Bangkok 101 Magazine January 2016 by Talisman Media

The heart of the capital. The height of luxury.

( 2 minute walk )

Thailand’s first world-class dessert cafe presents the very best of contemporary Japanese desserts, with an artistic twist - from rare ‘Sumi’ bamboo charcoal roll cakes to premium ‘Uji’ Matcha soft ice-cream within the ambience of Japanese ‘Zen’ gardens.

www.facebook.com/kyorollen | www.kyorollen.com

KYOROLL ROLLEN EN KYO

@20 branches incl. Siam Paragon, CentralWorld, EmQuartier, Siam Square 1, CentralLadprao, La Villa Ari, CentralEmbassy ++

Savour award-winning gyoza by 7-time 'Gyoza Champion' from Gyoza Stadium, Tokyo -from signature Sudachi lime, cheesy Mentaiko, sweet Teriyaki, Kurobuta pork to vegan ‘Yasai’ ...along with modern Japanese Izakaya snacks, Sanuki udon, original Yuzu ramen and much more in this delightfully unique gyoza-dining concept. TERAOKAGYOZA GYOZA TERAOKA

@ Siam Paragon, Siam Square 1, EmQuartier, La Villa Ari, Central Pinklao & CentralFestival Pattaya Beach www.facebook.com/teraokagyoza | www.teraoka-gyoza.com

Indulge in over 30 irresistible selections of Parisian eclairs, including signature 'diplomat’ cream, French fleur de sel', popcorn caramel, Kyoto matcha, local mango-coconut and more at PASTEL - The First and Only Patisserie in Bangkok that Specializes in Eclairs, yes, with Flair! @ Siam Paragon, Emporium, Terminal 21 & CentralFestival EastVille PASTEL PASTEL

www.facebook.com/Pastelbkk

Thailand’s first healthy dessert concept, produced by Japanese ‘Ice King’ from Ice Cream City Tokyo, specializes in healthy, 'low-fat, low-sugar’ desserts including signature honey-infused yogurt soft-serve, fruity granita made from 100% fresh fruits, flourless, gluten-free chocolate cakes & much more… @15 branches incl. CentralWorld, Terminal21, CentralLadprao, Mega Bangna, CentralChaengwattana, Chamchuri Square, Silom Complex ++

Quality F&B Concepts by Kacha Brothers -7 Brands, Over 50 Outlets!

SFREE SFREE

www.facebook.com/Sfree.Parferio

KACHA BROTHERS

Tel: 02-540-4555 | info@sfree.co.th

PUBLISHER’S LETTER In a flush of champagne flutes and opulent feasts, the holidays have come and gone, and resolution season has now arrived. Lose weight, eat right, work out— whatever the goal, it’s time to get started. To help you recover, repair, or revamp, this month we set the spotlight on wellness. Our Best of Bangkok checks in on the city’s latest fitness trends, exploring some cutting-edge gyms, “boxes,” and studios. From there, the less-than-lithe John Krich tries to get back into yoga, with mixed results. But it’s not all about athletics. Photographer Emily Ibarra’s shots of the daring Team Farang, otherwise known as Thailand’s free-wheeling freerunners, share a more vibrant perspective on well-being. Thanks to veggie-friendly venues like CHOMP and Broccoli Revolution, eating well is a little bit easier nowadays, too. Read about these restaurants and more—and then go on a tour of the city’s humbler vegetarian fare—in Food & Drink. And get a bodyconscious dessert in the form of Me Juice, the focus of Made in Thailand, our series of features shining light on the city’s leading food artisans. Before you check out, turn to Lifestyle for the lowdown on top options for alternative wellness. All this, as well as our 101 archive and extras, can be found online at bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening. If there’s something you feel we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.

WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

Enjoy.

Mason Florence Publisher

B A NGKOK 101 PA R T N E R S

bangkok101.com

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publisher

Mason Florence

CONTRIBUTORS

editor-in-chief

Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond associate publisher

Parinya Krit-Hat managing editor

Craig Sauers food editor

John Krich associate editor

Pawika Jansamakao editor-at-large

Bangkok-born but internationally bred, DR TOM VITAYAKUL has a background in communication and branding but now runs his family’s boutique hotel and Thai restaurant. An avid traveller and a bon vivant, he has contributed to magazines including Lips, Lips Luxe and the Bangkok Post ’s the Magazine, and has also helped edit several books on Thai subjects.

Award-winning writer JOE CUMMINGS was born in New Orleans and grew up in France, California and Washington, DC. Joe became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide. Joe has also written illustrated reference books such as Buddhist Stupas in Asia; Sacred Tattoos of Thailand; Muay Thai; World Food Thailand; Buddhist Temples of Thailand; Chiang Mai Style and Lanna Renaissance.

GABY DOMAN is a Bangkokbased writer with a serious social media habit. When she’s not at the gym, she can be found undoing all her good work in a bakery or a bar. A brownie or Dirty Martini (respectively), if you’re buying.

Joe Cummings editorial coordinator

Pongphop Songsiriarcha art director

Narong Srisaiya graphic designer

Thanakrit Skulchartchai strategists

Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger contributing writers

Rachel Kwok, Adam O’Keefe, Jim Algie, Marco Ferrarese, Nicola Jones-Crossley, Matt Wilde, Oliver Benjamin, Cameron Cooper contributing photographers

Willem Deenik, Megan Ferrera, Greg Powell, Jatuporn Rutnin, Paul Lefevre, Niran Choonhachat, Supphanat Kusolphithak, Anupong Hotawaisaya general manager

A Brit with three decades of Bangkok living, KEITH MUNDY has been a freelance travel writer and photographer for 26 years. Trained in languages and literature (English, French, Spanish), he has been a traveller since the age of 14, visited 96 countries so far and been kicked out of a couple. His work has appeared in travel and lifestyle magazines worldwide, including the inflight magazines of several major airlines, and he is the author of guidebooks to Thailand and Mexico, plus Thai corporate and cultural histories.

AVAILABLE AT:

Native-Bangkok writer, photographer and incurable travel addict, KORAKOT (NYM) PUNLOPRUKSA believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for TV and a documentary scriptwriter. Her work appears in magazines, including Elle, Elle Decoration and GM .

Paris native LUC CITRINOT has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history.

Jhone El’Mamuwaldi director sales and marketing

Itsareeya Chatkitwaroon account executive

Orawan Ratanapratum circulation

Phichet Reangchit published by

Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 T 0 2286 7821 | F 0 2286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them. SEP T EM BER 2014 | 5

CONTENTS 52

20 44

CITY PULSE

48 upcountry escape:

8 metro beat

top upcountry

90 eat like nym 92 in the kitchen:

12 my bangkok:

running events

daniel bucher

mark abbott

52 over the border:

94 made in thailand:

14 hot plates: lucca

tabriz

me juice

20 out & about: yoga

ART & CULTURE

NIGHTLIFE

26 making merit:

58 exhibitions

102 nightlife news

plant a tree today

62 interview: lolay

104 review: bon bon

28 on the block:

64 cheat notes:

106 imbibe

samsen

light and science

16 best of bkk: gyms

SNAPSHOTS

66 photo feature:

SHOPPING

parkour in bkk

112 new collection:

30 tom’s two satang

tube gallery

32 joe’s bangkok

FOOD & DRINK

114 feature:

34 bizarre thailand

74 food & drink news

alternative wellness

36 very thai

76 meal deals

116 unique boutique:

112

38 heritage: wat pho

77 food editor’s letter

soap kitchen

78 veggie-friendly

118 review:

TRAVEL

round-up

spa cenvaree

40 upcountry now

80 restaurant reviews:

119 spa deals

44 hotel review:

chomp, broccoli

hilton pattaya

revolution, le dalat,

SIGNING OFF

46 hotel review:

ruen urai, crab and

120 signing off

marriott executive

claw, kyo roll en,

apartments

uno mas

ON THE COVER Flipping Out Parkour in front of the Giant Swing By Emily Ibarra

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STUNNING AL FRESCO VIEWS

If you’re in need of intense flavour from the heart of The Mediterranean, whilst taking in the glorious Bangkok sunset that rivals any Balearic skyline, then we are proud to offer you the most exquisite setting. The warmth of Europe’s most popular destination is brought to Bangkok in three unique settings as you embark on an unforgettable journey of culture and cuisine through the vibrant Iberian Peninsula. Indulge in our semi al fresco Tapas & Raw bar and experience the infinite selection of Mediterranean seafood that we have to offer. The allure of our semi al fresco Dining Deck puts you in the heart of our first-rate cuisine, culminating in an outstanding tapas taste, which is simply unforgettable. An astounding setting, remarkable food and drink and wondrous music beats that will bring the soul of Spain to your table, UNO MAS will forever have you asking for… one more!

FOR RESERVATIONS PLEASE CONTACT 54th Floor, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10130, Thailand T: 02-100-6255

E: diningcgcw@chr.co.th

UNOMASBANGKOK

www.centarahotelsresorts.com

UNOMAS_ BANGKOK

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ELECTRONIC

WORKSHOPS

Video Journalism and Filmmaking Workshop Multi-discipline venue Cho Why (Soi Nana, Chinatown) invites emerging documentarians to a seven-day video journalism and filmmaking workshop this January 11-17. Internationally recognized artists Alfonso Moral, a leading photographer and filmmaker currently based in Beirut, and Raul Gallego Abellan, a contributor to the Associated Press and Channel 4 News in the UK, among others, will lead this intensive boot camp aimed at improving shooting, editing, and storytelling skills. On top of insider tips from the masters, all participants will receive hands-on practical training, including guidance as they shoot and edit their own documentaries during the workshop. The entire package is priced at USD1500. For more information, email bkkfilmingvjworkshop@gmail.com. Loopers Collective, a group of top street photographers in Thailand, invites aspiring shutterbugs to a three-day workshop with the award-winning Jesse Marlow and Matt Stuart. The Leica Street Photography Workshop runs from January 11-14, with talks and portfolio critiques held at Wecosystem on the 6th floor of Gaysorn Plaza (BTS Chid Lom). In the afternoon of the middle two days, participants hit the streets under the guidance of the two photographers. On the final day, the pros lead group editing classes. Tickets run a steep B49500 (including lunch and coffee), but, for anyone interested in the medium, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re worth it. Visit looperscollective.com for more information. 8 | JA N UA RY 2016

Gravity Thailand: Arcadia Gravity Thailand: Arcadia is back, and so is its steelframed, fire-spewing, cyberpunk-style spider stage. On January 23, this festival of electronic music and science fiction lands at Lumpini Square, the location of the now defunct Suan Lum Night Bazaar. On the docket are Zomboy, DJ BL3ND, and Must Die!, among others, all of whom have incredible stage presence and play different styles of music. If the previous edition in 2014 is any indication of what to expect this time around, the show should be a wild, night-long, cinematic blast. Tickets are priced at B2500 for general admission and B5000 for VIPs. Visit gravitythailand.com for information and thaiticketmajor.com for tickets.

CLASSICAL

Piano Recitals Sala Sudasiri Sobha (158/20 Lad Phrao 41, Alley 7-2) presents three piano recitals in January. From 4pm5.30pm on January 17, Greek pianist Dimitri Vassilakis performs selections from Bach, Mitropoulos, Messiaen, and Scarlatti. From 4pm-6pm on January 24, Erika Harada plays Bach, Chopin, Mozart, and Toshinao Sato. Finally, from 4pm-6pm on January 31, Janusz Olejniciak presents an afternoon of Chopin. All proceeds benefit the Gift of Life Foundation. For more information, including ticket prices, visit salasudasirisobha.com. bangkok101.com

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FOOD & DRINK

Chef Shinji Kanesaka Sanpellegrino’s Fine Dining Lovers guest chef series brings Chef Shinji Kanesaka of Tokyo’s Michelin-starred Sushi Kanesaka to Bangkok in the young sushi master’s first overseas cameo. Joining him is Chef Toru Osumi from Shinji by Kanesaka, the first extension of the Kanesaka brand at City of Dreams in Macau, which has just been awarded a Michelin star after only nine months in operation. Held from January 15-17 at Yamazato, The Okura Prestige Bangkok’s award-winning restaurant, this special event is as much about the experience as it is the exclusive and premium sushi. Chef Kanesaka began training at 18 at Japan’s renowned Kyubey. Ten years later, in 2000, he launched his first outlet. Today, Sushi Kanesaka is considered a mecca for exquisite sushi. Lunch and dinner at Yamazato’s sushi counter will be served by Chef Kanesaka to only eight diners each session. A private room is available (maximum eight diners), with the same offerings prepared by Chef Osumi. Special Japanese rice will be brought in exclusively for these meals, and the best selection of fresh fish handpicked by Chef Kanesaka will be flown daily to Bangkok from Tsukiji Market. Dishes will be paired with a selection of fine Japanese tea and premium mineral water Acqua Panna. Dinners cost B8900++ while lunches are priced at B3500++. For more information and reservations, contact The Okura Prestige Bangkok at 0 2687 9000 or email fb@okurabangkok.com. On January 23, top creative minds will lead an evening of music, art, and discourse at The Never Ending Summer (41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd), starting at 6pm. A joint effort of The Jam Factory, The Never Ending Summer, and HER LONDON, Bridging Here and There is billed as a “progressive dinner talk.” It will start with five UKbased designers and artists, comprising five disciplines, presenting works created for the event on the theme of “a self-portrait.” Then, all guests will sit down for a four-course dinner, offering further opportunities for creative dialogue and networking. Once dinner is over, jazz musician Matthew Halsall will lay down some tunes until late in the night. For tickets, as well as some background info on the artists, visit facebook.com/thejamfactorybangkok. bangkok101.com

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HEALTH & FITNESS

FAMILY FUN

Tim Feldmann, the Ashtanga master who runs the Miami Life Center, will be in town for an Ashtanga Mysore workshop, held from January 28-31 at the Ashtanga Yoga Center of Bangkok (S31 Sukhumvit Hotel). In the mornings, Feldmann will lead Mysore sessions. Each afternoon will focus on different techniques: breath and bandha, gateway asanas, and lightness inversion as the foundation of balance. Prices are B1200 for Mysore and B2200 for the afternoon sessions, or B11100 for the whole package. Places are limited to 45. email contact@aybkk. com for more details.

KIS Animal Kingdom Picnic Celebrate Children’s Day in Thailand at the KIS Animal Kingdom Picnic, held at the school grounds on January 16. Great for families with young kids, the picnic will include arts and crafts, music, games, lots of food and drinks, and a scavenger hunt. The activities run from 9am until noon, and the school is offering a free shuttle bus from Ekamai BTS Station. Tickets are B300 per family. Call 0 2274 3444 ext. 4125 or email robert@kis.ac.th for more information.

MARKETS

Hello Kitty Run The Hello Kitty Run comes to Bangkok on January 31. Yes, that’s right—Hello Kitty. Anyway, this twee and funfilled 5k will pull the pink right out of your heart. Starting at 6am at Airport Rail Link Makkasan Station, the run traces the nearby roads before finishing back the rail station. Entries receive Hello Kitty goodies, including bags, medals, and shirts. Tickets are not necessarily cheap, at B850 for normal entry, but it’s about the experience anyway. Visit hellokittyrunbkk.com for details. Keen to run a longer distance? Then check out the BITEC Half Marathon, also held on January 31. While not the most scenic route—out and back on Bangna-Trad Road, starting from BITEC—the race is well-organized, with plenty of support throughout the 5k, 10.5k, and 21.1k. All runners receive shirts and medals, and the top three in each age group of the half- and mini-marathons get some nice cash prizes. Proceeds from the race will be donated to the Saijaithai Foundation under the Royal Patronage, an organisation that assists Thai citizens who have sacrificed their lives and personal comfort for the nation’s stability and security. Visit bitec-halfmarathon.com for more information. 10 | JA N UA RY 2016

Somart Social Market One of Bangkok’s most selfied pop-up markets celebrates its first anniversary on January 30-31, as Somart Social Market sets up shop at EMQuartier. Besides shopping and food and drinks, the market has beefed up festivities with mini-concerts by the wildly popular Singto Namchok and Hugo, as well as other yet-to-be-announced acts. Visit facebook.com/bkkfleamarket, or contact @somartmarket on LINE, for more information about the event. The weekend of January 30-31 will be a busy time for market-goers, as The MARKETs presents The Fashion Carnival at Parc Paragon on those very same days. From 10.30am-9.30pm, pick up limited edition fashion from top local brands in the open space between Siam Center and Siam Paragon. bangkok101.com

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my bangkok

Mark

ABBOTT Health consultant, founder of Thai Top Fitness, TV and online star, and all-around good guy Mark Abbott keeps a busy schedule. He spared a few moments from his various projects to talk with Bangkok 101 about fitness, myths, and how he stays motivated in this fast-paced city.

What got you into a lifestyle based around fitness? I’ve been interested in sports and performance all my life. When I was at school I competed in the 100m (running), rugby, and martial arts. On leaving school, I joined the Royal Marine Commandos to test my body and mind. I really enjoy exercising. I guess I’m strange like that. I get pleasure from the “burn.” That being said, as I get older and lean muscle mass is becoming harder and harder to hold on to, I’m thinking about crossing over to endurance sports. I have so much respect for endurance athletes—I mean, long distance runners have a very long time to come up with a great reason to quit! Why have you and Thai Top Fitness have become so popular? When I initially started it was a novelty for some people to see a westerner do videos in Thai, but that won’t keep people coming back. The key was giving away information for free. Previously, people charged for the information I gave away. This caused a lot of people in the industry to dislike me, but that didn’t put me off. I’m passionate about science and I love seeing others get fitter and enjoy life. Setting up Thai Top Fitness was a great way for me to help people get in shape and know all they needed to know to get started today. What is a normal day like for you? I usually wake up around 5am so that I can get training out the way. I work for the Chairman of the True Group in business development, so that keeps me busy throughout the day. After work, I’ll go for a jog and spend time with my wife and dogs. I usually go to bed around 10 or 11pm. To be honest, I would like to get a bit more sleep but it’s hard. 12 | JA N UA RY 2016

In terms of fitness and nutrition, what trends are shaping the city? The biggest is “detoxing.” People go on these juicing diets and take all sorts of detoxing potions. They don’t work. In fact, they do more damage than good. Your body doesn’t store toxins like these companies will have you believe. It’s like trying to wash a dent out of your car—it’s ridiculous. It doesn’t matter how often I tell people this, or how many scientific papers I pull up on the dangers of these diets, people still follow them. As Mark Twain once said, “It’s easier to fool people than to convince them that they’ve been fooled.” What can someone with limited time and resources do to get maximum results? Body weight work is always the best for limited time and resources. When I was training to join the Royal Marine Commandos, I used to do 10 sets of 10 push-ups because I wanted to do 100 push-ups. I did the same with pull-ups and sit-ups. After doing that, I’d run 5k at a fast speed or 10k+ at a slower speed. I also swam three times a week. Eventually I was doing five sets of 200+ push-ups, 10 sets of 30 pull-ups, and situps until I couldn’t move. This is simple, but it takes passion, not discipline. Discipline won’t cut it. Discipline wears off. Passion keeps you going. Measuring goals is important, too. See how many push-ups you can do; every two or three weeks try to beat it. You’ll surprise yourself at how quickly your body can adapt. The main thing is to have fun. If it’s fun, you’ll do it again. If you can’t handle this type of training, don’t worry about it! Try a group sport: play football, join a paintball team, play water polo, go cycling. It’s all good!

What are some simple lifestyle changes people here can make to improve their well-being? People over-complicate things. The best thing to do is keep it simple. Eat meals, stop eating snacks. Drink more water and less of everything else. Jog. Lift weights (not too heavy, just make sure your muscles are working). Do yoga. Meditate. Enjoy life. What kind of advice do most people ask you for? “What’s the fastest way to...?” As though I was about to tell them the slowest way to get in shape! People are not patient. Anyone who wants to rush is doomed to failure. You can only become great at something if you enjoy the process. What’s the most ridiculous question you’ve been asked? I’ve had many, but a few come to mind: Does weight training shrink your penis? Does playing basketball make you taller? Does bodybuilding make you gay? What do you do in your down time? I go skydiving whenever I get the chance. I recently bought a wingsuit, too. I also love riding motorcycles. I have a Ducati Hypermotard 821, which is so much fun it’s hard to describe. In my spare time at home, I like to read. Science and philosophy are my subjects of choice. On “cheat days,” what do you eat? I have “cheat meals” as opposed to devoting a whole day to junk food! I have a real problem with cheese. I actually have to avoid the cheese section at the supermarket. So, my cheat meal would normally be a four-cheese pizza. Washing it down with a good cider is always a winning combination! bangkok101.com

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hot plates

Lucca By Craig Sauers

or proof the world’s borders are shrinking, look no further than Lucca. A name inspired by a village in Tuscany, with recipes from the Mediterranean, served in a renovated house that once accommodated Saigon Rimsai, and prepared by a Thai chef, who, during his over 40 years in the industry, worked in London, joining the kitchens at French and Italian restaurants rather than the Thai joints where chefs transplanted from home typically took up residencies. A lot to take in? Sure, but the sum of the parts is quite pleasing. Maybe we should be thankful for all this globalisation. “Lucca is the name of a village in Italy’s great food capital,” says Natdanai “Nat” Yuvaboon, co-owner of the restaurant, in explaining the concept driving the latest addition to Bangkok’s Italian directory. “And so in Bangkok we want Lucca to be like a ‘village’ within our world food capital.” Fitting to this provincial distinction, getting to Lucca takes some travelling. Set off from Sukhumvit in the narrow, funnel-like alleys of Phra Khanong, down Soi 65, the restaurant enjoys genuine privacy from the city’s unceasing commotion. With parking space for over 20 cars, and ample signage on utility poles for those coming by way of taxi, the isolation becomes an asset rather than a disadvantage. Lucca is a warm, romantic place, where jazz on the speakers isn’t broken by car horns; where parquet floors, exposed beams, and red candles on white linen tablecloths lend a homelike air to the experience; and where the food is every bit as comforting as the atmosphere demands. The menu is large, yet non-threatening. Still, Chef Hee Chanyadee offers recommendations for those who welcome a little guidance. A good place to start— though not one of the chef’s picks—is the Tasmanian black mussels sautéed in white wine sauce, served with garlic toast and a slice of lemon on the side (B320). Sea brine, citrus, and sweet wine combine in a beautiful palate pick-me-up ideal for sharing. Soups, like the earthy mushroom cappuccino—a trio of porcini, shiitake, and abalone with a blended broth foam and cracked black pepper on top (B260—that speaks to French influence, or a classic bouillabaisse (B420), round out meals. But you won’t be looked down on if you skip the soup and head straight for pastas and entrées. Not with the wealth of choices in store. Lucca’s fresh tagliatelle with herby meatballs of Italian sausage in a sauce flecked with truffle and Pecorino cheese (B320) is a dish to return for—especially at that price tag. And, although big enough for three, the braised short ribs, served with sautéed vegetables and spot-on mashed potatoes (B890), could quite rightly become a fan favourite; there’s a lingering heat in the capsicum-laced sauce that carries through the tender bone-in beef, a taste that locals, above all, should love. Save room for dessert. Traditional tiramisu (B220) gets fresh plating in a swivelling glass cup. Presentation aside, this is one of the better tiramisu’s available in Bangkok right now. But if chocolate and coffee isn’t your thing, a cool, Piedmont-inspired panna cotta with raspberry sauce (B240) plays the refreshing, tangy foil to a meal of rich Italian and French cuts. With pocket-friendly prices for large portions (check the two- and threecourse lunch specials [with free dessert] at B390 and B490), and flavours filling the gap between Thai and expatriate tastes, Lucca has the feel of an out-and-out establishment in the making. Thankfully, you won’t have to travel to Tuscany to experience it.

LUCCA 108/4 Sukhumvit 65 | luccadining-bkk.com | 0 2714 2207 | daily 11am-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm

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Hands-on instruction at CrossFit Ten500, where support and community are as important as the workout of the day 16 | JA N UA RY 2016

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best of bkk

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SWEATER WEATHER The Gyms, Boxes, Studios, and Classes Shaping Up Bangkok

e’ve come a long way since the reign of “California Wow.” These days going to the gym can mean myriad things. Are you doing CrossFit? A boot camp? Or are you into TRX, the suspended cables allowing workouts and movements eerily similar to the deltoid-busting acrobatics of Circque du Soleil? There are now more options than ever to burn belly fat and boost red blood cells. With health and wellness guiding lifestyle choices—and not everyone so keen to run lap after lap in Lumpini—it’s a good time to explore the ever-expanding options of gyms and fitness programmes in Bangkok. High-intensity, dynamic workouts that stimulate mind and body are the current craze, CrossFit in particular. The

Feeling the burn at CrossFit Ten500 bangkok101.com

beauty of CrossFit programmes is that beginners can work out alongside advanced athletes, since each session— typically incorporating a warm-up, skill development, and a high-intensity effort often called the WOD, or “workout of the day”—can be modified. There’s little room for intimidation when the playing field is determined by your personal limits. Besides, everyone lets out the same guttural grunts, the same hair-raising screams, when performing a clean and jerk. Located beside the Chinese cemetery on Silom Soi 9, CrossFit Ten500 is as much about community as it is getting in a good workout. Small and intimate, with classes led by highly active and vocal certified trainers, all athletes in effect receive plenty of personal attention. That sense of

A small group session at Ari CrossFit JA N UA RY 2016 | 17

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best of bkk

Hanging 10 at Surfset - just on dry land

Yoga for CrossFitters at Training Ground

Maybe the barre workouts at Physique 57 aren’t so easy

community lingers long after the WOD. From family-style picnics to post-workout photo ops—in which everyone looks as shattered as moviegoers emerging from “Fifty Shades of Grey”—Ten500 verifies that misery truly loves company. Classes last an hour, and a few hours each day are allocated to open gym. For those still wary of the CrossFit credo, Ten500 offers free one-week passes. Get your feet wet. If it’s for you, the rates (B3500 for one month, B9000 for three) are reasonable, if not downright affordable. Across the city, Ari CrossFit has gained a loyal and fun-loving clientele thanks to the gym’s equally loyal and fun-loving trainers. Many patrons are (or were) true beginners, getting into CrossFit as a more engaging alternative to running, swimming, or Muay Thai, and often having discovered the box from the Internet or by word-ofmouth. And then they’re hooked. Ari CrossFit’s social media is filled with testimonials. For example, one member named Franklin, who had never tried CrossFit but wanted to give it a shot as a way to trim weight, says he finds inspiration in watching (and no doubt hearing) other members “grind and improve” around him. Besides CrossFit classes, the box also offers “whole life challenges,” eight-week-long programmes helping individuals make healthier lifestyle choices, from getting better sleep to drinking more water and meditating each day. Training Ground in Phra Khanong is perhaps most representative of the warehouse zeitgeist of Western

gyms. Opened in 2014, the self-declared largest CrossFit and strength and conditioning gym in Asia features squat racks, chin-up bars, and medicine balls carefully placed on a spacious mat spread across the floor and a smattering of graffiti on tall white walls. Training Ground is home to East West CrossFit, a platform emphasising Olympic-style weightlifting and strength development. But that’s not all. Patrons can sign up for yoga, personal training, and boot camps. From functional strength to Olympic lifting, this massive, airy space has all fronts covered. Plus, they’re not afraid to let loose—Beervana hosted its third anniversary at Training Ground. Why not live a little? Much like Ten500 and Ari CrossFit, East West provides fundamental training for newbie CrossFitters (i.e. learning how to lift weights and perform exercises with proper form). This, thankfully, is now a common practice the world over; in its early years, CrossFit gained notoriety for damaging injuries—and a nasty condition called rhabdo in which dead muscle tissue enters the bloodstream, sometimes causing kidney failure—from an all-toocommon emphasis on repetition without concern for form. Around the rapid rise of CrossFit, other alternative fitness and strength programmes have emerged. At the Aspire Club, the gym visible from the Asoke BTS station, while its CrossFit Bangkok remains a popular option, many regulars prefer the long-standing boot camps (quite likely the first true boot camps in Bangkok), or the

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best of bkk

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Rooftop workouts at Aspire tend to draw gazes from the Asoke BTS station targeted training for golfers. Aspire also boasts an altitude chamber for sports performance. That’s right—high altitude simulation in a city barely above sea level. Training at elevation has many benefits, above all for endurance athletes, as it vastly improves oxygen delivery to muscles. But altitude training, by boosting overall fitness, is also helpful for weekend warriors. Kids aren’t forgotten about, either. Aspire offers developmental training for speed, agility, and fundamental skills for young athletes. The classes are designed by specialists, ensuring safety while adding an educational element to sessions for hopeful footballers, runners, swimmers, and more. Moving away from free weights and high-intensity interval training, internationally acclaimed Physique 57 brings a barre- and ballet-inspired regimen to Bangkok.

Popular in the US, but only just emerging in Asia, this kind of exercise utilises that ubiquitous ballet prop, the mirrorfronted barre, in a mix of cardio, stretching, and strength training intervals to help trim body fat and sculpt lean muscles. Apart from the barre, the programme uses little or no other props. Only bodyweight here. With an entirely different perspective on exercise, Surfset takes the board from the waves to give you a good burn. Inside the studio, customers use a surfboard (not waxed) as an instrument of exercise (waterless, of course). Partly inspired by yoga and high-intensity interval training, the Surfset programmes are designed for strength and flexibility. They’re separated by Balance, Burn, Build, and Blend, each with a specific goal, from building core strength to improving flexibility and focus. If you’re the type that needs a dash of vitality in your workouts, Surfset is a fine choice.

Of course, these represent but a small sampling of the many gyms and programmes re-shaping the city. The rapidly rising popularity of alternative fitness has started to shift from the fringe to the mainstream, and the number of internationallyqualified Thai trainers increases by the day. There’s pilates, yoga, TRX at New Moves, spinning just about everywhere, kettle bells, all kinds of non-stop action going on at The Lab—even Zumba and swing dancing—out there to try. But if you don’t know what you like, and you don’t want to shell out for a pocketful of one-week passes, fear not. The Guava Pass offers access to many dozens of classes, studios, and gyms citywide for only B2999 each month. So you can do yoga on Monday, CrossFit on Tuesday, and the Surfset specials on Wednesday without paying additional fees. To learn more about the deals, visit guavapass.com.

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Blockheads: Yogis practice balance at the community-minded Yogatique 20 | JA N UA RY 2016

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out & about

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Yoga time John Krich gets back on the mat with Bangkok’s budding yogis in a search for enlightment − or maybe just a good workout BY JOHN KRICH

ong before it became the most commonplace piece of advice in the world, I’d tell anyone who wanted to listen that yoga was about the best thing you could ever do for body or mind—the perfect pre-industrial tuneup for humans with sluggish sparkplugs. There was only one problem. I rarely ever got around to doing it myself. But if there’s a most congenial and convenient spot for getting back in the karmic flow, it’s not some remote Himalayan ashram, but gritty, flashy Bangkok. According to Master Kamal, founder of the Kriyoga system that stretches taut bodies in five city locations, there are 120 or so yoga studios in the city and counting. And that’s probably not including all the gyms and clubs that offer something nominally termed yoga on the side, or the various parks and campuses where enthusiasts meet to salute the sun on their own. “This is the biggest urban market outside the US,” states Kamal, who sports

A group class on the mats at Kriyoga bangkok101.com

a skin-tight white bandana and arms as ripped as Schwarzenegger, though I’m not sure anyone has done such a worldwide survey, or that this can be substantiated any more than claims of promoting longevity. If so, why here? Could it be a reflection of Thailand’s inherent closeness and receptivity to all things Indian, in a country where there’s Sanskrit roots to be scratched below every surface? Or that our fair city is always up-todate when it comes to following global trends? That yoga, after all, is the perfect counterweight to the urban crush, noise, and pollution, the quickest and most effective way to tune out? Or simply the most self-absorbed means to seek escape from the self for a largely young and female white-collar crowd while showing off well-toned physiques in spandex and the latest styles of sports bra? Or that Bangkok has a built-in predilection to tending to the body over the mind?

Poses like these at Prem aren’t for the faint of heart JA N UA RY 2016 | 21

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out & about

Deep stretching at Prem Yog and Prana Center And how was a sixty-four-year old supposed to join in all this? After all, I hadn’t been able to touch my toes since the year my entire high school class flunked President Kennedy’s call to national fitness and sadistic gym coaches forced us brainy private school kids through an entire year of unending calisthenics. It was twenty years later, after numerous trips to the mystical East and years of struggle with the bulging waistlines and anxieties of aging that I first took the plunge into the yogic world. And only after searching for years for an equivalent did I come to realize that I had found the perfect means to ease myself in. In a huge, painted Victorian near San Francisco’s Dolores Park, an entire commune of resident hippies who shuttled back and forth to India took turns giving classes in an airy attic just perfect for all forms of transcendence. The Hatha House, as I called it, specialized in the simplest and most straightforward progression of postures—nothing more, nothing less. For even the most inflexible initiates, here was a perfect no-frills, no-name yoga where I never came away sore or stressed by competition urges, but merely a tad calmer, wiser, and properly oxygenated. Never mind that my best move was the so-called corpse pose—essentially, sleeping. If yoga was for me, it could truly be for everyone. And that didn’t mean I had to pressure myself into any tortuous contortions, like the amazing children I would witness in a New Delhi living room twisted into pretzels to demonstrate before a Western reporter how and why yoga should be considered for inclusion in the Olympics. Today, yoga goes by far too many names and brands, plagued by too many gimmicks. There’s Vinyasa, Bikram 22 | JA N UA RY 2016

(hot), Kundalini Iyengar, Ashtanga, and so on, ad finitum. And there’s no consumer protection afforded, no central board to bar or disbar practitioners, no truth in labelling when it comes to achieving “union” (the original meaning of yoga) between the physical and the spiritual. Let the stretcher beware! But isn’t a lotus position a lotus for all (as a rose is a rose is a rose), the downward dog pointing nowhere else but towards the floor no matter how much you fancy it up? The trouble, I found, is that even within specified programs, the variations between individual teachers can be great. At an amazing poster from India exhibited in the lobby of Yoga Elements, the outstanding centre where I first got back into my practice, the final and perhaps most crucial of all the various asanas is the one where the student stoops to touch the feet of his or her guru. I already knew my home studio to be serious and sincere, though the emphasis on Vinyasa—signifying a steady flow of movement to keep up the aerobic level— sometimes proved a bit much for me. So I decided randomly to try out a few more. My first choice was a Sunday morning class at Yogatique, atop a small building on an out-of-the way curve off Sukhumvit 23. The proprietor Minh was an earnest blonde Canadian, despite her Vietnamese nickname. She stressed how much her studio was about building community and giving back to it in charitable ways. (They are also proud of a 30-day yoga challenge, with prizes given to participants.) My class, for instance, was by donation only, with the proceedings going to good causes—a nice way to take the commercial sting out of what was truly a secular religion. As for the bangkok101.com

MEXICANO RESTAURANT ; 1st floor of The Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok Sukhumvit soi 18, Bangkok l Tel : 02 - 261 - 7100 # Mexicano mexicanobkk l www.rembrandtbkk.com

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out & about

Up Dog with instruction at Yogatique

Master Kamal on the steps to enlightenment

Head-first into the Mysore technique

class, I found it a bit disjointed—with the perfect warm-ups of saluting the sun come towards the end, after a number of backward leg pointings I could barely manage. “I had to respond to the energy of the class,” said my teacher in apology for my evident pain. But never mind—it was up to you to respect your own limits. I was more enthralled by the ethos and vibe of Prem Yog and Prana Center, a homemade, three-room centre at the back of a fading condo block along a back curve of Soi 24. Founded by an Indian housewife living in Thailand to help her recover from childbearing and other health issues, the place is decidedly “ailment-centred,” designing specific programmes for various forms of healing. When the Ayurvedic Dr Zakaria arrived (15 minutes late for his afternoon class), looking positively swami-local with his unkempt, two-tone beard, a mere touch of my wrist and ankle pulse with two fingers led him to conclude that I needed a full course of sessions (and that was before I told them I had diabetes!). I vowed to come back to take his advice and try his Mysore-style technique—whatever that was—and I was especially curious to see how a class went with so truly Indian a personage as to not speak a word of English. Speaking of which, I was soon reminded of one of the major pitfalls of the Bangkok yoga scene when I took Master Kamal up on an invitation to sample Kriyoga. Arriving at his huge bright space overlooking the Sky Train in Lang Suan, I was very impressed by a graduation ceremony of followers celebrating teaching certificates with a variety of astounding splits of acrobatics. Kamal, and his assistant Master Cham, a seeming double in terms

of bulging muscles and swashbuckling pirate earrings, seemed to have inspired a true following. “Kri means new life, better life,” he explains, saying his classes build a lot of methods into one in order to take the practice way beyond “just stretching and relaxation.” But once the class started, it seemed suspiciously like the old Hatha basics, only done at more breakneck speed. It was certainly instantly beneficial, if not life-changing, and would have probably been more so except for the fact that the highly energetic and enthusiastic Thai teacher shouted her steady stream of exhortations in a personal lingo that jumped without warning between Thai, English, Tinglish, and just plain Yoga-speak. It’s hard enough to concentrate on rhythms of breathing or get into a contemplative state on command, that much harder when you are straining to understand every word. But this wasn’t the first time I had tried to keep from bursting into laughter at being enjoined to jump from “downward dog ka” to “child’s pose na-ka.” Once again, all the complications and elaborations seemed merely to remind us that nothing can really be simpler. It’s just a matter of breathing in and out. You can even do it at home to video instructions and avoid all of the above. But most of us appear to need company to help us detangle, witness our travails on the mat, requiring the incentive of masters and rigid class schedules to somehow force us back to ourselves. If you meet a yogi wearing a mike, kill it. But I really do plan to keep it up this time, all the way to Nirvana— whether that proves to be a neighbourhood of Bangkok or not.

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making merit

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making merit

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Planting for

the Future

Plant a Tre e Today Foundation Takes Root in Thailand to Educate and Inspire

“

We don’t just plant trees. We plant environmental awareness among local communities,” says Sue Sangkum, Project Executive from Plant a Tree Today (PATT) Foundation. How true that statement is. A UK-based charity and Thai foundation with a global purview, PATT takes action against climate change and deforestation—especially in Asia, a land that PATT founder Andrew Steel considers his second home. Like any endeavour to change behaviour, the arduous task of convincing a nation to spare its trees does not begin with a seedling in the ground, but rather the heart, he says. And so the foundation creates awareness of environmental issues by promoting reforestation initiatives through education, encouraging children, in particular, to become both activists and active learners. “Just planting trees might not help much,” adds Steel, a former English marine with over 15 years of experience working in green business and technology. “So education has to come together with other efforts to raise awareness of the issues we’re facing today.” In Thailand, PATT plants trees at numerous sites countrywide, including a couple on the outskirts of Bangkok: Phra Pradaeng and Bang Pu. The main site is in Ban Subtai at Khao Yai National Park. Here, the nursery can produce more than 20,000 seedlings each year, and to date this site has produced 90,000 trees. All and sundry are invited to visit for nature walks, activities at the nursery, tree planting events, and even the casual perusal of local arts and crafts in the village. Other sites are found in provinces as far-flung as Petchaburi, Trat, Ratchaburi, and Chiang Mai. “Part of our platform is helping local communities manage forests in a sustainable manner,” says Sangkum of PATT’s work above ground. “We also provide great education services to many of the international schools bangkok101.com

in Bangkok. The students seem to love day-long outings with us.” PATT also works to regenerate soil, build up forests, and restore biodiversity while reducing poverty and improving the quality of life in marginalised communities. Outside of Thailand, PATT plants across Asia in countries including Vietnam, India, and Sri Lanka. And now PATT is expanding its project to Dubai and the United Arab Emirates, where it will lead efforts to restore mangroves. But while many people enjoy planting trees, Steel and Sangkum have found that not everyone is concerned about raising them into maturity. So to combat this problem, Steel initiated an aftercare programme at all PATT sites. Every few months in the two to three years after planting a tree, PATT workers weed, fertilize, and monitor sites, ensuring natural and accelerated forest recovery. So far, PATT has planted almost 900,000 trees worldwide—a lofty number, for sure, but still under the foundation’s target of one million. To reach this pinnacle, PATT recently launched the “Plant It Forward” campaign. A lot like the “Ice Bucket Challenge,” the campaign asks people to plant trees in the name of friends and family, who then nominate their friends and family to plant trees, as well. This sort of chain-letter challenge has a great impact, creating positive environmental change at a grassroots level. And after all, according to Steel and Sangkum, this is where change truly begins. PATT welcomes donations, and is always happy to take those interested to planting sites for a day full of green activities, whether on school or business outings or individual trips. Visit pattfoundation.org or email info@ pattfoundation.org for more information or to donate.

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on the blockÂ

Lamphu Tree House

Phra Nakorn Norn Len

CHOMP

Samsen-ite

Cinema Winehouse 28 | JA N UA RY 2016

Adhere the 13th bangkok101.com

on the block

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tai

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ith a boundary described by backpacker bilge and regal charm, it’s easy to see how Soi Samsen could get stuck in no-man’s-land. The not even two-kilometre stretch of concrete connecting the Krung Kasem and Banglamphu Canals is something of a channel for those passing through, but those in-theknow see it for what it truly is—a neighbourhood on the rise, chock-a-block with as many cultural attractions as hidden (and not-so-hidden) gems for the tourist, expat, and local alike. Looking for a decent place to rest your head? There’s no shortage of boutique options here. Casa Nithra is the belle of the ball, and rightly so. This portmanteau of Spanish and Thai tongues fortunately leaves linguistics out of the design—50 well-appointed rooms, limo service, and a rooftop pool add a splash of luxury to this hardscrabble urban location, and with reasonable prices. The so-called “flashpacking” crowd—and couples, too—will enjoy Lamphu Tree House, with its sumptuous silks, Buddhist-inspired hanging art, and dark teak setting. Not to mention the pocket-friendly rates. Perennial favourite Phra Nakorn Norn Len earns abundant style points for its worn pastel wood and vintage mystique, as well as its in-house arts and crafts classes run under the equally twee name Phra Nakorn Tam Len (tie-dying, sewing, soap-making, and more). Phra Nakorn Norn Len is just one of a group of small, independent hotels that have united to share the best aspects of their neighbourhood. bangkok101.com

Rd pa tai

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Restaurant

Poutine Sans Frontiere

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May Kaidee

Adhere the 13th

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Cinema Winehouse

Casa Nithra

Phranakorn Nornlen, Phranakorn Thumlen

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Cook Chom

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Small Hotels of Bangkok offer news and advice about Bangkok, as well as meet-ups, including free night-time bike tours for guests staying at their hotels. Pretty cool. When hunger strikes—and it will—you won’t have to look hard for a good meal. Vegetarians, in particular. The inestimable May Kaidee has a branch just beyond the bridge that crosses the Banglamphu canal, and CHOMP on Samsen Soi 1 offers soul food for meat-eaters and veggies alike, as well as monthly art exhibitions and frequent community-minded classes (check page 80 for a more detailed review). And, further afield, near the Thewet Pier, Cook Chom serves food inspired by his years of work in five-star hotels, but for a fraction of the prize. Still, sometimes nothing beats a taste of home (even if it isn’t a taste of “home,” per se, but rather a taste of the West). Poutine, the not so picturesque concoction of cheese curds, chips, and gravy so popular in Canada makes a rare Bangkok sighting at aptly named Poutine Sans Frontiere, very much tucked away on Samsen Soi 2. At night, deny the urge for brown-ish liquid in plastic buckets, put on a shirt with sleeves (a.k.a. a T-shirt), and mosey on over to Cinema Winehouse. The name says it all: movies and wine in an old shophouse. But if you love music, go directly to Adhere the 13th, known colloquially as the Blues Bar. This extremely cramped, wingspan-wide bar is an institution, with some of the best live blues in the city. Grab a Beer Lao and settle in for a long night. You won’t be going far. You won’t have to. JA N UA RY 2016 | 29

Photo Credit: Manit Sriwanichpoom

DOES GREAT WEALTH COME AT GREATER COSTS? 30 | JA N UA RY 2016

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insight

S N A P S H OT S

Tom’s Two Satang Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture – from art and festivals to 21st-century trends – in a lighthearted yet learned manner

ON WEALTH

valuating a country’s success seems to depend on one’s point of view. Do we prefer GDP (Gross Domestic Product) or GNH (Gross National Happiness)? Well-being or prosperity, or perhaps, as it so often seems the case in Thailand, well-being through prosperity. But can we truly quantify happiness in terms of material development? While, measure for measure, economic performance often outguns spiritual values, even in this era of the sufficiency economy, the meaning we place on wealth here is not always so clear-cut. Like a coin, wealth itself has two sides. On the face of it, wealth represents what many people desire and hold dear. Steady economic growth, infrastructural development and expansion, more foreign investment, high-performing exports, and favourable exchange rates—the lingua franca of CNBC—always bring good news. In spiritual matters, when one has more to spare, one can be a better Buddhist, as in the example of Vessantara, the last Chataka in the previous ten lives of the Lord Buddha. The moral of this story is the virtue of charity, philanthropy, and giving: share your fortune in this life to move on to Nirvana. On the other side of the coin, money can be the root of evil. In mild cases, it leads to conspicuous public consumption, and in more severe circumstances, it brings out the worst of our vices—stealing, gambling, corruption, tax evasion, and money laundering. In contrast to the sufficiency economy, wealth is widely worshipped. Fame and fortune don’t just favour the rich, but also amplify their true characters, drawing out greed, vanity, and arrogance. But the ability to buy designer clothes on a whim doesn’t mean one can buy taste. In the past, visitors might have criticised the distribution of wealth in Thailand. Nowadays, abject poverty can only be seen in some areas. A middle class has risen, and it has begun to prosper in all kinds of industries. Yet despite this change, the income gap is widening. Now we boast more oligarchs than ever on the Forbes List. Through economic booms and recessions, Thailand has continually bounced back and thrived, with or without bursting the bubble. However, sadly, better sense of mind doesn’t come with making more money. bangkok101.com

Like things that really matter in life, happiness is priceless. In Buddhism, it is found from within and is fleeting. In terms of GNH, it is measured via sustainable development, preservation and promotion of cultural values, conservation of the natural environment, and establishment of good governance. Thailand has never lost her world-famous smiles, but are we truly happy? While our standard of living has improved, our quality of life has decreased. When wretched excess is just barely enough, more only generates more. We get stuck in traffic because we have more cars to use, more units in condominiums to own, and more shopping malls to frequent. When will enough of these things be enough? Where are the parks, hospitals, schools, libraries, museums, and cultural, recreational, and learning centres? We are forgetting what truly matter in life—our health and wisdom. Along those lines, Thailand has an abundance of resources, but we often mismanage them. We have depleted our natural capital in the name of prosperity, progress, and physical fortune. Our pristine tropical land has surrendered its space to concrete, our summerlike sky to the mist of pollution. Instead of filling our minds with knowledge, media in its various forms have bombarded us with mindless messages and communiqués. The country’s human capital—and more importantly its development— lags behind its neighbours’. A teacher friend once told me that rich parents of her students didn’t care about their child’s grades, because, they said, they have tonnes of money to spend, enough for generations. Well, there goes hope for the future of our nation! What is worse, we are losing sight of our most important asset: time. We seem to spend more of it on material wealth than welfare, and we certainly do not spend enough time with one another. Sure, possessions may shower us with comfort and luxury, but superfluous items will not make us better-off. Ownership does not equate happiness, although still, I admit, sometimes when I think of the consumerist state in Thailand, I flippantly think of that old adage: “People who say money can’t buy happiness just don’t know where to shop.” JA N UA RY 2016 | 31

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Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok.

LETTERS FROM BUDDHADASA

uddhadasa Bhikkhu, Thailand’s most famous monk and one of the 20th century’s most influential ascetic-philosophers, was born Nguam Panich in Chaiya, Surat Thani in 1906. He was ordained as a Buddhist monk at age 20, taking the name ‘Phra Indapanno’. He spent many years studying Pali Buddhist scriptures before retreating to the forest for six years of solitary meditation. Returning to ecclesiastical society, he was offered a high rank but instead founded his own forest monastery, Wat Suanmokkhabalaram, in 1932 as an alternative to orthodox Thai monasteries. Here he developed an ecumenical philosophy that comprised Zen, Taoist and Christian elements as well as the traditional Theravada schemata. He changed his name to ‘Buddhadasa’—Pali for ‘Servant of the Buddha’. During Thailand’s turbulent 1970s, many Thai nationalists branded the monk a communist because of his sharp critiques of capitalism, which he saw as a catalyst for greed. Meanwhile, religious scholar Donald K Swearer compared Buddhadasa to the early Indian philosopher Nagarjuna for his reformist efforts. The great monk passed away in July 1993 after a long illness but his legacy lives on in the 120-hectare monastery and adjacent international meditation centre he founded in Chaiya. 32 | JA N UA RY 2016

In 2010, a private foundation opened Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives, an ambitious facility in Bangkok’s Vachirabenjatas Park—more commonly called Railway Park (Suan Rot Fai in Thai) near Chatuchak Weekend Market—to archive the monk’s prestigious literary legacy. The centre is sometimes referred to as ‘Suanmok Bangkok’. In keeping with Buddhadasa’s penchant for Zen teachings, the archives feature clean and simple lines, alternating unpolished and polished concrete in grey and black. An artificial lake along one side of the building adds a cooling effect. The structure almost ‘floats’ on the pond and breezes from the water are drawn into open-side pavilions and verandas attached to the archives. The only exterior decorative features consist of large terracotta plaques, facsimiles of didactic 2,000-year-old bas-reliefs found at the grand Buddhist stupas of Sanchi, Bharhut and Amaravati in India. On the day we visited, a traditional Thai music ensemble performed outdoors in an amphitheatre in one of the pavilions. The curved wall along the back of the amphitheatre is also decorated with terracotta bas-relief plaques, along with an over-sized copy of the famous Srivijaya Buddha figure from Chaiya. Volunteers dressed in white stroll the grounds daily, available to answer questions and explain Buddhadasa’s bangkok101.com

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natural approach to dhamma (the Buddha’s teachings). Printed publications are available in the ground-floor Dhamma Books & Media. In addition to many titles by Ajahn Buddhadasa, the shop carries books by Ajahn Cha, Ajahn Pasanno, Thich Nhat Hanh, Ajahn Jayasaro and Phra W Vajiramedhi. Most are in Thai, but there is a smattering of titles published in English, Spanish, French and German. On the second floor are two meditation rooms with large windows that provide stunning views over the park. A veranda outside the meditation rooms is decorated with a collection of photographs and enlarged reproductions of verses composed and hand-written by Ajahn Buddhadasa. Other Buddhist art is also exhibited on the walls of this floor, including temporary exhibits. The third floor is occupied by meeting rooms, reading rooms and the main archives, where a comprehensive collection of Buddhadasa’s original writings—including letters, poetry and journals—is archived. In total, it is estimated that the archives include 20,000 items classified as text, along with 50,000 drawings and 1900 gigabytes of voice recordings. The Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives Foundation is in the process of converting all the documents into digital format and storing them on a bangkok101.com

S N A P S H OT S

database that will be made available online to members of the general public. Also on the third floor is a connected series of rooms containing large interactive exhibits. A pebbled walkway leads to the main room, dimly lit so that video projections—such as one showing drops of water going in and out of a pond – may be more comfortably viewed. The floor is strewn with meditation cushions and visitors are invited to sit down and quiet their minds while contemplating concepts of nibbana. A veranda accessed by automatic glass doors overlooks the lake, and is a good place for walking meditation. Bulletin boards on the ground floor post upcoming activities and events. One of the most prominent regular events is the Sunday morning “Dhamma in the Park” series, consisting of dhamma talks by visiting monks, discussion sessions organised by the Buddhadasa Book Club, along with meditation, Tai Chi and yoga workshops.

Buddhadasa Indapanno Archi ves (BIA) Kamphaeng Phet 1 Rd, Railway Park, Chatuchak 0 2936 2800 | bia.or.th

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Bizarre

Thailand

A long-term resident of Thailand, Jim Algie has compiled some of his strangest trips, weirdest experiences and funniest stories into the nonfiction compilation ‘Bizarre Thailand’ (Marshall Cavendish 2010). More bytes and pixels at www.jimalgie.com.

HARD-LINE JOURNALISM

In this final excerpt from the history tome, Americans in Thailand, Jim Algie looks at the life of the gutsy newsman, Alexander MacDonald, who founded the Bangkok Post and was forced to leave the country by military strongmen.

he Bangkok that Jim Thompson and Alexander MacDonald arrived in following the Japanese surrender in August 1945 was a city in turmoil amidst a kingdom mired in dire economic straits. Rice, its number one export, had been decimated by the hostilities, as had its other main industries, teakwood, tin and rubber. Add a labor sector in chaos, a shaky government, rampaging inflation, and a huge trade in arms left over from the war to the equation and this was a time of seismic change. As the dust and debris settled, the country founds itself ensnared in diplomatic wrangles and the stigma of being seen as Japanese collaborators. Thailand’s post-war shakeup received another jolt when King Ananda was found dead of a gunshot wound to the head in his bedroom in the palace in June 1946. 34 | JA N UA RY 2016

Only 21, the young monarch’s death remains a bone of contention stuck in the throat of royalists, anti-monarchists and the fringe of conspiracy theorists. The mystery has never been resolved, even though two royal pages and a secretary were executed for their alleged complicity in regicide in 1955. Much more certain was that the gun lying by his side, an army-issue Colt .45 pistol, had been a gift from Alexander MacDonald. Hailing from Massachusetts, he was a journalist by trade and a soldier by choice, enlisting after Pearl Harbor to do his patriotic duty. MacDonald trained at the same OSS camp as Jim Thompson, the future silk trader. Both retired from military life to stay on in Bangkok where MacDonald decided to author a new chapter in his life story as a newspaper publisher in Bangkok. In covering King Ananda’s death, bangkok101.com

highlight MacDonald had a scoop on his hands. That story, penned for the Associated Press as a stringer, helped to underwrite the founding of The Bangkok Post. Around then, MacDonald had discovered a rotary printing press from Japan in a rundown mansion alongside the canal of Krung Kasem in what is now the backpacker ghetto of Banglamphu. MacDonald tracked down two Japanese POWs in Bangkok who knew how to run the press and wanted to stay on in the capital. They trained the Thai staff how to operate it. Today, the machine sits in the lobby of the paper, complete with the small wooden boxes that held the individual letters of type used to make the original four-page newspaper, which appeared on August 1, 1946 with no photos on the front page. The paper was a risky venture. In a city with a population of a few hundred thousand, the Minister of Communications told MacDonald over a dinner at the Rose Garden Palace (Suan Kularp), where he and Thompson were first billeted with the OSS, that only a few thousand of them spoke and read English. To cut his potential losses, the publisher priced the paper at a then-exorbitant one baht per issue ($4 dollars in today’s money). One of the paper’s main columns, “Postmen Say,” was ghostwritten by MacDonald who used it as a sounding board to voice his grievances with the powers-that-be. The column soon became contentious for its hard-hitting stance on military rule and police brutality. As an intelligence officer, he was both friendly with and loyal to Pridi Banomyong, the head of the anti-Japanese resistance movement, Seri Thai, who had been accused of complicity in King Ananda’s death but remained a political force to be reckoned with. By contrast, MacDonald lambasted wartime premier Pibul as “one of the quislings of World War II” in his column, a slight that was no doubt remembered when Pibul returned to power in 1947 after another coup. This was a dangerous time for journalists in Bangkok. MacDonald had reported in his column about reporters being shot or beaten up, alleging that the police refused to investigate them, or in many cases, covered them up. The newsman had another scoop on his hands when Pridi staged a coup in 1949 with backing from the Navy and a cache of arms once used by Seri Thai. Known as the “Palace Rebellion” because Pridi’s forces took over the Grand Palace to use as their base of operations, the army quelled the uprising overnight. In the aftermath, four of Pridi’s former cabinet ministers were rounded up and died while in police custody. MacDonald sent one of his Thai reporters to the morgue. As he related in his memoir, Bangkok Editor, “Prapon came back badly broken up. He sobbed as he described the four bodies lying in the morgue. The face of one had been burned, as though with lighted cigarettes, he said. The legs of three of them had been broken. Their faces were terribly swollen from beating, and one’s ribs had been crushed in. They were riddled with bullets.” That same day the Post ran a gutsy story with the title, “Four Ex-Ministers Killed by Police,” which described the condition of the corpses. On the following day, the police department issued their version of events, claiming that the four men were caught in the crossfire of a rescue attempt staged by their collaborators while being transferred to another cell. Nobody believed the police account, MacDonald said. He countered it bangkok101.com

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with an editorial entitled “Trial by Trigger” that demanded accountability and that such crimes should be tried in court. As a result, for the next three weeks the Post had to be submitted to a Board of Censors before it could go to the printers. After the aborted coup, in a pattern that has repeated itself up until the latest putsch in 2014, the military muzzled the press and rounded up dissenters. Any journalists who did not toe the military’s party line were threatened. But MacDonald was lucky, or perhaps too high profile and well connected, to end up in the crosshairs of the police or army. Published in 1949, the autobiography did not mention the gun of his found beside King Ananda, though he did try to set the record straight in his 1990 memoir My Footloose Newspaper Life, explaining how he was called before a commission at the Hall of Justice in Bangkok, where he admitted giving the gun to the king as a gift, but the prosecutor said ballistics tests revealed that the weapon had not been fired in days before the king was shot and that the bullet found in the mattress came from a different firearm. These disclosures aside, his first memoir remains the more detailed chronicle of Thailand in the late ‘40s, affectionately evoking that era when he was a self-described “New England Yankee in the Siamese court,” savoring lavish dinners with six different wines and hobnobbing with bluebloods at the Rose Garden Palace. But the grittier aspects of street life held equal appeal for him. From the old office of the newspaper near the Golden Mount, he observed the canals teeming with boats, logs of teak and waterborne hawkers, the streets crowded with vendors carrying their wares and portable eateries on shoulder poles next to Indian farmers in dhotis herding their goats down the middle of the streets, to the constant refrain of bicycle rickshaw drivers ringing their bells. In Bangkok Editor MacDonald sounded all the notes of the capital’s siren song that still entices tourists and expatriates alike. “Bangkok was a wily, yet guileless city, always ready with new surprises. It was deeply devoted to the arts of pleasure. If nothing else, this would have been enough for me. I wanted to stay in Bangkok—with palace or without palace.” The terms of MacDonald’s departure from Thailand are still sketchy. In the second memoir he said he was invited to the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in June 1953, returned to his home state after that and decided not to go back to Thailand. The Los Angeles Times obituary for him, after his passing at the age of 92, gave the departure a more sinister overtone. “In the early 1950s he was ousted from the paper and ejected from Thailand by a military regime that opposed the Post’s reporting.”

This is the second instalment of the story of Jim Thompson’s disappearance in the Cameron Highlands in 1967. The first ran in the October issue of Bangkok 101. To read more about Thompson and other prominent expats like him, pick up a copy of Americans in Thailand, a lavishly illustrated hardcover history book on sale at Asia Books and Kinokuniya in Bangkok for B1295.

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very thai

MALE GROOMING LOOKS MATTER TO A MAN

ips subtly glossed, powdery foundation coating a moisturised complexion, the young man with gelled K-Pop hair flashes one trimmed armpit bleached with whitening deodorant as he grabs a pole on the SkyTrain. His girlfriend isn’t the only one using cosmetics. With jao sam-ang (young dandies) treating the SkyTrain as a fashion promenade, the Bangkok Post proclaimed in 2003: “the City of Angels appears to be well on the way to becoming a Mecca for metrosexuals.” …Several cultural traits make men keen to groom. The model of Thai manhood isn’t sweaty, muscle-bound Rambo, but refined, soft-spoken Rama. Critic Chetana Nagavarjara notes a “disregard for male robustness, and a bent for ‘effeminacy’ on the construction of the hero figure” in Thai literature, though the genteel official narrative is partly a denial of the Rambo laddishness in real Thai life. Make-up in likay folk opera must emphasise the prettiness of the phra ek (leading man), which the largely female fans demand. Similarly, youths are happy to primp like Japanese boy bands in order to please their girlfriend. Underlying the Thai proverb “a chicken’s beauty is due to its feathers, a person’s because of dressing well,”

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B 995

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as writer Mont Redmond points out, “it is assumed that all humans desire to be beautiful, and that being well dressed is as natural to man as being fully feathered is to a chicken.” Today’s real men, despising uncouth macho laddishness, still largely aspire to courtesy, conformity and plumage befitting rank. Older men thus exude status if they are taeng tua dii (good dressers). In the 1990s and 2000s, political faction leaders were mocked for their gaudy Versace shirts. Now they outdo each other with outlandish watches. …Preening also has practical origins. The climate’s heat and dust necessitate frequent showers and skin protection. While male cosmetics brands may be new, Thais have long used powder. Talc holds both sweat and sun at bay, keeping skin pale, dry and cool. Some men now use anti-UV moisturiser then powder or foundation. When Bangkok’s first smart, non-hotel spa opened in 2001, half its clients were men. Again it was a small leap, given eons of pampering skin and muscles through massage, prai-infused steam, and herbs like turmeric. In the end, though, looking handsome is not about hair and skin conditioning, but social conditioning.

Now out in an expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a book that almost every foreign resident has on their reading table, a virtual bible on Thai pop culture. Now with four extra chapters, 64 more pages and a third of the 590 photographs being new, it guides you on a unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 70 chapters, we present a different excerpt every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop.

bangkok101.com

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Wat Pho has a long and rich tradition of wellness - just ask this guy 38 | JA N UA RY 2016

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heritage

S N A P S H OT S

WAT PHO WISDOM Experiencing the Art of Thai Healing at the Wat Pho Thai Traditional Medical and Massage School BY LUC CITRINOT

at Pho is a sanctuary of superlatives: it is Bangkok’s oldest temple, originally founded in the 16th century and renovated under the orders of King Rama I in 1788; it has the largest collection of Buddha images of any temple in the Thai capital—some 800 representations in all, including the most famous, its 46-metre reclining Buddha; and it is home to Bangkok’s oldest institution of traditional Thai massage. But how did a Royal first class temple end up housing a massage school, of all things? Centuries ago, during the Ayutthaya period, a time of turmoil and fighting with neighbouring empires, temples were strongholds of Thai knowledge and wisdom. When Ayutthaya was ransacked by the Burmese, the city’s monks fled, resettling first in Thonburi. Wat Pho’s proximity to King Taksin’s capital led to its designation as a royal temple. Soon it became the new bastion of knowledge. Filled with relics from the glory days of the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya dynasties, it gradually developed into the first “open” university for all Siamese. And the traditional art of healing, including massage, was part of the school’s curriculum. In its foundation, the Wat Pho Traditional Medical and Massage School followed the scripture of ancient Siamese medical texts and massage techniques, collected by Siam King Rama II and King Rama III. Today it assumes the same role, preserving ancient healing traditions through teaching, training, and even visuals: from the gardens to the statues, visitors can survey teachings on stretching and meditation. During his reign, King Rama III ordered the creation of sixty stone carvings illustrating the art of Thai healing and massage. A Royal doctor, Phraya Bamroer Rajaphat, was appointed to engrave the collective knowledge of Thai medical science in stone around the Phra Maha Chedi and Sala Rai cloisters. The informative—and artistically magnificent—pieces would pass information from one generation to the next. Then in 1856, King Rama V appointed his royal doctors to translate the Pali-Sanskrit book of medical science into Thai, a book used more commonly as old languages fell out of practice. Thus the bangkok101.com

curriculum modernized, and Wat Pho became a place of higher education, albeit an unlikely one. In 1955, the Wat Pho Thai Traditional Medical and Massage School opened inside the monastery. It was the first medical school to receive official approval from Thailand’s Ministry of Education (a private medical centre exists there today, teaching only traditional medicine). Now the school not only provides massage for visitors, but also massage training. There are 14 courses, ranging from general teaching to specific practices—massage for pregnant women, massage for infants, facial massage. An “accelerated version,” teaching the basics of traditional massage, comprises 30 hours of lessons a week. Priced at B9500, it is ideal for short-time visitors and lasts from 9am to 4pm every day. Longer courses last for 10 days. The career-minded can join the 165-hour course, which includes 100 hours of practical and 65 hours of theoretical sessions with an exam at the end of the training (and a diploma, too). The course takes about one month and is priced at B45000, including meals and accommodation.

Old art sharing Wat Pho’s medical history Wat Pho Thai Traditional Medical School 392/33-34 Maharaj Rd | 0 2622 3551, 0 2622 3533 watpo.ttm@gmail.com | watpomassage.com

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STIMULATE THE MIND DURING YOUR TRAVELS THIS MONTH AT TEDXCHIANGMAI 4 0 | JA N UA RY 2016

bangkok101.com

TEDXCHIANGMAI

CHIANG MAI T

ED, the often-YouTubed conference with the slogan “Ideas Worth Spreading,” is by now a household name. You’ve probably watched a video or two online, or have been sent a link to one. Well, now you have the opportunity to catch the conference in person. After a year off, TEDxChiangmai returns on January 30, and the discussions should be as thought-provoking as ever. Following the success of TEDxDoisuthep in 2011 and TEDxThapaegate in 2012, the conference branched out to incorporate all of Chiang Mai. Now, throughout the year, the organizers (who have obtained the necessary free licence from the larger TED body to operate independently) hold smaller events and activities. But the large annual meet-up of creative minds happens only once. TEDxChiangmai 2016 arrives under the theme “Dare to…”—dare to be yourself, dare to do, dare to dream, and dare to change perspective. Over 20 speakers and artists from communities around the globe will take the stage at Le Méridien Chiang Mai to share ideas, encouraging audience members to develop their own, as well. Between the talks, the conference offers ample opportunities to meet creative and interesting people, perhaps to partner with, while having a genuinely good time. Past speakers have included the CEO of Microsoft Thailand, Haresh Khoobchandani; Thailand’s first astronaut, Pirada Techavijit; and the famous architect Duangrit Bunnag. Word isn’t yet out on all of this year’s speakers, but Bangkok 101’s very own writing sage Joe Cummings is scheduled to talk. The talks will be both in Thai and in English. Tickets are available at tedxchiangmai.com. Bring a valid ID or passport to borrow headsets for simultaneous translation. While you’re there, be sure to get involved with some of the activities, and enjoy the great food, too, while you build new connections.

bangkok101.com

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upcountry now

January 7 – 10 PIMEX Phuket International Boat Show 2016 The 13th anniversary of PIMEX once again showcases the best of the best marine and lifestyle businesses, as well as the industry’s products and services. There will be as many as 100 exhibiting companies representing brands from across the globe. A waterside space will cater to trailer boats, marine products, and widgets. Floor plan and booking details are available at phuketboatshow.com.

January 15 – 17 Bor Sang Umbrella Festival The little community of Bor Sang, just east of Chiang Mai, is often referred to as the “Umbrella Village,” and rightly so. During this celebration of the delicately hand-painted saa-paper and silk parasols it churns out, bands play, lanterns line the main street, and villagers compete to win the award for the year’s prettiest. Nearby San Kamphaeng also gets in on the act with its own handicrafts fair.

January 30 – 31 Cheeze Car Boot Sale 2016 Bangkok’s leading street fashion publication Cheeze Magazine invites one and all for another instalment of the Cheeze “Carbootsale Festival,” billed as the biggest flea market in Thailand where goods are dealt from the boots of cars. Besides tons of fashion, there will also be many food stalls, movies screened at an outdoor cinema, fun activities for all ages, and free concerts by some of Thailand’s leading artists and musicians. The event takes place at Mountain Creek Golf Resort and Residences (Khao Yai, Nakhon Ratchasima). Entry is free.

January 31 Active Run International 2016 A new run promoting active, healthy lifestyles arrives in Pattaya this month. The Nongnooch Garden Active Run International 2016, organized by Refill Marathon & Lifestyle Magazine, offers athletes of all levels a handful of distances to choose from—21.1k, 10k, and 4k − all run at the verdant Nongnooch Garden Pattaya Resort. What better way to support and celebrate your well-being in the new year?

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bangkok101.com

upcountry now

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Until January 31 Lopburi Sunflower Festival If you’re an aspiring Van Gogh, or just plain into flowers, you’re in luck this month, as endless fields of sunflowers are now in bloom in nearby Lopburi. The perfect location for an outdoorsy daytrip—only an hour and a half away by car—locals flock here to photograph and roam amidst the tall, sun-dappled flowers, which usually hang around until February. They’re also in bloom in nearby Saraburi.

February 5 – 7 Chiang Mai Flower Festival Outside of Japan’s Sakura Flower Festival, you’ve probably never seen such amazing things done with flowers. Head down to Buak Hat Park at the southwest corner of the Old City and check out amazing floats festooned with fanciful floral designs that would melt even the most brittle Bauhaus heart. There will also be several floral art installations and the requisite beauty contests, music, and petal-ish stuff for purchase. Make sure to wear some flowers in your hair.

Until February 29 Phu Ruea Flower Festival The Tourism Authority of Thailand, in cooperation with Loei’s local sectors, invites tourists to experience the winter breeze among a sea of fog and floral fields in the small district of Phu Ruea. At the events, local booths showcase the spectacular winter plants and flowers that can only be found in only this part of Thailand. The view point will also be decorated for this special season. Local food and products are also widely available.

Until February 29 Udon Thani’s Amazing Red Lotus Sea For three months of the year, the “red lotus sea” in Kum Pavapi district, Udon Thani, is covered with beautiful lotus flowers, blooming alongside other aquatic plants on the lake. The perfect time to visit is in the morning, from 6am to 11am, but tourists can take a sightseeing boat tour any time of day. Check with TAT Udon Thani at 0 4232 5496 or 0 4232 6436 for the best times to see this sea of red.

bangkok101.com

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hotel review

ONE NIGHT IN PATTAYA A Relatively Honest Review of the Hilton Pattaya BY CAMERON COOPER

h, the legendary Hilton. The grand old hotel chain’s name summons the days of steamer trunks, eyebrow-pencilled and powdered women dripping in furs and diamonds, with lively bellhops wearing organ grinder’s monkey hats. Its tradition is very New York, very Chicago, very “Hey, what gives?!” and “Why I oughta give you a knuckle sandwich!” There were fedoras, and everything, including the wooden phone booths, was in grainy black and white. It was where you stayed when you made the big score on the gems hidden inside the Maltese Falcon. Or if you were a Rockefeller. But times have changed, and hotels have changed with them. Conrad Hilton may never have envisaged a Hilton in one of the world’s more bizarre and unlikely holiday 4 4 | JA N UA RY 2016

destinations—that phenomenon known as Pattaya. This place was still a small fishing village when Conrad died in 1979 at an age befitting a Japanese politician. But there are now 540 Hilton-branded hotels throughout the world in 78 countries on every continent except Antarctica—so why not here? And thus it has been so since 2009. Located atop the Central Festival Pattaya Beach shopping mall, the hotel towers over the ever-exploding city, its residents and visitors appearing like ants in a frenzy of seemingly random activity below. The design is very modern, quite stunningly attractive— with a sea theme that includes decorative giant polished beach “rocks” made of fiberglass, among other striking visuals. It has won international hotel awards, apparently. bangkok101.com

hotel review

The hotel’s bars, restaurants, pool area, and rooms take clever advantage of the sea view over Pattaya Bay, which, since the local administration cleaned up the waters, is surprisingly pretty day or night, as is the somewhat architecturally confused city once the lights are on. You’d never guess at the holidaymaking goings-on 100 metres below you if you didn’t bring binoculars. And so any of the three restaurants and two bars are well worth a visit—even for non-guests—for the view and ambience alone. The food is very good, too. Dining in the Horizon Restaurant, the braised lamb shank and lobster risotto that made up our main courses were very nice indeed. And though you wouldn’t call the dishes adventurous in a cuttingedge gourmand way (no molecular experiments here), it was top quality and unquestionably superior to some of Pattaya’s ground-level dining options, such as the now-empty Russian eateries where bowel sausage and cabbage are the most popular main course (though, on the bright side, at those places vodka is usually the soupe du jour). The rooms are nicely appointed, with the requisite rain shower, standalone bathtub, big TV, and panoramic balcony doors. You could quite easily spend your days inside, in clean and air-conditioned comfort, soaking up the sea views. bangkok101.com

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The breakfast buffet, varied as it was, and of very good quality, was a tad homogenous, as they all seem to be these days. It is admittedly tricky catering to multiple nationalities and their insistent tastes (congee, cornflakes, eggs any style, over-sweetened juices, sushi rolls, etc.) But there was the usual pet peeve; the conveyor belt toaster never actually browns your bread, requiring some personal adjustments, the results of which appeared to disappoint those who followed me, painful dismay darkening their faces as their properly-toasted toast slid down the stainless chute. And the bacon is kept behind the counter, doled out on request, which tells you something about the average guest’s lack of restraint. Is the Pattaya Hilton perfect? Of course not—no place is. But is it nice? Absolutely. So if you want to stay in pretty darn luxurious surroundings in the so-called heart of Pattaya—and perhaps even spend your entire holiday in blissful isolation, not descending into the belly of the beast, except maybe to shop in the climate-controlled mall downstairs—then the Hilton makes a fine choice.

HILTON PATTAYA 333/101, Nong Prue | 0 3825 3000 | hilton.com

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hotel review

MARRIOTT EXECUTIVE APARTMENTS Comfort for the Long or Short Term

istro M on Sukhumvit 24, with its wide windows fronting the street, is crowded most of the time. In a neighbourhood that can seem like a cavalcade of guarded condos and a sterile holding tank for transient business types, this café, bakery, coffee shop, eatery, and wine bar functions more like an honest-to-goodness hangout. And when the Marriott Executive Apartments advertise themselves as not just a “place to stay” but a “place to live,” they truly stand behind it. There’s no brusque concierge here, no bellboys hustling for tips, no lines for check-in by automaton clerks. Instead, there’s individualized service and a welcome by a representative much in the manner of a bank officer. And even though the Marriott’s rooms are all suites, one-bedroom and bigger—let by the month, week, or night—you won’t need to apply for a loan to stay here either. Amenities include two large TVs and a DVD player, a large fridge to store supplies and stock up on ingredients for use in the generous cooking facilities, a full couch, and a wider-than-King-sized bed. An oblong pool, gym, and spa are also more generous than the usual cramped industry standards. But it’s the staff who really do appear genuine in their attentive caring. As for the aforementioned M, they’ve become known for such innovations as pad thai pizza and wine tastings. As a short-term or long-term tenant, the greatest area of interest is probably their breakfast buffets. Breakfast, as the nutritionists tell us, is the main meal of the day—and it’s certainly the main perk most hotel goers will want to gauge and talk about when they get 46 | JA N UA RY 2016

home. Here, the attention to detail is almost obsessive. Given its relative size and price level, the Bistro M breakfast has to be one of the best in town. The usual styles of egg can be ordered ahead in writing, specifying sunny-side or otherwise. Next to the typical selection of juices are handpressed melon and berry juices—with no sugar added. There’s a selection of Indian curries with roti, including a superb stew of green eggplants. Isaan sausage and actually decent bacon, instead of the more stringy and tasteless variety often served, are the norm as well. Forget the airy commercial bread from a package, here it’s all with character and depth, seeded or rye. Where else in Bangkok can you have a salad nicoise or a pasta of cream sauce, ham, and peas to start the day? Of course, there’s a pick of Chinese noodles and various pork and fish ball add-ons. And the new pride of Bistro M is the buffet’s modest but concentrated Japanese section. Now there’s a miso soup option, accompanied by pickled cucumbers and daikon, and even that most Japanese of delicacies, fermented natto beans. The Marriott Executive Apartments may look like yet another column of marble, steel, and mirrors, rows of identical hallways and security locks. But it’s a place where small touches make a big impression and hospitality means trying something a little different.

MARRIOTT EXECUTIVE APARTMENTS SUKHUMVIT PARK, BANGKOK 90 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2302 5555 | marriott.com

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upcountry escape

The Road Less Travelled 7 of the Best Up countr y Races Coming Up this Wint er

eddings, pop-up markets, cinema under the stars, macro-brewed beer gardens with live music and meals to share, massive music festivals at country clubs, vineyards, and green mountain estates—winter in Thailand is the season for practically everything outdoorsy, so it should come as no surprise that the suddenly crisp weather also marks an influx of weekend running events nationwide. It’s racing season, in other words, and not only in the capital. Until the end of March, nearly every weekend presents another opportunity to test your fitness at a mini-, half-, full-, or ultra-marathon.

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Beyond the obvious benefits (running is good for your heart, your waistline, and even your temper), joining a race upcountry breaks the bad habits of routine. When you travel, you get out of your bubble. You taste uncommon flavours, sleep on different sheets, and feel grass beneath your feet again. At the end of the trip, maybe, just maybe, you return to the city a happier person. So make the most of the cool climate while it lasts—by April, you’ll be clamouring for the relative comfort of January—pack your bags with Lycra and lock laces and head out of town for one of these races. bangkok101.com

upcountry escape

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KHON KAEN MARATHON

PHASOM TRAIL In the North, a new trail race with relatively cryptic details has garnered the attention of those with a thirst for the extreme. Phasom Trail on January 24 is the rugged contrast to Khon Kaen’s tidy and well-oiled road course. The trail will incorporate the ravishing foliage and hills of Samoeng, an expansive district in the province of Chiang Mai, throughout some bizarre-sounding races. The distances do not look intimidating on paper—2.8k fun run, 12.5k dam run, 20k fire run—but the courses will include steep hills, so distance means little in this context. The race will be hard. Adding intrigue to exercise, the dam run and fire run raise awareness of environmental issues while also uniting villagers with outsiders, so it’s a win-win for travelling athletes and the local community.

The more competitive crowds should head to Isaan on January 24 for what is, quite frankly, the best long-distance road race in Thailand. The Khon Kaen Marathon has this whole organization thing down to a science. The course is accurately marked, challenging but not brutal, and lined with local support. Expect to hear lots of “su su!”—or “fight on!”—chanted over Isaan rock music, even as early as 4.15am, when the marathon starts. Nearing the finish, runners weave through the university, where cheerleaders are out in droves, giving that extra thrust of motivation to reach the line. A sort of rarity here, the race is also chip-timed, and so human errors are kept to a minimum. Once the race is over, those in the top five of every age group and distance quickly retrieve trophies and cash prizes on stage in the university auditorium. While prizes sweeten the pot, excellent conditions seal the deal. The weather tends to be so chilly in the morning that runners wear gloves, even those doing the 10.5k. Add in a dash of Isaan flavour, and there’s little not to love about this experience.

CHOMBUENG MARATHON

COLUMBIA TRAIL MASTERS

January is packed. For the running inclined, that means options abound. One of the best-organized races this month is the annual Chombueng Marathon in Ratchaburi, this year held on January 17. Runners can sign up for a 10.5k, half-marathon, or the full monty: the marathon. What distinguishes this race from others is the way the local community gets involved. As marathon runners traverse the 11 villages incorporated in Chombueng’s three districts, locals line the course, cheering on the thundering herds. Even young students willingly wake up at inhumane predawn hours to clap and cheer under the guidance of their teachers. The race is well-marked, the organizers are helpful and experienced (they also put together two trail races, Khao Pratabchang and Tanaosri Trail), and the competition is friendly, not fierce. To top it off, the race is in Ratchaburi, a quiet province rich with natural attractions and a unique mix of Mon and Thai-Chinese cultures.

Now in its 10th edition, the Columbia Trail Masters event is tried and true. And since it’s organized by a veteran in the industry, AMA Events, runners should harbour no anxieties of a having to race, say, an additional seven kilometres. The road-weary can sign up for 3k, 10k, 25k, and 50k, all of which navigate the cushiony trails of Khao Mai Kaew, a nature reserve outside Pattaya. Although it’s also taking place on January 17, the Trail Masters is an entirely different animal from Chombueng’s offerings. There are hills, dense foliage, raw red earth, and flat padded plains to traverse, a far cry from hard gray asphalt. The medals, trophies, and jerseys are quite nice, and runners under 15 can join the 3k for free. Plus, when you’re done, it’s easy to swing by the beach.

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upcountry escape

THE NORTH FACE THAILAND Since 2012, The North Face 100 has attracted Thailand’s hale and hearty. Inviting runners to “run further than [they] ever had,” the race this year returns to its nesting grounds of Pak Chong with a grab-bag of distances to choose from: 15k, 25k, 50k, 100k duo, and the mighty 100k solo race. A rare Saturday race, TNF, as it is more familiarly known, will be held on January 30. The organizers take the rigours of running seriously. All 50k and 100k participants are required to attend a briefing the night before and carry a water pack during the race. But the gravity of the effort to come should not deter runners from joining the longer distances. The 50k trail (run twice for 100k) navigates mango and cassava plantations before entering one brief steep section. After that, it’s smooth and scenic sailing through tapioca farms, corn fields, and small villages with quaint temples and houses.

ULTRA & TRAIL UNSEEN KOH CHANG Look elsewhere if you like your courses flat and uncluttered. Ultra & Trail Unseen Koh Chang (UTKC) caters to the Indiana Joneses of the running world. Comprising a 13k, a 35k, a 66k, and a jungle-only 100k with a 28-hour time limit—one of the most difficult ultra-marathons this side of TNF Philippines—UTKC is not for the faint of heart. Last year, the trails led runners up the slippery green slopes of the island’s southeastern jungles and shoreline. Held on February 27, the second edition again promises these distinct challenges, as well as the thrill of exploring truly lesser trodden paths.

CHIANG MAI UNIVERSITY MARATHON On Valentine’s Day, February 14, the Chiang Mai University Marathon beckons runners back to the cool North with a 5k, 10.5k, 23k (unfortunately advertised as a half-marathon), and marathon. The course loops between Huay Tung Tao and the road to Samoeng, passing Royal Park Rajapruek and Ang Kaew along the way. Though not the most exciting route, the race nevertheless gives you a good excuse to visit Chiang Mai while the local flowers are still in bloom and the nights are crisp and cool. 50 | JA N UA RY 2016

LOOKING AHEAD Typically held in the middle of March, the Singha Bikini Beach Run should entice you to join on its name alone. The race is an annual rite of fun running passage along the ridiculous shores of Cha-am. While the masses recover from all-night parties—a normal sight: young men and women passed out in the beds of trucks, partiers swerving down the sidewalk on those infamous 5-seat bikes, karaoke buses parked under casuarina trees blasting Thai pop music at 5am—a battalion of sweaty athletes scantily clad in Speedos flies down the beach road. Runners finish on the sand, dodging ropes tying jet-skis to trees and families—again, many have stayed up all night—eager to take in sunrise. Go south to the sultry shores of Phuket this June for the Laguna Phuket International Marathon. Another Thai classic, this race starts and ends at the Laguna complex in Bangtao, a world away from the madness of Patong and Kata. While the weather is hot and humid and the course is not easy by any definition, the race is well-organized by Go Adventure Asia and all proceeds go to charity.

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SOUL SCIENCE The Soulful Science of Thai Cuisine: Pandanus Leaves Thai culinary repertoire has always balanced between art and science. At Ruen Urai – “the House of Gold” – dishes are prepared with passion and flair based on an intimate knowledge of ingredients and their flavours, textures, and aromas. Paying homage to the herbal medicine doctor who originally resided in the century-old golden teakwood house in which Ruen Urai is located, our Thai gourmet voyage continues to explore zesty herbs and spices and their meanings and usage. Through their chemistry and harmony, alchemy is created. Pandanus or screw pine provides earthy fragrance as well as beautiful green colour for desserts. The leaves can be fashioned into containers and wraps for morsels of food such as fried chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves.

Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel opens from 12 noon to 11 p.m. 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com

Makeshift operations are the norm at the great Bazaar of Tabriz 52 | JA N UA RY 2016

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over the border

T R AV E L

The Way Back Bazaar A Visit to Tabriz, Iran’s Westernmost City, Blends Mysterious Silk Road Settings with the Slow Burning Heat of Modernity WORDS BY MARCO FERRARESE – PICTURES BY KIT YENG CHAN

his is way too much to take in at once. Above me, the corners of high walls—silent spectators of humanity’s melee for the better part of a millennium— converge at the bottom of domes. Blazing rays of sun create spider webs of light, shooting like arrows from the hundreds of small windows and cracks in the ceiling. It seems even the mighty desert sun is eager to support these ancient walls. I’m in the ancient Bazaar of Tabriz, one of the oldest markets in the Middle East and the largest covered market

in the world, and I feel drowsy from the weight of history, a heavy load that’s forcing me to sit down, breathe deeply, and ponder the surroundings. Hundreds of years of commerce reverberate in the walls behind my back, a force of nature condensed into stone. It’s as if I can touch the hands that have shuttled goods, unfolded money, and exchanged coins from palm to palm throughout time − as if I can hear the cacophony of selling and bargaining that I feel certain have been crafted under these domes for the world to follow.

The writer wanders through the tight halls

Classic paintings for sale

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over the border

Author Lucy Hawkings and French sci-fi writer Pierre Bordage sign autographs at Mountain Echoes To arrive at the bazaar, I have walked across the compact city centre, a place of inscrutable beauty, reflecting a melting pot of about a dozen different peoples. Armenians, Turks, Kurds, Iranians, Azeri— they all have left their trademark styles in the beams and facades of Tabriz’s breezy boulevards, a city that feels strangely like parts of Paris, Milan, and Victorian London woven together, but that ultimately runs at an asynchronous pace to the watches of the rest of the world. You might think you have been thrust back to the 1970s if you concentrate on the knee-high boots, denim jeans, and retro jackets worn by the young women. The handkerchiefs they tie under their chins show patches of dark, straight hair. Young men walk together with older men, discussing business and rubbing the elbows of their well-pressed suits. They carry the most serene expressions. I had always been told that Iran was a sorry, dangerous place, but what I see here is life flowing naturally, like a cold stream washing over stones in the riverbed, gleaming like diamonds. My twists and turns have also taken me past shops offering walls of pistachios, dried apricots, and all those other nuts that make the staple starter of any social meeting in Iran; boutique shops with old wooden frames and golden writing shining like ore; and paper touts peddling the day’s news in a language I cannot understand, but that sounds like the melodious riffs of a chart-topping hit. I know I’m onto something when my feet feel the ground getting older, its smooth pavement giving way to cobblestones. When I lift my gaze from this sudden plague of uneven stone, I take in the enchanting Jameh Mosque. Excuse the blasphemy, 54 | JA N UA RY 2016

but all this mixture of old, truly ancient, and new has turned my inner clock upside down. To me, this slanting house of worship looks like a concrete robot coming out of the bazaar’s outer walls, its two compact minarets like metallic arms outstretched in the sky. Moving through the mosque gates, I get a peculiar kind of inverted vertigo as I wended my way past elaborate blue mosaics made with a million pieces of lacquered stone. This is just the starter for my buffet of caravansary history.

“I’M IN THE ANCIENT BAZAAR OF TABRIZ . . . AND I FEEL DROWSY FROM THE WEIGHT OF HISTORY, A HEAVY LOAD THAT’S FORCING ME TO SIT DOWN, BREATHE DEEPLY, AND PONDER THE SURROUNDINGS. ” When I step into the bazaar itself, the lights dim and I enter a maze of commerce that has gone on uninterrupted seemingly since time immemorial. A snake of smells that blends the sweetness of dried fruits, the earthiness of nuts, and the dust of carpets emerges from a corridor to my bangkok101.com

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over the border

Grabbing a cup of tea on the sidelines

Minarets rising from the Jameh Mosque left; it coils around my neck and slides its beguiling scent into my nostrils. I’m hooked. I trawl around the bazaar’s circular tunnels in search of other aromas. I almost topple over stacks of trays packed to the gills with dried apricots that have the colour of raw flames. The stall owner pulls the moustache curling at his cheeks and smiles, pointing me forward, away from him and in an unknown direction. Further within the labyrinth of smells, colours, and tomes are men in turbans, exemplars of that classic image of Middle Eastern scholars. They congregate here each day, wrapped in long tunics, passing fingers over fresh goods and lines of arcane text. Yet they never seem to forget that I am here, as well—an intruder in a business scheme that has existed since the days of merchants, adventurers, and thieves swinging through the Bazaar of Tabriz while traversing the Silk Road.

“I HAD ALWAYS BEEN TOLD THAT IRAN WAS A SORRY, DANGEROUS PLACE, BUT WHAT I SEE HERE IS LIFE FLOWING NATURALLY, LIKE A COLD STREAM WASHING OVER STONES IN THE RIVERBED, GLEAMING LIKE DIAMONDS.” 56 | JA N UA RY 2016

Modern Tabriz, a sharp contrast to the Bazaar When the concrete channels open up into a highceilinged space filled with light, I can finally stop ducking my head to avoid collision with swinging trays. At the centre of this archway lie hundreds of pounds of handwoven carpets, apples of the eye of a group of men who lazily assess the thickness, smoothness, and value of the pile. I can’t go any farther, nor do I feel like I belong to this group of old hands. Around this time a voice calls out, offering “chai,” or tea. It’s about time for a refresher, anyway, so I slink to a corner where a slender man in dark clothes has set up an impromptu tea house. He whacks an old machine. It sputters, and down comes a stream of murky liquid, draining into shot glass-sized cups—thimbles, more like it. The man makes the rounds, serving a motley crew of market-goers who have occupied any and all free space along this apparently never-vacant wall, as well as all the tiny tables and chairs this “teahouse” can offer. Soon enough he brings me a cup, even before I can ask. I pay less than I would have for a bout of fresh air. The first sip is like sweet venom burning my throat. I down the glass in an instant, and the tea vendor returns, respectfully pushing a small saucer with another cup into my waiting, open hands. Once it’s drained, I take a moment to reflect, going back to where this chapter begins, breathless. I lift the warm glass to my eye, using it as a prism to view this buzzing world in sepia tones. This seems to me the right way, the only way, to observe it— old and weathered, the colours faded but not forgotten, the bazaar, its unfettered activity, warmly conveying its ethereal charm. bangkok101.com

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29 Soi Ruamrudee 1, Ploenchit Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 tel: +66 (0) 2 6514400 email: resv@chateaubkk.com

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BUKRUK Bukruk is back. The urban art festival that took Bangkok by storm in 2013 returns, but on the other side of the city this time, along the Chao Phraya. Meaning “invasion,” Bukruk promises just that. From January 23-31, Bang Rak will brim with activity as artists representing over a dozen nations perform live installations on public walls and a handful of others will display work at Bridge, Serindia, P. Tendercool, Soy Sauce Factory, Speedy Grandma, and The Jam Factory. But the festival transcends visual art, bringing music, food, and discourse into its takeover of the riverside, as well. There will be concerts in the Dockland, mapping projections, an animation night, artist talks, and workshops. And, adding intrigue to the agenda, the Thailand Creative & Design Centre (TCDC) will test out its new digs at the Grand Postal Building, with artist-led talks followed by a closing party on January 31. This latest edition of Bukruk will have a stronger visual identity—one based on the bizarre, uncanny, and surreal—as well as more countries involved and a wider range of activities and events on the schedule. The idea is to build a sort of living museum, connecting not only the painted walls, but also the historical buildings and art spaces scattered around the area. And it’s all been done through collaboration. The local communities, the Talad Noi Association, and the River Creative District project have worked together to draw attention to the neighbourhood’s creative potential. The easiest way to get involved in the festival is to simply stroll through Bang Rak, making stops along Charoen Krung Road and across the river at Klong San. All are welcome to join the talks, dinners, concerts, and workshops, although it’s best to reserve a spot. For more information, the full schedule of events, and the names of the participating bands and artists, visit bukruk.com.

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exhibitions

ABSURD AESTHETIC

NUMTHONG GALLERY AREE 72/3 Aree Soi 5, Soi 7 Phahonyothin Rd | 0 2617 2794, 08 1918 5067 | Mon-Sat 11am-6pm | gallerynumthong.com BTS Aree

Until January 15 Young designer-artist Anon Pairot explores absurdity in the everyday and also reflects on personal memories, with further layering of consumer worship and religious adherence. Founder of his own design studio in 2007 and named Designer of the Year (2010) by Elle Décor, Anon infuses his work with Buddhist thoughts on truth and illusion.

THE DIFFERS

UBAAN ART STATION 204 Soi Chinda Tawin, Si Phraya Rd | 08 8088 5140 | SunMon, Wed-Thu 12pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 10am-11pm | facebook. com/ubaanartstation | MRT Sam Yan

Until January 23 Six artists, evoking six distinct emotions through their six separate artistic styles, ranging from colourful, clustered street graffiti to black-and-white illustrations to geometric figures, will transform the first and second floors of this shophouse café-gallery. The artists—Cher, P7, Mike Them, Kult, Charcoal, and NEV3R—represent the way humans are intrinsically connected despite our contrasting emotions.

MATTERS PRINTED – MACAU PRINTMAKERS

ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART 99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd | 0 2422 2092 | TueSat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-5.30pm | ardelgallery.com

Until Jan 31 This exhibition by 25 printmakers from Macau features creations that vary from woodcut to intaglio, from silkscreen to mixed technique prints. The exhibition also serves as a showcase for the potential of young Macau artists while highlighting the ways their art has developed in step with modernity.

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exhibitions

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BEEJOIR’S #NRCSSM

BANGKOK CITYCITY GALLERY 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1 I 0 83087 2725 I Wed-Sun 2-8pm bangkokcitycity.com I MRT Lumpini

Until February 7 A multi-disciplinary show explores “vanity” in the digital age. With references spanning Greek mythology, super brands, and iconic individuals, Beejoir questions the culture of narcissism and its sycophantic relationship with social media in modern times. Beejoir, originally from United Kingdom, has travelled the world and finally settled in Bangkok. This will be his first major solo exhibition in Asia.

THE MAKING OF GOLDEN TEARDROP

JIM THOMPSON ART CENTRE 6 Kasemsan Soi 2, Rama I Rd | 0 2216 7368 | 9am-6pm jimthompsonhouse.com | BTS National Stadium

Until March 22 Having first been displayed as half of the twoperson national pavilion at Venice Biennale (2013), and subsequently installed at Siam Center last year, this exhibition from Arin Rungjang offers a new interpretation of his dessert-inspired sculpture and video installation. Centred on a mesmerizing suspended sculpture of 5000 brass teardrops, as well as an accompanying documentary, Arin reconsiders historical traces through culinary culture and the way the past is subjectively deliberated.

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interview

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Endless Inspiration

ince the turn of the century, few Thai artists have received the same global acclaim as Thaweesak “Lolay” Srithongdee. The Silpakorn graduate’s work has appeared in places far and wide, from Japan to the Netherlands. This January, Lolay will take part in the second Bukruk, the urban arts festival revitalising the riverside and Chinatown with live installations, workshops, food, and music. Before he turns his attention to this artistic invasion, Lolay chats with Bangkok 101 about what keeps him ticking.

Where did the name “Lolay” come from? I got this name when I was a freshman at the Faculty of Painting, Sculpture, and Graphic Arts at Silpakorn University. All students were given nicknames when they enrolled, because the faculty wanted everyone to be equal. Whether you were rich, poor, or elderly—whatever your background—you became a new person with a new name once you stepped foot on school grounds. Some seniors asked me what I wanted mine to be, but they didn’t seem to like anything I came up with, so I just listed name after name. Finally, one of them shouted, “You are so bloody lolay (indecisive)!” And that was that. Where do you go to find inspiration? Cafés, bars, malls, football pitches? I like to observe people, animals, trees, machines, clouds, mountains—all kinds of natural things—and examine their shapes and textures. For example, in my hometown, there are lots of cows. I’ll spend hours watching them grazing in the fields. But I’ll do the same in urban environments, too. And when I travel, especially abroad, I find that I tend to see the same things, just from altered perspectives.

How did you get involved in Bukruk? What are you going to present during the festival? I was amazed by Bukruk in 2013, and so I really wanted to be a part of it this time. Luckily Mimi, the curator, contacted me. I’m still deciding what I will put on display. It will definitely include live painting. Looking back on the last 15 years, do you have a favourite exhibition of yours, or a moment that stands out in your mind, when you thought, “I can’t believe I’m here, doing this”? I would say the Happyband Project. It’s not only about music—it represents the unpredictability of life. I had no idea how the band would grow when we first started; no one could say if we would be successful. But it became a major part of my life, even when we took breaks as some of the members started families. I still can’t believe we’ve performed at more than 80 stages in Thailand and abroad. Is there anything you’ve always wanted to try, but haven’t yet? Actually, I’d like to be a motorcycle road racer. How can other young Thai artists rise to greater prominence on the global stage? You have to work extremely hard, focus on your goals, and determine the best way to achieve those goals. At the same time, you can’t forget to take care of yourself.

When did you begin to experiment with video and sculptures? I’ve been interested in video production for a long time, especially sequence shots produced without any editing. My film “Hero” was screened at the International Film Festival in Rotterdam in 2008, and now I’m working on a music video and documentary about my band, Happyband. I’ve been making sculptures since 2007. I have a lot of projects planned. I’m just trying to secure funding to start them. What is your favourite medium to work with at the moment? I enjoy using traditional art equipment, like brushes and pens, and also paint on paper, canvas, fruit, and bread. I’ve been using musical instruments, such as the bass and guitar, for recent installations, too. bangkok101.com

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cheat notes

A MEMOIR OF THE MOTHERLAND By Jim Algie

n her last book, Almost Home: The Asian Search of a Geographic Trollop, Janet Brown wrote in the introduction of her own long road to becoming an expat travel writer by relating stories of her girlhood, growing up in Alaska as the daughter of station-wagon pioneers from New York who ventured north until they ran out of land. In her new book, Light and Silence: Growing Up in My Mother’s Alaska, the former Thailand expat—whose love letter to the country, Tone Deaf in Bangkok, is also well worth reading—has embroidered some of those yarns and stitched them together into a beautiful quilt of a memoir. The memoir may seem like the most personal form of writing, but when it’s done right, as it is in this book, it touches on enough universal concerns that the reader will feel like it’s been written for and about them. What could be more universal than family? In examining the branches of her family tree, especially her mother’s life, Janet Brown has given us a short and bittersweet read that will resonate with many people. She has also made it into an archetypal American story of pioneers exploring new frontiers. During the 1950s, you could not have chosen a more remote frontier of the US than Alaska. Cut off from the rest of the world except for radio and the post office, inhabited by only a few hardy souls, Alaska becomes not only the backdrop for this, story but also a character in itself. Having grown up reading Jack London’s wilderness adventures of the frozen north—his famous short story, “To Build a Fire,” is referenced in one part—I had to marvel at the vivid descriptions of Alaska, such as this one of their new home in an even more remote location. “There was no road to this place, only a hunting trail that snaked through trees and swamps. In the winter, after freeze-up, vehicles could drive through the muskeg but when the 6 4 | JA N UA RY 2016

ground thawed during break-up, it turned to a bog of mush that horses could sink in right up to their bellies.” The state’s wildlife and the family’s dogs, Siamese cats, and horses also play key parts. The latter appear in a funny anecdote in which the author describes how badly they want to come into the house—to the point where they stick their heads through the back door, and another time, eat a pumpkin pie from the kitchen counter. For readers familiar with Janet’s last books, the voice is as down to earth, but this memoir is much more ambitious in its scope than those travelogues and more literary in its execution. The way the narrative moves back and forth over time, with rarely a seam showing, is particularly impressive. It also makes for a more varied narrative that is not dependent on chronology. Yet certain incidents, like the fire that burned down the family home, cried out for more dramatic treatment. In memoirs, the fallout from such scenes can echo through different parts of the narrative, providing cohesion and a greater sense of how those events can ripple through a family history, causing fractured loyalties or new unities to emerge. The lack of dialogue also makes it difficult at times to get a real sense of how these family members act and who they are. But addressing those concerns would have made for a much longer book. As it is, this is a very stripped-down narrative, only 137 pages, which includes lots of historic photographs from the author’s archive. I was surprised by how fast and how compelling the narrative is. Without sentimentality but a good deal of empathy, Light and Silence is the sort of rare book that hits you on primitive and personal levels—right in the marrow of your family’s genetic code. bangkok101.com

s p i t r e g n i f r u o y t a Always

1 0 1 K O K G o N g e A h t n B o e r ’ u o y n e h w h c u o t n i y Sta BANGKOK101MAGAZINE BANGKOK101 BANGKOK101MAGAZINE

art & culture photofeature

Kick Starters Imagine you’re standing on the ledge of a 40-story building. Hot air presses against your shoulders. The wind races through your hair, down your spine. Maybe you wonder how you’ve managed to fend off vertigo. You’re equal parts terrified and exhilarated. And then you look down. That’s where Jason Paul, parkour pro and Red Bull athlete, hangs by his fingertips. He doesn’t look worried—in fact, he’s smiling. So why should you be worried? You extend your camera. The shutter releases. “You know it’s going to be a good shot when the majority of photographers wouldn’t dare shoot where you are. Not to mention it’s probably somewhere your viewer wouldn’t dream of being, either,” says Emily Ibarra. For seven years, this self-described California girl has been on a whirlwind tour, following professional parkour—or freerunning—athletes across the globe with her camera. Precarious positions are nothing new. She’s shot freerunners tiptoeing on the rafters of empty stadiums, doing hand-stands on overpass ledges, and performing backflips in front of the Singapore marina. Rooftops, rusting airplanes, and abandoned swimming pools might as well be her office. Over the past two years, Ibarra has found herself in Bangkok with increasing regularity. After meeting the gravity-defying Team Farang—Pasha Petkuns, her boyfriend Jason Paul, and Anan Anwar, a Thai celebrity turned extreme athlete (a fourth member, Shaun White, got into a motorbike accident and returned to Australia to recover with his family)—while the guys were filming a video in Los Angeles, Ibarra has “tagged along, or vice versa, and we’ve never quite left each other.” She adds,

“We’re maybe too close. I know their snoring schedules and messy habits.” Team Farang is constantly searching for higher heights, wider gaps, angles that no one else has ever envisioned. And so, then, is she. Working predominantly in digital—“I love playing with older point and shoot 35mm and disposable cameras, [but] I have a bad habit of over shooting.”—Ibarra has produced countless series of slick action shots featuring Anwar, White, Paul, and Petkuns in iconic spots, from outside the Erawan Museum in Bang Na to the City Pillar Shrine in Rattanakosin. Yet despite the dangerous nature of performing and shooting these stunts, Ibarra and the guys manage to keep an eye on well-being. “When we’re shooting on rooftops and ledges it can be dangerous, but they know their limits,” she explains. “I’m only shooting professionals. I communicate with them beforehand, [and] we tend to work fast and with precise directions.” Ibarra currently spends three or four months of the year in Bangkok, and already she sees endless potential, better shots awaiting in the deep recesses and narrow channels of this sprawling city. “We come home after a long day of shooting, feeling overwhelmed [thinking,] ‘Did that all just happen?’” she says. “There is so much texture and structure that you never know what’s around the corner.” To contact Emily Ibarra and see more of her work, visit ediphotoeye.com. For more information about Team Farang, visit facebook.com/teamfarang.

BREAKFAST WRAP AT CHOMP! THE COMFORT CAFÉ, SEE P80

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AROY NEW PLACE FOR PIZZA

Everyone’s favourite pizza spectacle has found a new—and more permanent?—home, complete with a roof and interiors. The just launched Pizza Massilia on Soi Ruam Rudee promises the same great wood-fired pizza and Italian beverages as the flagship location, but closer to the centre of town. Keep up to date with the goings-on at facebook.com/pizzamassiliaruam.

THAI TWISTS AT BASIL

Traditional Thai dishes get a modern makeover at the hands of Chef Kesinee at Basil, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. Stop by for lunch or dinner to enjoy a traditional southern Thai stir-fried dish elevated with the use of succulent Australian wagyu and the chef’s authentic turmeric-infused curry paste, kua gling neau. She also shows her knack for using unusual ingredients with choo chee goong yad sai dok kare, deep-fried hummingbird flower stuffed with dry prawn curry, and yum mangkut hoy shell, mangosteen salad with spicy seared moon scallops. For reservations, call 0 2649 8366.

IL MONDO DEL PROSECCO

The stylish Zest Bar & Terrace at Westin Grande Sukhumvit welcomes Café Buongiorno from Prosecco country to shake, muddle, and stir some unique cocktails on January 22 from 6.30pm until 9pm. Priced at B750 per person, this bubbly tasting includes Prosecco cocktails, canapés, and finger foods. For reservations, call 0 2207 8000 or email fb.bangkok@westin.com.

HAVE FORK, WILL TRAVEL

Until the end of January, China Table and Attico at Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok are offering a rare culinary trip through the history of Chinese and Italian cuisines. Dubbed “The Travels of Marco Polo,” the feasts feature a couple of unique menus. At China Table, enjoy pan-fried snow fish and a spectacular trio of Peking duck. Two dozen stories higher, Attico offers treats like artichoke ravioli with lamb ragout, drunken Wagyu, and zabaione and affogato for dessert. The prices are at B1900++ per person and B2600++ per person with wine: Arrigoni “Carmen” Chardonnay at China Table and Arrigoni “Ser Gevasio” Toscana Igt Merlot at Attico. For information, please call 0 2302 3499.

AL FRESCO UPDATE

Blue Sky Bar and Dining at Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok has just renovated its facilities to feature a brand new extension overlooking the northern Bangkok skyline. New menus accompany the update, too, with bistro classics like pan-fried foie gras lasagna with mushroom sauce and black truffle emulsion, Hamachi Japanese fish and qyater tartar, Baeri Royal caviar quenelle on shell, and scallops with shredded endive. For reservation call 0 2541 1234 ext. 4151.

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FOOD & DRIN K

meal deals A RED HOT BUFFET SOFITEL SO BANGKOK 2 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com Indulge in a bountiful buffet for only B900++ at Red Oven every Friday and Saturday from 9.30pm11pm. The buffet features live cooking stations, boasting myriad flavours from a sizzling robotayaki bar, cheese and charcuterie selections, a sashimi bar, towers of fresh surf and turf, homemade pasta and Thai dishes, and even an organic vegetable stall complete with fresh fruit juices and smoothies.

SERIOUSLY GOOD SEAFOOD JONES THE GROCER GF, EmQuartier, The Waterfall Quartier | 0 2261 0382 | facebook.com/jonesthegrocerthailand Take time for tea at Jones the Grocer. From 2pm-5pm, enjoy a choice of tea or coffee with cake for only B180. And every Friday to Sunday, enjoy a special seafood platter, including Canadian lobster, four extra-large tiger prawns, five oysters, Brown crab, and 400g of whelks from France, for B3200. Add an extra oyster for B89 each. All promotions run until the end of January.

SHINNENKAI CELEBRATION THE OKURA PRESTIGE BANGKOK Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com Yamazato has a long-standing reputation for bringing traditional Japanese celebrations to Bangkok. From January 8-24, Yamazato presents a set dinner menu to celebrate Shinnenkai, the New Year. The menu, with welcome drink, is priced at B2000++ per person and features deep-fried chicken, steamed squid dumplings with ginger starchy sauce and leek, three kinds of sashimi, and tempura shrimp with sillago and vegetables, plus miso soup and delicious desserts.

ALL YOU CAN EAT ANTIPASTI THE SUKHOTHAI BANGKOK 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 8888 | sukhothai.com Enjoy antipasti? Then check out what La Scala has to offer. Its antipasti buffet includes a range of high-quality imported items, from cold cuts to cheese platters, from four types of pasta to an equal number of mains and desserts presented by Chef Michele Totaro. For an additional B750++, B900++, or B1100++, the buffet sets can come with three-, four-, and five-course set menus, as well.

SUNDAY SUN AND A BIG BRUNCH SWISSOTEL NAI LERT PARK 2 Wireless Road | 0 2253 0123 | swissotel.com/hotels/bangkok-nai-lert-park Tuck into one of the most lavish brunch buffets in town while being serenaded by smooth live jazz at ISO. The menu highlights include Maine lobster, French foie gras, Atlantic scallops, and other premium seafood sections, such as Alaskan king crab, French oysters, mussels, and blue crab. Prices start from B1699++; the buffet is free for kids under 5 and 50 per cent off for kids aged 5-12.

WATER INTO WINE THE WATER LIBRARY CHAMCHURI 2F, Chamchuri Square | 061 852 5411 | waterlibrary.com/chamchuri Until January 15, the uniquely round restaurant at Chamchuri Square, known for its centrepiece of bottled aqua rising to the sky, is offering a four-course meal by Chef Mirco Keller with outstanding wine pairings for what others might charge for the wine alone (B1650). A few of the four-course menu selections include yellowfin tuna, roasted duck, sauerkraut, and cucumber; Canadian scallops, white asparagus, carrots, and hollandaise sauce; beef cheek, spinach, boudin noir, and Szechuan pepper sauce; and white chocolate, sesame, kumquat, and crispy rice. 76 | JA N UA RY 2016

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THE SWEET TRUTH A “wellness” issue that dwells heavily on fine food would be remiss without a “warning label” about the inevitable side effects of Thailand’s surfeit of tempting flavours and of its offhandedly gluttonous way of life. Diabetes, mainly in its less lethal Type 2 Form, has become one of the leading indicators of “modernization” throughout Southeast Asia. Rates among adults, and more shockingly young people, quadrupled from the 1980s to 2005—that was just the beginning of a more sustained rise in the charts. Fortunately, Thailand does not rank quite as badly as places like neighbouring Malaysia, where nearly twenty per cent of the populace are afflicted, around four times more than even in the U.S., land of the hot fudge sundae. And Thailand’s relatively inexpensive and enlightened health care system receives pretty good marks when it comes to monitoring and education. What causes diabetes? Part of the rise worldwide is due to the fact that people are generally living much longer, meaning there is a much greater chance that the insulin-producing pancreas will poop out. In Asia, the widespread introduction of fast food and Western treats are certainly a main spur for the increase. Think of the lines for Krispy Kreme, the Thai yen for Swensen’s and just about anything found in convenience stores. The first indicator I had that my Thai father-in-law was taking my new-born daughter on unauthorized outings was when she began looking out the window with longing and muttering the word, “Seven.” She was not learning to count. She was thinking about a treat from 7-Eleven.

But, as with politics, no foreign force or intervention can do so much harm to a people or a society as they can do to themselves. And the percentage of calories that come from sugar in a country are about as good an indicator of economic status as any other. Sticky rice with coconut milk, sugar sprinkled on alreadysweet pad thai noodles, the over-use of sweet syrups and condensed milk in all beverages—often added automatically, even when the customer specifies “no sugar”—are hardly the result of corporate imperialism. And it’s starch, more than sugar, that’s often the culprit. Jok, the soothing rice porridge that is the most common Thai breakfast, breaks down into glucose immediately. Despite common perception, it isn’t a collective sweet tooth that’s the main problem. It’s obesity. The greater the number of overweight citizens, the higher the rate of diabetes. That makes exercise the first line of defence, far more effective and loads cheaper than Glucophage pills. And, take it from this food lover’s personal experience, diabetes that goes out of control can quickly lead to not just annoying thirst at night but also a frightening blurring of vision. Left unchecked, high sugar levels work to damage the kidneys and liver and increase the risk of stroke. Whether crab fried rice, croissants, or craft beers, every food item should carry the label, “Consume in moderation. Eat responsibly.” And remember to honour Asia’s traditional balance of sweet with sour. JOHN KRICH

BANGKOK 101 Food Editor John Krich has just returned from Kuala Lumpur for his second stint in Bangkok. Previously the chief food columnist and feature writer on travel, arts, and sports for the Asian Wall St. Journal, John is a native New Yorker who has authored nine books, including the classic on Asian travel Music in Every Room: Around the World in a Bad Mood, Won Ton Lust: Adventures in Search of the World’s Best Chinese Restaurant, the PEN/Hemingway Award-winning novel, A Totally Free Man, and the recent A Fork in Asia’s Road, a collection of his best food pieces. He has been a frequent contributor to major publications like TIME/Asia, Condé Nast Traveler, National Geographic Traveler, The New York Times, and San Francisco Examiner. bangkok101.com

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feature

HOW GREEN IS YOUR GUT? BY JOHN KRICH

ne of Thailand’s many distinctions is that it is probably the most un-vegetarian vegetarian countries on Earth. When I first moved here a decade back, I was quite impressed to hear nearly everyone to whom I was introduced—including my exwife—declare themselves good flesh-eschewing, karmaaccruing souls. That was before I caught on that the peculiar local definition of respecting all life did not include the tastier forms, so long as they were relatively diminutive and not too vivid to imagine. I assumed this was a typically Thai accommodation to the temptations of the modern world, another way to keep things loose and playful. (Apparently, the Thai farms for canned crocodile meat are quite kosher, too.) However, Theravada Buddhism apparently puts forth the gospel that the Buddha himself, while championing compassion, made a specific point of exempting pork, chicken, and fish. Maybe his doctor had warned him to cut down on cholesterol.

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While many Thais still stick to the small-is-beautiful diet, the number of steakhouses, burger joints, and lamb racks gracing Bangkok has certainly risen precipitously in recent years. At the same time, there has been far less of a comparable increase in Western-style vegan, raw, or other proudly meatless forms of marketing. And, perhaps because of the above ideology, the plethora of “spiritually pure” dining halls attached to temples in China or Japan—places where I first cut my teeth on mock duck, mock shrimp, and a whole mock storehouse done up so convincingly as to escape all mockery—simply aren’t in business here. This means that the nightly restaurant quest is a bit challenging for the green crowd, in a land where rice, tofu, and vegetables ought to be as accessible as apple pie. My own first foray into the realm of high-consciousness high fibre did not go so well. The first stop was Asoke’s May Veggie Home, an institution since hippie days with a menu, décor, and clientele that also seemed lost in a bangkok101.com

feature time warp. Looking through the windows at a smattering of forlorn and greying ex-backpackers pick through their gloppy orders, I wasn’t tempted to stay for the “killer” som tam or the veg-only chicken pepper steak. No doubt it deserves a second try. Further up Sukhumvit, I was cheered to see scrupulous Japanese housewives picking through a full-service grocery stocked with organic produce (easy to identify as less expansive and regular as its chemically-juiced counterparts) from Sustaina Grocery’s own up-country farm. The upstairs restaurant looked as well-scrubbed as the salad greens, but somehow, seeing the unimaginative combinations of set rice-veg platters on every table stimulated in me a desire to head out the door for something earthier. Surely, amidst all the grand traditions of Asian cuisine, there had to be more choice than this. I thought I’d found it when I stumbled up Soi 33 to Demi. Surely here I would be transported back to the best of mock reality; in fact, the Sichuan eggplant was served like oatmeal in a bowl and was nearly as bland and twice as soupy. At least, the strips of smoked bean curd in black bean satisfied my Chinese craving. What of Govinda—did they really have a pizza menu? Or Korean and even Sri Lanka outposts of health? Alas, to save time, I decided to head for Pan Road, that remarkably multi-cultural single block that serves to connect, as well reflect the influence of, the city’s oldest and most venerated Indian temple (more familiarly “Wat Kaek”) at one end and even more arcane Myanmar Embassy at the other. Along this strip, there are a number of predictably “pure veg, pure ghee” South Indian thali meals (at Chennai Kitchen, for instance) accompanied by proper pancakes. So, too, the closer one gets to the Temple, the less carnivorous the various humble shop fronts get. Foremost among these, and close-by Sri M’s gates, the A-Ma Veg Kitchen offers a Thai-Chinese hot table buffet with a fine green curry—chocked with mushrooms and radishes, I didn’t miss the typical gristly pork bits one bit—red rice, even fake fish cakes, served up by one of the friendliest old gents I’ve encountered in the entire city. Could it be his lifestyle had really bred such a lack of aggression, or was it perhaps the other way round? Mashoor’s on Pan Road is also the best place in town to graze for the peculiar and decidedly meatless specialty of Burma, its fermented tea leaf salad, as strangely satisfying a melange of natural tartness as I’ve ever found. But the enclave’s leading shrine to a fleshless lifestyle is found farthest away from the Wat Kek, and comes to us not from Tamils or Vietnamese or even the wayward Iranians found in these parts, but a wandering—no, jogging—Japanese. Bonita Café and Social Club, named not just for prettiness but in memory of the proprietor’s LA running club, is like stepping into the enlarged living room of Atsuyuki “K” Katsuyama and his Thai wife Neung. The assorted bric-a-brac and bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRIN K

memorabilia, even a video playing on a loop, all reflect the couple’s recent personal and athletic milestone: a run across the entire US, completed in 79 days. The home cooking here is done in no hurry, either, making a lunch more a marathon than a sprint. But why complain when every table starts out with a bowl of free, and fresh, popcorn? While the couple looks wiry thin from their endless miles on the road, they will happily fatten anyone up with an excellent tofu burger, topped with cashew cream, and a gritty yet satisfying vegetable curry, done Osaka-style after K’s hometown. The protein shakes, laced with chia seeds, are outstanding as well. The whole pleasant place seems a kind of celebration one can taste, not just of the proprietor’s freedom from meat but the yoke of 20 years as a salesmen for Panasonic. From one of the city’s most established champions of healthy eating I went to the newest—the barely opened yet already fashionable Broccoli Revolution (see this issue’s review). Still not quite filled by their informal breakfast menu’s “Berry Smoothie in a Bowl,” and not sure I’d yet done enough good to my innards, I proceeded with some trepidation to Anotai—along with the Old City’s Thamna, the restaurant most frequently recommended by aspiring herbivores. Unfortunately, the former is located along a hidden block of shop houses just beside the Praram 9 Hospital. Somehow, this made for a rather medicinal atmosphere and little in the way of greenery to look at while chomping on one’s greens (the back ends of air-conditioning units were about all to be had). Still, Anotai is woodsy, cosy, and homey, clearly a devotee’s lair, cloaked in that peculiar hush meant for politicallycorrect chowing down—the meditative seriousness broken only by pre-recorded Bach and hesitant pluckings of the Japanese koto. Anotai’s menu seems a lot like a doctor’s chart, too— carefully annotated with symbols to indicate Vegan, Garlic, Peanuts, Eggs, and so on. Oddly enough, the two main sections of duelling starches feature Thai fried rice variants and Italian pastas. The carbonara with mushrooms was quite fine, and the stir-fried long beans in chillies made for an orgy of the vegetal in itself. I didn’t quite get the twice-battered blandness of tempeh tempura—though I vowed to come back for the home-grown chayote shoots, coconut shoots, and other rare greens (so as not to shoot the elephants). And the bakery was a beautiful reminder that carrot cakes, brownies, and scones are just as acceptable for true believers as the less digestible stuff. For now, I had to conclude that the quickest route to true gourmet vegetarianism was most likely heading for some of Bangkok’s more inventive, four-star Thai and Western establishments—and then just ordering wisely (watching out, of course, for the lingering animal presence often left in sauces and broths). Still, with green juices and detox centres like Rasayana Retreat catering to new and more health-conscious generations, it seems that a true eating revolution is just on the verge of breaking out. JA N UA RY 2016 | 79

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review

CHOMP! THE COMFORT CAFÉ - Banglamphu’s Avant Garden Vegans and vegetarians have never had an easy go of it here. Apart from a period during Buddhist Lent punctuated by meatlessness, the hungry hoi polloi crave for flesh. Whatever dishes don’t include minced pork come with copious splashes of fish sauce. Even the som tam so prevalent nationwide includes pinkish flecks of dried shrimp—often despite one’s explicit requests they be left out of it. Yet within this ravenous landscape, vegetarian Gili Back opened CHOMP, her café-gallerycommunity space and passion project, where meat takes a backseat to veggie pies and vegan pasta. And with food this homey, meat sure isn’t missed. There’s a stark difference between what most people assume vegetarians eat and what vegetarians actually eat. The menu at CHOMP represents the latter. Think: big plates of vegan bangers piled on creamy mashed potatoes with gravy (B270), chilli- and lemon-laced linguine with vegan bacon (B230), and pescatarian-friendly salmon wraps incorporating goat cheese from Vivin (B190), each served in portions large enough to share or pig out on, depending on one’s appetite. Big breakfasts are available, from Middle Eastern shakshuka (B150) to Scandinavian smoked salmon with cream cheese (B190), and “CHOMPwiches” come with fresh-baked bread or wraps. There’s even a menu for infants. What’s more, most dishes can be ordered with alternatives to meat or fish. 80 | JA N UA RY 2016

All this backs up the claim that eating well doesn’t mean self-denial, or even iceberg lettuce, but rather taking in good things in moderation. The coffee is Thai-grown. The cocktails are stiff and delicious (try the Berry Mojito or Tom Yum, for instance). Plus, there’s craft beer. Gili isn’t shoving square beets into sausage-shaped holes, either—she’s simply building the hangout she’s always wanted to own. Each month, up-and-coming local artists display work on the second floor of the renovated teakwood building. Here alsos a qualified instructor leads a mixed discipline yoga called KALA, writers gather for book launches, and, each Saturday, local kids flock to the “Heads & Tales” storytelling and crafts activities, led by a reading teacher named Anna. “We’re trying to get kids off screens and back into books and arts,” says the sociable South African as one such kid, a boy in yellow pyjamas, presses his nose against the first-floor window and waves to her. It seems CHOMP offers more than home-cooked meals for hearty appetites—it serves food for the soul. And this is something everyone can enjoy, not only vegetarians.

CHOMP! THE COMFORT CAFÉ 63-65 Samsen Rd, on the corner of Samsen Soi 1 | 0 2629 2026 facebook.com/chompcafe | daily 9am-11pm

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review

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BROCCOLI REVOLUTION - ¡Viva la Vegan! Could it be that the latest upheaval in Thailand will begin with a French fry? Among the endlessly grey blocks of upper Sukhumvit, the brand-new Broccoli Revolution, with its open windows, hanging ferns, chalkboard displays, and exposed brick loft, comes as something of a revelation (if not quite the revolution of its wonderfully catchy name). Where similarly upscale shopping areas of New York or London might be chock-ablock with such trendy juice bars, it stands out in Bangkok as among the first and, even with an admittedly limited menu in its “soft” opening phase, among the best. Here, the slogan is “vegetables will change your life”— something one would hardly need to preach to an Asian populace, yet which perhaps needs just this restaurant’s sort of palatable persuasion. At the heart of the operation are some 18 cold-pressed juices, all of them mixing something green and leafy with something fruity—celery with green apple, cucumber with melon, and, yes, broccoli in an astounding amount of liquefied forms, matching surprisingly well with coconut and pineapple (B100-180). There’s raw broccoli as well in their signature Western salad (B250), a small bowl filled with apples and walnuts. But this “revolution” aims to be indigenous and not just some outpost of Western ideology. With a branch already in Vietnam, and a Vietnamese chef at the helm, the place’s best offerings are actually goi coun rice rolls, a bangkok101.com

pho noodle bowl, and Vietnamese-style tofu toast. There’s a number of Thai staples on offer as well, all served with organic brown rice; a smattering of middle Eastern mezze (dips that lend themselves well to meatless days, B290); couscous, of course (B180); Japanese-style edamame and Mexican guacamole (B200); and Spanish gazpacho (B170). And all that eclecticism is before they’ve had time to roll out the full bill of fare. But the best-seller so far, and quickly becoming the trademark, is its mock-carnivore Broccoli Quinoa Charcoal Burger (B220—yes, there’s some of the beneficial stalk even in this patty, though you can’t taste it and the buns are nicely black to offset lettuce and tomato. But what’s probably driving the orders and bringing even the purest of diners back are the accompanying fries. They’re thick, hand-cut, and unfrozen, and they actually taste like potatoes. In Bangkok, that’s rarer than the Carrot and Pumpkin Soup and the best intentions behind it. Welcome, comrades, to a scrumptious new age where you can have your cake (broccoli optional) and still eat your fries, too.

BROCCOLI REVOLUTION 899 Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2662 5001 daily 7am-10pm

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review

LE DALAT - The Madame’s New Palace When EMQuartier launched last March, some top ethnic eateries instantly grouped in the spiralling 6th-9th floors of its Helix Building. Upmarket Mexican, penthouse Japanese, and chic Italian cafés all settled into neighbouring lots in the well-groomed upper floors. So it’s fitting that the beloved Vietnamese restaurant Le Dalat also joined the community, shifting from high nobility to high society with its second branch snug between seafood and dim sum joints on the 7th floor. The late Madame Hoa Ly’s recipes, which have earned Le Dalat a faithful following since its founding in the early 80s, have been slightly adjusted for the environment—and, here, they’re enjoyed in the shadows of industrial lighting, with the cacophony of Instagram eaters within earshot. Don’t let this spoil your appetite. While the mall setting is less graceful than the sister outlet’s gardens on Sukhumvit 23, the food remains as refined as ever. The menu is filled with fresh and healthy, though foreign, choices. Thankfully, the wait staff will guide you. And why not let them take the lead? They know their chả giò from their gỏi cuốn. And, crucially, they know when to back off. Love the hoisin-rich tương xào, but not so much the tangy đồ chua with mounds of shredded carrot and daikon? Go ahead and dip your salmon and cucumber summer rolls (B210) in the dark tương xào, they suggest, even if it was meant to accompany Le Dalat’s fried goodies, like the 82 | JA N UA RY 2016

luscious, crab-stuffed Imperial spring rolls (B260). And tailor your nem nướng to taste—the pretty bites of pork sausage come in individual lettuce cups—with sliced bird’s eye chillies, unripe banana and mango, and chopped garlic. There’s plenty of crossover, too. Having come of age during the French colonial rule of Indochina, Madame Hoa Ly’s inspiration extends beyond Southeast Asia. Her complex beef phỏ kho (B200), for example, resembles a Gallic pot-au-feu—the beef is fall-apart tender, the broth evocative of warm family dinners. It’s a tasteful introduction to the lavish comfort cooking of the Madame’s well-heeled adulthood. So too is a visually plain, but remarkably succulent, minute steak with perfectly cooked French fries and morning glory salad (B340). Finish off with a bananastuffed crêpe with vanilla ice cream and cinnamon-caramel sauce (B290), and you may as well have moved in. Elegance underscores Vietnamese cuisine. Fortunately, none of the balanced, beautiful dishes at Le Dalat’s newest venture suggests the Madame’s artistic touch has been lost since her passing—or in her eminent venue opening inside Bangkok’s most cutting-edge supermall.

LE DALAT (EMQUARTIER) Fl 7, EMQuartier | 0 2269 1000 ledalatbkk.com | daily 10am-10pm

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LUNCH FROM 11.30AM - 2PM AFTERNOON TEA BREAK FROM 2PM - 6PM DINNER FROM 6PM - 11PM Sukhumvit Soi 20 Mille Malle@Millennium Residence Sukhumvit Tel: 02 663 4988

www.galleriamilanorestaurant.com

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7 ELEVEN 7 ELEVEN

MAXVALU

SUKHUMVIT ROAD

Sukhumvit Soi 18

Sukhumvit Soi 22

Holiday Inn

Sukhumvit Soi 22

RAMA IV ROAD

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review

RUEN URAI - Where Meals and Memories Are Shared Beyond the nightclubs, massage parlours, and hectic street life on Surawong Road hides a centuryyear-old teakwood house in shady and leafy solace. Ruen Urai, located next to the Rose Hotel, provides as beautiful a setting as any to enjoy Thai food for the soul, both authentic and current. With such an extensive menu, it’s best to start with dishes to share (this is, after all, Thai cuisine we’re talking about). Crispy cups filled with minced prawns and a garden-fresh herb salad (B300) combines sour, salty, spicy, and sweet notes, all in one bite, while leaving space for other hors d’oeuvre. This includes fried crabmeat and minced pork rolled in silken tofu sheets (B380). Pick up from there a crispy-fried Thai watercress salad that comes in ball-sized individual bites and is served with homemade dressing—a classic salad with unique twist and incredible flavour (B250). The menu starts to reveal its secrets in the mains. Among the most popular items is the stir-fried beef strip loin with tree basil leaves (B380). Take a bite, and its popularity becomes clear. The sweet scent of Thai herbs carries the tender beef, and spice lurks behind it all. And to beef up a family-style meal, order a curry, that staple of Thai cuisine. One of the most decadent—and likewise most delicious—is a red curry of Thai watercress with salted threadfin and butter-like pork belly (B320). 84 | JA N UA RY 2016

Inspired by Khun Surat Prajakjitr, the long-time nanny of the owners of Ruen URai, Khai Palow, or duck eggs braised in Chinese five-spice and dark soy sauce with pork belly, spongy tofu, tofu sheets, and shitake mushrooms (B320), is a simple Thai-Chinese dish, yet sophisticated in the sheer breadth of flavours it carries. Sautéed chicken and green eggplant with krill paste (B280), on the other hand, is more direct. It gives an unmistakeable taste of southern Thailand. This swing between classic and contemporary, simple and complex, underscores the menu, even to dessert, where sago pearls in coconut milk (a dish uncommon for outsiders to enjoy) contrasts the iconic mango and sticky rice. Within the wild spin of urban life, a place like Ruen Urai is worth its weight in gold. A sweet escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, as though carved out of the shadows of skyscrapers, with a serene ambience and vibrant Thai food from the annals of history both shared and individual, this restaurant isn’t a come-once, comenever-again kind of place. Visit Ruen Urai, and it’s only a matter of time before you return.

RUEN URAI Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd | 0 2266 8268 ruen-urai.com | 12pm-11pm

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review

CRAB AND CLAW - The Atlantic Coast has Never Felt so Close Who would have imagined it? No restaurant concept seems more counter-intuitive—more like bringing coals to Newcastle—than starting another purveyor of seafood, especially fresh crustaceans, in a country abundantly blessed with same. But Colin Stevens, a veteran of eleven years as a restaurant owner in Phuket and oddly enough Hawaii-born, gauged the market just right by recognizing that Thais would have the perfect appetite (and spending power) for “New England-style” lobster, clams, and all the trimmings. “It’s about educating people to shift from warm water fish to cold water fish,” Stevens explains, somewhat clinically. He could just as well say it’s also about the ability to fly in absurdly fresh products and the enduring appeal of almost anything dipped in melted butter. Maybe that’s because his main function is not as some daring cook but more as an expert on logistics hooking the very best catch from each day’s global supply line. Ensconced on an upper curve of the EMQuartier, and outdrawing to the point of embarrassment some top local brands to either side, Crab and Claw features a giant lobster mural on its concrete walls and a similar as their piece de resistance—at around B2000 a creature pulled from the tank, the lobster is neither cheap nor outrageously unattainable. More remarkably, he has some of Bangkok’s few exemplars of succulent cherrystone 86 | JA N UA RY 2016

clams that, raw on the half-shell and accompanied by Tabasco, taste exactly the same as the ones unloaded five minutes ago onto a Cape Cod dock. So many kinds of oysters are on ice here that Stevens wisely stays out of their way. But he does offer a few other elaborate tributes to the best of the American palate: a “clam boil” in a pail that combines littlenecks with potatoes, hunks of corn, and slivers of chorizo in the style of the native Massasoit Indians. Seemingly bottomless at B400, it’s a steal. More treats to make any devotee of the Atlantic seaboard homesick are the deep-fried oysters, dolled-up with aioli dip. The clam chowder (B240) seems a bit too precious, with not enough clams or potatoes, but still far better than the canned Campbell’s alternative. And predictably, the lobster rolls are done just right, justifying their B950 price tag with tons of meat bound by the perfect minimal touch of mayo. There’s not much to crab about here, and the only kind of clawing in evidence is trying to get a table at this surprising Bangkok sensation.

CRAB AND CLAW Fl 7, Helix Bldg, EMQuartier | 09 6197 5769 facebook.com/crabandclaw | daily 10am-10pm

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KYO ROLL EN - Zensational Sweets What beats the heat, or the slog of long day, better than Japanese sweets and a tranquil Japanese setting? Located at EMQuartier, the flagship Kyo Roll En occupies a cosy corner, spaced out for maximal Zen effect. The café is divided into an isolated water garden area, with white sofas and wooden tables overlooking turquoise water beneath a glass floor, and a rock garden area that is decorated with white marble pebbles and based on the Zen precepts of clean lines, warm natural hues, and minimalism. The menu is best viewed with a glass of peach-infused mineral water called Momo Tennensui (B95) in hand. Inside the pages appear signature soft ice creams—in flavours of charcoal vanilla (shockingly black in colour with classic vanilla taste) and matcha—and a variety of dessert sets, featuring combinations of roll cakes, assorted fruit, Japanese mochi, and kanten jelly. There are a few options exclusive to this Kyo Roll En, too, like the Custard Pudding (B95), with caramel syrup and vanilla powder as a layer. Popular choices include the Zen Roll Kaiseki (B259), a “Zen” sponge roll stuffed with matcha cream, made from premium green tea imported from Kyoto, and the two signature charcoal vanilla and matcha ice creams. The platter also comes with fresh strawberries and oranges, Shiratama mocha, Adzuki beans, and nama chocolate truffles. A feast for the eyes as well as the appetite. bangkok101.com

As expected, matcha is a key element in many of Kyo Roll En’s creations. A modern incarnation of the ageless tea comes in the form of Matcha Deluxe Parfait (B229). The sundae features layers of matcha pudding, panna cotta, Adzuki beans, matcha ice cream topped with Shiratama mochi and kanten jelly, and even a matcha granita. An extra-long spoon ensures all layers can be enjoyed in one aromatic scoop. Continuing with the modern inspiration, the Shades of Grey (B279) is more than your ordinary cake and ice cream. Charcoal sauce, splattered to add substance to the white plate, lends an artistic touch to ceramic, like paint on canvas. Chocolate ice cream is then sandwiched between charcoal cookies and placed beside a chocolate cake. The sponge cake is prepared with a surprise centre: matcha lava (of course) pours out with the touch of a spoon. A little bitterness from dark chocolate cuts the richness of the matcha. Fresh blueberries balance out the sweetness of the Belgian chocolate, decadent sponge cake, and charcoal macaroon. Zen? This dish, maybe not. But it’s certainly divine.

KYO ROLL EN BF The EmQuartier | Phrom Phong BTS | 021082660 kyorollen.com | daily 10am-10pm

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sanpellegrino recommends FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. www.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

UNO MAS “Uno Mas” means one more in Spanish, but there is absolutely nothing like this massively ambitious addition to Bangkok’s increasingly internationalized dining scene. Curving around open-air balconies on the 54th Floor of Centara Grand at CentralWorld, somewhat discreetly hidden by the shopping mall and kept blissfully uncrowded thus far, this restaurant, actually three linked venues in one, is not for those afraid of bold flavour or heights—a new vantage point not just to understand the best of Iberian cuisine but also to rival the city’s dizziest skyscraper perches. Done up in a mock post-modernist style befitting Barcelona, the hometown of tall and welcoming Chef Joan Tanya Dot, the progression of seating areas begins with the wine cellar, a casual bar featuring a unique selection of vintages not just from Spain (see the Portuguese Douro and even harder-to-find Greek retsina wines). Next comes the area for tapas, not displayed in glass counters as in Spain, but rather listed on lengthy menus printed on rough paper and mounted on leather hides to emphasize the rustic nature of the food. All the usual suspects are here, from omelettes to shrimp, amplified by the city’s best selection of Spanish cheeses (B190/50grams), 88 | JA N UA RY 2016

plus croquetas filled with porcini mushrooms and other inventive variants (B190). Of course, there’s all grade and manner of hand-sliced Ibérico hams (B190-790). Raw tuna is also put to get use in tartare salads. But save room for the house specialty and piece de resistance. The whole baby suckling pig comes golden brown, oozing fat and life, cute floppy ears and all (B1490). For the reasonable price, diners also get the show of Chef Joan personally slicing the pork into succulent quarters. This is done with the edge of a clay platter to show no knife blade is necessary for such tender meat. When it’s over, he flings the plate floorward, smashing it to pieces. It’s an act that requires many an encore, but you’ll be too stuffed to ask for uno mas in this case. Wash it down with sangria and, if you dare, go for the churros (B395)—dessert here even if these deep-fried donut strands are breakfast back in Spain (dipped in thick chocolate, of course). This is a restaurant with attitude, a brilliant idea in a city with a growing hunger for the best of the Mediterranean.

UNO MAS 54F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd, Pathumwan 0 2100 6255 | centarahotelsresorts.com | 4pm-1am

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street eats

eat like

Nym

Our roving eater Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel

SOMTAM HOUSE

ne of the most popular dishes among Thais is not pad thai, as many outsiders might think, but rather somtam, the humble papaya salad. It’s so popular that wherever there is a 7-Eleven—and there are many: more than 8000 in Thailand, with about half of those in Bangkok—there will be at least one pushcart of somtam orbiting nearby. On a recent outing, my girlfriends and I didn’t go out to find somtam next to any convenience stores, but instead we headed to a veritable kingdom of the sweet, sour, spicy, and salty salad: Baan Somtam Restaurant, or “Somtam’s House.” Upon entering, our somtam radars sensed we had come to the right place. We picked a table out of the direct blast of the air conditioner and saw in one corner the somtam station where all the ingredients were on display and ready for action. Tam som-o (somtam made with the grapefruit-like pomelo instead of papaya) captured our attention first, then tam Luang Prabang, todmun huaplee (fried curried banana blossom curry), and finally neem flower salad with shrimp in a tamarind and palm sugar sauce, called dok sadao yum koong. We tried to balance the dishes by getting different textures and layers of spiciness. Once the tam som-o arrived, we glanced at each other and then attacked it right away. The bite-size pomelo swam in a tasty black sauce. It was different

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than other somtam sauces; we inhaled the deep scent of plara (fermented fish) and kapi (small shrimp paste). The sauce-soaked pomelo was surprisingly crispy and cool, too, which made the bites explode like a gentle volcano in my mouth. Cool fire, I said. I was glad I had insisted on ordering only “one chilli.” The tam Luang Prabang was another interesting experience. The papaya came in thin slices, looking like clear flat noodles. Its sauce was similar to tam som-o with the addition of crispy kak moo (small pieces of deeply fried lard). I then moved to todmun huaplee, which was like a soothing element. It was dipped in curry before being lightly fried. We also added a little bit of sweet plum sauce before devouring it. Dok sadao yum koong came last. The young buds of the neem flower introduced an interesting texture and taste, eliciting an unexpected reaction with its hint of bitterness that somehow got along well with nam pla wan (sweet and tamarind sour sauce). Every dish we ordered satisfied us all. We agreed we had to come back—but next time with more friends so we could explore even more of the dishes.

Baan Somtam 9/1 Soi Sri Vieng, Pramuan Rd, Silom 0 2630 3486 | daily 11am-10pm

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ENOTECA INIMITABLE ITALIAN

the only real italian gourmet restaurant Historic Italian Family Italian Chef de Cuisine from a Michelin-starred restaurant Italian Sommelier Our philosophy: slow food = sweet life

Sukhumvit Soi 27, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok I T. 02 258 4386 I F. 02259 9175

www.enotecabangkok.com

EnotecaBangkok

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in the kitchen

DANIEL BUCHER talks to John Krich A kitchen is a kitchen, and once you feel at home in one, you are at home anywhere in the world. Maybe that is the chef’s main solace and source of satisfaction. Daniel Bucher seems a contented man inside the small confines of the square cave lined with silvery counters and appliances that’s the back kitchen at the bar/restaurant/café/tapas and snacks centre that is Osito Unique Spanish (née El Osito)—even though, surrounded by four or five Thai staff in dapper uniforms, there’s barely room to turn around. After eight years with Plaza Athénée, spending much of his time with executive decisions, paper work, and hygiene classes, he says he feels liberated to get back to doing what he does best—and he makes sure he does several full shifts per week, even when the boss doesn’t have to. A German native, his passion for cooking was awakened, and his ability to handle all sorts of challenges 92 | JA N UA RY 2016

was honed, on his grandfather’s farm in the southern Schwarzwald. “When I was just eight years old, I invited the neighbours over for a dinner,” he recounts with pride. While studying art and architecture in Hamburg, he always worked as a cook on the side and later, when studies were interrupted by political protests, switched full-time to culinary school (though in Germany, it’s always combined with hands-on apprenticeship labours). After work in Berlin and Sydney, he first came to Bangkok on a trial with the Plaza Athénée, and, having met the Thai woman who would become his wife and mother of his two children, returned on a permanent basis. It was a casual conversation with Billy Bautista about what to do with the empty space next to his La Monita Mexican taquería that set Bucher on a more independent, and decidedly more Latin, path. “I love Spanish cooking,” he explains, “because it’s such a big country, the tastes are bold and the range is bangkok101.com

in the kitchen

wide.” He still tries to explore the place when he can. And, he believes, “Serving tapas is very much in line with Thai eating and the Thai lifestyle, where dishes are shared and come out in no particular order.” But the challenge for him is how to replicate its tastes with local ingredients as much as possible—and his eclectic menu is matched by an encyclopaedic knowledge of farmers’ markets and local suppliers. He likes to incorporate little-known herbs and berries into his sauces when he can. “It’s still a challenge to come up with a lot of items”—the artichokes, he admits, are from abroad— “but we’ve got to support the efforts here and become sustainable.” Still, Chef Daniel’s greatest pride seems to be the homemade char-black blood sausages that Spaniards have told him are “as good as anything back home.” An even bigger twinkle comes into his eyes when pointing to the shelf above Osito’s corner bar: holding his personal collection of many of the world’s rarest and most homecrafted gins. No lagers, please, for this German who breaks all stereotypes. The young culinary star feels Bangkok is truly unique in the camaraderie between chefs of all nations. “It’s really rare the way everyone who is forging this new cuisine helps one another,” he adds, saying there’s an “us against bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRIN K

them” feeling when confronted with the many thousands of restaurants tied to old and unhealthy ways. He also says that, thanks to his art background, he believes restaurants can do a lot more to combine food with on-site installations and design, even performance. And then he shows that me how sometimes the best cooking doesn’t involve any cooking at all. On a colourcoded yellow cutting board, he deftly takes a tender piece of local beef and chops it into small slices more efficiently than any grinder could do. Then he applies personal pinches from a variety of plastic containers of touches only he may notice, but must take care to add: chopped capers, pepper, and some yuzu foam. It’s the addition of a layer of mashed avocado to top a round mould that he’s most proud of, plus a garnish of radish slice and a scattering of roasted potato wedges. This isn’t just a beef tartare. It’s a statement of a man who feels in tune with any ingredient, any kitchen, any city, everywhere.

OSITO 888/23-24 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd | 0 2651 4399 ositobkk.com | facebook.com/ositobkk Mon-Fri 10.30am-12am, Sat-Sun 10am-12am

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made in thailand

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Me Juice Not All Juices are Created Equal BY JOHN KRICH

hile Bangkok is a city bursting with all sorts of blended, pulped, squeezed, smoothed, or liquefied fruit (sometimes with veggies added, too), some don’t exactly meet the full promise of health, vitamins, immunity, detoxification, or fibre in drinkable form. Some are three-quarters commercial ice and dosed with plenty of sugary syrupy. Others are pasteurized or made from unknown stocks of frozen berries. And plenty more are just plain canned or of unknown and uncharted origins. That’s where Me Juice comes in. Was the name created perhaps as the perfect new-age update of “Me Tarzan, You Jane”? I never got the answer to this, but I did get plenty of other tidbits of advanced juice-ology from the small-time Internet-based company’s “co-founder/juice lover”— as the title on her card reads—and full-time health nut Fhy Kongniwatsiri. “I used to have a café and saw how excited my customers got from a vitamin booster I made,” the dedicated 29-year-old explains. “I began reading and researching, and then the company was started two years ago.” Back then, she explains, there were only a couple of juice makers in Thailand, where now there are more than thirty. But she still believes Me Juice is quite different from most of the competition. The juices are made daily by a staff of “four or five” at an old rented house in Bang Na, that she terms “The Juice Hub.” Sourced from local farmers, the fruits and vegetables used are always fresh and “almost all organic.” They are processed by cold-pressing only, on special machines that had to be imported from the US. “The heat of most juicers destroys a lot of enzymes, and so does pasteurization,” she explains. As a result, however, she says it would be difficult to get full government certification in Thailand. It also means the juices only last 3-5 days. But that hasn’t stopped her from spreading the gospel, and distributing between 200-250 bottles a day delivered at home to a regular clientele motivated to “Drink Fresh, Look Fierce,” as the company slogan goes. bangkok101.com

Serious juice-seekers can place orders by phone or online at her website, mejuicepress.com. She even ships to Chiang Mai and Hat Yai once a month. Her concoctions are also available at Bai Miang health food stores and the New Move gym in the Maneeya Building. She also pushes gift boxes and gift coupons. But Fhy has no great plans to expand or open her own shops. “The shelf life is just too short,” she explains. And besides, she isn’t the type who seems to be in it for the business. “Do what you are into and the money will come later” is her creed. Like most of her clients, she uses the juices for regular “cleanses” and says she has gone from 11 basic mixes to a current 21 flavours of juice because she didn’t want to “get bored” drinking her own product. Among the topsellers and cleansers are what she terms “hard-core” blends that are mostly vegetables, like an energyboosting mix of spirulina, lettuce, green apple, celery, parsley, and ginger. Another super-green monster features kale and wheatgrass. “It isn’t meant to be easy,” she says of swallowing such flavours, but she also sells lighter, tastier mixes of beet and pineapple, apple and mint, and coconut with chia seeds. She swears that chugging down her elixirs instead of solid food for two days straight is sure to make you feel lighter, peppier, and less sick. But she thinks the main benefit is just getting people to focus on the rest of their lifestyle. “A cleanse is like cleaning your room—after you are done, you are more careful not to mess things up afterwards.” Amazingly, Bangkok’s self-anointed queen of juice is no self-righteous purist herself. “I actually got inspired at first because I love craft beers. Any kind of craft stuff— that’s always better than the mass-brewed beers.” She even has a taste for fine meat. “I enjoy Joe Sloane’s products, too. The point is to have real food, not junk food. Your body deserves that.” And Bangkok deserves more healing entrepreneurs like Fhy. JA N UA RY 2016 | 95

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listings CHINESE MEI JIANG The Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2861 2888 | peninsula.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Widely regarded as one of Bangkok’s finest Cantonese restaurants in town, Mei Jiang has built a loyal following for its dim sum, fresh classics, and behind-thescenes “Chef’s Table” concept.

SHANG PALACE 3F Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road | 0 2236 7777 | shangri-la.com 11am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm The interior is elegant, but, more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts.

THE MAYFLOWER Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd | 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm Authenticity is the name of the game. The menu here is exceptionally satisfying and interesting enough to start a tug-of-war over the Lazy Susan.

FRENCH BRASSERIE 9 Asiatique The Riverfront (Warehouse9), Waterfront District | 0 2108 4288 brasserie9.com | daily 3pm-12am Adjacent to Asiatique’s busy riverside frontage, this restaurant serves up a wide selection of traditional French bistro-style favourites, plus a few items with a modern twist.

CHEZ PAPE 1/28-29 Soi Sukhumvit 11 | 0 2255 2492 chezpape.com | 5pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun also 11.30am-2.30pm The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed.

L’APPART 32F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd | 08 5924 1565 | sofitel.com 7pm-midnight One of the most gorgeous, interesting spaces in Bangkok. A meal here feels like you’ve been invited for a fabulous dinner party at a successful friend’s penthouse. 96 | JA N UA RY 2016

Traditional cuisine charts an adventurous new course.

J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN U Sathorn Bangkok, 105,105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli | 0 2119 4899 | jaime-bangkok.com The classic French cuisine lives up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes and dexterity of Chef Amerigo. You might even find yourself trying to recreate certain ones the next day.

LE BOEUF Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair, 60 Soi Langsuan | 093 971 8081 | leboeufgroup.com The concept at Le Boeuf is simple: highquality steak liberally doused with a unique pea green-coloured sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. It is, in a word, French to the core.

MAISON BLANCHE 38 Narathiwat Soi 2 | 0 2634 7939 maisonblanchebkk.com | 11.30am-2pm, 6.30pm-11pm A little slice of southern France in the heart of Bangkok. This is contemporary homestyle French cooking its best. Of course, that is not to say it is uncomplicated or lacking sophistication. Far from it.

SAVELBERG GF, Oriental Residence, Wireless Rd | 0 2252 800 | facebook.com/savelbergth | open MonSat, noon-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm French in flavour and elegance, but imbued with influences from the Netherlands, the food is befitting the chef’s pedigree and befitting of the restaurant’s refined ambience.

INTERNATIONAL 22 KITCHEN & BAR 946 Thanon Rama IV | 0 2200 9000 | dusit. com | Bar 4pm-Midnight, Dinner 6pm-10pm Impeccable meals from the Pacific Rim, bridging Peruvian, West Coast American, Japanese, and Taiwanese cuisine. Led by the exuberant, innovative Nikolas Ramirez, this restaurant is one not to miss.

CREPES & CO 59/4 Langsuan Soi 1, Ploenchit Rd, (also CentralWorld) | 0 2652 0208 | crepesnco.com 9am-11pm The flavours and ingredients take in the entire sweep of the Mediterranean, bangkok101.com

listings borrowing heavily from Morocco and Greece, in particular. Sweet and savoury crepes are just as good for brunch as they are for a pre-bedtime treat.

Italian influences and high-quality seafood, but the menu incorporates a touch of Spanish and French flair, as well.

THE DINING ROOM AT THE HOUSE ON SATHORN

GF Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee 0 2168 5152 | hydeandseek.com | 11am-1am A superior gastro-bar that delivers in both drinks and food. The cocktails, in particular, draw a varied after-work crowd to the stools that surround the chunky bar.

106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 thehouseonsathorn.com | daily lunch noon2.30pm, dinner 6pm-10.30pm Outstanding ingredients presented with flair in a personal narrative of a worldwide culinary search, all in a setting that doesn’t have to use false décor touches to exude elegance.

EAT ME Soi Pipat 2, Silom | 0 2238 0931 eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm-1am Run by the innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steak in town.

ELEMENTS 25F The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com | 6pm-10.30pm An imposing space offering “modern logical cuisine,” translated as the use of seasonal produce. The menu is divided into an a la carte menu and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option.

FAT’R GUTZ Sukhumvit 55 | 0 2185 2373 | facebook.com/ Fat.R.Gutz | 11am-2am Trendy as trendy can be, this second sister to the original Fat Gutz serves spot-on fish and chips with panache, but don’t expect to enjoy a romantic dinner: Seenspace gets packed by 8pm.

THE GARDENS OF DINSOR PALACE 1217/2 Sukhumvit Rd, between Soi 59 and 61 | 0 2714 2112 | thegardenspalace.com Breakfast/brunch from 8am, lunch from 11am2.30pm, dinner from 5pm daily Using imported and local ingredients, some of which are grown in the hydroponic vegetable garden out back, chefs produce modern dishes with a distinct French influence. Take time to visit the verdant grounds.

HARVEST 24 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2262 0762, 09 7235 8286 | facebook.com/HARVESTrestaurantBKK 5.30pm-12am Rustic to the core, this wood-decorated venue in Phrom Pong relies heavily on bangkok101.com

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HYDE & SEEK

KAI Sathorn Soi 12 | 0 2635 3800 | kai-bangkok. com | Mon-Fri 9.30am-11.30pm, 8.30am11.30pm This handsome eatery makes an impressive go of answering the question: What does “Kiwi cuisine” actually mean? It’s an appealing culinary destination in one of the city’s emerging food hubs.

MAD MOA 211/8 Lan Luang Intersection, Chakrapaddhipong Rd | 085 155 2601 facebook.com/MadMoa | Tue and Sun 6pm11pm A four-table shophouse serving hearty Polynesian and American food, like burgers, bacon-wrapped hot dogs, and slow-cooked ribs, as well as fantastic locally brewed beer.

MOODZ 308 Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 0 2170 8440 facebook.com/moodzthailand | 5pm-Midnight With a menu that riffs on modern European cuisines, leaning heavily on Italian for inspiration, this blue-and-gold beauty is a fine addition to Thong Lor’s urban dining scene.

PANORAMA Crowne Plaza Lumpini Park | Rama IV Rd 0 2632 9000 | crowneplazabkk.com | Noon2pm, 6pm-10.30pm Serves breakfast and lunch, but the dinner buffet really has tongues wagging. The buffet changes every few months, from Mexican to Japanese, from Brazilian “Samba San” to a fresh seafood bounty.

PARK SOCIETY Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com 6.30pm-10.30pm Excite both your taste buds and eyes with a cutting-edge, elegant dinner overlooking Lumpini Park and the amazing skyline of Bangkok. Perfect for a romantic evening or a friendly get-together. JA N UA RY 2016 | 97

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listings QUINCE Sukhumvit Soi 45 | 0 2662 4478 quincebangkok.com | daily 11.30am-late Reborn with a whimsical chef who does incredible brunches and simply puts out—without fuss or much saucing— some of the purest flavours plucked from all over the planet.

RED OVEN Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd 0 2624 0000 | sofitel-so-bangkok.com 6.30pm-10.30pm Styled as a World Food Market, this 7thfloor all-day dining venue, named after the restaurant’s red Molteni oven, offers dishes reminiscent of traditional street food with a contemporary twist in buffet spreads. On weekends, the restaurant puts on a scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet.

SALT

253/2 Sukhumvit 31, Klongton Nua, Watthana, Bangkok 10110 Tel: +66(0)2 003 9597, +668 1535 4578 Mob: +668 9894 6516 Opening hours Monday to Thursday 6pm - 11pm Friday to Sunday 12noon - 3pm, 6pm - 11pm

AzzurroRestaurantBangkok www.azzurrorestaurant.asia

Soi Ari (near Soi 4) | 0 2619 6886 saltbangkok.com | 6pm-midnight Salt is a hipster’s dream, a gastro bar with a post-modern finish. What makes it truly special is the cuisine, from fresh sashimi platters to generously-dressed, thin-crust pizzas cooked over a proper wood fire.

SEVEN SPOONS 22 Chakkrapatipong Rd | 0 2629 9214, 08 4539 1819 | sevenspoonsbkk.wordpress. com Mon 11am-3pm, Tue-Sat 11am-12am, Sun 6pm-12.00am Hard to go wrong with any meal you choose at this Lan Luang favourite, where freshness and attention to detail are the expectation. Vegetarian-friendly without denying meat-lovers.

SIROCCO 63F Tower Club at Lebua, Silom Rd | 0 2624 9550 | lebua.com/sirocco | 6pm-1am There’s no getting around the obvious— no matter how well-made the cocktails or impressive the modern European food may be, the view is undeniably the star of the show.

TABLES GRILL Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2254 1234 | bangkok.grand.hyatt.com Noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm The theme is based on the tableside preparation seen in many traditional French restaurants, and the menu, billed as pan-European, takes full advantage of the theatre. As entertaining as it is satisfying. 98 | JA N UA RY 2016

THE GIRL AND THE PIG 5F, Central Embassy | 0 2160 5924 | facebook. com/thegirlandthepig | daily 10am-10pm No place is more surprising, or more in keeping with the international theme, than the glamorous coffee shop called The Girl and The Pig. Here is a perfect spot for everything from ample brunches to romantic dates.

THE KITCHEN TABLE 2F, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd 0 2344 4000 | whotels.com/Bangkok | 9am10pm A modern bistro with food that is honest, wholesome, and full of flavour. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Good food and an ambiance that matches modern day lifestyles.

TRADER VIC’S Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2476 0022 bangkok-riverside.anantara.com A global name for over 75 years, Trader Vic’s serves cuisine inspired by the Pacific Rim, including unique tastes cooked in Bangkok’s only Chinese wood-fired oven and a range of signature Mai Tai cocktails.

ITALIAN AZZURRO 253/1 Sukhumvit 31 | 0 2003 9597 | facebook. com/AzzurroRestaurantBangkok A new Italian addition to the bustling food street with its extensive menu inspired by the flavours of the different regions of Italy.

DON GIOVANNI 1695 Phaholyothin Rd, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok | 0 2541 1234 centarahotelsresorts.com The menu is full of home-style recipes, the concept rarely straying from traditional Italian. Along with neo-classical décor, the culinary approach lends Don Giovanni a decorous air befitting its operatic name.

ENOTECA ITALIANA BANGKOK 39 Sukhumvit Soi 27 | 0 2258 4386 enotecabangkok.com | 6pm-midnight Traditional Italian to the bones, rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, cured meats, and salami on the countertop. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable a la carte and degustation menus to explore. bangkok101.com

listings GARIBALDI’S Somserset Lake Point Tower A, 41 Sukhumvit 16 | 0 2262 0835 | garibaldisbangkok.com open daily Featuring cuisines running the length of the Mediterranean, the most memorable dishes nevertheless return to the restaurant’s Italian roots, dishes filled with energy and flair.

LENZI Lenzi Tuscan Kitchen, Ruam Rudee Soi 2 0 2001 0116 | lenzibangkok.com | Lunch 11.45-2pm, Dinner 6pm-10.45pm Many ingredients sourced from the chef’s native Tuscany—including fresh white truffles, hams, and salami. It just doesn’t get much more Italian than this in Bangkok

JOJO The St Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2207 7777 | stregis.com/bangkok | noon3pm, 6pm-11pm One of the few outlets proudly flying the flag for Venetian fare, with quality ingredients imported from the region conjuring authentic flavours of the Veneto. Jojo has a magnificent wine cellar, too, stocked with dozens of labels.

LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA The 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit 49 | 0 2204 1731 labottega.name | 10.30am-11.30pm A relaxed, welcoming space with indooroutdoor seating and lovely art hanging on the walls. Chef Luca updates the menu regularly and orders produce from Italy every fortnight. It’s all rustic, filling, flavoursome Italian cooking, delivered with real passion.

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SCALINI Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, 11 Sukhumvit Soi 24 | 0 2620 6666 | hilton.com | Noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Italian with enough surprises to satisfy the curious diner. For example, the antipasti retain a Mediterranean base while adding lighter, Asian-influenced twists.

JAPANESE

ITALICS 63/3 Soi Ruamrudee | 0 2253 2410 italicsrestaurant.com | daily 8am-11pm Using ingredients sourced directly from Thai farmers and artisans, Italics provides an intriguing take on Italian classics. Interesting combinations abound, and there’s plenty of wine, as well as a stellar espresso.

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GENJI

SEED 104 Sukhumvit 39 | 09 9283 6363 facebook.com/seedbangkok | Tues-Sun 5.30pm-midnight The casual, rustic, and decidedly health-oriented new creation of the Water Library group, planted with care to yield an ample harvest. It’s a refreshing new attempt at a kind of restaurant that Bangkok needs and should become a natural.

SENSI Narathiwat Soi 17 (Yaek 5) | 0 2117 1618 facebook.com/sensibangkok | Mon-Sat 6pmmidnight Intense flavours spun from fresh produce, complemented by sophisticated reductions and emulsions. The interplay between rich and zesty, complexity and lightness, results in amazing creations.

GF Swissotel Nai Lert Park, 2 Wireless Rd 0 2655 4265 | genji-restaurant.com | 11.30am2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm A Bangkok institution for more than 30 years, where presentation is crucial to the overall effect. Top-quality and wellexecuted Japanese cuisine.

HAMA-ICHI Legacy Suites, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 29, Klongtoey-Nua | 0 2662 3376 | facebook.com/ hamaichibangkok | Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight, Sun 4pm-11pm Almost 300 dishes. Dive in to tempura, seared salmon, wasabi-paired sashimi, and a number of hotpots, dining side-byside with salarymen at the long bar or at a table sectioned off by bamboo screens.

TAIHEI 53F Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm There’s a real commitment to quality leading the charge at Taihei. The food is beautiful, and it tastes great, to boot. Honest-to-goodness Japanese served from atmospheric heights.

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listings YTSB 3F VIE Hotel Bangkok, Phayathai Rd | 0 2309 3939 | facebook.com/YTSB.BKK | 6pm-11pm The name is short for “Yellow Tail Sushi Bar,” which provides a pretty decent indication of what this place has to offer. It isn’t all about yellowtail, either − there’s real variety on the menu.

YUUTARO 5F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloenchit Rd 0 2160 5880-1 | yuutaro.com | daily 11am10.30pm Raw food stars. Sushi and sashim—toro, engawa, uni, and hotate, a staggering ninety percent of the seafood selected from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo.

MIDDLE EASTERN AL SARAY 4F, Bangkok Plaza Building, Bangkok General Hospital, Soi Soonvijai 7 | 0 2319 4388 alsarayrestaurant.com | daily 9am-10pm What Al Saray serve here are authentic, traditional Lebanese recipes passed down from generation to generation. The only place in Bangkok where you can find shanklishe—an aged, spice-coated cheese made in-house.

ARABESQUE 68/1 Sukhumvit Soi 2, Sukhumvit Rd 0 2656 9440 | facebook.com/ arabesquerestaurantbangkokthailand | 11am2am The menu is as pure Egyptian as the fixtures. As well as dishes that fans of Middle Eastern cuisine will notice, such as hummus, moussaka and tagine (clay pot stews), it includes some they probably won’t.

BEIRUT Sukhumvit Soi 2, Ploenchit Center | 0 2656 7377 | beirut-restaurant.com | 10am-10pm A Bangkok classic with a couple of branches serving classic Lebanese dishes at reasonable prices. The hummus and falafel are praiseworthy.

SHAHRAZAD 6/8 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1| 0 2251 3666 | 9am3am The grand old dame of Middle Eastern dining, where the baba ghanoush is just as excellent as the grilled lamb leg. The cuisine spans the Middle East, with a nod to Iranian. Authentic and highly recommended. 10 0 | JA N UA RY 2016

MEXICAN EL OSITO 888/23-24 Mahatun Plaza, Ploenchit Rd 0 2650 9581 | elositobkk.com | Mon-Sat 11am11.30pm New York meets Madrid. This is like a neighbourhood Dean & DeLuca during the day, with its own smoker, churro machine, and deli sandwiches, including the increasingly rare Reuben. But it morphs into a Spanish tapas bar-cum-restaurant at night.

MÉJICO 2F, Groove@CentralWorld | 0 2252 6660 mejico.asia | 11am-12am The menu tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried, proving that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.

SEÑOR PICO 1F Rembrandt Hotel 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 0 2261 7100 | facebook.com/Senorpicobkk 5pm-1am Nowhere else in town will you find truly ethnic dishes such as aguachile de camarón, common in Mexico but practically unknown outside of North America. More familiar fare like tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and enchiladas are found on the menu, too.

SEAFOOD SEAFOOD MARKET AND RESTAURANT 89, Sukhumvit Soi 24, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2261 2071-5, 0 2661 1252-9, 0 2259 6580-1 seafood.co.th | 11.30am-11.30pm Fresh, high-quality seafood in the heart of the city is this long-standing destination’s expertise. The interior is aquarium-like, making it a fun place for dinner with family and friends. There’s also a ton of local and imported seafood for sale at the counter.

THE OYSTER BAR 395 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24 | 0 2212 4809 | theoysterbarbangkok.com | Mon-Sat 6pm-11pm, Sun noon-10pm You know a restaurant takes seafood seriously when several pages of the menu are devoted entirely to oysters alone. Big appetites should try the seafood platter, which is a pile of oysters, scallops, shrimp, crab, caviar, and more. bangkok101.com

listings SPANISH EL CHIRINGUITO 221 Soi Nana, Charoen Krung Rd | 08 6340 4791 | facebook.com/elchiringuitobangkok Thu-Sat 6pm-12am On the surface, a tapas bar. Small dishes and high-quality alcohol, a space filled with antiques: it’s an implant from Madrid dropped neatly into the Bangkok beehive.

BARCELONA GAUDÍ Le Premier 1 Condo, Sukhumvit 23 | 0 2661 7410 | barcelona-thai.com | Tue-Sun 11am11pm The chef and founding partners are proud of their Catalonian heritage, and it shows in the incredible tapas on the menu, from prawns in aioli to crema catalana and the traditional Sunday paella.

THAI BASIL 1F Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit | 0 2649 8366 | basilbangkok.com Sun-Fri noon-2.30pm, daily 6pm-10.30pm A glittering array of Thai favourites − it’s not over-the-top in innovation, but there isn’t a false note, either. This is Thai comfort food taken to a whole new plane.

BENJARONG Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Rd 0 2200 9000 | dusit.com | 6pm-10pm, Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm The Dusit Thani’s signature Thai restaurant offers inventive dishes from the Kingdom’s annals, from north to south.

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BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL 233 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2673 9353 blueelephant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm10.30pm A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, the flagship sits in a gorgeous old mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish.

BO.LAN 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 | 0 2260 2962 | bolan. co.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-10.30pm Authentic, but daring, Thai food at one of the top restaurants in Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this place is so popular year after year.

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE AND MUSEUM 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd | 0 2612 3601 jimthompson.com | Noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm The city’s number-two tourist attraction is home to a restaurant that pairs a sumptuous setting with surprisingly unusual Thai food. Factor in the generous happy hours, and there’s no reason to be sniffy about the place.

PASTE Fl 3, Gaysorn Shopping Centre | 0 2656 1003 paste-gaysorn.com | daily noon-2pm, 6.30pm10pm As modern as it is ancient, as cuttingedge as it is historical, as multi-layered as it is comforting, here is a husband-wife team’s amazing take on Thai cuisine. And it consistently surprises.

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SIAM WISDOM 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 0 2260 7811 siamwisdomcuisine.com | Noon-2.30pm, 8pm-10.30pm Expertly refined flavours separated with elegance and delivered with brio. As the name suggests, Siam Wisdom delivers the best kind of culinary education.

THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER The Jam Factory, 41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd | 0 2861 0953 | facebook.com/ TheNeverEndingSummer | Tue-Sun 11am-11pm Located in Thonburi, occupying part of three old Chinese-Thai factories, the airy 70-seat eatery offers an extensive, changing menu inspired by the favourite childhood dishes of one of the owners.

VIETNAMESE SAIGON RECIPE 46/5 Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49 | 0 2662 6311 | saigon-recipe.com | 11am-3pm, 5am10pm The well-designed dishes here reward closer inspection, as flavours reveal themselves in prescribed order. The portions are perfect for sharing.

XUAN MAI 351/3 Thong Lo | 0 2185 2619 xuanmairestaurant.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30 There’s some overlap with Thai food in the ingredients and flavours, but the exquisite combinations at this much-loved shophouse are subtle and more complex than many Thai dishes tend to be. A Thong Lor stand-out.

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SORRENTO SEE P106

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NIGHTLIFE SUGAR HIGH

Don’t want to stop celebrating the New Year? Hold out a couple days, when DJs Dan and Fameway visit Bangkok from the US and Belgium, respectively, for two nights of non-stop action. On January 5, the two take the decks at Insanity (Sukhumvit Soi 12). The next night, they head to Sugar Club (Sukhumvit Soi 11). Keep the good vibes going long into 2016. Visit clubbingthailand.com for details.

WILD NIGHTS EVERY WEEK

January is jam-packed at Live RCA, reaching an apex with a visit from the inimitable Sven Väth on January 30. First up is Berlin-based Kaiser Souzai on January 8. Eleven days later, on January 19, Beatgraden—the club’s 300-square-metre outdoor beer garden— brings in Okain, supported by Dan Buri and Ikono (B250). Then, the aforementioned Sven Väth is welcomed to the city by nightlife ambassador DJ Nakadia (B800). Finally, to cap a crazy month, on January 31 the venue plays host to French DJ and producer FKJ. Check facebook.com/liverca for all the latest happenings.

ONRA ON AGAIN

French beatmaker Onra returns to Studio Lam (Sukhumvit 51) on January 16. With an eclectic taste rooted firmly in hip hop, the well-travelled Onra offers a different dimension to live music. Expect tracks off his latest release, “Fundamentals,” as well as some older hits woven into a wild set. For ticket information and news, check facebook.com/ studiolambangkok.

JAPANESE JAMS

Ryosuke Kiyasu brings his snare drum to JAM (Charoen Rat Soi 1) on January 19. The Japanese artist is drummer in a handful of groups, including Sete Star Sept, Kiyasu Orchestra, and the two-piece Fushitsusha, in which he joins guitarist and vocalist Keiji Haino. Kiyasu, who has performed in places as far away as Canada and the US, will be taking the stage solo, a night before Sete Star Sept plays a mini-gig at a yet-to-benamed location in Bangkok. Visit facebook.com/jamcafebkk for details.

SINGHA SOUNDS

One part food, one part shopping, and one part music, the two-day Singha Craft festival takes over Airport Link Makkasan on January 30-31. The lineup of bands is long and impressive—Jessemek, Mattnimare, Young Man and the Sea, Sundaydrive, The 38 Years Ago, My Life as Ali Thomas, Moving and Cut, Somkiat, The Richman Toy, Polycat, Proud, T-Bone, Apartment Khunpa, and Greasy Cafe. Tickets can be purchased at every branch of 7-Eleven; one-day tickets are B300, two-day tickets are B500. Things get moving at 3pm each day. Check facebook.com/singhacraft for information.

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review

BON BON - The Playground for the Young at Heart Never has a high-end opening been so shrouded in mystery—or raised so many eyebrows. An adult playground? “Innovative ping pong tables” and modern tacos? Snapshots of seriously cool interiors decked out in dark wood and steel cages contrasted by playful, pastel artwork on social media and vaguely paraphiliac text in advertising? What exactly is this place, and what is it trying to sell? The fog of mystery has finally cleared. This is Bon Bon. And, if you didn’t guess from the series of provocative clues, it’s the latest in the FICO empire of bars, lounges, and anti-clubs, joining the likes of Bangkok Betty, Iron Fairies, and Fat Gut’z. Bon Bon doesn’t stray far from the script, either. Taking over the corner plot at Seen Space once occupied by Mr. Jones’ Orphanage—a venue that always seemed like an outcast come nightfall—Bon Bon leaves ample room to play. Inside, the look and feel bears resemblance to the shadowy, cast-iron effects of those other FICO undertakings, but the ground floor is more spacious, more open to the chatter of the night, more duly decorated for upscale-casual social gatherings. Expect DJs rather than jazz on the stairs, and dancers in steel bird cages rather than swings. Yet in whimsical flourish, the staff uniforms look as though they were inspired by Willy Wonka—vibrant silk worn under white overalls − so 10 4 | JA N UA RY 2016

there’s still some trademark weirdness underscoring the experience. For drinks, proceed either to the bar in the centre of the floor or pop into the “secret” ice room, where cocktails, “drunk” with the aid of a spoon and served in “glassware” carved from ice, are more granita than gin fizz. In keeping with the trends, many feature ya dong. And the food? A sort of modern Mexican tapas (salmon ceviche, kimchi pulled pork tacos, skirt steaks, fully loaded nachos). A glass-topped ping pong table, near the entrance to the ice lair, offers spirited, one-on-one forms of entertainment. There’s another table like it outside, on the patio, where scoops of ice cream are also available—ice cream that can be paired with champagne or homemade sodas. So now the “adult playground” angle has come into pretty clear focus. Enjoy ice cream with booze, boozy competition with friends new and old, and satisfy your more self-indulgent desires, but in a distinctly adult and prurient manner (with booze). If life begins at 30, as they say, then Bon Bon is merely reminding us of our roots. At least, it seems to suggest, we haven’t forgotten how to play.

BON BON Seen Space, Thong Lo 13 0 2185 2378 | facebook.com/bonbonbarasia

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imbibe

The team at Villa Di Sorrento

Sathorn Soi 10â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest dining and nightlife destination 106 | JA N UA RY 2016

The Don, in perfect finished form bangkok101.com

imbibe

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Digging “THE DON”

at Villa Di Sorrento Pongpak “Ton” Sudthipongse Chips in with Chivas Regal Extra

Pongpak “Ton” Sudthipongse’s relatively new career as a beverage director—he prefers mixologist—has skyrocketed since he first started experimenting with cocktails at Why97 in Asiatique three years ago. Since then, the former engineer has earned numerous prestigious awards for mixology, and he looks primed to add even more hardware to his mantel. Last year, Pongpak took over as main partner and beverage director for Sorrento, a venerable family-owned Italian fine dining establishment founded 26 years ago. Extensively renovated and re-opened as Villa Di Sorrento, the Sathorn Soi 10 restaurant now emphasizes a more casual dining approach and has added an extensive cocktail menu, with signature and vintage cocktails pushed to the forefront. “By definition, a true cocktail always involves a bottle of aged whisky,” explains Pongpak, when discussing his award-winning approach. “Every time you select the bottle, you’re choosing a piece of history, so I always look at the history of the liquor involved, especially when making a vintage recipe. I need to know how liquor has changed since that period in order to adapt the old formula accordingly. Whisky has less alcohol now, for example. “I’m also interested in cuisine, so for me working behind the bar is like cooking. I look at how flavour combinations work. I also delve into the tried-and-true techniques used by our bartending ancestors. Rather than use premixed syrups, I make Shurbs the way they did in the 17th century. No short cuts.” What makes Sorrento so special is the amount of finesse employed in integrating antique methods and fresh ingredients to appeal to modern palates. Some of the bar bangkok101.com

menu’s nine signature cocktails and 11 vintage cocktails are mixed at tableside. One of Pongpak’s most elegant original recipes, The Don, takes the classic Old Fashioned to the next level of complexity and flavour. The cocktail is built around Chivas Regal Extra, the latest addition to the Chivas Regal family, released in December last year. “We fine-tune each of our cocktails to match the exact spirit,” says Pongpak. “Chivas Regal Extra is aged in casks from the Oloroso sherry bodegas in Spain, so it’s a bit sweeter than Chivas Regal 12 or 18. Understanding the character of this new whisky was very important to me while composing the formula.” For The Don, the bar staff smoke a glass with singed rosemary, and then add a bit of brown sugar for texture. This is followed by one and a half ounces of Chivas Regal Extra and a bit of imported Italian cherry syrup. Next a few drops of Peychaud’s Bitters along with black walnut bitters are added to balance the sweetness of the cherry and the Chivas. Further smokiness comes from a dash of single malt whisky followed by teaspoon of port wine floated on top. The glowing, amber-hued drink is chilled with hand-cut ice and garnished with a desiccated orange slice and a fresh rosemary sprig. The finished product has some authority, but no unpleasant bite. Lingering touches of citrus and smoke make sure of that. Pongpak says he also enjoys the new Chivas Regal Extra simply mixed with San Pellegrino. “San Pellegrino’s light mineral content makes the flavour of the whisky very different from a highball made with regular soda water,” he adds. Honest and to the point, like the mixologist himself. JA N UA RY 2016 | 107

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listings

BARS 22 STEPS BAR Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Rd | 0 2207 4999 | hotelindigo.com/bangkok A great place to unwind, enjoying a cocktail or fine cigar while watching the world go by. Enjoy buy-one, get-one deals or free-flow drinks at B599 during happy hours from 5pm—9pm every day. Ladies’ night on Wednesday offers women two hours of free-flow sparkling wine from 9pm-11pm.

24 OWLS BY SOMETIMES 39/9 Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2391 4509 | 24owls.com | open 24 hours A bijou 24-hour bistro and bar where cocktails are a must. A delight by day and deep into the night, 24 Owls offers a unique round-the-clock dining option.

BAR 23 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 09 6145 9662 | facebook. com/bkkbar23 | 9pm-until very late A dingy dive favourite with bases in Asoke as well as Soi Nana, the artists’ community of Chinatown, where the soundtrack always changes and the crowd never fails to entertain.

BARLEY BISTRO 4F Food Channel, Silom Rd | 08 7033 3919 barleybistro.com | 5pm-late Check out the open-air rooftop, littered with fans, bean bags, and funky barley stalk sculptures. It’s a solid choice for post-work/pre-club cocktails.

BREW Seen Space, Thong Lor 13 | 0 2185 2366 brewbkk.com | Mon-Sun 4pm-2am See and be seen at this cool Thong Lo vanguard with well-stocked fridges and a healthy list of foreign beer and cider on tap. A beer-lover’s dream.

CHEAP CHARLIE’S Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2253 4648 cheapcharliesresort.com | Mon-Sat 5pm-12am A no-brainer meet-up spot drawing crowds of expats, NGO workers, and tourists in-the-know who fill up on cheap beers and gin and tonics before heading off to party.

CRAFT Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 0 2661 3320, 08 1919 5349 craftbangkok.com | 2pm-12am Serving craft beer on draft in all its glory, this outdoor patio-bar plays host to food 108 | JA N UA RY 2016

trucks each weekend, spins good tunes, and, most importantly, operates over 40 taps.

DARK BAR Ekkamai 10, Sukhumvit 63 | 0 2381 9896, 09 0528 4646 | facebook.com/darkbarbangkok Wed, Fri-Sat 9pm-2am A tiny and, well, dark bar serving beer and booze at cheap prices. It’s popular with hipsters and counter-culturists.

FACE BAR 29 Sukhumvit Soi 38 | 0 2713 6048 | facebars. com | 11.30am-1am This visually stunning complex is reminiscent of Jim Thompson’s former mansion, a dimly-lit joint that summons deluxe drinkers with cosy settees, ambient soundscape, and giant cocktails all night long.

HOUSE OF BEERS Penny’s Balcony, Corner of Thong Lor Soi 16 0 2392 3513 | houseofbeers.com | 11am-12am This Belgian-leaning bar offers all sorts of imported quaffs, from wheat beers like Leffe Blonde and Hoegaarden to esoteric specials like Kwak. The refreshments are augmented by Belgian fries and tapasstyle bar snacks.

JAM! 41 Soi Charoen Rat 1 | 089 889 8059 facebook. com/jamcafebkk | Tue-Sun 6pm-12am A cool, dive-y small bar in a formerly bar-less neighbourhood whose claims to fame are frequent cult movie nights and underground DJ sets.

MIKKELLER 26 Ekkamai Soi 10 Yaek 2 | 0 2381 9891 mikkellerbangkok.com | 5pm-12am An enclave for beer geeks, distinguished by its many dozens of taps and lush garden. A sure bet for anyone in search of a good—and hard-to-find—craft beer.

MOOSE Ekamai Soi 21 | 0 2108 9550 | facebook.com/ moosebangkok | Mon-Sat 6pm-2am A retro-inspired hipster bar decorated with flickering candles and an alarming number of mounted animal heads, giving it a living room-esque ambience. A preferred venue for all manner of underground DJ sets and live shows.

OSKAR BISTRO 24 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2255 3377 | oskarbistro.com | 4pm-2am

Lively Oskar has the electro music and low-ceiling cellar dimensions to qualify as clubby, and, with a dominant central bar, it’s perhaps more brasserie than bistro. Most people come for pre-club drinks.

SHADES OF RETRO Soi Tararom 2, Thong Lor | 0 2714 9450 facebook.com/shadesofretrobar | 3pm-1am It’s Hipsterville at this Thong Lo hot-spot stuffed with vintage furniture, vinyl records, and a grandmother’s attic of antiques.

SMALLS 186/3 Suan Phlu Soi 1 | 09 5585 1398 facebook.com/smallsbkk | Wed-Mon 8.30pm2am Decorated with vintage furniture and art to give it a bohemian vibe, this favourite neighbourhood dive offers a wide selection of beers, wines by the glass, and hard-to-find liquors.

SWAY Arena 10, Thong Lor Soi 10 | 0 2711 6052 swaybkk.com | daily 6pm-2am Chicken wings, poutine, and ribs star on the menu, and craft beer on draft draw flocks of loyal beer drinkers.

THE ALCHEMIST 1/19 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 3549 2055 thealchemistbkk.com | Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight This stylish, stripped down drinking hole near Cheap Charlie’s draws its own loyal crowd, thanks to an excellent playlist on top of craft beer, assorted martinis, and some of the best mojitos in town.

THE DRUNKEN LEPRECHAUN 4 Sukhumvit 15 | 0 2309 3255 thedrunkenleprechaun.com | 10am-1am Located on the ground floor of Four Points by Sheraton, this Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes and live sports screenings, and generous happy hours from 4pm until 8pm each day offer discounts on all kinds of drinks— the perfect partners for the pub’s complimentary “dips and dash.”

THE FRIESE-GREENE CLUB Sukhumvit 22 | 08 7000 0795, 08 0733 8438 fgc.in.th | Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm A member’s only place where guests are always welcome, screening films in a tiny cinema on the second floor and serving reasonably priced drinks on the first. bangkok101.com

listings TUBA 34 Room 11-12A, Ekkamai Soi 21 | 0 2711 5500 | design-athome.com | 11am-2am A Bangkok classic, room upon room of haphazardly arranged kitsch. Some come to snag a goofy tchotchke, but it works best as a bar with few cooler places to kick back with a sweet cocktail in hand.

VIVA AVIV River City-Unit 118, 23 Trok Rongnamkhaeng, Charoen Krung Soi 30 | 0 2639 6305 | vivaaviv. com | 11am-midnight, later on weekends Reminiscent of a hip bar along Singapore’s Clarke Quay, with bar tables and stools jutting across a riverside promenade. Think tropical maritime meets dashes of outright whimsy.

An art gallery, rooftop lounge, and restaurant wrapped up in a neat little package on the top of a boutique hotel offering a selection of world cuisine and drinks.

HEAVEN 20F Zen@CentralWorld, 4/5 Ratchadamri Rd 0 2100 9000 | heaven-on-zen.com | Mon-Sun 5.30pm-1am When golden bar lights up like a metal sun, Zen feels like one of the most glamorous places in the capital, serving up balanced cocktails and a beautiful backdrop.

WTF 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51 | 0 2626 6246 wtfbangkok.com | Tue-Sun 6pm-1am The coolest and most enduring shophouse bar in the city, decked out with old Thai movie posters and found items like wooden screen doors and chairs. Marked by great cocktails, live gigs, art exhibitions, and a mix of artsy patrons.

BARS WITH A VIEW ABOVE ELEVEN 33F Fraser Suites Sukhumvit Hotel, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 0 2207 9300 | aboveeleven. com | 6pm-2am A west-facing, 33rd-floor rooftop bar with beautiful sunsets, an outdoor wooden deck bar with glass walls for maximum view, an impressive cocktail list, and an electro soundtrack.

CLOUD 47 United Center, Silom Rd | 09 1889 9600 cloud47bangkok.com | daily 11am-1am A wallet-friendly rooftop bar in the bustling CBD that turns into a purple and blue neon fantasy at night.

LEAPFROG Galleria 10, Sukhumvit Soi 10 | 0 2615 0999 leapfrogbkk.com | 4.30pm-1am bangkok101.com

The al fresco turret offers panoramas in every direction. Just before sunset is the time to come—when daylight fades, a live jazz band kicks in and the city lights up like a circuit-board.

SKY BAR/DISTIL 63F State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 0 2624 9555 | thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, offering panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with new visitors as well as those intent on rediscovering it.

THE SPEAKEASY Hotel Muse, 55/555 Lang Suan Rd | 0 2630 4000 | hotelmusebangkok.com | 6pm-1am One of the snazzier al fresco rooftop bars, evoking the glamour of Prohibition Era America. Spirits include luxury cognacs and malts. Wines are available at solid prices, and cocktails include home-made vodka infusions.

WHISGARS 981 Silom Rd | 0 2661 3220 | whisgars.com 2pm-2am Whiskey and cigars are the focal points of this rapidly expanding branch. Each outlet is a little different, but all cater to the finer things in life.

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SING SING THEATER Sukhumvit 45 | 09 7285 6888 | facebook. com/singsingtheater | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am Tucked between Quince and Casa Pagoda on the sedate Sukhumvit 45, the collaboration of Ashley Sutton and Sanya Souvanna Phouma mashes together the disparate influences of the old Shanghai underworld and the dark and alien future.

MOON BAR 61F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 0 2679 1200 | banyantree.com 5pm-1am An icon among rooftop bars, offering 360-degree views of the urban sprawl in smart surroundings. The perfect spot for honeymooners.

OCTAVE 45F Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 | 0 2797 0000 | facebook. com/OctaveMarriott | 6pm-1am Rows of plush seating along the edge of the open-air balcony offer a perfect spot to plot Bangkok’s geography from above while knocking back punchy, refreshing cocktails. DJs spin house through the night, neatly setting the vein.

RED SKY 56th F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 | centarahotelsresorts.com 6pm-1am

WOOBAR GF, W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Road 0 2344 4131 | wbangkok.com | daily 9am-12am Chic and low-lit without being cold or inaccessible, and spacious enough to find a seat without feeling vacant. Swing by for Ladies’ Night, an after-work release, or, better yet, a weekend party.

CLUBS FUNKY VILLA 225/9-10 Thong Lo Soi 10 | 0 2711 6970 facebook.com/funkyvillabkk | 8pm-2am Bangkok’s gilded youth chill on sofas and knock pool balls in the front room, but most hit the fridge-cool dance hall to shake off the week’s woes to live bands and hip-hop DJs.

LEVELS 6F 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 08 2308 3246 facebook.com/levelsclub | 9pm-3am One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai party animals, and wide-eyed holiday-makers that can’t get enough of the buzzy atmosphere.

MIXX DISCOTHEQUE President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd 0 2656 0382 | mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok 10pm-late Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour clubs, a two-room affair decked out JA N UA RY 2016 | 109

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listings

with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets that lend a desert tent feel.

ONYX RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd | 08 1645 1166 onyxbangkok.com | 8pm-2am An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. Laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. The kicker: a giant video screen looming over the DJ booth.

ROUTE 66 29/33-48 Royal City Avenue | 0 2203 0936, 08 1440 9666 | route66club.com | 8pm-2am RCA’s longest surviving super-club, with three zones to explore, each with its own bar, look, and music policy. Crammed with dressed-to-kill young Thais.

SUGAR CLUB 37 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (next to the Australian Pub) | 08 2308 3246 | sugarclub-bangkok.com 9pm-2am A blend of the global clubbing DNA and an after-hours concept, featuring a Vaudevillian cast of dancers, entertainers, and big-name DJs.

THE CLUB 123 Khaosan Rd, Taladyod | 0 2629 1010 theclubkhaosan.com | 6pm-2am This techno castle lends a fairy-tale vibe, with lasers and UV lights harking back to mid-90s trance raves. The music is loud, a full range of four-to-the-floor beats and cranium-rattling techno.

TITANIUM CLUB & ICE BAR Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 0 2258 3758 | titaniumclub.com | 6pm-1.30am Congenial hostesses clad in ao dai; a gifted, all-girl rock n’ roll band jamming nightly; over 90 varieties of vodka. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

PUBS FLANN O’BRIEN’S 2194 Charoenkrung 72-74 Rd, Asiatique 0 2108 4005| flann-obriens.com | 3pm-12am A sweeping Irish-themed pub featuring daily drink specials, all-day breakfast menus, and live bands throughout the week.

GULLIVERS 2/2 Khao San Road | 0 2629 1988 gulliverbangkok.com | 11am-2am 110 | JA N UA RY 2016

A spacious club/bar at the corner of Khao San with plenty of affordable drinks, the place to go to end your night with no regrets (and wake up with plenty of them in the morning).

MULLIGAN’S IRISH BAR 265 Khao San Road | 0 2629 4477 mulligansthailand.com | Always open A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals.

THE BLACK SWAN Soi Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2229 4542 blackswanbangkok.com | 8am-late An amber-lit favourite that relocated to Sukhumvit 19 that offers myriad drink deals and spectacular Sunday roasts.

THE DUBLINER 595/18-19 Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2204 1841-2 | thedublinerbangkok.com | daily 8am-12.30am Irish-themed and Irish-owned, this watering hole is preferred among expats for its generous happy hours and nighttime live music.

THE HUNTSMAN 138 Sukhumvit Rd (Landmark Hotel) | 0 2254 0404 | landmarkbangkok.com/huntsman-pub 11.30am-2am English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a famous Sunday roast.

THE PICKLED LIVER Sukhumvit Soi 7/1, opposite Maxim’s Hotel 0 2651 1114 | thepickledliver.com | 3pm-late Pub grub, pool, quizzes, live music, and many more make this landmark pub, now in its second incarnation, a perennial favourite.

THE PINTSMAN 332 United Center Building, Silom Rd 0 2234 2874 | facebook.com/thepintsman 11am-late A basement bar in Silom serving pints of draft beer and big plates of food. The requisite pool tables and live entertainment get this place hopping on weekends.

THE ROBIN HOOD Soi Sukhumvit 33/1 | 0 2662 3390 robinhoodbangkok.com | 10am-12am All the pub essentials are covered: live sports, a chatty atmosphere, wood

features, pints of draft beer and cider, and copious drink deals. A great place to start your night (or afternoon).

LIVE MUSIC ADHERE THE 13TH 13 Samsen Rd (opposite Soi 2) | 08 9769 4613 6pm-midnight One of Bangkok’s funkiest, coolest hangouts, and nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar, and a band that churns out cool blues, Motown, and originals.

APOTEKA 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 09 0626 7655 apotekabkk.com | Mon-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-midnight Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this place has an old-school feel, an awesome line-up of live music, and a drink selection including beer and custom cocktails.

BROWN SUGAR 469 Phra Sumen Road | 08 9499 1378 brownsugarbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Bangkok’s oldest, cosiest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night.

CAFÉ TRIO GF, Portico Complex, 31 Soi Lang Suan 0 2252 6929 | 6pm- 1am One of the only bars worth seeking out on Lang Suan Road. Loved for its jazz and art, a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars.

FAT GUT’Z

264 Thong Lor Soi 12 | 0 27149 832 | fatgutz. com | 6pm-2am This saloon is packed nightly with beautiful people listening to live blues, indulging in carefully crafted cocktails, and drinking in the vague industrial-nautical theme.

MAGGIE CHOO’S Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd | 0 2635 6055 | facebook.com/maggiechoos | Tue-Sun 6pm-2am The main decoration is the leggy cabaret girls, but the real attraction is the live jazz, some of the best the city has to offer. The atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. bangkok101.com

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TUBE GALLERY

PASSAGE THROUGH THE LOST TOWN I

t isn’t every day that the words “Laos” and “couture” are mentioned in the same breath, but with the look and feel of Tube Gallery’s latest line, “Passage through the Lost Town,” maybe we should start hearing it more often. Luang Prabang, the model “slow life” city, steeped in centuries of lore and beauty that have now brought about a tidal wave of amateur photographers and rucksack-toting travellers, so impressed designers Saksit Pisalasupongs and Phisit Jongnarangsin during a visit that the duo sought to recreate its mystic charm in the form of high fashion. Inspired by the elegant architecture of the famous Chiang Khong temple—not to mention the sinewy figures in the murals decorating the interior walls and the coloured glass mosaics on the exterior—the Tube Gallery team takes to tight, almost Victorian-style cuts around the midsection to contrast the regal flowing bottoms of the floor-length dresses. Using their signature, meticulous embroidery technique to craft a kind of pattern they call “repoussé,” they produced uneven surfaces on the fabric, much like the embossed feel of the temple’s many mosaics. And in shorter dresses, this embroidery—as well as some sleek bands— accentuates the waist and gives balance. Beyond the brilliant needlework, the team also replicates the colour schemes of the artwork at the ancient monasteries—indigo, cherry red, turquoise, goldenrod, and black. The result is dramatic yet fun designs, ready-to-wear dresses with “a touch of semi-couture,” as the designers say. But this collection isn’t only for women (yes, guys, you’re finally represented!). The men’s attire features loosely tailored jackets and shirts, worn most often with trousers, but occasionally with peculiar, almost kilt-like bottoms. All feature mesmerising patterns—tight-fitting shapes not unlike colourful Jenga pieces. And with Tube Gallery being such an edgy brand, why wouldn’t they take some risks? Say, like taking a cut from Southeast Asian heritage, brushing it up with mostly dark winter hues, and doing it justice in deeply detailed dresses and suits? Tube Gallery Siam Centre, 3F Siam Paragon, 2F

tube-gallery.com | 0 2658 1108

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A SOUND MIND in a Sound Body - Top Alternative Treatments for Total Wellness -

f you’re looking to get fit, or maybe just get body and mind in sync again, you’re in the right place. Yes, that sounds odd, seeing as how Bangkok is well-versed in the language of pleasure, but this city is just as fluent in

the art of wellness. And, for that, Bangkok’s boutiques go well beyond the day spa. Here are just a few of the ways you can treat your body right, apart from the standard Thai massage.

BALANZE BY HYDROHEALTH

494 Erawan Bangkok 4F | 0 2250 7800 | hydrohealth.co.th daily 10am-8pm Empty yourself of excess at this world-class aesthetics and detox centre in the proverbial heart of Bangkok. The stated goal of HydroHealth is to bring balance to hectic modern lifestyles. And it does this particularly well with a signature four-hour detox programme, featuring three kinds of treatments. HydroHealth is also the first colon hydrotherapy centre in Bangkok, and it claims to be the largest colon hydrotherapy facility in Asia. The colon cleanse is, in fact, the signature treatement, performed in comfort and privacy by well-trained professionals.

CASCADE CLUB

6F,7F The Ascott Sathorn Bangkok, South Sathorn Rd 0 2676 6969 | cascadeclubandspa.com | Mon-Fri 6am-10pm, Sat-Sun 8am-9pm This five-star health club was established for the work hard, play hard crowd in the neighbourhood to blow off steam and lead healthier lifestyles. The gym features the latest equipment and some truly top-notch instructors while the club itself has a luxury spa and its own bistro and wine bar (okay, maybe the wine is better for the mind than the body). Regular classes include yoga, pilates, Zumba, body combat, body pump, and aerobics. Best start off with an assessment from one of the personal trainers, who can design a bespoke fitness regimen to whip you into the shape you want.

GLITTERATI NAIL LOUNGE

2F, 66/4 Mille Malle, Sukhumvit 20 | 08 3423 3334, 0 2663 6033 | glitteratinaillounge.com | daily 10am-8.30pm Fingers calloused from the keyboard? Glitterati Nail Lounge has you covered. This elegant, full-service nail salon offers manicures, pedicures, and a variety of hand and foot spa treatments. Only the best products from industry-leading brands are used by a well-trained team of nail technicians and nail artists. New items are regularly added to a collection of mainly natural, vegan, and safe to apply products (in fact, they’re so safe that even children and pregnant women can use them without worry). Prices are affordable, too, so you can feel good about coming back—and often.

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RAJADAMNERN SINGHA MUAY THAI ACADEMY 3F Seenspace 13, Thonglor 13 | 0 2185 2384 rsm-academy.com | daily 10am-9pm Get your kicks and work off some stress at the RSM Academy. All ages and abilities are welcome to explore Muay Thai here. Renowned fighters and trainers with expertise in both martial arts and fitness training make up the staff. But it’s not just for fighters. Alongside certified training programmes for competitive Thai boxers, the academy also offers plans to suit those seeking an engaging and social health and fitness programme. The approach here is extremely personal, too, eschewing the detached style of many flashy health clubs and combat training centres.

TRIA RE-LIFE VILLA

THETA STATE FLOAT CENTER

998/9 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Huay Kwang | 0 2660 2620 triawellness.com All-in-one TRIA offers healing and wellness from top to bottom. Specialist teams and world-class facilities provide patients with comprehensive care according to their needs. Doctors, nutritionists, chiropractors— every specialist is experienced in Eastern and Western medicine, so you can find the most effective therapy for you. Start with consultations and then move on to detox programmes or facial and skin treatments, or simply get in a good sweat at the spa and fitness centres. For traditionalists, check out the Chinese medicine on offer, including herbal therapy and acupuncture.

88/1 24th Avenue Mall, Sukhumvit 24 | 0 2261 7943 thetastatefloat.com | Tues-Sun 11am-8pm “Samadhi tanks” enjoyed a brief heyday in the ‘70s following the publication of Dr John Lilly’s hallucinatory sensory-deprivation experiments in The Center of the Cyclone. Pro athletes discovered more recently that flotation tank sessions miraculously speed up recovery. The womblike experience encourages theta brain waves, associated with deep relaxation and meditation, and the body experiences total relief from pressure points while absorbing a medical-grade salt mixture that conditions skin and relieves muscle tension. Floating for an hour or two in the soundproof, lightproof, temperature-controlled chambers is the perfect antidote to frenetic Bangkok.

YUNOMORI JAPANESE ONSEN & SPA

A-Square, Sukhumvit 26 | 0 2259 5778 | yunomorionsen.com daily 10.30am-12am Bare all at Bangkok’s first true Japanese Onsen. Yunomori offers a wide range of baths with mineral water sourced from natural springs at Wat Wangkanai in Kanchanaburi. This is quite a retreat from the hectic pulse of city life. The Onsen, spa, café, and beauty clinic nurture tired minds and sore bodies back to health, whether for an hour or a day. The options are many, from traditional mineral water baths to modern therapies, such as the soda spa with carbon dioxide-rich water, an open-air bath in a Japanese garden, a soak in a teak tub, and invigorating cold baths. bangkok101.com

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unique boutique

SOAP KITCHEN - Soul Food for the Skin -

hen a passion handmade soap and a love of food meet, you get Soap Kitchen. With bars made from 100 per cent natural ingredients, great branding (each soap has a fun name and personality), and bars that look as much like slices of cheesecake as personal care goods, it’s no surprise these social media darlings have climbed to the rarefied air of 46,000 Facebook fans. For Soap Kitchen, success has occurred as naturally as the ingredients in their products. Long enamoured of the hand-crafted bath items, Nattaya Phibunsiri couldn’t help herself from picking up new bars everywhere she went, explains Alisa Phibunsiri, Nattaya’s daughter and cofounder of the aptly named brand.“[So] my mother started making her own by hand in our kitchen as a hobby.” Then, like the time your sister learned how to knit and suddenly bestowed you with dozens of scarves and caps, it became such a hobby that soap soon filled the house. Nattaya gave bars to friends while the enterprising Alisa took them to the Bangkok Farmer’s Market. They were a hit with both crowds. “Word-of-mouth is a big part of why we have become so successful,” Alisa admits. The Phibunsiri women view the soap-making process like cooking. They use high-quality food-grade ingredients and personally designed recipes to craft their sweetsmelling goods. “There are so many ingredients you use to

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cook with that make great soaps, as well—our Downtown Brownies, for example, are made from cocoa butter and topped with cocoa powder,” says Alisa. Plus, olive oil makes skin softer, shea butter nourishes it, and cocoa powder does double-duty as a body scrub. Among the most popular products is the creamsiclecoloured Mango Sticky Rice, made with olive oil, coconut oil, and shea butter—good luck not taking a bite. There’s also Mad About Me and Stardust, two scents that evoke memories of fresh flower gardens. Love in Provence, on the other hand, whisks you away to France better than any Woody Allen film with its romantic splash of lavender. Apart from the regular recipes, Soap Kitchen also whips up special bars from time to time—for example, their very popular Beer Lao soap, made from genuine Beer Lao Dark. “Many customers ask if they can actually taste them,” says Alisa. “I know they smell great, but they’re still soap.” Soap Kitchen is suitable for all skin types and ages. The bars are available on the Soap Kitchen website and Facebook page, or head to Baimiang Healthy Shop at Sukhumvit 47. Prices start at B200.

SOAP KITCHEN 315 M. 11 Rattanaphisarn Rd | 08 1855 4620 soapkitchenbkk.com, facebook.com/SoapKitchenBkk

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OVERGROUND ND

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LEADING ART GALLERIES BANGKOKARTMAP

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SPA CENVAREE - Body, Energy, and Soul in Perfect Harmony BY PAWIKA JANSAMAKAO

he three pillars of well-being are at the core of the philosophy of Spa Cenvaree at Centara Grand at Central Ladprao. Believing that all illnesses are caused by body, energy, and soul being out of sync, the spa blends Eastern healing techniques with Western rejuvenating practices to achieve balance. But the ultimate goal goes beyond finding balanceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the spa seeks to promote overarching holistic well-being. Most spa experiences here begin with a consultation. The spa team helps guests pick from a vast range of massages and treatments. The regular menu and packages cater to all ages, and the selection of seasonal spa packages offer change-ups for special occasions. Wave goodbye to dull skin with the latest Spa Cenvaree special, the Passion Fruity Body Treats (B2500++), a deal that lasts only until the end of this month. The two-hour spa treatment starts with a 30-minute Fruit Salad Smoothie Body Exfoliating Treatment, featuring the fruity scrub beads of your choosing. The most popular scrub is a combination of pineapple, strawberry, and papaya. The sweet smoothie scent spreads all over the room as the scrub is applied, and the effect gets you relaxed, but a little thirsty at the same time. 118 | JA N UA RY 2016

After washing up, the specialist applies a unique blended essential. What follows is a soothing Orange Blossom Aromatherapy Massage. At this stage, experienced hands easily diagnose and pick the right kind of massage for you, whether a gentle Swedish massage or a deep tissue massage to relieve chronic muscle pain. Once your body and its many elements are balanced, the masseuse performs a 20-minute Lymphatic Drainage and Head Massage. Though it sounds peculiar, this last little bit of pampering leaves you in a state of utter relaxation. Apart from body massages and scrubs, Spa Cenvaree also offers other pampering programmes and facilities: a nail spa, a hair salon, and exclusive treatments for men, such as Jurlique Facial Formula for Men (60min/B2200), Essential Back Care (80min/B2000), and Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sport Manicure (45min/B650).

SPA CENVAREE AT CENTARA GRAND, CENTRAL PLAZA LADPRAO BANGKOK LLF, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok, Phaholyothin Rd | 0 2541 1234 ext 4292 centarahotelsresorts.com/cglb | daily 10am-11pm

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SPA PROMOS

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NEW YEAR’S CLASSIC PAMPERING AT VAREENA SPA THE WESTIN GRANDE SUKHUMVIT, BANGKOK

259 Sukhumvit 19 | 0 2207 8032 westingrandesukhumvit.com | daily 10am-11pm Indulge in the New Year with the two of Arena Spa’s most popular massages. The Aromatherapy Body Massage lets you pick the aromatic oil that matches your elements and mind (no worries if you have no idea what to choose— that’s why a consultant is on hand). The massage is B1800++ for 60 minutes and B2500++ for 90 minutes. Alternatively, a Thai Functional Massage will heal nagging shoulder and back pain with a renowned Thai massage (B2400++ for two hours). Okura Spa, The Okura Prestige Bangkok

SNOW WHITE SPA PACKAGE AT THE OKURA SPA THE OKURA PRESTIGE BANGKOK

Park Ventures Ecoplex, Wireless Road 0 2687 9000 | okurabangkok.com | daily 10am-10pm The Okura Spa offers an exciting new body treatment, using white-only products and ingredients to celebrate the purity of winter snowfalls in Japan. The package begins with a rice body scrub, followed by a snow yoghurt body mask. The final stage of this sensational new treatment is a hot candle wax massage that helps blood circulation and eases muscular aches and pains. The heat of the wax recreates the sensation of sitting by an open fire after walking in the snow. The package is available until the end of March and priced at B4200++ per person for a twohour treatment.

Spa Cenvaree, Centara Grand at CentralWorld

HEAVENLY VANILLA SPA PACKAGE CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRALWORLD

999/99 Rama 1 Rd | 0 2100 1234 ext. 6511, 6516 spacenvaree.com |daily 9am-11pm Experience the rich, warm scents of vanilla and chocolate with deep relaxation at Spa Cenvaree at Centara Grand at CentralWorld throughout January. A chocolate mousse body scrub leaves skin moisturized and radiant from top to toe. Following the body scrub is a core massage, using a warm vanilla oil to relax muscles and mind at the same time. This 90-minute treatment is priced at B2650++ per person and comes with a gift set of the best-selling vanilla body wash and body butter.

RADIANCE JOURNEYS 2016

ANANTARA BANGKOK RIVERSIDE RESORT & SPA So Spa, Sofitel So Bangkok

NEW YEAR, NEW YOU AT SO SPA SOFITEL SO BANGKOK

North Sathorn Rd | 0 2624 0000 sofitel-so-bangkok.com | 10am-10pm It’s “New Year, New You” at So Spa. A special package includes a Beldi Black Soap Scrub (30 min), a Rassoul Cream Wrap (30 min), and a Moroccan Massage (60 min) for only B4500 net per person (down from the normal price of B6350). The special price is available only in January. bangkok101.com

257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd | 0 2476 0022 Ext. 1563 spa.anantara.com | daily 10am-10pm Transform body and mind throughout the New Year with a special offer from Anantara Spa. Choose from two wellness journeys. The New You Package (B6500++ per person) includes 75 minutes of any Elemis Facial treatment, and it comes with a complimentary Voyage of Discovery or Bright Start set (valued at B4000) to enhance your skincare routine at home. The Thai Retreat Package (B4200++ per person) is designed to relax tired muscles with a 90-minute Prakob Hot Compress Therapy and revive complexions with a 30-minute Srinin Rice Scrub; it comes with a gift from Anantara valued B1200. JA N UA RY 2016 | 119

SIGNING OFF

did you know?

Y OU K D I N D

? OW

The humble, ever-present banana provides more than just bundles of sweet-snacking fruit. There are over one hundred species of banana in the Land of Smiles. Most bear fruit that’s picked and eaten—but that’s not all. In Thailand, every part of the plant is used, and for various purposes, from religious rites to good old-fashioned gustatory delight. Good for body as well as the environment!

In the Next Issue of Bangkok 101 • A Sneak Peek at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards • Bangkok’s Young Thai Culinary Superstars • Little Cuba in Big Bangkok at Havana Social

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