PUBLISHER’S LETTER Bangkok’s hour has arrived. As Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants comes to town, leaving Singapore for the stomping grounds of the last two number one selections, the awards bring Michelin-starred maestros and culinary VIPs in tow. Now it’s Bangkok’s turn to roll out the red carpet. In the last half decade, our city’s irrepressible food culture has branched out from the street, with new fine dining venues now opening by the week. And nowhere does this kitchen gentrification show more than in the rise of some truly talented young Thai chefs, whom John Krich talks to in Best of BKK. But while this younger generation makes its mark at home, a group of established kitchen stars carry the torch for Bangkok’s dining scene at popup events the world over. Read more about Thailand’s culinary ambassadors in Out & About. In Food & Drink, we take a close look at Asia’s 50 Best, explaining its selection process and then examining the importance of the awards being held in the Thai capital. In this section, you can also read about Little Beast and Baa Ga Din, two restaurants owned and operated by the above-mentioned new generation of celebrity chefs. After that, check out our interview with the creative-minded Chef Zra Jirarath of Aston, and wash this sumptuous feast down with our review of Vertigo Too, Banyan Tree’s loftiest venue to date, in Nightlife. All this, as well as our 101 archive and extras, can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.
WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
Enjoy.
Mason Florence Publisher
B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
F EBRUA RY 2016 | 3
publisher
Mason Florence
CONTRIBUTORS
editor-in-chief
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher
Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor
Craig Sauers food editor
John Krich associate editor
Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large
Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.
Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.
GABY DOMAN is a Bangkokbased writer with a serious social media habit. When she’s not at the gym, she can be found undoing all her good work in a bakery or a bar. A brownie or Dirty Martini (respectively), if you’re buying.
Joe Cummings editorial coordinator
Pongphop Songsiriarcha art director
Narong Srisaiya graphic designer
Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists
Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers
Rachel Kwok, Adam O’Keefe, Marco Ferrarese, Nicola JonesCrossley, Matt Wilde, Oliver Benjamin, April Nelson contributing photographers
Willem Deenik, Megan Ferrera, Greg Powell, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Niran Choonhachat, Anupong Hotawaisaya, Randy Travis general manager
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Having lived in Thailand for many years, JIM ALGIE has authored such books as the non-fiction collection, Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic (2010) and the short-fiction collection, The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand, as well as co-written the history book Americans in Thailand (2014), and Thailand’s Sustainable Development Sourcebook (2015). His new 2016 book is entitled, On the Night Joey Ramone Died: Twin tales of rock ‘n’ punk from Bangkok, New York, Cambodia and Norway.
AVAILABLE AT:
bangkok101.com
Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .
Paris native LUC CITRINOT has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history.
director sales and marketing
Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon account executive
Orawan Ratanapratum circulation
Phichet Reangchit published by
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
S EF PE T B ERM UA BR ER Y 2014 6| 5
CONTENTS 52
62 46
18
CITY PULSE
TRAVEL
chop, teraoka
8 metro beat
42 upcountry now
gyoza, gianni
14 my bangkok:
46 upcountry escape:
90 eat like nym
rit kewkacha
phuket
92 in the kitchen:
16 hot plates:
52 over the border:
zra jirarath
baa ga din
hanoi
94 made in thailand:
1 8 best of bkk:
amantee
young chefs of bkk
ART & CULTURE
102 nightlife news
22 out & about:
58 exhibitions
104 review: vertigo too 106 imbibe: theo mio
dinner diplomacy
62 interview:
28 making merit:
maxime gautier
the courageous
66 cheat notes:
LI FESTYLE
kitchen
cook book
112 new collection:
30 on the block:
68 photo feature:
house of narong
sukhumvit 31
chiang mai
114 feature:
photographic group
kitchenware for the
81
home chef
116
SNAPSHOTS 32 tom’s two satang
FOOD & DRINK
116 unique boutique:
34 joe’s bangkok
74 food & drink news
simple to simple
36 bizarre thailand
76 meal deals
118 spa review:
38 very thai
7 7 food editor’s letter
spa by le méridien
40 heritage:
78 asia’s 50 best
119 wellness products
blue elephant
8 0 restaurant reviews: 80/20, the summer
SIGNING OFF
house project, little
120 signing off
beast, volti, the
ON THE COVER Chef Ian Kittichai Shows Off His Blades By Maxime Gautier To contact Gautier or see more of his work, visit maximegautier.com.
6 | F EBRUA RY 2016
bangkok101.com
CITY PU LSE
metro beat
SPORTS & FITNESS
Super Bowl
RUNNING
8th Care for Cancer Fun Run Anantara Siam, the Thai Red Cross Society, and the Embassy of Canada team up for the 8th Care for Cancer Fun Run, held again at Lumpini Park on February 6. Proceeds from the event go to the Genetic Cancer Research Centre at Chulalongkorn Hospital, helping to fund much-needed research programmes. The run starts at 8.30am, with registration opening an hour earlier. Runners can choose from 5k or 10k. It costs B350 (with cancer care t-shirt) or B500 (cancer care polo shirt) to join either distance. The price includes a breakfast box and entry to a lucky draw. For more information, call 0 2126 8866 or email careforcancer. asia@anantara.com. The month of love doesn’t have to only be about chocolates and sumptuous dinners. This Valentine’s Day, lace up your running kicks and bring your partner to Run with Me, a themed running event with distances of 3k, 10k, and 20k—all run as duos (only the 10k can be run solo, and even then the rules require runners to cross the line with a “partner” found along the way). The races start in Lumpini Park (the 20k kicks off at 4.30am, the 10k at 5.30am, and the 3k at 6am) and travel down Silom, the 20k crossing the bridge to Wongwian Yai before returning to the park. Photo ops will be ample. For details, including prices and registration, go to esm-sundaymorning.com. 8 | F EBRUA RY 2016
Granted, only a minor portion of the Bangkok population truly cares about the pinnacle—and most bombastic spectacle—of American sporting, the Super Bowl. But regardless of one’s opinion of the gridiron, the Super Bowl, as well as its cavalcade of ridiculous commercials, is undeniably fun to watch. So grab a seat at the Club House Bangkok (Sukhumvit 23) for the 50th annual Super Bowl, streamed live on February 8, starting at 6am. Entry is free, and a special menu will be available (Bloody Mary, anyone?). To book a table, call 08 6999 2377 or check facebook.com/clubhousebkk. Experience the restorative power of yoga this month with a five-day Yin yoga immersion course, held at The Park Ventures (BTS Phloen Chit) from February 17-21. Based on the Chinese meridian system, Yin yoga targets deep tissue layers. Each day will focus on a different part of the body, intended to improve energy flow while relieving tension and stress. One-day passes are available for B2500, and the full programme costs B10000. For more details, email yinyogathailand@gmail.com.
Bangkok International Tens February 26-28 will be a weekend of rugby. The Bangkok International Tens tournament pits teams of ten (all abilities welcome) against one another on the pitch, duking it out in cup, plate, bowl, and trophy matches. The festival kicks off on February 26 with a welcome party. The next two days bring about a variety of matches, all held at Bangkok Patana (Soi Lasalle). The the youth tournaments run from 8am-noon, and then from noon-6pm are the men’s and women’s matches. Each night features a party, with plenty of beer, music, and good cheer. Check bangkokrugby10s.net for updated information. bangkok101.com
metro beat
CITY PU LSE
POP & ROCK
Madonna It’s hard to believe that, in a career spanning 30 years, Madonna has never performed in Bangkok. So it’s with great excitement and giddy anticipation among locals that the world’s best-selling female recording artist finally arrives. As part of her Rebel Heart Tour, Madge will take the stage at Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, on February 9 and 10. Yes, two shows—but good luck getting a ticket for either. They were sold out months ago. Still, keep your eyes peeled for second-hand stubs. On her Wallflower World Tour, Canadian contralto Diana Krall stops in Bangkok. On February 19, the five-time Grammy Award-winning jazz pianist and vocalist—one of the most accomplished musicians out there right now, with seven multiple-platinum albums to her credit—will perform at Royal Paragon Hall. Tickets range from B1500 to B5500 and are available at Thai Ticket Major. For more information, go to thaiticketmajor.com.
THEATRE
Cocktails the Musical bangkok101.com
A man walks into a bar. Heard this one before? Maybe not. Director Dultat Vasinachindakaew presents Cocktails the Musical, a story about a lonely businessman and bartender and the special cocktail that binds their fragile, fleeting love. The show will take place at Thong Lor Art Space (Sukhumvit 55) every day but Wednesdays until February 15. Weekday performances start at 7.30pm. On weekends, they start at 2pm. Tickets are B650 at the door (B480 for students). For more details, go to facebook. com/thonglorartspace. F EBRUA RY 2016 | 9
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metro beat
FOOD & DRINK
CINEMA
Celebrate two years of cutting-edge craft beer at Mikkeller Bangkok (Ekamai 10 Yaek 2) on February 6—or, really, the entire week leading up to February 6, as the bar is organizing a prolonged bash in honour of the occasion with different tap events each day. On February 6, however, expect lots of food, 200 free beers from noon until 5pm, and the bar’s “craziest” tap list yet. For the latest information, go to facebook.com/mikkellerbangkok.
Suck me Shakespeer
Mikkeller Bangkok Hopsession Thailand celebrates a very special release at The Accidental Butcher (Ekamai Soi 10) on February 13, as the beer distributors introduce Nomad, a new craft beer hailing from Australia rocketing up the ratings charts. Expect a smooth-drinking saison, a limited edition red rye IPA (brewed in collaboration with Stone Brewing), and more. Rounding it out will be some honest-to-goodness barbecue, a true Aussie feast. Starting at 3pm, there will be limited edition bottles at great prices and copious free samples, too. To read more, visit facebook.com/ hopsession.
This February, German Open Air Cinema returns to the Goethe Institut’s beautiful garden on Sathorn Soi 1. Held once a week, the events will give insight into the current movie culture of German-speaking countries and then screen a recent movie, including “We are young. We are strong” on February 2, “The Circle” on February 9, and “Suck me Shakespeer” on February 16. All films are shown in German with English subtitles. Admission is free.
MARKETS
CLASSICAL
Neon Fest
Concert in the Park The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra’s Concert in the Park series is back in the beautiful Sala Bhirom Bhakdi amphitheatre inside Lumpini Park. Pack a picnic and come out for renditions of classics, pop classics, and legendary Thai songs, as well as Broadway hits. Entry is free, and the concerts start at 5.30pm on February 7, 14, and 21. Visit bangkoksymphony.org for more information. 10 | F EBRUA RY 2016
Located at Lumpini Square, the new Neon Fest incorporates a container-based flea market (a la Artbox) with a variety of food and drinks, as well as a mélange of creative goodies. The so-called “greatest container festival in Thailand” draws its name from the neon installations giving the market its Bladerunner look. Neon Fest starts on February 11 and will continue every Thursday to Sunday, from 5pm-midnight, until July 31. For more information, visit facebook.com/neonfestbkk. Thai magazine Lemonade is branching out, organizing the Lemonade Shopping Festa from February 26-28. Over 300 booths will offer clothes, food, and more at reasonable prices. The festival takes place at CentralWorld. See facebook.com/LemonadeMagazineThailand for more information. bangkok101.com
Thailand’s first world-class dessert cafe presents the very best of contemporary Japanese desserts, with an artistic twist - from rare ‘Sumi’ bamboo charcoal roll cakes to premium ‘Uji’ Matcha soft ice-cream within the ambience of Japanese ‘Zen’ gardens.
www.facebook.com/kyorollen | www.kyorollen.com
KYOROLL ROLLEN EN KYO
@20 branches incl. Siam Paragon, CentralWorld, EmQuartier, Siam Square 1, CentralLadprao, La Villa Ari, CentralEmbassy ++
Savour award-winning gyoza by 7-time 'Gyoza Champion' from Gyoza Stadium, Tokyo -from signature Sudachi lime, cheesy Mentaiko, sweet Teriyaki, Kurobuta pork to vegan ‘Yasai’ ...along with modern Japanese Izakaya snacks, Sanuki udon, original Yuzu ramen and much more in this delightfully unique gyoza-dining concept. TERAOKAGYOZA GYOZA TERAOKA
@ Siam Paragon, Siam Square 1, EmQuartier, La Villa Ari, Central Pinklao & CentralFestival Pattaya Beach www.facebook.com/teraokagyoza | www.teraoka-gyoza.com
Indulge in over 30 irresistible selections of Parisian eclairs, including signature 'diplomat’ cream, French fleur de sel', popcorn caramel, Kyoto matcha, local mango-coconut and more at PASTEL - The First and Only Patisserie in Bangkok that Specializes in Eclairs, yes, with Flair! @ Siam Paragon, Emporium, Terminal 21 & CentralFestival EastVille PASTEL PASTEL
www.facebook.com/Pastelbkk
Thailand’s first healthy dessert concept, produced by Japanese ‘Ice King’ from Ice Cream City Tokyo, specializes in healthy, 'low-fat, low-sugar’ desserts including signature honey-infused yogurt soft-serve, fruity granita made from 100% fresh fruits, flourless, gluten-free chocolate cakes & much more… @15 branches incl. CentralWorld, Terminal21, CentralLadprao, Mega Bangna, CentralChaengwattana, Chamchuri Square, Silom Complex ++
Quality F&B Concepts by Kacha Brothers -7 Brands, Over 50 Outlets!
SFREE SFREE
www.facebook.com/Sfree.Parferio
KACHA BROTHERS
Tel: 02-540-4555 | info@sfree.co.th
CITY PU LSE
valentine’s deals
Valentine’s Day Deals Swissotel Nai Lert Park invites you to celebrate Valentine’s Day with your loved one over a romantic candlelit dinner at ISO, in the midst of the hotel’s legendary tropical gardens. Indulge in gourmet delights crafted by the restaurant’s culinary team at a special Valentine’s buffet dinner priced at B3800++ per couple, including free-flow soft drinks and mocktails, and B4500++ per couple with a bottle of sparkling rosé. The Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort keeps it classy. Enjoy Italian opera singing over a five-course set menu in a at Brio for B5500 for two, including a glass of sparkling wine each and a special gift for ladies. Uno Mas at Centara Grand at CentralWorld invites couples to share their memorable moments with a romantic dinner and a panoramic view of Bangkok. A seven-course menu (B8000) prepared by Chef Joan Tanya Dot includes Tsarskaya oysters with Hendrick’s gin and tonic, a foie gras terrine with a dry fig cider sauce, lobster cannelloni with avocado and salmon roe, and a red velvet Valentine’s cake. For a romantic night, head to Diplomat Bar at Conrad Bangkok, where Executive Chef Bruno presents a fourcourse meal with wine pairing. Building the mood will be live entertainment, and all women receive a special Valentine’s gift. The prices are B5000 per couple, including two welcome drinks, or B8000 per couple, including wine pairing at dinner. This Valentine’s Day, Theo Mio at InterContinental Bangkok gives its undivided attention to Italy’s San Valentino region. On the menu are lobster and scallop tortelloni, lobster and Prosecco sauce, and snow fish with zucchini trifolati, peas, asparagus, and mint. The dinner is available at B3500 per couple. Millennium Hilton Bangkok offers a few ways to celebrate Valentine’s Day. Enjoy a candelight dinner at Prime Steakhouse, or go to The Beach, its “island paradise” where couples can come together over a romantic four-course set dinner (B9500 per couple) at a pool deck table or in a private cabana. Elements at The Okura Prestige Bangkok presents “Love at first Bite,” a five-course set menu that includes a bottle of sparkling wine and a flower for every woman for B7900++ per couple.
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T@Lobby on GF of Pathumwan Princess Hotel sweetens up February with a selection of chocolate goodies, from double chocolate mousse to a chocolate sphinx. Each item is B140. On February 13-14, couples can enjoy Bangkok at night and a buffet dinner (B3288) at Horizon Cruise at Shangri-La Bangkok, featuring fresh oysters and seafood, as well as a selection of sushi and sashimi. All women receive a box of rose tea. Or head to Volti for a five-course menu of Italian fare for B2988 per person. On Valentine’s Day, Sofitel So Bangkok offers seven ways to celebrate, from the buffet at Red Oven (B1950++) to degustation menus, complete with a complimentary flute of champagne, at The Water Club and Park Society Restaurant. Outside, Park Society Terrace is offering a Valentine’s platter (B3900++ per couple) with dishes designed for sharing. W Bangkok channels Beyoncé (“All my single ladies,” in other words) as WOOBAR throws the “I’m Single So What?” party. There are free welcome drinks for all— singles, couples, friends—from 8pm–10pm. Or head to The Kitchen Table for the “I Heart You” five-course dinner from 6pm–10.30pm (3900++). Share a six-course medley (B5990 per couple) of specially created cuisine—and a complimentary bottle of wine—at the Westin Grand Sukhumvit’s sparkling Pool Garden. The dinner comes with a lucky draw, offering a honeymoon stay at Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa or The Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa, Phuket. Tuck into a meal for at LUCE at the Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn. The five-course dinner comes with a tantalizing selection of mood-elevating dishes, from oysters to blue lobster and a raw chocolate tart with hazelnut cream. Dinners are B5900 per couple. Want to get away and experience something different? Check out XANA Beach Club at Angsana Laguna Phuket, which is offering a two-hour introductory DJ course to couples up with skills to become the life of their next party. Couples learn to mix and scratch their own tracks from a pro DJ. The course culminates with a practical session to test the couples’ skills and attitudes— and then they get to hit the decks. The class starts at B1500 per couple. Advance bookings recommended.
bangkok101.com
CITY PU LSE
my bangkok
Rit
KEWKACHA Overseeing Safari World and Kacha Brothers, Rit Kewkacha is one of Bangkok’s busiest and brightest entrepreneurs. Despite a loaded schedule, he’s also deeply in the know when it comes to fine dining, travelling around the world and Instagramming his finds @litsfree. He recently talked with Bangkok 101 about work, inspiration, and his take on the city’s dining scene. When and how did you decide to start your own business? I guess I’ve always had this entrepreneurial spirit in me, wanting to start my own business along with my brothers, Amnaj, Dej, and Duang. It was a combination of business and personal reasons for founding Kacha Brothers as an F&B company. I wanted a business resilient to economic crises and the ups and downs of the tourism industry. And, personally, food is our first love. Back then, [in 2007], there was no such thing as a dessert cafe or healthy dessert in Thailand. So we started SFREE (short for “sugar-free” and “stress-free”), with me overseeing the business and marketing and Dej in charge of the products. When you were young, did you expect you would continue the family business, Safari World? In Chinese families, businesses tend to get succeeded by the next generation, so we always knew one or some of the brothers would come back to run the company. As possibly the closest to my dad, it was natural that I would to take over the business [when my dad retired]. I have fond memories of Safari World since before the park was built, when it was still barren land in Ramindra. My dad always brought us along when there were exciting moments, such as when the first wild animals (giraffes, lions) or the first panda in Thailand arrived at Safari World. Needless to say, it was the most exciting thing for a young kid back then. I guess I’m very lucky. Not many kids have that kind of childhood. What does a typical day look like? I oversee two businesses—Safari World and Kacha Brothers. Luckily, both offices and my home are in the same area, so I 14 | F EBRUA RY 2016
can juggle both on a typical working day. On weekdays, unless I have a meeting in town, I’m usually at Safari World. I work until around 9pm or 10pm before I head home. Weekends are when I tour around my F&B outlets [54 in total citywide]. I enjoy visiting my “babies” to meet staff and customers. In that way, I get honest feedback. Weekends are also the time I have to explore the malls, the restaurants, the spas—basically all the “happenings” in and around the city. What are your favourite areas to visit in Safari World? What are the “can’t miss” zones? My favourite area is, unfortunately, offlimits to the public—behind stage at the dolphin pools, where I can swim with the dolphins whenever I need to clear my head! It’s the best stress-remedy in the world. Visitors shouldn’t miss our orangutan, sea lion, and dolphin shows. Then there’s Eggs World, the incubation centre where our birds’ breeding program takes place. It’s truly one-ofa-kind. New lives are born every day in front of visitors’ eyes. Last but not least, visit the Giraffe Terrace, where you can get up-close-and-personal and handfeed the world’s largest herd of giraffes— more than 300 and counting! Who is your role model? My parents, especially my dad, who’s one of the most visionary businesspersons in the country. He’s been through three economic crises but has still managed to “survive” and rebuild our family business. He began working at the age of 10, earning 10B of salary, and built up to where we are today. Even at the age of 75, he’s working seven days a week, so it’s natural for me to follow his footsteps— learning that nothing comes easy in life
and to work hard, be humble, and not take things for granted. With all the new restaurants and young chefs, do you think Bangkok is becoming a fine dining capital? I don’t see Bangkok as a fine dining capital. Food capital, sure, but not fine-dining yet. We have many good restaurants, but not really at the finest luxury level. Not that we should want to be one either. Bangkok’s charm lies in diversity, value, and dynamism. And for that reason, funnily enough, I tend to eat at very simple local places. It’s what I grew up with. What are your favourite places to eat in Bangkok? I like to eat at noodle shops—beef noodles, yen ta fo: you name it. There’s a great roadside pork noodle vendor below the Rama 4 expressway, and it always runs out by 2pm. My favourite food is, of course, Japanese, although I struggle to find really good places at the highend level. My favourites are Nanohana (reasonably-priced Kansai cuisine in J-Avenue), Sakuragawa sushi at Jasmine Tower (my favourite in Bangkok), and Shunbo Izakaya in Sukhumvit 11. The places I frequent the most are Isshin, which does high-quality homemade soba in Sukhumvit 24, and Yokoi Udon in Sukhumvit 39. When I feel like splurging, I drop by to see my friend Gaggan. Are there any other things you wish to try, professionally? I now have over 50 outlets of cafes and casual Japanese restaurants, like my gyoza joints. So maybe one day I want to step up and do fine-dining, too. But it’s got to be the right project with the right people at the right time. It would be a natural culmination of my journey as a foodie. bangkok101.com
CITY PU LSE
hot plates
Baa Ga Din By John Krich
B
aa Ga Din advertises itself as serving “street food,” but when the street in question is super-posh Sukhumvit 33, and the purveyor of snacks is Bangkok’s hottest and most ambitious young chef, the result is unlike anything ever seen on the capital’s sidewalks—or anywhere else, for that matter. The third enterprise already for the thirty-year-old, C.I.A.-trained “Ton” Tassanakajohn, following Le Du and Baan, this restaurant is meant to expand the new area of gourmet bar food, but the result is another statement in the evolution of “modern Thai,” where the plates may look small, but come with authentic flavours as big as the airy, well-designed space they come in. Don’t gobble this stuff down too quickly, because care has been taken here to create an original green Sriracha sauce, to debone twice-cooked chickens, to pickle carrots with a home recipe, to smoke hard-boiled eggs and blend local basil into mayo. No wonder these “roots inspired” creations on black platters don’t come at stalls-on-wheels prices. But a simple herb salad, in Ton’s hands, is worth plenty more than the B200 price—each bite the essence of every Thai dish you’ve ever tasted tossed into one. The grilled corn salad (B160) is deceptively simple, too, but it’s a thing of beauty, tossed in a punchy dressing of kaffir lime and cupped within a slice of green mango (plus drops of mango emulsion) made into a circle. Since the chef couldn’t quite contain himself, large plates are available for the very hungry, as well, and the luscious pork shoulder (B450) in a pool of subtle curry, plus eggs, comes about as close as anything here to paying proper homage to those hunks of smouldering flesh seen on every Bangkok corner. A crispy pork belly (B200) is a great mini-version for meat cravers. A side salad of deep-fried lotus root and apple slices in a lotus cream was especially delightful. Then there’s many more with slight, but well-contained and wisely-used, Western influence that look intriguing to come back and try: a so-called “fritatta” topped with shrimp paste and sour cream; roast pumpkin with garlic cream; a unique duck larb served with rice chips and cabbage. As seem to be obligatory at every new eatery now, the drinks are as complex and strange as the food, like fresh passion fruit and gin topped with a burning cube saturated in absinthe. And the names are as creatively and curiously local as could be expected—Silom Cha Cha Cha, Khaosarn Spice, Wake Up in Bangkok. Considering the humble nature of Thai street food, it comes as a minor revelation that the wine list is a robust four pages, with a solid selection of New and Old World labels. That’s anything but a complaint—there are plenty of reds to match the meat while the whites work surprisingly well with the distinctive arrangement of sweet, spicy, and salty elements in Thai food. Chef Ton returned from the US out of loyalty to his native cuisine and a burning desire to engineer an upgrade. The rest of us should be thankful for the results.
BAA GA DIN 26 Sukhumvit 31 | 0 2662 3813 | baagadin.com | Mon, Wed-Sun 6pm-11pm (closed Tue)
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bangkok101.com
bangkok101.com
J U N E 2014 | 17
CITY PU LSE
best of bkk
Culinary whiz Chef Ton
YOUNG CHEFS OF BKK BY JOHN KRICH
“
Thai food needs a revolution,” says Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, at 30-years-old already the head chef of Le Du and two other restaurants, speaking the creed of all who share his youthful zeal. “I always hear about nouvelle French, nouvelle Kaiseki. Now I want to help make the same thing happen here.” Watch out, Asia’s 50 Best! There’s a new generation of chefs, internationalized in training and outlook and ambitious to expand their native city’s dining choices, beginning to make their mark in Bangkok. A decade earlier, you would have found Ton in Laughlin, Nevada, of all places, where he had gone on
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a lark to work in a casino. Originally a degree holder in economics, he had worked two months in a bank. “Those were the longest two months of my life,” he now confesses. “I knew I could never work an office job like that.” Eventually, he gravitated to New York and graduated from the prestigious Culinary Institute of America (C.I.A.), then honed his skills in two of the city’s greatest restaurants, Jean-George and 111 Madison Park. “But,” he recalls, “I always knew I wanted to come back and be a part of seeing my country change.” Though a small establishment down a side-alley with the décor of a 1950’s nightclub, his flagship Le Du, bangkok101.com
best of bkk
Chef Nan of Little Beast sets standards high founded two years ago, has already had a great impact in helping define a modern direction for Thai cooking (his fish terrine, soft-shell crab in curry, and deconstructed khao chae are trend-setting dishes in themselves). Though he was warned that he’d go bankrupt within three months of cooking this kind of food, he has recently expanded operations to open Baan, or “house,” that honours old family recipes and Baa Ga Din (see our review on pages 14-15), a more casual place to experiment in small dishes to accompany drinks. “It all happened so fast, but the spaces just got available,” says Ton, who describes his approach as “very Thai in flavour, but more refined in presentation.” Much as he has wanted to charge ahead, he says a talk at C.I.A. by El Bulli’s Ferran Adriá affected him greatly. “He warned everyone not to go molecular without first knowing the basics of cuisine. And Thai food is what I grew up on, and I don’t believe you can really improve on the past, when they had all day in the palace to come up with the perfect balance.” He also credits Nahm’s David Thompson as his mentor, explaining, “David is the one who always supports young Thai chefs and talks about them wherever he goes.” And he’s proud to be part of a swift transformation in Bangkok’s dining scene. “There are so many small, stand-alone restaurants [now], and they just seem to get better all the time,” he observes. “People don’t come here anymore just to sample the street food—they are coming with a list of new restaurants to try.” After all, he says, “It’s bangkok101.com
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Chef Ann of Bangkok Bold greets guests too easy just to put out lobster and salmon with caviar on top.” He prefers wild mushrooms and pickled shallots. “I have to keep up because food here is moving fast, super-fast, faster than fashion,” he says. “But I’m still quite young and have to keep growing.” The same could be said about Rangsima “Nan” Bunyasaranand, whose path back to Bangkok has followed a similar trajectory. Also a C.I.A. graduate, she too had an apprenticeship at Jean-Georges, then got the chance to learn from the famed Thomas Keller with a stint at Per Se. “That’s where I learned how to think about food, compose a dish, set standards high,” says this diminutive bundle of energy with a short hairstyle and a smile that lights up the room when welcoming diners to her Thong Lo mini-gastrobar, Little Beast (see our review on page 78). While the mascot is a bulldog, a la Adriá, she says friends suggested it because the place is “very small but with big flavours” and she, too, is “little and can be a bit of a beasty.” She clearly means that in the good sense of being tenaciously dedicated to what she does. “When I returned to Thailand in ’07, I encountered a lot of sexism, a lot of discouragement, and scepticism from Thai customers about being a female chef,” she concedes. Yet the establishment she created serves up a French-influenced menu, surprisingly “meat focused,” that seems far more sophisticated and detailed than its homey, neighbourhood setting. But so far, she has no plans to expand. “Little Beast is my baby,” she says. “And it would be hard to let go.” F EBRUA RY 2016 | 19
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best of bkk
Many of Thailand’s top young chefs name David Thompson as their mentor and inspiration While trying hard to please her customers, she’s not above some playful experimentation—as with what has to be the only “Chinese brunch” in Bangkok, perhaps the world. Among the Sunday morning items she puts forth are a mock shark fin soup with Ibérico ham, shu mai with foie gras, and a single oyster bathed in an amazing sabayon flavoured with Shaoxing rice wine. “I am the kind of chef who loves coming in every day, making the stock, getting my hands dirty,” explains Nan. “And the ultimate happiness for me is seeing people coming together over my food.”
“‘THERE ARE SO MANY SMALL, STANDALONE RESTAURANTS [NOW],’ OBSERVES CHEF TON. ‘PEOPLE DON’T COME HERE ANYMORE JUST TO SAMPLE THE STREET FOOD—THEY ARE COMING WITH A LIST OF NEW RESTAURANTS TO TRY.’” Another remarkable woman, the transgendered “Ann” Kanarak, has also brought forth a remarkable new landmark in Bangkok’s burgeoning food scene. Opened 20 | F EBRUA RY 2016
just three months ago, in an old brick shophouse along Phra Sumen Road, the brashly-named Bangkok Bold is a one-table, one-woman cooking studio, both for small cooking classes and a nightly chef’s table that has proved very popular. “We can hold six to ten, but some groups are even willing to sit in tiny chairs against the wall,” she says. And the draw here is not as much experimentation as it is a deep fealty to real Thai fare. Sent to school in Sydney, Ann began cooking Thai dishes for her Australian friends and won so much praise that she tried for a job at David Thompson’s original Darley St. Thai. Another protégé of the Thompson school, known for its emphasis on researched recipes and homemade spice mixes, Ann credits the chef as her “inspiration,” explaining that “once I saw what he could do as a non-Thai, I had to ask myself why Thais can’t do just as well.” She eventually returned to Bangkok to work at Nahm, and followed that up with a longer stint with more responsibilities at the Four Seasons Hotel. Thanks to her and so many other “revolutionaries” on the Bangkok scene—among them, the driven EuroKaiseki master of Aston (see pages 90-91 for our interview with Chef Zra)—Thais are not only getting the devotion that true gastronomy requires, but also tastes of the city’s thrilling culinary future. Declares Le Du’s Chef Ton, “However much we honour the past, we all know that cuisines have to keep evolving or they can die.” bangkok101.com
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Chef David Thompson, coincidental ambassador of Thai cuisine to the world, is all smiles 22 | F EBRUA RY 2016
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out & about
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Dinner
Diplomacy
Thailand’s Culinary Ambassadors Travel the World on Behalf of Bangkok’s Dining Scene BY JOHN KRICH
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hey have introduced coconut milk to Finland, kosher fish mousse to Israel, and charred Thai chillies to a roomful of foodies who couldn’t help rubbing their eyes when the ventilation fans broke. They are a fleet of unofficial ambassadors, informal diplomats, trade representatives, unpaid officers in promoting tourism, provoking word-of-mouth in the most literal sense, walking advertisements for the most appealing wonders of their home city and country. Bangkok’s name-brand chefs, embracing both the perks and responsibilities of what is increasingly a global vocation, have become the most recognizable, and peripatetic, of Thailand’s proxies. “You might say we’re just like lawyers carrying their laptops, except that we carry mortars and pestles,” says Dylan Jones of Bo.Lan Restaurant fame. “Working with the government to promote Thai products, we’ve donned head scarves and supervised 800 male Saudi caterers,” says Nooror Somany Steppe, founder with her Belgian husband of the international Blue Elephant chain. Admitting he’s been enlisted to cook and lecture on Thai food “everywhere but Antarctica,” Chef David Thompson of nahm adds, “I don’t consider myself an ambassador, just someone who believes committedly in the deliciousness of Thai cuisine. And that makes my job easy.” Still, declares Ian Kittichai of the
The young Chef Ton has recently got in on the act bangkok101.com
renowned Issaya Siamese Club, “Especially after something like this recent bombing [at the Erawan Shrine], you want to do the best to represent not just your own restaurants but your country.” To hear them tell it, many have also become experienced in more ways than one at crossing borders. “Yes, you really can become expert smugglers,” jokes Chef Dylan. “I won’t go into details. Maybe you declare a pound of sugar so they don’t notice the salted fish. [But] it’s tough work, and not really that glamorous, to lug 100 kilos of product with you.” Chef Nooror admits she always goes over the weight limit for AirAsia. “All chefs are born with the innate ability to secretly place items in suitcase,” adds Chef Thompson. But Chef Kittichai preaches caution. “You have to research what you can find in foreign markets, plan the menu carefully before leaving,” he says. “Each of my staff puts something in their suitcases. We spread things out. Try to avoid extra boxes or Styrofoam the customs are sure to check.” According to Chef Kittichai, baggage areas are cold and some items can get damaged. But, he insists, “You have to bring baby apple eggplants for a green curry, even if no one eats them. And don’t ever believe they will have the right type of basil waiting. Or that Asian ingredients won’t be canned.”
Recognize this face? By now, you probably do. F EBRUA RY 2016 | 23
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out & about
Chefs Bo and Dylan can recall a rousingly successful reception of their Thai cuisine in chilly Aspen Naturally, as world-class technicians with exacting standards, many of their tales of the road involve the challenges of cooking in new places with new crews. “In New York, my staff speaks 17 different languages, so you have to be patient,” says Chef Kittichai. “Of course, you can always have disasters in other people’s kitchens. Once in the UK, my signature jasmine flower flan never set.” But those can be matched by unexpected triumphs. “I found I could use veal in Finland for my massaman curry,” he recounts. “When I told the Finns it was just meat and potatoes, they told me that was so boring—until they tasted it.” Confesses Bo.Lan proprietress Duangporn “Bo” Songvisava, “We used to try to do something amazing every time out, but now we’re more careful. We can write our own menus within Asia, but have had to get clever elsewhere. In America, we will use fewer chillies, but we never dumb anything down.” It’s hard to imagine the scrupulously authentic and devotedly local team pulling off a tropical feast amidst the snows of Aspen, Colorado, but when talking about being invited by the Thai owner of a ski resort, Chef Dylan recounts, “The only trouble was running out of plates for all our courses.” In seeing how classy a host can be, the culinary couple admit, “Economy or business class air tickets can be a telltale sign.” More than that, however, they now insist that “everything we serve, wherever we go, has to be ethicallyraised, sustainable, preferably organic.” For Asia’s current Number One restaurateur Gaggan Anand, “There are unnamed food events I simply won’t go to anymore. In Australia, of all places. Ones where they asked for my recipes and then made them weeks ahead. Or expected me to work with frozen fish. Then I had to use my own credit card to replace it.” But with the lows come 24 | F EBRUA RY 2016
the highs. Chef Gaggan has especially enjoyed the crosscultural inspiration provided by a so-called “Goh-Gan” event, where he has produced a dinner in tandem with a master Japanese chef. While international acclaim has graced his life’s work, as a transplanted Indian who found space for his culinary experimentation in Bangkok, Calcutta-bred Gaggan observes, “We are just as appreciated by the Thai tourism authority. Many of them are our regular customers. They are well-aware we have become a destination restaurant, that travellers reserve ahead and plan trips because of us.” Still, it’s his newfound acceptance back in his native land that keeps Gaggan on the road for weeks at a time. “It’s tough to be away from your restaurant, but hard to turn down when young chefs line up to learn progressive molecular techniques and want my autograph. It’s very gratifying where I was once ignored as a renegade.” Besides, adds this ebullient, speedy performer with a wink, “I figure people are going to like my food a lot more after they’ve heard me talk.” Being the non-Thai who is probably more identified with Thailand than any of the rest, Aussie David Thompson, famed for his authoritative cookbooks and equally world-standard restaurants in Sydney, London, and now Singapore, as well as Bangkok, confesses, “It’s not easy presenting Thai food as a foreigner. After all, while I can cook the goods, I can’t be the goods.” With his usual self-deprecating humour, he observes, “It’s just a shame that a food which speaks for itself has to engage so decrepit a spokesman as me.” And, in a warning to his colleagues, he reminds, “All this travelling doesn’t necessarily make you a better cook.” For Tim Butler, American master of Asian-influenced European cuisine, in charge of the highly-rated Eat Me bangkok101.com
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out & about
Chef Butler has even cooked underwater in the Maldives
Food is Thailand’s top draw, according to Chef Kittichai Restaurant, the international promotional responsibilities of being a chef today are all worth it when it means getting four days, as he did recently, on a blissful island of the Maldives. Packing his best uni (sea urchin) was a bit like bringing coals to Newcastle. But Butler says he’s aware of using “Thai touches” when he can—even when getting the chance to plan a tasting menu for the world’s only underwater restaurant. “At least,” he jokes, “I knew none of the diners could walk out.” While he says most trips involve tough schedules that barely allow him out of the kitchen, on this one Butler, a seafood specialist, actually got a short cruise where he hooked his own fish. Raised as one of seven poor children whose mother sold food at the wet market in a canal town that “once took a whole day to get to from Bangkok, but now takes an hour-and-a-half on the highway,” Chef Nooror’s life at the helm of an international conglomerate and the most recognizable Thai brand is a true rags-to-riches saga. Even more so are the far-flung travels she’s undertaken under the auspices of the Thai government’s arm for farm products promotion. “I’ve pounded my spices in Ecuador and Venezuela and explained royal dishes to diners near the Dead Sea. My daughter and I needed special visas to travel alone in some Arab countries. Or South Africa, a country I love.” Surprisingly, the cultural exchanges on her trips are hardly one-way. “I’m an inveterate foodie myself, so if I’ve got the chance, I’m going to sneak off to try El Bulli or Robuchon or the best of San Sebastien.” And she counts among her highest honours an honorary degree from Italy’s oldest culinary school. Back home, she figures one of her biggest challenges was catering a dinner for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs hosting American officials from the space agency NASA. “One of my dishes was called 26 | F EBRUA RY 2016
Chef Nooror knows ways to maximize luggage allowance a moon walk. I always try to keep the original Thai tastes with European plating—a beef tartare with tamarind, corn salad with kaffir lime, a tom yam ceviche.” Newcomer Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn of Le Du fame just made his debut spreading the word about modern Thai cuisine alongside the more traditional Nooror at this January’s prestigious Madrid Fusion gourmet conclave. “I am honoured to be invited, and this furthers my goal, the reason I returned from working in New York—to help bring about a big change in the level of sophistication and make sure Bangkok is a world food city.” Of more practical impact, Chef Kittichai has also worked with the French government, but says he was “shocked” to receive an honorary officer’s medal for helping establish geographic denominations for Thai products like Nonthaburi durian, Surat Thani oysters, and healthful rice bran oils. “Even Japan doesn’t have what we have,” he boasts. Despite managing a worldwide empire of 15 restaurants for hotel demonstrations, C.I.A. events, and Napa Valley’s annual World of Flavors, Chef Kittichai still finds time to promote his home land. “The main mission is always to demonstrate that Thai cuisine goes way beyond spicy, or tom yam,” he says. “To bring out all the complexities, textures, smells.” And he does it, he explains, “So that ultimately people want to come here—especially those Americans who have never even had a passport—and taste the real thing. If New York has 30,000 restaurants, I’d say Bangkok has 50,000. And between the food, the beaches, and the spas, the temples and culture, I think the number one motive is now food. I’ve had a lot of people tell me they won’t leave Bangkok until they’ve had at least one magnificent meal.” bangkok101.com
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making merit
Photo courtesy of Matt Willingham
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making merit
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Life Skills thrHugh Knife Skills Personal Development for Underprivileged Youngsters, with a Side of Sanuk
D
wight Turner had dreamed of doing something like this for years, but it wasn’t until he moved into a house with a kitchen that he could actually turn vision into reality. With spatula in hand, the broad-minded founder of In Search of Sanuk seized the opportunity he had been waiting for and launched The Courageous Kitchen, a project under the umbrella of his well-known not-for-profit organization. “The actual cooking is the easy part,” says Turner of The Courageous Kitchen, a project that aligns nicely with the self-proclaimed BKK Fatty’s passion: food. “But, of course, there’s more to the story than showing up and turning on the oven. The kids have to plan, prep, clean up, and sometimes even shop for ingredients. Everyone has to work together and think critically. Those skills, coupled with the ability to provide nutrition for their families, will serve them throughout their lives.” To the unfamiliar, The Courageous Kitchen provides cooking classes for disadvantaged kids and teens. The project’s impact, however, extends beyond cutting board and burners. Turner and a cast of volunteer chefs teach students culinary cunning on one hand, and self-confidence, discipline, and the importance of eating a healthy diet on the other. On top of education, the volunteers deliver basic food supplies to students’ families. Last Thanksgiving, they distributed over 300 kilograms of rice to the needy. In March, they gave out a further 500 kilograms. When the project kicked off, classes were led primarily by Turner and Christy Innouvong, an American of ThaiLao descent who returned to the Kingdom to explore her culinary roots, teach English, and volunteer. Over time, The Courageous Kitchen has opened its doors to more and more chefs and humanitarians, including Kannika Kongkaew of Taburete and Chawadee Nualkhair, author of The Bangkok Glutton blog and “Thailand’s Best Street Food.” Recently, Chef Jess Barnes of the award-winning Opposite Mess Hall has partnered with Turner. Working bangkok101.com
together, the two have introduced a spread of new activities to The Courageous Kitchen, even launching a product line. “We sell items such as olives, pickles, and sauces at the local farmer’s markets and Opposite Mess Hall to spread the word about our project. So far, we’ve had great feedback,” says Turner. “The proceeds help us to continue the initiative, as well.” On an everyday level, the programme connects eager learners with volunteer teachers who have prepared recipes they want to share. “We try to cover a variety of food types, including Thai and Western, and healthy snacks,” says Turner. “The cooking classes take place in conjunction with an English learning activity or a lesson about a specific ingredient, such as Thai pumpkin, which is ordered or donated by local outlets like Adam’s Organics.” Thanks to the collaboration with Barnes, chefs from Opposite teach kitchen techniques each week, with a focus on nutrition and food safety. The programme with Opposite gives kids a firsthand look at a bustling kitchen. On the other side of the coin, it lets chefs share a slice of their lives with hungry learners from the rough neighbourhoods around Don Muang, Intamara, and Sukhumvit, areas where In Search of Sanuk already operates. “It’s not uncommon to see the older sibling of a child who participates in our volunteer pre-school, or whose family receives a housing and food stipend from In Search of Sanuk. Cooking and English classes on the weekend were an immediate hit with older students,” says Turner. “Now, the younger ones have taken notice. Even the parents are curious to see and taste what we’re cooking.” The Courageous Kitchen is evolving by the day, peppering new projects into the initiative. Those interested in learning about the classes, participating in one, or donating to the cause should visit insearchofsanuk.com. Chefs who can give of their time should contact insearchofsanuk@gmail.com. F EBRUA RY 2016 | 29
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on the block
Antonio’s
Azzurro
Wonderwall the Kaffebar
Bao & Buns
La Lanta Fine Art
Sukhumvit 31
A Wandering Feast
Isao 30 | F EBRUA RY 2016
Oasis Spa bangkok101.com
on the block
bangkok101.com
serving inspired international fare with an artist’s finishing touch (see In the Kitchen on p92). Really, this is still just scratching the surface—there are dozens of other restaurants to try in the neighbourhood. After all this stuffing of the face (real or imagined), maybe regroup at the luxurious Oasis Spa. After a Thai herbal steam bath, you just might be ready to fill up again. Aston
vit 31 (S
oi Sawa
tdi)
Oasis
Sukhum
Attic
Azzurro Koi
La Lanta
Peppina
Bao & Buns
Wonderwall
Harvest Appia
Phrom C
hit Alley
Sukhumvit 33
Baa Ga Din
atdi) oi Saw vit 31 (S Sukhum
F
ew city sois are as jam-packed with bacchanalian delights as Sukhumvit 31. Seemingly every house has been renovated into a high-end restaurant. And yet the neighbourhood feels more like a gated community than another hot spot for foodies and hipsters. Maybe this urban incongruity owes to the soi’s distance between the Phrom Pong and Asoke BTS stops, or that the road branches out like a series of veins (depending on the route you take, you can end up at one of a handful of international schools, the Saen Saeb canal, or a baseball batting cage). In all actuality, the chilled-out vibe is mostly due to its tenants: cafés, galleries, and a devastating lineup of top restaurants. While the furthest reaches of Sukhumvit 31 reward deeper exploration, the front of the soi is the most densely packed with destinations. It starts just beyond S31 Hotel with a cluster of restaurants: the old Italian stand-by, Bella Napoli, one of the first proper pizzerias in town; excellent sushi joint Isao, whose classic minimalist design and bamboo panels belies its decidedly modern fare; and Cherubin Chocolate Café, with its abundance of cute chocolate cakes and diet-wrecking brownies. Up the street, on the corner of the first alley on the left, is Antonio’s, as romantic a place as any to enjoy upscale Italian cuisine. For a more casual affair, look to the other side of the street and up about a block to the long-standing T Pochana. This Thai-Chinese seafood restaurant is beloved by locals for its succulent crab stirfried with yellow curry powder. Further along, the density of restaurants gets even greater, if that’s possible. Near where the soi converges with the adjacent Phrom Chit Alley stand no less than a dozen eateries of varying makes and models. Japanese, Korean, pizza, pasta, and more. The highly popular Appia, led by Chef Paolo Vitaletti, represents rustic Roman cuisine. Plus, it’s open for Sunday brunch. Next door, Harvest carries on the homey feel with heartlandish Mediterranean dishes served in a faux wooden cottage. And in quick succession around the corner are Peppina (wood-fired pizza par excellence), Bao & Buns (fusion Taiwanese bao sandwiches), and Chef Ton’s newly opened Baa Ga Din (see Hot Plates on p14-15 for our review). But it’s not all high-end restaurants (well, okay, it’s mostly high-end restaurants). Wonderwall the Kaffebar at the Avora Residences makes a mean caramel macchiato, among other caffeinated variants, and is a cosy place to while away a late weekend morning with a magazine in hand. Use the pick-me-up to transition into an afternoon of surveying art, starting at La Lanta Fine Art and continuing on to nearby Koi Art Gallery. Across from Koi, Attic Studios offers hands-on classes and workshops (it even has a kiln for ceramics) for those who prefer to create rather than view art. And, naturally, the galleries neighbour another restaurant, Azzurro, a bright and airy space serving classic cuisine from every region of Italy, but particularly Tuscany. Had enough of food, haute or humble? Surely not. Just a bit up the soi is the home of one of Thailand’s top young chefs, Zra Jirarath of Aston Dining Room & Bar. Here he plies his trade in an open, post-industrial kitchen,
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T Pochana
Antonio’s
Cheburin Isao
Restaurant
Bella Napoli
Café Art Space Spa
F EBRUA RY 2016 | 31
THE SWEET SCIENCE OF THAI DESSERTS BLENDS SOUL FOOD WITH SUPERSTITION 32 | F EBRUA RY 2016
bangkok101.com
insight
S N A P S H OT S
Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner
ON THAI DESSERTS
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ost people prefer to start and end their days with food they are familiar with. So it is natural that most foreigners would need to acquire certain tastes to enjoy Thai breakfasts and desserts. Accustomed to sweet porridge, many palates might be put off by slippery congee and its savoury flavours. The same goes for dessert. While many Westerners turn to the safe, yet exotic, flavours of mango and sticky rice, the repertoire of Thai desserts goes far beyond this popular dish. For those willing to try them, these desserts send taste buds on a voyage of discovery. Thais call desserts kha-nom, and they come in such a wide range that they are not necessarily limited to after dinner. In the morning, it’s not unusual to see people enjoy kha-nom khrog, mortar-grilled coconut milk pudding, or khao-dtom mud, steamed banana-filled sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves, or khao-nhiew bping, grilled taro-filled sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves. While most Thai desserts would satisfy any sweet tooth, some taste slightly savoury. It all depends on the five groups of ingredients traditionally used in Thai desserts: flour, sugar, beans, fruits, and coconut. Different types of flours created from Jasmine rice, glutinous rice, and corn are used in Thai desserts. The levels of sweetness, from subtle to cloying, come from sources such as palm sugar, light sugarcane juice, molasses, treacle, and honey. Beans, nuts, and seeds are often used in desserts, considered propitious because of their fertility. Beans in every shade of the colour wheel, from yellow to red to green to black, can be used whole or mashed into a paste. The same goes for peanuts, cashew nuts, sesame seeds, lemon basil seeds, and watermelon seeds. Considering the country’s abundance of tropical fruits, it’s hard to imagine Thai desserts without them. Banana might be the most popular staple item. Even its leaves are useful in dessert-making, as they can be used as wrappers. Other fruits, such as palm fruit, jackfruit, rambutan, and durian, the most notorious of all, can be consumed fresh, in syrup, or preserved. Sometimes they are just glazed. Coconut deserves its own category. Thanks to its many useful parts, it appears in all manner of desserts. Coconut meat, juice, cream, and milk, as well as its burnt husks, leaves, and branches, turn into edible ingredients, colouring additives, or packaging materials. Take kha-nom saii-sai or kha-nom sod-sai as an example—caramelised shredded coconut meat goes into coconut pudding, which is then wrapped in banana leaves and tied with coconut fronds and small branches before being steamed. bangkok101.com
Colours and scents make Thai desserts both earthy and otherworldly. Scented candles and incenses are lit to “smoke” some desserts. Flowers like jasmine, ylang-ylang, and rose are either used directly in desserts or to scent syrups. Organic colours come from fruits, flowers, and herbs, such as purple from butterfly pea flowers, green from pandanus leaves, and yellow from pumpkin and turmeric. Salt and other savoury ingredients can sneak into desserts, too. Don’t be surprised if you find dried shrimp and fish flakes on sweet sticky rice. Lastly, the application of gold leaf brings the Midas touch to culinary creations such as thong ake (an auspicious egg yolk truffle that connotes being the first or at the top) and jaa mongkut (a mini crownshaped dessert connoting high status). Like other aspects of Thai culture, Thai desserts have been influenced by Indian, Persian, Chinese, and Mon traditions. However, one of the most curious influences arrived from Europe, namely Portugal and France. Still widely made on the Thonburi side of Bangkok, kha-nom farang khudee jeen is in fact a madeleine in French pastry terminology. Tellingly, Thais call bread kha-nom pang, a term derived from the French word for it, pain. The European legacy appears in another important ingredient, egg. Formerly used in savoury dishes only, the use of eggs was introduced in the late 16th and 17th centuries during the Ayutthaya Era. Although egg-based desserts and bread had already reached Siamese shores, Maria Guyomar de Pinha, a woman of mixed JapanesePortuguese-Bengali ancestry, is often credited for making them popular. Married to Constantine Phaulkon, the Greek adventurer who became King Narai’s advisor, Maria was titled Thao Thong Gheeb Mah. Unfortunately, she was jailed following a revolution and her husband’s assassination. Later, during the reigns of King Pate-raja and King Tai Sra, she worked in the rulers’ kitchens and ultimately became the head of the royal household. Made from Portuguese recipes, thong yib, thong yord, and foy thong have luscious golden hues from egg yolks. Gold being a status symbol, the Thai names of these desserts carry auspicious meanings—prestige, wealth, and charm. For special ceremonies, locals cater them in, since they are believed to bring good luck, love, and prosperity. Combining art and science, making desserts is a labour of love for the meticulous masters of the Thai kitchen. Or maybe it should be sweet alchemy. F EBRUA RY 2016 | 33
S N A P S H OT S
highlight
Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.
BANG RAK TIME TRAVEL
TAKE A PEEK INTO BANGKOK’S EARLY 20TH CENTURY PAST AT BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM.
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ucked away in a semi-neglected corner of Bang Rak, most capital residents are only vaguely aware of the Bangkokian Museum, a collection of historic teak homes which offers visitors a portal into Bangkok’s past. The capital boasts numerous museums, but this one is quite unique in that it’s the product of one person’s vision. Waraporn Surawadee, who was born on the property and still lives there, inherited the homes and their contents from her mother. After she retired from an academic career at Srinakarinwirot and Kasem Bundit universities, she decided to restore and preserve the property as a museum under the auspices of the Bangkok Metropolitan Authority, with the condition that she could continue to live in one of the buildings. 34 | F EBRUA RY 2016
The three buildings and gardens which comprise Bangkokian Museum (sometimes called Bangkok Folk Museum) occupy a little more than one rai of land on a quiet soi that runs east of Charoen Krung Road, not far from the old Central Post Office and the River City antique mall. The story begins with Waraporn’s mother, Sa-ang Surawadee, who met and fell in love with Dr Francis Christian, a surgeon and British subject of Indian descent, while she was travelling in Malaysia. After marrying in 1927, the couple moved to Bangkok and built a two-story wooden house on Soi Ngam Duphli in the Thung Mahamek district. They intended to live in the upper story and open a clinic on the ground floor. Sadly, before they had a chance to move into the home, Dr Francis fell ill and died. bangkok101.com
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Six years later Sa-ang re-married, this time with a Thai office worker, and in 1935 Waraporn was born. Chinese carpenters built a new home on Soi Charoen Krung 43 for the family, who took up residence in 1937. When Waraporn decided to preserve her family home after retirement, she sold the original land on Soi Ngam Duphli and arranged for the 1929 house to be moved to Soi Charoen Krung 43. Then she set about filling the homes, as well as a third building on the property, with family heirlooms. Virtually nothing on display today was made any later than 1957, while many of the artefacts are pre-World War II. The style of all three buildings on the property combines European and Thai design, with high ceilings, vented wooden shutters, and carved ventilator panels to encourage air circulation. Rooms in the two-story 1937 home contain the same furnishings used originally by the Surawadee family, with many items carefully labelled (most labels are Thai only) with information on design and function. Well decorated sitting rooms and a vintage bathroom occupy the ground floor, while large bedrooms with authentic pre-WW II furniture are found on the upper floor. One comes away with a very good idea of how the Thai middle class lived in the early- to mid-20th century. The upper floor of the home also displays fine Thai ceramics dating to the reign of Rama V (1858 – 1910), as well as historic Thai postage stamps and vintage currency. Behind the family home is the older 1929 house moved from on Soi Ngam Duphli. The two-story wooden house is divided into living quarters upstairs and a clinic downstairs. bangkok101.com
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Many of the items on display hail from the 1920s, including antique medical utensils in a small pharmacy on the upper floor. A bust of Dr Christian, cast by famed Italian sculptor and art educator Corrado Feroci (known also by his Thai name Silpa Bhirasri), is also on display on this floor. The upper floor of a third, larger building contains exhibits curated by the Bangkok Metropolitan Authority (BMA) to commemorate the history of Bang Rak. A series of panels bear graphics and text which chronicle the development of the district, from the historic influx of Chinese and European migrants to the construction of Charoen Krung Road, Bangkok’s first street. Meanwhile the ground level displays antique stoves, pots, and other kitchen paraphernalia, gardening tools, vintage magazines, and other artefacts of Bangkok life in the early 20th century. If you get hungry while in the vicinity of the museum, seek out Naaz (0 2234 4537), a Thai Muslim eatery at the other end of Soi 43 closer to Charoen Krung Road. Naaz serves some of the city’s richest khao mok kai (chicken biryani), topped with golden raisins, cashews, and crispy fried shallots. Wash it down with a strong, creamy cup of Indian-style milk tea. It’s open from 8.30am to 10pm, Monday to Saturday. One of the easiest ways to reach Bangkokian Museum is to take the Chao Phraya Express boat to the Si Phraya Pier, then walk.
Bangkokian Museum 273 Charoen Krung Soi 43 | 0 2234 6741 | Free admission
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Bizarre
Thailand
Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the non-fiction collection, BIZARRE THAILAND: TALES OF CRIME, SEX AND BLACK MAGIC (2010) and ON THE NIGHT JOEY RAMONE DIED: TWIN TALES OF ROCK ‘N’ PUNK FROM BANGKOK, NEW YORK, CAMBODIA AND NORWAY (2016). Check jimalgie.com for more.
FISHING FOR BUDDHISM
There may be shoals and shoals of photos of fishermen with their prized catches all over social media, but the sea-level realities are often not so grand, writes Jim Algie.
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rom the archetypal novel Moby Dick to the recent action movie based on the memoir that supposedly inspired it, In the Heart of the Sea, game fishing is the stuff of macho legend. For those captivated by such tales of derring-do, the seas around Phuket are swimming with opportunities to hook some really big marlins, sailfish, barracudas and tuna, or to do some nighttime fishing for sharks. Our small vessel departed from Chalong Bay around 9am. On board were the Thai captain and a local deckhand, three experienced fishermen from the US, Belgium, and Italy, along with myself, the proud owner of four Siamese fighting fish, who was just there to observe and work on a story. After the introductions, the deckhand showed us around. At the back of the boat, on each side of the
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wooden deck, stood two fishing poles. Metal bars known as “spreaders” jutted out from both sides of the cabin so that the fishing lines would not get tangled up. Speeding along behind the boat were two lures (they look like plastic fish with hooks attached to them) and two tiny rubber squids (also with hooks attached to them). Their purpose is to create a commotion on the surface of the water that lures the fish. While the boat sped along at about 20 kilometers an hour, the four of us sat on the deck, sunning ourselves, smoking cigarettes, and talking about fishing. The young American guy, who had mirror shades, a straw fedora, and a cop’s moustache, reckoned that tuna are the most difficult fish to catch. “When marlins and sailfish take the bait, they tend to swim right along the surface, so you can tire them out in half an hour or so. But tuna, they dive bangkok101.com
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straight down and swim around in circles. We call that ‘the tuna shuffle,’” said Ray with a laugh. “So it could take an hour and a half to reel in a big one.” Tuna, he noted, can weigh up to 65 or 70 kilos, though the biggest one he ever caught was around 35 kilos. The Thai deckhand came around with a coffee cup filled with bottle caps. Each one had a number on it. The four of us picked out caps to see who would get to reel in the first catch of the day. Ray was first. Two hours later he was still waiting for a nibble. At least the scenery was good—blue islands in the distance cloaked in ghostly mist, aquamarine water, and sea gypsies out fishing in long-tail boats—while the tang of the salty air was bracing. As Ray said, “Even the worst day fishing is still better than the best day in the office.” At noon we stopped a few kilometers from an island. After eating a cold lunch of fried rice and barbecued chicken on board, the deckhand brought out some fishing lines wrapped around plastic cylinders, put two hooks on each line, and then attached some pieces of squid for bait. The three foreign fishermen then dropped their lines into the water and began unreeling them by hand. “So what’s this kind of fishing called, Ray?” I asked. “It’s called fishing like a caveman, Third World fishing,” he replied, laughing. A few minutes later, when the rain started pelting down, Ray said, “It’s called ‘get wet fishing,’” and then, as he put down his line and came inside the cabin, “It’s called ‘screw this fishing.’” After the rain stopped, the three of them enjoyed a good run of luck, pulling up about 15 small fish (mostly groupers) while I sat there taking notes. Watching the dying fish flopping around on the deck, their eyes bulging, mouths agape, gills pumping, was awful. So when no one was looking I snuck over and put some of the smaller fish back in the sea. On Buddhist holy days in Thailand, releasing turtles, fish and birds is a common ritual; Thais believe that such acts of compassion increase one’s supply of good karma. In the early afternoon, we took a swimming break. The boat was in deep water, so there was no coral around and nothing much to see except plankton. Trying to frighten us, Ray began humming the theme song from the bloody, great-white-shark film Jaws. bangkok101.com
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On the way back to shore, we did some more trolling. Ray and the Belgian guy were desperate to hook a big one. While Andre offered the captain a tip of B500 for helping us land a tuna, the American lifted the gold cross on his necklace up to his lips, kissed it, looked skyward, and said very earnestly: “Please God, help us to catch a tuna.” First the American tried to scare us into thinking there might be a shark attack. Now he was asking God to guide his fishing pole? Heaven help us… About 10 kilometers later we saw a couple of dolphins. They weren’t doing any leaps like they do in Disney films or at marine parks though. All we could see were their fins slicing through the water were their fins. Nonetheless, Ray took this as a very encouraging sign. “Sometimes tuna swim along under dolphins. They have a kind of symbiotic relationship.” Soon there was a big commotion on the rear deck of the boat. Everybody except the captain was back there watching Ray trying to reel in something huge as the boat kept speeding along. Was it a tuna big enough to feed a family of five for a week? Maybe a barracuda with razorblade teeth? Or how about a sailfish with a massive fin? Actually, it was none of the aforementioned. What Ray eventually reeled in was a long piece of rope. Once the boat docked, Ray and I walked down the pier together as he carped about the deckhand who had supposedly lost one of his bigger catches earlier in the day that I had not seen. “If he’d tied that hook on properly, I could’ve caught a really big fish. That bad boy was a whopper, and now he’s swimming around with a hook in his mouth.” Well, I guess every fisherman has a tale to tell about the big one that got away or, in the case of this quasiBuddhist fish saviour, the four that swam away.
This tale and many others come from the author of Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Sex, Crime and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourist attractions.
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very thai
INSECT SNACKS
A PROTEIN HIT FOR FARMERS BECOMES A SNACK FOR CITY FOLK
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ried chicken only comes with two legs per bird, though another deep fried Thai treat boasts up to ten smaller, but scrumptious legs: insects. For centuries a nutritious nibble for impoverished Isaan farmers, insects have become a staple snack among urbanites. Vendor trays glisten with the oil-laced crispy carapaces of a dozen different bugs: ants, beetles, grubs and even scorpions. Buckets may hold a mottled slop that closer to inspection reveals as ants in varying stages of life: egg, grub, adult. Another piquant staple of Isaan and the North, red ant soup finds its way onto Bangkok restaurant menus. Bugs fall officially into two categories: malaeng (sixlegs with head, thorax and abdomen) or maeng (eight or ten legs, just two sections and no wings). However, most insects are simply called maeng, like maeng da, a water beetle resembling a large green cockroach.
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995
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Though insect appearance puts off many Westerners, these alien-looking scavengers are essentially prawns of the land. Pound for pound (and it takes 30,000 termites to make a pound), bugs match the nutrition of freshwater fish and prawns. Bombay locusts, common in Thailand, are 25.88 percent protein, while giant crickets pack 20.72 percent and the greatest energy content of any bug at 237.26 Kcal per 100 grammes. Dragonfly larvae and metallic beetles (their blue-green iridescent wing casing is a material used in royal jewellery) supply the best dose of minerals, especially phosphorous and calcium. No wonder entomologists and the National Institute of Thai Traditional Medicine champion their health value—and as spin-offs to existing industries. …So what do insects taste like? Mot som seem tangy like their name—sour ants. Their large soft white eggs burst on the tongue like sacs of soft cheese. Other bugs emit a gamey, pungent twang and maeng da zing with a minty-apple taste when pulped into a kind of Isaan paté.
Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.
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Beside Surasak BTS, the Blue Elephant is a bright, beautiful fixture 4 0 | F EBRUA RY 2016
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heritage
S N A P S H OT S
HISTORY & HERITAGE The Blue Elephant Channels a Bygone era in Food and Design BY LUC CITRINOT
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istorical architecture in Bangkok is back in trend, as turn-of-the-century houses are now more than ever being carefully renovated to their former glory. They have become bars, art galleries, hotels, and, befitting the bacchanalia of old, restaurants. Café de Lao, Harmonique, Issaya Siamese Club, Nahmsaah Bottling Trust, the House on Sathorn—these once stately mansions are now atmospheric eating places, where fine dining channels the spirit of a bygone era. One of the pioneers in the movement is the Blue Elephant, one of Thailand’s most iconic restaurants. Launched in Brussels in 1980, the Blue Elephant is the brainchild of Chef Nooror Somany Steppe and her husband, Karl Steppe. The couple have carried the Blue Elephant concept across the oceans, representing Thai cuisine at its best in Europe, Asia, and the Middle East— Dubai, Malta, Jakarta, London, Brussels, and more. Chef Nooror cooks a variety of Thai dishes inspired by Royal Thai recipes, but also weaves more humble regional flavours into her repertoire, including traditional Muslim dishes, reflecting her father’s heritage. “This is part of our DNA,” says Sandra Steppe, daughter of Chef Nooror. “Gastronomy is just an element of Thailand’s incredibly rich cultural heritage. Architecture and lifestyle is another component of Siam and this is something that we want to share with our guests.” Speaking of DNA, Sandra’s father was originally an art dealer running an antique shop in Brussels, and so it’s easy to see how classic art and even architecture have influenced the family business. It’s strange to think that the Blue Elephant in Bangkok was not the company’s first outlet to open. In fact, it came after the Brussels, London, Copenhagen, and Paris branches. But it might have been a question of opportunity. The Blue Elephant is located in one of Bangkok’s most exquisite heritage mansions. Built in 1903, the neo-Renaissance building has a distinctive Italian flavour—the trend in Bangkok at that time—with bangkok101.com
some Dutch influence, particularly in its front gable. It was originally the Bangkok office of the Bombay Burmah Trading Company, which was highly active in teakwood and tea concessions in northern Thailand. Later, when the building was acquired by the Thai-Chinese Chamber of Commerce in 1930, some discreet Chinese elements were integrated into the façade. But inside, it is all old Thailand, with wooden floors, rich antique artworks, and heavy brocade in shiny dark colours. The opulence in style and design is only matched by the exquisite food. The Blue Elephant’s love for heritage does not stop in Bangkok, however. The restaurant’s Phuket Town branch is located in one of the most stunning heritage structures on the Island, set inside the Phra Pitak Chinpracha Mansion, a lovingly restored 105-year-old building that echoes an Italian palazzo. And Nooror’s son, Kim, actively promotes Phuket Peranakan heritage in the old town.
The Blue Elephant Phuket’s dining room Blue Elephant Bangkok 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353-4 | bluelephant.com/ Bangkok | Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm
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NO MARRIAGE OF “CONVENIENCE,” COUPLES GET HITCHED IN THE BRIGHT BLUE ANDAMAN SEA THIS MONTH 42 | F EBRUA RY 2016
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UNDERWATER WEDDING FESTIVAL
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hailand is no stranger to the Guinness Book of World Records. The largest bicycle parade, the largest motorcycle parade, the longest catwalk, the world’s most expensive meal. So does it come as any surprise that the nation also holds the record for the largest underwater wedding ceremony? Held beneath the surface of the very bright blue waters off Koh Kradan in Trang, the underwater wedding attracts couples from across the world. The record-setting ceremony took place in 2000, but the underwater wedding endures, now in its twentieth year. Spouses-to-be first arrive on dry land, where they find the island’s white-sugar sands decorated with arches and banners and even a heart-shaped stage. Interestingly enough, stray tourists rove among the wedding parties (there are bound to be tourists—it’s a tropical island, after all). After a series of Buddhist rituals, the couples licenced to dive strap on their tanks and prepare to go under. This is where things get a little murky. All couples receive a wedding certificate formally—and miraculously— signed underwater. Call it a mystery of science, if you will, but it happens. The officially wedded couples rise to the surface, where they celebrate on the shores with a romantic dinner complete with serenades. Beyond offering a unique way to tie the knot or renew vows around Valentine’s Day, the event also promotes the spectacular natural wonders and marine resources of Trang. It seems love is in the water as well as the air. Those interested in taking part should visit underwaterwedding.com.
February 12-14
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upcountry now
February 6 Rimpha Music Festival The Singha Corporation and the Tourism Authority of Thailand present the fourth Rimpha Music Festival, this one with the curiously worded subtitle “FORPLAY.” Held on the hilltop of Pha Thairock in Saraburi, the festival features over 30 of Thailand’s leading acts, including Slot Machine, Gancore Club, and Polycat. What’s more, there will be ample for opportunities to shop, thanks to hipster publications Cheeze and Looker. Don’t miss the “extreme” rides (which might be more “extremely fun” than truly extreme). For more information, go to facebook.com/ rimphamusicfestival.
February 6 – 7 Gypsy Carnival Ratchaburi welcomes its very own outdoor music and lifestyle festival, held this February at Tonphung Farm in Suan Phueng. A variety of bands and artists are on the docket, including Pongsit Kampee, Hugo, Stamp, T-Bone, and Yellow Fang, as well as DJs Shubostar, Messie Joe, and the rising electro-pop outfit DCNXTR. Pitch a tent, or simply pop in for a picnic and a perusal of the flea market. On top of it all are loads of games and activities. Tickets are available at Thai Ticket Major for B1600. Visit gypsycarnivalthailand.com for more information.
February 12-14 Ban Chiang World Heritage Festival Udon Thani’s Ban Chiang, an archaeological site where red pottery shards discovered in the 1960s turned out to be remnants of Asia’s oldest Bronze Age settlement, is one of Northeast Thailand’s shining attractions. Cultural performances from Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam, sales of local produce, and a light and sound show all feature in this celebration of the treasured UNESCO World Heritage site.
February 13 – 15 Old Phuket Festival Peranakan culture in Phuket Town was formed over centuries of mingling between Hokkien Chinese immigrants, Thai nationals, Malays, and British expatriates. To celebrate the town’s rich history, the Old Phuket Foundation sponsors the annual Old Phuket Festival. Thalang Road and Soi Romanee are closed to vehicular traffic, becoming pedestrian-only for the week-long event, which features Peranakan food and costumes, cultural shows, Chinese opera performances, and colourful parades.
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upcountry now
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February 13 – 21 King Narai Festival One of the great rulers of Ayutthaya, King Narai believed in fostering healthy international relations. So what better way to honour his memory than with a tourist-friendly tribute around the ruins of Phra Narai Ratchanivet, the palace he built in Lopburi? Visitors can enjoy a light and sound show, a traditional open-air market, a song contest held by village elders, demonstrations of folk games and Thai boxing, cultural performances by the Lopburi Fine Arts College, and a fashion show featuring traditional Thai costumes.
February 14 Sud Tae Ceremony (Elephant Wedding) Like Trang in the South, Surin also celebrates the month of love with an exotic wedding ceremony. Called Sud Tae, this special event is held in a rather unusual setting—on the back of an elephant. In fact, the marriage certificate is signed and authorized on the noble beast. Locals say that this way of getting married ensures good fortune and prosperity for years to come. If nothing else, it gives you a story to tell your kids. For more information, contact the TAT Surin office at 0 4451 4447.
February 20 Maya Music Festival 2016 – Pattaya The highly anticipated return of Maya Music Festival sees the bash moving locations from Bangkok to Pattaya. There will be two stages—one devoted to EDM, headlined by Tiësto, Dash Berlin, and Don Diablo, and the other a “live” stage featuring top Thai artists, including Thaitanium, Potato, Da Endorphine, Big Ass, 25 Hours, and Cocktail. Maya also incorporates Thai art into its design, giving it a distinct feel unlike any other in the country. Pick up your tickets at mayamusicfestival.com.
February 25 – 28 Honda LPGA Thailand 2016 The LPGA Tour returns to the Siam Country Club in Pattaya, as some of the world’s greatest female golfers take part in the Honda LPGA Thailand. To celebrate its 10th anniversary, the tournament is offering cash prizes adding up to USD 1.6 million. Only professional females are invited to play, but spectators are welcome to watch the athletes in action. For more information about participants and programmes, visit lpgathailand.com.
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Hotels in and around Phuket sure have changed since the early 90s 46 | F EBRUA RY 2016
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upcountry escape
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PHUKET GETAWAY A Tale of Three Hotels BY JOHN KRICH
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hen it comes to travel, longevity doesn’t pay. Too often, return trips to undiscovered hideaways turn into exercises in ruing all that has vanished instead of revelling in what’s on offer. I first came to Phuket back in 1990, still a somewhat contemporary sounding date, yet now a neat quartercentury ago, which in terms of the pace of Asia’s tourist development, is more like half a millennia. The treasure island I was sent to explore by an American travel magazine was not exactly virgin—as my suite at the vast Dusit Laguna complex proved—but it did still seem to be mostly what God and geography intended: a sort of mini-Hawaii, except without people, a heavily jungled and pleasingly mountainous terrain offering itself up so gently and modestly to a world aching for pineapples and sunshine. To call it a “pearl” in a shimmering sea was back then no preposterous brochure come-on but an obvious truth easily confirmed by a single day’s winding drive down its Western coast from one bluff overlooking one perfect arc of unpopulated white sand after another. Maybe it was, in fact, too good to be true, to ripe for anything but developers’ plucking. The rest, as we know, is history (the kind measured out in the unchecked multiplication of massage joints, girly bars, and gasspewing jet skis).
But wait! News flash! The sun still shines, the waters still glisten, the forests (as they are) still beckon, the balm still reigns, even if the scent of frangipani has been replaced mostly by truck exhaust and suntan lotion. And, considering how many chains have set up flags here, how many nationalities retired, how much cash and credit have gone into the register, Phuket still seems remarkably habitable and splendidly hospitable. Perhaps, in our hippie dreams, we would have liked to see rows of grass shacks and nature reserves, but in truth, even hippies, especially aging ones, are not going to turn down a few creature comforts, or pools. In my first week’s foray to Bangkok’s southernmost suburb in nearly a decade, I had to come away admitting that progress did come with a few sweet perks—among these, first and foremost, a collection of some of the world’s most special and wonderfully specialized places to lay one’s weary head. Barely twenty minutes easy pickup from the Phuket Airport, you might call Thanyapura the fitness centre for planet Earth. Founded by a visionary, wealthy German, Klaus Hebben, the place was first opened as a haven for calm and reflection—which still survives in the somewhat woodsy original wing, now kept in scrupulous silence as the main venue for “mind control” (i.e. meditation) workshops. Today, connected to the campus of a
Striking design distinguishes the impeccable Iniala
Despite change, Phuket will never lose views like this
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upcountry escape
The sprawling, one-of-a-kind grounds of Thanyapura, an athlete’s paradise local international school as well as many philanthropic endeavours, the place boasts, without too much fanfare or resort razzle-dazzle, among the most world-class facilities for training or partaking in just about any sport or form of bodily improvement. The Dutch Olympic swim team hibernates in its vast pools each winter; tennis legend Maria Sharapova recently tuned-up here on their perfectly shaded and maintained hard courts. So why not me and my daughter (who rarely exercises outside Bangkok malls) or about half of Southeast Asia’s weekend warriors? At first impression, the main courtyard of rooms, built around a wide, shallow pool for kids, seems somewhat bland and decidedly un-tropical. It’s very comfortable, however, a kind of upscale Holiday Inn—but the real attraction comes after crossing a bridge (where one can view a patch of rainforest crawling with tree snakes) over to what, in homage to Disney, should be called Fitnessland. The aforementioned vast pools, and courts, are supplemented by gyms featuring every sort of machine, dance and yoga studios, and superb track facilities. In two days, I squeezed meditation, a stomach cleansing massage, and more around three outstanding group tennis lessons. I even got tempted to step in the outdoor ring for a little basic Thai boxing, trying to show off for my daughter. It left me with a few bruises and an appreciation for how hard you have to kick to leave a dent in a punching bag. Better still are the between-workout rewards, namely the meals at Divine Restaurant (as in tasty, not holy). Where other resorts make lo-fat rations dull and monotonous, the chefs here are really creative, not just in 4 8 | F EBRUA RY 2016
reducing calories, but in giving lots of Thai zing to a wide range of local fish, tons of obligatory smoothie choices, and fresh-baked breads. Oddly enough, only the breakfast buffet, so well-suited to putting forth a special variety of fruits and grains, seemed more in line with ordinary, greasy hot table fare. My digestive massage came at a new “wellness” facility as the hotel is now shifting to a more holistic focus, treating specific ailments and states of mind as well as improving sports technique, all within the package of de-stressing nearly all of us need. But there’s nothing trendy or shortcut about this sort of healing. It’s not some California New Age feeling, but German earnestness, that pervades the place. If Thanyapura has one drawback, it’s simply that stays of a few days, like mine, are simply not enough. There are too many sports to try, too many coaches and diet regimens to follow, too much self-discovery, and too many pounds to take off, for so brief a booking. And, being in a hurry to cram in too much, can mean heading toward check-out with most of one’s limbs cramping up. One day soon, I’d like to go back and really put in some workout time, maybe sign up for a package they ought to offer for recovery from excessive exercise. I’m not sure what sport is played at the Iniala Beach House, my second stop and another magnificent indulgence of an overseas owner (in this case, Mark Weingard, a British broker moved by a series of personal tragedies to create a one-of-a-kind concept that aims as much at charity as charm). If the Iniala isn’t the most amazing place to stay in Thailand, I’d like to see the bangkok101.com
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Aziamendi scores points for style as well as cuisine
Unbeatable Breeze Spa views competition. It’s not a place to stay really, but a signpost of a way to be. There are just four seafront villas here, on a perfect strip of beach spreading just north of Phuket itself. Each room, each artefact within the four, have been created by a different world-class designer. Beds float hammock-like from spider webs of bamboo, a bathroom turns into a Japanese ink drawing, a private screening room (like full-length mirrors that turn into TVs) offers hundreds of movies, pillars and walls are plastered Dali-esque with broken shards of tea cups and pottery, sculpted white couches seem to mirror the dazzling sun. Of course, each place, big enough for whatever constitutes your entourage, comes with personal butlering, private pools, decks, wondrous sushi and taco breakfasts, espresso makers, and the usual. Making all this luxury truly unusual is a gallery featuring a rotating collection of contemporary Southeast Asian art, beside a “kiddie hotel” where younger guests can stage their own sleepover parties in an imaginary space that puts everything Disney to shame. The idea here is to open the mind, the heart, and especially one’s eyes to the world all of us might live in if we let aesthetics and fantasy rule. Most of an international staff who make you feel instantly part of some special in-crowd seem to have been chosen for their F&B background, and the Iniala hasn’t just settled for some typical crab-by-moonlight hotel restaurant. Aziamendi, a darkened lair where guests dine in near-exclusive privacy, is the Asian outlet of a specially-scouted Michelin-starred operation from Spain’s innovation-obsessed Basque country. Left in the hands of a playful (and rare) woman chef (even more bangkok101.com
The Clubhouse Kids Pool offers fun for all ages uniquely young and Filipino-American), the tasting menu, supplemented by an adventurous sommelier’s daring pairings (from sake to moscato), looks minimalist on the page, but each mini-plate comes with layers of texture and pretty much everything one has never consumed before—an appetizer “picnic” of brick paper and pork belly, an edible rock (no typo), an olive oil crepe, and loyal to its Spanish roots, crab meat washed with an essence of black olive and Ibérico ham. At every turn, the Iniala simply refuses the opportunity to be ordinary. It’s hard to believe all of this is found down one barely-marked coastal two-laner leading to a little-known hot spring. The Iniala probably doesn’t need the publicity or endorsement. It’s the sort of joint that is already known through word-of-mouth to those who can afford it. And this isn’t the sort of place that can be summarized as part of some regional round-up. This is a hotel that deserves to be the subject not of reviews but short stories or today’s equivalent of Somerset Maugham novels. All it lacks is the history. After such heights, I somewhat dreaded the return to reality I anticipated at the Amari chain—especially when I realized the branch I had booked was on mobbed, besotted Patong Beach. That was before we got there, and found the cheery, warmly ochre-coloured complex spread out on a hillside promontory that looks out across the blue bay and sweep of beach but that’s remarkably and blissfully isolated from the backpacker hubbub (even if actually within walking distance of the southern end of the town, just in case you simply must have a foot massage or get your lifetime’s fill of people in tank tops and tattoos). That was also before we F EBRUA RY 2016 | 49
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Patong has never looked so good as it does here, at Amari were met at the busy entry by communications manager Tai, an ever-smiling transplant from Isaan whose unforced warmth and personal attentiveness could have made an iguana feel at home in Antarctica. My daughter and I certainly felt like we could live here forever, once we were ferried by golf cart, up into the veritable equatorial suburbia of separate small modern houses by which the hotel has recently expanded from its aging bayside building. While our room was only a third of a condo, it felt like we were blissfully alone and once more relaxed in our villa with separate living room and a perfect balcony for losing oneself in a view of the sea. While a doting staff member named Gypsy took my daughter off to paint her own Thai-style paper umbrella, I got a superb “mojito” treatment in the Amari’s openair, aptly named Breeze Spa overlooking the sea. I left stirred, not shaken. Considering this was high season and the place at full capacity, lunches and breakfasts of exceptional quality hummed along swiftly at the eating outposts for executive members strung along to the heights, to wonderful outdoor dining with views. Invited by Swiss hotel manager Pierre-Andre Pelletier, we dined right by the water, and better than candlelight with the lights of cruise ships and fish fleets bobbing in the distant horizon, at the Amari’s La Gritta Italian outlet, supervised by female chef from Rome, with pastas that tasted like it (even if the veal was undoubtedly untenderized Australian). I wasn’t surprised to hear that Pierre-Andre lives modestly in the hotel himself after decades in Thailand, without family—the very model of a hotel manager, who has the knack to find time to make every 50 | F EBRUA RY 2016
guest feel like part of his intimate circle and make it look like he isn’t even working. Amari’s tiny sweep of beach was alright for a dip, and boats shuttle guests round the bend to the sheltered and apparently semi-nude Freedom Beach. In general, the place bills itself as a pleasant jumping off point for sea excursions to Phi Phi and less trampled islands. But with its brace of pools and the lush environment, I had no desire to go anywhere. Neither, tellingly, did my daughter—and as we watched a sunset off a jetty at the farthest end of the Amari’s ample property, and saw schools of striped clown fish choking the waters below, we went at once to rent snorkels for our last morning’s modest attempt at adventuring. Ferried down at 7am, we had but to plop ourselves safely within sight of the hotel, and within five breast strokes of the rusted jetty stanchions, before we became deep-breathing voyeurs in our very own “Finding Nemo” cartoon. Jet-black species highlighted with yellow ridges floated past electric blue breeds, giving us such easy access to tropical wonder as to make us feel guilty. But all pangs of self-recrimination, and sorrow at leaving so soon, were assuaged by the hugs, grins, and photo-taking bestowed on us personally by Pelletier and the crew. How did he so effortlessly make it seem like he was personally aware of every single person in every single one of his beds? In the hands of people like Pelletier and Gypsy, the future of Thai hospitality seems safe. And Phuket itself seems a little less endangered, too, with all those aquarium wonders thriving so near the unwashed masses, and still as it always shall be, it is a place of abundant welcome. bangkok101.com
MEXICANO RESTAURANT ; 1st floor of The Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok Sukhumvit soi 18, Bangkok l Tel : 02 - 261 - 7100 # Mexicano mexicanobkk l www.rembrandtbkk.com
The rain-soaked walls of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, one of Hanoi’s most visible landmarks 52 | F EBRUA RY 2016
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over the border
T R AV E L
The Dragon Soars Once the Paris of Asia, Hanoi seduces travellers with irresistible charm, impressive eats, and affordable prices. BY JOE CUMMINGS
W
ith its vibrant street culture, easy-going people, and affordability, there’s little wonder Hanoi ranked fourth in TripAdvisor’s World’s Best Destinations last year. Bearing a French accent and a 1,000-year-old heart, it’s a city bristling with energy and culture yet more attractive than sprawling Saigon in the south. Regionally, it’s unique among Asian capitals in the way the cityscape of charming lakes and narrow lanes has managed to retain character and dignity despite topping PWC’s projected list of the world’s fastest growing cities for the period 2008 to 2025. In 2010 the city celebrated a millennium of continuous history. After centuries of Chinese rule, when Hanoi was known as Long Do (Dragon Belly), followed by Vietnam’s
Puppet theatre is an essential Hanoi experience bangkok101.com
golden age of Thang Long (Soaring Dragon), the city came under French control in 1888. As capital of French Indochina, the city’s 19th and 20th century architecture was moulded to French tastes, lending an important aesthetic to an already-rich stylistic heritage. The triumph of the Vietnamese Communist Party in 1975 introduced a Soviet-bloc aesthetic which combined with everything that came before it to produce a uniquely modern Vietnamese lifestyle. More recently, an influx of returning Vietnamese entrepreneurs, international expats, and a creative digital-savvy local population has quickened the city’s pulse. For most visitors, the city’s focal point is Hoan Kiem, a large lake enclosed by a tree-lined promenade filled
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Locals tottering over the red bridge to the shrine built on the waters of Hoan Kiem with tai chi practitioners and joggers every morning and evening. Radiating out from the lake’s southern shore, wide French Quarter boulevards are flanked by stately ex-colonial buildings, including the Grand Opera House, State Bank of Vietnam (formerly The Bank of Indochina), Presidential Palace (formerly the Palace of the GovernorGeneral of French Indochina), St. Joseph’s Cathedral, and the historic Hotel Metropole, once a temporary home for such luminaries as Charlie Chaplin, Graham Greene, Catherine Deneuve, and Jane Fonda. To the north of Hoan Kiem, the narrow lanes of the Old Quarter bear the legacy of 13th-century guildsmen who divided the city’s main mercantile centre into 36 trade specialties, called hang. A street named Hang Ma is dedicated to shops selling paper votive offerings to be burned on the anniversary of a loved one’s death, while Hang Dong offers copper bells and gongs and Hang Cot is filled with tall bunches of cut bamboo used to make furniture and scaffolding. Strolling through the Old Quarter, dodging overloaded scooters and weaving amongst vendors purveying their wares on the sidewalks, is a never-ending source of entertainment. Then there’s the true heart of Old Quarter life: Hanoi street food. Bangkok has nothing on Hanoi when it comes to the variety and sheer quantity of spots where one can squat on diminutive plastic stools while cooks fling shiny noodles, foliage, and bits of meat into steaming curbside pots. It’s virtually impossible to walk more than 50 metres in any direction without stumbling on a collection of sidewalk stools and mobile kitchens. The Vietnamese say “In food, as in death, we feel the essential brotherhood of man,” and sitting elbow to 54 | F EBRUA RY 2016
elbow with the mass of sidewalk diners, you will feel it, too. A classic local favourite is bun cha, a bowl of thin rice noodles, charcoal-grilled pork slices, pork patties, and pork broth generously garnished with basil, mint, cilantro, shaved celery, and greenleaf lettuce. It’s not ready for the spoon and chopsticks, though, until you’ve added spoonfuls of garlic-spiked vinegar and fresh chilli slices. Banh mi, Vietnam’s famed baguette sandwiches, take a different form in Hanoi. Whereas in the south the emphasis is on thick layers of pate topped with a dominant sweet chilli sauce, in Hanoi there’s more variety of ingredients, and an overall less sweet flavour profile. Hanoi vendors sometimes grill the sandwich between two iron slabs, almost like Italian panini. For Hanoi banh mi trung ngai cuu, eggs are scrambled with a handful of mugwort leaves, and then folded into a crisp baguette with a minimum of sauce. Hanoi streets are also famous for bun rieu cua thit nuong, a delicious crab dumpling and noodle soup topped with smoky slices of barbecued pork. More than anywhere else in Vietnam, Hanoi is wellknown for bia hoi, no-frills streetside joints that serve cheap, fresh-brewed beer along with roasted peanuts, fermented sausage, and other savoury snacks. Bia hoi spots begin serving in the afternoon and continue until sold out, since the preservative-free beer can’t be served the next day. Bia Hoi Corner, at the intersection of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen streets in the Old Quarter, is a good place to meet locals from all walks of life, as well as fellow travellers. Clear the bia hoi haze the next morning with a cup or three of caphe nau, potent Vietnamese Robusta bangkok101.com
EVENINGS @CHATEAU DE BANGKOK • THURSDAY’S Panorama Wine and Bistro • FRIDAY’S Poolside BBQ THB 399 net Come 3 Pay 2
29 Soi Ruamrudee 1, Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 tel: +66 (0) 2 6514400 email: resv@chateaubkk.com
www.chateaubkk.com bangkok101.com
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Hanoi-style banh mi differ from other versions
Silky smooth caphe trung
No trip to Vietnam is complete without pho
coffee mixed with condensed milk, available at streetside cafes that are almost as ubiquitous as noodle vendors. Hanoi’s own Cong Caphe is a small chain of coffee shops decorated in Vietnamese communist chic where you can sample better-quality brews, including bac xiu, an irresistible blend of hot coffee and coconut milk. Hanoi is also known for caphe trung, which blends coffee powder with whipped egg yolk and sugar to create a unique concoction that goes down like liquid tiramisu. The best place to sample egg coffee is Cafe Giang, at the corner of Hang Gai and Hang Dao, where the drink originated in the 1950s. If you’re serious about digging deep into Hanoi cuisine, consider signing up with Hanoi Street Food Tours, founded by Van Cong Tu, author of the blog Vietnamese God and an expert on the city’s backstreet food secrets. Vietnam’s capital can’t boast the large-scale nightlife scene of Bangkok or even Singapore, but if intimate bars and bistros are your thing, you’ll be very happy in Hanoi. Tadioto, a favourite among Hanoi writers, artists, and other creative types, offers vintage bar furnishings in a minimally renovated colonial space near the Hotel Metropole and Grand Opera House. For live music fans, CAMA ATK, on a quiet street in the Hai Ba Trung District, hosts local and international touring musicians and DJs in a rustic setting. In the posh West Lake District, Madake offers two different performance spaces, a white-brick upstairs bar, and a dungeon-like hall downstairs, for musical artists of flexible genres. Hanoi Rock City, in the same neighbourhood, boasts a larger music hall with a good sound system.
For high cuisine and live music all in one go, legendary Don’s Tay Ho in West Lake is the best choice. Internationally acclaimed Canadian chef Donald Berger, along with award-winning Vietnamese chef Nguyen Van Tu, offers a huge menu that spans everything from contemporary Vietnamese cuisine to wood-fired pizza, fresh oysters, and grilled steak. Bands perform at the open-air rooftop oyster bar. Don’s wine list is unparalleled in Vietnam, and the restaurant also offers an intimate Cuban cigar lounge. As fine a place as any to stay is Cinnamon Cathedral Hotel (US$55 per night), which overlooks St. Joseph’s Cathedral in the Old Quarter. Opened in late 2015, the hotel features quiet, well-maintained rooms and a warm, friendly staff.
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Cinnamon Cathedral Hotel 38 Autrieu, Hoan Kiem Tel +84439386761 cinnamonhotel.net Don’s Tay Ho No 16 Quang An Rd, Tay Ho Tel +84437192828 dons-bistro.com Hanoi Street Food streetfoodtourshanoi. blogspot.com
Tadioto 24B Tong Dan Street Tel +84466809124 CAMA ATK 73A Mai Hac De Tel +84913524658 Madake Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Tay Ho Tel +84462766665 Hanoi Rock City 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel +84943571984 bangkok101.com
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PAINTBOX VOL. 4 Two years ago, Phra Khanong was the Bangkok equivalent to a backwater, all tenements, shophouses, and auto repair shops run out of garages, far removed from the cultural buzz saw of the city centre. But gradually, the neighbourhood has transformed and without losing its local feel, thanks in large part to a thriving art scene. In the middle of this movement is GOJA, the Thai-Japanese gallery that launched in 2014 with its premiere exhibition, Paintbox vol. 1. Now, two years later, the folks at GOJA celebrate the gallery’s second anniversary by building on its beginnings. Paintbox vol. 4 goes back to where GOJA started, following two years of concerts, live installations, and some eccentric mixed media concepts that have included glowin-the-dark spray paint and 3-D goggles. The latest edition of Paintbox brings together artists from across the globe— Alex Face, Black Belt Jones DC, Daisuke Sakaguchi, P7, Alexandre Osmoze Brakha, Nev3r, Wok22, Chainarong Kongklin, and Witness, collectively representing Thailand, the UK, Japan, and France. Their styles are by and large modern, their techniques a blend of graffiti, illustration, painting, and mixed media. The exhibition continues a trend borne by GOJA since its early days. Bright, daring art and a community that welcomes all with open arms have long been the gallery’s calling card. Swing by for a Japanese beer or a cup of a coffee, and stick around for the colour show. Paintbox vol. 4 opens at GOJA (W District, Sukhumvit 71) with a party on February 5. For more information, facebook. com/gojaphrakhanong.
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exhibitions
DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVES
PSG ART GALLERY Silpakorn University, 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (opp the Grand Palace) | 0 2221 3841 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-4pm art-centre.su.ac.th
February 9 – 27 On display are works from four new and never before exhibited series: “Rescue – Spirit,” “Melodies,” “Anthropomorphism,” and “Symbols and Figures.” Also on view are some works new to Bangkok, including those from the series “Flower Power,” exhibited previously in other countries. “Different perspectives” invites viewers to look at the works from (appropriately enough) different perspectives, to take possession of the images and make meaning from them.
BEYOND A SHADOW
ADLER SUBHASHOK GALLERY 160/3 Sukhumvit Soi 33 I 0 2662 0299 I Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6.30pm I sacbangkok.com
Until February 21 Attasit Pokpong’s seductive signature style takes over Adler Subhashok Gallery. His bright-lipped polished portraits of Asian women have parallels to those of successful Chinese painters of a similar ilk, but the proximity and luminescence of his subjects has lent his canvases a certain distinction. These latest porcelain-faced portraits were executed during a three-month Parisian residency.
LONELY IN BANGKOK
KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 0 2234 6700 | Tue-Sun 11am-7pm kathmanduphotobkk.com
Until February 28 Having spent four years in Bangkok, self-taught photographer Jean-Sebastien Faure is yet another image-maker to be seduced by the city’s extreme urban juxtapositions. The freelance photographer, who straddles the line between fine art and documentary photography, depicts an empty concrete labyrinth as a metaphor for the loneliness and disorientation that a stranger feels within the density of this metropolis.
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exhibitions
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THE STATE OF IMPERMANENCE KOI ART GALLERY 245 Sukhumvit Soi 31| 0 2662 3218 | 10am-7pm koiartgallerybangkok.com
Until February 29 Inspired by ancient Vipassana meditation, Thamrongsak Nimanussornkul has created a series of abstract paintings channelling the sense of wellbeing and serenity gained from such practice. Thamrongsak visually translates Vipassana (which means “insight” or “clear-seeing”) into mandala-like patterns of dots and colours that reflect the philosophy of impermanence and universal truth.
TOTO ART
CHOMP 63-65 Samsen Rd | 0 2629 2026 | 9am-11pm | facebook.com/ chompcafe
February 5 – 29 Silpakorn graduate Katika Krachaisri, also known as Toto in the art world, shares her vivid mixed media interpretations of Thai temple paintings on the second floor of CHOMP. Toto relies on a range of influences, from classic batik to Tibetan mandalas to Australian aboriginal art, and combines just as many techniques to express her colourful take on human nature as seen in Buddhist folklore.
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interview
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The Eyes of a Chef French Photographer Maxime Gautier Talks about his Work in the Kitchen–and on Pillows
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Me, I’m a little crazy,” says the photographer Maxime Gautier. “I’m on the floor. I’m diving and jumping over things. I’m part of the brigade.” He’s not talking about war photography, but rather his work between the burners, capturing the lives of chefs on the job for an on-going project he calls “Kitchen Stories.” The Bordeaux-based Gautier has so far photographed 26 chefs at work—and, sometimes, at play—on his quest to visit 80 chefs in kitchens all over the world, from
Chef Luca on his trademark Vespa bangkok101.com
Ibiza to Essaouira, from LA to Tokyo to London. When finished, the photographer plans to compile the images and stories into a thick coffee-table book, the narrative wrapped around the human condition rather than chefs as celebrities. “I want to go inside the chefs,” says Gautier, whose voice practically leaps with passion as he arrays his plans. “They could be quiet, they could be loud, they could be pretentious—I don’t care. The point of the book is not to
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interview
Gautier's shots of chefs, such as Chef Nooror, show them in a more human light meet the biggest chefs in the world, but to meet chefs with real personality, the chefs of today cooking for tomorrow, and share who they are.” Driving Gautier, to a degree, is a spoken boredom with over-produced portraits of chefs in the same old poses—arms folded, frown stoic, toque well-starched— but more important is his background. Gautier once plied the long, hot hours of the culinary trade. Before becoming
“THEY COULD BE QUIET, THEY COULD BE LOUD, THEY COULD BE PRETENTIOUS—I DON’T CARE. THE POINT OF THE BOOK IS NOT TO MEET THE BIGGEST CHEFS IN THE WORLD, BUT TO MEET CHEFS WITH REAL PERSONALITY.” a photographer, long before working on the photo desk at Paris Match, he was a line cook, an aspiring professional. “I understand chefs, because I used to be one,” he says, 6 4 | F EBRUA RY 2016
explaining how he left school at 18 to work in a London kitchen, and later, after falling in love with Italian cuisine, moved to Rome to do the same. In March of 2015, on a friend’s recommendation, Gautier first came to Bangkok to continue his project on a new continent. Over 10 days, he left a trail of fire across the city, shooting its most prodigious culinary icons at work—Ian Kittichai at Issaya Siamese Club, Nooror Somany-Steppe at Blue Elephant, Ton Tassanakajohn at Le Du, Zra Jirarath at Aston, Luca Appino at the Pizza Massilia food truck, and Julien Lavigne at Oskar. Each strikes poses evocative of their deeper emotions, such as the cool Chef Zra hidden behind sunglasses, or the demure Chef Nooror extending a tray of fire-red chillies. Speaking to his irrepressible energy, the photographer often did two photo shoots in the same day. In between, he captured street vendors going about their daily business across the city, an integral part of the project validating the connection between white and blue collar cooks. “A head chef, a new chef, or a boy with little experience is all the same in the end,” Gautier explains. He then goes on to mention how his dream is to travel into the African bush to talk to tribal groups as they prepare meals, and to go to Alaska to speak with ice fishermen. Ultimately, his aim is to show viewers who these people bangkok101.com
interview
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The cool Chef Zra with his team at Aston
To Gautier, chefs aren't only employees of upscale eateries are in one picture. In scanning Gautier’s portfolio, it becomes clear that this has always been his approach. In many of the images separate from “Kitchen Stories,” the eyes of the person in focus are emotive, or piercing, as if wedging between the viewers’s ribs like a carving knife. This stands in stark contrast to “Kitchen Stories,” in which bodily poses tell the story, and the attendant emotions skew toward the bathetic and light-hearted. Abetted by an apparently insatiable hunger to create, Gautier’s acumen for storytelling in non-traditional ways has also led him outside the narrow confines of the kitchen, where he has combined shutter and lens with needle and thread. Gautier and an old friend of his from Bordeaux, Jean-Vincent Vallette, have started the ARTPILO project, which was on display at YenakArt Villas until late January. The duo place photographs and paintings on pillows of varying sizes (all made in France) encouraging viewers to take them off the walls, touch them, experience art with their own hands. “You can cry on cushions, you can sleep on cushions, you can make love on cushions—you can do everything with a cushion. And it’s probably the first time in the world you can find cushions in an art gallery,” says Gautier with a laugh. Other artists—painters, photographers, graphic designers—are set to create their own series in the near future, building on the success that Vallente and Gautier bangkok101.com
Chef Julien and his beautifuk army of helpers have achieved (following its display in Bangkok, ARTPILO appeared at Maison & Objet in Paris). For the initial launch, Gautier provided close-up shots of animals, including an intimate shot of a camel he took while touring Morocco. Other pillows feature Warholian photos of flowers taken by the photographer. Each pillow is distinguished by the tell-tale poses in which the photographer usually captures his human subjects—a chicken with one bare leg extended like a sassy swimsuit model, a meerkat staring down the viewer with a crocodile grin, a downright ascetic toucan. “[All these] animals have stories, too. We are all the same,” says Gautier, adding, “I look a lot. I’m not a liar. You know, I listen.” Listening to Gautier, it’s clear to see how his hunger is taking his art to new and greater places. Soon, he hopes, those places will include the US, South America, and across Europe, where he can continue his “Kitchen Stories,” tying the tether of human emotion from hemispheres east to west. To contact Maxime Gautier and learn more about his work—and to see a greater selection of shots from his portfolio, including a selection of “Kitchen Stories” from around the world—visit maximegautier.com or email mgautierphotos@gmail.com. Visit artpilo.com for more information about the project.
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THE COOKBOOK CONUNDRUM By John Krich
T
his is not a book review—it’s a book shelf review. Ironically, in an era when book reading is supposedly obsolete, literary festivals are booming. And, when one can Google for a dozen decent—and entirely free-ofcharge—recipes for every dish known to man, cookbooks also seem to be doing just fine, thank you. The only catch is they are now often designed and marketed as sumptuous coffee table books that bring with them a “cultural experience” or ethnographic expertise along with some culinary celebrity, making many far too thickly-bound and exhaustive to actually hold in one’s hand while stirring a pot. Should any of the illustrious chefs coming to Thailand this month—or for that matter, any of the most rudimentary or daring home cooks the world over— need any help in adding Thai staples or touches to their repertoire, the actual help they are going to need is in sorting through the five full rows of Thai cookbooks at a top bookstore like Kinokuniya (with undoubtedly even more via Internet for mail-order). How many ways can you 66 | F EBRUA RY 2016
skin a cat (excuse me, a mango) or stir-fry a pad thai? Let me count the ways. You might start, for instance, with a trip to Rosa’s Thai Cafe. Unfortunately, it’s not in Bangkok but in the Spitalfields Market of London’s East End Brick Lane. And the recipes also feature how to cook a steak, suggesting a certain amount of culinary overlap. At the other extreme, however, is Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok, named for his restaurant in Portland, Oregon, of all places (with LA and NY branches, too). In this jam-packed, brilliantly retrodesigned volume, we learn all we ever wanted to know but were afraid to ask about why foreign foodies fall in love with Thailand and its most obscure ingredients. Though there’s the usual cavalcade of recipes, they are amplified and extended with numerous lively asides and anecdotes, as well as ways to actually find some of those tropical buds and herbs at your local non-tropical grocer. Here’s the ultimate hip and fun guide to cook and live like a 21st century urban peasant. bangkok101.com
cheat notes
But what to do when you have to use canned coconut milk? The ultimate statement along these lines may be Jeffrey Alford’s new Chicken in the Mango Tree (not a recipe you want to try at home). Once teamed with Naomi Duguid to produce superb photo-text combos of travel and cuisine, he’s now settled into life in a Thai-Khmer village, which he evokes with a rarely matched breathless appreciation. Being a non-Thai is no longer an impediment to kitchen authenticity, not since Aussie David Thompson took on Thai food and the brunt of xenophobic criticism, proving everyone wrong with his encyclopaedia Thai Food, later followed by his equally thorough Thai Street Food (designed, unfortunately, with a stencil typography that makes it look like a US Army operating manual). Strange, in person and interviews, Thompson always affects the air of some casual beach bum who has forgotten to shave and just stumbled out of bed. Never mind that he supervises Nahm and many other restaurants—either one of these epic publications would qualify as a lifetime’s opus for any mere mortal. For a chef, the writing is superb—less flashy than Bourdain, but just as solid. The history section is especially authoritative, and there are many rare and obscure dishes here that budding chefs simply won’t find elsewhere. Of course, sometimes these farang go too far, as in Jane Bamforth’s Low-Fat No Fat Thai, that also happens to feature recipes from Burma, Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Philippines (Thai nationalists, stand your ground!). bangkok101.com
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Two Dutch authors are responsible for the extensive Bangkok Street Food, a nice starting guide, but are people really going to tackle these dishes at home? (I can just hear a housewife in the Midlands: “Honey, let’s invite the neighbours for a Bangkok street food party tonight.”) Perhaps the best solution to this cross-cultural quandary is Lonely Plant: From the Source. Most LP guides have been weak on eating, sticking to value-formoney backpacker haunts, and tardy in catching up on the gourmet revolution. But this one does a superb job of amalgamating regions and influences and culling (stealing?) all it needs from a blue-ribbon panel of Thais. And naturally, once challenged by Thompson for supremacy, Chef McDang had to come up with his equally voluminous The Principles of Thai Cookery. In the intro, he casually mentions he grew up in a royal palace and palled around with Julia Child—after that, it’s off to the races. The design is not so cutting-edge, the recipes a bit dumbed down, but one can hardly go wrong. (Of course, anything in English can’t quite capture the man’s splendid erudition.) On the bottom shelves, there are plenty more softcover, cheapo recipe holders, such as The Little Thai Cookbook, Bite-Sized Thai, World Kitchen Thailand, Simply Veg Thai, Classic Thai, etc. These all follow the tried and true format of instructions to one side, colourglossy photo to the other. Still, they don’t actually expect us to take these into the kitchen and produce a meal, do they? F EBRUA RY 2016 | 67
f/28
NIGHT CAT by Kenneth Denke
The Chiang Mai Photographic Group Presents its 8th Annual Exhibition
Say “Chiang Mai” and what comes to mind? Trekking in hilltribe country, indulging in copious Thai massages, taking cooking classes, weaving, maybe even raw veganism. But perhaps less well-known is the fact that the Rose of the North is home to a community of highly talented photographers. The Chiang Mai Photographic Group (CMPG) is made up of mostly expat photographers representing a dozen different countries, each with wide-ranging skills and interests—from wildlife and macro to street, travel, commercial, and war photography. The 30-40 active members meet every two weeks at River Market Restaurant on the banks of the Ping River, discussing photography and sharing their new projects with one another. This diverse group stages what has become known as the premier annual photographic exhibition in the north of Thailand. Until February 7, the group will see their eighth exhibition run at the Maya Lifestyle Shopping Centre, close to the hip Nimmanhemin Road. When CMPG leaders Wyndham Hollis and Mike See organized the group’s first exhibition in 2007, they secured a space in Central Airport Plaza, hoping to capture the attention of people who wouldn’t otherwise see it during their trips to Chiang Mai. The Central Group became a regular sponsor, generously providing high-profile space, and the original strategy paid off
as casual visitors converted to dedicated regulars. Last year’s move to Maya allowed the group to create a larger display. Then Canon, another major sponsor, offered to print the participating photographers’ work with their inkjet machines, improving the quality of the presentation by leaps and bounds. As time goes by, the make-up of the CMPG changes, but when it’s time to select work for the exhibition, there’s nearly always a pleasant surprise, Hollis admits. Someone with a fresh style will have joined while others will have moved on to new locations. But the standards always remain high. The CMPG exhibition kicks off “f/28,” a month of photographic arts events in various venues around Chiang Mai. For further details, visit f-28.org. CHIANG MAI PHOTOGRAPHIC GROUP 8TH ANNUAL EXHIBITION January 23-February 7 Fl 3, MAYA Lifestyle Shopping Centre, Chiang Mai The Chiang Mai Photographic Group aims to further all aspects of its members’ picture taking abilities through the sharing of skills and mutual support in an informal, inclusive, and enjoyable atmosphere. All are welcome, regardless of experience. See cmphotogroup.com for details and dates.
art & culture photofeature
ALONE IN A CROWD by Kenneth Denker I WANT TO BE ME by Wyndham Hollis
LUNCH by Jens Hedegaard-Friis
CONCRETE FEAST by Poul Riishede
MODERN CONTRASTS by Gรถte Torstensson
DOG DAY AFTERNOON by Tad Malone
KONYAK-NAGA ELDER by Mark Leviton
DETERMINATION by David McPhee
VILLAGE HEADMAN by Ryan Libre
A SUCCULENT SURF N TURF AT THE CHOP, SEE P86
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AROY NOT SO COMMON
Thong Lo has its rival to the EMQuartier’s Helix Quarter. The Commons, a lifestyle mall clearly skewed toward food and drinks, has opened on Thong Lo 17, just a skip up the road from J Avenue. Among many others, tenants include Roast, which has moved over from Seen Space; The Bottle Cap, the offshoot of BREW Beers & Ciders; a Bao & Buns spin-off; Soul Food 555, a branch of the much-loved Soul Food Mahanakorn with a brandnew menu; and the latest Peppina opening. Plus, on the top floor is Absolute Yoga, offering a way to detox following all this comfort food and beer.
VIVIN FOR YOUR VALENTINE
Just in time for Valentine’s Day, Vivin has re-launched its limited edition strawberry- and rose water-flavoured foie gras. The strawberries are hand-picked by local hilltribes from the mountainous Samoeng district in Chiang Mai, where the weather is mostly cool and misty. Complementing the sweet dried berries is an aromatic hint of rose water, which obtains its delicate flavour from the rose petals steeped in it. Roses and strawberries have a long tradition of being symbols of love and romance, of course, and combined in this fine French foie gras they add to the aphrodisiacal air of the holiday. The foie gras costs B1100 for a 110 gram jar and is available for a limited time at vivinmaison.com.
DINE & DASH
Chef Fatih Tutak at The Dining Room at the House on Sathorn unveils two new lunchtime set menus this month. Available until the end of March, the two- and three-course menus, priced at B720++ and B920++, respectively, come with choices such as pasta with black truffle and spider crab, drunken chicken, lamb belly with Uyghur rice, and mushroom mille feuille. And to top off this gourmet lunch, choose from two desserts, “Not My Mom’s Pudding” with coconut ice cream or “Season” with persimmons and a crumble topping. Stop in for lunch between noon and 2.30pm each day. To make a reservation, e-mail thehouseonsathorn@whotels.com or call 0 2344 4025.
HIGHER SOCIETY
Sofitel So Bangkok has revamped its high-flying Park Society, introducing its new chef de cuisine, Joost Bijster. The chef, formerly of Savelberg, as well as a handful of Michelinstarred venues in the Netherlands, brings a new menu to the award-winning restaurant. And, for its part, the restaurant has been given a makeover, including a fresh theme, building a down-to-earth social buzz with menu items made to share. Check it out for yourself. To make a reservation, call 0 2624 0000.
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THREE COURSES TO CRAVE ALOFT BANGKOK 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2207 7000 | aloftbangkoksukhumvit11.com Enjoy a three-course lunch at Crave Wine Bar & Restaurant, with highlights such as smoked duck breast salad with lemon olive oil dressing, pan-fried red snapper with a white wine and basil cream sauce, and baked spinach and ricotta cheese cannelloni with tomato ragout. The set costs B300++ and includes free-flow fresh iced tea.
SICHUAN SPICE DUSIT THANI BANGKOK 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com/dtbk Throughout February, tuck in to the flavours of China’s spiciest province at Sichuan with dishes such as fried san goby, garoupa baked in casserole Sichuan-style, roasted tiger prawns with a dried Sichuan chilli Sauce, and many more. Prices start from B450++ per dish.
COOL KOREAN PATHUMWAN PRINCESS HOTEL 444 MBK Center, Phayathai Rd | 0 2216 3700 | pprincess.com Experience original Korean dining at the award-winning Kongju Restaurant. This month, special dishes include dark galbee wa ju mek bab, a medley of piquant Korean flavours with stir-fried chicken and a selection of crisp fresh vegetables cooked in a fragrant chilli paste sauce. Swing in for this specialty and much more. Prices start at B300.
CRAB FEST SOFITEL SO BANGKOK 2 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com Every Sunday evening, go crazy for crab at Red Oven. Enjoy Alaskan king crab, French brown crab, the famous hairy crab, spider crab, and Thai blue crab at the dinner buffet for B1200++ per person. The buffet runs from 6pm to 10.30pm from February 21 to March 27.
FRANCO-JAPANESE FARE THE OKURA PRESTIGE BANGKOK Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com Dive in to spectacular cuisine in the dynamic setting of Elements’ open kitchen. New Executive Chef Antony Scholtmeyer will prepare a range of dishes, such as Tasmanian ocean trout confit with pickled vegetables and orange miso coulie (B370++); salmon with nori butter and crispy ginger (B750++); tuna medallions with foie gras, dried cranberries, and buck wheat in black truffle sauce (B1,200++); and a fillet of Wagyu with foie gras and a potato waffle in black truffle sauce (B1,900++).
SET MENUS FOR SPEEDY LUNCHES W BANGKOK 106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 | wbangkok.com The Kitchen Table invites busy Bangkokians to a try its quick lunch sets, available until March. The lunches are available at two prices: a two-course menu at B625++ and a three-course menu at B750++, which includes an appetizer, main course, and dessert. Vegetarian options are available, as well, although highlights like slow-roasted pork belly with chilli bean paste and a roasted Wagyu sandwich on onion bread with lemon-basil mayonnaise might be too enticing to pass up. 76 | F EBRUA RY 2016
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TROPHY LIVES Food Editor John Krich Ruminates on the Social Movement of Cuisine in Asia in Light of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Coming to Town Welcome, chefs! And I don’t mean cooks or “cookers” (in the Asian-English parlance), caterers, cuisiniers, choppers, scrubbers, scullions, sous-vide sous-whatever underlings, or short-order slingers, stirring stir-fries. These days, few honorific titles are more hardearned or universally respect than the one sewn above the breast pocket of white kitchen tunics. It seems odd, perhaps, that no other occupation in our post-modern, post-scarcity world so firmly occupies the global pantheon as those engaged in elevating the very oldest and most basic of human pursuits, born very much out of scarcity, survival, primeval instinct. Thanks to cooking shows, cookbooks, and a network of dedicated foodies who seem to transcend all boundaries or categories, the chef is a sort of demi-god—part-celebrity, part-artist, part-personality, part-entrepreneur, part-Picasso and part-P.T. Barnum, part-mystic and part-glutton— that perfect blend of crass-self marketer and magical conjurer of the divine from out of the ordinary. In late February, Bangkok will for the very first time host the most remarkable gathering of culinary greats with the unveiled selection and celebration of this year’s San Pellegrino Best 50 Restaurants in Asia. In honour of such illustrious visitors, this month’s issue of Bangkok 101, having long featured the best of the city’s burgeoning dining diversity, is especially focused on our finest food creators. Throughout the magazine, for the benefit of local readers and the erudition of foreign guests, we have offered ample proof of how much our fair city has become a breeder of, and magnet for, chefs. In City Pulse,
we highlight the driving forces in a rising generation of Thai chefs, and we also recount how top chefs have turned to playing a crucial role as ambassadors for not only their private efforts but the public good of the entire country. In the following pages, we offer for review some of the most exciting of new, chef-driven restaurants now cropping up with remarkable regularity. And we explain how demanding new cooks have spawned a generation of quality-driven local suppliers, feeding one another’s growth symbiotically. But a short time ago, such an issue, and such a gathering of notable Top 50 proprietors, would not have been possible. For far too long, masters of myriad Asian traditions laboured in obscurity, looked down upon by Confucian-based tradition as mere workhands, inferior to the scholarly class and unworthy of distinction. Long hours, broken families, and gambling addictions were the kitchen crew’s pre-determined lot. Even today, in a continent where so many brilliant purveyors and extenders of food traditions still go unnoticed, and sharing recipes or signature dishes is still looked upon by some as a form of industrial espionage, the Top 50 stand in the forefront of an as yet unfinished social movement aimed at giving proper due to our reigning geniuses of taste—and uniting Asia with the West in one even playing field for all who would raise and advance the cause of the gourmet. May this issue whet your appetites and heighten your appreciation. Chefs of the world unite! You have nothing to lose but your tongs! And your anonymity!
BANGKOK 101 Food Editor John Krich has just returned from Kuala Lumpur for his second stint in Bangkok. Previously the chief food columnist and feature writer on travel, arts, and sports for the Asian Wall St. Journal, John is a native New Yorker who has authored nine books, including the classic on Asian travel Music in Every Room: Around the World in a Bad Mood, Won Ton Lust: Adventures in Search of the World’s Best Chinese Restaurant, the PEN/Hemingway Award-winning novel, A Totally Free Man, and the recent A Fork in Asia’s Road, a collection of his best food pieces. He has been a frequent contributor to major publications like TIME/Asia, Condé Nast Traveler, National Geographic Traveler, The New York Times, and San Francisco Examiner. bangkok101.com
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Fine Dining Fever Bangkok Unrolls the Red Carpet for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016
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ast year was the Year of Gaggan, in case you hadn’t heard. Bangkok’s adopted son took home the hardware at the 2015 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards presented by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, his eponymous venue named the crème de la crème of the whole continent. But Gaggan’s triumph was just part
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of the story, as far as Bangkok is concerned. Asia’s 50 Best regulars Eat Me, Issaya Siamese Club, Bo.lan, and nahm—David Thompson’s flagship and number one at the 2014 awards—ranked among the top 50 yet again, as sure a sign as any that Bangkok’s fine dining scene has firmly planted its flag on the global stage. bangkok101.com
feature
Now, after three years in Singapore, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants moves its toques and trophies to Bangkok, solidifying the city’s reputation as a culinary capital on the rise. At the W Hotel Bangkok on February 29, Bangkok will play host to the region’s masters of mise en place, its roving writers and critics, and foodie VIPs from every corner of Asia at a ceremony where the most delicious, daring, and influential restaurants of the past year are revealed (champagne shortly to follow). The results are a blend of the empirical and the subjective. Asia’s 50 Best ranks its restaurants after a long process in which a panel of 318 highly respected voters from six different regions of Asia eat, eat, eat, and later make their selections. Roughly one third of the voters are chefs and restaurateurs, one third food writers, and the other third well-travelled gourmets. Fifty-three voters represent each region, all with diverse senses of taste, covering India and the Subcontinent; Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan; China and South Korea; Japan; and the northern and southern regions of Southeast Asia. The voters choose seven restaurants, three of which must be located outside their countries of residence. Panellists must also have visited their selected venues at least once in the last 18 months—and, of course, they cannot pick a restaurant in which they have a vested financial or personal interest. bangkok101.com
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Although predicated on personal experience, the list still successfully provides an honest survey of current tastes and trends. At least in this region. Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants represents only a slice of a much larger pie. Later in the year, the top choices from Belgium to Brazil and beyond are compiled into yet another list and announced at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. Last year, Gaggan ranked tenth at the World’s 50 Best while nahm cracked the top 25 in twenty-second place. So what’s in store this year? Will Gaggan enjoy another champagne year? Will the title return to nahm? Or does another gastronomic jewel claim the top spot? No one can say until the results are officially announced. But one thing is for sure—fine dining in Bangkok is finally getting the attention and credit it deserves. In playing host to Asia’s brightest kitchen stars, and the eminent folks who follow them, Bangkok also gets to share its rich food culture—the sidewalk stalls, shophouse soup joints, sky-high bars, and sizzling new restaurants serving every cuisine imaginable that make this city special. This is Bangkok’s chance to earn even greater culinary cachet, and the gravity of the moment will not be lost on those who have helped build its reputation.
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80/20 (EIGHTY TWENTY) - Talad Noi’s Quirky New Bistro Sharing a massive former warehouse with always-full Oldtown Hostel, 80/20 combines the efforts of three co-owner chefs. Head chef Napol Jantraget honed his skills at Toronto’s Creme Brasserie and later at Bangkok’s Rocket Coffeebar, where he met Nattha “John” Techamethakul, and their partner Japanese chef Saki Hoshino takes care of pastries, breads, and desserts. This creative Talad Noi restaurant takes its name from the Pareto Principle. Also known as the “law of the vital few,” the paradigm claims that 80 per cent of all effects come from 20 per cent of all causes. In the case of this restaurant, you might say it means a global approach to local dishes and ingredients—Thai flavour profiles informed by international cooking techniques. The chefs have preserved the industrial origins of the building. Thai-themed iron grille-work sourced in the neighbourhood adds an arty touch. According to Nattha, the restaurant serves a mixed local crowd of expats and Thais. Produce comes from a small organic garden in Suphanburi and from nearby street markets, while fresh sugarcane juice and coconut products are sourced from shops in the block just behind the restaurant. And the menu changes once every couple of weeks. A pennywort colada (B290), made from fresh pineapple, fresh coconut juice, and Chalong Bay Rum blended with bai bua bok (pennywort), is an excellent 80 | F EBRUA RY 2016
starter. So is a Tid Koh (B220), in which said rum is mixed with sugarcane juice and coconut nectar foam and topped with chopped kaffir lime leaves. The cocktails are subtly sweet and savoury at once, a nice change from the saccharine mixes many Bangkok bars produce. Start with a mind-blowing dish called F**k n’Flowers (sic), named for the variety of Thai pumpkins (fak) which appear on the plate. Roasted pumpkin and young green pumpkin are joined by crispy pumpkin foliage and edible butterfly pea flowers. The concept and plating offer fresh visuals, while remaining familiarly Thai in flavour. A definite home-run. A prawn ceviche, meanwhile, offers a pleasing combination of brine, crunchy fresh tomatoes, and tart lime. A plate of pan-fried squid sparingly dressed with a Thai-inspired tamarind sauce, as well as a lemongrass white sauce, is delightful. Even more impressive is seared fresh seabass with lemongrass beurre blanc and potato hash on the side. It’s best finished with a soufflé-like, fresh-baked molten chocolate topped with homemade vanilla-chilli ice cream, or a fluffy lemongrass-and-coconut panna cotta served with roselle-ginger coulis (B180 each).
80/20 1052-1054 Charoen Krung 26 | 08 7593 1936 daily except Tuesday, 5pm-10.30pm
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THE SUMMER HOUSE PROJECT - Neverending Comfort Food The Summer House Project is just that: a workin-progress just launched as the Western cuisine companion to Never Ending Summer next door. What the place has going for it is the similarly cool design of architect Duangrit Bunnag—a garage-like space with clinically clean lines and an open kitchen, hung with huge shaded lamps and ferns—plus the meticulous management of Naree Boonyakiat, and last, but certainly uppermost, one of the most spectacular and ample sites on the far side of the city’s ever-charming, ever-renewing riverfront. Just sitting on the comfy Zebra-striped armchairs and couches on the restaurant’s large wooden platform of a patio is worth whatever meals cost. The place begs for outdoor entertainment, and management promises music, dance, jugglers, and anything to enliven the night in the future. By design, the menu is as coolly minimalist as the rest of the space. Dishes are divided by basic, no-nonsense headings: Ocean Caught, Soup Pot, Side, etc. Borne on large teal-to-celadon plates, most allow the main ingredient to sing loudly with little fuss. Fish is clearly favoured here, and no one will be disappointed by the grilled mackerel with baked tomatoes (B450) or sea bass with a lemony side sauce of capers (B450), the grilled squid, or crab cakes (B350). All reasonably meet world standards. Special care is given to salads and vegies like bangkok101.com
balsamic roasted beets (only B120). The pasta offerings need amplification—a seafood linguine (B400) meant to satisfy the Thai palate won’t do much to quell Italian cravings—and the meats, while perfectly succulent, are as yet not terribly elaborated. Desserts are outstanding, supplied by a famed local baker, including an especially moist almond-orange cake. Those who feel confused by this modernist twin, or simply have a hankering for more spice, can order from Never Ending Summer’s homey Thai offerings. In time, Ms Naree assures, this new venue will allow diners to bask in a more definite culinary vision. For now, she terms it Eurorustic; it will be worth taking frequent trips on the cross-river ferry to check up on the direction they decide to take. Once the food is up to speed and matches the river views, the Summer House Project may just end up transporting Bangkokians to Southbank on the Thames, a Left Bank bistro, or, most probably, an all-purpose homage to the creatures of the currents. By whatever label, it’s already one of the best spots in Thonburi to properly indulge in the hearty, the soothing, and the non-Asian.
THE SUMMER HOUSE PROJECT 41/1-5 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2861 0953, 09 4485 3966 daily 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm
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LITTLE BEAST - Roaring with Flavour There’s no reason to fear this beast, a popular Thong Lo neighbourhood bistro, named for the bulldog that’s a mascot for its tenacious young chef. Trained in some of America’s most elegant restaurants, and a rare woman in a decidedly sexist profession, Chef Rangsima “Nan” Bunyasaranand might be expected to spin some delicate bits of highpriced, haute-cuisine frou-frou. But here she does quite the opposite, with fare that’s brawny, unapologetically Western, and a bit rough, in a setting of concrete, exposed pipes, and padded booths that seems less suited to the exotic East than to New York’s Upper East Side. Begin with a warmed crab cream deep that’s deeply comforting (B300), or a housemade slab of pate that’s unapologetically larded with fat (B250). It’s French enough to offer more terrines, but an American tendency to overindulgence seems to overpower all. A salad of watercress and baby asparagus is topped with so much Parmesan cheese that it looks like it was left out in a snow storm (B220). But who’s complaining? The pumpkin gnocchi (B300), fried here, are drizzled with droplets of delectable cream sauce. The penne, a signature, are not just dressed in the usual, simple pesto but a robust combo of pork cheek ragout and black truffle essence (B400). A main of chicken confit does a nice job of reinventing the bird 82 | F EBRUA RY 2016
(B800), and Little Beast’s ribs are the sweet, thin, and just gnarly enough to gnaw variety that carnivores slobber over (B980). Steaks and a rack of lamb are available, too, for the bigger spenders and meat-lovers. Again thumbing her nose at French patisserie, Chef Nan’s desserts are more of the Howard Johnson’s ilk, only upscale—ice cream sandwiches with home-churned flavours (B150) and an Ovaltine white chocolate tart with scoops of caramel ice cream that can satisfy all the kids in town, aged 8 to 88. The centrepiece of the restaurant is its old-fashioned wooden bar counter-topped with hanging glasses. The beverage selection features an exceptional range of craft beers and rare flavoured ciders, as well as a nice martini—hardly “ladies’ drinks” here. Maybe if this place really was in the midst of Manhattan, where the chef lived for some years, we might not even take notice. But in our midst, Little Beast seems to roar. Still, its trademark is a very conscious lack of pretension. Food, drink, atmosphere, friendship, and conversation seem to be equally on offer within these small confines. It’s a place to relax and set aside judgments and just sup with consistent pleasure.
LITTLE BEAST 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13 | 0 2185 2670 facebook.com/littlebeastbar | Tue-Sat 5.30pm-1am, Sun 11am-4pm
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VOLTI RSTORANTE & BAR - Face-to-Face with Real-Deal Tuscan Fare It may be said that the sight of a motorbike parked defiantly at the entrance of an eatery is not a particularly welcoming sign. But rather than boorish manners the classic Vespa scooter, serving as a key motif element at the Shangri-La Bangkok’s Volti, speaks of the supremely satisfying experience that awaits just beyond the gleaming sentry’s chrome bumpers. A peach puree and champagne bellini (B320) makes for a refreshing preamble to Tuscany-raised Chef Luca Casini’s menu, which itself brims with market-fresh, authentically sourced imported ingredients. In a welcome perpetuation of the Italian culinary love affair with seafood, an infatuating marinated octopus (B390) starter mingles the tender bites of skinned Mediterranean octopus with equally naked potato, along with Taggia olives and cherry tomato. Continuing the theme, the tuna carpaccio (B410) arrives tissue-thin with a uniformly right-angled presentation, featuring dainty dollops of mustard crème and orange embellishing the succulent Yellowfin slices. An impossibly tender roasted sea bass (B700) offers an intriguing saffron-tinged presence, with sea asparagus and petite roasted potato under the elegantly tiered fish fillets. Beyond seafood, the fettuccine porcini (B490) is an unpretentious classic of olive oil-butter coated pasta, premium mushrooms, and sundried tomato. Chef Luca’s yolk-only recipe gives the pasta an inviting bite that plays 84 | F EBRUA RY 2016
perfectly off the garlic-thyme seasoning and accentuates the dish’s real deal home-style allure. The highly recommended roasted chicken (B680) is a non-traditional but no less enticing selection, with skinless breast and boneless leg stuffed with morel mushroom, joined by a medallion of eggplant Parmigiana and carafe of red wine sauce. Chef Casini demonstrates his patisserie prowess with an Italian take on the classic mille feuille, in which he nestles vanilla crème between two layers of cookiecrisp crust. Meanwhile, the vanilla-amaretto panna cotta with strawberry sorbet veers sharply into here comes the science territory when crumbled bits of mascarpone mousse—flash-frozen in liquid nitrogen—are dramatically ladled on. As it thaws, the mist-shrouded cheese traverses the textural spectrum from brittle to luxuriously smooth. Volti’s lofted, split level interior rocks equal parts understated elegance and not quite-themed kitsch, with oversized headshots (Volti translates to faces, after all) of golden-era Hollywood dara and anonymous glitterati on the walls. A counterfront assaulted in chalked graffiti completes the space’s casual, mildly eccentric vibe.
VOLTI RISTORANTE & BAR Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu | 0 2236 7777 shangri-la.com/Bangkok | daily 6pm-10.30pm
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Surprise and delight your loved one with a romantic candlelit dinner at J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain on Valentine’s Day. Chef Amerigo Tito Sesti has created a tantalizing 8-course French menu including a tempting dessert. The Valentine’s Dinner is priced at THB 9,999 net per couple including a red rose for the lady. For reservations please contact us on 02 119 4899 or email reserve@jaime-bangkok.com
J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorain at U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn District, Bangkok Tel. 02 119 4899 | email reserve@jaime-bangkok.com www.jaime-bangkok.com
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THE CHOP - Upmarket Meat Mania With its crimson banquettes and industrial-look interior, The Chop is aptly dressed for the part as a purveyor of authentic US-style BBQ. The stylish venue, located on the ninth floor at EMQuartier’s Helix Quartier, mercilessly tempts meat lovers with a menu dripping with the kind of hearty steakhouse fare that the dedicated carnivore simply cannot resist. Apropos of the restaurant’s meaty offerings, mains are served on wooden planks, a rustic touch that accentuates the universally primal attraction of the cuts lain thereupon, and providing a rugged aesthetic counterpoint to the subtly refined décor. Perusing the menu, one immediately gets the impression that there’s plenty at steak here, and choosing from the enticing selection of top grade US beef cuts on offer can be a daunting task. Burger-wise, The Chop demonstrates its chops with some seriously beefy two-handed creations that would send Popeye’s burger addicted pal Wimpy into a fit of hysterics. Their Wagyu burger (B390) comes as a juicy, flame-broiled puck of Australian Wagyu topped with rich cheddar cheese, crisp bacon, and a mild jalapeño pepper, sandwiched within a house-baked burger roll. For those feeling peckish in an upmarket way, a decidedly tony upgrade is also available in the form of the Billionaire Burger, with its towering patty of ground Wagyu sharing space with a hunk of foie gras and truffle seasoning. 86 | F EBRUA RY 2016
The Chop’s spectacular BBQ pork ribs (B450) come as a succulent, slow roasted slab slathered in a tangy sauce that any down-home Southern-US good ol’ boy would appreciate. To describe these ribs as “tender” would be an understatement—the meat seems almost anxious to please the diner by simply falling away from the bone when picked up. Another staple of BBQ dining, the signature chicken hot wings (B220) are succulent, flavourful, and delightfully messy. True to the name, the pieces are coated in a zesty sauce that proudly announces to the Thai culinary world that American fare is not entirely lacking in spicy components. The dish is served with a side of bleu cheese sauce and veggie sticks, which coolly temper the sauce’s tongue-searing piquancy. Dessert highlights include a rich New York cheesecake (yes, with actual graham cracker crust!) and a wonderful apple crumble served with ice cream. Service is excellent, with wait staff unobtrusively moving in to replace saucesmeared plates without having to be asked, and providing plenty of replacement napkins for BBQ purists who know that ribs and wings are meant to be eaten with the fingers.
THE CHOP 9F The Helix Quartier | 0 2003 6275 facebook.com/thechopbkk | daily 10am-10pm
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TERAOKA GYOZA - Gaga for Gyoza You can find gyoza at just about any Japanese restaurant in town, but not so many places focus solely on the one-bite nuggets of umami as a main dish. But that is precisely the arena in which Teraoka Gyoza specializes. The interiors at the flagship Teraoka Gyoza, located on the B floor at EMQuartier, is characteristic of modern izakaya style, reflecting the value that Japanese culture places on minimalism as a design principle. A wooden sign with “Teraoka Gyoza” written in Kanji shares space with a black and white restaurant logo featuring the image of owner/chef Teraoka Yuichi, seven-time “Gyoza Champion” at the Gyoza Stadium in Tokyo (yes, that’s a real thing). One gyoza is never enough here. Start with the Mentai-Cheese Gyoza (B209), a steamed and pan-fried chicken thigh gyoza dressed in Mentaiko (codfish) roe and sizzling melted cheese. And the cheese is so molten you can do the stretch-test to see how high you can get it to go. Salmon Ikura Gyoza (B229), exclusive to the EMQuartier branch, comes boiled and dressed in a creamy mushroom sauce with salmon and its roe on top. The rich mushroom sauce enhances the taste of the chicken inside the gyoza, and the salmon and its roe give it a fresh, salty kick to finish. And although slightly pungent, the flavour of the sauce matches well with the ingredients inside the dough. bangkok101.com
While gyoza is the star of the show, there are plenty of other items beyond the dumpling. Among these are a standout Yuzu Shoyu Ramen (B219), exclusive to this branch. The soup is made with an umami-rich katsuo (bonito) broth, flavoured with light Shoyu, garnished with aromatic Yuza citrus zest, and topped with chicken chashu, bamboo shoots, mizuna leaves, and a marinated soft-boiled egg. The homemade wheat noodle is cooked al dente, achieving a nice firm texture and chewy bite. A dish made for winter—or the arctic chill of the mall’s air conditioning units. Another non-gyoza dish quickly becoming a must-try is the Saba Aburi (B195), a large fillet of marinated mackerel served with fresh seaweed. The chef comes to the tableside, whips out his blowtorch, and sears the surface of the fillet, changing the texture, adding a charred taste to the fish, and giving it all a rich aroma. Add lime and wasabi to experience the full range of flavours. A portrait of Mr Teraoka is printed on the glass in which peach-infused mineral water, Momo Tennensui (B95), is served. So you can tell him domo arigato gyoza-imashita after every bite.
TERAOKA GYOZA BF The EMQuartier | 0 2261 0238 facebook.com/teraokagyoza | daily 10am-10pm
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sanpellegrino recommends FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. www.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751
GIANNI There is no shortage of spineless, inconsistent, and frankly hit-and-miss restaurants scattered around town. But there is also, thankfully, the likes of Gianni: a tried-and-trusted Italian joint tucked down Soi Tonson, just a short walk from Chidlom BTS station, that has stuck to its traditionalist guns through good times and bad and— among Bangkok restaurateurs at least—become something of a byword for consistency. The expansive dining room, guarded by two classical statues and filled with soft, flattering light, has a modern Mediterranean atmosphere. Throughout its twenty years in business, though, the star attraction has always been the titular Gianni Favro: an imposing yet warm and avuncular presence almost as well known for looking after his guests as he is cooking for them. Though he hails from the north of Italy, and pays homage to that fact with no shortage of risottos and other heavy, hearty dishes, his menu is resolutely PanItalian, drawing in the fresher, lighter flavours of the south too. Of a lunchtime or evening, he might recommend you start with, say, an octopus salad of cherry tomatoes and diced soft-boiled potato, all expertly seasoned and 88 | F EBRUA RY 2016
dressed with olive oil (B590++). Appetizers like this couldn’t really be any simpler—but nor could they be much more satisfying. “My cooking has evolved a bit over the years,” he explains during one of his visits to the table. “I’ve adopted some new techniques and new machines and new ways of doing things.” One of these new ways of doing things is sous-vide, which he deploys to masterly effect on sumptuous mains such as the pork belly with sweet and sour cabbage and mustard sauce (B590++). Starters aren’t the only things that are well-oiled here. Whether you ask for a glass of gutsy red to complement your fall-off-the-bone lamb shank braised in red wine (B590++), lean over the table to steal a forkful or three of your date’s sea urchin pasta with burrata cheese (B890++), or finish with a plate of strong cheeses and fig jam (B490++), every aspect of the Gianni’s experience smacks of passion, precision, and experience—exactly what you expect from reliably refined Italian cooking.
GIANNI RISTORANTE 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | 0 2252 1619 giannibkk.com | daily 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm
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street eats
eat like
Nym
Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel
BANYA
GRANDMUM’S HOME AWAY FROM HOME
I
’ve been going to Banya for so long that I’ve seen the place move from Sukhumvit to the suburbs. But even though it’s a little far from home now, in the Tiwanon area of Nonthaburi, I always make time to visit when I know what I want. Banya is one of my favourite Thai restaurants, bar none. When I have serious eaters in town, this is where we go. The setting of the restaurant looks almost exactly the same as it did before it packed up and moved locations. Set in a lovely two-story house, nothing is overdone, from interior to exterior. The upstairs is the family room while the ground floor is the foodie heaven, although it retains the homey feel with colonial-style tiles and vintage furniture. As soon as I stepped in, I was greeted by the sweet, gentle sounds of old Thai music, luk krung, bringing me back to my childhood. It was as if I were part of the family. I’ve eaten at Banya many times in the past, and several times since the move. The challenge is always getting out of my comfort zone of familiar tastes. But this time, I 90 | F EBRUA RY 2016
succeeded. I ordered khao chae (the traditional fragrant rice with cold, perfumed water eaten around Songkran) and khaeng keiw wan luk chin pla krai (green curry with fish meatballs) with roti. I also ordered a couple of items that were new to me, even though they were some of Banya’s original dishes, mee kati and khanom cheen namprik. Mee kati is a familiar dish from older times, something you would have had on the side of the street as a quick savoury snack. It normally has a pink colour and looks something like a younger sister of pad thai. But once I had the first bite, I flipped—this was no relative of pad thai, not even close! This angel-hair like noodle was divine. There was a complexity to it, a deeper dimension in taste. The sauce had been prepared before it was stirred in the dish, so the flavour didn’t come from nam pla (fish sauce) or anything you could pull from the shelf and pour in as seasoning. It had the creamy taste of coconut milk, the tang of tamarind juice, the sweetness of palm sugar, and the bite of tao jiew khao (fermented whole soybeans), which provided a flavour similar to miso paste. The khanom cheen namprik was an equally stunning combination of flavours, with rice noodles, fresh vegetables, lightly fried leaves, boiled egg, and the namprik sauce. The beauty in the sauce was the harmony of sweet and sour notes with the crusted peanut sauce. A hint of kaffir lime took it to the next level. I took a first bite with a little bit of each element and couldn’t peel the smile off my face. Banya’s recipes have been passed down the generations, carrying on the family’s distinctive flavours and style. Go with a group and plan to spend long time lounging after the meal, chatting over one of the many desserts with a glass of herbal tea or coffee.
Banya is located at 64/51 moo 1 Tiwanon Rd, Nonthaburi 10110. It’s next to Soi Rewadee closer to the intersection with Khae Lai Road. Take the expressway from town to Ngamwongwan. It’s open for lunch and dinner and closed every third Monday of the month. Call 0 2591 0315 for more information.
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open daily launch 11:30 a.m 14:00 p.m. afternoon tea break 14:00 p.m. 18:00 p.m. dinner 18:00 p.m. 23:00 p.m.
Italian Restaurant
Galleria Milano Italian Restaurant 66/4 Sukhumvit Rd., Soi 20 Mille Malle Millennium Residence Klongtoei, Bangkok 10110 Tel. 02-6634988 ristorantegalleriamilano@gmail.com www.galleriamilanorestaurant.com
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in the kitchen
CHEF ZRA JIRARATH talks to John Krich This month’s column is a misleading misnomer, false advertising through no fault of our own. There is no way to get insider’s access to the kitchen at Aston, because the centrepiece of the entire place is one open kitchen that in itself must be twice or more the prime Sukhumvit square footage than the seating area itself. In fact, patrons will feel almost like they’ve entered a TV studio for the filming of some cooking show or “Iron Chef” competition. Set in a second-floor glassed-in cube that’s dimly lit and starkly utilitarian, diners are offered two long wooden bars and eat directly facing the gleaming prep areas, so as to be served and pampered directly by Chef Zra Jirarath. With a sophistication belying his years, a concentrated devotion to cooking that makes his Thai smile slow to develop, and the cocky, diminutive style and air more befitting a pro motorcycle racer than a gourmand, this locally-trained yet surprisingly worldly young creator is in full control of Aston—the classy English handle for the 92 | F EBRUA RY 2016
place, but a play on his Thai nickname of “Ton.” That’s enough of a draw, and a thrill, in a town that has yet to spawn enough truly chef-driven, one-man establishments. But what’s even better is that the real star of the nightly show at Aston isn’t the ubiquitous, laser-focused Zra-man himself, but his conspicuously meticulous Franco-EuroJapan-esque fare—the food, the whole food, and nothing but the food. As in the best restaurants of both Europe and Japan, there’s no choice here, nothing a la carte—it’s an undemocratic pris fixe dinner pre-planned and preselected by the resident kitchen tyrant, and never was dictatorship made so easy to digest. A cavalcade of mini-plates appears, each more beautifully composed and succulently perfect than the last, reminiscent of Sydney’s Tetsuya and other modern greats. At B3500, more with wine pairings, Chef Zra’s handiwork may seem expensive, though not by the time bangkok101.com
in the kitchen
you plough through all a stuffing replete with subtle touches. Because of the price, the Chef rues, “I still don’t get enough locals—but an awful lot of what you’d call serious food tourists, from Hong Kong and places like that.” If there’s one criticism to be made, it’s more in the area of backhanded compliment. So highly organized are the various ovens, chillers, and hidden pantries of the Aston kitchen, with each night’s cooking plotted out like some army invasion or lesson in logistics, that there isn’t much of a show to watch. No flaring-up flames, no last-minute screw-ups, none of the bipolar freneticism of the usual dinner “rush.” Says Chef Zra of his philosophy, “When you stress out, the dishes will never come out good.” Have we entered a lab, or a library, as much as anything else? The chef admits that much of his off-duty time is spent getting inspired by “a collection of cookbooks that reaches to the ceiling.” But all that disorder is neatly out of sight, and with Ton doing the serving, you hear not only about his creative process—or share in his evident pride—but also how the direct approach of kitchen-to-counter “eliminates travel time” and keeps the dishes that much warmer and fresher. It seems that nothing has been left to chance here, from the unusual home-baked egg-twist challah bread to a dessert selection of rare and intensely fragrant French bangkok101.com
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cheeses. Facing this kitchen, there’s nothing much to see beyond the artwork that is the next plate, not much to do but submit and open one’s mouth. No pretentious titling here, each dish is called by its prime ingredient. One razor clam, bathed in galangal and a unique shell brother, is enough of a starter to cause a stir of anticipation among all the sense. A nest of cold capellini is topped with a vinegary seaweed pesto that’s so much tastier than it sounds. The ceviche is Nobu-level, informed with wild flowers and basil oil. How many other eateries in Thailand would go out of their way to source Mediterranean monkfish or handle it with such care? And the single slab of French Anjou pigeon, perhaps unappealing to some, comes up to the satisfying level of a filet mignon. The obligatory foie gras with tamarind almost seems an afterthought. And the “black rice” and passion fruit comes as a parting homage to the realities of Chef Zra’s homeland, and actually outdoes any and all street dessert variations.
ASTON DINING ROOM &BAR 68 Sukhumvit 31 | 08 4551 5559, 0 2102 2323 astonbkk.com | Mon-Sat 6.30pm-1am
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made in thailand
Amantee
Adding Art to Artisanal Bread BY PONGPHOP SONGSIRIARCHA
N
early two years ago, the Nang Linchi neighbourhood began to notice the soothing scent of freshly baked bread wafting in the air around Chan Kao Road. It was coming from Amantee, an organic bakery opened by entrepreneur Gilles Sandre in 2014 in partnership with Benoit Fradette, a master bread craftsman—one of the best in Aix-en-Provence—and Jonathan Valdman, Fradette’s protégé. Having moved from suburban Chaengwattana, the arrival of Amantee meant high-quality bread and pastries were finally available in one of the city’s lesser-heralded expat communities. The bakers make fresh bread and pastries the old-fashioned way: by hand, with scrupulous attention to detail, and using high-quality, nutritious ingredients. These include stone ground, cold milled, unbleached, and unbromated flours, all organic, with no added chemicals. Disciples of Hippocrates’ motto, “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food,” the trio don’t just pay lip service to the importance of eating well. “We prefer a long and natural fermentation of the dough,” says Sandre, who believes that poor eating habits can lead to chronic ailments like allergies. To that end, loaves of bread often incorporate unmodified ancient cereals, including einkorn, one of the oldest kinds of domesticated wheat that’s better tolerated by the human digestive system. And, speaking to their relationship with the products they use, neither Fradette nor Valdman nor 94 | F EBRUA RY 2016
Sandre relies on recipes, scales, or timers. When the dough is ready, they simply know. “We just observe and listen to what the dough needs [on a given day],” explains Sandre. “We mix depending on the weather. The humidity is never the same from one day to the next.” Amantee’s creations range from beautiful baguettes made with organic wheat to butter croissants and brioches. Rarer finds include Kamut flour bread with goat milk, made with an ancient flour native to Iran (Kamut is also called Khorasan) that has a nutty flavour and buttersmooth texture, and an Incan bread with quinoa and amaranth. The most popular item, says Sandre, is “La Bure du Prêcheur,” a round loaf made with whole einkorn flour as well as golden and brown flax seeds. Recently, Amantee launched a second branch at EMQuartier, offering their artisanal breads, as well as butters and cheeses from Jean Yves Bordier, wine from Wine Garage, and pastries from Issaya La Patisserie—although it lacks the same homey feel as the flagship, which also deals in antiques and artwork. And in March, Sandre plans to open another branch opposite Ruam Rudee Village. Amantee’s products are also available at Bangkok’s weekend farmers markets.
AMANTEE 2240/12 Chan Kao Rd | 08 1814 0920 facebook.com/amanteebkk | Tues-Sun 7am-7pm
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SOUL SCIENCE
The Soulful Science of Thai Cuisine: Galangal The Thai culinary repertoire has always balanced art and science. At Ruen Urai – “the House of Gold” – dishes are prepared with passion and flair based on an intimate knowledge of ingredients and their flavours, textures, and aromas. Paying homage to the herbal medicine doctor who originally resided in the century-old golden teakwood house in which Ruen Urai is located, our Thai gourmet voyage continues to explore zesty herbs and spices and their meanings and usage. Through their chemistry and harmony, alchemy is created. Galangal comes in a whole rhizome, cut, or powdered. The young shoots are pale pink and more flavourful and tender than the older ones. In its raw form, it tastes spicier and stronger than common ginger. The whole fresh rhizome is very hard, so slicing it requires a sharp knife. A mixture of galangal and lime juice is used as a tonic in parts of Southeast Asia. Being a stimulant and carminative, it is especially useful in indigestion, inflammation, and blood circulation. To help curb nausea, its powder can be used as snuff and its oil in perfumery. Grilled river prawns in spicy galangal dressing releases a powerful flavour and inimitable jungle fragrance of fresh galangal.
Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel opens from 12 noon to 11 p.m. 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com
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listings CHINESE BAI YUN 59F Banyan Tree Bangkok, South Sathorn Rd 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet offers high-quality ingredients you can actually savour.
CHEF MAN Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn, 33/1 South Sathorn Rd | 09 3135 5539 | chefmanrestaurant.com | Lunch 11.30am2.30pm, Dinner 6pm-10pm Cantonese classics in all their glory at this posh venue beloved for its dim sum and Peking duck.
LIU 3F Conrad Bangkok, 87 Wireless Rd | 0 2690 9999 | conradhotels3.hilton.com | 2pmmidnight A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes.
MEI JIANG The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2861 2888 | peninsula.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Widely regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants in town, Mei Jiang has built a loyal following for its dim sum, fresh classics, and behind-thescenes “Chef’s Table” concept.
SHANG PALACE 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 0 2236 7777 | shangri-la.com 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is elegant, but, more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts.
FRENCH CHEZ PAPE 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2255 2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in 96 | F EBRUA RY 2016
the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed.
J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN U Sathorn Bangkok, 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli | 0 2119 4899 | jaime-bangkok.com The classic cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You might even find yourself trying to re-create certain ones the next day.
LE BOEUF Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair, 60 Soi Langsuan | 093 971 8081 | leboeufgroup.com The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: highquality steak liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core.
L’APPART 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Soi | 08 5924 1565 | sofitel.com 7pm-midnight One of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s penthouse. Traditional cuisine charts an adventurous new course.
INDIAN BAWARCHI Level B, InterContinental Chidlom, 973 Ploenchit Rd | 0 2656 0383 | bawarchiindian. com | 11am-midnight The kind of curries you’ve been missing. Rich, buttery, decadent, and delicious.
RANG MAHAL 26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 0 2261 7100 | rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm Meaning “palace of colours,” there sure is a courtly air about the place, down to the refined, delicate food. The proceedings go up a notch when the kebabs and curries come out.
INTERNATIONAL 22 KITCHEN & BAR 946 Thanon Rama IV | 0 2200 9000 | dusit. com | Bar 4pm-Midnight, Dinner 6pm-10pm Impeccable meals from the Pacific Rim, bridging Peruvian, West Coast American, Japanese, and Taiwanese cuisine. Led by bangkok101.com
listings the exuberant, innovative Nikolas Ramirez, this restaurant is one not to miss.
BARSU Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2649 8358 | barsubangkok.com | Open daily 10am-11pm A former “drink, dine, dance” destination turned into a modern gastro lounge with a playful menu and a philosophy of rustic “down-to-earth food at down-to-earth prices.”
CELLAR 11 WINE BAR & BISTRO 71/1 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 5833 | cellar11.com | 6pm-midnight A spacious, stylishly refurbished restaurant split over two floors—three if you count the well-stocked wine cellar. The menu draws mostly from French and Italian. Not a bad choice for a nice meal amid the ruckus of the soi.
COCONUT TERRACE Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside, Charoenkrung Rd | 0 2688 1000 | ramamaplazamenamriverside.com | daily 11am-11pm This small hotel outlet that seems nearly an afterthought takes an equally compact menu—five starters, a few soups, a few fish, and meat mains—and makes big flavours and fun from its mission to straddle guests’ tastes and the East-West divide.
CREPES & CO 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also CentralWorld) | 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com 9am-11pm The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat.
DEAN & DELUCA GF EmQuartier, The Waterfall Quartier 0 2261 0464 | deandeluca.co.th | daily 10am10pm Dean & Deluca cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients.
EAT ME Soi Pipat 2, Silom | 0 2238 0931 eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm-1am Run by the innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked bangkok101.com
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among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town.
ELEMENTS 25F The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com | 6pm-10.30pm An imposing space with a list billed as “modern logical cuisine,” translated as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into an a la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option.
HYDE & SEEK GF Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee 0 2168 5152 | hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am A superior gastro-bar that delivers in both drinks and food. The cocktails, in particular, draw a varied after-work crowd to the stools that surround the chunky bar.
MONDO GF Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | 7am-11pm Styled after popular neighbourhood salumerias (delis) and formaggerias (cheese shops) found on street corners throughout Italy. The food here is bitesized and meant to be shared.
MOODZ 308 Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2170 8440 facebook.com/moodzthailand | 5pm-Midnight With a menu that riffs on modern European cuisines, leaning heavily on Italian for inspiration, this blue-and-gold beauty is a fine addition to Thong Lo’s urban dining scene.
QUINCE Sukhumvit Soi 45 | 0 2662 4478 quincebangkok.com | 11.30am-late Serves straightforward food: farmhouse presentation, not too many flavours, focusing on quality ingredients and letting it fly. The chef buys sustainable goods— local, when possible—and changes the menu frequently.
RED OVEN Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com | 6.30pm-10.30pm Styled as a World Food Market, this 7thfloor all-day dining venue, named after the restaurant’s red Molteni oven, offers dishes reminiscent of traditional street food with a contemporary twist in buffet F EBRUA RY 2016 | 97
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listings
spreads. On weekends, the restaurant puts on a scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet.
TABLES GRILL Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants, and the menu, billed as pan-European, takes full advantage of the theatre. As entertaining as it is satisfying.
THE DISTRICT Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | marriott.com | 6pm-11pm The name of the restaurant refers to New York’s meat packing district. That shines through in the menu as well as the impressive cocktails. The highlight at is the seafood. Lobster, prawns, oysters, scallops, crab—you name it.
THE GIRL AND THE PIG 5F, Central Embassy | 0 2160 5924 | facebook. com/thegirlandthepig | daily 10am-10pm No place is more surprising, or more in keeping with the international theme, than The Girl and The Pig. Here is a perfect spot for everything from ample brunches to romantic dates.
THE KITCHEN TABLE 2F, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd 0 2344 4000 | whotels.com/Bangkok | 9am10pm A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Good food
and an ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles.
ITALIAN APPIA 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2261 2056 | appiabangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6.30pm-11pm Amazing Roman-style cuisine that, to the benefit of diners, is limited to a small menu. Extremely popular, and with good reason.
AZZURRO 253/1 Sukhumvit 31 | 0 2003 9597 | facebook. com/azzurrorestaurant Azzurro is a new Italian addition to the bustling food street. The extensive menu of this quaint, two-story restaurant is inspired by the flavours of the different regions of Italy.
DON GIOVANNI
JOJO The St Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2207 7777 | stregis.com/bangkok | noon3pm, 6pm-11pm One of the few Italian outlets proudly flying the flag for Venetian fare, with ingredients imported from the region conjuring authentic flavours of the Veneto. The restaurant has a magnificent wine cellar, too.
LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA Terrace 49, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 labottega.name | Mon 5.30-11pm, Tue-Sun 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-11pm A relaxed, welcoming space with indooroutdoor seating. Chef Luca updates the menu regularly and orders produce from Italy every fortnight. It’s all rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion.
ROSSINI’S
1695 Phaholyothin Rd, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok | 0 2541 1234 centarahotelsresorts.com The menu is full of home-style recipes, the concept rarely straying from traditional Italian. Along with neo-classical décor, the culinary approach lends Don Giovanni a decorous air befitting its operatic name.
GALLERIA MILANO
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2653 0333 | sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 6pm-10.30pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The menu has lots of modern touches that reimagine traditional Italian styles. Also has more reasonable wine prices than many restaurants in this bracket, promising “top shelf wines at cellar prices.”
SENSI
Mille Malle, Sukhumvit 20 | 0 2663 6715 millemalle.com | daily 6pm-midnight; Mon-Fri 3pm-5pm An Italian restaurant in the hands of Italians, where the pride is tasted in every bite, serves as the inspiration for a restaurant aiming to conquer the heart of Bangkok.
1040 Naradhiwas Soi 17, Yaek 5 | 0 2676 4466 sensibangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight Intense flavours spun from fresh produce, complemented by sophisticated reductions and emulsions. The interplay between rich and zesty, complexity and lightness, results in simply amazing creations.
Kiosk@Thebarkyard Sukhumvit soi 26 Follow us on instagram : kioskcafe 65 Sukhumvit soi 26 (soi Thanpuying), Klongtoey, Bangkok. Tel : 02 259 4089 www.kiosk-cafe.com facebook:kioskcafe
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listings SCALINI Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. For example, the antipasti retain a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced twists.
JAPANESE BENIHANA Avani Atrium Bangkok, 1880 Petchaburi Rd 0 2718 2023 | avanihotels.com | daily lunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6-10.30pm At the centre of every table, and the Benihana experience, is a hot grill, where a chef cooks for you, stimulating appetites with a deft and close-range slicing of onions, zucchini, shrimp, pork, steak— even the restaurant’s signature fried rice.
HAMA-ICHI Legacy Suites, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 29, Klongtoey-Nua | 0 2662 3376 | facebook.com/ hamaichibangkok | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight, Sun 4pm-11pm Almost 300 dishes. Dive right in to tempura, seared salmon, wasabi-paired sashimi, and a number of hotpots, dining side-by-side with salarymen at the long bar or in private at one of the tables sectioned off by bamboo screens.
KISSO Fl 8, The Westin Grande, 259 Sukhumvit 19 0 2207 8000 | kissojapaneserestaurant.com daily 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Becoming modern mastery of timehonoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, the restaurant has offers the Kisso way of Japanese cuisine for two decades as the place for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok.
KOM-BA-WA 39/19 Soi Suan Phlu, Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 3775 kombawa.com Meaning “good evening” in Japanese Kom-Ba-Wa occupies a shophouse on hip Suan Phlu. The dishes are a modern interpretation of traditional cuisine. Interested in Sushi and Sashimi? The best bet is order the chef’s choice platters.
TAIHEI 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm There’s a real commitment to quality bangkok101.com
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leading the charge at Taihei. The food is beautiful, and it tastes great, to boot. Honest-to-goodness Japanese served from atmospheric heights.
YUUTARO 5F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloenchit Rd 0 2160 5880-1 | yuutaro.com | daily 11am10.30pm Raw food stars. Sushi and sashimi—toro, engawa, uni, and hotate, a staggering ninety percent of the seafood selected from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo.
ZUMA GF, 159 Rajadamri Road | 0 2252 4707 zumarestaurant.com | 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm This izakaya-style joint delivers. Fish and beef get equal treatment, each prepared with duteous touch. Dishes come out in no precise order and can be shared or eaten individually.
MIDDLE EASTERN AL SARAY 4F, Bangkok Plaza Building, Bangkok General Hospital, Soi Soonvijai 7 | 0 2319 4388 alsarayrestaurant.com | daily 9am-10pm What Al Saray serve here are authentic, traditional Lebanese recipes passed down from generation to generation. The only place in Bangkok where you can find shanklishe - an aged, spice-coated cheese made in-house.
BEIRUT Sukhumvit Soi 2, Ploenchit Center | 0 2656 7377 | beirut-restaurant.com | 10am-10pm A Bangkok classic serving classic Lebanese dishes at reasonable prices. The hummus and falafel are praiseworthy.
253/2 Sukhumvit 31, Klongton Nua, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 Tel: +66(0)2 003 9597, +668 1535 4578 Mob: +668 9894 6516 Opening hours Monday to Thursday 6pm - 11pm Friday to Sunday 12noon - 3pm, 6pm - 11pm
AzzurroRestaurantBangkok www.azzurrorestaurant.asia
MEXICAN EL DIABLO’S BURRITOS 330 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2259 4140 | Mon-Fri 4pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11.30am-11pm The enormous burritos are the stars of the show. They make their own tortillas on the premises, too. The tacos are particularly impressive. The salsa and toppings are light, refreshing, with just enough spice.
MÉJICO 2F, Groove @ Central World | 0 2252 6660 mejico.asia | 11am-12am The menu tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine F EBRUA RY 2016 | 99
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that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.
TACOS Y SALSA 49 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 08 6346 0822, 08 6346 0822 | tacosnsalsa.com | Daily 3pm-12am A brightly-coloured haunt, decorated with the owner’s own artwork, serving up authentic Mexican food and tasty margaritas. A great spot to satisfy any Mexican cravings.
SEAFOOD CRAB AND CLAW
The chef and founding partners are proud of their Catalonian heritage, and it shows in the incredible tapas on the menu, from prawns in aioli to crema catalana and the traditional Sunday paella.
OSITO 888/23-24 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd 0 2651 4399 | ositobkk.com | Mon-Fri 10.30am-12am, Sat-Sun 10am-12am New York meets Madrid. A neighbourhood Dean& DeLuca during the day, with its own smoker, churro machine, and deli sandwiches like the Reuben, it morphs into a Spanish tapas bar-cumrestaurant at night.
Fl 7, Helix Bldg, EMQuartier | 09 6197 5769 facebook.com/crabandclaw | daily 10am-10pm Ensconced on an upper curve of the EMQuartier, Crab and Claw features the perfect appetite (and spending power) for “New England-style” lobster, clams, and all the trimmings.
THE OYSTER BAR 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 | 0 2212 4809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know a restaurant takes seafood seriously when several pages of the menu are devoted entirely to oysters. Big appetites should try the seafood platter: a pile of oysters, scallops, shrimp, crab, caviar, and more.
SPANISH EL CHIRINGUITO 221 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd | 08 6340 4791 | facebook.com/elchiringuitobangkok | Thu-Sat 6pm-12am On the surface, a tapas bar. Small dishes and high-quality alcohol, a space filled with antiques: it’s an implant from Madrid dropped neatly into the Bangkok beehive.
BARCELONA GAUDÍ Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2661 7410 | barcelona-thai.com | Tue-Sun 11am11pm 10 0 | F EBRUA RY 2016
THE U.S. STEAKHOUSE 156-158 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 08 7993 3527 theussteakhouse.com | Tue-Sat 4pm-10.30pm Start with a big bowl of chunky, homemade clam chowder, before moving on to the main attraction: flame-broiled steaks, including New York strip loin, rib eye, filet mignon, and Australian T-bone.
THAI BAAN
RAW BAR 440/9 Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2713 8335 | facebook. com/TheRawBarBKK | Mon-Fri 5.30pm-12am, Sat-Sun 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-12am Oysters, tartare, carpaccio, ceviche: it’s all raw here, and it’s all very good. A nice low-key spot to shuck some shellfish and hang out with friends.
PRIME Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoen Nakorn Rd 0 2442 2000 | hilton.com | 6pm-11pm Some of the best flame-grilled steaks in the city, now abetted by high-quality seafood. It’s a welcome sophistication, befitting the sweeping views over the Chao Phraya.
CRAB AND CLAW F7, Helix Bldg, EMQuartier | 09 6197 5769 | facebook.com/crabandclaw | daily 10am-10pm Ensconced on an upper curve of the EMQuartier, with paintings of lobsters, crabs, and other underwater creatures, Crab and Claw is made for those with a major appetite (and spending power) for “New England-style” lobster, clams, and all the trimmings. Don’t miss the trademark lobster roll.
STEAK & BURGER FIREPLACE GRILL STEAKHOUSE InterContinental Bangkok 973 Ploenchit Rd 0 2656 0444 ext.5505 | Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6.30pm-10.30pm This perennial favourite has all the attributes you’d expect in a renowned steakhouse, not least a superb selection of aged and chilled cuts from some of Australia’s top meat producers.
HAMILTON’S STEAK HOUSE 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2 | 0 2656 9440 arabesquebkk.com | 11am-2am Hamilton’s provides an undeniably pleasant spot to sit down for a few glasses of wine over lunch. Though steak is its bread and butter, this place puts together a surprisingly interesting seafood selection, as well.
139/5 Withayu Rd | 0 2655 8995 | baanbkk.com Wed-Mon 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm A restaurant offers traditional recipes collected from the chef’s family with the stylishly modern dining room and an open kitchen.
BASIL 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit | 0 2649 8366 | basilbangkok.com Sun-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6pm-10.30pm A glittering array of Thai favourites—it’s not over-the-top in innovation, but there isn’t a false note, either. This is Thai comfort food taken to a whole new plane.
BENJARONG Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 6pm-10pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The Dusit Thani’s signature Thai restaurant offers inventive dishes from the Kingdom’s annals, from north to south.
BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, the flagship sits in a gorgeous old mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish.
CHILI HIP Centara Watergate Pavilion Hotel, 567 Ratchaprop Rd | 0 2625 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com | 5pm-11pm daily bangkok101.com
listings Wide, unobstructed views from a perch over Pratunam, and a menu consisting mostly of authentic Thai and Asian flavours. There is almost no covered seating, so bear that in mind when the rains come.
CHON The Siam hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd | 0 2206 6999 thesiamhotel.com | 12.pm-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm Sits in one of three beautifully preserved wooden houses. A small home-style menu offers food worth returning for. Nice for a romantic evening.
ERR 394/35 Maharaj Rd | 0 2622 2291-2 | errbkk. com | Tues-Sun 11am-midnight As an old shophouse with the funkiest of tasteful trimmings, the restaurant takes its name from the most common Thai form of assent which mirrors the local experience of finding good food in low-key surroundings.
JIM THOMPSON HOUSE AND MUSEUM 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd | 0 2612 3601 jimthompson.com | Noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm The city’s number-two tourist attraction is home to a restaurant that pairs a sumptuous setting with surprisingly unusual Thai food. Factor in the generous happy hours, and there’s no reason to be sniffy about the place.
PASTE 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2392 4313 pastebangkok.com | Tue-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6pm-late A triumph, delivering with exceptional panache and serving a riff on modern Thai
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food that is not just instantly gratifying, but also truly memorable.
RUEN URAI The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd | 0 2266 8268 | ruen-urai.com | Noon-11pm Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest fresh ingredients.
SALA RATTANAKOSIN BANGKOK 39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin Island | 0 2231 2588 | salarattanakosin.com | 7am-10pm Thanks to the vistas, everyone here has a drink in one hand and a camera-phone in the other. The menu offers comfort food and a few Euro items, too. A major plus is the list of 25 wines by the glass.
SIAM WISDOM 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2260 7811 siamwisdomcuisine.com | Noon-2.30pm, 8pm-10.30pm Expertly refined flavours separated with elegance and delivered with brio. As the name suggests, Siam Wisdom delivers the best kind of culinary education.
STEVE CAFÉ AND CUISINE 68 Sri Ayudhaya Rd | 0 2281 0915, 0 2280 2989 | stevecafeandcuisine.com | Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 4.30pm-11pm, Sat-Sun 11.30am-11pm Given the number of mass-produced seafood gardens and tourist coffee shops exploiting the romance of the Chao Phraya, what’s remarkable about Steve is that they come pretty close to homemade.
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THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER The Jam Factory, 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2861 0953 | facebook.com/ TheNeverEndingSummer | Tue-Sun 11am11pm Located in Thonburi, occupying part of three old Chinese-Thai factories, the airy 70-seat eatery offers an extensive, changing menu inspired by the favourite childhood dishes of one of the owners.
VIETNAMESE LE DALAT Fl 7, EMQuartier | 0 2269 1000 | ledalatbkk. com | daily 10am-10pm The newest branch of stately Le Dalat finds it in unusual territory—a high-end shopping mall—but its fresh Vietnamese fare is still as impeccable as ever.
SAIGON RECIPE 46/5 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2662 6311 | saigon-recipe.com | 11am-3pm, 5am10pm The well-designed dishes here reward closer inspection, as flavours reveal themselves in prescribed order. The portions are perfect for sharing.
XUAN MAI 351/3 Thong Lo | 0 2185 2619 xuanmairestaurant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30 There’s some overlap with Thai food in the ingredients and flavours, but the exquisite combinations at this much-loved shophouse are subtle and more complex than many Thai dishes. A Thong Lor stand-out.
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NIGHTLIFE (DRAG) QUEENS OF POP
If you didn’t score a ticket to see Madonna in concert, don’t worry—you can have the next best thing at Dragsweet: Bitch, We’re Madonna. Brought to you by the nightlife magnates Dudesweet, the party takes place at Tapas, something of a legend on Silom Soi 4, on February 6. It should be a wild night. The dress code is “Madonna,” for what it’s worth, and that goes for women and men alike. Visit facebook.com/busypartyboy for the latest details.
FUNGUS AMONGUS
Top Thai bands will pop up everywhere at the cheekily named “Hed Sod 3” (“hed sod” means “fresh mushrooms” in Thai). Starting at 4pm, Paradise Bangkok (the international molam band), Slur, aire, Soundlanding, and morningsurfers will take stage at Voice Space Hub of New Gens (Viphavadi-Rangist Road, near Inthamara Soi 14 and not far from BTS Ari). Tickets are B1000 at the door. For more information and tickets, visit allthaiticketthailand.com.
HOLOTONE ELECTRONICA
Berlin-based Holotone label lands at Studio Lam (Sukhumvit 51) on February 13 with a night of hard-driving techno called Holotone Bangkok Showcase. Launched by artist INNER8, the label spans the globe. Playing live are INNER8 from Berlin, whose sonically rich 4-track EP comes out in March; Eexxppoann from South Korea; Japanese producer Koichi Shimizu of SO::ON Dry FLOWER and Revirth; and Nolens. Volens. Tickets are B350 and doors open 8pm. For more details, go to facebook.com/studiolambangkok.
YOU SAY YOU WANT A REVOLUTION
The much-anticipated Revolution II takes place at Live RCA on February 27. At the time of this writing, the lineup and finer details have yet to be announced, but if Revolution I is any indication, this second phase of the project should offer a variety of sounds, from hip-hop and trap to techno and tropical house, spread out among a few different zones. And, of course, a visual feast for the senses—fire shows, lasers, and more. For the lineup and prices, check facebook. com/revolutionbkk.
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review
VERTIGO TOO - Banyan Tree’s Slickest Sky-high Space Yet Neither an open-air rooftop bar, nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brick-walled basements, Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two milieus. Throw in twinkling faux starlight, lacquered black fixtures, and complementing shades of galactic purple, it then rises to a higher stratosphere. Vertigo Too is more or less symmetrical. Bisecting the venue is one tall table that seats 12, a semi-enclosed VIP area with leather chairs, and a small alcove where bands and DJs set up. To either side are smaller tables seating four, loungers for two, and, above them, chairs next to the windows on narrow mezzanines, providing a crow’s nest view of the floor as well as the city streets below. In other words, sit with the company of one or many, with or without a sky-high view. As night settles in, Vertigo Too takes on the air of a jazz club, where the post-work crowd goes to roll up sleeves and sip whisky cocktails. Later, the vibe picks up when a DJ takes the decks. But with the lights low and music soft, the place lends itself to chatter over dishes to share. Cod and truffle Parmesan chips with Sriracha chilli mayonnaise (B400) are a fine snack for the occasion—surprisingly hard to put down, probably owing to the truffle and mayo—but look to the full menu to fill up. Designed by chefs from all the hotel’s restaurants, the cuisine is “cross-cultural,” although the Thai element in 10 4 | F EBRUA R 2016
that equation comes through strongest. Try the tom yum spring rolls (B510), which nail the flavour of Thailand’s most prominent soup. And they’re fun to eat, served as they are in one-bite portions on large silver spoons. Likewise, the tuna tartare (B510) with avocado mousse and radish mayo are succulent Asian tapas. Even hardier fare—an outstanding pork belly (B470), tea-smoked lamb medallions with a jus you could just drink with a straw (B550), a seafood basket swimming with Hokkaido scallops, river prawns, raw tuna, oysters, and more (B1350)—are made to share. The drinks list is virtually one full page of standout choices. Among them are The Hitchcock (B490), a blend of cucumber Tangueray, vermouth, elderflower honey, lemon, and soda, and the Smoke & Mirrors (B490), a masculine mix of bacon rye, maple, bitters, and Applewood smoke. Even the mocktails have a depth not usually achieved in alcoholfree beverages. And Kai, the award-winning mixologist from Hawaii, eagerly tailors off-the-menu drinks. Cosmological comparisons might be too easy, but even so Vertigo Too stands among the stars.
VERTIGO TOO Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 banyantree.com | daily 5pm-1am
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imbibe
Unlocking the “Wish Key Sour” at Theo Mio Settaphong Charoensiri Gets a Kick out of Chivas Regal Extra
Settaphong “New” Charoensiri is the fresh face in town. Literally and figuratively. The rising twentysomething mixologist arrived in Bangkok five months ago, when he left laid-back Koh Samui for the buzzing capital city to man the bar at InterContinental Bangkok’s Theo Mio. “For three years, I practically lived in the bar at InterContinental Samui to learn how to make cocktails,” he says. With his arrival, the casual ground-floor restaurant, perhaps best known as the brainchild of celebrity chef Theo Randall, is showing it has more up its sleeves than impeccable Italian food. As sunlight filters into Theo Mio on a pleasant Monday afternoon, New grabs a shaker, some lime juice, and a bottle 106 | F EBRUA RY 2016
of Chivas Regal Extra. At this time of day, with guests chatting at tables on the outdoor terrace and the sun’s glow bathing the blue and white canvas umbrellas, it’s as if Theo Mio were taken right out of a Roman piazza, a place just begging for a cocktail and good conversation. And inside, the ambiance is just as inviting, with tall trees hanging over tables and a woodfired oven in plain sight. Whilst New prepares the restaurant’s signature Wish Key Sour, Restaurant Manager Daniel Freismuth opens up about the relationship between cocktails and dining at Theo Mio. “More and more people are saying, ‘Hey, let’s start with a cocktail,’” he says, taking note of the groups of guests inside and outside now gathering for pre-dinner drinks. “The bangkok101.com
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Wish Key Sour has our creative touch, but it looks good and sounds familiar, [and that] fits well with the whole concept of Theo Mio. We serve what we call ready-to-go food. It’s relaxed, it’s easy.” New measures 30 ml of simple syrup and drains it into the shaker. He measures equal amounts of lime juice, egg white, and Chivas Regal Extra and does the same. Then he drops in some ice. Finally, he pops a glass over the top and shakes. Slow, strong, deliberate shakes for ten seconds. “When your hand gets cold, you know you’re close,” he says. “And listen. When a cocktail is ready, it has this sound. Do it every day and you’ll learn to hear it.” When New pours the mix into a tumbler glass over ice, the egg white is perfectly frothy and sitting on top of the whisky-and-lime blend. As a finishing touch, he adds a drizzle of port wine. The port gives the Wish Key Sour a punch of flavour and a splash of colour while complementing the rich, fruity notes of Chivas Regal Extra, a Speyside blended Scotch whisky which uses malt whiskies aged in sherry casks from the Oloroso bodegas in Spain. It also adds a modern twist on the
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classic whisky sour recipe. Familiar yet refreshing, in tune with Theo Mio’s credo. “I once made seven or eight Wish Key Sours for one customer,” recounts New, who also recalls mixing 10 piña coladas in one night for a customer while he was working on Koh Samui. “I love seeing people react to my cocktails, [and] I guess he must have really liked what I was doing.” Both New and Daniel agree that ingredients make the drink, especially in a classic cocktail with fewer elements. Echoing a common refrain, Daniel says, “If you don’t use the best ingredients, such as Chivas Regal Extra or fresh lime juice, you’ll never get a good product.” And in New’s opinion, Thailand’s tropical climate yields certain advantages, including fresh seasonal fruit to use in whatever cocktail he’s working on—maybe one of his favourite coconut concoctions, or his rum, orange peel, and apple custard experiment. Whatever the choice, it’s clear that with New behind the bar, Theo Mio has skill to go with its style and spirit.
Wish Key Sour
• 30ml simple syrup • 30ml fresh-squeezed lime juice • 30ml egg white • 30ml Chivas Regal Extra Shake all ingredients and pour over ice in a tumbler glass. Finish with a drizzle of port wine. bangkok101.com
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listings
BARS 22 STEPS BAR Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Rd | 0 2207 4999 | hotelindigo.com/bangkok A great place to unwind, enjoying a cocktail or fine cigar while watching the world go by. Enjoy buy-one, get-one deals or free-flow drinks at B599 during happy hours from 5pm—9pm every day. Ladies’ night on Wednesday offers women two hours of free-flow sparkling wine from 9pm-11pm.
24 OWLS BY SOMETIMES 39/9 Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2391 4509 | 24owls.com | open 24 hours A bijou 24-hour bistro and bar where cocktails are a must. A delight by day and deep into the night, 24 Owls offers a unique round-the-clock dining option.
BAR 23 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 09 6145 9662 | facebook. com/bkkbar23 | 9pm-until very late A dingy dive favourite with bases in Asoke as well as Soi Nana, the artists’ community of Chinatown, where the soundtrack always changes and the crowd never fails to entertain.
BARLEY BISTRO 4F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 08 7033 3919 barleybistro.com | 5pm-late Check out the open-air rooftop, littered with fans, bean bags, and funky barley stalk sculptures. It’s a solid choice for post-work/pre-club cocktails.
BREW Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 0 2185 2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am See and be seen at this cool Thong Lo vanguard with well-stocked fridges and a healthy list of foreign beer and cider on tap. A beer-lover’s dream.
CHEAP CHARLIE’S Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2253 4648 cheapcharliesresort.com | Mon-Sat 5pm-12am A no-brainer meet-up spot drawing crowds of expats, NGO workers, and tourists in-the-know who fill up on cheap beers and gin and tonics before heading off to party.
CRAFT Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 3320, 08 1919 5349 craftbangkok.com | 2pm-12am Serving craft beer on draft in all its glory, this outdoor patio-bar plays host to food 108 | F EBRUA R 2016
trucks each weekend, spins good tunes, and, most importantly, operates over 40 taps.
DARK BAR Ekkamai 10, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2381 9896, 09 0528 4646 | facebook.com/darkbarbangkok Wed, Fri-Sat 9pm-2am A tiny and, well, dark bar serving beer and booze at cheap prices. It’s popular with hipsters and counter-culturists.
FACE BAR 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 0 2713 6048 | facebars. com | 11.30am-1am This visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim Thompson’s former mansion, a dimly-lit joint that summons deluxe drinkers with cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails all night long.
HOUSE OF BEERS Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 0 2392 3513 | houseofbeers.com | 11am-12am This Belgian-leaning bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapasstyle bar snacks.
JAM! 41 Soi Charoen Rat 1 | 089 889 8059 facebook. com/jamcafebkk | Tue-Sun 6pm-12am A cool, dive-y small bar in a formerly bar-less neighbourhood whose claims to fame are frequent cult movie nights and underground DJ sets.
MIKKELLER 26 Ekkamai Soi 10 Yaek 2 | 0 2381 9891 mikkellerbangkok.com | 5pm-12am An enclave for beer geeks, distinguished by its many dozens of taps and lush garden. A sure bet for anyone in search of a good—and hard-to-find—craft beer.
MOOSE Ekamai Soi 21 | 0 2108 9550 | facebook.com/ moosebangkok | Mon-Sat 6pm-2am A retro-inspired hipster bar decorated with flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads, giving it a living room-esque ambience. A preferred venue for all manner of underground DJ sets and live shows.
OSKAR BISTRO 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 3377 | oskarbistro.com | 4pm-2am
Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby, and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. Most people come for pre-club drinks.
SHADES OF RETRO Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor | 0 2714 9450 facebook.com/shadesofretrobar | 3pm-1am It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lo hot-spot stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and a grandmother’s attic of antiques.
SING SING THEATER Sukhumvit 45 | 09 7285 6888 | facebook.com/ singsingtheater | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am Tucked between Quince and Casa Pagoda on the sedate Sukhumvit 45, the collaboration of Ashley Sutton and Sanya Souvanna Phouma mashes together the disparate influences of the old Shanghai underworld and the dark and alien future.
SMALLS 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1 | 09 5585 1398 facebook. com/smallsbkk | Wed-Mon 8.30pm-2am Decorated with vintage furniture and art to give it a bohemian vibe, this favourite neighbourhood dive offers a wide selection of beers, wines by the glass, and hard-to-find liquors.
SWAY Arena 10, Thong Lor Soi 10 | 0 2711 6052 swaybkk.com | daily 6pm-2am Chicken wings, poutine, and ribs star on the menu, and craft beer on draft draw flocks of loyal beer drinkers.
THE ALCHEMIST 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 3549 2055 thealchemistbkk.com | Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight This stylish, stripped down drinking hole near Cheap Charlie’s draws its own loyal crowd, thanks to an excellent playlist on top of craft beer, assorted martinis, and some of the best mojitos in town.
THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB Sukhumvit 22 | 08 7000 0795, 08 0733 8438 fgc.in.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm A member’s only place where guests are always welcome, screening films in a tiny cinema on the second floor and serving reasonably priced drinks on the first.
TUBA 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 0 2711 5500 | design-athome.com | 11am-2am A Bangkok classic, room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch. Some come bangkok101.com
listings to snag a goofy tchotchke, but it works best as a bar with few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand.
VIVA AVIV River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 0 2639 6305 | vivaaviv. com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Reminiscent of a hip bar along Singapore’s Clarke Quay, with bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade. Think tropical maritime meets dashes of outright whimsy.
HEAVEN 20F Zen@CentralWorld, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com | Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am When golden bar lights up like a metal sun, Zen feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital, serving up balanced cocktails and a beautiful backdrop.
WTF 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 0 2626 6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am The coolest and most enduring shophouse bar in the city, decked out with old Thai movie posters and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. Marked by great cocktails, live gigs, art exhibitions, and a mix of artsy patrons.
BARS WITH A VIEW ABOVE ELEVEN 33F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2207 9300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack.
CLOUD 47 United Center, Silom Rd | 09 1889 9600 cloud47bangkok.com | daily 11am-1am A wallet-friendly rooftop bar in the bustling CBD that turns into a purple and blue neon fantasy at night.
LEAPFROG Galleria 10, Sukhumvit Soi 10 | 0 2615 0999 leapfrogbkk.com | 4.30pm-1am An art gallery, rooftop lounge, and restaurant wrapped up in a neat little package on the top of a boutique hotel offering a selection of world cuisine and drinks. bangkok101.com
time to come—when daylight fades, a live jazz band kicks in and the city lights up like a circuit-board.
SKY BAR/DISTIL 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 0 2624 9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, offering panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with new visitors as well as those intent on rediscovering it.
THE SPEAKEASY
WHISGARS 981 Silom Rd | 0 2661 3220 | whisgars.com 2pm-2am Whiskey and cigars are the focal points of this rapidly expanding branch. Each outlet is a little different, but all cater to the finer things in life.
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THE DRUNKEN LEPRECHAUN 4 Sukhumvit 15 | 0 2309 3255 thedrunkenleprechaun.com | 10am-1am Located on the ground floor of Four Points by Sheraton, this Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes and live sports screenings, and generous happy hours from 4pm until 8pm each day offer discounts on all kinds of drinks—the perfect partners for the pub’s complimentary “dips and dash.”
MOON BAR 61F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am An icon among rooftop bars, offering 360-degree views of the urban sprawl in smart surroundings. The perfect spot for honeymooners.
OCTAVE 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back punchy, refreshing cocktails. DJs spin house through the night, neatly setting the vein.
RED SKY 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com 6pm-1am The al fresco turret offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the
Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts. Wines are available at solid prices, and cocktails include home-made vodka infusions.
WOOBAR GF, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 0 2344 4131 | wbangkok.com | daily 9am-12am Chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, and spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release, or, better yet, a weekend party.
CLUBS FUNKY VILLA 225/9-10 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2711 6970 facebook.com/funkyvillabkk | 8pm-2am Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls in the front room, but most hit the fridge-cool dance hall to shake off the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs.
LEVELS 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 2308 3246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of the buzzy atmosphere.
MIXX DISCOTHEQUE President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd 0 2656 0382 | mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok 10pm-late Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets that lend a desert tent feel. F EBRUA RY 2016 | 109
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listings
ONYX RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd | 08 1645 1166 onyxbangkok.com | 8pm-2am An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. The kicker: a giant video screen looming over the DJ booth.
ROUTE 66 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | 0 2203 0936, 08 1440 9666 | route66club.com | 8pm-2am RCA’s longest surviving super-club, with three zones to explore, each with its own bar, look, and music policy. Crammed with dressed-to-kill young Thais.
SUGAR CLUB 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (next to the Australian Pub) | 08 2308 3246 | sugarclub-bangkok.com 9pm-2am A blend of the global clubbing DNA and an after-hours concept, featuring a Vaudevillian cast of dancers, entertainers, and big-name DJs.
THE CLUB 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 0 2629 1010 theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am This techno castle lends a fairy-tale vibe, with lasers and UV lights harking back to mid-90s trance raves. The music is loud, a full range of four-to-the-floor beats and cranium-rattling techno.
TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2258 3758 | titaniumclub.com | 6pm-1.30am Congenial hostesses clad in ao dai; a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly; over 90 varieties of vodka. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.
PUBS FLANN O’BRIEN’S 2194 Charoenkrung 72-74 Rd, Asiatique 0 2108 4005| flann-obriens.com | 3pm-12am A sweeping Irish-themed pub featuring daily drink specials, all-day breakfast menus, and live bands throughout the week.
MULLIGAN’S IRISH BAR 265 Khao San Road | 0 2629 4477 mulligansthailand.com | Always open A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more 110 | F EBRUA R 2016
refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music, ranging from rock to jazz and daylong happy hour deals.
THE BLACK SWAN Soi Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2229 4542 blackswanbangkok.com | 8am-late An amber-lit favourite that relocated to the hustle bustle area of Bangkok, Sukhumvit 19 that offers myriad drink deals and spectacular Sunday roasts as well as cocktail and beer.
THE DUBLINER 595/18-19 Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2204 1841-2 | thedublinerbangkok.com | daily 8am-12.30am Irish-themed and Irish-owned, this watering hole is preferred among expats for its generous happy hours and nighttime live music.
THE PICKLED LIVER Sukhumvit Soi 7/1, opposite Maxim’s Hotel 0 2651 1114 | thepickledliver.com | 3pm-late Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and many more make this landmark pub, now in its second incarnation, a perennial favourite.
THE PINTSMAN 332 United Center Building, Silom Rd 0 2234 2874 | facebook.com/thepintsman 11am-late A basement bar in Silom serving pints of draft beer and big plates of food. The requisite pool tables and live entertainment get this place hopping on weekends.
THE ROBIN HOOD Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 3390 robinhoodbangkok.com | 10am-12am All the pub essentials are covered: live sports, a chatty atmosphere, wood features, pints of draft beer and cider, and copious drink deals. A great place to start your night (or afternoon).
LIVE MUSIC ADHERE THE 13TH 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) | 08 9769 4613 6pm-midnight One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals.
APOTEKA 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this place has an old-school feel, an awesome line-up of live music, and a drink selection including beer and custom cocktails.
BROWN SUGAR 469 Phra Sumen Road | 08 9499 1378 brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night.
CAFÉ TRIO GF, Portico Complex, 31 Soi Lang Suan 0 2252 6929 | 6pm- 1am One of the only bars worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Loved for its jazz and art, a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars.
FAT GUT’Z
264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 0 27149 832 | fatgutz. com | 6pm-2am This saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people listening to live blues, indulging in carefully crafted cocktails, and drinking in the vague industrial-nautical theme.
MAGGIE CHOO’S Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd | 0 2635 6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos | Tue-Sun 6pm-2am The main decoration is the leggy cabaret girls, but the real attraction is the live jazz, some of the best the city has to offer. The atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens.
PARKING TOYS 14 Prasert-Manukitch Rd, Lat Phrao | 0 2907 2228 | parkingtoys.in.th | 7pm-2am A spacious garage-style venue, filled to the brim with random antiques, known for stellar live rock, ska, and rockabilly that runs into the early morning. Far out of town, but worth the trip.
SAXOPHONE 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Rd | 0 2246 5472 | saxophonepub.com | 6pm-2am A must-visit live music joint, dishing out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every night of the week. bangkok101.com
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HOUSE OF NARONG By April Nelson
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angkok does not lack for custom-made dress stores—or tailoring in general, for that matter. So what sets House of Narong apart? “Diligent attention to even the smallest detail,” says Narong Ketkew, who has designed one-of-a-kind evening, cocktail, and wedding dresses for over a decade at his shop on Nang Linchi Road. “The first thing I ask is, ‘What is the occasion, and what will be your level of importance?’” explains Narong. From that moment on the collaboration between client and designer unfolds, eventually giving birth to not just a dress but a wearable work of art, the likes of which grace runways as well as gala halls. And to the chagrin of his team of 25, every dress must pass his personal inspection, whether that means changing a hemline or deconstructing the dress and starting from scratch. In Narong’s words, “My customers are paying for a memory that will last a lifetime,” so every stitch merits such keen analysis. As an added perk, Narong also oversees a ready-to-wear collection in China and has recently launched a new online brand called CocoaBrown, which offers a variety of cocktail and party dresses for those who want a dress now and don’t mind passing up the hands-on tailoring and attention. But his vision doesn’t stop at one shop. The long-term goal is to make House of Narong more readily accessible to the overseas clients, starting with pop-up stores and online sales. “There were some hard years where I would make anything anyone asked, even a pin cushion, just to make ends meet,” says the designer, whose winding road has taken him from dead-end day jobs to night classes and, eventually, the Chananpattana International Design Institute (CIDI), where he studied for two years. But now, Narong won’t make just anything. “I refuse to copy what other designers have already made,” he says. “It just feels wrong.” Gone, too, are the days of making pin cushions for a paycheck. Hand-crafted dresses from House of Narong run between B20,000 and B30,000, on average, although the price depends on the service. House of Narong 63 Nang Linchi 3 Alley houseofnarong.com | 0 2286 9879 facebook.com/cocoabrownclothing
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feature
KITCHENWARE FOR THE HOME CHEF With such an extraordinary assembly of chefs in town for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, you might be feeling inspired to elevate your kitchen game
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tep away from the Pizza Pocket. Put down the strawberry slicer. Actually, go ahead and throw away the strawberry slicer. And avoid the late-night shopping channels while you’re at it. Being a master chef isn’t a matter of owning the latest gastronomic gadgets, but rather being able to identify quality products and use them
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well. To chop an onion like a pro, you need to own a knife that the pros use (and be able to properly chop an onion in the first place, but let’s assume you already know how to do that). Here are five multi-purpose kitchen tools to set you on course for home chef superstardom, and where to find them in Bangkok. bangkok101.com
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The Sous-Vide Machine
The Japanese Blade Thailand doesn’t necessarily have the source materials to ever make high-end cutlery. And Western products are often mass-produced, absent the quintessential human touch that distinguishes great knives from average ones. Japan, on the other hand, has a long tradition of skilled blacksmiths and cutlers who handcraft some of the finest blades in the world. Founded by a former chef, Cutboy sells Japanese mac knives (i.e. high-carbon knives set at a 15 degree angle, with flatter edges than European blades and superior sharpness, too) in solo pieces and starter sets. Restaurant pros tend to pick these up—customers include “Master Chef” brethren Arnold and Reynold Poernomo—but that doesn’t mean the dedicated home chef can’t get one, either. E-mail cutboy.knife@gmail. com to inquire about making a purchase.
The Digital Scale There was a time when pinches and dashes were all that mattered. Those days are over. Metric measurements offer a degree of precision in cooking that cups and tablespoons could never achieve. A digital scale also means you won’t have to, say, hunt for a dozen measuring cups to bake cupcakes. Spoon the flour into a bowl and set the scale back to zero before you add the next ingredient. The same goes for savoury foods. Polenta, rice, and shredded cheese can be measured with accuracy. Verasu offers a range of scales. Generally speaking, the most basic will perform its primary function. Check them out at the brick-andmortar store on Wireless Road, or visit verasu.com. bangkok101.com
Speaking of Sous Vide Thailand, for true gastro geeks, the sousvide machine is like the Warhol on the wall, the trophy on the mantel, the jewel in the kitchen crown. The sous-vide more or less takes the place of the crockpot. Put some beef cheek in a bag and vacuum-seal it, take that package and drop it in a temperature-controlled water bath, forget about it for about a day, and voila. Since the cooking temperature is so low—certain products can be cooked for up to 96 hours—meat and vegetables are cooked evenly and retain their moisture. No longer reserved for the Ferran Adrià’s and Joël Robuchon’s of the world, sous-vide machines are now fixtures on countertops of a more humble nature. And even mixologists are in on the trend, with luminaries like Joseph Boroski using sous-vide to prepare herb-infused liqueurs and bitters. Pick one up at sousvidethailand.com, where they start at around B9000 for a basic machine.
The Blow Torch Caramelize meringue, sear meat, achieve deeper flavours and textures—with the aid of a blow torch, the culinary possibilities are endless. Traditionally a tool found in the garage, the blow torch has entered kitchens—and even barrooms— with culinary flare. Most often associated with crème brûlée, the blow torch also adds golden colour and toasted notes to marshmallows or graham crackers, browns cheese for French onion soup, and sears chocolate for a final addition to a whisky-based cocktail. Go to Pantry Magic at Eight Thong Lo or the Emporium Department Store to pick up a blow torch, as well as other handy kitchen tools.
The Hand Mixer Also known as stick or immersion blenders, hand mixers are best known for their capacity to easily blend chunky ingredients into silky smooth soups. But they can also chop meat, whip eggs and oil into mayonnaise, blend fruit smoothies, and work the lumps right out of gravy. Sous Vide Thailand sells a good hand mixer set (with six changeable blades, a mixing cup, and more) for B4400 on its website, sousvidethailand.com.
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unique boutique
SIMPLE TO SIMPLE - For the Minimalist’s Kitchen BY PONGPHOP SONGSIRIARCHA
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ehold the power of social media. Like many other shops in this day and age, Simple to Simple was established using Facebook as its main point of contact with customers. After a year on the rise, the shop has only just launched a flagship studio close to BTS Saphan Kwai, where its minimalist kitchenware and home décor can be felt rather than scrolled through. Simple to Simple sells a variety of cool kitchen gear— plates, bowls, spoons, and even honey dippers. Just about all of it is made from raw wood, like mimosa and teak, which lend rich and diverse textures and colours to the products. Most, however, are made from the wood of rubber trees from southern Thailand. Once rubber trees run out of sap, they can no longer be used for their original purpose. Knowing that, founders Yotsawan “Aom” Jeerawittayapong and Nipat “Top” Daosodsai thought it an eco-friendly idea to use this wood in their products, especially as the grain has a beautiful light colour. The distinction has helped earned the brand a faithful international following. “We get a lot of customers from Japan, Taiwan, and Malaysia. Wooden ware in other Asian countries is much more expensive than it is here,” she adds, “The price starts from B30 and goes to over B1000, but we also offer retail and wholesale prices.” Simple to Simple’s piebald parliament of clientele is 116 | | F EBRUA R 2016
fitting, seeing as both Aom and Top have travelled fairly frequently to Japan, finding inspiration in the simple yet sophisticated Japanese café culture and lifestyle. “We were really fond of the wooden items we found in Japan, and we thought Thai people might find them just as charming,” says Aom. One of the best-selling items is a minimal-style cutting board, which many restaurants and cafés use as plates or serving trays, according to Aom. They come in a kindergartner’s worksheet of shapes—rectangles, circles, cloud shapes. Another highly rated item is the special wooden lunch box that comes with a pair of chopsticks and strap. Apart from wooden goods, Simple to Simple offers glass and ceramic items, as well. And, at the shop, visitors can also peruse a variety of tableware, from saucers to cups, from mortars to cake stands. Basically, everything you could ever want for your kitchen, minus those Space Age-y molecular gadgets. But why would you want those, especially in wood trim? Even though we live in a techie world, sometimes it’s just better to go back to the basics.
SIMPLE TO SIMPLE 1575/38 Pahonyothin Rd | 09 5770 1385 facebook.com/simpletosimple
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UND ERG RO U
OVERGROUND ND
de to i u You r G
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BAN
G K O K’ S
PICK UP
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Art S
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LEADING ART GALLERIES BANGKOKARTMAP
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spa review
SPA BY LE MÉRIDIEN - Unwind and Dine BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO
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here’s no better way to spend a day off than simply forgetting about work and all its stresses. But, to be honest, while you’re sinking into the sofa, TV remote in hand, sometimes work just creeps its way back into your mind. It’s inevitable. And thus the need for a hideaway, where the daily grind disappears into the soft padding of a masseuse’s hands, at least for a few hours. SPA by Le Méridien, occupying much of the hotel’s sixth floor—along with its TechnoGym, an equipped fitness centre lined with floor-to-ceiling window panels revealing an expansive city view—is one such hideaway. The spa is designed to be an urban resort where guests can enjoy some good old peace and privacy. Upon arrival, the SPA offers grape juice, a slight diversion from the standard ta offering, but just as warming. And thousands of marble pebbles on a curved wall build a light ambience at first glance. There’s a diverse range of treatments here, all in different lengths, from a 30-minute bath or steam session to 60- or 90-minute massages all the way up to 390 minutes of pure serenity. Each option is intended to restore natural energy and balance between body and mind. And among the seven treatments, two are designated for couples, providing a romantic getaway without the need to truly get away. 118 | | F EBRUA R 2016
The Spa and Dine Journey (B1699++; available throughout February) is a fine choice for those seeking a recharge without devious work-life thoughts popping up. The package includes 90 minutes of massage and treatments performed by a masseuse, followed by either lunch or dinner depending on your preference. The massage is a blend of Thai and Balinese styles, to promote relaxation through a lot of gentle skin folding and kneading with the use of aromatic oil. There’s a choice of distinctive aroma oils, but hypoallergenic oil is recommended for those who have sensitive skin or suffer from rashes or sunburn. The massage is followed by a 30-minute spa treatment of your choosing: a body scrub, a foot treatment, or a hot compress. After almost two hours at the spa, presumably now totally unwound, you are invited to indulge in unexpected flavors at Latest Recipe. A glass of wine, a cup of tea, or maybe a big meal—whatever you choose, this special add-on is merely the cherry on the sundae of a relaxing day.
SPA BY LE MÉRIDIEN 40/5 Surawong Rd | 0 2232 8888 lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com | daily 11am-11pm
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products
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Aromatic Indulgence New Pampering Products Arrive Just in Time for Valentine’s Day THE HARMONY OF FIVE BY HARNN
For the very first time, HARNN introduces five unique travel kits, putting together body care products such as cleansing gels, body lotions, and hand creams in special travel pouches. Each pouch is made from premium fabric and lightweight materials, designed in a contemporary Asian style. The Harmony of Five is available in five collections: Oriental Rose Harmony, Oriental Herbs Harmony, Tropical Wood Harmony, Jasmine Harmony, and Cymbopogon Harmony. The collection is in store from this month onward. Find out more at harnn.com
FLEURS DE CERISIER BY L’OCCITANE EN PROVENCE
L’occitane welcomes the season of love with a limited-edition eau de toilette, Fleurs de Cerisier, priced at B1990 (50ml). The scent is a whirlwind of fresh and delicate notes from the very first cherry blossoms in the Luberon orchards. The fragrance also comes in other kinds of products, from hand creams to moisturizing shower gels, allowing for perfumed touch-ups any time of the day. Find out more, including where to buy them, at th.loccitane.com.
RED MOON CANDLE BY PAÑPURI
OIL-FREE FACIAL SUNSCREEN BY THANN A good sunscreen is essential here. Protect your skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays with Shiso Facial Sunscreen. THANN’s products are made from organic ingredients, including Nano Shiso and white tea extracts. Its natural oil-free formula means it spreads easily and absorbs into skin layers quickly. White tea extract rejuvenates the skin while Nano Shiso extract reduces irritation from sun exposure. The sunscreen is available at THANN shops across the country for B1000 (40g).
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Create a romantic ambience for your special night with Pañpuri’s Red Moon. This limited edition candle, crafted from premium botanical ingredients, is the perfect moodsetter for a memorable night. The candle gets its sweet aroma from an exotic blend of roseberry, Neroli, and white musk. It’s packaged in a scarlet-coloured embossed with the elegant figure of a peacock. Looking for a Valentine’s gift? Check out panpuri.com for some other creative ideas.
THE PURE INDULGENCE PERFUMED CANDLE BY DONNA CHANG Using a centuries-old technique, each Donna Chang perfumed candle is poured by hand to ensure the highest quality. Casting a soft glow, the surroundings in a room gradually transform. And, infused with a blend of fragrances, this candle fills rooms with its fresh scent even when not burning. There are three options from the latest Signature Home Collection—orchid, rose, and vanilla. Each is designed to inspire different sensations yet the same level of relaxation. More information is available at donnachang.com.
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did you know?
DID YOU KNOW? From North to South, East to West, food in Thailand varies from region to region. Local resources, daily lifestyles, influence from neighbouring countries—lots of factors explain the variations between the provinces. Northerners prefer mild flavours, perhaps owing to Yunnan, Shan, and Lanna influence, and dishes often contain pork and chicken. The cooler climate also means a wealth of fresh vegetables and fruit, as well as the recent addition of tea and coffee. The Northeast, arid and land-locked, mainly eats beef, freshwater fish, and chicken. Pork isn’t popular here, since locals don’t often raise pigs—but they do eat frogs, snakes, field mice, and all manner of insects. The south is rich with natural resources, especially fruit, but the sea provides the meat of the fare. Red and white snapper, prawn, and squid feature prominently in the Southern diet. Southerners also prefer their food strong and spicy, abundant in herbs as well as chillies.
In the Next Issue of Bangkok 101 • Exploring the Finer Side of Hua Hin • In the Kitchen at Uno Mas • An Elephantine Day Out 120 | F EBRUA RY 2016
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