Bangkok101 Magazine September 2017 by Talisman Media

T h e i n a ugura l

P h uk e t Fo o d & W ine Ex po

w i ll s h o w c a s e t h e v ery b est g o ur m e t c u isine,

t h e f i n e s t w i n e s & spirit s,

a n d t h e la t e s t i nnov a t ions

i n lux ur y k i t c h e n p r o duc t s & serv ic es.

It’s the food event of the year!

9-11 M AR CH 2018

RPMIEC • ROYAL PHUKET MARINA PHUKET • THAILAND

www.phuketfoodandwine.com

Org anis e d By

H o s t V e n ue s

O f f ic ial M ed ia Par tn er

Publisher’s Letter

n recent months and years, the reputation that Bangkok held as “party central” has been systematically curtailed by the city’s governing authorities. Official bar closure times seem to be an ever-changing mystery, and it’s no surprise bar owners are whining about it. Couple that with a recent regulation which has decreed that advertising and promoting the consumption of alcohol on social media is a punishable crime, and you can see why people in the nightlife industry are grasping at straws in an effort to keep their businesses (and their spirits) up and running. But despite all this prohibition fever, and the overall demonizing of booze, this manic metropolis still enjoys a very potent nightlife scene, which is thoroughly distilled in our cover story feature (pg. 16). From cozy pubs to glamorous rooftop skybars, this city is overflowing with watering holes. Meanwhile, the range of intoxicating personalities who bring their energy and creativity to this after hours milieu include DJs, dancers, mixologists, musicians, and more. In many ways Bangkok is coolest at night—in both senses of the word—and partying is one of the main attractions for the tourists who continue to come here in record numbers. There’s a reason why the film Hangover 2 was set in Bangkok. As for the other features we have on tap in this issue, there’s an overview and guide to all the events taking place at the highly anticipated 18th World Gourmet Festival at the Anantara Siam Hotel (p. 86), and a look at the line up for this year’s SO Amazing Chefs event at the SO Sofitel (pg. 11). With these two events and others (see pg. 83), it makes for a record number of superstar kitchen talents coming through town. All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101. Enjoy. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence info@talisman.asia. Publisher

What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

SEP T EM BER 2017 | 5

CONTENTS 26

CITY PULSE 10

Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok

My Bangkok Meet Scott Hess, one of the city’s innovative DJs

Best of BKK Over the past five years Bangkok’s nightlife scene has seen a surge in the number of new cocktail lounges, craft beer joints, and sky-high rooftop bars—but there’s still room for a good ol’ pub!

Music Makers Live music in this city runs the gamut from hard rock to smooth jazz

On The Block Ever-changing Sukhumvit Soi 11 shows no sign of slowing down

Out & About Xuan Xu brings her flair for the dramatic to Hotel Muse

The Morning After From hangover cures to hair of the dog

SNAPSHOTS 42

Tom’s Two Satangs On Thai Word Endings

Bizarre Thailand Bangkok’s Rock n’ Roll Footnotes - Part 1

46 48

Joe’s Bangkok The Rama VIII Bridge remains an architectural marvel Very Thai Temple Fairs

50 Heritage The 60s architecture of the Dusit Thani Bangkok hotel

On the cover

Eat Me restaurant’s resident barman Buntanes ‘Pop’ Direkrittikul is the mad Siamese scientist behind eight creative concoctions that make up the ‘Sip Some Thai’ drink menu. Pictured is the Mieng-Khum, which mimics perfectly the taste of this yummy Northern Thai snack. Photo by Kan Ongwat www.eatmerestaurant.com See more in our cover story (pg. 16).

TRAVEL 52

Kanchanaburi 101 In this special 12-page travel destination feature we explore the riverside retreat of Kanchanaburi

Focus on Kanchanaburi Exploring the infamous Death Railway; Roadtrip to the Three Pagodas Pass

Where to Stay Good Times Resort

Upcountry Now This month’s events and festival throughout Thailand

ART & CULTURE 66

Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city

Museum Spotlight The Suan Pakkad Palace

Special Report The 19th International Festival of Dance & Music

Arts Interview Excerpts from a master lecture by acclaimed Thai film director Apichatpong Weerasethakul

Cinema Scope This month’s film news and screenings

Photo Feature Infrared photography by Danaan Andrew

Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | SEP T EM BER 2017

bangkok101.com

appetite for indulgence

culinary creativity like you’ve never seen before!

Shinichiro Takagi

Guillaume Galliot Caprice Four Seasons Hotel (Hong Kong)

Miguel Laffan

Cristina Bowerman

Restaurant Zeniya (Kanazawa, Japan)

Glass Hosteria (Rome, Italy)

Jason Tan

L’AND Vineyards (Alentejo, Portugal)

Anatoly Kazakov

World’s 50 Best Restaurants

The Corner Restaurant (Singapore)

Restaurant Selﬁe (Moscow, Russia)

Costardi Brothers Ristorante Christian e Manuel (Vercelli, Italy)

Jock Zonfrillo

Australia’s Top 50 Restaurants

Restaurant Orana (Adelaide, Australia)

Hiroaki Ishizuka Kien Restaurant (Tokyo, Japan)

Bobby Chinn

Restaurateur, TV Personality

Chef, Restaurateur, TV Personality, Cookbook Author

Eleven Chefs, Eight Countries, Seven Days, One Hotel 18th World Gourmet Festival 4 - 10 September 2017

SPONSORS

MEDIA PARTNERS

www.worldgourmetfestival.asia

CONTENTS 90

FOOD & DRINK 82

Food & Drink Updates

Meal Deals Restaurants offer amazing deals for diners

Hot Plates Cuisine De Garden

Special Report The 18th annual World Gourmet Festival takes over the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel from September 4th to the 10th

Restaurant Reviews The Rock; Park Society; Katana; Café Claire; La Dotta; KarmaKamet

Breaking Bread With Chef Gianni Favro from Gianni Ristorante

Eat Like Nym Namprik Nittaya

100

Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok

106

Nightlife Updates

108

Bar Reviews Black Cabin; Scarlett

110

Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok

114

Lifestyle Updates

116

Spa Products From candles to cleansers

117

Spa Review Away Spa

SIGNING OFF 118

Did You Know?... Bangkok now has a fine dining restaurant where insects provide the protein

ART DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTING

PUBLISHED BY

Narong Srisaiya

PHOTOGRAPHERS

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Danaan Andrew, Nate Clark, Dave Crimaldi, David Jacobson, Xavier Sandel

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120

Thanakrit Skulchartchai PUBLISHER

STRATEGISTS

Mason Florence

Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond

GENERAL MANAGER

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Orn-uma Promsrikaew

Parinya Krit-Hat

Jim Algie, Luc Citrinot, Laurie Cohen, Philip Cornwell-Smith, Kelly Harvey, Micaela Marini Higgs, Robin Westley Martin, Chris Michael, Rianka Mohan, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Craig Sauers, Lekha Shankar, Tom Vitayakul, Annalise Watkins, Nadia Willan, Sara Wilson

SALES EXECUTIVE

Bruce Scott EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Joe Cummings EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Falida Angkhuro Anansit Sangsawang

Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia

SALES MANAGER

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

MANAGING EDITOR

117

LIFE+STYLE

NIGHTLIFE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

109

Iyarinnara Boonrat Thipthida Sorrapim DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING COORDINATOR

Chakkrit Rattanapan EVENT & SPECIAL PROJECTS

Wasin Banjerdtanakul

© Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher.Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CITY PULSE | metro beat

SEPTEMBER’S HOTTEST TICKETS September 9

CULTURAL FEST

Australia’s own Tommy Emmanuel is one of the world’s most dazzling and entertaining acoustic guitar virtuosos, best known for his complex fingerstyle technique, energetic performances, and the use of percussive effects on the guitar. He also loves performing in Bangkok, and this month he’ll be taking the stage at the Himmapan Avatar Theatre, which is in the recently opened Show DC Mega Complex (Jaturatid Rd). Tickets range in price from B1,400 to B2,300, and showtime is set for 7pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com

September 11-October 19

The annual Bangkok International Festival of Dance & Music returns once again to the Main Hall of the Thailand Cultural Centre (14 Tiam Ruam Mit Rd). This will be the 19th edition of this esteemed event, which this year features classical ballet, Spanish flamenco, a Broadway musical, a magic show, a symphonic orchestra, and a children’s acrobatic troupe. For a full description of September’s events see our special arts feature, starting on pg. 72. www.bangkokfestivals.com

SWING PARTY September 16

Join Bangkok’s hippest hep cats for a roarin’ night out as the Diga Diga Doo crew returns to Chinatown’s Shanghai Mansion (479-481 Yaowarat Rd). Step inside a gorgeous 1930s ballroom and jive your way around the dancefloor to the sounds of NYC’s Gordon Webster Band featuring Charles Turner (pictured). The party also includes entertainment from Cirque du Soleil tap dancer Joseph C. Wiggan, Charleston sensation Ksenia Parkhatskaya, and five top international swing dancers. Tickets are B1,500 and the event runs from 8pm till midnight. www.digadigadoobkk.com

10 | SEP T EM BER 2017

September 15

American duo The Chainsmokers are coming to Thailand for one show only at Impact Challenger Hall 1 (Muang Thong Thani), with special guest Nick Martin. The pair, whose real names are Alex Pall and Drew Taggart, have performed all over the world to sold-out crowds, and have to their credit over 5 billion global streams. Tickets are B2,000 and B3,000, and the party starts at 8:30pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com

September 15

Hugo, the first Thai artist signed to Jay-Z’s Roc Nation label, is coming to Bitec Bangna (Hall 107). This acclaimed singer-songwriter—whose full name is Hugo Chakrabongse Levy—is a major talent in his own right, but can also trace direct royal heritage back to his maternal great-grandfather, Prince Chakrabongse Bhuvanath (a son of King Rama V). Tickets range in price from B2,000 to B1,000, and the concert gets underway at 8pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com

September 21

The pop-rock band OneRepublic have been dominating charts all over the world since their debut in 2007. Over the past decade the quintet has released several top-selling albums, and the video for the song “Counting Stars” has racked up more than 1.4 billion views on YouTube. Tickets range in price from B5,000 to B2,000 and the show begins at 8:30pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com

September 27

American progressive metal legends Dream Theater will be in town rocking the Thunder Dome (Muang Thong Thani) as part of their 25th anniversary tour. Since its inception the band has sold over 10 million records worldwide, and even managed to squeak onto Rolling Stone magazine’s ‘100 Greatest Metal Albums of All Time’ list (at #95). Tickets are B2,000 and the thunder rolls at 8pm. www.thaiticketmajor.com bangkok101.com

metro beat | CITY PULSE

GOURMET CHEF EVENT September 26-October 1

Top row (l to r): Alain Caron; Jean-Baptiste Natali; Michael Dyllong. Bottom row (l to r): Patrick Jeffroy; Thierry Drapeau; Sakal Phoeung.

bangkok101.com

Returning for its 6th year, the SO Amazing Chefs event, 2017 edition, will bring to Bangkok an amazing line up of kitchen talent—with a combined total of 12 Michelin stars between them—for a six-day journey of culinary excellence. The event takes place at the SO Sofitel Bangkok (2 North Sathorn Rd), and the program includes five themed degustation dinners, five exclusive private chef’s table dining opportunities, a cheese evening, an oyster feast, a fabulous after-party, and so much more. Meanwhile, the chef roster includes international and local legends such as: Jacques Cocollos, Nicolas Isnard, René van Empelen, Sakal Phoeung, Christopher Lecoutre, Alain Caron, Didier Corlou, Hervé Rodriguez, Jacques Pourcel, Jean-Baptiste Natali, Joost Bijster, Laurent Peugeot, Michael Dyllong, Patrice and Philippe Marchand, Patrick Jeffroy, Paul Smart, Stéphane Bonnat, and Thierry Drapeau. And be sure not to miss the ‘Culinary Showdown’ competition and gala charity dinner on Wednesday the 27th, one of the main highlights of the event each year. For information and reservations call 02 624 0000. www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com/offers/so-amazingchefs-2017

SEP T EM BER 2017 | 11

CITY PULSE | metro beat

ITALIAN FESTIVAL IN THAILAND September 14-15

THEATRE SHOW September 29-October 7

The Bangkok Community Theatre (BCT) is presenting the Tony-award winning play The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee, at Creative Industries - M Theatre (2884/2, New Phetchaburi Rd). The family-friendly story revolves around an eclectic group of 6th graders, each eager to win the local spelling bee (each for very different reasons). Hilarious and touching, with catchy songs as well, it’s a marvellously entertaining bit of theatrical fun. The Friday and Saturday shows (September 29-30, and October 6-7) begin at 7:30 pm, while the matinee performance on Saturday October 7 begins at 2pm. Tickets are B850, and those who buy online will receive information about how to become an audience contestant. www.bangkokcommunitytheatre.com

DINNER THEATRE September 6

The Grand Opera Thailand will be presenting another in their series of special once-a-month dinner and show performances at the Banyan Tree Hotel’s 60th floor Vertigo Too bar and restaurant (21/100 South Sathorn Rd). This one-of-a-kind evening of highly elevated food and music includes a carefully crafted four-course degustation menu with wine pairings for the price of B4,900, or for just B2,800 you can reserve balcony seats that include servings of international beverages. This month the company will be performing songs from the hit Broadway musical Phantom of the Opera. Start time is 7pm. For more information or to make reservations, call 02 679 1200 or email hostessesbangkok@banyantree.com. 12 | SEP T EM BER 2017

Italian psychedelic jazz takes over Bangkok as Sudoku Killer, a band from Rome led by double bass player Caterina Palazzi, takes the stage at the Silpakorn University Auditorium (Sanam Chandra Palas Campus). The free concert, which begins at 7pm, will also celebrate the Italian father of Thai Modern Art, Corrado Feroci (Silpa Bhirasri). And if you miss the group’s concert on the 14th, they’ll be at the Bamboo Bar—the Mandarin Oriental hotel’s jazz lounge—the following evening (starting at 8pm).

September 28-29

Italy’s Luca Ciarla ‘Violinair’ Quartet bring their blend of contemporary jazz and Italian and Mediterranean musical traditions to the Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) for a free show beginning at 7pm. And if you miss the quartet’s concert on the 28th, they’ll be at The Living Room—the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit hotel’s jazz lounge—the following evening (starting at 9pm). For more information about upcoming Italian Festival in Thailand 2017 events, visit the official Facebook page. www.facebook.com/italianfestivalthailand

INDIE ROCK SHOWS September 9

Feed your shoegazer and noise pop yearnings at the #HYHBKK Weekend Noise Fest, taking place at The Link Asoke – Makkasan (1643/5,7 New Petchaburi Rd). Headlining the event will be the Brooklyn-based band DIIV, while supporting acts include Hariguem Zaboy, Cloud Behind, Triggs & The Longest Day, and Folk9. Tickets are B1,300 advance—B1,500 at the door— and the fest gets underway at 5pm. www.ticketmelon.com

September 15

Parisian electronic music producer FKJ is in town for his biggest Bangkok showcase yet, performing an incredible live set at Zen@CentralWorld. This self-taught studio wizard, whose real name is Vincent Fenton, is also a multi-instrumentalist who plays the guitar, bass, saxophone, piano, and more. Tickets are B1,290 and the party runs from 9pm till midnight. www.ticketmelon.com

September 22

UK singer-songwriter Lucy Rose is once again bringing her melodic indie folk tunes to town, this time appearing at Heaven Bangkok at Zen (Level 20, Zen@CentralWorld). Fans can look forward to hearing hits such as “Our Eyes” and “Like an Arrow”, and there will also be a screening of the short film Something’s Changing (also the title of Rose’s latest album). Tickets are B750 and showtime is 9pm. www.ticketmelon.com bangkok101.com

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CITY PULSE | my bangkok

Scott Hess

American-born Scott Hess didn’t set out to be a DJ, but his talent on the turntables led to a residency in Germany, and an eventual move to Bangkok There’s some kind of juice here that’s like no place else on earth. My hope is that more and more people will try to harness this creatively, rather than try to imitate things that are happening in other cities, or to just stick to tired music genres and formulas. I think what Chris Menist and Maft Sai have done with their Paradise Bangkok record label and events is really inspiring. What they’ve created is something that could have only come from here, and they’re having huge success worldwide too.

Tell us about your musical influences. I grew up in Detroit, where I was lucky enough to be exposed to and inspired by so much great music—Motown, George Clinton, Juan Atkins and the birth of techno, Theo Parrish, Iggy Pop and the Stooges, J. Dilla and Slum Village, etc. There was so much great music around me and I really tried to absorb it all without discrimination. That’s a very Detroit thing, this way of looking at different kinds of music without trying to judge or put it in a box. How did you end up becoming a DJ? I started out as a bass player. Back then I was obsessed with Parliament, and trying to get my bass to sound like that. Turns out much of that stuff was Bernie Worrell on synth. When I figured that out I moved on to synths, then samplers and drum machines. Next thing I knew I was getting small gigs producing hip hop. I only started DJing as a way to get my studio beats to a live setting for rappers. Ironically it was DJing that became my career and I moved to Germany and got my first residencies, and I eventually got better at it. I also continued to compose, and have had some success with music for films and video games, and I have my own original live electronic music project called Elevators. Where in Bangkok can people hear you spinning? I’m at Smalls every Thursday. This is where I’m most free to express myself creatively. I play a lot of my own productions at Smalls, and it’s the kind of environment that encourages me to take chances. I also play every Saturday at Iron Balls Distillery, which is also a fantastic creative environment. Iron Balls is “vinyl only” and that’s a fun challenge to come up with inspiring sets every week with just the vinyl I’ve either brought with me or have found in Thailand. You can also catch me at Quince every Friday 14 | SEP T EM BER 2017

night, and at Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar every Wednesday. How do you make your sets unique? I don’t categorize music by genre or stick to one style of music all night. Rather, I look for common links between different styles of music and try to bring them together in a way that makes sense, that tells a story. It might be a mood, or key signature, or certain sounds. Also, I like to play a lot of my original productions and I also make my own edits and remixes of other music that I play. You also post your DJ sets online. I started to do this for posterity, as a way a keeping a musical record of these amazing nights I’ve been having here in Bangkok. Honestly there’s no place else in the world I’d rather be right now, and I get a special kind of inspiration from this city. So yeah, I started recording my sets and posting them online to share with people at www.mixcloud.com/scotthess5243. What do you think of the city’s nightlife scene overall? I think there’s a special kind of vibe in Bangkok for those who can feel it.

What’s your take on Bangkok’s live music scene? I think the level of musicianship in Bangkok, especially with the jazz players, is incredibly high. It’s great to see Smalls offering a platform for more adventurous, avant-garde jazz on Wednesdays. Hopefully more venues will follow suit and this “scene” will develop into something bigger. I also love what’s happening at Studio Lam with all the new Molam bands coming up, like Siang Hong Lion and Toomturn Molarm Group. It’s a revival with new innovations of the original form—very inspiring stuff! Do you plan on remaining in BKK? I absolutely expect to be based here in BKK indefinitely, and I’ve set up a pretty decent portable studio. Of course, as much as I love Bangkok, I also love to escape as well, to recharge the battery and to find new inspiration. But without a doubt BKK will remain my home base for some time to come. I first came here for a one-year course at SAE (School of Audio Engineering), but I knew after two weeks that I wasn’t going to leave Thailand. interview by Bruce Scott To check out Scott’s original music productions visit: www.soundcloud. com/sushiking/sets/elevators bangkok101.com

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Bangkok’s Bars in Focus Running down the colourful cocktail joints, craft beer bars, and super cool dives that make nights out in this city so special By Craig Sauers

ever has the question “Where should we go for drinks tonight?” been so difficult to answer. Not all that long ago, five-star hotels were the only place you could go in this town for a decent cocktail, and beer variety amounted to a handful of pretty much identical bland lagers with big game or mythical animals as logos. In fact, craft beer wasn’t even imported into Bangkok before 2012. But times have changed. Now we have no less than two dozen bars serving craft beer brewed by Thai upstarts outside the country, and other beer geeks bringing world-famous brewers to our shores for meet and greets. We also have spirit purists who can recite recipes from the Savoy Book as if they were lines from the bible, or tell you the history of zeitgeist-defining cocktails like the Negroni and use that as justification for making your drinks stiffer and infusing their Campari with coffee beans. And you, dear reader, probably know a thing or two more about what goes into your drinks, and can better appreciate the reasons you love that dark dingy dive, than ever before. Consumer knowledge is at an all-time high, say industry experts like Chennarong ‘Jan’ Bhumichitr, a senior brand ambassador at Diageo Moët Hennessey Thailand, who deserves some credit for helping to educate all of us. Diageo and other brands like it have invested serious time and energy into improving our collective knowledge of booze—that includes drinking responsibly. All this growth has come at a cost, of course. Thong Lor has experienced more facelifts than a plastic surgeon, and trends tend to sweep through this city like a tornado. Just as you’re starting to understand all the fuss about chrysanthemum in your cocktails, it stops being cool. For a while, every new bar 16 | SEP T EM BER 2017

seemed to have “rustic and raw” interior design, then they didn’t, and then they did again. What are we supposed to be drinking now anyway—an Old Fashioned, or an IPA? Your head really starts spinning when you see a guy who was behind the bar at some lounge in Sathorn managing a different bar in Ekkamai the very next week. With this in mind, let’s embark on a fool’s errand; accepting that this story can’t come close to being comprehensive. Some of the bars featured might shutter this year, and no doubt many bartenders will move on to greener pastures. But such is life. Right now, Bangkok truly is enjoying a golden age of nightlife, and we might as well cherish it in the moment. CRAFT BEER BARS On a rain- and beer-soaked evening in late 2012, Brew Beers & Ciders played host to the first Beervana pop-up event, marking the first time American craft beer had reached our shores for distribution. Sadly, that outlet of the Brew chain is gone now, but craft beer has only boomed since then. In supermarkets, Family Marts, and just about every new bar with beer—even gin joints like Teens of Thailand—you’ll find bottles of beer that were never available a few years ago. More impressively, greater Bangkok alone now boasts more than two dozen beer bars, from Bang Na to neighbouring Nonthaburi. One such bar continues to blaze new trails. Over the past three years, Mikkeller Bangkok has consistently raised the bar for the beer scene. Occupying a beautifully renovated two-story townhouse on Ekkamai Soi 10, the bar boasts 30 taps that rotate each week, featuring beers, ciders—and even mead—that you won’t find elsewhere. That bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Barman Butanes ‘Pop’ Direkrittikul, displays his craftamanship at Eat Me bangkok101.com

SEP T EM BER 2017 | 17

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Mikkeller Bangkok means cans of Double IPA from up-and-coming Norwegian brewery Lervig, marionberry mead from Superstition Meadery, and single kegs of beers that would be hard to find even in the country where they’re brewed, like AleSmith’s Thai Speedway Stout (an imperial stout made with lemongrass, ginger, chilies, and Thai herbs that, somewhat ironically, was not made with export to the Thai market in mind). Husband-and-wife owners Jakob Rasmussen and Rutima Vaewvichit, who also run a craft beer and spirits importing company called Hopsession, often bring in famous brewers, including the bar’s namesake, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, for casual, off-the-cuff events that last long into the night. “When we started doing Hopsession, we were a bit frustrated by all the generic beer bars back then that wanted to sell only beers they had heard of, beers that were available year round, and so on,” says Vaewvichit. “We opened Mikkeller [the first sole craft beer bar in Bangkok] to bring higher quality and more variety to people that maybe didn’t know much about craft beer.” Canadian-run Hair of the Dog might be the polar opposite of Mikkeller in terms of design, but the bar, which could double as a set for a horror film, shares a serious penchant for beer. Actually, there are two branches of Hair of the Dog—the original occupies a narrow space above La Monita in Phloen Chit, and it feels decidedly more morgue-like than the spacious second outlet in Phrom Phong. Each has 13 taps—with at least one always pouring something heavy and extreme—as

Changwon Express 18 | SEP T EM BER 2017

well as several fridges for drink-in or carry-out purchases. And the bar staff know what they’re talking about, so ask questions if you’re overwhelmed by the options. One of the newer venues in town, Mash on Soi Convent has quickly established itself as a go-to bar, not just for the variety of high-quality beer—which includes some of the better cuts from the recent wave of Thai brewers who have gone overseas to brew legally. From the music to the minimal, marble-heavy design, this is one of the most attractive bars to open this year. It should have staying power, too. It’s a little more refined than the usual venues in this part of town, and having 16 taps certainly doesn’t hurt its cause. Mash should remain a popular spot for office workers and travellers long after the honeymoon has ended. Another relatively new bar has brought craft beer to the Old Town. Pijiu, a cool, casual bar run by current and former Beervana employees, serves five beers on tap and many others by the bottle inside a handsome, heavily Chinese-themed shophouse on Soi Nana in Chinatown. Wishbeer made the most of Bangkok’s burgeoning startup scene to develop a home delivery system for beer. Then, it added a bar and bottle shop in a renovated warehouse that’s almost Pijiu Bar hidden in plain sight, just off Sukhumvit Road in Phra Khanong, where good happy hours and frequent events, including launches of new beers from Thai brewers, draw big crowds. Korean expat Ted Ahn turned a tiny storefront just outside MRT Petchaburi into a haven for beer geeks, and by the time this issue goes to print, he will have opened a second branch of his Changwon Express at Flow House. But now he’ll have triple the number of taps to work with, as this larger branch will pour a range of Thai and Western craft beer from up to 30 taps. THAI CRAFT BEER SCENE Ever since Wichit Saiklao, better known as ‘Chit’, launched his brewing academy and dive bar—aptly entitled Chit Beer—on the bucolic island of Koh Kret in 2013, the number of Thai brewers in Bangkok has skyrocketed. Now, some are working within the laws to legally brew their beer. That means going abroad to brew, but still, within this legal climate, that’s a win. “I just wanted to open a bar that served good beer for my community [Tha Sai],” explains Supapong ‘Toon’ Pruenglampoo, one of the 11 people behind the rising Thai-run beer brand called Sandport, which is a translation of Tha Sai. “But now [we see that] maybe our story, our passion, can influence people all over the world. It’s worth the risks we take.” To try some of the fruits of this burgeoning movement, check out bottle shops like Bottles of Booze in Sathorn, bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Chit, from Chit Beer where beers from Sandport, Yaksa, Ther, and more are available alongside big-name imports. It might require a bit of a trek to get to Sandport’s own bar, the Fellowship of Beer (out near Lak Si), but it’s a good place to clink glasses with aspiring Thai brewers. So is the weekends-only Chit Beer, of course, and Goldencoins in Ekkamai, where one of the former owners of much-loved, and now defunct, Let the Boy Die has opened his own bar with a similar concept—in both its design and rebellious spirit. Speaking of rebellious, The Fat Cow in Lad Phrao and Dok Keaw House Bar on the periphery of Ari may fly under-the-radar, considering their locations, but both serve lots of lesser-known Thai-made beers—especially those that are still “underground”, if you catch the drift. If you’re curious, they’re definitely worth the trek. Rumour has it the old wooden house that Dok Keaw occupies is haunted, too. Other good bets for great craft beer: O’Glee, Craft on 23, The Beer Bridge (Lang Suan), Beer Belly (Thong Lor), and House of Beers (Penny’s Balcony, Thong Lor). THE COCKTAIL CRAZE Bangkok’s nightlife has always had a reputation for being free-wheeling, no-holds-barred. Much of that is its own fault, although movies like The Hangover Part 2 didn’t do the city any favours either. But while Hangover-like binge sessions rage on in the city’s backpacker ghettos, a new wave of bartenders in Thong Lor, Chinatown, and Sathorn has truly classed up the joint. Thong Lor is the epicentre of this cocktail culture movement. Cocktail bars continue to establish themselves, even as the community develops at warp speed around them, but it all starts with Backstage Bar, a hideaway first opened in 2014. This is the place where many of the city’s bartenders confess to spending their time after hours, so you know it’s good. Expect drinks tailored to you with the benefit of the bar staff’s endless supply of creativity, while a “behind the curtains at the burlesque show” theme lightens the mood. It doesn’t hurt that pretty much all the bartenders aspire to ‘Diageo World Class’ status, either. In short, Backstage is a must for any cocktail lover. Nearby you’ll find Rabbit Hole. Lacking obvious signage, this low-lit and handsomely designed “speakeasy” might be Bangkok’s answer to Singapore’s 38 HongKong Street: craft cocktails in a den of a bar, where boundaries bangkok101.com

Rabbit Hole are being pushed by the minute by folks like Suwincha ‘Cha Cha’ Singsuwan, arguably the most famous female bartender in Bangkok right now. Spirit forward drinks are the rule here, not the exception. Newcomer Locker Room, also up the road, has thrown its hat in the ring for “Best Bar in Bangkok, All Categories”. It helps that this bar sees the union of Ronnaporn ‘Neung’ Kanivichaporn—co-owner of Backstage Bar, and one of the city’s top bar figures—with Colin Chia of Singapore’s Nutmeg & Clove, Hidetsugu Ueno of Tokyo’s Bar High Five, and Nick Wu of Taipei’s East End. This is bar royalty. That they pull off a “past-present-future” cocktail concept to perfection is no surprise. What is surprising is the somewhat hidden location behind new late-night-friendly mall JIA. Hint: look for the lockers. But as these bars come, so do other institutions go. Chalk it up to development, or perhaps to a collective short attention span. In any case, places like Bronx Liquid Parlour—which was one of the most reliable cocktail bars in town in terms of both atmosphere and drinks—have served their last, while others have seen their star bartenders move on for reasons probably better left unstated. Case in point, the delightful Saimai Nantarat, who amicably left Bunker in Sathorn to lead the Backstage Bar SEP T EM BER 2017 | 19

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Teens of Thailand

Tep Bar

all-female bar crew at Highball. Fortunately, the prowess that made her famous in the first place is on equal display at this venue in Phrom Phong, where—you guessed it—creative spins on the simple but absolutely fantastic highball are the order. While Thong Lor may be the beating heart of Bangkok’s cocktail culture, the movement is also in full swing on the other side of town. Teens of Thailand in Chinatown remains one of the city’s premier watering holes. It scores double for being a gin joint. Head bar man Niks Anuman-Rajadhon has been at this for a long time, and his “couldn’t care less” attitude toward things like advertising and awards means he runs the show his way. His way also happens to be the right way, for the record, so for the best G&Ts in town, go here. But don’t stop at Teens. On the same street, Soi Nana, you’ll find Tep Bar, which infuses the whole cocktail experience with Thai heritage. The drinks are made with a kind of local hooch called ya dong that’s blended with herbs, fruits, and spices, while the music features live luk

krung, the slow-building songs of the central region of Thailand. Even the design displays lots of golden touches. Tep Bar is rightly a fan favourite, but the newer Ba Hao should join those ranks soon as well. The setting evokes Wong Kar-Wai’s film In the Mood for Love, with red neon tube lights and a light hand in the renovation of the shophouse it occupies. And the cocktails are done with a Thai-Chinese touch, making good use of ingredients like ginseng, herbal liqueur, and pickled plum. Not all excellent cocktail bars are found in just these neighbourhoods. Vesper and Eat Me, both located in the Soi Convent area of Sathorn/Silom, are heavy hitters, as is Junker & Bar, a gin-focused dive on nearby Soi Suan Phlu. The Old Town has Ku Bar, a legitimate hideaway behind Brown Sugar, serving cocktails made with local goods. And Q&A Bar has become something of a gold standard for cocktail bars in Asoke (err, make that Bangkok). This hideaway comes by way of the Sugar Ray team, who are responsible for creating many of the best drink menus in the city.

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Vogue Lounge

Vesper bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE Other great cocktail bars, or restaurants with great bars, include: FooJohn (in Talad Noi), Zuma (St. Regis Hotel), Vogue Lounge, Rarb (by Escapade), Freedbird, Bad Motel, Il Fumo, and The Speakeasy (Hotel Muse). DIVE & LIVE MUSIC BARS If you’ve ended up at Wong’s, your night has not gone according to plan. It’s the ultimate walk-of-shame bar, a dark, smoky pit with a floor so sticky it elicits visceral reactions, where music videos from the 80s and 90s with a kind of perverse appeal loop all night and the action doesn’t even get good until after 2am—when all the nearby clubs have closed. Butts of the standing tend to rest on the shoulders of the seated, and the toilet is a sight so frightening it’s better off just not being written about. Wong’s is at once hideous, probably in violation of whatever building codes exist in this city, and one of the greatest dive bars on the planet. If the above sounds like it’s in your wheelhouse, you’re in good company. For as sophisticated and fantastic as the cocktail and craft beer bar scenes are nowadays, nothing beats a good dive, and Bangkok is blessed with

some of the best. Shades of Retro is not Wong’s, to be clear, but it also isn’t Backstage Bar. It occupies a house filled with antiques and collectibles (it doubles as a vintage shop), is very dimly lit, and has what appears to be a half-completed bar shelf hanging on by a thread. So the ambiance leans toward “Uncle Jerry’s house, but without the weird smells”. But it also happens to be one of the most reliable and coolest bars in town, serving great cocktails and playing deep cuts on the speakers, and always offering a good time. This bar, in the bowels of Thong Lor, has been open for 17 years, and let’s hope it stays open at least another 17. Also in a non-prime location in Thong Lor is Studio Lam. It’s tiny and cramped and somehow packs the people in for live sets from the likes of the Paradise Bangkok Molam Band (the owner is the highly respected Maft Sai, a founding member of the band and known crate-digger who also owns Zudrangma Records next door) and Rasmee. Crowds also come for the nightly run of DJs, who spin old and underground beats from across the world, especially Africa, the Caribbean, and Asia. It’s the place to go for good roots music and is clearly a favourite of the city’s young and cultured socialites. It gets bonus points

In 1987, eight years after Neil Young first sang “Hey hey, my my, rock and roll can never die”, Wannop Buranasitiporn opened Bangkok’s first venue dedicated purely to live rock music, simply named The Rock Pub. That venue, like Young, whose famous line was actually an expression of his fear of becoming obsolete, has endured perhaps far longer than Wannop ever imagined. Take the BTS to Ratchathewi, and there it still stands, a tribute to furious guitar solos and 250-bpm drum lines practically hidden in plain sight a few steps from Siam. Six nights a week, The Rock Pub puts on shows dedicated to different strains of rock, from Nirvanastyle grunge to Nu Metal, to Oasis-style rock, to punk. Over 30 years, the bar has survived a litany of national crises, including the Tom Yum Kung crisis in 1997 and too many political protests to count. About the only thing that has changed is the management. Since 2010, Wannop has settled into the background while his son, Nonthadet, who goes by ‘Tao’, has been running the show. Tao’s passion for rock music is palpable. He cites bringing some of his favourite artists, like the Deftones and Machinehead, to the bar for after-hours drinks as top memories. He plays in a metal band that caters to head-bangers, and he readily admits to loving rock “wholeheartedly”. “For the first 10 or 12 years, the bar was packed every day,” explains Tao, who grew up frequently going to shows and playing with older musicians at the bar. “Rock was mainstream, people craved live music, and we had all the best bands. Today rock is second-tier.” The Rock Pub’s continued popularity, then, is perhaps owed to Tao’s drive, although he credits word of mouth.

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Photo by Dave Crimaldi

LIVE MUSIC VENUE WITH A ROCK SOLID REPUTATION

“The younger generation didn’t grow up with the Rock Pub. They don’t know what it is,” he explains. “People come to a show, experience the atmosphere, and then tell all their friends about it. Sometimes, like the Nu Metal nights, we’re sold out but people beg us to get in. This is not a normal bar. I think we’re the only place in town where every seat in the house faces the stage. The music here is not background—it’s everything.” For fans of live rock shows, this timeless institution—and probably the most unique family business in town—still beckons. Tao and Wannop both hope to keep the show going for another 30 years so that future generations of rock fans have a place to gather. Channeling Neil Young, Wannop adds, “Rock may have changed, but it hasn’t died. It’s just adapted to changes. Rock never dies!”

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Photo by Dave Crimaldi

for serving an almost absurd range of ya dong, both neat and in fantastic cocktails. Over in the Sathorn area, also in a non-prime location, is Jam. Since opening a few years ago, this bar has earned serious street cred for its promotion of the city’s independent artists—filmmakers, DJs, bands, photographers, writers… you name it. It doesn’t serve

Soulbar

anything special from the bar, but you’re going here for the atmosphere anyway, or maybe to rub shoulders with fellow creative types. Check their Facebook page to see what events are going on each night. Co-run by a Wisconsin native, Fatty’s Bar & Diner on Rama IX Road naturally specializes in staples of the American heartland, such as gut-busting and delicious burgers, cheese curds, and cold craft beer. But this dive is also one of the best places to see up-and-coming rock bands perform live. Punk, folk, hardcore, and more, the bar plays host to all kinds of sounds. Saxophone is one of the oldest live music venues in town, still drawing crowds to that small soi beside the Victory Monument roundabout. Blues, ska, reggae,

Photo by David Jacobson

Fatty’s Bar & Diner

memorabilia. It’s weird, sure, but it also highlights the true diversity of Thai culture. For soul music the city’s specialist resides in Talad Noi. The always exciting Soulbar has been around a few years now, and is widely credited for being at the vanguard of the Chinatown revival. The space can only be described as intimate (it’s a renovated shophouse, after all), but that only adds to its appeal. The music here always delivers, especially on Wednesday and Friday, when Motherfunky and the Supergoods, respectively, hit the stage. Finally, this feature would be incomplete without mentioning Smalls. Run by nightlife luminary David Jacobson, Smalls has been the favourite bar and meet-up place for the city’s creative types for years. Decorated with eclectic, original art, and serving consistently

Danny Yeung at Smalls

Saxophone rock, and jazz make up the bill here. Settle in with mugs of beer and some spicy Thai salads, and you’ve got yourself the makings of a nice Friday night. Of course, it’s not a bad idea to start said night off at Raintree Pub, a 10-minute walk away in the same neighbourhood. At Raintree, Thai country and folk music fill a space that’s decorated with leather, buffalo horns, large wooden wagon wheels, and other Thai country-western 22 | SEP T EM BER 2017

good drinks— barman Danny Yeung is an expert, if understated, mixmaster—this spot is one of Bangkok’s true gems. The bar also features excellent cutting-edge live jazz every Wednesday night, as well as a monthly Vietnamese Pho night. Its location on Suan Phlu gives it a sort of hideaway feel, too, as if this can somehow be your own secret spot (even if it is shared by a multitude of other in-the-know locals). Some other wonderful dives and live music joints include: Black Cabin (see more on pg. 108), Hailiang, T-Rex, 12x12, Aderholt’s Annex at JUSMAG, Parking Toys’ Watt, and 23 Bar & Gallery. bangkok101.com

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THE VENERABLE BAMBOO GETS A RE-DO

The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok (48 Oriental Avenue) has been involved with a lot of firsts in Thai history. It was the first hotel, located along the first paved road. It opened the first hotel spa, and it was the first place that some of the most eminent authors of their eras— Conrad, Greene, Maugham—would go to upon arrival in Bangkok. The hotel also wears the crown of having the first jazz bar. The Bamboo Bar, which opened in 1953, can brag about a few firsts of its own. The bar has served the likes of Louis Armstrong, Eric Clapton, Audrey Hepburn, and Mick Jagger over the years. More recently, it has been named one of the 50 best bars in Asia. Not to mention it has pretty much always been the premier place for live jazz in Bangkok. Today, the bar wears a slightly different look. In 2015, it underwent its first major update in almost 20 years. The hotel hired award-winning local design firm P49 to handle the renovations. Considering all the history hanging from the hotel’s neck, it was no easy task. GM Amanda Hyndman has said the goal was to weave the past into the present. P49 managed to do that by restoring some of the bar’s original black rattan chairs and producing replicas of other furniture found in photos from the early 20th century. Other fixtures, like the apothecary-style bar, the curvaceous, Roaring

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20s-style font chosen for the insignia, and a mirrored ceiling, express the duality going on here: colonial times meet the modern day. Likewise, the designers’ choice to use bamboo, Thai silk, and animalprint patterns has elevated the physical setting by adding an air of the exotic. Even if it’s your first time at the bar, the atmosphere should feel familiar, as if you were lost in a Graham Greene novel. It’s not often that the renovation of a hotel bar merits so much attention. Then again, not every hotel is the Mandarin Oriental, and not every bar is Bamboo Bar. NOTE: The bar’s amazing live jazz band, which always features a stellar line up of local and international talent, can be heard from 9pm till midnight Sunday to Thursday, and from 9pm till 1am Fridays and Saturdays.

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Meet The Barkeep

Wareewan ‘Oil’ Yodkamol is the new star bartender at Bunker, where she calls–and pours–the shots By Bruce Scott

ince its opening, now over one year ago, Bunker has been a respected fixture on the Sathorn Soi 12 social scene. And while this three-storey resto is known to many for it’s fine dining flair and fare— contemporary American cuisine with innovative gourmet twists—an equal emphasis is put on the beverages. In fact, the cool concrete confines of the ground floor of Bunker is a very inviting spot in which to sit yourself down on any given evening and sample the curated cocktail list put together by Wareewan ‘Oil’ Yodkamol, the new resident barkeep. Khun Oil has been calling—and pouring—the shots here since about midJuly, and her straightforward approach is reflected in a cocktail list that leans heavily towards the classics, but still finds room to include a few of Oil’s original creations. Her previous stints at Zuma, Vesper, and most recently Freebird, make

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for an impressive resume, and so one dark and stormy night in August I spent an evening zig-zagging through her menu, discovering some wonderful gems along the way. I start with a classic Texas Mule (B320), a mix of Tito’s brand vodka, Fentiman’s ginger beer, mint, and lime. Served with plenty of ice, in a copper-coloured Tito’s metal mug, the soft-spoken bartendress informs me that it’s actually the only drink that survived from the old cocktail menu (proving she knows a good thing when she sees it). My companion, meanwhile, opts for the Bamboo (B300), which combines Amaro, an Italian herbal liqueur, with two types of vermouth— Carpano Dry, and Blanco. Served with a lemon twist it’s somewhat akin to a mild Negroni (Oil is a huge Negroni fan). Next up I ask to try one of Oil’s more “signature” concoctions, and bangkok101.com

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am rewarded with a Sail Away (B340), one of her ‘Rum & Tiki’ creations. It’s a refreshing mix of Plantation 3-star rum, spiced rum, citrus, and rice syrup, and the glass comes rimmed with crushed roasted rice—a nod to Thailand’s biggest export. My companion, meanwhile, is rewarded with an elegant R&R (B300), a frothy pink mix of gin, rosella and raisin, citrus, and egg white. Finally, we explore the more “Americana” style offerings on Oil’s hit list. Her tart and tasty Tennessee Lemonade (B340) contains just a hint of Ole Smokey Moonshine—together with vodka, lemon drop and pandan syrup—and certainly packs a punch. The same can be said of her smooth but sturdy Matador (B320), which combines reposado tequila, pineapple, and agave syrup. Served with a flame-torched slice of candied lime, it was both my finale and my favourite.

DINNER WITH DRINKS No trip to Bunker would be complete without ordering some of Chef Arnie Marcella’s amazing modern American specialties. And although the 2nd and 3rd floors here are where many guests choose to dine, full menu service is available for dining at the ground floor bar or the surrounding booths. The flavours in Chef Arnie’s dishes draw upon many sources—American, European, Latin American and Asian—while the ingredients themselves are as local and sustainable as possible. Menu highlights include: Cured Foie Gras Torchon (B550), served on a small circular brioche with pistachio and lychee; Locally Grown (B375), a mix of seasonal vegetables that come to the restaurant courtesy of a specially hired “forager”; and Wagyu Beef and Beet Tartare (B450), a sumptuous starter served with tofu cream, shaved Parmesan, and bagel crisps. As for mains, the selections are as varied as they are colourful and beautifully plated. Finally, from the dessert menu don’t miss the Banana Rum Baba (B325), with spiced rum, puffed barley, and banana toffee ice cream. Diners unable to decide can order one of Chef Arnie’s multi-course tasting menus, or opt for some of the gourmet bar snacks on offer, such as Eagle Rock oysters, confit duck croquettes, or customizable cheese plates. And don’t be shy about asking beverage consultant and sommelier Andreas Pergher for wine pairing suggestions.

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The Mile High Club

A sampling of the many rooftop sky bars scattered throughout Bangkok, offering panoramic views overlooking almost every part of the city AkaAza Bar

CENTRAL CHAR ROOFTOP BAR: The 26th floor of the Hotel Indigo is given over to the Char Rooftop Bar (one floor above Char, the restaurant). The skilled bartenders and the laid back vibe, combined with great views and comfortable seating, make it a supremely hip hangout spot. Hotel Indigo, 81 Wireless Rd.

RIVERSIDE

ATTITUDE: The views from Attitude, located on the 26th floor of the Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel, are unlike any others in the city—taking in the Asiatique waterfront shopping centre, the Chao Phraya River, and Bangkok’s glittering skyline in the distance. And despite the name, there’s no “attitude” at this supremely chic but always cheerful rooftop venue. RED SKY: Situated on the 55th floor of the Centara Grand at CentralWorld hotel, Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel, 257 the 360° views of Bangkok and its skyline Charoennakorn Rd. at Red Sky are superb. But for an even higher vantage point, ascend up a few THREE SIXTY: Just as the name would flights to Cru Champagne Bar, where— indicate, you’ll get a magical 360° view bubbly in hand—you really do feel like of Bangkok’s riverside skyline from the you’re on top of the world. Three Sixty rooftop bar, which occupies Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 the 31st floor of the Millennium Hilton Rama 1 Rd. Bangkok Hotel. Plus the ThreeSixty Jazz Lounge offers great live music. Millennium Hilton Bangkok Hotel, 123 THE ROOF: Situated 25 floors above Charoennakorn Rd. the bustling streets of Bangkok—atop the Siam@Siam hotel—The Roof Champagne & Wine Bar is a wonderful LEBUA SKY BAR: It’s one of Bangkok’s setting for a sunset or evening drink. most pre-eminent rooftop venues—it Enjoy international fine wines, superior was even featured in the film Hangover quality champagne, and unique martinis. 2—and as such the Lebua Sky Bar is as You can also ‘SkyDine’ at The Roof popular as it is pricey. The views from this Gastro, located on the hotel’s top floor. 63rd floor perch are epic, the rooftop’s Siam@Siam Design Hotel Bangkok, 865 golden dome is iconic, and they just Rama 1 Rd. added Alfresco 64, which is now the 26 | SEP T EM BER 2017

world’s highest outdoor whisky bar. Lebua State Tower, 1055/42 Silom Rd. SILOM/SATHORN AKAAZA BAR: With a name that means “sky” in Sanskrit, AkaAza Bar lives up to its moniker. Located on level 26 of the Amara Bangkok hotel—next to the sky-high infinity swimming pool—this energetic rooftop spot offers lovely views, great drinks, tasty snacks, and a live DJ spinning techno beats. Amara Bangkok, 180/1 Surawong Rd. VERTIGO: The aptly named Vertigo & Moon Bar is located on the 61st floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel, just above the hotel’s Vertigo Too restaurant. From this dizzying height guests receive outstanding, unobstructed 360° views of the Bangkok skyline and its surroundings, and a drink menu that includes premium champagnes, exotic cocktails, fine wines, and more. It’s worth the splurge! Banyan Tree Hotel, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. ZOOM: Located on the 40th floor of the Anantara Bangkok Sathorn hotel, Zoom specializes in French cuisine with an Asian twist. There’s a large bar and a dance floor—music provided by live bangkok101.com

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Vanilla Sky

Octave

Char Rooftop Bar Bangkok Sukhumvit 20. Fantastic cocktails and delicious snacks are the order of the day at Sky on 20, and from Wednesday to Sunday live DJs perform. Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20, 19/9 Sukhumvit Soi 20 Sky on 20

SUKHUMVIT STRIP

Leapfrog, located on the 8th floor of the Galleria 10 Hotel Bangkok. There’s a daily 2-for-1 Happy Hour from 6pm till 8pm, and the menu features international selections and tapas-like specialties. Galleria 10 Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 10

BREWSKI: Combining rooftop views and a casual laid back vibe with a bar dedicated to serving amazing craft beer has made Brewski a unique and special venue. The views from the Radisson Blu Plaza’s 30th floor are pretty sweet, while the pub grub ranges from spicy Thai bar snacks to meaty beef burgers. Radisson Blu Plaza, 489 Sukhumvit Rd.

OCTAVE: Towering over Thong Lor, the dazzling Octave Rooftop Bar boasts one of Bangkok’s best 360° panoramic views. Located 45 stories above street level, atop the Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, this sleek and sophisticated rooftop hotspot also reaches new heights with fabulous, creative cocktails and tasty menu items. Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57

LEAPFROG: Not all rooftop bars needs to be at dizzying heights, as exemplified by

SKY ON 20: This garden-like roof terrace occupies the 26th floor of the Novotel

DJs—and terrific views over Bangkok’s lively Sathorn district. Anantara Bangkok Sathorn, 36 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd.

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VANILLA SKY: Tasty cocktails, fantastic 360° views, and a nightclub party atmosphere make Vanilla Sky one of the city’s top rooftop spots—located on the 36th floor of the Compass Skyview Hotel. Compass Skyview, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 24 UPTOWN BLUE SKY: Located in the north end of Bangkok, on the 24th floor of the Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao, Blue Sky offers unencumbered views of Chatuchak Park, the Chao Phraya River, and Bangkok’s skyline in the distance. Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao, 1695 Phahonyothin Rd. NOTE: For an extended online guide to Bangkok’s many rooftop bars visit: www.therooftopguide.com/rooftopbars-in-bangkok.html SEP T EM BER 2017 | 27

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Proper Pub Crawl

Whether you prefer amber nectar or black gold, Bangkok pubs resound with shouts of “Ale have another one, please!” By Robin Westley Martin

herever your travels around the world may take you, you are pretty much guaranteed to find a British or Irish-styled drink spot in whichever city you set yourself down in. Once inside, a nice pint of tasty brown bitter, a golden lager, a satisfying black stout, or a cool refreshing cider are all readily available for your sipping pleasure. These days, wine bars and cocktail lounges are definitely more “trendy”, but for many imbibers nothing beats the welcoming feel of a proper pub—and Bangkok has plenty of great ones. Of course, pubs have never been just about what there is to drink there, and this is even more true in the new Millennium. To satisfy customers nowadays, publicans who want to stay on top of the game have to offer a variety of temptations to entice punters through the door, such as good food, live sports, comedy shows, live music, etc. But perhaps the overriding factor is the landlord/manager of the establishment itself. It is often the managers of the places you visit that you will most remember, and who will make you wish to return for another visit. During the course of our pub crawl you’ll get to meet a few of these engaging characters. We’ll start with the mid-Sukhumvit area, around the Phrom Phong BTS station, where you can find three excellent venues. The Robin Hood is a pub in the English style that attracts mostly Brits, but with a healthy mix of Aussies and Americans, as well as some local Thai regulars and wandering tourists. It has been at the corner of Sukhumvit Road and Soi 33/1 for over 10 years, and is a

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well-established favourite. The manager is Billy, and he is always on hand to meet his regulars and chat with new customers. Just look for the handsome bald guy flitting around the room. They serve great food, of which the most popular item is currently the Steak and Ale Pie. Live sports is shown on 20 TVs, as well as two large projector screens, and Happy Hour is from 4pm to 7pm daily, when you can partake of British ales, local beers, and a range of ciders. Next up is The Royal Oak, ably run by Jimmy (who never seems to stop). It’s located directly on Soi 33/1, and there has been a pub on this same site for over 20 years. The Royal Oak offers Wednesday Quiz Nights, stand-up comedy upstairs every Friday (sometimes with international guest stars), live sports, and more. Happy Hour is from 4pm to 8pm, Monday through Sunday, for your imported and local beers or ciders. From the menu the most popular dish at the moment is Cod and Chips—a real taste of Old England. Join the crowd, where you will find yourself rubbing shoulders with Western expats, locals, and Japanese (the Phrom Phong area has many Japanese expat residents). The last place on Soi 33/1, and the first Irish watering hole on our list, is Herrity’s. Here you will meet Nick, and he was happy to tell me that as Herrity’s is part of a hotel, there is really no “closing time”. Nick explained how his customers are mostly Japanese and local Thais, with a small but regular group of expats. Try to make it the first stop on your pub tour, because the most popular meal here is the breakfast, served until 11am every day. And

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best of bkk | CITY PULSE

The Royal Oak

The Drunken Leprechaun

Hanrahan’s Irish Pub

Fish and Chips at The Royal Oak

on Fridays you can have cod, chips, and a beer for only B299! Happy Hour lasts from 11am to 8pm every day, and you have the choice of a black gold, cider, or a range of imported and local beers. You can also join the pub’s chess or computer club. Moving along Sukhumvit Rd, to the area near the Asok BTS station, we encounter two more great pub style drink spots. The Black Swan, owned and managed by Dave, is located on Sukhumvit Soi 19 (about 200 yards up from the Sukhumvit main road). It moved from its previous location on Sukhumvit Road—underneath the skytrain overhang, just a few hundred yards away—but it still retains the feel of a ‘real’ English pub, somehow transported halfway around the world. The Black Swan has a cozy feel to it, and the regulars—who dutifully followed when it changed locations—love to sit around the bar and chat. Dave is old school, and he really knows how to make his customers feel welcome. After a visit here you are pretty likely to return to the Swan’s welcoming arms, to just quietly while away a few hours, joining in conversations with Dave and his friends. Happy Hour is from 3pm to 9pm daily throughout the year, and the current food fave is the typically English Bangers n’ Mash. Luxury! Now along to Sukhumvit Soi 15, where The Drunken Leprechaun is nestled away on the ground floor of the Four Points by Sheraton hotel. You know you are in for something different when you are greeted at the entrance

by actual leprechauns (Thai “little people” in costume). It’s a medium-sized place, with the typical dark wood and emerald green that you’d expect in an Irish pub. The manager here is Hoania, and he takes pride in his establishment. And he’s more than happy to pass the time of day with you, when the place is not too busy… which isn’t very often. Live music is one of the staples here, and you can oil your wheels by taking advantage of the Happy ‘Hour’, which lasts from 12 noon to 8pm (when the entertainment begins). Sport is also popular, and during their showing of English Premier league matches there are special deals on Singha beer. They also have a great selection of food, but the Irish Stew here always goes down well. The last place on the Sukhumvit leg is Hanrahan’s Irish Pub on Sukhumvit Soi 4 (near Nana BTS station). Breakfast here is popular with the tourists staying in the nearby hotels, or with the expats residing in nearby condos and apartments. However, things really start to liven up after 4pm when the four-hour Happy Hour begins. Hanrahan’s is quite a big place, and as it is in a popular tourist area it sees quite a big turnover. The people you bump into here are mostly Westerners—either expat locals, or tourists—who pack the place out when popular sporting events are being screened. I go there myself to watch F1 on their big screen TVs or projectors. The food is great, and their homemade 100 percent beef hamburgers are delicious.

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CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Molly Malone’s

Brewmaster Peter at The Londoner

Lots of choice at The Londoner

The final two spots on our jaunt around Bangkok are located in very different ends of the city. The first, Molly Malone’s, is on Convent Road, just off Silom Road (near the Sala Daeng BTS station). It’s a good place to escape the bustle of busy Silom, and given that it is only a few yards down Convent Road, it is a welcoming oasis for local expats who work nearby, many of whom also like to bring their Thai colleagues along. Sporting events are always being screened, and tourists exploring the area are often tempted inside. Irish beers and ciders are their best sellers, Tim the manager told me, especially during the Happy Hour, which lasts from 4pm to 7pm—when you can grab a beer for as little as 75 baht. Finally, winding up this pub trek around Bangkok, there’s no better inn to end up in than The Londoner, now located on Phattanakarn Road between Sois 32 and 30. It is the only purpose-built British pub in Bangkok, and it’s also the oldest microbrewery in the city (it first opened in 1997, and was originally located on Sukhumvit Soi 33). In its current location the building itself is new, but once you enter the doors you feel as though you are in an old style ‘local’. The décor is essentially Brit, as is the beer they brew, even though Peter the designated brewmaster hails from Germany. He has been producing Brit style beers at the Londoner (he was at the old pub, too) for 17 years, and is inordinately proud of his craft. The manager here is Damian, and he also is immensely proud of his place of work. And as I was shown around the well-proportioned building, his enthusiasm became infectious—especially after I was treated to a sample of their most popular brews. I tried three of their microbrew beers, of which my favourite was the Londoner Brew IPA, closely followed by the Londoner’s Pilsner, and the new low carb beer. Damian pointed out that from Monday to Friday the clientele here is mostly Thai, whereas Saturdays it’s 50 percent Thai, 50 percent Westerners, and Sundays

see mostly expats and their visiting friends stopping by for food, ale, and chat. The Londoner’s food is some of the best you will find in the city, which comes as no surprise as their chef is the captain of the Thai Cooking Team. They offer live music on Fridays and Saturdays, and if you over-indulged on a Saturday night head to The Londoner come Sunday morn for the ‘Bloody Mary Bar’, wherein you design your very own pick-me-up drink with fruits, vegetables, and a vast array of condiments and spices. And if you have managed to cover all the places listed in this article. It might be just the place in which to recover. Cheers! Slainte!

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OKTOBERFEST IS COMING! Although it began as a German tradition, Oktoberfest is a beer celebration that is now enjoyed all over the world. In Bangkok there are many bars that make the most of this annual event (which actually begins in mid-September), and the fact that The Drunken Leprechuan is an Irish Pub doesn’t stop them from offering great Oktoberfest deals. From September 16th to October 3rd, enjoy classic German dishes such as Grilled Sausage Platter and Pork Knuckle, and quench your thirst with esteemed imported brews such as Erdinger Weissbier, Weihenstephan, and Paulaner Weissbier—all are available at irresistible prices!

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CITY PULSE | music makers

On the Beat

Live music takes centre stage at these Bangkok bars By Rianka Mohan

ur city is no slouch when it comes to live music. On any given night, amid her sweltering sois, can be found a joint with a mic and a melody in a genre of your choosing, whether it’s sultry jazz at Adhere 13th Blues Bar, acoustic folk pop at Play Yard, or takeno-prisoners ska music at Parking Toys. But unlike many metropolises, Bangkok is one where music events are often advertised with little publicity outside Facebook, and word of mouth goes a long way in ferreting out gems. This month, I lay down some of my go-to haunts that routinely offer compelling music. I also check in with couple-about-town Sienna De L’Orpaz and Sean Carter (aka: UNDA) for local tips. She’s editor of avant-garde magazine The Editor, and he’s a multifaceted rapper and musician whose latest venture, ‘Kai Dao’, is an exciting monthly party that features live jam sessions from underground Thai rappers like ProtoZua. The locations— which have included Black Cabin Bar in the past—are revealed closer to event date so best check their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/kaidao.friedegg. We begin in Old Town Bangkok, zooming in on a particular strip of Charoenkrung Road, where within spitting distance of each other lie three memorable establishments catering to music aficionados. If you’re in the market for unique acts, look no further than the ground floor bar of three-storeyed Soy Sauce Bar, which moonlights (as many as six times a month) as a space for emerging musicians, both local and international. A random evening visit introduced me to Japanese rockabilly and most notably, this past May, it hosted the farewell show of Thailand’s brilliant indie punk-rock band Degaruda. Around the corner is cozy SoulBar, a favourite of UNDA’s and Sienna’s, that from Wednesday to Saturday showcases soul and funk bands who play everything from Motown classics to jazz. The vibe is chill and on balmy evenings the party spills out onto the sidewalk. A stone’s throw away is newcomer FooJohn Building, in which a French bistro, a cocktail bar, and a rooftop smokehouse vie for your attention. While veteran DJ Justin Mills spins on Wednesdays, join them every Thursday and Sunday as they branch out into live sound with an in-house pianist. Come for the food; stay for the joie de vivre. I’d be remiss if I didn’t hail this fourth treasure down the river that can be reached by a romantic ferry ride from nearby River City pier. Step back in time at The Bamboo Bar at Mandarin Oriental Hotel, an iconic staple for some of the city’s best live jazz. Bring your pearls and your discerning ear. 32 | SEP T EM BER 2017

Jenny & The Scallywags perform at Play Yard Not to be outdone is snaking Sukhumvit Road with a plethora of live music venues hidden in its folds. I highlight two that take it up a notch musically. Hardto-locate 12x12 is a crammed hipster hotspot hugging a corner of secluded soi Tararom and its social media page is, perhaps deliberately, nondescript. But boy, does it provide a platform for some unexpected and eclectic music—the post-punk stylings of Stylish Nonsense, the funk rhythm of The Lowdowns, and the reggae dub of Hexthree, among others. Best place to discover an artist or even a quirky genre. Further afield, on Sukhumvit Soi 69, on the third floor of Japanese restaurant Okinawa Kinjo, sits the intimate concert room, LiveCube, that owes its quality acoustics to sound engineer Gabriele Guidi. The excellent line up is Japanese-centric but wedged between those shows is often a welcome surprise—Thai country molam bands, crooners from Cameroon, and to my pleasure, fellow-Indian and soulful singersongwriter, Mali. Again, their Facebook page is best for information albeit of a limited nature. For an open-air, beer-in-hand, seats-onstools experience, Sienna recommends the Ratchada Train Market, close to Esplanade Shopping mall (Thailand Cultural Centre MRT station). “It’s my place to take visiting friends and give them a feel for the pulse of Bangkok. There’s delicious street food, cheap drinks and best of all, super fun, original rock bands at bars like Speakerbox.” So shrink not, violet, head out the door, and explore. The Bangkok music scene may be discreet but it definitely delivers. bangkok101.com

Dream Wedding Destination Tie-the-knot at this seafront sanctuary

The secluded Nai Yang Beach, located on the pristine northwest coast of Phuket, provides the perfect setting to pledge your life-long vows to your partner. As the only international hotel on this sublime stretch of sand, Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach offers not only magniﬁcent views of the Andaman Sea and stunning natural scenery, but also vast outdoor spaces, services, and facilities to cater to all types of dream weddings. Since opening in 2016, Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach has developed a strong standing in the wedding sector. To date, the resort has successfully hosted ten weddings, building a reputation for exceeding the expectations of discerning couples. From lavish

occasions to simple ceremonies, luxurious ballroom receptions to casual beach parties, Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach provides a dream destination package for every couple. All events are handled with a care and attention-to-detail by the resort’s certiﬁed event planners, professional chefs, ﬂoral specialists, and other wedding experts. With a choice of creative set-ups, dynamic concepts and distinct venues, Phuket Marriott Resort and Spa, Nai Yang Beach exceeds every expectation. www.phuketmarriottnaiyang.com

CITY PULSE | on the block

Soi 11’s Still Got It! With the openings of new restaurants, bars, and clubs, this nightlife stronghold remains steadfast

Insanity

By Kelly Harvey

ver the last two decades Soi 11 has seen dozens, if not hundreds, of bars come and go. With the removal of the street-side alcohol vans, food vendors, and, most recently, the closure of the unnamed sub-soi that housed Cheap Charlie’s, The Alchemist, and Stash bar among others, many predicted the end for this nightlife hotspot and expected that it would become just another soulless Sukhumvit soi filled to the brim of hotels, condominiums, and tourist-attracting restaurants. The removal of the street vendors in October of 2016, in particular, caused an uproar among local-residents and business owners—some over the moon that pavements would be clear, while others felt that it stripped the soi

Several nightlife establishments have also opened within the past six months, bringing with them a touch of class and sophistication to the neighbourhood, while others remain as popular as ever. Newcomer to the block, Alex Brasserie opened in April of this year and offers French and Mediterranean cuisine served up by chef Arnaud Drouvillé, who previously served as Executive chef in Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto’s Bangkok kitchen. The décor is modern but classic, and the eye-catching circular bar allows guests to enjoy creative cocktails and take in panoramic views of the surrounding hustle and bustle. Also serving up French fare is Soho Hospitality’s newest venture, Brasserie Cordonnier. Staying true to Soho’s DNA, this authentic Parisian restaurant combines two of the most recognized aspects of French culture: food and fashion. At the helm of the kitchen is Chef Clement Hernandez, who rolls out French classics as well as a few of his own unique creations. The drinks

Alex Brasserie of character and personality. Now, almost a year later, many have crept back and continue to operate on a smaller scale but the pavements remain significantly more pedestrian-friendly. 34 | SEP T EM BER 2017

Brasserie Cordonnier bangkok101.com

on the block | CITY PULSE

Sukhumvit Soi 11 Nightlife Guide

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Sukhumvit Soi 11

menu hosts a catalogue of specially sourced fine wines and spirits, alongside an array of unique French inspired cocktails concocted by Davide Sambo, Soho’s Group Mixologist. Don’t be too surprised if a lightbulb arrives at your table—that will be the Lumière cocktail. The bar spaces on third and fourth floor were only recently unveiled to the public, and it was definitely worth the wait. In an ode to Christian Louboutin the walls are adorned in rows upon rows of women’s shoes while the playful cocktails are inspired by designer shoe houses. In the bathrooms you’ll even hear a recording of Christian Louboutin describe his love for designing shoes.

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Above Eleven Among Soho’s other famed bars and restaurants in Soi 11 are Above Eleven, Charcoal Tandoor Grill & Mixology, and Havana Social, each offering unique concepts that draw in crowds almost every night of the week. Above Eleven rooftop bar and restaurant on the 33rd floor of Fraser Suites Sukhumvit has made it on to several lists naming Bangkok’s best skybars, and it’s no wonder why with its urban park themed décor, potent signature cocktails, and Peruvian Japanese cuisine coupled with its extensive views of downtown Bangkok (but the best view by far though is in the bathrooms). Downstairs, on the 5th floor, Charcoal presents the perfect balance between traditional Indian tandoori cooking and innovative mixology in a modern, industrial-chic setting. Just across the road from Fraser Suites in a small sub-soi, the telefono sign of Havana Social is still shining bright. While it’s no longer necessary to dial the secret code to open the door (the venue proved to be too popular for that), the Latin-inspired drinks are still flowing and music is still playing late into the night. And like any Latin-themed venue should be, the atmosphere is always alive and festive with the crowds showing off their salsa moves on the dance floor. Atop of the Le Fenix Hotel, Nest offers a more casual rooftop bar experience. Located on the eighth floor, the views are less impressive than other rooftop bars in Bangkok, but with oversized daybeds, an impressive cocktail list, and the sound of melodic music in the background you’ll be too relaxed to notice. Plus, with lower heights comes lower prices. The den-like Victorian inspired Apoteka prides itself in being a Blues orientated music venue and has a sterling line up of bands and singers performing every night of the week. As for the menu, unique apothecary-themed bangkok101.com

Sukhumvit Rd

Nana BTS Station

1. Havana Social 2. Charcoal 3. Above Eleven 4. Nest 5. Brasserie Cordonnier 6. Apoteka 7. Insanity 8. Mashmallow 9. Brew 10. Levels 11. Oskar Bistro 12. Mulli’s Sports Bar 13. Alex Brasserie 14. Australian Pub 15. Sugar 16. 8 on Eleven 17. Zak’s

cocktails, an assortment of craft beers, and hearty dishes that comfort the soul are all on offer. Although Marshmallow Kitchen & Bar doesn’t receive much attention on social media, this underrated chicboutique style bar has been going strong since 2011. Now that our beloved Cheap Charlies is no more, Marshmallow fills the void in terms of cheap drinks with a daily happy hour special of B100 gin, rum, and vodka drinks, plus local beers, from 5pm to 8pm. Thai dishes and nibbles make ideal accompaniments to after work drinks or an early dinner.

Oskar Bistro Trendy Oskar Bistro is known for both its funfactor and fare. Its Mediterranean-inspired menu is the handiwork of Michelin-starred restaurant collaborator Julien Lavigne. Cocktails and wine are in no short supply, SEP T EM BER 2017 | 35

CITY PULSE | on the block Also in July, Levels celebrated its 5th anniversary with a huge free party. Housed on the 6th floor of the Aloft Hotel, this popular dance spot has attracted many international celebrities over the years including party boy Tobey Maguire and music sensation T-Pain. On a smaller scale, 8 On Eleven is both a gastro bar and club, with the dance area housed on the second floor. This modern industrial-finished venue offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes—with a modern twist to match its modern décor. But if you’re looking to get down and dirty, dedicated hip hop nightclub Sugar is the place to go with energetic hip hop DJs and dancers performing every night. Havana Social nor is entertainment with some of Bangkok’s best DJs spinning tunes every night of the week. Themed parties are held all-year round, adding to Oskar’s reputation as a go-to venue on the Soi 11 strip. Living up to its name, Brew Beers & Ciders offers an impressive list of 500 imported beers and ciders. The venue is not large, but that doesn’t matter when you have an array of ice cold beers at your fingertips. Daniel Thaiger burgers are also on offer with a permanent kiosk set up right next door. By contrast, Zak’s advertises itself as a wine bar, and hosts the occasional salsa dance night up on its second floor. Sports fanatics will be more than satisfied with Australian Pub & BBQ and Mulli’s Sports Bar streaming sports every day of the week. Both venues offer good ol’ hearty food and plenty of beers on tap, ciders, wines, and spirits. Come late evening when the live matches are done and dusted, Australian Pub’s famous band takes over the stage and keeps the crowds dancing all night long. If it’s an entire night of dancing you’re after, Soi 11 is home to four nightclubs, each with its own unique identity. In July of this year, Insanity—previously located on Sukhumvit Soi 12—held the grand opening party of its new venue. Over 1,200 guests, including the who’s who of Bangkok’s party-scene, were in attendance to see the opening of this new “super club”. The hanger style interior boasts 14-metre high ceilings, a retractable halo lighting system, and a French made L-Acoustic sound system. The club also promises international and local DJs seven days a week.

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OTHER NOTEWORTHY NIGHTCLUBS CE LA VIE: One of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, this vast and glittering club is located on the 39th floor of Sathorn Square. It boasts impressive skyscraper ceilings, and a long window that affords an exceptional view. The music is orientated towards the commercial side, but international guest DJs—from various genres—often make appearances on the roster to mix it up. BEAM: Located on the upper tier of Thong Lor’s Courtyard 72, this club has a minimalistic warehouse look to it but boasts a state of the art sound system and visual equipment. Downstairs, lounge style Dalmatian Room plays laid back electro beats, while the main room upstairs offers deep house and techno, with international acts performing regularly. Taking ques from world-renowned nightclub Fabric in London, the subwoofers are placed under the dancefloor so partygoers can feel literally the bass in every beat. BLAQ LYTE: This Thong Lor hotspot, on the 2nd floor of Badmotel, is a neon-lit, 90’s style hip hop venue that throws parties for a good cause. Each month, owner Nick Supreda donates a portion of the profits to his orphan charity 32 Foundation. SING SING THEATER: Tucked away on Sukhumvit Soi 45, this theatrical venue is decorated in Hollywoodesque Chinoiserie straight out of the 1930s. The Far East-inspired interior design is the handiwork of prolific Bangkok-based designer Ashley Sutton, and features a Chinese lantern-adorned ceiling, dark-wooded bars and furniture, and wrought iron pattern work. The interior space stretches across four floors, and six split levels—with the dancefloor in the centre. As for the music, expect a well-curated line up of house DJs. MIXX DISCOTECHQUE: Classier than most of Bangkok’s after hour dance clubs, this nightlife mainstay, located below the InterContinental Hotel, is a two-room affair—one playing hip hop and R&B, while the other does house and techno—and remains one of the city’s few remaining late-night party destinations.

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made in thailand | CITY PULSE

Sinful Sweets

Desserts with a kick at Hazel’s Ice Cream Parlor & Fine Drinks

Smokey Sour

or most people, the concept of booze mixed with ice cream begins and ends with rum raisin. And while this particular ice cream flavour is a personal favourite of mine, a recent visit to Hazel’s Ice Cream Parlor & Fine Drinks has proven that bourbon, whiskey, and even stout can also find a home in milkshakes, floats, and (especially) sundaes. Located in Bangkok’s Old Town, this intimate 2-storey shophouse venue evokes a bygone era. Subdued lighting, old tyme jazz playing in the background, and a bar that resembles a 1920s soda fountain shop all contribute to the sepia-toned, warm and welcoming vibe. Meanwhile, a rather large (and still operable) original 1940s Heildelberg Windmill printing press sits majestically at the entranceway, a nod to the property’s former resident—a print shop that was in operation until just a few years ago. “My husband’s from this neighbourhood, and he’s very passionate about the local culture, and history of the area,” explains coowner Regan ‘Suzuki’ Pairojmahakij. “The way this part of the old city is broken down is by occupation. This street [Chakkrapatipong Road] housed a lot of wooden frame shops, photography studios, printing presses, and print shops.” bangkok101.com

Heildelberg Windmill printing press The ice creams themselves also have an artisanal link, as they are prepared by Farm To Table, a Bangkokbased organic produce company with several shops in town featuring organic ice creams. “But it’s the first time they’ve made alcoholic ice cream,” notes Regan with a chuckle. Hazel’s menu offers five kinds of artisanal ice cream, including three with booze: namely bourbon, rum, and stout. Dessert drinks also pack a punch—try the smooth as silk Fudge Bourbon Milkshake (B220) with vanilla ice cream, chocolate fudge, plus a shot of bourbon—while the selection of sundaes includes some with a kick and some without. The Green Fairy Sundae (B250) gets its kick from absinthe ice cream, which is then combined with meringue, dark caramel sauce, mint syrup, candied pomelo, and whipped cream. By contrast, the decadent and delicious Great Grandma Hazel Sundae (B240), named after Regan’s Great Grandmother in Canada, is a sweet but sober mix of Madagascar vanilla ice cream, salted chocolate ice cream,

Marou chocolate sauce, waffles, and whipped cream, all topped with chewy candied orange peels. Alongside all the tasty treats on the menu there is an impressive selection of amber spirits, with dozens of scotch whiskies (including several from Japan), bourbons, and rye whiskies to savour, as well as several Thai craft beers available on tap. But don’t overlook the cocktail page of the menu where selections are designated by category: Malt and Grain; 100% Malt; and Corn & Grain. All it took for me was one sip of the Smokey Sour (B360)—which sees Laphroaig 10-year-old sharing a glass tumbler with an oversized ice cube, house syrup, Angostura bitters, and lemon—and I knew I’d found my new favourite drink. by Bruce Scott

Hazel’s Ice Cream Parlor & Fine Drinks 171 Chakkrapatipong Rd. Tel: 095 918 9898 Open: Tue-Sun, 5pm-11pm www.facebook.com/hazelsparlor

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CITY PULSE | out & about

Cabaret Queen

The multi-talented Xuan Xu adds drama to Bangkok’s nightlife scene By Bruce Scott

ife on the streets of Bangkok is—at once—bizarre, unpredictable, and downright theatrical. The same, however, cannot always be said of this city’s nightlife scene, where predictability is the norm and finding something out of the ordinary can be a challenge. One Bangkok resident intent on shaking things up is Xuan Xu (above left). Born into an artistic family—her mother is a Beijing Opera performer, and her father a Chinese Wu Shu master who appeared in martial arts movies—she lived in China till the age of seven and then spent her formative years in Germany, greatly influenced by her parents’ artistic lives and the cultural milieu that surrounded her. “I grew up with a lot of Parisian-style, French-influenced entertainment,” she says. Xuan first came to Thailand in 2009, on an internship, but it was her return visit in 2013—while working for a German consulting firm—that she crossed paths with Ashley and Sonja Sutton, just as they were launching Maggie Choo’s. This was to become the turning point in Xuan’s professional life. She created an early production for Maggie Choo’s and soon after decided to pursue a career in the entertainment industry. In 2015 she was involved with the genesis Sing Sing Theater (another

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Ashley Sutton designed space), creating edgy costumes for the performers, and producing themed productions. She spent 15 months as the art director of Sing Sing Theater but her focus these days is on standalone productions— her latest being the dinner show production Flavortale, currently being performed every Wednesday evening at Medici Kitchen & Bar at the Hotel Muse. “For me, as an ordinary person living in Bangkok, I was always missing the cultural part of the nightlife scene,” Xuan explains during a quick pre-performance chat. “I mean, we do have it here, but it’s more underground. So we have the one extreme which is artistic underground performances and exhibitions, and then the very commercialized entertainment. But there’s nothing in-between. bangkok101.com

out & about | CITY PULSE

“In other cities, from Berlin to Las Vegas, you have something in-between which is very entertaining, easily comprehended, and delightful—but also cultural. This is something that is missing overall in Asia. Even in Singapore and Hong Kong you don’t find it. This is why I feel very grateful for Hotel Muse and Nicolas Peth, the hotel’s GM. Nicolas is a great art lover and when we sat down together to discuss this project I said I would like to take the risk and do something new.” The show, subtitled “Imagine Flavors Can Dance”, presents three separate staged dance interludes which are performed as the audience enjoys dinner, or drinks, or both. Each dance represents a flavour grouping, beginning with Spice, moving on to Sugar, and culminating with a hip hop ode to Salt & Pepper, to the tune of—you guessed it—80s hip hop icons Salt-N-Pepa. Costumes are a big part of the spectacle, and Xuan designs each of the outfits herself (with the help of local costume makers). The ‘Spice’ portion, which opens the show, features five female dancers dressed in demonic red and black form-fitting outfits that borrow as much from S&M fetish wear as they do from Italian Carnevale masked balls. Four of the dancers form a ring around the central character—a trained flamenco dancer—who stomps out a fiery rhythm on the small wooden stage, accompanied by original music composed by local musician and DJ Scott Hess (see pg. 14). After a short break, and another course served to diners, the show resumes with ‘Sugar’, wherein the female dancers return—accompanied by a lone male dancer— decked out in brightly coloured fanciful princess gowns, performing mini-choreographies to the sounds of instantly bangkok101.com

recognizable pop tunes. The third and final set sees one more male dancer join the throng, and the two guys—with silver salt and pepper shaker lids on their heads—cavort with the ladies who are this time sporting outfits that give a nod to Lady Gaga’s famous ‘meat dress’. “It’s only three small shows but a lot of energy has been put into it, developing the concept and so on,” Xuan points out as we enjoy a post-performance talk. “I think Bangkok can be a great stage for this type of dinner theatre entertainment. I also really love local performers, but Thai dancers don’t enjoy the attention like they do elsewhere. So my wish is to one day provide them with a stage where they can fully do what they love. “Ashley Sutton, introduced me to this life I am living now,” Xuan admits, as we speak about her artistic inspirations. “He’s my mentor, and what he’s doing in terms of interior design is what I want to do in setting the trend for entertainment. We don’t want to only put on a beautiful show, we also see we have a mission to prompt others to dare to do the same thing.” www.facebook.com/xuxua

ABOUT MEDICI KITCHEN & BAR

Located on the basement level of the Hotel Muse, Medici Kitchen & Bar is no stranger to mixing theatrics with fine dining, as they present pop-opera band Fivera nightly between 8:30pm and 10pm. However, until September 27th Wednesday evenings are given over to Flavortale, an original stage show that combines extravagant visual effects, glamorous costumes, and striking dance performances (beginning promptly at 8pm). Doors open at 6:30pm for guests wishing to enjoy dinner and show, and here Chef Nicolino Lalla shows off the vibrancy of his new menu with tantalizing selections such as: traditional Sardinian style lobster salad with mixed greens, red onion, cherry tomato, and celery (B590); chicken breast wrapped with pancetta, filled with mozzarella cheese, sundried tomato, and truffle sauce (B780); and grilled grass-fed beef tenderloin sliced with rocket, Grana Padano, and balsamic reduction (B1,100). Those not ordering dinner are also welcome to attend—bar seating is available—and there is no admission fee. For reservations call 02 630 4000. www.medici-italian-restaurant-bangkok.com

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CITY PULSE | the morning after

Hangover Helpers By Kelly Harvey

dmittedly I’ve had my fair share of hangovers in this city. Some so bad that I’ve even had to crawl on my hands and knees to fetch water. But over the years I have, thankfully, found a few sure-fire cures to get rid of the “I’m never drinking again” moments. First and most importantly being water, and copious amounts of it. The humidity and heat only intensify the headaches and queasiness, and being dehydrated spells disaster. If you can, drink an entire bottle of water (and pop two paracetamol while you’re at it) before bed. This significantly decreases the severity of a hangover and can sometimes even prevent it. Otherwise be sure to always have a fridge filled with cold water for the morning after. Keeping hydrated really is key to dealing a Bangkok-hangover, so stock up on coconut water, sachets of Royal-D rehydration powders and, my personal favourite, M-Sport electrolyte drinks—all available at your 7-Eleven. When it comes to food, we all have that one food that we crave when we’re hungover. But skip the McDonald’s, head to your nearest Isaan street vendor and order a big bowl of tom saep—a fragrant clear soup loaded with lemongrass, ginger, and chilli. The soft stewed meat that

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comes with it is easy to digest and the spicy broth will help you sweat out those toxins. A greasy portion of gai tod (fried chicken) with sweet chilli sauce is always a good accompaniment. For a more “holistic” treatment, Thai author and spa expert Chami Jotisalikorn suggests a Thai herbal steam as the best way to cope with a hangover. The typical ingredients used are native herbs such as lemongrass, Kaffir lime and Kaffir lime leaves, turmeric, galangal, plai, pandanus leaves, ginger, camphor,

and tamarind leaves. These herbs have natural healing properties that stimulate blood circulation, detoxify the body, relieve muscle tension, and clear the respiratory system. And though you can find many luxurious spas in Bangkok (and beyond) offering Thai herbal steam treatments, it’s easy to make your own DIY Thai herbal hangover helper at home. Simply boil the herbal ingredients in water, take the water off the stove and pour it into a bowl. Let it cool down a wee bit, then place your head over the bowl and create a tent over your head and bowl with a cloth or towel. Inhale the steam, and let the herbal ingredients work their magic!

HANGOVER BRUNCH If your idea of a hangover cure is to just keep the party going, then head to the Altitude indoor/ outdoor rooftop lounge at The Westin Grande Sukhumvit (259 Sukhumvit Rd), for the once-a-month Westin Hangover Brunch party. This free, adults only, day-party includes plenty to eat and drink, plus daybeds for lounging, as well as entertainment from live DJs, special performances, and lots of other surprises. Things start at 1pm, continuing till 6pm, and for early birds there is a one-hour open bar from 1pm till 2pm. The creative cocktail selections start at B250 each, so make a point of trying their wonderfully spicy, extra potent Bloody Mary—a drink which many consider a hangover cure in and of itself. And because drinking on an empty stomach is both ill-advised and no fun, there’s a colourful food and dessert buffet available for a mere B699. The next Westin Hangover Brunch is scheduled for Sunday, September 10th.

bangkok101.com

the morning after

SNAPSHOTS | insight

A collection of Thai "ending words" 42 | SEP T EM BER 2017

bangkok101.com

insight | SNAPSHOTS

On Ending Particles

hrases like “Sawasdee khrub”, Sawasdee kha”, “Khob khun khrub”, and “Khob khun kha”, are often overheard in Thailand. Most visitors and expatriates learning the Thai language are customarily told that khrub is an ending particle used by men and kha is the one used by women. But are there more meanings to these little words? Are they even translatable? What is their significance? Why do Thai people use them? I’m only a colloquial speaker, not a linguist, but I am fascinated by how people express themselves verbally. As parts of speech, these little words can be categorized as either ending particles or sentence suffixes, or even adverbs in Thai lexicon. ‘Khrub’ and ‘kha’ are the most often used, as they connote politeness and respect from the speakers to the listeners. Thai culture is hierarchical and our social structure is reflected in the language. We probably have the most pronouns for ‘I’ and ‘you’ amongst all languages. These refer to the relationship between the first

Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com

and second person, from the King and royal family members to monks of all ranks, to adults and children, to masters and serfs, and to family members and friends. Therefore, like these pronouns, the ending particles infer the formality and informality of the situations, the familiarity and unfamiliarity of the conversers, the expressions of emotions and purposes, and even the gender identification. Although these ending particles may be almost untranslatable, they have a lot of meanings and connotations. When used on their own, words like ‘khrub,’ ‘kha,’ ‘ha,’ ‘ja,’ ‘jaa,’ and ‘ya’ mean “Yes”, “Yes, Sir”, “Yes, Ma’am”, “Yeah”, or “Yep”. However, when they are used at the end of sentences, their meanings and connotations shift and change from various situations and the moods and tones of voice. For asking, requesting, and pleading, “na” would also be added as in na khrub, na kha, na ha, or na ja. These ‘na’ suffixes also sound as terms of endearment, while ‘ya’ and ‘na ya’ endings express disdain, annoyance, and sarcasm. They are most likely to be used among women, gay men, and other LGTBQ, akin to the phrases uttered when a villainess is not amused. But beyond these, there are myriads of interchangeable ending particles for all types of occasions. For instance, to express contempt, anger, and unpleasant surprises, wa, wei, woi, woey, hoey, or woey hoey are added to the sentence, such as “Ma thummai woey hoey?” (Why the heck do you come here?). However, these are more informal and considered impolite or rude to use. Nonetheless, Thais don’t use all these ending particles at the end of every sentence. They are only used to make the key points and the whole conversation smoother. For example, when speaking politely, especially to strangers such as in the contexts of an office or in service businesses, these ending particles are of utmost importance. It’s because they convey that the speaker does not sound

abrupt and has a haang siang or a “tail end of one’s voice”. These intonations of voice also help persuade and disarm someone’s defence. So rounding off one’s sentence with the harmonized “tail end” voice will make all’s well that ends well. Historically speaking, the words ‘khrub’ and ‘kha’ have only been widely used from 1943, during General Plaek Phibulsongkram’s administration, when the word sawasdee was coined and started its widespread usage. ‘Khrub’ and ‘khrub phom’ derived from the phrases khorub and khorub ghrapom (both used by men to express high respect), while ‘kha’ came from phrachaokhaa and payakha (used by men), and paekha and chaokha (used by women). These words were used among the courtiers when speaking to royal family members to express reverence. Interestingly, ‘kha’ wasn’t exclusively used by women, but also among male royalty because of the word phayakha. So it is not uncommon to hear adult men speaking to young girls using ‘kha’. Likewise, adult women may use ‘khrub’ when talking to young boys. Psychologically, this is mirroring by imitating the speech pattern to build rapport, gain understanding, and strengthen the relationship. Besides Thai, other Southeast Asian languages also have these ending particles. The sweet-sounding ‘jaow’ in Lanna Thai is used to round off a sentence in Northern Thailand. Singaporean’s and Malaysian’s ‘lah’ are widely heard with many humorous connotations. Chinese dialects such as Cantonese have several particles too, such as ‘ah’, ‘ge’, ‘je’, and ‘wo’. Some European languages, such as Bulgarian, use ‘be’, ‘de’, and ‘ma’ in informal situations too. Even Canadian or New Zealand English also has an “eh” at the end of sentences. As parts of our daily communications, these small sentence suffices in conversations actually pack a lot of punches. Then it is how we would decode these encoded messages that matters most. SEP T EM BER 2017 | 43

SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand

Sound Bytes & Swan Songs from Thailand-Part 1 Bangkok rock history has been a sounding board for songs, album covers, and gigs by everyone from the Clash and the Pretenders, to the Pogues and Rush By Jim Algie

THE LAST CLASH The photo on the cover of Combat Rock, the biggest-selling album released by The Clash, was shot on a railway line just outside Bangkok. The capital was the last stop on a world tour that screeched to a grinding halt in 1982.

Don’t Surf” (a line pilfered from the legendary 1979 film Apocalypse Now). When photographer Pennie Smith—who also shot the cover for London Calling that shows Simonon smashing his bass—convened the Combat Rock photo session on the railway tracks, not far from the Makkasan rail station and PhayaThai BTS, she said it was like watching the end of the line for punk’s most revolutionary act. After six years of racking up the miles and tour stops as relentless road warriors, The Clash met their Waterloo in Bangkok. BONG ROCK

After a show at Thammasat University, the formidable foursome from England opted for some R ‘n’ R in Bangkok that quickly turned calamitous. Drummer Topper Headon, soon to be kicked out for his heroin habit, relapsed, while bass-slayer and heartthrob Paul Simonon came down with a tropical malady; lead guitarist Mick Jones, who would only stick around for one more album, went AWOL; and the band’s leader Joe Strummer hit the go-go bars on an extended bender. Far from behaving like the leftleaning radicals who made the triple album and rallying cry Sandanista, the group ended up emulating the GIs they scorned in songs like “Charlie 4 4 | SEP T EM BER 2017

Years before Murray Head’s annoyingly catchy “One Night in Bangkok” pricked up the ears (and some nether regions) of listeners around the world, Rush, the progrock brontosauruses from Canada, were likely the first Western band to reference the capital in a rock song. “A Passage to Bangkok” appeared on their breakout album 2112, from 1976.

Still a staple of the group’s concerts, the track is an ode to hashish and marijuana that is half-baked in 1970s’ slang and sly references

to “golden Acapulco nights”. The verses make stopovers in Bogota, Jamaica, Morocco, Afghanistan, and Kathmandu, but the chorus reeks of “Thai stick”: “We’re on the train to Bangkok/Aboard the Thailand Express/ We’ll hit the stops along the way/We only stop for the best.” ELEGY IN BLUE American saxophonist Art Porter became a jazz legend-in-the-making at the age of 16 when the future US president Bill Clinton, a fellow saxophonist and then governor general of Arkansas, pushed for legislation to allow underage musicians to perform in the state’s clubs. That historic law became known as the ‘Art Porter Bill’.

The musician was at the apex of his tremendous abilities during a performance at the Golden Jubilee Jazz Festival that gripped Bangkok in 1996. As the main music critic for The Nation at the time, I can testify that Porter and his band blew most of the other acts away with an upbeat set melding funk, soul and be-bop. It was rare to see a jazzman with a rock star’s sense of showmanship and stagecraft. bangkok101.com

bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS Two days later, on a holiday outing, he went for a boat ride on the Sai Yok Reservoir in Kanchanaburi province. After the boat sank under conditions that remain murky, the musician and several other tourists drowned. Porter was only 35 and left two young children behind in the tragedy’s wake. THAI MUSES For fans of The Pogues’ lead wastrel, Shane McGowan (below), it should come as no surprise that Thailand used to be a favourite stop on his Far Eastern tours of debauchery.

On the group’s last album before he departed, Hell’s Ditch (1990),

Bizarre

Thailand

produced by Joe Strummer, the Irishman wrote two songs about the country: “Summer in Siam” is a languid ballad, while the surf rock “House of the Gods” sings the praises of Pattaya Beach, Singha beer, and local lasses. The lyrics put a Thai slant on The Kinks’ “Lola” as the intoxicated protagonist picks up a woman only to flee in horror when he finds out that ‘she’ is a ladyboy. AUDIO VISUALS Two of England’s most renowned music photographers from the late ‘80s and early ‘90s have used Thailand as their home base and darkroom for the last decade. Simon Larbalestier’s reputation is framed by the iconoclastic covers he shot for The Pixies’ albums Surfer Rosa, Doolittle, and Bossanova. More recently, he contributed images to a 72-page booklet included with the band’s boxed set Minotaur. Meanwhile, Martyn Goodacre, who once worked for the NME and Loaded, resides on Koh Samui. His portfolio includes images of the late INXS singer Michael Hutchence posing with his Ferrari, Shane McGowan, Beck, and one of the most reproduced images of Kurt Cobain. Shot in 1990 when Nirvana was still a subterranean phenomenon, and four years before the singer went out with a big bang, Goodacre recalled the shoot over the phone from his home in Samui: “Kurt was a tiny little guy who seemed quite miserable and hardly spoke two words. Actually, I remember taking this photo quite clearly because in all the others his eyes were a bit squinty, but then he opened them up completely.” ELEGY FOR A ROCK BAND In April 1982, the original line-up of The Pretenders played their swansong set in Bangkok. After returning to England, the group ousted their bassist Pete Farndon for rampant drug

Author Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the collection of short stories entitled The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (2014), and Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex, and Black Magic. Check out www.jimalgie.club for more. bangkok101.com

abuse. Two days later, guitarist James Honeyman Scott, 25, died of cocaineinduced heart failure. As the final riff in this requiem, Farndon drowned in his bathtub after a heroin overdose only a year later. At the time of his demise, he had been trying to put a new band together with fellow junkie Topper Headon, formerly of The Clash. The emotional overtones of the group’s next single, “Back on the Chain Gang”, echo the grief and resilience of singer and rhythm guitarist Chrissie Hynde. “I found a picture of you what hijacked my world that night/ To a place in the past we’ve been cast out of/Now we’re back in the fight.” In that wistful voice of hers, Chrissie claims in the last verse, “Those were the happiest days of my life.” In 2004, The Pretenders played their first gig in Thailand since the original band’s curtain call. In the middle of the set, Hynde, who was backed by drummer Martin Chambers (the only other founding member and survivor), paid homage to her fallen band mates. The following year when Neil Young officially inducted them into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, she saluted them once again. “And we’re paying tribute to James Honeyman Scott and Pete Farndon, without whom we wouldn’t be here. And on the other hand, without us, they might have been here, but that’s the way it works in rock ‘n’ roll.”

This story, and a few others like it, will appear in the new paperback version of On The Night Joey Ramone Died: Tales of Rock and Punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia, and Norway. Due out later this year, the paperback edition of the book includes a bonus section of musical non-fiction writing by acclaimed author Jim Algie.

SEP T EM BER 2017 | 45

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Rama VIII Bridge

Of the many bridges spanning the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok, one of the most unique is Saphan Rama VIII By Joe Cummings/CPA Media

pened in 2002, the 475-metre span known as the Rama VIII Bridge links Wisut Kasat Road in Ban Phan Thom district on the Bangkok side of the river with Arun Amarin Road in Bang Yikhan on the Thonburi side, less than two km upriver from 1973-vintage Phra Pinklao Bridge. By the mid-1990s, traffic congestion in inner Bangkok, from Koh Rattanakosin to Dusit, had become particularly severe, with Phra Pinklao Bridge widely regarded as the worst spot. With its eighty-four cables fanning out on either side of a single 46 | SEP T EM BER 2017

inverted Y-shape pylon, the Rama VIII span’s impressive harp-like silhouette completely eclipses the functional cement-and-steel monolith at Phra Pinklao, particularly when illuminated post-sunset. Canadian bridge-builders Buckland & Taylor provided the striking design, which was built under a joint-venture contract that included Canadian, Chinese, and Swiss, as well as Thai interests. Jorge Torrejon and Don Bergman, project manager and chief engineer for the span, had previously produced Vancouver’s Alex Fraser Bridge, a dual-pylon, cable-stayed bridge which

was the world’s longest following its completion in 1986. Construction began in 1999, and when opened in 2002, Rama VIII Bridge became the world’s fifth largest single-pylon, asymmetric cable-stayed bridge. Planted on the Thonburi side of the river, the distinction pylon stands 160 metres tall. Two dual-lane carriageways, with shared pedestrian and cycle paths on either side, pass through the two legs of the pylon over the bridge deck. The bridge design received multiple engineering awards in the year following completion, including the 2003 Eugene C. Figg Jr. Medal bangkok101.com

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS

for Signature Bridge and a 2003 Award of Excellence from Canadian Consulting Engineers. The late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who brought together traffic engineers and urban planners to decide on the construction of a new bridge, made the decision to dedicate the new span to his older brother Ananda Mahidol (20 September, 1925 – 9 June, 1946). Ananda served briefly as Rama VIII, the eighth monarch of Thailand from the House of Chakri, before his untimely death. The bridge was inaugurated on September 20th, 2002, King Ananda’s

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com

birth anniversary. Architectural iconography includes lotus motifs along the pedestrian railings, as well as gold-painted cable sheaths, and, at the base of the pylon, octagonal (symbolizing Rama VIII) pavilions resembling the feet of an elephant, a Thai symbol of royalty. The pylon tower itself contains a lift leading to a glass observation deck in the pinnacle, enclosed in a 15-metrehigh frame shaped like a lotus bud, a symbol of Buddhist equanimity. The bridge observation deck is said to be the world’s tallest of its kind. It is currently closed to the public, except by special authority of the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration. In the decade that followed the opening of the bridge, a 35-rai green park was appended to the base of the bridge on the Thonburi side, using grounds that once housed the state-

owned Bang Yikhan liquor factory. A large standing statue of Rama VIII, three times life size, was added to the park in 2012, along with a small museum devoted to photos, art, and artifacts related to Rama VIII history. Although little known to most Bangkok residents, Rama VIII park is enjoyed by many Thonburi residents who stroll, jog, relax, and organize special events here, as well as musical and dramatic performances at the octagonal pavilion and outdoor stage. Any royal barge procession is celebrated grandly at the park riverfront. The park is open daily 5am to 9pm. In the 15 years since its inauguration, the Rama VIII Bridge has evolved into a potent national symbol, even appearing on the inverse of 20 baht banknotes, behind a portrait of King Ananda. SEP T EM BER 2017 | 47

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Temple Fairs Where it all comes together

hais go the temple for worship. And also go for solace, shelter, or making merit. For healing, learning, or lottery numbers. Or to party. As mural after frolicking mural shows, the temple (wat) was a venue where throughout history Thais sought sanuk. Many still do. The wat hosts the hottest happening parties in local Thailand. A fund-raising religious event buzzing with raucous energy, the ngan wat (temple fair) promotes reverence through fun, combining food fest and flea market, live performance and freak show, casino and courting ground. No wonder ngan wat memories make many Thais go misty eyed; each fair is a life episode. From its origins in the seasonal festive cycle, ngan wat gained their current form through a half-century of development that brought mobile movie projectors, big bands and consumer goods to the Kingdom’s remotest corners. What began as informal village gatherings on each temple’s annual day grew into longer, bigger spectaculars at bumper festival times, like Songkran (Thai new year), the river-blessing rite Loy Krathong, and each end of the monks’ rainy season retreat. After doing Buddhist rites, people throng the sideshows after dark, every few steps finding some speciality to eat. The agile fold into Dodgem cars or wrought iron gondolas on the neon-spoked Ferris wheel, philosophically dubbed chingcha sawan (heaven swing). Friends lark, sweethearts carouse, families treat toddlers to candy. Kids try to snare fish before their paper ‘net’ disintegrates. Teen sharpshooters fire pop-guns at targets that, when hit, animate tableaux of motorized costumed dolls. Lads throw balls at levers to dunk a scantily clad girl into water. As diverse as each district, fairs form a key circuit for touring shows of comedy, dance and music. Troupes from Khon Kaen and Udon shimmy in Day-Glo across Isaan,

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 4 8 | SEP T EM BER 2017

trilling mor lam songs to a churning beat. Shamanistic manohra dancers flutter birdlike on festive Southern nights, while shadow puppeteers pass subtle social comment. Likewise in the Central Plains, likay, lamtad, and pleng choi—folk opera, bawdy musical banter, and singalongs—bridge stage and audience with wry wordplays, saucy exclamations and exaggerated gestures. In the North, sword dances, long drum contests and khantoke floor-level dining are as much a part of fairs as groundlevel markets under red lacquer umbrellas. Overloading each sense, Thai carnivals render you punch-drunk from everything happening at once. Rival stages revel in one-upmanship. Simultaneous film projections, loudspeakered sermons, clanging bells, live concerts—all blend like the competitive notes of classical phiphat musicians into one melodious cacophony. It’s just as noisy for the eyes. Lights flash, screens glare, costumes dazzle with Thailand’s own range of primary colours: turquoise, lime and pink. Despite the often-shambolic appearance, each detail contains a universe of nuance, a depth of heritage, a sense of social comfort. You can’t do it all, and finding delight in the moment underscores the wat’s motive: promoting Buddhism. Piety is a pill the Thai prefer sugared. To draw custom, many wats offer garish rides. “These days a fair is likely to include acrobats and other circuslike acts, even a ‘wall of death’ motorcycle stunt,” writes Subhatra Bhumiprabhas. “People’s reasons for coming have also changed. A temple fair used to be for all the family... but still attracts bargain hunters, the curious and the nostalgic. The main attraction for the young has been the chance to catch their favourite luuk thung band and to enter amateur song contests.” And, given the growth in stalls, to shop.

Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

Unforgettable Andaman Escapes at Anantara Si Kao Resort

Located along a private stretch of Pakmeng-Changlang Beach, in the district of Si Kao in Trang province, the Anantara Si Kao Resort is a pure slice of paradise—an untouched corner of the Andaman coastline bordering the pine forests Hat Chao Mai National Park. Designed to be in perfect harmony with its beautiful surroundings, the Anantara Si Kao Resort offers guests an array of luxury accommodation options, ranging from the 45 sq.m Deluxe and Family Rooms, all the way up to the 110 sq.m Anantara Pool Suite, and the extravagant 230 sq.m Three Bedroom Family Pool Villa. But whichever size, all accommodations are sea-facing and feature a private balcony or terrace, complete with lovely views. Culinary experiences here include Acqua, the resort’s signature restaurant, which serves seafood and pasta specialties with authentic Italian ﬂair. Try the Tom Yum Kung Risotto, a signature dish. Guests at Acqua can dine on the elevated deck with a sensational sea view, in the indoor dining room. Meanwhile, for local delicacies there’s Leelawadee, where Southern Thai specialties are available all day long at this open air restaurant. Other dining options include The Beach House (a great place to watch the sunset) and the Koh Kradan Beach Club (operating

Anantara Si Kao Resort

during October-May). You can also sip and savour at the Pool Bars, located beside the beautiful beachfront inﬁnity adults only pool and family pool. For relaxation the renowned Anantara Spa has six air-conditioned treatment rooms, including a personal spa suite with a private steam room, Jacuzzi, and sala. Or, take a day trip by speedboat to Anantara’s Private Beach Club at nearby Koh Kradan, crystal clear water which is perfect for snorkeling. Guests are also invited to take a half-day tour to participate in the Anatara’s Sea Grass Planting CSR Project, which helps Thialand’s last group of dugongs that is on the edge of extinction. The resort is also the perfect spot for unforgettable tropical weddings— including underwater scuba-diving weddings, an Anantara specialty. It’s the type of resort that has something for everyone—from honeymooners to families with children, to older travelers. There’s also a kid’s club for families with young children, and plenty of outdoor recreation and activities for the grown ups.

198-199 Moo 5, Had Pak Meng-Changlang Rd., Maifad, Si Kao, Trang 92150 Thailand T: +66 (0) 7520 5888 E: sikao@anantara.com

www.anantara.com

SNAPSHOTS | heritage

Disappearing Icon The Dusit Thani Hotel: a reflection of 1960s Thai pride By Luc Citrinot

Impressive architecture

or a long time, the Dusit Thani Bangkok, at the corner of Silom and Rama IV roads, was the most striking skyscraper in Bangkok’s landscape. For decades it was the highest building and one of the best hotels. But the clock is ticking and the end is near for this prestigious property. When it officially opened in 1969, the Dusit Thani was the talk in town. “At that time, structures in Bangkok were mostly two or three storey buildings,” recalls Chanin Donavanik, Vice Chairman and Chairman of the Executive Committee of Dusit International. “The highest structure rarely exceeded six or eight floors. But my mother, Thanpuying Chanut Piyaoui, wanted to represent the best of Thailand and also herald a new era for our country. She fought with architects to be sure that our property would turn into an icon. In fact, she was inspired for the height of our property by Wat Arun on the Chao Praya River—another high-rise structure which is another icon, of

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Benjarong Restaurant

course of another time and with another purpose.” The hotel had to be a true reflection of Thailand's essence; a contemporary icon with a twist of local wisdom and design. The Japanese firm Kanko Kikaku Sekkeisha, a famed team of architects in the world of tourism, conceived the design of the property. In Southeast Asia, the company built not only the Dusit Thani Bangkok, but also the Federal Hotel in Kuala Lumpur (1968), the Mandarin Oriental and Shangri-La in Singapore (1971), the Century Park Hotel in Manila (1977), the Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur (1985), the Shangri-La Bangkok (1986), the Shangri-La in Surabaya (1995), the Traders Hotel in Yangon (1996), and the Hilton/Meridien twin hotels in Kuala Lumpur (2006). Construction of the Bangkok property began in 1967. It was soft-opened in 1969, before its official opening in 1970. With a height of 82 metres (100 metres including the spire), and 21 floors above ground, the

hotel was—for over 15 years (up to the mid 1980s)—the tallest structure in the Thai capital. It also became the first Thai five-star hotel in the Kingdom. “The triangle shape of the hotel, the spire evoking a chedi, the use of wood, the gold coated and green mosaics, and the ogive-style windows were all reflecting our Thai culture,” explains Chanin. Walking in the garden today, with its waterfall and triangleshaped canopies, illustrates how the tropical modern style of that time could match with the desire to exhibit an architectural ‘Thainess’. The hotel was not only a new landmark for the capital it was also a landmark for the tourism industry. The hotel pioneered five-star hospitality, inspired by authentic Thai values, and ushered in a new era of tourism for the city—revolutionizing dining, entertainment, and even the way people organized wedding receptions in the process. The hotel was not only visited during official events by the members of the Royal Family, but also bangkok101.com

heritage | SNAPSHOTS

Front lobby

the place to be seen for celebrities, whether political or from the world of the arts. The Dusit Thani Bangkok welcomed Ronald Reagan, Margaret Thatcher, Jackie Chan, Jay Chou, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Tom Jones, among a long series of personalities. “My most vivid memory is about Deng Xiao Ping, the Chinese leader,” Chanin remembers. “He had such a clear vision about the future of China when he spoke about it. I was totally impressed.” How many guests have stayed at the Dusit Thani until now? “Difficult

Historic

Bangkok

Swimming pool

to say but one of our employees has made a hobby out of the counting of our guests. And he told me that we saw, over the past 48 years, some 30 million people,” Chanin goes on to say. A few of the Dusit Thani staff who started working with the hotel from its opening are still active, and many have a career spanning 25 to 30 years. “Many told me that they will quit with the closure of the hotel next year”, added the Vice Chairman. Sadly, the days of the hotel are already numbered. In April of 2018 the hotel will close its doors and be demolished. “I am sad about this but we must think about the future of our hotel,” Chanin admits. “We used to incarnate the best of Thailand for 25 to 30 years, but the opening of new luxury hotels has made our business difficult. We have troubles to attract the younger generation which finds our hotel old-fashioned. Despite renovations, we cannot compete anymore with upcoming properties. We thought a lot about ways to reconstruct the hotel, and keep the structure, but this is

almost an impossible task. And even if we managed, our 50-year old property could still not compete with other brand new hotels, as the constraints attached to the architecture would remain. Best is to demolish and construct something new.” However, Dusit Thani promises to bring again the best of Bangkok and to once again become an icon. “We will again be a true reflection of Thai values and culture,” says the Vice Chairman. “We will try to keep as much as we can the pieces of art created fifty years ago, as well as some architecture details. We will, for example, transfer all the sculpted pieces of wood and bas reliefs of the current structure to the future Sukhothai restaurant. And we will try to replant, as much as possible, the trees from our garden.” In 2022, the new Dusit Thani will open its doors. And it should open a brand new era for the Dusit Thani hospitality group and tourism in Bangkok in general. The 60s structure will have disappeared, but not its original spirit.

OTHER 60s STYLE HOTELS IN BANGKOK Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com

Few 1960s style hotels in Bangkok can still be seen today, and only the Dusit Thani is considered a five-star property. All the other hotels from that time are mostly two to three and a half star properties. NARAI HOTEL: Until the opening of the Dusit Thani, this was the highest building on Silom Road. It was opened in 1968 and retains its typical sixties architecture. INDRA REGENT HOTEL: Opened in 1971, this gigantic structure could do with a much needed renovation, but back then it represented a new style of property—as it integrated, under one roof, a hotel, shopping mall, theatre, and department store. FLORIDA HOTEL: A simple property dating from the late sixties, the hotel is a two-star property which used to welcome GIs during the Vietnam War.

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Photo by Xavier Sandel / Flickr.com

TRAVEL |

The majestic beauty of Erawan Falls (tier 3) 52 | SEP T EM BER 2017

bangkok101.com

| TRAVEL

KANCHANABURI 101 L

ocated less than a three-hour drive from Bangkok, the town (and province) known as KANCAHANABURI has become a popular go-to destination for weekend wanderers and visitors interested in exploring Thailand’s 20th century history. For many the main draws are the landmarks synonymous with the infamous DEATH RAILWAY—namely the Bridge Over the River Kwai, Hellfire Pass, and the War Cemetery and Museum (see story on pg. 54). As the tourist numbers continue to rise, so too do the number of hotels, restaurants, bars, and cafés opening up in and around the main town. Highend luxury resorts such as the DHEVA MANTRA RESORT, the X2 RIVER KWAI RESORT, the U INCHANTREE KANCHANABURI, and the RIVER KWAI RESOTEL all offer some pretty swanky upscale accommodations. Meanwhile the river, around which so much visitor attention is focused, is also home to luxury “floating hotels”, including the FLOATHOUSE RIVER KWAI RESORT, and the RV RIVER KWAI CRUISE which carries a maximum of 20 passengers—in 10 single-deck, teakwood cabins—upstream and downstream on 4 day/3 night river journey. Of course, staying in Kanchanaburi isn’t just for elite vacationers, and a huge number of affordable and wonderfully charming family-owned guesthouses can also be had, many with the same riverside views found at the more expensive properties. As for what to see and do here, the most popular attractions are mainly outdoor activities which often involve a bit of trekking. The province is home to two of Thailand’s most beautiful waterfalls, the most famous of which is the seven-tiered ERAWAN WATERFALL, located in the ERAWAN NATIONAL PARK—made even more attractive by the colourful plunge pools at each tier. Smaller, but equally impressive is the SAI YOK NOI WATERFALL, in SAI YOK NATIONAL PARK, which is best viewed between July and Sangkhlaburi October (the rainy season) when water levels are high. A very different water-based attraction can be found when visiting the HINDAD HOT SPRING, a natural mineral water hot spring that was accidentally Kanchanaburi discovered by a Japanese soldier during World War II. Those with a passion for pachyderms can visit either ELEPHANT WORLD, or ELEPHANT HAVEN, two BANGKOK elephant sanctuaries where visitors can interact with Thailand’s famous gentle giants—with activities that include feeding, bathing, and more feeding (elephants eat a lot!). However, if you really want to get into some jungle trekking, GOOD TIMES TRAVEL SERVICE can arrange twoday excursions into the forests that include bamboo rafting and a visit to a nearby Karen hilltribe village. Visit www.good-times-travel.com to find out more. Finally, it’s worth noting that Kanchanaburi boasts some terrific restaurants, many of which are located right on the river—a beautiful place to dine when night falls. And for night owls, the relatively lively bar scene along Maenam Kwai Road offers plenty of drinks and distractions.

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TRAVEL | focus on kanchanaburi

Railway of Remorse

Photos of Kanchanaburi by Jim Algie

A tour of duty for martial history buffs

By Jim Algie

he building of the “Death Railway” was a monumental folly on an epically tragic scale. To build this railway—which would help Japanese forces occupying Thailand during World War II to take over Burma (still a British colony then)—the POWs enlisted as the labour force were required to tunnel through mountains and hardwood forests. Historians have estimated that as many 100,000 Asian coolies died while constructing this 415 km railway while more than 12,000

Colin Firth in The Railway Man 54 | SEP T EM BER 2017

Allied troops, mostly Brits, Australians, and Dutch, also perished from overwork, malnutrition, tropical diseases, and beatings. One soldier who survived this punishing ordeal, albeit with severe trauma, was Eric Lomax. The former British railway engineer, taken prisoner after the Japanese Imperial Army overran Singapore, was transported by railway car, along with many other POWs, to work on the railway. His bestselling memoir, The Railway Man, published in 1995, was turned into a film—starring Colin Firth as Lomax and Nicole Kidman as his new wife—in 2013. Much of it was shot in and around Kanchanaburi. DTC Travel of Bangkok has designed a special tour to show you around four different locations in the movie and six from the book. The tour begins, not so far outside the Thai capital, with a stop at Ban Pong, the starting point of the railway. For many visitors this countryside station with its wooden buildings, flower pots, and rustic white signs with the next and previous stations written in black paint, is a typical sight in the panorama of pastoral life. For the POWs forced to work here or being sent on to Kanchanaburi, this was the antechamber to hell. Under such harsh conditions, altruism flourishes. On the DTC tour we stopped at some heritage-heavy houses bangkok101.com

focus on kanchanaburi | TRAVEL in the town. The owner of one house was a war hero who never served any time in the trenches. At first, Boonpong Sirivejaband did business with the Japanese, winning a bid to supply them with the sleeper logs for the building of the railway, but his father had been a doctor and civil servant. This shophouse, with what used to be an adjoining pharmacy, gave Boonpong access to the medicines he would smuggle into the camps, using his attractive young daughter as a decoy, to hand out to the POWs. Fluent in English, Boonpong smuggled messages out that were written in code which he then passed on their respective governments. After the war, the courageous businessman received royal decorations from both the British and Dutch governments for the help he had rendered to their nationals. Built in 1917, this three-story house makes for a fascinating detour and some captivating photos, as it’s embellished with antiques, Chinese ancestor shrines, fading artworks, and timeworn posters. At the Thai Burma Railway Center, rife with World War II relics and overlooking an Allied cemetery, you can stave off the sadness of seeing all these graves arranged with military-like precision, by learning about other heroes, like the Australian doctor Lieutenant-Colonel

E. E. Dunlop, better known as “Weary Dunlop,” who saved many lives by tending to the sick and injured with little in the way of medicine or resources. Dunlop’s legacy continued decades after the war when in the 1980s he teamed up with a bunch of fellow POWs to help reclaim “Hellfire Pass” from the jungle near Myanmar, and found a museum and an Australian memorial. Nicknamed for the hellish conditions that saw forced labourers chiseling their way through the rock with pickaxes, illuminated by the glare of bonfires blazing all night long, this Herculean undertaking resulted in the deaths of more POWS and coolies than any other section of the railway. Though the museum and some of the original railroad ties ram home the horrors of this undertaking with a railway spike, it is about 80 km west of the main city and not included on the DTC tour. By the original cutting there is also a 4 km walking trail that will give you a deep appreciation of the POWs’ struggle—toiling up to 18 hours a day with only a little rice and water for sustenance. The Hellfire Pass scenes in The Railway Man, shot on location in Thailand, are some of the most memorable in the movie.

Detail, home of Boonpong Sirivejaband

Kayakers on the Khwae River bangkok101.com

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TRAVEL | focus on kanchanaburi

Jeremy Irvine as a young Eric Lomax in The Railway Man

THE NOTORIOUS BRIDGE Kanchanaburi is justly renowned for its riverside accommodations and restaurants. With the famous bridge in gawking distance, we sat down for a lunch of Thai specialties, before walking over to check out the bridge made famous in the 1957 (mostly fictitious) war movie The Bridge Over the River Kwai. Still standing tall as the province’s most famous tourist attraction, the bridge has some of the irksome touts and all the souvenir stands to prove it. That said, visitors can still take a stroll across this relatively small structure, enjoy the riverine vistas and the sight of kayakers, as well as do some vintage train-spotting with some of the old locomotives. From there, we hopped aboard a long-tail boat to pay our respects to the fallen soldiers at the Chungkai Allied Cemetery, which draws few tourists. As someone who

Grave marker 56 | SEP T EM BER 2017

grew up in a military family which suffered the loss of many relatives in the two great wars of the 20th century, I was shocked to see how many of the deceased were only 19 and 20 years old—about the same age as my Uncle Jim, whom I was named after, a tail-gunner on a Wellington bomber shot down during a bombing raid on Germany. He was 19 and had just been married to an English woman for three weeks. For anyone who’s lost relatives in war, this trip is bound to be more of an emotional rather than sentimental journey, a day of solemn remembrance rather than the usually joyous amnesia of travel. But it does put things into perspective. In comparison to these young men, cut down in their prime, one’s own troubles seem trifling. Unlike Uncle Jim, whose plane and remains were never found, at least these battlers of fascism have a final resting place. Though quite a few graves house remains that were never identified. Emblazoned on these plaques are the words: Known Unto God. NOTE: DTC Travel’s Death Railway tour can be booked for groups (minimum four people). The price is B2,400 per person, including lunch and snacks. On the outing you can watch the film The Railway Man on the tour bus. www.dtctravel.com/following-the-railwayman.html bangkok101.com

focus on kanchanaburi | TRAVEL

ARMY OF GHOSTS (as played by Hiroyuki Sanada) is more reticent, more Japanese and tactful. Only these two men can understand what really happened in Kanchanaburi. Only they can use those experiences as pickaxes to grind each other into the dust or to question the nature of duty, of repentance, of the boundary lines between warfare and war crimes. The Showdown

Colin Firth and Nicole Kidman

After meeting a Canadian nurse, who is 17 years younger than him, on a train back in England after returning home, was right around the time when Eric Lomax began to go off the rails again. He kept hallucinating about a torture chamber into which his Japanese captors were dragging him. Patti, who became his bride, knew something was wrong but her husband’s manly code of silence, and Scottish reticence, forbade him from telling her anything. Back then the term Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder did not exist. Other terms once in vogue, such as “shellshock” and “combat fatigue,” do not suggest the level of psychological scarring that takes place under conditions of extreme torture. It was only when Patti made friends with another former POW named Finlay, who headed up a group of local veterans, did she begin to find out what happened during the building of the railway. In the film adaptation of The Railway Man, Patti, as played by Nicole Kidman, may be the film’s heart but Stellan Skarsgard as the older Finlay is its psyche—bruised and haunted. To Lomax he utters the film’s most poignant lines about these former POWs who are still at war with themselves and their invisible tormenters. “We can’t live. We can’t love. We can’t sleep… we’re an army of ghosts.” In Eric Lomax’s memoir, the most combustible relationship that develops is between him and Takashi Nagase, the former translator for the Japanese Imperial Army who tormented Lomax—accused of making and hiding a forbidden radio—threatening him with death and ever more gruesome tortures. After getting back in touch decades after the war, they exchanged a series of letters to air their grievances and share their memories. As touching as some of these letters are, they could not possibly be filmed as a series of voiceovers without losing their dramatic intensity. On the battlefield of cinema, inevitably there will have to be a face-to-face showdown between the two. These scenes are electrifying. Lomax (as played by Colin Firth) sizzles with anger whereas Takashi

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Either on screen or in a memoir, what develops is one of the most unorthodox “relationships” between two enemy soldiers which has ever been chronicled. For those unfamiliar with the book, or who have not seen the film yet, I won’t play the spoilsport, but a key line from a real letter written by the POW to his interrogator—“Sometimes the hating has to stop.”— sets the stage for one of the most moving films ever shot in Thailand. As a backstory or cinematic backdrop for your trip to Kanchanaburi, The Railway Man is essential reading or viewing.

The real life Eric Lomax and Takashi Nagase

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TRAVEL | focus on kanchanaburi

Two-Bridge Journey

Road trip to the Thai-Myanmar border in Kanchanaburi province Words by Joe Cummings/CPA Media Photos by Nate Clark

Mon bridge, Sangkhlaburi

ailing down the two-lane blacktop heading west, I peer sideways through the windows of the rental car I’m driving. Only two hours earlier, photographer Nate Clark and I had been inching along capital streets, waiting for the gridlock to loosen up. Now, rolling green hills unfold endlessly before us, like a scene from a Terrence Malick film. With virtually no other vehicles to be seen along Highway 323, the contrast with Bangkok couldn’t be more striking. Cirrus clouds spar with the sun to provide nonstop sky visuals, appearing even more impressive when I peel back the moon roof. We’re headed all the way to Sangkhlaburi, on a remote stretch of the Myanmar border, via Kanchanaburi. It’s been a few years since my last visit, and I look forward to finding out what’s changed, and what hasn’t. Our first official stop on the road is the super iconic River Kwai Bridge in Kanchanaburi’s provincial capital. The imposing iron-and-wood span was engineered by Japanese troops who occupied Southeast Asia during World War II, and built using POW and conscript labour as part of a metre-gauge railway line from Ban Pong, Thailand to Thanbyuzayat, Burma. Historians later called it the ‘Death 58 | SEP T EM BER 2017

Railway’ because so many workers—around 60,000 POWs and as many as 150,000 local conscripts—died during the rail line’s construction under horrific working conditions. Although many bridges were built along the original line, the one over the Khwae River—a name somehow mangled in the famous novel (and later film) Bridge over the River Kwai—is by far the longest, at 346 metres. To the Japanese, it was simply ‘Bridge 277’, part of a long supply chain intended to support a Japanese attack of India which never occurred, as Allied bombers destroyed two sections of the bridge in 1945. Today the Eastern end of the bridge—the end closest to town—is an unequivocal tourist trap, thronged with hundreds of day visitors brandishing selfie sticks and camera-phones. Noting that most tourists venture no further than halfway across the span before turning back, we drive downriver till we find a road bridge, then cross the river and approach the historic monument from the west. This is more like it. With a bit of the bridge to ourselves, we can better sense the gravity of history, or so we imagine. Plus, our selfies are way better without strangers in the background. bangkok101.com

focus on kanchanaburi | TRAVEL

Open roads ahead

Bridge on the River Kwai

Ganesha Statue, Wat Khao Khe

Before hitting the road again, we stop off for lunch at X2 River Kwai, an ultra-contemporary boutique resort set on the banks of the river a few kilometres south of the famed bridge. A table beneath a huge old tamarind tree, with the river flowing nearby, makes a perfect feedand-chill spot after the two-and-a-half-hour drive from Bangkok. Pad Thai with fresh river prawns and chicken stir-fried with holy basil go down well, and soon we’re sitting back in the car heading northwest. Once we’re clear of town and pointed towards Myanmar, I’m reminded that Western Kanchanaburi province is a driver’s paradise. From this point forward, traffic is sparse, while things to see and do are plentiful. Highway 323, which ends in Sangkhlaburi, is unequivocally one of the most beautiful highways anywhere in Thailand. Craggy hills and raw limestone cliffs pop up on either side of the road, part of the Eastern escarpment of the Tanintharyi Mountain Range which forms an imposing geographic wall between Myanmar and Thailand. Soon we’re skirting the edges of Sai Yok National Park, where the legendary ‘Russian roulette’ scenes from The Deer Hunter were filmed. About a half hour before arriving in Thong Pha Phum, a giant blue elephant-headed statue appears on a hillside to the right of the highway. I don’t remember it from previous trips, and so we decide to pull off the road and check it out. The lofty figure is Ganesha, son of Shiva the Hindu destroyer god, and it turns out he’s one of several mythological characters fervently worshipped at Wat

Khao Khe. The name translates as ‘Crocodile Mountain Monastery’, as it was founded near a cave which Chao Pho Khao Khe, a half-human, half-crocodile hermit, reportedly used as a meditation spot way back when such magical creatures were presumably common. Towards the back of the monastery compound, we come upon a shrine occupied by a figure resembling a meditating Buddha image in all respects except that it bears the head of a crocodile. Locals believe that prayers and offerings made at the shrine will bring them wealth and prosperity. Resident monks and local devotees later added the huge statue of Ganesha, thought to be a remover of life obstacles, for those seeking to pass exams or get promoted at work. As we wander by, a small group of Indian visitors is praying at the shrine. To make a perfect trifecta, Wat Khao Khe also harbours a sizeable statue of a standing Kuan Yin, the Chinese goddess of compassion. Suitably blessed by all three deities, we hit the road again and keep going until the sun is setting and Thong Pha Phum appears on the horizon, a clump of two- and three-story buildings sitting in a tight river valley. We check into Thongphaphum Place, the newest and best of what the small town has to offer room-wise. It’s clean and simple, and far enough off the town’s main street for a peaceful night’s sleep. We find a local outdoor eatery near the market and dine well on pla sawng jai (“two-hearted fish”—a whole freshwater fish flanked by a sweet-andsour sauce on one side, and a chili sauce on the other), and phat phak koot (stir-fried fresh fern shoots).

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TRAVEL | focus on kanchanaburi rooflines in classic Mon style, the structure is painted bright blue and raised high on stilts. Inside, the faded walls are covered with old photos and manual clocks, giving the impression we’ve traveled a half century back in time. During a chat with an old betelchewing monk, who turns out to be the abbot, I learn how Mon immigrants from Dawei, a port town on the Mergui Peninsula on the other side of the Tanintharyi Mountain Range, had founded Wat Huay Pak Khok around 80 years earlier.

Mon Buddhist wat

Nate rises early the next morning to snap photos of local monks on their daily alms round. He follows them back to Wat Tha Khanun, their hillside temple at the edge of town, while I explore the colourful morning market. An hour’s tour of town, plus a quick curry-and-rice breakfast, and we’re ready to go. I drive out of the valley back to what I think is Highway 323. Somehow we end up driving for a half hour along Highway 3272, a secondary road that leads from Thong Pha Phum to Pilok, a Thai-Burmese border town that once thrived on tin and tungsten mining. I don’t realize we’re headed the wrong way until we stop at a vintage Mon Buddhist monastery by the side of the road, drawn by a Burmese-style stupa and an old, distinctive-looking teak building. Built with stacked

Sangkhalia Lake

As we leave the monastery and are about to get back in the car, a grizzled man sitting by the side of the road asks where we’re headed. That’s when we find out we’re on the wrong road.

Mon bridge at sunset 60 | SEP T EM BER 2017

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focus on kanchanaburi | TRAVEL We backtrack a half hour or so till we’re back on Highway 323, as the mountain scenery opens up to vistas of Vajiralongkorn Reservoir, a 3,720 sq.km lake formed by a dam that filled the Sangkhalia River valley when it was completed in 1984. This rippling, sea-like expanse of water is what most road-trippers come to experience. The reservoir pops in and out of our view all the way to Sangkhlaburi, where we make a beeline for the second famous bridge in our journey. Mon Bridge, a tall, rickety 850-metre span made from hand-hewn timbers, traverses the Sangkhalia River at the northernmost tip of the lake, joining Sangkhlaburi with the small, densely populated Mon village of Wangka.

Mon dishes, Wangka

After nailing a parking spot in Wangka, we walk down a village lane to find an unobstructed view of the bridge, which rises above the river in an impossibly intricate arrangement of rough logs and slats. It’s the longest such bridge in Thailand (and the second longest wooden bridge in the world after Myanmar’s 1.2 km long U Bein Bridge), and locals built the span in 1986 and 1987 under the sponsorship of Luang Phor Uttama, Mon abbot of Wat Wang Wiwekaram in Wangka.

Next on the agenda is a visit to Three Pagodas Pass, the ancient doorway through the Tanintharyi Mountains between Siam and Burma. At this remote spot stand three small whitewashed stupas, built as a peace gesture between the two warring kingdoms following the Burmese invasion of Thailand in the 18th century. I’m happy to see that the old stupas are still wrapped in holy cloth and worshipped daily. A simple border crossing serves trade between Thais from Sangkhlaburi, and Burmese from Payathonzu, the small Kayin-Mon town on the other side of the border. Unfortunately, only citizens of Thailand and Burma are permitted to cross back and forth for the day. Adjacent to the border gate, a large market is stocked with carved wood, gems, textiles, and other Burmese handicrafts. On our last day in Sangkhlaburi, we hop a local longboat for a tour of the lake, stopping off to view spooky, semisubmerged temple ruins left behind after Vajiralongkorn Dam was built and the valley was flooded. We’re lucky that rain during the monsoon season so far this year has been scant enough to leave the temples partially exposed; in another month or so they won’t be visible at all. To spend the night, we choose Samprasob Resort, which commands the closest views of the Mon Bridge and Wangka across the river. For the best view of all, slip into the resort’s infinity-edge pool. The following day we drive back to Bangkok in one shot, reliving Highway 323’s challenging curves and majestic vistas.

WHERE TO STAY X2 RIVER KWAI: Ultra-contemporary design and a prime riverside location—all just a 15-minute drive from Kanchanaburi town. All rooms have panoramic river views, and resort facilities include a riverbank restaurant with indoor and outdoor dining, a library, and an infinity riverfront pool, plus bicycles and iPads for loan to guests. 138, Moo 4, Nong Ya, Kanchanaburi Tel: 03 455 2124 www.X2resorts.com

THONGPHAPHUM PLACE: A new hotel—with ample parking—located in the centre of Thong Pha Phum town, offering clean, simple, air-con rooms. Look for the “Free WiFi” sign. 108/5 Tha Kanoon Rd, Thong Pha Phum Tel: 03 459 9544

Three Pagodas Pass

After stocking up on photos, we retreat to a rustic local eatery for steaming plates of khanawm tait ga, which is the Mon name for khanom jeen, thin rice noodles topped with savoury fish and chicken curries. Unbeknownst to many Thais, khanom jeen in fact originated among the Mon. bangkok101.com

SAMPRASOB RESORT: Built on a steep hillside overlooking the Mon Bridge and Sangkhalia River, this long-running resort in Sangkhlaburi offers a variety of rooms and cabins, most with river and reservoir views. The Rim Nam Restaurant serves good Thai and international cuisine. 122, Moo 3, Nong Loo, Sangkhlaburi Tel: 03 459 5050 samprasobresort@gmail.com

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TRAVEL | where to stay kanchanaburi

Good Times Resort

It’d be hard to have a bad time at this charming riverside retreat

he town of Kanchanaburi has many resorts, hotels, and guesthouses to choose from, but for overall value it’s hard to beat the Good Time Resort, a property that offers upscale amenities but retains a friendly, family-run guesthouse feel. The owner, Khun Chalee, has been a fixture on the Kanchanaburi tourism scene for a long time, running her successful Good Times Travel Service. Four years ago she and her husband opened their own resort— carrying over the company name— beginning with just 17 rooms. Since that time the property has expanded, and with the recent addition of six new rooms the resort now offers guests a total of 42 accommodations. There are 10 room styles to choose from, varying in size from the 20 sq.m Small Double room, to the spacious 45 sq.m Deluxe Triple Lagoon View room, and the mammoth 70 sq.m two-room Junior Suite. I found myself booked into a very comfortable 2nd-storey Superior Garden View room—one of the newer units—which offers such luxuries as flatscreen TV, mini-fridge, bathrobes,

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air-conditioning, room safe, free Wi-Fi, and coffee and tea making facilities. The interior is accented with colourful pop-art style designs on the pillows, bed runner, and headboard area, while the polished cement floor is livened up with decorative tiles. The room also includes a nice-sized balcony (with chairs) and a funky wooden bench seat and coffee table. The resort’s location is ideal, being right on the river, a mere 3 km from ‘The Bridge Over the River Kwai’, and just a stone’s throw from the activity on Maenamkwai Road, the town’s main tourist drag. And while it’s fabulous that this property extends right to the picturesque riverbank, you can’t really swim in the river—which is why the resort’s small but serviceable outdoor swimming pool, surrounded by garden greenery, is such a popular hangout for guests. It’s also open till 9pm, and the water looks beautiful during the evening when it is lit from below. The resort’s other popular hangout—for both guests and outside visitors—is their open-air riverside restaurant which overlooks both the river and the resort’s own ornamental

lagoon. The views here are lovely, especially at sunset, and the food is equally exceptional. On the first day of my visit I feasted on a delicious meal consisting of Yum Ta Kai Kung (spicy lemongrass salad with shrimp and cashews), Chicken Sa-Tae (plump juicy seasoned chicken on skewers with a spicy peanut dipping sauce), and Kra Pong Song Jai (deep fried sea bass with mango salad and garlic). On my second day, just before departing, I tucked into a spicy bowl of Kaeng Paa Maa (Burmese red curry with potato and chicken or pork), which went beautifully with my farewell ice cold beer. NOTE: The Good Times riverside restaurant is also the spot where overnight guests enjoy a buffet style breakfast, and where those interested can sign up for the resort’s highly recommended Thai cooking class. by Bruce Scott

Good Times Resort 265/5 Maenam Kwai Rd. Tel: 090 143 4925 www.good-times-resort.com

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TRAVEL | upcountry now

SPARTAN SPRINT September 9

The exceedingly challenging Spartan Sprint—the world’s foremost obstacle course race, currently held in 25 countries around the world—comes to Thailand this month at the Siam Country Club in Pattaya. All Spartan courses are designed to test participants physically, so for those that dare there will be plenty of fire, mud, water, barbed wire, and other onerous obstacles to get past on this 5+ km run. If you think you can’t do it… you’re wrong. Get yourself to the starting line and show yourself what you are capable of. For more infomation, visit the website at: www.spartanrace.co.th.

AKHA GIANT SWING FESTIVAL September 9-10

Every year during the rainy season, the Akha hilltribe in Chiang Rai province holds what is known locally as YaeKhu-A-Paew (or the Giant Swing Festival in English). This two-day festival is held to celebrate the abundant crops waiting to be harvested, but also to honour women, and the goddess of fertility. The highlight is the giant swing made of bamboo and wood that people ride back and forth on at terrifying heights, often at the edge of cliffs. Be aware that many Akha settlements are inaccessible during the rainy season.

RIVER KWAI HALF MARATHON September 10

The 36th edition of the River Kwai International Half Marathon— the oldest road race in Thailand—starts and ends this year at the River Kwai Village Hotel, in Sai Yok, Kanchanaburi. Races include a 10.5 km minimarathon (B600), a 21 km half-marathon (B800), and a longer 36 km run (B800). Participants will experience the exceptional views of river and mountains on the way to the finish line. And on Saturday September 9th the resort will host a carbo-dinner for racers to load up on carbs. Entries are limited to 4,000 runners (and usually is sold out by race time).

MUEANG NAKHON LUNAR FESTIVAL September 14-23

This celebration, which has been held continuously for more than 100 years, is an important one for people in Nakhon Si Thammarat province. The highlight of this festival, held in the 10th lunar month, is the Ching Pret Ceremony in which the locals offer their good deeds to the spirit of their ancestors, with the belief that their ancestors will receive the good deeds and thus be better off in the afterlife. The event takes place at the Somdet Phra Srinagarindra Park (Thung Tha Lat), with traditional local performances, a Miss Nakhon Si Thammarat beauty contest, a food parade, and a vintage market. 6 4 | SEP T EM BER 2017

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CUISINE ART

Introducing “Isaan Interpretations” This year Ruen Urai’s new menu offerings are inspired by Northeastern Thailand, known as the much-loved region of “Isaan.” Neighbouring the Mekong countries of Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam, these terrains may be the origins of primitive Thai ﬂavours. The simple cooking methods, using the indigenous herbs and spices, make rustic “Isaan” food very popular. Experience ﬁne Thai culinary arts in the oasis that is Ruen Urai, “The House of Gold”. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

ART

| ART & CULTURE

Kru

A tribute to those who inspire us with their actions and knowledge, at Duke Contemporary Art Space

he word “Kru”, in the Thai language, is a word that refers to a person who teaches and inspires, or in more poetic terms… the light leading us to a better place, or sanctuary. Although there are many nuances to this word, most Thai people use it to refer teachers, leaders, and sometimes parents who have set exceptionally good examples. As a terminology to describe teachers in particular, it not only reflects how crucial they are, but also defines the social value of being a teacher, and seeing the influence they have in molding the nation. It’s no surprise therefore that teaching is one of most popular careers in Thailand. This show is a dual exhibition featuring the artwork of YUTTHANA PONGPHASUK, who has been working in the art industry for a long time, and NAPAT NANACHIN a new young artist who started working in the art industry with her uncle, the aforementioned Yutthana. Their version of “Kru” portrays another meaning of the word, which isn’t meant to convey the image of a teacher, but an “inspirer, pusher, and creator”. Thus there are, on display, many types of art reflecting both artists’ experiences. Through their pursuit of art they are led down a path of constant creativity and life learning, in turn symbolizing their meaning of KRU. In this instance, therefore, Yutthana and Napat are teachers for each other, both learning and exchanging their experiences across their mutual age gap. Theirs is a tribute to that precious person who gives, in a way, much more than just inspiration, but the exhibit also makes apparent the gratefulness of the recipient. KRU runs until SEPTEMBER 28 at DUKE CONTEMPORARY ART SPACE (1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd). Viewing hours are Monday to Saturday, from 11am to midnight. For more information, call 094 647 8888. www.facebook.com/pg/duke.gaysorn

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SEP T EM BER 2017 | 67

ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

UNTIL SEPTEMBER 12 The Rainbows

The Queen’s Gallery 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. Viewing hours: Thu-Tue, 10am-7pm Tel: 02 281 5360 | www.queengallery.org

Gathering a total of 170 works of art from members of ‘The Rainbows’—Nuallaor Pintong, Kanchana Saisiriporn, Prammika Phruttinarakorn, Valnapas Jirasithithamrong, and Sukanya Vongvadhanaroj— together with those from Thailand’s renowned artist Somsak Raksuwan, as project consultant, this exhibition reflects upon the mouring period following the passing of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej. The show includes paintings of landscapes and flowers, and a portion of the proceeds from each sale will be donated to the Princess Pa Foundation, Thai Red Cross Society.

UNTIL SEPTEMBER 30 Solitude

Yenakart Villa Art Gallery 69 Soi Prasart Suk, Yenakart Rd. Viewing hours: Wed-Fri 2-7pm, Sat 11am-7pm Tel: 081 902 9196 | www.yenakartvilla.com

This exhibition presents the remarkable body of work of Paul Lukin to the Thai public for the first time. This exhibition explores a decade-long quest to photograph joy and sorrow—a self-assigned project consisting of a series of black and white photographs taken in Southeast Asia from 2007 to 2017, exploring themes of loneliness and alienation in everyday life as well as a visual narrative of the economic and social issues, shown through the human element and an examination of conciseness. Although taken from a Southeast Asian perspective, the photos represent global challenges in the world today.

SEPTEMBER 5–26 Pause

Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Center (RCAC) 84 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 10am-7pm Tel: 02 422 8827 | www.rcac84.com

This dual exhibition of Wasinburee Supanichvoraparch and Udom Udomsrianan, sees both artists pondering human behaviour—raising questions about how we react to certain circumstances. Supanichvorapah’s Mud series, a 7-year ongoing photography project, will be shown to the public for the first time. His photography represents the instant of encounter and reaction. Udomsrianan’s work, meanwhile, is a reciprocal view, revealing insights about the receiver. He recognizes the essentiality of pausing to ruminate, to gain a better understanding of a situation. 68 | SEP T EM BER 2017

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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

SEPTEMBER 9-OCTOBER 28 A Trace of Mortality Kathmandu Photo Gallery

87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Tel: 02 234 6700 | www.kathmanduphotobkk.com

If any photographer could claim to “capture souls” then Eiffel Chong, Malaysia’s leading contemporary photographer, is the man. This exhibit is his first solo show in Thailand, consisting of 15 pieces from 15 years of creative production (from the turn of the century till now). The show is a vivid taste of the artist’s disquieting ability to fill the world with invisible watching eyes. In his black and white series, his ‘Haunted School’ (2001 -2002), empty of students, seems more like a haunted house. By contrast, in ‘Seascape’ (2014) a giant painted plaster crab seems to clack its claws in homage to the noon sun.

SEPTEMBER 16-OCTOBER 31 Fluidity

Thavibu Art Gallery 4F, Jewelry Trade Center Building (Suite 435), 919/1 Silom Rd. Viewing hours: Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 266 5454 | www.thavibuart.com

This dual exhibition features two remarkably different styles of artwork, some created by established artist Santi Thongsuk and some by upcoming artist Sittivut Yavichai. Yet their art shares one thing in common: “fluidity”. Santi’s paintings depict the human body as instruments, rendering the possibility of fluidity of movement through a highly developed kinesthetic awareness involving strength, mobility, and coordination. Sittivut’s mosaic art of reflective coloured glass is inspired by his deep interest of the phenomena of light reflection, architectural edifice, and nature.

SATHORN 12, BANGKOK

For reservations +66 92 563 9991 // reservation@bunkerbkk.com // www.bunkerbkk.com bangkok101.com

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ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

Suan Pakkad Palace

Have you ever dreamed of wandering around a cabbage field in the heart of Bangkok? Well, it’s possible at Suan Pakkad Palace, an attraction whose name means, in reality, the “palace in a cabbage garden”. By Luc Citrinot

ver a hundred years ago, the area on which now stands the Suan Pakkad Palace, was a vast garden specialized in the growth of cabbage. This lasted until the end of the 19th century when Prince Chumbhot Paribatra, and his consort, received the land to establish a residence—a simple palace, built in a modern style for that time. But the property had its destiny changed back in 1952. The Prince had decided to save 100-year-old traditional Thai homes, transporting them to his residential compound and rebuilding them in their original shape, with wooden hallways 70 | SEP T EM BER 2017

connecting each house. The ensemble of traditional houses were used by the Prince as a reception hall, but also a place to display art. In the same year, the complex was opened to the public

and became of the country’s first private residence to become a museum. And while the cabbages have long been gone (although some vases in one of the exhibition rooms are obviously honouring the palace’s name), Suan Pakkad Palace is probably one of the most beautifully preserved traditional Thai homes still left to be admired within the sprawling urban jungle that is Bangkok today. Conveniently located near the Phaya Thai BTS skytrain station, the palace and its gardens is like a hidden gem—a serene oasis in the midst of the never ending traffic of the streets bangkok101.com

museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

and the frenzied crowds boarding the nearby Airport Express trains. Inside, the palace is a wonderful introduction of the rich culture of Siam, starting back as far as prehistoric times with a wonderful collection of Ban Chiang potteries from Northeastern Thailand, and continuing to exquisite pieces of Buddhist sculpture, statues, lacquer objects, khon masks, and musical instruments. The masterpiece of this outstanding collection is the Lacquer Pavilion. Dating back to the late Ayutthaya period, in the 17th-18th century, the delicate former library stood for many years unattended in a city temple in the former capital of Siam. “We can consider it as a sort of bangkok101.com

‘Taj Mahal’ for Prince Chumbhot,” the museum guides explain with pride. Why this nickname? Because this architectural masterpiece was brought here by the prince and restored, specifically as a birthday present for his wife. An incredible proof of love that visitors should certainly be thankful for. The unique architecture of the Pavilion—a double structure, with its walls covered by paintings using real gold over black lacquer—shows how skilled and sophisticated were craftsmen in Ayutthaya in past centuries. Details in the artwork show daily life, evoke the spiritual destiny of Buddha, and illustrate scenes from Ramayana, the ancient Indian epic

poem which greatly influenced the culture of Thailand. Another highlight is an authentic royal barge, made entirely of teak wood, another proof of Siamese craftsmen’s skills. It was used by Prince Chumbhot’s fathers for processions. And finally there is a serene garden with its pond and exotic plants. And most would agree, a tranquil walk here is much nicer than strolling past rows of cabbages.

Suan Pakkad Palace

352-354 Sri Ayudhaya Rd, (nearest BTS Station is Phaya Thai) Open daily: 9am-4pm Admission: B100 per person www.suanpakkad.com SEP T EM BER 2017 | 7 1

ART & CULTURE | special report

Cultural Richness

Bangkok’s 19th International Festival of Dance & Music runs from September 11th to October 19th By Lekha Shankar

he country’s biggest cultural festival unfurls this month with yet another scintillating repertoire of music, dance, and other extraordinary events from around the world. Yes, we are talking of Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance & Music—now in its 19th year and rapidly gaining mega audiences. “I hope Bangkok is soon ranked on par with other cultural capitals of the world,” Mr. J.S. Uberoi, Chairman of the organizing International Cultural Promotions Ltd, stated with pride. The first of the festival’s cultural extravaganzas this month is a splendid array of ballets from Russia, Spartacus performed by the Ekaterinburg Ballet & Opera Theatre Both these productions have been choreographed by troupe, who this year won the ‘Golden Mask Award’—the the world-famous Yuri Grigorovich—who worked with the title for the best ballet-group in the country. And it’s Bolshoi Ballet for 30 years—and are grandiose productions not a coincidence that the best ballet group in Russia is in the best classical sense. After all, both stories have performing at Bangkok’s best cultural festival, as this year historical subjects, strong themes, and plenty of dramatic marks the celebratory 120th year of diplomatic relations action. Spartacus is based on the famous Greek legend between Russia and Thailand. about the slave who revolts against his Roman masters. The opening ballet, on Monday September 11th, is By contrast, Le Corsaire is based on a love poem by the a world-premiere. Entitled Katya and The Prince of Siam, famous poet Lord Byron, about the pirate who falls in love it was specially commissioned for this year’s festival. It’s with a Greek woman, belonging to a pasha’s harem. The based on a memorable, real-life romance between a Middle Eastern costumes and music are as striking as the beautiful Russian girl Katya and a gorgeous Thai Prince… iconic dance sequences in this drama, that have gained a none other than HRH Prince Chakrabongse, son of King unique place in classical ballet (the Le Corsaire Pas de Deux Rama V (see sidebar). being the best example). The Ekaterinburg Ballet & Opera will also perform Totally different is the next event on the September another spectacular ballet, namely the ever-popular programme, which is a ‘first’ for the festival—a Cinderella, with the magnificent music of Sergei performance by the Flying Superkids of Denmark Prokofiev, which will be staged on Wednesday on Tuesday September 19th. A delightful event, September 13th. Apart from the dazzling sets, suitable for the whole family, this show has costumes, and stage design, a highlight of this youngsters of different ages performing unique production is the amalgam of old and new marvelously on stage, running the gamut of forms. Many sequences have modern settings, singers, dancers, acrobats, and gymnasts. costumes, dance movements, and the Launched by a well-known Danish gymnast Prince has an interesting new-age look! back in 1967, with just 20 kids, the group For lovers of classical dance now has 400 members and their highit’s welcome news that two more voltage onstage antics have knocked grandiloquent Russian ballets out audiences around the world. will be staged at the festival, by yet Flamenco has always been very another world-famous Russian ballet popular at this Festival, and this year troupe—the Bashkir State Opera and there are two dazzling flamenco Theatre. This company, noted for its shows by the Antonio Andrade strong adherence to classical traditions, is Flamenco Company from Andalucia, where the all-time great Russian ballet dancer which is the heartland of flamenco Rudolf Nureyev started his career. They will be in Spain. On Friday September 22nd performing Spartacus on Friday September 15th, get set for Torera, the latest production and Le Corsaire on Sunday September 17th. Peter Marvey

72 | SEP T EM BER 2017

bangkok101.com

special report | ART & CULTURE The 19th International Festival of Dance & Music is on at The Thailand Cultural Centre (Main Hall), from September 11th to October 19th. All shows begin at 7:30pm. For more information, call 02 247 0028, or visit www.bangkokfestivals.com. Order tickets online at: www.thaiticketmajor.com

WORLD PREMIERE BALLET

Flamenco, with Ursula Moreno of this group, which is an ambitious, symbolical drama that deals with the conflicting emotions in human beings. Famed dancer Ursula Moreno enacts the conflicted woman, who gracefully moves in harmony with the image of a bull—which is the revered image of Andalucia. Then, on Saturday September 23rd, George Bizet’s Carmen— which has been a favourite at the festival, and been performed many times—gets a flamenco kickstart. This production is quite different than what you might be used to, as it incorporates jazz, salsa, and Arabian elements in a sensational version of this memorable tale. Chinese performers have been creating waves at the festival in the past, and this year Bangkok audience will be treated to the Shanghai Philharmonic Orchestra, performing on Sunday September 24th. This is one of the top five orchestras in a country that has at least 100 top orchestras, and the ensemble has, in the past, collaborated with world-famous musicians such as Luciano Pavarotti, Lu Siqing Jose Carreras, Yo Yo Ma, and Isaac Stern. Their programme at the festival will include the marvelous rhythms of Bernstein and Dvorak. In addition, the orchestra will introduce to Bangkok audiences one of the most talked about Chinese violinists of today, Lu Siqing. The last show in September will indeed be a magical one, as the world-famous Swiss illusionist Peter Marvey brings his ‘WOW! World of Wonders’, to town for two eye-popping evenings—Friday the 28th and Saturday the 29th. Marvey, who has won top international prizes, like the Merlin Award and the Magic Wand Award, has wowed audiences in more than 50 countries around the world. This month he will unleash a brand-new and breath-taking show in Bangkok, which includes magic carpets, fire balls, genie wands, and flying carriages. To quote Swiss Ambassador HE Ivo Sieber, “Bangkok audiences should be prepared for magic without limits!” The same can be said about this year’s festival, in fact, which promises “entertainment without limits”. Watch out for coverage of the festival’s October programme in next month’s issue of Bangkok 101. bangkok101.com

The opening performance at Bangkok’s 19th International Festival of Dance & Music will be Katya and the Prince of Siam, a ballet specially commissioned for the festival in celebration of the 120th year of diplomatic relations between Thailand and Russia. It deals with the real-life love story of HRH Prince Chakrabongse and a lovely Russian girl Katya, which, in fact, was the basis of a much-read book by the same name (written by the Prince’s granddaughter Narisa Chakrabongse). Prince Chakrabongse was sent by his father, King Rama V, to serve in the elite ‘Page Corps’ of Russia, which brought the royal families of both countries very close to each other. In Russia, the handsome Prince was invited to several parties, and at a ball in St. Petersburg, he met and fell in love with Katya, a beautiful girl from Kiev. Their romance, however, was interrupted by World War I, when Katya signed up as a nurse. The Thai Prince was filled with tension, but she returned safely, whereupon he married her and took her to his homeland. At first, she was considered an outsider in Siam, but Katya gradually became loved and respected by the people of the Thai kingdom. The ballet is studded with grand sets and costumes, and the masterful choreography is by the famed choreographer Vasily Medvedev of the Bolshoi Ballet. The wonderful music has been conducted by another well-known Bolshoi artiste, Mikhail Granovski, but it’s the riveting love story that will most likely captivate Bangkok audiences. To quote J.S. Uberoi, Chairman of the organizing International Cultural Promotions Ltd, “The story of Katya and The Prince of Siam—a world premiere—is essentially a love story between a young couple, and the dancing speaks of their love as they bridge their cultural divide.” The “cultural divide” can be seen as “cultural richness” in this production, which has a dazzling amalgam of both Thai and Russian costumes, musical rhythms, and dance forms. It is indeed, a perfect ballet to launch this year’s festival, and to celebrate the longstanding diplomatic ties between Thailand and Russia.

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ART & CULTURE | arts interview

Khon Kaen to Cannes

In conversation with acclaimed Thai director Apichatpong Weerasethakul

hai film director Apichatpong ‘Joe’ Weerasethakul, who in 2010 won the Palme d’Or at Cannes for his film Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives, gave a rare and intimate Master Lecture at the BACC last month; revealing that his next feature will be filmed not in his hometown of Khon Kaen (like all his movies up till now), but in the far-away Latin American country of Colombia. This 46-year-old artiste, who got a degree in architecture before doing a Master’s degree in Film Studies in Chicago, is as noted for his art installations as for his films, which reflect his strongly independent views on social, political, and religious issues. His last feature film, Cemetery of Splendor, about a group of soldiers, sleeping/dreaming throughout the movie, was considered controversial and was not released in Thailand. During the August lecture—in a jam-packed auditorium full of students, academics, film buffs, and film-makers—he was frank, friendly, and fearless, as he answered a wide range of questions. Here are a few selected excerpts.

On his home town: All my films came out of the environment I grew up in, at my Isaan hometown of Khon Kaen. I loved the wooden house where I lived, and the wooden movie-hall where I enjoyed watching many disaster and action-packed movies. The statues, monuments, temples, gardens, fireworks, lakes, gardens, and the Mekong River—they all feature in my films. On film locations: Many of my films were shot in the hospital where my parents worked. I was struck by the fact that everyone seemed to be waiting in a hospital. Everything is in slow-motion there. My 85-year-old mother still practices there, though my father is no more. 74 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 7

no grades, as in Khon Khaen, and you learned to respect yourself, not listen to others. On art and film: I think art and film are both connected. They are both basically about compositions. I always try to create a dialogue between film, art, and other forms. My film Uncle Boonmee was a film, art installation, and book. If people do not understand my films, it does not worry me. I set myself as my audience, and am true to myself.

Apichatpong Weerasethakul

My film Syndrome and a Century was dedicated to them. On the microscope: In the hospital, I loved looking through my parents’ microscope. I saw the changing lights, shades, and shapes. Making films is, indeed, like looking through a microscope. I always play with colours, with light and darkness. On the importance of dreams: Sleeping and dreaming are along the same lines, and are important to my films. Dreams have their own reality. In fact, that may be a better reality than what you live in. My 2015 film Cemetery of Splendor is a house of dreams, and the sleeping soldiers are all living in their own virtual reality. On architecture: You learn about design, composition, and taking people from point to point. On education: I didn’t agree with the educational system in Thailand, but it was when I went to the US that I realized the difference. It was a shock when I realized that they respected the individual perspective. There were

On social media: I don’t favour this ‘technology’. It’s a false bubble that one should get out off. If one spent less time on Facebook/Twitter, one could get a lot more work done, including getting funds for one’s films! On a good producer: He must set you deadlines and a time framework, which is very important for a creative director. The director must stick to it, and forget about everything else, like Facebook and Twitter. I’m lucky that I’ve found a good producer. On Thailand: Thailand is still learning the language of how to speak, articulate, criticize, of creating their own vocabulary. Unlike Colombia. Art is politicized in Colombia, symbols are double-edged. This is the country of drugs, violence, earthquakes, and volcanos. Everything is scaled up there. I can’t work from a Colombian perspective, but I will work with my own perspective in Colombia. I’ve got a story, I’ve got funds, so… I’ll be going into pre-production soon. The tentative title of the film is Memoria. I’m also making a short film entitled Monument. So, I’m really busy, but if you love what you are doing, everything falls into place— whichever country you are in. Compiled by Lekha Shankar bangkok101.com

cinema scope | ART & CULTURE

Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott

Soul Kitchen

Unutursam Fisilda

Il Ragazzo Invisibile

La Pazza Gioia

here are two major film festivals going on in Bangkok this month, and the first to get underway is a series of screenings presented by the River City Bangkok Film Club. For five consecutive Saturdays they will be presenting five diverse and dynamic film festival favourites—and best of all, they’re all free! The opening film, on September 2nd, is Soul Kitchen (Germany), an award-winning 2009 film directed by Fatih Akin which combines food and music to paint a multi-dimensional portrait of a multi-ethnic community in Germany. After the screening there will be snacks and drinks courtesy of the Embassy of Germany and the Goethe Institute, Thailand. On September 9th don’t miss Unutursam Fisilda (Turkey), a 2014 film directed by Çağan Irmak—whose title translates to “Whisper, If I Forget”— centred around the meteoric rise of a beautiful singer. Post-screening snacks and drinks will be courtesy of the Embassy of Turkey. On September 16th you can catch the ever-popular Bend It Like Beckham (UK), directed by Gurinder Chadha. This fantastic feel-good movie depicts the clash between traditional values and the modern world, telling the often comical story of a young girl who simply wants to play football, like her idol David Beckham (snacks and drinks will be provided after the screening). Then, on September 23rd, the 2014 film East Side Sushi (USA), directed by Anthony Lucero, will be shown. This vibrant tale of a Mexican girl who wants to become a sushi chef in a Japanese restaurant won the Audience Award at many festivals. This screening is supported by the Embassy of the United States and there will be sushi served after the bangkok101.com

East Side Sushi screening. The festival closes on September 30th with Fair Play (Czech Republic), a powerful 2014 film directed by Andrea Sedlackova that centres around the issue of doping in professional sports during the Communist era. Snacks and drinks, courtesy of the Embassy of the Czech Republic, will be provided after the screening. All screenings take place at 4pm at the RCB Film Club, Room 201, River City Bangkok (23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Si Phraya Pier). For information call 02 237 0077 ext. 622/701, or email rcbfilmclub@gmail.com, or anusorn@ rivercity.co.th. The other major film event this month is the Italian Film Festival Bangkok, which runs from September 12th to the 17th at the Quartier CineArt (4F, Waterfall Quartier at EmQuartier). The seven titles being screened are: Il Ragazzo Invisibile (2014); Io Arlecchino (2015); Se Dio Vuole (2015); I Volti della Via Francigena (2016); La Pazza Gioia (2016); Perfetti Sconosciuti (2016); and Piuma (2016). All movies will be shown in Italian, with English and—for the first time—Thai subtitles. For more information, visit www.facebook.com/italianfestivalthailand. Finally, it’s worth noting that the exclusive Thai premiere of the 2015 film Long Way North continues till September 15th at the Bangkok Screening Room (Sala Daeng Soi 1). This animated film is set in late 19th century St. Petersburg, where Sacha, a young girl from the Russian aristocracy, dreams of the Great North and anguishes over the fate of her grandfather, Oloukine, a renowned scientist and Arctic explorer who has yet to return from his latest expedition to conquer the North Pole. www.bkksr.com SEP T EM BER 2017 | 75

Art & Culture

Photo Feature

Vivid Visions Infrared Photography by Danaan Andrew

Born in Carmel Valley, California, Danaan Andrew is a 31-year-old artist, photographer, videographer, and writer who is enthusiastic about all things strange and odd. One of his passions is Infrared Photography, a niche photographic medium that blurs the real with the intangible and psychedelic. Perhaps that’s why Thailand, and other parts of Southeast Asia, make such a suitable subject matter for this photographic process. “The way to achieve these images is to remove the IR blocking filter on a digital camera’s sensor so that it only picks up infrared light—which itself, isn't seen by the human eye,” Danaan explains. “Historically, infrared imaging was used for aerial photography during WWII to easily differentiate foliage from buildings and munitions caches, in addition to being used by geologists to clearly see the contrast between rivers, mountains, streams, and plant life. “I have a converted 500D Canon DSLR that is used exclusively for infrared photography, the resulting images I can achieve in post-production remind me of the often limited banal world of modern photography. By using infrared I can achieve images that show the world through a psychedelic lens. Infrared photography reminds me of how extremely limited our senses as human beings are to the natural world around us. “The best subjects for infrared photos are forests, natural environments, and anything with plentiful plant life and skies with dramatic clouds combined with plentiful sunlight. By using infrared I can also continue shooting during what is considered the worst time of the day for photography, when the sun is harshest and at its zenith (11am to 3pm)." To see more of Danaan Andrew’s work, or to order prints, visit: www.facebook.com/ShyGangsta

Rice Field, Fang (Thailand)

Forest waterfall, Chiang Mai (Thailand)

Chao Phraya River, Bangkok (Thailand)

Boats in the water at Koh Phi Phi (Thailand)

Rice field in Mae Taeng (Thailand)

Angkor Wat, Siem Reap (Cambodia)

FOOD & DRINK |

New Japanese Head Chef Yukio Takeda is set to wow diners at the JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 82 | SEP T EM BER 2017

bangkok101.com

| FOOD & DRINK

AROY japanese imports

It’s been noted that the largest single expat community in Bangkok is the Japanese, which explains why there are so many amazing Japanese restaurants in this city—most importing not only top of the line ingredients from Japan but also their star-powered chefs. A recent addition to this list of kitchen talent is YUKIO TAKEDA, who has been appointed Japanese Head Chef at the JW MARRIOTT HOTEL BANGKOK (4, Sukhumvit Soi 2). He’ll be overseeing things at the hotel’s TSU Japanese restaurant, and NAMI Teppanyaki steakhouse. Chef Takeda has worked at some of the world’s most established kitchens, including the twoMichelin-starred Umu Japanese restaurant in London, and the Grand Hyatt in Hong Kong, where he was the man behind the famous Kaetsu restaurant and its crafted hand-rolled sushi and Teppanyaki menu. Come and experience his amazing culinary craftsmanship.

back-to-back michelin menus Along with the Michelin star power arriving in Bangkok as part of the World Gourmet Festival (see pg. 86), and the SO Amazing Chefs event (see pg. 11), Bangkok foodies can also enjoy the appearance of two more superstar chefs coming to town this month. At THE ST. REGIS BANGKOK their ‘Michelin-Star Dining’ September programme features Chef RONNY EMBORG, from the two-Michelin-starred Atera in Tribeca, New York. He’ll be at the hotel’s JOJO restaurant from Monday the 18th to Saturday the 23rd. Meanwhile, Chef MICHEL ROUX—whose restaurant The Waterside Inn, in London, remains the only restaurant in the world outside France to have retained three Michelin stars for more than 30 years—is coming to the MANDARIN ORIENTAL, BANGKOK. He’ll be at the hotel’s acclaimed LE NORMANDIE restaurant from September 25th to the 30th.

sawasdee-lah! The award-winning modern Thai restaurant LE DU (399/3, Silom Soi 7) welcomes chef HAN LI GUANG of the Michelin-starred modern Singaporean restaurant LABYRINTH for two exclusive four-hand dinners with resident chef THITID TASSANAKAJOHN. Taking place on September 13th and 14th, these six-course dinners will marvel local foodies with each chef’s impeccable Asian-rooted modern creations, including chef Han’s crab with chili ice cream and salted fish and chef Thitid’s oyster with Thai rice wine. The price is B2,900++ (add B1,800++ for wine pairing), and reservations can be made by calling 092 919 9969, or emailing info@ledubkk.com.

crammed for space Although it’s been open since 2014, tucked away on Sukhumvit Soi 39, KRAM restaurant has recently added several dine and drink spots to its front yard space, including COASTAL, a fun and funky bamboo bar, and a hip java joint courtesy of Singaporean coffee roasters SARNIES—which occupies two glass-fronted shipping containers in the yard. But foodies are buzzing most about MAISON DE BANGKOK (also occupying a container), which is quite possibly Bangkok’s tiniest chef’s table restaurant, with room for just six diners. Here, Chef CHATCHAI CHAENGNAKORN serves multi-course East-meets-West flavoured meals.

bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

Feast on Mud Crabs at Up & Above Restaurant

The Okura Prestige Bangkok | 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com Found in abundance in river estuaries and costal mangroves across the world, but particularly prevalent in Southeast Asia, fast-growing mud crabs are a summer delicacy prized for their high flesh content, which is imbued with all the sweet flavours of the sea. To celebrate the season of harvest for this tasty, meaty crustacean, the chefs at Up & Above Restaurant will be serving up a mud crab feast throughout September. These special à la carte dishes from start at just B480++ and are available to order daily from noon till 10:30pm.

River Prawns Get Thai Treatment at Smooth Curry

Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Méridien Hotel | 61 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 650 8800 | www.plazaatheneebangkok.com Smooth Curry is pumped about prime plump river prawns this September, leading to a succession of exceptionally appetizing culinary creations. Sous Chef Montri and his kitchen team present a mouth-watering river prawn-starring à la carte Thai menu, featuring dishes such as: Mae Nam Lui Suan (B 1,100++), deep-fried river prawn mixed with Thai herbs and spicy dressing; Goong Mae Nam Nueang Gra Tiam Tone (B 980++), steamed river prawns with a garlic, chili, and lime dressing; and Goong Mae Nam Phad Prik Gluea (B 980++), wok-fried river prawns with salt, chili, and garlic. Available daily from 11:30am to 10:30pm.

Sunday Brunchin’ at Atelier

Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit | 30 Asoke Rd. Tel: 02 204 4161 | www.pullmanbangkokgrandesukhumvit.com Ah, Sunday. No alarm clock and a slower pace. Make the most of it with Sunday brunch at Atelier. Gather family and friends and savour a truly outstanding brunch buffet, with menu highlights including seafood on ice with king crab, snow crab, oysters, mussels, prawns, live cooking stations, plenty of salads, and, of course, mouthwatering desserts. You’ll even find a kids’ corner featuring a magician and balloon clown. Priced at B1,899++ per person, including free flow soft drinks. Accor Plus members receive a 40% discount on group dining up to 6 persons. Available every Sunday from noon to 3pm.

Mooncake Festival at Liu

Conrad Bangkok | 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9999 | www.conradhotels.com/bangkok The Mid-Autumn Festival (also known as the Mooncake Festival) is celebrated on the 15th day of the eighth month in the traditional East Asian lunar calendar. It’s a time marked by various festivities, including the enjoyment of scrumptious mooncakes. Conrad’s Chinese Master Chef Jacky Chan carefully prepares his mooncakes with all-time favourite ‘East meets West’ flavours, such as Golden Custard and Classic Durian. These exquisite mooncakes are baked fresh each day and are available until October 4th. A four-piece set in a Conrad Precious Chest is priced at B650 while the eight-piece set is priced at B1,150.

‘W Does Brunch’ Featuring ‘Juli Baker & Summer’

W Bangkok | 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4210 | www.wbangkok.com ‘W Does Brunch’ is now twice the fun, as it occurs every first and third Saturday of the month, combining fashion, gastronomy, music, and cocktail culture! Adding an artistic flair to the mix is Bangkok-based artist Chanaradee Chatrakul Na Ayutthya and her ‘Juli Baker and Summer’ Spanish inspired art collection, entitled ‘Here Comes the Sun’. The Sunday brunch is priced at B2,500++ per person including soft drinks and juices, while the ‘Experience’ package is priced at B3,100++ per person and includes cocktails, wines, and beers. Available from 12:30pm to 4:30pm.

Classic English Afternoon Tea at Hanuman Bar

Siam Kempinski | 991/9 Rama I Rd. Tel: 02 162 9000 | www.kempinski.com/bangkok Chef Frank’s interpretation of the classic English afternoon tea includes cucumber sandwiches, glazed lavender pound cake, caramelized Earl Grey éclairs, English summer pudding, hazelnut and caramel macaroons, dark cherry Bakewell tart and more. Guests may choose from an extensive selection of coffee and tea blends. The afternoon tea experience may also be enhanced with Chandon Brut sparkling wine or Louis Roederer Champagne. This classic English afternoon tea is served daily from 2pm to 5pm and is priced at B650++ per person.

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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK

Cuisine De Garden Fine dining through nature

hen you enter this urban restaurant you don’t notice that the ceiling tall trees in woodland décor are rooted in the earth. But this homage to nature offers a hint of the multisensory meal to come. The first Cuisine De Garden restaurant opened in Chiang Mai in 2011, and the second is now open in Bangkok—as of July—with Chef Leelawat ‘Nan’ Mankongtiphan masterminding the kitchen menu. The restaurant offers a Full Course Dinner (B1,590), divided into “chapters”, wherein diners choose one item from each chapter. These items are also available à la carte (prices shown). The complementary Artisan Brioche is served with citrus crème bangkok101.com

fraîche, and arrives on a giant green leaf bread “plate” that comes from the Chiang Mai kitchen garden. Next we were presented with Coast to Coast (B190), designed to be sampled from left to right—the shrimp, mussel, salmon and caviar, and blue crab— where the delicate tastes become increasingly flavoursome. From Chapter 1 we choose Seacret (B320), with Hokkaido scallop and chayote compress, red kelp, lime air, and ponzu. And a conch shell is used to pour the seaweed liquour. As a team we also try Terrarium (B320), a sweet-andsour duck with shallot chutney, and cress salad. Complete with a glass jar that infuses smoked applewood over leaves and flowers.

Nest (B350), from Chapter 2, is a bird’s nest with an egg laid on top and a bowl of ‘hay’ for the eggshell. I’m instructed to break the egg, and as this oozes out, I taste a balance of pulled chicken with onzen organic egg, crispy vermicelli, truffle sense with shiitake, and aromatic sticks of burdock root perched on the side. We also enjoy Eclipse (B350), a crescent moon cooked with barley risotto, and anchovy, topped with crispy sunchoke and veloute. In Chapter 3, we feast on the Monet inspired Water Lilies (B580). A pretty plate of pan roasted halibut, pink petals, grilled pickled lotus stem, lotus seed, and green pennywort purée. From Chapter 4 we sample the dairy dessert ménage Farm (B250), consisting of a soft and silky goat’s milk panna cotta with melting beads of snow, a dollop of macadamia flower-infused honey on the side, and jagged white foam. Rehydrated goat’s milk wafers on the top break apart with each bite. We also try Coral (B250), with a contrasting matcha mousse, black sesame sponge, orange compote, and yuzu sauce on the side. The last Chapter, Stone (B100), sees hand-made roselle and tamarind dark chocolates, served on black onyx pebbles. When we bite the edible “stones”, the reward is a crispy shell and gooey sweet centre. The wine list is a selection of new and old world, and the signature cocktails are as innovative as the food. We sip the sweet gin-based, Macadamia Cocktail (B290), and the delicate lychee, gin, beer foam, and kaffir lime leaf Ma-Krud Cocktail (B290). And to complete the meal, we sample the refreshing TWG Oolong Tea (B150). by Sara Wilson

Cuisine De Garden 12/6, Ekkamai Soi 2 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 053 3059 www.cuisinedegarden.com

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FOOD & DRINK | special report

Sophisticated Soirées

The nighttime is the right time to visit the 18th World Gourmet Festival at the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, as champagne, fine wines, and premium spirits will be flowing freely

his month, from the 4th to the 10th of September, Bangkok’s nightlife calendar is filled with an array of not-to-be-missed evening events taking place at the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel (155 Ratchadamri Rd) as part of the 18th World Gourmet Festival. Most of these events are the gourmet chef dinners themselves, which will see no less than 11 acclaimed international chefs preparing the dishes that made them world famous—all for this city’s fervent foodies (see facing page for details). Alongside the dinners—and one brunch—the folks behind the WGF have prepared an intriguing line-up of specially curated early evening and nighttime gatherings, showcasing some of the world’s finest wines and spirits. In fact, during the entire course of the festival, daily from 6pm till 11pm, the hotel’s Lobby Lounge plays host to the Taittinger Champagne Journey, which includes a selection of Teuscher chocolates on offer alongside the various styles and vintages of Taittinger brand premium champagne (price: B1,400 for 3 glasses). Champagne fans should also take note that a Taittinger Master Class, led by the man himself Mr. Nicolas Delion—Taittinger Champagne Connoisseur—will be held in the Lobby Lounge on September 7th, from 4pm to 6pm (price: B2,400). Meanwhile, wine lovers will not want to miss the Rosé Wine Tasting event being held September 6th, from 4pm to 6pm, at Aqua. The specially selected labels and vintages on offer will represent a diverse array of rosés from all around the globe. The tasting will be led by the WGF’s very own Wine Guru, who will guide the assembled guests through the tasting, remarking on all aspects of the vintner’s craft (price: B1,200).

AFTERNOON TEA BUFFET This year’s 3pm to 6pm WGF Afternoon Tea buffets will both feature a selection of teas by world-class master tea blender Mariage Frères. Indulge in the aromatic pleasure of these custom crafted brews, which will, in turn, be paired perfectly with a variety of sweet and savoury treats—all created by Executive Pastry Chef Laurent Duffaut. Both Afternoon Tea buffet sessions, September 8th and 9th respectively, will be held in the Lobby Lounge, where the serene and distinguished ambience will allow guests to fully experience and discover the history behind these fine teas (price: B1,200).

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Start the night right at Aqua Another wine-related event is entitled Fragrance & Fashion and takes place in the Pimarnman room on September 9th, running from 3pm to 5pm. The wines will be supplied by Italasia, the hotel’s Executive Chef Jan van Dyk will create the exquisite menu, Lampe Berger will be curating an array of intoxicating aromas, and the design team Munchu’s will be presenting a fashion show—with jewellery by Lotus Arts de Vivre (price: B2,700). By contrast, the pouring continues a bit later into the night at the WGF’s two “spirit forward” events. Campari lovers won’t want to miss the Italian Night with Negroni & Aperol, which showcases two quintessentially Italian beverages. Taking place September 7th at Aqua, running from 6pm to midnight, this pay-as-you-go party promises to be a fun-filled affair. Another pay-as-you-go event at Aqua featuring top shelf shots is the aptly named Blue Friday with Johnnie Walker Blue Label, where guests can sample exceptional whiskies—including Johnnie Walker’s legendary ‘Blue Label’ brand—and enjoy curated cocktails made by guest bartenders chosen from the majority finalists from the Diageo ‘World Class’ competition. Drop in anytime between 6pm and midnight on September 8th for a taste of Scotland’s finest. Finally, the Anantara Siam’s Aqua bar is also the spot to join in on the Diageo Night with Bobby Chinn & Friends, hosted by famed restaurateur Bobby Chinn and his band—flown in direct from Hanoi. On Saturday September 9th, from 9pm to midnight, enjoy custom cocktails crafted by bartender guests from the Diageo team (à la carte pricing). bangkok101.com

special report | FOOD & DRINK

The WGF Chef Dinners Once again the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel is host to the World Gourmet Festival, where award-winning chefs will display a range of culinary creativity like you’ve never seen before CRISTINA BOWERMAN Chef at: Glass Hosteria (Rome, Italy) Venue: Biscotti Date: September 4-5 Price: B7,100

JOCK ZONFRILLO Chef at: Restaurant Orana (Adelaide, Australia) Venue: Madison Date: September 8-9 Price: B5,900

GUILLAUME GALLIOT Chef at: Caprice, Four Seasons Hotel (Hong Kong, China) Venue: Madison Date: September 4-5 Price: B8,500

COSTARDI BROTHERS Chefs at: Ristorante Christian e Manuel (Vercelli, Italy) Venue: Biscotti Date: September 8-9 Price: B7,100

HIROAKI ISHIZUKA Chef at: Kien Restaurant (Tokyo, Japan) Venue: Shintaro Date: September 6-7 Price: B7,100

ANATOLY KAZAKOV Chef at: Restaurant Selfie (Moscow, Russia) Venue: Spice Market Date: September 8-9 Price: B5,900

MIGUEL LAFFAN Chef at: L’And Vineyards (Alentejo, Portugal) Venue: Biscotti Date: September 6-7 Price: B7,100

SHINICHIRO TAKAGI Chef at: Restaurant Zeniya (Kanazawa, Japan) Venue: Shintaro Date: September 8-9 Price: B8,500

JASON TAN Chef at: The Corner House (Singapore) Venue: Madison Date: September 6-7 Price: B7,100

WGF BRUNCH With chef Bobby Chinn (TV host, author, restaurateur) Venue: Aqua, Madison, and Spice Market Date: September 10 Time: 11:30am-3pm Price: B4,500 alcohol package, B3,500 non-alcohol package

indicates a Michelin star All dinners begin at 7:30pm (unless otherwise noted). Pre-dinner drinks begin at 7pm. Prices are subject to 10% service charge and 7% tax. From each dinner ticket sold B600 will be donated to the HRH Princess Soamsawali AZT Fund for Pregnant Women of The Thai Red Cross Society. For more detailed information, or to make your dinner reservations, please call: 02 126 8866 ext. 1517-9, or email: wgf.asia@anantara.com. www.worldgourmetfestival.asia bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK | review

Rock Restaurant & Bar A labyrinth of modern infused Thai recipes

ntent on making a bolder statement, Rock Restaurant & Bar has moved from its original hard-to-reach location in an inconspicuous alley in Ari, to its new and more upscale address on Soi Ruamrudee, near Ploen Chit BTS. Asymmetrical metallic webs climbing the restaurant’s exterior glass walls announce your arrival. Inside, a forest of massive trees climb the walls and columns, while Balian hand-spun chandeliers hang from the ceiling like stalagmites, and amorphous limestone tables dot the floor. “The inspiration was a mix of future meets nature; to make people comfortable in a modern but earthy environment,” says designer Richard Emden, who created the original Rock back in 2014 with his wife Lucy. The restaurant’s name and décor—and portions of the menu—are heavily influenced by Shilin, Yunnan province’s beautiful “stone forest” (Lucy’s hometown is Kunming, China). While the dining room is softly lit, the bar to one side shines a radiating halo for the formidable shelves of alcohol, to be mixed into such wittily titled concoctions as Kunming Tourist 88 | SEP T EM BER 2017

Trap (B300) and My Bitter Chinese Ex-Mother in Law (B300). A bespoke electro-house playlist—created by DJ Scott Hess—forms the sonic backdrop, while a warm greeting from host and co-owner Fiona Sayer creates an all-enveloping welcome. Head chef Thanyathorn ‘Pla’ Kojaranonta (previously at David Thompson’s Nahm), oversees the kitchen and menu, which offers a blend of traditional Thai recipes enhanced with Western aspects. A wide range of canapés offer small bites of classic recipes, such as savoury Chinese-inspired Syrupy Pork Buns (B170-370), and perfectly grilled Chicken Satay (B120-280), as well as more innovative dishes such as Fresh Pomelo Slaw (B90-240), which is attractively served on lotus flower petals. The Oyster Shot! (B170-370) gave us the spicy wake-up we didn’t know we needed, but no worries… the waitresses are trained to bring a glass of chilled butterfly-pea tea if they notice a customer in hot distress. From the appetizer menu, Crispy Oysters (B260) offer a friendly harmony of two classic Thai ingredients: fried oysters and minced

pork salad. However, the real treats come in the main courses. Creamy yellow Crab Curry with Rice Noodle (B330) makes a comforting backdrop to an immensely unique signature dish, while Coconut Poached Prawn Kanom Jin (B330) masterfully targets four different flavour profiles. Pleasantly bitter fried ginger, succulent pineapple and prawns, spicy chopped peppers, and tangy fruit juice all meld together with silky and light coconut milk. Kept at room temperature to brighten the tastes, this dish is quite unlike anything we’ve ever tried before. If you haven’t loosened your belt yet, don’t hesitate to order one of four available sweet indulgences. We enjoyed Toddy Palm Butter Cake (B230), a moist, warm khanom tan made tropical with dollops of chilled shredded coconut and passion fruit pulp. by Laurie Cohen

Rock Restaurant & Bar

48/8-9 Soi Ruamrudee Open: Mon-Sat, 5:30pm-midnight Tel: 082 688 8200 www.facebook.com/rockrestaurantandbar bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Park Society

Fine dining is back on the menu at this high altitude haven

fter taking a temporary hiatus, the chefs at Park Society, led by Head Chef Joost Bijster, have brought fine dining back to the multi-award-winning restaurant, fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques with the new four-course Chef’s Signature degustation menu. We arrived at 6pm, just in time to catch the sunset and watch the sky change from hues of vanilla to deep violet. Located on the 29th floor of SO Sofitel Bangkok, the restaurant provides extensive views over Lumphini Park and of the surrounding cityscape. Although the restaurant seems small in size, it easily seats 80 people. Floor-to-ceiling windows and an open layout fills the space with light bangkok101.com

and makes it feel extremely spacious, while the tables lining the windows offer guests unobstructed views for a true in-the-sky dining experience. Naturally, we opted for Chef Joost’s Signature Menu, which is priced at B2,600. The featured dishes change regularly, and are also available à la carte. However, the amuse bouche teasers that precede the starters are just as creative as the rest of the menu, and add to the fine dining experience. The first amuse bouche was Dim Sum Kha served with dry ice. The creamy tom kha broth explodes in your mouth, leaving notes of kaffir lime lingering on the tongue. Mushroom Balls with Truffle Mayonnaise followed, whetting our appetites even further.

The first course consisted of home-cured trout, full of flavour with a beautiful firm texture, paired with pickled vegetables, horseradish, a honey and yuzu dressing, and sprinkled with paprika for a hint of spice. With each bite came an explosion of different flavour combinations. The suitably named East Meets West followed next (pictured). Aromas of the smoked tom yum infused lobster bisque hit us before it even reached the table, and the flavours were perfectly balanced. The scents of smoked lemongrass and Kaffir leaves lingered throughout and enhanced the entire course. This particular dish proved to be the favourite of the night, and we couldn’t resist asking for more. For mains, mallard duck cooked medium rare was served alongside sweet beetroot, ripe figs, and an orange sauce that brought together all the rich flavours of the dish. The portion size seemed small, but we soon realized it was to ensure we had enough room for the fourth and final course: dessert! Chocolate lovers will rejoice over the Valrhona chocolate dedicated dessert, comprising of various preparations including chocolate tuile, mousse, and ganache on a crispy hazelnut and chocolate biscuit base, topped with a chocolate log, and served with home-made chocolate ice cream. On the recommendation of the knowledgeable staff, the Paul Jaboulet Aine Parallèle 45 Cotes du Rhône Blanc suited well as an accompaniment to the meal. Of course, the Hi-So Bar on the adjacent terrace provides an even higher altitude alternative for an after-dinner tipple. by Kelly Harvey

Park Society

29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com SEP T EM BER 2017 | 89

FOOD & DRINK | review

Katana Shabu

Authentically “un”-traditional Japanese cuisine

ith a “secret entry” door cleverly camouflaged as a stone wall, handpainted walls, rooms with medieval castle-style stone walls, and an artisan-crafted Japanese-style sala dominating the floor space near the sushi bar, one might assume Katana Shabu & Japanase Dining restaurant is simply a showcase of impressive design—but it soon becomes clear that the innovative décor is only the start of the inspiring dining adventure to come. Chef Tetsu Fukuda’s cooking style is not so much fusion as it is hitting the sweet-spot crossroads of Japanese and Western cuisine, harnessing the key elements of each premium imported ingredient to create dishes of distinctive personality and profound depth of flavour. Case in point: Cream Cheese 90 | SEP T EM BER 2017

Fondue with Truffle—the starter of the ‘Kaiseki Ei Roku with Shabu-Shabu’ eight-course set menu (B3,500)—in which skewers of minced prawn with olive oil and sweet potato are dipped in a bowl of molten cheese and generously adorned a la minute with shavings from plump, fresh black truffles plated alongside. The Amberjack Sashimi which followed was served with cream mustard and mint-like Perilla leaves. The light coloured flesh was delicate of flavour and firm of bite, exuding a Tokyo seafood-market level of freshness. The East-meets-West vibe continued unabated with the Foie Gras & Truffle Chawan-Mushi. This savoury steamed (mushi) custard is presented in a small covered soup bowl (chawan), topped with a clear oyster sauce, puréed truffle, and foie gras. The rich textured custard comes

alive on the palate with a satisfying earthy-smoky flavour. The Fried Flatfish came slathered in a thick, clear sauce atop a wedge of fried radish, with mustard greens and citrusy-tart yuzu. This was followed by a jumbo Grilled Rock Oyster with fig and two-colour miso (baked in its original half-shell with a top layer of oven-browned mozzarella and buckwheat kernels). The menu headliner was the Kuroge Wagyu Shabu featuring top-grade A5 beef with its distinctive marbling. Quick-fried in a clear broth along with lettuce, tofu, and mushrooms, the tissue-thin beef is served with sesame or yuzu sauce. The remaining broth—now deeply infused with combined essence of the Shabu ingredients—is pressed into doubleduty as the cooking medium for the next course, resulting in an intensely flavourful base for the indescribably delectable Kishimen Udon Noodles. Dessert comes calling with Vanilla Gelato and Peach Pudding, a light but supremely satisfying finish to a delightful, surprisingly eclectic meal. Service is exceptional, guided as it is by the traditional principle of “omotenashi”—the act of anticipating one’s needs and desires—and indeed, wait staff are meticulously professional and thoroughly insightful. Those familiar with the Katana brand will note that this Soi 23 branch is somewhat less casual than the Thong Lor location, with more emphasis on food than bar offerings. NOTE: The dishes sampled in this monthly-rotating Kaiseki menu are also part of the regular à la carte selection. by Chris Michael

Katana Shabu & Japanese Dining

21/38 Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 088 0706 Open daily: 5:30pm-10:30pm www.ssjd-katana.com bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Café Claire

Continental cuisine carried off with a fabulous French flair

hile this French bistroesque Wireless Road venue is perhaps best known for its afternoon tea (served from 2:30pm to 5:30pm), there’s much more to Café Claire than cakes and sandwiches. When it was launched five years ago it proved an instant hit amongst both business customers and Bangkok celebs, and sat amongst the slick but simple décor it’s not difficult to see why. It’s intimate without being crowded, and upscale without being stuffy. I visited the European-style eatery during early evening, when the all-day menu of fine French cuisine, inventive cocktails, and tempting wines becomes far more appealing than a stack of sweet treats. Starting with the Onion Soup (B310) I was instantly transported to a Parisian patio, lapping up every spoonful of the hearty broth. Atop the comforting soup sat a thick, messy layer of croutons and smooth Emmental cheese—served just as overflowing and clumsy as this dish should be. A selection of breads baked at the restaurant’s in-house bakery provided the perfect sponge to the flavoursome stock. bangkok101.com

Of course, if France’s signature starter isn’t quite continental enough for you, there’s always a plate of authentic escargot (that’s cooked land snail) to whet your appetite. This slippery dish of six snails (B380) is served with the prerequisite parsley and garlic butter sauce and—to gastropod first-timers—may just pleasantly surprise you. Onto the main, I dined on the Entrecôte au Roquefort (B1,100), an 8oz sirloin steak served with a creamy cheese sauce, crisp vegetables, and almond potatoes. Cooked to order, the carnivorous plate was an absolute pleasure. Far from a monotonous trudge—as a poor steak often can be—this tender chunk was packed with savoury flavours, perfectly off-set by the smoothness of the Roquefort sauce. The vegetables and potato croquettes made a fine accompaniment, providing a much needed bite between meaty mouthfuls. Though I was struggling for space for dessert, I’m glad I soldiered on as the final course was perhaps the best brownie I’ve ever encountered. In fact, since eating it, I’ve shunned

other, no doubt inferior brownies at other establishments, as I know no other will compare. The Hot Fudge Brownie with Ice Cream (B300) arrived at the table sizzling hot, ready to be drizzled in a rich chocolate sauce. Cameras at the ready for this one, as the server pours a dark syrup over the plate and it hisses and bubbles over the heat. This rectangular piece of dessert heaven, packed with soft cashews, was delectably moist, positively melting on the tongue. Sweet-toothed or not, this one is a must try for all. To complement all that French dining, some French wining is a must. Luckily, Café Claire offers a good selection of house whites, reds, and sparkling. Prices by the glass start from B240, and from B1,100 for a bottle. by Annaliese Watkins

Café Claire

Oriental Residence, 110 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 125 9000 Open daily: 6-10:30am, 11:30am-5:30pm, 6pm-11pm www.oriental-residence.com/cafeclaire SEP T EM BER 2017 | 91

FOOD & DRINK | review

La Dotta

Thong Lor shophouse eatery puts a spell on Bangkok’s ‘pastaphiles’

angkok’s passion for pasta has been slowly simmering away for several years, from luxury spaghetti twirled at gourmet Italian restaurants to a variety of Thai-esque soupy carbonaras at mom and pop eateries. La Dotta Pasta Bar & Store hits the perfect spot in-between, making a definitive foodie statement about how delicious it is to fall in love with one of the world’s most favourite foods; and the city’s pasta-lovers simply cannot get enough. If life is a combination of pasta and magic, as Italian film director Federico Fellini once said, then this Thong Lor shophouse eatery is putting a spell on ‘pastaphiles’. The vibrant coastal-blue décor and small double-level dining space has a breezy vibe whilst being cozy enough to feel special. The upstairs bar serves 5-star style cocktails whilst the high-end service proves that when it comes to Thong Lor, relaxed does not mean forgetting that class, quality, and presentation matter. An art-exhibit-style glass case showcases the softest looking fresh pasta inspiring forks to be at the ready. 92 | SEP T EM BER 2017

Truffle, Sage & Ricotta Cheese DeepFried Balls (B190) are four flavoursome bites that taste less indulgent than they sound. Meanwhile, the Fresh Crab Meat ‘Bruschetta’ (B290), accented with cherry tomatoes and served on homemade Italian bread, is a perfect pre-pasta appetizer— drenched, some might say perhaps a little too generously, in olive oil. Tortelloni 4 Formaggi (B360), features fresh dailymade pasta with artisanal Italian cheeses in 24-month aged Parmigiano-Reggiano fondue. The gorgonzola pings as this dish proves that sometimes in life you can never eat enough cheese; a gastro comfort food. From the Specials menu, Wagyu Bolognese (B590) is a luxury version of a classic, pairing 24-hour slow-cooked beef shoulder and tagliatelle. The meat is as soft as can be, although traditionalists may crave more tomatoes to balance out flavour and texture. By contrast, the 4-hour slow-cooked tomato sauce with rigatoni—utilizing an imported, organic dried pasta this time—creates a perfect Amatriciana (B320), with cured pork cheek and the wonderful salty-

sharpness of Pecorino Romano; quite possibly the winning dish of the three. With decent wines by the glass, the Bomboloni (B190), deep-fried doughnuts filled with Nutella, and the Crostata Al Limone (B210), lemon tart with walnuts and pistachios, give just the right end-of-meal sweetness; desserts that are good without needing to be great. From Il Fumo and Vesper stock, the owners have waved a culinary wand over La Dotta to create lipsmackingly good Italian in modern-day style. The laid-back ambiance attracts less of the privileged Thong Lor set of 10 years ago and appeals more to the start-ups of tomorrow. Does La Dotta serve the best pasta you are ever likely to eat? Probably not, but overall this is a totally al dente pasta bar, serving homemade dishes that are perfectly delicious to eat. by Nadia Willan

La Dotta Pasta Bar & Store

161/6, Thong Lor Soi 9 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm Tel: 02 392 8688 www.facebook.com/ladottapasta bangkok101.com

The Lacquer Pavilion (ผนัง) Most of scholars dare the pavilion back to the late Ayutthaya period, that is the 17th-18th century. Originally there were two separate pavilions in the compound of the Ban kling Monastery in Ayutthaya. They were acquired, with suitable compensations, brought to Suan Pakkad Palace and reassembled as one building by Prince Chumbhot as a gift to his wife on her fiftieth birthday in 1959. The Lacquer Pavilion is unique. Its walls are covered with beautiful floral carving, depicting in gold and black lacquer scenes from the life of Lord Buddha on the upper level and from the Ramayana, the Indian mythology, on the lower level.

House 6 (หัวโขน) This building houses the Khon Museum. Khon is a masked dance, telling stories from the Ramayana, the Indian epic. The collection displays several art forms related to the traditional dance, ranging from full-sized mask of the main heroes and villains in these stories, to puppets, clay figurines and a model battle.

352-354 Sri Ayudhaya Rd., Ratchathewi, Bangkok 10400 THAILAND T. 02 246 1775-6 ext. 229 F. 02 247 2079, 02 245 6369 E. public@suanpakkad.com

www.suanpakkad.com Museum hours: Open Daily 9am-4pm BTS Phaya Thai (exit 4)

FOOD & DRINK | review

Karmakamet Diner

New menu moves away from café staples to embrace fine dining Salmon and Black Sticky Rice (B490), smoky and subtly spiced coconut and black sticky rice blinis topped with salmon tartare, demonstrate the kitchen’s ability to create complex balances of flavour and texture. With chef-suggested wine pairings on the menu, drawing from a cellar filled primarily with Austrian organic wines, the tartare pairs perfectly with the light and fruity 2013 Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben (B360/glass). The Slow Braised Beef Tongue and Seared Scallop (B790) is a winning example of the kitchen’s expertise in meatier dishes. On its own the tongue is extraordinary, a notoriously difficult to cook cut of meat made so tender that it pulls apart with a small nudge of a fork. The addition of the plump scallop adds a hint of sweetness, offering a contrast that makes the beef taste that much richer. If you’re hoping for something even heartier, the Wellington (B1,290) offers a deeply satisfying take on a classic, a 220g beef tenderloin wrapped in flaky pastry and richly marinated mushrooms balanced with the tang of tarragon mustard. The 2008 Heinrich Gabrinza (B2,700/bottle), a complex Austrian red blend, adds an indulgent ucked down a small alley friendly candy floss-topped strawberry finish to both dishes. For dessert tuck into a refreshing behind the Emporium shopping shortcake, Strawberry in the Clouds Salt Baked Naglae Pineapple (B410), centre, Karmakamet Diner (B490). Now, with a newly designed feels a world away from the frenzy of dinner menu, Chef Jutamas Theantae the lightly grilled pineapple and fragrant coconut black sticky rice Sukhumvit Road and the sterile lights is moving away from café staples offering a spin on traditional fruit of shopping malls. Inspired by the and setting out to showcase the Chinese medicinal warehouse once talents of her kitchen through serious and ice-cream. Those hoping to end their meal on a less conventional but owned by the grandfather of founder fine dining. Her dishes, which are equally satisfying note will appreciate and designer Natthorn Rakchana, the meticulously plated and play with the Gorgonzola Tart (B410), combing décor invokes a feeling of nostalgia subtle textures and flavours, reflect salty and sweet with the sharp flavour and intimacy with its mismatched her background in the fine arts and of gorgonzola tempered by milky antique furniture and partitions a larger belief that “perfection lies in macadamia ice-cream. made of vintage industrial perfume the details”. by Micaela Marini Higgs Begin your meal with the bottles—an homage to the brand’s origins selling aromatic products, both complimentary bread bursting with in Chatuchak weekend market and at raisins, walnuts, and figs. Delicate the small shop tucked at the entrance cold appetizers like the Burrata Karmakamet Diner of the restaurant. Squares (B590), cubes of fresh cheese 30/1 Soi Metheenivet Karmakamet’s 2013 expansion surrounded by Parma ham and Tel: 02 262 0700 into dining began with a popular seasonal local fruits, demonstrate the Open daily: 10am-11:30pm brunch selection and its Instagramfreshness of the menu’s offerings. The www.karmakametdiner.com

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over the border | FOOD & DRINK

Bangkok Invasion

A cutthroat competition between 15 renowned chefs will be held in Taiwan this month, and several of Bangkok’s best are in the showdown

The Sühring Brothers

Tim Butler

Fatih Tutak

Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanaka

aipei will host one of the biggest culinary events in Asia this month, with a total of 15 renowned chefs from five major cities in Asia gathering for one mammoth festival of fine food. The four-day International Chefs Summit Asia 2017 (ICSA2017) will take place from September 19 to 22, co-hosted by Favorable Impression Media, with assistance from Sanpellegrino & Acqua Panna, The Landis Taipei Hotel, and the Mandarin Oriental, Taipei. The ‘Bangkok Invaders’ contingent combines the star-power of twin chefs Thomas and Mathias Sühring from Sühring, Tim Butler from Eat Me, Fatih Tutak from the Dining Room at the House on Sathorn, and Thitid Tassanaka (Chef Ton) from Le Du. They’ll be matching wits, woks, and whisks with other top Asian kitchen masters, including: Zaiyu Hasegawa from Den (Japan); Hiroyasu Kawate from Florilége (Japan); Jason Tan from Corner House (Singapore); and Kirk Westaway from JAAN (Singapore). bangkok101.com

Also on hand will be Taiwan’s own Richie Lin, Long Xiong and Kai Ward from Mume Restaurant, Ryohel Hieda from Nihonryori RyuGin, and Clement Pellerin from Paris 1930. And last but not least is Margarita Forés from Cibo (Philippines), who was selected as the best female chef in Asia in 2016. All the chefs participating in ICSA2017 are acclaimed talents, and many have had their dining venues appear in the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list and/or have been recognized by Michelin Guide’s star award. Apart from eight “four hands” or “six hands” chef dinner banquets held over the course of the four-day summit—at both The Landis Taipei Hotel, and the Mandarin Oriental, Taipei—several of the invited chefs will showcase their culinary creativity in the form of lectures. It’s a not-to-be-missed event for fine dining lovers. www.icsaworld.com SEP T EM BER 2017 | 95

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Chef Gianni Favro

A traditional host serving up modern Italian with tantalizing flair

magine dining at a fine Italian table, where the host greets you like an old friend, serving up gourmet specials that he knows you will love, regardless of whether they are still on the menu or not; a restaurant with an ambiance reminiscent of how a meal out used to be. Welcome to the wonderful world of Gianni Ristorante; an iconic Italian institution in Bangkok, whose chef and patron, Gianni Favro has been wining 96 | SEP T EM BER 2017

and dining those in the know for over 20 years. Like a fine vintage, this restaurant only gets better with age. Reputation aside, this homage to the fine flavours of Italy has never lost its place amongst the city’s appetite for dining out. On the contrary, it is enjoying something of a revival, evermore relished for being the rarefied restaurant species it is. Born in the city of Pordenone, close to Venice, Gianni’s passion was

to travel. After working in his dad’s restaurant, at the age of 17, he realized here was something he liked, was good at and that could be his meal ticket to take him around the world. Visiting Thailand over a quarter of a century ago, after a particularly cold winter season working in Sardinia, Gianni became involved in a food promotion event in Bangkok. After working in Singapore, Hong Kong, and Jakarta, he instantly felt at home in Thailand. bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

“From day one everyone said I would need to adjust the cuisine for Thai diners,” he remembers. “Mine was the first fine-dining restaurant in Bangkok and keeping that authenticity is better in the long term. Many restaurants come and go and few last over two decades. My cooking philosophy has always been that you can always do a better dish and that you can always improve. The first priority is to get the best ingredients, and the second priority is not to ruin them.” Whilst Gianni welcomes the evolution of Bangkok’s dining scene, and is perhaps surprisingly uncritical of what must sometimes seem like foodie fads to this kitchen maestro, this is a restaurant that is not jumping on the rollercoaster ride of dining trends; a thrill that whilst exhilarating can sometimes leave diners on a culinary loop-the-loop to nowhere. Instead, here is a grand steam train, majestically ploughing through Bangkok’s fine-dining landscape as delectable dishes come into view. All that is left to do is to sit back and enjoy the experience; after all it is the journey not the destination that counts. bangkok101.com

“For me, dining is all about the food,” he goes on to say. “The main thing is the food. A lot of places focus on the décor only, but if I want fancy designs I can go to a museum. I understand it is about a need to catch people’s attention, but that is not for me. Of course you need to develop and introduce new ingredients and techniques, but only as long as this enhances the food. There are some chefs who can cook, say, 10 dishes really well, but you need to know the basics of cooking and how to create balance.” Gianni recounts stories of Italian nuns in Bangkok raising rabbits and growing herbs for him and how he cooks his divine tomato sauce in the oven, not on the hob, to preserve the rich and sweet flavours of Italian tomatoes grown in North Thailand. He speaks of how he still feels excited being in the kitchen, perfecting his art. For all his traditionalist sentiment, borne out of a love of real Italian foods, the cuisine at Gianni is deliciously inventive. This is modern Italian served up with tantalizing flair, without a pizza crust in sight. Raw scampi with olive oil powder and a horseradish mayonnaise sets

the tone of elegant delicacy, whilst sous vide octopus with a potato and parsley cream is a hearty yet gentle dish. A sea scallop is perfectly cooked with a cream sauce made from fennel and saffron sourced from someone Gianni knows, adding an artisanal feel. The paccheri pasta, the finest from Italy, is exquisite as a small dish with homemade tomato sauce, burrata cheese, and basil. The coastal spring lamb continues to reveal how Italian cuisine is so much more than stodgy plates of carbs. A panna cotta dessert with mango and passion fruit granite, along with a quirky fruit tree with homemade chocolates, proves good food can be playful without losing the essence of traditional flavours. The award-winning menu of purely Italian wines, bar a couple of champagnes, is simply incredible. There is a lovely sense of pleasure without the guilt of indulgence that dining at Gianni inspires. Putting his name to his restaurant is more than Italian tradition, it is an expression of an accomplished chef and a bona fide culinary connoisseur who loves great food and wants to share it with his customer-friends. interview by Nadia Willan SEP T EM BER 2017 | 97

FOOD & DRINK | street eats

Nittaya Curry Paste

hen the neighbourhood around Khaosan Road was mellow, in the days before it became a super-popular backpacker hangout, it was one of Bangkok’s main shopping areas, selling student uniforms, all kinds of fabrics (from high-price lace to funky velvet), classy and custom-made shoes, wedding gowns, souvenirs for traditional festivals, and many types of food specialties. It was full of local life and all kinds of local people, and as a child I loved visiting with my mother to shop and experience the bustle. These days, the area is mainly known for its cheap guesthouses and backpacker-oriented bars. But my main interest in the area continues to be as a place for food, specifically cooking ingredients. And this is what draws me to Namprik Nittaya Shop. It is the place for pastes, the key component of many curry dishes. Namprik Nittaya has been famous for its homemade curry pastes for more than four decades. For years, when my family didn’t have enough time to make the curry pastes for big feasts, my mother would go to Namprik Nittaya to get them. It has since become a tradition for me—before taking a

eat like

Nym

Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 98 | SEP T EM BER 2017

long journey—to buy paste and other ingredients from the shop to carry with me in my suitcase. Every time I step inside the store—spanning two contiguous shop houses—I swoon, like a kid in a candy shop. The smells of roasted chili, lime, and lightly fried salted fish greet me in the showroom. I wend my way through the crowded aisles, and past the cluttered shelves, towards the far end where the curry pastes are stored. There I deeply inhale their aromas. The pastes are piled up, like little colourful hills, in separate containers—whether green curry, red curry, or kaeng taipla curry (a Southern style). I usually buy several different kinds, perhaps about 250 grams of each, but my favourite is nam prik phao, which I add to my tom yum soup recipe for an extra punch of taste and aroma. Sometimes I also use it as a dip for crispy crackers and chips. Nam prik phao is different than other curries because it can be eaten without cooking. It also has a little touch of sweetness and spice, and a dense texture from its mixture of dried shrimps, red shallots, garlic, and chilies. Nittaya also has packages of dehydrated herbs, which are very convenient. Kaffir lime leaves, sliced

lemongrasses, galangas, and dried red chilies are packed together to make tom yum or tom kha kai, or sold separately. I love to have those herbs in a variety of sizes. I can use them in my cooking or give them as gifts to friends who love cooking Thai food, but can’t find fresh ingredients where they live. Namprik Nittaya is also very inexpensive, with prices far more modest than the modern supermarkets. During my many trips there over the years I have had lovely conservations with other customers who have been drawn there for the same reasons. And if I’m particularly lucky on these trips, and one of the ladies behind the cashier’s counter is not too busy, I will ask her about different recipes and find out about other cooking ingredients too. It means more new aromas in my kitchen, and more goodies for my friends abroad. Address: The words “Namprik Nittaya” are written in green Thai characters on the front of the shop, which sits close to the corner of Soi Rambutri and Chakraponse Rd, right across from Bank of Krungsri Ayutthaya. The shop is open every day from 9am till 6:30pm. bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | listings

CHINESE Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm

China Table

There’s more than meets the eye at this contemporary Cantonese restaurant. Beyond the traditional plates, diners can discover delicious Asian fare with a decidedly creative flair.

3F, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 89 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 302 3333 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm www.radissonblu.com

33/30, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 094 970 8599 Open daily: 6pm–midnight www.cordonnierbkk.com

Shang Palace

The interior is elegant, but more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts. 3F, Shangri-La Hotel 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun, 11am-3pm www.shangri-la.com

FRENCH Brasserie Cordonnier

Serving exquisite Gallic favourites— from French onion soup to beef bourguignon—this high ceilinged eatery brings hearty and savoury French fare to Bangkok’s hungry hordes.

GREEK

Avra

Avra Greek Restaurant

Rising from the mid-Sukhumvit culinary clutter like a Parthenon of Hellenic delights, this charming eatery offers an impressively expansive menu that includes all the perennial favourites prepared with thoughtful touches. GF, Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit 1 Soi Daengudom, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open: Tue-Fri, noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm,

ENOTECA Inimitable Italian the only real italian gourmet restaurant

Sukhumvit Soi 27, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok T. 02 258 4386 | F. 02259 9175

Crostini di Pate’ di Fegato di Piccione al Tartufo 10 0 | SEP T EM BER 2017

www.enotecabangkok.com bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK Sat-Sun, noon-11pm, Mon, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 258 2877 www.avrabkk.com

MF, Siam Paragon Mall, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 10am-10pm Tel: 02 129 4840 www.facebook.com/bombyxbyjimthompson

INTERNATIONAL Blue Parrot

This family-friendly, but still quirky and hip resto provides a comfortable dining spot for adults and children alike. The young ones will love the swimming pool access, the kid’s play area, and the mini-picnic tables, while adults will appreciate the Euro-themed dishes and Cuban-inspired cocktails. 50, Sathorn Soi 10 Open: Wed-Mon, 11:30am-11pm Tel: 02 235 4822 www.facebook.com/blueparrotbangkok

Bombyx

This is the flagship eatery of Thailand’s iconic Jim Thompson brand (makers of fine silk products), and the eye-popping interior features the work of abstract artist Ithipol Thangchalok. Similarly, the menu shows impressive culinary artistry at work.

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Embassy Room

Ultra-modern and sophisticated, this restaurant features an all-day menu of contemporary European cuisine with a definite Asian flair. 9F, The Park Hyatt Bangkok Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 6am-10:30am, noon-2pm, 6pm-10pm www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Red Oven Bunker

Bunker

From the outside, this three-storey concrete building may look rustic and unfinished; inside however you’ll find contemporary American cuisine with a heavy New York influence being served up. The top-notch ingredients and excellence in execution are really what mark the dishes here. 118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com

Styled as a World Food Market, this 7th-floor all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. On weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet. 7F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

The Kitchen Table

This popular dining spot is also a great place for brunch, when it becomes a sensory feast that tempts diners with

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FOOD & DRINK | listings innovative cocktails alongside creative culinary offerings. In fact, the ‘W Does Brunch’ concept is fast becoming a feature at W properties worldwide. 2F, W Bangkok 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 Open daily: 6:30am-10:30am, 12pm-6pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.whotelbangkok.com

Wild & Co.

Arguably the most unique restaurant to open so far in 2017, takes the Thai taste for “forest food” and fuses it with the Western yen for grilled meats. In this case the meat happens to be wild or farmed game, for the most part.

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33/1 Soi Farm Wattana, Phra Khanong Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.wildnco.com

Zeta Café

Lunch and dinner buffets, poolside or in the modern air-conditioned interior, are the order of the day here. And with a rotating list of daily dinner specials— from Mexican, to Japanese, to Chinese, and more—the offerings are constantly fresh and ever changing. 8F, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 1, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 686 4888 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.holidayinn.com/hisukhumvit

ITALIAN Biscotti

Serving up authentic Italian fare since the late ‘90s, this staple on the lunchtime roster for suits and their business partners has grown casual enough to warrant a visit by anyone on any day of the week.

Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com

Enoteca

Enoteca Italiana Bangkok

Rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, this place is traditional Italian to the bone. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable a la carte and degustation menus to explore. As authentic as it is delicious. 39, Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 258 4386 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.enotecabangkok.com

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listings | FOOD & DRINK

La Bottega di Luca

This elegant Italian eatery, overseen by the ever charming Luca Appino, serves over 15 different kinds of pasta and an array of Italian specialties you won’t find on many other menus. 2F, Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 204 1731 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm, Mon, 5pm-11pm www.labottega.name/restaurant

JAPANESE Benihana

At the centre of every table is a hot grill, where a chef cooks for you, stimulating appetites with a deft and close-range slicing of onions, zucchini, shrimp, pork, steak—even the fried rice. Avani Atrium Bangkok, 1880 Petchaburi Rd. Tel: 02 718 2023 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.avanihotels.com

‘Atarachi’ brunch (meaning new or fresh). It highlights all the best Japanese delicacies you could possibly desire, such as starters, sushi, sashimi, noodles, teppanyaki, sukiyaki, tempura, and many more. Plaza Athénée Bangkok Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 650 8800 www.plazaatheneebangkok.com

STEAK & BURGER Babette’s The Steakhouse

An intimate 1920s Chicago style eatery at award-winning Hotel Muse Bangkok, serving up the best steak in Bangkok, set against a glittering city backdrop. Hotel Muse, 55/555 Langsuan Rd. Tel: 02 630 4000 Open: Lunch 12pm-3pm, Dinner 6pm-12am www.babettesbangkok.com

Utage

This five star hotel’s F&B outlet offers a one-of-a-kind dining experience with their

THAI Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant (and cooking school) sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Madame Shawn

Meat & Bones

Born in Thailand, Madame Shawn currently has six popular eateries in and around Paris, but this is her first Bangkok restaurant. Expect authentic Thai delicacies with innovative European twists—all at very affordable prices. 127, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 3 Alley Open daily: 11am-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 258 1205 www.mmeshawn.com/bbk

Meat & Bones

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

Ten-Sui

High-end Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok, but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience than you’ll find at this elegant eatery. 33, Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 088 540 1001 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm www.tensui.co

The Commons, Thong Lor 17 Tel: 081 933 7143 Open: Mon-Thu, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm, Fri-Sun, 11:30am-10:30pm facebook.com/meatandbonesbangkok

Nothing represents the very soul of stateside cooking than a smokehouse BBQ, and here the slow-smoked ribs are as traditional as it gets. The name says it all.

With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, diners at this elegant, innovate eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an

www.labottega.name T. +6622041731 labottegabangkok

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bottegabkk

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FOOD & DRINK | listings incredible culinary adventure down a road-less-travelled landscape. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-midnight Tel: 02 162 9000 www.kempinski.com/bangkok

Sri Trat

This beautifully remodeled houseturnedrestaurant offers a taste of Eastern Thailand, a cuisine noted for its abundance of seafood, and the use of fresh fruits and rare herbs. 90, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Tel: 02 088 0968 Open: Wed-Mon, noon-11pm www.facebook.com/sritrat

Steve Café and Cuisine

Given the number of mass-produced seafood gardens and tourist coffee shops exploiting the romance of the Chao Phraya river, what’s remarkable about this restaurant is that they come pretty close to authentic homemade. 68 Sri Ayuthaya Rd. Tel: 02 281 0915, 02 280 2989

Open daily: 11am-11pm www.stevecafeandcuisine.com

CAFÉ

5F, Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd Tel: 02 160 5610 Open: Sun-Thu, 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat, 11am-midnight www.facebook.com/MinibarRoyale

D’Ark

The stylish interior and furnishings embrace a coffee-coloured palette, offset by abstract artwork and tasteful lighting. The coffee machines are manned by world champion baristas and roasters, and the kitchen whips up some amazing Mediterranean-inspired fare (3 locations). EmQuartier, Tel: 02 003 6013 Piman 49, Tel: 02 662 7900 Central Festival EastVille www.darkoffee.com

Dean & Deluca

This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients. GF, MahaNakhon Cube, Tel: 02 023 1616 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, Tel: 0 2261 0464 1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd, Tel: 02 108 2200 www.deandeluca.com/thailand

Minibar Café

A modified version of the modern New York bistro whose pleasant ambiance is staked on good food, laughter, conversation, and music, because these elements help make meals memorable.

Not Just Another Cup

This cozy cafe, suitable for early birds, serves a variety of brunch menus, while the drink menu covers everything from coffee to cold-pressed juices and infused water. 75/1, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 635 3464 Open daily: 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup

VEGETARIAN Broccoli Revolution

This veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Rd (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 Facebook: Broccoli Revolution

Spicy Wagyu Tartare “LAAB”

LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com 10 4 | SEP T EM BER 2017

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Zoom Sky Bar and Sky Lounge are equal parts scenic and swanky

| NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE zoom to the top

With a rash of new restaurant openings in the area around Naradhiwas, Yenakart, and Chan roads, this area is definitely undergoing a surge in popularity—which will no doubt lead to a surge in the popularity of ZOOM SKY BAR & RESTAURANT located on the 38th floor of the ANANTARA SATHORN BANGKOK hotel (36 Naradhiwas-Rajanagarindra Rd). And while this rooftop bar has been open for a while, earlier this year they unveiled their new ZOOM SKY LOUNGE, an uber-swanky urban den with expansive windows, perfect for taking in the sprawling metropolis below. Kick back to the sounds of the resident jazz band (three nights a week), and savour gastronomic delights, sophisticated cocktails, and fine wines. bangkok-sathorn.anantara.com/zoom-sky-bar-restaurant

saturday fun from noon till night If the incredible river views aren’t enough of a reason to visit ATTITUDE, the 26th floor rooftop restaurant and lounge at the AVANI RIVERSIDE BANGKOK HOTEL, their new monthly Saturday promotions should do the trick. On the first Saturday of every month music lovers and party people can check out GROOVETOP, a DJ event running from 7pm till midnight (launching September 2nd). In addition, every second and fourth Saturday of the month enjoy a chillaxing afternoon brunch event with some twists, including freeflow beverage packages, live food stations, a DIY Bloody Mary bar, and more. The next ones are scheduled for September 9th and 23rd, and hotel staycation packages for these weekends start at B9,500. Call 02 431 9100 for bookings. www.minorhotels.com/en/avani/riverside-bangkok

check out the new check in When Bangkok’s venerable nightlife institution CHECK INN 99 was forced to shut its doors last year, a piece of the city’s history disappeared along with it. But this month will see the re-opening the beloved bar on Sukhumvit Soi 33 (next to the Lotus Hotel). The new multistorey venue is a full function bar and restaurant with its own theatre space capable of seating over 200 persons. Owner CHRIS CATTO-SMITH says we can expect the same good times, nightly entertainment, and weekend jazz and blues jams that made the old Check Inn 99 such a cherished favourite. www.checkinn99.com

disco down at dusit To celebrate the DUSIT THANI BANGKOK hotel's 48th anniversary, a MASQUERADE DISCO PARTY, dedicated to its late 70s era pub and discotheque, will be held on the last Friday night of the month, from now until the end of 2017 (Sept. 29th this month). Entitled ‘Return to Bubbles’ this retro-centric event promises guests—those old enough to remember, anyway—a glittery, booty-shaking fun-filled trip down memory lane. Keep in mind that time is running out to visit this iconic property, as the entire building is scheduled for demolition, followed by a complete reconstruction, beginning in April of 2018 (see pg. 50). www.dusit.com/48anniversary

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NIGHTLIFE | review

Black Cabin

Good booze, good blues, at one of Bangkok’s coolest live music venues

angkok’s live music scene has come under fire recently. Rising rent prices and more frequent crackdowns by the authorities on bars operating after curfew have led to the closure of many long-standing institutions. Since last January, Moose, Dark Bar, Overground, and the Alchemist— all stages for up-and-coming, underground, and otherwise interesting artists—have shuttered. But it’s not all doom and gloom. Despite the less than favourable milieu for live music venues nowadays, Black Cabin has arrived to fill the void. Black Cabin is an extension of Wild & Co., the meat and game specialist on Rama IV’s Soi Farmwattana. If you’ve invested yourself in the city’s nightlife, this unusual soi name probably sounds familiar to you. The irony of the situation is that Black Cabin occupies part of the house that used to be a different live music venue, the creative sanctuary that was Stu-fe, which closed down a couple of years ago. To be clear, though, Black Cabin is its own venue. Screaming “Midwest 108 | SEP T EM BER 2017

USA” and “Monocle Guide” at equal volumes, it’s a hipster’s idea of a mancave: a framed cross-stitch of brown bears, stuffed and mounted birds, carved wooden trout, but then also a coin-op Pandora’s Box, murals of goats in men’s suits, and a bar illuminated by red safelights. Not to mention really tasty bar snacks that include scallop larb and, yes, cheese sticks. It might seem eclectic at first glance, but a lot of attention went into the details here. That includes the drinks. As is de rigueur, signature cocktails play off the classics. Purple Haze (B280) takes cues from the Aviation— specifically in the use of crème de violet and locally made Kristall gin— but almost comes across like a whisky sour, owing to the lime juice and egg white. Wild Men (B320), meanwhile, is a souped-up El Presidente made with Irish whisky, cherry Heering, and chocolate bitters. Smoky, spicy, and cinnamon-like in aroma—it’s an absolute treat. Those leery of the spirit-forward movement happening around town can venture into its

territory with the Black Reindeer (B280). It’s a spin on the Hanky Panky, trading Kristall vodka for gin, with Massenez Basilic and good Italian vermouth softening the edges. Black Cabin also sells a dozen different Thai-produced beers from the likes of Sandport, Lamzing, and Happy New Beer (B220 each), alongside your favourite booze and mixers (such as: B190 for Sangsom, B300 for Hendrick’s, and B590 for Lagavulin 16 Years). Now the highlight: every week, live acts run the gamut from folk to funk to experimental electronica to jazz and blues—all high-quality, all interesting, all playing in this fantastic little house hidden in Khlong Toey. Local stalwarts Yellow Fang and the Sangsom Massacre have even played here. As a matter of fact, there’s no other place like this. by Craig Sauers

Black Cabin

33/1 Soi Farmwattana, Rama IV Rd. Open: Tues-Sun, 5:30pm-1am Tel: 06 1515 6989 www.blackcabinbar.com bangkok101.com

review | NIGHTLIFE

Scarlett Wine Bar

New cocktails prove there’s more to Scarlett than reds and whites

carlett Wine Bar & Restaurant has always seemed to be the kind of place you would prefer everyone not know about. Between a novel-sized wine list, mouth-watering bistro-style fare, and a 160 sq.m balcony presenting legitimately sweeping views of Silom, Sathorn, and the Chao Phraya River, you would be forgiven for wanting to safeguard your “secret” rather than let it slip to all your friends. Word has spread, though. Within the city’s circle of writers, Scarlett is often cited as one of the more reliable venues around, and the number of regulars you’ll find on any given night suggests that many residents feel the same way. With such a good thing going, management has only ever had to implement subtle changes to the script to keep up with trends. To that end, Scarlett has recently gone all-in on craft cocktails and spirits, the craze currently reshaping nightlife in Bangkok. “We formerly took a very classic approach [to cocktails],” says General Manager Guillaume Places. Now, explains the sociable French bangkok101.com

national, all the bartenders have been encouraged to add their own flair to time-tested drinks. They bought a dehydrator and have been playing around with dehydrated fruit, for one, but more remarkably they have begun to infuse their own spirits—gin, tequila, rum, Calvados even—to add depth to their signature cocktails. Gin infused with vanilla bean and roasted red pepper gives the Negroni #1 (B320) a sweetness that plays off the floral aspects of the base spirit, as well as a vegetal note that complements the Campari. The gin neat or on the rocks would be an excellent choice, believe it or not, but the Negroni, which is barrel-aged for at least three weeks and has a texture so much like velvet that it almost sticks to the roof of your mouth, comes highly recommended. White rum serves as the canvas for herbs and spices traditionally used in tom yum. The spicy infusion goes into the Citrus Rum Cooler (B320), a potent piece of work uniting orange and ginger in the base with chillies, Kaffir lime leaf, and lemongrass in the infusion.

The Humadorita (B320) features not just house-infused tequila, but also dehydrated pineapple with scorched brown sugar. The latter leaves its smokiness on the nose, balancing the drink’s sweet and sour notes. Likewise, the Breakfast Martini (B320), a spin on an old Savoy recipe that combines Tanqueray, Cointreau, and orange marmalade, employs singed dehydrated orange to level its sweet elements. Both can be refreshing pre-dinner drinks or partners to some of the seafood on the menu, such as Le Crabe Royal d’Alaska (B580), a beautifully plated king crab salad featuring mango and avocado. With these cocktails, the ever so unpretentious Scarlett has given us good reason to come back, again, and again. by Craig Sauers

Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant

37F, Pullman Hotel Bangkok G Open daily: 6pm-late Tel: 096 860 7990 www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk SEP T EM BER 2017 | 109

NIGHTLIFE | listings

BAR 3 Bears Craft Brewery

This craft beer bar is a collaborative project by an architect, a sound engineer, and a renowned local chef. Alongside the great locally made su ds, diners can order brewpub favorites like fried chicken wings and gourmet snacks such as piquant tempura-fried calamari. 1154, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Open: Mon-Fri, 4pm-midnight Sat-Sun 11am-midnight Tel: 095 456 8298 facebook.com/3bearscb

1F, Gaysorn Village 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 094 647 8888 Open daily: 11am-midnight facebook.com/pg/duke.gaysorn

Flava Bar & Lounge

Taking its visual cue from the private wet bar of British fashion designer Paul Smith, this fun and funky hangout also boasts Bangkok’s “longest happy hour”, which stretches from 5pm till midnight, every day of the week. 2F, Dream Hotel, 10, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Open daily: 5pm-midnight Tel: 02 254 8500 www.dreamhotels.com/bangkok

Inblu Bar

Located on the hotel’s lobby level, this stylish drink spot offers an extensive selection of beers, whiskies, cocktails, and wines, plus tasty nibbles and great live music seven days a week. Pullman Bangkok Grande Sukhumvit 30, Sukhumvit Soi 21 Tel: 02 204 4000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.pullmanbankokgrandesukhumvit.com

Gypsy Spells Bar

A themed bar, focusing on fortune telling and Thai legends, offers a unique cocktail menu, as well as live gypsy jazz music on Friday nights and blues on Saturdays. 2, Sukhumvit Soi 29 Tel: 02 662 3060 Open daily: 5:30pm to midnight www.mahanaga.com

J. Boroski Mixology Duke

Duke

Although it’s in a mall, this high-end whisky and cigar lounge—full to bursting with paintings and sculptures—feels more like a SoHo warehouse loft space owned by an eccentric millionaire.

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A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com

Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar

A world-class wine bar that isn’t just all about wine. Offering 40 wines to choose from as well as some exciting options for the non-wine-inclined, while refined, rustic European cuisine is served up tapas-style for social dining. 2F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1133 Open daily: 11am-midnight www.riedelwinebarbkk.com

The Bar

Featuring a black and gold colour theme, and both indoor and outdoor seating, this

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listings | NIGHTLIFE 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated, quiet, and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 7am-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Vogue Lounge

This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and former chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks. MahaNakhon Cube Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 001 0697 Open daily: 10am-late www.voguelounge.com

ROOFTOP SKY BAR

amBar

CRU Champagne Bar

This high altitude hot spot is own by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com

Sky On 20

At this stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok. Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok

CLUB

amBar

8 on Eleven

Char

Cé La Vi

Located on the 8th floor rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, this pool bar offers an inviting and relaxed lounge atmosphere. 8F, Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi15 Tel: 02 309 3288 Open daily: 4pm-midnight www.ambarbangkok.com

Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok bangkok101.com

A gastro bar with a modern industrial twist and a 2nd floor dance area, this nightlife venue offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes with a modern twist. 14, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 093 421 1991 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/8oneleven

One of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, this is a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view. 39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com SEP T EM BER 2017 | 111

NIGHTLIFE | listings foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com Mixx Discotheque

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House— decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade, 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

PUBS Mulligan’s Irish Bar

A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined

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Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com

The Australian

A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. 37, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 0800 Open daily: 9am-late www.theaustralianbkk.com

LIVE MUSIC Brown Sugar

Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime tunes draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378

The Zuk Bar

The ideal place for aperitifs or after dinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view, and enjoy live jazz by Coco Rouzier, Wednesday to Saturday nights and during the weekly Sunday brunch. The Sukhothai Bangkok,13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sukhothai.com

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Swarovskiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Urban Fantasy Collection, Fall/Winter 2017/18

| LIFESTYLE

LIFE+STYLE it’s all about that bling! Cities of contrasts and excitement act as the inspiration for SWAROVSKI’s Fall/Winter 2017/18 Urban Fantasy Collection. For Fall, contemporary architecture weaves into organic lines that are accented by soft neutral shades and soothing blues and greens. Digital tints, pixel patterns, and metallic silver tones turn into high-shine pieces in the Winter Collection, while the Holiday Collection dials up the glamour with an elegant focus on gold, emerald, and silver tones. Swarovski’s effortless style has also taken an innovative new turn with the game-changing Remix Collection featuring invisible magnetic closures. Available at Swarovski outlets in Siam Paragon, Gaysorn Village, and most Central Group department stores, or visit the main Swarovski Shop Silom boutique (2F, Silom Complex Building). www.swarovski.com

fitness junkies, take note As part of the RENT V38 apartment complex located in the heart of Chatuchak, V38 FITNESS offers a range of facilities and equipment, along with some of the best trainers in Bangkok, to help you achieve your fitness goals. From a state-of-the-art altitude room (the highest simulated altitude training system in Southeast Asia, in fact) and endless pool system, to Muay Thai and kids’ yoga classes, this unique training facility is designed for both discerning athletes and beginners alike. They’re open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 9pm, and Sundays from 11am to 8pm, with both personal and group training classes being held regularly. www.v38fitness.com

danish design house has landed World-renowned Danish furniture design company REPUBLIC OF FRITZ HANSEN has finally opened its doors in Bangkok. Nestled in the quiet alley of Soi Somkid, the showroom doubles as the world’s first HOUSE OF FRITZ HANSEN concept store. Founded in Denmark in 1872, the company has a long history of collaborating with leading international designers—including Arne Jacobsen, Jaime Hayon, and Cecilie Manz, to name but a few. Both classic and contemporary collections are on display at the new showroom, but be prepared to splurge… these pieces don’t come cheap! www.fritzhansen.com

street art takes to the sky(walk) Two years and 300 million baht later, the skywalk above the Pathumwan intersection that links the BACC, Siam Discovery, MBK, and National Stadium BTS station reopened last month—providing easy access to some of Siam’s best attractions while doubling as Bangkok’s latest art installation. Led by SIAM SYNERGY, the skywalk features numerous “lily pads” which have been covered in art by 13 of Thailand’s best street artists, namely: Yuree Kensaku, P7 (Peerapong Limthamrong), Jackkrit Anantakul, Rukkit Kuanhawate, Maythee Noijinda, TRK, Pruch Sintunava, Peap Tarr, Lisa Mam, Mauy, JECK BKK, Floyd and Channarong Klugiad. Visit their website before September 4th and take a shot at naming the new skywalk and you could stand a chance of winning the B100,000 prize. www.siam-synergy.com

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SEP T EM BER 2017 | 115

LIFESTYLE | spa products

From Fabulous Fragrances to Calming Candles Founded in 2010, THLOS stands for ‘The Herbal Lore of Siam’. Their products are mainly made of local herbs and are developed by a Thai doctor who is an expert in Thai herbs and alternative medicine. This award-winning brand provides head-to-toe body-beautiful products, including shampoo, conditioner, skin care, and cleansers.

PangNum Anti-Itch Lotion

PangNum has been around for many years. In the old days, Thai people applied it on their skin to refresh the face and body. THLOS’s antiitch lotion contains PangNum as well as essential ingredients such as extracts of the clerodendrum inerme leaf, clinacanthus nutans leaf, and artocarpus lakoocha heartwood extract (all Thai herbs). These are all effective at healing skin rashes caused by insect bites or allergies. This lotion is priced at B750 and is available at The 66 Cottage on Sukhumvit Soi 66. www.thlos.com

Spa product brand Organika is run by Thai actressturned-entrepreneur, Sririta Jensen. With a strong belief in the extraordinary power of aroma, she and her team explore thousands of organic ingredients and handpick the most unique blends to create a luxurious journey through the world of scents. Only top-quality ingredients are used to maintain the products’ natural base, and all items are strictly free of toxins and any contaminated chemical residues that may cause harm.

Pure Aroma Massage Candle

Made with soy bean wax and a pure cotton wick, combined with calming essential oils, vitamin E, Shea butter, magnolia extract, and organic jojoba oil, this candle is perfect for both your home and your skin. At just the right temperature, this candle turns into a massage oil which promotes blood flow, relieves muscle stress and fatigue, and provides anti-aging agents, keeping your skin looking young and vibrant. The Pure Aroma Massage Candle is priced at B1,950 for the small size (which will burn for 48 hours), B2,950 for medium size (burns for 96 hours), and B4,250 for the large size (burns for 168 hours). This product is available at the Organika Flagship Store, and Paragon Shop. www.organikahouse.com

Inspired by his journeys, Pryn Lomros—founder of Pryn Parfum—uses unconventional ingredients to portray stories from different journeys in each scent. His products provide a blend of physique and sentiment as well as a mixture of heritage, tradition, culture, and art; reflecting a distinctive characteristic of the passage and a reminiscence of peculiar odyssey. Most of the brand’s scents are unisex, and designed to suit anyone, regardless of age or gender.

Ayothaya Perfume

During the glory days of the Siamese Kingdom of Ayutthaya (also known as Ayothaya), it was one of the world’s largest centres of global commerce. It attracted foreign traders from all different regions and was then described as one of the wealthiest cities in the East. It also became the centre of Buddhism and displayed a vast number of grand temples. Ayothaya perfume was inspired by this glorious time of prosperity, using sacred incense, spices, wood, and flowers, to recreate an impression of affluence. This product is priced at B1,490 and is available at B.O.B. Pop-up Store, Greyhound Original, O.D.S., Onion, Paragon Department Store, Pur.Suit, Q Stadium, The Selected, and Twice A Week. www.prynparfum.com

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spa review | LIFESTYLE

Away Spa

estled on the 6th floor of the beautifully bold W Bangkok, sits the ultra-luxurious Away Spa—where serene lighting, tranquil background music, and a soothing colour palette combine to make guests feel instantly relaxed from the moment they walk through the door. I arrived for the 120-minute Illuminate treatment, which is priced at B3,799 per person, or B6,999 per couple, and combines a 30-minute Pearl Body Scrub, 30-minute Pearl Body Wrap, and 60-minute Pearl Body Oil Massage. The use of 100 percent natural pearl leaves your skin feeling fresh, hydrated, and nourished—which is exactly what I needed to reinvigorate my skin during this gloomy rainy season. The staff were warm, welcoming, and exuded professionalism. I was quickly welcomed with a refreshing lime mocktail and cool towel before a consultant sat by my side to ask all the crucial questions, including my preferred pressure (soft, medium, or hard), target areas, medical conditions, and what colour room I’d like. The last question was a first for me. The consultant calmly explained that each room is fitted with a bangkok101.com

glowing bed that can change colour to suit your mood: green reflects a calm and peaceful demeanour, red enhances body energy, purple radiates happiness, while pink signals romance and sensuality. I chose green for an enhanced relaxing experience. The spa itself is divided into four distinct zones. The first being the ‘Welcome and Decompress’ zone, where you’re met by the consultants and check in and out for your treatments. Once checked in and changed, Khun Pudthida, escorted me to the ‘Delight’ zone which is comprised of a series of treatment rooms, each suite uniting soothing natural tones—from the walls to the treatment bed linens. She then led me to the ‘Detox’ zone, which consists of separate male and female wet facilities, including a sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi. The unisex Hammam (Turkish bath) adds to the list of rejuvenating offerings. Unfortunately for me, I had forgotten my bathing suit. Once back in my green room, Khun Pudthida began my treatment with the Pearl Body Scrub, gently massaging the scrub in circular motions onto my skin all the while ensuring that

the pressure, room temperature, and music was to my liking. After a quick shower, the therapist began with the Pearl Body Wrap. The experience of being wrapped in layers of thick plastic can be claustrophobic at times, but the result was well worth it—leaving my skin feeling fresh and looking radiant. What felt like only minutes, the hourlong massage sent me into a deep state of relaxation as the Khun Puthida’s experienced hands work wonders on my entire body, eliminating all traces of stress and tension. After my treatment, I was led to the fourth and final ‘Refuel’ zone, featuring changing rooms with showers, as well as nourishing snacks and drinks that are available through in-room dining. The 120 minutes had passed in the blink of an eye and I said good bye to Khun Puthida, feeling re-energized and ready to face the Bangkok madness once again. by Kelly Harvey

Away Spa

W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4160 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.whotelbangkok.com SEP T EM BER 2017 | 117

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

id you know that Bangkok now has an edible insect fine dining restaurant? Well it does, and the eatery, named Insects in the Backyard—a nod to the controversial 2010 Thai film of the same name directed by Tanwarin Sukkhapisit—is located in the popular ChangChui art hub, on the west side of the Chao Phraya River (in Thonburi). So what’s on the menu? How about: Crab and giant water beetle ravioli with turmeric saffron sauce; Red ant marinated beef short rib steak; and Lobster grasshopper bisque risotto with seafood and sundried tomatoes. In short, the kitchen here is putting out international fine dining dishes to rival most restaurants in Bangkok. Of course, chomping on beetles, crickets, worms, and other multi-legged animals is nothing new here in Thailand, but doing it with fancy cutlery in a restaurant is something new. Executive Chef Mai Thitiwat, who has had previous stints at Sirocco LeBua and the Michelin-

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starred D’Sens, is as passionate about insects as he is about food. As part of the ongoing launch they’ve already had two four-course chef’s tasting menu dinners in August (one in Thai and one in English). The restaurant also offers seasonable specials and pledges to purchase locally as often as possible. As for nutritional value, bugs are low in fat and high in protein, and there’s no argument that eating lower down on the food chain results in an overall lower carbon footprint. But is the public at large actually making a bee-line to try the, err… grub? “Without a doubt it’s become a destination,” says Regan ‘Suzuki’ Pairojmahakij, one of the consultants involved with the project. “We’ve been having Chinese customers landing in Bangkok and coming straight to ChangChui just for the restaurant.” www.insectsinthebackyard.com

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