends, Marc and Yvan, to his purchase. For Marc, the purchase of this painting threatens to wreck his friendship with Serge. Meanwhile Yvan tries to mediate the disaffection between his two friends, often at the cost of redirecting their hostilities upon himself. There will be five performances in total—September 23, 24, 29, 30, and October 1—and tickets are B500. Showtime each evening is 7:30pm, and the poster warns of “adult language” so please leave the kiddies at home. www.bangkokcommunitytheatre.com 12 | SEP TEM BER 2016

Hetty Kate

Bangkok’s hep cats are gathering this month for Diga Diga Doo, an unforgettable evening of live music, social dancing, and shows taking place at the Shanghai Mansion (481 Yaowarat Rd), a stunning, 1930s-style hotel with a palatial ballroom. Jump and jive to a big band led by legendary New York pianist Gordon Webster, along with the vocal stylings of Hetty Kate. In addition there will be Lindy Hop performances, a scintillating burlesque revue, and some jawdropping tap dancing displays. The evening’s entertainment gets underway at 8pm, and tickets are B1,200 in advance, and B1,500 at the door. www.digadigadoobkk.com

SPORTING EVENTS September 25

The first annual AWC Run for Dek Thai takes place at Lumpini Park, and runners taking part will be competing for a good cause, namely the American Women’s Club (AWC) Scholarship Program which raises funds to help underprivileged girls in rural Thailand finish high school. Tickets are priced at B350 and B1,000 but you are welcome to donate more if you wish. The run starts at 5pm and finishes at 7pm, and the distances are 10k, 7.5k, 5k and 2.5k. Participants should register for the event by visiting the official website. www.awcthailand.org/register_ runfordekthai bangkok101.com

RESORT HUA HIN

Photo by Jirayu Ekkul

CITY PULSE | out & about

Bryde’s whales at feeding time

Whale of a Daytrip

Wild Encounter Thailand specializes in cetaceous sea adventures By Jim Algie

ew sights in the animal kingdom are more spellbinding than the sight of a Bryde’s whale breaking the water’s surface to open its cavernous maw, which remains agape for a minute or two, as fish try to leap out and seabirds dive and screech in a bid to snap up some live supper in mid-air. That’s how these goliaths feed. Known as baleen whales, because they have baleen plates instead of teeth, this group of filter feeders includes the largest mammal that has ever

14 | SEP T EM BER 2016

existed on planet earth, and is severely endangered today: the Blue Whale, whose heart alone can weigh 200 kgs. Whale watching is a pastime many would associate with Alaska, Australia, or the Maritime region of Canada, but the Gulf of Thailand is a feeding and breeding ground for a resident population of some 40 Bryde’s whales. These leviathans, which are up to 14-meters long and 18-tonnes humongous, are the largest out of four marine mammals in the gulf, the others being the

Irrawaddy dolphin, and two much rarer species, the finless porpoise and the Indo-Pacific humpback dolphin. Wild Encounter Thailand is the only company that offers argosies to spot these cetaceans. The pier for their converted fishing trawler, which can accommodate up to 40 guests, is only an hour’s drive from Bangkok, in the coast-kissing province of Samut Sakhon. From the first downpours of the monsoon season in May, until the end of the calendar year, the company bangkok101.com

out & about | CITY PULSE

does outings almost every Saturday and Sunday. But the peak season for sightings is September and October, because that’s when the anchovies, and other small fish the whales feed on, are most plentiful. The company’s founder and main guide is Jirayu Ekkul, a man with lots of experience both above and beneath the waves, as an underwater photographer, NGO worker, and a consultant on sustainable tourism enterprises that aim to help locals navigate the high tides and shoals of launching similar odysseys within the kingdom. Wild Encounter Thailand prides itself on being an eco-sensitive venture. For one thing, they do not use any electronic devices to track the creatures—all the spotting is done by eye—and they make the tours as educational as possible. Jirayu, a fluent English speaker and self-taught expert in marine biology, begins every tour by briefing all his guests. First he showed us a map of the Gulf of Thailand, with the five big rivers feeding into it, before giving us some historical facts about one of its largest inhabitants, the Bryde’s whale (pronounced “Brudas” after the Norwegian whaler who first discovered them only to promptly turn around and try to harpoon some of them). Jirayu explained that these largely solitary animals tend to forage by themselves. The only pairs one is likely to encounter are mothers with their calves. At the age of two or three, already skilled in survival techniques, bangkok101.com

the calves will go their own way. We were only 15 or 20 minutes out to sea when the crew spotted a small pod of Irrawaddy dolphins. Unlike other dolphin species, these hump-headed creatures have no beak, and are not renowned for their leaping ability. However, they are incredibly fast swimmers, coming up to gulp down some air every minute or so, their whole bodies rising up out of the water in spumes of foam. That scene whetted our collective appetites for more cetaceans, a category that includes both whale and dolphin species, but hours rolled by as we scanned the waves for more dorsal fins without a single sighting. At least the scenery of deep green water and dark blue islands was good, the saltwater smells rejuvenating, and the metropolitan madhouse of Bangkok reduced to a negligible smudge on the horizon—a tableau of matchbox buildings and toothpick spires. It was just after a Thai buffet lunch onboard when the excited cries of the crew had us scrambling for the bow. Some 20 meters away was the dorsal fin of a Bryde’s whale slicing through the water. Soon it vanished beneath the waves. Everyone had their cameras out, craning their necks to see where it would surface next. With a hiss the whale spouted a fine mist of water as it resurfaced to draw another breath on the other side of the boat. Each time it breached, its grey back slid up and across the surface for perhaps a dozen seconds, making it easy to catch a glimpse but

Irrawaddy dolphin

Photos by Bruce Scott

Dorsal fin of a Bryde’s whale breaking the surface of the water

Photo by Jirayu Ekkul

On the lookout

Jirayu Ekkul

hard to take a decent photo (even though the whale swam around the boat for a good 20 minutes, surfacing at irregular intervals). After that adrenaline burst of excitement, the next few hours drifted past in a relaxing torpor with many passengers taking a snooze, but no one laying an eyeball on any more whales. To make up for our mild disappointment, on the way back to port a pod of perhaps 10 Irrawaddy dolphins burst from the waves in front of the boat. It was late afternoon and the horizon had darkened to deep blue, the sunlight coming down in shafts through the clouds as the dolphins streaked through the water—two or four of them breaking the waves at the same time to make the passengers coo with awe as if they’d just seen a firework flower across the sky. We frantically tried to follow them with our viewfinders for a spectacular photo finish to our whale of a daytrip. For more details, or to book a whale watching trip, visit Wild Encounter Thailand online. www.wildencounterthailand.com SEP TEM BER 2016 | 15

CITY PULSE | property profile

Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside Bangkok’s historic hotel celebrates 30 years along the river By Bruce Scott

f you could travel back in time and see Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River 30 years ago, you probably wouldn’t recognize it. Back then there were just a handful of luxury hotel properties dotting either side of the river, and the new kid on the block back in 1986 would have been the Menam Riverside hotel. Fast forward again to 2016 and the city’s riverbanks are now overflowing with 4 and 5 star hotels, premium condo developments, and lifestyle malls. But through it all the Menam remained firmly in place, rebranding itself in November of 2007 as the Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside. And in honour of its pearl anniversary, the hotel is hosting a grand reception in their ballroom on the 14th of September, 2016. It’s not hard to see why this vacation haven continues to maintain a foothold along what is arguably Bangkok’s most valuable real estate. The hotel features 525 tastefully 16 | SEP TEM BER 2016

furnished guest rooms and suites, ranging in size from the 34 sq.m Deluxe rooms, to the two 170 sq.m Presidential Suites. There are also dedicated non-smoking floors, as well as ‘special needs’ accessible guestrooms for the elderly and physically challenged. On a recent visit I settled into one of the 52 sq.m Executive Plaza Suites, which all come furnished with twin or king-sized beds and include a separate lounge area with sofa and coffee table, a work desk, two flatscreen TVs— one in the lounge and one in the bedroom—and an en suite bathroom that includes both a bathtub and separate shower. And just to remind me of how choice my location truly was, my windows both looked out over the river and the Asiatique The Riverfront community mall and entertainment complex, which is practically the hotel’s next door neighbour. bangkok101.com

property profile | CITY PULSE

Executive Plaza Suite

These Executive Plaza Suites also come with Ramada club privileges, including private check in/out, complimentary city calls, use of the boardroom, shoeshine service, late check-out and more, as well as access to the 15th floor Club Members Lounge where a complimentary afternoon tea is served daily from 2pm till 4pm, and evening cocktails and canapés are on offer during the daily “happy hour” (6pm till 7:30pm). This spacious private lounge is also a great place to have breakfast—especially with the morning sun streaming in through the many large windows—and although the delicious buffet selection is slightly smaller than in the main breakfast area on the ground level, the peace and quiet up on the 15th floor is a welcome bonus to many (especially those of us who love a leisurely read of the morning paper over coffee). Of course if you prefer your morning meal by the banks of the river then the daily breakfast buffet at Terrace@72 is where you should steer yourself. The selections here are quite varied—catering to Western, Asian, and even Indian palates—and you can choose to sit either in the air-conditioned main room or out on the riverfront terrace overlooking the passing parade of boats and barges that make their way up and down the Chao Phraya each morning. Recreational amenities at the hotel include all the things you’d expect from a 5-star property—including spa, fitness room, meeting rooms, and kid’s club—but for many guests the beautiful ground floor swimming pool is the place to congregate and while away the sun drenched afternoons. The pool itself is surrounded by a lush perimeter of jungle greenery, while an ornate wooden Thai-style sala adds the right touch of tropical flavour. I also like that the ceramic tiles that line the pool’s bottom are a deep shade of blue, making it look like real ocean water. Poolside dining is available at the Coconut Terrace, inside at The Waves restaurant, or just order drinks and snacks from the Sala Thai Pool Bar and never leave the comfort of your sun lounger. Finally, at the end of a hard day of relaxing, don’t miss out on the nightly international dinner buffet served bangkok101.com

Afternoon Tea

in the Terrace@72 restaurant. The selection and quality here is both impressive and extensive (don’t pass up the lamb curry or the lemon butter salmon). Of course, fine dining can also be had at the hotel’s elegant Eurasian Grill restaurant, which is re-opened as of last year. NOTE: During the hotel’s anniversary month they are offering several special promotions, including “spend B1,000 get B1,000” dinner vouchers. And if September 7th happens to be your birthday as well, you’ll receive a B3,000 voucher which can be used towards room stays or dining in any of the hotel’s F&B outlets.

The Waves restaurant

Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside 2074 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 02 688 1000 www.ramadaplazamenamriverside.com

Know Before You Go The Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside has its own shuttle boat service to and from the Sathorn Central Pier (at Saphan Taksin BTS station), which runs regularly till 11pm, as well as complimentary tuk tuk service to nearby Asiatique.

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CAFÉ CULTURE | best of bkk

Our Cups Runneth Over Artisanal coffee roasters are reshaping the city’s café scene By Julia Offenberger

raditionally, coffee in Thailand is dark, bitter, and consumed with lots of sugar, condensed milk, and (usually) ice. It’s available on almost every street corner, and the beans are typically fully roasted, resulting in an undistinguishable taste regardless of the coffee’s origin. In this way prices are kept low but, unfortunately, so is the quality. In recent years, however, Thailand’s coffee culture has changed and expanded. While the

typical Thai coffee style is still ingrained in the overall culture, Bangkok has seen a lot more specialized cafés and roasters opening up lately, and these businesses are focusing on quality coffee—trying to perfect the art of highlighting each bean’s taste and strength. We spoke with three of Bangkok’s most revered artisanal coffee roasters about their passion for the product, as well as their thoughts about coffee culture in Thailand.

PHIL COFFEE COMPANY Hidden away at the end of a quiet side soi that branches off Sukhumvit Soi 61, Phil Coffee Company serves quality single origin espressos and filter coffees as well as a few special blends. Open since November 2014, this artisan coffee roastery is run by three siblings: roaster Han Wang, and his sisters Jaszmine and I Wuen. It was during Han’s time studying in Melbourne that he developed a passion for coffee and, inspired by the Australian coffee culture, he visited a roaster in Taiwan and decided to get into the business himself. He attended a short training course, bought a coffee roaster machine, and spent three years experimenting and learning about the process—from roasting and brewing, to extracting and tasting—in a little shop in Bang Na. Thankfully he also made a lot of friends in the industry who were willing to share their knowledge with him. Nowadays, the siblings import beans from all around the world, including Colombia, Kenya, Brazil, Nicaragua, and also Thailand. To keep things interesting, the beans are freshly roasted in small batches every week, and the options change regularly. On the day I visited, the ‘single origin of the day’ was from Kenya, and in order to get the most taste possible I was served a split espresso—one espresso and one piccolo (espresso with milk). It was

Coffee Cup Contest - Match the cups and win! In this issue of Bangkok 101 we have hidden 5 (five) pairs of Coloured Coffee Cups, scattered randomly throughout the magazine. Match them all, and you could win great prizes, including the grand prize of a one-night luxury stay at the Mövenpick Siam Hotel Pattaya (including breakfast for 2). When you have found all 5 pairs, email us the answers at editorial@talisman.asia, and include your full contact details (name, age, address, and phone number). For example, you can phrase your answer like this: “There’s a pair of cups on pages __ and __, there’s a 2nd pair of cups on pages __ and __, there’s a 3rd pair...” and so on. Finally, be sure to “like” our page on Facebook and you’ll be entered into the lucky draw! For complete rules, details, and a list of all the great prizes, just visit our website. www.bangkok101.com

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best of bkk | CAFÉ CULTURE slightly bittersweet in taste with a hint of salt, and quite strong. For the filter coffee, I tried beans from a farm in Colombia that revealed a bit of a floral note. To inform the consumer every cup comes with a small card listing the details of the coffee, including the farm, the processing method, and the coffee’s characteristics. In addition to their large single origin selection, they also produce two special blends: their house espresso blend Urso, and their light roasted signature filter blend Hummingbird. All of their roasts are available for wholesale—they deliver to several venues, including Rocket coffee—and for retail. You can also order online, share a coffee pool with other coffee lovers to save money, or even sign up for their monthly coffee subscription program in which a selection of different roasts will be delivered to your home. Or, just pop by this cool café (open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 6pm) and discover what you like while enjoying a cup in a relaxed atmosphere. www.philscoffeecompany.com

CERESIA COFFEE ROASTERS After the success of their first outlet on Sukhumvit Soi 31/1, the owners of Ceresia Coffee Roasters branched out just over a year ago and opened their second café in the

Tisco Tower at 48/2 Sathorn Rd. The secret of their success is definitively their shared love and passion for coffee—in fact, their story is a true coffee love story. The owners in question are Venezuelan sisters Lucia and Marian Aguilar (Marian now lives in Singapore) who, along with Lucia’s Thai husband Bret, opened both outlets. While coffee has always played a major role in the sisters’ lives—the two grew up on a coffee farm— Bret discovered his passion for a quality brew while living in London. The English capital was also the place where Bret and Lucia met (in a coffee shop, of course!). After moving to Thailand they started missing good quality, properly brewed coffee and so decided to set up their own business. Upon entering their unpretentious, and minimally furnished café on the ground floor of the Tisco Tower (open Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm, and Saturdays from 9am to 5pm), it is evident that in here the world revolves around coffee. A big blackboard indicates the latest roasting dates, and large plexiglass bins are filled with assorted aromatic beans, offering customers a wide variety of high-quality single-origins and special blends. Bret explains that most people have no idea of the history and hard work behind every cup, and that’s why Ceresia tries to be a sort of meeting point for farmers and customers. Every cup comes with a tag indicating the origin of the bean—my filter coffee was from a Colombian farm called Las Brias—and through their newsletter (available at the shops) they introduce the story of every farmer and their beans. While the couple also delivers their roasted beans to other places across town, including Library Café and Tribeca, their main focus is on retail. “We want to encourage home-brewing,” Lucia explains, adding that it’s important to communicate with customers. They often hand out samples, and help customers understand and appreciate a good cup, as every single step—from growing, processing, roasting, brewing and even grinding—affects the end result. Regarding the coffee scene in Thailand, the Ceresia team believes there is a market for everybody. Thai coffee is still a majority and will never go away, but the artisanal coffee culture is growing as more and more quality cafés pop up and people start to become more interested in the different flavours of beans. In addition, they are happy that this growing demand has had a positive impact on Thai coffee farmers, whose situation has improved dramatically over the past five years. Facebook: Ceresia Coffee Roasters

INK & LION Located on Soi Ekkamai 2 (off Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 63), and open only from Saturday to Tuesday, from 9am to 6pm, the Ink & Lion serves java junkies superb quality, handcrafted espressos, and pour-overs. The café’s combination of white-painted exposed brick walls lined with interesting artwork, and vintage wooden school tables, makes it a cool hang-out in which to enjoy a quality brew in an arty environment. bangkok101.com

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CAFÉ CULTURE | best of bkk The idea to open a coffee shop was inspired while co-owner Adithep ‘Kiak’ Pinijpinyo spent time working in California. Amazed by the large variety and high quality of beans, as well as the general coffee culture in San Francisco, he really started to appreciate a good cup o’ joe. He decided to attend a one-day workshop, and has since been teaching himself how to roast. Together with his partner Pui, he opened Ink & Lion in 2013. However, it was only this year that they started to roast their own beans in small batches. After some years of buying special blends from local roasters, they decided it was time for the next step—in order to shift the focus onto the beans and have more control over the quality and flavour. For now, there are three roasts available—Doi Thong Pattana (Thailand), Hacienda Supracafé (Colombia) and Gulili (Ethiopia)—and although the selection might be limited, each batch is of the highest quality, and the beans are also available for retail. A lot of thought has also been put into the packaging, and each of the three roasts has its own colour scheme, which both conveys its flavours and helps customers to decide. Kiak believes that Bangkok’s artisanal coffee scene is fast developing, and there is great potential for expansion. For Pui and himself, their aspiration is to support and present Thai coffee to the world, while at the same time introducing high-quality coffee to local consumers. www.facebook.com/inkandlioncafe

Cold Brew is Definitely Hot As competition in the coffee world heats up, the newest player in the game wants to cool things down. Cold brew coffee, made by soaking ground beans in cold water for 8 to 24 hours—the duration depends on the beans and is crucial for the final taste—is a refreshing alternative to your normal steaming hot espresso or frothy hot latte. And it’s becoming commonplace on more and more menus across town. But be warned… it contains nearly double the caffeine of conventionally brewed coffee. One of the newest additions to the cold brew scene is Bhava Café, a tiny greenish grey kiosk tucked away in a collection of food stalls on Naradhiwas Soi 1 (not far from the Sala Daeng BTS station) which specializes in ‘nitro cold brews’. Never heard of such a thing before? Well, basically it’s cold brew coffee infused with nitrogen, giving it a frothy and smooth texture similar to Guinness stout. And, just like beer, it is stored in a keg and served from a modified beer tap. The inspiration for the café came to Thai owner ‘Bank’ while he was studying and working as a barista in Sydney. When he returned to Thailand his goal was to start serving good quality coffee, and so he began to hand out free coffee in front of his house every morning for a year, before deciding to open his own stall at the beginning of July. After buying and modifying beer equipment and testing the perfect brewing times, he now offers a small selection of coffee with or without (B50/60) milk, as well as Thai tea. Because this type of brew can be produced in large quantities and stored in kegs, it makes it easier for Bank to both control and keep up the quality of each final cup, and continue working as a full-time engineer. In the future he hopes to roast his own beans, but for now he explains to a roaster the exact profile he wants, after which he tastes the beans and only buys if they are up to his standard and requirements. In his shop there are just two different types of beans to choose from—both grown Thailand—which allows him to keep prices low and compete with the standard instant coffee, while supporting Thai coffee farmers to improve their coffee. However be aware that the shop is only open Monday to Friday, and only from 7am to 2:30pm. So no weekend wake-ups just yet. www.facebook.com/bhavacafe 20 | SEP TEM BER 2016

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CAFÉ CULTURE | my bangkok

Dale Lee

Drinking more than a dozen cups of coffee a day may seem strange to some, but for businessman Dale Lee it comes with the territory. His company CoffeeWorks is all about coffee—taking care of roasting, distribution, equipment supplies, and even offering barista lessons.

devout bachelor, unashamed workaholic, and jazz musician, Dale Lee is also the cofounder of CoffeeWorks (100/68 Sukhumvit Soi 26), one of Thailand’s first coffee roasters and equipment solution providers. After working for years in the coffee industry in the US, at a time when the coffee shop business model started to boom and companies like Starbucks were just developing, he and his best friend Andrew Stotz began their own startup in Thailand, back in 1995. However, it was not an easy road. They experienced huge obstacles, and were nearly forced out of business, but now they are supplying over 500 coffee shops throughout the kingdom— helping customers choose the right beans, the right machines, and even offering top-notch barista training. What brought you to Thailand, and why did you decide to stay? My business partner Andrew moved here first, and when I came in the early 90s to visit him I saw a lot of Western influence, but the coffee market was still pretty much just instant coffee. That was the beginning of my idea to start a small roasting business. Now I’ve been here 21 years and I’ve really fallen in love with Thailand, Thai culture, Thai people and Thai food, and I love living in this part of the world. Where do you like to drink coffee in the city? I will say, for transparency, that my answers will be biased to customers that we supply, like Dean & Deluca for example. I love drinking my coffee there and I also like their ambiance and design. We have a new customer called Holey Artisan Bakery, who just opened a new branch on Sukhumvit Soi 31, and they have the most unbelievable and amazing baked goods.

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and sharing that with customers. Since that time there have been many others offering a 3rd wave coffee experience, and finally those kinds of operations are arriving in Thailand. What do you think about Bangkok’s artisanal coffee scene? It’s great, and I’d like to see it expand a 100 times more than it is now. In fact, just about three years ago some of my friends in the industry got together and formed the ‘Specialty Coffee Association of Thailand’. It will help educate more consumers that there’s also something way beyond than your standard cup of coffee. What is important to you in a café, and what are some cafés doing better than others? I like shops that are offering other things besides espresso. One of our friends is a place called Gallery Drip and, in fact, they don’t even offer espresso, they only offer hand-poured coffees—which is a really great way to experience a single origin coffee. Cold brew is another way. We are helping some of our customers do cold brew, and we are going to be launching some interesting cold brew related solutions for our B2B customers in the near future. The coffee industry in Thailand has developed enormously in the last decade. Why do you think that is? What we have observed over the last 2-3 years in particular is what is referred to as “3rd wave coffee”. This movement gained traction about 10 years ago in the US, represented by three key companies: Counter Culture, Intelligentsia and Stumptown. Typically, it talks a lot about the supply chain—sharing the details of the green coffee, talking about the origin of the coffee and the history of the farm, and talking in detail about the roast profile

Where does CoffeeWorks source its beans from? Do you source beans from Thailand? We source coffee from all around the world, including Kenya and Tanzania, pretty much every coffee growing country in Central and South America, and Thailand. In fact, we were recognised last year by the American Chamber of Commerce in their CSR work ceremony for the funding development we’ve done with the hill tribe coffee growing in Northern Thailand. About ten years ago, we started funding better quality coffee, what we call natural pulped or honey processed coffee. How do you drink your coffee and what coffee maker do you use? Generally, I like espresso, or single origin drip coffee, or French press because then I can taste the coffee. I drink about 14 cups a day, as it’s one of the most antioxidant rich foods you can drink. But I never put in sugar, and rarely milk. When we are developing a new coffee I’ll try it in each different format and see what works best. www.coffeeworks.co.th bangkok101.com

CAFÉ CULTURE | favourite cafés

Coffee

“What’s your favourite café and why?” The same question, but many different answers SAMANTHA PROYRUNGTONG

Occupation: Founder of Extrovert, a Bangkok-based PR and digital marketing agency, and Vivin, a gourmet food company she runs with her partner Years in Bangkok: 10 Born in: Australia

WILL C. CORBIN

Occupation: Musician (various bands, including Jenny & The Scallywags) Years in Thailand: 6 years in Bangkok, 11 in Thailand Born in: United States “I’m a big fan of Holey Artisan Bakery. It’s a bakery on Sukhumvit Soi 31 (which is also near where I live). They have amazing bakery goods made fresh every day. The coffee is pretty damn good too, but admittedly the bread stuff is the reason I’m there so much. I usually order a latte and one of their ham and cheese croissants— literally the most amazing ham and cheese croissant I’ve ever had!”

“My favourite café, for a number of reasons, would be Phil Coffee Company. Firstly, because I believe in a certain level of cronyism—that you should support your closest friends—and the Wangs are a lovely Malay/Taiwanese family who are passionate about coffee and are always so hospitable. Apart from serving great coffee, Mama Wang sometimes offers us her family meals, like Nasi Goreng or Rendang. I’m still waiting for them to put these dishes on a menu (hint, hint!). Secondly, the coffee really is excellent. They select fine coffee beans from all over the globe, and roast them in their quaint townhouse café. They offer iced and hot lattes, cappuccinos, and Americanos, and various sweet cakes and pastries. What’s also cool about this place, but makes it difficult for others, is that it’s hidden quite well—in fact it’s damn near impossible to find. On Ekkamai Soi 61 look out for the small sign (across the street from Counting Sheep Corner) and follow the winding backstreet until you reach the dead end, which meets with a charming two-storey house with ample parking in front.”

TEK HARRINGTON

Occupation: Architect by day, DJ by night (Maggie Choo’s, Ce La Vi, and others) Born in: Bangkok, with a short 20-year stint in Northern England “I’ve been going to Roots since it was just a small rudimentary café on Ekkamai. My coffee drinking habit isn’t one which conjures up a relaxing affair; sitting down and drinking your coffee as you watch the world go by, maybe even partaking in some people-watching, isn’t my thing. Coffee to me is a habitual routine much like going for a morning piss—it serves a purpose and without it, my day wouldn’t be complete, or in this case wouldn’t get started. Roots at The Commons (Thonglor Soi 17) is perfect for me. It’s a short 10 minute drive from my condo, with a small little kiosk with attentive and efficient staff making it just the right choice for a “grab and go” visit. But the main reason I keep coming back, day-in day-out, is because of how intense, strong, and fistful-of-flavour their espressos are. If you like your espresso like a ‘roided up Gary Coleman— short, dark, and strong—then pop in and ask for an espresso to be made with the strongest bean they have. They usually have two different coffee beans to choose from.” 24 | SEP TEM BER 2016

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favourite cafés | CAFÉ CULTURE

RIKA DILA

Occupation: Accidental restaurateur (Surface Kitchen & Garden Lab, Cafe Chilli), currently a judge on The Face Thailand, Season 3 Years in Bangkok: 40… give or take Born in: Bangkok, but a true citizen of the world “The debate has always been American style coffee vs. European style coffee. Personally, I love my ‘New World’ (NW) coffee. A 20 oz. venti latte with lots of milk—it’s basically my breakfast and my therapy session. Plus in the US, or at least the NW, my latte comes with froth and amazing froth art. In Europe they think it’s a crime to have your coffee like that, and their coffee is way too strong for me as well. In Bangkok, I think most good coffee places are more European in outlook. Thus creating scenarios where I’ve had foot stomping outbursts in “hipster cool” coffee snob places when I order a latte and get basically a cafe au lait… no froth, plus it’s only the size of the palm of my hand! D’Ark (Sukhumvit Soi 49, and EmQuartier, 651 Sukhumvit Rd) most closely gives me the satisfaction of sitting in a very comfortable setting and having a great latte—not large but beggars can’t really be too choosy. Besides, the staff at both branches are way too nice to make me stomp my feet. Plus there’s the upside of having yummy ceviche and salads. And did I mention great tasting latte?”

JOE CUMMINGS

Occupation: Writer (Bangkok 101, among others), traveller, and musician Years in Bangkok: 20+ Born in: United States

TIM FOOTMAN

Occupation: Editor and writer (Thailand Tatler, CNN, Guardian, etc.) Years in Bangkok: 13 Born in: United Kingdom

“I recently re-discovered Kuppa (Sukhumvit Soi 16) after a long absence. When it opened in 1998, it was the first place in Bangkok to roast coffee beans on the premises. I was blown away the first time I walked in and saw the large roaster looming over the cafe. It was over a decade later before other places caught up. Besides the still-excellent bean selection, including eight singleorigin coffees, I like that you can order French press style. I enjoy the calm ambience, varied sitting areas, and cozy sofas, perfect for a long morning of caffeine-fixing. My favorite food on the menu is the port duck liver parfait.”

VINCENT SUNG

Occupation: Photographer, writer, content producer, and creative director Years in Bangkok: 6 years total in Thailand Born in: Korea (raised in Belgium) On my first visit to Jones The Grocer I marvelled at the familiar products I was missing from home—having grow up in Belgium and France. I could smell both the fresh coffee beans being freshly ground, and the coffee being served up by the talented barista. Later I got to chatting with the restaurant manager who also happened to be the owner. He was so humble that his title on his business card doesn’t actually say who he really is. I return here for breakfast whenever I miss European style breakfasts or brunch. They have all the dishes I crave from back home! bangkok101.com

“My favourite café would have to be Ceresia, in the Tisco Tower (Sathorn Rd). I like this branch of Ceresia for what it isn’t. It’s not a lame parody of a hipster dive in Williamsburg or Shoreditch, with self-consciously “artisanal” crap nailed to the walls. Instead, the minimal, faintly Nordic blonde-wood vibe means all the focus is on the coffee itself. There’s a revolving selection of beans, including some good Thai varieties, and I inevitably order whatever they’re recommending as a filter, black, strong, no interference. There are a few cakes but I rarely bother. Service is warm, polite and efficient but they don’t pretend to be your best friend. Nobody knows my name. And sometimes I like it that way.” SEP TEM BER 2016 | 25

CAFÉ CULTURE | café review

Dean & Deluca A taste of the Big Apple in Bangkok

elebrating its sixth year in Thailand, New York based Dean & Deluca has become one of the city’s favourite eateries and go-to marketplaces for gourmet food and quality products. With six stores in Bangkok—the flagship outlet being their stylish deli at MahaNakhon Cube Building at Chong Nonsi BTS station— they offer customers everything from mouth-watering meals and grocery goods, to an extensive selection of handcrafted coffee. Every cup is made with their special in-house blends, and while the namesake MahaNakhon Roast is used for black brews, their Bangkok Blend is matched with frothy milk and served with skillful latte art. These two blends, as well as many others, are sourced from local suppliers and also available for retail. If you are heading to D&D for brunch, there’s a number of all-day breakfast items to pair with your morning java fix, including a delicious plate of Espresso spiced seared tuna (B445), served with avocado, salsa, egg, and micro greens. As a light lunch or side dish, we were really impressed with the Spinach, roasted pumpkin and

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butternut squash salad (B175-350) which was tossed in a tasty olive oil and apple cider vinaigrette, and sprinkled with parmesan, thyme and toasted nuts. Alternatively, try one of their best-selling dishes—the Salmon teriyaki (B325). The seared fish filet is served with a flavourful teriyaki glaze and accompanied by heirloom carrots, shiitake mushrooms and grilled asparagus. For something heartier to accompany your afternoon coffee, we recommend the Tiger prawn fettuccini (B425). The house-made pasta is covered in refreshingly spicy cilantro lime pesto, with chilli, garlic, cashews, and organic sea caviar. It’s then topped with white marinated anchovy and two meaty black tiger prawns—a perfect balance of Thai and Italian cuisine. Meanwhile, meat lovers should definitely try the Red wine braised lamb shank (B495), drizzled with a demi-glaze and served with creamy potato dauphinoise, roasted tomatoes and green asparagus. Those with a sweet tooth will be spoilt for choice as the café offers a large selection of cakes, pastries and dessert options. As an after-dinner-

treat we shared the Banana nutty caramel sundae (B195), a concoction of vanilla ice-cream, caramel sauce, banana, waffle crisps, almond icing and a macaron on top. All these dishes we sampled at their MahaNakhon location are also available at their sixth and newest branch which recently opened at The Crystal shopping complex (GF, Crystal Veranda) on Ekamai-Ram Intra Road. While this outlet features a café, dining area, and a small retail section, its focus also extends to wine. Both an entire shelf on the back wall as well as a column in the centre of the restaurant display numerous bottles of red and whites, making for an extraordinary wine and dine experience. by Julia Offenberger

Dean & Deluca

MahaNakhon Cube Building GF, Cube Building 92 Narathiwas Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 023 1616 Open daily: 7am-11pm Other outlets: Central Embassy, EmQuartier, Park Ventures Ecoplex and Sathorn Square. www.deandeluca.com/thailand bangkok101.com

café review | CAFÉ CULTURE

Man Fu Yuan

Afternoon High Tea with a Dim Sum twist

here’s an overground movement happening in the international foodie scene—small bags of dried herbs are appearing in haunts where caffeine has long dominated. Now tired of bully brand giants and hipster corrupted cafes, teahouses are becoming a thing… again. The masterminds behind Singapore’s Man Fu Yuan teahouse recently opened Man Fu Yuan Kitchen on the 8th floor of Helix EmQuartier. This is their second, “more casual”, Bangkok branch (the other being their upscale venue at Rajpruek Golf Club Bangkok). For “high tea” rookies like myself, the magic traditionally happens between 2pm and 5pm where tea is the master, and dim sum the loyal disciples. It’s during this time that MFY offer their ‘High Tea’ promotion, consisting of a 2 Tier (B399) or 3 Tier (B599) dim sum stand—loaded with an assortment of savoury and sweet edibles—combined with tea. The range of tea here is rich, expansive, and deeply rooted in tea history and knowledge. Combine this with advancement in tea technology and flavour development and you have all the makings of a high tea revolution. The restaurant’s polished marble tables, all-white Colonial British interior, booth seating, and nostalgic Chinese pieces is a seamless integration of contemporary Hong Kong and old fashioned English tea room, with a touch of Ming Dynasty. It doesn’t impose itself enough to be a suit and high-hair only establishment, but a Sunday dress could easily blend in. We tried a variation of teas (hot and cold) and each one tells a different story. The Double Blossom is a flower tea—mild, softly sweet and highly aromatic—while the Pu-er is potent and earthy but strangely addictive, and the 5 Elements Blend, like the name suggests, takes you on a voyage of mineral, earth, wood, aroma, and spice. bangkok101.com

The dim sums accompaniments were arguably some of the best I’ve had in Bangkok, in quality and technicality. The Deep-fried chilli crab bun, and the Japanese sweet potato with custard lava, are both specimens of dim sum craftsmanship. From the main menu the World’s best radish cake with X.O. sauce (B150) was a culinary revelation—who knew radish could taste that good— and the classic Tea smoked duck (only B350!), with its intense smoky flavour and tenderness, is perhaps the ultimate drawcard. As Confucius said: “Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it”. For non-tea geeks it all might seem intimidating, but the beauty is

in discovering it for yourself—what works for your palate, your mood, your spirit. In short: “What will take me to another level?” And the good news is, city folk don’t have to skulk down Chinatown alleys to get their hit of the good herbal… it’s a BTS ride away. So venture into the mysterious new (old) world of Cantonese High Tea. You won’t regret it. by Samantha Proyrungtong

Man Fu Yuan

8F, Helix Quartier at EmQuartier 693,695 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 003 6240 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/manfuyuanbkk SEP TEM BER 2016 | 27

CAFÉ CULTURE | made in thailand

From Farm to Cup Elefin shares its passion for speciality Thai coffee By Julia Offenberger

rom Kenya and Tanzania to Nicaragua and Indonesia— when it comes to specialised cafés and coffee shops in Bangkok, internationally imported beans are well represented and often favoured over their local counterparts for various reasons. For starters, unlike rice or tapioca, coffee has never been an important crop for Thailand and, despite offering ideal conditions, growing the dark beans has never really been government funded or subsidized. This results not only in a much smaller production scale but also a lack of quality compared to coffee from many other countries. In order to prove that Thailand can also produce excellent quality coffee, some coffee shops have put their focus on sourcing local beans. One such shop is Elefin Coffee, a small Thai brand which offers customers 100 percent Thai Arabica coffee, among many other locally sourced and sustainable products, while paying respect to all the hands involved in the process—from farmers to consumers. This coffee shop “chain” is owned by Hansar Hotels & Resorts, and opened its first shop on Sukhumvit Soi 1 over ten years ago. Since then, it has moved to the Siam Museum and the Hansar Bangkok Hotel in Silom, and opened its most recent addition last February, close to Wat Pho in Bangkok’s Old Town. Their beans are sourced directly from hilltribe farmers— including the Akha and Lisu tribes—from a village close to Chiang Rai in northern Thailand. Because the beans are grown in high altitude areas, they are less acidic and bitter, resulting in a more nuanced flavour and smoother taste. While one tribe focuses on the cultivation, the other is responsible for the processing and ploughing of the beans. Through regular visits and continuous conversations, Elefin has established a close relationship with 28 | SEP TEM BER 2016

the farmers. By ensuring that they receive fair compensation for each harvest, Elefin not only supports the local communities, but also builds the foundation for producing the highest quality coffee. As part of the next step in the farm-to-cup process, the beans are then roasted in small batches right here in Bangkok. While living in the US, the owners of Elefin met Seattle-based coffee visionary Ed Leebrick from Lighthouse Roasters. Internationally known and recognized as one of the best coffee roasters in the world, he shared his expertise and assisted in the development of the business for over fifteen years. To make sure the coffee is processed with consistent results, he visits Thailand himself, or sends baristas to regularly check the roast, quality, and even train the staff. Another priority, designed to offer customers the best experience possible, is the “freshness” of the coffee. While at other cafés the coffee might be kept for use for up to three months, the beans at Elefin are never older than one week, meaning the coffee is brewed at its peak of flavour. This same rule applies to their beans available for retail, in the form of Japanese-style drip coffee, as well as espresso beans.

Elefin’s commitment to sourcing local and quality products doesn’t stop at coffee–it is mirrored throughout their entire identity. Their menu offers a selection of traditional Thai dishes, including somtam, pad thai and khao soi, as well as different pastries and cakes, with most produce sourced from organic farms. For the full experience, even some of their ceramics are bought locally, at places like Chatuchak Market. “We might pay a higher price, but the quality is important to us,” explains Rasmus Poll, Assistant F&B Manager at Hansar Hotels & Resorts. After more than ten successful years, it’s safe to say that their efforts of offering customers a fully Thai experience have been well received. However, in Rasmus’ opinion “the best is yet to come”. And, in order to pursue their mission, they are always on the lookout for new things to expand the Elefin brand, such as their new cold brew coffee and juices.

Elefin Coffee

Hansar Bangkok Hotel 3/250, Mahadlekluang 2, Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 209 1234 Open daily: 7am-midnight www.elefincoffee.com bangkok101.com

making merit | CAFÉ CULTURE

MiVana Organic Coffee Eco-friendly growing techniques save watershed forests By Pawika Jansamakao

offee has long been a morning essential for Western nations, and as the trend takes firm hold in Bangkok—and across Thailand—a staggering number of coffee shops have opened up on every corner across the city over the past few years. In turn, the high demand for coffee beans has led to coffee plantations and related businesses expanding in many provinces throughout Thailand. Unfortunately, however, most of the time these new and/or expanded plantations irresponsibly encroach upon forests and other natural resources. In fact, large-scale deforestation for coffee plantations in southern and northern Thailand has been affecting global environmental conditions for over a decade. This concern over environmental deterioration led to the founding of Green Net SE Ltd, a social enterprise that grows and distributes true organic Arabica coffee, a crop grown without any negative impact on humans or nature. MiVana is an organic coffee brand distributed by Green Net SE, in cooperation with the respected conservation network Green Net Foundation. Theerasit Amornsaensuk, managing director of Green Net SE, explains that the campaign’s objective is to provide coffee farmers with an adequate knowledge of environmentally friendly growing techniques, and encourage them bangkok101.com

not to deforest or use chemical agricultural products. The first project began in 2010, with families living in watershed forests in Mae Lao, Chiang Rai, and has expanded to other communities over the years.

Communities residing in watershed forests in Mae Lao, Mae Saruay, and Mae Korn districts are introduced to the concept of “shade-grown” coffee plantations as an alternative to growing crops such as passion fruit, in which the farmers are obligated to chop down trees to provide the required amount of sunlight. Northern Thailand has a perfect ecosystem to grow Arabica coffee because this kind of plant

requires at least 50 percent or more of shaded growing conditions in order to develop quality beans—therefore big trees don’t have to be cut down. Besides this, the volcanic soil in Chiang Rai is fertile enough to grow coffee without adding chemical fertilizer. Quality seeds are selected by an expert to ensure the most effective result, and are given to famers to grow on their own farms. After harvesting, the coffee beans are extracted within 24 hours—to preserve their freshness—and carefully roasted by roasters with SCAE (Specialty Coffee Association of Europe) training to ensure the highest international standards of quality. MiVana encourages farming communities to set up their coffee plantations in the shade of existing forests in order to preserve and improve the condition of watershed forests in the north. In addition, fair trade policy ensures that participating families are compensated with a fair price for their products, and also provided with additional funding for community development activities. MiVana is not only contributing to the long-term economic health of farmers and local communities in rural Thailand, but also promoting sustainable use of the region’s precious natural resources. www.mivana.co.th SEP TEM BER 2016 | 29

CAFÉ LISTINGS | by neighbourhood

Newly opened since 2015 Ann’s Sweet

ARI Casa Lapin X Ari

Noble Reform Condo 8, Phahonyothin Soi 7 081 261 2040 | 7am-10pm facebook.com/CasaLapin Other Casa Lapin outlets: 120/6, Sukhumvit Soi 49 081 257 7920 | 8:30am-5pm 51, Sukhumvit Soi 26 02 200 5546 | 8:30am-10pm 888/64 Ploenchit Rd 091 879 3285 | 7am-9pm GMM Building, Sukhumvit Soi 23 096 831 4161 | 7am-10pm

Kaffe by Library Ari

Noble Space 8/2, Phahonyothin Soi 7 081 639 0802 | 9:30am-8:30pm facebook.com/librarycafe

Laliart Coffee

20, Soi Ari 2, Phahonyothin Soi 7 089 142 8203 | Tue-Sun, 10am-7pm facebook.com/Laliartcoffee

Panary Cafe

Noble Reform Condo 8/1, Phahonyothin Soi 7 02 116 6889 | 11am-9pm facebook.com/panarycafe

Porcupine Café

48, Phahonyothin Soi 7 086 889 9210 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/porcupineari

Puritan

50/5, Soi Ari 5 02 357 1099 | Tues-Fri,1pm-10pm, Sat-Sun, 11am-10pm facebook.com/Puritan.cafe

Sutdrip

128/10, Phahonyothin Soi 2 087 907 0099 | 9am-5pm facebook.com/sutdrip

OLD TOWN Aluco Café

183 Suan Chitlada Dusit 098 923 2322 | Mon-Fri, 6:30am-6:30pm, Sat 10am-7pm facebook.com/Alucocafe 30 | SEP TEM BER 2016

138 Phra Athit Rd. 086 889 1383 | 11am-8pm facebook.com/page.annsweet

Café Velodome

Thammasat University, 12 Prachan Rd. 02 623 6340 | 8am-8pm facebook.com/CafeVelodome

Double Dogs

406 Yaowarat Rd. 086 329 3075 | Tue-Thu, 1pm-9pm, Fri-Sun, 1pm-10pm facebook.com/DoubleDogsTeaRoom

Eiah Sae

103-105 Yaowarat Rd. 097 242 2870 | 6am-10pm www.eiahsaecoffee.com

Elefin Coffee

4 Sanam Chai Rd. 085 074 4405 | Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm www.elefincoffee.com Other Elefin Coffee outlets: Hansar Hotel Bangkok 3/250, Mahadlekluang 2, Ratchadamri Rd. 02 209 1234 | 7 am-12 am Wat Poh, 394 / 1-2 Maharaj Rd. 02 622 1115 | 8 am-8 pm

Farm to Table, Organic Café 179 Atsadang Rd., Wang Burapha Phirom 02 115 2625 | 10am-8pm facebook.com/FarmToTableOrganicCafe Other Farm to Table outlets: Farm to Table, Hideout 15 Soi Tha Klang 02 004 8771 | Thu-Tue, 10am-9pm

Favour Café

Tha Mahara Community Mall 1/11 Maharaj Rd. 099 256 4659 | 10am-9pm facebook.com/favourcafe

Happy Espresso

295-297 Mit Phan Rd. 02 221 6099 | 9:30am-5pm facebook.com/superhappyespresso

Hook Board Game Cafe Happio Building, 74 Phra Athit Rd. 086 367 6071 | Tue-Sun, 10am-9pm facebook.com/hookcafe

Jaywalk Cafe

90 Phra Athit Rd. 086 061 7000 | 8am-6pm facebook.com/jaywalkcafe

Other Jaywalk Cafe outlets: Cocowalk (Phaya Thai Rd.) 092 596 6022 | 10am-9pm

Kopi Hya Tai Kee

78/4 Prachathipatai Rd. (next to Giant Swing) 02 621 0828 | 7am-8:30pm Other Kopi Hya Tai Kee outlets: 526 Phra Sumen Rd. 02 629 0646 | 7am-8pm

Mitramit Teahouse

32 Phra Sumen Rd. 02 126 6567 | Sat-Thu, 2pm-11pm facebook.com/mitramitteahouse

On Lok Yun

72 Charoenkrung Rd. 02 223 9621 | 5:30am-4pm

SATHORN-SILOM Alphabet Café & Bar

198, Soi Pipat 2, Narathivas Rd. 084 432 1758 | 6am-2am facebook.com/alphabetcafeandbar

Cafe Neighbour

466/23 Suan Phlu Rd. 089 767 3720 | Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm, Sat-Sun, 10am-5pm facebook.com/cafeneighboratbkk

Dean & Deluca

GF, The Cube Mahanakhon Building 02 023 1616 | 7am-11pm deandeluca.co.th Other Dean & Deluca outlets: Sathorn Square, Naradiwas Rd. 02 108 1208 | 7am-10:30pm Park Ventures, 57 Wireless Rd. 02 108 2200 | 9am-8pm Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd. 02 160 5956 | 10am-10pm EmQuartier, 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 261 0464 | 10am-10pm

Dexter Café and Bar 56, Sathorn Soi 8 (Soi Pipat) North Sathorn Rd. 02 636 6222 | 9am-11pm www.dextercafe.com

Everyday Karmakamet 1F, Yada Building, Silom Rd. 02 371 148 | Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat-Sun, 11am-10pm www.everydaykmkm.com

bangkok101.com

by neighbourhood | CAFÉ LISTINGS

Flair The Espresso Bar

Thaniya Plaza, 52 Silom Rd. 095 245 4942 | Mon-Fri, 7:30am-6pm, Sat-Sun, 10am-6pm facebook.com/flairbkk

I Am Coffee

44/1, Pipat Soi 2, Sathon Rd. 098 874 5874 | 7am-6pm facebook.com/iamcoffee.sathon8

Luka Bangkok

Size S Coffee & Bakery

5/25 Soi Ngam Du Phli 02 286 6117 | Mon-Sat, 7:30am-6pm facebook.com/SizeScafe

Slow Café by Room 111 399/5, Silom Soi 7 095 595 4694 | 10:30am-7pm www.room111.co

Tentacles

64 Pan Rd. 02 637 8558 | Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-7pm www.lukabangkok.com

2198/10-11 Soi Naradiwas 22 061 941 6555 | Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm, Sat-Sun, 10am-10pm www.tentaclesgallery.com

Rocket Coffeebar

Too Fast To Sleep

149, Sathorn Soi 12 02 635 0404 | 7am-9pm www.rocketcoffeebar.com Other Rocket Coffeebar outlets: Central Embassy 1031 Ploenchit Rd. 02 635 0404 | 7am-8pm 21/13, Sukhumvit Soi 49 02 662 6638 | 7am-11pm 72, Sukhumvit Soi 55 02 392 7635 | 7am-10pm

762 Rama IV Rd. 086 300 9955 | daily 24 hours facebook.com/toofasttosleep

LOWER SUKHUMVIT 39 Espresso

665, Sukhumvit Soi 39 086 393 6762 | 7am-5pm facebook.com/39espresso

April Story

3F, Habito Mall 45/19 Sukhumvit Soi 77 097 979 6495 | 9am-8pm facebook.com/aprilstorycafe

Artis

390/20, Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 18 02 262 0760 | 6:30am-7pm facebook.com/artisbangkok

Brekkie

6/9, Soi Prom Sri 1, Sukhumvit Soi 39 083 656 6141 | Tue-Thu, 11am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 11am-11pm www.brekkiebangkok.com

Baker Gonna Bake

GF, K Village Sukhumvit Soi 26 092 651 6463 | 8am-10pm facebook.com/Bakergonnabakecafe

Café Claire

Oriental Residence 110 Wireless Rd. 02 125 9000 | 6am-10:30pm www.oriental-residence.com/cafeclaire

CAFÉ LISTINGS | by neighbourhood

Cafe Little Spoon

Karmakamet Diner

Ceresia Coffee Roasters

Kiosk Cafe

165/5-6, Sukhumvit 21 087 983 9001 | Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm facebook.com/cafelittlespoon

593/29-41, Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 086 843 8235 | Tue-Sun, 8am-6pm facebook: Ceresia Coffee Roasters Other Ceresia outlets: Tisco Tower, 48/2 Sathorn Rd. 098 251 4327 | 8am-6pm

Chu

2F, Exchange Tower 388 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 663 4554 | Mon-Fri, 7:30am-9pm, Sat-Sun, 8am-9pm www.facebook.com/CHU.BKK Other Chu outlets: Trinity Complex, 150 Pipat Rd. 02 636 8685 | Tue-Fri, 7:30am-9pm, Sat-Sun, 8am-9pm

CoffeeWorks

100/68, Sukhumvit Soi 26 02 425 1395 | Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm www.coffeeworks.co.th

Doi Chaang Coffee 5/1-3, Sukhumvit Soi 12 02 653 4311 | 8am-7pm www.doichaangcoffee.com

Fauchon

GF EmQuartier 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 003 6033 | 10am-10pm www.fauchon.co.th

Hello Strangers

30/1 Soi Metheenivet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) 02 262 0700 | 10am-11:30pm facebook.com/karmakamet

The Barkyard 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 02 259 4089 | Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com Other Kiosk Cafe outlets: 3F, Siam Square One, 338 Rama Rd. 02 115 1375 | 10am-9pm

Kuppadeli

Sora City

219/1A, Sukhumvit 21 02 664 2350 | 7am-9 pm www.kuppadeli.com Other Kuppadeli outlets: 4F, The Emporium 662 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 664 9959 | 10am-10pm LG, Floor, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ploenchit Rd. 02 250 7705 | 8am-10pm 4F, Centerpoint of Siam Square, 292 Rama I Rd. 02 018 9655 | 8am-9pm 2F, The Residence On Thonglor, Sukhumvit 55 02 185 1555 | 6am-11pm

La Baguette French Bakery GF, EmQuartier 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 003 6420 | 10am-10pm www.labaguettepattaya.com

Holey Artisan Bakery

Pacamara

27/1, Sukhumvit Soi 33 081 753 3324 | 10am-8:30pm facebook.com/jaiyencafe

Jones the Grocer

EmQuartier 637 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 261 0382 | 10am-11pm facebook.com/jonesthegrocerthailand 32 | SEP T EM BER 2016

Mahatun Plaza 888/18 Phloenchit Rd. 02 264 6542 | 7am-6pm facebook.com/radicatering

Serendib Tea Room

39, Sukhumvit Soi 16 02 663 0450 | Mon-Fri, 8:30am-6:30pm www.kuppa.co.th

Li-Bra-Ry Cafe

Jaiyen Cafe

Radi Grab & Go

Kuppa

61/45, Sukhumvit Soi 26 090 994 8760 | Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm, Sat-Sun, 10am-8pm facebook.com/hellostrangerscafe

245/2, Sukhumvit Soi 31 091 720 1074 | Tue-Sun, 7am-5pm facebook.com/holeybreadbkk

Other Paul outlets: The Emporium 622 Sukhumvit Rd. 10am-10pm Central World, 999/9 Rama I Rd. 10am-10pm Empire Tower, 195 South Sathorn Rd. Mon-Fri 7am-8pm, Sat 9am-5pm

2 Soi Metheenivet, Sukhumvit Soi 24 02 259 2878 | 10am-9pm facebook.com/librarycafe

2F, Rain Hill Community Mall 841/11 Sukhumvit Soi 47 02 261 7830 | 10am-9:30pm facebook.com/pacamaracoffee

Parden

2F, The Manor, 32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 02 204 2205 | Tue-Sun, 11am-5:45pm facebook.com/Parden.Bangkok

Paul

Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd. 02 001 5160 | 8:30am-10pm facebook.com/paul1889.thailand

120/24, Sukhumvit Soi 23 02 115 2144 | 11am-7pm facebook.com/serendibtearoom

61/52, Soi Sukhumvit 26 02 001 6600 | Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat-Sun, 9am-8pm www.soracity.bike

Tinpresso

341/1, Wachiratham Sathit 21, Sukhumvit Soi 101/1 08 1636 9531 | 9:30am-6pm facebook.com/tinpresso

Toby’s

68/1, Sukhumvit Soi 38 02 712 1774 | Tue-Sun, 9am-6pm facebook.com/tobysk38

Wonderwall The Kaffebar Avora 31 Residence, 28, Sukhumvit Soi 31 02 108 7575 | Mon-Sun, 7:30am-7pm facebook.com/wkaffebar Other Wonderwall outlets: A Square, 120, Sukhumvit Soi 26 099 424 6592 | Mon-Sun, 7:30am-7pm

THONG LO-EKKAMAI Beeston Cafe

1/3-4, Ekkamai Soi 2, Sukhumvit Soi 63 097 037 2398 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/beestoncafe

Big Knit Cafe

The Natural Park Bldg, 88, Sukhumvit Soi 49 02 260 5050 | 9am-9pm www.bigknit49.com

Cafe d’La Fleur

Fifty Fifth Plaza, Soi Thong Lo 2 081 495 1783 | 9am-9pm bangkok101.com

by neighbourhood | CAFÉ LISTINGS

D’Ark

Piman 49, 48/1, Sukhumvit Soi 49 02 662 7900 | 8am-10pm www.darkoffee.com Other D’Ark outlets: EmQuartier, 651 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 269 1000 | Sun-Thu, 10am-10pm, Fri-Sat, 10am-11pm

Elmar Offwhite Café 50/5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 099 194 6169 | 11am-10pm facebook.com/elmarcoffee

Ekkamai Macchiato

6/2, Ekkamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 63 083 785 9090 | Mon, Wed-Fri, 8am-7pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-8pm facebook.com/ekkamaimac

Fill In The Blank

28/10, Sukhumvit Soi 61 094 556 2920 | 10am-8pm facebook.com/fillintheblank.decor

Hands and Heart

Ascella Condominium, 33, Sukhumvit Soi 38 081 442 7977 | 7am-9pm facebook.com/handsandheartcoffee

Other Hands and Heart outlets: Siam Square Soi 8 081 442 7977 | 10am-8 pm

Ink & Lion Café

Nikko Cafe

30/18 Soi Charoen Chai, Ekkamai Soi 12 02 381 5291 | 10am-11:50pm www.nikkocafe.com

1/7, Soi Ekkamai 2 Sukhumvit 63 02 002 6874 | Mon-Tue, 9 am-6 pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-6 pm facebook.com/inkandlioncafe

One Ounce For Onion

Kaizen Coffee Co.

Peace Oriental Teahouse

Mocking Tales

Petite Cafe x Liberty Area One

Tai Ping Tower 582/5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 098 831 6009 | 7am-7pm facebook.com/kaizencoffeeco

The Maze 148, Thong Lo Soi 4 Sukhumvit Rd. 083 386 6992 | 11am-1am facebook.com/mockingtales

Munch

GF, Mugendai Honten Thong Lo 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 02 381 4711 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/munchbkk

19/12, Ekkamai Soi 12 02 046 6885 | Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-8pm facebook.com/oneounceforonion

70/5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 097 267 2626 | Sun-Thu, 10am-8:30pm, Fri-Sat, 10am-11pm www.peaceteahouse.com

2F, Ekamai Mall 3, Ekkamai Soi 10 090 972 8017 | Tue-Sun, 11am-10pm facebook.com/BKKPetite

Phil Coffee Company 21, Sukhumvit Soi 61 02 001 5850 | Tue-Sat, 9am-6pm, Sun, 10am-5:30pm www.philscoffeecompany.com

CAFÉ LISTINGS | by neighbourhood

Roast

The Commons, 335, Thong Lo Soi 17 02 185 2865 | Mon-Thu, 10am-11pm, Fri-Sun, 9am-11pm www.roastbkk.com Other Roast Café outlets: 1F, The Helix Quartier, EmQuartier 094 176 3870 | 10am-10pm

Tealily Cafe

Sukhumvit Soi 39, Soi Prommit 02 019 8287 | Thu-Tue, 9:30am-6:30pm facebook.com/tealilycafe

Tiny Cup Cafe

457-457/6, Sukhumvit Soi 55 02 712 5112 | 7am-7pm facebook.com/TinyCupBKK

Thinkin’ Outside The Fox

461/3, Soi Thong Lo 14, Sukhumvit Soi 55 02 390 2847 | Tue-Sun, 12pm-8pm facebook.com/ThinkinOutsideTheFox

The Coffee Club

1239 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 381 2736 | 7am-11pm facebook.com/thecoffeeclubthailand Other The Coffee Club outlets: Soi Convent, Silom Rd. 098 250 9047 | 7am-11pm The Hive, Piman Sukhumvit Soi 49 098 250 9042 | Sun-Thu, 6:30am-10pm, Fri-Sat, 6:30am-11:30pm The Maze, Sukhumvit Soi 55 098 250 9051 | Sun-Thu, 6:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sat, 6:30am-11:30pm

Vanilla Garden

April Store

Kay’s Boutique Breakfast

Cafe At Ease

Once Cafe

Café de Norasingha

Quest Connaisseur Café

U Center, Chula Soi 42 (MRT Sam Yan) 097 979 6495 | Mon-Fri, 7:45am-7pm, Sat-Sun, 8:45am-6pm facebook.com/aprilstorebangkok

38/1, Soi Kasemson 2 087 799 0781 | 8:30am-6:30pm facebook.com/cafeateasebangkok

Phaya Thai Palace 315 Ratchawithi Rd. 02 354 8376 | 8am-7pm www.phyathaipalace.org

Café Now

Think Cafe

112/4, Soi Sri Ayutthaya 2, Rangnam Rd. 088 399 9699 | Mon, Wed-Fri, 10am-8pm, Sat-Sun, 9am-9pm facebook.com/chibichibicafe Other Chibi Chibi outlets: 339 Oasis Building, Silom Soi 3, Silom Rd. 088 399 9699 | 7:30am-4:30pm

Another Hound

1F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama I Rd. 02 129 4409 | 10am-11pm www.anotherhoundcafe.com 34 | SEP TEM BER 2016

1F, Siam Center, 979 Rama I Rd. 02 658 1557 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/thinkcafesiamcenter

AFTERNOON HIGH TEA

Di Cafe by Monomer

1823 Tea Lounge by Ronnefeldt

Factory Cafe & Brew Bar

Authors’ Lounge

486/151, Soi Phetchaburi16 099 261 2261 | Mon-Fri, 7:30am-9pm, Sat-Sun, 8:30am-8pm facebook.com/DiCafeByMonomer

Gallery Drip Coffee

SIAM-PHAYATHAI

Simply W

Chibi Chibi-Cafe & Atelier

Warm Wood Café

77 Baan Ekkamai, Ekkamai Soi 21 02 660 4349 | Wed-Fri, 12pm-9pm, Sat-Sun, 10:30am-9pm facebook.com/wwa.bangkok

130/32 Phaya Thai Rd. 02 612 1442 | 6am-10pm facebook.com/questcafebkk

2F, Central World 999/9 Rama I Rd. 02 646 1523 | 10am-10pm www.simplywcafe.com

53, Ekkamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 63 02 381 6120 | 11am-11pm www.vanillaindustry.com

WWA Cafe x Chooseless

Siam Square Soi 2 084 777 7322 | 12pm-9pm www.oncecafe.com

Creative Lab, 3F Siam Discovery 063 613 8563 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/cafenowbypropaganda

35/18 Phayathai Rd. 085 145 4184 | Mon-Sat, 9am-7:30pm, Sun, 10am-4pm facebook.com/factoryespressobar

137/1, Thong Lo Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 02 714 9974 | Tue-Sun, 9am-1am facebook.com/warmwoodcafe

116/55-57 Soi Ruamchit, Rangnam Rd. 02 245 1953 | Mon, 6:30am-12pm, Tue-Sun, 6:30am-4pm www.kaysbangkok.co

1F, Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) 939 Rama I Rd. 081 917 2131 | Tues-Sun, 11am-9pm facebook.com/GalleryDripCoffee

High Thyme

3F, I’m Park Chula 353, Chula Soi 5 02 214 4221 | Mon-Fri, 11am-12am, Sat-Sun, 10am-12am facebook.com/HighThyme

I+D Style Cafe X Brave Roasters 3F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd. 080 046 6885 | 10am-10pm facebook.com/braveroasters

GF, Gaysorn Plaza 999 Phloen Chit Rd. 02 656 1086 | 12pm-6pm facebook.com/1823tealoungebyronnefeldtbkk

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Avenue 02 659 9000 | 12pm-6pm www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok

Erawan Tea Room

Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Rajadamri Rd. 02 254 1234 | 2:30pm-6pm bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

Man Fu Yuan

8F, EmQuartier, 693-695 Sukhumvit Rd. 02 003 6240 | 2pm-5pm facebook.com/manfuyuanbkk

Sapphire Bar

The Sukosol Bangkok, 477 Si Ayuthaya Rd. 02 247 0123 | 2pm-5pm www.thesukosol.com

For a more complete listing of Bangkok’s best cafés, visit: www.bangkok101.com bangkok101.com

SNAPSHOTS | insight

Mural painting, with a European on horseback, from Wat Khongkharam, Ratchaburi

Japanese ceramic bowl depicting European traders 36 | SEP TEM BER 2016

bangkok101.com

insight | SNAPSHOTS

On Farangs and Foreigners

s author Rudyard Kipling wrote in his poem The Ballad of East and West: “Oh, East is East and West is West, and never the twain shall meet.” Unfortunately, Mr. Kipling didn’t get to live in the globalized world where people in the digital age meet and mingle as the twain connect and crisscross in all directions. But how did East first meet West in Thailand, and what have been the outcomes from these encounters? Thais have always been fascinated by foreigners and all exotic things— whether they come from near or far. The word “wilas” was used to describe all things European before the word “farang” came about. Both words refer to foreign people and things from the West. Farang either originated from firangi in Hindi, or farangi in Persian, meaning the “Franks”, or Europeans. The term also spread into China as folangji, referring to the Portuguese and their breechloading swivel guns. To most Thais the word farang is not derogatory or offensive, and is only a descriptive term that can be used for anything Western—from Caucasian persons, to European food, art, and architecture.

Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com

Over 500 years ago the Portuguese were the first farangs who arrived on the Siamese shores. They mainly came here to trade and to propagate Christianity. Hence the evidences of Portuguese churches, dating back to the Ayutthaya Period, are found along the waterways. They were also the first to be granted a piece of land on the Chao Phraya River’s bank to build an embassy in Bangkok. The Portuguese legacy not only appears in diplomatic ties and religious proliferations, but also in linguistic and culinary influences. As Ayutthaya was a cosmopolitan city in its heyday, the Dutch, Danes, French, and British also came to trade and established diplomatic connections with Siam. Among these, the most celebrated events would be the exchange of diplomatic missions between Siam and France during the reigns of King Narai and King Louis XIV in the 1680s. Alexandre, Chevalier de Chaumont, was the first French ambassador who arrived at the King Narai’s palace in Lopburi in 1685, while Kosa Pan or Chao Phraya Kosathibodi was enthusiastically received at the Versailles in 1686. However, de Chaumont tried to convert the King to Catholicism without success. Through the 19th century, Siam was much coveted by European colonial powers. How a little country like Siam survived and remained independent from the colonialism is unique. Despite the treaties made with Siam, both England and France pursued imperialist policies and encroached upon the territories. As a buffer between these empires, Siam had to relinquish parts of Burma, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Malaysia to these two powers to protect its sovereignty. With the policy of maintaining national independence, our enlightened monarchs, King Monkut (Rama IV) and his successor King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), applied both diplomatic negotiation and modernization along Western lines. Having studied with Anna Leonowens, the royal governess who made Siam famous in the fictionalized

book Anna and the King of Siam (sourcebook for the musical The King and I), King Rama V got to know Europe and its royalty in person on his royal visits. He established relations and exchanged envoys between Siam and various European countries, especially with the Emperors of Russia and Germany. He brought not only Western ideas to Siam but also specialists in various branches of knowledge, such as lawyers, diplomats, economists, engineers, architects, artists, and craftsmen. Without these European architects and artists, many of the beautiful buildings, palaces, and villas around Thailand would not exist. Thanks to artists like Corrado Ferroci, a sculptor from Florence, who taught at the Fine Arts Department of the Ministry of Palace Affairs in 1923, we have Thai modern art. He was thus considered its “father” and received a Thai name, Silpa Bhirasri. Nowadays farangs come to Thailand in droves. Some think that Thais have prejudices against them or preconceived notions, such as farangs are always likely to be rich. But I think the prejudices on both sides are due to cultural and social differences and misunderstandings. Many farangs are married to Thais, but have yet to learn fully about their spouse’s culture and language. Fluency in Thai language may be hard to achieve but many outsiders have mastered it, including Frère Hilaire, who taught at the Assumption College and wrote Thai textbooks and poems. Although Thais take pride in our culture, we have a strange trait when we adapt foreign influences. We tend to keep certain bits that we like and discard the rest, whether it is the core value or just the superficial part. So nowadays we warmly adapt many farang things, such as working in multinational companies, using English words sporadically, enjoying Westernstyle clothing, food, and music, and even celebrating Christmas—all without being farang. Cultures may clash, but when they become lifestyles they merge. SEP TEM BER 2016 | 37

SNAPSHOTS | highlight

A Night in the Lives of the Corpse Collectors

In this excerpt from his book Bizarre Thailand, author Jim Algie spends a frenzied night on the blood-slicked streets of Bangkok, rounding up the bodies of the city’s most unfortunate souls.

oh Teck Tung pulls in millions of baht in donations every year. Donating to the organisation is good karma, says the videographer, who asked not to be named as we weave through Friday night traffic, because they help to rush the injured to the hospital and take the dead to the morgue. They also arrange coffins and funerals for the poor. If nobody claims the body, they bury the remains at their cemetery in Samut Prakan province. Every few years, dozens of volunteers help to unearth and burn the bones of thousands of corpses in a mass cremation ceremony. The foundation’s rescue work on the blood-slicked streets of Bangkok has been documented by National Geographic TV, the BBC and CNN. When the latter network attempted

38 | SEP TEM BER 2016

to follow them around one night, their van crashed and Poh Teck Tung had to come to their rescue, the videographer says with a smug grin. It’s an apt warning for the kind of driving these speed demons do. When saving a life is a matter of minutes, speed is of the essence. A call comes in on the radio, he guns the gas and we’re off, bulleting down the road like a getaway car. The speedometer needle, glowing green, creeps up... 40, 55, 80, 100. He’s too busy passing cars to talk now. And we have no idea what the emergency is. Snapshot memories whizz by like the cars and lights. In 1997, I interviewed the photographer Philip Blenkinsop about his grisly collection of black-and-white photos, The Cars That Ate Bangkok. Many were taken

when he travelled around with Poh Teck Tung for a few weeks. The book is a horror-monger’s gallery of bodies lying in the street, surrounded by chalk-line skeletons and rivulets of blood, and close-ups of pulped faces. The cover shows a bloody hand hanging from the bonnet of a car, making it look as if the person has been eaten alive by what Philip refers to in the text as a ‘petrol-powered beast’. In reference to this image, the Australian photographer— who went on to win the World Press Photo Award and many others—told me, “An old woman was crossing the highway outside Bangkok when she was cut in half by a car, which was abandoned by the side of the road after the driver fled the scene. Her hand was left on the bonnet. It was unbelievably depressing.” bangkok101.com

highlight | SNAPSHOTS His experiences with them had driven home the fact—and the fear—that road accidents are the leading cause of death in Thailand: an average of two people die on the roads every hour. It has one of the highest rates of traffic fatalities in the world. More tourists and expats die or are injured in road accidents than by any other means. “It was crazy, driving at 160 kilometres an hour on a Friday night, trying to beat other body-snatchers to the cadaver. Thais won’t get out of the way for an ambulance, but they will for Poh Teck Tung, so we’d often get to the accident before the police. One night I was in the back of the van with three dead bodies rolling up against me every time it turned. We’d picked up one of them from a hospital and he’d already been dead for a few days. The stench was terrible,” he said. Near a footbridge on a busy road out in some industrial suburb of Bangkok, we pull over behind a fleet of Poh Teck Tung rescue vehicles. Staff members are running towards the bridge, jogging up the stairs. A policemen stringing yellow crimescene tape across the top of the stairs lets us pass. Then we see the body: young, male, Thai, laying on his back. The glare of orange street lights lends the scene a hellish tint. Whether he was shot in the forehead or hit with something heavy

Bizarre

Thailand

Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the non-fiction collection, Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic (2010) and On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Twin Tales of Rock ‘n’ Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway (2016). Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com

like a crescent wrench, nobody’s sure. For once, there’s none of that Thai cheeriness. The mood is somber, voices drowned out by the drone and din of traffic. Speculation runs rife that it might be a drug- related killing, or possibly a mugging—common on footbridges— gone violently wrong. The dead man, in his faded T-shirt and rubber flip-flops, may have lost his life for a few hundred baht? A few members of Poh Teck Tung kneel down beside the corpse, pointing at the fatal wound, while a crime photographer from the police propaganda magazine, 191 (the emergency line in Thailand), takes some blood money snaps. A few of the cops standing by look lost in troubled thoughts, as if thinking, Who’s going to have to tell his family? That first murder scene of the night is still tattooed in my memory. The young man lying there on his back. the wound on his forehead. The cheap flip-flops. The hellfire orange of the street lights above the footbridge. Who was he? Who murdered him? Will there even be an investigation into his death? Will any relatives claim his body? The staff and volunteers of Poh Teck Tung live with these agonising questions every night. I tell the videographer that the best thing

about most jobs is that you can go home and forget about them. He smiles sadly and says that’s not the case with his work. “We’ve saved a lot of people but the cases that haunt you are all the dead souls. One night we got called to the scene of a school bus crash a few hours outside Bangkok... absolutely horrific. Body parts were scattered everywhere and these kids were only nine or ten. “When I was walking around the bus, this little girl who I thought was dead stood up and came staggering towards me. For a few seconds I thought I was actually seeing a ghost. But she only took about six or seven steps before blood began pouring out of her mouth and down the front of her school uniform. Then she fell straight on her face. By the time I checked her pulse, she was already dead.” Headlights flicker across the videographer’s face. A face rutted and potholed. A face that’s seen too many murders, catastrophes and the drinking binges that provide some short-term amnesia. He looks a decade older than his 50 years. “That accident happened almost a decade ago, but it still gives me nightmares sometimes. It’s still so fresh in my mind that it could have happened tonight.”

This tale and many others come from the author of Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Sex, Crime and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourist attractions.

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SNAPSHOTS | highlight

The former Customs House

Old Customs Die Hard

Neo-Classical princess languishes by the river, awaiting the kiss of life By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

or local photographers, it’s a semi-secret spot for fashion shoots and album covers. For real estate developers, it’s the dream project of a lifetime. And for the Bangkok Metropolitan Authority, it’s an eyesore which barely escapes being condemned and barricaded. The former Customs House, a set of three grand Neo-Palladian buildings facing the Chao Phraya River at the end of Charoen Krung Soi 36, was built in 1888 to collect import and export duties on all goods coming in or out of Siam by ship. The Siamese Treasury chose the location because it was next to the French embassy (now the French ambassador’s residence), and very close to the Oriental Hotel as well as Diethelm, Grimm, Louis T. Leonowens, and other major trading company offices of the day.

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Rama V (King Chulalongkorn) ordered the construction of the facility in order to cope with administration tasks pursuant to the signing of the Bowring Treaty of 1855, which liberalized trade with the United Kingdom and captured the attention of other European trading interests. Joachim Grassi (1837-1904), probably the first Italian architect to work for the Siamese crown, designed the edifice, and today it’s considered one his finest achievements. A few years earlier, Grassi designed what was then the largest building in Bangkok, the imposing Royal Army Barracks, opposite the Grand Palace. He was also responsible for the 1877 construction of Wat Niwet Thammaprawat, an unusual Buddhist temple in Bang Pa-In designed in European gothic style, complete with

a church-like tower, stained-glass windows, and a gothic altar where armoured knights flank the principal Buddha image. In classic Neo-Palladian style, the façade of Customs House’s main building is richly decorated with columns, and both bay and arch windows topped by delicately carved teak fanlights. The bulk of the building consists of three stories, with soaring three-meter-high ceilings and a flat parapet roof. The center wing of the building adds a fourth story with a Greek-inspired hipped roof, in the gable of which is placed a giant metal clock embellished with the royal insignia of Rama V. At the apex of the hipped roof sits a rectangular block topped by two lion sculptures, symbolizing power and royalty. The lions are standing on one hind leg, and bangkok101.com

highlight | SNAPSHOTS

Spooky staircase

using their two forepaws and other hind leg to support a pair of chatra, the three-tiered ceremonial umbrellas often seen in Thai temples and palaces. Among the interior highlights are a grand central teak staircase and an intense yellow and red linoleum floor, featuring a striking solar symbol in the center. Many of the rooms bear teak-plank floors and teak ceilings. Aside from the many rooms dedicated to tax activities, a large hall on the left wing of the third floor was created as a ballroom for visiting ships officers and foreign emissaries. When Rama V returned from his first visit to Europe in 1897, his ship docked in front of the Customs House, and an elaborate reception was held in the ballroom and in the main foyer on the ground floor.

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

In the Mood for Love

Riverfront location

In 1949, after a larger, more modern port opened in Khlong Toey, the customs office was moved to the new port. The buildings stood vacant until 1959, when they were turned over to the Bang Rak Fire Brigade for use as a residence for their employees. Over time, the fire brigade employees and their families were joined by families of the Bang Rak Marine Police, and the Treasury Department, who are allowed to live here rent-free. Sadly the Thai government performs virtually no maintenance on the three buildings, and today the grande dame presents a conglomeration of peeling ochre paint and failing plaster that has fallen away in many places to expose brick to the elements. Banyan trees and other vegetation have invaded the roof, especially in the eastern corner of the central building, and are steadily destabilizing the walls. Blue-streaked doors and windows, often framing laundry flapping in the river breeze, add to the faded charm. Hong Kong director Wong Kar Wai used the Customs House as a backdrop for several scenes in his highly regarded film In the Mood for

Love. The film was set in 1962 Hong Kong, and as the director said in an interview, “To make period films in Hong Kong is almost impossible. You need to go to places in Southeast Asia like Bangkok or parts of Malaysia, because in these cities you still find old buildings which belonged to Chinese communities in earlier days.” The Customs House also crops up in scenes from The Killing Fields (1984), standing in for old Phnom Penh. What the future holds for the old Customs House is difficult to ascertain. A decade ago plans were afoot to renovate the buildings as a superdeluxe Aman resort. Natural Park Public Company signed a contract with the Treasury Department to develop and manage the hotel for 30 years. Money changed hands, disputes arose, and the project has been postponed. My general impression is conservation needs to begin very soon, before collapse sets in. In the meantime, it’s surprisingly open to the public—in neighborhood eyes, it’s little more than a slum. Do be very careful if you decide to have a look inside, as the flooring can be fragile, even absent in places. SEP TEM BER 2016 | 41

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Energy Drinks Caffeine tonics fuel the nation

he West drinks Red Bull to play harder; the Thais drink it to work harder. This Thai tonic gained fame as a vodka mixer and party-prolonging upper for nightclubbers, garnering 65-90percent of the market in 83 countries. Yet the caffeine-rich beverage began as a labour-prolonging booster for the Thai working man. Energy tonics still fuel modern Thailand, the drink equivalent of diesel. Bottles of its local recipe Krating Daeng (which translates as “red bull”) may be seen just about everywhere. Active ingredients like caffeine, taurine and sugar help truckers deliver, students revise, vendors pedal, drivers stave off fatigue, and factory workers reach production targets. They need the energy. Observers marvel how Thais can doze off instantly, in the most awkward positions. It’s not unusual to catch guards nodding off while on duty, shop staff dozing forehead-on-counter, or workers kipping atop lumpy cargo on a speeding truck. This seeming narcolepsy isn’t just down to the heat, nor does drowsiness always mean laziness. Far from it. Norn len (‘play sleep’, or napping) stems as much from overwork and blood sugar collapse as from sanuk or sabai. For many low-paid Thais, work means long hours, lack of power and often a second job. An extra burden borne by migrant workers is the expectation to subsidize the extended family, which may account for half of a farm’s income. Even in free time, many Thais end up assisting relatives and friends without complaint. Meanwhile in daily life, Thai people must remain vigilant about status in all interactions. Such unrelenting stress requires a

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 42 | SEP TEM BER 2016

pick-me-up. Yaa dong (herbal whisky) rouses some, yaa baa (‘crazy drug’, a methamphetamine) speeds others illegally. Caffeine’s socially acceptable, though coffee tastes unpleasant to many Thais. Thus pocket-size bottled tonics keep Thailand awake. One of few Thai products to have gone “inter” (slang for international), Krating Daeng started out as a local emulation of the Japanese energy drink Lipovitan D. Exported to Thailand for Japanese salarymen who were running local factories, ‘Lipo’ also appealed to Thai workers. So in 1981, the late Chaleo Yoovidhaya cooked up a sweeter, stronger version branded with a bull icon meaningful to farmraised urbanites. Austrian Dietrich Mateschitz noticed the marketing potential. The two men became equal partners in 1984, making Chaleo’s syrup fizzy and less sweet to suit European tastes. It became the 21st century answer to cola, and a case study at marketing colleges. Red Bull made Chaleo one of the few Thais on the Forbes billionaire list, but to Westerners it seems not Thai, but a global brand with a burly

Austrian accent, like an extract of Schwarzenegger. But at home, Krating Daeng eventually lost market leadership to M100 and M150, while staying ahead of Chalarm (shark) and Lipo. Rival brands also push macho values, with M150 for years being promoted by boxers. ‘Red animal’ symbols have proved popular among energy drinks with regional markets, like Mah Daeng (Red Horse), Singha Daeng (Red Lion) and Chang Daeng (Red Elephant). In 2002, Songs For Life star Ad Carabao drew on his legions of rock fans to snatch a huge chunk of the growing sector within just a year with yet another ‘red animal’ brand incorporating his own name, Carabao Daeng (Red Buffalo). With energy drink makers now diversifying into vitamin health drinks and ‘enriched beverages’ to get round the caffeine restrictions, ever more virtuous one-upmanship seemed inevitable. In the next fad for enriched beverages, Thais began swilling sugary, turbocharged, caffeinated industrial versions of the most healthful, calming, genteel drink imaginable: green tea.

Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Suankularb Wittayalai School The oldest secondary education institution in Thailand

or tourists, the area surrounding Bangkok’s Memorial Bridge offers much. The bridge itself was the city’s first iron bridge (built by the same British company that erected the Sydney Harbour Bridge), and in the same vicinity sits the Bangkok Flower Market, with its incredible pageant of colours and skilled florists shaping garlands and assembling elaborate floral decorations. But there’s another notable landmark nearby, squished between the market and the bridge, that tourists quite wrongly neglect to investigate—the Suankularb Wittayalai School. This yellow painted, neo-classical building bears reminders of Italy, and this is no coincidence. When

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By Luc Citrinot the school was founded by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) in 1882, the craze in Bangkok was all about European architecture, particularly from Italy. The current building was designed and erected in 1910 by the Siam Public Works Department, which was headed at the time by Italians. The school itself is the oldest secondary education institution in Thailand, and the school compound used to be part of Wat Ratchaburana, which now stands across Tri Phet Road. This graceful structure bears many architectural surprises. From the front road, the building looks very classical—a bit severe on first glance—with its well ordered façade stretching around the main gate,

built in Palladian style with a majestic portico. However when examining the façade along the road, there are many details to be discovered, such as windows hidden behind loggias, gables on the corner, and large baroque style windows. Visitors should not be intimidated by the large main gate, but instead should stroll inside and around the courtyard. Especially as security guards are rather relaxed and even invite visitors to take a look. The loggias and arcades stretch over 200 metres, which explains the building’s Thai nickname of Tuek Yao (“long building”). There is also a slight curve to the building, offering wonderful perspectives, and a great background bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS for photos—especially with its regular succession of arches. Overall it evokes Renaissance palaces in Northern Italy with their arcade inner-courtyards. The school was bombed during World War II, as it stood next to strategic military targets such as Memorial Bridge and a power station, but was rebuilt in the years following the war, as close to the original design as possible. However, that was not the case for the green building that once stood next to Suankularb Wittayalai. Originally called the Poh Chang School, the building served as an educational institution for traditional arts under Rama VI. It was constructed in 1913, but wartime bombing erased all traces of this equally architecturally interesting property. It was rebuilt in the late 1940s and early 1950s following the principles of Khana Ratsadon (“People’s Party”) of former Prime Minister Field Marshall Phibul Songkhram. Largely inspired in the 1930s by nationalist or fascist architecture from Europe, the new school building is a “light” version of the former Supreme Court, and/or the Grand Central Post Office. It is less

Historic

Bangkok

Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

massive in its shape, and carries along its façades allegoric figures of Thai arts. The six columns of its main hall even finish in the shape of a lotus flower. The six columns are an ubiquitous character of any official building built during the reign of Phibul Songkhram, as they represent the People’s Party principles. Each column, respectively, symbolizes freedom, peace, equality, economy, education, and unity. Today part of Rajamangala University of Technology, the structure is a last remnant of the tumultuous years of nationalism in Thailand, and stands in sharp contrast to the neo-classical style of its neighbour. Considered as the most prestigious institution for secondary education in Thailand, Suankularb Wittayalai School can also be visited by the public and it has a (free) small museum dedicated to Thai education. However, opening hours are rather unpredictable, as it is still a boy’s school and has some 3,500 students enrolled. Since its opening, it has played an important role in the development of

the Kingdom, as many of its students have gone on to be involved in politics. It probably has the highest number of students who went on to become Prime Ministers, with such prestigious personalities as Pridi Bhanomyong, Maj. Gen. MR Kukrit Pramoj, and Gen. Prem Tinsulanonda. The school has also produced a high number of Supreme Commanders and Commanders-in-Chief of the Royal Thai Army, as well as many prominent businessmen. Meanwhile, for those who are simply wondering about the meaning of the school’s name, suankularb means “rose garden”, but not in reference to its blossoming famous alumni, but to the fact that the school was first opened near to Suankularn Palace, in the vicinity of Vinmanmek Mansion.

Suankularb Wittayalai School 88 Tri Phet Rd. Open daily, until 4pm Tel: 02 221 6701

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bangkok101.com

| TRAVEL

ROAM Pa Sak Boat Racing Festival

Traditional Long Boat Racing in Sao Hai

ne of Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest annual festivals, the TRADITIONAL LONG BOAT RACE on the PA SAK RIVER in SARABURI, is also one of the most exciting for fans of riverboat racing. The two-day event takes place in front of the Sao Hai district offices pier, and spectators can enjoy the thrilling high-speed rowing between the participants who represent the many river communities throughout Thailand. The race is divided into many categories, including the 55 paddler long boats, the 30 paddler small boats, and the 12 paddler mini-boats. One of the highlights of this festive occasion is the boisterous cheering from both the commentators and the crowd assembled along the riverbank. The 2016 Pa Sak Boat Racing Festival runs from Saturday, SEPTEMBER 24th to Sunday, SEPTEMBER 25th.

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TRAVEL | upcountry now

TRANG ROAST PORK FESTIVAL September 4

Pack your bags, and your appetite, if you’re heading down to Trang this month as the southern province’s annual Roast Pork Festival is back, promising plate after plate of crispy-skinned meaty mouthfuls. This yearly event is renowned nation-wide and the many of the delicious special recipes have been passed down from generation to generation. Besides mounds of pork to “pig-out” on, the festival also offers locals a platform for sharing their preparation techniques. You may even walk away with a little home-cooking knowledge under your belt, but one thing’s for sure—you won’t walk away hungry!

RIVER KWAI HALF MARATHON September 11

This annual long-distance marathon, established by a group of foreign running enthusiasts back in 1982, returns to Kanchanaburi for its 35th anniversary. The River Kwai International Half Marathon 2016 offers participants three distances to run—35 k, 21.1 k, and 10.5 k—and the race kicks off at the River Kwai Village Hotel starting at 5:30am. Runners will be impressed by the beautiful scenery along the way, and challenged by the intricacies of the course. Finishers receive commemorative medals and category winners get trophies. For information and registration visit: www.gotorace.com.

SALAK YOM CEREMONY September 15-16

During the 12th lunar month, according to the Thai Buddhist calendar, the annual Salak Yom Ceremony is held at Wat Prathat Haripunchai, in Lamphun. This ancient merit making ceremony was originally intended for women who were about to enter marrying age. A salak yom is a tall bamboo construction decorated with colourful paper made by local handicraft artists. Everyday things such as cash, food, jewellery and household items are attached to the salak yom, which are later offered to the monks. The ceremony also includes local food stalls, Lanna musical performances, a parade, and a tree decorating contest.

MID-AUTUMN (MOON) FESTIVAL September 16

During the eighth lunar month, Thai-Chinese families gather for the Mid-Autumn Festival to give thanks, honour their ancestors, and share gifts of Mooncakes, the revered round sweets that symbolically represent the sacrifices once made to Chang E, the moon goddess of immortality, during the harvest season. Nowadays it’s a time for families to convene, pay respects to the departed, and enjoy mooncakes made with lotus, red bean, sesame, salted egg, and durian—flavours as varied as the people enjoying them. 48 | SEP TEM BER 2016

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upcountry now | TRAVEL

FUZZER PARTY 2016 September 17

This month the province of Rayong will be on fire as its first ever ultimate EDM festival—Fuzzer Party 2016— takes place at the large outdoor area known Pleon Jai 5 (close to Rayong Bus Terminal 2). Dance the night away with well-known EDM celebrities such as DJ Soda from South Korea; known for her beauty, sexy moves, and her remarkable skills in mixing techniques. The lineup also features Thailand’s first EDM band Boom Boom Cash, and big names like Machina, Make You Freak, and KCBZ (Ketchupboyz). Tickets are B1,000 and can be purchased online at: www.facebook.com/fuzzerparty.

THAILAND GRAVITY SERIES 2016 September 17-18

Following the huge success of its first two incarnations, the 3rd annual Thailand Gravity Series once again promises downhill mountain bike racing at its highest level. The 1st race of the Thailand Gravity Series 2016 will be held in Suphanburi province (near Ayutthaya). This year the race offers 13 bike race categories to choose from, and highlights include the Downhill Men Elite, Downhill Women Elite, Downhill Junior, Downhill Master, Freeride Master and Freeride or Downhill Novice. Entry fee is B700, and there will be 3 more races for this series, in different months and in different locations. www.mojobikes.co.th

MEMORIAL DAY, KOH SI CHANG September 19-20

The island of Koh Si Chang recalls its fleeting glory this month during its Centennial Memorial Day celebrations. The tiny island was once a getaway for Thai royalty, and Rama V (King Chulalongkorn) ordered the construction of a palace there to commemorate the place where his son was born. However, when French troops occupied the island in 1892 construction was put on hold. Eventually, the skeleton of the residence was moved to Bangkok, where it would become Vimanmek Mansion. The Memorial Day celebrations feature various activities and performances— the perfect excuse to visit this oft overlooked destination.

SAT THAI FESTIVAL September 25-October 4

The Buddhist festival of Sat Thai takes place primarily in the southern part of Thailand, especially in Nakhon Si Tammarat province. The festival starts on the ninth day of the waxing of the 10th lunar month of the Thai calendar. Traditionally, families come together and visit their local temple and give offerings to their deceased relatives. Also they may give offerings to unrelated deceased people, especially praet, the giant ghosts with small mouths who are always hungry. The offerings are made of a special food, which has special meanings. bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | over the border

Dawn of the Gods

Joining the ranks of pilgrims climbing up the slopes of Sri Lanka’s most sacred peak rewards one with an early morning knock on heaven’s door Words by Marco Ferrarese Photos by Chan Kit Yeng

t’s pitch black and we are walking inside a snake of lights, crawling up the dark mountain slope. Passing under the arched tips of its neon-light vertebrae, we scratch the insides of its belly with the light beams of our torches. Step after step, this ancestral reptile moves sinuously until its flickering body hits another bend and twists again, forever upwards in the night. I’ve tackled quite a few mountains in my life—from the brown, flat headed giants embracing their knees atop China’s plains, to the pointy fellows holding each other’s hands before the entrance of Eden in the Annapurna region of Nepal. More challenging mountains, yes, but haunted by less solemn spirits. Here in the deep south 50 | SEP TEM BER 2016

of Sri Lanka, by contrast, pilgrims respect their gods so much they walk barefoot on the peak’s cold stone steps. All around us, women’s bangles tinkle against tired ankles, and maroon swaths of monks pull their robes over their shoulders to shield themselves from the mountain’s frostbite. All together, we go up silently towards the summit, to the place they call Adam’s Peak. But most importantly, this is Sri Pada, home of the ‘Sacred Footprint’, and the main reason for our spiralling ever upwards. At 2,243 meters, Adam’s Peak is one of Sri Lanka’s highest mountains and lies among the southern Central Highlands of the Ratnapura district in the bangkok101.com

over the border | TRAVEL

Sabaragamuwa province, 150 km east of Sri Lanka’s capital Colombo. It rises like a green fang from a carpet of dense forest reserve where it is said that wild elephants and leopards still dwell. Besides flocks of clouds, the peak also magnetizes thousands of pilgrims of different religions every day. In fact, the Sri Pada, a 1.8-meter-long rock formation that juts from the summit, has a mixed bag of religious meanings. Buddhists believe it is the Sacred Footprint of the Buddha, while Hindus believe it is that of Shiva. Meanwhile, to Christians and Muslims, it’s the sign of Adam’s passage on earth. Based on legends, the first person to discover the sacred footprint was King Valagambahu (104-76 BC) as he fled from marauding Cholian armies, and stumbled upon the site running after a deity disguised as stag. Marco Polo later visited—in the 14th century—reporting that his ascent was “extremely arduous”. Today, a stone staircase helps every Sri Lankan tackle the mountain several times during their lives. From December to April, when pilgrimage season is in full swing, the peak glows every night as if it were inhabited by thousands of fireflies. Some climb in the afternoon to reach the shrine at sundown, but the most popular and spiritual route is to ascend in the middle of the night, catching the crack of dawn as it slam-dunks a bangkok101.com

glowing ball into a sea of misty grey clouds covering the plains below. Getting to Adam’s Peak is an act of devotion in itself. After snaking from Kandy to Hatton on a slow train through the grassy bends of unending Ceylonese tea estates, I caught a rickety bus to Dalhousie, the starting point of the 5 km Nallathanni climbing route, the shortest and most direct way to the summit. A cluster of chai stalls, homestays, and restaurants were tablecloths are never de rigueur, Dalhousie rests at the foot of the Sacred Mountain, and feels like it’s been custom-made to start the Sri Pada experience. The basic facilities available here seem perfectly attuned to the reasons of the climb, which is not leisure, but pure pilgrimage. However, travellers can find shelter in a cluster of simple but cozy guesthouses manned by gregarious locals who have decided to squeeze a little profit from the nearby sacred peak. I’m out of bed and standing in the cold by 3am, since dawn breaks at 6:30am, and the climb can take from twoand-a-half to four hours. I follow groups of pilgrims in white dothis and sarees who lead me through the dark and to the beginning of the incline, almost 2 km into the ascent. “Each time feels like the first,” says Saman, a slender man from a village near Bentota. He and his wife are at their fifth climb, and today they are accompanying their SEP TEM BER 2016 | 51

TRAVEL | over the border

six year-old son for his first ascent. Before the path starts rising, a monk from the nearby Japanese temple comes forward for an offer and a blessing, and ties a white string around my waist. With the eye of one of Sri Pada’s benevolent Gods upon me, I proceed upwards as the incline slowly turns into a stone staircase. Sleepy people buried under mounds of blankets are waiting under the neon lights set at the sides of the path to keep darkness at bay. They outstretch their arms, holding pans filled with soul soothing chai over portable gas stoves. Cups, even on a sacred mountain, have the inflated prices of tourism’s gold rush. The peak itself comes into view when we are a couple of hours into the climb. Very few of the humans we meet along the staircase are heading down. The faces of the people are still, their mouths zipped up and their eyes pointed to the trail ahead as they shiver surrounded by pitch black. The darkness starts dispersing in tones of blue as the path becomes one with the rock of the peak, and handle bars appear to help us all pull ourselves upwards and finally to the top. The arrival is surreal. Just before the night shatters like a broken mirror in cracks of burning red, we exit from the snaking trail head crossing a melee of shoes abandoned right before the Sacred Shrine’s platform, a high-altitude 52 | SEP TEM BER 2016

marble-floored island filled with a revolving of pilgrims. They walk in circles, reciting mantras, queuing up to pray before the Sacred Footprint. On the edge of the slope, young monks in woollen hats hold their robes tight under their chins with frosty fingers, waiting for the beauty of the sun’s first kick into a new day. With a glowing shrine and the sound of tolling bells behind my back, I join the line and watch thirsty clouds dripping gold over the goose bumps of central Sri Lanka’s back, stretching below us towards the horizon. As I gulp in awe, my tired legs stop aching. The spectacle makes us all forget that we will have to return to Earth, at some point.

Getting there Two daily trains leave from Kandy to Hatton. Number 1005 departs at 8:47am and arrives at 11:12am, while number 1015 leaves at 11:10am and arrives at 1:26pm. From Hatton’s train station, buses depart to Dalhousie until 3pm. During pilgrimage season, direct buses go to Dalhousie from Colombo, Kandy and Nuwara Eliya. However, the scenic train route across the Hill Country is a highly recommended way to reach the sacred peak.

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Retreat from the daily grind and surrender to tranquillity. Unwind with spa treatments at our award-winning Banyan Tree Spa or tee off at our 18-hole championship golf course or indulge in tantalising Vietnamese delights and international favourites prepared by our skillful chefs. From now until 22 December, Banyan Tree Lăng Cô is happy to welcome *Thai Residents by offering a 2 nights stay in our opulent villas from **THB 15550++ with other inclusions. For more information or to make a reservation, please contact us directly at reservations-langco@banyantree.com, or +84 54 3695 888. * This offer is exclusively for residents of Thailand only. Valid ID and working permit are required upon check-in. Other terms and conditions apply. ** Rate applicable for minimum 2 nights stay only.

Sanctuary for the Senses CHINA • INDONESIA • KOREA • MALDIVES • MEXICO • SEYCHELLES VIETNAM • THAILAND • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

ART

| ART & CULTURE

Patronage System

Exhibition of oil paintings by Leela Promwong

his month the art exhibition PATRONAGE SYSTEM presents a series of oil paintings that touch upon the idea of nonequivalence in society, involving the behaviour of wealthy persons towards the poor. Artist LEELA PROMWONG depicts—in a Thai contemporary style that incorporates both fantasy and fantastic creatures—the image of the wealthy person exhibiting threatening behaviour, much like a kind of gangster. In turn, these acts lead to persecution, threats, and exploitation against people who are in vulnerable situations. The person who has no money and no power falls wearily into position. Of this series of artworks, four were created in the year 2015, and four in this year (2016). In all of the paintings the “patronage system” that is conveyed and referred to illustrates the highest to the lowest points in the food chain in nature—that of carnivore and herbivore—to insinuate things about the essential problems in human society. These artworks are outstanding and individual in composition and also in brush stroke technique. The artist’s fastidious style of painting recreates perfectly every detail of each form represented. Likewise, the striking colours bring out strong feelings and seem to bore straight into the eyes of the audience. PATRONAGE SYSTEM runs from SEPTEMBER 3-24 at the NUMBER 1 GALLERY (19, Silom Soi 21). Viewing hours are Monday to Saturday, from 11am till 7pm. For more information, call 02 630 3381. www.number1gallery.com

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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

SEPTEMBER 1-30 Absolutely Unsure YenakArt Villa

69 Soi Prasart Suk, Yenakart Rd. Viewing hours: Mon-Fri, 3pm-7pm Tel: 02 235 9800 | www.yenakartvilla.com

This multi-media exhibit presents works by a group of four fresh graduates, and two seasoned graduates, all from Bangkok University’s Visual Art department. The exhibition title is an oxymoron—two words with contradictory meanings that are placed next to one another. Many contradictions and paradoxes appear naturally in our everyday encounters, especially in our current age of unashamed selfies and banal social-media broadcasts. These young artists reflect relevant voices of their generation, with interpretations from the grand narrative ideas of Thainess, gender and individuality.

SEPTEMBER 2-NOVEMBER 20 Traces and Trails

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) 939 Rama I Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 10am-9pm Tel: 02 214 6630 | www.bacc.or.th

Traces and Trails is an art exhibition to honour Pratuang Emjaroen, an influential Thai contemporary visual artist. The exhibition concludes his monumental series from his first artistic period, to the very recent one spanning over five decades of his creative output. In this exhibition his works of art will be structured in five sections in order to clarify the evolutionary road this acclaimed National Artist of Thailand has paved—a narrative that fully embraces the story of his life, and family, as well as the deeply involving ever-changing scenarios of Thai society, economy, and politics. A must-see retrospective.

SEPTEMBER 8–OCTOBER 8 Lab/Art

Tadu Contemporary Art 2F, Thaiyarnyon Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 87 Viewing hours: daily from 9:30am-6pm Tel: 02 311 8848 | facebook: Tadu Contemporary Art

In this interactive installation exhibition by Witaya Junma—curated by Nikan Bow Wasinondh—a set of art projects combine technology and human interaction-based digital arts. Each project has been through hours and hours thought processing and finessing, and participants in these projects will be able to experience and interpret their feelings when interacting in the installation which, in turn, will make them part of the overall exhibit. The 36 year-old artist behind the show is a graduate of the Faculty of Fine Art, Chiang-Mai University, and has exhibited numerous times in and around Bangkok. 56 | SEP TEM BER 2016

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

SEPTEMBER 9–NOVEMBER 12 Parade of Toys

Kalwit Studio & Gallery 119/14, Ruamrudee Soi 2 Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm Tel: 02 254 4629 | www.facebook.com/kalwitstudio

Racial and cultural discrimination is always unavoidable in any form of social movement. The vast majority of people are often superficial or pay unwarranted attention to the appearance of others. Similarly, favouritism and patronage are deeply rooted in society. For some, both can be beneficial and troublesome, which can lead to problems seen today. Ideas such as these are what artists Jirapong Somphao, Phurapol Sotaiyin, and Phuwadon Thongnoum choose to explore. This showcase of their work reflects the meet-up and brainstorming sessions held between these three talented artists as they discuss the subject through art.

SEPTEMBER 15-18 Nocturne

Project 189 Bangkok 189 Soi Nana, Mitrijit Rd. Viewing hours: 10am-10pm (closing party at 7pm on the 18th) Tel: 089 890 0450 | www.facebook.com/project189bkk

Photographer Nana Chen first exhibited her series entitled Nocturne, a portrait of Bangkok’s Chinatown, back in June of this year. Now her show returns to Bangkok, but just for four days. Chen explores Chinatown by night, over the course of two months, and her photos are haunted by isolation, loneliness, decay, and death—a temple morphs into the face of a lion, an artificial streak of light points to an eroded building, and a display case containing dried leaves and stuffed tarantulas suggests an alchemist lives nearby. Her images at once dissect the human condition and life’s fading elegance.

SEPTEMBER 15-OCTOBER 15 Nine Expressions of Asia Sathorn 11 Art Space

404, Soi 11, Sathorn Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 004 1199 | www.sathorn11.com

This group photography exhibition will feature both Thai nationals and non-Thais alike. The line up includes worldrenowned photographers such as Andrew McNeill, Ekkarat Punyatara, Jesper Haynes, Tavepong Pratoomwong, Christian Hogue, Miti Ruangkritya, Nick McGrath, Vichaya Chatikavanij, and Rudolf Beger. The photographers will exhibit their work under the theme of ‘Expression of Asia’, and each master shutterbug will bring their own style and influence to bear, creating their interpretation of what “expresses” Asia to them. It should be interesting to see what differences and similarities might emerge. bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | arts feature

Chinese Acrobats

Giselle

Avner Biron

Hollywood Sound

A Cultural Feast

Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance & Music returns, running from September 8th till October 19th

By Lekha Shankar

t’s September, which means it’s time once again for the city’s best-known cultural extravaganza, the 18th annual Bangkok International Festival of Dance & Music, to take over the stage at the Thailand Cultural Centre (14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd). This year culture vultures have a mega-buffet of events to choose from, including ballet, opera, jazz, symphony, Spanish flamenco, Indian dance, and even Chinese acrobatics. The festival opens in grand style with a pair of performances direct from Russia. The roster features two highly popular ballets, Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake and Adolphe Adam’s Giselle, and both are being performed by a 90-strong troupe from the famed Moscow Stanislavsky Ballet, complete with spectacular stage sets and live orchestra. Swan Lake will be performed on September 8th 58 | SEP TEM BER 2016

and 9th, while the single performance of Giselle will take place on September 11th. The Russian influence continues with Moscow’s dynamic Helikon Opera Theatre, who will perform two of their best-known dramas—Verdi’s powerful Un Ballo In Maschera (A Masked Ball) on September 18th, and Bizet’s unforgettable Carmen on September 20th. Both operas will include subtitles in Thai and English. The Ballet du Grand Théâtre de Genève is one of the premier dance groups from Switzerland, and they will be in town on September 24th to perform the classic Wagner drama Tristan and Isolde. And one of the most exciting things about this performance is the fact that the lead is played by award-winning Swiss-Thai ballerina Sarawanee Tanatanit. The troupe will also appear on the 26th of bangkok101.com

arts feature | ART & CULTURE

Arts Interview ADITI MANGALDAS

Sarawanee Tanatanit September to perform Carl Orff’s Camina Burana. Thailand’s Swiss Ambassador HE Ivo Sieber raves over the group’s “sublime and dynamic virtuosity”, but ballet fans already know this is a must-see event.

“WE BELIEVE THAT MUSIC AND ART CAN DEVELOP BOTH THE PEOPLE AND THE NATION. THAT’S WHY IT’S OUR HONOUR TO SPONSOR THIS HIGH-QUALITY FESTIVAL.” Vichien Shnatepaporn CEO of www.jobtopgun.com (associated with the festival since last year)

As for great classical music groups gracing the stage, the world-famous Israel Camerata Orchestra will appear on September 22nd. Still led by their legendary founder-conductor Avner Biron, the group is noted for its huge repertoire, and will play everything from Bartok, to Haydn and Schubert. Later in the month a different set of rhythms comes to town, as Europe's Scalatheater brings Bangkok their Hollywood Sound of Cinema show. Eight magnificent singers, who have brought audiences to their feet around the world, will resurrect the best of Hollywood songs live on stage. Finally, in a must-attend event, for the family, the China National Acrobatic Troupe returns to wow audiences young and old. According to Chinese Cultural Attaché Chen Jiang, this acrobatic troupe is one of the oldest and best-known groups in China, and they have performed in nearly 124 nations across the globe. He’s excited by the dynamic new acts they’ll be performing this year, which he’s sure will dazzle and delight Thai audiences. NOTE: In next month’s issue we’ll be highlighting the festival events that are set to take place in October.

For more information: www.bangkokfestivals.com For purchase tickets: www.thaiticketmajor.com bangkok101.com

On September 14th don’t miss Unchartered Seas, a magnificent exposition of the sizzling Kathak dance form, performed by globally renowned Indian dancer Aditi Mangaldas. The phenomenal twists and turns of this dance form have been masterfully choreographed by the dancer into a scintillating Aditi Mangaldas ballet that shows, according to Indian Ambassador HE Bhagwant Singh Bishnoi, “The spirit of innovation, while respecting the dance form’s rich heritage and traditions.” Does the title ‘Uncharted Seas’ exemplify your own philosophy? It does reflect my philosophy of always wanting to discover new things and trying to find a path through the unknown. Is this production a total celebration of the Kathak dance form? Yes, the production traverses through the entire repertoire of classical Kathak. What makes Kathak different from other Indian dance forms? Kathak is unique because it combines Hindu and Muslim traditions. It is open-ended, and therefore more conducive for innovation. Why is Kathak often compared to the flamenco dance form? It’s generally believed that Kathak is the parent of flamenco. That’s because there was a time when there was a lot of trade and exchange between the gypsies of North India and Spain. Do you enjoy doing both classical and contemporary Kathak dance? Yes, I enjoy both. Basically I love to dance, and don’t want to restrict myself, in body, mind, and heart. How special is this festival to you? It’s an honour and pleasure to be a part of this festival, where we are representing an ancient Indian classical dance form that is still relevant today.

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ART & CULTURE | cinema scope

Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott

uropean cinema is definitely at the forefront of film screening news this month, as both Italy and Sweden are holding mini-festivals, showcasing some of the more promising releases from each respective nation. The 5th annual Swedish Film Festival gets underway first, at the SF World Cinema (CentralWorld), beginning on September 7th. There will be seven films in total screened before the festival wraps up on September 11th, and four of them will be screened twice. The list of movies includes: Astrid (2015), a film about the creator of the Pippi Longstocking series; The Circle (2015), a spooky tale of witches, magic, and six teenage girls; and We Are the Best (2013), a look back on Stockholm’s early punk scene as seen through the eyes of three young girls. Tickets are B120 each, and the films will be screened in Swedish with English subtitles. Check the cinema website for more info. www.sfcinemacity.com This month’s Italian Film Festival—which is being presented as part of the Fair Play ongoing Italian Festival in Thailand 2016—will begin on September 13th and continue until September 18th, presenting seven films in total. Screenings will take place at the stylish Quartier CineArt, located in the EmQuartier shopping mall (BTS Phrom Phong station). The list of films, all but one The Forest from 2015, includes: Youth (La Giovinezza), in which a retired orchestra conductor receives an invitation to play for Queen Elizabeth; Il Nome del Figlio, the story of a couple who can’t agree on a name for their newborn baby; and The Bear Tales (I Racconti dell’Orso), a surreal narrative involving a mechanical monk, a man dressed in red, and a small teddy bear. All movies will be screened in Italian with English subtitles. Visit the website at www.majorcineplex.com/en/cinema/quartier-cineart Another taste of European cinema can be had by attending either of the Goethe Institute’s free screenings of the brilliant 1987 film Wings of Desire, directed by Wim Wenders. The film follows two angels as they watch over the fates of various residents of pre-fall-of-the-wall Berlin. The first of the two screenings of this art-house classic will be at 1pm at the Thai Film Archive (Salaya) on September 11th, and the second at 1pm at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) on September 13th. 60 | SEP TEM BER 2016

Meanwhile, the BACC continues its Cinema Diverse: Director’s Choice series. The theme all year has been ‘The Female Perspective’, and on September 24th awardwinning Thai film director Pimpaka Towira presents Happy Hour (2015) directed by Ryûsuke Hamaguchi. Tickets are B60 each and the screening begins at 3pm. The postscreening Q&A with the director will be conducted in Thai with English translation. en.bacc.or.th On a different note, fans of the FCCT’s long running ‘Contemporary World Film Series’ will be happy to know that the series has a new home at Thailand Knowledge (TK) Park, located on the 8th floor of CentralWorld. Kicking off the season will be Fair Play (2014), by Czech film director Andrea Sedlackova (with English and Thai subtitles). The story revolves around doping in Olympic sports—an issue that couldn’t be more topical. The screening takes place on Saturday, September 10th at 4pm, and will be followed by snacks and refreshments provided by the Embassy of the Czech Republic. Tickets are only B20 each. If you happen to be in the north end of the city, the Paragon Cineplex Cinema at the Esplanade Park Rangsit is hosting the Little Big Films Project. On September 15th catch After The Storm (2015), a Japanese film by Hirokazu Kore-eda, and on September 29th don’t miss About Ray (2015) starring Elle Fanning, Naomi Watts, and Susan Sarandon—a huge hit at last year’s Toronto Film Festival. At the end of the month, on September 30th, the WTF (What The Film) Short Film Festival takes place at Jam (41 Soi Rong Nam Kang), with some of the best local talents showcasing their work. Start time is 7pm. Finally, make a point of seeing the new Thai horror film The Forest when it begins its theatrical release on September 15th at SF World Cinema at CentralWorld. The movie’s director is Paul Spurrier, a long time Bangkok resident and also the creative mind behind The FrieseGreene Club (Bangkok’s most unique screening venue). The film, which has already been shown at several international festivals, tells the supernatural story of a village teacher in rural Thailand and a mute girl in his class who retreats into a fantasy world where she finds solace in the forest with a strange wild boy. You can watch the trailer here: https://youtu.be/t9Vipg7Ubw4 bangkok101.com

A Space to Exist Solo Exhibition by Gi-ok Jeon

“As an immigrant, maybe I still worry about my own space to exist.”

orean-born Gi-ok Jeon received her BFA in painting in Seoul, her MFA in Chinese painting from the prestigious Beijing Central Academy of Fine arts, and moved to Bangkok and continued to study printmaking at the Department of Visual Arts & Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts at Chulalongkorn University. She is an innovative multi-media artist combining many different techniques—from embroidery and woodcuts, to painting and weaving—and she uses these diverse methods to touch upon content that is associated with multicultural identity, motherhood, and daily life; at all times referencing her Korean heritage, Chinese aesthetic, and Thai life. Her exhibition A Space to Exist, makes use of Thai Patoong fabric on Korean rice paper and Korean Hanbok fabric on Thai bamboo paper. The show is presented in partnership with the Korean Cultural Center, and will be on display at the Subhashok Arts Centre (160/3, Soi Sukhumvit 39) from September 3rd to October 2nd, 2016.

Art & Culture Photo Feature

FOOD & DRINK |

Chef Alessandro Boglione 68 | SEP TEM BER 2016

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| FOOD & DRINK

AROY san pellegrino celebrity chef event

From September 14th to 17th, ENOTECA ITALIANA restaurant, in collaboration with the San Pellegrino Fine Dining Lovers series, is hosting four gourmet evenings with one of the best young chefs in Italy, Chef ALESSANDRO BOGLIONE, whose restaurant il Castello in Italy has been awarded one Michelin star each year from 2010 to 2016. Chef Boglione will present two different five-course dégustation menus—one meat and one fish—both priced at B3,500++. For an additional B1,500++ the dinners also include a specially curated wine pairing from GFOUR INTERNATIONAL fine wines. Secure your space early as these events are almost guaranteed to sell out. For reservations call 02 258 4386.

finding your niche For an inventively delicious East meets West experience, make your way to NICHE restaurant, the ground floor dining venue at the SIAM KEMPINSKI HOTEL BANGKOK, and try the new conceptual menu creations from Executive Chef JAMES NORMAN. The idea here is that diners select dishes prepared in an ‘Asian’ or ‘non-Asian’ interpretation. For instance, the 48-hour braised smoked beef rib ‘Asian style’ comes with tamarind glaze, coriander seeds and fragrant herb salad, while the non-Asian option is served in a delicious BBQ sauce with buttered corn. “We encourage guests to make multiple selections in order to enjoy the tremendous variety on the menu, and the sizes of each portion encourage diners to share and compare,” explains the chef, who promises equally enticing menu variations utilizing blue fin tuna, oysters, New York strip steak, lobster, and a whole lot more.

chiang mai chèvre Bangkok-based gourmet food producers VIVIN—whose product range includes whole duck foie gras terrine, dried duck magret, and caviar—has just introduced a new line of GOAT CHEESES, available for purchase from the company’s permanent corner shop at the Central Chidlom Food Hall. Both the gourmand goats and the production facility that produces the handmade cheeses are based in CHIANG MAI, and the new range of cheeses come in six different varieties: a 4-week aged Colliné, a ricotta-style, two semifresh varieties called bûchette and petit blanc, and two seasoned options: fresh black pepper, and fresh garlic and herb. www.vivinmaison.com

new and notable Slaves to sushi have no doubt already made the pilgrimage to the 4th floor of the CUBE MAHANAKHON, where American Iron Chef TV star MASAHARU MORIMOTO just opened his newest signature Japanese restaurant—named, not surprisingly, MORIMOTO BANGKOK. Another “one name says it all” chef who recently opened a venue in town is Bangkok’s own GAGGAN ANAND, whose brand new GAGGAN LAB hosted a series of delicious debut private dining sessions last month (one of which Bangkok 101 was fortunate enough to attend).

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FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

Panorama presents Roast Night Pleasures Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumphini Park | 952 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 632 9000 | www.crowneplaza-bangkok.com

The sky-high Panorama restaurant, located on the 23rd floor of the Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumphini Park, presents ‘Roast Night Pleasure’, the finest grilled specialties from land and sea—including Wagyu beef, Boston lobster, and Hokkaido scallops. For B800 you have your choice of unlimited appetizers, such as oysters, salmon sashimi, and parma ham, while the roasted items are ordered à la carte. This promotion takes place every Friday night until October 31st, with a 10 percent discount for online booking.

Mid-Week Beer Therapy at Bistro M

Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit | 90, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 302 555 | www.marriottsukhumvitpark.com Don’t let the weekday blues get you down! Come on over to Bistro M, located at the Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit, for a free flow evening of iced cold Chang beer along with your choice of an array of finger foods, including spicy chicken wings, marinated tiger prawn skewers, and seafood fritters. There’s even a live band providing some soulful musical accompaniment. This promotion is priced at B599 per person, and is available every Wednesday night from 7pm to 10pm.

Champagne Sunday Brunch at Anantara Siam Bangkok Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel | 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 | siam-bangkok.anantara.com

Every Sunday at the Anantara Siam Hotel enjoy a mouth-watering international brunch, with free flow premium champagne from Taittinger. Indulge yourself with fresh Sydney rock oysters, lamb chops, crispy pork loin, and much, much more. Guests can be seated in the dining outlet of their choice—Madison, Spice Market, Aqua Bar or Parichart Court— and brunch is served from 11:30am to 3pm. The champagne meal is priced at B3,750, or choose the B2,999 non-alcohol option (B1,500 for children 6 to 12 years old).

The Queen of the Freshwater Streams at Tai Hei Banyan Tree Bangkok | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 | www.banyantree.com

Located on the 53rd and 54th floors of the Banyan Tree Bangkok, the authentic Japanese restaurant Tai Hei is bringing Bangkok seafood lovers one of the tastiest of all river fish. The Ayu, also known as Sweetfish, is a favourite ingredient in Japanese cuisine. Savour the aromatic delicacy and unique flavour of this noble fish—once served on the tables of the Imperial Courts. Enjoy this royal delicacy throughout September. The Ayu menu is available for lunch from 11:30am till 2:30pm, and dinner from 6pm till 11pm.

Indulgent New Sunday Brunch at Rain Tree Café Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Meridien | 61 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 650 8800 | www.plazaatheneebangkok.com

The recently redesigned Rain Tree Café at Plaza Athénée Bangkok returns with its gourmet Sunday Brunch inspired by the summer palace of King Rama V’s daughter. The unique culinary creations, courtesy of the international chef team, include grilled live lobster, imported oysters, Peking duck, and rack of lamb. Guests can also opt from a wide variety of à la carte menu items, such as pan-seared foie gras with spiced pineapple chutney. Brunch is served from noon to 3:30pm, and priced at B2,400 (B1,200 for kids).

Joint Sunday Brunching at Seasonal Tastes and Kisso The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok | 259, Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 | www.westingrandesukhumvit.com

Spend your Sunday, from noon to 3pm, indulging in a joint brunch package at Seasonal Tastes and Kisso Japanese restaurant. Seasonal Tastes offers everything from imported charcuterie and cheeses to grilled lamb chops, while Kisso offers such all-time favourites as sushi, hotpot shabu, and beef curry. At Seasonal Tastes the price is B2,490, which includes soft drinks and access to the Kisso buffet. At Kisso the price is B2,950, with a glass of champagne, soft drinks, a half-lobster, and access to the Seasonal Tastes buffet.

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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK

Baan Phadthai A classic Thai dish gets an upgrade

hether you spell it phadthai, pad thai, or phat thai (the official RTGS transcription, which is also my personal preference), Thailand’s ubiquitous fried rice-noodle dish is the stuff of legend. Once ranked number 5 on CNN Go’s World’s 50 Most Delicious Foods readers’ poll, this sweet-and-savoury noodle pile can be traced back to the Ayutthaya era. Although rice noodle dishes of all kinds made their way from southern China to early Siam, particularly from the Chaozhou (Teochew) region of eastern Guangdong, the addition of dried prawns, tamarind, and ground peanuts lend it a certain Thai-ness. But it has also been suggested these attributes came via the Vietnamese presence in Ayutthaya. Whatever its true origins, Thai military dictator Plaek Pibulsonggram aggressively promoted the dish during his mid-20th-century rule as a way to counter the growing popularity of Chinese noodle dishes. The fact that it’s so common in Thailand, yet so badly done in many local eateries, means it’s often dissed among ‘serious’ Thai foodies. That’s a shame, because a well-fashioned phat thai is about as serious as you can get. The challenge is finding one worth writing home about, or writing about in a magazine. Founded by French restaurateur Fred Meyer (Kombawa, Pizza Massilia, Namsaah Bottling Trust, Issaya Siamese Club), Baan Phadthai gives the namesake dish an admirable reboot at a lovingly renovated, and rustically decorated, bright blue shophouse on Charoen Krung road (walking distance from BTS Saphan Taksin). The open-air dining room—air-con dining will soon be available upstairs—with its ceiling fans and wooden tables topped with metal boxes holding the silverware, successfully evokes an old-school noodle-house vibe. Chef Sujira Pongmorn’s secret 18-ingredient phat thai base, combined with Chanthaburi rice noodles, homemade dried shrimp, bangkok101.com

duck egg, and crab fat, takes the dish’s traditional flavour profile to a whole new level. Prices, fortunately, are very reasonable considering the quality of ingredients. We enjoyed the Phad Thai Poo (B280), a magnificent crabmeat version, large enough for two to easily share. Pork, chicken, and vegetarian renditions are also available. Very tasty as well were all our starters, including Gai Tod (spicy chicken wings, B150), Laab Moo Tod (fried minced pork-and-herb balls, B190), and Mieng Khana (B150), an amped-up version of miang kham in which kale replaces wild tea leaves. We washed it all down with repeated glasses of Thai Mojito (B150), made with Sangsom whiskey. Among other beverages available are homemade

Oliang (B100-120), a black, sweet Thai coffee, and Thai tea (B90-100). It’s also worth stopping by just for the traditional Thai desserts, designed by Chef Arisara Chongphanitkul of Issaya La Patisserie fame. Choices include Itim Ka Thi (B120), the richest, most delicious coconut ice cream we’ve tasted anywhere in the city, and the unique Xa La Bao Durian (B140), pandan-infused Chinese steamed buns filled with durian cream. by Joe Cummings/CPA Media

Baan Phadthai

21-23, Charoenkrung Soi 44 Tel: 02 060 5553 Open daily: 11am-10pm www.facebook.com/baanphadthai SEP TEM BER 2016 | 71

FOOD & DRINK | celebrity chef event

Gourmand Gala

Anantara Siam’s World Gourmet Festival returns with a stellar line-up of events, including Michelin Star chef dinners

ach year the arrival of the World Gourmet Festival has Bangkok’s legions of foodies salivating in anticipation. This year marks the 17th edition of this popular event, which runs from September 19th to the 25th at the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel. This year the chef line-up includes chefs from France, Italy, Spain, Singapore and Hong Kong, but also brings two chefs from farther afield—one from Sri Lanka and one from Slovenia. The lavish dinners will be taking over the hotel’s four main dining establishments—Madison, Spice Market, Shintaro and Biscotti—while the cocktail events will take place in various locations, including the Aqua bar. So, loosen that belt and get ready for a week of fabulous feasting.

JOSEAN ALIJA

When: September 19-20 Where: Biscotti | Price: B6,900

Chef Josean Alija comes to town all the way from Michelin star Nerua restaurant in Bilbao, Spain. In 2011 the International Academy of Gastronomy awarded him the Prix du Chef de L’Avenir (The Chef of the Future Award), and Cuaderno Matoses selected Nerua as the second best restaurant in 2014, after visiting over 350 restaurants in more than 20 countries. In 2015, the Restaurant magazine included Nerua for the first time on its list of the world’s 100 best restaurants, and in 2016 Nerua rose to number 55 on the prestigious selection. 72 | SEP TEM BER 2016

MAURO COLAGRECO When: September 23-24 Where: Madison | Price: B6,900

Argentinian-born chef Mauro Colagreco established Mirazur restaurant in Menton, France, in 2006, and within six months he had received the ‘Revelation of the Year’ award from Gault & Millau—a brand new category to recognize his merits. Less than a year later he had earned his first Michelin star, and Mirazur officially became one of the premier restaurants in the world, as listed in The S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. In the same year, Colagreco was also awarded ‘Chef of the Year’ by the prestigious Gault & Millau restaurant guide.

ANTHONY GENOVESE When: September 23-24 Where: Biscotti | Price: B6,900

Originally born in France, of Southern Italian origin, chef Anthony Genovese started his career in France, working in several Michelin-starred restaurants. In 2003 he settled in Italy and opened the restaurant Il Pagliaccio in an 18th century house in Rome—and soon received two Michelin stars. The gifted chef named his restaurant after the opera Pagliacci, stating: “Clowns, just as cooks, are always in the spotlights, and have to be the best… no matter what is behind the mask.”

DHARSHAN MUNIDASA When: September 19-20 Where: Spice Market | Price: B5,000

Chef Dharshan Munidasa founded both Nihonbashi and the Ministry of Crab, two of Sri Lanka’s most successful restaurants (both appearing on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list). In 2014 he began Kaema Sutra, a contemporary Sri Lankan cuisine restaurant that draws inspiration from traditional recipes, many stemming from local street fare. His cooking employs the use of fresh local produce alongside Japanese culinary principles. Two of his restaurants even employ a no-freezer policy, emphasizing the use of fresh produce and guaranteeing the quality of all his dishes. bangkok101.com

celebrity chef event | FOOD & DRINK

KANESAKA SHINJI

When: September 21-22 Where: Shintaro | Price: B8,900

ANA ROŠ

When: September 23-24 Where: Spice Market | Price: B6,900

In the heart of Europe lies the small country of Slovenia, and it’s here that chef Ana Roš is the co-owner of Hiša Franko, her husband Valter’s familial guesthouse, located in the alpine Soca Valley near the Italian border. The flowery, herbal, yet delicate and precise nature of her cooking has made her the only woman, so far, to have joined the prestigious ‘Cook it Raw’ group of chefs. At her much lauded restaurant she serves dishes made with ingredients sourced within walking distance from her restaurant—what she calls her “zero-kilometer” approach.

Sushi maestro Kanesaka Shinji, the man behind Shinji by Kanesaka (Hong Kong and Singapore), delights sushi aficionados who are looking for the most authentic and the finest omakase (chef’s selection) experience. The restaurant joined the ranks of Michelin-starred establishments after only nine months of operation, making Kanesaka one of the most celebrated and youngest sushi chefs in Japan. The restaurant is considered sushi Mecca by his legion of fans, which include country leaders and international celebrities.

MARCO STABILE

When: September 21-22 Where: Biscotti | Price: B6,900

Hailing from Pontedera, in Tuscany, chef Marco Stabile has quickly risen to prominence in Italy. He developed his skill for subtle invention whilst working in some of the country’s finest kitchens. Along with his restaurant Ora d’Aria, in Florence—where he is both resident head chef and co-owner—Marco is also an occasional teacher at some of Italy’s most celebrated culinary schools. He also remains a committed supporter and collaborator with the prestigious ‘Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe’ group (Young Restaurateurs of Europe).

BOBBY CHINN

When: September 25 | Where: Aqua Time: Brunch from 11:30am till 3pm Price: B3,500-4,500

HIDEAKI SATO

When: September 21-22 Where: Madison | Price: B6,900

After accumulating an impressive resume—including leading the first overseas branch of Tenku Ryugin, in Hong Kong, and receiving two Michelin stars within just six months of opening—Japanese-born chef Hideaki Sato launched his restaurant Ta Vie (also in Hong Kong) in 2015. Described by the chef as a place where he can apply Japanese cuisine philosophy to French cuisine, his restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star that same year, and in 2016 was ranked on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. bangkok101.com

Born in New Zealand to a Chinese father and Egyptian mother, Bobby Chinn has lived a very international life, eventually settling in Vietnam in the mid 90s. Along the way he developed a passion for food and cooking, and is now a renowned master of modern, global cuisine and a popular TV personality. He opened two award-winning restaurants in Vietnam before closing them and relocating to London in 2014, where he created the modern Vietnamese concept and launched The House of Ho. He has also been the ambassador promoting ‘Sustainable Seafood Production’ for the WWF since 2012. He will be preparing a special brunch on Sunday, September 25th at Aqua, but will also be presenting Bobby Chin Food & Band at the same venue on Saturday, September 24th from 9pm until midnight. Dining Details Dinners: Cocktails from 7pm, Dinner at 7:30pm Afternoon Teas: 3pm until 6pm Brunches: 11:30am until 3pm Other Events: 3pm until 5pm

Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 Email: siam@anantara.com www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com www.worldgourmetfestivalasia.com SEP TEM BER 2016 | 73

FOOD & DRINK | review

Saffron

A score of years and petals on a plate

o celebrate Banyan Tree Bangkok’s 20th year, the high-in-the-sky fine Thai cuisinery Saffron is offering a set menu featuring a selection of wine-paired, contemporary-traditional dishes that eloquently capture the flavourful essence of Thailand’s rich culinary heritage. And the addition of brilliantly hued edible flowers provides each course with a delightfully delectable soupçon of aesthetic seasoning. The Saffron Edible Flower Set Menu fourcourse dinner is priced at B1,899 per person (B2,899 with wine pairing for three of the courses). The cozy, view-swept 52nd-floor restaurant—the hotel’s signature venue—glows with warm, hardwood tones of a refined traditional ambiance, with the city’s skyline of architectural wonders spread out just beyond the table. After guests are treated to a traditional-style hand rinsing with warm, fragrant water from an elaborately decorated bowl, an appetiser of rice crackers and paperthin saffron crisps is served with an accompanying trio of dipping sauces— eggplant relish, chicken-tomato and shrimp in coconut milk. This is followed by an amuse bouche of savoury Grilled pork salad with basil and a spring rollwrapped morsel of Stir-fried duck. Occupying the encore-appetizer slot, the Crispy squid legs salad with assorted flowers and coriander-mint is reminiscent of the classic Thai cuisine staple Som Tam salad—served as it is on a bed of shredded apple and young mango, with a small side-pitcher of spicy-sweet sauce that diners add DIY-style. And those familiar with the intricacies of Thai cooking will appreciate the addition of roasted rice to the squid batter—a very nice touch indeed. Course wine pairing: Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Brut, Monsoon Valley, Thailand. A clever tribute to coffee-culture, the Cappuccino coconut broth with grilled Japanese scallop is seasoned with sesbania, galangal and kaffir

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lime leaf. This java-themed creation comes served in a coffee cup with a sumptuous Japanese jumbo scallop skewered on a stalk of lemongrass, and a tuft of coconut foam topped with gold leaf and cinnamon. The Grilled sea bass fillet with sweet and sour sauce, wok-fried cowslip creeper, and sunflower seeds is ocean-fresh and nicely textured, garnished with grilled pineapple and fried shallot. A banana leaf cone is used to cover a side of steamed Riceberry rice, topped with a tiny rosebud, creating a delightful—if not unintentional—festive yuletide tree effect. Course wine pairing: FentinelPinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy. Dessert is a light and refreshing Roselle jelly with lychee foam, garnished with intricately carved bites

of mango and dragon fruit. Course wine pairing: Muscat, Monsoon Valley Hua Hin, Thailand. The exquisite service provided by the very personable and highly knowledgeable wait staff is all about creating the best possible dining experience—inquiries are made regarding any food allergies, and guests are asked their preferred level of spiciness, with each order carefully chilli-seasoned according to individual taste. by Gary Barber

Saffron

52F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com bangkok101.com

CUISINE ART

Introducing “Northern Exposure” This year Ruen Urai new menu offerings are inspired by northern Thailand or Lanna, “Land of Million Rice Fields.” As crossroads of cultures, northern culinary art seamlessly blend local strong characteristics with Burmese, Lao, and Chinese influences into a wealth of lavish dishes, full of flavours and textures. Experience fine Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold.” Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m.

Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel opens from 12 noon to 11 p.m. 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Food Exchange

Healthy weekend buffet satisfies the heart & mind

uffet dinners often conjure up images of overflowing heaps of decadent menu items—from fatty foie gras, to marbled slabs of beef and heart-stopping (literally) hunks of blue cheese and camembert. And while your tastebuds might now be tingling, remember that healthier dining options can be just as flavourful. With this in mind, it’s worth noting that the recently opened Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 hotel is now hosting healthy weekend dinner buffets at Food Exchange, their 200seat, 7th floor restaurant. The concept here is relatively simple. Every Friday and Saturday from 6pm till 10:30pm, just B999 net per person gets you access to an 76 | SEP T EM BER 2016

all-you-can-eat buffet full of healthy dining options. The selections include both Thai and international favourites, while the juicing station supplies diners with a free-flow of healthy fruit smoothies and juices. And while some might bemoan the fact that there’s no red meat on offer, there’s plenty of delicious alternatives to make up for that absence. The restaurant itself is spacious, airy, and well-lit, with blonde wood walls and partitions, Danish-modern chairs, neutrals and grey tones in the floor tiling, and a few splashes of deep blue in the cushioned upholstery of the rounded group table booths. But it’s the food that ultimately commands one’s attention, and two

live-cooking kitchen kiosks are the true centrepieces of the restaurant’s interior. In the aptly named “Japanese corner” the selection of colourful sushi and sashimi is a powerful magnet— several trips were made—but I also found myself drawn to the selection of Middle Eastern treats, including couscous, hummous, falafel, chicken kofta, and pita bread. I also scooped up a healthy dollop of the tangy guacamole, adding a Mexican touch to my increasingly international plate. Both of the restaurant’s kitchen kiosks also offer chef prepared items, which are then delivered to your table. I made a point of sampling the Indonesian Gado Gado salad (steamed vegetables and hard-boiled eggs, with fried tofu, tempeh, bean sprouts, and a yummy peanut sauce dressing) as it’s not often you find this on a Bangkok menu. Other made-toorder items include stir-frys, noodle soups, paellas, and pastas— although I’m still puzzled as to how the deliciously creamy carbonara qualifies as a “fit” food. But the carbonara isn’t the only guilty pleasure available, as a cheesy chicken lasagna, a bechamel-heavy moussaka, and an never ending steam of (mainly vegetarian) pizzas are also on offer. There’s even some delectable desserts to choose from, including a divine mango yoghurt ice cream, and the all-time Thai classic mango with sticky rice. Finally, a well chosen selection of red and white wines are available by the glass (B280-340), or you can accompany your meal with signature cocktails, or imported premium beers. After all, you can be healthy but still have a bit of fun, right? by Bruce Scott

Food Exchange

Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 19/9, Soi Sukhumvit 20 Tel: 02 009 4999 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.novotelbangkoksukhumvit20.com bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Celadon

The timelessly tantalizing flavours of classic Thai cuisine

mid Bangkok’s kaleidoscopic dining scene of fusion, pancontinental, and otherwise creatively merged cuisines, Celadon at the Sukhothai Bangkok hotel is an oasis of traditional Thai cooking at its very best. The stand-alone structure sits just off the hotel’s main entrance at the end of a long drive—the tranquil, leafy stretch providing a welcome buffer from the hotel’s ever-bustling main road frontage—and the authentic cultural ambience helps give the restaurant its award-winning appeal. The interior décor presents a refined, understated contemporary motif, with touches of traditional Thai. The ceiling-high glass walls that frame a surrounding lily pond are lined with a metre-high row of stemmed fronds, which glow green with rays of the setting sun—swaying in unison like a legion of emerald sentries. The ambience is further enhanced by a duo of classical Thai dancers in full costume, whose stoic charm and graceful movements, accompanied by gentling lilting rhythms, enchantingly complete the overall dining experience (dance performances are at 7:30 and 8:30pm). The richly curated menu of meticulously prepared Thai specialties includes Khong Waang (B550), a sumptuous appetizer sampler featuring twin servings of satay pork, crab spring roll, fried shrimp cake, pork dumpling, and fried chicken in pandan leaf. Likewise, the Thai classic starter Miang Kam (B380) is a delightful DIY platter of toasted coconut, dried shrimp, peanut, lime rind, and ginger, with fresh chaplu leaves for wrapping. The kitchen’s signature Yam Som-O Gai Goong (B350) is a refreshing and intensely flavourful salad, combining seedless bites of the tangy Asian grapefruit (pomelo) with chicken and prawns seasoned with tamarind paste and bits of crispy fried shallot. This Thai cuisine heritage specialty item is offered locally only in upper-tier restaurants, and is rarely

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seen on menus of overseas Thai eateries. Meanwhile, the Larb Nuepoo (B550), a spicy crabmeat salad that comes sassily served in martini glass, sees chilled shellfish aggressively seasoned with thin-cut Kaffir lime leaf—the pungent (perhaps bordering on overwhelmingly so) presence of which is tempered by the addition of powdered roasted rice. The Celadon chef also presents “recommended” menu items that change on a regular basis, the most recent being Goong Mangkorn Khao Kluk Taojiewsod—Maine lobster with soya bean paste fried rice—featuring plump chunks of premium imported crustacean tail and claw meat, served with fragrantly herbed fried rice and Thai-style seafood sauce (B1,800). As a sweet coda to the preceding symphony of flavours, Tab Tim Krob

(B350) features ruby-red water chestnut dumplings and diced Jackfruit in a rich-sweet coconut milk broth, while the Khaomao Thod (B350) arrives as a fried banana coated with a crust of young green rice, served with a dollop of creamy-rich house made coconut ice cream. The restaurant also offers diners an extensive list of wines, cocktails, and premium spirits, as well as health and herbal drinks, imported teas, and inventive coffee creations. by Gary Barber

Celadon

The Sukhothai Bangkok 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: noon-3pm, 6:30pm-11pm www.sukhothai.com bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Basil

An epicurean journey through Thailand

erving up four regional Thai cuisines—northern, northeastern, central, and southern—Basil showcases each region’s own distinct flavours and specialities through a lush array of authentic culinary creations. With its regional set menus for two (price ranges from B3,200-3,800), the restaurant lets you take a mouthwatering journey to a specific region, savouring all its unique tastes and tangs. Alternatively, you may also order from the à la carte menu, where you can select from a wide variety of long-standing menu favourites. An ode to the vibrant Thai culture and its cooking styles, each dish is carefully curated by Chef Kesinee and her team and made with exquisite ingredients. Located in the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit hotel, Basil is a vast, modern restaurant that houses sleek dark wood tables alongside mixed coloured chairs and couches in orange, yellow and red. The warm colours and the simplicity of the restaurant adds a sense of modern elegance to the décor. The moment you step in, you

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are greeted by welcoming staff and treated to a complimentary appetizer, miang kham, which are leaf-wrapped salad bites filled with ginger, lime, red onions, dried shrimps, peanuts, and a tamarind sauce. A star on the northeastern menu, Koy tuna (B430) is a fresh take on spicy tuna tartare as it is made Isaan-style. It is a light starter with a burst of complex flavours as the fresh sashimi tuna is mixed with toasted rice powder, mint, lime and lemongrass. Representing central Bangkok, the Yum som o tohu (B390) is a must-try. On top of the shredded pomelo and crunchy water chestnut salad, you may also add prawns for an extra texture element to this delicious appetizer. Another highlight is the Sarong (B460), which involves deep-fried marinated prawns wrapped in golden crisp egg noodles. As for mains, try Salmon yang takrai (B480) and enjoy the subtle fragrance of lemongrass in this grilled salmon. For crunchy, luscious bites of seafood, Poo nim klook nga thord (B440) would make a delightful main to share. Deep-fried with sesame

seeds and served with a sweet tamarind sauce, the soft-shell crab remains moist and juicy within. The dishes are best paired with a refreshing Lychee mojito (B330). When you order from one of the restaurant’s set menus, it is impossible to miss out on sweets as a grand dessert trolley comes by and tempts you with a delectable selection of treats. The Khao niew mamuang (B300), mango and sticky rice, is a Thai classic but Basil adds a unique touch to it by infusing the scent of Jasmine into their rice. Meanwhile the Crème brûlée mapraow orn (B300) is beautifully presented in a coconut halfshell, where you can savour the creamy custard with the silky smooth white coconut flesh. by Anne Wong

Basil

1F, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 649 8366 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, Lunch: Mon-Fri, 12pm-2:30pm www.basilbangkok.com bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread with Philippe Rusin

Discussing Thailand’s constantly evolving coffee culture

espite having a coffee cart at every pak soi in downtown Bangkok, finding a good cup that isn’t burnt or diluted in syrup is quite difficult. Fortunately, the last few years have seen this city’s coffee culture gaining momentum and going niche market. Specialty coffee joints headed by world champion baristas and roasters are fast becoming the trend. And making its imprint on this movement is D’ARK, a café brand 82 | SEP TEM BER 2016

with two outlets in Bangkok, and whose coffee beans are supplied by award-winning Australian roaster Phillip Di Bella. We find ourselves at the D’ARK flagship store in EmQuartier where it’s not only hard to find a spot to sit, but also get the café’s general manager Philippe Rusin to sit still for a moment. It’s a busy Saturday afternoon at the restaurant, and all hands are on deck for the brunchers pouring in.

The interior here is minimalistic and stylish, with a coffee-coloured palette and furnishings, abstract artwork, and exposed vintage lighting. The floor-to-ceiling glass windows provide soothing views of the mall’s famous indoor waterfall— complementing the casual ambience of the place. In case you want to people-watch, there’s plenty of seating available outside, with room even for pets. bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

Philippe finally joins us over a bottle of Vouvray and our first course of a spicy Maine lobster ceviche. “The basic idea to start a coffee cart in Asia came when three entrepreneurs, Di Bella, J.S. Gill (of the Singaporean-based Gill Capital), and Philippe Lassaux all met in Brisbane,” he starts off by explaining. As we dig into the refreshing combination of lobster, red onion, avocado, and a secret dressing, Philippe tells us that their first destination of choice, Singapore, didn’t quite pan out and hence they decided to break ground in Bangkok. “Our first outlet in Piman 49, which opened in July of 2015, helped us show what we were able to do and deliver in terms of quality of coffee and technique, taste and food.” We are soon on to our next offering of Snow pea—done al dente— with pecorino cheese shavings, and Guanciale cured pork cheek that just melts on our palates. But don’t let the simplicity of the dish fool you, the nutty and flavourful pork and mild cheese totally wins you over. Simultaneously we try the Pan-seared tuna salad comprising organic eggs, lettuce, olives, red onion, vinegar and wine-infused cherry tomatoes and dressing. Philippe bangkok101.com

pairs these dishes with one of their single origin coffees. We try the Peruvian, which is his best seller. The drink is smooth and goes very well with our entrees. “Each single origin has its own ID, much like wine, and comes with a card that educates you about the country of origin, region, estate, and sometimes the farmer too,” he points out. For each cup, this coffee crusader informs me, they use 20-22 grams of coffee, which is more than the usual 10 grams served everywhere else. “The demand for coffee is growing in Thailand, but they mainly grow Robusta in the north, which is low-grade coffee,” he grimaces. “They also grow Arabica single origin in Chiang Mai, but the production is still quite limited. Di Bella sources for D’ARK a much wider offer of single origins from small farmers all over the world,” he adds. On this note, we dive into our main dish, a medium rare Flank steak with beurre maître d’hotel sauce comprised of shallots, French butter, and parsley with a side of fries and salad. The dish is not only dangerously delicious but extremely rich, all thanks to the sauce (a classic French recipe).

To this dish, Philippe recommends the Kenyan—a medium-bodied Arabica with a sweet and floral aroma. It’s light and goes well with our main. So is it hard converting the masses? “It’s challenging,” Philippe admits. “The market here is 90 percent full of instant coffee, and iced lattes sweetened with condensed milk. The coffee chains dominating the market offer crazy frappucinos with a whole lot of toppings. But that’s not real coffee. All of our coffee is rated over 80 in the market, that is why we are different.” Philippe manages every aspect of this outlet, from the coffee bar out front to the kitchen at the back. But this fortysomething workaholic admits he can’t do everything, which is where he puts all faith in his Executive Chef Sorapol ‘Tangmo’ Sukpanich—a graduate from Le Cordon Bleu Australia—and his head barista Sirichai ‘Bank’ Saebee. “It’s about teamwork and I have a great team here,” he continues, “perfection and consistency is the most difficult thing to achieve, but we strive to do it and the results are rewarding.” interview by Reena Karim-Hallberg www.darkoffee.com SEP TEM BER 2016 | 83

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

Crispy Crepe

o matter how many times I go to the Nang Loeng community market, I never get bored of the food there. And if you don’t yet know what it is, let me tell you what, how, where, when, and why! Nang Loeng is the name of an old settlement community that dates back more than two centuries. This community has been a longtime trading hub and is rich in its own cultural treasures, such as the Salachalermthani Cinema, traditional chatree dances from the south of Thailand, and even traditional gamelan orchestras (wong pibhart). Even though the era of its glory-days has passed, the community is still breathing, and carrying on in its own way. And it is still famed for its splendid food. On my recent visit to Nang Loeng, I went to try a new (to me) old dish called Khanom Beung Yuan Ya Cham or ‘Grandmother Cham’s Crepe’. (Which is also the name of the restaurant). Once I touched down at the market, I marched through the wonders on display, making my way towards the old wooden cinema—still standing strong yet in frail shape, like a distinguished elderly man. When I reached the left hand corner of the building I turned right into the small

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel 84 | SEP TEM BER 2016

alley across the way, and just inside the mouth of the soi, on the left hand side, I saw the sunshine of a wok over the orange flame of a burning charcoal stove. One deep inhalation of the intoxicating aromas and my appetite was piqued! Here I saw creamy white bean flour batter being poured into the wok by the skillful hands of chef Khun Oan, who spread it out into the shape of the satellite dishes you find on all the roofs of our Thai houses. I love, love, loved watching how the food was made as much as the taste to come. This khanom beung continues to use the same recipe from Khun Oan’s grandmother, who began by making every main ingredient from scratch. From the blanket of khanom beung to the stuffing inside, everything is carefully prepared and seasoned according to the original recipe. Her bean flour has a beautifully light and fresh fragrance and a soft yellow colour that comes from adding natural turmeric essence. After spreading the crepe blanket into the hot work, Khun Oan layers

on the seasoned stuffing of slightly salted shredded coconut with shrimp, a hint of light sweetness from pickled turnip, and the creamy taste of tofu. This secret touch in the stuffing brought a big smile to my face, as did my first bite—and that was even without adding the homemade, honey-colored, sweet and sour topping that’s made fresh everyday. Placing a little bit of everything into one bite made my day! If you want to get khanom beung with egg, Khun Oan will layer an egg on top of the crepe while cooking it with the same stuffing—this version is wrapped in a square instead of being rolled up, and is less crispy than its sister crepe. Both versions have their own character and are equally delicious. This is a snack out of which you can make a whole meal. I’ll be back for more for sure! Khanom Beung Yuan Ya Cham is located on Soi Nakhornsawan 4, Talad Nang Loeng. It’s open everyday from 10am to 5pm. Khun Oan can also cater for private events. bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE M Krub

Picture perfect Cantonese cuisine that is so beautifully presented you almost won’t want to eat it—but that hesitation won’t last long. Splurge on the exquisite mains but keep room for their wonderful Chinese desserts. 96 Mahanakorn Cube Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd. Tel: 02 019 8105 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.facebook.com/MkrubMahanakhon

The Mayflower

Authenticity is the name of the game and the menu here is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-ofwar over the Lazy Susan. Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 200 9000 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.dusit.com

11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Lunch, Mon-Sat, noon-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

Savelberg

French in flavour and elegance, but imbued with influences from the Netherlands, the food is befitting the chef’s pedigree and befitting of the restaurant’s refined ambience. GF, Oriental Residence Bangkok, Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 252 8001 Open: Mon-Sat, 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.savelbergth.com

GERMAN

Charcoal

No sloppy curries swimming in ghee–only sophisticated interpretations of tandoorgrilled delicacies enjoyed by the Moghuls of old, and a unique selection of cocktails with intriguing Indian twists. 5F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 089 307 1111 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.charcoalbkk.com

Rang Mahal

Meaning “palace of colours,” there sure is a courtly air about the place, down to the refined, delicate food. The proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs and curries come out. 26F, Rembrandt Hotel 19, Sukhumvit Soi 18 Tel: 02 261 7100 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.rembrandtbkk.com

INTERNATIONAL

FRENCH Sühring

Sühring

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

The classic cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You might even find yourself trying to re-create certain ones the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com

La Vie

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at the elegant new La Vie restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination. 86 | SEP TEM BER 2016

German gastronomy comes alive using modern techniques and high-quality ingredients, while still following traditional flavour profiles. The kitchen is helmed by a pair of identical twin chefs, and the results are like nothing you’ll see anywhere else. 10, Yen Akat Soi 3 Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.facebook.com/suhringshome

INDIAN Bawarchi

The kind of curries you’ve been missing— rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious. Check out any one of Bawarchi’s Bangkok four locations. BF, Intercontinental Chidlom 973 Ploenchit Rd, Tel: 02 656 0101-3 1F, Ambassador Hotel Sukhumvit Soi11, Tel: 02 253 2394 India-Thai Chamber of Commerce Building, Sathorn Soi 1, Sathorn Rd, Tel: 02 677 6249 20/11, Sukhumvit Soi 4, Tel: 02 656 7357 www.bawarchiindian.com

Blu36

Peruvian cuisine is explored at the newly opened resto, with various dishes influenced by Peru’s long-time Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese and Italian. Sukhumvit Soi 36 Tel: 02 661 5448 Open daily: 3pm-midnight www.facebook.com/BLU36Bangkok

Char

The amount of fantastic French and Mediterranean dishes (with a few Thai touches) that this busy rooftop restaurant can churn out in an evening means one visit most likely won’t be nearly enough. 25F-26F, Hotel Indigo 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK GF, MahaNakhon Cube, Tel: 02 023 1616 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, The Waterfall Quartier, Tel: 0 2261 0464 1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57, Wireless Rd, Tel: 0 2108 2200 www.deandeluca.com/thailand Coconut Terrace

Coconut Terrace

This small hotel outlet takes an equally compact menu—five starters, a few soups, a few fish, and meat mains—and creates big flavours. Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside, 72/4 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 02 688 1000 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.ramamaplazamenamriverside.com

Elements

An imposing space with a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” the menu is divided into an à la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a delicious vegetarian option. 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.okurabangkok.com

Crepes & Co

The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat. 59/4, Langsuan Soi 1, Tel: 02 652 0208 GF, EmQuartier, Tel: 095 251 5233 Thonglor Soi 8, Tel: 02 726 9398 7F, CentralWorld, Tel: 092 663 1386 www.facebook.com/crepesnco

Dean & Deluca

This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients.

bangkok101.com

Eat Me

Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town. Trust us! Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

Park Society

Excite both your taste buds and eyes with a cutting-edge, elegant dinner overlooking Lumpini Park and the amazing skyline of Bangkok. Perfect for a romantic evening or a friendly get-together. Sofitel So Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: Kitchen 6pm-10:30pm, Bar 5pm-2am www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com

Red Oven

Styled as a World Food Market, this 7th-floor all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. On weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet. 7F, Sofitel So Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com

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FOOD & DRINK | listings

Scarlett

For many Bangkok residents this sky-high restaurant, with amazing city views, is one of those places that forever remains on the “favourite” list. Try their new salt aged beef main dishes, or choose from an array of superb daily specials. Pullman Bangkok Hotel G 37F, 188 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 1991 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.pullmanbangkokhotelg.com

The Girl and The Pig

No place is more surprising, or more in keeping with the international theme. This is a perfect spot for everything from ample brunches, to romantic dates. 5F, Central Embassy Tel: 084 194 6629 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/thegirlandthepig

The Kitchen Table

Seasonal Tastes

This all-day dining restaurant serves an enticing range of gourmet international cuisine in a visually dramatic setting which features open kitchens and live cooking stations. The Westin Grande Sukhumvit 259, Sukhumvit 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 6am-11pm www.westingrandesukhumvit.com

ITALIAN Attico

The moment you step off the lift and into the spacious, rustic-bricked forecourt the ‘cultural acclimation’ begins at this Italian restaurant specializing in the cuisine of Tuscany. Bellissimo! 28F, Radisson Blu Plaza, 489 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 302 3333 Open: Mon-Sat, noon-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm Sun, dinner service only www.radissonblu.com

The Kitchen Table

Seasonal Tastes

MahaNakhon Cube Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Open daily: 10am-late Tel: 02 001 0697 www.voguelounge.com

A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, expect good food and a modern ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles. 2F, W Bangkok Hotel, 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 Open daily: 6:30am-10:30pm www.whotelsbangkok.com/thekitchen_table

Jojo

Vogue Lounge

Jojo

This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and formerly chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks.

One of the few outlets proudly flying the flag for Venetian fare, with imported ingredients conjuring authentic flavours of the Veneto. It has a magnificent wine cellar too. The St Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 207 7815 Open daily: noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm www.stregisbangkok.com

Kiosk@Thebarkyard Sukhumvit soi 26 Follow us on instagram : kioskcafe 65 Sukhumvit soi 26 (soi Thanpuying), Klongtoey, Bangkok. Tel : 02 259 4089 www.kiosk-cafe.com facebook:kioskcafe

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bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK

Luce

Seated beside the Eastin Grand Sathorn’s infinity pool, the focus is on authentic Tuscan fare enliven the culinary senses accompanied by a fine selection of wines from Frescobaldi. 14F, Eastin Grand Hotel 33/1 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 210 8100 Open daily: noon-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm www.facebook.com/LuceRestaurantBangkok

8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 259, Sukhumvit 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com

KOREAN Joha

A cozy little Korean restaurant tucked away in the cool semi-suburban neighborhood of Ari, offering a fresh take on authentic Korean cuisine together with a chic, contemporary interior. 59/2, Soi Phahonyothin 7 Tel: 097 247 9777 Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-9pm www.facebook.com/Johakoreanrestaurant

MIDDLE EASTERN

Volti

Volti Ristorante & Bar

This spacious riverside restaurant offers authentic modern Italian dishes, accompanied by great live music, with indoor and outdoor seating. Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.shangri-la.com/bangkok

JAPANESE Benihana

At the centre of every table is a hot grill, where a chef cooks for you, stimulating appetites with a deft and close-range slicing of onions, zucchini, shrimp, pork, steak—even the fried rice. Avani Atrium Bangkok 1880 Petchaburi Rd. Tel: 02 718 2023 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.avanihotels.com

Kisso

Combining a modern mastery of time-honoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, this is one of the top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. bangkok101.com

Arabesque

The menu is as pure Egyptian as the fixtures. Includes Middle Eastern favourites such as hummus, moussaka and tagine (clay pot stews), as well as dishes you may not recognize. 68/1, Sukhumvit Soi 2, Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 656 9440-1 Open daily: noon-midnight www.arabesquebangkok.com

MEXICAN Mexicano

Formerly Señor Pico, Bangkok’s original Mexican restaurant, this new incarnation builds on a foundation of outstanding Mexican cuisine. 2F, Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok 19, Sukhumvit Soi 18 Tel: 02 261 7100 Open daily: 5pm-12am Sat brunch 12pm-3pm www.facebook.com/mexicanobkk SEP TEM BER 2016 | 89

FOOD & DRINK | listings

La Monita Taqueria

If you’re looking for classic, affordable, Mexican fare that still packs some serious fireworks, then check out any of La Monita’s three downtown locales. Load up on guacamole, burritos, fajitas, quesadillas, and soft corn tacos, all washed down with some wonderfully potent margaritas. Mahatun Plaza, Tel: 02 650 9581 GF, Siam Paragon, Tel: 02 650 9581 7F, EmQuartier, Tel: 02 003 6238 www.lamonita.com

SEAFOOD

SPANISH/LATIN Barcelona Gaudí

The chef and founding partners are proud of their Catalonian heritage, and it shows in the incredible tapas on the menu, from prawns in aioli to crema catalana and the traditional Sunday paella. Mucho gusto! Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit 23 Tel: 02 661 7410 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-11pm www.barcelona-thai.com

THAI Baan Rub Rong

One of the few restaurants in the area that we can confidently say is worth the effort to track down. A plainly attired, affordable bastion of very good Thai food, made the old-fashioned way. 8 Soi Mooban Seri Villa (Srinakarin Soi 55) Tel: 02 185 6029 Open: 10am-10pm www.baanrubrong.com Raw Bar

Raw Bar

Oysters, tartare, carpaccio, ceviche: it’s all raw here, and it’s all very good. A nice low-key spot to shuck some shellfish and hang out with friends. 440/9, Sukhumvit 55 Tel: 02 713 8335 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight www.facebook.com/TheRawBarBKK

Laem Charoen Seafood

Offering a wide range of other seafood delicacies—all straight from the sea—this seafood restaurant has been growing in stature while staying true to its original roots. Reliability and customer satisfaction has made it one of the best seafood restaurants in town. 4F, Siam Paragon 991, Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 610 9244 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.laemcharoenseafood.com

The Oyster Bar

You know a restaurant takes seafood seriously when several pages of the menu are devoted entirely to oysters. 395, Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 Tel: 02 212 4809 Open: Mon-Sat, 6pm-11pm, Sun, noon-10pm www.theoysterbarbangkok.com 90 | SEP TEM BER 2016

Centara Watergate Pavilion Hotel 567 Ratchaprarop Rd. Tel: 02 625 1234 Open daily: 5pm-11pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: noon-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

VIETNAMESE Le Dalat

Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant (and cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Chili Hip

Wide, unobstructed skyline views from an open-air perch over Pratunam, and a menu consisting mostly of authentic Thai and Asian inspired flavours. There is almost no covered seating, so bear that in mind when the rains come.

The newest branch of stately Le Dalat finds it in unusual territory—a high-end shopping mall—but its fresh Vietnamese fare is still as impeccable as ever. 7F, The Emquartier Mall 651 Sukhumvit Rd,Tel: 02 269 1000 Open daily: 10am-10pm 57, Soi Prasarnmitr Sukhumvit 23, Tel: 02 259 9593 Open daily: Lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, Dinner 5:30pm-10:30pm www.ledalatbkk.com

VEGETARIAN Broccoli Revolution

The brick-walled warehouse turned veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in the most stubborn carnivore. 899 Sukhumvit Rd. (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 Open daily: 7am-10pm Facebook: Broccoli Revolution bangkok101.com

NIGHTLIFE |

Beer, burgers and babesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it all spells Hooters 92 | SEP T EM BER 2016

bangkok101.com

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE give a hoot

After its Bangkok debut last year, the renowned American-style restaurant and sports bar HOOTERS—famous for its chicken wings, beer, and zaftig female staff—is celebrating its first birthday on SEPTEMBER 15th at its Sukhumvit 15 location, on the ground floor of the FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON (not to be confused with the Hooters Bangkok outlet located across from Nana Plaza). The double-barrelled anniversary party will be hosted by celebrity emcee Niwatawong Anuwat, with special guest Aum Lakkana, the Hooters Thailand brand ambassador. Expect great music from DJ Mikey Mike, and bouncey dance performances by the Hooter Girls crew. Doors are open to public at 7pm, and entry is free.

a month behind bars Bars in Bangkok continue popping up like mushrooms, and this past month has been no exception. BEER BELLY is the latest member of the 72 COURTYARD (Sukhumvit Soi 55) family, and this spacious beer hall offers tons of craft and draft beer, pub fare, live music, and lots of games—chess, Jenga, pool, ping pong… you name it!—to make sure customers interact and have fun. Not enough for ya? Then check out the 90s inspired SPEC BAR located in the ACMEN COMPLEX (between Ekkamai Sois 13 and 15). This seductively nostalgic hot-spot offers up Asian fusion food paired with a wide selection of beers, whiskeys, and cocktails.

the hair keeps growing By the time you read this the second branch of HAIR OF THE DOG craft beer bar will have opened its doors. Located near the Phrom Phong BTS station (Sukhumvit Soi 33/1), this new space promises to be slightly larger, but will still maintain the bare bones aesthetic of the original location in MAHATUN PLAZA—polished concrete floors and walls, offset by clinical stainless steel countertops. There will also be over a dozen rotating beers on tap, and an even larger selection of rare brews from around the world.

battling brewmasters Beer enthusiasts take note… the 1st SIAMESE CRAFT BEER COMPETITION is set to take place at Chinatown’s CHO WHY art space (Soi Nana 17, Pom Prap Sattru Phai) on SEPTEMBER 3rd. This contest is sponsored by the folk from Craft Brewery Is not a Crime, with the aim of developing the burgeoning craft beer industry in Thailand. The contest categories include competitions for the best brewers of the following types of beers: Pale Ale, IPA, AmberRed Ale, Stout, D.IPA, Stout, Weizen (wheat beer), and more. The contest has no registration fee, and will begin at 3pm. Look up “craft brewery is not a crime” on Facebook for more info.

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NIGHTLIFE | review

Rarb

Unreal cocktails in an unlikely corner bar

angkok boasts bars specialising in bourbon, gin, whisky, and even mezcal. So it should be clear the drinking scene here has reached pretty rarefied heights. Plus, if all the recent events headlined by visiting bartenders are any indication, the city might soon stand shoulderto-shoulder with some of Asia’s heavy hitters, like Singapore, Hong Kong, and Shanghai. But if the variety of spirit-focused enclaves and guest appearances aren’t proof enough, consider the fact that the Old Town, a quarter of the capital oversupplied with anything-goes nightclubs, beer buffets, and booze bucket bars, now claims its very own craft cocktail mecca, Rarb. Run by the people behind Escapade Burgers & Shakes, Rarb sits in a hipster-chic, glass-encased nook on Phra Arthit Road, across from Escapade and in front of Sheepshank. The paper menu centres on five signature drinks (B320-340) scrawled in sharpie pen. Each has a name, meant to represent its qualities, that borders on absurd—Lovely Whore,

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Fuck My Farm, Fake Wedding, etc. But the drinks change often, so it’s best to ask the staff about the current specials. Or check their Instagram (@rarbbyescapade), where, as he does for Escapade’s one-off shakes, cofounder and barman Karn Liangsrisuk announces limited-edition drinks. Karn is a bit of a mad scientist, a soft-spoken but zealous experimenter who is as dead-set about perfectionism as he is doing things his own way. Rather than placing glasses in the fridge, where he believes they could be contaminated by foreign smells, he chills them with chunked ice that he pitches after one use. He also spritzes glasses with dry vermouth to remove unwanted odours and tastes. Beyond bar-keeping tics, however, Karn gets serious. On the counter rests a small barrel full of Negroni he has aged since the day Rarb opened. The finished product has an edge, thanks to the flavours of Menorca’s cult gin Xoriguer and the oak barrel (aged Negroni, B450). In a slightly smaller barrel on the shelf is an aged Martinez (B450), a blend of

sweet Italian vermouth and gin that typically appeals to fans of the classics. Barrel-aging only marks a starting point, though. Karn also makes his own limoncello, umeshu, and sangria. The umeshu, the 20-month aged version in particular (B550), is a rare find. With a hint of spice on the nose, it finishes with a beautiful balance of sweetness and tartness. And while the umeshu is immaculate, the sangria truly reveals the barman’s remarkable attention to detail. It’s complexly layered, an infusion enriched by spare parts from Rarb’s arsenal of homemade products: a spoonful of homemade maraschino cherry liqueur, some brandy informed by lemongrass and snow pear, a touch of lavender. Celebrate, Bangkokians! The Old Town hasn’t had a cocktail bar this exciting… well, ever. by Craig Sauers

Rarb

47/1 Phra Arthit Rd. Tel: 08 1406 3773 Open: Tues-Sun, 5pm-midnight instagram.com/rarbbyescapade bangkok101.com

Tranquil Tropical Getaways at The Oriental Kwai Resort

Nestled amongst the exquisite greenery of Kanchanaburi’s tropical forested landscape, The Oriental Kwai Resort is the perfect getaway retreat.

Cozy cottages sit serenely in a tranquil tropical garden, providing guests with plenty of opportunity to relax amidst the peaceful natural surroundings. Meanwhile the resort’s riverfront restaurant offers visitors all-day dining deals complete with panoramic views of the majestic River Kwai.

Close and Convenient Located just 150 km from Bangkok, the resort is easily accessible by taxi and minivan.Once here, the our bike services are available for guests wanting to explore the town, and long-tail boats can also be arranged for scenic visits to the famous River Kwai Bridge.

In addition, the Oriental Kwai Resort is a mere twenty minutes’ drive to either Kanchanaburi town or the world-famous Erawan waterfalls—making it a very central location for sightseeing in the area.

Book your holiday getaway now, and discover Kanchanaburi with us! Oriental Kwai Resort | 194/5, Moo 1, Amphur Muang Tambon Ladya, Kanchanaburi Tel: 03 458 8168 | www.orientalkwai.com

NIGHTLIFE | imbibe

Opening Pandora’s Box The secrets to Char’s superbly smoked cocktail revealed

Considering Napaphat Juengdeesomjai’s nickname, it certainly sounds like she’s in the right industry. But ‘Beer’, as her friends call her, isn’t filling pints from the tap. She’s crafting cracking cocktails with smart, sophisticated twists at Bangkok’s buzziest new rooftop bar and restaurant, Char, located on the 25th and 26th floors of the Hotel Indigo. A self-professed fan of the classics, Beer took her talents to even higher grounds with the support of Francesco Moretti, the renowned barman who helped design Char’s signature cocktails. “We like to make drinks that get our guests talking,” she says, whilst showing off a house-made, bubble gum-pink bottle of strawberry-infused vodka. Seeing people enjoying and talking about her cocktails is “the best part of my job,” she adds. Beer then reveals her favourite drink right now: Pandora’s Box, Char’s playful spinoff of the world’s most popular cocktail, the Old Fashioned. The cocktail combines elements of time-honoured and cutting-edge trends. For the young bartender, it hits all the right notes. 96 | SEP TEM BER 2016

When Beer gets to work, things start normally enough. She muddles Angostura bitters and sugar, preps some orange peel for later use, and pulls out a bottle of Chivas Regal Extra. There’s a good reason she prefers this rich blend of Scotch whiskies for Pandora’s Box. Chivas Regal Extra uses malt whiskies matured in ex-Oloroso sherry fill casks, imparting the whisky with a sweet fruitiness on the nose and complex tasting notes that round out the finish. How that lightly smoky flavour plays in to Pandora’s Box becomes clear when Beer reveals a couple of the special tools in her arsenal—a smoke machine and a glass dome. After Beer has mixed the sugar and bitters with Chivas Regal Extra, she twists orange peel over the mix, runs it around the rim of the glass to lend some wonderful zesty aroma, and drops a maraschino cherry steeped in whisky into the drink. Then she covers the cocktail with the glass dome and places applewood bourbon chips in a little cylinder, igniting them. Suddenly smoke plumes like white clouds, surrounding the amber drink. “I love the way this smells,” she says, removing the glass dome, the perfume filling the air. The aromatic smoke pulls out the underlying tasting notes in the Chivas Regal Extra— bangkok101.com

imbibe | NIGHTLIFE

ripe pear sweetness amplified by the whisky’s complex luscious aroma. It’s a tantalising match. Between the boozy cherry and the applewood smoke, Pandora’s Box gives the Old Fashioned new dimensions. And this shift from the norm underscores the effect that the Char team has achieved at this lively rooftop bar hovering high above Wireless Road. The al fresco bar overlooks leafy Embassy Row, perched directly across the road from the US Ambassador’s residence. From the deck, the landscape below looks incredible—Dutch,

Vietnamese, and US Embassy grounds rimmed by rows of high-rises, with Lumpini Park gleaming green and gold on the horizon. As the late-day breeze blows in and the sun settles behind the silvery sky towers, the glittering lights of Bangkok’s urban skyline come into view. For Beer, as well as the packed crowds that fill the deck from 5pm onward each evening, there’s no better way to recognise the beauty and charm of the Thai capital than with some of Char’s brilliant cocktails at sundown, and on into the vibrant night.

Pandora’s Box · · · · · · · ·

Wet down a sugar cube with 3 dashes of Angostura bitters over a rocks glass Rotate the glass whilst stirring, to line it with the sugar and bitters Add a single large piece of rock ice Pour in 50ml of Chivas Regal Extra and stir well to combine Drop in a bourbon- or whisky-soaked maraschino cherry Place Applewood chips in a smoke machine; cover the glass with a mason glass dome Light the chips, filling the glass dome with their smoke for about one minute Release the cover, breathe in the aroma, and enjoy!

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NIGHTLIFE | connoisseur corner

Wine News & Events By Bruce Scott

Photo by Nipon Riabriang

ine appreciation in Bangkok, among Thais and expat residents alike, has been flourishing over the past few years, and despite the heavy taxes imposed on reds, whites, and sparklings, the demand for high quality vino continues to grow. As a result, the number of specially curated wine tasting events and wine pairing dinners across town has increased substantially. This month there are several events that every oenophile should know about. From September 8th to 11th, at Bo.lan Restaurant (24, Sukhumvit Soi 53 Alley), a very unique wine and cuisine pairing night gets underway as three women—all leaders in their fields—come together to curate an event full of passion, skill and knowledge. Be treated to freshly cooked Thai food that concentrates on local, organic, and seasonal produce, prepared by Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava (voted Best Female Chef in Asia 2013), using interpretations of century old recipes. The meal will be paired with new latitude wines from Thailand’s own Gran Monte vineyard, where Nikki Lohitnavy (pictured, left)—the first and only fully-qualified Thai winemaker—creates the family’s award-winning vintages. Pairing the wines and food will be Benjawan ‘Ben’ Wisootsat, the woman behind Bangkok-based Fin Wines. It’s well known that pairing wine with Thai food can be challenging, which is why a detailed knowledge of the cuisine and the wine is definitely required. The dinners run from 6pm to 10:30pm, and you can reserve a table by calling 02 260 2962 or visiting www.bolan.co.th. Another notable series of wine dinners are those being organized by locally based wine importers Gfour Fine Wines. From September 27th to October 1st, at Jojo restaurant in the St. Regis Hotel (159 Ratchadamri Rd), two-Michelin star Chef Ciccio Sultano, from Duomo Restaurant in Italy, will be preparing amazing 5-course Sicilian baroque style dinners. For more information contact: www.gfour.co.th. Meanwhile, events running on a continuous basis include Tuesday wine nights at the Diplomat Bar at the Conrad Bangkok hotel (87 Wireless Rd). Here the theme, for the next few months anyway, is 100 percent French; meaning superb French wines, delectable French cheeses, and French chanteuse performing French songs

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The Godfather, Crystal Park

accompanied by a small band. The wines—white, red, and rose—are available by the bottle but also by the glass, giving customers a unique opportunity to try stellar vintages such as the Gigonda, Les Reinages 2011 (B840/ B4,200) that was available the evening I visited. The cheeses, priced in 50g portions, are also top-notch—don’t miss trying the Fourme Au Sauternes (blue cheese) and the deep orange Mimolette Françoise (pressed cheese). An upcoming daytime event, organized by Wine Garage, will be the Strings & Grapes: Spiritual taking place on September 11th at the Neilson Hays Library (195 Surawong Rd). The matinee program will feature “spiritual music” pieces by Mozart, Beethoven, Sibelius, Fauré and Ravel and will be performed by the Bangkok Chamber Orchestra, and conducted by Laurent Couson. Tickets are B800, which includes a glass of wine, and the event starts at 5pm. Call 02 233 1731 to reserve a spot. Finally, wine lovers in the north end of the city will be happy to know that Godfather Wine Boutique, the specialty wine store located on the 5th floor of Central Embassy, has just opened a 2nd branch at Crystal Park, the sprawling lifestyle shopping mall on Praditmanutham Rd (Ladphrao). The wood-cellar themed interior is inspired by the classic 1972 film The Godfather, with dimmed lighting and dark wood finishing similar to the flagship store. The majority of wines sold here have been scored between 90 points to 100 points from the Wine Spectator and Robert Parker rating systems. Meanwhile the knowledgeable staff can answer all your questions about wines, whiskies, and cigars. This new outlet is semiintegrated with Brassiere by Water Library restaurant, and products purchased at the shop can be consumed in the restaurant without corkage fees. bangkok101.com

NIGHTLIFE | live music

The Rock Philosopher By Dave Crimaldi

his month, September 9th marks a return of Popscene, the event promoter that bestowed local music fans with such mythically exceptional shows as Thee Oh Sees at Cosmic Cafe. This time around we’ve got Chicago native actor/songstress Haroula Rose gracing the pavement of Whiteline (Silom Soi 8). While I cannot really judge worthiness of folk music from studio recordings, the ‘PopMatters 20 Questions’ was intriguing: she identifies both with the serial killing protagonist of Bret Easton Ellis’ dystopian fantasy American Psycho, and claims psychic ability—so far she‘s ticking all the boxes. It’s B300 on the door, with local support by John Will Sail and King Kong & The Chums. The following evening, September 10th, Get A Life Denim presents Hope The Flower, Lasthoper, and The Front Row at the slightly off-the-beaten-track Brownstone Studio (1395, Sukhumvit Soi 77, BTS On Nut station). Hope The Flower is a faithful representative of this city’s fanatical post-rock community (check out the Newlights Production record label page on Facebook).

Listen Up! If you found yourself suffocating in the stifling heat and humidity of Southeast Asia, and were seeking the rustic comfort of the American Mid-West, look no further then After The Oil Rush, the recently released EP by Ryan Holweger. Ryan, a Minnesota transplant to Bangkok, shares his solemn hymns for lonesome souls, shaped by desolate, open spaces. Reflect on the stirring winds, smoke billowing chimneys, and snow-covered rooftops while nursing a cold Leo by the pool. This is home cooked country music with a side of mashed potatoes. The title track, “After The Oil Rush”, seems like something straight off the Brokeback Mountain soundtrack. In fact, all the songs have the kind of familiarity that one has with a favourite sweater or family pet. Within the tradition of great American music for the common folk there is the songwriter, the musicians, and an unspoken character. If you listen carefully you might just hear him between the notes. You can purchase a copy of After the Oil Rush, released by Other Road Records, at the EP release party at Fatty’s Bar and Diner (598/66 AsokeDindaeng Rd) on September 3rd. Ryan will perform, along with special guests John Will Sail and Matthew Fischer.

Photo of The Ginks by Dave Crimaldi

www.facebook.com/otherroadrecords

September 17th is a Saturday triple suicide mission. First off, Seen Scene Space brings us Pow Fest #2 at Rockademy (120/8, Sukhumvit Soi 26) with a smorgasbord of performances. Of the eight bands on the roster I’ll be most keen to see Comet Records’ dream wave band 100 | SEP TEM BER 2016

Vivid Dream and Taiwan’s visiting indie rock flag bearers Manic Sheep. Meanwhile, at Speakerbox (located in the Ratchada Train Night Market) Count The Thief and The Ginkz are playing—two bands pushing the boundaries of progressive rock music without alienating shortattentioned audiences. Finally, at Brownstone Studio, Austin’s own My Empty Phantom delivers complex ambient soundscapes as a one man band utilizing looping technology. Expect to see a guy jumping from instrument to instrument at the beginning of each piece. The show starts at 7pm (B200, includes a drink). To read more about Bangkok’s music scene, visit The Rock Philosopher at davecrimaldi.weebly.com bangkok101.com

club report | NIGHTLIFE

The DJ Booth By Pongphop Songsiriarcha

angkok’s DJ scene is loud and proud, and September promises to be another busy month for club goers and party people of every persuasion. On September 1st the Dutch EDM duo Glow In The Dark—Albert Harvey and Kevin Ramos—arrives in Bangkok for a gig at Levels (Sukhumvit Soi 11). The duo, who released their debut single ‘Electronic Life’ in 2010, became famous for their collaboration with David Guetta on the huge hit “Ain’t a Party”. This event, however, will indeed be a party, and things get underway at 9pm. Tickets are B350, including 1 drink.

Zimmer

DJ Snake

On September 2nd the recently opened Space999 (Sukhumvit Soi 15) is hosting a Singles Masquerade Party, starting at 8pm and running till 2am (at least). Prepare for a night of mystery with other masked marauders, and move to the tech-house sounds of DJs Prosonus, and Adiero+Nukier. Admission is free, with drink specials from 8pm till 10pm, and complimentary snacks at 10pm. www.space999.com On September 8, trailblazing DJ and producer Zimmer (Roche Musique) will be appearing at Live RCA (Rama 9 Rd). Raised both in France and California, this multi-talented musical stylist is best known for his tropical twists on house and disco favourites, and he brings with him enough good vibes to last the whole night long. He’s also been making a name through his blog-hit remixes, but catching him doing a live DJ set is not to be missed. The party starts at 9pm. If you can’t make the trip to Koh Phangan this month, check out the Fullmoon Party at Asiatique, The Riverfront, which runs from September 8th to the 9th. This dance music festival, presented by Sangsom Thai whiskey, features eight different DJs performing over the course of two consecutive evenings. On Thursday night check out headliners Yellow Claw, a DJ team from bangkok101.com

Amsterdam, then on Friday get ready for headliner DJ Snake. Ticket prices range from B1,500 to B1,800, with special VIP passes priced at B2,800. Visit www.zaapparty.com for more info. Later in the month the ‘EPIC Trance Series’ continues at Live RCA. On September 16th, starting from 9pm, Dutch trance and house music producer and DJ Mark Sixma will headline the party, playing the finest in progressive trance. He has toured globally alongside such performers as Armin van Buuren, Ferry Corsten, and W&W, but this night the spotlight is on him alone.

Dash Berlin

Live RCA is also the spot for the city’s best throwdown on September 22nd when Hype Events brings Londonbased Stööki Sound to Bangkok for the very first time. Comprised of DJs Lukey and Jelacee, this UK duo creates truly unique sounds, blending their respective musical backgrounds in UK Bass, Grime, and Trap. The party kicks off at 9pm and definitely will not finish till late. Check out all this month’s Live RCA events at www.facebook.com/livercabangkok. Finally, one of the city’s most anticipated water festivals—Waterzonic—returns to Bangkok, running from September 30th to October 1st. This will be the 3rd installment of Bangkok’s wettest and wildest EDM festival, and the 2-day event will be staged this year at SCG Stadium in Muangthong Thani. Headliners include Dash Berlin, a big name in EDM, trance and electro house genres, with its famous tracks like “Till the Sky Falls Down”, “When You Were Around”, and “Waiting”, and Fedde Le Grand, a Dutch house DJ and producer who rose to fame with the single “Put Your Hands Up For Detroit”. The 2-day pass tickets start from B2,900 for general admission, and from B4,500 for special VIP packages. www.waterzonic.com SEP TEM BER 2016 | 101

NIGHTLIFE | listings

BARS 22 Steps Bar

A great place to unwind, enjoying a cocktail or fine cigar while watching the world go by. Enjoy happy hour from 5pm to 9pm every day, and don’t miss Ladies’ night on Wednesday which offers women two hours of free-flow sparkling wine from 9pm-11pm. Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 3pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Craft ‘N Roll Café

Located a bit out of the way—almost in Nonthaburi—this unique venue is worth a visit if you are interested to see what local Thai craft beer brewers are capable of producing. And the results will no doubt have you returning soon for more. 115, Soi Charan Sanitwong 95/1 Tel: 098 260 9292 Open daily: 5pm-midnight www.craftnroll.net

Badmotel

This three-floor joint is minimally decorated and painted bright white. The ground floor’s buzzing bar and tree-lined garden make a pleasant spot to sip on the venue’s “Creation Cocktails”. 331/4-5, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 712 7288 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.facebook.com/badmotel

Brew

See and be seen at any one of the city’s three Brew. All have a healthy list of foreign brews and cider on tap. A beerlover’s dream. 1F, Seen Space, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thong Lor), Tel: 02 185 2366 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Tel: 02 185 2366 Asiatique, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 02 108 8744 www.brewbkk.com 102 | SEP TEM BER 2016

A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com

Smalls

Diplomat Bar

Decorated with vintage furniture and art, giving it a true bohemian vibe, this wellloved, three-storey neighbourhood drink spot offers a wide selection of beers, wines, and hard-to-find liquors, as well as, the occasional live jazz band. 186/3, Suan Phlu Soi 1 Tel: 095 585 1398 Open: Wed-Mon, 7pm-2am www.facebook.com/smallsbkk

Diplomat Bar

The Friese-Greene Club

About Eatery

The bottom line is this: if you are a wine lover, you’ll love this place. It’s a warm and welcoming bar and restaurant that specializes in Mediterranean fare and artisan wines made using natural, biodynamic, and organic methods. GF, Ocean Tower II, Sukhumvit 21, Soi 3 Tel: 081 920 0740 Open: Mon-Fri, 11:30am-2pm, Mon-Sat, 5pm-1am www.abouteatery.com

J. Boroski Mixology

This elegant jazz bar is located on the ground floor of the Conrad Bangkok hotel. Here guests can unwind in chic surroundings, and choose from a diverse selection of beverages, including fine wines and specialty cocktails. 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9999 Open: Sun-Thu, 7am-1am, Fri-Sat, 7am-2am www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

This member’s only club (guests are always welcome), screens films in a tiny cinema on the second floor and serves reasonably priced drinks on the first. 259/6, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 087 000 0795, 080 733 8438 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-11pm www.fgc.in.th

Evil Man Blues

This retro cocktail bar promises only top-shelf spirits, housemade mixers, and fresh garnishes. Meanwhile, live music by renowned jazz musicians creates a close-knit vibe. GF, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

House of Beers (HOBS)

This Belgian-leaning chain of bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapas-style bar snacks. Penny’s Balcony, Tel: 02 392 3513 1F, Groove at CentralWorld, Tel: 02 613 1322 La Villa Aree, Tel: 02 613 0572 Aree Garden, Tel: 02 617 1600 INT Intersect, Tel: 02 682 6400 Nawamin Festival Walk, Tel: 02 907 0934-5 www.houseofbeers.com

Touché Hombre

This hugely popular Mexican bar and restaurant offers curious customers a chance to sample the finest mezcals and top-end tequilas, as well as superb Mexican-inspired dishes. 2F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7760 Open daily: 6pm-1am (Fri-Sat till 2am) www.touchehombre.com bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE

U.N.C.L.E.

One of the most enticing small bars in Bangkok, a hideaway that exudes class, where you can get cocktails made to your exact specifications. Sathorn Soi 12 Tel: 02 635 0406 Open: Tue-Sat, 6pm-1am www.avunculus.com

Woobar

Chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, and spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release or, better yet, a weekend party. GF, W Bangkok 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4131 Open daily: 9am-12am www.wbangkok.com

Barley Bistro

Check out the open-air rooftop, littered with fans, bean bags, and funky barley stalk sculptures. It’s a solid choice for some post-work/pre-club cocktails. 4F, Food Channel, Silom Rd. Tel: 087 033 3919 Open daily: 5pm-late www.barleybistro.com

ROOFTOP / SKY BARS

Whisgars

Char

Whisgars

Char

Whiskey and cigars are the focal points of this rapidly expanding Bangkok empire. Each outlet is a little different, but all cater to the finer things in life. 16, Sukhumvit Soi 23, Tel: 02 664 4252 981, Silom Rd., Tel: 02 630 1997 2F, Mahatun Plaza, Tel: 02 650 8157 www.whisgars.com

Above Eleven

Wishbeer Home Bar

Above Eleven

It’s back and bigger than ever with new digs on the corner of Sukhumvit 67, where, though it remains a work in progress, it already welcomes satisfied beer drinkers by the dozens each night. Sukhumvit Soi 67 Tel : 02 392 1403 Open daily: 7:30am-1am www.wishbeerhomebar.com

Located on the 26th floor of the Hotel Indigo, visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack. 33F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel 38/8, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 207 9300 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.aboveeleven.com

Cloud 47

A wallet-friendly rooftop bar in Bangkok’s bustling business district, that turns into a purple and blue neon fantasy at night. United Center, Silom Rd. Tel: 091 889 9600 Open daily: 11am-1am www.cloud47bangkok.com

LE DALAT Traditional Vietnamese Cuisine by MADAME LY www.ledalatbkk.com Le Dalat Restaurant bangkok101.com

57 Soi Prasarnmitr Sukhumvit 23 Rd. open 11.30-14.30, 17.30-22.30 Tel. 02 259 9593

7th Fl.,The Emquartier Sukhumvit Rd. open 10.00-22.00 Tel. 02 003 6267

4th Fl.,The Emporium Sukhumvit Rd. open 10.00-22.00 Tel. 02 664 7525 SEP TEM BER 2016 | 103

NIGHTLIFE | listings

Moon Bar & Vertigo

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Hotel offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for honeymooners. 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com

Red Sky Bar

Cé La Vi

Cé La Vi Bangkok (formerly Ku De Ta Bangkok) is one of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. 39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars, perched dramatically above the heart of the city, offers light bites and drinks such as the signature Imperial Mojito and Martini-infused cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open Daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Levels

St. Regis Bar

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets that lend it a desert tent feel. President Tower Arcade, 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

This rectangular venue overlooks the Royal Bangkok Sports Club through a large plate-glass window, a lovely spot at sunset, even better on Sunday afternoons, when you can spy on horse races with a fine malt whiskey in hand. St. Regis Bangkok Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 207 7777 Open: Mon-Fri, 10am-1am, Sat-Sun, 10am-2am www.stregis.com

One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough. 6F, 35, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 082 308 3246 Open daily: 9pm-3am www.facebook.com/levelsclub

Mixx Discotheque

ThreeSixty Lounge

Go sky high in style above Chao Phraya River at Millennium Hilton Bangkok’s grand rooftop venue. With 360° panorama vistas of the city, this lounge spot truly stands out from other sky bars in the city. 31-32F, Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.bangkok.hilton.com

CLUBS Beam

An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best sound systems. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 9pm-late www.beamclub.com 104 | SEP TEM BER 2016

Narz

Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance crowd moving for over two decades with their wild party atmosphere. Perfect for groups who want to make it their playground for the night. 112, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 4805 Open daily: 9pm-3am www.narzclubbangkok.net

Onyx

An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor.

RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd. Tel: 081 645 1166 Open daily: 8pm-2am www.onyxbangkok.com

Titanium Club & Ice Bar

With congenial hostesses clad in ao dai, a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly, and over 90 varieties of vodka, it’s definitely a fun night out. Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 258 3758 Open: 6pm-1:30am www.titanium-club.com

PUBS Mulligan’s Irish Bar

A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com

The Australian

A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. 37, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 0800 Open daily: 9am-late www.theaustralianbkk.com

The Black Swan

An amber-lit favourite that offers myriad drink deals and spectacular Sunday roasts. Now in its new location. 19/32, Soi Sukhumvit 19 Tel: 02 229 4542 Open daily: 8am-late www.blackswanbangkok.com

The Drunken Leprechaun

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4 Sukhumvit 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE

The Huntsman

English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a Sunday roast like no other. GF, The Landmark Hotel 138 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 254 0404 Open daily: 11:30am-2am www.landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub

33/28, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 090 626 7655 Open daily: Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am, Fri, 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun, 3pm-midnight www.apotekabkk.com

Queen Bee

The Pickled Liver

Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and more make this landmark pub—now in its second incarnation—a perennial favourite with locals. Sukhumvit Soi 7/1 (opposite Maxim’s Hotel) Tel: 02 651 1114 Open daily: 3pm-late www.thepickledliver.com

The Sportsman

Whether you want to shoot some pool, throw darts, or just sit back and watch your favourite team on TV, it’s all here at one of the best sports bars in Bangkok. GF, Trendy Condo Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 168 7241 Open daily: 8am-2am www.sportsbarbangkok.com

LIVE MUSIC Apoteka

Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this place has an old-school feel, an awesome line-up of live music, and a drink selection including beer and custom craft cocktails.

bangkok101.com

for stellar live rock, ska, and rockabilly that runs into the early morning. A little bit far from downtown, but definitely worth the trip to get there. 164, Soi Sun Wichai 14 Tel: 02 318 1415 Open daily: 4pm-2am www.parkingtoys.in.th

Adhere the 13th Blues Bar

Adhere the 13th Blues Bar One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals. 13 Samsen Rd. (opposite Soi 2) Open daily: 6pm-midnight Tel: 089 769 4613 www.facebook.com/adhere13thbluesbar

Brown Sugar

Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com

Parking Toys

A spacious garage-style venue, filled to the brim with random antiques, known

A great place to hang out and meet up with friends while enjoying great live music. Come play some pool and check out Bangkok’s best rock’n’roll and blues cover bands. 25/9, Sukumvit Soi 26 Tel: 092 446 4234 Open: 10:30am-2am www.facebook.com/QueenBeeBangkok

SpeakerBox

Enjoy local and imported craft beers while kicking back and checking out some of Bangkok’s best local indie bands at the compact, casual semi-open air venue. Ratchada Train Market (Rot Fai) 322/289 Soi Yu Charoen Tel: 084 662 6642 Open: Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-2am www.facebook.com/speakerboxbkk

SoulBar

Metalwork, modern art, and live Motown, funk, blues, and soul form the backbone of this stark, yet cool, shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 945 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok

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LIFESTYLE |

Metropole, The Crest “I’m A Durian” iceAscott creamLimited treat from the Issaya La Pâtisserie Pastry Cookbook Collection by The 106 | SEP TEM BER 2016

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| LIFESTYLE

LIFE+STYLE living large Thinking of upgrading your current digs? Or perhaps you’re a visitor who needs something extra comfortable for an extended stay in Bangkok? If so, an elegant new service apartment just threw open its doors to welcome you. METROPOLE, THE CREST COLLECTION by The Ascott Limited, is situated in the trendy Thong Lo area, the city’s main business and entertainment district, and the 116 fully furnished, spacious apartments offer a choice of studio or one-bedroom units, with facilities such as swimming pool, gym, al fresco dining, and a resident’s lounge. It’s luxury living with an address to impress. www.the-ascott.com

the science of strength After the huge success of their first health club and fitness facility on Sukhumvit Soi 31, THE LAB recently launched its brand new space in the Silom area, located on the 2nd floor of the NST ONE BUILDING close to Sala Daeng BTS station and Si Lom MRT station. This newest branch offers fitness classes and facilities with personal trainers and professional instructors… and a whole lotta kettlebells. The various training programs promise to burn fat, build strength, and push your limits. www.thelabbangkok.com

a bevvy of books Thailand’s stationary and bookstore chain B2S has kicked it up a notch with its brand new lifestyle bookstore THINK SPACE B2S. Located at CENTRALFESTIVAL EASTVILLE, this enormous space is offering a lot more than any other bookstore in the city. Inside visitors will find an absolutely huge amount of books for sale, as well as creative products, innovative gadgets, and well-designed furniture. There’s also co-working spaces available and the store will be hosting some cool workshops from time to time so stay tuned by checking out the official Facebook page. www.facebook.com/thinkspaceb2s

spectacular spa One of Bangkok’s most historic luxury five-star riverside hotels, the MANDARIN ORIENTAL, recently introduced its exclusive SPA STUDIO, located in the hotel’s freshly refurbished Garden Wing. This new spa facility offers four extravagantly designed treatment rooms—set in a tranquil atmosphere—promising powerful, effective, and less time consuming treatments. The treatments include express massage, waxing, manicures and pedicures by the renowned podiatrist BASTIEN GONZALEZ from France, and customized facial treatments using award-winning products from Germany. www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/luxury-spa

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SEP TEM BER 2016 | 107

LIFESTYLE | spa deals

SO Nippon Treatment at SoSpa

So Sofitel Bangkok | 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 | www.sofitel.com Freshen up and rejuvenate your skin with a SO Nippon Treatment at SoSpa, the luxurious 600 sq.m spa facility located in the SO Sofitel Bangkok hotel. The treatment highlights include a Japanese-style Ko Bi Do Anti-Aging Facial (90 minutes) together with a Head and Shoulder Massage (30 minutes). And now, exclusively for September, the full treatment is priced at just B4,500 net per person—reduced from the normal price of B6,000 net per person. SoSpa opens daily from 10am-10pm.

The Rainy Season Signature Spa at Away Spa

W Hotel | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 | www.whotelbangkok.com This month, Away Spa at the W Hotel is offering special treatments focusing on wellbeing, detoxification, and personal renewal. Start off with a 90-minute Body Compress Massage (B3,999)—which also includes a half hour foot massage—or choose the Head to Toe Therapy (B2,799/90 minutes) for total relaxation. Other treatments include Diamonds Are Forever, a full-body, age-defying treatment which incorporates 100 percent natural diamond powder (B4,399/120 minutes).

Balancing Touch at Sanctuary Wellness and Spa

Rembrandt Hotel | 19 Sukhumvit Rd, Soi 18 Tel: 02 261 7100 | www.rembrandtbkk.com Throughout the month, Sanctuary Wellness and Spa by Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok is introducing a 25 percent discount on its selection of 60-minute massages. The Balancing Touch features a combination of massages, using Eastern and Western techniques, while the Swedish Massage is a European full-body treatment to soothe aching muscles. Or, go for the Energizer Massage which concentrates on the neck, shoulders and lower back. Each treatment is B900 per person (reduced from B1,200).

Blood Type Spa Treatment at Spa Athénée

Plaza Athénée Bangkok | 61 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 650 8800 | www.plazaatheneebangkok.com A person’s individual blood type is widely recognised as being vital to determining individual physiological and personality characteristics. With this in mind, the Spa Athénée is offering individualized massages according to customer blood type, designed to boost the immune system. The personalized treatments include the Immunetra Blood Type Retreat (B8,200/240 minutes), a half-day of personally encoded bliss, and the Immunetra Blood Type Massage (B3,600/90 minutes).

Feel Pattaya at Devarana Spa

Dusit Thani Bangkok | 946 Rama IV Rd. Tel: 02 636 3596 | www.devaranaspa.com Devarana Spa at Dusit Thani Bangkok presents ‘Pattaya’s Delight’, a spa retreat inspired by Thailand’s popular beachside resort town. Begin with Pattaya’s Local Dessert Body Scrub (30 minutes), where a freshly squeezed scrub uplifts the mood with its fruity smell, while softly exfoliating and revitalizing the skin. Complete the journey with a Warm Bamboo & Devarana Massage, starting with warm bamboo stick compress. Priced at B3,750, this promo is available until the end of November.

Work Hard Then Relax Hard with Baan Sabai Spa

Baan Sabai Spa | Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 661 5981 | www.baansabaithailand.com After a day of hard-work re-energize your body—down to its very core— with a visit to Baan Sabai Spa. From September to November, various promotions are available, including the Deep Tissue Massage and Herbal Ball Compress (B1,900), a premium combination of essential oils and hot herbal ball compresses. Meanwhile, the Aromatherapy Massage and Body Scrub (B1,600) channels the mythical secrets of Oriental beauty with an organic cream scrub. Give your body what it needs!

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spa review | LIFESTYLE

Lifestyles on 26

arlier this year, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld refurbished and renovated its fitness centre Lifestyles on 26. High above Bangkok’s downtown core (as the name suggests, it’s on the 26th floor), it makes a convenient venue for sports enthusiasts to squeeze in a workout anytime during the day or night. Finding the way can prove a little tricky—take the lift of the Convention Centre to the 23rd floor, before changing to the hotel lift for another three floors—but once you reach the top you will be rewarded with a spectacular view of the city skyline, making your workout all the more special. Upon entering the modern reception area—a spacious room furnished with a handful of sofas— guests can already get a glimpse of the modern fitness room at the back. The compact gym boasts an extensive selection of state-of-the-art equipment, including treadmills, cross trainers and various weightlifting machines, all lined up along the floorbangkok101.com

to-ceiling windows. On the far left, a door leads to a beautiful outdoor area comprising a swimming pool, bar, sofas and Jacuzzi, as well as some outdoor gymnastic apparatus and a wooden platform for morning Tai Chi classes. In addition, the fitness centre provides a Fitzone for circle training and HIIT (High-intensity interval training) as well as a studio for a number of different classes including Pilates, Zumba, TRX, Yoga Fly and Thai boxing. After several years of more or less regularly practicing yoga, I decided to give Yoga Fly a try and opted for one of their evening classes. Also known as ‘Aerial Yoga’, it’s basically a combination of dance moves and traditional yoga poses performed with and on a yoga hammock. Unfortunately for me, the class was held in Thai only, but luckily one of the other students could translate for me. After some initial warm-ups, we pulled ourselves off the floor and into the hammock. By wrapping our arms and legs around the fabric, swinging back and forth, standing or squatting in

the hammock and even hanging upside down, we tried to bend our bodies into different yoga-inspired poses. The work-out requires a lot of strength in the arms, shoulders and hands, as well as good balance and concentration—as you need to hold on tightly for the entire time in order not to fall off! It is definitely a fun experience moulding into different postures while hanging a metre or so above the ground, and best suited for those who enjoy a flexible work-out without the traditional philosophy and thinking behind other types of yoga. The Yoga Fly class on its own is B400/60min, but the fitness centre offers many different membership packages and promotions to combine classes with access to the gym. by Julia Offenberger

Lifestyles on 26

26F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld, 999 Rama I Rd. Tel: 02 100 6299 Open daily: 6am-12am www.centarahotelsresorts.com SEP TEM BER 2016 | 109

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

ou .. Y . d Di ow? Kn

annabe baristas listen up! Did you know that you can learn the tricks of the trade right here in the middle of Bangkok? Roaster and coffee equipment supplier CoffeeWorks (read our interview with co-founder Dale Lee on page 22) offers barista training for both professionals and amateurs alike.

110 | SEP TEM BER 2016

In their experience centre and roasting lab, located across from K-Village on Sukhumvit 26, small groups of eager students—maximum five—are taught everything from cupping and pour over, to espresso extraction, cold brewing, milk steaming, and even latte art. There are three course levels to choose from, each lasting four hours and priced at B8,000, including

lecture, instruction, demos, as well as hands-on training (to save money it’s also possible to sign up for all three levels for only B20,000). Call 02 425 1395 ext. 83, or visit www.facebook.com/ mycoffeeworks to register for their next scheduled class, and impress your friends with your newfound barista bravado.

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